It will take 2 to 4 people between 2 to 4 hours to set up a yurt.

The first time might take quite a bit longer, but will be worth it! It is
best to read all the instructions first to better understand the entire set up procedure. If many people are helping, make sure
ONE takes the lead!
REMEMBER, these yurts are not made and engineered in a Western way; they need love and a little creativity. Do not expect
MONGOLYURT & GROOVYYURTS MONGOLYURT & GROOVYYURTS MONGOLYURT & GROOVYYURTS MONGOLYURT & GROOVYYURTS
SET-UP INSTRUCTIONS
& MAINTENANCE
REMEMBER, these yurts are not made and engineered in a Western way; they need love and a little creativity. Do not expect
them to be rigidly correct. But once they are fully and correctly assembled they will not move.
We are showing here our own way of putting up a yurt you might use your own procedures, or have another way to make
knots, or find new ideas. Yurts are versatile and you will have to adapt your yurt to your own environment and specific needs.
We have a lot of experience and will be glad to share our ideas! We are also always happy to hear yours!
You can let us know when you plan to put your yurt up the first time and well make sure to have somebody on call that day.
Lexicon Mongolian words :
Huns: roof poles or roof rafters
Bagaans: central posts
Toono: dome or central crown
Berzine: outside cover
Urgh (pronounce ursh): top cover
Rayartch: decorative bottom skirt
Were always at yurt service !
1 888 GROOVYY or info@yurt.ca
Version 090423
Whats included in your set:
Door, with
double window
door frame Set of
walls (all
but one
have a
connectin
g rope)
2 bagaans
(central posts)
yurts bigger
than 6 walls
have 4
Set of huns
(roof rafters)
Set of felts:
2 half moons for the
roof
2 to 4 rectangles for
the side walls
1 urgh (ursh =
top cover) with
4 ropes
1 toono (compression
ring) with 5 ropes and
4 window frames for
the FRONT half they
usually come with a
basic plexiglass
covering and a stove
pipe hole
1 inside twill (can be
replaced by a
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replaced by a
mosquito net if you
chose the option)
1 rayartch
(bottom skirt
usually in 2
parts)
4 horse braided hair ropes
(1 tension rope and 3 outside ropes)
1 berzine
(outer
cover)
The platform is
NOT included
Options could
include a set of
curtains or a
layer of TYVEK
if ordered
1. Place door 2. connect walls in a circle a add tension rope 3a. Attach bagaans (central
posts) to toono (top dome)
3b. and raise toono 4. Put huns (roof rafters). Adjust tension with circular tension rope and make sure
the toono is placed symetricaly toward in the circle.
SET-UP SUMMARY
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5. Place inide twill (or mosquito net) 6. Place felts 7. Place outside cover
8. Add ropes around yurt
9. Add rayartch (botom skirt) and urgh (top flap) and youre done!
Lets get started!!
1. Place the door (in Mongolia it traditionaly faces south)
2. Stretch the walls together in a circle closing on the door. The walls
are usually numbered. The numbers fit together sequentially, one (1)
.
Tip: if you havent
got a circular
platform, draw a
circle on the ground
to help place the
walls
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are usually numbered. The numbers fit together sequentially, one (1)
starting on the right side of the door as you look outwards and the
highest number ending on the left side of the door. The numbers go at
the top of the walls, the sharper end of the lattice being the top side.
The sides of the
walls which fit along
the door are cut at
an angle to fit the
side of the door.
Adjust the spread
so that the height of
the walls match the
doors height (or
slightly higher)
3. The walls fit together, weaving the slats one over
the other. To connect two walls, make sure they are at
the same height. All marks and numbering on the walls
face outside.
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The marks on both
ends of the walls shall
match together
4. Tie the walls together by zigzagging the rope between them,
tying it at the bottom.
Tip: before tying the walls together, make sure theyre about the
same height all around and standing in a fairly nice circle.
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Finish with a simple loop.
Tip: Always use simple loops
that are easy to release
5. Attach the long tension rope (the one with
a round section) to a strap* at the top of the
door, and make it go around the outside of the
yurt. Pull the rope snug and tie it off on the
strap on the other side of the door. This rope
will allow you to adjust tension when you put in
the roof slats.
* it can happen that the 2 straps are not included. You
will have to install them as shown here below.
Where the walls meet, pass the
rope to the inside of the wall and
then back out. This will maintain
the rope at this height.
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Tip: with the truck
drivers knot you
have twice the force,
but can release the
knot easily
6. Place the central crown
(toono) upside down on
the ground in the centre of
the yurt. Using a rope (*not
included), attach the
bagaans (centrals posts) to
the toono, where theres no
painted motives.
Prepare some huns (roof
slats) and place them
around the yurt.
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*if not included,
add 4 hooks on
each side of teh
toono
7. Raise the
toono to a
standing position,
(the two bagaans
parallel to the
door), the
covered side
covered with the
windows and
stove pipe hole
facing towards
the door.
Place 2 huns (roof poles) on
the walls each side of the
door, painted side down and
insert them in the
corresponding hole on the
toono. Be sure to leave the
correct number of holes in the
toono (central
crown) for the
door huns
(usually 6 or 8)
Attach the rope to the door and give enough tension
so that the the huns are pressed in place
2
1 1
3 3
Place the tie off ropes of the huns on the inside part of the V formed
by the top of the wall so you dont stress the walls liaison.
Then add a hun in each of the other cardinal directions and
secure them with the corresponding rope from the toono.
Then add more huns, starting on both sides of the door (for
ex. every 3 huns and then fill the gaps with more huns). The
safest place to place the huns is from the oustide of the yurt,
so you dont get any falling huns on the nose!
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The huns used above the door are a bit shorter
(the shortest are placed in the middle of the
door) and have no tie off rope at the end.
Tip: if the huns are too loose and keep falling, tighten the tension rope.
On the other end, if it is too difficult to put the huns or if the bagaans
(central posts) start to lift, release a bit the tension rope
They will sit wedged
into the top of the
door and are usually
numbered
Once you have placed a few huns around the yurt, check if the
centre axis of the toono is well aligned with the middle of the
door. If not, two persons can raise the bagaans a little and turn
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door. If not, two persons can raise the bagaans a little and turn
the toono in a more accurate position. If it matches the middle
of the door, but not the back it might be because one of the
walls is higher, or that the ground is uneven (if not on a
platform). Correct if you can, but dont worry too much the
structure will still be solid!
Tip: pull a little on the
bottom of the walls to
give a nice and even
shape all around the
yurt
Tip: to attach the toono ropes
on the walls, make a triangle
that will help tension the rope
Congratulations! The structure is up!! Congratulations! The structure is up!! Congratulations! The structure is up!! Congratulations! The structure is up!!
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8. Now dress the yurt
First, place the one piece light fabric undergarment (or mosquito net if you have purchased this option) on the
outside of the yurt. Place it with the stitching showing to the outer side. This is one piece of fabric which will cover
the roof and the walls. By pulling it from both sides of the door towards the back of the yurt, it will place itself
naturally.
Overlap the two ends at the back. Pull both ends so that the cotton is tight against the toono under the toonos
outer lip. Pull each of the end strings over a hun and thigh them back together (make a oop in one of the
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outer lip. Pull each of the end strings over a hun and thigh them back together (make a oop in one of the
string and pas the other one in this loop)
9. place the roof felts: Place each half-moon piece of felt, one
front and the back on the yurt. Fold them as shown above, place
each package on the roof and unfold them as shown below.
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Make sure that the top side fits
up snugly with the tonoo (central
crown). You can use a hun for
this. A person on a ladder in the
centre of the yurt can pull it up
(be careful pulling the felt as it
can stretch and tear.)
Fold the extra felt
above the door
10 Place the wall felts:
starting on both sides of the door unroll
the felts against the wall.
The felt needs to cover the sides of the
door about one or two inches.
You can then either fold the wall felt
underneath the roof felt and /or pass a
rope through the loops to hold it in place
(the loops are
not very
strong!)
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Tip: fold the inside
twill above the door
underneath the doors
huns
Tip: if you fear water
on the platform, or if
you are directly on the
ground, raise the wall
felts a little so they do
not suck water
11. TYVEK: if you chose this option, it is time to put the TYVEK
on the yurt. For optimal water resistance, tape it around the door
on the wood and against the toono, UNDER the lip (difficult, but
possible!!)
If youre doing it by yourself, make sure to use TYVEK and no
other brand it does work better with yurts. A 10 wide roll is
enough for one 19 or 22 yurt dont forget the special red tape.
We recommend you use the roof felt layers as a shape to cut
and assemble the roof section of the TYVEK.
Put the TYVEK on the roof, and then unroll the rest on the walls
and tape it to the top.
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Remark:
A Mongolian yurt has to breathe.
It is one of the reasons that it is so
comfortable (and healthy) both in
winter and summer. The TYVEK
wrap is a great alternative to more
expensive covers (also available
at Groovyyurts) in order to
achieve optimal water resistance,
while still keeping breathability.
12. Install the berzine (outer canvas). This layer is all one
piece, and it is heavy to move. It goes up the same
way you did for the inside twill. Make sure that the door
is placed and squared first, then pull the tarp around
and over the yurt. Again making sure that the top is
well placed around the tonoo, under the lip (as shown
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well placed around the tonoo, under the lip (as shown
on the picture above). Tie it off using the ropes at the
end of the tarp to the roof slats inside the yurt. You
have to pass the ropes between the toono and the felts
and inside twill, which is a little tight.
L
R
The orange arrows
left show how to pull
each side of the tarps
strings over a hun and
come back to attach
them togther
Once it is tight on the
toono, pull on the canvas
all around to lean it on
the yurt
13. Attach the 3 main ropes
around the yurt. We suggest using
the same tension knots as shown
in point 5.
The top rope espacially has to be
well tightened.
If your bagaans start to lift inside
the yurt it is because theres too
much tension. Release the ropes
a little.
14. Attach the rayartch (bottom skirt) to the lowest rope with simple and easy to release loops. The rayartch is
usually made of two parts that join at the back. You might want to add a nail or a staple at the door, or find your
own way to attach the rayartch to the door. In Mongolia it is used to protect from water or animal dejections.
Here it is more a decorative item and has no real function appart maybe of hiding a connection to the platform.
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15. Place the urgh (pronounce ursh), which is the top flap used to close the toono. In Mongolia, it always covers
at least the back half of the toono and is pulled to the front at night or if it is raining or very cold. It is made of
canvas and insulated with felt.
You might have to attach the 4 ropes (included) to each corners. Then fold the urgh into a triangle and use a roof
rafter to push it on top of the yurt. Place the triangle so that it covers the back half of the toono and attach the 2
ropes on the right and left of the yurt to the circling ropes. At the back, attach only the lower rope, leaving the
top one free to open and close the yurt.
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OPEN CLOSED
Tip: anchor the 3 urghs
ropes to the ground or the
platform, so that in case of
strong winds, the urgh
doesent act as a sail,
pulling the circling ropes
and bending the whole
yurt
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If you have choosen a set of inside curtains, install
them now. At th etop of the curtains back, you will
see two rows of loops. Pass a rope through the lower
ones and hang the curtains to the top of the walls.
Take another rope and pass it alternatively over the
huns (roof rafters) and back in the loops as shown
with the orange line below Usually curtains come in
a set of 3 pieces. The Mongolian motives go on both
sides of the door.
The rope attached to the center of the toono is
usually stored in a symbol of fertility above the
parents bed, but it is used in case of strong
winds to attach a big stone, thus anchoring the
yurt. It is actually very effective and we
recommend you anchor this rope to the ground
if you leave the yurt for a longuer period or if
you expect a storm
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RECOMMENDATIONS:
THE GROUND:
Install the yurt on a circular platform, the same size as the yurt. A swimming pool platform with a 1 foot rim running all around is
recommended for overlapping tarp. Be sure that the outside cover covers this rim to ensure water flows beyond the platform.
Should you prefer a square platform, do not forget to also add a similar rim around the yurt.
Contact us for the platform plans and assistance in planning the placement of your yurt.
WIND:
In the case of a high wind, tie the central rope of the toono to a ring sturdily placed in the floor, or around a very large rock, or the
base of your stove if it is heavy enough, as they do in Mongolia.
If you fear high winds, we also recommend to tight the ropes of the urgh (top flapcap) with a peg directly and solidly to the ground or
to the platform
If you have your yurt on a platform, which is more slippery than the ground, add a rim around the yurt to prevent moving in case of
strong lateral winds.
Yurts are aerodynamic and resist to very strong winds. They are traditionally not anchored to the ground (Mongolians do not want to
arm the ground), but if you expect a tornado, we recommend additional anchoring, for example with straps going over the yurt and
anchored to the ground.
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anchored to the ground.
SNOW
Get rid of snow accumulation on the roof
If you leave the yurt for longer periods, place 2 additional (provisory) central posts (bagaans) to support the toono
LOCATION:
Place your yurt in a well vented place. Avoid placing it directly under a tree, or directly in the middle of the woods, if you can.
If building on a hill side, be sure that the side of the yurt can shed any snow or rain so that it does not come up into the layers of the
yurt, or onto the floor boards. If in a snow zone be sure that there is enough space on the hill side, where the snow accumulates, for
the snow to melt with out getting into the yurt.
HUMIDITY / WATERPROOFNESS:
Be sure the canvas covers all the yurt. Eventually you will want to sew the end of the canvas at the back if you are not moving it
frequently.
Re-waterproof the tarp at the sewing points, if it leaks during heavy rains. Do it every year.
Ensure that there is no leakage in the toono where the tarp joins it.
Make sure that there are no cracks in the toono where water can freeze or even leak through the wood work via the numerous
square holes around the toono (a type of ghost infiltration that weve seen in the past) .
Be sure that felt does not touch the bare ground, especially in humid areas, if the platform is not perfectly watertight. It will soak up
water and then freeze to the ground.
Placing plastic under the canvas will leave these grey, and might even cause the felt to mould. Should you use it, use a TYVEK
(from far the best) wrapping used in construction.
The door can swell during the first year. You will have to grind it on the top and sides ad make sure to paint it, especially on top of it.
LONGEVITY:
The secret for longevity is frequent venting and regular heating to keep it from moulding. If you do not use your yurt for a season,
take it down and store it dry!
During the winter or prolonged humid weather make sure that there is plenty of ventilation especially if the toono windows are very
sealed, or if there is heavy snow. sealed, or if there is heavy snow.
Apply a couple layers of varnish on the door outside (and every year) to prevent from aging.
HEATING / COOLING:
Canvas, curtains or inside twill can be treated with a fire retardant products, which we can supply, as well as guaranteed fire
resistant covers.
The GroovyYurt stoves, made in Mongolia are original, but not very productive. We sell them as decorative objects, as they do not
comply with any North American standards. Take care of possible CO2 accumulation on the floor!
To burn less wood, you can always get a second layer of felt for the roof or the complete yurt
Raise the covers and felt from the bottom in the summer to create a natural cooling air flow with the top window
And last but not least, please be responsible! This is a hand made product that youre buying and using at your own risk. Theres no
warranty to these yurts, although well always be doing our best to help you out for any question. Dont eat your yurt, dont smoke
your yurt or anything else, dont make an open fire, etc.., etc
Enjoy your new yurt and ask us for any advice. We have a lot of experience and are happy to share it!
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