Ultimate Demo Promotions Compact Rules 2010

Promoted by – UDP
Sam Williams – 303-726-8337

General Rules

1. ALL RULES WILL BE FOLLOWED OR YOU WILL NOT RUN.

2. Any compact car with the following specs; 105” Maximum Wheel Base for Rear Wheel Drive, 108”
Maximum Wheel Base for Front Wheel Drive. Four Wheel drive cars must remove front drive shaft.
3. Drivers must be 18 years of age. Ages 16-17 must have a NOTARIZED permission slip and a valid
driver’s license.
4. The person that signs in as the driver – must be the driver for the event.
5. Driver must wear a seat belt, helmet, FIRE SUIT JACKET (no more exceptions to the fire jacket rule).
6. All Drivers and Crew Members must attend the drivers meeting.
7. No hot rodding in the pits, keep it at an idle. This will be the quickest way to be DISQUALIFIED.
8. Any open door or fire will cause disqualification, for that heat, of that particular car not the team.
9. You are given 1 minute to make an aggressive hit. After 1 minute that particular car will be disqualified,
not the team. You are only given 1 minute in total, not 1 minute to get started and 1 minute to hit.
10. No drivers are allowed alcohol - period. If you are wearing a drivers band and drinking any form of
Alcohol -YOU WILL BE DISQUALIFIED
11. Cars will be re-inspected before any prize money is paid out. The cars will be re-inspected by the head
judges, and Sam Williams only. Everyone else will stay back until cars are deemed to be legal.
12. There is a $250.00 protest fee, and you must be a driver in the main event to protest another team’s car.
Driver must have cash in hand directly after the feature in order to protest. If the car is found to be illegal the
ENTIRE TEAM WILL BE DISQUALIFIED.
13. Any complaints that a driver has about another car prior to the start of the first heat will need to be
addressed in the drivers meeting in specifics. If nothing is said, we don’t want to hear about it after the
show.
14. Any questions, give us a call: Sam Williams 303-726-8337. If these rules or a phone call to us does not
say you can do it THEN DON’T. We can’t stress enough to call first.
15. Judges decisions are FINAL!!!

Car Preparation

1. No Fresh Paint or Undercoating on the frames at all. No buffing or grinding frames except where welding
is specifically allowed in these rules.
2. All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
3. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
4. Tires no bigger than 15 inch, No split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled or doubled tires are ok – we
don’t want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims.
5. Use motor and tranny of choice, motor must be in stock location. You may chain or weld motor and
tranny to keep in place, but don’t strategically strengthen the frame. You may attached a strap on all four
corners of engine going down to the frame, this strap may be welded directly to the top or side of the frame
only, not to exceed 3/8” thick by 2” wide strap. The straps on the front of the motor cannot extend on the
frame any more than 2” past the front of the head and cannot extend backwards at all. The straps on the rear
of the motor cannot extend back on the frame any more than 2” past the back of the head and cannot extend
forward at all. These straps can be connected from front to back, but the connection piece must be at least 4”
above the frame and not to interfere with the A-Arm. Motor cradles are ok and can be welded to the cross
member. This Rule will be Enforced. You must run the transmission cross member in the stock location
you can weld 2” angle iron no thicker than 3/16”, no longer than 6” to the side of the frame to support the
cross member. If you pre-bend your frame do not use angle iron to re-support the bent area. The
transmission cross member is the only method my which the transmission may be tied in. Do not attach
transmission to dash bar or any other point in the car other than the cross member. If you choose to run an
engine mid-plate this can only be attached to the frame by using the straps on the back of the motor. If you
have questions on this please call!!!!!!
6. Use rear end of choice, but must be no more than 5 lugs. You can tilt rear end if you wish. Welded or
posi-track highly recommended. Back braces are welcome.
7. You must use a radiator and it must be in stock location.
8. All cars must have working brakes.
9. A-arms, ball joints, and tie-rods ends must remain stock. Tie rod tubes may be welded but no added
material. Only stock car ball joints and tie rod ends are allowed; no pickup or van tie rod ends.
10. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
11. Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well made fuel cell, and it must be
properly secured and covered. Only metal tanks may be used. Fuel cell cannot exceed 12”x12”x12” or 7
gallons. Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind
driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat use to be. No other source of gas inside the car at
all. Engine coolers are allowed, however they must be a cooler with an elect. fan, no water/ice barrels or
boxes can be used, these coolers cannot be placed to reinforce the car.
12. Transmission coolers are allowed, but must be safe and properly secured.
13. Batteries must be moved to passenger front floorboard. They must be properly secured and covered.
14. You must have a number in Bright colors on each front door and must have a 15”x15” sign on the roof
of your car with car number on it for judging and recognition of the car. Please paint all cars with the same
color of paint and the number all in the same color. We want all cars to match as closely as possible.

Car Building

1. NO welding will be allowed on any part of the body or frame. The only welding allowed is in this set of
rules. If your car is found with any weld, other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s
satisfaction, you and your team will not run!!
2. All doors must be chained, wired, bolted or welded shut. Driver’s door may be welded inside and
outside. All doors may be welded shut with strap no bigger than 3” by 1/8” thick. Tops of the doors may be
pinched together and welded but do not add any filler material.
3. **For driver’s protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X,
and you may also have a bar across your dash bar to bars behind the seat across the inside of the front doors
only. You can also weld a plate across the driver’s door not to exceed 6 inches past each seam. You may
have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be welded or bolted to
the roof – no kickers going back or front of the car. You may also weld a steering column to the cage. Back
of cage including roll bar can only be 10” behind the back of the driver seat. You may also run a kicker from
the door bar down to the floor or frame, do not extend any further forward than the front door seam, between
the dash bar and seat bar, on the driver’s side only.
**Please reinforce your driver’s door very good, in this type of competition all drivers doors will take some
type of hit during the event. We want you to be safe and protected behind your reinforcement.**
4. Bumpers are interchangeable, but must be a stock compact bumper. Use your choice of bumper brackets
either from bumper itself or car’s stock bumper - no enclosing or boxing frames with bumper brackets or
foreign material. Choose one and only one way, either the brackets from the bumper you choose to run or the
brackets that were supplied with the factory bumper. Any automotive compact bumper and bumper brackets
may be used on any car. No homemade bumpers or bumper brackets. You can weld bumper brackets or
towers to the frame. You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to
shock towers. You can collapse shocks, and you can bolt the shocks to the towers with ½” bolt or less, and it
must be done vertically. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Welding the bumper skins
(chrome to inner liner) is allowed. When welding bumpers, shocks, and brackets - do not add any metal.
Weld them solid. We do not want them coming off. No welding bumper to the body in any fashion. Bumper
height not to exceed 24” to the bottom of the bumper to the ground. Bumpers must be in stock location.
5. Bumpers may be welded to the end of the frame with no added metal, just welding wire. Front and rear
bumpers may have 2 chains or 4 loops of wire from radiator support/trunk lid or deck (to sheet metal only do
not go around core support bolts) to bumper (not frame). These cannot be placed in front of the radiator.
6. 2-1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame, MUST go through body mount hole, and you must
have a spacer between the body and frame. You may use wire in 2 spots with 4 loops from trunk lid and may
go around the frame with the wire. DON’T DO BOTH. Trunk lids may be chained/ wired/welded/ bolted
from sheet metal to sheet metal. Chryslers may weld all thread to side of frame but the all thread must be
vertical and go up through the deck lid, or they can go through the frame if they so choose. Short Trunk cars
– If you run ready bolt through the front body mount they must be slightly bent to make sure they go through
the trunk lid. Ready bolt can also be just tin to tin if you choose not to go through or attach to the frame.
7. You can fold hoods or trunk lid over, but 60% of the hood/trunk lid must be factory location. Do not slide
your hood or trunk forward or back this would mean that 0% would be in the factory location. This means no
beating speaker decks or trunk lids down more than 6” in the first 60% of the trunk.
8. Hood must have at least a 12 inch square hole cut out in case of fire. Any holes in hood may be bolted
back together with 3/8” or less bolts and 1.25” diameter washer no more than a total of 12 bolts allowed to
pinch the hood sheet metal back together. You may cut multiple holes but do not exceed the 12 bolts. You
are allowed 8 spots to hold the hood on; you must have a minimum of 4 tie down spots. You may have up to
1” all-thread, it may go from the hood to the frame, but must go through the front body mounts. All other tie
down spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal only, and the hold down bolts cannot exceed 8” in length!
You may have plates for hood tie down, not to exceed 5x5x1/4”square or 6” x1/4” round.
9. Body mount bolts can be replaced with 1” bolts, body mounts can be replaced with steel or washers but
must be 1” thickness and have the same diameter as stock spacers. Bolts may extend through body and have
up to a 5x5x1/4” square or 6”x1/4” round washer on top, washers must be separate. Bolts must be up inside
of frame as factory and may have larger washer inside of frame. If you choose to use a body mount hole for
you trunk ready bolt this does not have to be up inside frame, the plate can go on the bottom side of the
frame. Radiator support mounts can be removed, and you can suck the radiator support down solid.
Absolutely no body mounts may be moved or added. Do not add bolts, wire, chain, or cable in any fashion
from the body to the frame other than stated in these rules. Chrysler k-member cars can remove the rubber
spacers between the frame and k-member and bolt them up tight. Bolts may be replaced with up to ¾” in
diameter. All cars, if you choose to leave in the stock rubber pucks you must leave the metal cones inside
the rubber puck. You must leave at least a ¾ space if using the factory rubber spacer. Do not devise a way
that enables you to suck them down tight.
10. You can patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal only. Do not cut rust out; weld 2” beyond rust.
If your frame is rusted through, call for instructions on how to the fix the rust hole. DO NOT FIX IT
WITHOUT CALLING AND EXPECT US TO ALLOW YOU TO RUN IT.
11. Suspension must be stock height. Leaf springs must be stock and made of stock spring material, with a
1”stagger and no springs can be as long as the main leaf. You can only have a total of 7 leaf springs per side
no thicker than 3/8" thick. The main leaf must be the top spring in the spring pack and leaf springs must go
down from longest to shortest in minimum 1” stagger. You can re-clamp springs, 6 clamps per side with
only 4 being homemade. Homemade clamps can’t exceed 2x4x1/4”. You can change coil springs to a stiffer
spring, you can double the rear springs (they may be tied together in no more than two spots, do not weld
them together), or put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height, do not raise the suspension any other
ways except what is listed above. You can bolt, wire, or chain coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent
springs from falling out. You may weld leaf spring mounting brackets to prevent them from becoming
unbolted. You can loop chain or wire (1 loop of 3/8” chain or 4 loops of #9 wires) from rear end to frame in
2 spots on each side, must go around frame, do not bolt the chain to the frame. We are going to allow you to
weld the chain to the side of the frame, for your chains from the frame to the rear end, you can weld one link
only to the side of the frame if you choose to weld the chain instead of wrapping it around the frame.
12. Rear end control arms can be reinforced. If you reinforce your control arms you must build them
starting with a stock set. They maybe shortened or made longer.
13. Steering/suspension must be remain stock.
14. You can run shifter through the floor, and you can have a switch panel. If you are running an electric
fuel pump, it must be hooked up to your ignition switch, so when your car shuts off so does the fuel pump.
15. You may alter your steering column to prevent steering loss.
16. You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may be bolted back together with 5 -3/8” bolts or
less with 1.25” diameter washers. No rolling your fenders and welding them. If you wrap or fold your
fenders around the front of the core support do not exceed 4 – 3/8” bolts with 1.25” washers to bolt back to
the core support of fender.
17. For safety, all cars must have (2) windshield bars extending from the roof of the car to the firewall/dash,
straps cannot be any larger than 3/8"x3". If and only if you remove a part of the firewall/dash you are
allowed to connect these two bars. The removed part must be completely removed and must be as wide as
the vertical bars. The horizontal bars connecting the two vertical bars cannot be any larger than 3/8"x3"
straps. No more than 6" of strap material allowed on the roof and no more than 6" of strap material allowed
on the firewall. Do not go over 6" on roof or firewall or you will cut. If the firewall/dash is completely cut
out you can weld a strap from the dash sheet metal to the dash safety bar, on either side of the cut out
portion. Do not connect the windshield bars to the dash safety bar in any manner.
18. You are allowed 2 spots with 4 loops of wire (no cable or chain) in each window opening and may go to
the frame. All #9 wire going through the windows must stay in the passenger compartment. When going
through the floor and around the frame it has to go through the flat part of the floor. If you don’t understand
please call first.
19. You may run wire from frame rail underneath back of car, behind rear end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop
of 3/8 chain or cable. This must go around the frame, not bolting it to the frame. Do not pass this wire
through the trunk as it would be another body mount, must go under trunk floor.
20. Rewelding of factory frame seems (both top and bottom) from the "A" arms forward is allowed. No
welding behind the "A" arms is allowed. ***Do not paint the frames at all, we want to see the welds***
21. No distributor protectors.
21. No radiator guards.