Lonely Planet Publications

17

Destination Greece
In the early days of the summer of 2007 Greeks awoke to find their country alight: literally. Forest fires had broken out in the thickly carpeted hills
around Athens. Within a week or two they had also erupted with unparalleled fury across wide areas of the Peloponnese, Evia and even as far north
as Epiros. Satellite pictures showed a pall of billowing smoke drifting
skyward, ash covered many neighbourhoods of Athens, thousands lost
their homes and 66 hapless souls their lives. All the while, incessant talking
heads on Greek TV loudly proclaimed this to be Greeces worst disaster of
recent times; it was widely believed that the fires were deliberately lit, adding insult to injury. The 2007 firestorm not only had an ecological fallout,
but also severely dented the reputation of the conservative government
of the New Democracy party of Konstandinos Karamanlis. Such was the
anger directed at the government accused by many of idly standing by
while their country burned that in the September 2007 national elections Karamanlis was returned with a majority of only two in the 300-seat
parliament. It was a wake-up call and he knew it.
All this came at a time when the three-and-a-half-year-old Karamanlis
Government had considered itself to be sitting pretty. Greece had been
revelling in the European spotlight for some time, enjoying a residual
glow after the success of the 2004 Olympic Games, their unexpected
triumph as UEFA football champions in the same year, and Patras being
the European Capital of Culture in 2006. Yet for all their pride in and
celebration of recent achievements, the Greek population proved themselves to be, ultimately, pragmatic and illustrated that politics is never
far from the core of the Greek psyche. In the land where democracy was
born, true democracy still prevails and the will of the people can be as
strong as the winds that fanned those calamitous fires.
Greece is a country with a hallowed past and an at-times turbulent
present. Appreciation of the achievements of its classical past has tended
to overshadow its development as a free nation since the War of Independence from the Ottomans in 1821. Many foreign Hellenists imbued
with a romantic ideal of the Greece of Pericles and the Parthenon are
blithely ignorant that Greece today is a vibrant modern European country. It is equally a land where the languages of recent migrant communities from the Balkans, Africa and Asia not to mention the English and
German of EU migrants and retirees contribute to Greeces status as
one of Europes more recent multicultural societies.
As recently as 1983, when it acceded to the EU, Greece was essentially
a conservative, agrarian society famous for olive oil, coups, beaches
and islands. Its transformation since its induction alone, at the time,
among the southeastern European nations to the Brussels-led club of
prosperous nations has been no less than dramatic. It could once take up
to two years to obtain a landline for a home now Greeks boast more
mobile phones than fixed-line phones. Internet hotspots pop up like
mushrooms, while car ownership, once the privilege of the affluent few,
is now a consumer commodity enjoyed by the majority. While sleeping
on beaches was once de rigueur for travellers in the carefree 70s, tourism
is now most definitely pitched to the middle to upper-end markets and
sleeping rough is now oh-so out.
This has created mixed blessings for visitors: better facilities inevitably
come at higher prices; faster and safer sea travel has replaced more romantic

FAST FACTS
Population: 10,706,290
Percentage of women:
50.5%
Tourists: 14.4 million
annually
Cars: 4.1 million
GDP: US$256.3 billion
GDP growth: 4.2%
Per capita income:
US$26,920
Inflation: 3.3%
Unemployment: 9.6%
External debt: US$67.23
billion

18 D E S T I N AT I O N G R E E C E

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slow boat voyages to rocky isles; wholesome, home-cooked food may be

hard to find amid the surfeit of tacos, sushi or stir-fried lamb; homey, boxlike rooms tended to with a smile have been usurped by airy, air-conned
self-catering apartments with nary a Greek face in sight to say kalimera
(good morning).
Yet the fact that Greece continues to enjoy a steady influx of foreign
visitors is easy to explain. The Greek people still have the welcome mat
out. It is they who, after all, make Greece. Without the indomitable
bonhomie of the Greeks themselves, Greece would be a different place
altogether. Their zest for life, their curiosity and their unquestioning
hospitality to the visitors in their midst is what makes a visitors experience in the country inevitably unforgettable. The Greeks may curse their
luck at times, distrust their politicians and believe oiling the wheels
of bureaucracy a fact of life, but they maintain their joie de vivre, their
spontaneity, their optimism.
And, of course, their homeland offers myriad experiences, landscapes
and activities. Greece is the pulsing nightclubs of Mykonos and the
solemnity of Meteora; the grandeur of Delphi and the earthiness of Metsovo; the rugged Cretan hillsides and the lush wildflowers of spring. It is
the blinding light of the Aegean sun, the melancholy throb of rembetika
(blues songs), the tang of home-made tzatziki, the gossip in the kafeneia
(coffee shops). It is the Parthenon solitary and pristine lording it over
the hazy sprawl of Athens.
So, the job at hand is simple: decide which particular Greece you want
to experience. Then come and find it.

19

Getting Started
TRAVELLING RESPONSIBLY
Lets face it, Greece is a hugely popular destination. While this may be
sustainable in the quieter time of the year, from June to September Greece
receives an enormous influx of travellers and tourists. While this may be
a bonanza for the country, this annual influx puts great strains on the
infrastructure, the environment, the often fragile flora and fauna and even
the Greek people themselves.
Mega-destinations like Santorini, Mykonos, Rhodes and Corfu often
struggle to house and feed visitors and manage their detritus. The building of new developments often clashes with eco-minded organisations (see
p554). In a similar vein, champions of fauna often fight losing battles with
this relentless push for expansion (see p712).
As a potential visitor to Greece with an understanding of what issues
prevail upon the country, you may be able to alleviate some of the negative
side effects of mass tourism and travel.
July and August is the time of the fabled European Summer mass vacation. Outside this high season Greece is cheaper and accommodation is
easier to find also the weather at these times is much more bearable.
Travelling to and around Greece will usually involve polluting, mechanised transport. Seriously consider cycling it can be serious fun. Youll
need good gears and a stout constitution at times those mountains can be
challenging but the land is eminently suitable for cyclists.
Local transport is nonetheless well-developed and reasonably priced.
You dont really need your own motorised transport: you just need a bit
more time. There are lots of trekking options (for example in the Zagorohoria, see p335), or you may care to charter a yacht (see p718) with a few
friends and use wind power to propel you from island to island in much
the same way that Odysseus (Ulysses) did.
A growing number of hotels choose green options. Solar heating, the
recycling of waste products, the use of energy efficient light bulbs and low
impact architecture using local materials are all ways in which eco-savvy
hotel and pension owners do their bit to keep green. Seek out such sleeping options and give them your mark of approval. An entire community
in Crete has done away with electricity all together (see p485).
Organic is a buzzword in Greece too. Greece has one of the healthiest dietary regimes around; couple that with local organic products and
you are onto a culinary winner. Consider choosing your restaurants on
the basis of their locally grown food products and tell the owners
they will all get the message in good time. When youre thirsty, dont
cart one of those dastardly plastic water bottles with you. Who will ultimately dispose of it? Drink from a water fountain or from a tap.
(Note, although the water in Greece is generally fine, many islands
have questionable, limited or no water supply, so its is best to check
with the locals there.) For more details on environmental issues, see
p82. Shop sensibly too: look at labels and buy only locally made products.
Dont just make a beeline for the most obviously popular spots: everyone
else will be doing the same thing. Select your destination with some inventiveness. Youll probably have a better time.
Above all, exercise common sense. Set the precedent yourself and travel
responsibly, yet comfortably. Its not hard. Greece and its people will be
all the better off for it and so will you.

Greece
receives an
enormous
influx of
travellers
and tourists

20

G E T T I N G S TA R T E D W h e n t o G o

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WHEN TO GO
See Climate Charts (p720)
for more information.

HOW MUCH?
Local telephone call 0.30
per min
Minimum taxi fare 4
Litre of milk 1.60
International Herald
Tribune 2.50
Coffee 3.50-5
Soft drink (can) 1.50
Cinema ticket 8

Spring and autumn are the best times to visit Greece; specifically May, June,
September and October. Most of the countrys tourist infrastructure goes into
hibernation during winter, particularly on the islands. Some of the smaller
islands close completely and some islanders head off to alternative homes on
the mainland for a few months. Many hotels, seasonal cafs and restaurants
close their doors from the end of November until the beginning of April; bus
and ferry services are either drastically reduced or cancelled.
The cobwebs are dusted off in time for Orthodox Easter (usually around
April; see p724), when the first tourists start to arrive. Conditions are perfect
between Easter and mid-June, when the weather is pleasantly warm in most
places; beaches and ancient sites are relatively uncrowded; public transport
operates at close to full schedules; and theres a bigger variety of accommodation options to choose from.
Mid-June to the end of August is high season. Its party time on the islands
and everything is in full swing. Its also very hot in July and August the
mercury can soar to 40C (over 100F) in the shade just about anywhere in
the country; the beaches are crowded; the ancient sites are swarming with
tour groups; and in many places accommodation is booked solid.
The high season starts to wind down in September and conditions are
ideal once more until the end of October.
By November the endless blue skies of summer have disappeared. November to February are the wettest months and it can get surprisingly cold.
Snow is common on the mainland and in the mountains of Evia and Crete;
it occasionally snows in Athens. But there are also plenty of sunny days and
some visitors prefer the tranquillity that reigns at this time of year.

COSTS & MONEY

Greece is no longer a cheap country. Prices have rocketed since the adoption of the euro in 2002. Its hard to believe that inflation is less than 4%, as
claimed by the government, when prices have risen by a perceptibly higher
margin since that time. Some dramatic price rises, particularly for accommodation and restaurant meals, have been evident in recent years.
A rock-bottom daily budget for a solo traveller would be 45. This would
mean hitching, staying in youth hostels or camping, and only occasionally
eating in restaurants or taking ferries. Allow at least 90 per day if you want
your own room and plan to eat out, travel about and see the sights. If you
want comfortable rooms and restaurants all the way, you will need close to
130 per day. These budgets are for individuals travelling in high season
(July/August). Couples sharing a room can get by on less.
Your money will go much further if you travel during the quieter months
of May to June and September to October. Accommodation on the islands
particularly is a lot cheaper outside high season. You will also be able to negotiate better deals if you stay a few days. Families can achieve considerable
savings by looking for self-catering apartments, shopping for food and drink
at supermarkets and local produce markets and cooking for themselves.
Prices quoted throughout this book are for the high season of mid-July
to late August.

TRAVEL LITERATURE
Travel writers can be a great source of inspiration for those planning to
follow in their footsteps.
Attic in Greece (Austen Kark) This tale revolves around the authors experiences of buying a
house in the old town of Nafplio with his wife Nina. Its full of interesting insights gleaned through
the authors time in Greece working for the BBC.

TOP

G E T T I N G S TA R T E D T o p 1 0

21

10

Green Destinations
So you want a green, sustainable vacation; you want to commune with the land, the people, the
sea and the mountains. Here are our suggestions for some places you can visit that are off the
beaten track.
1 The Zagorohoria (northwestern Greece;
p332) mountains and trekking

6 The Pomakohoria (eastern Macedonia;

p314) no tourists, thermal baths

2 Remote islands such as Gavdos (Crete;

p499), Agios Efstratios (northeastern
Aegean islands; p634) or Psara (northeastern Aegean islands;p617) minimal
visitors, uncluttered space

7 Dadia Forest Reserve (Thrace; p320)

raptors, lots of them

3 Milia (Crete; p485) no electricity, organic

products
4 Tilos Park (Tilos, Dodecanese; p554)

8 Mt Athos (Halkidiki; p291) for spirituality;

no women allowed
9 Tria Potamia (central Greece; p264) kayaking and skiing
10 Tagetos Mountains (Peloponnese; p193)
walking and wandering

5 Hydra (Saronic Gulf Islands; p355) no cars

Top Reads
One of the best ways to learn about Greek culture is to immerse yourself in a good book or some
poetry. The following top 10 have earned critical acclaim in Greece and abroad. For more information on Greek literature, see p60.
1 The Odyssey by Homer

6 Dinner with Persephone by Patricia Storace

2 Alexis Zorbas by Nikos Kazantzakis

7 Life in the Tomb by Stratos Myrivilis

3 A Century of Greek Poetry by Bien, Constantine, Keely, van Dyck

8 A House in Corfu by Emma Tennant

4 Christ Recrucified by Nikos Kazantzakis

10 The Olive Grove by Katherine Kizilos

9 The Dark Labyrinth by Lawrence Durrell

5 Complete Poems of Cavafy by Constantine

Cavafy

Our Favourite Festivals & Events

Greeks love to celebrate, and theres almost always something, somewhere thats worth celebrating.
The following list is our top 10, but for a comprehensive list of all the main festivals and events
throughout the year, see p723.
1 Easter (Corfu; p678) April to May

6 Classical Music Festival (Nafplio; p183) May

to July

2 Summer theatre on Lykavittos Hill (Athens;

p130) June to August

7 Miaoulia Festival (Hydra; p358) June

3 Patra Carnival (Peloponnese; p163) January

to March

8 Athens Festival (Theatre of Herodes Atticus,

Athens; p130) June to September

4 Hellenic Festival (Theatre of Epidavros,

Peloponnese; p187) July to August

9 Folegandros Festival (Cyclades; p437) July

5 Skyros Carnival (Sporades; p672) February

to March

10 Panagia tou Harou (Lipsi Village; Dodecanese p584) August

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G E T T I N G S TA R T E D I n t e r n e t R e s o u r c e s

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DONT LEAVE HOME WITHOUT

Most travellers carry far too much gear, filling bags and backpacks with things that will never
see the light of day. Its best to bring only the essentials; you can buy anything else you might
need in Greece. The essentials:
A digital camera Greece is enviably over-photogenic, so send photos home via the internet
A few paperback novels to while away the hours spent riding ferries
A shady hat, sunglasses and sun block indispensable in Greeces hot climate
An inflatable neck pillow and eye shades for those long bus and train journeys
Lonely Planets Greek Phrasebook talk like the locals
Sturdy shoes ancient sites and historic towns and villages have rocky paths
Your international driving licence you cant drive without it
Your iPod carry your photos of home and favourite music and video clips
Your mobile phone buy a local SIM card and keep in touch with family and friends

Mermaid Singing/Peel me a Lotus (Charmian Clift) A duet of titles from Clifts Greece period
in the late 50s. They reflect her time as mother, spouse and blossoming author on the island of
Hydra where she lived among the (at times) smothering embrace of her fellow Greek mothers
and spouses.
Stars Over Paxos (John Gill) Travel writer Gill recounts his early experience on Paxi in the Ionian
islands. Ostensibly helping out with the olive harvest Gill becomes enmeshed in the day to day life
of the Paxiots who both befriend him and ultimately become alienated by him. A fascinating read
about the mindset of a small island community.
The Colossus of Marousi (Henry Miller) Few writers have matched the enthusiasm expressed
in this classic tale. Millers fervour never flags as he leaps from one adventure to the next. Some
travellers get upset about being ripped off by a taxi driver on arrival; to Miller, its another experience to be savoured.
The Greek Islands (Lawrence Durrell) More than just a travel guide, Durrells photojournalistic
essay of Greece in the 70s stands the test of time with his quiet introspective observations of Greek
history and culture that are still relevant today.
The Hill of Kronos (Peter Levi) A more serious and cerebral look at Greece from a long-time
philhellene who has known Greece for many years. Levis insight touches upon the history, politics
and darker days of Greece during occupation and dictatorship. His long-time love and patience
wins out with a picture of Greece that is both objective and subjective.
The Mani (Patrick Leigh Fermor) Another ardent philhellene, Patrick Leigh Fermor is well known for
his exploits in rallying the Cretan resistance in WWII. He now lives in Kardamyli in the Peloponnese.
The Summer of My Greek Taverna (Tom Stone) A humorous yet bittersweet tale of love,
dreams and anticipation. Stone does what we would all like to do run a restaurant on a Greek
island in this instance Patmos. Its not all plain sailing as Stone learns the hard lesson of dealing
with Greeks on their turf. Its a great read for the beach.

INTERNET RESOURCES
There is a huge number of websites providing information about Greece.
Culture Guide (www.cultureguide.gr) Lots of information about contemporary culture and the arts.
Greek Ferries (www.greekferries.gr) One-stop site with access to all the latest international and
domestic ferry information.

Greek National Tourist Organisation (www.gnto.gr) For concise tourist information.

Greek Search Engine (www.in.gr) The best starting point for web browsers.
Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) Has postcards from other travellers and the Thorn Tree
bulletin board, where you can ask questions before you go or dispense advice when you get back.

Ministry of Culture (www.culture.gr) Information about ancient sites, art galleries and museums.

23

Itineraries
CLASSIC ROUTES
A CYCLADES CIRCLE

Two Weeks / Athens to Athens

The Cyclades are by far the most popular and best known of the Greek islands. Start with a couple of days sightseeing in Athens (p95), before catching
a ferry from Rafina (p145). The first port of call is classy Andros (p368) with its
fine beaches and art galleries. Move along to Tinos (p372), a pilgrimage island
for many Orthodox Christians. Next in line is chic Mykonos (p381), famous
for its bars and beaches, and stepping-off point for the sacred island of Delos
(p390). Naxos (p401), the greenest and most fertile of the Cyclades is a great
place for walkers. The sheer cliffs of the volcanic caldera at Santorini (Thira;
p422, created by one of the largest eruptions ever recorded, are a sight not to
be missed. Start your return leg with a couple of days partying on youthful Ios
(p418) then recover on nearby Paros (p392) with its plethora of fine beaches
and more mellow nightlife. Swing west on a weekly ferry to demure Sifnos
(p442) with its olive grove, oleanders, almonds and junipers. Finally, do see
discrete Kythnos (p456) and mingle with the Athenian yacht crowd.

AEGEAN
SEA

ATTICA

Rafina
Piraeus

ATHENS

Andros

Tinos

Mykonos

Kythnos

Delos
CYCLADES
Paros
Naxos

MYRTON
SEA
Sifnos

Ios

Santorini
(Thira)

SEA OF CRETE

Bearing southeast
from Athens, this
circular route
covers several hundred kilometres,
taking you through
the perimeter of
the Cyclades and
back to Athens via
the jewels of this
island group.

24

ITINERARIES Classic Routes

lonelyplanet.com

THE GRAND TOUR

One Month / Athens to Ancient Delphi
A month is long enough to have a really good look at the country and to
experience the huge variety of attractions (both ancient and modern) that
it has to offer.
From bustling Athens (p95), head to the pretty Venetian city of Nafplio
(p180) in the Peloponnese. Nafplio, first capital of independent Greece, is
the perfect base for day trips to Ancient Mycenae (p177) and the celebrated
Theatre of Epidavros (p187). Head south from here to the attractive fishing
town of Gythio (p202) to catch a ferry across to Kissamos (p499) on Crete,
possibly stopping at the delightfully unspoiled island of Kythira (p224) on
the way. Its certainly worth calling in at either the charming Hania (p485)
or Rethymno (p476) on the journey along Cretes northern coast to the
capital Iraklio (p464) and the ruins of Knossos (p472). From Iraklio, jump
across to not-to-be-missed Santorini (Thira; p422) and start island-hopping
north. Consider unwinding for a few days at some of the smaller islands
like Anafi (p432) and Koufonisia (p412), both perfect for beach lovers, before
hitting the bars and clubs of hedonistic Mykonos (p381). Mykonos also has
weekly connections to cosmopolitan Thessaloniki (p272) in northern Greece.
Thessaloniki is a pleasant surprise to many travellers; a sophisticated city
with some fine Roman and Byzantine architecture and a lively nightlife.
Walkers will certainly want to call at Mt Olympus (p298) on the way to
the amazing rock monasteries of Meteora (p264), home of hermit monks.
The last stop is at unforgettable Ancient Delphi (p233), former home of the
mysterious Delphic oracle and steeped in ancient Greek history; just the
place to ask what to do next.
A month should be
ample time to complete this epic trip,
taking you through
the Peloponnese,
Crete, the Cyclades
and back to the
mainland through
northern and
central Greece.

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ITINERARIES Classic Routes

MAINLY MAINLAND
Two Weeks / Igoumenitsa to Athens
If entering Greece from Italy with your own transport, Igoumenitsa is a
good place to start. Once the Via Egnatia highway is completed access
across the north will be easier but not half as interesting as it is now.
Do not linger in Igoumenitsa (p343), the busy entry port in Greeces far
northwest; head across the mountains to Ioannina (p326) with its arresting
lakeside location, Ottoman monuments and social life. Head northwards
to the Zagorohoria (p332), unlike anything else you will see in Greece. Cross
the Pindos Mountains via the less-travelled northern route to Kastoria
(p307), a pretty lakeside town. Now make a beeline for the Prespa Lakes
(p305), where tranquillity reigns over landscapes of water and mountains.
Visit the artists town of Florina (p303) and cruise through western Macedonia with an overnight stop in Edessa (p302) famous for its tumbling
waterfalls. Spend some time in bustling Thessaloniki (p272) before heading
to the home of the ancient gods at Mt Olympus (p298), a mere 90-minute
drive south. Passing through the Vale of Tembi (p250) you enter the sprawling plains of Thessaly where monks built monasteries atop pinnacles of
rock at stunning Meteora (p264). Heading south the route takes you across
agricultural plains and mountains to the sea once more near Lamia (p245),
not far from where ancient hero Leonidas stood his ground against invading Persians at Thermopylae (p246). A fast highway now leads on to Athens,
a detour from which leads you to Thiva (Thebes; p230). From here choose
the less-travelled mountain route via Erythres to approach Athens (p95).

Thessaloniki

MACEDONIA

MACEDONIA

Prespa
Lakes

Mt Olympus
(2917m)

Edessa

Meteora
Florina
EPIROS

Thessaloniki

Mt
Olympus
(2917m)

AEGEAN
SEA

Zagorohoria

IONIAN
STEREA ELLADA
Ancient
Delphi

Ioannina
Igoumenitsa
ATTICA

Meteora

Vale of
Tembi

THESSALY

EPIROS

AEGEAN

ATHENS
PELOPONNESE

SEA

Ancient Mycenae
Theatre of
Epidavros
Nafplio

IONIAN
Mykonos

SEA

STEREA
ELLADA

Lamia
Thermopylae
Thiva
(Thebes)

CYCLADES
Koufonisia

MYRTON
Gythio

THRACE

Kastoria

THESSALY

SEA

Erythres

ATTICA
ATHENS

SEA
Santorini
(Thira)

Kythira

Anafi

PELOPONNESE

MEDITERRANEAN
SEA OF
CRETE

SEA

MYRTON

Hania
Kissamos

Rethymno

CRETE

Iraklio
Knossos

25

SEA

This circuitous
1000km-long route
takes in the more
spectacular scenery
of the north plus
the centres most
visited attraction,
Meteora, and
finally leads you
to Athens along
routes that are
not used by many
travellers.

26

I T I N E R A R I E S R o a d s Le s s T r a v e l l e d

lonelyplanet.com

ROADS LESS TRAVELLED

EASTERN ISLAND RUN

Three Weeks / Rhodes to Alexandroupoli

This route takes travellers island-hopping north from Rhodes through
the islands of the Dodecanese and the Northeastern Aegean, finishing
in Alexandroupoli.
Youll need to spend a few days on Rhodes (p516), exploring the atmospheric old city and visiting the spectacular Acropolis of Lindos (p528) before setting sail for Tilos (p550). This laid-back island is a great place for walkers and
those seeking uncrowded beaches and, unlike its neighbours, it is one of the
few islands in the Dodecanese to have escaped the ravages of development.
The next stop is Nisyros (p554), where the eruptions of Mt Polyvotis have
created a bizarre volcanic landscape that will take your breath away. Youll
need to call briefly at Kos (p557) to pick up a ferry onward to Patmos (p577),
an island that St John the Divine found sufficiently inspiring to pen his Book
of Revelations. Patmos has good connections to ultra-laid-back Ikaria (p589),
where you can laze at some of the Aegeans best beaches before continuing to
Chios (p607) and its fabulous mastic villages of the south. The next stop is Lesvos (Mytilini; p618), birthplace of the poet Sappho and producer of Greeces
finest olive oil and ouzo. Limnos (p630) is little more than a transit point on
the journey north to Samothraki (p634) and the Sanctuary of the Great Gods.
The final leg is to the Thracian port of Alexandroupoli (p316), where travellers
will find good transport connections to Thessaloniki and Athens.
Furthest from the
Greek mainland,
this leisurely
trip through the
Dodecanese to
the islands of the
Northeastern
Aegean covers
about 800km.

Alexandroupoli

MACEDONIA

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I T I N E R A R I E S R o a d s Le s s T r a v e l l e d

A CENTRAL CIRCUIT
Two Weeks / Thessaloniki to Igoumenitsa
This journey starts in the bustling, stylish capital of Thessaloniki in Macedonia, and heads south and west through some spectacular mountain scenery
to finish at the Adriatic port of Igoumenitsa.
Thessaloniki (p272) is an exciting lively city worth a few days of fun. Head
south to Litohoro (p299), the trailhead for the ascent of Mt Oympus (p298).
Allow two full days to ascend to the home of the gods. When done, head
south into Thessaly through the Vale of Tembi (p250) and make for the pinnacled rocks and hanging monasteries of Meteora (p264) climb them if
youre not vertiginously challenged. Cut due south across rolling farmland
to unassuming Lamia (p245) before heading west to alpine Karpenisi (p243)
at the heart of Greeces Little Switzerland. Lay up for a day or two in this
relaxing mountain resort then spiral on west and downwards to the languid
lagoon of Messolongi (p241). Now go where few travellers venture: follow the
often lonely road of the west coast through little visited resorts, such as Astakos
(p243) and Mytikas (p243) maybe add rarely visited Kalamos (p243) to your
island collection. Barrel north to the fishing port cum resort of Preveza (p339)
for the best sardines in Greece, then make a beeline for Parga (p341) on the
Epiros Riviera where you can swim in crystal blue coves. Your road will
lead you to Igoumenitsa (p343), an important port linking Greece with Italy
and the rest of Europe, and the start of the Via Egnatia highway that leads
all the way to distant stanbul.

THRACE

Thessaloniki

Thessaloniki

Samothraki

THRACIAN

MACEDONIA

SEA
Limnos

Litohoro

Mt Olympus
(2917m)

THESSALY

NORTHEASTERN
AEGEAN ISLANDS

Lesvos

Vale of
Tembi

Meteora

AEGEAN
SPORADES

SEA

Igoumenitsa

STEREA
ELLADA

AEGEAN

Parga

THESSALY
EPIROS

Chios

SEA
ATTICA

Preveza

ATHENS

Karpenisi

IONIAN

Ikaria

SEA

PELOPONNESE

STEREA
ELLADA

Astakos

CYCLADES

SEA

Lamia

Mytikas

Patmos
Kalamos

Messolongi

Kos

MYRTON
DODECANESE
Nisyros

ATTICA

Tilos

KARPATHIAN
SEA

Rhodes

Acropolis of Lindos

27

ATHENS
PELOPONNESE

This unusual route

is best suited if
you have your
own transport,
though it can be
done by bus. The
route combines
ancient sites,
mountains and sea
in a package that
few travellers have
thought of.

28

I T I N E R A R I E S R o a d s Le s s T r a v e l l e d

lonelyplanet.com

BEST OF THE DODECANESE

Four Weeks / Kasos to Patmos
The journey starts on the tiny and almost forgotten island of Kasos and winds
its way along the borders of the Turkish coast to the holy island of Patmos.
Take a slow boat from Piraeus to Kasos (p540) and really step back in
time for a day or two visiting monasteries and caves before moving on to
the elongated island of Karpathos (p534) with its vibrant, ancient culture and
music. After a few days step onto a ferry to tiny Halki (p531) for some fine
food and relaxed swimming. Take a caque to the largest island of the Dodecanese, Rhodes (p516) and take in the stunning medieval old town. If time
and budget allow, fly to Kastellorizo (p543), Greeces easternmost outpost and
home to a busy expat Greek-Australian community. Cruise across to rocky
Symi (p546) with its oh-so-pretty harbour, then chill out in laid-back Tilos
(p550) with its fine walking trails and down-to-earth lifestyle. Hop across
and northwards to visit a living volcano on craggy Nisyros (p554) then party
on at holiday island Kos (p557) where there is ample room for everyone. Fly
to startlingly bare yet unmistakably Cycladic Astypalea (p564; the flight path
goes via Leros) for a different taste of the Dodecanese, then fly back and on
to Leros (p574), an island that has not lost touch with its roots. Take a fast
catamaran to Lipsi (p582), almost out of sight of the mainstream, but much
loved by aficionados of small and cosy islands for its good food and beaches.
Finally make a pilgrimage to spiritual Patmos (p577) for some excellent food
and even more enticing beaches and getaway corners. When finished take a
fast and luxurious ferry back to Piraeus or head on northwards to the islands
of the Northeastern Aegean.

This islandhopping odyssey

takes in 13 of the
17 official Dodecanese islands. With
a little more time
you can easily fit in
the whole set.

lonelyplanet.com

I T I N E R A R I E S Ta i l o re d T r i p s

29

TAILORED TRIPS
ON THE GO
If you really fancy a vacation that combines a number of activities beyond
beaching it and dining then listen up. Start by some relaxing fly fishing on the
Aos River near Konitsa (p337) in Epiros. After a lunch of freshly caught trout,
try walking the Vikos Gorge (p335) and maybe follow that with a mountain hike
to Drakolimni (p336). Now take your gear south and check out some fast windsurfing at Vasiliki (p698) on the island of Lefkada.
When surfed out and youve caught your breath,
trek on southwards across the Gulf of Corinth to
the deep southwest of the Peloponnese at Karitena
(p190) where you can white-water raft or hot dog
Konitsa
a fast-flowing river and or simply hike. Now hop
Drakolimni
Vikos Gorge
on a slow ferry to Crete (p460) from the southern
Vasiliki
Peloponnese and really do some walking. Hike
the Trans-European E4 walking trail and take in
the spectacular Samaria Gorge (p493) while you are
Karitena
at it. Allow a good week for this very challenging slog. Now cruise to Rhodes (p516) and take
in some super scuba diving and when done with
exploring the depths see the water from above
Samaria
in a bout of kite surfing at Mikri Vigla (p407) on
Gorge
Naxos. Exhausted?

Naxos

Rhodes

NORTHERN ANTIQUITIES
Patmos
Lipsi

Leros

AEGEAN
SEA

Kos

Astypalea
Symi

Nisyros
Tilos
DODECANESE

Halki

Rhodes

Kastellorizo

KARPATHIAN
SEA

MEDITERRANEAN
SEA OF

Karpathos

CRETE

Kasos

SEA

Make Thessaloniki your base and seek out some of the lesser-known but
no less spectacular sites of the sprawling regions of Epiros, Macedonia and
Thrace. This itinerary is best accomplished with your own transport.
Revel for a day or two in the vibrant nightlife of Thessaloniki (p272) and
visit its numerous museums, then head west to the ancient Macedonian
capital of Pella (p298), where you can admire the ruins of Alexander the
Greats home base. See the stunning tomb of Alexanders father Phillip of
Macedon at nearby Vergina (p301), the norths singularly most impressive
archaeological site. Cross the looming Pindos
Mountains to Ioannina (p326) from where you
can easily visit the splendid amphitheatre and
Philippi
oracle of Dodoni (p332), the eerie underground
Kavala
Pella
site of ancient Hades at the Nekromanteio of
Thessaloniki
Vergina
Afyra (p343), close to the Epirote coast, and the
Roman-era settlement of Nikopolis (p340). Cross
Ioannina
back to Macedonia and take another breather
Dodoni
in Thessaloniki before heading east. The first Nekromanteio
Nikopolis
of Afyra
stop will be Philippi (p296), a Roman site where
Christianity was first accepted in Europe and
close to the busy port of Kavala (p295) with its
archaeological museum. Do not miss out on
the spectacular Sanctuary of the Great Gods (p637)
on the island of Samothraki where the Winged
Victory of Samothrace was found (now on display in the Louvre in Paris).

Sanctuary
of the
Great Gods

On the Road

DES HANNIGAN
Glass of wine, hard copy,
palmtop, foldaway keyboard
and sun hat (though not necessarily in that order); I get my
priorities right while catching
up with the gruelling work of
keying in the beta on rooftop
Mykonos (p381). It rarely gets
tougher than this...

MICHAEL CLARK

PAUL HELLANDER
When I got to Leros (p574) and saw this wild-looking gourouna (sow) I just had to have it. Its a 50cc fun
bike with fat tyres and lots of attitude. It was perfect to get around the lanes of Leros with all my gear. I
have never had so much fun collecting data.

CHRIS DELISO

While following my climbing

guide and new best friend, Kostas, 300m up the side of a sandstone tower at Meteora (p264),
the thought crossed my mind,
What, exactly, am I doing here?
The answer came quickly: Looking forward to one more meal on
earth, and an extra shot of ouzo.

The master sea-urchin hunter in Mesta (p614) was

handier with the hoe than I, but nonetheless I enjoyed a successful dive along the rocks in search
of breakfast in beautiful southwestern Chios.

KATE ARMSTRONG
There are many close shaves while on the road,
not least this one. I was interviewing the barber Mr Yiangos Hytiris (see A Cut Above the
Rest, p689) from Kouramades on Corfu. Clearly
bemused by my dishevelled appearance, he
whipped out a pink smock, pushed me onto the
chair and...

VICTORIA KYRIAKOPOULOS
Around Monastiraki (p97), in downtown Athens, there is a delightful convergence of past and present,
tourists and Athenians weaving their way around the ancient city and the grunge of the flea market. The
bustling cafs are a favourite place to stop and enjoy the pulse of the city.
See full author bios page 761

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