Maps Restaurants Cafs Pubs Clubs Sightseeing Shopping Directory Hotels

Bucharest
August - September 2015

Transfagarasan

The complete guide to

driving Romanias most
celebrated road

Enescu 2015

Romanias leading music

festival is back: bigger
and better than ever

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Contents
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S

ONE OF THE BEST

Getting Around & The Basics

Jewish Bucharest

6
14

A look at the past and the present

Driving the Transfagarasan 16

Our thorough guide to Romanias best known road

Restaurants

20

The tastiest places in the city to eat

The UK newspaper The Independent recently published
a list of the best 50 travel websites on the internet: inyourpocket.com was the third name on that list:
Entertaining and honest (at times devastatingly so),
the In Your Pocket city guides make their rivals seem
tame by comparison. More than 100 European cities
have been given the In Your Pocket treatment, and
all the key content from the print editions has been
collated on this well-organised and userfriendly website. It also includes a series of YouTube vignettes.

Nightlife 34
The citys best pubs and clubs

Sightseeing

43

Includes Childrens Bucharest on page 46

Old Town

52

Where Bucharest goes to party

Shopping

66

Souvenirs, local designers and local wine

Maps
Street register

facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

78-81
82

August - September 2015

Foreword
August and September in Bucharest are very different months
indeed. The former is the citys downtime, when locals head
for the hills or the sea to escape the often stifling urban heat.
Indeed, as a visitor you can often feel as though you have the
city to yourself in August: many of Bucharests attractions will
be devoid of locals during the day. It all changes when the
sun goes down, however. Thats when the locals who have
hung around come out to enjoy the cool evening air. Terraces
around the city get busy from 9pm or so and at weekends
often stay full until the very early hours. Bucharests reputation
as a party city survives the long hot summer.

September is usually a very different beast. The terraces
stay open, yet there can often be a chill in the evening air as
the night wears on. That said, last summer extended well into
October, with temperatures well into the late 20s. Heres hoping for the same again.
Meantime, stay as cool as possible - a white wine spritz
or two helps - and enjoy Bucharest: heat, dust, warts and all.
This city rewards adventure, and is very much what you make
it: get out there and make it yours.

E S S E N TI A L

Bucharest In YourCPocket
I TY G U I D E S
IYP Romania Srl
Str. Jiului 93, Ap. 14
Bucuresti, Sector 1
Romania
Tel. (+4) 0372 73 02 64
bucharest@inyourpocket.com

ISSN 1454-5276 IYP Romania Srl. Printed at MEGAPress SA,

Bucharest (tel. (+4) 021 461 08 08/09). Published six times per
year, up to 20,000 copies produced each issue. Bucharest In
Your Pocket is a member of the Romanian Audit Bureau of
Circulation (BRAT).
Editorial
Editor Craig Turp All Photography IYP Romania Srl or
Dreamstime unless otherwise stated. Cover by Iuliu Oana
(@TheUliu on Twitter and Instagram).

COVER STORY

Sales
To contact a member of our sales team send an email to the
address bucharest@inyourpocket.com, or call our office and
ask for the sales department.

The National Theatre at Universitate, recently reopened after a

five-year period of reconstruction
which returned the building to
its original, late-1960s design. This
amazing photo - taken from the
top of the InterContinental hotel - is
the work of Iuliu Oana (@TheUliu
on Twitter and Instagram).

Copyright notice
Text, photos and maps copyright IYP Romania Srl 1999-2015
unless otherwise stated. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts
for the purpose of its review, without written permission from
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4 Bucharest In Your Pocket

We have been busy these past couple of

months. Aside from launching a brand-new guide in Milan, Italy, we have also
been applying the finishing touches
to our new digital platform at inyourpocket.com. Radically redesigned and
restructured to place the visitor at the
heart of the cities we cover, our new
website puts you in total control of our
content on whatever desktop, laptop or
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To keep up with all thats new at In Your
Pocket, follow us on Facebook (facebook.
com/inyourpocket) or Twitter (twitter.
com/inyourpocket).
bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Arriving & Getting Around

OTOPENI AIRPORT

GARA DE NORD (TRAIN STATION)

Bucharests only major railway station is located close
to the city centre, one stop west from Piata Victoriei on
the M1 metro line. It is not being to unkind to suggest
that the station has seen better days, and that it is not
the friendliest place in the city. There is a perennial cast
of drunks, tramps, chancers and outright fraudsters to
deal with, a situation not helped by an almost complete
lack of official information points. As an introduction to
Bucharest its really rather grim, although somewhat in
keeping with other railway stations around the country.
Fortunately, Gara de Nord is relatively small and easy to
navigate: you will not need to spend any great amount
of time here. All of the platforms lead to the same main
concourse, where you will see signs for buses, taxis and
the metro. There are a number of press/refreshment kiosks, a supermarket and even a McDonalds and a KFC.
The public toilets are acceptable (and cost 1 leu to use).
Avoid all of the currency exchange kiosks - they offer
appalling rates of exchange and/or take huge commissions. Use one of the many ATMs instead.
To get to the city centre, take an honest taxi from the
official taxi station outside (ignore anyone who approaches you inside the station). If no taxi is waiting,
use one of the two touch screens to order one. You can
also hop on the metro: you are just one stop away from
Piata Victoriei, or take the bus: No. 123 goes to Piata
Unirii, No. 85 to Piata Universitatii and No. 780 goes to
the airport. Tickets (in the form of an Activ or Multiplu
card) can be bought from the little metal kiosk next to
the bus stop (which is itself next to the taxi rank). Note
that both the last buses and the last metro services
leave Gara de Nord at around 23:00.
When departing from Gara de Nord, note that queues
at the ticket office can be long: do not leave buying a
ticket until the last minute, as you may end up missing
your train. Indeed, you are advised to buy train tickets
well in advance, especially if you are planning on taking
a sleeper train.
6 Bucharest In Your Pocket

Otopeni Henri Coanda is Bucharests only international

airport. Located 17 kilometres north of the city, Otopeni
is small and reasonably efficient, but poorly served by
public transport. When arriving, avoid the currency exchange desk placed directly before passport control: the
rates are very poor. To get your hands on local cash, wait
until you have cleared customs: there are a number of
ATMs in the somewhat chaotic main arrivals hall. The pedestrian walkway which connects the arrivals and departures terminal contains car hire desks, a newsagent and a
chemist. Downstairs is the internal flight arrivals terminal,
and a small supermarket.
To get to the city centre, your best bet is to take a taxi.
To do so, look for the touch screens in the arrivals hall.
They are easy to use, and you can choose from the full
range of Bucharest taxi companies: all have their tariffs
clearly displayed. Once the taxi company of your choice
has informed you (via the screen) how long the taxi will
take to arrive and what ID number the taxi has (take the
ticket which will be printed: you need to hand it to the
driver) you simply go outside to wait for your taxi. Make
sure you get into the right taxi: check the company name
and ID number with the one on your ticket. Ignore the
sign saying Rapid Taxi. These are overpriced taxis which
are allowed - for some unfathomable reason - to wait
downstairs, directly outside the internal arrivals terminal. The journey into the city centre should cost from
40-50 lei. For those who want to head into town in a
bit more comfort than your average visitor, there are
good private car options: TransVision (airport-transferbucharest.com) and VMS City Shuttle (cityshuttle.ro).
Both offer a reliable airport transfer service at decent
prices. You can also get to town by taking bus No. 783,
which stops underneath the arrivals hall and leaves for
the city centre every 30 minutes during the day, and
then every 40 minutes through the night. Another bus,
No. 780, runs to Gara de Nord from 05:30 - 23:05. You
need to purchase an Activ card before boarding either
bus (get it from the little booth which youll find on
your right hand side as you exit the arrivals building).
A return journey into the city and back costs 7 lei (no
singles are available). You also need to pay 3.70 lei for
the card, but it can be recharged as often as you like at
any ticket kiosk in Bucharest, and used on all Bucharest
buses and trams. The cards cannot be bought on board.
When departing from Otopeni, allow yourself plenty
of time to get there: at least an hour if you are taking
the bus, particularly during the morning and evening
rush hours.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Arriving & Getting Around

PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Bucharests public transport network is extensive, covering all of the city as well as much of its surroundings. It is
also very cheap to use. Services are often poor however,
and during the week most forms of transport are horribly
overcrowded.
METRO
First opened in 1979, Bucharests metro was built to ship
workers from the vast housing estates of Titan, Berceni and
Militari out to the huge industrial plants at Pipera, IMGB, Republica and Industriilor. Thats all very well if you are resident
of Titan working at IMGB, but useless to everybody else. The
city centre is poorly served by the metro and only the northsouth M2 line, from Pipera to Berceni, which passes through
Piatas Victoriei, Romana and Unirii, and the M1 branch to the
Gara de Nord, are likely to be of any use to visitors. In our listings, all venues which are within walking distance of a metro
station carry the M symbol.
METRO TICKETS Tickets for the metro can be purchased
at all metro stations. Tickets valid for two journeys cost 5 lei,
while tickets valid for ten journeys cost a bargain 20 lei. You
can also buy a daily ticket for 8 lei, while a weekly season
ticket costs 25 lei.
TRAMS, BUSES & TROLLEYBUSES (RATB) Most main
roads in the city centre benefit from three or four different
transport routes. Many buses are overcrowded, however, and
travelling on them can often be a less than pleasant experience. Buses, trolleybuses and trams run from very early in
the morning (around 04:30) to around 23:00 (earlier at weekends), after which the extensive night bus network takes
over. All night buses depart from Piata Unirii.
RATB TICKETS To use a bus, trolleybus or tram you will
need to buy an Activ card before climbing aboard. These
cards cost 3.70 lei, and can be bought from the little kiosks
next to major stops. They need to be loaded with credit
(minimum 5 lei) and are reusable. The card is then debited
each time you validate it at one of the orange devices located
on buses, trams and trolleybuses. One trip costs 1.30 lei. On
all forms of public transport in Bucharest children under the
age of seven travel free. After that they need a full-price ticket.
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August - September 2015

Arriving & Getting Around

TRAINS

CAR RENTAL IN BUCHAREST

Given that Romanias roads are terrible, its comforting to

know that the countrys railways are equally crap. Having said that, many long years of upgrade work on the
Bucharest - Brasov and Bucharest - Constanta routes are
now complete, and journey times are back to something
approaching 1989 levels: around two hours and 30 mins
to Brasov, just under two hours to Constanta. Should you
have to take a train, always try to get an InterCity (IC - note
these are few and far between) or InterRegio (IR) as they
are the fastest and usually have the most modern rolling
stock. Regio (R-) trains are slow and often use much older
rolling stock. You will also see trains designated as ICN:
these are InterCity trains which stop at more stations than
usual. Prices on all types of train are relatively cheap, but
are rising fast. An InterRegio adult single from Bucharest to
Brasov costs 73 lei. To buy train tickets visit either the station, a CFR agency or buy online at cfrcalatori.ro. (Note that
if buying online you need to do so at least 24 hours in advance). Tickets cannot be purchased on board CFR trains,
though you can try bribing the guard. Many locals do this
habitually. On the privately run Hyperion train, however.
which departs Bucharest for Brasov at 09:00 each morning, you can buy tickets on board. There is also free Wifi
and a coffee machine: a refreshing change to CFR. Tickets
cost just 25 lei. There is, alas, just the one private train per
day at the moment, although more may follow soon. For
more info, see the website softrans.ro. The full Romanian
train timetable is online at cfrcalatori.ro.

AVIS
A delivery and collection service is available free of charge
within the city limits; the service is on request, and it depends on the availability of the Avis rental office.QB-dul
Theodor Pallady 51, tel. *AVIS (*2847) - OSSN (One Star
Smart Number), (+4) 021 210 43 44, www.avis.ro. Open
09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at (C-5) InterContinental, tel. (+4) 021 314 18 37, Open 08:00 - 20:00; Henri
Coanda International Airport, tel. (+4) 021 204 19 57,
Open 07:00 - 02:00 and Avis Porsche Bucharest North,
tel. (+4) 0723 612 011, Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 15:00, Closed Sun.

AGENTIA DE VOIAJ CFR CFRs advance booking offices.

QA-4, Calea Grivitei 139, MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 021
313 26 42, www.cfr.ro. Open 08:00-18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

8 Bucharest In Your Pocket

BAVARIA RENT
QDrumul Garii Otopeni 1B, tel. (+4) 0730 33 37 07, (+4)
031 802 22 22, fax (+4) 031 802 22 28, www.bavariarent.
ro. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
BUDGET QB-4, Str. Mihail Moxa 9, tel. (+4) 021 210 28
67, fax (+4) 021 210 29 95, www.budget.ro. Open 09:00
- 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at (B-3) Calea Dorobanti
5 - 7 (Howard Johnson Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 201 50 89,
Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun and Henri Coanda
International Airport, tel. (+4) 021 204 16 67, Open
08:00 - 20:00.
CARS4RENT QStr. Drumul Odaii 1D (Hotel Charter), tel. (+4) 0723 34 71 92/(+4) 0372 99 99 99, www.
cars4rent.ro. Open 24 hrs.
COMPACT RENT-A-CAR QA-4, B-dul N. Titulescu 1,
bl A7, sc. 1, et. 6, ap. 16, tel. (+4) 0744 58 67 24, (+4) 021
312 98 57, www.compact-rentacar.ro. Prices from 18/
day.

bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Arriving & Getting Around

TOURIST INFORMATION

BUCHAREST TAXIS

INFO TOURIST CENTER

Privately-run centre on Calea Victoriei which is phenomenally helpful and perhaps even better than the
citys official tourist information office. Open Sundays.
QC-5, Calea Victoriei 68-70, tel. (+4) 021 211 33 66.
Open 9:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.

By and large, Bucharests numerous cheap and trustworthy yellow taxis are easy to spot as they are emblazoned with the name and phone number of the company they are associated with. To counter this, however,
dodgy taxis also plaster phone numbers over their cars,
alongside copy-cat logos. Be extra careful when getting into a taxi around Gara de Nord, Piata Universitatii,
Piata Unirii and the Old Town / Lipscani area. When leaving a hotel or restaurant, always have the concierge or
waiter order you a cab. Never pay more than 1.69 lei per
kilometre in any taxi.
As an alternative to standard taxis, there are also now a
couple of companies offering a more professional service
and smarter cars. One of these is VMS CityShuttle, with all
fares being a fixed price. VMS also offer airport transfers
and run tours of Bucharest and its surroundings, as well
as the Prahova Valley and southern Transylvania. See the
website cityshuttle.ro for more details. Uber is also now
present in Bucharest, so if you have an Uber account and
the app on your phone you can use it while in the city.

EUROPCAR
QD-6, Str. Grigore Mora 17, tel. (+4) 021 310 17 97, (+4)
0747 28 06 49, www.europcar.ro. Open 09:00 - 18:00.
Also at Henri Coanda Airport tel. (+4) 0374 00 40, Open
08:00 - 22:00. Service also available in Cluj, Constanta,
Sibiu, Timisoara, Iasi.
HERTZ QHenri Coanda Airport, Sos. Bucurestilor 224E,
Clad. Corp AS4, etaj 1, tel. (+4) 021 204 12 78, Open 08:00
- 22:00. tel. (+4) 021 407 82 00, www.hertz.ro. Also at Str.
Drumul Garii Odai 1A, int. A, et. 2, tel. (+4) 021 407 82 00.
SIXT NEW KOPEL
QSos. Bucuresti-Ploiesti 145, tel. (+4) 021 9400, (+4)
0372 37 20 05, reservation@sixt.ro, www.sixt.ro. Open
09:00 - 17:30. Also at Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott), Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Sat, Sun and Henri
Coanda Airport, Open 24hrs.

10 Bucharest In Your Pocket

TRUSTED TAXI COMPANIES: Apolodor 021

9499, Autogeneral 021 9401, Cobalcescu 021 9451,
Cristaxi 021 9461, Leone 021 9425, Meridian 021 9444,
Mondial 021 9423, Pelicanul 021 9665. Most of these
companies have at least one operator who speaks English.

bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Bucharest Basics
WHEN THINGS GO WRONG
In an emergency call 112. You do not need to use the
city code. You will be asked which service you require
(Politia/Police, Ambulanta/Ambulance or Pompierii/
Firemen). Emergency call centre operators should speak
English or French but in our experience they do not always do so. At least make sure you know the name of
the street you are calling from. If you get into trouble
with the Police, demand to call your embassy. There is a
list on page 77. The citys main police station is at (B-4)
Str. Lascar Cartagiu 22, tel. (+4) 021 212 56 84. The best
Casualty Unit (Emergency Room) in the city is at Spitalul de Urgente, (C-3) Calea Floreasca 8, next to Dinamo
Stadium. There is a list of Pharmacies on page 77, and
an English-speaking Dentist on page 75.

CRIME & SAFETY

We do not exaggerate when we say that Bucharest is one
of the safest capital cities in Europe. Violent crime is rare and
almost always carried out exclusively between rival gangs
in the citys less-salubrious areas. If you do not go looking
for trouble, the chances of you getting into any are tiny.
While pickpockets are everywhere (you should be particularly careful on crowded buses), violent crime is unheard of,
and even women can walk the citys streets alone at night in
relative safety. The Romanian police force is also far better
and less corrupt than it used to be and keeps a visual presence on the citys streets, especially in busy areas such as
Old Town at night. The main police station in Bucharest is on
B-dul Lascar Cartagiu (B-4), halfway between Piata Romana
and Piata Victoriei. If you are driving, or are out late at night, it
is a good idea to carry at least a photocopy of your passport
and driving license. Drinking in public (except in designated
areas) leaves you open to a fine, and despite appearances to
the contrary, prostitution is illegal. If you are arrested ask to
speak to your embassy. There is a list on page 77.
In a nutshell though, do not worry. Of all Bucharests
many problems, crime really is one of the least of them.

LEFT LUGGAGE
Gara de Nord offers left luggage facilities, but no lockers. You
will find the left luggage counter opposite the Wasteels office. The charge is 5 lei per small bag per 24 hours, 9 lei for a
bigger bag. You will need ID.

MONEY
Romanias currency is the leu (plural lei), divided into 100
bani. Leu notes come in denominations of 500, 200, 100, 50,
10, 5 and 1. There are also 50, 10, 5 and 1bani coins. 1 is currently worth 4.44 lei. The best place to get your hands on lei
is at an ATM. If you have to change cash, do it inside a bank.
Credit and debit cards (MasterCard and Visa) are accepted
almost everywhere. American Express cards are less widely
accepted, but can usually be used in Bancpost ATMs.
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August - September 2015

11

Bucharest Basics
STRAY DOGS

POLITICS
In November 2014 the Mayor of Sibiu Klaus Iohannis - an
ethnic German - caused a major surprise by defeating Victor
Ponta in the second round run-off of Romanias presidential
election. The margin of victory - ten per cent - was enormous, despite Ponta being Romanias serving prime minister. Ponta remains the countrys prime minister and head of
government, although the scale of his defeat in the presidential election, as well as the fact that his party, the PSD,
has become a byword for corruption, make it highly unlikely
that he will remain in office much longer.

I WANT TO...
GO SWIMMING Bucharests best water park is Divertiland (see page 46). Gradina Floreasca (page 36) and
Player Club (page 42) both have big outdoor pools
open all day, while most of the big five-star hotels (see
pages 69-70) also have pools open to the public.
HIRE A BIKE You will find iVelo bike rental centres at
the entrances to Herastrau (A-2; see page 51), Tineretului and Titan parks. Rental costs 5 lei per hour (15 lei
per day) and is free for the under-16s.
TAKE A PEE The Universitate underpass (C-5) and Piata
Victoriei metro station (B-4) offer public loos, as does Gara
de Nord (A-4). Otherwise, head for the nearest McDonalds.
12 Bucharest In Your Pocket

Theyve gone. Yep, while you may still spot the odd
stray here and there, the number of strays terrorising
the Romanian capitals streets has been decreasing
fast. As such, its perhaps time to recognise that many
areas of the capital are now dog free. The agency responsible for dealing with stray dogs, ASPA, published
in January a report which would suggest the dog
problem is indeed becoming a thing of the past: it estimates the number of strays in Bucharest to now be
as low as 4,000: thats a huge decrease since the last
major dog census was carried out in 2013, when there
were almost 65,000. This of course begs the question:
Where have all the dogs gone? To be perfectly honest, we dont really care, but according to ASPA around
20,000 have been adopted, 2,000 remain in shelters
and 26,000 have been put down. Whats important of
course is that the dogs are no longer on our streets, and
that things stay that way: dog numbers have fallen in
the past (although never as low as current levels) only
to increase again very quickly. Keeping the streets safe
is an ongoing task. It is also a shame that a small boy
had to die before something got done.

Should you be bitten during your time in Bucharest, present yourself at once to the casualty unit (Camera de Garda) at the Institutul Matei Bals, (D-3) Str. Dr.
Calistrat Grozovici 1, tel. (+4) 021 318 60 90. The wound
will be cleaned up, and you will be administered both
an anti-tetanus and the first of three anti-rabies jabs
(the others must be done seven and then 21 days afterwards). You will also get a prescription for a course of
antibiotics.

SO WHERE AM I?
Situated in that part of the world which will perhaps
always be known as Eastern Europe, it would be more
accurate to describe Bucharests geographical location
as south-eastern Europe. Founded, legend has it, in the
14th century, Bucharest is in a part of Romania known as
Wallachia, one of the three historic principalities which
make up the modern country (the others are Moldavia
and Transylvania). The official population of Bucharest is
just under two million, but as many migrants from the
rest of the country do not register as citizens of the capital, the true number is probably closer to three million.
Bucharest is close to the Danube (which is just 69
kilometres to the south), the border between Romania
and Bulgaria. The main crossing point is at Giurgiu, linked
by a bridge with Ruse, the Bulgarian town on the other
side of the river. Bucharest is around 240 kilometres from
Constanta and the Black Sea coast: the journey can be
done in just over two hours. To the north of Bucharest
is Ploiesti, and beyond that the Carpathian Mountains, a
two hour drive away from the capital.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Jewish Bucharest

A BRIEF HISTORY OF JEWS IN ROMANIA

The story of the Jews in Romania is not a happy one. Relatively small until the mid-19th century, the size of the Romanian Jewish community - predominantly urban - grew
from the 1840s onwards as large numbers of Jews sought
refuge in Moldavia and Wallachia from persecution in Tsarist Russia, and by the mid-1860s there were more than
150,000 Jews nationwide. Alas the Jews fared little better - initially - in Romanian lands than they had in Russia,
with strict laws enacted preventing them from wearing
traditional dress, sending their children to school and even
becoming Romanian citizens. There were frequent attacks
on Jews and their property (particularly in Iasi) while there
was a major anti-Jewish riot in Bucharest in 1866, when
large numbers of Jews were beaten and the Choral Temple
(rebuilt soon afterwards) desecrated and destroyed.
There was another wave of Jewish immigration in
1903-5 following the Chisinau Pogrom of April 1903 (Chisinau was at the time part of the Russian Empire), and while
the plight of the Jews improved considerably as their numbers and political influence grew, it was only in the aftermath of World War I that Romanian Jews were awarded full
civil rights, later guaranteed in the 1923 Romanian Constitution. It was during the 1920s that the number of Jews
living in Romania reached its peak (at around 730,000),
around a third of whom lived in Bessarabia (today the Republic of Moldova). Bucharests Jewish population peaked
at 70,000 in 1930: as much as ten per cent of the citys
population.
Romania was not, however, immune to the anti-Semitism of 1930s Europe, and the rise in popularity of the fascist
scum Legionnaire Movement and its horrific paramilitary
wing, the Iron Guard, can in part by explained by its violently
anti-Semitic policies. By the time the Iron Guard joined the
government of military leader Ion Antonescu and formed its
Legionary State in September 1940, much anti-Semitic legislation had already been passed, and the Legionnaires were
allowed to persecute Jews with impunity. This persecution
intensified, becoming violent in the almost inimaginably
brutal three-day Bucharest Pogrom of January 21-23, during
which the Legionnaires killed - in the most horrific manner
possible - 125 Jews; women and children included. Thou14 Bucharest In Your Pocket

sands more were beaten and tortured, and two

synagogues were destroyed. And worse was
to come: in July 1941 as many as 13,000 Jews
were killed in Iasi, in one of the worst pogroms
in Jewish history. Mass killings and deportations
followed, and, according to the Wiesel Commission report released by the Romanian government in 2004, Romania in total killed 280,000 to
380,000 Jews during World War II. At the same
time, 120,000 of Transylvanias 150,000 Jews
died at the hands of Hungarys fascist government (writer Elie Wiesel - the Nobel Peace Prize
winner who was chairman of the Wiesel Commission - was deported with his family from
Sighet to Auschwitz by the Hungarian regime).
And while as many as 350,000 Romanian Jews
survived the war, the Wiesel Commission states
that of all the allies of Nazi Germany, Romania was responsible for the deaths of more Jews than any country other than
Germany itself.
At the wars end, mass emigration to Israel once again
reduced the number of Jews in Romania. Those who remained suffered further persecution at the hands of the
countrys new, communist rulers, most notably in the early
1950s. The failure of the first Danube-Black Sea Canal project in 1952 was blamed on Jewish engineers, who were
accused of Zionism and executed. Throughout the communist period however, Romania allowed large numbers
of Jews to emigrate to Israel, in exchange for much-needed
Israeli economic aid (in the 1980s Nicolae Ceausescu would
pursue a similar policy with West Germany, accepting cash
payment in exchange for allowing the emigration of Transylvanian Saxons). By 1987, there were just 27,000 Jews left
in Romania. Further emigration since the 1989 revolution
has reduced numbers even further, and in the 2011 census
just 3,271 people identified themselves as Jews.
CONTEMPORARY JEWISH BUCHAREST Almost all of
Bucharests Jewish district - which was centred on the Choral Temple and spread from Piata Unirii east towards Dristor
- was destroyed during the demolitions of the 1980s to make
way for Bulevardul Unirii. The enormous Malbim Synagogue
(which stood exactly where the National Library is today) was
just one of hundreds of Jewish properties pulled down. Yet a
handful of buildings in the area survived, and most can be
visited, including the remaining synagogues (one of which
hosts a Holocaust Museum), the Jewish History Museum (located in an old synagogue) and the Jewish Theatre, next to
which is a Jewish school, Lauder-Reut.
CHORAL TEMPLE First built in 1857, then rebuilt in 1866
following its destruction in a pogrom, the red-brick Choral Temple (pictured, above right) has a memorial in front
of it that commemorates the Romanian Jews sent to their
deaths during the Holocaust. It is a copy of Viennas Leopoldstadt-Tempelgasse Great Synagogue. It was rededicated
in December 2014 following an eight-year renovation of
the fabulous, colourful interior.QC6, Str. Sf. Vineri 9-11,
MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 312 21 96.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Jewish Bucharest
Synagogue is perhaps today the most important Jewish
building in the country. The synagogue hosts an excellent exhibition dedicated to Jewish martyrs, and to Moses
Rosen, who served as Romanias Chief Rabbi for 30 years
until his death in 1994. Guided tours are available (phone
ahead). The building also continues to serve as an active
place of worship.QC6, Str. Vasile Adamache 11, MPiata
Unirii. Open 08:30 - 15:00, Fri, Sun 08:30 - 13:00. Closed
Sat, Morning Prayer: Sun-Fri 08:00, Sat 09:30, Evening
Prayer: Sun-Fri 19:00.
YESHOAH TOVA SYNAGOGUE (SINAGOGA EUA
TOVA) Located on a busy side street off Bulevardul Magheru, this is in fact Bucharests oldest synagogue, dating
from 1827. It is one of just three synagogues in Bucharest
which still holds religious services.QC4, Str. Tache Ionescu 9, MPiata Romana. Services take place when
Sabbath commences on Friday evenings, as well as on
Saturdays at 09:00.

HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL Unveiled in October 2009,

Romanias Holocaust Memorial finally recognises the
countrys role in the genocide of Europes Jews. The countrys role in the Holocaust and in the deportation of Jews
was ignored by the Communists, and it was minimized
by subsequent governments after the collapse of Communism beginning in 1989. This monument is full of symbolism hundreds of thousands were killed who would
have contributed to the cultural and economic prosperity
of Romania, said Rabbi Menachem HaCohen, Romanias
chief rabbi, at its opening.QB6, Str. Ion Brezoianu/Str.
Ilfov, MEroilor.
JEWISH HISTORY MUSEUM (HOLY UNION
TEMPLE; MUZEUL DE ISTORIE A EVREILOR DIN
ROMANIA) Housed in the amazing Holy Union Temple
synagogue, constructed in 1836, this building has served
as a museum of Jewish history since 1978. A number of
separate exhibitions display how the once vibrant Jewish
community of Bucharest used to live, while there is also
an impressive Jewish liturgical collection, most of which
was assembled by Moses Rosen, Romanias chief rabbi
from 1964-94 who founded the museum. The considerable Jewish contribution to Romanian culture is also well
covered, although it could be argued that the biggest attraction is the building itself: the interior - split over three
levels with two ornate galleries - is richly decorated from
floor to ceiling.QC6, Str. Mmulari 3, MPiata Unirii, tel.
(+4) 021 311 08 70. Open 09:00 - 14:00, Fri, Sun 09:00 13:00. Closed Sat. Admission free.
THE GREAT POLISH SYNAGOGUE & HOLOCAUST MUSEUM Bucharests Great Synagogue, often
called the Great Polish Synagogue, was built from 1845
-1846 by the Ashkenazi Polish-Jewish community. Rather
plain on the outside the interior is an impressive. colourful mixture of baroque and rococo styles, and the Great
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FURTHER READING
For a thorough account of the Holocaust in Romania, we
recommend Radu Ioanids book Holocaust in Romania:
The Destruction of Jews & Gypsies by the Antonescu Regime.
For a slightly different look at life as a Jew in 1930s and 40s
Romania, you can do no better than the brilliant Journal:
The Fascist Years, by Mihai Sebastian. The full Wiesel Commission Report is online at yadvashem.org.

THE LOST SYNAGOGUES

Besides the three Bucharest synagogues which still
hold religious services (the Choral Temple, the Great
Polish Synagogue and the Yeshoah Tova), as well as
the Holy Union Temple which houses the Jewish History Museum, there are two more abandoned synagogues which can still be (just about) seen. The first,
the Beit Hamidrash Synagogue, is in fact the oldest
of all Bucharests Jewish places of worship, originally
dating back to the late 18th-century. Found at the
intersection of Calea Mosilor and Strada Lipscani, the
synagogue is hidden behind a crumbling building
and almost impossible to spot unless you know what
you are looking for. The synagogue - which was badly
damaged by the Legionnaires in the 1941 pogrom,
has been abandoned, it would appear, for decades. A
similar - although not quite so sad - fate has befallen
another synagogue, built in the 1920s in the Vitan area
of Bucharest. Known as the Hevrah Amuna or Temple
of Faith, the synagogue is on Strada Vasile Toneanu,
directly behind the Bucuresti Mall. From Calea Vitan
take the first left after the Mall (Strada Vlad Judetul) and
then the first left again. The Hevrah Amuna synagogue
- in reasonable shape although no longer used - is on
the left hand side. The synagogues courtyard is usually
closed, although when we visited it looked as though
there were people living in one of the small buildings
at the rear.
August - September 2015

15

Driving the Transfagarasan

More than 150 kilometres in length the Transfagarasan

Highway is Romanias most spectacular and best known
road and, thanks to an appearance on BBC Top Gear in
2009, now one of the countrys most popular tourist attractions. Fully open only from June to October, the roads
highest point is at 2042 metres: the tunnel which links the
northern and southern sides at Lake Balea (Balea Lac).
A LITTLE HISTORY
The Transfagarasan - as with everything else in Romania at
the time, it would seem - was built from 1970-1974 on the
personal orders of Nicolae Ceausescu, who, legend has it,
wanted to create a strategic route across the Fagaras Mountains to ferry troops north should Romania be invaded by
the USSR (as Czechoslovakia had been in 1968). This legend of course ignores the fact that a perfectly good and far
quicker route around the mountains (the Valea Oltului) already existed, and that any strategic impact of a road open
for only a few months each year would have been minimal.
Still, who are we to question a good urban myth?
A far more likely explanation for the construction of the
road was the simple fact that the mountains were there,
and that the road across the very top would serve as a
proud example of just what socialist Romania - with Ceausescu as its leader - could achieve. Much like the DanubeBlack Sea Canal project of the 1980s the Transfagarasan was
therefore built as a status symbol with little regard for cost
or usefulness. (Indeed - whisper it - but the Transfagarasan
is fundamentally useless).
Yet whereas the Danube-Black Sea Canal is today the
biggest white elephant in the country (it carries very little
marine traffic), the Transfagarasan has never been more
popular. Always a favoured weekend trip for Romanian drivers, its international fame now means that motoring enthusiasts from all over Europe (particularly Poland, in our expe16 Bucharest In Your Pocket

rience) beat a path here each summer. While the you can
just about do the Transfagarasan in a (long) day trip from
Bucharest, we recommend taking a couple of days: besides
the Transfagarasan itself there is plenty to see along the way.
GETTING THERE
To get to the Transfagarasan from Bucharest, the best way
is to take the A1 motorway to the industrial town of Pitesti (best known as being the place where Dacia cars are
made). There is little to recommend a stop in the town itself,
except perhaps the memorial north of the city centre marking the site of Pitesti Prison. This - along with Sighet in the
very north of Romania - was the most notorious of the communist prisons where countless intellectuals and members
of the old ruling class were executed from 1948-1954.
A much better choice for your first pit stop is in fact Curtea de Arges, a small town 38 kilometers north of Pitesti.
It is home to the ruins of the Princely Court (Curtea Domneasca, Open 10:00-17:00) built by Basarab I in the 14th
century. While there is not really very much left of the Court
building itself, the well-kept church (Biserica Domneasca)
is in excellent condition - it was entirely renovated from
2003-4 and open to the public. Basarab I is buried near the
churchs altar.
A short distance north of the city (and on the way to
the Transfagarasan) is the even more impressive Biserica
Episcopala Curtea de Arges, part of the Curtea de Arges
Monastery. A superb example of Byzantine design, the cathedral was built between 1514 and 1526 using materials
brought almost entirely from Constantinople, on the orders
of Neagoe Basarab, the son of Basarab I.

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bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Driving the Transfagarasan

UP THE SOUTHERN SIDE
The DN7C officially becomes the Transfagarasan at the little
village of Albestii de Arges, 6km north of Curtea de Arges.
The road climbs steadily from here, and by the time you
reach Capatenii Pamantului - the last village before the serious hairpins begin - the scenery is already stunning, with
the road clinging in places to the cliffs as it passes through
a wonderful natural gorge. Capatenii Pamantului (which
rather fittingly translates, by the way, as The Ends of the
Earth) is home to the ruins of the real Dracula Castle,
Poienari, (real in the sense that Vlad Dracul actually lived
here for a time. Bran Castle - often marketed as Draculas
Lair, was never Vlads home). You will see the impressive
castle high to your left as you approach: you can visit the
ruins, but doing so involves a climb up more than 1500
very, very steep steps (see the box, right). At the foot of the
climb there is a pension, the Pensiunea La Cetate.
From here a series of hairpins and three short tunnels
bring you to the next landmark on the Transfagarasan,
the Vidraru Dam. One of the largest hydroelectric plants
in Europe - it is 305 metres in length - the road passes
across the top of the dam. The dam took more than five
years to build and created the artificial Vidraru Lake on
the Arges river. It was completed in 1966 and stands 166
metres tall, producing as much as 400 GWh of power per
year. As you come off the dam look out for the electricity
pylon disguised as a statue of Promotheus - representing
power - on the cliff directly in front of you. The statue was
created in 1965 by the sculptor Constantin Popovici. If you
can find a parking space some steps allow you to climb up
to the statue, from where there are even better views of
the lake. (Just try to ignore the huge advertisment for a cement company which has been painted without thought
for the surroundings onto the rock and, we would suggest,
boycott their products).
During the summer there are boat trips on the lake.
Lasting 30 minutes they cost 10 lei per person. Departure
times are ad hoc depending on how many visitors there
are, but during August and early September - especially
at weekends - you should never have to wait too long. A
couple of hundred metres further along the road there is a
hotel, the elegant Hotel Posada Vidraru.
The Transfagarasan then follows the outline of the
lake (and another hotel overlooking the lake, the Valea cu
Pesti), the water often visible through the trees on your
left. The valley then gets gradually steeper, before climbing sharply, up to its highest point: the 890m long Capra
Tunnel, at an altitude of 2042m. (This fact means that the
Transfagarasan is not actually the highest road in Romania:
the Transalpina further west reaches a maximum altitude
of 2145m). Note that there is another hotel along the way,
the Conacul Ursului, just before the start of the hairpins on
the southern side: its good value restaurant is a decent
place to stop for food, as it is usually less crowded than the
places at the top.
THE TOP OF THE TRANSFAGARASAN: BALEA LAC
As you exit the Capra Tunnel the landscape changes starkly,
and quite often the weather with it. Whereas the southfacebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

POIENARI CASTLE

First built at the beginning of the 14th century by Wallachian prince Radu Voda (also known as Radu Negru,
or Negru Voda) the Poienari Castle is one of the most
visually striking citadels in Romania. Found high above
the start of the Transfagarasan Highway, it looks menacingly down at the pass below, as if daring invading
armies to try and take it. Few armies - unsurprisingly ever did. It was nature - in the form of a landslide in the
17th century - which rendered the castle unusable for
military purposes. Even today, with the help of modern
staircases and a bridge, climbing up to the castle ruins
is only for the very fittest: there are more than 1500 very
steep steps, and the climb is tough. Often called the
real Dracula castle it is worth noting that while Vlad
Tepes (Vlad Dracul) did use the castle as a home from
time to time (more than can be said for Bran Castle) it
was not his primary residence.
ern side is a relatively gentle climb, made in the most part
through the trees along the side of Lake Vidraru, the scene
on the northern side is little short of spectacular: a wide
open valley with the road serpentining its way down visible
as far as the eye can see. This is the classic picture postcard
view of the Transfagarasan, and one which moved Jeremy
Clarkson to call it every great corner from every great race
track lined up one after the other.
At Balea Lac, just below the tunnel, there are two comfortable pensions (Cabana Paltinu and Cabana Balea Lac)
and - in winter - an ice hotel if you want to stay up here the
night. The cabins also have good - if not cheap - restaurants. See balealac.ro for more information. In winter there
August - September 2015

17

Driving the Transfagarasan

is a cable car which provides access to the cabins and ice
hotel from Balea Cascada, as the road is closed. There is
also a rather tacky, touristy market next to the large car
park at the exit of the tunnel, selling all sorts of rubbish as
well as a few decent treats (such as krts kalcs).
The Fagaras Mountains are extremely popular with
hikers: this is the some of the best hiking terrain in Europe. There are tens of well-marked routes criss-crossing
the mountains, which are also dotted by mountain huts
offering basic food and accommodation. At Balea Lac
you can pick up a number of routes, including one which
leads down to Balea Cascada, and one which goes up to
Negoiu Peak: at 2525m the tallest mountain in the Fagaras
range and the second tallest in Romania. Do not attempt
any hiking in the Fagaras unless you are well equipped for
bad weather, have decent boots and have a good map: the
Fagaras mountains are not for the casual walker.
DOWN TO CARTISOARA
From Balea Lac the 25km drive down the most spectacular
part of the Transfagarasan to Cartisoara takes around 45
minutes, although at weekends - when half of Romania
can often appear to turn up - it can take double that. As
such, we advise anyone planning to drive the Transfagarasan to do so during the week.
@ Dreamstime
Mihocphoto
There are very
few places to stop and take photos (and
you will see most people trying to do so by hanging out of
their car windows). There are a number of small memorials
to those who worked (and died) on the road, but the first
main stopping point on the way down is Balea Cascada
(the Balea Waterfall). The highest step-waterfall in Romania, Balea is more than 60 metres tall. It can be reached
from the cable car station in around an hour, via a wellmarked hiking route. The cable car itself runs back up to
Balea Lac, and during the winter (when the road beyond
this point is closed) is the only way up. The cable car usually
runs during the summer too.
At Cartisoara (where the Badea Cartan Museum, featuring a collection of painted glass icons and an old shepherds house complete with thatched roof is well worth a
stop) those of you on a day trip should turn left onto the
DN1 and head for Avrig and the DN7, which will get you
back to Pitesti and the A1 in around two hours. If you are in
less of a hurry head for Sibiu, Transylvanias most fabulous
city, just 25km beyond Avrig.
Note that DN7 itself runs along the Olt Valley and is a
wonderful drive in itself, especially the part which passes
through the Cozia National Park. If you have time stop at
the 14th century Cozia Monastery: one of Romanias oldest. In 1986 stained glass windows featuring the portraits of
Nicolae and Elena Ceausescu were added to those of Decebal, Burebista and other great historical Romanian leaders:
they have since been removed.

@inyourpocket
18 Bucharest In Your Pocket

GEORGE ENESCU FESTIVAL

Held every two years in honour of Romanias greatest
composer, George Enescu, the Enescu Festival has in
recent years become one of the most prestigious music
festivals in Europe, and attracts the finest musicians, conductors and orchestras from around the world. Whats
more, as the festival has grown in stature it has also
grown in size, and appeal. Besides the headline events
held at the Atheneum, Sala Palatului, Sala Radio and the
Romanian National Opera, a number of events are now
held in public squares around Bucharest and Romania.
This years festival runs from August 30-September
20 and is very much the best yet. The list of orchestras
performing is outstanding: the London Symphony
Orchestra, the St. Petersburg Philharmonic, the Bayerisches Staatsorchester, the San Francisco Symphony and
the Vienna Philharmonic are just a few. All are appearing as part of the Great Orchestras of the World series of
concerts, very much the blue riband of the festival. Yet
theres more: Midnight Concerts, Chamber Orchestras,
Recitals and even a thorough review of contemporary
Romanian music.
The full programme runs to pages: see the festivals
excellent website festivaleneescu.ro/en for more details (including online ticket purchasing). Note however that a number of concerts have been sold out for
months. Tickets can also be purchased from Eventim at
the Sala Palatului Box Office (B-5), and at eventim.ro.
Free Concerts From September 11-20 there will be
a concert every night in Festival Square (B/C-5; Piata
George Enescu). Entry is free, although there are a limited number of seats so it will be first-come, first-served.
There is no limit on standing places, however.

Concerts in Festival Square

11/9
12/9
12/9
13/9
14/9
14/9

19:30
18:00
19:30
19:30
19:30
20:00

15/9

19:30

15/9
16/9
16/9
17/9
17/9
18/9
19/9

20:00
19:30
20:00
19:00
19:30
19:30
19:30

20/9

19:30

CRAIOVA PHILHARMONIC
ZHIBEK MUSSURGALIYEVA
BUCHAREST FESTIVAL ORCHESTRA
SINFONIA ORCHESTRA
BRASS TONES ENSEMBLE
ART QUARTET
TRANSYLVANIAN SAXOPHONE
QUARTET
FOUR STRINGS QUARTET
VOCAL GROUP ACAPELLA
TRIO MOZAIC
NICOLAS BOURDONCLE
PLAYTHOVEN DUO
ROYAL CAMERATA
BUCHAREST SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA
BUCHAREST SYMPHONIC POPS
ORCHESTRA
bucharest.inyourpocket.com

The Bucharest City Tour

Now in its fourth year of operation the Bucharest City Tour

sightseeing bus - much maligned when it first appeared - is
more popular than ever and is without question one of the
best ways to explore the city. In all there are 14 stops along
the route (all are well signposted) and every one is directly
outside or very close to a major sight. Leaving Casa Scanteii
(officially now called Casa Presei Libere) the bus follows Soseaua Kiseleff, passing Herastrau Park and the Village Museum on the left, and Romanias national rugby stadium on
the right, before arriving at the Arc de Triumf.
From here the bus continues along Soseaua Kiseleff,
passing some of the most expensive real estate in Bucharest.
Many of the splendid houses on this street are now embassies. Pavel Kiseleff by the way, for whom the street is named,
was a modernising Russian general who was the de facto
governor of Bucharest and Wallachia in the 1830s.
A trio of good museums await at the next stop, at the
bottom of Soseaua Kiseleff. The best is the Peasant Museum while the Grigore Antipa Museum of Natural History
and Geology Museum are also worth your time.
Calea Victoriei is Bucharests most famous street, and
you get a very different perspective from atop a bus than
you do at street level. The vast number of architectural
styles on show is immediately obvious, from the Brancovenesque houses at the northern end to the art-deco,
1930s apartment blocks further south. The biggest attraction on Calea Victoriei is probably Piata Revolutiei, where
the bus conveniently stops. On this huge square you will
find the Atheneum, the Athenee Palace Hilton, the Former
Royal Palace (now the National Museum of Art), the Former
Central Committee Building and the Revolution Memorial,
which locals call an olive on a stick.
The next stop is the rather amazing CEC building, home
of Romanias national savings bank, CEC. Opposite is the
Post Office Palace, a neoclassical gem built as the home
of the Romanian post office, but since 1970 the site of the
National History Museum. Behind the museum is the Old
Town area. At the bottom of Calea Victoriei is the river Dambovita, now more a canal than anything, its embankments
little more than ugly concrete slabs. Until the 1970s the
river was a more natural-looking affair, its embankments
covered in trees and foliage. Concrete-fan Nicolae Ceausescu deemed it untidy, however, and its fate was sealed. In
a similar way the whole area that the bus now enters was
also tidied up: hundreds of houses, churches, schools and
even hospitals were razed in order to make way for the Civic
Centre, of which the most important building is of course
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the Casa Poporului, where the bus stops. It is almost impossible to imagine how this area looked before the demolitions began (in 1984), but you can get an idea by peering
behind the blocks on Bulevardul Unirii at some of the few
surviving houses and at the church of the Antim Monastery, built in 1715 and which survived demolition only by
being moved 25 metres from its original location.
Piata Unirii itself is one of the largest public squares in
Europe. That does not, however, make it one of the nicest.
In fact, the square is an awful place, all concrete and traffic.
Respite can be found up the hill leading southwest from
the square, home of the Romanian Patriarchal Cathedral,
known Mitropoliei. From Unirii the bus makes its way along
Bulevardul Ion Bratianu, named for a former Romanian
prime minister. Look out for the Baratiei Church on your
right, which sticks out quite literally, almost into the street.
First built in 1590 it is one of the oldest churches in Bucharest. Next stop is Piata Universitatii (the bus stop is in fact
outside the Coltea hospital and church - well worth a short
visit).
Opposite is the much-overlooked Museum of the History Bucharest in the Sutu Palace, while on the other side
of the square is the university building itself, the InterContinental hotel and the National Theatre. The wierd statue in
front of the National Theatre is the Caruta cu paiate.
As you travel north along Bulevardul Magheru towards
the next stop, Piata Romana, look out for two art deco hotels, the Lido on the left (currently closed) and the Ambassador on the right. Both built in the 1930s they are crying
out for five-star refits. Piata Romana is another of Bucharests large public squares that is little more than a mess of
cars and concrete. On the right hand side is the ASE building, home of Bucharests economics university.
From Piata Romana the bus makes its way along Bulevardul Lascar Cartagiu towards Piata Victoriei. Smart villas
and apartment blocks line the avenue, named for another
former Romanian prime minister, Lascar Cartagiu. A large
statue of Cartagiu can be spotted about half way along the
street, on the right hand side. At Piata Victoriei, yet another
Bucharest square that is little more than concrete and traffic, the only point of any real interest (other than the museums) is the 1930s Italianate building on your right, once
the foreign ministry but now home to the Romanian government. Look out too for the dreadfully kitsch mansion on
your right, home of infamous criminal George Becali, the
owner of Steaua Bucharest. A little further along, on your
left, is the Aviators Monument, dedicated to the many aviation pioneers who hailed from these parts. Arriving at Piata
Aviatorilor, the bus rejoins Soseaua Kiseleff, stopping once
more (at the Village Museum) before ending its circuit back
at Casa Scanteii.
Tickets for the buses are valid for 24 hours, allowing you to
hop-on and hop-off as many times as you like throughout the
day. You do, however, need to validate the tickets each time
you board a bus. Tickets are priced at 25 lei for adults, 10 lei
for children, and can be bought either on board, at RATB ticket
kiosks or at selected hotels. Headphones offer basic recorded
commentary in a number of languages.
August - September 2015

19

Restaurants
SYMBOL KEY
P Air conditioning

N Credit cards not accepted

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

L Guarded parking E Live music

G No smoking

B Outside seating

S Take away

W Wifi

VIVO Burgers - big, tasty ones - and much more besides.

We tried the Game of Dijons burger, a right monster
packed with all sorts of treats, from parmesan and cheddar
to truffle oil and a seriously good mustard sauce. You will
do well to finish it. There are also fine ribs, chunky soups
and even salads. Desserts as immense as everything else,
and the only disappointment were the fries: not the best in
the city. Worth going though, for the burgers alone, if you
can get a table: this place is popular.QC3, Calea Floreasca 60, tel. (+4) 021 233 96 88, www.vivofoodbar.com.
Open 12:00 - 23:00. . PSW

AMERICAN & BURGERS

BRITISH

BUFFALO BAZ
Seriously good burgers of a size just about unsurpassed
anywhere else in the city. Not the biggest place in the
world you might have to wait for a seat at busy times, but
wait you should: the quality of the burgers is outstanding
and while far from cheap, for what you get you are paying
relatively little. Good choice of side dishes too (the fries are
way above average) and the noodles are well worth trying. For dessert, the cheesecake awaits (if they have any
left: it goes fast). Oh, and bring the kids: they will love the
place.QC3, Calea Floreasca 49, tel. (+4) 0736 36 83 35,
www.buffalobaz.com. Open 15:00 - 23:00, Wed, Thu
12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00.
. PLSW

THE TRAFALGAR PUB Popular with expats who have

a regular rendezvous here, this place is a pub and bistro
in one, where you can get a tasty meal for a decent price
while enjoying excellent company. The menu is international with a choice of British dishes - we can recommend
both the beef and chicken pies - but best of all we like
the beef sour soup (ciorba de vacuta) - one of the best in
the city. There is Guinness and Kilkenny on draught: both
at a good price. You really cant go wrong. Get there now.
QC4, Str. David Emmanuel 4A, tel. (+4) 021 211 31 51,
www.trafalgarpub.eu. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 01:00. . PLVEBSW

CHAMPIONS
Still serving one of the very best burgers in Bucharest
(you can choose one or design your own from an endless
choice of toppings), a fact undisputed by anyone weve
ever met. It is also one of the biggest. In fact, now we think
of it, the portions of everything here are enormous: even
the childrens servings are very healthy indeed. Besides
the burgers you will find a great selection of American
pub food, as well as Tex Mex treats and even some more
refined, slow food options. Famously good cocktails, and
more televisions showing sport than you could ever hope
for. Find it in the Marriott: up the stairs as you go in and
to your right.QB6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott
Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19 17, www.
championsrestaurant.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. .
PTLSW

NEW
LA BORDEI Dacian - not Romanian, note - although
there is much on the menu will be instantly recognisable
to anyone who knows their way around Romanian food.
Pleasingly, however, there will be much which is new,
genuinely different and - we think - unique to Bucharest.
Braised duck leg on a bed of red cabbage, stir-fried beef
tongue, cabbage pie and much else besides are all original
Dacian recipes, once cooked in various parts of the country
(the menu even makes a point of telling you where: commendable). They even serve no fewer than three different
kinds of mamaliga. Hosts lots of live music, including jazz
evenings.QB-dul Iuliu Maniu 7, MPolitehnica, tel. (+4)
0747 013 386/(+4) 0747 063 249, www.la-bordei.ro.
Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:30 - 01:00,
Sun 10:30 - 24:00. . PEGSW

HARD ROCK CAFE

One of the largest and quite frankly best Hard Rocks in Europe, you cant go wrong here, whatever time of day you
visit. Come for lunch with the kids (who are always well
looked after, and have their own menu), dinner with the
crowd from work or late drinks and live music with your
mates. All things to all people the burgers and ribs are a
cut above the usual, desserts are as outsized and sweet as
they should be, and the service comes from smiley waitresses and expert bar staff. We love it. Lets rock.QA2, Sos.
Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 021 206 62 61, www.hardrock.com/
bucharest. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00.
. PTLESW

FOOD & DRINK

20 Bucharest In Your Pocket

DACIAN

EMBASSY Popular with a wealthy crowd, the central and

original Embassy (there are a couple of spin-offs in town)
has been around a few years now, and in this city longevity
alone is a sign of how good it is. Serving a decent gourmet
burger and much else besides (including some cracking
cocktails) it is the kind of place that grows on you as the
evening wears on, and in all likeliness you will stay until
very late. We usually do. Try and bag a table outside in
summer: not easily done at the weekend.QC4, P-ta Lahovari 8, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0733 50 03 00, www.
embassy-club.ro. Open 11:00 - 03:00. . PBSW
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Restaurants
LA BELLE EPOQUE A big, bright and open-plan Belgian
beer cafe on Radu Beller in Dorobanti. There are plenty of
Belgian beers on offer - with Stella, Leffe and Hoegaarden
available on tap - as well as more than a few nice Belgian
touches in and around the bar. While the food is more local
than Belgian, it is very good, they serve pots of mussels, and
the dessert menu is something of a legend.QB2, Str. Radu
Beller 6, tel. (+4) 021 230 07 70, www.labelleepoque.
ro. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri 08:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 23:30, Last kitchen orders 23:00. . PIW
THE HARBOUR A top location, in Piata Amzei, with
food to match, as well as friendly and efficient staff. The
atmosphere is relaxing, the food better than average,
though the real joy of this place is its view to the market.
We came here for lunch recently and were stunned by
how many foreigners were eating here: it must be one of
the most popular tourist and visitor spots in town.QB4,
P-ta Amzei 10-22, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 319 72
57/(+4) 0724 38 86 86, www.harbour.ro. Open 11:30 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. . PLVBSW

FRENCH
ICI ET LA As regular readers will know we are suckers for
an open kitchen, and that is what we have here: sit and
watch the chef and owner prepare your gorgeous homemade French meal. They are rather proud of their smoked
salmon here (and rightly so) and the wine list features
plenty of affordable grape. Top it all off with the magnificent creme brulee.QC4, Str. Mendeleev 43, MPiata
Romana, tel. (+4) 0731 45 36 08, www.icietla.ro. Open
10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. . PVEBSW
LATELIER LART CULINAIRE
A truly amazing restaurant offering food lovers fine French
cuisine in an ambiance of rare charm, hidden in plain sight
in downtown Bucharest (its just minutes from Cismigiu).
The French chef, Samuel le Torriellec, offers a rich and
vibrant cuisine d auteur, created for the pure enjoyment
of the palate. Seasonal specialties currently include the
baby squid filled with summer vegetables and served in
Bouillabaisse style, with spicy garlic Rouille, the creamy
chocolate with homemade powdered green tea ice cream
or the blueberries and Provence lavender coulis, topped
with mini meringues and homemade vanilla ice cream.
The wine list is equally exceptional. Find it in the Hotel
Epoque: it is as fine and elegant as the hotel itself.QB5,
Str. Intrarea Aurora 17C (Epoque Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 312
32 32, www.latelier-restaurant.ro. Open 12:00 23:00.
. PLBSW

FUSION
LOFT LOUNGE The truth is the food here is amongst
the best in the land, cooked by perhaps the best chef in
the country. Its not just us who say so either. Ask anybody
in the city who knows their food and you get the same
reply: its brilliant. Inventive and magnificent food (seafood
22 Bucharest In Your Pocket

dominates), cooked to perfection. The squid served with

risotto, for example: it sounds so simple yet its a taste sensation. Not cheap of course, but worth the cost.QC4, Bdul Iancu de Hunedoara 56-60, MStefan cel Mare, tel.
(+4) 0756 38 56 38, www.loftlounge.ro. Open Tue, Thu
19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
. PLESW
MUSE BISTRO While not a vegetarian restaurant per se
(they serve seafood, fish and use eggs) there is no meat on
the menu here, and there is plenty on the menu for both
vegetarians and vegans to choose from. Opens for breakfast - start your day with the Dementa omelette, made
with mushrooms and mint - while the inventive pizzas (all
a bit different and more creative than you find elsewhere)
are amongst the best in the city. A tasty selection of soups,
salads and seafood round off a highly impressive selection
of well-priced treats.QB3, Str. Paris 17, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 0740 12 34 55, www.musebistro.ro. Open
09:00 - 22:00, Fri 09:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun
11:00 - 22:00. . PVBSW

GERMAN
DIE DEUTSCHE KNEIPE This place has remained more
or less unchanged in 19 years (it opened in 1996), and
thats just the way that we and all the other happy regulars
like it. Serving giant portions of great German sausages (all
made on the premises) as well as huge pork knuckles, seriously good kraut and a Hunter Schnitzel the size of the
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Restaurants
Bismarck it also has a couple of cracking German beers on
draught. Service comes with a smile from the family team
who own and run the place, and you will usually need a
reservation at weekends. Tuesday and Thursday theres a
business lunch: one of the best value feeds in the city. On
sunny days head for the beer garden, which comes complete with one of those German beer flagpole things. Brilliant.QC3, Str. Stockholm 9, tel. (+4) 021 233 94 62/(+4)
0722 28 45 60, office@diedeutschekneipe.ro, www.
diedeutschekneipe.ro. Open 15:00 - 23:00, Sat 14:00 23:00. Closed Sun. . PNBSW

INTERNATIONAL
BARKA SAFFRON We have been coming here since the
last century, when there was precious little choice in Bucharest for people wanting something a little different; a little
more spicy. Now there is plenty of choice but we still trot up
to Barka whenever we can. On our last visit we went for the
lamb with spinach in tomato sauce which was as good as we
had hoped. The onion bhajis remain Bucharests best. First
class cocktail list, and regular live music and arty events. Also
of note is that the owner has his own buffalo farm in Transylvania, and sells fantastic fresh buffalo telemea cheese here
at the restaurant.QA2, Str. Av. Sntescu 1, tel. (+4) 021
224 10 04. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PSW
NEW
CEAINARIA ANNETTE A gorgeous tea house serving a
wide range of fine and exotic teas, and a whole lot more
besides. Indeed, this is a restaurant as much as it is a tea
house, boasting as it does a good menu of international
dishes, including an outstanding raft of salads, soups,
pasta and some excellent beef. There is also a serviceable
range of beer, cocktails and wines. Everything to everyone this place, its perfect for just about anybody.QC4,
Str. Polona 77, MStefan cel Mare, tel. (+4) 0722 19 31
80/(+4) 0754 01 01 78, www.ceainariaannette.ro. Open
10:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. .
PVBSW
DONCAFE BRASSERIE Magnificent place - one of
our favourites - just off Piata Dorobanti. Open early for
breakfast (they do a more than decent English fry-up and
delicious pain chocolat) its busy throughout the day, catering to lunching ladies and business types as well as a
trendy crowd in the evenings. Great salads, a good range
of homemade pasta (and we mean homemade: it is put
together on the premises), a terrific osso bucco and a divine cheese cake are our fave dishes from the menu. You
go pick your own.QB3, Str. Ankara 7, tel. (+4) 0746 22 24
44, www.doncafe-brasserie.ro. Open 08:30 - 24:00, Also
at Str. Erou Iancu Nicolae Nr. 41 Bis. . PLSW
GARGANTUA Bright and airy place that gloriously lets
the light in through its huge windows. Fine food, including a luscious fried brie with onion marmelade, an outstanding chicken and artichoke salad, a couple of duck
dishes and good steaks. Prices are more than fair given the
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August - September 2015

23

Restaurants
CASA DI DAVID
You can say what you like about this legendary, high-class
place (and most people in Bucharest have some kind of
opinion), but to us it remains a very nice place to spend
the evening. The food is ristorante Italian with a twist
(the duck breast with citrus fruits is our pick of the current
menu) and outstandingly good, with enough fish dishes
to make it appealing to sea food lovers. Staff are good and
the wine list a cracker.QB1, Sos. Nordului 7-9, tel. (+4)
021 232 47 15/(+4) 0722 26 93 60, www.casadidavid.ro.
Open 12:30 - 23:30. . PLSW

location, setting and quality of food. Find it on the corner

of Stradas Calderon and Verona.QC5, Str. J.L. Calderon
69, tel. (+4) 0726 55 56 93, www.restaurantgargantua.
ro. Open 09:00 - 24:00. . PVBSW
UPTOWN BAR & GRILL Uptown indeed. In the
wealthiest part of the wealthiest part of the city, the citys
wealthiest people come here to eat. The real draw is the
enclosed terrace which means you can eat al fresco even
when its raining outside. The food is good, a mix of Italianesque and modern European dishes, which share a menu
with an excellent wine list. Prices not cheap but value for
money very high. Make sure you reserve well in advance
or turn up with a local celebrity if you want a table on the
terrace.QB3, Str. Rabat 2, tel. (+4) 021 231 40 77, www.
uptown.ro. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. .
PLBSW

ITALIAN
ALT SHIFT When you walk in you immediately see why
this place is the current choice of many designers and arty
types: the interior is as contemporary as it gets, the high
ceilings giving the place the feel of a New York loft. The
food is much like the place itself: contemporary with a
traditional twist, and with plenty for vegetarians to enjoy.
Found above our favourite Bucharest club, Control, the
place stays open - with a limited menu - into the early
hours on club nights for those hungry clubbers looking
for snacks.QC5, Str. Constantin Mille 4, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 0372 98 02 25/(+4) 0727 31 62 45, www.altshift.
ro. Open 12:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00, Sun 12:00 03:00. . PBW

GRANO An Italian the likes of which many of the other

so-called Italian restaurants in Bucharest can only dream
of becoming. Serving simple yet delicious food - such
as the saffron risotto - that will have you telling all your
friends to come here, you can also buy many of the special
ingredients they use in their little shop. Oh, and did we
mention the chocolate cake?QC3, Str. Putul lui Zamfir
40, tel. (+4) 0743 03 50 74/(+4) 021 231 23 86, www.
grano.ro. Open Mon 12:00 - 23:00, Tue 09:30 - 23:00,
Sun 10:00 - 23:00. . PBSW
MODIGLIANI PASTA/CARNE
Amazingly good Italian restaurant which simply knocks
our socks off every time we come. Boasting new chef Cristian Marino in the kitchen, there is a new menu too and the
place is quite simply better than ever: the InterContinental
is one of very few hotels in Bucharest which really does go
the extra mile to make sure that us diners are kept happy.
All the pasta here is made fresh, the meat is the finest Argentine and Scottish beef or New Zealand lamb, the giant
prawns come from Indonesia and the wine is a selection
of the best the world has to offer. There is usually a pianist
too. We love the place.QC5, Str. Batistei 9 (InterContinental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0730 64 48 06, www.
restaurantmodigliani.com. Open 18:00 - 23:00. Closed
Sun. . PLBW
ROBERTOS & LA STRADA
A fabulous place. Boasting an open kitchen, three distinct
dining areas and a private dining room, Robertos also has
a fantastic chef: Marco Magri. The food is classical, with the

CAFFE CITTA Styled as a Northern Italian city centre

cafe/bistro the emphasis here is on good, simple, urban
food. Try the risotto with saffron, the saltim bocca and the
tiramisu: all signature dishes and all done to perfection.
The drinks menu is a bit special: go for the apple mojito (as
delicious as it sounds) or try any number of great wines, all
available by the glass. Keep the kids happy with the freshly
made ice cream.QB4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson
Blu), tel. (+4) 021 601 34 36, www.caffe-citta.ro. Open
11:00 - 23:30. . PLGBW
24 Bucharest In Your Pocket

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Restaurants
menu boasting the best dishes from a number of Italian regions. Its not cheap, but prices reflect the high quality, and
note that the lunchtime set menu is in fact very competitively priced. In a nutshell, its worth every penny: this is one
of the top five restaurants in the land, and the new Sunday
Brunch complete with lobster Thermidor and New Zealand
lamb is top notch. During summer, the La Strada terrace
outside is another Hilton legend that should be on the
to-do list of all visitors.QC5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee
Palace Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77. Open 06:30 - 10:00,
12:00 - 23:00. Sunday brunch 12:00-16:00, 185 lei per person, children (over six) 92 lei. . PTGSW
TRATTORIA DON VITO RISTORANTE
They get a lot right here, not least the bean soup that is
a meal in itself. Excellent salads, and the seafood-packed
signature Don Vito pasta was memorable. There is pizza
too, the sweets are delicious and the place itself is decked
out well without ever overdoing it. Well worth a look. Note
that downstairs is a totally non-smoking section. Commendable.QC4, Str. Mendeleev 1, MPiata Romana,
tel. (+4) 0735 33 30 21, www.trattoriadonvito.ro. Open
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. . PSW

JAPANESE
EDO SUSHI In the courtyard of a splendid 1930s Calea
Victoriei building is this excellent sushi restaurant which is
as good as any to open in Bucharest, ever. A full range of
sushi (maki, gunkan, nigiri and tamaki) is on offer, as well
as lots of sashimi, some very tasty (and spicy) soups and
even salad. And all at prices which are far below a couple
of other sushi places in town we could mention. Indeed,
the set menus - including the 29 lei lunch - are bargains.
The also do home delivery and take-away.QB5, Calea
Victoriei 122, tel. (+4) 0735 11 10 01, www.edo-sushi.ro.
Open 13:00 - 24:00. . PVGSW
YOSHI Sushi and teppanyaki - and more besides - at the
best Japanese restaurant to open in Bucharest for some
time. Located in upmarket Dorobanti it is not cheap (good
Japanese food rarely is) but it is very good and the setmenu at lunchtime is excellent value. The place itself is
spacious and very contemporary, and the perfect setting
for a meal of this quality.QC3, Str. Banul Antonache 4044, tel. (+4) 0749 97 95 21, www.restaurantyoshi.ro.
Open 12:00 - 00:00. . PVSW
ZEN SUSHI Sushi - and then some. There is sushi nigiri,
sashimi, maki and temaki: all of which is excellent and relatively well-priced. There are various set menus at a wide
range of prices and genuinely something for all pockets,
not least the sashimi menu for two which is a bargain at
120 lei. There is a full teppanyaki menu too, and unlike
certain other Japanese restaurants in Bucharest we could
mention the food at this elegant place does not cost a
fortune.QC3, Str. George Calinescu 15, tel. (+4) 0722 16
17 18/(+4) 0735 93 69 36, www.zensushi.ro. Open 12:00
- 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:30, Also at (B-4) Str. Grigore Alexfacebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

August - September 2015

25

Restaurants

andrescu 56, tel. (+4) 0752 02 25 94, (+4) 0721 75 54 55,

(C-7) Str. Calea Serban Voda 86, tel. (+4) 0722 96 16 43,
(+4) 0767 23 20 94. . PVBSW

(+4) 0722 21 66 66, www.four-seasons.ro. Open 12:00

- 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00, Also at (C-4) Str. Vasile Lascar
81, tel. (+40) 21 212 29 92. . PBSW

KOREAN

MEDIEVAL

RESTAURANT SEOUL
It has been a long, long time since Bucharest had a Korean
restaurant worth the name, so it was with a heightened
sense of anticipation that we headed off to Seoul. We were
not disappointed. Everything on the menu is the real deal,
from the spicy kimchi soups - made with all the right ingredients, shipped in especially - to the chicken, pork, beef
and sea food dishes of which, for us, the Ojing-uh pokum
stood out as genuinely superb. They even have a range of
Korean drinks, including Hite beer. Worth a visit.QA2, Str.
Aviator Mircea Zorileanu 89, tel. (+4) 021 667 21 19/(+4)
0725 49 83 66, www.restaurantkorean.ro. Open 12:00 22:30, Sun 14:00 - 22.30. . PLXSW

CRAMA TEMPLIERILOR
A medieval extravanganza of a restaurant where you can
sit at wooden tables - including a round one, just like King
Arthur - and tuck into massive portions of all your medieval
favourites, from pork knuckles to home-made sausages
and juicy steaks. There is live music most nights from a
top taraf band, and its very difficult not to have a good
time here. Groups especially will love it, and your kids will
too.QB5, B-dul Mihail Kogalniceanu 3, tel. (+4) 021 311
63 60/(+4) 0725 73 93 98, www.cramatemplierilor.ro.
Open 12:00 - 02:00. . PVESW

LEBANESE

JOSEPH BY JOSEPH HADAD

Looking for gems such as a homemade ravioli with fillet
of sea bass? Then get yourself here. This is an outstanding
place in every way: not only is the food sensational - the
menu is mainly Mediterranean but there is more than a
hint of France too - but the villa in which it is served is
also something of a Bucharest treasure. In brief, this is as
good as modern, contemporary dining gets in this city
and a visit here is worth every penny (speaking of which,
the set two-course lunch is a bargain).QB2, Str. Prof. Dr.
Ioan Cantacuzino 8, MAviatorilor, tel. (+4) 0753 99 93
33, info@josephrestaurant.ro, www.josephrestaurant.
ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PLBSW

CHEZ TONI Terrific Lebanese food in the leafy, awayfrom-it-all setting of the Pescariu Tennis and Sports Club.
All your Middle Eastern favourites are here, from Antaki,
Adana and Beiti kebabs to sujuk (those tangy, spicy little
sausages) and simple yet perfectly grilled sea bass (and a
ton of other fresh fish). Everything is cooked by the resident Lebanese chef.QC2, Str. Glodeni 3, tel. (+4) 021 242
02 04/(+4) 0740 00 78 78, www.cheztoni.ro. Open 12:00
- 24:00. . PLBSW
FOUR SEASONS DOROBANTI
From the same people who have long been serving
some of the best Lebanese food in the city at their Vasile
Lascar location comes Four Seasons Dorobanti, a more
upmarket place to indulge yourself. The food is fabulous
and features the full range of Lebanese food, including
the best selection of mezze in the city. There are grilled
meats and fish too, while vegetarians will also find plenty
to tempt them with. Make sure you try the superb Lebanese yoghurt - made with mint and garlic - and the amazing homemade lemonade. Nice terrace in the summer.
QB3, Calea Dorobantilor 177, tel. (+4) 021 233 94 31/
26 Bucharest In Your Pocket

MEDITERRANEAN

TAPO Something different, and well worth the taxi ride

from the city centre, this is a late-night, clubby restaurant
for the citys most happening people, where you come to
eat and end up staying for something of a party well into
the early hours (it is in the same complex as Barletto). As
such, the place could probably serve up a load of old tosh
and still be popular: fortunately, with Florin Dumitrescu
in the kitchen (one of Romanias best-known chefs) you
can rest assured the amazing food - and the rather special
wine list - warrants a visit all on its own.QD2, Str. Oltetubucharest.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

lui 30, tel. (+4) 0747 08 30 83, www.tapo.ro. Open 11:30

- 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. .
PLBW

MODERN EUROPEAN
CAFE ATHENEE We love it. This is Bucharests village
pub, where the city comes to meet and have a terrific
breakfast, lunch or early dinner. The new breakfast menu
offers something for everyone, from a full English to nasi
goreng, while the legendary Hilton burger - perhaps the
first gourmet burger ever in Bucharest - remains one of the
best in the city. There is also a bites menu of substantial
finger food for executive snacking, and a bigger, wider
range of beers, wines and cocktails then ever, which is
why it is now as popular as an after-work venue as it is at
lunchtime.QC5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77, www.hiltonbucharest.com.
Open 08:00-20:00. . PESW
PRIME STEAKS & SEAFOOD
Boasting a menu put together by Executive Chef Bernd
Kirsch, who has been in charge of the kitchen here since
Prime opened more than six years ago, what is perhaps
Bucharests best restaurant recently got better. Now serving the finest fillet steak in the world (the Irish Hereford
Prime - which we can tell you, as we have eaten it, is amazing), we can also recommend the duet of foie gras with
raspberry mousse and caremelized pineapple, the grilled
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scallops and the lobster bisque. And just about everything

else. Its genuinely amazing this place, and worth every
last penny.QB4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu),
tel. (+4) 021 311 90 00, www.tasteofblu.ro. Open 12:3015.00, 18.00-23.00, Sat 18:00-23:00. Closed Sun. Note
that although Prime is closed on Sundays, the Radisson
does offer a magnificent Sunday Brunch around its outside swimming pool from 210-240 lei per person. The
price includes use of the pool. . PLG
STADIO What started life as a sports bar is now rather delightful contemporary Italian-inspired restaurant, whose
interior design is amongst the most avant garde in the city.
We loved the old kitchen appliances and Warhol-esque
soup cans on the walls, and the various different dining
areas, not least of which is the huge central atrium. The
food is worthy the location and design: good and often
quite inventive: the cream of pea soup with crispy bacon
was a treat, and we were also rather delighted to discover
a Salmon burger on the menu. There is still a connection
to the old Stadio in the form of the football tables. We
like the place a lot and think you will too.QC5, Str. Ion
Campineanu 11, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 312 24 92,
www.stadio.ro. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
. PVNBSW

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Restaurants
LUNCH & EARLY EVENING
BE NAT
Light and spacious diner overlooking Piata Victoriei
serving excellent value hot lunches, salads, tea, coffee and cakes. Look out for the daily specials, while - if
they have it - the gazpacho is as good as any in the
city. Sit upstairs for the best views of the street below.
QA-4, B-dul Nicolae Titulescu 4-8, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 031 437 96 03/(+4) 031 437 96 01, www.
benat.ro. Open 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun. .
PVGSW

ROMANIAN
BISTRO LA TAIFAS La Taifas means having a chat and
thats exactly what you and your friends will feel like doing
at this tres jolie venue. We remain convinced that the original venue behind the Hilton on Str. Episcopiei was better,
but this latest location is more spacious, and hosts more
regular musical soirees. The food is great, and booking is
still essential, especially if you want to sit on the terrace
in good weather.QB4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 16, tel. (+4)
021 212 77 88, www.bistrotaifas.ro. Open 12:00 - 01:00.
. PLESW
CASA DOINA Alma mater of Romanian restaurants, an
integral part of the citys rich tapestry. This classy place
pulls in the cream of Bucharest society, served by charming, splendid waiters in smart dress. The food is superb,
and in a city where standards rise only to fall so often, Casa
Doina can be considered a paragon of consistency. The location is worthy of the food, on posh Soseaua Kiseleff in a
quiet, leafy setting. The splendid terrace is a joy when the
weather allows.QB3, Sos. Kiseleff 4, tel. (+4) 021 222 67
17/(+4) 0745 00 90 09, www.casadoina.ro. Open 11:00 01:00. . PLEBSW
COANA MITA Just behind the InterContinental this new
Romanian restaurant boasts one of the biggest and finest
terraces in the city centre. The food is terrific value local
fare: big racks of ribs, mici and loads besides - including
great homemade fries, seafood and a fine range of wine
for all budgets. Often has some live entertainment, and
for the quality and location prices are good - theres an
outstanding value set-lunch menu. If it rains head inside
and downstairs to the large cellar.QC5, Str. Batistei 14,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 031 425 15 35/(+4) 0756 71
76 49, www.coanamitza.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. .
PLESW
CORSO BRASSERIE & TERRACE
We brought our mother-in-law here recently to try out the
sarmale, and after careful consideration she admitted that
they were even better than her own: now thats high praise
indeed. In a top location in the InterContinental, overlooking Bulevardul Magheru, if this place doesnt occupy the
28 Bucharest In Your Pocket

BOUTIQUE DU PAIN
Everything you want from a city-centre eatery and a
lot more. This is in fact more bistro than anything, serving breakfast, lunch and evening meals in fresh, bright
surroundings. The selection of morning pastries is the
best in the city, with office workers going out of their
way to stop here for fresh supplies. For lunch there is a
range of sandwiches hard to beat anywhere else, and
the small selection of hot meals of an evening - the
menu changes daily - are perfect for a casual dinner.
Serving great coffee and a magnificent hot chocolate,
we (and our kids!) love this place.QC-5, Str. Academiei 28-30, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0728 44 33 00,
www.boutiquedupain.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00,
Sun 09:00 - 20:00. . PSW
FRATELLINI
Breakfast, brunch and early evening meals. Likely
to win as many awards for design as for food this is
the best place to open in Bucharest this summer. Attracting a crowd of the rich and successful it is not for
everyone (prices are high) but the quiet, lakeside location is amazing and the place warrants a visit from
anyone fed up with the chaos of the Old Town and
the dust of the city centre. Expect first class modern
European food and a wide range of well-made drinks,
from smoothies to cocktails. The aprons are suitably
efficient.QC-2, Str. Gheorghe Titeica 212-214, tel.
(+4) 0733 22 92 29, www.fratellini.ro. Open 08:00 20:00. . PLGBSW
OMNIVORES DILEMMA
Tiny place serving perhaps the best cooked lunch in
central Bucharest. There are just a few dishes to choose
from each day: ask the staff whats good, hand over a
pittance and try and bag a seat at one of the tables
(there are only three or four). You can take away if there
is no space. The kind of place Bucharest needs loads
more of.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 214, MPiata Victoriei,
tel. (+4) 021 212 56 66, www.omnivores.ro. Open
08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. . PVGB
SW
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Restaurants

very best people-watching spot in the whole of the city,

then we dont know where does. Open for breakfast, lunch
(usually an excellent value buffet) and dinner, it is seriously
good.QC5, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu 4 (InterContinental),
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 20 20. Open 06:30 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 06:30 - 11:30, 12:00 - 23:00, Sun
06:30 - 11:00. 12:00 - 23:00. . PTLEGBW
GOOD OLD TIMES (GOLDEN TULIP TIMES HOTEL) A very good restaurant indeed. Featuring a very
wide range of Romanian and international dishes, the
menu here changes regularly, usually in time with the seasons. Of the perennials, the lamb chops encrusted with a
mix of herbs and served with minted peas are fabulous.
The young chef is not afraid to try something new and
different, and note that if you fancy something which is
not on the menu, dont be afraid to ask. Good local wine
list, and they even run cooking classes if you want to learn
even more about local food. Note the last kitchen order
is at 22:30.QE6, B-dul Decebal 19, MPiata Muncii,
tel. (+4) 021 316 65 16, www.restauranttimes.ro. Open
12:00 - 23:00. . PLGSW

they are great cooks. Seriously: only in two or three other

places in Bucharest will you find carnati de oaie (mutton
sausages) or a bors de peste as good as there. If you are
feeling really hungry go for the platou mioritic: a huge
plate of meaty treats. They serve their own beer, which is
highly drinkable and a bargain at 7.90 lei per pint.QB6,
Str. Poenaru Bordea 2, tel. (+4) 021 336 80 09, www.
hanuberarilor.ro. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 02:00. . PEBSW
LOCANTA JARISTEA
This is that rarity in Bucharest (and indeed Romania): an
upmarket Romanian restaurant. The surroundings, location, exquisitely decorated dining rooms, service and
choice of high quality food will convince you of that. This

HANU BERARILOR CASA ELENA LUPESCU

Offering much the same as the other Hanul Berarilor
closer to the city centre this place (run by the same group,
who also look after Caru cu bere) is located in a house
that was once the property of Elena Lupescu, mistress of
Romanias controversial King Carol II. Huge, set over two
levels, the house is surrounded by a large courtyard and
garden, which is superb in the right weather. Pick of the
serviecable menu is unquestionably the Ciolan la protap: an enormous, slowly roasted pork knuckle served
with sauerkraut and mamaliga; its big enough for two to
share. They serve their own beer, which is highly drinkable
and a bargain at 7.90 lei per pint.QD5, Str. Pache Protopopescu 51, tel. (+4) 0725 00 80 05, www.citygrill.ro/
home-hanu-berarilor. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00
- 02:00. . PEBSW
HANU BERARILOR CASA SOARE Housed in the former Casa Bucur (a place you could write a book about) it is
a very good Romanian restaurant serving the kind of food
you only usually get in peoples homes - and only then if
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August - September 2015

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Restaurants
is one of very few places in Romania where you can enjoy an entire suckling pig (though note that you will need
to phone ahead and ask them to start preparing it a day
in advance) and sample some of the best vintage wines
Romania has ever produced.QB6, Str. George Georgescu 50-52, tel. (+4) 021 335 33 38/(+4) 0721 96 19 36,
stabiliment@jaristea.ro, www.jaristea.ro. Open 11:00 24:00. . PLESW
NICORESTI
Maybe we have been harsh in the past with our reviews
of Nicoresti. It is, after all, one of the most celebrated Romanian restaurants in the city, and given that the service always our biggest problem with the place - has improved
no end of late, we think it is about time we give it another
chance. We suggest you do the same, for the food has always been very good. The ciolan de porc (pork knuckle)
with beans is legendary: ask anyone in the city!QC5,
Str. Maria Rosetti 40, tel. (+4) 021 211 24 80, www.
restaurantnicoresti.ro. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 23:00. . PSW
ROSSETYA Rossetya is a restaurant which tries harder
than most to take Romanian cuisine to new levels. As such,
this is as upmarket as Romanian food can get, and the beef
dishes here are especially good. Try the sote de vacuta
aromat cu cognac: tender beef sauteed in cognac with
mushrooms and tomatoes. Also worth trying is the iahnie
de fasole: a Romanian bean stew that packs something of
a kick and proof that Romanian does do vegetarian food.
QC5, Str. Dimitrie Bolintineanu 9, MUniversitate, tel.
(+4) 031 805 91 99/(+4) 0748 22 02 20, www.rossetya.
ro. Open 11:00 - 23:30, Closed until 17 August. .
PSW
VATRA RESTAURANT We have been eating here for
years and we cant recommend the place highly enough.
You really will have go a long way to find better value Romanian food than this. A brilliant, well-priced restaurant
close to Old Town and very close to Cismigiu Park, expect
big portions of tasty local dishes. Great ciorbas, terrific
mici and a decent pint of beer to wash it all down with.
QB5, Str. Ion Brezoianu 19, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
021 315 83 75/(+4) 0721 20 08 00, www.vatra.ro. Open
12:00 - 24:00. . PLBSW

SEAFOOD
CHERHANAUA ANCORA
Cherhana in Romanian means fishery, so you will already
know what to expect here: fine fish and seafood. The
interior is rather special: bright and contemporary, with
more than a hint of local flavour. In a city now boasting
more than a few seriously good interiors, this is up with
the best of them. The food is very good too, from simple
yet brilliantly executed local fish dishes (hamsii, carp and
pike) to more exotic fish shipped in direct from the Mediterranean and beyond: sea bass, prawns, fresh tuna and
much more. We should add that there are some fine meat
30 Bucharest In Your Pocket

choices for those who are not fish fans. Desserts as good
as everything else. Prices high.QB1, Sos. Nordului 7-9,
tel. (+4) 0721 33 55 55/(+4) 0724 33 22 33, www.ancoracherhana.ro. Open 12:00-24:00. . PLSW
LE OAC OAC
Opposite Casa Poporului this is the perfect spot for lunch
after a busy morning pounding the floors of Romanias
largest building. Offering a tasty range of fresh seafood
featuring fresh mussels, crab, whelks, squid and lobster
there is also a great breakfast selection, big subs and
salads and tasty fish soups. The place itself is bright and
colourful and has a nice leafy terrace when the weather
is good. Well worth trying, prices are more than decent.
QB6, B-dul Libertatii 20, MIzvor, tel. (+4) 0747 86 11
51, www.leoacoac.ro. Open 10:00 - 24:00. . PV
EBSW
PESCARUS
The City Grill boys have done it again. Having previously
transformed Caru cu bere from a disaster into a decent
restaurant they have done the same with Pescarus, an
iconic fish restaurant on the shore of lake Herastrau. Big
money has been spent making the place look fantastic,
and the menu is a superb mix of local and imported fish
and seafood. As with all City Grill venues, prices are kept
as reasonable as possible, and given that this is one of the
locations of any restaurant in the city, we expect it to be
a hit.QB2, B-dul Aviatorilor 1, tel. (+4) 0737 99 90 69,
www.restaurantpescarus.ro. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 10:00 - 02:00. . PEGBSW

PRICE GUIDE
Each of the restaurants featured in this edition of Bucharest In Your Pocket includes a rough guide as to how much
you should approximately expect to pay for a three-course
meal, with a decent local wine (if applicable):

- Under 10 per person

- 10-20 per person
- 20-30 per person
- Over 30 per person
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Restaurants
SLOW FOOD
BEAUTYFOOD
Love it. Another brilliant little Slow Food venue pops
up in Bucharest, this time on the site of the old Violetas. Check the blackboard for whats on the menu - if
they have it we can recommend the burger with the
home fries. Always has a good lunchtime deal on: two
delicious courses usually priced around 20 lei.QC5,
Str. Jean Louis Calderon 34, tel. (+4) 0759 03 06 09,
www.beauty-food.ro. Open 9:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. .
BECAS KITCHEN
Following much the same path as that trodden by
Violetas Vintage Kitchen, this restaurant is a magnificent place serving wonderful, home-cooked food. The
place itself is gorgeously simple in its decor, at once
homely and welcoming. The food is fantastic, with
the menu changing more or less every day: check
the blackboard for todays specials. You can also buy
homemade jams, pickles and the like. Terrific.QC4,
Str. Mihai Eminescu 80, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4)
0722 30 89 60, www.becaskitchen.ro. Open 18:00
- 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. .
PGSW
METUKA
Slow Food in every sense of the phrase: the food is
seasonal, all prepared fresh, and made from locallysourced ingredients. It also comes at a fair price: both
to you and to the suppliers. The menu changes every
day, but there is always a good choice for either lunch
or dinner (soups, finger food and more substantial
dishes), as well as some terrific desserts. Well worth
a visit.QB4, B-dul Lascar Catargiu 7, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 311 40 48/(+4) 0740 05 55 49,
www.metuka.ro. Open 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.
. PVBSW
THE LONDON STREET ATELIER
What you have here is outstanding homemade food
served with a smile in a splendid setting. The wonderfully inventive menu (which changes often) is packed
with tasty treats (Stilton pate is one, while the shepherds pie is an absolute must) and nothing costs as
much as it really ought to. This is fine food at half the
price of elsewhere. The cook and owner is usually
around to add a personal tip or two, or hand out something new she has just come up with in the kitchen.
There is an amazing wine list (and wine tasting evenings), there are a few English beers, a Romanian craft
beer and you can enjoy it all on a lovely terrace. Go
there: go there now!QC3, Str. Putul Lui Zamfir 15,
tel. (+4) 0736 93 35 31, www.thelondonstreetatelier.
com. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. .
PVGBW
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August - September 2015

31

Restaurants
STEAK HOUSES

TURKISH

OSHO Sometimes when writing a review, all you really

want to write is this place is brilliant. This is a butchers
shop and restaurant serving T-bone steaks you would
scream for in the dark. There is more than steak on the
menu though, such as a top burger (which comes in three
sizes), tangy lamb chops and an outstanding selection of
fresh fish. Plus, theres a kids menu. We also have to admit to being pleasantly surprised about the prices: given
the location (this is Beverly Hills, Bucharest) they are more
than reasonable considering you get the best of the best.
Packed at lunchtime.QB2, B-dul Primaverii 19-21, MAviatorilor, tel. (+4) 021 568 30 31/(+4) 021 568 30 32,
www.osho-restaurant.ro. Open 10:30 - 23:00, Sat 10:00
- 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. . PTVBSW

DIVAN
From the Middle Eastern atmosphere and superb decor
to the great service, Divan is a lesson in creating a good
restaurant. The well-priced food is good value Turkish/
Middle Eastern, and its very good indeed. They will even
cook you a whole lamb if you give them 24 hours notice.
We opted for the less Sultan-like beef and lamb kebabs.
Very good they were too. After your meal you can enjoy a
smoke on a hookah pipe: theres a huge range of flavours
to choose from.QC2, Calea Floreasca 111-113, tel. (+4)
021 539 19 19, www.thedivan.ro. Open 10:00 - 02:00.
. PBSW

ROYAL STEAK For once, a place claiming to be something unique in Romania actually delivers: this is certainly
a first as far as our experience goes. The meat and seafood
here (and it is all of the finest quality, shipped in from Argentina and around the world) is cooked on hot stones,
which are brought to your table (with three magnificent
sauces) so that you can cook it as much (or as little) as you
like. If you dont fancy doing it yourself the staff are on
hand to help out. The place itself is classy: smart without
overdoing it, and is perfect for a treat. Note that you can
also buy steaks here to cook at home.QC4, Piata Romana 8, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0751 18 21 10, office@.
royalsteak.ro, www.royalsteak.ro. Open 12:00-23:45.
. PLBSW

RESTAURANT MADAME POGANY Fine, upmarket

yet effortlessly casual restaurant of the new school in
Floreasca/Dorobanti. The spacious, modern, well-lit dining room gives you a real sense of grandeur without ever
becoming kitsch: a trick few restaurants have managed
to genuinely pull off in Bucharest. There is little point
telling you about the food as the menu changes almost
daily: what we can say with certainty is that whatever
you order you are likely to be happy with it.QC3, Str.
Banu Antonache 40-44, tel. (+4) 0744 10 56 13, www.
madamepogany.ro. Open 09:00 - 00:00, Sat 11:00 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 00:00. . PLBSW

VACAMUUU Currently the most talked-about chophouse in the city. Serving a range of steaks so wide and so
good that even the most jaded of beefeaters will be drooling, you can also feast on lamb, veal and pork chops, while
the burgers are a match for anywhere else. There is a kids
menu, and the weekend all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet
is top value. Most of the meat can be bought to take home
and cook yourself should you wish, and then theres the
wine list: a surprise we will let you discover yourself when
you come here.QC3, Calea Floreasca 111, tel. (+4) 0731
35 11 35, www.vacamuuu.com. Open 09:00 - 23:30.
. PTSW

BARCA Vegan and raw vegan food like youve never

tasted. So good in fact that even the most fervent meat
eaters will leave happy. There is a wide range of soups (the
coconut soup being our favourite) as well as pasta and salad. Of the main meals the lentil risotto with avocado was
fabulous, and the desserts are an inventive treat. Barca will
deliver - to home or office - and many of the ingredients
can be bought should you wish to try cooking some of
this stuff at home. Closes early.QB3, Str. Emanoil Porumbaru 9, MAviatorilor, tel. (+4) 0720 92 82 78/(+4) 0747
59 47 18, www.restaurantbarca.ro. Open 12:00 - 21:00.
Closed Sun. . PVBSW

32 Bucharest In Your Pocket

URBAN CONTEMPORARY

VEGAN

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Cafs

ALANDALA CAFE Quite possibly the most colourful

venue in Bucharest. A cafe, bar, art gallery and live music
venue, Alandala attracts a grown-up, Bohemian crowd keen
to rediscover their inner child. You can take part in all sorts
here, from impromptu poetry sessions to singing lessons.
There is good vegetarian food served from 12:00-16:00
during the week, and the only black mark we give them is
for allowing smoking: you would expect a place like this to
be setting a better example. There is outside seating though
in the summer if you do want fresh air.QC-4, Str. Aurel
Vlaicu 70, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0740 47 19 01, www.
alandalacafe.wordpress.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00
- 02:00, Sat 14:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. ENBW
NEW
ANA PAN/ANA BAKING CO. To call this amazing place
a cafe is to do it no justice at all: it is far more. Open all
day for breakfast, lunch and dinner expect to find fine
pastries - all made on the premises - as well as terrific light
meals, soups, quiches and the like alongside smoothies,
gelato artisanale and great coffee. There are also plenty
of traditional Romanian treats, from Marisa rolls to
homemade sweets and cakes. The place itself is bright,
contemporary and staffed by a friendly bunch.QC3,
Calea Dorobanti 134, tel. (+4) 0730 015 976, www.
anapan.ro. Open 07:30 - 21:00, Also at (A-7) Calea 13
Septembrie 107-109, tel. (+4) 021.411.01.13 Open 07:30
- 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00, (C-6) B-dul.Corneliu Coposu
5-11, tel. (+4) 021.326.44.90 Open 07:30 - 20:00, Sun
09:00 - 15:00. LEB
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BOHEMIA TEA HOUSE We rarely use the word cool,

but few others do justice to this rather unqiue tea house.
Colourful and not a little bizarre, the loft here - packed
with cushions and soft furnishings just right for crashing
on - is a great place to spend an afternoon. As the weather
warms up, the shady courtyard is a welcome retreat from
the heat. Serves a massive range of exotic tea, and its nonsmoking.QB-5, Str. Poiana Narciselor 1, tel. (+4) 0727
33 36 31, www.bohemiatea.ro. Open 12:00 - 23:00.
PGBW
CAFE & GRADINA VERONA Sublime. At the brilliant Carturesti bookshop is this delightful place serving coffee, teas,
cocktails, beer and a vast range of fabulous lemonade. There
is also good food, both from an a la carte menu as well as terrific value set lunch deals. We should point out that they have
one of the best selections of vegan dishes in the city (including delicious vegetable noodles, a good korma and decent
humus). Service is always great from the top staff, and there
is often a cultural event happening (including occasional live
music). Given how popular the place is (particularly the amazing garden/courtyard in warmer weather) we suggest making
a reservation if you want a table.QC-5, Str. Pictor Arthur Verona 13-15, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0732 00 30 60. Open
09:00 - 24:00. PEBSW
CAFE TIMES Serves one of the best breakfasts in Bucharest, and plenty more besides. There is top coffee and a cando attitude from the staff who appear to realise that sometimes people are busy, and need their fix double quick. Not
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Cafs

every cafe in Bucharest does realise that... Having said that,

this is the kind of laid-back place that you end up spending the whole afternoon in, no matter how busy you are,
not least as the chef, Constantin Ianculescu, has a number
of treats waiting on his new menu.QE-6, B-dul Decebal 19,
MPiata Muncii, tel. (+4) 031 224 80 16, www.cafetimes.
ro. Open 07:30 - 24:00. PLESW

resemble an upmarket diner: there is something for everyone. Coffee (their own blend), a craft beer and wine by the
glass, alongside light meals and desserts. All very nice, all
very chic and all very popular: at weekends the place is
full. Worth your time.QC-5, Str. Mendeleev 2, MPiata
Romana, tel. (+4) 031 410 00 10. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 23:00. PGBW

CAMERA DIN FATA One of the best cafes to open in Bucharest for years. The name means Front room, and being
here is in many ways just like being somebodys front room.
Great coffee and tea served in great mugs from gorgeous
tea pots at tables which fill up early as the world pops in
for espresso on its way to work. Theres wine, and cocktails,
too, and many people will insist the place is even better
in the evening, not least because its fully non-smoking.
QC-4, Str. Mendeleev 22, tel. (+4) 021 311 15 12, www.
cameradinfata.ro. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri 08:00 - 23:00,
Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. PGBSW

ORIGO A contender for the title of best coffee shop in

Bucharest. This place is all about great coffee from all over
the world, as well as a fairly decent selection of tea too.
Many of the more exotic coffees can be bought by the
packet to make at home, and the design of the place is
not too shabby either: the coffee cups hanging down over
the bar are a nice touch. Theres relaxing music, cocktails
and inside it is totally non-smoking.QC6, Str. Lipscani 9,
tel. (+4) 0757 08 66 89. Open 07:30 - 02:00, Sat 09:00 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. PGBSW

GRADINA OAR A semi-secret hideaway of a garden

serving coffee, tea, lemonade and cocktails to a wonderful crowd that simply wants to relax with good friends
and listen to mellow music in gorgeous surroundings. A
gem of a place that should be stuffed and preserved for all
time. Alas the weather means it closes at the end of summer until next year.QC5, Str. Arthur Verona 19, MPiata
Romana, tel. (+4) 021 650 20 20, www.gradina-oar.ro.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. NBSW
FRUDISIAC Minimalist yet strikingly designed, this is a cafe,
juice bar and breakfast/brunch venue all in one. Exceedingly
laid back, it serves the best hot chocolate in town alongside
a wide range of juices, smoothies and some excellent light
meals, it has become an instant hit with those people lucky
enough to get a seat. Fortunately, good weather heralds the
opening of the courtyard, which will see the capacity treble.
A little piece of Sweden in the middle of Dorobanti.QB-3, Str.
Intrarea Bitolia 4, tel. (+4) 021 231 04 11/(+4) 0730 64 19 43.
Open 08:00 - 20:00. PGW
M60 Elegant, contemporary cafe in an enviable city centre location. Eclectically furnished, parts of it feel like an
office, parts of it feel like your living room and other bits
34 Bucharest In Your Pocket

READERS CAFE This place is one of the great things

about the Metropolis Centre, of which the Starlight Suites and
Loft restaurant also form part. You will find Readers on the
ground floor, a modern, bright and well-lit space where
you can read, drink great coffee or eat - far better than you
would expect. The breakfast is terrific, the sandwiches tasty
and well-filled, the salads big and the pasta light. Live music
most evenings (early evening) and well separated smoking
and non-smoking sections. Nice.QB-4, Str. Grigore Alexandrescu 89-97, MStefan cel Mare, tel. (+4) 0737 32 33
77, www.readerscafe.ro. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 22:00. Closed Sun. PLEBSW
TUCANO COFFEE One of Bucharests most talked-about
cafes, not least for the fact that it serves amazing cheesecake
and its freshly roasted speciality Arabica coffee. This is much
more than a simple cafe however: it puts on all sorts events,
both for kids at the weekends and for us grown ups in the
evenings. It hosts yard sales, book clubs, workshops, music
evenings and film nights. Bohemian and non-conformist it
is Bucharest at its best. Oh, and we should add that it is nonsmoking. Hurrah! Find it next to the British Council.QC-4,
Calea Dorobantilor 18, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0769 27
15 52, www.tucanocoffee.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat,
Sun 09:00 - 23:00. PEGBSW
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Nightlife
BARS: COCKTAILS & QUIRKY
BAR A1 A little bit of everything in a very nice package.
Food (including breakfast), drink (the milkshakes are fab,
there is a range of rather unusual beers, while the wine
selection is better than your average wine bar) and cakes
that would shame most bakeries. The place itself is delightfully chic in that slightly shabby way, and the crowd
that meets here is equally relaxed. You will love the place.
QB-4, Str. Piata Amzei 1, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4)
0723 12 48 47. Open 8:00 - 01:30. PNS
TERASA MONTEORU Big, colourful and very popular terrace in the courtyard of the Casa Monteoru, one of
the most elegant 19th century houses in the entire city.
Well-hidden from the street (its around the back) this is
a genuine oasis of calm, cool and one of the most extensive drinks menus in the city. Attracts a crowd of all-sorts,
from families with kids (during the day at least) to trendies
and hipsters during the evening. Always has a great playlist music-wise, and at the weekends it stays open more
or less all night. Youll love it: this place is contemporary
Bucharest in microcosm.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 115, tel.
(+4) 0753 67 24 72. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00
- 04:00. BW

BARS: UPMARKET
E3 How popular is this place? Well, to give you an idea,
we know for a fact that if you do not make a reservation
on Friday or Saturday night it will require the personal intervention of the owner to get you a table: if youre lucky. If
Floreasca is the new throbbing heart of Bucharest nightlife,
this place is the throbbing heart of Floreasca. Serves simple
yet delicious modern European food (the E3 cheeseburger
is a winner) alongside a range of drinks as cool as the venue.
Top wine list, as you would expect. Not cheap, that is kind of
the point. Get there. C3, Calea Floreasca 111 - 113, tel. (+4)
0734 96 68 89, www.byentourage.ro. Open 12:00 - 01:00,
Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PBW
EDEN Boasting one of the best addresses in the city this
effortlessly middle class venue is perhaps the most popular place in Bucharest right now for arty types, fashion

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VICE ADVICE
For visitors to Bucharest looking for a little debauchery,
there are three options, of which - take note - only one
is legal.
The legal option (and the only option we would recommend) is to head for an erotic massage at a reputable
massage parlour. You will almost certainly not be offered
sex at these places, but there is still much fun to be had,
from happy ending massages to full body massage from
one, two or even three nubile young ladies. Prices start at
around 35 though climb higher at the more central, luxurious (and generally more trustwhorthy) establishments.
The second option is to simply go to a brothel. These
establishments usually advertise themselves as being legitimate strip clubs or nightclubs, but act mainly as fronts
for illegal brothels. The deal at these places is usually as
follows: after sitting yourself down at a table you will be
served expensive drinks, before being joined by some
young ladies who will try to convince you to buy them
cocktails (usually orange juice with an umbrella, costing a fortune). After half an hour of bored conversation
you may be asked if you would like to retreat to a more
intimate location, usually a room above, or even in, the
nightclub itself. Expect to pay a minimum of 100 for the
privilege, as well buy an obligatory bottle of sparkling
wine, which usually costs at least another 50. All this
on top of your already huge tab. We suggest avoiding
anywhere calling itself a nightclub and promising girls.
Be particularly circumspect in and around the Old Town.
The third option is to call one of the escorts who advertise in many of the poor quality city guides found around
town. This is completely illegal and you really ought to
think twice before picking up the phone.

people and general trendies. Situated in the grounds of

the early 19th-century Stirbei Palace this place is perhaps
a cafe, bar and late-night drinker. There is also often music,
either from a DJ or a local act. As such it does get very
clubby late on. Well worth your time, if only to see how the
Romanian other half live: prices are, accordingly, relatively
high, but still cheap by western European standards.QB4, Calea Victoriei 107, MPIata Romana, tel. (+4) 0726 57
78 98. Open 13:00 - 05:00. EB
ENGLISH BAR One of our regular haunts. This little
corner of the Hilton that will forever be associated with intrigue and spies (it has been around for nearly a century, as
long as the hotel) remains today a classy bar serving champagne by the glass and much else besides (including a tremendous pint of Guinness). Packed most days with business leaders it also regularly hosts sophisticated parties,
and on some Thursday nights this little bar becomes the
most happening venue in town, a favourite of Bucharests
fashionistas. Essential, get here now.QC-5, Str. Episcopiei
1-3 (Athenee Palace Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77 ext.
6759. Open 11:00 - 02:00. PLW
GRADINA FLOREASCA Swimming pool, terrace and bar
in Floreasca, and one of the most happening places to open
this summer. Coffee, cocktails and a decent range of food,
this place is popular with local fashionistas who love the relaxed, secluded atmosphere. Given the location and crowd
it attracts, prices are actually more than reasonable. Entry to
the pool is just 30 lei during the week, 60 lei at weekends
(you will need to make a reservation at the weekend if you
want a sunbed).QB2, Str. Mircea Eliade 16, MAviatorilor,
tel. (+4) 0740 25 03 60. Open 10:00 - 24:00. PBCW
INTERMEZZO PIANO BAR Legendary and rather historic hotel bar in the lobby of the Inter, which was a den
of iniquity and intrigue during the communist period,
all spies and journalists, plots and honey traps. Now its
merely a very cool place to meet and have a drink in superb surroundings. Another one of the many reasons why
the InterContinental is once again one of the top places in
Bucharest to spend time.QC-5, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu 4
(Hotel InterContinental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021
310 20 20. Open 08:00 - 01:00. PLEW

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WINE BAR
THE WINE BISTRO BY VINEXPERT Vinexpert has
been the leading Romanian wine dealer for years, its shops
stocking a range of both local and imported wine from
around the world. Since earlier this year its outlets have
been joined by this wine bar/bistro at the top end of historic Calea Victoriei, where you can sample a vast range of
wine (by the glass if you wish). Super-knowledgeable staff
will guide you around their vast selection - do not be afraid
to ask for help.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 155, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 0744 48 13 07/(+4) 031 405 19 19, www.
vinexpert.ro. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 22:00. PBW

PUBS
ENERGIEA
We like this place a lot: the high ceilings and big windows
make it a good choice day and night, the original (we
think?) tiled floor looks great and there are a number of different rooms, not all of which carry the industrial-chic look
of the main bar, good for get togethers with larger groups.
Best of all though we like the raised interior balcony, which
is top cocktail-sipping territory. Most nights you will need
a reservation.QB-6, Str. Brezoianu 4, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 0736 37 44 32, www.energiea.ro. Open 12:00 01:00. PLBSW
JAMES JOYCES PUB & TERRACE
Has long enjoyed one of the best locations on the city,
tucked away at one of the entrances to Cismigiu Park. Its
terrace is just about perfect, looking out to the park itself.
Though a pub first and foremost there is more here than
drink: the food menu is good, with a decent variety of salads and meaty treats. We can well recommend the burger,
while the ribs were good too, and we should give more
than a passing mention to the fish and chips: a commendable effort. Stays open late, with DJs at weekends.QB5,
Piata Walter Maracineanu 1-3, tel. (+4) 021 313 38 23,
www.jamesjoyce.ro. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sun 10:00
- 03:00. PW
PRIMUS Big pub that goes a long way towards convincing us that we do not need to go to Old Town to find a
decent drinker in Bucharest. From the very good attempt
at an English breakfast to a decent pint of both Guinness
and Kilkenny you can add their own beer, Primus, a decenttasting bargain. The huge windows make it feel much like
a street cafe.QB-5, Str. George Enescu 3, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0732 22 26 66, www.primuspub.ro. Open
09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00.
PBW
SHIFT Its doubtful that youve seen anything like this
place in Bucharest before. Shift is a Bohemian restaurant/
bar/club of some style. It is, in a word, gorgeous, and has
been packed since opening day with the hippest and
coolest people in the land. Late at night this is the smart38 Bucharest In Your Pocket

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est chill-out venue in the city, and we (and just about
everybody else) love it.QC4, Str. Eremia Grigorescu 17,
tel. (+4) 021 211 22 72, www.shiftpub.ro. Open 12:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PBSW
THE HARP IRISH PUB & RESTAURANT
The Harp is better than ever before. In fact, if you havent
been here for a while you might hardly recognise the
place. Set over two levels, with two great bars, the Guinness is as exemplary as ever, and the food is fabulous, a
cut above your usual pub grub and bordering on the outstanding. The enormous burger they have started serving
here might be a contender for the citys biggest. There is
live music some nights, and be warned: as big as this place
is it has become rather popular again. If you want a table
(especially at the weekend) make a reservation.QC6, Str.
Bibescu Voda 1, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0735 55 55 44,
www.theharp.ro. Open 10:00 - 02:00. PEBSW

BEERHALLS
BERARIA H
A former exhibition hall (one of many in Herastrau; this one
was known as Pavilion H) has been converted into what
the owners claim is the largest beerhall in eastern Europe.
Having seen the size of the place we are inclined to agree.
There are various areas in which you can enjoy your beer,
but its all a little too big: even so, if there is a popular band
on (there is lots of live music here at weekends) you may
have to queue to get in. The selection of draught beer was
a tad disappointing, although it does come at a decent
price. There is a decent range of food though, surprisingly
so.QA1, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 0725 34 53 45, www.
berariah.ro. Open 10:00 - 05:00. PESW
BERARIE GAMBRINUS
One of the most celebrated and historic pubs in Bucharest
- haunt, for decades, of Caragiale, Gica Petrescu and every
other local carouser - returns, this time as something of
a Heineken-pub. There is Romanian beer on tap though,
Gambrinus, Silva and Ciuc, available by the metre if thats
what you fancy. Theres some good pub grub too, not least
the sausages which were terrific. Prices more than reasonable and theres even a non-smoking section.QB5, B-dul
Regina Elisabeta 38, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0748 23
41 00/(+4) 0731 42 21 81, www.berariegambrinus.ro.
Open 07:00 - 02:00. PSW

LIVE MUSIC CLUBS

CONTROL CLUB Still tops our list of clubs for people
who do not like clubs. It is a brilliant place where there is
always something going on, be it a DJ or live music supplied by one of Bucharests better live acts. Note also that
it opens early afternoon: it is now a pub as much as a club,
and when the weather is good enough it has a smart terrace. Food upstairs at Alt Shift. Fantastic.QC5, Str. Constantin Mille 4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0733 92 78 61,
www.control-club.ro. Open 12:00 - 06:00. PEBW
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MUSIC CLUB A live music venue where youll find a great

resident band most evenings performing creditable covers
of all your favourite classic hits. They are more often than
not joined on stage in the early hours by leading Romanian
musicians who have quickly made this place their preferred
haunt. Very nice indeed: be prepared to have a very good
time.QC-6, Str. Baratiei 31, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0720
88 71 15, www.music-club.ro. Open 19:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. PEW

and wonderful acoustics. Basically, if the excitement of live

music is what you are looking for, this is one first class venue.
Bang in the city centre (its on Calea Victoriei) its a great
choice if you are stuck in a downtown pub thinking about
where to move on to. Plan on staying late.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 118, tel. (+4) 0728 74 28 83, www.tribute.ro. Open
22:00 - 06:00, Closed Mon Tue, Wed, Sun. PEW

OLDIES BAR & CLUB This centrally-located cafe, bar

and live music club is the kind of place that grown ups
who still have plenty of party left in them (like us) are going to love. Open from early evening for coffee as it gets
dark it turns into a club, with karaoke on Wednesday and
Thursday alongside stand-up comedy. Friday and Saturday
there are usually good local acts performing live. We are
also told that in the not too distant future there will be a
mellow piano bar feel to the place on Sunday and Monday.
There arent many clubs in this city we are happy to send
people: this, however, is one. Recommended.QC5, Str.
Ion Campineanu 16, tel. (+4) 0728 21 96 01/(+4) 0725 21
96 30, www.oldiesclub.ro. Open 20:00 - 02:30. Closed
Mon, Tue, Sun. PJEW

DEJA-VU A place that goes from strength to strength.

Still the best cocktail bar this side of the River Prut, it is
now open during the day for food too: you could spend
your whole life in here. The draw though remain the participatory cocktails, some of which involve fire, and a few
which involve wearing a World War II Russian army helmet.
They also serve at least one which involves a young Russian girl squeezing lemon into your mouth with her teeth.
At weekends it is packed and the small dancefloor is the
sweatiest place in Bucharest. You will love it.QC-5, B-dul
Nicolae Balcescu 25, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 311
23 22/(+4) 0721 91 82 79, www.dejavu-club.ro. Open
17:00 - 04:00. PENW

TRIBUTE Besides a fantastic resident band, Tribute is also

regularly host to a number of the best live acts in the business, who love the atmosphere provided by a great crowd

STUDENT & UNDERGROUND

EXPIRAT & OTHERSIDE CLUB

A club with two faces. Expirat is home to some of Bucharests most eclectic sounds, and as it has an OtherSide (Expirats club within a club), chances are there is bound to be

GAY BUCHAREST
QUEENS
While Romania is still a somewhat intolerant country when it comes to gay rights, things are changing
slowly. The presence of this club in the city centre is
evidence of that. Every Friday and Saturday night
Queens welcomes girls and boys of all persuasions,
and usually puts on some kind of live show - often a
no-holds-barred affair - at least once a week.QB-dul
Carol 61, tel. (+4) 0721 01 21 00. Open 10:00 - 05:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun.
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SMOKING
If youve been in Romania for more than five minutes
you would have already noticed that the good people of this country seriously like their fags, and will in
general light up anywhere and everywhere with little
thought given to the health of others. In some venues,
notably pubs and clubs, you could indeed be forgiven
for thinking that smoking is compulsory, or that prizes
were being given out for the most tabs smoked in an
evening. As such, be warned: if you go out in Bucharest
- even just for a meal - you will almost certainly come
home at the end of the evening reeking of tobacco
from head to foot. There are some exceptions to this
rule: a handful of cafes and restaurants do not allow
smoking at all, and we have marked all of these with a
non-smoking symbol: G. By and large though, expect
smokers to rule the roost wherever you are in the city.
Given that Bucharests stray dog problem now appears
to have been put down (see page 12, and forgive the
pun), it is the offensive levels of smoke in the vast majority of the citys venues that is increasingly becoming
the Romanian capitals biggest image problem.
Now, in the interests of objectivity we should probably point out of course that if you happen to like a puff
or two yourself, then you are in luck: Bucharest is basically a smokers Disneyland. Not only can you smoke
just about anywhere, but cigarettes remain incredibly
cheap in Romania: around 15 lei for a pack of 20 (thats
less than 3). Fill your boots. Or lungs.
something going on you fancy. The music policy is a bit of
everything: folk (usually live on Mondays), electro, alternative, rock and indie with hip-hop, reggae and disco sometimes thrown in for good measure. (Check the venues
Facebook page to see whats on the night you fancy going). Drinks are well priced, and there are two bars meaning that you never have to wait too long to get served.
Top notch.QB-5, Str. Ion Brezoianu 4, MPiata Unirii/
Izvor, tel. (+4) 0733 97 47 28/(+4) 0726 80 41 42, www.
expirat.org. Open 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun.

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(Expirat); 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun. (The

OtherSide). PEW
KULTURHAUS Recently renovated and redesigned, this
remains the student favourite. Attracts a nakedly noncommercial crowd on two levels by offering hard rock,
folk rock, new wave, punk and indie upstairs, and pretty
much the same downstairs (though it depends on the DJ).
Has a live band playing at least once a week, bags of other
events and refreshingly says NO to table service: yes, you
will have to get your sorry ass to the bar to get a drink. We
are fans.QC-6, Str. Sf. Vineri 4, MPiata Unirii/Universitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 55 92, www.kulturhaus.ro. Open
23:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PLEW

UPMARKET CLUBS
BOA (BEAT OF ANGELS BUCHAREST) Very much
an essential Bucharest experience these days. From the
outside you could be forgiven for thinking that this is a
fairly nondescript building, as it looks vaguely like a warehouse. Once you are in, however... Wow! It is an enormous
place that mixes luxury with great music courtesy of two
top local resident DJs who know how to work a crowd of
party people. There are various live acts from cabarettype numbers to some very sexy dancing from the citys
fittest boys and girls. Even the toilets are spacious and
damn well luxurious. You will leave wanting to go back
and cursing your luck that it is only open twice a week.

42 Bucharest In Your Pocket

Oh, and wear sunglasses, everybody else seems to!QB-3,

Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 0736 30 07 00, www.boaclub.
ro. Open 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun.
PLEBW
CLUB MAYA
Pick a night: Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday are lap
dance and strip nights, where attractive young hostesses
will look after you very well indeed: for groups of lads
(especially those on stag dos) its hard to beat. Friday and
Saturday the debauchery continues alongside more mainstream club action, based around a DJ spinning classic hits
from the past.QC5, Calea Mosilor 138, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 0769 778 644, www.club-maya.ro. Open 20:00
- 08:00. Closed Mon. P
FRATELLI One of Bucharests uber-clubs, where the richest and best looking people in the city come to see and be
seen. Serving up a neverending supply of top DJs from both
Romania and abroad, it is clear that the people who run this
place consider the music to be as important as anything else:
something not every club in this town can boast. Not cheap
(kind of the point) if you stick to the beer and do not sit at a
table (which requires you buy a bottle of spirits) then you can
still have a reasonably priced night out.QD-2, Str. Glodeni
1-3, tel. (+4) 0731 03 62 22, www.fratelli.ro. Open 23:00 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PL
PLAYER CLUB The concept at super-club Player this
year is subtly different to last year, and the place has been
given a thorough makeover to keep it sparkling and at the
cutting edge of the Bucharest nightlife scene: honestly,
if its top people and top sounds you want in an exclusive setting then this should be your first stop in the city.
Boasts the sexiest dancers, the best DJs - often as many as
four top names in one night - and is guaranteed to leave
you bleary-eyed the next morning and wanting more. We
should also point out that the attitude is a bit more relaxed
here than that at some of the other uber-clubs: just how
we like it. Get in.QA2, Str. Primo Nebiolo 1, Piata Montreal, tel. (+4) 0720 73 47 34/(+4) 0737 73 73 34, www.
theplayer.ro. Open 23:00-06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu,
Sun, Swimming pool open 09:00-20:00 daily. Admission 40 lei Mon-Fri, 50 lei Sat, Sun. PLBCW
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Sightseeing

ESSENTIAL BUCHAREST
The Peasant and Village Museums should not be missed,
nor should the tour of Casa Poporului/Palatul Parlamentului. You should spend a morning at the National Art Museum, an afternoon at Herastrau Park and enjoy an evening
wandering the Old Town. A stroll around the Bellu Cemetery is a wonderful trip through Romanian literary, artistic,
political and architectural history.
CASA POPORULUI (PARLIAMENT PALACE; PALATUL PARLAMENTULUI) Palatul Parlamentului (known
universally as Casa Poporului) was built during the darkest days of the Nicolae Ceausescu regime. Standing 84m
above ground level on 12 floors, the building has long been
shrouded in mystery, rumour and hyperbole. Originally
designed (by a young architect, Anca Petrescu, who was
just 28 at the time) to house almost all the organs of the
communist state, it today plays host to the Romanian parliament, as well as Romanias Museum of Contemporary Art.
The public tour of the building is thoroughly recommended
(it is the only way to see the building, in fact) though the
commentary often consists of little more than a guide reeling off superlative statistics. Youll see plenty of grand staircases, marble-plated halls and conference rooms, while - if
you pay the extra - you may also have the chance to go on
the roof, which offers perhaps the defining view of central
Bucharest. You can now even take a trip into the bowels of
the building down below, though again this costs extra. To
join one of the tours you will need to bring your passport.
Use the entrance on the left-hand side of the palace (if
youre looking at it front-on). Izvor is the nearest metro station. QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 1, intrarea A3, MIzvor,
tel. (+4) 021 311 36 11, www.cdep.ro. Open 10:00 - 16:00
(last tour 15:30). Admission 25-45 lei adults, 13-23 lei students. Free for children under 18 and the disabled. An
additional fee of 30.00 lei is payable by those with cameras, either still or video.
GEORGE ENESCU MUSEUM (MUZEUL NATIONAL GEORGE ENESCU) Mistakenly believed to be the
great Romanian composer George Enescus former home,
this outstanding Secession house was in fact built for
landowner George Cantacuzino in 1905, and many older
Bucharest residents still refer to it as the Cantacuzino Palace. It became state property in 1955, the year of Enescus
death, and a year later opened as a museum dedicated
to his life and work. You will find rooms full of the usual
memorabilia and artefacts from the eventful life of Romanias most famous composer, as well as a full telling of the
story of Romanian music in general. QB-4, Calea Victofacebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

riei 141, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 318 14 50, www.
georgeenescu.ro. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6 lei, children 1.50 lei. Free entry on the 26th of
each month.
GRIGORE ANTIPA MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY (MUZEUL DE ISTORIE NATURAL GRIGORE
ANTIPA) One of Romanias finest museums, and one of
the best natural history museums in Europe. Packed with
terrific exhibits which will keep kids of all ages and their
parents occupied for the best part of the day, there are all
sorts of hands-on, interactive displays, as well as 3D films,
artificial caves and - in the basement - a thorough guide
to the incredible amount of animal and plant life native to
Romania. The building which houses it all is itself worthy of
note, purpose built in 1908 at the behest of Grigore Antipa, a
noted Romanian naturalist. QB-3, os. Kiseleff 1, MPiata
Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 312 88 26, www.antipa.ro. Open
10:00-20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 lei, pensioners
10 lei, children/students 5 lei.
NATIONAL ART MUSEUM (MNAR; MUZEUL NATIONAL DE ARTA) The countrys largest, and most
impressive art collection is housed inside the splendid
former Royal Palace, first built in 1812 as a private home
by the wealthy trader Dinicu Golescu. It became a royal
residence in 1859, when it was chosen as the site of the
court of the first prince of the united principalities, Alexandru Ion Cuza. There are two permanent galleries, split over
three floors of the main building. National Art (itself divided into Medieval Romanian Art - featuring icons, carved
altars, illustrated manuscripts and bibles, and fragments of

THEODOR AMAN MUSEUM

Recently reopened after a long period of restoration,
this lovely, centrally-located house is one of the finest
old residences in Bucharest, although blink and you
will miss it, hemmed in as it is by tall blocks. Built in
1868 as a home and studio by painter Theodor Aman
it includes a vast number of Amans work: the many
murals and frescoes are not the least of these. Look out
too for the exterior decorations, the work of sculptor
Karl Storck. A charming treat, and really something of
a must.QC-5, Str. C.A. Rosetti 8, tel. (+4) 021 314 58
12, www.muzeulbucurestiului.ro/muzeul-theodoraman.html. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
Adults 5 lei, children, students, pensioners 2 lei.
Photography fee 15 lei.
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Sightseeing
frescoes, and Modern Romanian Art, with all of Romanias
greatest 20th century artists well represented, including
Theodor Aman, Constantin Brancui, Gheorghe Patracu,
and Gheorghe Tattarescu) and European Paintings and
Sculpture, which plays host to a fine collection of Old
European Masters from all of the major schools. QB/C-5,
Calea Victoriei 49-53, tel. (+4) 021 313 30 30/(+4) 021
314 81 19, www.mnar.arts.ro. Open 10.00-19.00. Closed
Mon, Tue. Admission 8 lei for The Gallery of European Art,
10 lei for The National Gallery (Treasure included) and 15
lei for combined tickets (both galleries). Free on the
first Wednesday of each month.
PEASANT MUSEUM (MUZEUL TARANULUI ROMAN) Housed in a wonderful red brick building designed
by Nicolae Ghica-Budeti and dating from 1912, the Peasant
Museum offers a range of exhibitions showing the diverse
and fascinating history of life around the Romanian countryside over the past four centuries. There are exhibitions
covering all aspects of Romanian peasant life, from handpainted Easter eggs to terracotta pottery, from colourful religious icons to a huge range of traditional clothing. Replicas
of some of what is on display can be bought in the excellent
museum shop. Fittingly for the building that from 1948-89
was home to the Museum of the Communist Party and Romanian Revolutionary Workers Movement, there is a rather good
although somewhat monolingual collectivisation exhibition in the basement. The Peasant Museum hosts excellent
craft fairs in its courtyard at least once a month and has a
lovely terrace cafe. QB-3, os. Kiseleff 3, MPiata Victoriei,
tel. (+4) 021 317 96 61, www.muzeultaranuluiroman.ro.
Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last admission 17:00.
Admission 8 lei, students and children 2 lei, pensioners
4 lei. Audio guides are available in English, French, German and Romanian, from 12 lei. Entrance to the craft
fairs (held every month or so) usually costs around 6 lei.
VILLAGE MUSEUM (MUZEUL NAIONAL AL
SATULUI DIMITRIE GUSTI) Founded in 1936 and covering 15 hectares on the shores of Lake Herstru, Muzeul
Satului is one of the greatest outdoor museums in the Balkans. There are more than 60 original houses, farmsteads,
windmills, watermills and churches from all of Romanias
historic regions: Transylvania, Oltenia, Dobrogea and Moldavia. Every exhibit has a plaque showing exactly where in Romania it was brought from. Some even now have recorded
commentary in four languages (if the stickers are missing,
press the second button for English). Most of the houses
date from the mid 19th-century, but there are some, such
as those from Berbeti, in the heart of Romania - celebrated
for their intricately carved entrances - which date from as
early as 1775. The highlight of the museum is probably the
steep belfry of the wooden Maramure church, complete
with exquisite but faded icons. You should also not miss
the earth houses of Straja, dug in to the ground and topped
with thatched roofs. The museum has a great souvenir shop,
and stalls selling traditional Romanian sweets and cakes. It
even has a restaurant, La Francu, set in a 19th-century inn.
Children love the museum, and it makes for a perfect fam44 Bucharest In Your Pocket

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ily outing. QA-2, Sos. Kiseleff 28-30, MAviatorilor, tel.
(+4) 021 317 91 10, www.muzeul-satului.ro. Open 09:00
- 17:00. Admission 10 lei, pensioners 5 lei, students/children 2.50 lei. Audio guides available for 50 lei, guided
tours in English, French, Spanish, Italian, Russian 300 lei:
call in advance. Note that while the museum is open on
Mondays, the houses are not.

HISTORIC BUILDINGS
ARCUL DE TRIUMF
Bucharests Arc de triumf was raised in 1922 to commemorate Romanias World War I dead. The original Arc was
made of wood, replaced by the present, Petru Antonescu
designed concrete structure only in 1935. Standing 25 metres high, the Arc is currently being renovated. QA-2, Piata
Arcul de Triumf, MAviatorilor.
ATHENEUM (ATENEUL ROMN) Possibly the finest building in the city, the Romanian Atheneum, with its
sublime baroque cupola, stands proudly at the flux of the
citys busiest public square, competing with the Athenee
Palace Hilton hotel, the Royal Palace and the old national
library for attention. The work of French architect Albert
Galleron, who also designed the National Bank of Romania, the building was inaugurated on February 26, 1888,
and was built almost entirely with money donated by ordinary citizens of the capital. Today the seat of the George
Enescu Philarmonic, the auditorium is renowned worldwide for its outstanding acoustics. QC-5, Str. Benjamin
Franklin 1-3, tel. (+4) 021 315 25 67, www.fge.org.ro.
Box Office Open 14:00 - 16:00.
CASA PRESEI LIBERE (CASA SCNTEII) An impressive edifice standing somewhat menacingly at the entrance
to the capital, Casa Scanteii (as it is still universally known)
was designed by architect Horia Maicu and completed in
1956, one year after the strikingly similar (though much
taller) Palace of Science and Culture in Warsaw, Poland. Built
to serve as the home of the capitals publishing houses, the
facade has in recent years been defaced by the addition of
advertising hoardings. QA-1, Piata Presei Libere 1.
CEC
The home of the National Savings Bank (Casa de Economii
si Consemnaiuni; CEC) is one of the most fabulous NeoClassical facades in the city: the enormous arch that
houses the entrance, with its mighty Corinthian columns,
is a highlight of any architectural tour of Bucharest. Built
during the last decade of the nineteenth century, to the
designs of French architect Paul Gottereau, the building is
no less impressive on the inside.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 13.
PALATUL DIN PIATA VICTORIEI (PALATUL VICTORIEI) Today the home of the Romanian government, this
linear construction was built in 1937 to the design of Duiliu
Marcu, originally to house the Foreign Ministry (which is now
elsewhere). Entrance is only granted to those on government
business. QB-4, B-dul Ilie Pintilie 1, MPiata Victoriei.
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Sightseeing
BUCHAREST WITH CHILDREN

CHILDRENS LISTINGS

Visiting the Romanian capital with kids? The outdoor

Village Museum (p. 42) is as good a place as any to start:
its many houses, windmills and wooden churches will
fascinate young minds, while there are usually activities
at weekends for children. The excellent confectionery stall
at the entrance, selling home-made sweets, cakes and
such like, will also be a hit. Of the citys other museums,
the Peasant (p. 44), Grigore Antipa Natural History (p. 43)
and Technical (p. 51) are probably the most suited to children, particularly older kids. You can get to them all riding
around on the top deck of a Bucharest City Tour sightseeing bus. See page 19.
Bucharest is blessed with a number of good parks,
and all of them have lots to offer. There are playgrounds
in all of them, pleasure boat rides on the lake in Herastrau, rowing boats in both Herastrau and Cismigiu.
See page 51. Perhaps the park most suited to children
however is Tineretului in the south of the city (take the
metro to Tineretului). It has loads of very good and big
playgrounds, and you can hire bikes at the main entrance. On the far side of the park (take the metro to
Constantin Brancoveanu) is Oraselul Copiilor (Childrens
City) - a large funfair whose attractions include a big
wheel and some very scary rides strictly for the brave.
You can hire bikes at one of the IVelo rental centres
located at the entrance to Herastrau and Tineretului
parks. Bikes cost 5 lei per hour, or 15 lei for a full day.
The under 16s and over 65s can hire bikes for free (but
for a maximum of two hours). You will need ID.
There are also a couple of adventure parks within
reach of Bucharest. The one we recommend is Edenland (edenland.ro) in Balotesti, north of the city. You
will need your own transport to get there (a taxi will be
happy to take you, but it might be tricky finding one to
bring you back). Edenland offers a range of adventure
trails for kids (and adults, for that matter) of all ages, as
well as paintball, archery and other outdoor activities.
Bucharests best water park is Divertiland (divertiland.ro) on the western edge of the city: bus No. 237
from Piata Operei stops right outside the entrance. For
kids who just want to swim there are pools open to the
public at most of the five-star hotels. See pages 68-69.
The Romanian National Opera puts on childrens
matinees most weekend mornings at 11:00 during the
opear season (which starts again at the end of September). Most restaurants in Bucharest are child-friendly,
even if the amount of smoke in some of them means
that you will probably not want to enter with your kids.
Those deserving a special mention include the big
hotels, all of which have kids entertainers during their
Sunday brunches, and the Hard Rock Cafe (p. 20): always
happy to see kids and packed with them at weekends.

DIVERTILAND Slides, swimming pools, sandy

beaches and much more at one of Romanias biggest
water parks. Bus No. 237 from Piata Operei stops right
outside.QStr. Divertismentului 1, www.divertiland.
ro. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Adults 50 lei Mon-Fri, 80 lei
Sat, Sun. Children 40 lei Mon-Fri, 70 lei Sat, Sun.
Free for children under three.

You can find our full Childrens Bucharest listings online at:
inyourpocket.com/bucharest/features
46 Bucharest In Your Pocket

EDENLAND The best adventure park close to Bucharest. Edenland (pictured below) offers a range of
adventure trails for kids (and adults, for that matter) of
all ages, as well as paintball, archery and other outdoor
activities. You will need your own transport to get
here, for while a taxi will be happy to take you, it might
be tricky finding one to bring you back again. They
even have family-sized tree houses for hire (390 lei
per night) if you want to sleep here.QStr. Cantonului,
Balotesti, tel. (+4) 0733 36 52 63, www.edenland.ro.
Open 10:00 - 21:00. Adults 50 lei (for three hours),
children (aged 11-18) 40 lei, children (aged 4-10) 30
lei. BIke hire 30 lei for one hour.
HOUSE OF BOUNCE Trampolines, and lots of them.
Whats more, this place is not reserved for kids: indeed,
you will find many visitors to be adults. Jumping is the
new black, it would appear. You will find the House of
Bounce in Baneasa.QStr. Biharia, tel. (+4) 0374 04 04
44, www.houseofbounce.ro. Open 09:00 - 21:00.
Adults 35 lei, Children (under 5 years) 25 lei.
ORASELUL COPIILOR Huge funfair in the south of
the city, close to Constantin Brancoveanu metro station, and accessible even if you do not have your own
transport. There are rides of varying scariness (all of
which have to paid for separately), a big wheel offering great views, boat rides and a miniature train. There
are also some large, free playgrounds (both indoor
and outdoor).QCalea Piscului (Parcul Tineretului),
MConstantin Brancoveanu. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

COMMUNIST TOURS
If its the communist period of Bucharests history which
fascinates you about this city the most, then you might
be interested in the three-hour walking tours currently being operated by Marius Zaharia at tourofcommunism.com. He knows is stuff, and the thorough tour
takes in every aspect of the citys past, from the violent
beginnings of the communism through the destructive
remodelling of the city to its brutal end. Tours cost 19
and usually run every Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and
Sunday, beginning at 10:30 at the Romanian Patriarchal
Cathedral (just off Piata Unirii). You can reserve places
online at tourofcommunism.com.
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Sightseeing
HISTORIC CHURCHES
ANTIM MONASTERY (MANASTIREA ANTIM)
The splendid Antim Monastery, with its elegant dome and
gold finish was constructed between 1708 and 1715 on
the orders of polymath Antim Ivireanul, patriarch of the
Orthodox Church in Wallachia at the time. Antim originally
intended the monastery to be a refuge for fallen women
and refugees, as well as a seat of learning. The bell tower
through which we today enter the monastery was added in
1857. The monastery church is particularly worth admiring
for its icons featuring the Nativity and Revelations, painted
in 1812 by Petre Alexandrescu.QB-6, Str. Antim 29.
APOSTLES CHURCH (BISERICA SFINTII APOSTOLI) One of the oldest churches in Bucharest (with parts dating back to the 16th century, when it served as the church
of the Trnovului Monastery) the Apostles Church is notable
for its sublime steeple, built in 1715 and restored in 1936.
Inside the church is brimming with some rather strange
portraits, all of which are well worth seeing. Among the
portraits are those of the churchs founder, Voivod Matei.
QB-6, Str. Sfintii Apostoli 33A, MPiata Unirii.
ARMENIAN CHURCH (BISERICA ARMENEASC)
Now overlooked by a hideous skyscraper, this is nevertheless one of the largest and best preserved Orthodox
churches in central Bucharest. The church (built between
1911-15) is an exact replica of a cathedral in the Armenian
city of Ecmiazin, and serves the citys once large but now
miniscule Armenian population. Next to the church is an
interesting library with a large number of documents relating to the Armenian population (phone ahead for access). QD-5, B-dul Carol I 43, tel. (+4) 021 313 90 70,
www.armenianchurch.ro.
BARATIEI CHURCH (BISERICA BARATIEI)
Almost poking into Bulevardul Bratianu, this Roman-Catholic church was built in 1828, although there has been a
church here since the late 1590s. Boasting a couple of superb stained-glass windows the church holds services in
Romanian and Hungarian. The name, Baratiei, derives from
the Hungarian word for friend, barat. QC-6, Str. Baratiei
27, MPiata Unirii/Universitate.
BUCUR CHURCH First built as early as 1416, this could
well be the site of the oldest church in Bucharest. Nobody
is exactly sure how long there has been a church here, but
we do know that it predates the Radu Voda monastery opposite, which was first constructed in 1506. Today, the Bucur Church is often ignored, hidden as it is on a hill above
the street. The current church was built around 1720 (thoroughly renovated in 1909-10) to serve as a chapel for the
cemetery of the Radu Voda monastery. The church - and
the hill on which it stand were recently consolidated in order to prevent them falling further towards the Dambovita
river, just a few metres behind. The church is named for
Bucur the Shepherd, the legendary founder of Bucharest.
QC-7, Str. Radu Voda 33, www.biserica-bucur.ro.
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August - September 2015

47

Sightseeing
COLEA CHURCH (BISERICA COLEA) To the left
(face on) of the Colea hospital, the church of the same
name was built from 1701-2 on the site of an older, wooden
construction. Recent renovation has restored much of
the rich ornamentation of the interior, most of which was
painted in 1876 by Gheorghe Tattarescu. The church (like
the recently renovated hospital which surrounds it) was
founded by courtier Mihai Cantacuzino. Look out for the
Cantacuzino family crest above the vaguely Italian baroque
portal. A statue of Cantacuzino stands just inside the entrance to the hospital courtyard.QC-5, B-dul Nicolae
Blcescu 1, MUniversitate.
CREULESCU CHURCH (BISERICA CREULESCU)
Probably the most celebrated historic church in Bucharest.
Biserica Creulescu was raised from 1720-2 by Iordache
Creulescu and his wife Safta, a daughter of Romanian ruler
Constantin Brncoveanu. The outstanding paintings on the
entrance are original, the work of an unknown artist, while
the interior icons were added in 1859 by the prolific Gheorghe Tattarescu. Damaged during the fighting of December
1989, the church has recently been restored to its full glory,
and is a must. QC-5, Calea Victoriei 47, MUniversitate.
DOMNIA BALAA CHURCH
To say this church has been the victim of bad luck is an understatement. Built in 1885, the church is named after Constantin
Brncoveanus sixth daughter, who built an earlier church on
the site in 1744, but which burnt down soon after. In 1751 a
second church was built; but that was also later damaged, during an earthquake in 1838. Building work almost immediately
started on a third church, but that too proved unstable and just
40 years later it was replaced by the current, orange-coloured,
Neo-Romanesque building. Serious cracks that appeared after
another earthquake in 1940 were repaired in the 1960s, only to
be damaged again in the massive earthquake of 1977.QB-6,
Str. Sfintii Apostoli, MPiata Unirii.
MIHAI VOD MONASTERY (MNSTIREA MIHAI
VOD) One of the churches that was moved to make way
for the Civic Centre, Mihai Vod was originally built in 1601.
After a fire in 1761 it was left to rot before thorough rebuilding was carried out from 1827-38. In 1985 it was moved 285
metres east - on rails - and hidden in its present location behind the apartment blocks. QB-6, Str. Sapienei 2, MIzvor.
NEW ST. GEORGES CHURCH (BISERICA SF. GHEORGHE NOU) The largest of the churches built in Bucharest
during the reign of Constantin Brncoveanu, New St. Georges
Church was consecrated on June 29th, 1707. It was a wonder
of the age, having been designed by an Italian, Vaseleli, and
decorated by the great Romanian maestros of the times: the
painter Mutu, the carpenter Istrate and the sculptor Caragea. Damaged in a fire in 1847, the church was renovated
from 1852-3 by the Spanish architect Villacrosse. New and
outstanding interior murals were added by Marian Popp.
Brncoveanu is himself buried at the church, part of which is
currently undergoing renovation.QC-6, Piata Sf. Gheorghe,
MPiata Unirii.
48 Bucharest In Your Pocket

PATRIARCHAL CATHEDRAL (PATRIARHIA) The Patriarchal Cathedral has been the centrepiece of the Romanian
Orthodox faith since the seventeenth century. Built to a design
based on the Curtea de Arges near Pitesti, it has undergone a
number of facelifts over the years, but the overwhelming majority of the cathedrals structure is the original, built between
1654 and 1658, although the outstanding bell-tower at the
entrance was built in 1698. Next to the church is the Patriarchal
Palace, residence of the patriarch of the Romanian Orthodox
Church.QC-6/7, Str. Dealul Mitropoliei, MPiata Unirii.
RADU VOD MONASTERY (MNSTIREA RADU
VOD) There was originally a wooden church on this
site, built during the reign of Mihnea the Bad, around 1508.
The monastery was added in 1570, and was dedicated to
the Holy Trinity. The present church - which resembles the
Curtea de Arge, outside Piteti - dates from 1613-4, though
it was extensively rebuilt during the 19th century, when the
frescoes (the work of peerless painter Gheorghe Tattarescu)
were added. QC-6, Str. Radu Vod 24A, MPiata Unirii.
SCHITUL DARVARI (DARVARI HERMITAGE) The
walled Schitul Darvari is a gorgeous oasis of peace and quiet
in busy central Bucharest. Founded in 1834 by Mihai Darvari
and his wife Elena it was originally a private church for their
family. Renovated extensively from 1933-4, a community
of monks lived here continuously from 1835 to 1959, when
they were forced to move to Cernica Monastery by Romanias communist authorities.QC-5, Str. Schitul Darvari 3,
www.schituldarvari.ro. Open 07:30 - 19:30.

MUSEUMS
ART COLLECTION MUSEUM (MUZEUL COLECTIILOR DE ART) Firstly, a few words about the building.
The Casa Romanit was constructed in 1822 as a private
residence, before being bought by the state in 1883 to
serve as the countrys supreme court. There are presently
some fantastic works on show here, including paintings by
all of Romanias greatest artists, from Nicolae Grigorescu to
Theodor Pallady.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 111, tel. (+4) 021
212 96 41/(+4) 021 212 96 42. Open 11:00-19:00. Closed
Thu, Fri. Admission 7.00 lei, students/children 3.50 lei.
COTROCENI MUSEUM Constructed from 1888-93 at
the behest of Romanias first king, Carol I, Cotroceni Palace
has since 1991 been the official residence of the Romanian
President. Built on the site of a former monastery (the
foundations and cellars of which remain, and form part
of the tour of the palace), the palace was designed by a
French team of architects, led by Paul Gottereau. It served
as the Bucharest residence of the Romanian royal family
until 1939. Part of the palace is open to the public, and can
be visited on a tour.QB-dul Geniului 1, MPolitehnica,
tel. (+4) 021 317 31 07, www.muzeulcotroceni.ro. Open
09:30 - 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission 27 lei, students
and children 21 lei. Admission includes entrance and
the compulsory guided tour. Tours are available in Romanian, French and English. Last tour begins at 16:30.
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Sightseeing
SIGHTSEEING TOURS
BOOKTOURSROMANIA Offers a variety of tours
of both Bucharest and Romania. All tours are private
and fully customisable, particularly suitable for couples
and small groups. The tours on offer vary from a one
day walking tour of Bucharest to multiple days spent
throughout Romania.Qtel. (+4) 0727 03 29 45, www.
booktoursromania.com.
CULTURAL TRAVEL & TOURS
CT&T provides tailor-made heritage sightseeing tours of
Bucharest (from 29), a number of themed tours around
Wallachia and Transylvania, and several nationwide tours
of varying lengths. Other flexible services and guides in
a variety of languages are available on request.QTel./
fax (+4) 0747 08 47 18, tel. (+4) 0724 71 88 48, www.
cttours.ro.
MR. TRIPP
Offers a number of terrific tours, not the least of which
is the excellent value four-hour tour of Mogosoaia and
Snagov for 49, which includes the tomb of Vlad Tepes
(Dracula). There is also a full-day trip to Draculas Castle
(Bran; 79) which also includes Peles, Sinaia Monastery
and Brasov. They will even pick you up from, and drop you
off back at, your hotel for free. The price includes all entrance fees and a guide.QC-5, Calea Victoriei 68-70, tel.
(+4) 0745 75 27 53, www.traveltobucharest.com. Open
10:00 - 20:00 , Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
RAPSODIA TOURS
Offers a range of sleep and drive packages featuring
Bucharest, Sibiu, Sighisoara and Brasov from 140. The
prices include two mights four-star accommodation with
breakfast and three days car hire.QB-4, B-dul Nicolae
Titulescu 1, tel. (+4) 0744 63 82 92/(+4) 0744 58 67 24.
NATIONAL TECHNICAL MUSEUM (MUZEUL
TEHNIC DIMITRIE LEONIDA) Often unfairly derided as
an outdated museum of technology, it should be remembered that the machines, turbines, inventions and gadgets
on display here are not meant to be cutting edge. At least
not in this day and age. They were all, however, cutting edge
when they first appeared, with some of the older steam
engines dating back to the beginning of the 19th century.
The museum is housed in something of a cherished relic
itself: the last remaining pavilion (one of many) built (like
the Carol Park in which it stands) to host the 1906 Romania
in the World Fair. QC-7, Str. Gen. Candiano Popescu 2, tel.
(+4) 021 336 93 90. Open 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
Admission 6 lei, students, children 3 lei.

ROARING ROMANIA Roaring Romania offer a walking tour of Bucharest which lasts around two and a half
hours, taking in all of the citys major sights. A knowledgeable local guide will be on hand to tell you all you want
to know about everything you see. The tour departs at
10:00 and 14:30 from in front of the Atheneum, opposite
the Hilton and costs 15.QTel. (+4) 0730 31 50 96, www.
roaringromania.com.
TRANSVISION TransVision runs a number of tours, including a Dracula Tour which takes in Peles Castle, Rasnov
Citadel and Dracula (Bran) Castle in Transylvania. The price
is 59/person. Another option is a two-day tour of Transylvania, also including Sibiu, Sighisoara and Brasov. The
price is 159/person and includes a night at a three-star
hotel with breakfast. All tours include free pick-up and
return from any Bucharest hotel, as well as an Englishspeaking guide (other languages available).Qtel. (+4)
0755 05 26 21, www.transvision.ro.
TRAVELMAKER Escorted group tours from and around
Bucharest, an airport shuttle service and private transfers.
They also provide hotel accommodation all over Romania,
city break packages and short trips. Offers the only daily
group tour (which anyone can join) to Peles and Bran
Castles for 69 per person.QStr. Elena Vacarescu 9, bl.
XXI-2, tel. (+4) 0735 52 57 10, www.bucharestcitytour.
com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
VMS CITYSHUTTLE Offers a number of tours of Bucharest and the surrounding area, as well as the Prahova Valley
and southern Transylvania (including Bran Castle). Prices
start at 25 for a half day tour of Bucharest, and 49 for the
Bran Tour. Trips to the Buzau wineries, Sibiu and Sighisoara
via the Transfagarasan, the Black Sea and Danube Delta on
request.QStr. Nicolae Caramfil 87, et. 6, EKA Building, tel.
(+4) 021 204 77 77, www.cityshuttle.ro. Open 24 hours.
bolist environment of the late 19th century, and his paintings before 1916 contain Symbolist motifs, sometimes
with echoes of Moreau and Puvis de Chavannes. Alas the
small museum that today bears his name has only six of his
paintings, a couple of his sketches and assorted other art.

THEODOR PALLADY MUSEUM (CASA MELIK,

MUZEUL THEODOR PALLADY) Theodor Pallady
(1871-1953) was an early Cubist artist widely regarded as
Romanias most influential 20th century painter. Schooled
in Dresden and Paris, Pallady was influenced by the Sym50 Bucharest In Your Pocket

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Sightseeing

The museums saving grace is the house in which it is hosted: the oldest in Bucharest. Originally called the Casa Melik,
it was built around 1750 by the rich Armenian Hagi Kevork
Nazaretoglu.QD-5, Str. Sptarului 22, tel. (+4) 021 211 49
79. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 5
lei, students and children 2.50 lei.

PARKS & GARDENS

BOTANICAL GARDENS (GRDINA BOTANIC)
Bucharests rather fabulous Botanical Gardens were founded in 1860 with the significant financial backing of Prince
Alexandru Ioan Cuza, at the time the leader of the nascent
Romanian state. Completed in 1866 to the designs and instructions of Ulrich Hoffmann, they were originally in the
grounds of the Cotroceni Monastery, moving to their present location in 1884. The gardens today extend over an
area of more than 17 hectares, and host more than 10,000
species of plants, approximately half of which are cultivated in the impressive glasshouses, recently renovated
and fabulous: kids love the wide variety of strange plants
inside, especially the cacti and the Venus fly traps.QSos.
Cotroceni 32, MPolitehnica, tel. (+4) 021 410 91 39,
www.gradina-botanica.ro. Gardens Open 08:00-20:00.
Botanical Museum Open 10:00-15:00, 09:00-13:00, Sat,
Sun, Closed Fri. Greenhouses Open 10:00-13:00, Closed
Mon, Wed, Fri. Admission to the gardens 5.00 lei, students and children 2.00 lei. Museum and greenhouses
cost extra: 2 lei adults, 1 leu children.
CISMIGIU GARDENS (GRDINA CISMIGIU)
The most central of the citys public gardens, Cismigiu is a
haven of lawns, trees, flowers and lakes. Cismigiu was first
designed and laid out in 1845 by the German landscape
architect Carl Meyer, but not completed until 1860. More
than 30,000 trees and plants were brought in from the Romanian mountains, while exotic plants were fetched from
the botanical gardens in Vienna. Highlights of the 17 hectare
garden include the Roman Garden, laid out in the style of
ancient Rome, and including busts of Romanias most famous writers, and the lake, which during the winter can be
skated on.QB-5, Between B-dul Regina Elisabeta, Calea
Victoriei, Str. Stirbei Vod and B-dul Schitu Mgureanu,
MUniversitate.
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HERSTRU PARK This glorious park, spread over

187 hectares around Herastrau lake is one of the jewels
in Bucharests crown, which might explain why half of
the city chooses to spend its Sunday afternoons here. The
first thing you will see when entering the park from Piata
Charles de Gaulle is a tall, bronze, rather bizarre statue of
de Gaulle himself. Unveiled in 2006 the statue is the work
of local artist Mircea Corneliu Spataru, and was commissioned by the Ministry of Culture to commemorate Bucharests hosting that year of the Francophonie conference.
Charles de Gaulle is not the only historic figure honoured
in this part of the park with a statue or bust, however. In
fact, the alleyways and paths which fan out from the entrance are all dotted with famous people, from Romanian
revolutionary Nicolae Balcescu to Bengali literatures most
important figure, Rabindranath Tagore. Look out also for
local artists Nicolae Grigorescu, Constantin Brancusi and
Theodor Aman, as well as writers George Cosbuc, Alexandru Vlahuta and Romanias national poet, Mihai Eminescu.
Other foreigners honoured with statues include William
Shakespeare, Ady Endre, Sandor Petofi and Victor Hugo.
There is even a memorial to Michael Jackson. There are
tons of playgounds for kids, a wide selection of cafes and
restaurants and short boat trips on the lake. During the
summer you can rent bikes from IVelo, close to the entrance. Rental costs 5 lei per hour, or 15 lei for a full day.
Under-16s and over-65s can rent bikes for free, for a maximum of two hours.QB-3, Sos. Kiseleff 32, MAviatorilor.

BELLU CEMETERY
Founded in the 1850s, this is the final resting place of
just about every great Romanian academic, scientist,
artist, writer, musician and poet you can think of, as
well as the odd politician. Each has his or her own plot,
usually with an accompanying monument (our favourite is that devoted to the comic actor Toma Caragiu,
killed in the Bucharest earthquake of 1977). Next to the
cemetery is the Cimitirul Eroilor, where those killed in Bucharest during the 1989 revolution are buried. QCalea
Serban Voda 249, MEroii Revolutiei, tel. (+4) 021 636
35 71, www.bellu.ro. Chapel open 08:00 - 16:00.
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51

Old Town

Opera
Novotel

Grand
Continental

stic

Maje
Capitol

Casa

Caps

Cismigiu

Museum of
Bucharest

Z Boutique

K&K
Elisabeta
Coltea Church
& Hospital

Central
Doamnei

Russian
Church

Rembrandt

Mihai Voda

History
Museum

Stavropoleos
Church

Tania

Baratiei

Sf. Dumitru
Old Court Palace
& Church

Cocor

Europa Royale

Domnita
Balasa

Old Town - which most locals call Centru Vechi (Old Centre)
- is a little pocket of 19th and early 20th century Bucharest
which survived both the bombing of World War II and the
bulldozers of Romanias communist planners. It is described
by Bulevardul Regina Elisabeta and Piata Universitatii to the
north, Bulevardul IC Bratianu to the east, the river to the
south and Calea Victoriei to the west. Not more than one
kilometre square, the area boasts more restaurants, pubs
and clubs than any other district in the city.

GETTING THERE
You can walk to the Old Town from most parts of the city
centre. Two metro stations serve the area: Piata Universitatii
to the north and Piata Unirii to the south. Note that most
of the Old Towns streets are pedestrianised, with access for
vehicles strictly limited (well, strictly by Romanian standards). There is an underground car park at Piata Universitatii,
accessed via Strada Doamnei. Taxis will usually drop you off
at what is known as La Bariera (at the bottom end of Strada
Selari) or at the National Bank. When leaving the Old Town
always be careful to take an honest taxi: see page ten for
more on taxis in Bucharest.

OLD TOWN WALK

Begin your exploration of Old Town at the four statues in
Piata Universitatii, before heading to the Russian Church
(officially called the St. Nicholas Students Church). From
here, its worth popping along to the National Bank, on the
52 Bucharest In Your Pocket

other side of which is the majestic Pasajul Macca-Villacrosse,

and Strada Lipscani: the street whose name is often used
to describe the whole Old Town area. Then make sure you
head along Strada Stavropoleos to see its architectural
gems: the church which shares its name and the Caru cu
Bere pub and restaurant. Head out on to Calea Victoriei to
take a look at the Zlatari Church, National History Museum
and CEC building before coming back into the Old Town
via Strada Franceza and the Sf. Dumitru Church. At the far
end, in Piata Sf Anton, is the Old Court Palace and Church:
the very raison detre of the entire Old Town area. The Hanul
Manuc is opposite. For more details on all of the sights you
will spot along the way, see the Old Town Sights listings,
which begin on page 63.
STRADA LIPSCANI & HANUL CU TEI
Strada Lipscani gets its name from the large number of
traders who, in the 18th century, sold wares here brought
from Leipzig, which at the time was one of the largest
trading posts in Europe. As Str. Lipscani was the main commercial street in the Old Town, it over time lent its name
to the whole area. Ironically, its name and history aside,
modern Str. Lipscani has little to recommend it, although
it does have some exceptional bars, pubs and clubs, and
a theatre. About two thirds of the way along Str. Lipscani
is the Hanul cu Tei, a wonderful courtyard (once part of a
large inn) which today houses art galleries, antique shops,
second-hand book shops, gift shops, studios and portrait
artists, as well as a lively pub/restaurant, and an excellent
souvenir shop.QC-6, Str. Lipscani, MUniversitate.
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Old Town

UNIVERSITATE
The twin semi-circular buildings in Piata Universitatii
which are in many ways the entrance to the Old Town
were built in 1906 to serve as the headquarters of Romanias largest insurance company. In front of them are four
statues, of Gheorghe Lazar (founder, in 1818, of the first
Romanian school in Bucharest), Ion Heliade Radulescu
(a founding member of the Romanian Academy), Mihai
Voievod Viteazul (the first person to unite the three
Romanian provinces, in 1600) and Spiru Haret (a mathematician, astronomer and politician who as education
minister in the 1880s and 1890s created the foundations
of the modern Romanian education system). Opposite
is the university building itself, constructed over from
1857 to 1869 at the behest of Alexandru Ioan Cuza, at the
time Prince of Romania. The central corp of the building
was entirely rebuilt in the late 1940s after it was destroyed
during heavy allied bombing in 1944. Though rebuilt as an
exact replica of the original, many sculptures and basreliefs
by Carol Storck were deemed irreplaceable and lost forever.
QC-5, Piata Universitatii, MUniversitate.

its the best Bucharest has ever produced. Make sure you
visit and convince yourself of the fact.QC6, Str. Franceza
38-42, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0726 67 12 27, www.
cremeriaemilia.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00
- 24:00. PGSW

OLD TOWN CAFES

STARBUCKS HANUL LUI MANUC

Starbucks has been a feature of Bucharests malls for some
time now, but this is the first city centre location, and already its the franchises most popular. Doesnt look much
like your average Starbucks - possibly part of the attraction - it is situated in the historic Hanul lui Manuc, an inn
dating from the 19th century. Rest assured you can still get
your hands on a superb Starbucks coffee, however, and all

CREMERIA EMILIA Got kids? Want to win some serious parenting points? Bring them here. Ice creams, sundaes, cakes and biscuits, all freshly made on the premises.
The place itself is great, with a long, Italian-style counter
and seating both up and downstairs. Not cheap, the ice
cream is nevertheless sensational and worth every penny:
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GRAND CAFE VAN GOGH Bucharests default meet

you there venue. Its genius is that its ideal at every time of
day: morning coffee or breakfast sat in front of one of the
long windows, a casual lunch at one of the wooden tables,
a meal and a late night at the bar. The food is good - simple
and very reasonably priced - and this Dutch owned, friendly cafe is a winner: you will go back more than once. They
do a great brunch on Saturday and Sunday from 10:0016:00 (way cheaper than the big hotels, and free for under10s) and we should also mention that van Gogh stays open
late at the weekend, offering a very decent after-party
food menu. Can also boast an entire floor for non-smokers.
QC6, Str. Smardan 9, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 031 107
63 71, www.vangogh.ro. Open 08:30 - 24:00, Fri 08:30
- 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. PSW

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in the company of the citys trendiest people, who throng
here. Its also non-smoking, unlike just about every other
cafe in the city.QC6, Str. Franceza 62, MPiata Unirii,
www.starbucksromania.ro. Open 08:00 - 23:30. PG
SW

AMERICAN & BURGERS

BURGERBAR
Not just another Bucharest burger bar, this place could
well be the Bucharest burger bar. Served with fantastic,
chunky, Belgian-style fries, crispy onion rings, four homemade sauces and Heinz ketchup they have gone the extra
mile here. The burgers are made on the spot from fresh
ground beef, and there are loads of toppings to choose
from. Your kids will love the mini-burgers. The desserts are
OK too: you havent eaten a fudge in Bucharest until youve
tried the one theyre serving here. Add in funky contemporary decor and you have a place we are more than happy to recommend. Open late at the weekends.QC6, Str.
Lipscani (Pasajul Selari), MPiata Universitatii, tel. (+4)
021 313 03 76. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00,
Also at (B-3) Calea Dorobantilor 182, tel. (+40) 21 233 90
96. . PVSW

FINE DINING
MULANRUJ DINING THEATRE & CLUB
Upstairs at Bordellos is the Mulanruj Dining Theatre, a
dinner and events venue where there is regular cabaret including burlesque, magicians and such like - stand-up
comedy, live music and theme parties. Tickets usually include both the show and an excellent dinner, and there
is usually a wide range of dining options. The food - as
you would expect from the people who run Bordellos - is
always excellent. You can get all the details about coming events direct from Bordellos or the venues Facebook

CARTURESTI CARUSEL
Bucharests most impressive bookshop is this wonderful building on Strada Lipscani. Dating from the latter
part of the 19th century the building was home to a
department store during the communist era, before
standing neglected for almost a quarter of century until reopening earlier this year after a long renovation.
And what a renovation: the building has been bought
back to life by Carturestis team of architects and is that
impressive that even if you are not in the market for
any books, you must pop in to have a look. It is also
perhaps the only shop in Bucharest where the staff do
not tell you off for taking photos: indeed, its positively
encouraged. Besides the tens of thousands of books
and gifts on sale there is gallery and exhibition space,
and a rather good bistro on the top floorQC-6, Str.
Lipscani 55, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0728 82 89 22,
www.carturesticarusel.ro. Open 10:00 - 24:00.
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page.QC6, Str. Selari 9-11, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0748

88 10 85, rezervari@bordellos.ro, www.bordellos.ro.
Open 19:00 - 24:00. . PEW
THE ARTIST RESTAURANT
Consistently brilliant, this is food as art. The work of a
young Dutch chef, this amazing restaurant is something
special. The menu changes with the seasons, and the lobster sarmale are probably our pick of the current menu,
alongside the stuffed calamari and prawns. For dessert,
the chefs cucumber sorbet is tremendous. There is a
spoon tasting menu for those who want to try all the main
courses currently being served. In keeping with the food
the restaurant itself is contemporary and upmarket, a mix
of the bright and the simple, chic without ever going over
the top. Prices reflect the high quality.QC6, Str. Nicolae
Tonitza 13, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0728 31 88 71/(+4)
031 106 17 22, www.theartist.ro. Open 18:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat, Sun 12:30 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Closed until August
17. . PBW

FRENCH
LA BONNE BOUCHE
Does what it does - simple French bistro food - better than
anywhere else in the city. Try the sublime onion soup,
calves liver with sage and garlic mash and the lemon
meringue pie. Look for the chefs specials too. An open
kitchen is always a good sign, and we love the variety
of reading material in the toilets. Just a brilliantly simple
place. Note that they accept Amex cards: not everywhere
does in Bucharest.QC6, Str. Franceza 30, MPiata Unirii,
tel. (+4) 0731 24 78 76, www.labonnebouche.ro. Open
12:00 - 23:30. . PESW
LES BOURGEOIS
A veritable Strada Smardan legend of a venue, whose longevity is a credit to its management who keep rethinking
and reinventing the vast international menu packed with
cracking dishes of all flavours and making sure there is always good reason to come and eat, drink or just have one
of over 30 coffees here. Indeed, there is so much to choose
from here that making individual recommendations is
pointless. Everyone will find something they like, and we
might add that the desserts are fab too. It also occupies
one of the very best locations in the Old Town. Go there.
QC6, Str. Smardan 20, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 310
60 52/(+4) 0720 13 29 94, www.lesbourgeois.ro. Open
09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00. PSW

GREEK
MEZE TAVERNA
Another excellent Greek restaurant. It even looks the part
- we love the lampshades made from empty olive oil cans
- while the food itself is seriously, seriously good. There
is tons of seafood on the gorgeous menu (the fish soup
and the prawns with tomatoes and cheese are musts),
alongside what is some of the best lamb weve eaten in
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Old Town
Bucharest. The Greek burger is a nice treat too. The chef,
Georgios, is always coming up with tasty daily specials, so
ask your waiter whats cooking. The house red is a drinkable bargain.QC6, Str. Nicolae Tonita 6, MPiata Unirii,
tel. (+4) 021 539 53 53, info@mezetaverna.ro, www.
mezetaverna.ro. Open 10:00 - 02:00. . PESW

ITALIAN
BEL MONDO
A good Italian restaurant, one of the better ones in the
Old Town, which offers decent food - we recommend the
fresh tomato soup with mozarella - at prices that are more
than reasonable. The pizzas are excellent (and huge) and
the space itself is big, open, light and blessed with sensationally high ceilings. Easily the best occupant of the old
Amsterdam Cafe location since Amsterdam itself.QC6,
Str. Covaci 6, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0725 96 66 36/
(+4) 0721 22 02 73, www.restaurantbelmondo.ro. Open
12:00 - 24:00. . PSW
TRATTORIA BUONGIORNO
We have always loved Trattoria Buongiorno, and have
quickly become big fans of its most recent location in the
Old Town. Decent Italian food (there is a small but good
selection of fish dishes which are well worth looking out
for, and the pasta is made on the premises). The location makes it a seriously good place to eat and watch the
world go by. (And at weekends, it can feel like the whole
city is going by).QC6, Str. Franceza 52, MPiata Unirii,
tel. (+4) 0733 11 04 64, www.trattoriabuongiorno.ro.
Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Also at (B-2)
Str. Herstru 2; (B-4) B-dul Lascar Cartagiu 56; Baneasa
Shopping Center, 1st floor. . PBSW

PIZZA
PIZZA DA LORENZO
The best place to eat pizza in the Old Town. The place is
relatively small, but has a contemporary feel and in summer there are tables outside on the pedestrianised street
and space for everyone. Beyond the pizza (which is excellent: light bases topped with fresh ingredients to order)
there is much else, from a great burger (with grilled aubergines) to fish and seafood. Prices more than reasonable for
the Old Town. You can do a lot worse.QC6, Str. Gabroveni 3, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 031 425 35 80/(+4) 021
313 47 65. Open 09:00 - 22:00. . BSW

ROMANIAN
CARU CU BERE
Should probably be the first stop on the food and drink list
of any visitor to Bucharest. Wonderful interiors - painted
ceilings, ornate woodwork - make the place an attraction
in itself, but do not leave without trying some food. The
breakfast is worth getting up early for, the sarmale with
mamaliga terrific, and the baked apple a simple, tasty
treat. They even serve their own rather good beer. The
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Old Town
service is usually good (now: it never used to be; back in
the 1980s and 1990s it was infamously bad) and there is
a terrace in summer. We should also mention the touristy
but nevertheless enjoyable folklore show which takes
place most evenings. Note that the buildings facade is
currently being renovated. The restaurant remains open
as usual.QC6, Str. Stavropoleos 5, MUniversitate, tel.
(+4) 021 313 75 60, www.carucubere.ro. Open 08:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
08:00 - 02:00. . PESW
CITY GRILLThey call these places your dining room in
the city, and given the homely food and cheap prices (the
lunchtime deals are just about unbeatable) they might
just be right. You can expect big portions of delicious,
often rather adventurous Romanian food, cooked and
presented wonderfully and always served with a smile. We
like the carnati de plescoi, tasty smoked sausages made
with mutton and pork, while there are also no fewer than
five types of mici on the menu. Theres a good selection
of local beers to choose from too. Recently renovated,
the place itself looks better than ever and as a reliable,
good value diner its hard to beat.QC6, Str. Lipscani 12,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0729 62 62 62/(+4) 021 314 24
89, www.citygrill.ro. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00
- 02:00, Also at (C-6) Str. Covaci 19, tel. (+4) 0727 62 62
62; (B-2) B-dul Primaverii 3, tel. (+4) 021 233 98 18 and
Calea Floreasca 175, tel. (+4) 0727 54 33 33. . PV
EBSW

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CRAMA DOMNEASCA
Right in the heart of Bucharests historic centre, this is
Romanian food of indeed historic proportions. You can
expect right royal portions of all your Romanian favourites, from spare ribs and mutton to tender pork steaks.
The home baked bread is always served warm (if it is not,
send it back) and the wine flows copiously as evenings get
longer and longer. Its the kind of place where you will be
discretely but contentedly loosening your belt before the
night is done.QC6, Str. Selari 13-15, MPiata Unirii, tel.
(+4) 0758 33 30 00, www.cramadomneasca.net. Open
12:00 - 24:00, Mon 14:00 - 24:00. . PESW
HANUL LUI MANUC (HANUL MANUC, MANUCS
INN) Built in 1808 the enormous, three-level Hanul lui
Manuc (Manucs Inn) is one of Europes last remaining caravanserai. The interior courtyard is a spectacular sight and
essential for any visitor to Bucharest, not least the grand
staircase to your left as you enter from Strada Franceza. A
hostelry ever since it opened the Han has seldom looked
better, and is currently home to two restaurants: Manucs
Bistro (which serves Romanian food: good mici) and Levantin, a Lebanese eatery. There is also a Starbucks cafe,
and in summer the courtyard is packed. Note that if you
sit upstairs on the balcony you annoyingly need to sit at
certain tables - it is not always clear which - if you want to
order food.QC6, Str. Franceza, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
021 313 14 11/(+4) 0769 07 58 44, www.hanulluimanuc.
ro. Open 11:00 - 01:00. . EBSW

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Old Town

LACRIMI SI SFINTI Romanian poet, revolutionary and

raconteur Mircea Dinescus latest culinary adventure is
this classy and rather big place in the Old Town. As much
a showcase for the (very good) wines Dinescu produces
on his country estate as anything else, the food is good:
a selection of traditional Romanian dishes given a playful
twist, with a big focus on game. Indeed, just about everything served here comes from Dinescus own estate. The
roasted duck with cabbage and the courgette patties are
our particular favourites on the menu: look out for the
daily specials (chalked up on a blackboard) too. The prices
are decent enough - although not cheap, but quality this
high never can be - and the place is charmingly decorated (look out for the quirky signs for the loos, made from
Lego). You will want to stay way after you have finished
your meal.QC6, Str. Sepcari 16, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
0372 77 39 99/(+4) 0725 55 82 86, www.lacrimisisfinti.
com. Open 12:30 - 02:00, Mon 18:00 - 02:00, Closed until
23 August. . PESW

SEAFOOD
MARIN SEAFOOD GRILL Brilliant: this place looks as
though it belongs in Croatia. Why go for a kebab when for
much the same price you can get fresh, tasty sardines with
grilled veggies? Or a magnificently hot fish soup? Pay a bit
more (but still a pittance) and you can feast on mussels,
squid and octopus: the kind that melts in the mouth. Tiny,
it has a large terrace out on the street at this time of year.
If you like seafood you will love it.QC6, Str. Gabroveni
4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 84 75. Open 12:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 05:00. . SW

riei 17, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 10 01 93, www.

interbelic.ro. Open 18:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 18:00 05:00. PENW
LABORATORUL DE COCKTAILURI
A cocktail bar (there is beer too, of course, on tap, as well
as hundreds of teas) where everything has been thought
out to the minutest detail. The name means Cocktail Factory, so you get your Tom Collins or Mojito or whatever
takes your fancy in a conical flask, while the bar itself looks
like an old pharmacy. Unusually, they have even invested
in decent bar stools. Trendy without overdoing it. Commendable.QC6, Str. Stavropoleos 8, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 0722 52 80 40. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00
- 06:00. PENW

BARS: UPMARKET
THE BAZAAR Club Tropicana. Its not every day you see
a palm tree or two in a Bucharest bar, neither are there
too many places in Old Town as big as this: theres upstairs (complete with comfy armchairs), downstairs, and
on warmer evenings everyone spills out on to the street
outside. On one of Old Towns less-crowded streets this
is a good alternative to the madness elsewhere. Music is
loungesque, supplied by a DJ who knows his tunes. Fun
and sunshine, the drinks are not free.QC6, Str. Covaci 10,
MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0721 99 99 99, www.thebazaar.
ro. Open 10:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00. PW

BARS: COCKTAILS & QUIRKY

INTERBELIC
Having moved from its previous, hidden location you
could have forgiven this now legendary bar for going
mainstream: the good news it that it hasnt. Interbelic still
has that speakeasy feel, like a well-kept secret amongst
people in the know. The new location is bigger, serves
food, has live music some evenings but is still first choice
to bring somebody you really want to impress with your
insiders knowledge of Bucharest.QC6, Calea Victo58 Bucharest In Your Pocket

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Old Town

THE DRUNKEN LORDS

Its alright this place: worth looking out for. In a side street
between Lipscani and Blanari, you will find a good, lively
pub playing decent music and offering a vibe a little more
upmarket than most other places in the Old Town (especially those in and around this little alleyway). Hosts live
music, sports and regular cultural events. Very cool.QC6,
Intr. Nicolae Selari 3-5, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0736
23 88 15, www.thedrunkenlords.ro. Open 12:00 - 5:00.
PEBSW

WINE BAR
ABELS WINE BAR Genuinely gorgeous little wine bar
one of the most character-filled streets in the Old Town.
This place oozes charm from every corner, its simple yet
striking decor a refreshing change from some of the more
gaudy places in the area. Stocks a wide selection of terrific
wine from all over the world, and most are available by the
glass. Theres also tea, very good coffee and long drinks.
You will love it.QC6, Str. Nicolae Tonitza 10, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0371 03 36 43, www.abelswinebar.ro.
Open 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. PSW

PUBS
BARBERO A Lipscani bar that we liked the moment we
first walked in. The whole place is brightly tiled and done
in the style of an old barbers shop (as the name might
suggest). We love the red lamps hanging down over the
(long) bar, designed to look like old hair dryers. Good music, usually provided by a DJ, and well priced drinks.QC6,
Str. Lipscani 38, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0767 50 80 80.
Open 12:00 - 05:00. PW
BEER OCLOCK
This little pub in Pasajul Villacrosse has probably the
biggest selection bottled beers in the city: so it is aptly
named. With brews from all over the world you could drink
a different beer every night for a month and not try the
same one twice. Whats more, besides the beer they also
have the appropriate glass in which to serve it: great attention to details. Tiny, with only a few places to sit, its worth
reserving if you want to be sure of a seat. Note: there is
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now a much bigger Beer OClock on Strada Gabroveni further down in Old Town, with a large terrace on the street.
Nevertheless we prefer the tiny original.QC6, Pasajul Vilacrosse, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0767 23 33 35, www.
beeroclock.ro. Open 16:00 - 02:00, Also at (C-6) Str. Gabroveni 4. Open 17:00 - 02:00. PBSW
BIUTIFUL When you walk in, you will see where the
name comes from: it is indeed biutiful, an enormous industrial-chic space with a little added glamour (check out
the lights and the comfy sofas), creating a rather special
atmosphere rather like an upmarket, contemporary central London bar and grill. The food is more than decent salads, tapas and burgers - with the beef and horseradish
sandwich a confirmed winner; The fish and chips wasnt
bad either. A must visit for either drinks or food, preferably
both. Note that they only take reservations up to 19:00,
after that its first come first served.QC6, Str. Gabroveni 6-8, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0737 29 72 97, www.
biutiful.ro. Open 15:00 - 02:00, Mon 17:00 - 02:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 02:00. PBSW
BORDELLO
There is always something going on here, every night
of the week. From quiz nights and live music to the burlesque every Friday night, this is a one-stop shop for great
nights out. Theres Heineken, Murphys and Paulaner on
tap and Sky Sports on four screens. The food is great,
with some rather special tapas, including the ribs which
are just about the best weve ever had in Bucharest. At
the weekends, head downstairs to the Boudoir, and note
that upstairs is the new Mulanruj Dining Theatre, with
live cabaret on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights. You
cant miss this place by the way: just look for the tarts in
their underwear beckoning you in.QC6, Str. Selari 9-11,
MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0748 88 10 85, www.bordellos.
ro. Open 12:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri 12:00 - 05:00, Sat, Sun
13:00 - 05:00. PESW

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EXPAT PUB
Looking to become one of the citys default after-work
and expat venues, this place has plenty going for it, not
least the hands-on owners and the great staff: they clearly
know what an actual pub should look and feel like, which
is nothing less than revolutionary for this city. For instance,
its got a great wooden bar and proper stools so you can
sit at the bar itself. (We are fed up with Bucharest pubs
telling us we cant sit at the bar). Serves plenty of bitter
and hosts regular events, from theme parties and gaming
nights to karaoke. You will find this place at the northern
edge of the Old Town, at the end of the little alley that
runs from Lipscani to Blanari, opposite the church.QC6,
Str. Blanari 21, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0729 72 87 82,
office@expatpub.ro, www.expatpub.ro. Open 19:00 07:00. Closed Mon. Closed until 23 August.
EXPLORERS PUB A likeable Irish pub on Strada
Franceza whose biggest attraction - besides a more than
decent pint of Guinness - is the vast collection of maps
on the walls. We also like the fact that you can sit at the
bar on a proper bar stool, while the selection of food is
better - and more varied - than you would expect to find
at your average pub. Very nicely done indeed.QC6, Str.
Franceza 9, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0735 19 01 31, www.
explorerspub.ro. Open 12:00 - 03:00. PBSW
LA 100 DE BERI The name (as you might have guessed)
means 100 Beers, and thats exactly what they have here:
beer, and lots of it, from all over the world. In fact, looking
at the menu it would appear that they stock considerably
more than 100 beers, and there is more besides: shorts
and cocktails for those who dont fancy a beer. Nice long,
English-style bar at which you can sit all night and sample
as many beers as you can.QC6, Str. Covaci 8, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0784 24 60 46. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 05:00. PBW
OKTOBERFEST What makes this place so special is how
very ordinary it is. You will find the crowd more local than
foreign - never a bad thing - and ordinary out for a drink and
a good time locals at that, not the fitze crowd. The owners try to make something happen every night, whether its
football on the television or impromptu drinking competi60 Bucharest In Your Pocket

tions. The house Oktoberfest beer is a bargain. Upstairs is

Oktoberfest 2, which has a small terrace.QC6, Str. Selari 9 -11, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0724 33 32 33, www.
oktoberfest-pub.ro. Open 24hrs. Also Oktoberfest 3 at
(C-6) Str. Franceza 3. Open 10:00 - 07:00. PNBW

BEERHALLS
BERARIA SIEGFRIED Pork knuckles, plates of sausages and schnitzels the size of plates: thats what you are
getting at Siegfried. Impressively, they bring the ciolan
(knuckle) to your table to weigh it so you know exactly
how big a challenge you are setting yourself: trust us, they
are huge and only the very hungriest of diners will finish
one. The house beer is excellent and comes in a choice of
pils, white or unfiltered varieties, and is even available by
the metre.QB6, Str. Lipscani 29, MIzvor, tel. (+4) 0756
01 40 41, www.berariasiegfried.ro. Open 12:00 - 00:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. . PBSW
CURTEA BERARILOR Once upon a time the whole of
the Curtea Sticlarilor was given over to artisans - especially glassmakers - from whence the name. Now only a
few survive and no less than four bars have opened here.
This one has given itself the rather cheeky name Curtea
Berarilor (Brewers Courtyard), though there is no brewing
done on the site. Instead make do with plenty of on-tap
pints, of which the default option is Timisoreana.QC6,
Str. Selari 9-11, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 313 75 32,
www.curteaberarilor.com. Open 13:00 - 04:00, Mon,
Tue, Wed 13:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PBSW

LIVE MUSIC CLUBS

MOJO Of all the pubs and live music clubs in the Old
Town, this is the one you want to come to. Set over three
levels there is something for just about everyone. Upstairs
you have the best karaoke bar in the city - every night
from 21:00 - while the ground floor pub is packed with big
screens showing any sport that matters, including English
football via Sky Sports. Then there is the downstairs live
music club which hosts bands of all stripes - folk, jazz, rock
- most nights of the week. At weekends it is the busiest
club in town and stays open well into the next morning.
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Old Town
Holds English quiz nights twice a month, English stand-up
comedy once a month and all the drinks are a good price,
served by decent bar staff who will not keep you waiting.
QC6, Str. Gabroveni 14, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0760
26 34 96/(+4) 0746 04 65 60, www.mojomusic.ro. Open
13:00 - 05:00. PEW
NEW LOCATION
OLD CITY
Pay attention: its moved. No longer on Lipscani, you will
now find Old City on Strada Selari. The rest you know: it remains a very good, always lively pub and club with regular
live music and other events. Serves a decent range of very
good cocktails (a sweet-as-you-like mojito went down
very well with Mrs. In Your Pocket on our last visit) and
some pub grub that is far better than you would expect.
Big screens show football and the like, and it hosts loads
of theme nights, from Insane Wednesdays to Champagne
Saturdays.QC6, Str. Selari 14, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
0729 37 77 74, www.oldcity-bucharest.ro. Open 10:00 05:00. PEBSW
QETESH CLUB Much bigger than it initially looks from
the outside, make your way into this new club to find various rooms of inhibition where the good looking boys and
girls get down to a range of music provided by good local
DJs - a number of which are female. Cool. Long list of cocktails, a terrace out on the street when the sun shines and it
is open every night: not everywhere in Bucharest is. Also
opens early and is perfectly serviceable as a cafe during the

MOJO CLUB - 3 LEVELS OF FUN

long hot summer days.QC6, Str. Franceza 9, MUnirea,

tel. (+4) 0728 70 15 73. Open 10:00 - 04:00. PEBW

STUDENT & UNDERGROUND

KARAOKE EVERY NIGHT!

MORE SPORTS THAN SPORTS BARS

ALL MAJOR SPORTS

LIVE BANDS EVERY WEEKEND

FIND US ON GABROVENI 14

TEL: 0760263496

WWW.MOJOMUSIC.RO

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BASTARDS Is that really what it is called? Yes: that is really what it is called. In a Lipscani basement, with the walls
stripped back to the red brick, this is a cocktail bar and club
where the mood is different every night. It could be karaoke, it could be rock night, it could be a DJ spinning old
school electro tunes. Regardless of what is going on you
will probably enjoy it.QC6, Str. Lipscani 28, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0723 20 34 63, www.bastards.ro. Open
18:00 - 05:00, Wed, Thu, Sun 20:00 - 05:00. PENB
CLUB A This place is a legend. If you want a local, unpretentious, up-for-a-laugh studenty crowd getting down to
classic songs that you wont have heard for ages, this is the
one place in town you can be guaranteed to find it, every
night of the week. Live music on most weekend nights,
as well as all sorts of events during the week, from theme
nights to theatre.QC6, Str. Blnari 14, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 316 16 67, www.cluba.ro. Open 10:30 05:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 06:00. PEBW
FIRE CLUB A much-changed venue which over the past
year or so has shed its shabby-chic look and which has become a bigger, brighter and less smokey venue than ever
before. Still plays mainly rock for a crowd of the young and
not-so-young, and to be honest it is as good as ever. We
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Old Town
have always liked the place and if you want to go local
it is one of your better options in the Old Town. There is
also now Fire Pub out the back (although the entrance is
from Strada Covaci): a small yet rather good boozer with
a huge and very nice covered terrace/atrium.QC6, Str.
Gabroveni 12, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0732 16 66 04,
www.fire.ro. Open 10:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 06:00.
PBSW
KULTURHAUS Recently renovated and redesigned, this
remains the student favourite. Attracts a nakedly noncommercial crowd on two levels by offering hard rock,
folk rock, new wave, punk and indie upstairs, and pretty
much the same downstairs (though it depends on the DJ).
Has a live band playing at least once a week, bags of other
events and refreshingly says NO to table service: yes, you
will have to get your sorry ass to the bar to get a drink. We
are fans.QC6, Str. Sf. Vineri 4, MPiata Unirii/Universitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 55 92, www.kulturhaus.ro. Open
23:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PLEW

UPMARKET CLUBS
CLICHE CLUB & LOUNGE Eternally popular club on
Strada Smardan which has become something of an Old
Town institution over the past couple of years. A modern
and elegant place serving coffee and cocktails the music
caters pretty much to all tastes and there is always some
kind of party going on, not the least of which is Friday night,
when the place is rammed full of party people. Open all
day too, it has a big terrace, it shows loads of live football
and the comfy sofas for crashing on are a bonus.QC6, Str.
Smardan 41, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0729 05 62 54, www.
clubcliche.ro. Open 10:00-05:00. PEBSW
ENTOURAGE CENTRUL VECHI You will like this place.
A nice long bar, proper tall bar stools and even leather
armchairs for those who want to chill. Has a great terrace
in front of the National Bank building at this time of year.
Serves breakfast, lunch and dinner from one of the best
bar menus in Bucharest: you will find something on it you
fancy. There must be 100 lamps hanging down from the
ceiling: all different. Startlingly brilliant place, refreshingly
free of brewery branding too: always a bonus these days.
QC6, Str. Eugen Carada 5-7, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
0736 66 10 16, www.byentourage.ro. Open 10:00 02:00. PBSW
LA MUSE Last time we popped in we met up with almost
everyone we know in Bucharest. Thats the kind of place
this is: on the surface it looks posh and flash and out-ofyour-league (the lady at the entrance clutches a clipboard
as though her life depends on it) but it is in fact a downto-earth, come-as-you-are venue playing dance floor hits
from across the decades to a crowd a bit older than elsewhere, which can afford the prices of the drinks. We love
it.QC6, Str Lipscani 53, MPiata Unirii/Universitate, tel.
(+4) 0734 00 02 36/(+4) 0745 02 42 17, www.lamuse.ro.
Open 09:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00. PBW
62 Bucharest In Your Pocket

OLD TOWN SIGHTS:

HISTORIC BUILDINGS
BANCA NATIONALA A ROMANIEI
The National Bank (BNR) stands on the site of one of the
most famous buildings in Romania: the Hanul Serban
Voda, which from 1678 until 1883 was the home of various
things, from a pub, to an inn to a dormitory for a nearby
girls school. After two fires gutted the building however,
the land was levelled and in 1883 work began on the BNR,
completed to the designs of French architects Cassien
Bernard and Albert Galleron in 1885. The building boasts a
facade with Corinthian columns, and an enormous central
banking hall. The passing of time has seen the building become rather hemmed in, but it remains a classic worthy of
admiration.QC6, Str. Lipscani 25, MUniversitate.
CEC (PALATUL CASEI DE ECONOMII SI
CONSEMNAIUNI)
The home of the National Savings Bank (Casa de Economii
si Consemnaiuni; CEC) is one of the most fabulous NeoClassical facades in the city: the enormous arch that
houses the entrance, with its mighty Corinthian columns,
is a highlight of any architectural tour of Bucharest. Built
during the last decade of the nineteenth century, to the
designs of French architect Paul Gottereau, the building is
no less impressive on the inside, not least the huge entrance hall with its sensational glass roof, and dome that

STAG NIGHTS
As much as the city has tried to ignore the fact, Bucharest is quickly becoming a popular destination for that
scourge of Europes capitals: the stag night. Drawn by
cheap flights and the giveaway prices of drink and cigarettes, the Romanian capital - which managed to stay
off the stag radar for quite some time - finally appears
to have succumbed. While this is in general no bad
thing (stag parties spend as much money as any other
visitors to Bucharest, in many cases much more) not
all locals are happy about the influx, and that includes
a surprising number of bar, pub and club managers:
it might be worth phoning ahead to see if 25 blokes
in matching t-shirts will actually be welcome at your
venue of choice. Whats more, a number of seedy strip
and nightclubs (often little more than poorly disguised
brothels) have popped up in the Old Town like mushrooms after the rain, all hankering after the drunken
pound of the leery stag night reveller. Beware them all:
these places are rarely legitimate businesses and will
often part you of as much cash as you are carrying. If
you do have to indulge in what might be described as
clothes off activities head for a massage parlour (and
read the Vice Advice we publish on page 36).
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Old Town

nods towards the style of later Byzantine cathedrals. The

main halls are elaborately decorated with murals by Mihai
Simonidi.QB4, Calea Victoriei 13.

HISTORIC CHURCHES
DOAMNEI CHURCH (BISERICA MAICII DOMNULUI) One of Bucharests many hidden churches: find it in
the little courtyard behind Pizza Hut on the corner of Calea Victoriei and Bulevardul Regina Elisabeta. The church
dates from 1683, and was built on the orders of Princess
Maria, wife of Prince Serban Cantacuzino. The church was
the first in the city to boast octagonal stone pillars: note
the decorative floral motifs of oriental origin at the foot
and top of each column. They also decorate the door.
QC5, Calea Victoriei 28, MUniversitate.
OLD COURT PALACE & CHURCH (PALATUL I
BISERICA CURTEA VECHE)
The Old Court, first built on this site in the second part
of the 15th-century by Vlad epe, was considerably extended during the 16th century, by Mircea Ciobanul, and
again a century later, this time at the hand of Constantin
Brancoveanu, who added a splendid voievodal palace,
decorated with marble and icons. The palace was by and
large destroyed by a series of fires in the 19th century however, and subsequently neglected. Much of what remains
today was uncovered during archaeological digs that
took place from 1967-72, when the palace ruins were first
opened as a museum. There are fragments of the original
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15th century walls, as well as remnants of the voievodal

palace throne room, in which most of the relics found on
the site are exhibited. The whole complex is set to be restored this year. Next door to the palace is the Old Court
Church, the oldest in Bucharest, dating from 1545. It was
enlarged in 1715, during the reign of tefan Cantacuzino,
and the frescoes inside, painted by maestros Constantin
Lecca and Miu Papa, were added in 1847. The churchs exterior was recently renovated, and it looks better than ever.
QC6, Str. Franceza, MPiata Unirii. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon.
STAVROPOLEOS CHURCH (BISERICA STAVROPOLEOS) The church was built in 1724 at the insistence of a Greek monk, Ioanikie Stratonikeas. It is characterized by its beautiful stone and wood carvings, of which
the finest are on the main doors. The courtyard outside
(beautiful on a sunny afternoon) has a curious collection of
tombstones dating from the 18th century, and you might
often see skilled craftsmen working on restoring them.
QC6, Str. Stavropoleos 4, MUniversitate, tel. (+40) 21
313 47 47, www.stavropoleos.ro.
ST. DUMITRU CHURCH (BISERICA SF. DUMITRU
DE JURAMANT) St. Dumitru Church (Biserica Sf. Dumitru) dates back to the 15th century. It was destroyed in the
Great Fire of 1847 and the current building dates from 1852
but it has undergone numerous renovations due to damage from earthquakes. St. Dumitru is the patron saint of
Bucharest.QC6, Str. Postei 2, MPiata Unirii.
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Old Town
ST. NICHOLAS CHURCH (BISERICA SFANTUL
NICOLAE - BLANARI) The church was built in the
1880s as a private chapel for Romanias first royal couple:
Note that the king and queen still have special seats on
the left and right of the churchs 18th century icon kept
for them should they ever return. The icon itself is said by
churchgoers to have magical healing powers.QC6, Str.
Blanari 16, MUniversitate.
ST. NICHOLAS STUDENTS CHURCH (SFNTUL
NICOLAE BISERICA STUDENILOR) Currently being
renovated, this church was built in 1905-09 with a 600,000
gold rouble donation from Tsar Alexander II and is topped

LATE NIGHT FOOD

CALIF Besides serving decent standard kebabs, Calif
prides itself on also offering more than a few healthy
options, as well as a number of vegetarian kebabs and
dishes They also do what we will happily admit is a very
good lentil soup.QC-6, Str. Selari 19, MPiata Unirii,
tel. (+40) 21 310 15 62, www.calif.ro. Open 24hrs.
DIVAN EXPRESS With the flagship Divan restaurant now in Floreasca (see page 32), the former Divan
on Strada Franceza has become Divan Express: much
the same thing (great tasting food) but served from a
counter (there is no table service). It is a cut above your
average kebab shop and its popularity speaks volumes
for the quality of the food on offer.QC-6, Str. Franceza
46, MPiata Unirii. Open 24hrs.
DRISTOR DONER Legendary chain of kebab shops,
which began in Dristor but has now spread city wide,
even in to Old Town.QC-6, Str. Franceza 17, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 315 55 40, www.dristorkebap.ro.
Open 24 hrs. Also at (C-7) B-dul Marasesti 42, Calea
Vacaresti 391, B-dul Camil Ressu 1 and B-dul Timisoara 26.
GYROS THESSALONIKI In our opinion, this place
serves the best chicken kebab in Bucharest. Its a regular late-night haunt of ours and the queues speak for
themselves. Alongside the kebabs there are also salads, lamb dishes and sweets. Cheap too: its a winner.
QC-6, Str. Gabroveni 2, MPiata Unirii. Open 24hrs.
MCDONALDS The good news is McDonalds has
finally brought breakfast to Romania, so that much
sought-after Sausage and Egg McMuffin can now be
yours at most central Bucharest McDonalds outlets.
But only until 10:00, alas. We do wish they would serve
them all day.QC-6, P-ta Unirii 1 (Unirea Shopping
Centre), MPiata Unirii, www.mcdonalds.ro. Open
07:00-24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00-01:00. McDrive at (A-4)
Str. Dr. Felix 8-10, (E-6) Sos. Mihai Bravu 307, Sos.
Pierre de Coubertine 3-5, (C-3) Str. Barbu Vacarescu
146-158 and Str. Brasov 23A all open 24hrs.
64 Bucharest In Your Pocket

with seven typically Russian onion domes. The wooden,

gold-gilded iconostasis (catapeteasm) is allegedly a
copy of the altar in Arhangelsk Cathedral, in Moscows
Kremlin.QC5, Str. I. Ghica 9, MUniversitate.
ZLATARI CHURCH (BISERICA ZLATARI) The Zlatari
Church (Biserica Zlatari) was built in the 19th century on
the site of an earlier church, and is best known for its interior frescoes by Gheorghe Tatarescu. They were painted
from 1853-6. Frescoes also decorate the door.QC6, Calea
Victoriei 12, MUniversitate.

OLD TOWN MUSEUMS

NATIONAL HISTORY MUSEUM
(MUZEUL NATIONAL DE ISTORIE)
The beautiful, monumental and simply superb Neo-Classical building that houses Romanias National History Museum was constructed from 1894-1900 to the designs of
local architect Alexandru Svulescu. It originally served as
the headquarters of Pota Roman, the Romanian postal
service. When the post office moved away in 1970, the
History Museum moved in. The museums exhibitions are
spread over 60 display rooms, although many are currently
closed for renovation. The museums two most important
collections, however, are very much open: the Lapidarium
and the Romanian Treasury. The Lapidarium includes statues brought from a Bronze Age necropolis close to present day Cernavoda and what is probably the museums
finest exhibit, a full-scale replica of Trajans Column. The
Romanian Treasury includes jewellery from the time of
the Geto-Dacians, as well as the current Romanian Crown
Jewels, including the kings crown and an amazing selection of emeralds made for Queen Mary. The bizarre statue
on the museums steps - which appeared during May
2012 - allegedly represents the emperor Trajan holding a
wolf. It has not unsurprisingly been the subject of much
ridicule, and is a popular object for both locals and visitors
to ironically have their photo taken with.QC5, Calea Victoriei 12, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 82 07fax (+4)
021 311 33 56, pr@mnir.ro, www.mnir.ro. Open 10:0018:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 25 lei, pensioners 15
lei, students and children 7 lei.
SUTU PALACE / MUSEUM OF BUCHAREST
Much overlooked museum, despite its location in the very
centre of the city. The main exhibition is on the first floor,
the highlight of which is probably the selection of maps of
Bucharest through the ages, while there is also an original
log from the Podul Mogosoaia: the forerunner of Calea
Victoriei, in the days when the street was paved with logs.
The exhibition is well captioned in Romanian and English,
and while small an enjoyable hour can be spent here. You
will leave feeling as though you want more, however. Indeed, it could be argued that the real draw is the building
in which the museum is housed: the elegant, Neo-Gothic
uu Palace, built from 1833-4 for the wealthy merchant
Costache uu and recently reopened after a period of
renovation. The palace was for decades the scene of Bubucharest.inyourpocket.com

Old Town
charests grandest balls. The main staircase is particularly
opulent. The museum hosts a number of temporary exhibitions and various events, including astronomy evenings
when telescopes are available for star and planet watching.QC5, B-dul I.C. Bratianu 2, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
021 315 68 58, www.muzeulbucurestiului.ro. Open
10:00-18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 6 lei, 3 lei children, students and pensioners. Children under seven
free. Some temporary exhibitions cost extra.

ROMULUS & REMUS

In Piata Roma, at the entrance to Strada Lipscani, is this
statue of the Roman wolf nurturing Romulus and Remus. A replica of a similar monument in Rome, it was
a presented to the city by the Italian state in 1906, to
signify Romanias Latin origins. Officially called the
Lupa Capitolina, it has led a nomadic existence, and
was most recently kept in Piata Romana. It moved back
here to its original location in 2010. There are three
other identical statues around Romania, in Cluj, Targu
Mures and Timisoara.QC6, Piata Roma (Str. Lipscani).

PASAJUL VILLACROSSE
Today packed with cafes - most of which offer hookah
pipes and exotic tobaccos - Pasajul Macca-Vilacrosse
was built in 1891 as a conduit between Calea Victoriei - then the busiest street in the city - and the National Bank. It is named for a Catalan architect, Xavier
Villacrosse, who from 1840-50 was the chief architect
of Bucharest, and Mihalache Macca, son-in-law of the
buildings architect, Felix Xenopol. It is covered with an
arcade yellow glass roof to allow natural light, also intended to encourage commerce at street level. In other
words, this was Bucharests first shopping mall. During
the communist period the passage was known by the
name Pasajul Bijuteriei (Jewellery Passage) and hosted
the citys largest jewellers. Its original name was restored in 1990.QC6, Pasajul Macca-Vilacrosse; Calea
Victoriei, MUniversitate.

ROMANIAN FOOD
Romanian food, rich in Turkish, Hungarian and German
influences, is rather good. An example of top Romanian
fare is the classic sour soup, ciorba. Made of bor (a sour,
honey-coloured liquid made of wheat and cornflour),
the tradition of making sour soups is Ukrainian, but was
perfected in Moldavia and later Muntenia. In theory
anything can go into a ciorba, though the most popular are ciorba de legume (made with vegetables), ciorba
de vacuta (made with beef), ciorba de burta (made with
tripe) and ciorba de perioare (made with pork meatballs).
While you will often see ciorba de pui (ciorba made with
chicken), chicken is more popular in clear soups, served
with dumplings (galute), carrots and parsnips.
At more formal meals a number of cold appetizers
known as gustare reci will usually be served before the
ciorba. These include cheese, olives, spring onions, salami,
tomatoes and boiled eggs. Sometimes there may also be a
platter of warm appetizers (gustare calde), such as carnai de
plecoi (mutton sausages), ficaei de pui (chicken livers), ciuperci umplute (stuffed mushrooms), or mici. These are spicy
little sausage-shaped meatballs made of mutton, beef and
pork. They are delicious.
While main courses can sometimes be a disappointment,
there are always some superb options in good restaurants,
such as the celebrated sarmale (cabbage or vine leaves
stuffed with mince and rice), or tocania (thick stew, usually pork). If you see ciolan afumat on a menu, it is worth
trying: smoked pork knuckle served with beans. Romanian
pork in general is superb. Mamaliga is a Romanian version
of polenta made of cornmeal, whose stodginess has long
been compared to the Romanian temperament.
Though Romania boasts a not insignificant coastline along
the Black Sea, the standard of its seafood can be poor. There
is, however, an increasingly large number of specialist seafood restaurants in Bucharest, although much of the fish
they serve will be imported and priced accordingly. Look
out too for hamsii: tasty, deep fried anchovies.
Sweets in Romania are sweet indeed. Pancakes (clatite)
served with chocolate or jam and covered in sugar are a
popular dessert, as are papanai: deep fried doughnuts
filled with jam, or sometimes cottage cheese. Look out
too for Romanian cakes (prjituri), usually made with
lashings of fresh cream.
Finally, a note about some culinary habits you may come
across in the countrys restaurants. Fries, for example, often
come covered with grated cheese. When ordering you can
avoid this by stating fara branza pe cartofi prajii. There is
also a local habit of throwing sour cream (smntana) on
everything, especially in ciorbe and soups. A simple fara
smntana, v rog will suffice. Most bizarre however is the
local tendency to cover perfectly good pizza with ketchup.

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August - September 2015

65

Shopping
ROMANIAN BEER
Romania has a long, proud history of brewing good beer,
and while today there are just 20 breweries in the country (there were more than 120 breweries in 1989), such
statistics do not tell the whole story of beer in Romania,
which is far from being a sorry one. With large amounts of
investment from big foreign brewers the countrys best
known beers have been saved from extinction and improved, and in a number of cases new brews launched:
the current trend for unfiltered and lemon beers is one
such example. Fortunately for the visitor, improvements
in quality have not increased prices: Romania remains
home to one of the cheapest pints of beer in Europe.
The best known local brands of beer are probably Ursus,
Ciuc and Timisoreana. Ursus has been brewed since the
1870s, and if you ask locals what the national beer is, most
will respond Ursus. Both Ursus and Timisoreana (brewed
since 1718) are now owned by SAB Miller, which also produces the smaller brands Ciucas, Azuga and Stejar. Ciuc
(along with Silva) is owned by Heineken, while Carlsbergs
locally brewed Tuborg is also ubiquitous and popular. Other notable beers include Interbrews Bergenbier.
Unfiltered wheat beers (bere nefiltrata) are very popular
in Romania, the best probably being Ciucs, though you
should also keep a look out for Paulaners white beer, found
on tap in a number of Bucharest bars and pubs.
Also worth trying is the dark, bitter Ursus Black, a very
different beer to most local brews. Silvas Strong Dark
is similar and equally good. A few venues in Bucharest
have microbreweries, producing their own beer, or at
least serve their own bespoke brew made elsewhere:
Caru cu bere, Oktoberfest, Re:Public and Biutiful are four
such places. There arent that many craft beers in Romania, but there are a few if you know where to look. If you
get the chance, Zaguna is excellent: the London Street
Atelier (see page 31) always has it in stock.
Imported beers are popular amongst young, wealthy
urbanites, and you should never have too much trouble
finding the major international brands: Heineken, Carlsberg, Peroni, Leffe, Hoegaarden and Stella Artois are all
popular in Romania. And while imported beer is usually
a couple of lei more expensive than the local stuff, no
beer in Romania is likely to cost more than 10-12 lei, even
in a club or trendy bar. A pint (or the local equivalent)
of local draught (la halba) beer costs from 7-8 lei, often
even cheaper. The one exception is Guinness. Found all
over the country (it is very popular amongst Romanians)
it is also relatively expensive.
Key Romanian words on the beer front include la halba
(draught) and la sticla (bottled). In most bars and restaurants the menu lists draught and bottled beers separately.
66 Bucharest In Your Pocket

Bucharests main shopping areas are the shopping centres

and malls listed below, as well as B-dul Magheru and increasingly - Calea Victoriei.

BOOKSHOPS
ANTHONY FROST ENGLISH BOOKSHOP Stocks a
good range of fiction and non-fiction, plenty of childrens
books, and a decent selection of books about Romania
and Bucharest.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 45, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 311 51 38, www.anthonyfrost.ro. Open
10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
CRTURESTI Marvellous bookshop, gallery and small
cafe, all inside a gorgeous old Bucharest house in the very
centre of the city. During the summer, the superb Verona
Garden out the back is a good choice for lunch, dinner or
just drinks.QC-5, Str. Pictor Arthur Verona 13-15, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 317 34 59, www.carturesti.ro.
Open 10:00 - 22:00.

SHOPPING CENTRES
AFI PALACE COTROCENI One of Bucharests biggest
malls, and probably its best, with loads of top brand names
and the added attraction of an IMAX cinema, a large ice
skating rink (open year round) and even an indoor roller
coaster and childrens funfair.QB-dul Vasile Milea/B-dul
Timisoara, MPolitehnica, www.aficotroceni.ro. Open
10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:30.
BANEASA SHOPPING CITY
The largest mall in Bucharest. With more than 220 shops
it makes everywhere else look quite small. Just past the
old Baneasa airport you can get here on buses 131 or 301
from Piata Romana.Qos. Bucureti-Ploieti 42D, www.
baneasashoppingcity.ro. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Restaurants Open 10:00 -23:00.
BUCURESTI MALL
Recently extended in a major redevelopment, this place when opened in 1999 - was the first mall in the city. Loads
of shops, including Marks & Spencer and H&M.QE-7, Calea
Vitan 55-59, www.bucurestimall.com.ro. Open 10:00 22:00.
PROMENADA MALL
Opened in October 2013, this is currently Bucharests most
talked-about mall. Featuring the usual mix of top stores,
restaurants there is also a rooftop recreation area (pictured
below), but no cinema.QCalea Floreasca 246B, MAurel
Vlaicu, www.promenada.ro. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
UNIREA SHOPPING CENTRE A good shopping centre in the heart of the city. There are fashion stores on the
first and second floors with electronics and kids shops on
floors three and four. An excellent Mega Image supermarket can be found in the basement.QC-6, Piata Unirii 1,
MPiata Unirii, www.unireashop.ro. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
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Shopping
LOCAL DESIGNERS

BURBERRY

For clothes by local designers, check out the huge Ro-

The legendary British label Burberry has landed in Bucharest, having opened a flagship store at the Radisson
Blu.QB-4, Str. Luterana 4, tel. (+4) 021 314 14 14,
ro.burberry.com. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00,
Sun 12:00 - 19:00.

manian Designers Gallery on the second floor of the

Cocor Department Store, at (C-6) B-dul Ion Bratianu
29-33. You will find a wide range of designs by many of
Romanias best designers. Another option is Band of

Creators at (C-5) Str. Benjamin Franklin 14 (www.bandofcreators.com).

MARKETS
Bucharest is home to a number of good markets, most of
which stock a wide range of produce, at prices often (but
not always) cheaper than the supermarkets. There are very
good produce markets at Piata Norilor (a short walk from
Tineretului metro station) and the infamous Obor (E-4; take
the metro to Obor). Beyond the produce markets there are
a couple of bazaar-type places worth visiting, not least
Complex Comercial Rahova, a place that stocks cheap
everything. Take tram No. 32 from Piata Unirii to (almost)
the end of the line to find it. Then there is Targul VitanBarzesti, which every Sunday morning becomes Bucharests biggest and busiest flea market. Its mayhem. More
or less everything you can imagine can be found here, all
prices negotiable. Bus No. 123 from Piata Unirii will get you
there. Be brave.

SOUVENIRS
MUZEUL TARANULUI ROMAN (PEASANT MUSEUM) The shop at the Peasant Museum has an outstanding
selection of souvenirs and gifts. Of particular note are the
traditional peasant clothes, as well as the icons and naive
art.QB-3, os. Kiseleff 3, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021
317 96 61. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
PAIDEIA Wonderful local gifts, including books, posters,
greetings cards, objets dart and even Romanian delicacies,
from refined palinca to gourmet salts and honey.QB-dul
Nicolae Balcescu 2-4 (Hotel InterContinental), MUniversitate, www.cadouriculturale.ro. Open 10:00 - 16:00.
Also at (C-6) Unirea Shopping Centre (Ground Floor).
SECOND CHANCE A wide range of good Romanian
souvenirs handmade by people from disadvantaged
backgrounds.QSos.Bucuresti-Ploiesti 42D (Baneasa
Shopping City), tel. (+4) 0726 17 36 43, www.romaniahandmade.ro. Open 10:00 - 22.00.
SOUVENIR SHOP Everything you would want from a decent souvenir shop and more besides. We came across the
best Dracula T-Shirts weve seen so far here, complete with the
slogan: Send more tourists, the last ones tasted great.QC-5,
Str. Smardan 13, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 32 25 40,
www.souvenir-shop.com.ro. Open 10:00 - 20:00.
facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

WINE
DIONYSIS
Super little place on the edge of the Old Town. Its a wine
bar and shop where you can find a fine selection of selfimported wines, tasting them all at one of the big wooden
tables before you buy. You can also just pop in for a glass
or two, although in our experience once weve sat down at
this charming place we tend not to get up again until closing time.QC-6, Str. Covaci 19, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021
31 00 580. Open 14:00 - 22:30, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 01:30.
ETHIC WINE
Wonderful wine shop, run by a friendly Englishman and
his lovely wife, both of whom really know their stuff. There
is a wide range of local grape, as well as a good selection
of wines from Cricova in the Republic of Moldova.QC-3,
Str. Banu Antonache 55, tel. (+4) 0722 63 37 89, www.
ethicwine.ro. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00-14:00.
THE WINERY OUTLET
Bucharest outlet of the excellent Halewood Winery. You
will find some of the best wines produced in Romania
sold here.QSos. Mihai Bravu 132, tel. (+4) 021 252 10 32,
www.halewood.com.ro. Open 09:30 - 21:30, Sun 09:30
- 14:30.
VINEXPERT
There is always something worth spending your money
on here, whether its the latest vintage from Cricova, or
more prosaic delights such as Unicum (Vinexpert being
one of the few places in Romania where we have found
said liqueur). Will deliver.QD-6, B-dul Octavian Goga 24,
tel. (+4) 021 327 49 74, www.evinoteca.ro. Open 09:00 21:00. Closed Sun. Also at (C-6) Unirea Shopping Center
(P-a Unirii 1).

SPORT COUTURE
Sport Couture at the Baneasa Mall stocks a wide range
of leading brands (DKNY, Fred Perry, Diesel etc.) alongside
Burberry and Burberry Kids. QBaneasa Shopping City,
1st Floor, tel. (+4) 0768 64 79 64, www.sportcouture.
ro. Open 10:00-22:00.
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67

STAY HILTON. GO RELAX.

GO SWIMMING.
Accommodation in double room with half board;
Free access to the SPA Hilton Sibiu: swimming pool, Jacuzzi,
Finnish sauna, aromatic sauna,infrared sauna, steam bath,
Kneipp bath, relaxation and meditation rooms, fitness;
10% discount on spa therapies from the standard brochure;
Free of charge for children up to 12 years;
Open air playground for children;
Free internet.
2 nights package: 109 euro/ person
3 nights package: 139 euro/ person
4 nights package + 1 free: 199 euro/ person
Optional (extra costs involved):
Full board: 15 euro/ person.
Single use supplement: 35 euro/ night. Royal Suite supplement: 60 Euro/ night.
Executive Suite supplement: 80 Euro/ night. The prices include taxes.
Secured parking with an extra charge.
City tour, rent a bike, tennis, ATV, horse riding, museum visits.
The offer is valid in the period: 05th of May 30th of September.

For reservations, contact 0269 505 600 or info.sibiu@hilton.com

Padurea Dumbrava 1 | Sibiu 550399 | Romania

Hotels

With the exception of the five-star hotels listed in the

Cream of the Crop category, the price bands used refer to
the rack rate for a double room.

CREAM OF THE CROP

ATHENEE PALACE HILTON
The Athenee Palace has been one of Bucharests finest
hotels for 100 years. It is a living piece of the citys history
- it dates from 1914 and celebrated its centenary last autumn with one of the best parties Bucharest has ever seen.
Books have been written about the goings on at this place
(Rosie Waldecks Athene Palace, to be precise). Yet behind
its historic facade you will find a most modern place to
stay. There is a wide range of rooms to choose from: the
best are those with views over Piata Revolutiei. Besides
the amazing accommodation, the Hilton also offers an
indoor pool and health club, terrific onsite dining and you
should not forget that this is also of course the home of
the English Bar: probably Bucharests most famous (or indeed infamous) drinker.QC-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3, tel. (+4)
021 303 37 77, www.hiltonbucharest.com. 272 rooms.
POTHR6UFLGKDCW
CROWNE PLAZA BUCHAREST Contemporary and
welcoming, the Crowne Plaza Bucharest offers all the reassuring global standards you would expect of the brand,
from first class accommodation to world class facilities. With
a renowned reputation for individual and friendly service,
the hotel can also offer the greenest setting in the capital,

BUCHAREST MONOPOLY
We have long said that this should be the first thing on
any list of must-have Romanian souvenirs. The classic
board game has been given a local twist, the streets of
London (or whichever other city you are familiar with)
replaced with the streets of Bucharest. The cheapest
property on the board is Rahova, while the most expensive is Bulevardul Primaverii. Found in most good
toy shops and hypermarkets, it sells for around 90 lei.
facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

surrounded as it is by beautifully maintained grounds. Can

also boast a large swimming pool, big, comfortable rooms
(and bathrooms to match) and some outstanding drinking and dining options.QA-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1, tel. (+4)
021 224 00 34, www.crowneplaza.com/bucharest. 164
rooms. PTHRUFGKDCW
EPOQUE Now heres a hotel we have no problem in recommending. Opened during the Autumn of 2010 the Epoque has a number of things going for it, not least its location on the edge of Cismigiu Park: close enough to the heart
of the city yet at the same time offering the impression of a
retreat. Rooms are large and tastefully furnished, there are
plenty of extras (not least a plunge pool), breakfast is good
and for what you get, the prices are a steal.QB-5, Str. Intrarea Aurora 17C, tel. (+4) 021 312 32 32, www.hotelepoque.
ro. 44 rooms. PTHRUFLGKDCW
GRAND HOTEL CONTINENTAL Making the very best
of a wonderful building (which dates from 1886) on chic
Calea Victoriei, todays Grand Hotel Continental is the result
of more than two years of loving renovation and restoration. Theres marble at every turn, though do not think
that modern touches are missing, for they are not. The
audio-visual systems in the rooms for example are state
of the art. QC-5, Calea Victoriei 56, MUniversitate, tel.
(+4) 0372 01 03 00, www.grandhotelcontinental.ro. 59
rooms. PTHR6UFLGKDW
HOWARD JOHNSON GRAND PLAZA BUCHAREST HOTEL This is a high-rise hotel in the busy centre
of Bucharest, where the sleek, modern exterior is matched
by the interiors, all of which carry the signatures of topname designers. The breakfast is perhaps the best in the
city, coming as it does with complimentary champagne,
and the dining opportunities in general here are excellent: there is a wonderful (if expensive) Japanese restaurant, Benihana, on site. Great views of the city from the
upper floors. Note that the Howard Johnson is set to become a Sheraton later this year.QB-3, Calea Dorobantilor
5-7, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 201 50 00, www.
hojoplaza.ro. 285 rooms. POTHR6UFL
GKDW
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69

Hotels
INTERCONTINENTALStill the tallest hotel in Bucharest
(complete with a swimming pool and - during the summer, sun terrace - on the top floor) the InterContinental
was the first major five star hotel to open in Romania, at
the beginning of the 1970s. Today it is one of many but remains something of a first choice for journalists and business people, many of whom have been loyal guests for
decades. The rooms here all boast big balconies with great
views of the city, there is first class dining in the building,
and the management is commendably hands-on. The
new Club Lounge on the 21st floor is the best in the city, offering great views of Bucharest, cocktails, meeting rooms,
internet, a library and an all round exclusive atmosphere.
Non-guests can use the Club Lounge for 35 per day.QC5, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu 2-4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
021 310 20 20, www.intercontinental.com/bucharest.
257 rooms. POTHR6FLGKDCW
JW MARRIOTT BUCHAREST GRAND HOTEL
To the south of Casa Poporului the JW Marriott occupies
something of a palatial building that at first glance probably makes it the most immediately impressive of Bucharests big five star hotels. The scale of the place, and
its cavernous interiors, betray the fact that it was built as
part of the same grand plan as the Casa Poporului itself.
Yet the rooms are homely and well-furnished, providing
a welcome contrast to the building. Plenty of good dining
options, and home to the biggest swimming pool in the
city (we think).QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90, tel. (+4)
021 403 00 00, www.jwmarriottbucharest.com. 401
rooms. POTHR6UFLGKDCW
NOVOTEL BUCHAREST CITY CENTRE
Few locations are better than this, right on fashionable
Calea Victoriei. The entrance is impressive: a replica of the
old neoclassical National Theatre which stood on this exact site until the British bombed it to next week during
the Second World War. Shiny and new the main part of
the hotel is wonderful: rooms are big, with bathrooms
particularly impressive. Excellent, lively lobby bar and a
big indoor swimming pool are other added benefits of
staying here.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 37B, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 308 85 00, www.novotel.com. 258 rooms.
POTHR6UFLGKDCW

70 Bucharest In Your Pocket

LOCAL ART
Look out for craft fairs being held at the citys better museums in order to find some gorgeous naive art. The Peasant
Museum hosts regular such fairs, usually once a month.
Suvenir de Bucuresti, a small art gallery specialising in
classic scenes of Bucharest always has a great selection
of paintings for sale: find it on (C-5) Strada Academiei.
Galateca on (C-5) Strada C. A. Rosetti is a gallery of applied art, housed in the rather splendid University Library on Piata Revolutiei. Its shop sells fashion and accessories from a number of top local designers.
PREMIER PALACE South-west of the city centre in
the suburb of Ghencea (opposite Steaua Bucharests stadium) is the Premier Palace, a luxurious place which offers what is without doubt the best spa in the city (and
entrance to which is free for hotel guests). The rest of the
hotel is fabulous too, with the big rooms all packed with
added extras, right down to the Salvatore Ferragamo
cosmetics in the bathroom. Staff are superb and happy
to arrange taxis to and from town.QB-dul Ghencea 134,
tel. (+4) 031 407 60 00, www.premierpalace.ro. 82
rooms. PTHFLGKDCW
PULLMAN BUCHAREST WORLD TRADE CENTER
The spacious, luxurious rooms are the main attraction at
this high rise in the north of the city, where the bathrooms
boast perhaps the deepest bathtubs in the city. There are
separate showers, and all in all we think that the square-meterage-per-euro ratio is higher here than anywhere else in
Bucharest. A good on-site steak house keeps you well fed,
and though there is no pool there is a good fitness centre
with sauna and massage available.QA-1, P-ta Montreal
10, tel. (+4) 021 318 30 00, www.pullmanhotels.com.
203 rooms. PTHR6UFLGKDW
RADISSON BLU A gleaming temple of steel and glass
amongst the more classical buildings of Calea Victoriei,
the Radisson excels in playing the role of futuristic Bucharest hotel of choice. As you walk in the glass bar strikes
you as daring and modern, and the rooms themselves are

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Hotels

equally avant garde in design. Bathrooms offer both tubs

and showers, and there is both an indoor and outdoor
pool, so you can swim whatever the weather. Excellent
restaurants, especially the sublime Prime Steaks and Seafood.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81, tel. (+4) 021 311 90 00,
www.radissonblu.com/hotel-bucharest. 718 rooms.
PHRUFLGKDCW

OVER 150
CISMIGIU One of the most famous hotels in Bucharest (there
is even a song about the place: Hotel Cismigiu, by Vama Veche).
In a fantastic location right in the heart of the city, millions have
been spent making the hotel look better than at any time in
its century-old history. The contemporary rooms - all of which
are in fact suites - are enormous, many even boasting kitchens. Theres a fitness centre, wifi throughout, a great breakfast
is included and there is even onsite parking. Worth every
penny.QC-5, B-dul Regina Elisabeta 38, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 031 403 05 00, www.hotelcismigiu.ro. 60 rooms.
PTHRUFLGKW
NH BUCHAREST Not located in the most attractive
area of the city, the NH makes up for that by offering a
modern, contemporary hotel experience for a fair amount
of money: you can usually stay here for far less than the
rack rates. Expect well sized rooms with plenty of extras
and a very good on site restaurant. Good place to stay
with children and babies: the staff make a point of making them feel welcome.QD-6, B-dul Mircea Voda 21, tel.
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(+4) 021 300 05 45, www.nh-hotels.com. 76 rooms.

PTHRUFLGKW
MERCURE Romanias first Mercure hotel opened in early
November 2014 in a great location just behind the Atheneum. The rooms are well-sized, superbly decorated and
come with loads of extras, from espresso machines to fluffy
bathrobes. And all at a very reasonable price. Free Wifi
throughout, and the building itself is an elegant, modern
construction with a striking, sublime mural on one side.
QB-5, Str. George Enescu 17A, tel. (+4) 0758 58 30 00,
www.mercure.com. 114 rooms. PTHFLKW
RAMADA BUCHAREST PARC
The Hotel Parc has been around a while, but only came
under the Ramada banner a short while ago. A high-rise
in a leafy suburb (close to Romexpo and Herastrau Park
- hence the name) it boasts nice rooms which - while not
huge - are comfortable and boast brightly coloured dcor
and gorgeous, soft cotton sheets on the beds. Great buffet
breakfast included in the price.QA-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 3-5,
tel. (+4) 021 549 20 00, www.ramadabucharestparc.ro.
267 rooms. PHRGKW
RAMADA MAJESTIC Standing (dare we say it) majestically on Calea Victoriei, the Majestic has long been one of
Bucharests best hotels. It offers very big rooms with glorious bathrooms, a great breakfast and - a real bonus - a
swimming pool (albeit a rather small one). In a city in which
even some of the five star hotels lack pools, the Majestics
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71

Hotels
The rooms are big and furnished in a modern style, with
unobtrusive colours and smart lines. Bathrooms are good,
and the range of free cosmetics is impressive. Top onsite
restaurant too, the 1880.QB-4, B-dul Iancu de Hunedoara 54, tel. (+4) 0372 08 00 80, www.capitalplaza.ro. 95
rooms. PTHRUFLGKW
DUKE
Now this place is central. A proverbial stones throw from
Piata Romana, this modern hotel is squeezed in to a tight
spot between two classic Bucharest buildings of the past.
Rooms are well-sized, bathrooms have tubs and showers,
and theres free and fast Wifi throughout. Beds get high
marks for their excellent mattresses.QC-4, B-dul Dacia
33, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 317 41 86, www.
hotelduke.ro. 37 rooms. PRGKW
RESIDENCE ARC DE TRIOMPHE
Fantastic hotel in a good area of the capital, offering large,
excellent value rooms and super services. There are little
touches of class all over the hotel that suggest they really
care. The wrought iron beds, for example, are fabulous, as
is the newly added spa, complete with sauna and jacuzzi.
The restaurant is also worth a visit, serving good international cuisine.QA-3, Str. Clucerului 19, tel. (+4) 021 223
19 78/(+4) 0372 15 07 00, www.residencehotels.com.ro.
35 rooms. PTHRLGKDW
makes it well worth that little bit extra cash.QB-4, Calea
Victoriei 38-40, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 27 72,
www.ramadamajestic.ro. 111 rooms. PTHRU
FLGKDCW
RAMADA PLAZA BUCHAREST Slightly more upmarket than its sister establishment across the road, what
you get here is a slightly bigger room than at the Parc,
and much bigger bathrooms. The design of the place is
nicely futuristic, and we loved the beds which we think
are amongst the best in Bucharest. There is a good lobby
bar and a decent on site bistro.QB-dul Poligrafiei 3-5, tel.
(+4) 021 549 30 00, www.ramadaplazabucharest.ro.
298 rooms. PHRUFGKW

100-150
ANGELO AIRPORTHOTEL BUCHAREST The hotel
closest to Bucharests Otopeni airport. The Angelo is operated by Vienna International Hotels & Resorts, and its bright
exterior is matched by the interior: bold colours abound in
all the rooms and the common areas. There is high speed
Wifi throughout, and a fitness centre complete with sauna.
Transport to and from the airport is complimentary. Great
buffet breakfast. QCalea Bucurestilor 283, tel. (+4) 021
203 65 00, www.angelo-bucharest.com. 177 rooms.
PTHR6UFLGKDW
CAPITAL PLAZA Smart place at the northern edge of
the city centre, about five minutes walk from Piata Victoriei.
72 Bucharest In Your Pocket

RESIDENCE DOMENII PLAZA A wonderful villa, this

place offers real luxury and a quiet, understated atmosphere. Its a classy place for classy people, basically. All the
rooms, studios and apartments are bright, big and have
stunning bathrooms. It also has a fantastic spa, complete
with sauna, steam bath and enormous jacuzzi, perfect for
tired business types in need of evening relaxation. The food
in the restaurant is outstanding.QA-2, Str. Al. Constantinescu 33, tel. (+4) 021 224 50 44, www.residencehotels.
com.ro. 33 rooms. PTHRLGKDW

UNDER 100
BOUTIQUE HOTEL MONACO A nice place on a
quiet(ish) street yet still close enough to the city centre
to be within walking distance. There is an elegance to the
decoration that suggests theyve taken real time and effort over things, and the beds are large, comfortable and
covered with crisp yet soft sheets. Wifi, flatscreen TVs,
good bathrooms. The kind of place you feel should cost a
lot more than it does: seriously good value for money.QC5, Str. J. L. Calderon 74, tel. (+4) 021 310 56 68, www.
hotelmonaco.ro. 8 rooms. PTLW
CARO The Caro is in fact three hotels in one: the Caro
Golf, a four-star establishment offering very swish rooms,
the Caro Parc: one of the best three-stars in the city, and
the outstanding value budget two-star Caro Horoscop. All
three offer bright rooms with excellent bathrooms, and
there is terrific buffet breakfast in the Belvedere restaurant.
The surroundings are leafy and yet the citys business disbucharest.inyourpocket.com

Hotels
OLD TOWN HOTELS
EUROPA ROYALE BUCHAREST The Europa Royale
is a gorgeous place that complements instead of overpowering its surroundings. Literally a stones throw from
where Bucharest began, at the Curtea Veche, facing Piata
Unirii, it is as ideally located as you ever hope for. Inside
the rooms are big, classy and we found the staff exemplary. QC-6, Str. Franceza 60, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
021 319 17 98, www.europaroyale.com. 92 rooms.
PTH6UGKW
REMBRANDT The Rembrandt is what happens when
people with taste renovate buildings in Old Town Bucharest (the gorgeous cafe next door belongs unsurprisingly to the same people). Luxurious without
overdoing it, expect to find original 1920s wooden
floors and period furnishings complimented by up-tothe-minute technology.QC-5, Str. Smardan 11, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 93 15, www.rembrandt.ro.
16 rooms. PTRUGKW

trict is just across the street. There is free wifi at the Caro
Golf.QC-1, B-dul Barbu Vcrescu 164A, MAurel Vlaicu,
tel. (+4) 021 208 61 00, www.carohotel.ro. 188 rooms.
PTH6UFLKDCW
CHARTER For what you pay at this hotel, you get a large
amount of room indeed. Really: these must be the biggest hotel rooms in Bucharest, and they cost about 1 per square metre. Close to the airport this place is perfect if you have an early
flight, though it is only fair to say that it is a good 30 minutes
or so to the city centre. Still, with rooms and services to match
anywhere, and at very low prices, we doubt anyone will be
complaining.QDrumul Odaii 1D, Otopeni, tel. (+4) 021 352
87 19, www.hotelcharter.ro. 21 rooms. PTRLGW

TANIA-FRANKFURT This is a cracking little place in the

very heart of Old Town, just a shake or two away from the
citys best nightlife. Rooms are good value, bright and airy,
and are furnished in a modern, bright and airy style. The
best is the split level sky room, with its sky light and raised
sleeping area. Theres free internet for guests.QC-6, Str.
Selari 5, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 319 27 58, www.
taniahotel.ro. 13 rooms. PRGKW
Z EXECUTIVE BOUTIQUE HOTEL
In a building on a street hidden a little behind the
Sutu Palace this is a great place from which to enjoy
the delights of Old Town and indeed the whole of central Bucharest. Rooms are big and modern, tastefully
furnished and come with comfortable beds and good
bathrooms. The breakfast room is great, and theres
an on site bistro with great views of the busy streets
outside.QC-5, Str. Ion Nistor 4, MUniversitate, tel.
(+4) 031 140 02 00, www.zhotels.ro. 21 rooms.
PTHR6ULGKW

DAN Serving a terrific buffet breakfast (until 11:00) this

hotel has long been one of our favourites. Its location a
short distance from the city centre is good, and the rooms
are well sized, as are the bathrooms: all of which have
tubs, not just showers. Good, friendly staff and the kind of
homely atmosphere you would expect of a small well-run
hotel.QB-4, B-dul Dacia 125, tel./fax (+4) 021 210 39 58,
www.hoteldan.ro. 15 rooms. PHRULGW
DOUBLETREE BY HILTON Located just off Bulevardul
Unirii, the DoubleTree is something of a beacon of glass and
steel in an area not known for anything except monumental socialist architecture. The hotel is a decent place offering big-ish rooms, with commendably big bathrooms.
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Hotels
HELLO HOTELS
Two stars never looked so good. For your paltry amount
of cash you are getting a lot of hotel room here, complete
with flat screen televisions and mattresses thicker than
many a five-star. Bathrooms are a bit pokey but they are
more than adequate, and as far as value for money goes
we think this is one of the best deals in the city. Find the
place a short walk from the station.QB-4, Calea Grivitei
143, MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 0372 12 18 00, www.
hellohotels.ro. 150 rooms. PR6ULGKW
IBIS GARA DE NORD
A hotel for more than 40 years this building (and the whole
area) was given a real lift when it became a good old Ibis
some several years ago now. Expect a room a bit bigger
than standard Ibis size, the usual services, few frills (breakfast costs extra) and all in all a good value stay. The name is
not misleading: it is dead opposite the station.QA-4, Calea Grivitei 143, MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 021 300 91 00,
www.ibishotels.ro. 250 rooms. PHR6ULG
KW

Happy, multi-lingual staff are a bonus not always found in

Bucharests hotels. Good cafes (there are two) to choose
from: one has a covered terrace.QD-7, Str. Nerva Traian
3A, tel. (+4) 021 200 62 70, www.doubletree.com. 87
rooms. PTHRUFLGKDW
GOLDEN TULIP TIMES
This, people, is a very good hotel where you get a hell of a lot
of room for a relatively small amount of money. All come furnished well with terrific beds, big desks and comfy armchairs.
Bathrooms are equally impressive and modern. There is Wifi
throughout and a host of extras: not least of which is the fantastic breakfast. The on site restaurant is one of the best hotelbased eateries in the city.QE-6, B-dul Decebal 19, MPiata
Muncii, tel. (+4) 021 316 65 16,, www.goldentuliptimes.
com. 70 rooms. PTHRLGKW
GOLDEN TULIP VICTORIA BUCHAREST
Half-way along Calea Victoriei, a pleasant walk to both Piata
Victoriei and Piata Universitatii, the Golden Tulip is a fine hotel that makes great use of the space available. The bathrooms for example are not huge but feel far bigger than
they are, and all have enough room for bathtubs. Bright
and modern in design we think its suited best to business
travellers looking to get great value for their companys
dollar.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 166, MPiata Romana, tel.
(+4) 021 212 55 58, www.goldentulipbucharest.com. 81
rooms. PTHRUFLGKW
74 Bucharest In Your Pocket

IBIS PALATUL PARLAMENTULUI

If you want a view of Casa Poporului then this is perhaps
the best place in Bucharest to come. Other than that it
is a fairly standard Ibis hotel, just as you love them from
anywhere else on the planet. Not entirely ideally located if you are not driving, it does boast non-smoking
rooms and very good staff.QB-6, Str. Izvor 82-84, tel.
(+4) 021 401 10 00, www.ibishotels.ro. 161 rooms.
PTHR6ULGKW
MINERVA
It is really hard to knock the Minerva so we will not even
try. Having been around so long it is entitled to a gold
watch, it remains a great choice for business people who
pay their own bills: you get great service, a good room (a
choice of smoking or non-smoking), a dead-central location yet are only asked for a fraction of what the five-stars
charge. The oldest Chinese restaurant in Romania is located on the ground floor, there is a lively bar and a good
spa, complete with jacuzzi, sauna, Turkish bath and massage.QB-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 2-4, MPiata Victoriei,
tel. (+4) 021 311 15 55, www.minerva.ro. PHRF
GKDW
RAMADA HOTEL & SUITES BUCHAREST NORTH
Well located in a quiet residential area near Herastrau
park. It has great rooms - amongst the biggest, on average, in Bucharest - and the bathrooms are tremendous:
all have bathtubs. There are also studios with kitchenettes for longer stays. The hotel boasts a good spa centre (with excellent Turkish bath), a big fitness room with
loads of equipment and an outdoor terrace and swimming pool (in summer). Good lobby bar and fine-dining
in the restaurant too.QC-6, Str. Daniel Danielopolu
44A, tel. (+4) 021 233 50 00, www.ramadanorth.ro.
232 rooms. PTHR6UFLGKDCW
bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Hotels

Directory

VILLAS

CLEANERS

BUCHAREST BOUTIQUE ACCOMMODATION

An elegant, stylish villa a short walk from Piata Unirii. There
are two rooms, and one enormous apartment. All of the
accommodation is immaculately furnished to the highest
standards of good taste. It is a real find this place, and one
we cant recommend enough. Impressively all children are
free if they share their parents room: we wish all Bucharest
hotels had this policy. Pets are welcome too, and breakfast
is included in the price.QC-7, Str. Vitejescu 37, MTineretului, tel. (+4) 0760 29 66 30, www.bucharest-boutiqueaccommodation.ro. 3 rooms. PT6LW

EGNATE Professional cleaning service: apartments, houses, offices etc. They will even come and clear up after you
have had the builders in, and can take care of tricky things
such as marble and furniture.QB-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu
10, tel. (+4) 0734 11 15 55/(+4) 0723 89 22 86, office@
egnate.ro, www.egnate.ro.

VILA 11
Located in a lovely 1920s house close to Gara de Nord (one
block east of Strada Vespatian and Dinicu Golescu) Vila 11
has a variety of private rooms, dorm facilities and family
suites available for backpackers and families of all ages.
Friendly and welcoming the owners do a great breakfast
(included in the price) and are a wealth of inside info when
it comes to getting the best out of Bucharest. Prices from
20-54.QA-4, Str. Institutul Medico Militar 11, MGara
de Nord, tel. (+4) 0722 49 59 00, vila11bb@hotmail.com.
6 rooms. T6GW

SHORT-TERM RENTAL
APART HOMES A range of city-centre apartments,
from studios to two-bedroomed places, as well as a villa
in Baneasa. They have someone on call 24 hours, maid
service twice a week and offer a variety of other services.
Prices from 50-150.QC-6, Str. George Valentin Bibescu
33, bl. X/2, sc. A, ap. 6, tel. (+4) 021 232 04 06, www.
aparthomes.ro. 20 rooms. PTR6GW
GRAND ACCOMMODATION Grand Accommodation has a variety of well furnished apartments and
villas to suit all pockets in good locations available for
both short and long term rentals. Prices from 30-80/
night.QB-5, Str. Ion Campineanu 29, tel. (+4) 0722
36 75 68/(+4) 021 314 49 50, www.for-rent.ro.
facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

DENTISTS
B.B. CLINIC - GERMAN DENTIST Unquestionably the
best dentist in the city. Whats more, you can bring the kids
too, as they now have a special room at the Dorobanti location equipped especially for younguns.QD-6, Str. Ionescu
Gion 4, tel./fax (+4) 021 320 01 51, www.germandentist.
ro. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. For emergencies
(24hrs) tel. (+4) 0744 49 91 99. Also at (B-2) Calea Dorobantilor 208, tel. (+4) 021 231 88 56.

DRY CLEANERS
5ASECQB-3, Calea Dorobantilor 111, tel. (+4) 021 236
00 98, www.5asec.ro. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 19:00. Closed Sun. Also at (E-7) Calea Vitan 13, tel. (+4)
021 320 99 95; B-dul Alex. Serbanescu 60-64, tel. (+4)
021 891 98 44; Cora Alexandrei, Sos. Alexandrei 152, tel.
(+4) 021 776 91 21.

COUNTRY CLUB
STEJARII COUNTRY CLUB What is unquestionably Romanias leading country club is just slightly
north of Bucharest, in a quiet location just past Ikea
and the Baneasa mall. Boasting a superb spa and offering an amazing range of sports (including squash,
tennis, a climbing wall, a huge indoor swimming pool
and a range of aerobic and martial arts options) they
also even have a golf driving range. There are various
membership options, from a year to simple weekly or
day tickets.QStr. Jandarmeriei 14, tel. (+4) 0744 33
21 55/(+4) 031 424 70 51, www.stejariicountryclub.
ro. Open 06:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.
August - September 2015

75

Directory
FOREIGN REPRESENTATIONS
AUSTRIA QC-4, Str. Dumbrava Rosie 7, tel. (+4) 021
201 56 124.
BELGIUM QD-4, B-dul Dacia 58, tel. (+4) 021 210 29 69.
BULGARIA QB-3, Str. Rabat 5, tel. (+4) 021 230 21 50.
CANADA QA-3, Str. Tuberozelor 1-3, tel. (+4) 021 307 50 00.
CROATIA QD-5, Str. Dr. Burghelea 1, tel. (+4) 021 300 36 55.
CZECH REPUBLIC QC-5, Str. Ion Ghica 11, tel. (+4) 021
303 92 30.
DENMARK QD-5, Str. Dr. Burghelea 3, tel. (+4) 021 300 08 00.
FINLAND QB-3, Str. Atena 2bis, tel. (+4) 021 230 75 45.
FRANCE QB-4, Str. Biserica Amzei 13-15, tel. (+4) 021
303 10 00.
GERMANY QB-3, Cpt. Av. Gh. Demetriade 6-8, tel. (+4)
021 202 98 30.
GREECE QE-5, Str. Pache Protopopescu 1-3, tel. (+4)
021 209 41 70.
HUNGARY QC-4, Str. Jean Louis Calderon 63-65, tel.
(+4) 031 620 43 00.
IRELAND QB-4, Str. Buzesti 50-52, et. 3, tel. (+4) 021
310 21 31.
ITALY QB-4, Str. Henri Coanda 9, tel. (+4) 021 305 21 00.
MOLDOVA QB-3, Aleea Alexandru 40, tel. (+4) 021
230 04 74.
NETHERLANDS QB-3, Str. Aleea Alexandru 20, tel.
(+4) 021 208 60 30.
NORWAY QB-3, Str. Atena 18, tel. (+4) 021 306 98 00.
POLAND QB-3, Aleea Alexandru 23, tel. (+4) 021 308 22 00.

PORTUGAL QB-3, Str. Paris 55, tel. (+4) 021 230 41 36.
RUSSIA QB-3, Sos. Pavel Kiseleff 6, tel. (+4) 021 222 31 70.
SERBIA QB-3, Calea Dorobantilor 34, tel. (+4) 021 211 98 71.
SPAIN QB-3, Aleea Alexandru 43, tel. (+4) 021 318 10 80.
SWEDEN QB-3, Sos. Kiseleff 43, tel. (+4) 021 406 71 00.
SWITZERLAND QB-4, Str. Grigore Alexandrescu 1620, tel. (+4) 021 206 16 00.
UK QC-4, Str. Jules Michelet 24, tel. (+4) 021 201 72 00.
USA QB-dul Liviu Librescu 4-5, tel. (+4) 021 200 33 00.

PHARMACIES
HELP NET QC-6, B-dul Unirii 27, tel. (+4) 031 405 04 59,
www.helpnet.ro. Also at (B-3) Str. Av. Radu Beller 8, tel.
(+4) 031 405 04 79 and many other locations.
SENSIBLU QB-3, Str. Radu Beller 6, tel. (+4) 021 233 89 61,
www.sensiblu.com. Open 24hrs. Also at (C-5) B-dul N. Balcescu 7, tel. (+4) 021 305 73 14 and many other locations.

MARKET VALUES
1 is currently worth around 4.41 lei. A pint of local
beer in a central Bucharest bar or pub will cost you
around 8 lei (1.82). A McDonalds Big Mac costs 9.90
lei (2.25), while a loaf of plain bread in a local store is
1.20 lei (0.27). A packet of 20 international brand cigarettes costs 14.50 lei (3.29), and one litre of standard
unleaded petrol 6.17 lei (1.40). A one-trip ticket for
public transport ticket costs 1.30 lei (0.29).
facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

August - September 2015

77

Village
Museum

Romanian National
Rugby Stadium

Arc de Triumf

Casa Victor

Romanian
Television (TVR)

ence

id
Res

l de

Arcu

m
Triu

ond

llo M

Pico

Peasant
Museum

Nonna Mia

Geology
Museum

Grigore
Antipa
Museum

Starlight

Childrens
Emergency Hospital

Marshal Garden

Minerva

George Enescu
Museum

Duke

Ibis Gara
de Nord

Hello

Moxa

Howard Johnson
Grand Plaza

Golden Tulip

Yeshoah Tova

Northern Bucharest

Circus Globus

Emergency Hospital

Institutul Matei Bals

Piata Obor

Dan

Central & Southern Bucharest

InterContinental

Rembrandt

Tania

Europa Royale

Unirea

Street register
13 Septembrie, Calea
B6
21 Decembrie 1989, Piata C5
Academiei, Str.
C5
Alecsandri Vasile, Str.
B4
Alexandrescu Grigore, Intr. C4
Alexandrescu Grigore, Str. B4
Aman Theodor, Str.
B5
Amman, Str.
C3
Amzei, Intr.
B4
Apolodor, Str.
B6
Argentina, Str.
B3
Arghezi Tudor, Str.
C5
Atelierului, Str.
A4
Atena, Str.
B3
Balaban Emil, Str.
C4
Balcescu Nicolae, Bd.
C5
Baniei, Str.
C6
Banului, Str.
B5
Baratiei, Str.
C6
Batistei, Str.
C5
Berna, Str.
B3
Berthelot H. M., G-ral., Str. B5
Berzei, Str.
A4
Biserica Amzei, Str.
B4
Biserica Enei, Str.
C5
Bitolia, Intr.
B3
Blanari, Str.
C6
Blanc Louis, Arh., Str.
B3
Blanduziei, Str.
C5
Bogdan Ion, Prof., Str.
C4
Botez Eugen, Cmdr., Str. C3
Bratianu I.c., Bd.
C6
Brazilia, Str.
B3
Brebu, Str.
E3
Brezoianu Ion, Str.
B5
Brutus M.i., Str.
B6
Bruxelles, Str.
B3
Budisteanu Constantin,
G-ral, Str.
B5
Buiestrului, Str.
C3
Buzesti, Intr.
B4
Buzesti, Piata
A4
Buzesti, Str.
B4
Buzoiani Iani, Str.
C2
Buzoianu Ion, Lt.col., Intr. C6
Caderea Bastiliei, Intr.
B4
Caderea Bastiliei, Str.
B4
Caderon Jean Louis, Str. C5
Calin Ion, Erou, Str.
C4
Cameliei, Str.
A4
Carada Eugeniu, Str.
C6
Caragea Ioan Voda, Str.
C4
Caragiale I.l., Str.
C5
Caragiale I.l.,intr.
C5
Carol I, Bd.
D5
Catargiu Lascar, Bd.
B4
Cavafii Vechi, Str.
C6
Cazzavillan Luigi, Str.
B5
Cernat Alexandru,
G-ral, Str.
A4
Cioranu Mihai, Str.
A6
Clucerului, Str.
A3
Clunet, Dr., Str.
A6
Coanda Constantin, G-ral., Str.
B4
Coanda Henri, Str.
B4
Cobalcescu Grigore,
Prof., Str.
B5
Coltei, Str.
C5
Constantin Daniel, Str.
B4
Constitutiei, Piata
B6
Conta Vasile, Str.
C5
Coposu Corneliu, Bd.
C6
Coposu Corneliu, Piata
D6

82 Bucharest In Your Pocket

Cornescu, Str.
C3
Cotiturii, Str.
A5
Covaci, Str.
C6
Crisana, Str.
A5
Crisului, Str.
C6
Cronicarilor, Str.
C3
Cuza Alexandru Ioan, Bd. A4
Dacia, Bd.
D4
Dascalu Nicolae, Serg., Intr. B4
David Emmanuel, Str.
C4
Davila Carol, Dr., Str
A6
Dealul Mitropoliei, Alee
C6
Demetriade Gheorghe, Cpt.
av., Str
B3
Dianei, Str.
C5
Doamna Oltea, Str.
C3
Dona Nicolae, G-ral, Str.
B5
Dorobanti, Calea
B3
Dorobanti, Piata
B3
Dragalina Ion, G-ral., Str. B6
Drobeta, Str.
C4
Duca Gheorghe, Bd.
A4
Dumbrava Rosie, Str.
C4
Eforie, Str.
C5
Eftimiu Victor, Intr.
B5
Elie Radu, Str.
B5
Eminescu Mihai, Intr.
C4
Eminescu Mihai, Str.
D4
Enescu George, Piata
B5
Enescu George, Str.
B5
Episcopiei, Str.
C5
Eroii Sanitari, Bd.
A5
Eroilor, Bd.
A5
Eroilor, Piata
A6
Felix Iacob, Dr., Str.
A4
Filipescu Nicolae, Str.
C5
Finlanda, Str.
B3
Floreasca, Cale
C3
Florescu Ion, G-ral, Str.
C5
Franceza, Str.
C6
Frumoasa, Intr.
B4
Frumoasa, Str.
B4
Furtuna Stefan, Intr.
A5
Gabroveni, Str.
C6
Gara De Nord, Piata
A4
Gara De Nord, Str.
A4
Georgescu George, Str.
B6
Ghica Ion, Str.
C5
Golescu Dinicu, Bd.
A4
Golescu Nicolae, Str.
C5
Greceanu Paul, Str.
C4
Grigorescu Eremia, Str.
C4
Grivitei, Cale
B4
Gusti Dimitrie, Str.
A5
Gutenberg, Str.
B5
Haga, Str.
B3
Hagi Moscu Maria, Str.
A3
Halelor, Str.
C6
Haret Spiru, Str.
B5
Hasdeu Iulia, Intr.
B4
Hasdeu Iulia, Str.
B4
Horatiu, Str.
B4
Hristo Botev, Bd.
C5
Iancu De Hunedoara, Bd. B4
Icoanei, Str.
C4
Ilfov, Str.
B6
Iorga Nicolae, Intr.
B4
Iorga Nicolae, Str.
B4
Iosif O. Eugen, Dr., Str.
A6
Iulian Stefan, Str.
A3
Izvor, Str.
A6
Justitiei, Str.
B6
Kiseleff P.d., Bd.
B3
Kogalniceanu Mihail, Bd B5

Kogalniceanu Mihail, Piata B5

Lacatusului, Str.
C2
Lacul Tei, Bd.
D3
Lahovari Alexandru, Piata C4
Lantului, Str.
A6
Lascar Vasile, Str.
C5
Lazar Gheorghe, Str.
B5
Lebedei, Str.
A3
Libertatii, Bd.
B6
Libertatii, Piata
B7
Lipova, Str.
A5
Lipscani, Str.
C6
Lisabona, Str.
B3
Lister, Dr., Str.
A6
Londra, Str.
B3
Lupu Dionisie, Str.
C5
Luterana, Str.
B5
Macedoniei, Str.
A5
Magheru Gheorghe, Bd C5
Magiresti, Str.
A4
Maltopol, Str.
A4
Mamulari, Str.
C6
Manolescu Grigore, Str.
A3
Manu Gheorghe, G-ral, Str. B4
Maracineanu Walter, Piata B5
Masaryk Thomas, Str.
C5
Mendeleev D.i., Str.
C4
Mexic, Str.
B3
Michelet Julles, Str.
C4
Micle Veronica, Str.
A4
Mihai Voda, Str.
B6
Mihalache Ion, Bd.
A3
Mihnea Voda, Str.
C6
Mille Constantin, Str.
B5
Millo Matei, Str.
B5
Mincu Ion, Arh., Str.
B3
Mirinescu Mihail, Dr., Str. A6
Miron Costin, Str.
A4
Mitropolit Antim Ivireanul, Str.
B6
Monetariei, Str.
B3
Mosilor, Cale
D4
Moxa Mihail, Str.
B4
Muresanu Andrei, Str.
B3
Musatescu Tudor, Piata
B5
Natiunile Unite, Bd.
B6
Natiunile Unite, Piata
B6
Neculce Ion, Str.
A3
Negri Costache, Str.
A6
Negruzzi Iacob, Str.
A4
Negulescu Stefan, Str.
C3
Occidentului, Str.
B4
Oslo, Str.
B3
Ostasilor, Str.
B5
Otetari,str. C5
Paris, Str.
B3
Parvan Vasile, Str.
B5
Pasteur Louis, Dr., Str.
A6
Patriarhiei, Str.
C6
Petrescu Camil, Intr.
C4
Philippide Alexandru, Str. C4
Piata Amzei, Str.
B4
Pitar Mos, Str.
C5
Poenaru Bordea, Str.
B6
Poiana Narciselor, Str.
B5
Politie, Str.
B6
Polizu Gheorghe, Str.
A4
Polona, Str.
C4
Poni Petru, Str.
A4
Popa Tatu, Str.
B5
Popescu-gopo Ion, Str.
A6
Povernei, Str.
B4
Praga, Str.
B3
Praporgescu David,

G-ral., Str.
C5
Pretorienilor, Str.
A6
Putul Cu Plopi, Str.
B5
Putul Lui Zamfir, Str.
B3
Quinet Edgar, Str.
C5
Quito, Piata
B3
Rabat, Str.
B3
Radu Voda, Str.
C6
Ramniceanu Naum, Str.
C3
Regina Elisabeta, Bd.
C5
Regina Maria, Bd.
C6
Revolutiei, Piata
B5
Rigas, Intr.
B5
Roma, Intr.
B3
Roma, Str.
B3
Romana, Piata
B4
Rosetti C.a., Piata
C5
Rosetti C.a., Str.
C5
Rosetti Maria, Str.
C5
Rossini Gioachino, Str.
C3
Saligny Anghel, Ing., Str. B5
Sapientei, Str.
B6
Sarandy Frosa, Str.
A3
Scarlatescu, Str.
A3
Schitul Magureanu, Bd.
B5
Scoala Floreasca, Str.
C3
Scoalei, Str.
C5
Selari, Intr.
C6
Selari, Str.
C6
Sepcari, Str.
C6
Sevastopol, Intr.
B4
Sevastopol, Str.
B4
Sfanta Vineri, Str.
C6
Sfantul Constantin, Str.
B5
Sfantul Elefterie, Str.
A6
Sfintii Apostoli, Str.
B6
Sfintii Voievozi, Piata
B4
Sfintii Voievozi, Str.
B4
Slanic, Str.
C5
Slatineanu Ion, Str.
C4
Slavesti, Str.
C4
Smardan, Str.
C6
Sofia, Str.
B3
Stahi Constantin, Str.
B5
Staicovici Nicolae, Dr., Str. A6
Stavropoleos, Str.
C6
Stefan Cel Mare, Sosea
D4
Stirbei Voda, Intr.
B5
Stirbei Voda, Str.
B5
Tirana, Str.
B3
Titulescu Nicolae, Sosea A4
Tokio, Str.
B3
Tomescu Toma, Dr., Intr. B4
Transilvaniei, Str.
B5
Tudor Stefan, Intr.
C3
Tunari, Str.
C4
Unirii, Bd.
C6
Unirii, Piata
C6
Universitatii, Piata
C5
Vacarescu Barbu, Str.
C3
Venezuela, Str.
B3
Verona Arthur, Pictor, Str. C5
Victoriei, Calea
B4
Victoriei, Piata
B4
Visarion I.c., Str.
B4
Vladoianu Barbu, G-ral, Str. A3
Vlaicu Aurel, Str.
C4
Vulcanescu Mircea, Str.
B4
Washington, Str.
B3
Witting, Str.
A4
Xenopol Alexandru, Str. C4
Zalomit Z. Ion. Str.
B5
Zola Emile, Str.
B3

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