What Youll Need for a Charcuterie Board
Access to a good butcher or specialty food shop is key to building a charcuterie board. Dont be
afraid to ask questions and try samples as you choose your meats. The best meat platters have a
little bit of everything. Whats everything? Read on.
Cured sausages
Cured, hard sausages are a great entry-level choice for many diners, because theyre reminiscent of
grocery store pepperoni (a misnomer, says Mullen, as the word really just means pepper). A
quality butcher shop will have plenty of options when it comes to cured, hard sausage. Mullen likes
to mix it up with complementary and contrasting flavors. For example, if youre going for a hot,
garlicky chorizo or a fiery sopressata, counter it with something with a sweeter flavor profile, like
fennel seed-flecked-finocchiona.
Whole-Muscle Cuts
Whole-muscle cuts of meat are shaved into slices that can be thick (good for sandwiches) or paperthin (a better choice for charcuterie boards). Common examples are lomo de cerdo, a cured pork
tenderloin often just called lomo, and bresaola, beef tenderloin thats been air-dried and salted. If
you know and love bresaola, Mullen suggests giving cesina a tryits the Spanish version of the
same cut. Bacon and jowl (often referred to as guanciale) fall into this category, as do cured pork
legs, like prosciutto, jamn Serrano, and jamn Ibrico. One of Mullens new favorites is filetto
bacciato, which means kissed fillet. Its hard to find but worth the effort: this salami-wrapped
cured loin looks just like puckered lips when sliced. Its amazing, but there are only a couple guys
left that make it, he says. Your best bet is to start the search in Piemonte, Italy.
Pat or terrine
A pat or terrine adds a little textural intrigue to the typical assortment of cured sausages and meat.
A terrine or pat can be made from just about anything. Mullens favorite? I love me a lamb shank
or lamb neck terrine. For the more esoteric, rabbit with pickled vegetables. Because many terrines
are formed in a loaf pan, they can be too large to eat without a plate, fork, and knife. Cut it into
smaller pieces, Mullen says. Aim for slices that can be eaten in two to three bites, on top of toast or
a cracker.
Lard
Dont be afraid of a little lard! encourages Mullen. The crew at El Colmado Butchery has plans
for rendering all of their own lard for cooking and frying, so Mullen is a staunch supporter of the
fatty stuff. (Theyre also going to be breaking down whole animals, instead of just working with
deliveries of the primal cuts.) But another, more refined way to use lard that you can replicate at
home? Purchase thinly shaved slices of cured fatback, also known as lardo, and layer them on small
toasts, topped with fresh herbs and a sprinkle of sea salt. Fat is flavor, so a little lard goes a long
way. If you have picky eaters attending the party, just dont mention the word lard until after
theyve devoured at least two toasts.
Something bready
Homemade toasts are good. Homemade toasts rubbed with quality olive oil and a cut clove of garlic
are way better, says Mullen. Crackers are a no-fuss, open-the-package-and-go option, but no matter
what you choose, youre going to need something carby and bready for guests to pair the meat with.
Extra credit for picos, crispy Spanish breadsticks that are great wrapped with thin pieces of cured
meat. Its just this perfect, crunchy, hammy thing, says Mullen.
Something jammy, something tangy
A spreadable chutney or jam is the perfect foil to fatty, salty meat. Mullen is partial to a not-toosweet one he makes with pickled raisins, pine nuts, and cauliflower. The pickled fruit helps cut
through the richness of the meat, and the pine nuts add some crunch. Bright, acidic flavors perk up
any charcuterie selection. You cant go wrong with a grainy mustard and tangy, tart pickles
cornichons are a classic choice.
Photo: Olympic Provisions
If You Like That, Try This
If youve had limited experience with choosing charcuterie, the wealth of options can seem
overwhelming. Branch out from your favorites with these next-level upgrades.
If you like bacon
Mullen is a huge fan of lamb baconhe started serving it at Tertulia, his original restaurant, eight
years ago. Cant get your hands on some lamb? You can also braise uncured pork belly, or score the
skin and slow-roast it at a low temperature before cranking the heat and letting it turn a handsome
golden-brown.
If you like prosciutto
Smoked country ham is a natural next step for lovers of buttery, salty, cured pork. Serrano ham from
Spain is another favorite, and if youve got deep pockets, jamn Ibrico is worth the high price tag.
Depending on their grade, Iberian pigs are fed a diet of exclusively acorns, acorns and grain, or just
grain. The most prized (and most expensive) Iberian ham is the creamy, fatty, and nutty jamn
Ibrico de bellota (acorn).
If you like pepperoni
If you have a soft spot for grocery store pepperoni (a.k.a. that stuff found on delivery pizza), take a
deeper dive into the world of cured meat with, according to Mullen, essentially, any hard, cured
meat that needs to be unwrapped. Spicy sopressata, smoky chorizo, or a mild and
buttery saucisson sec are old-world classics that will quickly earn a place on your shopping list once
you give them a try.
