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Diagnostic Study

Trichy Handloom Cluster

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Diagnostic Study Report of

Trichy Handloom Cluster

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Contents

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S No

Topics
Executive Summary

Page Nos.

Textile Industry Scenario

Historical Evolution of the Cluster

Core Cluster Actors and Institutions

Analysis of Business Organisations

Inter Firm Industrial Organisations

SWOT Analysis of the Cluster

Vision of the Cluster

Problems and Gaps

Implementation Strategy

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Action Plan

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EXECUTIVE SUMMARY

The Handloom Industry in India offers livelihood to masses all over the
country. Despite the government schemes, the Handlooms in many parts of
the country are struggling to survive. Trichy is one such place where the
handloom industry is in the declining trend for the past 5 years.

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The ancient 300 BC Chola capital called Woraiyur, is the todays Trichy. The
handloom industry situated in and around the district tells the pathetic tale of
the

surviving

weaving

communities.

The

reasons

are

many

fold.

Globalization, changing market trends, growing production of these varieties

in powerloom, highly fluctuating yarn market, lethargy of the weavers
towards the activity, mismanagement of the cooperative institutions and
misuse of the government rebate scheme are some of the reasons attributed
to the state of affairs of the handloom industry. Due to these reasons about
50 % of the weavers left the area in search of livelihood to other districts and

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even to the nearby state Kerala.

The chapter 1 deals with the global textile industry scenario to the present

handloom industry in Trichy district and the market share of the major
cluster product, saree.
INCOMPLETE. FULL FORM WILL BE SENT IN DUE COURSE

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1.0 TEXTILE INDUSTRY SCENARIO
1.1

Global Textile Industry Scenario

Global Textile Market today is worth more than $500 billion and it is still growing
every year. Textile and apparel trade represents nearly 6% of total world exports.
Textile Trade has exploded eighty-fold during the past forty years, from under $6

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billion in 1962 to $453 billion in 2004. The more labor-intensive apparel export
sector has grown more rapidly than textile exports. The recent globalization of the
textile trade has opened up highly demanding and evolving requirements for
outsourcing of textiles. During the last quarter of the previous century, the share of
developing countries in world textile exports improved from 15 to 50 per cent.
1.2

Textile Agreements Pre & Post MFA

The Trade in Textiles from 1974 1994 was controlled under MFA (Multi-Fiber
Agreement) through which a particular country is restricted to export its textile

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products beyond a certain level to European and US markets. It is clear, efforts to

liberalise trade and textiles has been tough. The key players from the developed
countries took protective measures and made heavy investments in textile, and the
result, the developed countries became the most capital-intensive nations within
the textile manufacturing segment. At the same time, developing countries were
subject to quantitative restrictions, thus keeping a strong hold on textile exports,

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keeping the edge by optimum textile production. The MFA was terminated with
entry into force of the World Trade Organization (WTO) and its Agreement on
Textiles and Clothing (ATC) on 1 January 1995. The WTO renewed the MFA with an
Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC), which agreed that all quotas on textiles

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and clothing would disappear between member countries on January 1, 2005. The
expiration of ATC marked the end of quotas, limiting textile and clothing trade
between the WTO members. While India and China are likely to emerge as winners,
the main losers after quota will be quota-restricted countries who have enjoyed the
benefits and protection for more than 40 years. Costs remain the driving factor in
the post-quota world but now the advantage will be greater as retailers are bound
to raise the bar higher on the responsiveness and flexibility from their suppliers.

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1.3

Competitiveness and the Future

Manufacturers in developed countries are more likely to adapt by relocating

operations to production centers in low wage countries. Those who choose nearby
locations will also benefit from market proximity and speed of response. Textile
manufacturers supplying regional and domestic apparel producers have survived by
investing in technology. It allows them to achieve some of the highest productivity

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in the world. Innovative approach has helped manufacturers to differentiate their

products and maintain an edge over competitors. Quota elimination has its flip side
as well. It will force down clothing prices further and will also help retail buyers to
concentrate upon the most competitive suppliers in terms of cost, quality and
productivity. It will be a race and emerging winners would include companies who
will be able to deliver large volumes from integrated structures through partnership
and other ventures. The quantum leap in exports of textiles from developing
countries occurred despite high tariffs and quantitative restrictions imposed
particularly by economically developed countries. It is important to highlight the
role of the multifunctional textiles, intelligent textiles, eco-textiles, e-textiles and
customized textiles in the future of the textile-apparel sector to cope up with the
changing face of textile industry.
1.4

Indian Textile Industry Scenario

The Indian Textile Industry has an overwhelming presence in the economic life of

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the country. Apart from providing one of the basic necessities of life, it also plays a
pivotal role through its contribution to industrial output, employment generation,

and the export earnings of the country. Currently, it contributes about 14 percent to
industrial production, 4 percent to the GDP, and 16 percent to the countrys export
earnings. It provides direct employment to about 35 million people. The Textile
sector is the second largest provider of employment after agriculture. Thus, the
growth and all round development of this industry has a direct bearing on the
improvement of the economy of the nation. The Indian textile industry is extremely
varied, with the hand-spun and hand woven sector at one end of the spectrum, and
the capital intensive, sophisticated mill sector at the other.

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1.5

Indian Handloom Industry Scenario

Handlooms constitute the rich cultural heritage of India. The handloom weaving, as
an economic activity, provides livelihood to the people. The element of art and craft
present in Indian handlooms makes it a potential sector for the upper segments of

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market in domestic as well as global. The sector accounts for 13% of the total cloth
produced in the country. Innovative weavers with their skillful blending of myths,

faiths, symbols and imagery provide their fabric an appealing dynamism. The
strength of Handloom lies in introducing innovative design, which cannot be
replicated by the Powerlooms. In spite of the Government intervention through
financial assistance and implementation of various development and welfare
schemes, the number of handlooms is continuously reducing all over the country.
The reasons are manifold. New generation are not readily joining the weaving
activity. Low wages, continuous increase in yarn prices, obsolete technologies,

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unorganized production system, low productivity, inadequate working capital,

conventional product range, weak marketing link, overall stagnation of production
and sales and, above all, competition from powerloom are the factors forcing the
handloom sector difficult to survive.
1.6

Tamil Nadu Handloom Industry Scenario

Handloom industry in Tamilnadu plays an important role and provides employment

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for more than 4.29 lakh weaver households and about 11.64 lakh weavers.
According to the Director of Handlooms & Textiles, about 2.11 lakh handlooms are
functioning in 1247 handloom weavers co-operative societies and the remaining
looms are outside the co-operative fold. The handloom weavers co-operative
societies mostly exist in Rural and Semi-Urban areas, where there is large
concentration of handloom weavers. The handloom weavers co-operative societies
have produced 1083.26 lakh metres of handloom cloth valued at Rs.559.72 crore

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and sold to the extent of Rs.696.58 crore during the year 2004-05. There is an
increase of sale of handloom cloth worth Rs.122 crore in 2004-05 over previous
year 2003-04. The number of handloom weavers societies working on profit has

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been increased from 527 to 601 during the year 2004-2005. Marketing is the major
factor for the performance of the handloom weavers co-operative societies.
1.7

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Trichy Handloom Industry Scenario

Trichy Handloom cluster consists of many sub-clusters with in a radius of 50 km.

They are Manamedu, Musiri, Paithamparai, Thathiengarpet, Kottathur, Thuraiyur,

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Poovalur, Mettupalayam, Samayapuram etc., 5 years before, there were more than
10000 looms were operating in the cluster.

Due to the price competition from

powerloom sector, the trend is continuously declining. To day 1/4th of the business
only is happening. 3/4th of the master weavers, and merchant manufacturers left
the business. As the survival becomes difficult, most of the weavers left the area
and migrated to Tirupur, Karur and Kerala in search of jobs. Most of the weaver
members are unhappy about the functioning of the societies, as there is no
continuous employment provided by the societies. The main products of the cluster

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are Cotton sarees, cotton voile fabrics cotton dhotis and uppers. The total turnover
of the cluster estimated to be around Rs. 10 crores, in which 70 % are woraiyur
cotton sarees, 20 % are voile fabrics and 10 % are of dhotis and uppers.
The total market size of the cotton saree in India, according to the Textiles
Committees consumer house hold survey, is 330 million pieces. The Cotton sarees
produced in Trichy cluster for an year is estimated to be 3,00,000 pieces of value
around 7.5 crores, which works out to be only 0.1 % of the countrys requirement.

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The total handloom cotton sarees produced in Tamil Nadu, according to the
Statistical Hand Book of the Department of Economics and Statistics for year 2005,

is 59, 21,167. The Trichy cluster contributes 5 % of the handloom cotton saree
production in Tamil Nadu.

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2.0 HISTORICAL EVOLUTION OF CLUSTER
2.1

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History of Trichy Handloom Cluster

Woraiyur, a part of present day Tiruchirappalli, was the capital city of Cholas since
300 B.C. Later, Woraiyur came under

the control of Mahendra Varma Pallava I,

who ascended the throne in AD 590. Till AD 880, this region was under the
hegemony of either the Pallvas or the Pandyas. It was in AD 880, Aditya Chola
brought a downfall to the Pallava dynasty. From that time onwards Tiruchirappalli
and

its region became a part

of

Greater

Cholas.

In

AD

1225

the

till the advent of Mughal Rule. Tiruchirappalli was for some time under the Mughal
Governors

of

Vijayanagar

Empire,

ruled this area till

The Nayaks, the

AD

1736.

It was

Viswanatha Nayaka who built the present day Teppakulam and the Fort.
The Muslims rules this region again with the aid of either
English armies.

the

For some years, Tiruchirappalli was under the rule

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area

was occupied by the Hoysulas. Afterwards, it came under the rule of later Pandyas
rule, which was put to an end by the Vijayanagar rulers.

or the

Chanda Sahib

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and Mohamed Ali. Finally the English brought Tiruchirappalli and other areas under
their control.

The district was then under the hegemony of British for about 150

years till the independence of India. As the sarees woven in and around the ancient
Cholas capital Woraiyur, since then it is called Woraiyur sarees.

2.2

Present day Trichy Handloom Cluster

To day it is estimated that about 2500 handlooms operate in both Co-operative and
Private sector. As per the statistics available with the Assistant director of
Handlooms Trichy, the total number of handlooms in the cooperative sector is 4255
in which 1461 are working looms and the remaining are idle. The value of

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production during March, 2006 was around 45 lakhs only. The current population

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dependant on weaving and allied works living in Trichy district is estimated to be
around 25,000 only. The weaving communities are Padma Saliyars, Devangas and
Mudaliars. Out of 29 Co-operative societies, 27 are working, and one is just
registered and one is dormant. Though the number of profit making societies is 19
in number, the accumulated loss of these societies runs into more than 5 crores.
M/s. Thathiengarpet Weavers Co-operative Society, once popularly known for its
quality dhothies, is almost at the verge of closure and presently no activity. The

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handloom industry in the cluster comes down drastically in the last 5 years. The
voile fabrics produced on handlooms reduced from 5 lakh metres to about 1 lakh
metres. The competition from powerlooms forced few master weavers to switch
over to powerlooms.
2.3

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Social Profile of Trichy

Trichy is one of the biggest industrial city of Tamil Nadu state. The population of
Trichy district is about 22,00,000 according to the data available for 1991 census.
Out of which 11,08,016 are male population and female population 10,88,457.
There are about 145 large scale industries and 802 small industries are working in
the outskirts of Trichy. Bharat Heavy Electricals Ltd, a successfully run popular
public sector large scale industry is situated in Trichy. Trichy is well connected with

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other cities by train routes and flight routes. Airport is situated about 3 km from
the city. Direct flight to Columbo, Sri Lanka is available. The river Cauvery flows

through the city. Besides Trichy is a famous tourist centre of Temples viz Srirangam
Ranganathar
Temple.

Temple,

Samayapuram

Mariamman

Temple

and

Tiruvanikkaval

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2.4

Woraiyur Cotton Saree

The main product of the cluster is Woraiyur Cotton saree. About 70% of the cluster
production is sarees only. Finer cotton counts 60s, 80s, 100s, 120s, 2/120s are
being used to make these varieties.
area mills through NHDC.

The cotton yarn is bought from Coimbatore

The approved dyer for Co-operative Societies operate

from Jeyankondam situated 95 km from Trichy. Only few small dyers are working in
Trichy Woraiyur area. The dyeing is also carried out in Coimbatore, Salem,
Tiruchengode areas for export quality voiles. The quality of particulars of the saree

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and other varieties is as below:S.No.

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Variety
Saree
Saree
Saree
Saree
Saree
Voile fab.
Dhoti
Dhoti
Uppers
Uppers

Warp
100s
80s
80s
100s
60s
80s
100s
80s
80s
100s

Weft
100s
100s
80s
2/120s M
60s
80s
100s
80s
80s
100s

EPI / PPI
80/76-80
80/76-80
80/76-80
80/72-76
72/64-68
80/68-76
88/76-80
88/76-80
80/76-80
80/76-80

Width
47-50
47-50
47-50
47-50
47-50
46-48
50
50
36
36

Length
6-9 Yds
6-9 Yds
6-9 Yds
6-9 Yds
6-9 Yds
P Length
4 yds
4 yds
2 yds
2 yds

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3.0 CORE CLUSTER ACTORS AND INSTITUTIONS

3.1

Core Cluster actors

The core cluster actors are weavers of both cooperative and private, Handloom
Weavers Co-operative Societies, Master weavers, Merchant Manufacturer / Traders,
Co-optex, Textile Showrooms, Dyers, NHDC, Yarn Dealers, Cooperative Banks,
Integrated Cooperative Development Organisation.

3.2

Office of the Asst.Director of Handlooms & Textiles

The Weavers Co-operative societies come under the Administrative Control of The
Asst. Director, Handlooms & Textiles, Govt. of Tamilnadu. Since no elected board is

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functioning in any of the society, the officials from Asst.Director of Handlooms &
Textiles function as Special Officers and control the societies in day-to-day
activities.

Welfare and developmental schemes of Central & State Govt. are also

implemented and monitored by this office. NID has been entrusted to develop new

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designs for Woraiyur sarees.

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Financial Institutions

3.3.1 The Trichy Dist. Co-operative Bank

The Trichy Dist. Co-operative Bank offers credit facility to the Co-operative societies
including their working capital needs. For societies, the cash credit sanctioned for
the year 2005-06 has been Rs.417 lakhs. Out of which Rs.383 lakhs availed. Since

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about 50% of the societies are working under loss, there is no credit facility

extended to these societies.

3.3.2 The Commercial Banks

The commercial Banks like Lakshmi Vilas Bank offers loans to women handlooms
SHGs in Manamedu sub cluster. Apart from this, there is no evidence of banks

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offering loans to the handloom industry.

3.3.3 Integrated Co-operative Development Project

The Integrated Co-operative Development Project is a programme under National
Co-operative

Development Corporation

(NCDC).

They identify co-operative

societies of all sectors and provide working capital to the viable selected societies.
Some of the loss making handloom co-operative societies in Trichy cluster was also

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given working capital under this project.

3.4

Weavers Service Centre

The Weavers Service Centres (WSC) impart training to weavers to upgrade their

skill and increase productivity. They play a vital role in conducting research and
development evolving new designs and reviving traditional designs. The WSCs are
functioning under the Office of the Development Commissioner for Handlooms, New
Delhi. The WSCs primarily render extension services, which involve transfer of

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design inputs, skills and technology evolved to the weavers at their cottages.

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3.5

Bharathidasan Institute of Management (BIM)

The BIM is a reputed Management Institution in Trichy, offers MBA Course

to students. The resources of the Institute may be used for training needs of the
handloom industry personnel in management aspects.
3.6

District Rural Development Agency (DRDA)

The DRDA is a State Government Body working and implementing schemes for the
rural development. There is no specific scheme for handloom weavers under DRDA.

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However, they work with SHGs (Self Help Groups) of women and men directly and
through NGOs.
3.7

Self Help Groups ( SHGs)

There are about 6 SHGs identified in the cluster engaged in Handloom weaving.
They have obtained loan from the local private bank, produced own handloom
products and participated in the Exhibition for marketing their products.
3.8

Trichy Zilla Handloom Textile Producers Association

Associations play an important role in the development and sustainability of the

industrial clusters. Trichy handloom cluster also has many associations in the
business. But none of the associations are actively involved in the development of
the business now. Woraiyur handloom merchant manufacturers are having an
association in the name of Trichy Zilla Handloom Textile Producers Association. It is
a registered association with a membership base of about 50 members. It was

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learnt from them that more than 50 % of their members have already left the
handloom saree business due to competition from powerlooms and the declining
market for handloom sarees. The association runs a marriage hall. They organize
meetings in every six months to discuss the issues of importance. They also
distribute free school books and uniform cloth to the poor and needy students. Now
a days they discuss the handloom business very rarely. Their last meeting took

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place two years before when the cenvat tax was imposed on cotton yarn.
3.9

The Manamedu Warping Association

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The warping is a sub process before weaving. There were about 400 warpers were
working before 5 years. But now there are only 100 throughout the Trichy district.
The Manamedu warpers have an association. It is not a registered association. The
warpers in Manamedu area assemble on the new moon day, discuss any issue
related to their warping and do the chit fund activity.
3.10

The Manamedu Sizing Association

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The sizing people have an association in Manamedu. It is also not a registered
association. These people meet on every full moon day and discuss issues of
importance and run the chit fund activity. They donate Rs. 1000/- when a member
dies. These people help the handloom industry, but a neglected lot.

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4.0 ANALYSIS OF BUSINESS OPERATIONS

4.1

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Cotton Yarn Supplier

The raw material for the handloom industry is cotton yarn.

The cotton yarn is

supplied to both cooperative and private handloom weavers through NHDC and
local yarn dealers. The raw material is supplied from Coimbatore and Rajapalayam.
The cotton yarn counts of 80s, 60s, 100s and 120s are being used for weaving
sarees, dhotis, and export voile fabrics.
operating in Trichy.

There is no yarn dealers presently

A yarn dealer M/s. K.R.Velayudha Mudaliar Company,

Jeyankondam is the only supplier of cotton yarn to the master weavers of this
region. There were many yarn dealers operating from Trichy have been closed as
the market for the sarees reducing continuously.
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Dyeing

The dyeing activity is carried out only by few small dyers in Trichy.

There is no

approved dyer in Trichy. The cotton yarn for societies being dyed at Jeyankondam
situated

95

km

from

Trichy.

For

private

master

weavers

and

merchant

manufacturers, the dyeing of cotton yarn is carried out at Trichy by about 5 dyers.
Mostly, Napthol and Vat dyes are used for dyeing.
treatment are also followed to some extent.
2.25 kg ranges from Rs. 120/- to Rs. 250/-.
4.3

Warping

Direct dyes with some after

The dyeing charges per bundle of

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Warping is a process to convert the cotton yarn in hank form / cone form to ball /
sheet ball form suitable for sizing and weaving on handlooms. There were about
400 warpers working all over Trichy Dist. five years back. At present, their number
reduced to about 100.

The warping charges are made on No. of knots basis.

Rs.2.40 per knot is charged as warping charges. 50% of this i.e Rs.1.20 goes for
winding bobbins. The winding is a household activity carried out by ladies in a no.
of houses in the same area.

A warper gets Rs.15/- per warp as wages.

warping frame can accommodate 2 warp per cycle.

The

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3 cycles can be done per

day. Therefore the warper gets Rs.45/- for a full day.

4.4

Street Warp Sizing

Sizing is a process to add strength to the cotton single yarn warp by applying size,
paste uniformly throughout the length and breadth of warp.

The size solution

locally called Kanji (The liquid extract of boiled rice) is collected by old ladies in the
nearby households for meager amount of Re.1/- The person who collects the Kanji
gets Rs.5/- to Rs.20/- depending upon the quantity for 1 to 4 warps. The length of
the warp for sizing is around 35 yards. The accessories used for sizing process are
locally called pillu (Brush), Dhambu- a frame to hold both sides of warp, Kayiru a
rope used to tie the frame to the ground, Kolu wooden lease rod.

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The sizing

charges works out to be Rs.4.30 per knot. For each warp, about 16 knots are used.
So the cost of sizing works out to be Rs.69/- per warp. About 5 to 7 people are
required to perform the sizing process. 4 to 6 warps can be sized in a day. So the

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wages of an individual sizer works out to be Rs.40/- to Rs.50/- per day.

Sizing Ingredients & wages per warp
S No

4.5

Weaving

Ingredients

Expenses Rs

Charges for 5 warps

345.00

Rice extract

Coconut oil 25 ml

12.50

Raw rice flour

20.00

Wages @ 10 for 5

5.00

250.00

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Weaving is a process of interlacement of two series of threads warp and weft to
form fabric. Cotton yarn is used for weaving the sarees, export pieces and dhotis.
There are few silk weavers also noticed in the cluster. The wages per day for the
weaving activity for a weaver ranges from Rs. 50 to 75. As more than 50 % of the
weavers are of above 50 years age the productivity per weaver and earning also
slow down.

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4.6

Handloom

The process of weaving is done with the help of the loom. As it is operated by hand
by the weaver, it is called Handloom.

The accessories used in the handloom are

sley, shuttle, picker, warp beam, cloth beam, reed, healds, lease wooden rods, pirn.
Raised Pit Looms are used to weave the sarees, dhotis and export voile fabrics in
and around the Trichy Handloom Cluster.
4.7

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Weavers

Weavers have own looms and operate from their households.

There are two

categories of weavers viz., weavers under cooperative fold and weavers under
master weavers or private weavers.

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4.7.1 Weavers under Cooperative fold

The cooperative society weavers receive the sized warp from cooperative societies,

weave the sarees or dhotis or export pieces and return back the said products to
societies for marketing to Merchant Manufacturer, Co-optex and direct sales to

consumers. They receive wages for this activity. The continuous employment is not
ensured to the weavers of the cooperative societies. The cooperative weaver gets
20 % more wages compared to the private weavers. The same cooperative weaver

when weaves for a master weaver accepts the 20 % less wages.

4.7.2 Private Weavers

The private weavers mostly receive the dyed yarn from master weavers and get it

warped and sized outside; weave the sarees, dhotis and export pieces and return
back the woven products to the master weavers / merchant manufacturer.

The

weavers also receive the warped and sized ball warps for weaving directly from

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master weavers. The private weavers get nearly 20 % less wages compared to the
cooperative weavers.
4.8

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Co-operative Societies

There are about 27 Handloom Cooperative societies operating in Trichy District with
about 1200 working looms. Their consumption of cotton yarn per month works out
to be 15 Bales of 90 kg each. The yarn is supplied mostly from Coimbatore cotton

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spinning mills through NHDC. The cotton yarn is dyed according to the requirement
of colours with the approved dyers.

Then it is issued to the warping and sizing

people before issued to the weaver members.

4.9

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Master Weavers

The master weavers of about 50 Nos. operate in handloom area from all over Trichy
District. They procure cotton yarn from dealers, merchant manufacturers and dyers
and supply to warpers and sizers then to weavers and get the woven sarees, dhotis,

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export pieces and gives back to merchant manufacturers/ exporters.

4.10 Merchant Manufacturers / Traders

There are about 25 merchant manufacturers operating in the Trichy region.

Their

yarn requirements are met through the yarn dealer of Jayankondam situated about
95 km from Trichy.
market.

They dye the yarn according to the requirements of the

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They supply the dyed yarn to warpers and sizers before issued to the

individual weavers and small master weavers of different areas in Trichy.

The

weavers weave the sarees and returns back to them. There is a wage difference of
about Rs.100/- between private and cooperative societies.

They supply the

finished sarees to throughout Tamilnadu, Andhra Pradesh and Karnataka. Presently,

their market size reduced about 75% in the past 10 years due to competition from
powerloom sector.
manufacturers

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There is an association of Trichy Zilla Handloom Textile

with a membership of about 50.

Presently about 10 merchant

manufacturers are actively involved in Handloom saree business.

4.11 Co-optex

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Co-optex is an Apex Handloom fabrics marketing organization of Tamilnadu run by
The Tamilnadu Handloom Weavers Cooperative Societies Ltd., which sells Rs.400
crores worth handloom products in a year through their showrooms all over India.
The Co-optex procures handloom products from co-operative societies throughout
Tamilnadu.

They place production plan in advance to the societies and monitor

their production quality control and procure and supply to showrooms throughout
India. The co-optex also runs yarn godowns in other parts of Tamilnadu. The yarn

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from co-operative spinning mills are being sold to co-operative societies through
their yarn sales depot.

As the co-operative spinning mills do not produce finer

count yarn, and the Trichy consumes only the finer counts of yarn, Co-optex does
not have yarn sales depot

in Trichy.

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4.12 Textile Showrooms

Besides the sarees woven in and around Trichy area are also sold through popular
retail outlets like Thaila Silks, The Chennai Silks, Nalli Silks and Sharatha Silk textile
showrooms. The master weavers take orders from these showrooms and get it
woven by weavers and supply back to the showrooms.

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4.13 Role of Women and family members

The women in the cluster play an important role in weaving the sarees, voiles,

dhotis and uppers. Without their assistance, the weaving activity is not possible.
For weaving, continuous flow of weft is necessary. The winding of weft on pirns is
done by household ladies.

The winding of bobbins for warping process, is also

carried out by the women folk. For the sizing process, the size paste is collected
from households by old ladies.

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Warping Process in Progress

Sizing Process in Progress

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5.0 INTER FIRM INDUSTRIAL ORGANISATION
5.1

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Handloom Saree Production Process Map

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Raw Material
Cotton Yarn

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Dyeing
Warp Preparation

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Weft Preparation

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Winding

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Pirn winding

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Winding
Warping

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Sizing

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Warp Joining

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Warp Gaiting

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Weaving

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5.2

Cluster Map

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BIM

NHDC

Coop Tex

Textile
Show
Rooms

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AD office
Trichy

Society

Weaver
Coop

Design
Institutes

Merchant
Mfr
Weaver
Private

Warping

WSC

Warping
Assn

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Sizing
Master
Weaver

Handloom
Assn

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Sizing
Assn

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Before Intervention

After Intervention

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6.0 SWOT ANALYSIS THE CLUSTER
6.1

Strength

6.1.1

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Finance

Availability of Credit facilities from Co-operative Banks

Availability of banks for private sector

6.1.2

Production

Traditional Weaving skill

Availability of Raw material

6.1.3 Marketing

Woraiyur Cotton sarees have very good market

Private master weavers have good market linkages

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6.2

Weakness

6.2.1 Finance

Working capital not available to loss making societies

No proper working capital management

Lack of professional management

6.2.2 Production

Feeling of disgust on weaving

Wages remain stagnant in spite of inflation

Inconsistent supply of raw material to weavers

Weavers are aged. Young generation not encouraged

Lack of Innovation in designs

Reducing Production every year

Absence of yarn dealer and approved dyer in Trichy

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6.2.3 Marketing

Societies have Weak Marketing linkages

Selling only on rebate ( cooperative )

Lack of own showrooms

No dynamic marketing activity

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6.3

Opportunity

6.3.1

Finance

6.3.2

To avail the schemes of new generation banks

Production

To go for new value added products

To go for new innovations

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6.3.3

Marketing

To go for direct export

To explore newer markets

6.4

Threats

6.4.1

Finance

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No support for Handloom Industry from FIs

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6.4.2

Production

Stiff competition from power looms

Ineffective enforcement of handloom reservation act

6.4.3

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Marketing

Growing misuse of rebate scheme

Emerging new marketing with Big Retail showrooms

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7.0 VISION OF THE CLUSTER

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8.0 THE HANDLOOM WEAVERS IN TRICHY CLUSTER WILL
BECOME DYNAMIC AND SELF SUFFICIENT
TO PRODUCE MARKET - DEMAND VARIETIES
BY CONTINUOSLY FOCUSSING ON QUALITY
AND INNOVATIVE DESIGNS FOR THE
NICHE HIGHER END SEGMENT
OF THE SAREE MARKET
BY 2010.
PROBLEMS AND GAPS
8.1

The mind set of the weaving community is highly disturbed. Their very

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survival is at stake.

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8.2

Due to tough competition from powerlooms, the handloom sarees and dhotis
market has reduced to 1/4th in the last 5 years. Similarly, the no. of looms,
weavers, master weavers, merchant manufacturers, traders has also been
reduced.

8.3

8.4

The traditional method of manufacturing is only followed despite ever

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changing market.

The aged weavers are not ready to change the varieties to earn more wages.

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8.5

No proper linkages with designers or textile institutions.

8.6

There is no innovation in the handloom sarees and so the market is shrinking

every year.

8.7

Lack of professional management in the working of handloom co-operative

societies.

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8.8

Absence of designer for the societies with technical skills

8.9

Lack of approved dyers in Trichy. Waste of time due to transportation to

approved dyer situated 95 km away.

8.10 The system of allocation of yarn by DH office through AD office and NHDC
makes inordinate delay which affects their operation.
8.11 More than 50% of the cotton yarn meant for distribution to the handloom
society members are diverted to the local private weavers.
8.12 Improper linkages with raw material supply and marketing results in low

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quality & defective goods and unmarketable products.

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9.0 IMPLEMENTATION STRATEGY
9.1

Awareness Programme

More awareness programmes will be organized amongst the sub-cluster weavers,

master weavers, and society managers, self help groups separately to bring
confidence and commitment for the successful implementation of the programme,
within a period of six months.
9.2

Project Launch Programme

The project Launch Programme will be organized inviting all the stake holders viz.,
weavers, master weavers, merchant manufacturers, traders, Govt. and Non-Govt.
organizations, self help groups involved in handloom weaving, training institutions,
textile colleges, students, yarn dealers, dyers etc.,

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9.3

Exposure visits to various clusters

Exposure visits to successful clusters will be organized among the dynamic

weavers, master weavers, and other stake holders to study the Good Manufacturing
Practices (GMP) as a trust building activity.
9.4

on

personality development, skill development, designing,

management, products diversifications will be identified and organized in sub-

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clusters.
9.5

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Training Programmes

Training Programmes

Establishment of Raw material Bank

A raw material bank will be established at Trichy where all kinds of inputs for
handloom weaving made available for effective and timely distribution to weavers.

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9.6

Product & Design Developments

New innovative concepts, New Products will be developed using new fibres in line
with the existing cluster products with the help of students from textile institutions.
9.7

Formation of Consortiums

Consortiums of co-operative societies, master weavers, dyers

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will be formed to

reduce the cost of inputs and improve the collective efficiency.

9.8

Establishment of market linkages

The Trichy Handloom Cluster will be linked with proper marketing channels of

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Textile Retail showrooms all over India.

9.9

Participation in Exhibitions and Buyer - Seller Meets

The consortiums will be assisted in marketing their produce in the national and
international exhibitions and Buyer - Seller Meets.
9.10 Formation of a Cluster Development Co-ordination Committee

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A District level Cluster Development Co-ordination Committee (CDCC) amongst the
stakeholders will be established for monthly review of the functioning of all the

cluster related activities.

9.11 Establishment of Common Facility Centre

A Common Facility Centre consisting of a modern dyeing unit, a testing laboratory,

a training hall will be established to serve the handloom industry needs.

9.12 Establishment of Web-portal
A Web-portal containing customized products development information and on-line
sales through internet will be established.
9.13 Exposing cluster to Exporters & Buyers

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The Export quality voile fabrics produced in Manamedu will be exposed to foreign
buyers for direct export

9.14 Establishment of Brand

A Brand name for Trichy Handloom Cluster products will be established and
popularized through Fashion Shows in important cities.

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