HOURS IN

As the Olympic carnival sweeps into Rio de Janeiro,

Claire Rigby takes us on a whirlwind tour of the hottest
restaurants, best hotels and must-see attractions of the
bustling Brazilian metropolis, rightly known as the Cidade
Maravilhosa, or marvellous city

images: BRAZILIAN TOURISM BOARD

from rio with love

Clockwise from top left: Christ
the Redeemer; the colours of
Rio; surfing is a popular pastime;
Ipanema Beach; Candelria
Church, Rios vibrant nightlife;
Copacabana Palace

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8am

Start the day in a dazzlingly Rio way

stroll to the beach for a dip. Settle on
the golden sand and soak up views of the
island-dotted ocean as the cariocas, Rios
fortunate residents, come to life.

9.30am

Slip on some comfortable shoes and

take a cab downtown to Praa Mau in
the revamped Porto Maravilha district,
where a fabulous collection of Brazilian
and international art awaits at the Rio
Art Museum (MAR). On the other side
of the square, jutting dramatically into
Guanabara Bay, is Spanish architect
Santiago Calatravas landmark Museum
of Tomorrow. Its fascinating exhibits and
interactive displays pose questions on the
themes of Cosmos, Earth, Anthropocene,
Tomorrows, and Us.

11am

Grab another cab and head to the

neoclassical Banco do Brasil Cultural
Centre (CCBB), which recalls the history
of Rio during its time as the nations
capital from 1763 until 1960, when the
modernist new city of Braslia took
the mantle. From there its an easy
walk to Candelria Church, a baroque
1775 structure much in demand for the
weddings of Rios great and good.

1pm

A 20-minute cab trip will get you to

Sugarloaf Mountain, the perfect spot
for lunch. Ask the driver to drop you at
the cable car and ride up to Cota 200,
the stunning new restaurant on the first
of the mountains two peaks. Be sure to
make a reservation, which will allow you
to breeze past the queue for the cable
car. At Cota 200, ceilings soar over a
cool, elegant, white space, and the topnotch menu features generous serves of
dishes such as sun-cured grilled steak
(picanha de sol) and duck magret with
jabuticaba, a deep purple, berry-like fruit.

Once sated, head over to the helipad and

take one of Helisights panoramic flights.
These range from a six-minute whirl
along the beaches up to a 60-minute
extravaganza that takes in the whole
city and crosses the bay to Niteroi to
admire Oscar Niemeyers UFO-like
MAC museum. Theres no better way to
understand this gorgeous, voluptuous
city than from the air.

4.30pm

Take the cable car back down and a short

cab ride to Urca, one of Rios best-kept
secrets. Nestled in a bay below Sugarloaf
Mountain, the district is a haven of 1920s
architecture with a quiet, cosy charm.
Best of all is Bar Urca, a traditional bar
and restaurant facing the waterfront.
Cariocas sit on the seawall here to soak
up the sunset, slipping across the road
for bottles of beer from the simple bar.
Take your time and relax. Order a shrimp
pie or two as well. The old-fashioned
restaurant upstairs turns out superb,
classic seafood dishes too.

8pm

With a reservation made well ahead

were talking days rather than hoursits
off to Oro, the newest and brightest
jewel in Rios gastronomic crown.
Owned and run by chef Felipe Bronze,
Oro started life elsewhere in the city
but closed in mid-2015, with the new
incarnation opening in April this year.
From the molecular wonders of the
original Oro, Bronze has developed
a new, grill-based menu thats just as
sophisticated, but celebrates smoke, fire
and glowing embers. Choose the full
Creativity tasting menu and enjoy the
stunning surroundings.

11pm

Round off the day with cocktails in the

urban-industrial setting of the bar Usina
47, just four blocks from Oroor rev
up for a long night out (Usina 47 has a
spacious bar and dancefloor upstairs).
sun daze From top: the
Museum of Tomorrow is an
architectural showstopper;
Ipanema Beach; Cota 200 on the
first peak of Sugarloaf Mountain is
a dreamy lunch spot

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images: BRAZILIAN TOURISM BOARD; MCA ESTUDIO (COTA 200); MUSEUM OF TOMORROW

Day 1

2.30pm

creative living A 1920s mansion, which now houses the School of Visual Arts, sits in the heart of Parque Lage

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Where to Stay
Dont go past these
resplendent retreats
Belmond Copacabana Palace

You cant beat the grande dame,

the face of Rio glamour since it
was inaugurated in 1923. Dont be
deceived by the old-fashioned facade;
theres nothing out of date about the
service or facilities. With a new Asian
fusion restaurant, Mee, joining the
classic Cipriani, the hotel is a magnet
for those in search of the best Rio has
to offer.
The large, deeply luxurious suites are a
marvel, as is the matchless breakfast.
But the special sauce in the Hyatts
recipe is the utterly charming, superbly
trained staff. The hotel is in Barra da
Tijuca, the district that hosts most of
the Olympic venues, and there are
endless soft sandy beaches nearby.

Lifes a Beach
Left: Palm trees provide
shade on Copacabana.
Opposite page, clockwise
from top left: Puro serves
creative twists on classic
Brazilian dishes; the Banco
do Brasil Cultural Centre is
at the heart of historic Rio;
Christ the Redeemer; one
of Puros zingy cocktails;
Casa Momus opened after
a two-year renovation;
ball games are popular on
Ipanema Beach

Hotel Fasano

As sleek and streamlined as the

Copa is expansive and baroque, the
Fasano brings luxury to the Ipanema
beachfront. The rooms are smallish
but well designed, with lavish details
and views to die for. The panorama
from the roof terrace takes in the
Two Brothers peaks and Christ the
Redeemer, making sunset cocktails
very special indeed.

Santa Teresa Hotel

The Santa Teresa Hotel RJ MGallery

by Sofitel cultivates an exclusive,
mysterious air from the outside, but
its warm and comfortable on the
inside. Its superb restaurant, Trze,
serves Pablo Ferreyras outstanding
dishes, such as sparklingly fresh
lobster and exquisite lamb chops, in
an utterly romantic setting.

Vila Santa Teresa

This incredible boutique hotel high

in the hills has what may be the best
views of any hotel in Riothe city, the
bay, the ocean, the mountainsfrom
its lovely pool deck and its luxurious,
faultlessly designed rooms. Elegant,
restrained luxury reigns in the 1970s
mansion, which is set on an immense,
leafy estate.

Day 2

9am

Rios magnificent Botanical Garden at the

foot of Corcovado, the mountain from
which Christ the Redeemer presides, is
a great spot for a peaceful start to the
day. The visual treats include a grand
avenue of imperial palms, a sensory
garden, the ruins of the old gunpowder
works, and an orchid house featuring
more than 700 species. The streets of the
surrounding upmarket Jardim Botnico
neighbourhood are rich with vegetation
too and harbour some of the citys best
restaurants and cafes.

11am

Nearby is the stunningly green and

shady Parque Lage, which is home to a
picturesque 1920s mansion that houses
the School of Visual Arts, the alma mater
of Beatriz Milhazes, among other notable
Brazilian artists. After a turn around the

park, enjoy a coffee on the mansions

beautiful terrace.

1pm

One of the gastronomic stars putting

Jardim Botnico firmly on the map,
both locally and internationally, is Puro,
where chef-proprietor Pedro Siqueira
serves creative, delicious twists on
classic Brazilian dishes with sweet
simplicity and unbeatable produce.

3pm

With lunch out of the way, its

time to head off to another leafy
neighbourhood nearby, Gvea, and one
of the citys loveliest art institutions,
Instituto Moreira Salles, which has
an outstanding reputation for fine
art photography. The 1951 mansion
epitomises Brazils world-famous slant
on modernism, with its smooth lines
and white curves accentuated by lush
tropical gardens created by landscape
maestro Roberto Burle Marx. If you
only visit one cultural space in Rio, this
would be an excellent choice.
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images: ROBERT POLIDORI (INSTITUTO MOREIRA SALLES); DANIEL LOBO (CASA MOMUS); TOMAS RANGEL (PURO);
DANNY PUDNY (HELISIGHT); AFP photo; CCBB; BRAZILIAN TOURISM BOARD

Grand Hyatt

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5pm

A short taxi ride from Instituto Moreira

Salles is Silvia Cintra + Box 4, an elegant
white cube space that shows work by
young contemporary artists such as
Cinthia Marcelle and Chiara Banfi, as
well as established figures like Amilcar de
Castro and Nelson Leirner. A short stroll
away is Anita Schwartz Art Gallery. The
building itself, a tall concrete confection,
is worthy of attention along with the
works by Brazilian and international
artists within.

6.30pm

Just a few streets away, Praa Santos

Dumont, a square named after the
pioneer of Brazilian aviation, is a
favourite gathering placeespecially on
Thursday and Sunday evenings. Flocks of
relaxed young cariocas spill out of simple
bars and grills to convene over bottled
beer in the open air.

8pm
rock around the clock
Dont leave Rio without sampling
its electrifying nightlife, whether
in the upscale South Zone or the
fiery downtown area of Lapa

For dinner, head to Rubaiyat Rio, the

local outpost of So Paulos famous
Figueira Rubaiyat restaurant. The
beautiful indoor space is only bettered
by its amazing outdoor dining terrace,
which looks across the Jockey Clubs

Where to Splurge

racecourse to the hills and mountains

beyond. Watch the races in the lap
of luxury over an exquisite dinner of
fine steak and assorted grilled meats.
Afterwards, head over to the Amazonkitsch bar Palaphita, across from the
finishing line, for a drink.

Looking for a souvenir that carries a bit more cultural cachet than a key
ring? Set aside some time for browsing at these Rio boutiques

11pm

Still up for some fun? For a taste of

nightlife beyond the upscale South Zone
(which includes Copacabana, Ipanema,
Leblon, Jardim Botnico and Botafogo,
among other districts), head downtown
to Lapa, where the streets overflow with
samba and the carioca spirit. Utterly chic
Casa Momus is a recent addition, the
result of a loving, two-year renovation of
an early-1800s building. Try for a table
on the front terrace to watch the street
fun, or settle inside over wine or a zingy
caipirinha. Roll on to Rio Scenarium, a
beautiful bar-cum-antiques emporium,
where you can samba till dawn, or look
up Circo Voador or Fundio Progresso,
two lively Lapa music venues, where
you might just catch one of the stars of
Brazilian music. For a saideirathats
Portuguese for the last drink of the
nightwrap up with a tipple and a saltcod rissole at Nova Capela.

DESIGN

images: BRAZILIAN TOURISM BOARD

Mercado Moderno
The gold standard in
Brazilian design since the
1940s, Mercado Moderno
(above) is an essential
stop in Centro for anyone
interested in modernist
furniture and masters such
as Joaquim Tenreiro, Srgio
Rodrigues, Oscar Niemeyer,
Lina Bo Bardi and Jos
Zanine Caldas. Look out,
too, for stunning pieces by
Rios brilliant new guard.

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BEAUTY

Granado
The classic brand of
Brazilian toiletries was
founded in this superb old
pharmacy in Centro in 1870.
Granado also snapped up
the 1930s heritage brand
Phebo in 2004 and gave
new life to a line of eaux de
cologne that had long been

serving Rios finest ladies.

If you only buy one thing,
make it the Carioca range
of liquid soap, lotion and
assorted unguentsthe
spirit of Rio in a bottle.

FASHION

Isabela Capeto
Isabela Capeto captures
Rios bohemian heart and
serves it up in the form
of beautifully wearable
garments, including floaty
but structured dresses, with
a totally tropical, handmade
feel, plus a range for children
aged from four to 10. Her
boutique is in Horto.

JEWELLERY

Antonio Bernardo
As consistently creative
and exciting as they are
lavish and luxe, Antonio
Bernardos exquisite gold
treasures beg to be seen,

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admired and possessed.

The boutique is in Ipanema.

ART

Galeria Inox
This wonderful gallery in
Copacabana juggles a
deft mix of hot new talent
and solidly curated classic
Brazilian art. Look for
edgy work by So Paulos
Alexandre Orion, and
Spanish painter Xevi Sols
hyper-real, hypnotically
transfixing portraits.

SWIMWEAR

Adriana Degreas
Worn by the likes of Poppy
Delevingne and Alessandra
Ambrosio, the itsy bitsy
bikinis and other luxury
beachwear of this homegrown brand (below) have
a jet-set following.

LEATHER

Patricia Viera
The local fashion designer,
whose boutique is in
Leblon, creates incredibly
feminine silhouettes in bright,
patterned and embellished
leathers.

BITS AND BOBS

Cassino Atlntico
This four-floor shopping
mall beside the Sofitel in
Copacabana is an Aladdins
cave of antiques, art and
collectibles.