Beetroot Farming in Kenya

Beetroot farming in Kenya has become more popular recently.It is very easy to grow, requires
little attention, and the season is long. It has a rich earthy flavour and vibrant colour and is
delicious either in salads, or as a cooked vegetable .
Beetroot is relatively straight forwards to grow and accordingly it is very popular, with a unique
flavor and color to add to salads and juice. Beetroot is biennial which is grown like an annual
vegetable which should be grown in damp areas. Once the beetroot is ready, harvest by lifting the
leaves then cut them off, and store on a damp newspaper. The beetroot should then keep for 2 to
3 months. It has a wide variety of uses in the kitchen which means that you are unlikely to waste
any of it. It can be used in soups, salads and chutneys and also juice, it is also good served as a
hot vegetable, and the high sugar content means that it can be used as a good base for home
made wine.
Beetroot juice is extracted from raw beetroot and is rich in potassium, magnesium and vitamin c,
it is a known fact that drinking beetroot juice helps in lowering blood pressure, as much as
beetroot has its health benefits it also has some side effects lets look at the health benefits -it rich
in antioxidants and nitrates which helps in lowering high blood pressure and also improves blood
circulation -increases muscle strength -it destroys free radicals in the body, preventing cell
damage -very beneficial to people who are anemic
The benefits are quite a number but some people might react to it (suffer side effects) the best
way to take beetroot juice and reduce the possibility of side effects is to dilute it with water or
vegetables or other fruit juice. Beetroot juice has very strong and earthy flavor, it is best
consumed by mixing with other vegetables and fruit juices.
The best fruits and vegetables to dilute with are apples, carrots, pineapples, cucumber ( p.s
pregnant women should consult the doctor before drinking beetroot juice.
Now to the side effects Allergic reaction This includes rashes, itchiness, breaking out in hives,
chills and fever. Most side effects are common. Diarrhea (in some people) Beeturia Kidney
stones

Beetroot Farming in Kenya Guide

Planting Beetroot: Beetroot seeds are wonderful little things that are
actually small clusters of several true seeds, which is why you often get several seedlings
popping up right next to each other. Beetroot takes around 3 months from seed to harvest and can
be started outdoors as early as April. This makes successional sowing, and with it a constant
supply of lovely red globes, possible for many months. Sow the seeds about 5cm (2in) apart in
rows, leaving about 25cm (10in) between rows. Plant the seeds about 2cm (in) deep and give
them a good watering. The closer the plants, the smaller the beets will be. Planting a few new
seeds every 2 weeks will give you a good supply throughout the summer and into autumn.
Looking after the Plants: Beetroots require very little plant care. Just keep the area as weed free
as your time permits and watch the red globes expand! Remember the leaves are edible, so when
you thin your seedlings out, keep the leaves to add to a salad.
Water your beetroot in very dry weather, as dryness can lead to woodiness. Do not water too
heavily, otherwise the roots might split.
Growing Beetroot in Containers: Beetroot can also be grown in pots and containers. Choose
the round varieties of beetroot rather than the cyclindrical types. Choose a large pot, at least
30cm (12in) in diameter. Put some stones, or broken crocks in the bottom to aid drainage. Fill the
pot with soil. If your soil is very heavy then add some sand. Sow your seeds on top and then
cover with a thin layer of compost, and water well. Beetroot grown in pots and containers will
need frequent watering as they grow. Be careful not to overwater though.
Commercially Growing Beetroot

Beetroot can be planted any time of the year. However, if you plant beetroot during the summer,
it can reduce the quality of the roots. The ideal temperature for seed germination is 4.5 to 30C.
Take note of the seeding rate and it should be 3 to 5 kg/ha but this should be based on the needed
crop density. Sow the seeds at 1.2 to 2.5 cm deep and each plant should be 60 to 70 cm apart. Its
up to you to plant them in single rows or double rows. For commercial beetroot farming, you can
also grow then in multiple rows. Center spacing should be at 1.5 to 1.8 meters.
Every bed can consist of 3 to 5 rows that are 30 cm apart. Feed the plants properly with fertilizer
to get the needed nutrition. You can drill down the fertilizer on the sides of the plant or you can
also cultivate them. Learn the ways to control weeds, insects, and diseases. You may need to

consider buying harvesting machines so that the task can be finished in no time. The harvested
beetroots will be processed. You can expect about 35 tons/ha in terms of yields.
Beetroot Varieties in Kenya
1. Bolthardy good flavour, smooth skinned round roots, good bolt resistance,
good for early sowing, RHS Award of Garden Merit
2. Detroit 6 Rubidus bolt resistant, early cropping, smooth round firm roots
3. Chioggia Pink beautiful red and white rings inside, round roots, sweet and
tender
4. Cylindra dark crimson cylindrical roots, late season, bolt resistant,
excellent for storage
5. Burpees Golden good flavoured round roots, tops can be eaten like
spinach, yellow coloured roots

Harvesting and Storing Beetroot

Harvesting generally starts when the globes are about 5cm (2in) in diameter, about golf-ball size.
If you want larger globes, thin the rows as they grow to give the remaining ones more space. We
tend to pick ours on the smaller side as they are more tender. This is one of the joys of home
grown vegetables, you can pick them when they taste their best rather than achieving their
maximum weight or size for selling in shops.
Storing Beetroot
The best way to store beetroot in their natural form is by lifting them and storing them in boxes.
To do this, lift the roots carefully and cut off the foliage, leaving about 5cm (2in). Only
undamaged roots will be suitable for storing, so remove any with visible damage. Pop the good
ones in boxes that contain a moist medium, such as sand or leafmould. If your box is deep you
might be able to get several layers per box. The trick to successful storage is to keep them in a
cool, but frost free, environment such as a garage or shed.
If youve still got too many, then leave some to overwinter. The roots wont be any good for
harvesting but you will have delicious beetroot leaves to eat come the following spring.
Pickling Beetroot
The other way to store beetroot is by pickling them and storing them in jars. Pickling beetroot is
very easy. Clean your beetroot, leaving a little of the stalk attached (to stop the juices running
out), and then either boil or bake your beetroot. Boiling will take between 30-40 minutes

depending on their size. If baking, wrap in foil either individually or all together and bake at
180C for about 1 hour.
Whilst the beetroot are cooking, prepare the vinegar. What you put into the vinegar is up to you.
Go with the flavours that you enjoy. You can add peppercorns, coriander seeds, whole cloves,
bay leaves, fresh ginger, mustard seeds, chilli, whatever you fancy. If you want a sweet pickle,
then add some sugar. Simmer your vinegar (malt or wine) with the spices and sugar, if using, for
about 10 minutes.
Once the beetroot are cooked, remove their skins and slice or dice however you like them. The
thinner the slices, the more vinegary they will get. Place in a sterilized jar, cover completely with
the hot vinegar mixture and seal immediately. Label and date your jars when cool. Leave for a
few weeks for the flavours to infuse. The pickle should last a year at least.
Pests, Diseases and Problems affecting beetroot farming in Kenya
Beetroot is one of those wonderful crops that tends to be relatively trouble free. Birds may have a
go at the seedlings, in which case you can cover them with horticultural fleece until they are
larger and less appealing to our feathered friends.
1. Bolting may be a problem. This is where the plant flowers before the roots have formed.
This can occur in dry conditions, or if thinning has been left too late. If you have trouble
with bolting, then try growing a bolt resistant variety such as Bolthardy.
2. Aphids may attack the leaves causing them to curl over. We find squashing them between
your fingers the most effective way of getting rid of them, particularly if there are not too
many. Otherwise, you can spray the leaves with horticultural soap, or a weak solution of
washing up liquid such as Ecover.
3. Fungal Leaf Spot sometimes affects beetroot. This appears as round brown spots on the
leaves. The middle of the spots sometimes fall out to leave holes. This is not usually very
serious. Just remove any badly affected leaves, and remove all fallen leaves at the end of
the season to reduce the number of overwintering fungal spores.

A guide to Broccoli farming in Kenya

Farmers are fast adopting broccoli farming in Kenya as more people become conscious of their
diets and embrace healthy eating habits. In the retail market, an average-sized head of broccoli
retails at about Sh50. This means that farmers get as much as Sh25 for the same head. The
income generating potential of this vegetable, coupled with the rising demand for the same is
enough to make broccoli farming a worthy venture for any agripreneur.
Generally, broccoli grows well in cool weather. The vegetable also grows well in well-watered
and fertile soils. Additionally, it requires at least six hours of sun every day. In Kenya, Broccoli
grows well in central Kenya, Rift Valley, parts of Eastern and Western regions. Farmers are
advised to grow broccoli in soils that have a pH of between 6.0 and 7.0 as this discourages
clubroot disease. You can ask your local extension officer for advice.
Farmers can also mix compost manure and nitrogen-rich organic fertilisers in their soils in order
to promote good growth in the broccoli plant.
Before planting, it is important to consult with the local seed stockist (e.g. Kenya seed) to
understand the varieties that do well in different parts of the country. Seeds need to be planted in
a nursery bed first. The farmer should also water the nursery regularly and put some shade over
the germinated crop to avoid them stretching and getting leggy. Seedlings should be
transplanted 14 days after germinating (or when the broccoli seedlings have two sets of leaves).
Broccoli should be planted in a well-drained, fertile but moist soil, and should be spaced at 2
feet between rows and 24 inches between crops in the same row. Farmers need to use a low
nitrogen fertiliser during planting. The same fertiliser should be applied when the crops are 12
inches tall, and when the first buds appear. In total therefore, broccoli needs three low-nitrogen
fertiliser applications.
Smart farmers need to look out for aphids and cabbage worms, which can wreak havoc on an
entire broccoli crop if not well managed.
Growing broccoli (Brassica spp.) is easy, if you plant it at the right time, and make sure it has

steady, regular water.

There are some soil tweaks and pests to watch out for, but broccoli is as easy to grow as other
cruciferous vegetables.
Home-grown broccoli can be harvested at the peak of freshness, and prepared moments after
cutting it from the plant.
After harvest, most broccoli varieties produce a second crop of small side-shoots that can be
harvested 2-3 weeks after the main head.
Broccoli has the same growth pattern as other fall vegetables. Broccoli grows best under cool,
wet conditions.
As long as conditions remain good, it will continue to store nutrients in leaves and stalks. Hot,
dry weather will cause it to head up prematurely, producing small, inferior heads.
Garden Preparation for Planting Broccoli
Broccoli is a heavy feeder, and performs best with a deep root zone in soil with ample organic
matter.
When growing Broccoli, prepare the soil to a depth of 12-20 (30-51cm). Lay down a 2-3 (5-8
cm) layer of good garden compost or composted manure when you prepare the soil.
Broccoli and other cruciferous vegetables grow best in soil with a slightly acidic to slightly
alkaline pH, pH 6.8-7.4. See Changing Soil pH for tips on adjusting soil pH.
If your soil is lean or youre short on compost, you can amend the soil with a good organic
fertilizer and mix it into the soil before planting.
Broccoli also benefits from supplemental calcium in the soil.
Planting Broccoli
Broccoli seedlings should have succulent stems and large, green leaves. Seedlings with hard
stems or purplish, stunted leaves have been too long in small pots and will produce tiny broccoli
heads.
In fertile soil, broccoli plants can spread 2-3 across, by 2 high.
If youre growing broccoli in a single-dug bed (soil prepared to a depth of 1025 cm), set
plants out 15-18 (38-46 cm) apart, in rows 18-24 (46-61 cm) apart.
If youre growing broccoli in a raised garden or double-dug bed (soil prepared to a depth of 182446-61 cm), set plants out 18-20 (46-51 cm) apart, in rows 18-24 (46-61 cm) apart.
With most vegetables, deep soil preparation allows you to tighten spacing between plants, but
with broccoli and other cruciferous vegetables, the plants grow larger and need a little more
space when planted in a deep, fertile soil.
Harvesting and storage
When the florets at the outer edges of the broccoli head begin to loosen, then it is time to harvest

the crop. The farmer should cut the broccoli stems at an angle to prevent water settling in the
stem and occasioning rot. It is important for smart broccoli farmers to understand that the
vegetable has a relatively short shelf-life. It is therefore important to get it to the market
(especially if you are handling the transport logistics) as soon as possible.
Things to note:
Too much nitrogen encourages leaf growth hence delaying the heads from setting
Weeding may disturb broccoli roots so its recommended that farmers mulch their crops to control
weeds
Some side shoots may grow from the main stem where the head has been cut off hence providing
several harvests to a farmer
Hot temperatures may become a hindrance to good head formation
Hot temperatures may also lead to immature flowering i.e. broccoli plant forms a flower stalk
before forming a compact head.
Broccoli Diseases
Bacterial Soft Rot is the only common broccoli disease Ive encountered. Sections of the head
darken, go soft, and begin to collapse.
The disease is more common under warm, wet conditions, and with broccoli varieties that have
flat heads. Varieties with dome-shaped heads (e.g., Arcadia, Marathon, and Shogun) are
more resistant.
Other broccoli diseases common to large-scale field production include Black Rot, Club Root,
and Fusarium Yellows.
Most broccoli diseases enter plants through injured tissues, so garden practices that limit injuries
to plants and organic pest control measures that reduce damage by chewing insects can go a long
way toward preventing the spread of diseases.

Watermelon Farming in Kenya and all you need to know

Watermelon farming in Kenya is what is behind the fruit known for being juicy and sweet.
Known to reduce stress by researchers watermelons have benefits like reducing fatigue.
Potassium, Vitamin C, lycopene and iron found in watermelon drives away any feeling of fatigue

you may experience. It is a nutritious fruit. It is low in calories and has no fat , this makes it an
ideal diet fruit.

Planting an acre of watermelon costs around 15,000 Ksh if you own the land. An acre gives an
average return of 70,000 80,000 Ksh. If you are hiring land factor in the rates. The demand for
watermelons is consistent all year round. This means that watermelon farming in Kenya is easy
to start and profitable.
Growing watermelon is simple. Once they sprout, watermelon plants require very little
maintenance. Most of the time, you just leave them alone and watch them grow. There are many
different varieties of watermelon. In recent decades, seedless watermelon varieties have been
developed that are easier to eat. When most people think of eating watermelon, summer picnics
come to mind a nice, cold slice of watermelon on a hot day is a real treat. However, there are
lots of other ways to use watermelon. Because it has a very high water content, its not possible
to store watermelon for long periods of time.
Watermelon Farming in Kenya: Growing Watermelon Patch
When raising watermelon, garden space is the main issue. Watermelons grow on vining plants.
These vines spread out along the ground and can reach 15 feet in length. Since the plants get so
large, its not really practical to grow watermelons in containers. Newer bush watermelon
varieties have become available in recent years. The vines on these plants may only grow 4-5
feet long. However, these bush varieties should still be planted in a traditional garden for best
results.
Watermelon Seedlings

Watermelon seeds are usually sowed directly in the garden. Its possible to start growing
seedlings indoors and them transplant them into the garden. However, watermelons dont like it
when their root system is disturbed. Watermelons need to be planted where they get at least 6-8
hours of direct sunlight per day. Sunlight is crucial for fruit development. Most watermelon
plants will produce 4-5 fruit per vine. The fruit is usually ready for harvest 75-100 days after
planting, depending on the variety.
Watermelons have a good resistance to disease and pest problems. If planted in nutrient rich soil,
watermelons dont usually need to be fertilized. They require a fair amount of water for the first
few weeks of growth. When the fruit sets, you can almost stop watering the plants. As the fruit
develops, the less water the plant gets the better. Less water will increase the sugar content and
concentration in the fruit, leading to sweeter, more crisp melons.
When planting watermelon, choose a variety that appeals to you. Watermelons can be as small as
3 pounds or as large as 200 pounds, depending on the variety. Some varieties are seedless. Others
have orange flesh, as opposed to red.
Watermelon Patch
After youve chosen the variety you want to plant, make sure the soil has been well tilled. The
dirt should be loose and airy down to a depth of 8-10 inches. If you have fairly dense soil, work
some organic material into the dirt. This might include well rotted manure, grass clippings or
compost. Additionally, make sure you have enough space in your garden. Watermelons need
plenty of room so you should allow 6-8 feet between plants. You should select a location that
gets at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight everyday.
When planting watermelon, the seeds are usually directly sowed in the garden. Watermelon
plants dont tolerate root disturbance very well, so transplanting seedlings usually leads to a high
failure rate.
Wait until to soil temperatures have warmed to 70 degrees F before planting watermelon. Using a
hoe or garden rake, create mounds or hills that are 4 feet across and about 6 inches high. Using
the end of a hoe or your finger, make holes in the mounds 1 inch deep and 6-8 inches apart. Place
a seed in each hole and cover with loose soil. You will be able to fit 7-8 seeds in each mound.
After planting, water the seeds in thoroughly.
Watermelon Varieties in Kenya Whats the Difference?
There are several watermelon varieties available to the backyard vegetable gardener. Some
varieties are seedless. others have orange or yellow flesh, instead of red. Some varieties are
small, while others can grow to more than 200 pounds. Theres even a variety that has speckled
skin that resembles the moon and stars in the night sky.
Heres a list of some more common watermelon varieties in Kenya, along with fruit and
plant descriptions.

Watermelon on Vine
1. Sugar Baby matures in 75 days, very sweet melons weighing 9 pounds, red flesh, short
vining plants, good for limited space
2. Moon and Stars matures in 95 days, dark green skin with yellow spots resembling
moon and stars in the night sky, sweet melons reach 40 pounds, pink to red flesh
3. Black Diamond matures in 90 days, very round melon weighs up to 75 pounds, vibrant
red flesh, good all-around watermelon
4. Yellow Crimson matures in 80 days, round melons reach 20 pounds, bright yellow
flesh with black seeds, sweet taste
5. Orange Tendersweet matures in 85 days, bright orange flesh with white seeds, sweet
and tender, melons reach 25 pounds
6. Orangeglo matures in 90 days, very sweet and crisp, oval-shaped melons average 40
pounds, bright orange flesh with off-white seeds
7. Kleckleys Sweet matures in 85 days, extra crisp and sweet, thin rind, red flesh with
white seeds, 40 pound melons, heirloom variety
8. Big Crimson matures in 90 days, this variety of watermelon produces 30 pound
melons, sweet, red flesh, dark green skin
9. Charleston Gray matures in 85 days, long vigorous vines, light green skin with sweet
red flesh, 30 pounds
10. Crimson Sweet matures in 85 days, this watermelon variety produces 25 pound melons
with sweet red flesh, high sugar content, thin rinds, very disease resistant
11. Jubilee matures in 95 days, 40 pound melons with green stripes and red flesh, very fine
texture, grows well in hot weather
12. Louisiana Sweet matures in 90 days, oblong melons reach 25 pounds, bright red flesh
is crisp and sweet, black seeds
13. Ruby Hybrid Seedless matures in 85 days, oval shaped melons reach 8 pounds, crisp
and super sweet flesh, seedless
14. Carolina Cross matures in 100 days, this watermelon variety produces 200+ pound
melons, sweet red flesh, oblong shape
15. Georgia Rattlesnake matures in 90 days, pale green stripes resemble a snake skin,
bright pink flesh, sweet and crisp, reaches 30 pounds, heirloom variety

16. Congo matures in 90 days, round melons reach 35 pounds, green stripes, sweet red
flesh and thick rinds
17. Snack Pack matures in 75 days, 3-4 pound round melons, sweet red flesh, seedless,
solid dark green skin
18. Sugarlee matures in 85 days, 15 pound melons, very sweet red flesh, green striped
rinds, disease resistant
Watermelon Seedlings
After the seedlings emerge and are a couple of inches long, you should keep the 3 most
promising plants and pull the rest out of the ground. This process is known as thinning.
Because watermelons have such a high water content, too many plants in one mound will lead to
poor fruit production. More plants competing for the same amount of water and nutrients will
lead to poorly formed watermelons.
Now that youre done planting your watermelon patch, you can think about watering and
fertilizing your plants for maximum fruit production.
Watering and Fertilizing Watermelon
You should think about fertilizing watermelon after the vines begin to spread out and again when
the blossoms appear and the fruit is set. You should think about watering your watermelon patch
for the first few weeks after planting the seeds.
Watermelon plants have somewhat deep roots that are good at extracting moisture from the soil.
Until these roots are developed, you should water the plants regularly with slow, deep soaks. For
the first 3 weeks after planting, water your watermelon patch once or twice a week if no rain falls
in your area. After the seeds have sprouted, scale back the watering to once every 10 days or so.
When the vines begin to spread out, you can stop watering all together. As long as rain falls
every 2 weeks, you wont have to water your watermelons again. After the fruit begins to get
large, stop watering for good, even if no rain falls. This will allow the sugars in the fruit to
concentrate and the flesh to stay crisp. This makes for much better tasting watermelon.
Watermelon Blossoms
Wait until the vines begin to spread out before fertilizing watermelon. If using a granular
fertilizer, choose a balanced one like a 10-10-10 or 5-5-5. These three numbers mean that there
are balanced amounts of nitrogen, potassium and phosphate in the fertilizer. Follow the
manufacturers directions for the correct dosage. Most granular fertilizers are applied at a rate of
1 1/2 pounds per 100 square feet. Scatter the fertilizer around the plants and water it in well.
Make sure that the fertilizer does not come in contact with the plant, as this may cause the plant
to burn. A water-soluble type fertilizer also works well. A second application of fertilizer can be
used after the blossoms appear and the fruit begins to set. This will ensure that the plants are
getting the energy they need to produce high quality fruit.

Now that you know about watering and fertilizing watermelons, its time to think about
harvesting them.
Curious About Harvesting Watermelon?
Like most other fruits and vegetables, timing is everything when it comes to harvesting
watermelon. Pick the fruit too soon and it wont be sweet. Wait too long to pick the fruit, and it
may be mushy and unappealing.
Watermelon Ready For Harvest
There are four steps to take to tell if your watermelon is ready for harvest. If all of these tests
indicate that the watermelon is ready to be picked, you know youre in for a real treat.
Inspect the watermelon. If it has lost its shiny appearance, youre off to a good start.
Thump the watermelon. Rap it with your knuckles. If it sounds hollow inside, its getting close to
being ready.
Inspect the stem. You should see a spiral coil near the stem of the watermelon. If the coil is
brown and dried up, the melon is almost ready to be picked.
Inspect the bottom of the watermelon. Look at the spot that was laying on the ground. If its still
white, the watermelon isnt ready yet. If the spot has turned a rich yellow color, go ahead and
harvest the watemelon.
Harvested Watermelon
If you always follow these four steps when harvesting watermelon, you can be assured that the
fruit you pick will be sweet, crisp and in peak condition to eat.
Watermelon Slices
After picking watermelons, you should store them in the refrigerator if at all possible. Some
varieties of watermelon are just too big to fit in the fridge. They can be kept in a cooler with
some ice for a day or so. Unfortunately, watermelon doesnt keep well for very long, even in the
refrigerator. A whole watermelon will keep for 7-10 days in the fridge. A cut watermelon will last
4-5 days, as long as it is covered. Watermelon is best served cold. Ideally, you would harvest
watermelon in the morning, chill it in the fridge and eat it later the same day. Some backyard
vegetable gardeners choose to grow smaller melons because they know they will fit whole in the
refrigerator and keep slightly longer.
Starting Watermelon Farming In Kenya
We will start with planting a watermelon in Kenya in just ten easy steps

Choose a location in your shamba and prepare the soil. Choose loamy well drained soil. Choose
a position away from shade that can allow for at least 6 hours of direct sunlight. Watermelons
produce vines leave at least a space of 1.8 meters between rows.
Till the soil for the beds thoroughly, break the earth well . remove any weeds or vegetation if
there are.
Use a tractor or garden hoe to form mounds of earth (hills) to plant seeds in. Space these 2- 6
feet apart, depending on the size of your garden. This ensures that the soil is loose and the roots
grow well. it increases air flow to the plants . this also ensures that excess moisture drains away
from direct contact with the roots of your plant. small scale watermelon farming in Kenya may
not need a tractor.
Select the variety of watermelon you want to grow. Watermelons come in sizes ranging from 1.3
kg to 32 kg and in either red or yellow flesh. Jubilee, Charleston Grey, and Congo are large,
cylindrical varieties. While Sugar Baby and Ice Box are smaller, globe shaped types. Farmers
practicing watermelon farming in Kenya can buy from trusted suppliers locally.
Form a flat, slightly concave depression on the top of the hill, and then make three or four holes
in the soil with a tool or your finger, 2.5cm deep. You can put up to four seeds in a hole. Cover
the depression with surrounding soil and press lightly. This prevents moisture from escaping.
Watch for sprouts to appear. The seeds will sprout and plants will emerge within 7-10 days,
depending on the soil temperature and the depth they are covered when planted. Remember to
water close to the ground to for water to reach the small roots.
Cover hill with a suitable material after the plants have reached a height of about 10cm. You can
choose dry grass, saw dust, or compost. Try to apply the mulch as close to the plants as possible
to keep away weeds, retain moisture, and to keep the soil from overheating from direct sunlight
around the shallow, new roots.
After the flowering, water at least every 3 days in dry weather. Do not water a lot. Watermelons
generally have a low water requirement.
Weed regularly. Weed around base, along and ahead of the vines.
Harvest your water melons. Under ideal conditions when practicing watermelon farming in
Kenya, maturity to full sweetness is in about three months of warm weather.
To harvest, cut the watermelons from the vine, using a knife or garden shears.
To test the ripeness of a watermelon, thump it. A dull noise sounding back means that it has
ripened. Also, check the underside if it is pale yellow then it is ripe.

How to Grow Best Chilies for Profit in Kenya

The nutritional value of Kenya Chillies, just like others, cannot be undermined as they are a great
source of vitamin C, Vitamin A, Vitamin B complex and minerals like manganese, iron,
potassium and magnesium. The capsaicin in them contain anti-bacterial, anti-diabetic, anticarcinogenic and analgesic properties. They also help to reduce cholesterol levels in the body, aid
in digestion, help relieve migraines, muscle and joint pain.

Given the ideal warm weather conditions, Kenya is a hub for growth of great chilies. The warmer
the growing conditions the hotter the chili.
How to Grow Chilies for Profit in Kenya
The chilies should be planted in an area where it can get adequate sunlight. You also need to
ensure that the temperature doesnt drop below 15C or else the growth of the chilies is inhibited.
When you see flowers, this means that chilies will begin to appear after a couple of weeks! Bushlike chili plants can be achieved by cutting the tips of the plant when it is already 6 tall. Chilies
are colored green and after several weeks, the fruits will turn red. Harvest the chilies before they
shrivel.
Heres a tip the longer the chilies remain attached to the plant, the fierier they become. Fruits
can be frozen for later use. When handling chilies, make sure that you wash your hands
thoroughly to avoid any contact with the eyes. After harvesting, you can now prepare spicy
recipes that you can enjoy with your family. The excess chilies can be sold for profit.

Cultivars
The varieties of Kenyan chillies represent some of the hottest of them; Cayenne Pepper, Bird
Eye, Jalapeno, Serenade, habareno and more.
Ecological requirements
Altitude

The crop can grow at elevations from sea level to 1500m above sea level

Rainfall

The crop thrives in areas with medium rainfall about 600-1,200mm per annum.

Excess rain can causes leaf shedding and cause rotting

Extreme water deficits can stunt growth and cause flower abortion and fruit drops hence
irrigation is recommended where rainfall is insufficient.

Temperature

Chilies are warm seasoned crops hence sensitive to frost. The optimum temperatures for
growth and fruit set are 20-300C.

Night temperatures below 16oC and day temperature above 320C can however
prevent/reduce fruits set.

Low humidity and high temperatures cause abscission of buds, flower and fruit.

Soils

Light loamy, non-acidic, well drained soils are ideal for capsicum growth but with proper
soil management, chili can grow in a wide range of soil types. Soil pH of 4.3-9.7 is well
tolerated. However the optimum is pH is 6.0-6.5.

Planning Production

Production should be done in collaboration with the buyer so that the produce can be
collected immediately after drying

Get certified seeds from a recommended source.

The size of farm should be determined by the labour available especially during
harvesting.

Site selection

Site should not have had any solanum related crops (potatoes, tomatoes, brinjals tobacco)
for the past at least 1 year.

Propagation

Chilies should be started in the nursery.

Nursery Preparation

Make raised beds, 1m wide and of convenient length.

Apply manure and work these into the soil.

Make drills across the bed about 10cm apart, sow seeds and cover lightly with the
soil.

Mulch the beds lightly and water regularly.

Thin to 2-3cm after the plants germinate

Remove the mulch when seeds have germinated and control pests and diseases as
the need arises.

Seed rate

400-500g per hectare is required depending on spacing (about 20 grams of seed should
give at least 500 good plants).

Land preparation

The site should be well prepared in advance and manure applied. The land should be
ploughed and harrowed to a fine tilth.

Transplanting

Seedlings are transplanted when they are about 8-10cm high with at least 4 true leaves.
Transplants should be set as soon as possible in the field to avoid drying out of the roots.
Apply grass mulch to protect the fruits from water splash.

Spacing

Monocrop/pure- Recommended spacing is 45cm (within rows) by 60cm (between rows)

Intercropping-Intercropping can supplement income from the farm. Spacing of 1 -2 m for

intercrop production is recommended depending on the crop.

Fertilizer application

Application of up to 10 tons/ha of Farm Yard Manure or compost is recommended

depending on soil organic matter content (2 handfuls per planting hole).

250 kg/ha TSP or DAP may be applied during transplanting. Top-dress with 100 kg/ha
CAN when plants are about 15 cm and later with 200 kg/ha CAN after 4 weeks.

Crop Rotation

Chili should not be grown after other solanaceous plants in the same field. Rotate chili
with other crops e.g. tubers, legumes (cassava, sweet potatoes, beans, soya, groundnuts
and bananas).

Mulching

Dry plant materials are laid on the soil surface in the inter row space to preserve moisture
and smother weeds.

This also reduces the need for hand weeding hence low chances of transmitting diseases
such as bacterial and fusarium wilt through contaminated tools.

Pests

Aphids, mites, thrips and white flies

Control

Timely weeding to destroy host plants

Use recommended insecticides

Root knot nematode is usually a problem only in poor sandy soils so add organic
matter before planting.

Diseases

Common diseases include Anthracnose, bacterial wilts, Fusarium wilt, late blight,
Downey and Powder mildews and rust.

Virus infections (tobacco mosaic virus, cucumber mosaic virus) are a major factor in
reducing the productive life of commercial chili fields.

Control

Remedial measures to disease attacks include; use of certified seeds and ensuring
field hygiene

Remove virus-diseased plants (mottled leaves, stunted) from the field

Practicing crop rotation

Applying fungicides for fungal infections

Harvesting

The fruits are ready for first picking between 2 1/2 to 3 months after transplanting.

Picking continues for 3 to 4 months and it is recommended to harvest all the red ripe
chilies as soon as they appear.

Harvesting can be done once or twice a week.

Harvest mature, deep red fruits only of length not more than 2 cm. Chilies should be
picked without stalks.

Damaged, overripe, or green chilies should not be taken to the dryer.

The fruit should be picked early in the day after dew evaporates from the plant.
Note

It is far more profitable to harvest all the fruit from a few plants than half of the fruit from
many plants.

Yield

Depending on management yields of 1,000 kg to 3,000 kg per acre can be achieved.

Well-managed farms should be able to yield at least 600 grams of fresh chili per plant per
year or 200 grams of dried chili.

A well maintained crop should produce up to 3 tons of chili per acre.

Post Harvest Handling

Drying

Drying takes 3 to 4 days depending on the weather.

Do not dry chilies on the ground. The fruits are dried above the ground usually on a rack
with free movement of air (jute perforated material on top of the drying rack may be
used).

Do not dry directly in the sun/open to avoid rain damage and sunburn.

Fruits should be shriveled yet not brittle (moisture content of 7.5 to 8 percent)

Grading

This can take place while drying to save time.

The graded chili is moved to the lower shelf of the drying rack for two to three days.

Packing and storage

Use gunny bags or locally woven baskets for storage but not polyethylene.

On-farm storage without adequate storage facilities is not encourage

Challenges in production

Harvesting is the most labour intensive activity in chilli production. This has been a
deterrent to large scale production of chili.

It is advisable not to plant more bushes than you can easily harvest.

Advice to potential growers

The market demands top quality and consistent product. Drying and grading operations
needs to be maintained at high standards.

Start on a small scale and expand production as you get experienced.

It is important to plan production with the Buyer in order to ensure timely delivery of the
produce after drying.