Len ste gn 211)KNITTING BASICS All you need to know to take up your needles and get knitting Betty Barnden IBARRON’S)‘A QUARTO BOOK Fist edition for the United States, its territories and dependencies, and Canada published in 2002 by Barron's, Educational Series, Inc. All inquiries should be addressed to: Barron's Educational Series, Inc 250 Wireless Boulevard Hauppauge, New York 11788 http://www.barronseduc.com © Copyright 2002 by Quarto Inc. All ights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form, by photostat, microfilm, xerography, or any other means, of incorporated into any information retrieval systern, electronic or mechanical, without the written permission of the copyright owner ISBN-13: 978-0-7641-5546-8 ISBN-10: 0-7641-5546-6 library of Congress Catalog Card No. 2001098710 Conceived, designed, and produced by Quarto Publishing pic The Old Brewery 6 Blundell Street London N7 98H QUAR KBA Project editor Nadia Naaib ‘Art editor Karla Jennings Designer Michelle Canatella Mlustrator Coral Mula Text editors Sue Whiting, Kate Phelps Pattern checker Pauline Hornsby Assistant art director Penny Cobb Photographer Paul Forrester Indexer Pamela Elis Art director Moira Clinch Publisher Piers Spence Manufactured by Universal Graphics Pie Ltd Singapore Printed by SNP Leefung Printers Ltd, China 98765CONTENTS Introduction GETTING STARTED @ @ Materials Basic Skills PROJECTS AND TECHNIQUES e@ © @® @6@ eee Combining Knit and Purl Provecr 1: Striped Garter Scarf Finishing Prosect 2: Baby Afghan Gauge Working from Patterns Prosect 3: Tank Top Shaping Prouecr 4: Family Sweater Knitting in the Round Provecr 5: Sweater and Hat Details Prosect 6: Toddler Top Stitch Library Prosecr 7: Lady's Lacy Vest Prosecr 8: Cable Cushion Fair Isle (Two-Color Knitting) Provect 9: ir Isle Sweater Intarsia (Picture Knitting) Finishing Touches Prosect 10: Child’s Sweater Glossary Abbreviations and Symbols Index 10 16 34 38 40 50 52 60 62 72 74 TH 81 86 89 94 105 107 110 114 7 122 126 127 128Knitting is a wonderfully flexible art: it’s fun to work and the results can be as practical or as creative as you wish. Once you have learned a few basic skills, you can create warm, soft, easy-to- wear garments (and other items too) in exciting textures and color combinations. This book shows you how to knit from the very beginning, step- by-step, progressing from the elementary stitches through to a variety of interesting techniques. Begin by learning how to cast on, knit, purl, and bind off. When you have mastered these basics, learn to work textured stitch patterns, Fair Isle and picture knitting, and how to shape and finish a garment. Each topic is fully explained and illustrated, showing clearly how to work the basic stitch formations and other techniques. Knitting has a long and vai 1d history, and different techniques have developed at various times in different parts of the world, so sometimes there are several ways of working to achieve the same result. In these ‘cases, this book describes the simplest method, or a method in common use today. You may discover other ways of working for yourself, or learn from other knitters. Along the way, projects for practical and stylish garments, accessories, and articles for the home give you the opportunity to use each technique as you learn it. If you work through the book in order, you will find that the projects at each stage use only those stitches and methods you have already learned. Read thebook with yarn and needles close at hand, making small test- pieces to try out each technique, and then if you wish, make the project following each section. By the end of the book you will have acquired all the basic skills needed to pursue this fascinating, relaxing, and creative craft. Knitting is an ideal hobby in today’s busy world: it can be laid aside and picked up again at any time, requires little sp equipment, and is easy to carry around with you. The new hand- knitter will find today’s super-chunky and bulky yarns ideal for achieving quick results, and the new generation of micro-fiber yarns unsurpassed for comfort and practicality. The wide range of beautiful colors and textures, styles and patterns currently available will surely inspire you to pick up your needles, and with the help of this book you will be able to follow any pattern. You can then create original garments for yourself and your family by choosing your own color combinations and adding your own individual touches. As you pursue your new craft and the basic skills become familiar, you will find that knitting can be relaxing and satisfying, as well as productive. Enjoy the colors and textures, let the rhythm of the needles take over your fingers, and watch your work grow in your hands. a =GETTING STARTED In this section you will find all the information you need to start knitting including how to choose suitable yarns and needles, a description of any other equipment you may need, and clear step-by-step instructions on how to work the basic stitches. The four fundamental elements of knitting are described and illustrated: how to begin by casting on stitches, how to knit, how to purl, and how to bind off when you have finished your knitted piece. These techniques will form the basis of all the knitting you will ever make in the future. Once you have learned and practiced these basic movements, you will be ready to tackle your very first project. So pick up ! your needles and start knittiKnitting req es only two basic elements: a ball of yarn and a pair of needles, but it is important to choose the right yarn for a project, and the right needles to suit the yarn. Other equipment, such as pins and scissors, are common, household items, but as you pursue your new hobby you may find it helpful to buy other accessories (page 15). YARN Knitting yarns are usually made by spinning fibers together. These fibers may be natural or synthetic, and the type of fiber will affect the performance of the yarn: its warmth, strength, softness, and stretchabi NATURAL FIBERS Animal products Wool (from sheep], mohair ‘and cashmere (from goats), angora (from angora rabbits), alpaca, vicuna, and other animal hairs are shorn or combed from the ‘animal before being spun into yarn. Animal fibers in general are light, soft, and recover ‘their shape well after stretching. They are also good insulators, making them warm to wear. They may be spun together with other fibers to improve their strength and reduce the cost. Silk yarn js also @ natural product, spun from the unwound cocoons of the silkworm. It is a good insulator and may be spun very finely but has littie resilience and therefore tends to stretch in wear. Vegetable products Cotton, linen, and ramie are derived from plants. They are cool, smooth, and wash well but tend to lack resilience and so are often blended with other fibers. Mercerized cotton is chemically treated to make it more lustrous and less liable to shrink. Rayon is also a vegetable- based product but the fiber is man-made, being derived from cellulose, a waste product of the woad and cotton industries. It is lustrous and sot but lacks elasticity and is often combined with other fibers for its decorative properties z= ‘STARTED Svurienic riBeRs Acrylic, polyester, polyamide (nylon), and other synthetic fibers are derived from coal and petroleum products and spun in various ‘ways to resemble natural fiber yarns. Such yarns are generally inexpensive, stable, and often machine washable. However, care should be taken when pressing or blocking these yarns; garments made from them will lose their shape if too much heat is applied. Many blended yarns are designed to combine the desirable properties of synthetic and natural fibers ‘Yann 1YPEs, Fibers are normally twisted together by spinning them. Different combinations and methods produce different types of yarn: thick and thin strands may be spun together, or two threads spun at different tensions to produce a variety of textured effects. Different fibers may also be combined: matte cotton with lustrous rayon, or slubby (alternately thick and thin) woo! with smooth acrylic There id a huge number of possible combinations. Strands of different colors may also be introduced, or yarns may be space- dyed (random-dyed) with several different shades in the same ball. Other yarns are constructed in different ways. Chenille-type yarns are made by trapping short pile threadsextra-bulky (super chunky) wool/acrylic blend. bulky (chunky) acrylic Aran wool worsted wool sport (4-ply) wool Aran cotton/acrylic blend double knitting cotton sport (4-ply) mercerized cotton slubby cotton bouclé wool worsted acrylic/nylon viscose rayon tape cotton chenille mohair long-pile chenille linen/viscose rayon metallic fiber/viscose rayon tape metallic fiber chainette ina tightly twisted central core; tape yarns, Yann weicits ribbon yarns, and chainette yarns often Yarns are available in many different consist of continuous threads knitted into “weights” (thicknesses), from extra-bulky to fine tubes, flattened or rounded in profile. very fine. The names given above to these various weights are only a guideline as the terms used by different manufacturers, and in different countries, do not always correspond,BALLS AND HANKS Yarn is sold by weight, usually in balls of 1% oz (50 g) or 3% oz (100 g). Yarn supplied in hanks must be wound into balls before knitting, Winoins a Hank STEP 1 unwstthe hank and remove the tying threads used to secure it. Stretch it firmly several times between your hands to remove any kinks STEP 2eeendtne: person to hold the skein in the same way 2s above or place it over a chair back to prevent tangling, a STARTEDTe Keep a ball-band from each project as a future reference for washing and pressing instructions Te Keep unused balls of yarn away from dust and damp by storing them in a plastic bag, (dds and ends from previous projects may be sorted by weight, fiber content, and color in transparent plastic bags or boxes. An organized collection of odd balls and remnants can help you find just the touch of contrast color you need for a future project Yarw sels STEP. 3 rane outside end of the yarn and begin to wind it around four fingers. Change the direction of the winding from time to time to keep the ball even. Always wind over four fingers so that when the fingers are released, the yam is loosely wound and not stretched. Most yarn is sold with an accompanying label or ball-band, giving the following information: weight of ball or hank, fiber content, washing and pressing instructions, recommended needle size (it is 8 good rule never to change the recommended needle size by more than two sizes), and recommended gauge (page 50). An approximate length is often quoted in yards or meters The shade‘of the yarn will be named and/or numbered and accompanied by a dye lot number. Yarn is dyed in batches, or dye lots, and the color may vary slightly from one batch to another. Such a variation will be very obvious when the yarn is knitted up, so always try to purchase all the yarn for a garment at ‘the same time and check that all the balls carry the same dye lot number. EQUIVALENT WEIGHTS AND MEASURES us. 1oz 2oz hoz 3/02 in 4in 1 yard 39% in. OTHER 289 579 50g 1009 25m 10 cm 91.4cm 1m Materials no cuePairs of needles come in a range of sizes, from large (size 19 [15 mm)) to fine (size 0 [2 mm)), to suit different weights of yarn. They are also commonly available in different lengths, from 8 in. (20 cm) ‘to 16 in. (40 cm), to suit the number of stitches required. Double-pointed needles are sold in sets of four or five in the same range of sizes and various lengths. These are used for knitting in the round (page 74). Circular needles are also used for knitting in the round, particularly with large numbers of stitches (page 74). They consist of rigid tips joined by a flexible cord. Single and double-pointed and circular needles may be plastic, aluminum, wood, bamboo, or steel. Larger sizes are normally. plastic or wood for lightness, and very small sizes aluminum or steel for strength. NEEDLE cane Needles should be kept clean and dry and stored flat with the points protected. Plastic and alurninum needles may be washed in warm water if they become greasy. Damaged needles will snag the yarn as you knit—replace them: ee TTING STARTED. Te ‘Thrift shops are a great source for knitting needles, but beware! Before the introduction of sizing in milimeters (mm UK and Canadian sizes were numbered from 14 (small) 0 000 (large), unlike US. sizes which are numbered from 0 (smal) to 19 (large). Avoid any potential pitfalls by investing ina needle gauge (page 15) to check the needle sizes. EQUIVALENT NEEDLE SIZES u. OTHER 19 15mm W7 12 of 13 mm 15 10 mm 3 9mm " 8mm 74 mm 7mm 10% 6xmm 10 6mm 9 5mm. 8 5mm 7 4% mm 6 4mm 5 3% mm, 4 3% mm, 3 3mm 3mm 2 2mm 2% mm 1 2% mm, ° 2mmOTHER EQUIPMENT Plostic bobbins Used to There are a few items you may need old small amos of to complete your knitting projects. ps eee eee dle for ita kiting (oages 11416. Necale gauge 1 deck the sie P of any kriting need ys Cable resis y NY sede Ay \ working cables q |) aces36-27 a coca neces We fs eee ce ccumursrn—Sensi ‘one dose to ae ‘the knob of a single-point eo cele (poe 57-58) cea ‘Tape measure Buy @ er a id seo teresieto Sante eo att time, a5 old tape re , eater ak pee sei log mmr rg of ee ee ac of mel oe kiting or onto a needle, to sed for terporariy TOSS Os aaa naleng stitches ee page 56). mark a particular stitch or row. Yarn needles These should have large eyes and blunt tps to prevent spliting stands of yarn. They are Fry 2 plting strands of yarn. They ble i siterent ies tout sesso Used eae varying wage of on taney reels may be Wed for ne as. wiser ge headed pins fo seer faim powers ti arene pis ol \ y i) \ / knitted pices as you sew ‘when storing or ransparting a hem together Lage heads ‘Mohair brush (tease! brush) work in progres, orto Nem toveter tage hea help you tose the is inthe Used to rae the ple on mai store needs, aoe eet een ‘garment after completion. oO ittin; ordinary dressmakers pins ae easily lost between the stitches, aes |CHOOSING YARN AND NEEDLES Choose suitable yarn and needles to practice the basic skills described in this section. ‘When knitting for the fist time, itis advisable to use @ medium- to heavy-weight yarn, such as worsted or Aran (fisherman), or a bulky- ‘weight yarn, with a plain, smooth finish so that you can see the stitches easily. More elaborate yarns ‘can be confusing at this early stage. You will also need a pair of suitably sized needles. Many yarns quote recommended needle sizes on the ball-bands; choose the largest recommended size. Here is a general guide to recommended needle sizes, depending on the yarn used: ‘Worsteo varn size 6 or 7 (8 or 4% mm) ARAN (FISHERMAN) YARN size 8 or 9 (5 or 5% mm) BULKY YARN size 10 or 10% (6 or 6/4 mm) Shorterlenath needles are easier to handle than longer ones; 10 in. (25 cm) or 12 in. (30 cm) are suitable lengths. Sit comfortably in good light, in a chair without restricting armrests. Have the ball of yarn to your right, If possible, pull ‘the end of the yarn out from the center of the ball, so that. ‘the ball does not roll around,MAKING A SLIP KNOT The very first step for almost everything one does in knitting is to make a slip knot on one needle. STE a fettesorcienns " of yarn from the ball and hold the end in your left hand. Wind * the yarn from the ball clockwise round the first and second fingers é of this hand. STEP. 2 wind ne yarn round again, behind the first loop, so that the second loop is nearer the base of your fingers. STEP 3 sou ton ends of the yarn under the third and fourth fingers of your left hand.STEP 4 teee a tniting needle in your right hand and slip the tip under the first front) loop of yarn. STEP 5 catch ne second (back) loop with the needle and pull it through the first loop, toward your fingertios. STEP. 6 sso te tops of yarn off your fingers. Pull gently on the yarn and the yarn end to tighten the knot on the needle.HOLDING YARN AND NEEDLES There are several ways of holding the needles and yarn. For beginners the method shown below may seem complicated, but with practice it will result in a consistently even gauge and can be worked at speed. STEP. 1 ou the needle with the slip knot in your left hand, in the way you would hold a knife. To hold the yarn in your right, hand, pass the littl finger of your right hand over the yarn ‘rom the ball, then pass the forefinger of the same hand under the yarn from the ball, 2s shown. The yarn between the needle and your right hand should be slightly tensioned but not too tight. STEP 2 mesignt forefinger is used to carry the yarn around the right needle tip. Hold both needles quite close to the tips. Rest the ‘other end of the right needle against your body.CASTING ON Casting on creates a series of stitches on one needle that forms the edge of your knitting. There are several ways to cast on, each suitable for a different purpose. Some methods give a firm edge with little stretch; others form a more elastic edge suitable for beginning a garment piece with ribbing; yet others result in a loose edge suitable for lace stitches. The following two-needle (cable) cast-on forms a firm but elastic edge suitable for most purposes. STEP. 1 state asp knot (pages 17-18), leaving a short end of yarn (at least 4 in. [10 em] long) for finishing off. Hold the needle with the knot in yourleft hand, the short yarn- end held firmly under your fingers STEP 2 tee te other needle in your right hand and insert the tip from left to right into the slip loop, beneath the left needle,STEP 3 woting the yarn from the ball in your right hand, pass it counterclockwise around (that is, behind) the tip of the right needle, then between the two needles from left to right. STEP. 4 ic te st needle to draw the new loop of yarn through the previous loop, scooping from the back. SUE Posie aren to the front of the work,STEP. 6 insert te tip of the left needle into the new loop. > To MAKE A TIGHTER EDGE Should a firmer edge be «alld for—when beginning a garment with garter stitch (pages 24-25), for example— work the two-needle cast-on as shown, then work the first rows through the back loops Of the stitches instead of the front, that i, inserting the right needle into each stitch ‘rom right to left (instead of left to right). This tightens the stitches by twisting them, STEP 7 passthe new loop onto the left needle. j To MAKE A LOOSER EDGE Sometimes a looser or less bulky edge is required, when beginning a piece of lace \ knitting, for example, or where x ‘the edge will be sewn into seam. To make a loose cast-on, ‘work as shown, but for each new stitch insert the point of the right needle into the loop y Of the stitch just formed instead of behind it, STEP. 8 rionen it gently into place (2 stitches made).STEP 9 inser ne to of the right needle under the left needle, behind the loop of the stitch just made STEP. 10 aster, wind the yarn round the right needle, pull the new loop through and pass it to the left needle (three stitches made) ua SEP li linzees ee ear ra ar [sep 3ana yu He a have the number of the yarn will tend to move around and balance stitches you need for them up. When the knitting is finished, you can a carnplensiee gently strech and release the edge to complete the process. Don't over-tighten your cast-on, stitches onto the left needle. When you came to work the first row of knitting, the tip of the right needle should slip comfortably into the loop of each stitch, Experience wil tell you how tight the stitches should be.How TO KNIT The knit stitch is one of two fundamental stitches in knitting. To knit a stitch, you use the right needle to pull a loop of yarn toward you through the stitch on the left needle. To practice the knit stitch, begin first by casting on about 20 stitches (pages 20-23). STEP 1 soa ne neele withthe cast-on stitches in your left hand, with the first stitch about 1 in. (2.5 cm) from the tip. Take up the ball yarn in your right hand (page 19) and hold it together with the empty needle, held as you would a knife. Insert the tip of the right needle from left to right through the first stitch on the left needle, under the left needle and in front of the yarn held in your right hand STEP. 2. wir yur right forefinger carry the yarn counterclockwise over ‘he tip of the right needle and then between the two needles from left to right. Use the tip of the right needle to pull the loop of yarn forward through the first stitch on the left needle.If your stitches look uneven, try the following 1. Tryto form the stitches close to the needle tins The stitch you are knitting into on the left needle should be no more than YA in, (1-2.5 em) from the tip, depending on the needle size and yarn weight. The new stitch you make on the right needle should be at a similar distance from the tip of the right needle 2. Take a close look at yur last rove of knit. stitches (Se ilustration below) Follow the path ‘of the yarn along the needle toward the point: each stitch loops from front right over the needle to back left, down through the loop of the stitch below and up through the loop of the next stitch along. Each stitch pushes the loop of the stitch below away from you as you knit. ~ STEP. 3 sip te original stitch off the left needle. The newly made knit stitch is on the right needle, One knit stitch has been worked. STEP 4 rotnta rw, repeat steps 1-3. After every few stitches, push the stitches on the right needle away from the tip to prevent them bunching together and push the stitches on the left needle toward the tip to prevent stretching them. When all the stitches from the left needle have been worked onto the right needle, one row of knit stitches is complete. STEP 5 turn the werk around, holding the needle with the stitches in your left hand. Knit another row. Repeat this step several times. The resulting stitch pattern is called garter stitch, formed by knitting all the stitches on every row. Both sides of the worked piece have the same appearanceHOw TO PURL The purl stitch is the second fundamental knitting stitch. To purl a stitch, you use the right needle to pull a loop of yarn away from you through the stitch on the left needle, The result is the same as a knit stitch with the wrong side facing you; a knit stitch made backward. To practice the purl stitch, begin first by casting on about 20 stitches (pages 20-23). fm STEP. 1 jot the reece with the stitches on in your left hand, and the empty needle in your right hand together with ‘the yarn. Hold the yarn in front of the right needle and insert the tip of the right needle into the first stitch on the left needle, from right to left, in front of the left needle STEER eivonont forefinger to wrap the yarn counterclockwise around the right needle tip as shown.Te ‘Take a close look at your last row of purl stitches (see illustration, bottom). Follow the path of the yarn along the needle toward the point: each stitch loops from front Tight over the needle to back left, down through the loop of the stitch below and up through the loop of the next stitch along. Each new stitch ppushes the loop of the stitch below foward you as you purl SUERAS anaes of the right needle, pull the loop of yarn back through the first stitch, STEP A stone original stitch off the left needle. The newly made purl stitch is on the right Needle. One purl stitch has been worked. Step 5 To purl a row, repeat steps 1-4 until al the stitches from the left needle have been worked onto the right needle. Notice how the pur row forms a row of purl bumps on the side of the work facing you. if you purl several rows, the appearance of the work will be the same 4 * as for garter stitch (where all the rows are made up. z of knit stitches).STOCKINETTE STITCH The stockinette stitch is the best-known combination of knit and purl. It is formed, very simply, by alternating one row of knit stitches with one row of purl stitches. It is the most widely used stitch in knitting as it forms a smooth, flexible fabric suitable for all kinds of garments. It requires less yarn than garter stitch and the length of an item knitted in stockinette increases more quickly because the rows are less tightly packed. When you work a knit row, the purl bumps of, the stitches are formed at the back, that is, on the side facing away from you. When you work a purl row, the purl bumps are formed on the side facing you. Te i your rows look uneven, with every thor row of stitches consistently larger, this usully means you are puting more loosely than you are knitting (although it may be the other way round!) Tr to keep the stitches you are working close to the needle tips, as described on page 25. Some knitters find it helpful to use a needle ‘one size smaller for purl rows (f the pur ows are consistent loose) However is better to ry to improve your technique, without altering the needle size if you con When you work alternate rows The other side (the side facing of knit and purl, one side of the you as you work a purl row) \work (the side facing you as you shows all the purl bumps of every work a knit row) is quite smooth. rows. This is the purl side, the This is the knit side, the right ‘wrong side of stockinette. side of stockinette, REVERSE STOCKINETTE STITCH The reverse stockinette stitch is simply stockinette stitch worked with the purl side as the right side of the work. It is often worked by beginning with a purl row.BINDING OFF Binding off is the most commonly used method of securing stitches on a finished piece of knitting. Binding off links stitches that are no longer required, to prevent them from unraveling. A bound-off edge may be worked across all the stitches at the end of a piece of knitting, or certain groups of stitches may be bound off in the course of the knitting in order to shape the work, for example at an armhole. A bound-off edge should not be too loose or too tight. It should stretch by about the same amount as the rest of the knitted piece. Sometimes a more elastic edge is required, for example on a neckband. To work a loose bind-off, change to a needle one or two sizes larger than the previous rows. STEP. | faracqsene stitches on the left needle in the usual way onto the right needle, Insert the tip of the left needle, from left to right, through the front Of the first stitch on the right needie (the stitch farthest right) STEP 2 tie tne est stitch over the second stitch and off the right needle.STER: Sloresten remains on the right needle. One stitch hhas been bound off. STEP. 4 knit ne next stitch. There are now two stitches on the right needle. Repeat steps 2-4 as many times a5 required. When binding off all stitches, you should end with cone stitch on the right needle. Cut the yarn, leaving a tail of at least 6 in. (15 cm). STEP 5 wap the tail around the right needle. Lift the last stitch on the right needle over the loop and pull the tail through the last stitch to make a neat finish, The tall may be run in later along a seam, or a longer tail may be left and used for sewing a seam. 4. When binding off a certain number of stitches, to shape a neck or armhole for example, always count the stitches as you lift them off, not as you knit them, The stitch remaining on the right needle does not count as a bound-off stitch— it becomes the first stitch of the next row. 2. When binding off a piece worked in nib or another textured stitch, keep the ‘appearance consistent by ‘working each stitch as knit cr purl according ta the stitch pattern. 3. When binding off purl stitches, keep the yarn at the front of the work. To lift off the right-hand stitch, insert the left needle into the back of this stitch, from left to right.Te One row usually requires & lenath of yarn approximately four times the width of the work (except for complicated stitch patterns). When you think you have enough yarn left for ‘wo rows, te a slip knot at the center of the remaining length of yarn. Work one row, If you reach the knot, Untie it and complete the row, then join in a new ball. IF you don’t reach the knot, untie it and repeat the process. JOINING IN A NEW BALL Use this technique to joi a new ball of yarn (when the previous ball is used up) or to join in another color when knitting in stripes. Always avoid joining in a new ball halfway through a row. STEP’ areas yarn around the end of the old yarn, leaving a tail of at least 6 in. (15 cm). STEP) Znewene Up close to the edge of the work and begin the next row with the new ball. When the piece is complete, undo the knot and run in the yarn Z ends (page 45)PROJECTS AND TECHNIQUES Now that you have learned the basic techniques of knitting, you can move on to the more advanced techniques described in this section. Subjects include assembling garments, working to correct gauge, working from knitting patterns, shaping your knitting, knitting in the round, adding details such as collars and buttonholes, different types of stitch patterns, Fair Isle (two-color) knitting, intarsia (picture) knitting, and adding finishing touches such as beads and pompoms. Throughout this section you will also find beautiful and inspirational projects. These are arranged in order of the knowledge required to complete them, beginning with the simplest project (Striped Garter Scarf, pages 38-39) and ending with the most elaborate (Child's Sweater, pages 122-125). By working through this book page by page, you will find that each project puts only those skills and tech jues you have learned into practice. Here is your chance to create something special for yourself or your family and friends—and to learn the skills for a lifetime’s knitting.ROWS OF KNIT AND PURL STITCHES ‘One or more rows of reverse stockinette stitch on a background of stockinette stitch will produce a pronounced ridge across the width of the knitting. Simple combinations of knit and purl rows can therefore be used to make a variety of ridged patterns. Kwirrin assreviarions knit popurl ‘Asterisks or parentheses can be used to indicate the repetition of a sequence of stitches, e.g *K2, pI. rep from * to end means knit two stitches, then purl one stitch then repeat this sequence to the end of the raw. For more information about knitting abbreviations and instructions, see Working from Patterns (pages 52-55). Fora lst of common knitting abbreviations, see page 127. RIDGE STITCH SUITABLE FOR AY NUMBER OF STITCHES. Work 4 rows in stockinette stitch as follows: Row 1K. Row 2 P Row 3 K Row 4p Then work 4 rows in reverse stackinette stitch as follows: Row 5 P Row 6 Row 7. Row 8K Repeat these 8 rows. [RANDOM GARTER ROWS SUITABLE FOR ANY NUMBER (OF STITCHES Work in stockinette stitch, but at random intervals replace a right-side (knit) row with a furl row. Each reverse row forms a small ridge across the work. (Reverse rows may also be worked at reqular intervals, if desired.) | a AND TECHNIQUES:KNIT AND PURL STITCHES IN THE SAME ROW Vertical ribs and other textures are made by working knit and purl stitches in the same row. PATTERN REPEATS AND STITCH MULTIPLES ‘Always work on the correct number of stitches when working any stitch pattern or the pattern sequence will be lost. In the examples on pages 36-37, each pattern gives a requirement for the number of stitches, for example “requires a multiple of 3 sts” means this pattern must be worked on a number of stitches that divides exactly by 3 (such as 24, 33, or 99). The pattern repeat is 3 sts “requites a multiple of 4 sts, plus 1" means this pattern must be worked on a number of stitches that is a multiple of 4 (such as 24, 36, or 100) plus one extra stitch (making 25, 37, or 101). Such a pattern repeats over 4 sts and one extra stitch is required to make it symmetrical. YaRN position When working these stitch patterns, it is necessary to pass the yarn correctly between the needles into the position required for a purl stitch following a knit stitch, and vice versa After a knit stitch and before a purl stitch, bring the yarn to the front of the work between the needles, ready to purl the next stitch. Ater a purl stitch and before a knit stitch, take the yarn to the back of the work between the needles, ready to knit the next stitch. COMBINING KNIT AND ae >RIB PATTERNS In these patterns, stitches are arranged in alternate vertical lines—one line with the smooth (knit) side of the stitches to the front, and the next line with the purl bump (purl) side of the stitches to the front. The effect is an elastic fabric that stretches easily widthwise and does not curl, making it suitable for lower edges, cuffs, neckbands, and other borders. Such details are usually worked on needles two sizes smaller than those used for the main sections. Even when used for the main parts of garments, rib patterns often require smaller needles to allow them to look neat. K1, P1 ms REQUIRES AN EVEN HUMBER OF STITCHES K2, P2 ms REQUines A MULTPLE OF 4 STITCHES Row 1 *K1, p1, repeat from * to end. Row 1 *K2, p2, repeat from * to end. Repeat this row. Repeat this row. 4 \ ied 4 4 1, P2 nis rEQUiRES & muLtPLe OF 3 sTTCHES BROKEN RIB REQUIRES A MULIPLE OF 4 STITCHES, PLUS 1 Note that this rib has a different appearance This stitch is not quite so elastic as a true rib, on each side because some of the vertical lines are broken Row 11, *k1, p2, repeat from * to last 2 by being worked as knit stitches on every sts, K1, pt row. It will ie flat without curling Row 2 K1, *p1, k2, repeat from * to last 2 Row 1 K2, *p1, k3, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p1, kt sts, p1, k2. Repeat these 2 rows. Row 2 *Pi, k3, repeat from * to last st, p! Repeat these 2 rows. Er AND TECHNIQUESSEED STITCHES In these stitch patterns, reverse stitches (purl stitches on right-side rows or knit stitches on wrong-side rows) are arranged alternately along each row and also vertically, making firm flat fabrics suitable for borders and edgings, but with little elasticity. SEED STITCH REQUIRES Ani ODD NUMBER OF STITCHES Moss strrca aequikes an obo NuMBER OF STITCHES Row 1 *K1, p1, repeat from * to last st, k1 Row 1 *K1, 01, repeat from * to last st, k1. Repeat this row. Note how each stitch is Row 2 P1, k1, repeat from * to last st, pt reversed on the second row, because of the ROW 3 *P1, k1, repeat from * to last st, pt odd number of stitches Row 4 *K1, p1, repeat from * to last st, k1 Repeat these 4 rows REVERSED STITCH PATTERNS These patterns utilize the textural effect of stitches worked in reverse on a stockinette stitch background. (CATERPILLAR STITCH REQUIRES A MULTPLE OF 8 TS, PS 2 LITTLE SQUARES REQUIRES A MULTIPLE OF 6 5s, PLUS 3 Row 1 *K2, pé, repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2. ROW 1. *K3, p3, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3. Row 2 8 Row 2. *P3, k3, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p3 Row 3K Row 3. Repeat row 1 Row 4 P. Row 4 Repeat row 2 Row 5 P4, *k2, p6, repeat from * to last 6 sts, ROW 5 *P3, k3, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p3 2, pa Row 6 *K3, p3, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3. Rows 6-8 Repeat rows 2-4 Row 7 Repeat row 5 Repeat these 8 rows. Row 8 Repeat row 6. Repeat these 8 rows. COMBINING KNIT AND “aeProJect 1 STRIPED GARTER SCARF Make this scarf in your own choice of colors: worked - == on large needles in the simplest of stitches, it’s an ideal project for a beginner. Practice achieving an even gauge, but don’t worry too much; as you wear it and wash it, uneven stitches will tend to disappear! Finshe size 9x61 in. (23 x 155 cm) MaTeRiats King Coue Macnun Chunky (APPROX. 120 v05/110 m eR 100 c sant) colon A avocado (shade 173) 1 100-9 ball {COLOR B blossom (shade 17) 1 ‘COLOR C butter (Ghade 126) 1 NEEDLES size 10/4 (6% mm) Gauce Required gauge over garter stitch is 12 sts and 20 rows to 4 in, (10 em).Using size 10% (6% mm) needles and col.A cast on 14 sts and work 24 rows garter stitch (all rows knit). Measure gauge (pages 50-51), If your gauge is tight, with more sts or rows to 4 in (10 cm), try another test-piece with larger needles. if your gauge is loose, with fewer sts or rows to 4 in, (10 cm), try again with smaller needles. Note that for this scarf, gauge is not crucial provided 2 change in size is acceptable, although incorrect ‘gauge may affect the amount of yarn required. ‘Appreviarions k—knit; rep—repeat; st(s)—stitch(es); col. clo in.—inches; em—centimeters. PROJECTS AND TECHNIQUESSCARF Ties, Using size 10% (6% mm) needles and col.A cast 1. Remember, when you have knitted an even number of on 27 sts. ‘ows, the cast-on tail of yarn will be on the left of the * Using col.A, k 20 rows. 20 rows garter stitch work as you begin the next row. made 2. When changing colors, cut the old color leaving a 6 in. Note how these rows form 10 ridges an the front, (15 cm) tail and tie the new color round it, leaving of the work and 10 ridges on the back another 6 in, (15 cm) tail (age 31) Change to col. K 6 rows. Change to col.C. K 20 rows. Change to col.A. K 6 rows. Change to col.B, K 20 rows, Change to col.C. K 6 rows. * 78 rows garter st Rep from * to * twice more. Rep first 72 rows once more, thus ending 20 rows colB Bind off with colB TO FINISH Run in all the yarn ends down the side edges of the scarf This stitch should not be pressed. If required, block to size using water-spray method (page 41). STRIPED GARTER SCARF 3.QBLOCKING The secret of a neatly finished garment is to “block” the pieces before joining them together. This process evens out the gauge in the finished work by relaxing the stitches and fixing their size and shape. It also helps edges to lie flat without curling. Always refer to the ball-bands of the yarns you have used; some novelty yarns, including lurex, should never be blocked or pressed. Yarns that require minimum pressing are best blocked using the wet-spray method; these include long-haired yarns, synthetics, and synthetic blends. Natural fiber yarns may usually be blocked with warm steam, either using a warm iron and a damp pressing cloth or a steam iron and a dry cloth. If your garment includes a combination of yarns, use the option suited to the most delicate yarn. Textured stitches should be treated with caution as over-pressing can permanently change their appearance. Only block a ribbed fabric if you want to change its appearance and behavior permanently by stretching it. The knitting must be pinned out flat and square, and for this you will need a suitable surface. AAn ironing board is sufficient for small knitted pieces. Larger pieces obviously require a larger surface—about 36 in. (90 cm) square is a useful size. You will also need good supply of large- headed rustproof pins. Glass-headed pins or Fpins are ideal Ties 1. Use your gauge test pece to try out the process you consider best sulted to your work itn doubt, use the wet-spray method. 2. To make your own blocking board, cover a piece of fat board with a layer f quilter's batting and an overlayer of cotton fabric, both smoothly stretched over the edges and attached firmly atthe back with 2 glue gun or staples. The fabric should be made of cotton or similar ‘material, to withstand the heat of the iron, and a check pattern isa good aid to pinning out the pieces with the edges straight. a AND TECHNIQUES Lay the knitting right side down on the blocking board (see right} and pin it to shape, using the check pattern as a guide to keep unshaped edges straight. Check the measurements against the pattern instructions. Depending on the yarn, you may be able to ease or stretch the piece if necessary, but only by a small amount. Use lots of large- headed pins inserted at right angles to the edges, sliding them sideways into the layers to hold the edges flat without curling Ribbing that is intended to gather in the edge of a garment should not be pinned. Leave it free as shown here, The two main methods of blocking—the warm-steam and wet-spray methods—are described on the opposite page. Choose the method most appropriate to the yarns) you have used,Warw-sream meTHoD Never use an iron directly on a knitted surface. Use a warm iran and a damp pressing cloth or a steam iron and a dry cloth. The cloth should be made of cotton, and a damp cloth should be thoroughly wetted then well wrung out. Heat ‘the iron to the setting recommended on the ball-band and lay ‘the cloth over the knitting. Do not press down or move the iron over the cloth. Instead, hold the iron lightly on the surface for a few seconds, then lift and replace it until all the surface has been steamed. Remember, ribbing should never be pressed unless you want to reduce its elasticity. Leave the ‘work pinned to the board, with the board flat, until the knitting is completely dry SEAMS Werseray meTHoD Use a spray bottle to dampen the work ‘thoroughly, patting it gently with your hand 40 help the moisture penetrate the fibers. Leave the work pinned to the board, with the board flat, until the knitting is completely dry. How you sew together (or “seam”) the various parts of your knitted piece has a great effect on final appearance. Knitting produces a flexible, comfortable fabric that can be spoiled by tight or lumpy seams. However, firm seams in certain places, such as shoulder seams, can help a garment retain its shape. Always use a blunt-tipped needle, such as a tapestry needle, for sewing seams. Never use a needle with a sharp point. Your stitches should not split the knitted yarn but pass between the strands. Blunt-tipped needles ate available in several sizes to suit different thicknesses of yarn. When joining matching edges, such as side or shoulder seams, the number of rows or stitches on each side should be the same, so it is not always necessary to use pins. Seams joining stitches to rows should be pinned with large-headed pins at right angles to the edges, or if you prefer you can use small safety pins. To thread the needle, fold the end of the yarn over, hold it close to the loop, and push the loop through the eye of the needle. Never finish by breaking the yarn—always Use scissors to cut it _Marmess smirch The mattress stitch is used to join the side ‘edges of two pieces that have the same number of rows. The ends of the rows are matched together exactly for a neat finish, This seam is usually worked one whole Sel in from each vertical edge. If the knit includes a selvage stitch (page 59) at Ai side, these will provide a useful guide to placing the needle and will be concealed in the finished seam. Toes 4. Bulky yanns and novelty yanns with an uneven finish are often unsuitable for sewing seam. Use a finer, smoother yain in a matching color, preferably choosing a yarn with a similar fiber content so that it will behave in the same way as the main yarn when washed or pressed. If posible, use the cast-on tal for the figure eight and fist few seam stitches at the lower OOP Wassily ee itching yarn forthe opens ee remainder ofthe seam STEP 1 2. When starting anew length Begin at the Gwen edge of tema | ofthe, ays lave at of Sane On me bath about 6 in. (15 cm) on the pieces flat with the right paren seit wert age eides uppermost and:thread run in later along the seam the tail of yarn from the (page 45). At the end of a casting on into the needle. poe ie ‘of yarn, run t Bring the needle up from the Pee Sat ay ‘wrong side to the right side, ‘one stitch in from the corner of the piece without the tail, as shown. | Ik STEP. 2 ner trina the needle up from the wrong side to the right side of the corresponding position ‘on the piece with the tail, completing the figure eight. Pull gently to tighten. ar, AND TECHNIQUES:STEP 3 inser te needle between the first and second stitches of the first row of the piece without the tal, bring it out again between the first and second stitches, one row along, the edge, thus catching one strand of yarn on the needle STEP 4 onthe opposite side of the seam (the piece with the tail), insert the needle between the first and second stitches of the first row and bring it ‘out again between the first ‘and second stitches, two rows along the edge, thus «catching two strands of yatn on the needle Wee STEP 5 ontte Sihicadaitly opposite side of the seam, insert the needle where it last emerged; bring it out again two rows higher, thus catching two strands of yarn on the needle. Pull the thread to close the gap. The seam should not be shorter than the rest of the garment. Repeat step 5 to the top of the seam. Take the needle ‘through to the wrong side and run in the yarn end along the seam (page 45) onySEAMING A SIDE EDGE TO A BOUND-OFF EDGE To join the top edge of a sleeve to an armhole edge, the last row of stitches ‘on the sleeve must be sewn to the row ends of the armhole. It is often advisable to pin such a seam as the number of stitches will rarely correspond with the number of rows. BAcksTITCH SEAM This is a strong seam used where firmness is required, for example on a shoulder seam. ey STEP. ine sstcting is woreedn yellow to show the path of the yarn. Bring ‘the needle up at the center of the first stitch of the bound-off edge. Insert the needle between the first and second stitches of the Tow opposite and bring it out again two rows along this edge, thus catching two strands of yarn on the needle. SHEP 2p eetcer ie naate fe center of the same stitch of the bound-off edge and bring it up again at the center of the next stitch along. Pull gently to close the gap. Repeat steps 1 and 2. Depending on the number of stitches and rows you are joining, you will probably, at reqular intervals, need to pick up just one strand from the row-end side of the seam, instead of two strands. Spread these smaller stitches evenly to avoid a puckered seam. Tr ‘When working backstitch, keep the needle vertical to the surface of the work when Pushing it in and out to avoid splitting stitches. The stitches, of the seam should be placed through the centers of the knitted stitches. SER a [eaoendttc sorted bate hei tor clarity, Lay the pieces flat, the right sides facing togetherand the edges matching. If necessary, pin the seam with pins at right angles to the edges as shown. Bring the needle up between the first and second stitches of both pieces, leaving a 6 in. (15 cm) tail at the back, Take the needle around the side edge and up through the same place to secure the yarn. Take the needle around the side edge again and bring it up through both layers, one whole stitch along from the previous position ROJECTS AND TECHNIQUESTe Where @ new ball or color is joined in, there will be two ‘ails to run in. Unpick the knot S 2 that ons them an un one TEP. Z insert the needle atthe ‘end up the sear and the other end of the previous backstitch and bring down, to avoid a lump, it out again one whole knitted stitch along the edge from where it last emerged. Repeat step 2. When the seam is complete, run in both the yarn end (see below) and the starting tail. YARN ENDS All pieces of knitting begin and end with a tail of yarn, and more are created when you join in a new ball, change colors, and sew up seams. Always make these tails at least 6 in. (15 cm) long, so that they can be threaded into a needle easily and run in as below. Never knot the tails and cut them off short; knots can work loose and the adjacent stitches will unravel. With a litte planning, you can leave longer ends where they will be useful to join seams, so avoiding joining in extra lengths for sewing up. RUW IN ALONG A SEAM Most yarn ends may be run in along the wrong side of a seam. ‘Thread the tail into a blunt-tipped tapestry needle. Run the needile in and out of the edge stitches along the wrong side of the seam for at least 2 in. (5 cm). Pull the needle through and cut off excess yarn RUN IN ALONG A ROW ‘Where a design requires many color changes, all those yarn tails can make the seams very bulky. For a neat finish, run in the ends before blocking and sewing up. Unpick any knots joining the colors together. Thread each tail in turn into a blunt-tipped knitters’ tapestry needle and weave it in and out of the purl bumps of a row of the same color on the wrong side of the work, for at least 2 in, (5 cm). Pull the needle through but do not over-tighten. Check that the run-in end does not show on the right side. Cut off the excess yarn. smPICKING UP STITCHES The “pick up and knit” technique is used to begin a neckband or border directly from the edge of a piece of knitting, avoiding the need to cast on a separate piece and join it with a seam. The row of stitches formed in this way is more elastic and less bulky than a seam and is ideal for neckbands and armhole borders. You will already have completed the main piece(s), so you start with a fresh yarn end, leaving at least 4 in. (10 cm) to be run in later. Work the first row as below, count the stitches again, and then complete the rneckband or border according to your pattern, Whatever stitch you use for the border, always work the picked-up stitches as knit stitches, Usually with the right side of the work facing you. SPACING EVENLY ‘To ensure the picked-up stitches are evenly spaced, lay the work on a flat surface, ‘measure the edge, and divide it into a convenient number of sections af around: 2-3 in, (5-7.5 cm), to suit the length of the edge and the number of stitches required. Mark these sections with pins or markers (see right). Now divide the ‘umber of stitches required by the number of sections and pick up the resulting ‘number of stitches from each section of the edge. To PICK UP ALONG A SIDE EDGE OF KNITTING The number of stitches required will usually be less than the number of rows along the edge, so stitches will not be picked up from all rows. Mark. the spacing as above and try to spread the stitches evenly Te For very bulky yarns, it may be preferable to insert the needle tip in the center of the first stitch of the row, Le. under only ‘one thread, This makes a less buiky join, but with finer yarns tends to look uneven STIEBE linccrnrece right-side up and work from right to left along the edge. Take a needle of the size specified in your pattern and insert its tip from front to back between the first ‘two stitches of the first row, i.e. one whole stitch in from the edge. AG Provects ano TecHiquesSTEP. 2 tot! the yam in your right hand and the edge of the main piece between your left thumb and forefinger, close to the needle, Wind the yarn ‘around the tip of the needle STEP 3 brew t through in the same way as you would krit a stitch, ‘Annew stitch is formed on the needle. STEP 4 repeat steps 1-3 along the edge, picking up the correct, number of stitches between each pair of markers, Until you have the required number of stitches on the needle. FINISHING’ 47Project 2 BABY AFGHAN Three different stitch patterns, worked in strips, form a textured patchwork that is great fun to knit. Each pattern square is worked over the same number of stitches and rows but the gauges differ slightly, adding interest to the surface. FinusheD size 26 x 30 in. (66 x 76 cm) ‘Mareniais Parows Dietoma Goto ARAN (aPPROX. 180 vos/164 m™ Pen 100 6 Bat) oto cream (shade 8121) 4 100-9 balls NEEDLES sizes 7 (4% mm) and 4 (3% mm) Gave Required gauge over stockinette is 19 sts and 25 rows to 4 in. (10 cm). Using size 7 (4% mm) needles, cast on 21 sts and work 28 rows stockinette, Measure gauge (pages 50-51), If your gauge is tight, with more sts or rows to 4 in. (10 cm), try another test-piece with larger needles. if your gauge is loose, with fewer sts or rows to 4 in, (10 cm), try again with smaller needles. If your gauge is correct, the gauge over each pattern should also be correct Nores 4. Make this afghan any size you wish. To make the strips longer, simply repeat the pattern squares in order, To increase the width, make more strips. Allow 100 g of yarn for every 5 squares; for a large afghan you may require extra yarn for the border. 2. For this afghan, gauge is not crucial provided a change in size is acceptable, although incorrect ‘gauge may affect the amount of yarn required. + Each stp is worked with one selvage stitch (page '59) at each edge as described in these instructions. 48 PROJECTS AND TECHNIQUES. ‘Anereviarions, k—knit; p—purl; rep—repeat; st(s)—stitch(es); in. inches; em—centimeters FIRST STRIP Using size 7 (4¥4 mm) needles cast on 32 sts. PATTERN SQUARE A garter stripes Row 1K. Row 2 K1, p to last st, k1 Rep these 2 rows twice more. (6 rows stockinette made.) Row 7 Rep this row 3 more times. (4 rows garter st made.) 10 rows in all Rep these 10 rows twice more. 30 rows. Work rows 1-6 again. 36 rows. Break Line: K 2 rows, PATTERN SQUARE B checkers Row 11, “25, k5, rep from * to last st, kl Rep this row 5 more times. 6 rows, Row 7 K1, *k5, p5, rep from * to last st, k1 Rep this row 5 more times. 12 rows. Rep these 12 rows twice more. 36 rows. Work 2 rows Break Line as above PATTERN SQUARE C little posts Row 1k Row 2K1, p to last st, k1 Rep these 2 rows once more. 4 rows Row 5 3, *p2, k6, rep from * to last 5 sts, p2, k3. Row 6 K1, p2, *k2, p6, rep from * to last 5 sts, 2, p2, k1 Rep these 2 rows 3 more times. 12 rows. Row 13 K. Row 14K1, p to last st, kT Row 157, *p2, k6, rep from * to last st, kT Row 16 K1, p6, *k2, p6, rep from * to last st, kl. Rep rows 15 and 16, 3 more times. 22 rows. Row 23 K Row 24 K1, p to last st, KT Rows 25-32 Work as rows 5-12 Rows 33-36 Work a5 rows 1-4. 36 rows. Work 2 rows Break Line as above. Work 36 rows Pattern Square A, 2 rows Break Line, 36 rows Pattern Square B. Bind offSECOND STRIP selvage sts at seam, 30 sts from top edge of Cast on 32 sts as for First Strip. third strip, leave 2 selvage sts at seam, 30 sts Work 36 rows Pattern Square B, 2 rows Break Line, from top edge of second strip, leave 2 selvage 36 rows Pattern Square C, 2 rows Break Line, sts at seam, 31 sts from top edge of first strip. 36 rows Pattern Square A, 2 rows Break Line, 122 sts in all 36 rows Pattern Square B, 2 rows Break Line, K 5 rows, thus ending wrong-side row. 36 rows Pattern Square C. Bind off Bind off. LOWER BORDER THIRD STRIP ‘Work to match Top Border, picking up sts from Cast on 32 sts as for First Strip. cast-on edges of strips. ‘Work 36 rows Pattern Square C, 2 rows Break Line, 36 rows Pattern Square A, 2 rows Break Line, SIDE BORDERS (axe 2) 36 rows Pattern Square B, 2 rows Break Line, With right side of work facing, using size 4 (3) 36 rows Pattern Square C, 2 rows Break Line, mm) needles, pick up and k 4 sts from side 36 rows Pattern Square A. edge of border, then 3 sts from every 4 rows off. along side edge, ending with 4 sts from side edge of second border. FOURTH STRIP K5 rows, thus ending wrong-side row. Work as First Strip. Bind off ASSEMBLY Run in all the yarn ends on wrong side of seams These stitch patterns should not be heavily pressed. (page 45). If required, block again using the wet-spray Block strips using wet-spray method (page 41). method (page 41). Join strips side by side in order as diagram, using mattress stitch (pages 42-43). Make sure you have all the cast-on edges at one end, Press seams lightly with a cool iron. TOP BORDER With right side of work facing, using size 4 (3% mm) needles, pick up and k 122 sts from bound-off edges of joined strips, as follows 31 sts from top edge of fourth strip, leave 2 first second thi fourth stip strip stip sto B\C/A|B AC) |eay |e B A € B bP) wo) > € B A © ASSEMBLY DIAGRAMCorrect gauge is the key to knitting pieces to the correct size. The gauge of a knitted piece is a measure of the actual size of the knitted stitches, expressed as the number of stitches to a given width and the number of rows to a given length Most knitting pattern instructions include a recommended gauge and it is vital that you match this gauge exactly, otherwise, your work will be the wrong size. ‘A recommended gauge on a ball-band or in a pattern instruction is chosen to give a correct “handle” to the work—too tight and the work will be stiff and heavy, too loose and it will tend to drop out of shape. So even if you compensate for incorrect gauge by working more or less rows or stitches, you may still be disappointed with the result. FACTORS AFFECTING GAUGE Gauge is affected by the type of yarn used, the size of the needles, the indi knitter, and the stitch pattern, and is crucial to the success of your work. Yann use Two knitted pieces in different weights of yarn, with the same number of stitches and rows, and on the same size needles, will differ in size. Always try to ‘obtain the exact yarn quoted in the pattern instructions. Yarns with the same general description, e.g., “worsted,” may differ slightly in weight from one manufacturer, or one fiber content, to another. NegDLE siZE Two knitted pieces in exactly the same yarn, with the same number of stitches and rows, but done on different-size needles, will also differ in size. The larger the needles, the larger the individual stitches will be. Even the types of needles used can affect gauge. Different yarn fibers slip with varying degrees of ease over needle surfaces of plastic, wood, or steel. Always use the same pair of needles for the gauge test-piece as for the final knitted piece ‘THE INDIVIDUAL KNITTER How you hold the yarn and needles in your hands also affects the gauge. Some knitters find that they need consistently larger or smaller needles Tr: AND TECHNIQUES than stated in the pattern to obtain a correct gauge STITCH PATTERN Two knitted pieces made with exactly the same yarn, the same number of stitches and rows, and on the same-size needles will differ in size ifthe stitch pattern Used is different. Some stitch patterns shrink or stretch the knitting sideways and some shrink or stretch it lengthwise, The block stitch shown below has several more rows to 4 in. (10 cm) than an equivalent piece of stockinette stitch.MEASURING GAUGE Before beginning any new project, knit a test-piece in the following way 1. Read the pattern instructions to find the recommended gauge. This will usually be quoted as “x stitches and y rows to 4 in, (10 cm)" measured over a certain stitch pattern and using a certain size of needles, at 2. Using the yarn that you intend to use for your knitted piece, and the Ny ‘ needle size specified, cast on a few more stitches than the figure quoted, Oe a Ry fi Nye ‘enough to make the test-piece about 6 in. (15 cm) wide. If you are working a . o particular stitch pattern, choose @ number to suit the stitch repeat. Work in the required stitch pattern for about 6 in. (15 cm) and bind off. Block this test-piece (pages 40-41) in the way you intend to block the finished piece. 3. Lay the test-piece right side up on a flat surface and use a ruler or tape measure to insert two pins exactly 4 in. (10 cm) apart, at the center of the piece, along a straight row of stitches (see above). Make a note of the ‘number of stitches between the pins, including any half stitches. This is the number of stitches to 4 in. (10 cm), 4, In the same way, measure off 4 in. (10 cm) vertically, inserting two pins exactly 4 in, (10 cm) apart at the center of the piece, along a straight line of stitches. Make a note of the number of rows between the pins, including any half rows. This is the number of rows to 4 in. (10 cm) Depending on the yarn and stitch pattern, it may be easier to turn the test-piece over and measure the rows on the reverse side. If your gauge ‘matches the recommended gauge exactly, congratulations! If not, you must adjust your gauge as described below. ‘ApwUsTING GAUGE IF your test-piece has too many stitches or rows to 4.in. (10 cm), your work is too tight and you must Work another test-piece using larger needles. If your test-piece has too few stitches or rows to 4 in. (10 cm), your work is 100 loose and you should work another testspiece using smaller needles. Block or press the new. testipiece as before and measure the gauge as above. Repeat this process until your gauge is exactly right. Remember that a difference of one stitch or row ‘over 4 in. (10 cm) can translate into a difference of 3 04 in, (7.5 or 10 cm) over the width or length of a complete garment so itis most important that you get the gauge right. ‘SUBSTITUTING YARNS Sometimes itis impossible to find the exact yarn specified in pattern instructions, because manufacturers discontinue lines and colors for various reasons. Read the pattern instructions carefully and make a note of the recommended gauge and needle size, the yarn’s fiber content, and the yardage, if quoted. If necessary, try to find another yarn to match all these criteria as closely as possible, the most important factor being the gauge. If possible, buy just one ball and make one or more test-pieces, matching the gauge before purchasing the bulk of the yarn. If the substitute yarn quotes a shorter yardage on the ball-band than the recommended yam, extra yarn will be required. As 3 rule, cotton and cotton-blend yarns are particularly heavy and therefore have a shorter yardage. oaAt first glance, knitting instructions can appear daunting. However, far from being difficult to understand, most kni ing instructions present information in a logical order, use similar terms and abbreviations, and are intended to be simple to follow, much like a cooking recipe. Always read a pattern through before you begin knitting, to ensure that you understand all the terms and abbreviations used and how the garment will be constructed, Its also a good idea to keep a notebook in which to record your projects and sizing and body measurements for yourself and your family. Keep one of the ball bands from each yarn you use, ‘as a reference for washing and pressing instructions, and also for recommended gauges. You can also keep a strand of each yarn for future reference. When you check your gauge for a project, record the yarn, stitch, and needles you used to obtain the given gauge. Keep your gauge test-pieces too, either in the notebook or separately. For each project, make a note of anything in a pattern that you will need to repeat later for a matching piece, for example the number of rows on a sleeve. Take photographs of your finished projects and paste those in too. Your notebook will be an invaluable source of information in the future. SIZING Garment patterns usually include instructions for a range of sizes, with the measurements provided at the beginning, for example: SIZING to fit bust/chest 2 34 36 38 in. 81 86 92 97 om actual measurement 36 38 40 az in 92. 97. 102 107 om length 20 22 poaemeza in 50.5 56 585 59.5 cm. sleeve length 16 7 18 in, 40.5, 4348.5 46 cm. Decide which system of measurement you intend to use, imperial (inches) or ‘metric (centimeters). Although 4 in. are approximately equal to 10 cm, longer measurements multiply the inaccuracy: 40 in. measure close to 102 em. So ‘choose one system and stick to it throughout the project: er: AND TECHNIQUESTo fit bustfchest This is the body measurement, taken with a tape measure fitted snugly around the widest part of the bust or chest. Actual measurement This is the actual measurement of the finished garment, which often includes several inches of “ease." In the table opposite, 4 in. (10 cm) of ease have been added to each bust/chest measurement. The ease allowance may be anything from 1 in. (2.5 cm) to 6 in. (15 cm) or more, depending on the style of garment and the fit required. The actual measurement is the width of the back plus the width of the front. In the case of garments such as cardigans, itis measured with the fastenings closed. Length This measurement is usually taken from the top of the shoulder to the lower edge of the garment, Drop a tape measure from the top of the shoulder to find how long the garment will be on the body. Depending on the design, the length may sometimes be measured at the center back neck, Sleeve length This lenath is usually measured vertically through the center of the sleeve, not along the sloping, shaped edges. It is the length from the lower edge to the last row before shaping begins for the top of the sleeve, at the level of the underarm. In the case of oversize garments with deep armholes, the sleeve length may be considerably shorter than the body measurement from wrist to underarm. Many patterns include an adjustable sleeve length, Just before shaping begins for the top of the sleeve, there is a point where rows may be added or subtracted. Te Keep a note of your own body. ‘measurements, but also check the measurements of your favorite garment by laying it out on a flat surface and ‘measuring the width, length, and sleeve length. Remember the actual chest measurement is twice the width. Keep a note of these measurements to help you choose the correct size Other measurements These may also be included depending on the design of the garment, from a patten 5 \ a 4 oa aa oe | ew autem | & \ Te Before you start working from a pattern, highlight all the figures in a pattern that apply {0 your chosen size Decide which size you wish to make from the table of measurements provided with the instructions. Different sizes are given within the text of a pattern as 1st size (the smallest), followed by the larger sizes in brackets, and ending with the largest size thus: 1st size[2nd size, 3rd size, 4th size]. This format is repeated throughout a pattern for all the sets of figures that differ from one size to the next, for example the number of stitches to cast on, the number of rows to work, the number of increases, or the length to work to in inches (cm). Where only one figure is given, this applies to all sizes. WORKING FROM. aMATERIALS Pattern instru ns list the amounts of yarn required for each size, recommended needles sizes, and other requirements, such as stitch holders, buttons, and so on. ‘Always try to purchase the recommended yarn If this s impossible, see Substituting Yarns (page 51) If possible, purchase all the yarn required for the project at the same time. f you try to purchase more yarn at a later date you may find the dye lots differ (page 13) and your project will be spoiled GAUGE It is vital that you check your own gauge carefully (pages 50-51). The recommended gauge for any project will be quoted in the pattern. ABBREVIATIONS All the abbreviations used within a pattern are usually listed in alphabetical order together with their meaning. Abbreviations may vary slightly from one pattern source to the next, so read them carefully and make sure you understand them. Note that different pattern producers may use either capital or lower case letters for abbreviations. The most commonly used knitting abbreviations are listed on page 127. PARENTHESES AND ASTERISKS Parentheses are sometimes used to indicate the repetition of a sequence of stitches. For example, *(K2tog, k1) 3 times” means “k2tog, k1, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k1.” Asterisks may be used for the same purpose. For example, “*K2tog, k1, rep from * twice more” also means "K2tog, k1, k2tog, k1, k2tog, kT.” Asterisks are also used to avoid repeating lengthy sections of instructions. For example, halfway through the instructions for the back of a sweater, you may find one (*) or two (*™) asterisks with no apparent purpose. When yau work the front, you will find instructions such as “work as Back to *” or perhaps “complete as Back from ** to end." Asterisks and parentheses may also be used in combination. For example, "*K2, pl, (k1, p1) 3 times, rep from * to end.” This means “k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, pl, then begin again until you reach the end of the row." The part of the instruction in parentheses therefore incicates that these stitches alone are to be repeated three times before returning to the instructions immediately following the asterisk, a AND TECHNIQUESTes 4. Where instructions cal for several rows to be repeated a specific number of times, for ‘example between increase rows when shaping a sleeve, tick off each row as you complete it until each row on the patter is marked with the correct number of ticks. Then if you need to make a matching piece such as a second sleeve, turn each tick into a cross as you complete the row. 2, When a pattern requires you to change to another needle size (always at the end of @ row), lay aside the emoty needle and pick up one needle Of the new size. Work one row, thus transferring your knitting to the new needle, ‘Then lay aside the other old- size needle and pick up the second new-size needle to continue the work KNITTING THE PIECES The usual working order for a garment is: back, front (or left front, right front), sleeves, followed by any neckband or other borders, which may be described separately or under a general heading such as “finishing” or “assembly.” ‘Always work the pieces in the order given. This usually begins with the back, Which tends to involve the least shaping, making it easier for the knitter to become familiar with a stitch pattern before progressing to pieces with more complicated shapes. Some knitters like to make one sleeve next, just to check they have sufficient yarn for the garment—the back plus one sleeve make up approximately one half the yarn required for the garment, allowing, too, for extra yarn for bands, borders, pockets, and so on. If the pieces are not laid out in the order just outlined, there is probably a good reason for this. For example, a sweater with a patterned front and a plain back might begin with instructions for the front and then instruct you to work the back to a matching length, sometimes involving a different number of rows Begin at the beginning, Start with the correct needles and yarn and cast on the number of stitches required for your size, Recount the stitches to ensure they are correct, then begin to knit. Check row and stitch count. Whenever a raw or stich count is given, count the rows and stitches you have made to ensure they are correct. You may find a row counter (page 15) useful. Check off each section on the pattern as you complete it, or keep a record in your notebook. Pieces made to match in length, for example a frant and a back made to match at the underarm seam, should be worked with exactly the same number of rows in the corresponding sections unless the pattern states otherwise. Where a pattern requires you to work to a certain length, keep a note of the number of rows you worked on the first piece so that you can match the second piece exactly Measure your work in progress. Instructions often ask you to “continue until work measures x in. (y cm.” To measure the length of work on the needles, lay the piece on a flat surface without stretching it and measure the length at the center (see left). [tis impossible to measure the width of a piece of knitting accurately while itis on the needles. That's why correct gauge is so important. Ifyou are sure that your gauge is correct, you do not need to check the width, Complete each section in turn. Block the piece (pages 40-41) and leave it to dry. Check the measurements before beginning the next piece. Finish your garment. Assemble the garment according to the instructions. WORKING FROM | — aoHOLDING STITCHES To shape a neck edge or packet opening, stitches may be left on a holder to be worked into again at a later stage. A stitch holder (page 15) often takes the form of a large metal or plastic safety pin with a blunt point. STEP. V epee hater and slip the required stitches onto the pin, inserting the pin from right to left without twisting the stitches. STEP. 2 ctore te holder The stitches will not unravel. When you working on them, you may be able to open the holder and work directly from it, but you will usually find that the holder closure is not at the side where you want to begin. Slip the stitches from the holder onto a spare needle, then work them as directed. Ties 1. To hold a few stitches, you can use an ordinary large safety pin but take care nat to split the stitches with the sharp paint. 2. To hold a large numiber of stitches, or stitches araund a shaped edge that will not sit easly on a straight pin, use a length of yarn. Thread a blunt-tipped needle with a length of smooth contrasting yarn and slip the needle through the required stitches. Knot the yarn ends together to prevent unraveling, When you return to the stitches, slip them onto @ spare needle, beginning at the side opposite to where you want to begin working and remave the spare yarn. i AND TECHNIQUESCORRECTING MISTAKES Lay your work flat from time to time, right side up, and take a good look at it. The sooner you spot a mistake in a pattern or an incorrect stitch, the less time it takes to fix it. CrocHeT HOOK METHOD Use this method to correct a single wrong stitch in stockinette stitch, for example a knit stitch made on a purl row (showing a purl bump on the right side) or a stitch that splits the yarn STEP. 1 wth the sont sie of the work facing up, work along the next row to the stitch above the mistake. Drop this stitch from the left needle and unravel it down to the cortect stitch just below the mistake. Insert a crachet hook into the loop Of this stitch, inserting it from front to back. The crochet hook size should not be larger than the needles you are using, SHEP 2 ircsnmaeecer hook under the strand of thread immediately above the loop on the hook and catch it in the hook. Pull the strand through the loap on the hook WORKING FROM |STEP Siascerer until all the strands have been hooked up. Slip the last loop onto the left needle without twisting it. Complete the row. UNRAVELING METHOD Use this methad where a mistake has been made in shaping or in a complicated stitch pattern. STEP. 1 sip tne stitches off the needle and unravel the work down to fone row above the mistake. Hold the work in your left hand and a needle in your right hand that is a few sizes smaller than your knitting needles STEP Diese needle tip, from back to front and from right to left, into the stitch below the first empty loop, then pull gently on the yarn to unravel the loop. Pick up each stitch in turn along the row in this ‘way, unraveling the incorrect row. Using the correct needle size, work the next row. Then discard the (now empty) smaller needle and pick up the other correct needle rn AND TECHNIQUES:SELVAGE STITCHES Pattern instructions often include instructions for selvage stitches. A selvage is one or more stitches at the side edge of a piece of knitting worked in a different manner to the main stitch pattern. Selvages make the edges neater, firmer, and less liable to curl. On a free edge, such as a band or border, they may also be decorative. When working stitch patterns, selvage stitches are added to the number of stitches required for the repeating pattern. Pieces with selvage stitches are usually joined with a mattress stitch (pages 42-43), to conceal the selvages in the seam and achieve a professional result. SSimPLe GARTER STITCH SEWAGE This is the most common selvage used on stockinette stitch fabrics and ather stitch patterns where pieces are to be joined Using a mattress stitch (pages 42-43). It makes the edge stitches slightly firmer, avoiding an uneven appearance. To work this selvage, simply work the first and last stitch of every row as a knit stitch, Chain smitcH seivaGe This selvage is used to form a neat edge on garter stitch (all rows knit), where both edges will be lett free, as for a strap, or only one edge will be left free, as at the front edge of a cardigan. Chain stitch selvage on both edges Row 1 Bring the yarn forward in front of the right needle, insert the right needle into the first stitch from right to left (purlwise) and slip the first stitch onto the right needle (abbreviated sl 1 p-wise wyif). Take the yarn to the back between the needles and knit to the end of the row. Repeat this row. Chain stitch selvage on one edge Row 1 Repeat row 1 above. Row 2 Knit to end Repeat these 2 rows. The chain stitch selvage is formed at the beginning of Row 1 WoRKING FROM a |ProJect 3 TANK TOP Now that you have learned not only the basic techniques, but also how to check your gauge, sew a seam, and read a pattern, you can make this easy tank top. Using extra- chunky yarn and giant needles, it will grow very quickly. Choose your favorite color from the large range available. ‘Sizes to 81 8 9297 ‘aclual measurement 36.3840 42~—sin 9196 102 107_ cm lengthtoshoulder 19° 19 19% 19% in. 484850 50__cm Marertats Counerre YARNS Pom FIVE (APPROX. 54 YOs/50 w PER 100 6 Batt) ‘Colon Sahara 414 5 5] 100-9 hanks NEEDLES sizes 17 (12 mm) and 15 (10 mm) large knitters sewing-up needle Te This type of bulky yarn is not suitable for sewing long seams because the loosely twisted parts will tend to break, 0 use an oddment of finer yarn in a toning color to sew the side seams. If possible, this yarn should be 100 percent ‘wool, like the knitting yarn, PROJECTS AND TECHNIQUES bustchest 32°34 «36=«38~—Cin, Gause Required gauge over stockinette is 8 sts and approximately 12 rows to 4 in. (10 cm). Using size 17 (12 mm) needies; cast omabout.12 stitches. Work in stockinetre’stichfor 16 rows."Castoft»Blodeaid press the sample using the warmn-steam method. (page 41), then measure the gauge (pages 50-51). if you haye more stitches or rows than recommended, your gauge is too tight and you should try another sample using larger needles. If you have fewer stitches or rows than recommended, your gauge is too loose and you should try another sample using sinaller needles ABBREVIATIONS k—knit; p—purl; st(s)—stitch(es); g.st.—garter stitch {all rows knit); in —inches; em— om @2e0Se2 1805 \.= @0H0980285).=@ Buttons made of natural materials, such as wood, horn, or mother-of-pearl, often suit natural fiber yarns very well, \Wwhereas metallic and jeweled buttons suit more exotic yarns. Glassy and transparent buttons are a useful option if a good color match is unobtainable. Sew on buttons using the same yarn as used for the button band if possible or use matching sewing thread BUTTONHOLES EyELET BUTTONHOLE This small buttonhole is simply a yarn over (yo—page 89) accompanied by a corresponding decrease (pages 65-66). It is shown here worked on a garter stitch band worked lengthwise. It is also suitable for bands worked sideways. On the buttonhole row, work to the position required for the buttonhole, yo, k2tog (page 67), work to the end of the row. Depending cn the stitch pattern in use, the yarn over may be worked in any of the ways shown on pages 89-90, and sometimes p2tog (pages 68-69) is more appropriate than k2tog‘Two-Row BUTTONHOLE This buttonhole is made by binding off two or more stitches, then casting on again to replace them. it may be made to any suitable width. Itis also suitable for bands worked sideways, STEP! 1 workatong the ron to the position required for the buttonhole. Working in the stitch pattern as set, bind off the number Of stitches required (three stitches shown here) and continue in the pattern to the end of the row. % STEP. 2 on te folowing rom, work in the pattern to the bound-off stitches. Turn the work and, using the two-needle method of casting on (pages 20-23), cast on the same number of stitches as you bound off on the previous row. But before slipping the last of these stitches onto the left needle, bring the yarn forward between the needle tips. This tightens the last cast-on stitch and prevents a loose loop from forming. STEP 3 wun the work again so that the cast- on stitches are on the right needle and complete the row. The finished buttonhale is shown here (see far right) on a band of seed stitch (page 37).SLIT POCKET There are several different ways of constructing pockets, but this slit pocket is one of the simplest and neatest to use on knitwear, being less bulky than other types. 1 DIEP I knit the pocket lining before fhe garment piece it is to be att to, Normally the pocket lining is worked in stockinette stitch in order to lay as flat as possible when finished. Do not bind off but slip the stitches onto a spare needle ed STEP 2. atmepesnse equred'ch he speual Speishecde ana siamat matching the pocket lining onto a Geant neat as SETS TeC MUP ora te (ag ae eee ea ae BREE AEN orate After completing the piece, a pocket tim may be added by working across the stitches left on a holder. Sew down the side edges of the trim along a straight line of stitches Crrp 2 STEP Son Side, sipstitch ead the lting along a straight line of stiches and the lower edge t straight row of stitches. BAP PRovects Ano TECHNIQUESSETTING IN ZIPPERS Tips 1. Choose the zipper color to match the ‘garment. Ifan exact match is unobtainable, choose a darker shade; it wll be less noticeable than a zipper in a lighter shade 2. Knitting should never be stretched to fit a Zipper or the result will be a buckled edge, In act, the knitting should be in, (0.5-1.25 cam) longer than the zipper. Buy the zipper before you complete the knitting, and if necessary adjust the length of the opening to sult. 3. Vertical edges of knitt with one or more selvage stitches to make a may be worked neat finish next to the zipper, a horizontal sit should be bound off and cast on firmly ‘An open-ended zipper may be used to fasten the front edges of a jacket or cardigan, or an ordinary zipper may be stitched into a vertical or horizontal opening worked in the knitting With the garment piece(s) right side up ona flat surface, pin the closed zipper underneath the knitting. The edge stitches should be just clear of the zipper teeth not overlapping them. Do not stretch the knitting. Tack the zipper in place with contrasting sewing thread Use matching yarn or sewing t backstitch the zipper in place, taking a small backstitch over each row of the edge of the knitting, ead to DeTalsiQ5TODDLER TO Great for active kids, with a zip neck, neat collar, and two pockets: sure to be a favorite! 5661 66 71cm i2gue 2arm 30 esz coat e ete (EsIeonee saeco an 345 405 45.5 51 o% 1% 13 14% in, 245 29 "ABBREVIATIONS k-knit; p—purl; rep—repeat; st(s)—stitc increase; k2tog—knit 2 together; SKP—slip one, knit one, pass slip stitch over; m1 tbl—make one through back loop; p2teg—purl 2 together; p2tog thl—purl 2 tagether through back loops; st 1—slip one; col.—color; in.—inches; em—centimeters.. ‘ALL Seasons CorTon (APPROX. 98 vOs/90 Mi PER 50 c saul) color jaunty (shade 183) 5[6 7 9] 50-g balls 2 NEEDLES sizes 8 (5 mm) and 7 (4% mm) : 3 stitch holders or spare needles and 2 large ig size ? (4% mm) needles cast on 55[59, 6 67] sts. Seed St row *K1, p1, rep {ror Rep this row 3 more time safety pins Zipper length 4 in, (10 em) to match yarn Gauce Required gauge over stockinette is 16% sts and 24 rows ta 4 in, (10 cm). Using size 8 (5 mm) needles, cast on 20 sts and work 28 rows stockinette, Measure gauge (pages 50-51), measures 7/{10, 1124 34.5) cm ending P ro number of stockinette Shape Armholes Bind off 5 sts at beginning next 2 rows (knitwise on k row, purlwise on p row). 46[50, 54, 4) in./19125.5, 30, ake a note of the s you have worked. ae 58] sts. Notes Continue in stockinette until Back measures 13% 4. Instructions in brackets [ refer to the [16, 18, 20} in./34.5140.5, 45.5, 51]cm in all 3 larger sizes. Where only one set of ending P row. Make a note of the number of figures is given this refers to all sizes. stockinette rows you have worked from 2, Top in photograph is 2nd size, beginning of armhole shaping, PROJECTS AND TECHNIQUESShape Shoulders Bind off 717, 8, 8] sts at beginning next 2 rows (kniwise on k row, purhwise on p row) and 718, 8/9)St5 at beginning following 2 rows Slip remaining 18120, 22, 24) sts onto a stitch holder Cut yarn leaving a 4 in. (10 cm) tail POCKET LININGS wake 2 Using size 8 (5 mm) needleS cast on 19[21, 23, 25] sts. Work in stockinette beginning k row for 20120, 24, 24] rows, ending p row. Cut yarn leaving a 20 in, (50 cm) tail and slip sts onto a stitch holder or spare needle (page 56) FRONT Work as given for Back to **. Work in stockinette beginning p row for 19119, 23, 23] rows, ending p row. Place Pockets Next row K 5 sts, ‘slip next 19121, 23, 25] sts onto a stitch holder, then with right side of one pocket lining facing k across 19[21, 23, 25] sts from holder * ; k next & sts of Front, then rep * to *:k 5 sts to end, Continue in stockinette beginning with a p row until length matches Back at beginning of armhole shaping, ending with a p row. Shape Armholes Bind off 5 sts at beginning next 2 rows (knitwise on k row, purlwise on p row). 46[50, 54, 58] sts Divide for Zipper Opening: First Side Ast row K 23125, 27, 29] sts, turn. Work on these sts only: 2nd row Ki, p to end. Rep these 2 rows, 11 more times. 24 rows of Opening, ending p row. Shape Neck Neck row 1 K 18[20, 21, 23] sts slip last 515, 6, 6] sts onto a stitch holder or large safety pin. Work ‘on remaining sts only: Neck row 2 2t0g, p to end Neck row 3 K to last 2 sts, k2tog Rep neck rows 2 and 3, 1[1, 1, 2] more times. 2nd and 3rd Sizes Only Work neck row 2 once more. K 1 row. All Sizes, 14(15, 16, 17] sts remain. Continue in stockinette, beginning with a p rove, until length matches Back at beginning of shoulder shaping, ending with ap row. Shape Shoulder Bind off 7[7, 8, 8] sts knitwise at beginning next row, P 1 row. Bind off remaining 718, 8, 9] sts. Cut yarn leaving a 10 in. (25cm) tail Zipper Opening: Second Side ‘With right side of Front facing, rejoin yarn at right of remaining 23[25, 27, 29) sts. Ast row K. 2nd row P to lest st, k1 Rep these 2 rows, 11 more times, and 1st row once again. 25 rows of Opening, ending k row. Shape Neck Neck row 1 P 18{20, 21, 23] sts, slip last 515, 6, 6] sts onto a stitch holder or large safety pin. Work (on remaining sts only: Neck row 2 K2tog tol, k to end. Neck row 3 P to last 2 sts, p2tog tbl Rep neck rows 2 and 3, 1[1, 1, 2] more times. 2nd and 3rd Sizes Only Work neck row 2 once more. P 1 row. All Sizes 14[15, 16, 17] sts remain. Continue in stockinette, beginning with ak row, until length matches Back at beginning of shoulder shaping, ending with a k row. Shape Shoulder Bind off 717, 8, 8] sts purlwise at beginning next row, K 1 row. Bind off remaining 718, 8, 91 sts puriwise. Cut yarn leaving a 10 in, (25 em) tail POCKET TRIM maxe 2 With right side of Front facing, using size 7 (4 mm) needles, rejoin yarn at right of sts left on holder, work seed st row as for Back across these 19[21, 23, 25] sts. Rep this row 3 more times. Bind off working k sts, purlwise and p sts knitwise to keep pattern constant. Cut yarn leaving a 8 in. (20 cm) tal SLEEVES maxe 2 Using size 7 (4% mm) needles cast on 29131, 31, 33] sts.Rep seed st row as for Back until Sleeve measures 3% [3¥, 4, 4] in/9[9, 10, 10] cm ending wrong- side row Change to size 8 (5 mm) needles. Shape Sleeve Row 11, m1 tbl, k to last st, m1 tbl, kT Work 3[5, 5, 5] rows stockinette, beginning and ending P row. 31133, 33, 35] Rep these 4[6, 6, 6] rows 818, 9, 9Jmore times 47149, 51, 5: Continue in stockinette until Sleeve measures 9% (11%, 13, 14¥] in J 24.5129, 33, 37] cm in all with cuff folded in half, ending p row. Place a marker at each end of last row. Work a further 6 rows of stockinette, ending p row. Bind off loosely leaving a long tail COLLAR Block Front and Back using wet-spray method (page 41). Join shoulder seams using backstitch (pages 44-45} With right side of work facing, using size 7 (4% mm) needles, begin at center front, k across 5I5, 6, 6] sts from holder at second side, pick up and k 11[13, 13, 14] sts from second side of front neck shaping, k across 18{20, 22, 24] sts from holder at center back, pick up and k 10[12, 12, 13] sts from first side of front 6, 6] sts neck shaping and k acros: fam holder at first side. 49[55, 59, 63} sts, Shape Collar Stand Row 1 K1, p32[36, 39, 43] sts, turn Row 2 sl 1 purlnise, k17[19, 21, 23], turn Row 3 si 1 purlwise, p22(24, 26, 28], turn Row 4 si 1 purlwise, k27(29, 31, 33], tur Row 5 si purlwise, p to last st, k1 Work Seed St row across all sts, as for Back, 16{16, 18, 18] times in all. Change to a size 8 (5 mm) needle and bind off working k sts purlwise and p sts knitwise GQ PROIECTS AND TECHNIQUES ASSEMBLY Block Sleeves using wet-spray method (page 41: Fold one Sleeve in half to find center of top edge. Matching this point to shoulder seam, join top of Sleeve to armhole, with rows above markers matching bound-off sts of armhole shapings (page 44). Sew on other Slee same way. Join side and sleeve seams using mattress stitch (pages 42-43) Sew down pocket linings and side edges of pocket trims (page 84). Set zipper into front opening (page 85). Run in any remaining endsLACE PATTERNS When working lace patterns, you form the holes (or eyelets) in the knitting by making extra stitches. Each extra stitch is balanced somewhere within the pattern repeat by a corresponding decrease, usually on the same row, so that the number of stitches remains constant over the course of the work. The arrangement of these increases (holes) and decreases, and the methods used for them, determine the appearance of the stitch pattern. In lace knitting, the eyelet holes can be made with either yarn overs or “lifted” stitches. Make one STITCH By YaRN ovER (AsEREVIATED yo) ‘A yarn over increase is made simply by winding the yarn once around the right needle. This creates a hole or eyelet in the knitting, Be careful to wind yarn overs correctly, as shown below—f they twist the wrong way, the following raw will be difficult to work and the appearance of the stitch pattern will be affected. Yarn over between two knit stitches STER> Unisnevars forward between the needles, then return it to the back of the work over the top of the right needle. The yarn is now wrapped from front to back around the right needle and in the correct position to knit the next stitch. STERA2 vneeriae stitch in the usual way and complete the row. This yarn over creates a hole between two knit stitches. StitcH aYarn over between two purl stitches STERM neencverorrene of the work over the top of the right needle, then bring it forward between the needles. The yarn is now wrapped from front to back around the right needle and in the correct position to purl the next stitch, This yarn over creates a hole between two purl stitches. Yarn over after a knit stitch and before a purl stitch STEP? | saniarthayrn onan between the needles, then take it to the back over the top of the right needle and forward again between the needles. The yarn is now in the correct position for purling the next stitch. This yarn over creates a hole between a knit stitch and a pul stitch ‘Yarn over after a purl stitch and before a knit stitch STEP. 1 ne samiein the forward position after working a purl stitch. Take it to the back over the top of the right needle. Bewarel If you take the yarn back between the needles you will not create an extra stitch. QQ PRovecTs AND TECHNIQUESSTEP 2 xovtmne next stitch. This yarn over creates a hole between a purl stitch and a knit stitch, (MAKE ONE STITCH BY “LUFT AND KNIT” (aBsReViaTED m1) A “lifted” eyelet increase is made by lifting up a strand of yarn from the row below and knitting it. This method makes a slightly smaller, neater hole than a yarn over STEP alco tip of the right needle under the horizontal strand of yarn between the last stitch worked and the next stitch. STEP 2 wind he yarn knitwise around the right needle and pull a loop through, under the lifted strand, so knitting an extra stitch, The extra stitch creates a hole STITCH LIBRARY! 91EXAMPLES OF LACE PATTERNS The following stitch patterns show how the yarn over and “lifted” eyelets are used to form lacy textures, See page 127 for abbreviations. Eyelet pattern 1 Each hole in this stitch pattern is made by a yarn over (yo—page 89), balanced by the “knit 2 together” (k2tog—page 67) that follows. This pattern requires a multiple of 5 stitches. Row 1 (Rictsiot now) K. Row2 P Row 3 K4, *yo, k2tog, k3, rep from * to last st, k1. Row 4 P. Row 5k. Row 6 FP. Row 7 K1, *yo, k2tog, k3, rep from * to last 4 sts, yo, k2tog, ka, Row 8 P. Repeat these 8 rows. Eyelet pattern 2 in this example the holes are made by the “lift and knit” method (m1—page 91), Each extra stitch is balanced by the following "knit 2 together” (k2tog—page 67). This pattern requires 2 multiple of 5 stitches, plus 3. Row 1. (Ricisie now) *K3, m1, k2tog, rep from * to last 3 sts, k3. Row 2 P Row 3K Row 4 P Repeat these 4 rows. Zigzags On row 1 of this pattern, each yarn over (yo—page 89) is balanced by the previous “knit 2 together" (k2tog—page 67), whereas on row 3 each yarn over is balanced by the following “slip cone, knit one, pass slipped stitch over” (SKP—pages 65-66). This alternation creates the zigzags. pares This pattern requires a multiple of 5 stitches, plus 3. Re AG Row 1 (Rickr-s0e Row) K3, *k2t0g, yo, k3, rep from * to end, Row 2?, Row 3 K3, *yo, SKP, k3, rep from * to end Row 4p Repeat these 4 rows, QD PROJECTS AND TECHNIQUESLittle towers This pattern uses the yarn over between two purl stitches (page 90). Each yarn over (yo—page 89) is balanced by the “purl 2 together” (p2tog—page 68) that follows, This pattern requires 2 multiple of 6 stitches, plus 1 Row 1 (RiciFsine now) P3, *y0, p2t0g, p4, rep from * to last 4 sts, yo, p2t0g, p2. Row 2 K3, *p1 (into yo of previous row), k5, rep from * to last 4 sts, p1, k3. Row 3 P3, *k1, p5, rep from * to last 4 sts, k1, p3. Row 4 Repeat row 2 Row 5 Repeat row 3 Row6 Row 7 P6, *yo, p2tog, pd, rep from * to last st, pt Row 8 KG, *p1, k5, rep from * to last st, k1 Row 9 P6, *k1, p5, rep from * to last st, p1 Row 10 Repeat row 8 Row 11 Repeat row 9, Row 12 k Repeat these 12 rows Knotted lines This pattern uses the yarn over between two purl stitches (page 90). Each yarn over (yo—page 89) is balanced by the “purl 2 together” (p2teg—page 68) that follows it on row 5 or precedes it on row 7. This pattern requires a multiple of 2 stitches, plus 2. ROW 1 (RIGHT-SIDE ROW) K. Row 2 P. Row 3 kK. Row 4 P, Row 5 P1, *yo, p2tog, rep from * to last st, pt. Row 6 kK. Row 7 P1, *p2tog, yo, rep from * to last st, p1 Row 8 P. Repeat these 8 rows. Chevrons in each repeat of this pattern four yarn overs are made, balanced by two single decreases (SKP and k2tog— pages 65-66 and 67) and one double decrease. These decreases are grouped together at the center of each repeat, which creates a wavy effect. This pattern requires a multiple of 10 stitches, plus 1 Row 1. (RiGHr-sioe Row) *[K1, yo] twice, SKP. sl 1, k2tog, pass s! st over, K2t0g, yo, K1, yo, rep from * to last st, k1 Row 2 P. Repeat these 2 rows. STITCH LIBRARY, 93PROJECT 7 LADY'S LACY VEST To wear by itself or over a T-shirt, this clever vest knits up very quickly on large needles. The dramatic zigzags are simply formed by the wide stitch pattern—very easy!— and emphasized by the unusual random dyed yarn, a cool, soft cotton tape. Sizes to fit bust S2aenssasmece ain 8186 9297 ‘actual measurement 3638 40° © 42~—in 92.97 102 _107_cm jength to shoulder 19° «19% 20 20% in. 48495 51 52m Mareniats Couette Yaris Wicwam (APPROX. 186 v0s/170 mt PER 100 Hank) COLOR Monet (shade 101) 3[4 4 4] 100-g hanks NEEDLES size 10/4 (64 mm) Gave If your gauge is correct over stockinette it will be correct over the zigzag pattern used. Required gauge over stackinette is 16 sts and 23 rows to 4 in, (10 cm) Using size 10/4 (6 mm) needles, cast on 20 sts and work 26 rows stockinette. Measure gauge (pages 50-51), If your gauge is tight, with more sts or rows to 4 in, (10 cm), try another test piece with larger needles. if your gauge is loose, with fewer sts or rows to 4 in. (10, cm), try again with smaller needles, Notes 1. Instructions in brackets { ] refer to the 3 larger sizes. ‘Where only one set of figures is given this refers to all sizes. 2. Vest in photograph is 2nd siz. 94 PROJECTS AND TECHNIQUES ‘Anurewarions knit; p—purl; rep—repeat; st(s)—stitch(es); k2tog—knit 2 together, SKP—slip one, knit one, 1pass slip stitch over; SK2togpsso—slip one, knit 2 together, pass slip stitch over, thus decreasing two stitches; yo—yarn over to make extra stitch (between ‘two knit sts); in.—inches; em—centimeters. BACK Using size 10% (6 mm) needles cast on 79185, 91, 971 st. Rows 1 and 2 to end Zigzag Pattern 1 Row 1 *K1, yo, k11[12, 13, 14], Sk2togpsso, k11[12, 13, 14], yo, rep from * twice more to last st, kt Row 2 to end Rep these 2 rows until Back measures 1114(12, 12, 1214 in./29130.5, 31, 32] cm in all down to lower point, ending row 2. Make a note of the number of pattern rows you have worked. Shape Armholes Note that stitch pattern should remain constant throughout. dec row 1 SKP k10[11, 12, 13], Sk2togpsso, place a ring marker on this st, pattern as established ending Sk2togpsso, k10[11, 12, 13], k2tog dec row 2 P to end dec row 3 SKP. k to 1 st before marker, pattern as established (begin Sk2togpsso) to last 2 sts, K2t0g dec row 4 P to end. Rep dec rows 3 and 4, 314, 4, 5] more times. 1st and 3rd sizes only Next row SKP. pattern as established (begin Sk2togpsso}, ending SK2tagpssa, k2tog2nd and 4th sizes only Next row SKP. k2tog, pattern as established ending SKP, k2tog, All Sizes Next row P to end. 55[59, 63, 67]ssts. ** Zigzag Pattern 2 ‘Ast row K1, k2tog, *k11112, 13, 14], yo, k1, yo, K11[12, 13, 14], *Sk2togpsso, rep from * to * once more, SKF, k1 2nd row P to end Rep these 2 rows until Back measures 19[19%, 20, 20%] in/4849.5, 51, 52] cm in all down to lower point, ending 2nd row. Bind off. Cut yarn leaving a short tail. Make @ note of the total number of pattern rows. FRONT Work as given for Back to ** Shape Front Neck: First Side ‘Ast row K1, k2tog, K11112, 13, 14], yo, k2, turn, Work on these sts only: 2nd row P to end, Rep these 2 rows until length matches Back ending 2nd row. Bind off leaving a 10 in, (25 cm) tail Second Side With right side of Front facing, rejoin yarn at right of remaining sts. Bind off 23[25, 27, 29] sts at center. 16[17, 18, 19] sts remain 1st row K2, yo, K11[12, 13, 14], SP kT 2nd row P to end. Rep these 2 rows until length matches Back ending 2nd row. Bind off leaving a 10 in. (25 cm) tail ASSEMBLY Block pieces using water-spray method (page 41). Join left shoulder seam with backstitch (pages 44-45) using tail left for this purpose, matching pattern. NECK BORDER With right side of work facing, using size 10% (6% mm) needles, begin at top of back neck in 2nd yo along top edge: pick up and k25(27, 29, 31] sts, ending in next yo; 18[18, 20, 20] sts down first side of front neck shaping; 23125, 27, 29] sts from center front and 18118, 20, 20] sts from second side of front neck shaping. 84188, 96, 100] sts. Next row K to end. Bind off Join remaining shoulder seam, matching pattern. ARMHOLE EDGE axe 2 With right side of work facing, using size 10% (6 mm) needles, pick up and k64[64, 68, 68) sts evenly from armhole edge. Next row K to end. Bind off, Using mattress stitch (pages 4243) join side sears, matching patterns. Run in yarn ends along seams. Te If the colors of a space-dyed yarn coincide, producing a pattern you don't like as the knitting proceeds, cut yarn and rejoin leaving approx. 8 in. (20 cm) tals, to break the rhythm; or join in a 2nd ball and work in stripes of 2 raws from each ball. LADIES’ LACY vesT 95CABLES AND TWISTS Different arrangements of cables and twists, crossed from right to left or from left to right, give rise to many interesting stitch patterns, such as those used in traditional Aran knitting Castes These are formed by crossing one group of stitches over another at regular intervals such as every four, six, or eight rows. Each group may be two, three, ‘or more stitches. A cable of two groups of two stitches is called a foursstitch ‘able. The examples below are sixstitch cables, worked with two groups of three stitches. Cables are worked with the help of a cable needle: a short double-pointed needle, about 4 in. (10 cm) long (see page 15). This may be straight or shaped with a kink in the middle to prevent stitches from slipping off. Choose a cable needle slightly smaller in size than the main needles in use, to avoid stretching the stitches. Cable to left (six-stitch cable shown, abbreviated C6L) STEP 1 ona ight side row, work to the position required for the able. Holding the cable needle at the front of the ‘work, insert it purlwise into the first group (three stitches), slipping them one by one off the left needle STEPS recite cable needle at the front of the work, knit the next group (next 3 stitches).STEP! 3 then nthe ooo of stitches on the cable needle, beginning with the first stitch slipped, The cable twists to the left. The cable shown here was worked on every eighth row. Cable to right (sixstitch cable shown, abbreviated C6R) STEP lich aisheice at work to the position required for the cable. Holding the cable needle at the back of the work, insert it purlwise into the first group (three stitches), slipping them one by one off the left needle. STEP 2: xesning tn cate needle at the back of the work, knit the next group (next three stitches). ‘Then knit the group of stitches on the cable needle, beginning with the first stitch slipped. The cable twists to the right, The cable shown here was worked on every eighth row.Tunsts ‘These are simply two stitches worked in such a way as to twist either to the right or the left. No cable needle is necessary. Left twist (abbreviated LT) STEPS Loner oumnbe the required position. Skip the first stitch on the left needle and insert the right needle into the back of the second stitch, behind the first stitch. Wrap the yarn knitwise and pull through a loop, leaving the second stitch on the left needle. STEP. 2 ser the right needle through the back loops of the first and second stitches together, wrap the yar knitwise, and pull through another loop, slipping both stitches off the left needle. Moving the position of the left twist by one stitch to the left on every right-side row creates a diagonal line sloping up to the left. Te To make a Left Twist that is the exact reverse of the Right Twist on page 99, itis necessary to insert the right needle from the back of the work (behind the fist stitch) into the front of the second stitch instead of the back. na AND TECHNIQUESRight twist (abbreviated RT) STEP 1 one iat side row, work to the required position. Insert the right needle knitwise into the two stitches together. ‘Wrap the yarn knitwise and pull through a loop, leaving both stitches on the left needle. STEP. 2 kobthetis stitch again in the usual way. STEP 3 sipton stitches off the left needle. Moving the position of the right twist by one stitch to the right on every right-side row creates a diagonal line sloping up to the right. ‘STITCH onEXAMPLES OF CABLE AND TWIST PATTERNS Special abbreviations used: CaR—cable 4 sts to right thus: slip next 2 sts onto cable needle at back of work, k next 2 sts then k2 from cable needle; CAL—cable 4 sts to left, as CAR but holding cable needle at front of work; RT—right twist; UT—left twist Y Honeycomb pattern requires a multiple of & sts. Row 1 (aicir-sie Row) K. Row 2 P. Row 3 *CaL, C4R, repeat from * to end. Row 4 P. Row 5 AND 6 Repeat rows 1 and 2. Row 7 *C4R, CAL, repeat from * to end. Row 8 P. Repeat these 8 rows. aI: AND TECHNIQUES: 4 Double cable panel Shown here worked over 8 sts (2 cables, each of 4 sts), with 1 st at each side in reverse stockinette stitch, making a panel 10 sts wide on a background of stockinette stitch, Work the required 10 sts as follows, with the remaining sts in stockinette stitch: Row 1 (rickr-siot Row) PI, k8, p1 Row 2 K1, p8, k1 Rows 3 ano 4 Repeat rows 1 and 2. Row 5 Pi, C4R, Cal, pt Row 6 Repeat row 2 Repeat these 6 rows. 4 Raindrops requires a multiple of 5 sts, plus 7 Row 1 (fickr-siot now) K3, *RT, k3, repeat from * to last 3 sts, RT, kT Row 2 AND EVERY WRONG SIDE ROW P Row 3 K2, *RT, k3, repeat from * to last 4 sts, RT, K2 Row 5 K1, *RT, k3, repeat from * to end Rows 7 ano 9 K. Row 10 F Repeat these 10 rows. ‘A Zigzags requires a multiple of 5 sts, plus 2 Row 1 (picisioe row) K1, *UT, k3, repeat from * to last st, k1 Row 2 AND EVERY WRONG-SIDE ROW P. Row 3 K2, *LT, k3, repeat from * to end. Row 5 K3, “LT, k3, repeat from * to last 4 sts, U7, k2 Row 7 Ki, *k3, LT, repeat from * to last st, k1 Row 9 Ki, *k3, RT, repeat from * to last st, k1 Row 11 k3, *RT, k3, repeat from * to last 4 sts, rt, k2. Row 13 2, *RT, k3, repeat from * to end. Row 15 K1, *RT, k3, repeat from * to last st. k1 Row 16 P Repeat these 16 rowsTEXTURED STITCHES There are several different ways in which stitches may be worked: long stitches, slipped stitches, yarn overs, reversed stitches, and increases or decreases can all be combined in many different ways to form a huge variety of patterns. Long stitches and slip stitches are described below; the other techniques used for the stitch patterns in this section are described elsewhere: yarn overs on pages 89-90, reverse stitches on page 37, and increases and decreases on pages 62-70. Lons strc Formed by wrapping the yarn two (or more) times around the needle instead of ‘once, and dropping the extra laap(s) on the following row. Shown here worked knitwise, winding the yarn twice around the needle (abbreviated kwtw). STEP. 1 ner the oh ned knitwise in the required stitch and wrap the yarn twice around the needle tip, instead of once. STEP. 2 puisne doubie con through in the same way as when knitting a stitch,STEP. 3 onthe ftowing rw, he double loop may be worked as knit or purl, according to the pattern; here the right needle is shown inserted knitwise Work the stitch and drop the extra loop from the needle ‘A complete row of long stitches, worked as part of a long stitch stripe pattern of five rows of garter stitch (knit every row) followed by ‘one row of long stitches (repeat these 6 rows) Sup snircHEs Long stitches, and other stitches, may be slipped from one row to the next ‘without working into them. To prevent ‘5 twisting, such stitches shauld always be slipped purlwise, unless directed otherwise. Depending con the pattern row, the working yarn may be held behind or in front of the slip stitch. Slip one with yarn in back (abbreviated st 1 ‘wyib) Normally worked on a right-side row, to keep the slip stitch at the right side of the work ‘With the yarn at the side of work away from you. (@s when working a knit stitch), insert the right needle purlwise into the required stitch and slip it from the left needle to the right needle without sl 1 wyif) Normally worked on a wrong side working into it. , row, to keep the slip stitch at the right side of the work. With the yarn at the side of work nearest to you (as when working a pull stitch), insert the right needle purlwise into the required stitch and slip it from the left needle to the right needle without working into it ‘one with yarn in front (abbreviated | 02 PROJECTS AND TECHNIQUESEXAMPLES OF TEXTURED STITCH PATTERNS Special abbreviations used: kwtw—knit winding yarn twice: pwtw—purl winding yarn twice; sl 1—slip one (purlwise); wyib—with yarn in back; wyif—with yarn in front; p3tog—purl 3 together, MB—make bobble thus: k into front, back and front again of next st, turn the work, p3, turn the work, k3, pass first and second sts over third st; MT—make tail thus: turn the work and using the two-needle method (see pages 20-23), cast on 5 sts onto the left needle, bind off the same 5 sts, slip 1 st from the right needle to the left needle, turn the work, and push the tail to the right side of the work before continuing along the row. Long stitch waves requires a multiple of 10 sts, plus 9. Row 110 3K. Row 4 K2, *(kwtw) 5 times, k5, repeat from * to last 7 sts, FEES (ewvtwy) 5 times, k2. a © Row 5 k2, *{kwtw dropping extra loop) 5 times, k5, repeat from ct ae | * to last 7 sts, (kwtw dropping extra loop) 5 times, k2. out ¢ Row 6 K2, *(k1 dropping extra loop) 5 times, k5, repeat from * “1.7 to last 7 sts, (k1 dropping extra loop) 5 times, k2. | Row7 109K. © Row 10.2, “45, kurt) 5 times, repeat from * to last 7 sts, K7. ct _/ yf Row 11 k2, *kS, (kwtw dropping extra loop) 5 times, repeat from * to last 7 sts, k7. Row 12 2, *kS, (k1 dropping extra loop) 5 times, repeat from * to last 7 sts, k7. Repeat these 12 rows, Soo ae ol, MS pee i Slip stitch bricks requires 2 multiple of 6 sts, plus 3. In this slip stitch pattern, long stitches are slipped for 3 rows before being worked. Row 1 (aicirsine now) Using first color, knit. Row 2 P1, *pwtw, pS, repeat from * to last 2 sts, pwtw, pt Row 3 Change to second color, k1, *s! 1 wyity dropping extra loop, k5, repeat from * to last 2 sts, 1 wyib dropping extra loop, kt Row 4 P1, *sI 1 wyif, 05, repeat from * to last 2 sts, sl 1 wyif, pl Row 5 K1, *31 1 wnib, KS, repeat from * to last 2 sts, 1 wyib, kt Row 6 P4, *pwtw, p5, repeat from * to last 5 sts, pwtw, pA, Row 7 Change to first color, k4, “31 1 wyib dropping extra loop, 5, repeat from * to last 5 sts, sl 1 wyib dropping extra loop, kd. Row 8 P4, *s| 1 wy, p5, repeat from * to last 5 sts, sl 1 wyif, pa Row 9 K4, *sI 1 wyib, K5, repeat from * to last 5 sts, si 1 wytb, kd. Row 10 P1, “pwtw, p5, repeat from * to last 2 sts, pwtw, pt Repeat rows 3 to 10, ending with either row 5 or 9. Finish by purling one row. ‘SmircH 103Trinity stitch requires a multiple of 4 sts. Row 1 (ficHr-sioe Row) F Row 2 *(K1, p1, k1) all into same stitch, p3t0g, repeat from * to end. Row 3 P. Row 4 *P3tog, (k1, p1, ki) all into same stitch, repeat from * to end. Repeat these 4 rows Bobble dots requires a multiple of 6 sts, plus 3, Row 1 (rici-sioe Row) K. Row 2 P. Row 3 K1, *MB, k5, repeat from * to last 2 sts, MB, k1 Row 4 Purl, pushing bobbles to front of work Row 5 10 8 Repeat rows 1 and 2, twice Row 9 K4, *MB, k5, repeat from * to last S sts, MB, ka. Row 10 Repeat row 4. Rows 11 awo 12 Repeat rows 1 and 2. Repeat these 12 rows. Little tails requires a multiple of 6 sts, plus 3 Row 1 (fici-sibe Row) K. Row 2 P. Row 3 K1, *MT, k5, repeat from * to last 2 sts, MT, k1 Row 4 Purl, pushing tails to right side of work. Row 5 AND 6 Repeat rows 1 and 2. Row 7 K4, *MT, k5, repeat from * to last 5 sts, MT, k4 Row 8 Repeat row 4 Repeat these 8 rows. 104 Prosects ano TechiiquesPROJECT 8 CABLE CUSHION Practice your cabling skills with this tactile cushion, textured with Plaited Cables and Twists. In Aran-weight yarn, it's quick to knit, with no shaping to distract you from the pattern. You might want two or three! FinisheD Size tofitpillow form 16x 16 in, (40x 40 cm) Mareniais Kine Cote Mosy 100 (aeerox. 210 v0s/192 m ren 100 c Batt) cotor granary (shade 89) 2 100-9 balls NEEDLES sizes 7 (4/4 mm) and 6 (4 mm) cable needle 3 large buttons Gauce Using size 7 (4% mm) needles, cast on 29 sts and work 26 rows Cable Pattern as below. This piece should easily stretch to a width of 6 in. (15 cm), as it will be stretched in use, and length should measure 4 in, (10 cm), IF your test-piece is too sinall, try another with larger needles. If your test-piece is too large, try again with smaller needles Gauge is not crucial provided a change in size is acceptable, but if your gauge is too loose extra yarn may be required and the cushion cover will stretch in use ‘Avpreviarions k—Knit; p—purl; rep—repeat; st(s)—stitch(es); (C6R—cable 6 sts to right: slip 3 sts to cable needle, hold at back of work, k next 3 sts then k3 from cable needle; C6L—cable 6 sts to left: as COR but hold cable needle at front of work; RT—right twist; in inches; em—ceotimeters. CABLE CUSHION 4 05CUSHION Using size 6 (4 mm) needles cast on 71 sts Button Band Rib row 1 *K1, p1, rep from * to last st, k1 Rib row 2 *P1, k1, rep from * to last st, pt Rep these 2 rows 4 more times. 10 rib rows in all Change to size 7 (4% mm) needles Cable Pattern Row 1 K1, *RT, p2, RT, p3, k9, 3, rep from * to last 7 sts, RT, p2, RT, k1 Row 2 K1, *p2, k2, p2, k3, p9, k3, rep from * to last 7 sts, p2, k2, p2, k1 Rows 3 and 4 Rep rows 1 and 2 Row 5 K1, *RT, p2, RT, p3, C6R, k3, p3, rep from to last 7 sts, RT, p2, RT, k1 Row 6 Rep row 2 Rows 7-10 Rep rows 1 and 2, twice in al Row 11.K1, *RT, p2, RT, p3, k3, C6L, p3, rep from * to last 7 sts, RT, p2, RT, k1 Row 12 Rep row 2 Rep these 12 rows until piece measures 30 in. (76 cm) ending with row 2 or row 8. Change to size 6 (4 mm) needles. Buttonhole Band Rep rib rows 1 and 2 as for Button Band, twice in all. See Two-Row Buttonhole (page 83). Sth row rib 13 sts as established, “bind off next 3 sts, 1 st remains on right needle, rib next 17 sts as established, rep from * once more, bind off next 3 sts, rib as established to end, 3 buttonholes. 6th row *rib as established to buttonhole, turn work, cast on 3 sts, turn work, rep from * twice more, rib as established to end. Rep rib rows 1 and 2 as for Button Band, twice more. 10 rib rows in all Bind off in k and p as established. Cut yarn leaving a4 in, (10 cm) tail ‘ASSEMBLY Do not block or press. ‘With right side outwards, fold work to form a square with Buttonhole Band overlapping Button Band at center back, Use mattress stitch (pages 42-43) to join side edges. Run in remaining yarn ends. ‘Sew on buttons to match buttonholes. Tw You can easily see the stitches in this pattern because the cables and twists form strong vertical lines. But it's not so easy to keep count of the rows: write the row. numbers 1~12 on a scrap of paper and check off each row as you complete it, over and over until your work is the required length. Then you won't work the cables, ‘on the wrong row! 106 Prolects ano TECHNIQUESFair Isle knitting derives from the multi-colored traditional knitting of the Shetland Isles, worked in stockinette stitch in many colors, but never with more than two colors in one row. Traditional patterns consisted of small motifs repeated across the work and were often worked “in the round’ so that the right side of the pattern was always visible. The term “Fair Isle” is nowadays used to describe any multi-colored knitting with a pattern repeat. To work such a pattern, the color not in use must be carried across the wrong side of the work by one of the methods described below. STRANDING Use this method to carry a color across the wrong side of no more than four stitches. For longer intervals, use the twisting technique on page 109. Each strand of yar left on the wrong side of the work is called a “float.” Long floats tend to catch on fingers or jewelry and so the knitting can be spoiled. Short floats are fine. Do not work t00 tightly or the knitting will be distorted. The floats should be loose enough to allow the knitting to lie completely flat. When stranding or twisting, some knitters find it convenient to hold the main color in the right hand in the usual way, and the contrast color with the fingers of the left hand. This method avoids the need to drop the colors and pick them up again but needs practice to achieve an even gauge. 'STRANDING OW A KIT ROW STEP. 1 che poston exited for a stitch in the contrast color (orange), insert the right needle into the next stitch, drop the main color (blue) from the right forefinger and pick up the contrast color in front of the main color. Use the contrast to knit the required stitches to the position of the next color change. Fair ISLE (TWO-COLOR oeSTEP! 2 were maaan needle into the next stitch, drop the contrast color (orange) from the right forefinger and pick up the main color behind the contrast color. Use the main color to knit the required stitches to the position of the next color change. Repeat steps 1 and 2 as required to the end of the row. VOB Proects Ano Techniques SSTRANDING ON A PURL ROW Pick Up and drop the main and contrast colors in the same way without twisting them, keeping one color always above the other. The color carried lower will be slightly more prominent on the right side of the work, so if the colors are not carried consistently throughout, the surface will appear uneven Te Spread out the stitches Con the right needle when changing colors to prevent the floats from becoming too short and puckering the work ‘AT THE BEGINNING OF A KNIT OR PURL ROW Fair Isle patterns are often worked with a selvage stitch in the main color at each edge. At the beginning of every row (shown here on a knit row), twist the contrast color around the main color before using the main calor for the selvage stitch. This keeps the edge stitches neat.TWISTING Where a pattern requires one color to pass behind more than four stitches of another color, the yarns should be twisted every two or three stitches on the wrong side of the work. TWISTING ON A KNIT ROW At the position required for a twist, drop the color in use (white), pass the other color (blue) over it, and pick up the color in-use (white) again with the right forefinger. At the next position for a twist, drop the color in use, pass the other color under it, and pick up the color in use. Alternating the direction of the twists in this way prevents the yarns from becoming tangled, TWISTING OW A PURL ROW Twist the two colors in the same way, every two or three stitches. Te If you've finished a garment and suddenly spot a small mistake in a Fair Isle pattern, itis possible to cheat a litle (unless you are 3 ‘rue perfectionist) by using swiss darning to change the color of one or two stitches, as shown on page 118 Stagger the position of the twists from row to row to prevent the twists from showing through on the right side of the work. AT THE BEGINNING OF A KNIT OR PURL ROW Twist the colors together in the same way 2s when stranding, Fair ISLE (TWO-COLOR orProject 9 FAIR ISLE SWEATER With a boldly patterned front, plain back, and plain sleeves, this young design knits up quickly in Aran wool yarn. The coordinating shoulder bag completes the look—if you're new to Fair Isle knitting, try making the bag before tackling the sweater. Ses SWEATER to fit bust. ra ee SEP an 81 86 9297 em actual measurement 36.38% 41 43% in 92 104 110.5 cm length to shoulder 19% 21 21% in 49.5 53.5 54.5 cm sleeve seam 7 18 in, 43445 445 46 cm BAG Ox 10 in, (25 x25 cm) Mareniats (SWEATER) JaEGER MATCHMAKER MERINO ARAN (APPROX. 90 YOs/82 m™ PER 50 G BALL) oLOR A soft camel (shade 766) 8{9 10 11] 50-9 balls ‘coLoR B mariner (shade 625) 1 50-g ball ‘couor ¢ sage (shade 755) 1 50-9 ball (CoLoR D glow (shade 762) 1 50-q ball ‘couoR E rosy (Shade 764) 1 50-g ball ‘couoR F cream (shade 662) 1 50-g ball eeDies sizes 8 (5 mm), 7 (4% mm), and 5 (3% mm) set of 4 double-pointed or circular needle size 6 (4 mm) 2 stitch holders: Mareniats (886) COLOR A Soft carmel (shade 766) 2 50-<9 balls, plus remnants of contrast colors from Sweater pairs of needles as for Sweater Zipper length 10 in. (25 cm) to match colA 1.1Q Provects ano TECHNIQUES Gavce Required gauge over stockinette is 19 sts and 25 rows 10 4 in. (10 cm). Using size 7 (4% mm) needles, cast 0n 25 sts and work 28 rows stockinette. Measure gauge (pages 50-51) If your gauge is tight, with more sts oF rows to 4 in (10 em), try another test-piece with larger needles. If your gauge is lonse, with fewer sis or rows to 4 in (10 cm), try again with smaller needles: Required gauge over Fair Isle pattern is 19 sts and 23 rows to-4 in. (10 cm}; you will probably need needles one size larger than those for stockinette, i.e. size 8 (5 mm Cast on 25 sts and work 30 rows Fair isle Pattern as below. Measure gauge and adjust needle size if necessary. ‘Asreviarions k-Knit; p—pur, rep—repeat: sts) —stitch(es increase; k2tog—knit 2 together SKP—slip one, Knit ‘one, pass slip stitch aver; p2tog—purl 2 together, kfb—knit into front and back of same stiteh; mt ‘thl—make one through back loop; sl 1 wyif—slip 1 with yarn in front; col.—color; cm—centimetess. Notes 1. Instructions in brackets [ | refer to the 3 larger sizes. Where only one set of figures is given this refers to all sizes 2. Sweater in photograph is 2nd size.TWISTING Where a pattern requires one color to pass behind more than four stitches of another color, the yarns should be twisted every two or three stitches on the wrong side of the work. ‘TWISTING ON & KNIT ROW At the position required for a twist, drop the color in use (white), pass the other color (blue) over it, and pick up the color in use (white) again with the right forefinger. At the next position for a twist, drop the color in use, pass the ther color under it, and pick up the color in use, Alternating the direction of the twists in this way prevents the yarns from becoming tangled. Twisting ow A PURL ROW Twist the two colors in the same way, every two or three stitches. Te If you've finished a garment and suddenly spot a small mistake in a Fair Isle pattern, itis possible to cheat alittle (unless you are a true perfectionist) by using swiss darning to ‘change the color of one or two stitches, as shown on page 118, Stagger the position of the twists from row to row to prevent the twists from showing through on the right side of the work, [AT THE BEGINNING OF A KNIT OR PURL ROW Twist the colors together in the same way as when stranding FAIR ISLE (TWO-COLOR resPRroJecT 9 FAIR ISLE SWEATER With a boldly patterned front, plain back, and plain sleeves, this young design knits up quickly in Aran wool yarn. The coordinating shoulder bag completes the look—if you're new to Fair Isle knitting, try making the bag before tackling ‘the sweater. Sizes ‘SWEATER to fit bust Saas so issn: B81 86927 cm actualmeasurement 36 38% 41 © 434 in. 9298 1041105 cm length toshoulder 19% 20° 21 «21% in. 49.5 51 535 54.5 cm Sleeve seam 17 17h 17h 18 in, 43.445 445 46 cm BAG 10x 10in. (25% 25 cm) Mareniats (sweater) JAEGER MATCHMAKER MERINO ARAN (APPROX. 90 VOS/82 Per 50 G BALL) ‘coLoR A soft camel (shade 766) 8[9 10 11] 50-g balls CoLoR B mariner (shade 629) 1 50-g ball ‘COLOR C sage (Shade 755) 1 50-g bail ‘cotoR 0 glow (shade 762) 1 50-9 ball COLOR E rosy (shade 764) 1 50-9 ball CouoR F cream (shade 662) 1 50-g ball NEEDLES sizes 8 (5 mm), 7 (4% mm), and 5 (3% mm) set of 4 double-pointed or circular needle size 6 (4 mm) 2 stitch holders ‘MareRiats (BAG) coLoR A soft camel (shade 766) 2 50-9 balls, plus femnants of contrast colors from Sweater pairs of needles as for Sweater Zipper length 10 in, (25 em) to match coLA. 11 PROJECTS AND TECHNIQUES Gauce Required gauge over stockinette is 19 sts and 25 rows 104 in, (10 cm). Using size 7 (4% mm) needles, cast (on 25 sts and work 28 rows stockineite. Measure gauge (pages 50-51), If your gauge is tight, with more sts or rows to 4 in (10 cm), try another test-piece with larger needles. If your gauge is loose, with fewer sis or rows t0'4 in. (10 cm), try again with smaller needles: Required ‘gauge over Fairsle pattern is 19 sts and 23 rows to 4 in. (10 em); you will probably need needles one size: larger than those for stockinette, Le. size 8 (5 mri) Cast on 25 sts and work 30 rows Fair Isle Pattern as below. Measure gauge and adjust needle size if necessary. ‘ABBREVIATIONS k—knit; p—purl, rep—repeat; st(s)—sticch(es); ine— increase; k2tog—knit 2 together: SKP—slip one, knit one, pass slip stiteh over; p2tog—purl 2 together, kfb—knit into front and back of same stitch; mt ‘thl-make one through back loop; sl 1 wyif—slip 1 with yatn in front; col—cotor; in.—inches; cm—centimeters. Notes 4. Instructions in brackets [ ] refer to the 3 larger sizes. Where only one set of figures is given this efers to all sizes. 2, Sweater in photograph is 2nd size.FRONT Using size 5 (3% mm) needles and coLA cast on 85(91, 97, 103] sts. Rib row 1 *P1, k2, rep from * to last st, p1. Rib row 2 *K1, p2, rep from * to last st, k1 Rep these 2 rows until rib measures 22, 21, 3] inJ5IS, 6.5, 7.S}em ending rib row 1 (right-side row) Change to size 7 (4% mm) needles and col.B. Next row Kfb, p to last st, kfb. 87[93, 99, 105] sts. ** Cut col. Fair Isle Pattern (see chart on page 112) NOTE: cols. should be twisted or stranded (pages 107-109) on every 2-color row. When cutting and joining in cols. leave 4 in, (10 cm) tails to be run in later. Change to size & (5 mm) needles if necessary. Row 1 (right-side row) Join in cols. B and C. In ‘ols. as shown reading chart row 1 from right to left, k first st, k next 6 sts 14[15, 16, 17] times, k last 2 sts Row 2 (wrong-side row) Reading chart row 2 from left to right, p 1st and 2nd sts, p next 6 sts 14[15, 16, 17] times, p last st Continue in this way, reading from successive chart rows, cutting and joining in cols. as necessary, Until chart row 40 is complete. Work chart rows 1-20 again. 60 Fair Isle rows. Total length (including ribbing) should measure 12{12, 124, 13] in /30.5130.5, 32, 33] cm. Shape Armholes Keeping pattern constant, beginning chart row 21, bind off 6 sts at beginning next 2 rows (knitwise on right-side row, purlwise on wrong- side row), dec row 1 SKP, pattern as established to last 2 sts, k2tog, dec row 2 pattern as established. Rep these 2 rows 5[5, 8, 8] more times, ending chart row 34[34, 40, 40]. 63[69, 69, 75} sts 1st and 2nd Sizes Only Work chart rows 35-40 as established. All Sizes Change to size 7 (4% mm) needles and col.A, k 1 row. Change to col.C, p 1 row. Change to COLD, k 1 row. Change to col. €, p 1 row. Change to col.4 and continue in stockinette until Front measures 515%, 6, 6] in/ 12.5[14, 15, 15] cm from beginning of armhole shaping, ending p row. Shape Neck: First Side Neck row 1 K 25127, 27, 29] sts, turn. Work on ‘these sts only Neck row 2 P2tog, p to last st, k1 Neck row 3 K to last 2 sts, k2tog. Rep neck rows 2 and 3, 3 more times.17{19, 19, 21] sts remain, Continue in stockinette until Front measures 7% [8, 8%, 8] in/19[20.5, 21.5, 21.5] cm from beginning of armhole shaping, ending p row. Total length 194 [20, 21, 21% in/49.5151, 53.5, 54.5] om. Shape Shoulder Bind off 8[9, 9, 10] sts at beginning next row, k to end. Work 1 p row. Bind off remaining 9[10, 10, 11} sts. Second Side With right side of Front facing, slip 13[15, 15, 17] sts at center front to a holder. Rejoin col.A at right of remaining sts and k 25(27, 27, 29] sts to end. Neck row 2 Ki, p to last 2 sts, p2tog tbl Neck row 3 SKP k to end. Rep these 2 rows, 3 more times. 17119, 19, 21] sts remain, Continue in stockinette until length matches First Side at beginning of shoulder shaping, ending p row. K 1 row. Shape Shoulder Bind off 89, 9, 10] sts purlwise at beginning next row, P to end. Work 1 k row. Bind off remaining 9[10, 10, 11] sts purlwise Run in all Fair Isle ends along wrong side of rows (page 45). BACK Work as given for Front to **. Continue in stockinette and col.A, beginning with 2 k row, until length matches Front at beginning of armhole shaping, ending with a p row. NOTE: there will be a few more rows than on Front, not the same number. Shape Armholes Bind off 6 sts at beginning next 2 rows (knitwise On right-side row, purlwise on wrong-side row).dec row 1 SKP,k to last 2 sts, k2tog dec row 2 P. Rep these 2 rows 5[5, 8, 8] more times. 63169, 69, 75) sts. Continue in stockinette until length matches Front at beginning of shoulder shaping, ending p row. Shape Shoulders Bind off 8(9, 9, 10} sts at beginning next 2 rows, and 9{10, 10, 11] sts at beginning following 2 rows (knitwise on right-side rows, purlwise on wrong-side rows), Leave remaining 29131, 31, 33] sts on a holder. SLEEVES axe 2 Using size 5 (3% mm) needles and col. cast on 4343, 46, 46] sts. Rep rib rows 1 and 2 as for Front, 8 times in al. 16 rib rows. Change to size 7 (44 mm) needles. Shape Sleeve Row 11, m1 tbl, k to last st, m1 tbl, k1. 45(45, 48, 48] sts ‘Work 5 rows stockinette, beginning and ending prow. Rep these 6 rows 12[12, 14, 14] more times. 6969, 76, 76] st. Continue in stockinette until Sleeve measures 1717%, 174, 18] in /43[44.5, 44.5, 46] cm in all, or length required, ending with a p row. Shape Top of Sleeve Cast off 6 sts at beginning next 2 rows (knitwise ‘on right-side row, purlwise on wrong-side row). 57157, 64, 64] sts remain. Rep dec rows 1 and 2 as for Back, 12[12, 15, 15] times in all, 33133, 34, 34] sts remain. Next row SKP k to last 2 sts, k2tog. Following row P2tog, p to last 2 sts, p2tog tbl. 29129, 30, 30] sts remain. Rep these 2 rows once more, Bind off remaining 25125, 26, 26] sts TURTLENECK Block Front and Back using warm-steam method (page 41), avoiding ribbing. Join shoulder seams using backstitch (page 44). With right side of ‘work facing, using set of 4 double-pointed or Gircular needle size 6 (4 mm) and col.A, begin at fight shoulder seam, k across 29[31, 31, 33] sts Wh Coma 766 4 i HE coves 629 » i. WH coe 755 Fy Gi cows 762 x op BH cone 764 5 s OC couor F 662 d ht” 2 x ~ » : from holder at back 4 S neck, pick up and k 2 (pages 46-47) 24125, 28, 29] sts from first side of front neck shaping, k across 13115, 15, 17] sts from holder at center front and pick up and k24 [25, 28, 29] sts from second side of front neck shaping. 90(96, 102, 108] sts. Work in rounds with wrong side of turtleneck facing you: Round 1 *P2, k1, rep from * to end Rep this round until turtleneck measures 6 in, (15 cm), ending at right shoulder seam. Change to a size 7 (4% mm) needle and bind off in k and p as established. | Rercar 6 Soci ASSEMBLY Block Sleeves using warm-steam method (page 41), avoiding ribbing. Fold one Sleeve in half to find center of top edge. Matching this point to shoulder seam, join top edge of Sleeve to armhole (page 44). Sew on other Sleeve in same way. Join side and sleeve seams using mattress stitch (pages 42-43). Press seams using warm steam, avoiding ribbing. Fold turtleneck over.BAG Ts Front Panel |The bag strap is made with a chain st Using size 7 (4% mm) needles and col.A, cast on 1. The bag strap is made with a chain stitch 51 sts selvage on both edges (page 59) 2. For a really neat finish, work all the other Pieces with simple garter stitch selvage (page 59}: on every wrong-side row of stockinette and Fair Isle pattern, work the first and last st 2 k instead of p. When assembling, take these selvage sts into seams Beginning with a p row, work 16 rows stockinette, ending with a k row. Change to col, p1 row. Change to col.D, k1 row. Change to col.C, p1 row. Change to col.A, k1 row. 20 rows in all Fair Isle Pattern Change to size 8 (5 mm) needles. Work in Fair Isle Pattern as given for Sweater Front, but beginning chart row 21 and ending chart row 40, and repeating the 6 sts 8 times. 20 pattern rows; 40 rows in all Change to size 7 (4% mm) needles and col.A, k1 row. Change to col, pt row. Change to col.D, k1 row. Change to col, p1 row. Change to col.A and work 16 rows stockinette, beginning k row and ending p row. 60 rows in all Fold row (right-side row) p to end Back Panel Continue in stockinette, beginning with a p row, until Back length matches Front exactly when piece is folded along fold row. NOTE: there will be a few more rows than Front Panel. End with a p row. Bind off, STRAP Using size 5 (3% mm) needles and COLA, cast on 9 sts. Row 1! 1 purlwise wyif, k8. Rep this row until Strap measures 32 in, (81 cm) when slightly stretched {as it will be in use). Bind off ASSEMBLY Block Bag using warm-steam method (page 41). Set zipper between cast- on and bounc-off edges, back- stitching in place (page 85). Join side seams. Sew one end of Strap to top left corner of Front Panel and other end to opposite corner of Back Panel, FAIR ISLE SWEATER nla 3Fic 1 This technique is used for knitting blocks of separate colors without carrying yarns across the wrong side of the work. A separate ball of yarn is wound for each area of color. Intarsia knitting is therefore suitable for large geometric designs and picture knitting. It is normally worked from a chart. ORGANIZING THE YARN You need a separate ball of yarn for each area of color: some balls may need to be wound into two or more small balls. Larger balls of yarn may be kept clean and tidy by placing them in plastic bags loosely secured with rubber bands, Small amounts of yarn may be wound onto bobbins which may be purchased or homemade. You can make your own bobbins by tracing the outline of Fig 1 onto cardboard and cutting it out. Wind the yarn round the bobbin as shown in Fig 2. Ss re Fig 2 a AND TECHNIQUES =READING FROM A CHART Each small square, or rectangle, on a chart represents one stitch, and a chart normally shows the knit side of stockinette stitch. Charts may be printed in color, ‘or each area may be labeled with a color name or each stitch square may contain a symbol for a particular color. A chart may show the whole width of the knitting, with the different sizes indicated by dotted lines, or it may show only the area of a motif, when the stitches at each side of the motif are in one background color. Rows are usually numbered on the side edges of the chart, with odd numbers (right-side rows) numbered at the right and even numbers (wrong-side rows) at the left Working in stockinette stitch, read knit rows (right-side rows with odd numbers) from right to left, and purl rows (wrong- side rows with even numbers) from left to right. Count the stitches carefully, 1, First Row OF THE MonIE Use the first color to Knit the required number of stitches. Drop the first color, pick Up the second color, and leaving a 6 in. (15 cm) tail, use it to knit the required number of stitches. The tail will be run in later, tightening the first stitch. Continue in this way along the row, using as many different balls of yarn as the design requires. If there are two areas of the same color, use a separate ball for each area. If you ‘erry a color across from one area to another, the result will be uneven, 2. Sussequent rows Colors are twisted around each other at each color change to avoid holes in the work, To change colors on a knit row At the position required for a color change, drop the old color and pick up the new color behind the previous color, so that. the yarns are crossed on the wrong side of the work. Work the first stitch in the new color rather tightly. - INTARSIA (PICTURE KNITTING)To change colors on a purl row Bring the new color up behind the previous color in the same way so the yarns are crossed on the wrong side of the work (the side facing you). Here is the right side of the work. 3. RUN IN THE ENDS At the end of each color area, cut the color no longer required, leaving @ 6 in. (15 cm) tail. Leave all the tails at the wrong side of the work. Thread each tail into a blunt-tipped needle. On the wrong side, begin by passing the needle up through the top loop of the adjoining stitch of another color (not the adjoining stitch of the same calor) and pull gently to tighten the fist (or last) stitch to the correct size. Then thread the needle in and out of the loops along the edge of the color block for at least 2 in. (5 cm) before cutting the tail Ties 1. Check off each cow of the chart as you complete it. 5. When working each color change, look ahead to see 2. your chart is notin color, tape a small piece of each ‘where the corresponding change occurs on the next row. color to the chart key to avoid mistakes. If it will occur before the current change, you can twist the 3. Untangle the balls and bobbins every few rows. colors every one or two stitches up to that position on. 4, When working a color change several stitches along ‘the current row, then leave the old color where it will the row from the previous change, twist the colors every be required on the next row. ‘one or two stitches in the same way as for Fair Isle knitting _6. IF you forget tips 4 and 5 and find you have left some [pages 107-109) to carry the new color into position long floats, you can probably catch them in when you run ‘without a long "float." in the endstDetails of knitted motifs may be enhanced with embroidery, or small motifs added entirely in this way. Simple embroidery stitches, such as chain stitch, may be worked in wool or another compatible yarn but are often susceptible to damage when worn—swiss darning as described below is much more robust. Pompoms and other decorations such as simple braids may be made from wool, or braids and cords purchased ready-made. Beads may be sewn onto a finished garment, although knitting them in as the work proceeds, as below, is much more secure. SWISS DARNING The technique of swiss darning (duplicate stitch) matches the appearance of stockinette stitch. Choose a yarn of the same thickness as that used for the knitting, or even a little heavier, to cover the knitted stitches completely, Use a blunt- tipped needle, or tapestry needle, of a suitable size and take care not to split the knitted stitches with the needle point but pass the needle between the knitted strands. Morir FOR SWISS DARNING Each small square represents one MV VIV knitted stitch VVVVV nitted stitch, swiss- darn VVVVV Mignccrmenee FINISHING aySTEP 1 tease an. 15cm tat the back of the the work when starting the first stitch. (This will be run in later) Bring the needle up at the base of the stitch to be covered and pass it from right to left under the two threads forming the stitch above, Pull the yarn through, STEN resncar thereat base of the stitch, where it frst emerged, and pull the excess yarn through to the back, so covering one knitted stitch. Do not work too tightly or the knitting will be distorted STEP! S vines yoita evel rows of swiss darning, begin at the base Of the motif, work one row from right 10 left and the next from left to right, ending at the top of the motif. When the ‘embroidery is complete, run in the yarn ends on the wrong side of the work. JRIIQIPROvECTS ano TechniquesMAKING A POMPOM Use a pair of compasses to draw two circles of the size a required for the pompom onto cardboard, with a small circle at the center of each. Cut out the circles, cut 7 a small wedge out of each circle, and cut out the central holes. The two pieces should be the same. _ STEPS lpacesna es pieces together. Beginning at the outer edge, wind the yarn around the circles until they are completely covered and the central hole is almost full, ending at the outer edge. Cut the yarn. The more yarn you wind, the fatter the finished pompom will be. STEP. 2 stpthe pont of your scissors between the two layers of cardboard and cut through the yarn all around. FINISHING TOUCH!STEP 3 take a 12.0 cm) length of yatn and tie it tightly round the center between the two layers of cardboard, Remove the cardboard circles—if you are careful, you can use them again. Trim off any ragged ends and use the tying thread to attach the pompom. Tw Make multi-colored pompoms by winding two or three different yarns together KNITTING WITH BEADS It is most important to choose beads that will fit easily onto the knitting yarn. STEPS Uscee eats < to knit, thread all the beads a required onto the ball of yarn, using a needle that fits comfortably through the beads. If the yarn runs out before the / bead (ning Eco nee eee d If the needle threaded with the yarn is too big for the beads, use a thread the remaining beads onto ¢ knotted length of finer thread to a new ball in the same way. / lead the yarn through eee a AND TECHNIQUESSTEP 2 excn bead is normally placed in front of a slip stitch on a right-side row: at the position required, bring the yarn to the front of the wark, passing it between the needles, and slip the next stitch knitwise onto the right needle. | tes 1. On the row following a row with beads, make sure each bacvoueratearl STEPS ipena stitch that holds itn place. bead up the yarn in front 2. When working with small of the slip stitch, close beads, the slip stitches may be to the right needle. Take worked purhwise to avoid a ‘the yarn to the back twisted stitch that will not be of the work, passing it hidden by the bead between the needles, and continue working to the position for the next bead. Simple beaded pattern requires 2 multiple of 4 sts, plus 3. Row 1 (Ricis-sibe Ron) K1, *place bead, 3, repeat from * to last 2 sts, place bead, k'. Row 2° Row 3 « Row 4. Row 5 3, “place bead, k3, repeat from * 4o end. Rows 6 10 8 Repeat rows 2 to 4 Repeat these 8 rows. FINISHING TOUCHES 21Project 10 CHILD'S SWEATER This chunky sweater is styled very simply with drop shoulders and no armhole shaping, so you can concentrate on the intarsia rabbit moti The eyes, nose, and whiskers are embroidered after knitting is complete, and a pompon tail added to complete the picture. Sizes tofit chest Oa Lr Siies6 ail PaIGO MGT: actual measurement 2325 27% 29% in. 585-635 70 75 cm iength to shoulder 12)—134 1618 _in 3) 355 45.5 cm Sleeve seam 8 9% 1% 13 in, 2025 29 33cm Mareniats SiRDAR SNUGGLY CHUNKY (APPROX. 80 YDS/73 m PER 50 G BALL) Coton A bluebell (shade 354) 415 6 7] 50-g balls COLOR B white (shade 251) 1[1 11] CoLoR ¢ small amount of dark gray yarn for embroidery NEEDLES sizes 107 ( im) and 9. mm) Set of 4 double-pointed needles, or short circular needles, sizes 9 (5% mm) and 10% (6% mm) 2 stitch holders Te Choose a finer yamn for the embroidery, such as DK or worsted weight. Use it double for the swiss darning, to cover the stitches well, and use it singly for the whiskers so they are not too clumsy. PROJECTS AND TECHNIQUES Gauce Required gauge over stockinette is 14 sts and 19 rows 104 in. (10 cm), Using size 10/ (64 mm) needles, cast 0 20 sts and work 24 rows stockinette. Measure gauge (pages 50-51). If your gauge is tight, with more sts of rows t9 4 in, (10 cm), try another test- piece with larger needles: if your gauge is loose, with fewer sts or rows <0 4 in. (10.em), try again with smaller needles Asprevarions: k—krit; p—purl; rep—repeat; st(s)—stitchies); ine— increase; m1 tbl—maké 1 through back loop; k2tog—knit two together; SKP—slip one, knit one pass slip stitch over; p2tog—purl two together; p2tog thl—-purl 2 together thrauich backioops,. col, —color? in. inches; em—centimeters Notes 1, Instructions in brackets [] refer to the 3 laraer sizes ‘Where only one set of figures is given this refers to all sizes, 2. Sweater in photograph is 2nd sizeBACK Using size 9 (5% mm} needles and col.A cast on 42146, 50, 54] sts. Row 1 *K1, p1, rep from * to end. Rep this row 3{5, 5, 5] more times. 4[6, 6, 6] rib rows in all Change to size 10/ (6% mm) needles. * Row 1K to end Row 2 K1, p to last st, k1. Work all wrong side rows of stockinette in this way, with 1 selvage stat eathr ede, Repthese 2 rows, 13116, 20, 24] more times. 28[34,42, 50] rows of stockinette in all, ending with a p row. Place a marker at each end of last row. These mark the beginning of the armhole. Rep rows 1 and 2, 13[13, 14, 15] more times. 26126, 28, 30] rows in all from markers, ending with a p row. 54[60, 70, 80] stockinette rows in all Shape Shoulders Bind off 616, 7, 7] sts at beginning next 2 rows, knitwise on k row, purtwise on p row. Bind off 617, 7, 8] sts at beginning following 2 rows. 18120, 22, 24] sts remain, Slip these sts onto a stitch holder and cut yarn leaving a 6 in. (15 cr) tall FRONT Work as given for Back to ** Work in stockinette as given for Back for 06, 10, 14] rows, thus ending with a wrong-side row. (NOTE: for Ist size only, motif begins immediately after rib rows.) Rabbit Motif For full instructions on intarsia knitting, see pages 114-116. From a new ball of col.A, wind off about 4 yds (3.5 m) into a small ball. From the ball of col.B, wind off about 5 yds (4.5 m) into a small ball These balls will be used later when working the two ears Read right-side (k) rows (odd numbers) from right to left, and wrong-side (p) rows from left to right: Chart row 1 With ball of col.A already in use, k 10{12, 14, 16] sts, using large ball of colB, k 18 sts, using new ball of col, k 14[16, 18, 20] sts . ae | to end. Chart row 2 Using col, ki, p 13115, 17, 19], change to col.B, p 19 sts, change to col.A, sito, 12, 14), k1 Continue in this way, reading from successive chart rows, keeping motif correct. On chart row 15, under rabbit's front leg, carry col.A across back of 7 sts, twisting yarns twice (page 109) to prevent a long “float.” When chart row 28[28, 32, 36] is complete, place ‘a marker at each end of last row. On chart row 33, use ball of col.B already in work for sts of first ear, join in small ball of col.A for sts between ears and join in small ball of col.B for sts of second ear. Continue until chart row 45 is complete. Change to col.A and stackinette, beginning with a P row work 1[1, 5, 11] rows. 46(52, 60, 70] rows in all from last rib row. Shape Front Neck: First Side ‘Ast neck row K 17[18, 20, 21] sts, turn. Work on these sts only: 2nd neck row P2tog, p to last st, k1 3rd neck row K to last 2 sts, k2t09, Rep 2nd and 3rd neck rows 1{1, 2, 2] more times 1st and 2nd Sizes Only Work 2nd neck row once again. All Sizes 12[13, 14, 15) sts remain, Work 2[2, 3, 3] more rows, ending p row. 54/60, 70, 80] rows in all from last rib row, matching Back at beginning of shoulder shaping, Shape Shoulder Next row Bind off 6[6, 7, 7] sts knitwise, k to end. Following row P to end. Bind off remaining 6{7, 7, 8] sts knitwise. Cut yarn leaving a 12 in. (30 cm) tal ‘Shape Front Neck: Second Side With right side of Front facing, slip 8[10, 10, 12] sts at center onto a stitch holder and rejoin coLA at right of remaining 17118, 20, 21] sts. ‘1st neck row K to end 2nd neck row P to last 2 sts, p2tog tbl 3rd neck row SKP, k to end. Rep 2nd and 3rd neck rows, 1[1, 2, 2] more times. 1st and 2nd Sizes Only ‘Work 2nd neck row once again All Sizes12[13, 14, 15) sts remain. Work 3[3, 4, 4] more rows, ending k row. Shape Shoulder Next row Bind off 616, 7, 7] sts purhwise, p to end. Following row K to end. Bind off remaining 6[7, 7, 8] sts purhwise. Cut yarn leaving a 12 in. (30 cm) tail SLEEVE maxe 2 Using size 9 (5% mm) needles and col.A cast on 26126, 28, 28] sis. Row 1 *K1, p1, rep from * to end Rep this row 5 more times. 6 rib rows in all Change to size 10% (6% mm) needles. Shape Sleeve Inc row 1 K1, mt tbl, k to last st, mt tbl, kT 28(28, 30, 30} sts Work 5 rows stockinette, beginning and ending p row with selvage sts, as for Back. Rep these 6 rows, 315, 5, 6] more times. 34[38, 40, 42] sts. 24136, 36, 42] rows of stockinette in all from last rib row. Work inc row 1 again, 36140, 42, 44] sts. Continue in stockinette beginning p row until Sleeve measures 8[9%, 11%, 13] in/20125, 29, 33] cm in all from cast-on edge, or length required, ending with a p row. Bind off loosely. ASSEMBLY Run in all yarn ends from motif (page 116). Block pieces using water-spray method (page 41), Work embroidery on motif as shawn on chart. See pages 117-118 for swiss damning. Join shoulder seams with backstitch (pages 44-45) using ends left for this purpose. Fold one Sleeve in half lengthwise to find center of top edge. Match this point to shoulder seam. Match top comers of Sleeve to markers on side edges of Back and Front. Join armhole seam (page 44). Join top edge of other Sleeve to armhole in same way. Join side and sleeve seams using mattress stitch (pages 42-43), taking selvage sts into seams. CREW NECK With right side of work facing, using set of 4double-pointed needles or circular needle size 9 (6% mm) needles and col.A, begin at 18120, 22, 24] up and k ‘om first side of frant neck shaping; k 8[10, 10, 12] sts from holder at center front and pick up and k 10[10, 11, 11] sts from second side of front neck 9. 46(50, 54, 58] sts. working in the ‘See pages 74-76 fo round and pages 46-47 for picking up sts CharT FoR FRONT Round 1 *K1, pl, nd Rep this round 3 more p from mes, Change to a size 10/4 (6 mm) needle and bind off ink and p lished. Using col.B make a pompom (pages 119-120) ut 2 in. (5 cm) across, Sew in f rabbit's tai 1 t 1 t 1 Ht + Hee EEE 1 ee T tt t BE EEEEE EE i | Ht t | I vi I | [ H I ELL t t | i t Ww tt t v H T i vy, i t EEE eee aH | t { | t EERE iz T } I EEE EEE et TH EEEEEEEE t sins 1B sis Dam C Nie c2-ply, ply, 4ply Knitting with two colors inthe same row. Backstteh A firm sewing stitch. Binding off Fastoning off stitches so they do not unravel Block, blocking Treating a piece of knitting 10 set its shape, Boucle yarn A fancy yarn with a knobbly cffect. ‘Button band or button border A piece, knitted sideways or lengthwise, to which buttons are sev, Buttonhole band or buttonhole border A place, knitted sideways or lengthwise, with buttonholes worked as knitting proceeds, Cable needle A snort, double-pointed kitting needle for working cables, Cable A group of stitches crossed over another group of stitches. Casting on Making new stitches on aneedle. Chunky A heavy-weight yarn, Gieular needle A long, double pointed kitting needle with a flexible center Section, used for working in the round, or working large numbers of stitches. cuff The lower border ofa sleeve. Decreasing Working stitches together to reduce their number, Double-pointed needle A knitting needle with a point at each end. Duplicate stitch Another name for swiss daring, Dye lot number indicates the exact dye bath used to dye the yarn in question, not just the shade. Ease The dtference between the body ‘measurement and the measurement of a garment. Eyelet A small hole for a buttonhole or as part ofa lace stitch pattern. Fair Isle Knitting with two colors in the Fingering A fine-weight yarn (similar to 2-ply and 3-py) LOSSARY. Float The strand of yarn left atthe wrong side of the work when stranding Fully-feshioned shaping Shaping ‘emphasized by working decreases (or increases) two or more stitches in from the ledge of the work Garter stitch Formed by working all stitches as knit on every row, or all stitches {as purl on every rom. Gauge The number of stitches and rows to a given measurement. Hank A col of yarn. Increasing Making extra stitches. Intarsia The technique of “picture” kitting, Knitwise As when knitting a stitch Long stiteh A stitch made by wrapping the yarn twice around the needle. Mattress stitch The stitch used forthe Invisible seam. “Multiple The number of stitches required for one pattern repeat Needle gauge A small metal or plastic sheet with holes of different sizes, labeled with needle sizes, for checking the size of kitting needles. Pattern repeat The stitches and rows which must be repeated to form a stitch pattern. Pattern A stitch pattern or a set of, instructions for making a garment. Point protector A plastic device to protect ‘the point of a knitting needle, Purlwise As whven purling a stitch. Raglan A sleeve and armhole shaping that slopes from the armhole to the neck edge. Reverse stockinette stitch tockinette stitch worked with the purl side as the right side, Rib stitches or ribbing Various combinations of knit and purl stitches, arranged to form vertical ines Right and left (when describing parts of a garment) The terms that describe where ‘the gatment part will be when worn, 6. the right sleeve isthe sleeve worn on the Tight arm, not the sleeve on the right ‘when the garment is viewed from the front. Right side The side of the work that wil be outside the garment when worn, Ring marker A small split ring of metal OF laste sipped onto a stitch or onto a needle to mark a particular postion in the work. Seam The join made winen two pleces of knitting ate sewn together. Seed stitch A stitch pattern with a “dotted” appearance. Selvage stitch The first or last stitch of @ row worked in a different way to the ret Of the row, to make a decorative edge, oF 2 firm, neat edge for seaming, Setin sleeve A sleeve and armhole shaping where the armhole is curved to ‘take a curved sieeve head, Shaping Increasing or decreasing the hhumber of stitches to form the shape required Slip stitch A site sipped from one needle to the other without working into it, or {2 simple sewing stitch taking one strand from one edge and one strand from the other. Stith holder A device used for holding stitches temporarily. ‘Stockinette stitch Formed by working ‘one row of knit stitches, one row of ust stitches, and repeating these two rows. Stranding Carrying a color to a new position across the wrong side of the work. ‘Swiss daening Embroidering over individual Knitted stitches with anather color Tapestry needle A sewing needle with a blunt tip and a large eye ‘Twist A single stitch crossed over another stitch. Twisting Carrying a color across the wrong Side of several stitches in another color twisting the two colors at intervals Worsted A mediumsveight yarn (similar +0 double knitting), wrong side The side of the work that will be inside the garment when worn,‘Common Knitting Abbreviations ‘These are some ofthe most common knting abbreviations Note that diferent design sources use ‘upper and lower case letters for many ofthese abbreviations, alt aternate ‘beg besinning cable or cross BL czble to et (page 95) (CER cable to right (page 97) €C contrast color col color cm(s) centimeter () cont continue dels) decreasets, decreasing DK double knitting ddpn double pointed needs) ‘lownig 9.9F of gm gram 9 St garter sutch (page 25) ig) inches) ) increases, increasing ind include, incicing kt page 24) 1 keitinto back and front of same stich kf nit into front and back of same stich (beg¢ 62) k2tog knit 2 together (page 67) kkwtw knit winding yorn tice (page 101) UM left hand: UT left test (gage 98) ‘Common Symbols [MB make babe (page 103) MC main color mt make one ("if and knit” as page 91) rm tbl or mtb, make one ("ft and knit through back loop” as page 63) . pur (page 26) pat or patt pattern pF purl into back and font of same stitch fur into front and back of same stitch so. pas sip stitch over tog pur 2 together (page 68) pwtw pur vinding yarn twice (page 103) rem remaining rep repeat rev st st reverse stockinete stitch (page 28) ahaa fib rbbing rl) or mals) rounds) 15 right side (of work) ART ight twst (page 99) sk ship ‘Sk2togpss0 slp 1, Hn 2 together, se elt needle to it sipped stitch over new stitch and off ight nee, leaving one stitch on right needle (two sitches decreased) SKP (or 1, kt, sso) slp 1, knit 1, pass slip stitch over (2age 65) tip st sip stitch p65) soacets) ‘SSK sip 2 stiches knitwise, ane at atime to fight needle. Wrap yarn round right neecle ‘ond use let neecle to lift both sipped stitches ‘over yarn and off right need, leaving one slit on right needle sts) stitches) SUS slockinete stich (page 28) ‘tbl though back loops) tog together ws wrong side of work) ‘wy win yarn back, 2 to knit (page 102) ‘wyif with yarn in front, as if to purl (page 102), yb oF ybk yarn to the back between needles yd yard yf or yfwal yar to the font between needles Yy or yon yarn aver needle to make extra stitch (page 89) Sometimes stch patterrs ave shown in chart form instead of as written instuctions. A chart represents the appearance ofthe right side ofthe work {ands normally accompanied by its own key. The use of charts to present stitch patterns i an international sytem that bypasses any language problems. Each square on the chart represents one stich, and each line of squares represents ane raw. Raws ate numbered frm the bottom ofthe chaft othe top in the order in which they should be worked. Ode-numbered cas ae usualy ightside rows, numbered tothe ight of the chert ven-numbered rows are usally wrong/sde rows, numbered tothe left. Here a key to the most common chart symbols use. =F] setvage such T] 22xtinte sch kono pon im] coversestocknete stitch O] vemoee be) slo stitch knitise (wyid on 1s rs, wal on ws roms) [YF] emake one through back loop (rm tb) sake one (mm) 209 on 5 row, p2t0g on Ws row SKP on #5 rou, p29 th on Ws row IN YT DW [e 2tog on rs row, KZtog on ws row 2tog tl on rs row, K2teg tb on IY (@ | rake bobble te) [SI] rane est en SF] ltt en ES] cable stitches to ight SJ can) SBR SEZ] cate ats tote (cay (Other cables are represented in a sinilar way) ABBREVIATIONS & onesA abbreviations 34, 54,127 accessories 15 8 Baby Afghan 48-49 backstich seam 44-45 beads, knitting with 120 binding off 29-30 block pattern 71 blocking 40-41, 78 board 40 bobbins 15, 114 bobble dots 108 buttonholes 82-83 buttons 82 G cable 95-97, 106 casting on 20-23 charts for Fair isle 112 for intarsia 115, 125, symbols 127 checkers 48 chewrons 93 Child's Sweater 122-125 crochet hook method 57-58 D decreasing 65-70 double cable panel 100 E ease 53 jr isle 107-109 Isle Sweater 110-113, Family Sweater 72-73, fully fashioned shaping 71 G garter stitch 24-25, 34, 38-39 random rows 34 stripes 48 ‘gauge 50-52 4 honeycomb 100 1 in-the-round knitting 74-76, 80 increasing 62-85 intarsia 114-116, 122-125, J joining in 31 K ket stitch 24-25 se also garter stitch knotted lines 93 INDEX L lace patterns 89-93 Ladys Lay Vest 94-95 lifted eyelot 1, 92-93, little posts 48 little squares 37 tte tails 104) litte towers 93 long stitch waves 103 uM mattress stitch seam 42-43, 59 measurements 52-53 measuring work 55 mistakes, correcting 57-58 N rneckbandls 46, 81, needles 14 cable 15, 96 changing 55, 62 choosing 15 rcular 14, 74-75, 81 double-pointed 14,74, 76, 81 holding 19 protecting 14,15, 70, sizes 14,16, 50 ° order of knitting 55 Pp Paired decreases 67 pattern, keeping correct 71 pattern repeats 35, 107 patterns abbreviations 34, 54, 127 instructions 54 using 52-55 pocket 84, 87 Pompom 119-120 ouch see pocket purl stitch 26-27 binding off 30 R raindrops 100, rip stitches 35-37 binding off 30 broken 36, 72-73 Fidge stitch 34 ring marker 15,76 row count 15, $5, 106 s Scarf 38-29 seams 41-45, selvages 42, 59,108, 113, sizing a garment 52-53 slip knot 17-18 slip stitch bricks 103, stitch holders 15, 56, 84 stitch multiples 35 stitch and row seam 44 stitches: caterpillar 37 (garter 24-25, 34, 38-39 holding 56 knit 24-25 long 101 moss 37 picking up 46-47 purl 25-27 Feverse stockinette 28, 34 reversed 37 rib 35-37, 72-73 ridge 34 seed 37 slip 102 stockinette 28,34, 37 ‘textured 101-103 crinity 104 ‘wist 98-99, 100 uneven 25 stockinette stitch 28, 34,37 reverse 28, 34 storing: work 70 yarn 12 stranding 107-108 Striped Garter Scarf 38-38 stripes 38-38, 78-79, swiss darning 117-118 T tails, running in 42,45, 116 Tank Top 60-61 Toddler Top 86 twisting 109, 116 ‘wists 98-99, 100, u uneven rows 28 uneven stitches 25 unraveling method 58 Y yarn: choosing 16 lends see tale holding 19 Joining in 31 needles 15, 41,45, 116, 117 position 35, for seams 42 space-dyed 95 storing 12 substituting 51 types 10-11, 50 weights 11, 12 winding 11-12 yarn over 62, 82, 8-90, 92