2016

FORMULATION GUIDE

Where Amino Acids are the Essence of our Personal Care

 CONTENTS

SOLUTIONS from Nature

DISCOVER OUR 06 Amisafe LL-DS-22
NEW INGREDIENTS Facial wash paste

09 Amilite GCK-12H
Facial cleanser cream
Pearl body wash

12 Amisoft ECS-22W
Transparent shower gel

FOCUS ON AMIHOPE LL 16 Hand Cream

17 Loose Powder Foundation

18 BB Balm
Amino acids are called the source
of LIFE for good reasons. Our bodies’ 19 Cushion Cream
muscles, organs, SKIN and HAIR are
all made up of proteins, which are 20 Pearl Hair Shampoo
unique combinations of 20 types of
AMINO ACIDS.

To bring the blessings of the earth UPDATE ON 26 Lipgloss

and the very essence of life to GELATINIZATION AGENTS
more people, AJINOMOTO develops
amino acid based PERSONAL CARE
ingredients, FRIENDLY to people and
to earth.
FORMULATION FINDER 28

The aim of this formulary is to

INSPIRE you in your existing or future
product developments.
DISCOVER OUR NEW INGREDIENTS
 LPS-88

FACIAL WASH PASTE SENSORY TEST:

Evaluators rated sensory of LPS-88 formulation called “Q” (with AMISAFE) as “Good”, “Comparable”
or “Bad” in comparison to the control formulation called “P” (without AMISAFE).

Amisafe LL-DS-22 improves foamability and leaves silky smooth dry skin-feel.
Amisoft LS-11 (F) is used in a "ripening" process to get this facial cleansing paste. Water hardness of tap water: 60ppm as CaCO3
Amisoft also imparts moisturized feel to the skin as well as Ajidew NL-50.
n=6
Preferable
Part Ingredient (wt % ) Function Trade name / Supplier
Lather speed Comparable
A AMISOFT LS-11(F) 30,0 Foaming surfactant AJINOMOTO CO. INC

AMISOL CME / Kawaken Fine

Unpreferable
COCAMIDE MEA 1,0 Viscosity modifier
Chemicals Foam volume
STEARIC ACID 0,5 Foam quality improver NAA-180 / NOF

B AJIDEW NL-50 (50%) 1,0 Moisturizer AJINOMOTO CO. INC

Fine bubbles
PROPYLENE GLYCOL 12,0 Moisturizer

DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL 2,0 Moisturizer

Silky smooth
GLYCERIN 3,0 Moisturizer (dry skin feel)
WATER balance

C GLYCOL STEARATE 0,5 Viscosity modifier EMALEX EGS-A / NIHON EMULSION Total
D PEG-150 STEARATE 5,0 Thickener EMANON 3199V / KAO

WATER 15,0 0% 20% 40% 60% 80% 100%

Foam booster, Sensory Technical data sheet: 0125-0720E
E AMISAFE LL-DS-22 (10%) 0,5 AJINOMOTO CO. INC
improver

WATER 4,3

2% CITRIC ACID solution 0,2 pH Adjuster

PROCEDURE: Lather speed:

1. Mix part E at room temperature and form a gel.
2. Add part B to part A at room temperature and dissolve at 80°C. Evaluators prefered “Q”
3. Add part C with stirring. formulation (with Amisafe) as
4. Add part D at 70°C to part A and disperse.
5. Cool down to crystallizing temperature (40~45°C).
lather speed is quicker than
6. After cool down to 35°C, heat to crystallizing temperature with stirring (Ripening process). “P” formulation’s one
7. Add part E with stirring.
8. Cool down to 30°C.

TECHNICAL INFORMATION:
pH: 5.1 (1% aq.)
Stability: 0°C, 5°C, 25°C, 40°C, Cycle (-5°C<=>40°C) for one month.

6 7
 YSF-73-6

FACIAL CLEANSER CREAM

A facial wash formula which contains AMILITE GCK-12H as a primary surfactant. This
facial wash shows excellent foamability in spite of low active surfactant concentration.
Cold- crystalization process is possible.

Part Ingredient (wt % ) Function Trade name / Supplier

POLYOX WSR N-3000 /
A PEG-14M 0,5 Viscosity modifier
DOW CHEMICAL

WATER 9,5

HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH
B 2,0 Thickening polymer STRUCTURE XL / AKZO NOBEL
PHOSPHATE

WATER 20,0

C ACRYLATES COPOLYMER(30%) 2,0 Thickening polymer CARBOPOL AQUA SF-1 / LUBRIZOL

ACRYLATES/VINYL
NEODECANOATE 3,0 Thickening polymer ACULYN 38 / DOW CHEMICAL
CROSSPOLYMER(29%)

WATER 5,0

D AMILITE GCK-12H (30%) 33,0 Cleansing surfactant AJINOMOTO CO. INC

SODIUM SOFTAZOLINE LHL /

3,0 Co-surfactant
LAUROAMPHOACETATE(30%) KAWAKEN FINE CHEMICALS

SOFTAZOLINE LPB /
LAURAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE(30%) 6,0 Co-surfactant
KAWAKEN FINE CHEMICALS

PRESERVATIVE q.s.

WATER balance

TIPEQUE CR-50 /
E TITANIUM DIOXIDE 0,3 Opacifier
ISHIHARA SANGYO

THE LEVEL OF CITRIC ACID IS

F CITRIC ACID (20%) 1,0 pH adjuster
PRESENTED AS A ROUGH GUIDE

G FRAGRANCE q.s.

PROCEDURE:
1. Prepare part A, part B and part C in separate vessels.
2. Dissolve part D with stirring.
3. Add part A to part D with stirring.
4. Add part B to part A+D slowly with stirring.
5. Add part C and disperse well until uniform.
6. Add part E and disperse well until uniform.
7. Adjust pH with part F.
8. Add part G with gentle stirring.

TECHNICAL INFORMATION:
pH: 6.8 (1% aq.)
Stability: - 5, 25, 45°C, for 1 month.

8 9
DB-SW-15A-FA

PEARL BODY WASH Below graph shows foam volume of a body wash* using Amilite GCK-12H
vs other standard surfactants (dark blue bars). The light blue bars show the impact
of oil addition on each formulation.
This mild body wash is enriched with emollient oil. AMILITE GCK-12H provides a luxurious
foam and quick lathering even in the presence of oils. With the "Nourishing by washing
concept" even dry skins have excellent silky feeling after use. Mixer method, 1.0wt% body wash, 30°C
150

Part Ingredient (wt % ) Function Trade name / Supplier DB-KH7A

A
SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE
7,20
Primary cleansing
TEXPON N-70 / BASF
140 DB-KH7A+0.6% Petrolatum
(70%) surfactant

Foam volume (ml)

Foam booster,
AMILITE GCK-12H (30%) 10,00 AJINOMOTO CO. INC
texturizer 130

SODIUM COCOYL ISETHIONATE 3,30 Co-surfactant HOSTAPON SCI 85 G / CLARIANT

GLYCERINE 1,00 Moisturizer

120
SODIUM CHLORIDE 1,00 Viscosity modifier

PRESERVATIVE q.s.
110
WATER balance

HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH
B 5,00 Thickening polymer STRUCTURE XL / AKZO
PHOSPHATE
100
C PETROLATUM 5,00 Emollient SUN WHITE P-200 / NIKKO RICA GCK-12H SLES SCI LAA C12FA CAPB APG MEA

COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE Technical data sheet: 0115-1390E & 0115-1400E

D 17,00 Co-surfactant DEHYTON K / BASF
(30%)

THE LEVEL OF CITRIC ACID IS

E CITRIC ACID (20% aq.) 0,40 pH adjustment
PRESENTED AS A ROUGH GUIDE. *Body wash DB-KH7A
F FRAGRANCE q.s. Test Formulations (wt % )
Sodium laureth sulfate (70%) 7,2

Cocamidopropyl betaine 17,0

(30%)
PROCEDURE: Foaming surfactant 3.0 active
1. Dissolve part A at 70 ~ 80°C with stirring. Foaming surfactant
Sodium cocoyl isethionate 3,3
2. Add part B to part A and mix well.
3. Add part C with stirring. Glycerin 1,0 AMILITE® G
4. A fter confirmation of dissolution, add part D with stirring. SLES
Glycol distearate 1,0 SCI Sodium cocoyl isethionate
5. C ool down to 45°C, then add part E to adjust the pH to 7.0.
LAA Sodium lauroamphoacetate
6. Add part F and cool down to room temperature with stirring. Laureth-4 1,0
C12FA Sodium Laurate
PPG-7 1,0 CAPB
APG Decyl glucoside
Sodium chloride 0,8
MEA cocamide MEA
TECHNICAL INFORMATION: Thickening polymers 1,5
pH: 7,0 Sodium hydroxide (10% aq.) to pH6.6
Viscosity: 2  5,000~36,000mPa·s (B-type, Rotor No.4, 12rpm,
Water balance
30sec., 25°C).
Total (%) 100,0
Stability: 0°C, 25°C, 45°C, cycle (-5<=>40°C) 1 month.

10 11
KNS-054-21W-6

TRANSPARENT SHOWER GEL Below graph shows foam volume (blue bars) and foam stability ( ) of
a shampoo* containing Amisoft ECS-22W vs the same formulation using
other standard anionic surfactants.
A viscous, sulfate-free, DEA-free clear shower gel. AMISOFT ECS-22W produces rich
foam and creamy lather even at weakly acidic pH range. Amisoft can be used as a
5% as is, 35°C, tap water (water hardness: 60ppm as CaCO3)
primary surfactant and is easy to thicken.
310 90

Part Ingredient (wt % ) Function Trade name / Supplier

Primary foaming 300
A AMISOFT ECS-22W (30%) 20,0 AJINOMOTO CO. INC 80

Foam stability (%)

surfactant

Foam volume (ml)

After 5 minutes
Secondary foaming 290
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (30%) 15,0 DEHYTON K / BASF
surfactant 70
Additional foaming 280
Sodium Lauroamphoacetate (32%) 4,7 MIRANOL ULTRA L-32 / SOLVAY - RHODIA
surfactant
60
SUNSOFT NO.760 / TAIYO KAGAKU
Glyceryl Caprate 2,0 Viscosity modifier 270
KOGYO

Glycerin 2,0 Moisturizer 50

260
Sodium Chloride 0,3 Viscosity modifier

PEG-150 Distearate 0,4 Thickening polymer EMANON 3299V / KAO 250 40

Water balance ECS-22W SAR ISE CMT SLES

Preservatives q.s.

B Fragrance q.s. Sulfate-free formulation

THE LEVEL OF CITRIC ACID IS PRESENTED Technical data sheet: 0101-4110E
C Citric Acid (20% aq.) 4,7 pH adjustment
AS A ROUGH GUIDE.

PROCEDURE: *Shampoo
Test Formulas (wt % )
1. Mix part A until homogeneous with stirring at 70~80°C.
2. Cool down to 50°C with stirring. Anionic surfactants 6,0 active
3. Add part B.
Cocamidopropyl betaine (30%) 15,0
 djust pH to 5.8 ~ 6.0 by part C and cool down to r.t. with stirring.
4. A
Sodium lauroamphoacetate (32%) 4,7
Anionics surfactants
Glyceryl caprate 2,0
TECHNICAL INFORMATION: AMISOFT ECS-22W
pH: 5,8 Sodium chloride 0,5 SAR: Sodium lauroyl sarcosine
Viscosity: 4  ,000 ~ 8,000 mPa·s (B-type, Rotor No.3 12rpm, 30sec., 25°C). PEG-150 distearate 1,0
ISE: Sodium cocoyl isethionate
Stability: 2
 5°C, 45°C, cycle(-5<=>40°C) 1 month. CMT: Sodium cocoyl methyl taurate
Citric acid pH 5.8 SLES
Water balance

Preservatives q.s.

Total (%) 100,0

METHOD:

1
2

1. 550 mL beaker Stir at around 3,400 rpm (the lowest Foam volume (mL)
2. Dilute a shampoo 2~5 g speed of the mixer) for 10 sec.
with water (35°C) to 100 g

12 13
FOCUS ON AMIHOPE LL
 NEH-3 LP-0401-3

HAND CREAM LOOSE POWDER FOUNDATION

This powder foundation provides excellent coverage without sacrificing natural
In this hand cream formulation AMIHOPE LL improves absorbency of the cream as finish. AMIHOPE LL imparts several features to it: smooth spreadability, good
well as silky smooth skinfeel. Amisoft HS-11P is used as a co-emulsifier at a very low adhesion, excellent coverage, non-drying, matte, not shimmering, natural finish.
percentage to get a very stable formulation. On top, AMIHOPE LL reduces drying feel of powders. Eldew SL-205 and
Eldew PS-203R are used for their emollience properties. This formulation
Part Ingredient (wt % ) Function Trade name / Supplier containing a lot of powders, Eldew SL-205 is used to improve their dispersability.
MORESCOWHITE P70 /
A MINERAL OIL 13,0 Emollient MORESCO Part Ingredient (wt % ) Trade name / Supplier
REFINED PARAFFIN WAX / A TALC, DIMETHICONE/METHICONE COPOLYMER 18,00 TALC DN-SH / DAI NIHON KASEI
PARAFFIN 8,0 Emollient NIKKO RIKA
MICA, DIMETHICONE/METHICONE COPOLYMER 54,90 SI01-2 MICA No.5500 / DAITO KASEI
HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL 1,0 Emollient CASTOR WAX A / NOF
TITANIUM DIOXIDE 18,00 CR-50 / ISHIHARA SANGYO
STEARYL ALCOHOL 2,0 Emollient
TITANIUM DIOXIDE, ALUMINUM STEARATE 3,00 MT-100Z / TAYCA
STEARETH-2 6,0 Emulsifier EMALEX 602 / NIHON EMULSION
IRON OXIDE, DIMETHICONE/METHICONE COPOLYMER (Red) 0,60 SI01-2 TALLOX LLXLO / DAI NIHON KASEI
EMALEX 400di-S / NIHON
PEG-8 DISTEARATE 1,2 Emulsifier EMULSION IRON OXIDE, DIMETHICONE/METHICONE COPOLYMER (Yellow) 1,50 SI01-2 TALLOX R-516L / DAI NIHON KASEI
STEARETH-8 0,4 Emulsifier EMALEX 608 / NIHON EMULSION IRON OXIDE, DIMETHICONE/METHICONE COPOLYMER (Black) 0,30 SI01-2 TALLOX BL-100 / DAI NIHON KASEI
CETETH-15 0,3 Emulsifier EMALEX 115 / NIHON EMULSION SILICA 0,50 SUNSPHERE H-51 / ASAHI GLASS
ZINC STEARATE 0,2 Texture improver ZINC STEARATE / NOF AMIHOPE LL 2,00 AJINOMOTO CO. INC
AMIHOPE LL 0,5 Texture improver AJINOMOTO CO. INC METHYLPARABEN 0,20
B AMISOFT HS-11P 0,1 Co Emulsifier AJINOMOTO CO. INC B TRIETHYLHEXANOIN 0,59 NIKKOL TRIFAT S-308 / NIKKO CHEMICALS
PRESERVATIVE q.s. ELDEW PS-203R 0,20 AJINOMOTO CO. INC
WATER balance ELDEW SL-205 0,20 AJINOMOTO CO. INC

TOCOPHEROL 0,01
PROCEDURE:
1. Dissolve and disperse part A with stirring at 80°C. PROCEDURE:
2. Add part B at 80°C to part A slowly with stirring. 1. Weigh all ingredients of part A and mill them.
3. Cool down to room temperature with stirring. 2. Mix part B with heating to 40°C.
3. Add part B to Part A and mill again.

TECHNICAL INFORMATION: IN-USE TEST:

pH: 6,5 A silicon-treated talc was added to a commercial talc-free loose powder foundation (Foundation A):
Viscosity: 3  7,500 - 50,000 mPa.s (B type, rotor N°.4, 12rpm, 30sec., 25°C). This pre-mix is called Foundation B: 40wt% of talc added to 60% of foundation.
Stability: 5
 0°C, 25°C, -5°C, Cycle (-5°C<=>40°C) for one month. Then 2wt% of Amihope LL were added to Foundation B to get Foundation C.
The foundations were applied to artificial leather (Idemitsu Technofine) by a standardized manner and
observed by a video microscope.
Ingredients: mica, titanium dioxide, emollients (oils), antioxidant, preservatives, pigments (ion dioxides etc.).

Figure 1 - Talc-free product Figure 2 - Foundation B Figure 3 - Foundation C

(Foundation A) (Silicone-treated talc added) (2% AMIHOPE LL added)

Talc imparted soft, smooth touch to the spreading feel, and dry, light feel on the skin. With additional 2wt%
AMIHOPE LL, natural sheer finish, non-drying feel and coverage were improved. Evaluation on the artificial
leather also showed sheer, non-cakey finish (Figure 3, left part) and even film over furrows and ridges
(Figure 3, right part).

16 17
ACAC-BB-08 CUSHION CREAM

BB BALM CUSHION CREAM

The lightweight water foundation is inspired from the Korean concept of Cushion
A highly concealing foundation formulation using our pseudo-ceramide ingredient
Cream. Eldew SL-205 helps dispersing pigments without sticky effect. Amihope LL
Eldew PS-203R. Amihope LL, our functional powder and our amino acid derived
gives silky feeling during application, which is really easy thanks to the pad.
Gelatinization Agent GP-1 provide good spreadability, turning the smooth oil gel into
powder, leaving a non-oily silky soft feel on the skin.
Part Ingredient (wt % ) Trade name / Supplier
A Aqua q.s.
Part Ingredient (wt % ) Function Trade name / Supplier Sclerotium Gum 0,30 ACTIGUM VSX 20 / CARGILL
TRIETHYLHEXANOIN 38.92 Emollient NIKKOL TRIFAT S-308 / Carrageenan 0,30 SATIAGUM CD / CARGILL
A NIKKO CHEMICALS
Acrylates/Ethylhexyl Acrylate Copolymer (and) Water
CYCLOPENTASILOXANE 5.20 Emollient SILICONE STV-5 / 5,00 KOBOGUARD 50 AMP / KOBO
(and) Aminomethyl Propanol
DOW CORNING
B METHYL GLUCOSE SESQUISTEARATE 1,00 GLUCATE SS / LUBRIZOL
TITANIUM DIOXIDE 7.42 UV filter TTO-D2 /
ISHIHARA SANGYO PEG-20 METHYL GLUCOSE 3,00 GLUCAMATE SSE-20 / LUBRIZOL
SILICA, METHICONE 4.67 Texturizer SI-5 SILDEX H-52 / Eldew SL-205 0,20 AJINOMOTO CO. INC
DAITO KASEI
Isopropyl Isostearate 6,00 SCHERCEMOL 318 / LUBRIZOL
MICA, DEA-C8-18 1.85 Extender PF-5 MICA N°.5500 /
PERFLUOROALKYLETHYL PHOSPHATE DAITO KASEI Phenyltrimethicone 2,00 BRB PTM 20 / BRB
POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOXANE 5.93 Texturizer TOSPEARL 2000B / Trimethylsiloxysilicate (and) Dimethicone 2,50 BRB TMS 30D / BRB
MOMENTIVE
Titanium Dioxide (and) Acrylates Copolymer (and)
AMIHOPE LL 1.00 Sensory improver AJINOMOTO CO. INC Hydrated Silica (and) Algin (And) Aluminum Hydroxide 6,00 COMPOSITE ACT 50 / KOBO

ELDEW PS-203R 0.50 Pseudo-ceramide AJINOMOTO CO. INC Amihope LL 1,00 AJINOMOTO CO. INC
B PIGMENT DISPERSION (WHITE) 10.72 Pigment DIDW 50 DF / KOBO Tocopherol 0,10 DL-ALPHA TOCOPHEROL / EISAI
PIGMENT DISPERSION (YELLOW) 1.03 Pigment DIDW 45 DYF / KOBO Iron Oxides [C.I. 77492] (and) Water (and) Glycerin (and)
C 3,50 GLW45GYSP / KOBO
Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Cellulose Gum
PIGMENT DISPERSION (RED) 0.33 Pigment DIDW 40 DRF / KOBO
Iron Oxides [C.I. 77492] (and) Water (and) Glycerin (and)
PIGMENT DISPERSION (BLACK) 0.17 Pigment DIDW 55 DBF / KOBO 0,50 GLW55GRSP / KOBO
Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Cellulose Gum
C OCTYLDODECANOL 18.75 Solubilizer for GP-1 EUTANOL G / BASF Iron Oxides [C.I. 77499] (and) Water (and) Glycerin (and) 0,25 GLW60GBSP / KOBO
Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Cellulose Gum
GELATINIZATION AGENT GP-1 3.50 Oil gelling agent AJINOMOTO CO. INC
Titanium Dioxide (and) Water (and) Glycerin (and) 6,00 GLW75PFSP / KOBO
Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Cellulose Gum
PROCEDURE: D Preservatives 1,00
1. Mix part B until uniform at room temperature.
Polymethylsilsesquioxane (and) Alumina 1,50 MSP-AK06/ KOBO
2. Mix part A at room temperature.
3. Dissolve part C at 120°C with stirring. Fragrance 0,20 PARFUM ORANGE BLOSSOM / IFF
4. Heat part A around 80 - 90°C.
Mica (and) Titanium dioxide (and) iron oxides (C.J.77491) 0,12 KTZ SUNBURST GOLD/ KOBO
5. Add part B to part A while heating around 80-90°C.
6. Add part C to mixer and mix at 80°C.
7. Pour into a jar quickly. Cool down to room temperature without mixing. PROCEDURE:
1. Heat water and Koboduard 50AMP up to 70-75°C.
TECHNICAL INFORMATION: 2. Add Actigum VSX20 and Satiagum CD while stirring, until complete gel formation.
Stability: 1
 , 25, 45°C, Cycle (-5 n<=>40°C), for 3 months. 3. Heat phase B at 70-75°C
 t 70-75°C under stirring, poor phase B in Phase A. Homogenised for 2 minutes (Ultra-Turrax, 7200rpm).
4. A
Cool it down to 40°C.
5. Prepare phase C and add it to previous one (40°C). Stir until homogeneous colour is obtained.
6. Add phase D and then phase E. Stir.
7. Adjust pH at 5.6-5.8.After 24h, pH will increase.

TECHNICAL INFORMATION:
pH: 6.1-6.3
Viscosity: 6 80 cPs (RVT mobile SC4-21, speed 50).
Stability: 1
 month at 50°C / 3 months at 40°C.

18 4 5 19
NSPX-0019

PEARL HAIR SHAMPOO This mild shampoo is suitable for natural concept: thanks to the use of recrystallized
Amihope LL concentrate, a natural pearlescent effect is obtained. In addition,
AMIHOPE LL improves conditioning property of the shampoo. Amisoft CS-22 is used
Preparation of recrystallized Amihope LL concentrate: as a natural cleansing surfactant.
When AMIHOPE LL is precipitated in a surfactant solution the particle size tends to be
smaller and the dispersing the LL in a liquid cleansing formulation is easier.
This AMIHOPE LL concentrate is stable, suitable as a premix for various preparations. Part Ingredient (wt %) Function Trade name / Supplier
A XANTHAN GUM 1,00 Thickening polymer KELTROL CGT / CP KELCO

B WATER 49,00

LL Concentrate AMIHOPE LL 12.5 C AMISOFT CS-22 (25%) 10,00 Cleansing surfactant AJINOMOTO CO. INC
(wt %)
NaOH 2.7 COCO-GLUCOSIDE (52%) 6,00 Co-surfactant PLANTACARE 818UP / BASF
AMIHOPE LL 12,5 Water 34.8
GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE 2,00 Foam booster SUNSOFT 700-P2 / TAIYO KAGAKU
Lauryl glucoside (50%) 15,0
ARGININE 0,30 Foam booster AJINOMOTO CO. INC
Decyl glucoside (50%) 15,0
WATER balance
Sodium hydroxide 2,7
AMIHOPE LL 0,63 Conditioning / peralizing agent AJINOMOTO CO. INC
Citric acid (30% aq.) 4,0 D
& foam booster
Water to 100.0 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0,14 Neutralizer for LL

Stir and dissolve WATER 2,43

at room
E LAURYL GLUCOSIDE (50%) 0,75 Dispersing agent PLANTACARE 1200UP / BASF
temperature
DECYL GLUCOSIDE (50%) 0,75 Dispersing agent PLANTACARE 2000UP / BASF

F CITRIC ACID (30% AQ.) 1,00 pH adjuster

Lauryl glucoside (50%)*A 15.0 CITRIC ACID (30% AQ.) 2,00 pH adjuster THE LEVEL OF CITRIC ACID IS PRESENTED
G
Decyl glucoside (50%)*B 15.0 AS A ROUGH GUIDE.

Clear
*AB PLANTACARE 1200up Cognis
* PLANTACARE 2000up Cognis
PROCEDURE:
Stir and dissolve
1. Thoroughly disperse part A in part B at room temperature.
at room
temperature
2. Add part C to part A and stir until homogeneous at room temperature.
3. In a separate vessel mix part D and stir until it becomes clear.
Avoid bubble formation. 4. Add part E to part D with gentle stirring. 3+4+5 = recrystallized Amihope LL
Remove the entangled bubble before the next step. 5. While agitating part D add part F and stir until homogeneous
concentrate preparation
Cf. The adding rate: 6. Add part D to part A with stirring.
0.1g / sec (100g scale) 7. Adjust the pH to 5.4 with part G.
Citric acid (30% aq.) 20.0
Precipitation

*1 The condition of stirring depends on the vessel size or the

impeller shape. Particle size of AMIHOPE LL tends to be TECHNICAL INFORMATION:
Stir at room smaller when being precipitated at lower temperature
temperature*1*2 and with stronger stirring. pH: 5,4
* S tir more gently once the formulation becomes
2
Viscosity: 2,000 - 3,000 mPa.s (B type, rotor No.3, 30rpm, 30sec., 25°C).
thickened in order to avoid bubble entanglement.
Stability: 50°C, 40°C, 25°C, 0°C, -5°C, Cycle for a month.

Recrystallized AMIHOPE LL
concentrate
Technical data sheet: 0501-0261E

20 21
NSPX-0019

PEARL HAIR SHAMPOO

Below pictures show result of the formulation NSPX-0019 using Amihope LL SENSORY TEST RESULT: Shampoo with AMIHOPE LL is Better Equal Worse
(left bottle and drop) and the result without Amihope LL (right bottle and drop): n=11
Foam quality

During Foam speed

washing
Foam volume

Finger through

Hair softness
During
rinsing Hair smoothness

Detangling
After Technical data sheet: 0501-0191E
rinsing Wet hair smoothness

SENSORY TEST:
Preference
By addition of AMIHOPE LL to a hair shampoo formulation using recrystallized Amihope LL concentrate,
foamability and hair-feel during washing and rinsing are improved.

The shampoo with AMIHOPE LL was perceived as better performing in terms

Without AMIHOPE LL With AMIHOPE LL of foamability, finger-through during washing, hair smoothness and detangling
Lauryl glucoside (50%) 9,0 9,0
property during rinse.
AMISOFT CS-22 (25%) 20,0 20,0

Citric acid (30% aq.) 2,7 2,7

Sodium lauryl sulfoacetate 4,0 4,0

AMISAFE AL-01 0,2 0,2

Magnesium chloride 1,5 1,5

Glyceryl caprate 3,0 3,0

A: Control 5,0 -

B: AMIHOPE LL concentrate - 5,0

Water to 100.0 to 100.0

AMIHOPE LL conc. (wt%) 0,000 0,625

B:
A: Control
LL Concentrate
AMIHOPE LL - 12,5

Lauryl glucoside (50%) 15,0 15,0

Decyl glucoside (50%) 15,0 15,0

Sodium hydroxide 2,7 2,7

Citric acid (30% aq.) 4,0 4,0

Water to 100.0 to 100.0

Technical data sheet: 0501-0261E

22 23
UPDATE ON GELATINIZATION AGENTS
LGMS-B10GP

LIPGLOSS Below formulation is a great example showing how our gelatinization agents can reduce stringy
effect. Indeed EB-21/GP-1 can increase the viscosity of viscous oils such as hydrogenated
polyisobutene.
GELATINIZATION AGENTS:
To get gelatinization agents, we add an alkyl long chain to glutamic acid. The alkyl chain of Hydrogenated polyisobutene: Octyldodecanol = 80 : 20
60
EB-21 is branched and the one of GP-1 is linear. On top, each gelatinization agent has 3 amide
functions which can form hydrogen bonds. 50

Viscosity (Pa s)
40
O
30
H2N OH
* Viscosity of
20
commercial
lip gloss
10

0
0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6
O OH Concentration of EB-21, GP-1 (wt%)
EB-21 GP-1
L-Glutamic acid Not stringy while lifting up but good spreadability during rubbing

GP-1 is used in this lipgloss formulation to reduce stringy effect of hydrogenated

H H polyisobutene. On top, it enables excellent transparency and non-sticky feeling on the
N * N N * N lips. Eldew PS-203R, our ceramide-like ingredient, is used as a damage prevention and
H H
damage repair ingredient.

N N Part Ingredient (wt % ) Trade name / Supplier

O H O H
A GP-1 0,4 AJINOMOTO CO. INC
EB-21 GP-1
CTFA INCI Name: Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide CTFA INCI Name: Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide OCTYLDODECANOL 10,0 RISONOL 20SP / KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO

B TRIETHYLHEXANOIN 25,0 NIKKOL TRIFAT S-308 / NIKKO CHEMICALS

DIISOSTEARYL MALATE 10,0 COSMOL 222S / NISSHIN OILLIO

You can get really innovative products thanks to the kind of texture obtained with our gelling
ELDEW PS-203R 8,0 AJINOMOTO CO. INC
agents. It is possible to get a jelly (as on the right hand picture) or a hard gel but it is not
possible to get a viscous oil (as on the left hand picture). TOCOPHEROL q.s.

PRESERVATIVE q.s.
NOT ACHIEVABLE ACHIEVABLE
C HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE balance PARLEAM V / NOF

HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE 20,0 PARLEAM HV / NOF

D PEARLESCENT PIGMENT q.s. REFLECKS RAYS OF RED / BASF

PROCEDURE:
1. Dissolve part A at 92°C with stirring.
2. Add part B to part A at 75°C, and mix well.
3. Add part C to part A at 70°C, and mix well.
4. Add part D to part A at 70°C, and mix well.
Viscous Oil, Oil gel 5. Cool down to room temperature.
flowable
TECHNICAL INFORMATION:
Texture that cannot be achieved Achievable textures by
by gelatinization agents gelatinization agents Stability: 5
 °C, 25°C, 40°C, Cycle (-5<=>40°C) for 1 month.

26 27
 Formulation

FORMULATION FINDER
Product category Product Application Page
ref

Loose Powder
LP-0401-3 17
Foundation
Formulation
Product category Product Application Page
ref
Eldew PS-203R ACAC-BB-08 BB Balm 18
Facial Cleanser
YSF-73-6 09
Cream
Amilite GCK-12H
Transparent
LGMS-B10GP 26
Lipgloss
DB-SW-15A-FA Pearl Body Wash 10 EMOLLIENT

Loose Powder
LP-0401-3 17
Foundation
Transparent
Amisoft ECS-22W KNS-054-21W-6 12 Eldew SL-205
Shower Gel

Cushion Cushion
19
Cream Cream
Pearl Hair
ANIONIC SURFACANT Amisoft CS-22 NSPX-0019 20
Shampoo

NEH-3 Hand Cream 16

Amisoft HS-11P NEH-3 Hand Cream 16

Loose Powder
LP-0401-3 17
Foundation
Facial Wash
Amisoft LS-11(F) LPS-88 06
Paste

FUNCTIONAL POWDER Amihope LL ACAC-BB-08 BB Balm 18

Facial Wash
Ajidew NL-50 LPS-88 06
Paste
HUMECTANT
Cushion Cushion
19
Cream Cream
Facial Wash
Amisfe LL-DS-22 LPS-88 06
Paste

Pearl Hair
NSPX-0019 20
Shampoo

ACAC-BB-08 BB Balm 18
GELATINIZATION AGENTS GP-1

Transparent
LGMS-B10GP 26
Lipgloss

Pearl Hair
AMINO ACID L-Arginince C NSPX-0019 20
Shampoo

28 29
 NOTES CONTACT

S.A. Ajinomoto OmniChem N.V.

Industrial Research Park Fleming

B-1348 Louvain-la-Neuve
Belgium

Phone : +32 10 48 32 22
Fax: +32 10 45 62 27

ASD-sales-SC@aoc.ajinomoto.com

www.ulprospector.com

Note: The information is provided based upon our technical data and present knowledge. However, we make no warranties, expressed or
implied, and assume no liabilities in connection with any use of the information with respect to specific property, safety and suitability for a
specific application. It is also not guaranteed that use of the information does not fall within the scope of any intellectual property rights.

30 31