Section IV

Beauty Aids

45
46 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

After Bath SDrav Moisturizer

This formulation demonstrates how easy it is to use CreamJel
to produce creamy emulsions with difficult ingredients. This
white lotion is an excellent moisturizer with a luxurious,
silky feel and may be dyed and fragranced to suit any needs.
Material: Wt$
1 Volatile Silicone VS-7158 1.50
2 Isopropyl Palmitate 3.70
3 Myristyi Myristate 1.10
4 CreamJel 14.50
5 DI H20 78.20
6 Germaben I1 1.00
7 Fragrance q.s.

Procedure:
1.0 Combine components 1,2, and 3 in a suitable mixing vessel.
Heat to 35-40C until the wax melts.
2.0 Place component 4 in a suitable mixing vessel. With rapid
high shear mixing slowly add Step 1 and continue mixing
until a smooth cream.
3.0 With continued high shear rapid mixing slowly add component
5 to step 2 .
4.0 When a uniform, smooth lotion mix in component 6 followed
by component 7 using low shear mixing.
Formulation 93105-GE

Clear Bodv Moisturizer

This formulation produces an excellent moisturizer which
illustrates many benefits of incorporating Lubrajel into form-
ulations. The moisturization is imparted by the addition of
Lubrajel CG, while the smooth feel is due to the use of Lubrajel
Oil. This formulation also illustrates how easy it is to form-
ulate with the different grades of Lubrajel.
Material : Wt%
1 Deionized Water 81.0
2 Sodium Carboxymethylcellulose type 7H4F 1.0
3 Lubrajel CG 15.0
4 Lubrajel Oil 2.0
5 Germaben I1 1.0
Procedure:
1.0 Place component 1 into a suitable mixing vessel. With rapid
high shear mixing disperse component 2 . Continue mixing
until completely hydrolyzed.
2.0 Switch to paddle blade mixing and add components 3 , 4 and 5.
Mix until homogeneous
Formulation No. 95003-E
SOURCE: Guardian Laboratories: Suggested Formulations
 Beauty Aids 47

Anti-Aqina Cream
Alpha Hydroxy Acids oil-in-water cream containing Bentone Gel
TN and Bentone LT rheological additives.
Inqredients: wt%
Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG 100 Stearate 6.00
Cetearyl Alcohol 2.00
Jojoba Oil 4.00
Sunflower Seed Oil 3.00
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 5.00
Glycerine USP, Palm Based 4.00
Vitamin E Acetate concentrate 2.00
Almond Protein Partial Hydrolysate 2.50
Mixed Fruit Extracts 4.00
Bentone Gel TN 3.00
Bentone LT (3% dispersion in water) 13.36
Perfume 0.20
Methyldibromoglutaronitrile and Dipropylene Glycol 0.20
Demineralized Water Bal to 100%
Bentone LT dispersion:
Bentone LT 3.00
Deionized Water 97.00

Method of Manufacture:
1. Thoroughly disperse the Bentone Gel TN in the C12-15 Alkyl
Benzoate, Jojoba Oil and Sunflower Seed Oil, by warming to 40C
and stirring until uniform. Add the remaining components of
the oil phase (GMS, Cetearyl Alcohol, and Vitamin E Acetate)
and heat to 75-80C.
2. Heat the aqueous phase (Glycerine, Protein, Bentone LT disper-
sion and water) to 75-8OC.
3. Using high shear mixing, add the two phases together and
continue to homogenize.
4. At 45-50C transfer to a propeller stirrer and cool to 20C.
5. Add the Mixed Fruit Acids and stir well. Add the perfume and
preservative.
Bentone LT Dispersion:
1. Prepare a 3% dispersion of Bentone LT additive in deionized
water using a rotor-stator or similar high-shear mixer
(e.g. Silverson).
Start the mixer in the water, steadily add the Bentone LT
to the vortex and stir until completely dispersed (15-20
mins).
2. Allow the suspension to stand to let any entrapped air
escape.
SOURCE: Rheox, Inc.: Elementis Specialties: Suggested Formula
48 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Beta Hvdroxv Moisturizins Clear Gel

A clear sprayable gel containing Lip0 CD-SA which is a water
soluble source of Beta Hydroxy Acid-Salicylic Acid. This gel
also contains the moisturizing ingredients Unimoist U-125 and
Hylucare .
Seuuence: Raw Material/INCI Name: Wt%
1 Deionized Water 76.55
1 Uniphen P-23 0.30
1 Liponic EG-l/Glycereth-26 2.50
2 Viacarin SD 389/Carageenan 0.50
3 Lip0 CD-SA 12.50
4 Unimoist U-125 2.00
5 Deionized Water 1.00
5 Unicide U-l3/Imidazolidinyl Urea 0.25
6 Hylucare, 1% S o l n/Water (and] Hyaluronic Acid 4.00
7 Sodium Chloride 25% Sol'n) 0.40
8 Triethanolamine, 99% *QS
*To adjust pH
Procedure:
1. Heat Sequence #1 to 75C on overhead mixer at medium/high
speed.
2. Slowly add Sequence # 2 to Sequence #1 and mix until comp-
letely hydrated.
3. Cool batch to 40C and add Sequence #3 at medium/low speed.
4. Add Sequence #4 to batch at mediurn/low speed and cool to 35C
5. Add premixed Sequence #5 to batch at medium/low speed and
cool to 25C.
6. At 25C, add Sequence #6 and Sequence #7 to batch in order
of addition at rnedium/low speed.
7. Adjust pH to 3.8-4.2 using Sequence #8.
Specifications:
pH: 4.0+-0.2
Viscosity: Brookfield LVT, spindle T-C @ 3.0 rpm =
17,700 cpst-lO%
SOURCE: Lip0 Chemicals Inc.: Formula No. 9 6 2
 Beauty Aids 49

Cleansing Milk

Inqredients/CTFA Name: Wt%

A-A1 Arlacel 165/Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG 100 Stearate 1.50
Schercemol NGDC/Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprate 20.00
B-B1 Deionized Water 37.00
Propylene Glycol 3.00
Carbopol 941 2% Aq. Sln. 25.00
B2 Deionized Water 10.00
Keltrol/Xanthan Gum 0.20
83 Triethanolamine 0.50
B4 Schercomid AME-lOO/Acetamide MEA 1.50
C- Germaben I1 1.00
D- Fragrance 0.30
E- Cucumber Extract q.s.

Procedure:
Phase B:
In the main beaker, disperse B1 at 75C.
Disperse B2 in a separate beaker at ambient temperature.
Add B2 to B1.
Add B3 to the main beaker at 75C.
Add B4 to the main beaker at 75C.
Phase A:
Blend A together at 75C.
Add Phase A to Phase B at 75C with continuous mixing until a
homogeneous emulsion is formed (at least 15 minutes at 75C).
Cool batch to 60C and add Phase C.
Continue to cool batch to 30C and add fragrance.
Formulation L-213-1

Chapstick Prototme
Inqredients/CTFA Name: wt%
Petrolatum 48.0
Isopropyl Lanolate 6.0
Ozoker ite 16.5
Candelilla Wax 4.5
Schercemol DID/Diisopropyl Dimer Dilinoleate 25.0

Procedure :
Heat all ingredients to 75-8OC until melted and uniform.
Cast into molds.
Formulation SK 83
SOURCE: Scher Chemicals, Inc.: Suggested Formulations
50 Cosmetic and Toiletty Formulations

Clear AHA Hoisturiser

This clear water-in-silicone gel demonstrates the unique
versatility of Dow Corning 3225C formulation aid in preparing
stable low pH emulsions.

Insredients: Wt%
Phase A:
Dow Corning 1401 (Cylomethicone and dimethiconol) 10.00
Dow Corning 3225 C (Cyclomethicone and dimethiconol
copolyol ) 10.00
Dow Corning 344 (Cyclomethicone) 5.00
Phase B:
Deionised water to 100
Purasal S/PF 60 (60% sodium lactate) 5-12
Purac PH 90 (Lactic acid) to required pH 2- 5
Triethanolamine 3.5
Glycerin 27.0
Procedure:
1. Combine the ingredients in Phase A, mix until uniform, using
a dual blade, turbulent style mixing action. Measure refrac-
tive index (RI).
2. Combine the ingredients in Phase B, mix until uniform. Measure
RI .
3. If RI of Phase B is higher than A, add more water to match.
If B is lower, add more glycerin to match.
4. Increase the mixing speed of Phase A to a tip velocity of 900
ft/min (i.e. a 2-inch blade at 1.376 rpm) and very slowly add
Phase B. This addition should take 10 minutes.
5. Continue mixing for an additional 10 minutes.
6. Pass the emulsion through a high-shear, one pass device (i.e.
colloid mill, Hydroshear, or hand-held mill) to achieve a
particle size distribution ranging from 0.5-2.0 microns.
Stability:
2 months at 40C
5 Freeze-Thaw cycles
2 months ambient
SOURCE: Purac America, Inc.: Dow Corning Formulation
 Beauty Aids 51

Cream Eve Shadow

Material : Wt$
Part A:
PPG-2 Myristyl Ether Propionate 41.28
Pigments 25.30
Unitwix 21.40
Super Refined Almond Oil 7.47
Stearic Acid 3.53
Cab-0-Si1 0.92
Fragrance 0.05
Propylparaben 0.05
Procedure:
1. Add the pigments to the PPG-2 Myristyl Ether Propionate while
mixing with a low shear propeller blade at moderate speed.
2. In a separate vessel weigh out the Unitwix and the Cab-0-Sil.
Heat gently with stirring to melt the Unitwix.
3. When the Unitwix is melted add the pigment blend and the Super
Refined Almond Oil and mix while heating to 80-85C.
4. Slowly add the remaining components.
5. When well blended remove the heat and cool with mixing to 55C.
Pour into desired containers.
Formulation 97048-U

Eve Firmins Gel

This formulation, based on Lubrajel MS, is a classic display
of the complementary properties of Lubrajel and liquid crystals.
This Eye Firming Gel is visually very appealing. The Lubrajel MS
is the sole moisturizing agent and viscosifier, while the liquid
crystals add artistic elegance and moisture retention.
Material : wt%
A Lubrajel MS 25.00
B Deionized Water 73.15
C Propylene Glycol, USP 1.75
D Methylparaben 0.08
E Propylparaben 0.02
F Liquid Crystal CN/G9 QS
Procedure:
1. Dissolve components D and E in component C. Use a small amount
of heat if necessary.
2. Using a paddle blade, mix components A and B.
3. Add step 1 to step 2 and package into containers.
4 . Add liquid crystals to each container using a swirling motion.
Formulation #92-043-E
SOURCE: Guardian Laboratories: Suggested Formulations
52 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Creamy Lipstick
This smooth lipstick glides on easily, while mineral oil
and petrolatum leave lips feeling moist and supple.
Insredient/Trade Name: Wt%
A: Castor Oil 50.00
Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide/Timiron MP-1001 5.00
FD&C Red #40 Aluminum Lake (39%) 4.00
Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) D&C Red No. 30/
Colorona Imperial Red 2.00
Titanium Dioxide/Micro Titanium Dioxide MT-100T 1.00
B: Pentaerythritol Tetraisostearate/Prisorine 3631 8.48
Beeswax/White Beeswax 7.25
Candelilla Wax 5.00
Mineral Oil/Drakeol 7 4.00
Myristyl Lactate/Ceraphyl 50 3.60
Petrolatum/Regent Petrolatum 3.40
Carnauba/Yellow Carnauba Wax #1 2.90
Ozokerite/White Ozokerite Wax 77W 2.10
Cetyl Esters/Spermaceti Substitute #573 1.24
BHT 0.03
C: Fragrance q.s.
Procedure:
Mix part A and homogenize until uniform. Heat part B to 95C
with stirring until the solids are melted. Add part A to part B
with gentle mixing and allow the mixture to cool slightly. Add
part C. Pour into molds and cool.
Formula 597-119

Lir, Balm with Lanolin

Petrolatum and lanolin are used to keep lips
soft and moist in this smooth-applying lip balm.
Insredient/Trade Name:
Petrolatum/Ultima Petrolatum
rn
47.50
Cetyl Palmitate 9.70
Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate/Prisorine 3630 9.10
Castor Oil 8.70
Candelilla Wax 5.80
Cetearyl Alcohol 4.70
Lanolin Oil/Ivarlan 3100 4.00
Carnauba/Yellow Carnauba Wax # 1 3.70
Ozokerite/White Ozokerite Wax 77W 3.70
Lanolin 2.80
Tocopheryl Acetate/Vitamin E Acetate 0.10
Propylparaben 0.10
BHT 0.10
Procedure:
Heat all ingredients to 80-85C with stirring until all the
mixture is homogeneous and the solids have melted. Pour into
molds and allow to cool.
Formula 597-127
SOURCE: Penreco: Suggested Formulations
 Beauty Aids 53

DeeD Red LiDstick

This lipstick applies easily and gives the lips a soft feel.
Mineral oil and petrolatum help add moisturization.
Inqredient/Trade Name: wt%
A: Castor Oil 41.90
FD&C Red #40 Aluminum Lake (17%) 5.70
D&C Red #27 Aluminum Lake 2.40
Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide/Timiron MP-1001 1.90
Titanium Dioxide/Micro Titanium Dioxide MT-150W 0.95
B: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride/Estol 1527 11.75
Petrolatum/Ultima Petrolatum 7.45
Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate/Estol 1526 6.20
Carnauba/Yellow Carnauba Wax #1 5.70
Candelilla Wax 5.70
Beeswax/White Beeswax 4.30
Mineral Oil/Drakeol 21 2.85
Microcrystalline Wax 2.65
Tocopheryl Acetate/Vitamin E Acetate 0.50
BHT 0.05
C: Fragrance q.s.

Procedure:
Homogenize part A until uniform. Heat part B to 80C with
stirring until the solids are melted. Add part A with stirring
and allow the mixture to cool to 75C. Add part C. Pour into
molds and cool.
Formula 597-118

LipBalm with Vitamin A

This lip balm is easily applied, leaving a light moisturizing
layer on the lips to prevent chapping.
Inuredient/Trade Name: wt%
Petrolatum/Snow Petrolatum 33.50
Mineral Oil/Drakeol 9 24.70
Ozokerite/White Ozokerite 77W 15.00
Beeswax/White Beeswax 10.00
Cetyl Alcohol 8.50
Candelilla Wax 7.20
Jojoba Oil/Refined Jojoba Oil 0.80
Corn Oil (and) Retinyl Palmitate/Vitamin A Palmitate
Type PIMO/BH 0.10
Propylparaben 0.10
BHT 0.10
Procedure:
Heat all ingredients to 80-85C with stirring until all the
solids have melted and the mixture is uniform. Pour into molds
and allow to cool.
Formula 597-125
SOURCE: Penreco: Suggested Formulations
54 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

m e Area Firmins Gel

Completech MBAC-EA helps to reduce fine lines and increases
viscoelasticity of the skin. The addition of Hypan SA-100H adds
clarity while aiding in the removal of tackiness. The result
leaves the skin with an elegant feeling. The addition of Liponic
EG-1, Hylucare and Unimoist U-125 aid in moisturization of the
skin.
Seauence: Raw Material/INCI Name: wt%
1 Deionized Water 61.95
1 Hampene Na2T/Disodium EDTA 0.05
1 Uniphen P-23 0.20
2 Liponic EG-l/Glycereth-26 1.50
2 Hypan SAlOOH/Acrylic Acid/Acrylonitrogens
Cop01ymer 0.10
3 Carbopol ETD2001/Carbomer(2% disp) 20.00
4 Deionized Water 1.00
4 Triethanolamine, 99% 0.60
5 Lubrigel MS/Polyglycerylmethacrylate (and)
Propylene Glycol 5.00
6 Unimoist U-125 1.00
7 Benzophenone-4 0.15
7 Deionized Water 1.00
7 Unicide U-l3/1midazolidinyl Urea 0.25
8 Hylucare (1% sol'n)/Hyaluronic Acid 1.00
9 Deionized Water 5.00
9 Completech MBAC-EA 1.20
Procedure:
1. Heat and mix Sequence #1 to 80C and mix until a clear solution
is reached.
2. Premix Sequence #2 and add to Sequence #1 at 80C with medium/
high speed on overhead mixer using propeller blade.
3. Heat Sequence #3 to 70C and add to batch bringing temperature
back to 80C.
4 . Premix Sequence #4 and add to batch on overhead mixer at
medium/high speed. Mix for 15-20 minutes or until completely
hydrated/neutralized.
5. Add non-heated Sequence # 5 to batch with medium speed on over-
head mixer. Lower temperature to 60C.
6 . Add Sequence #6 into solution using low heat and add to batch
with low/medium speed on overhead mixer with propeller blade.
(Lower heat to 35C).
I. At 35C premix Sequence #7 until clear and add to batch. (Lower
temperature to 25C).
8 . At 25C add Sequence #8 at low speed using propeller blade.
9. Premix Sequence #9 until homogeneous and add to batch with
low speed until completely mixed into batch.
SOURCE: Lip0 Chemicals fnc.: Formula No. 836
 Beauty Aids 55

Face Bronxer with Sunscreen

SF1214 is a blend of cyclomethicone and high molecular weight
dimethicone. The cyclomethicone acts as an emollient and gives a
dry, non-greasy feel. The high molecular weight dimethicone gives
a soft, silky feel when applied to the skin. SS4267 is a blend
of a low molecular weight dimethicone and a silicone resin which
is film-forming and provides a more durable product.
Inuredient/Function: Wt%
Part A:
Water 52.9
Carbomer (l)/Suspending/Thickener 0.5
DMDM Hydantoin/Preservative 0.4
Dehydroacetic Acid/Preservative 0.1
Sodium Hydroxide (40%)/Neutralizer 0.4
Glycerin/Humectant 5.0
Part B:
Stearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20 (Z)/Emulsifier/
Thickener 2.2
Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate (3)/Emulsifier 5.0
Cetyl Alcohol/Viscosity/Opacifier 0.6
Isopropyl Isostearate/Emollient 3.9
Mineral Oil/Emollient 7.5
Myristyl Lactate/Emollient 0.5
Octyl Methoxycinnamate/UV absorber 7.0
Benzophenone-3/W absorber 4.0
Part C:
Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Iran Oxides (4)/Pigment 5.0
Part D:
Dimethicone (and) Trimethylsiloxysilicate (SS4267) (5)/
Film-former 3.0
Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethicone (SF1214) (5)/Smooth,
silky feel/Emollient 2.0
Procedure:
1. In Part A, predissolve carbomer in warm water. Heat to 75C
and add other Part A ingredients.
2. Heat Part B to 75C until all ingredients are melted with
moderate agitation.
3 . Slowly add Part B to Part A with good mixing.
4. Cool with continued mixing to 60C and add Part C.
5. Continue mixing until 55C and add Part D.
6. Mix and cool to 25C and mill through a colloid mill at 0.005"
.
setting
Comente :
* Reduce greasiness by replacing isopropyl isostearate with
SF1202 cyclomethicone.
* Increase water resistance by increasing 384267.
* Increase viscosity by decreasing glycerin level.
Trade Names/Suppliers:
(1) Carbopol 980, B.F.Goodrich Co.
(2) Promulgen G, Amerchol Corp.
( 3 ) Arlacel 165, ICI Surfactants
(4) Timica Gold Sparkle, Mearl Corp.
(5) GE Silicones
SOURCE: GE Silicones: Personal Care Formulary: Formula CC 104
56 Cosmetic and Toiletty Formulations

Face Bronzer with Sunscreen

SFE839 Elastomer Dispersion is a 5.5% silicone elastomer
dispersed in cyclopentasiloxane, which provides excellent
aesthetics, creating a smooth, silky luxurious feel. The
cyclopentasiloxane acts as an emollient and gives a dry, non-
greasy feel. The SFE839 blend is a film former and provides a
more durable product.

Inqredient/Function: Wt%
Part A:
Water 52.9
Carbomer (l)/Suspending Agent/Thickener 0.5
DMDM Hydantoin/Preservative 0.4
Dehydroacetic Acid/Preservative 0.1
Sodium Hydroxide (40%)/Neutralizer 0.4
Glycerin/Humectant 5.0
Part B:
Stearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20 (Z)/Emulsifier/
Thickener 2.2
Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate (3)/Emulsifier 5.0
Cetyl Alcohol/Viscosity Modifier/Opacifier 0.6
Isopropyl Isostearate/Emollient 3.9
Mineral Oil/Emollient 7.5
Myristyl Lactate/Emollient 0.5
Octyl Methoxycinnamate/UV Absorber 7.0
Benzophenone-3/UV Absorber 4.0
Part C:
Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Iron Oxides (4)/Pigment 5.0
Part D:
Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone
Crosspolymer (SFE839) (5)/Smooth, silky feel 5.0
Procedure:
1. In Part A, predissolve carbomer in warm water. Heat to 75C
and add other Part A ingredients.
2 . Heat Part B to 75C until all ingredients are melted with
moderate agitation.
3. Slowly add Part B to Part A with good mixing.
4. Cool with continued mixing to 60C and add Part C.
5. Continue mixing until 55C and add Part D.
6. Mix and cool to 25C and mill through a colloid mill at 0.005"
setting.
Comments:
Increase viscosity by decreasing glycerin level.
Trade Narnes/Suppliers:
1. Carbopol 980, B.F. Goodrich Co.
2 . Promulgen G, Amerchol Corp.
3. Arlacel 165, ICI Surfactants
4 . Timica Gold Sparkle, Mearl Corp.
5. GE Silicones
SOURCE: GE Silicones: Personal Care Formulary: Formula CC107
 Beauty Aids 57

Facial Cleanser
High-foaming facial cleanser.

Inqredients: Wt%
Potassium Cocoate 10.83
Water 39.70
Sulfochem SLS 36.93
Stearic Acid 3.46
Chemsperse EGDS 0.95
Chembetaine C 4.76
Amidex CE 3.37
Preservatives q.s.
Fragrance, color, etc. q.s.
Blending Procedure:
Mix potassium cocoate, water, and SLS, and heat to 9OC in
main mixing vessel. Add premelted stearic acid, maintain temp-
erature, and mix until emulsified (about 5 to 10 minutes). Add
EGDS. Turn off heating, begin cooling, and add Chembetaine C
and Amidex CE. When temperature reaches 45C or below, add pres-
ervatives, fragrance, and color.
Typical Physical Properties:
pH: 6.5
Viscosity: 7,200 cps
Appearance: Pearly white liquid
Note:
This formula will yield a product with a viscosity of approx-
imately 7,000 cps. To make a product with higher viscosity,
increase the level of the potassium cocoate and stearic acid,
maintaining the same ratio between the two. To make a product
with lower viscosity, decrease the level of potassium cocoate
and stearic acid, maintaining the same ratio between the two.
Formulation No. F1007

Facial Cleanser
Starting formulation for a premium, mild facial cleanser.

Inqredients: Wt%
Sulfochem SBS 36.00
Water, soft 63.88
Fragrance 0.10
NaCl q.s.
Preservatives q.s.
Citric acid typical: 0.02
Blending Procedure:
Charge mixing vessel with water and Sulfochem SBS, and mix
until dissolved. Adjust pH with citric acid to 6.5-7.0. Add
preservatives, color, and fragrance. Adjust viscosity to 1,200-
2,500 cps with sodium chloride.
Typical Physical Properties:
Viscosity: 1,200-2,500 cps
pH: 6.5-7.0
Formulation No. E3145
SOURCE: Chemron Corp.: Suggested Formulations
58 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Facial M m
This ultra mild, deep cleansing formulation will eliminate
little imperfections and blemishes to leave the skin silky
smooth. Monafax MAP 230 helps in the the dispersion of the
bentonite clay and allows for an even layer of the clay to be
spread over the skin for easy application. The Phospholipid CDM
provides gentle cleansing, excellent substantivity, and anti-
microbial properties on the skin.
Insredients: Wt%
Water 16.4
Disodium EDTA 0.1
Polargel NF (Bentonite) 12.5
Monafax MAP 230 5.0
Propylene Glycol 4.0
Phospholipid CDM 1.0
Germaben IIE 1.0
Procedure:
Heat water to 50-60C, add Na2 EDTA. Slurry the Polargel NF
very slowly with shearing agitation. After slurry is achieved,
let it hydrate by having it stand for 10-15 minutes. Add the
Monafax MAP 230 slowly allowing it to blend evenly in the slurry.
Add the remaining ingredients in order listed, the same way the
Monafax MAP 230 was added. Package in tubes
Important Notes:
Minimize water loss
Minimize aeration
SOURCE: Mona Industries, Inc.: Formula F-82

--_--__-
Facial Gel Cleanser
Inaredients/CTFA Name2 Wt%
Water 72.25
Schercoquat IAS-LC/Isostearamidopropyl Ethyl Dimonium
Ethosulfate 0.55
Schercotaine CAB-G, 35%/Cocamidopropyl Betaine 10.00
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, 30% 17.00
Preservative 0.20
Fragrance q.s.
Procedure:
1. Heat water to 50C. With stirring add Schercoquat IAS-LC until
it is dissolved.
2. Add the other ingredients in the order given, with continual
agitation while allowing the batch to cool.
Appearance: Gel
Viscosity: 8,000 cps
Formula SK 142
SOURCE: Scher Chemicals, Inc.: Formula SK 1 4 2
 Beauty Aids 59

Facial Scrub
Staue Materials: Wt%
Stage:
Pre-Mix 1:
1 Water; Pure 72.050
2 Carbopol 940 0.200
Pre-Mix 2:
3 Propylene Glycol USP 6.000
4 Preservative as required 0.300
Stage A:
5 Magnesium Sulphate 0.100

Stage B:
6 Light Mineral Oil a. 000
7 GMS s/e 4.000
8 Stearic Acid-Triple Pressed 3.000
9 Almond Oil USP, Sweet 1.100
10 Peach Kernel Oil 1.100

Stage C:
11 Triethanolamine 99% 0.900
Stage D:
12 AEC Walnut Shell Powder 3.000
Cooling Cycle:
13 Fragrance 0.250

Mixing Instructions:
Pre-Mix 1: Meter out water and start heating. Sprinkle in Carbo-
pol and mix until all lumps are dispersed.
Pre-Mix 2: Dissolve preservative in Propylene Glycol and add to
Mix.
Stage A: Complete Stage A by adding Magnesium Sulphate to mix
and bring to temperature (70C).
Stage B: Melt the Oils and waxes of Stage B and mix, bring to
temperature.
With the Silverson running slowly add the hot oils to the hot
Aqueous Phase, mix briefly then add the Triethanolamine which
will thicken the product. Start cooling with mixing, before the
product gets too thick add the Walnut Shell and mix until dis-
persed, add the perfume and mix briefly. (Silverson mixing after
addition of walnut shell should be avoided).
SOURCE: A&E Connock Ltd.: Formula Ref.: 784*0
60 Cosmetic and Toiletty Formulations

Facial Soag
Raw Materials: Wt%
Mackadet 40-K (Potassium Cocoate) 25.0
Mackam 2C (Disodium Cocoamphodiacetatel 20.0
Mackamide LLM (Lauramide DEA) 2.0
Mackester EGMS (Glycol Stearate) 1.0
Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydantoin) qs
D.I. Water, Fragrance qs to 100.0
Procedure:
1. Add components to water.
2 . Heat to 70C.
3. Blend until homogeneous; cool to 50C.
4 . Adjust pH to 7.0-7.5 with Citric Acid.
5. Add Mackstat DM and Fragrance.
6. Cool to room temperature.

Stinq Free Facial Cleanser

Raw Materials: Wt%
Mackam 2C (Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate) 40.0
Sodium Laureth-1 Sulfate (25%) 15.0
Mackernium 007 (Polyquaternium 7) 1.5
Mackanate DC-30 (Disodium Dimethicone Copolyol Sulfo-
succinate) 4.0
Mackester SP (Glycol Stearate (and) Stearamide MEA) 2.0
Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydantoin) qs
Water, Dye, Fragrance qs to 100.0
Procedure:
1. Add Mackam 2C, Sodium Laureth-1 Sulfate, Mackanate DC-30, and
Mackester SP to water.
2. Heat to 7OC and blend until homogeneous.
3. Cool to 50C and slowly add Mackernium 007.
4 . When completely dispersed, add remaining components.

SOURCE: McIntyre Group Ltd.: Personal Care Formulary: Formulae

Cleansins Milk
Raw Materials: Wt%
Lanolin Anhydrous 5.0
Propylene Glycol Monostearate 3.0
Polysynlane 38.0
IPM 4.0
Paraffin Wax 4.0
Beeswax 16.0
Potassium Hydroxide 0.7
Perfume & Preservatives q.s.
Water ad. 100.0
SOURCE: Polyesthar Corp.: Suggested Formulation
 Beauty Aids 61

Lip Balm
This mildly strawberry flavored lip balm formulation exhibits
a typical application of Unitwix to form lipstick type products
for personal care. A sunscreen has been added in order to lend
some protection against UV radiation and Oil of Orchids is added
to improve the feel.
Material : wt%
A Petrolatum, USP 39.25
B Isopropyl Myristate 10.00
C Stearyl Alcohol 10.00
D Butyl Stearate 15.50
E Volatile Silicone VS-1758 10.00
F 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid 2.00
G Oil of Orchids ( 0 s ) 2.00
H Octyl Dimethyl Paba 2.00
I Unitwix 8.50
J Flavor 0.17
K Calcium Saccharine 0.08
L Duochrome RY 0.50
Procedure:
1. Melt components A,B,C,D,G and I at approximately 70C.
2. Add remainder of components and mix while cooling to 50-55C.
3. Package.
Formulation #92-036-H

Lip Moisturizer
Utilizing Lubrajel CG and Solimate 'E', this formulation
exhibits excellent lip moisturization, a pleasant taste and UV
protection.
Solimate 'E' is used to microemulsify the sunscreen along
with the peppermint and spearmint oils. The ultimate choice in
moisturization is Lubrajel CG, which is used at a significant
concentration for this purpose.
Material : Wt%
A Lubrajel CG 50.00
B Deionized Water 46.72
C Solimate 'E' 2.50
D Octyl Salicylate 0.50
E Peppermint Oil, USP 0.05
F Spearmint Oil, USP 0.05
G FD&C Blue #1 (100ppm) 0.18
Procedure:
1. Premix components A and B and label as "Phase I."
2. Premix components C,D,E and F and label as "Phase 11.
3. Premix component G (prepare the lOOppm solution) and label as
"Phase 111.I'
4 . Add "Phase 11" to "Phase I" with low speed stirring.
5. Add "Phase 111" and continue stirring until uniform. Package.
Formulation #91-112
SOURCE: Guardian Laboratories: Suggested Formulations
62 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Lip Gloss with D-Panthenol

Raw Materials: wt%
A. Softisan 645 44.5
Softisan 649 10
Softigen 701 (Glyceryl Ricinoleate) 10
Polyisobutene 1000 13
Lanfrax (Lanolin Wax) 10
Candelilla Wax 2.5
B. Pearlustre Pigment 3
Colour 2
D-Panthenol 5
Fragrance
Preparation:
A and B are heated up to 7 5 C . The mixture is chilled to
about 40C by stirring. Then B is added. Preferably homogenize
mixture before pouring.

tip Stick
Raw Materials:
Softisan 100 (Hydrogenated Cocoglycerides)
Miglyol 812 (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) 14
Softisan 649 5
Petrolatum 30
Beeswax 20
Paraffin 5
Cetyl Alcohol 5
Carnauba Wax 1

Preparation:
All ingredients are heated to 7 5 C . Then the homogeneous
compound is poured into moulds.
SOURCE: Huls Aktiengesellschaft: Suggested Formulations
 Beauty Aids 63

LiDosilt Black Bodv Mask

A non-drying body mask that is rich in vitamins and minerals
for skin cleansing and nourishment. The Liposilt Black is the
source of the nutrients and yields a nourished and soft appear-
ance to the skin.
Sequence: Raw Material/INCI Name: WtOg
1 Deionized Water 37.28
1 Uniphen P-23 0.60
2 Keltrol/Xanthan Gum 0.12
2 Mineral Colloid BP/Montmorillonite 0.10
3 Liposilt Black/Silt 30.00
3 Deionized Water 5.00
4 Lipovol SES/Sesanie Oil 15.00
4 Lip0 GMS-450/Glyceryl Stearate 2.50
4 Lipopeg 6000 DS/PEG-150 Distearate 0.50
5 Kaolin 7.50
6 Eucalyptus Oil 0.10

7 Deionized Water 1.00

7 Unicide U-l3/Imidazolidinyl Urea 0.30

Procedure:
1. In main kettle combine Sequence #1 ingredients, mix with
overhead mixer while heating to 7 8 C .
2. Dry mix Sequence # 2 together and add to Sequence #1 at medium
speed on overhead mixer.
3. In auxiliary kettle coinhine Sequence # 3 ingredients and heat
to 65C. Place on homomixer for one (1) minute at medium speed
4. Add Sequence #3 to batch under homomixer, holding temperature
at 78C.
5. Heat Sequence #4 to 7 8 C until completely melted and add to
batch under homomixer.
6. Add Sequence # 5 to batch under homomixer. Switch to moderate
sweep and cool to 42C.
7 . At 42C add Sequence # 6 and mix until thoroughly dispersed.
Cool to 35c.
8. At 35C add premixed Sequence # 7 to batch and cool to 25C.

SOURCE: L i p 0 Chemicals Inc.: Formula No. 6 9 7

64 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Liposilt Black Cleansinq Silt

A non-drying cleansing mud that is rich in vitamins and
minerals for skin cleansing and nourishment. The Liposilt Black
is the source of the nutrients and yields a nourished and soft
appearance and feel to the face. Suggested for oily skin.
Sesuence: Raw Material: Wt%
1 Deionized Water 31.85
1 Methylparaben 0.25
2 Ke 1trol 0.15
2 Veegum HV ( 4 % Disp'n) 0.50
3 Liponic EG-1 6.00
3 Lan-Aqua-Sol 75; 100 4.50
4 Triethanolamine, 99% 1.20
4 Deionized Water 1.00
5 Lipovol SES 12.00
5 Fancol IPL 3.50
5 Liponate NPGC-2 3.50
5 Lip0 Stearic Acid 3.00
5 Lipolan Distilled 2.00
5 Lip0 GMS-450 1.50
5 DC 200 Fluid (350 cts) 1.00
5 Lipopeg 100-S 0.90
5 Liposorb S 0.75
5 Llpocol c 0.50
5 Propylparaben 0.10
6 Hamposyl C-30 4.00
6 Monawet MO-70R 0.50
7 Liposilt Black 20.00
8 Deionized Water 1.00
8 Unicide U-13 0.30

Procedure:
1. Premix Sequence #1, heat to 8OC and mix until dissolved using
overhead mixer.
2. Dry mix Sequence # 2 and add to Sequence # 1 at 80C with over-
head mixer at medium/high speed until completely homogeneous.
3. Add Sequence # 3 ingredients one at a time to batch while
bringing temperature batch to 80C.
4. Premix Sequence #4 and add to batch.
5. Mix Sequence #5 ingredients together and heat until completely
melted (approximately 80C) and add to batch with overhead
mixer at medium/high speed. Cool slowly to 70C.
6. At 70C add Sequence # 6 ingredients in order of addition to
batch.
7. Heat Sequence #7 to 50C and mix on homomixer for 1 minute at
medium speed.
8. Add Sequence #7 to batch on overhead mixer using sweep blade
and cool to 35C.
9. At 35C add premixed Sequence # 8 , cool to 25C and package.
SOURCE: Lip0 Chemicals Inc.: Formula No. 675
 Beauty Aids 65

Liposilt Green Cleansins Mud

A non-drying cleansing mud that is rich in vitamins and
minerals for skin cleansing and nourishment. The Liposilt Green
is the source of the nutrients and yields a nourished and soft
appearance and feel to the face. Suggested for dry or sensitive
skin.
Sequence: Raw Material; W X
1 Deionized Water 20.80
1 Keltrol F 0.15
1 Veegum HR ( 4 % Disp'n) 12.50
1 Liponic EG-1 6.00
1 Triethanolamine 99% 1.20
1 Lan-Aqua-Sol 5 0 4.50
1 Methylparaben 0.30
2 Lipovol SES 12.00
2 Fancol IPL 3.50
2 Liponate NPGC-2 3.50
2 Lip0 Stearic Acid 3.00
2 Lipolan Distilled 2-00
2 Lip0 GMS-450 1.50
2 DC 200 Fluid (350 CtS) 1.00
Lipopeg 100-S 0.90
Lipocol C 0.50
Liposorb S 0.75
Propylparaben 0.10
3 Hamposyl C-30 4.00
3 Monawet MO-70R 0.50
4 Liposilt Green 20.00
5 Deionized Water 1.00
5 Unicide U-13 0.30
Procedure:
1. In the main kettle, add water and disperse the Keltrol com-
pletely using Lightnin' mixing. When completely hydrated,
add remainder of Sequence # 1 ingredients in order of addition.
Heat to 75C with Lightnin' mixing.
2. In a side kettle, combine Sequence #2 ingredients and heat to
78C with mixing.
3 . Add combined Sequence #2 ingredients to combined Sequence #1
ingredients under Lightnin' mixing. Mix for 15 minutes or
until emulsification is complete. Cool to 70C.
4. At 70C, add Sequence #3 ingredients with continued Lightnin'
mixing. Mix for 10 minutes and continue cooling.
5 . At 55-60C or when batch begins to thicken, remove Lightnin'
mixer and insert variable speed side-wiper mixing.
6. Cool to 42C and add Sequence #4 ingredients.
7. Cool to 35C and add premixed Sequence #5 ingredients. Cool
to 25C and package.
SOURCE: Lip0 Chemicals Inc.: Formula No. 6 7 4
66 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

LiDStiCk Base
Insredients: wtq,
Ross Refined Candelilla Wax 9.1
Isopropyl Myristate 9.6
Lanolin Anhydrous 5.0
Ross White Bleached Beeswax 4.0
Fully Refined Paraffin Wax 130/135 2.0
Ross Ozokerite Wax 77W 2.5
Castor Oil Crystal 0 54.1
Ross Refined #1 Yellow Carnauba Wax 1.5
Pigments 7.5
Mineral Oil 4.0
Propyl Paraben 0.1
Procedure:
In kettle ( A ) heat all the ingredients under agitation except
10% of Castor Oil and the pigments. When blended cool to almost
solid and hold. I n kettle ( B ) slurry the 10% of castor oil and
the pigments till blended. When both kettles are ready add kettle
(A) to kettle (B). Pass thru a 3 roll mill till smooth and cast
into molds.

Hiqh Meltinq Point Lipstick

Insredient: Wt%
Ozokerite Wax 77W 5.0
Refined Candelilla Wax 11.0
Octyl dodecanol 27.0
C30-45 Alkyl Methicone 5.0
Cyclomethicone 4.8
Petrolatum 3.0
Lanolin Oil 9.0
Avocado Oil 2.0
Oleyl alcohol 8.0
Methylparaben 0.2
Pigment/cyclomethicone 25.0

SOURCE: Frank B. Ross Co., Inc.: Suggested Formulations

 Beauty Aids 67

Liquid Make-up with Panalane L14E and Ultraresistant Piqments

And Increased Wettinq A q e n s
This product provides an even smooth application with a cush-
ioning effect and moisturization combined with transfer proof
and long wear properties of the Ultraresistant Pigments.
Sequence: Raw MaterialjINCI Name:
1 Deionized Water 66.02
1 CMC 7H3SF/Cellulose Gum 0.30
1 Veegum/Magnesiuin Aluminum Silicate 0.40
1 Butylene Glycol 3.75
1 Methylparaben 0.20

2 Lip0 Lecithin 0.40

2 Liposorb O-ZO/Polysorbate 80 0.10
2 Triethanolamine, 99% 1.13
2 Boron Nitride 6069 2.00
2 Titanium Dioxide UH 0082 8.00
2 Iron Oxide Yellow #C-UR0200 0.40
2 Iron Oxide Red #C-UR1800 0.90
2 Iron Oxide Black #C-UR2500 0.10
3 Lip0 GMS-470/Glyceryl Stearate SE 1.00
3 Liponate IPP/Isopropyl Palmitate 2.00
3 Lip0 Stearic Acid 2.00
3 Liponate 2DH/PEG-4 Diheptanoate 2.00
3 Panalane L-l4E/Hydrogenated Polyisobutene 7.00
3 Emersol 871/Isostearic Acid 1.00
3 Propylparaben 0.20
4 Deionized Water 1.00
4 Unicide U-l3/Imidazolidinyl Urea 0.10
Procedure:
1. In main kettle, combine Sequence #1 ingredients under Light-
nin' mixing and heat to 60-7OC.
2. Add Sequence # 2 ingredients to Sequence #1 slowly under Light-
nin' mixing.
3 . Pass combined Sequence #1 and #2 through colloid mill and
recirculate until pigments are evenly dispersed.
4. Transfer the bulk to main kettle and mix under Lightnin'
mixer and heat to 80C.
5. In auxiliary kettle, combine Sequence # 3 ingredients under
Lightnin' mixing and heat to 80-85C.
6. At proper temperature (80-86C) add combined Sequence #3
ingredients to batch (water phase pigment grind) under sweep
mixing, maintaining temperature until emulsion is complete.
Begin cooling to 40C, switching to slow mixing as batch
thickens.
7. At 40C add premixed Sequence # 4 ingredients to batch and
cool to 30C.
0 . Pour the batch into a suitable container.

SOURCE: Lip0 Chemicals Inc.: Formula NO. 916

68 Cosmetic and Toileity Formulations

Liuuid Talc
Inqredients/CTFA Name: Wt%
A) Schercemol CO/Cetyl Octanoate 8.40
Keltrol F/Xanthan Gum 0.50
Kelcoloid S/Propylene Glycol Alginate 0.50
Fragrance 0.25
B) Deionized Water 57.55
Non-Fat Dry Milk 1.00
Dowicil 200/Quaternium-15 0.20
C) Emphos D70-30C/Sodium Glyceryl Oleate Phosphate 1.00
Schercemol GMIS/Glyceryl Isostearate 0.30
D) Schercomid AME-’IO/Acetamide MEA 4.50
Cucumber Extract/Herbasol Extract Cucumber 1.00
Talc 1629/Talc 10.50
SDA 40 14.00
Methylparaben 0.20
Propylparaben 0.10
Procedure:
1. Combine ingredients of Part A until well dispersed.
2 . Combine Part B until uniform.
3. Add Part B to Part A on an Eppenbach type homomixer.
4 . Combine Part C and add to Parts A & B.
5. Combine Part D and add to the rest of the batch
6. Mix until well dispersed.
Formulation SK 86

Body Silkenins Dry Oil

Inqredients/CTFA Name: Wt$
Dow Corning 344 Fluid/Cyclomethicone 66.0
Schercemol NGDO/Neopentyl Glycol Dioctanoate 16.0
Schercemol CO/Cetyl Octanoate 12.0
Schercemol DIS/Diisopropyl Sebacate 5.0
Fragrance 1.0
Procedure:
Combine ingredients at room temperature. Mix until clear and
homogeneous.
Formulation SK 07A
SOURCE: Scher Chemicals, Inc.: Suggested Formulations
 Beauty Aids 69

Low Temperature Flowable Skin Cleanser

Insredients: wt%
Water 19.3
Sodium Chloride 1.0
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate(28g) 35.7
Sodium Laureth-2 Sulfate(26%) 38.5
Promidium CC (PPG-1 Hydroxyethyl Caprylamide) 3.0
Phospholipid PTC (Cocamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride
Phosphate) 2.5
Procedure:
Add ingredients in order listed with gentle agitation. Adjust
pH to 5 . 0 .
Formulation Properties:
Appearance: Pearly opaque liquid
Viscosity(cP) @ 25C: 900
Activity(%): 26
Formula F-859

- --
Clear Conditioninq Silky Body Cleanser
The following formula provides long lasting foam leaving the
body feeling fresh, clean and silky smooth.
Insredients: Wt%
Water 14.6
Tetrasodium EDTA(40%) 0.3
Sodium Chloride 1.0
Monafax MAP 230T60(60%) (TEA-C12-13 Phosphate) 6.7
Sodium Laureth (2) Sulfate (26%) 46.4
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (28%) 27.0
Promidium CO (PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Cocamide) 4.0
Procedure:
Blend ingredients in the order listed. Adjust the pH to 5 . 5 .
Add fragrance, color and preservative as required.
Typical Properties:
Appearance: Clear Viscous Liquid
Viscosity: 11,000 cP
Total Solids(%): 28.8
Formula F-860
SOURCE: Mona Industries, Inc.: Formulas F-859 and F-860
70 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Make-Up-m
SF1214 is a blend of cycloinethicone and high molecular
weight dimethicone. The cyclomethicone acts as an emollient
and gives a dry, non-greasy feel. The high molecular weight
dimethicone gives a soft, silky feel when applied to the skin.
884267 is a blend of a low molecular weight dimethicone and a
silicone resin which is film-forming and provides a more durable
product
Inqredient/Function: Wt%
Part A:
Cetyl Acetate (and) Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol (1)/
Emoll ient 3.00
Myristyl Myristate/Emollient 2.20
Diethyl Sebacate/Einollient 2.00
Stearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20 (l)/Emulsifier 2.00
Ceteth-lO/Emulsifier 0.10
Butylparaben/Preservative 0.10
Part B:
Water 68.35
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (2)/Thickener 0.50
Xanthan Gum/Suspending agent/Thickener 0.15
Glycerin/Humectant 3.00
Citric Acid/pH adjuster 0.30
Propylene Glycol (and) Diazolidinyl Urea (and)
Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben (3)/Preservative 0.60

Part C:
Dimethicone (and) Trimethylsiloxysilicate SS4267)(4)/
Film-former 3.00
Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethicone (SF1214) 4 ) /Soft,
silky feel 1 .oo
Talc/Feel, pigment 5.00
Titanium Dioxide/Pigment 5.00
Iron Oxides/Pigment 3.70
Procedure:
1. Heat Part A and Part B to 75C.
2. Add Part B to Part A with high shear mixing.
3 . Cool to 55C and add Part C with good mixing.
4. Continue mixing until cooled to 25C.
Trade Names/Suppliers:
(1) Lanatex Products Inc.
(2) Veegum HV, R.T. Vanderbilt Co., Inc.
( 3 ) Germaben 11, International Specialty Products (ISP)
(4) GE Silicones
SOURCE: GE Silicones: Personal Care Formulary: Formula CC 102
 Beauty Aids 71

Mascara Using Avalure UR 450 Polymer

This mascara eyelash makeup cream applies beautifully from
an automatic mascara unit containing a brush for application.
The urethane polymer (Avalure UR 450 polymer) contributes bulk
and adherence to the eyelashes allowing for a long-lasting plump
look. It also eliminates the need for any of the other gums such
as gum arabic in the product.
INCI-CTFA Name/Trade Name: Wt”s
Part A:
1. Deionized Water 59.50
2 . Methylparaben 0.10
3 . Methocel 40-202 0.20
4. Triethanolamine (99%) 2.80
5 . DL-Panthenol 0.50
6. Avalure UR 450 Polymer 6.00
7. PVP-K30 2.00
Part B:
8. C33-7734 Cosmetic Black/Iron Oxides 10.00
Part C:
9. Stearic Acid/Emersol 132 5.50
10.Bayberry Wax 1.80
11.Glyceryl Stearate/Protachem GMS-450 1.70
lZ.Beeswax, White 4.50
13.Carnauba Wax, Prime #1 Yellow, Refined Flakes 2.70
1 4 . W Gum Rosin 1.80
15.Propylparaben NF 0.10
Part D:
l6.Mirasil SM/Simethicone 0.10
17.Lipovol WGO/Wheat Germ Oil 0.10
18.Phenonip 0.10
19.Germaben I1 0.50
Preparation Procedure:
Part A:
1. Add the deionized water to a suitable kettle and begin heating
the water to 40C. Add the methylparaben and mix until dis-
solved.
2 . Turn the heat off and add the Methocel. Mix until uniformly
dispersed and until no luinps appear.
3 . Add the triethanolamine and mix until the gum is hydrated and
clear. 4. Add the Panthenol and mix until dissolved.
5. Add the Avalure UR 450 polymer and continue mixing until the
mixture is uniform.
6. Add the PVP powder and mix until all of the powder is in the
solution and Part A is uniform. Maintain the temperature but
raise it to 75C just before combining with Parts B & C.
Parts B&C:
7. Mix a l l of the ingredients of Part C (oil phase) in a suit-
able kettle and melt to 75C.
8 . When all of Part C has been melted, add the pigment of
Part B to it and mix until the pigment is completely wetted
and uniform. 9. Continue mixing and begin cooling and at 50C
add Simethicone, Wheat Germ Oil and preservatives. Continue
cooling to room temperature.
SOURCE: BFGoodrich Specialty Chemicals: Formulation A0002
72 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

_________
“Matte-Finish“ Make-up
Inqredients/CTFA Name: Wt%
A) Schercemol CO/Cetvl Octanoate 7.0
‘ Schercemol DID/Diisopropyl Dimer Dilinoleate 1.0
Arlacel 60/Sorbitan Monostearate 3.0
Glutamate SSE 20/PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate 3.0
Schercemol GMIS/Glyceryl Isostearate 0.5
Dow Silicone fl. 350 cps 1.0
Escalol 507/0ctyl Dimethyl PABA 1.0
B) Veegum (4% aq.)/Magnesium Aluminum Silicate 15.0
Water 5 5 .0
Glycerin 2.0
Germaben I1 1.0
C) Pigments:
Talc 141 BC 2.1
Titanium Dioxide 3 2 8 6.4
7055 Iron Oxide Yellow 0.45
7061 Iron Oxide Brown 0.8
7054 Iron Oxide Red 0.25
D) Cucumber Extract 0.50
Procedure:
Phase B:
1. Disperse Veegum slurry in water until uniform.
2 . Add the rest of the water phase, mixing well.
Phase C: Mix Phase C:
3 . Add Phase C to Phase B and mix for 5 minutes or until fully
dispersed. In main beaker mix ingredients of Phase A. Heat
both Phases A and Phase B & C to 70C. Add Phase B, C to A
with moderate agitation. Cool batch to rooiii temperature with
continuous mixing, then add Phase D.
Formulation SK 147
“Matte-Finish’’Emollient Make-up
Formula for Lotion
Part A : Inqredients/CTFA Name: wt%
Stearic Acid 2.70
Schercemol GMIS/Glyceryl Isostearate 2.00
Schercemol DISD/Diisostearyl Dimer Dilinoleate 5.00
Schercemol IDO/Isodecyl Oleate 4.50
Cetyl Alcohol 0.75
Part B:
Propylene Glycol 4.50
Triethanolamine 0.90
Water 79.65
Preservative q.s.
Procedure:
Add Part B to Part A at 80C, mixing slowly. Cool to room temp.
Formula for Make-UD
Lotion 90.00
Pigment Blend 10 * 00
Procedure:
Slowly add lotion to pigment blend [which has been micronized)
in increments to make a paste. Continue to add lotion until a
fluid homogeneous emulsion is formed.
Formulation SK 138
SOURCE: Scher Chemicals, Inc.: Suggested Formulations
 Beauty Aids 73

Moisturiser with LTV-Protection

Stase: Material: Wt”s
Oil Phase:
1 Octyl Palmitate 3.000
2 AEC Diisostearyl Triniethylolpropane Siloxy
Silicate 1.500
3 Amphisol K 0.500
4 AEC Hydroxyoctacosanyl Hydroxystearate 3.000
5 Vitamin E Acetate 1 * 000
Aqueous Phase:
6 Water; Pure 73.100
7 Xanthan Gum 0.200
8 Veegum Ultra 0.800
9 Glycerine BP 5.000
10 Arlatone 2121 3.000
11 D-Panthenol USP 1.000
12 Tioveil AQ N 6.000
13 Sodium PCA 1.000
14 Add preservative(s) & colour to suit 0.500
Cooling Cycle:
15 Fragrance 0.400
Formula Ref.: 387*

Moisturiser with W Protection

Staqe: Material: 3
Oil Phase:
1 Octyl Palmitate 5.000
2 Cetearyl Octanoate 5.000
3 AEC Dimethicone V l O O 1.000
4 Beeswax; White Pellets 4.000
Aqueous Phase:
5 Water; Pure 65.600
6 Xanthan Gum 0.200
7 Veegum Ultra 2.000
8 Propylene Glycol USP 5.000
9 Arlatone 2121 5.000
10 Sodium Lactate 60% 0.300
11 Lactic Acid 0.100
12 Tioveil AQ N 6.000
13 Add preservative(s) & colour to suit 0.500
Cooling Cycle:
14 Fragrance 0.300
Mixing Instructions:
Heat the Oil Phase to 70C.
Disperse the Xanthan Gum and Veegum in the Water and heat to
7 0 C , adding the remaining Aqueous Phase ingredients while doing
so and with continuous stirring, only use a Silverson briefly to
form an emulsion at start and to homogenise at finish, use a
slow speed mixer while cooling.
pH: 5 . 3 - 6 . 5
Formula Ref.: 399*
SOURCE: A&E Connock Ltd.: Suggested Formulations
74 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Moisturiser with W Protection

Staqe:. Material : Wt%
Oil Phase:
1 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 5.000
2 AEC Dimethicone VlOO 1.000
3 Cetearyl Alcohol 1.000
4 GMS NSE 5.000
5 Amphisol K 2.000
Aqueous Phase:
6 Water; Pure 71.600
7 Veegum Ultra 2.000
8 Propylene Glycol USP 5.000
9 Sodium PCA 0.500
10 Lactic Acid 0.100
11 Tioveil AQ N 6.000
12 Add preservative(s) & colour to suit 0.500
Cooling Cycle:
13 Fragrance 0.300
Mixing Instructions:
Heat the Oil Phase to 70C.
Disperse the Xanthan Gum and Veegum in the Water and heat to
70C, adding the remaining Aqueous Phase ingredients while doing
so and with continuous stirring, only use a Silverson briefly to
form an emulsion at start and to homogenise at finish, use a
slow speed mixer while cooling. pH: 6.0-6.5
Formula Ref.: 400"
Moisture Lotion
Staqe: Material: wt%
Oil Phase:
1 Light Mineral Oil 7.000
2 Superhartolan 2.000
3 AEC Dimethicone VlOO 1.200
4 Amerchol LlOl 3.000
5 Stearic Acid-Triple Pressed 5.000
Aqueous Phase:
6 Water; Pure 74.284
7 Glycerine BP 3.000
8 Carbopol 934 0.166
9 Triethanolamine 99% 2.500
10 Add preservative(s) & colour to suit 0.500
Cooling Cycle:
11 Fragrance 0.350
Mixing Instructions:
This is an oil-in-water emulsion.
Heat the Oil Phase to 70/75C and mix well, ensure all waxes
are melted.
Heat the Aqueous Phase to 70/75C, carefully dispersing the
Carbopol and mix well.
Carefully add the hot oil phase to the hot aqueous phase
with mixing.
Cool with continual slow mixing, when below 35C add the
fragrance and homogenise.
Formula Ref.: 536"
SOURCE: A&E Connock Ltd.: Suggested Formulations
 Beauty Aids 75

Moisturizinq Eve Gel

A clear gel to be used around the eyes to smooth the skin and
give a soft, silky feel.
Inoredients/Function: wt%
Part A:
Deionized Water/Diluent 88.64
Disodium EDTA/Chelating agent 0.03
Citric Acid(lO% solution)/pH adjustment 0.03
Carbomer(l)/Gelling agent 0.40
Part B:
1,3 Butylene Glycol/Humectant 2.00
Glycerin(96%)/Humectant 3.50
Panthenol/Moisturizer/Provitamin B 0.30

Part C:
Phenyl Trimethicone(SF1550)(2)/Non-oily emollient 0.35
Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone(SF1214)(2)/
Breathable barrier, smooth, silky feel 3.00
Part D:
Sodium Hydroxide(lO% solution)/Neutralizer 1.60
Part E:
DMDM Hydantoin (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamatel
Preservative 0.15

Procedure:
1. Meter water of Part A into appropriate vessel. Add EDTA and
citric acid to the water and mix with propeller agitation
until dissolved. With moderate propeller agitation, slowly
add carbomer and when dissolved, mix an additional 20
minutes.
2. Add ingredients of Part B to Part A with moderate propeller
agitation.
3 . Add Part C to Part AB in order listed with moderate propeller
agitation. Mix 20-30 minutes with moderate agitation.
4. Add Part D to batch with sweep agitation and adjust pH to
7.2t-0.1.
5 . With sweep agitation, add Part E and mix for 30 minutes.

Trade Names/Suppliers:
(1) Carbopol ETD 2001, B.F. Goodrich Co.
( 2 ) GE Silicones

SOURCE: GE Silicones: Personal Care Formulary: Formula SP 115

76 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Moisturizins Frosted Lipstick

This lipstick goes on smoothly and has an excellent skin feel.
It is very long-lasting, and petrolatum adds superior
moisturizing characteristics.
Inqredient/Trade Name: Wt%
A: Castor Oil 51.99
Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide/Timiron MP-1001 4.44
Titanium Dioxide/Micro LA 2 0 0.89
FD&C Red # 4 0 Aluminum Lake 1.77
D&C Red # 2 7 Aluminum Lake 1.77
Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) D&C Red No. 30/
Colorona Imperial Red 1.77
B: Stearyl Alcohol 10.08
Candelilla Wax 7.81
Mineral Oil/Drakeol 2 1 6.21
Beeswax (and) Candelilla Wax (and) Hydogenated Soy
Glyceride (and) Paraffin (and) Carnauba (and)
Stearic Acid/Isobeeswax SP 1 5 4 3.55
Amber Petrolatum 2.66
Ozokerite Wax White SP 1020 2.48
Carnauba Wax SP 63 0.89
Cetyl Acetate/Pelemol CA 0.89
Isopropyl Palmitate 0.89
Acetylated Lanolin/Modulan 0.71
Wheat Germ Oil/Super Refined Wheat Germ Oil 0.44
Propylparaben 0.09
BHT 0.05
C: Fragrance 0.62
Homogenize part A until uniform. Heat part B to 60C with stir-
ring. Add part A . Heat to 8OC with stirring until the solids are
melted. Cool to 75C. Add fragrance. Pour into molds.
Formula 5 9 7 - 7 0
Lip Balm with Sunscreen
The high petrolatum level in this lip balm provides smooth
application and helps prevent chapped lips. The sunscreen gives
light UV protection.
~

Inqredient/Trade N a e L
Petrolatum/Amber Petrolatum 44.00
Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate/Ceraphyl 8 4 7 20.00
Beeswax (and) Candelilla Wax (and) Hydrogenated Soy
Glyceride (and) Paraffin (and) Carnauba (and)
Stearic Acid/Isobeeswax SP 1 5 4 10.00
Ozokerite Wax White S P 1020 8.70
Candelilla Wax 6.00
Stearyl Alcohol 5.00
Carnauba Wax SP 63 2.00
Mineral Oil/Drakeol 9 2.00
Octyl Methoxycinnamate/Parsol MCX 2.00
Butylparaben 0.20
BHT 0.10
Heat all ingredients to 8OC with stirring until melted. Pour
into molds and allow to cool.
Formula 591-83
SOURCE: Penreco: Suggested Formulations
 Beauty Aids 77

Niqht Time M o i s t u r . -
Concept Statement:
Lactylate based emulsion containing Ritasil 190 as a lubricant
Inqredients/Function: i!z%
1. Pationic SCL (Sodium Cocoyl Lactylate)/Lactylate 0.70
2 . Rita Cetearyl Alcohol 50/50 (Cetearyl Alcohol)/
Emulsifier 3.00
3 . Rita GMS (Glyceryl Stearate)/Emulsifier 3.00
4. Mineral Oil/Emollient 10.00
5. Rita IPP (Isopropyl Palmitate)/Emollient 2.00
6. Ritalan (Lanolin Oil)/Emollient 0.50
7. Ritasil 190 (Dimethicone Copolyol)/Lubricant 1-00
8. Distilled/Deionized Water 78.45
9. Acritamer 941 (Carbomer)/Thickener 0.15
10.Germaben IIE/Preservative 1.00
ll.TEA/Neutralizer 4.s.
12.Fragrance/Odor 0.20
Compounding Procedure:
Slowly disperse item 9 in item 8. Add item 11 to adjust pH
to 6.5-7.5 and heat to 80C. Separately combine items 1 to 7 and
heat to 80C. Add oil phase to water phase. Cool to 40C. Add
items 10 and 12.
LI Ref. No. 124-45

Aloe Vera MOiStUKiZeK

-
Concept Statement:
Excellent feel, containing Ritaloe and Pationic SBL for skin
conditioning.
Inqredients/Function: wtg
1. Pationic SBL (Sodium Behenyl Lactylate)/Lactylate 1.56
2. Rita Cetearyl Alcohol 5 0 / 5 0 (Cetearyl Alcohol)/
Emulsifier 2.00
3 . Rita GMS (Glyceryl Stearate)/Emulsifier 4.00
4. Ritachol (Mineral Oil and Lanolin Alcohol)/Emollient 2.00
5 . Lanolin USP X-Tra Deo/Emollient 0.50
6. Mineral Oil/Emollient 8.00
7. Ritasol (Isopropyl Lanolate)/Emollient 1.00
8. Ritaceti (Cetyl Esters)/Emollient 1.00
9. Propylparaben/Preservative 0.10
lO.Distilled/Deionized Water- 73.44
11.Propylene Glycol/Humectant 5.00
12.Ritaloe 200M (Aloe Vera Gel)/Moisturizer 1.00
13.Methylparaben/Preservative 0.20
14.DMDM Hydantoin/Preservative 0.20
Compounding Procedure:
Combine items 1 to 9 and heat to 80C. Combine items 10 to 13
and heat to 00C. Add oil phase to water phase with agitation.
Cool to 40C. Add item 14.
LI Ref. No. 124-54
SOURCE: R.I.T.A. Corp.: Facial Care Formulas
78 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

O/W-Skin Milk
Manufacturing at room temperature
Recipe: Wt%
A Hostaphat KL 340 N/Trilaureth-4 Phosphate 3.00
Mineral oil, high viscosity 10.00
Isopropyl palmitate 5.00
B Carbopol 980/Carbomer 0.45
C Glycerin 3.00
Caustic soda solution (10%) 1.80
Water 76.45
Preservative q.s.
D Fragrance 0.30

Procedure:
1. Mix A and B, then stir in C.
2. A d d D to 1.
3. Homogenize the emulsion.
Formula A VI/1101

O/W-Skin Milk
Manufacturing at room temperature
Recipe: kit%
A Hostaphat KL 3 4 0 N/Trilaureth-4 Phosphate 1.50
Hostacerin DGI/Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquiisostearate 2.00
Mineral oil, low viscosity 8.00
Isopropyl palmitate 6.00
Cetiol 868/0ctyl Stearate 5.00
B Carbopol 980/Carbomer 0.40
C Caustic soda solution (10%) 1.60
Water 75.20
Preservative q.s.
D Fragrance 0.30

Procedure:
1. Mix A and B, then add C dnd stir well.
2. A d d D to 1 while stirring.
3 . Finally homogenize the emulsion.
Formula A VI/1118
SOURCE: Hoechst Aktiengesellschaft: Guide Recipes
 Beauty Aids 79

O/W-Skinmilk
contains no ethylene oxide, manufacturing at room temperature
Recipe : Wt%
A Hostaphat CG 120/Isostearyl Phosphate 3.00
Mineral oil, low viscosity 4.00
Cetiol SN/Cetearyl Isononanoate 4.00
Cetiol 868/0ctyl Stearate 4.00
D-Panthenol 1.00
DL-Tocopherol acetate 1.00
B Carbopol 980/Carbomer 0.40
C Water 73.55
Glycerine 5.00
Caustic soda solution (10%) 3.10
Allantoin 0.30
Citric acid (10%) 0.25
Aquamollin BC highly conc. Pwd./Ethylendiamine
Tetraacetic Acid Sodium Salt 0.10
Preservative q.s.
D Fragrance 0.30
Procedure:
1. Add B to A.
2. Stir C into 1.
3 . Stir D into 2.
4. Homogenize the emulsion.
SOURCE: Hoechst Aktiengesellschaft: Formula A V I / l O O O

Moisturizinq Beauty Fluid

This smooth, very light lotion leaves the s k i n
feeling moisturized without being oily
Inqredient/Trade Name: Wt$
A Deionized Water 78.70
Glycerin 3.00
Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.50
Methylparaben 0.20
B Mineral Oil/Drakeol 7 4.00
Octyldodecanol Neopentanoate/Elefac 1-205 4.00
Glyceryl Stearate/Kessco Glyceryl Monostearate 3.50
PEG-40 Stearate/Myrj 52s 2.00
Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20/Lipowax D 1.50
Cetyl Alcohol/Lanette 16 1.00
Meadowfoam Seed Oil 1.00
Propylparaben 0.10
C Glycerin (and) Lecithin ( a n d ) Palmitoy1 Myristyl
Serinate/D erniacide 1.00
D Diazolidinyl Urea/Gerniall I 1 0.20
Fragrance q.s.
Procedure:
Heat part A to 75C with stirring. Heat part B to OOC with
stirring. Add part C to hot B with stirring and, when dissolved,
add this blend to part A with mixing. Continue stirring while
allowing the mixture to cool. At 40C, add part D. Continue
stirring to 30C.
SOURCE: Penreco: Suggested Formulation
80 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Pan Foundat-
Material : wt%
1 Part A:
2 PPG-2 Myristyl Ether Propionate 44.50
3 Talc 15.61
4 Pigments 13.94
5 Part B:
6 Unitwix 15.06
7 Super Refined Almond Oil 7.08
8 Stearic Acid 2.96
9 Cab-0-Sil M5 0.75
10 Fragrance 0.05
11 Propylparaben 0.05
Procedure:
1. Premix the pigments, talc and titanium dioxide of part A.
2. Add the pigment blend to the PPG-2 Myristyl Ether Propionate
while mixing with a low shear propeller blade at moderate
speed.
3. In a separate vessel weigh out the Unitwix and the Cab-0-Sil
M5. Heat gently with stirring to melt the Unitwix.
4. When the Unitwix is melted add the pigment blend and the
Super Refined Almond Oil and mix while heating to 80-85C.
5. Slowly add the remaining components.
6. When well blended remove the heat and cool with mixing to 5 5 C .
Pour into desired containers.
Formulation 97048-P

Moisturizins Face Wash

This unique face-wash formulation is based on the ability of
Lubrajel DV to provide significant moisturization as well as
body. The cleansing properties are provided by the sodium
laureth sulfate and Polysorbate 20. This product is character-
ized by its low foaming, creamy body and its pleasant, but
light fragrance.
Material : kit3
A Lubrajel DV 61.70
B Deionized Water 30.54
C Sodium Laureth Sulfate ( 2 8 % ) 7.50
D Polysorbate 20 0.25
E Fragrance 0.01

Procedure:
1. Using a paddle blade, mix components A and B.
2 . With very slow mixing, add component C.
3 . Premix components D and E before adding to step 2 . Mix until
homogeneous.
4. Package.
Formulation #92037-V
SOURCE: Guardian Laboratories: Suggested Formulations
 Beauty Aids 81

Pearlized Body Cleanser

The following formula provides copious, well lubricated
lather, excellent cleansing and a smooth afterfeel to the skin.
Insredients: wt%
Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate ( 2 8 % active) 46.4
Ammonium Xylene Sulfonate (40% active) 2.5
Water 13.1
Ammonium Lauryl Ether (2) Sulfate (26% active) 27.0
Promidium SY (PPG-3 Hydroxyethyl Soyamide) 4.0
Monateric CLV (Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate) 4.0
Phospholipid EFA (Linoleamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride
Phosphate) 2.0
Glycol Distearate 1.0
Procedure:
Mix ingredients in order listed. Heat to 65-7OC to blend
the Glycol Distearate into the mixture. Cool to 40-45C. Add
color, fragrance and preservative as required. Package.
Appearance: Pearled lotion
Viscosity (cP) @ 2 5 C : 5,000
Krafft Point: 1OC
Formula F-849

In!xed.Lents.
-. wt3
Di Water 31.1
Monafax MAP 230 20.5
Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (2) 30.9
Monateric CLV 9.5
Pricerine 9083 5.0
Phospholipid SV 3.0
Procedure:
Add water, Monafax MAP 230, AmNnonium Laureth Sulfate, Mona-
teric CLV and Pricerine 9083 with agitation. Heat ingredients
to 50-55C, add Phospholipid SV and itiix until uniform. Stir
cool to 30-35C, add preservative. Adjust pH with 50% Citric
Acid to 6.3-6.5.
Citric Acid 50%: 1.1
Typical Properties:
pH: 6.41
Viscosity: 3,500 CP
Krafft Point: 17C
Freeze/Thaw: Passed
Solids: 26.3%
Appearance: Clear Liquid
Formula F-839
SOURCE: Mona Industries, Inc.: Formula F-849 and F-839
82 Cosmetic and Toiletty Formulations

Powder to Cream Make-up

This stick application make-up provides a crecuny, long wear,
silky feel to the skin.
Sequence: Raw Material/INCI Name: Wt%
1 Panalane L-l4E/Hydrogenated Polysiobutene 36.20
1 Liponate 2DH/PEG-4 Diheptanoate 6.00
1 Carnauba Wax 6.50
1 Candelilla Wax 2.00
1 Liponate PS-4/Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate 4.00
1 Lip0 Lecithin 1.00
2 Ultra Talc #4006 16.00
2 Kaolin USP BC 8.00
2 Titanium Dioxide #3228 8.00
2 Iron Oxide Red 1.00
2 Iron Oxide Yellow 0.80
2 Iron Oxide Black 0.10
2 Lipomic 601 BN/Mica (and) Boron Nitride 10.00
2 Propylparaben 0.25
2 Methylparaben 0.15

Procedure:
1. In main kettle, combine Sequence # 1 ingredients under Light-
nin' mixing and heat to 8 0 - 8 5 C .
2. Blend Sequence #2 ingredients separately in a blender and
add to Sequence #l. Mix until uniformly dispersed. Cool to
15-8OC.
3 . At 75-80C pour batch into a suitable container f o r molding.

SOURCE: Lip0 Chemicals Inc.: Formula No. 100'1

 Beauty Aids 83

Powder Eve Shadow with Superior Peel

Tospearl 130A is a fine particle silicone resin, The sub-
micron spherical particles act as “ball bearings” providing
superior slip and lubricity. Tospearl provides a smooth, silky
feel, reduces pigment/powder agglomeration and enhances the
color of cosmetic products.
Inqredient/Function: wt%
Part A :
Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide/Pigment 6.4
Mica/Pigment 32.0
Iron Oxides/Pigment 3.0
Ultramarine/Pigment 12.7
Iron Blue/Pigment 18.9
Part B:
Polymethylsilsesquioxane (Tospearl 130A)(1)/ Slip/
Lubricity/Smooth, silky feel 19.5
Part C:
Dimethicone [SF96 (5)] (l)/Emollient 2.5
Squalene/Moisturizer 2.5
Petrolatum/Moisturizer 2.5
Fragrance q.s.
Preservative q.s.
Procedure:
1. Mix pigments in Part A except titanium dioxide and mica.
2. Add the titanium dioxide, mica, Part C (fragrance and pres-
ervative), and Part B to Part A with high shear mixing.
Add the fragrance and preservative with the same high shear
mixing.
3. Press into suitable containers.
Trade Names/Suppliers:
( 1 ) GE Silicones
Formula CC 106

Sruooth, Silky Eve Shadow

A formulation using SF1214 to provide slip and spreadability.

It gives a smooth, velvety feel, reduces creasing and provides
durability.
Inqredient/Function: Wt%
Mica (and) Iron Oxides (and) Titanium Dioxide (l)/Pigment 40.5
Talc/Powder Base 32.4
Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethicone (SF1214) (Z)/Smooth,
silky feel 13.6
Oleyl Erucate/Waxy emollient 13.5
Procedure:
1. Mill through a 0.027“ herringbone screen.
2. Press into a suitable container.
Trade Names/Suppliers:
(1) Timica Golden Bronze, Mearl Corp.
( 2 ) GE Silicones
Formula CC 105
SOURCE: GE Silicones: Personal Care Formulary
84 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

-
Powder Foundation With Smooth, Silky Feel
Tospearl 130A is a fine particle silicone resin. The sub-
micron spherical particles act as "ball bearings" providing
superior slip and lubricity. Tospearl provides a smooth, silky
feel, reduces pigment/powder agglomeration and enhances the
color of cosmetic products.
Inqredient:
Part A:
Talc 6.6
Titanium Dioxide/Pigment 19.2
Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide/Pigment 4.8
Iron Oxides/Pigment 11.2
Zinc Oxide/Pigment 6.2
Barium Sulfate/Pigment 13.7

Part B:
Dimethicone [SF96 ( 5 ) ] (l)/Emollient 5.5
Lanolin/Emollient 8.2
Petrolatum/Moisturizer 1.4
Liquid Petrolatum/Emollient i.4
Isopropyl Myristate/Emollient 1.4
Part C:
Polymethylsilsesquioxane (Tospearl 130A) (l)/Slip/
Lubricity/Smooth, silky feel 20.4
Part D:
Fragrance 4.s.
Preservative q.s.
Procedure:
1. Mill all of the pigments in Part A together.
2. Add Part B, Part C, and Part D to Part A with high shear
mixing,
3. Press into suitable containers.
Trade Names/Suppliers:
(1) GE Silicones
SOURCE: GE Silicones: Personal Care Formulary: Formula CC 103
 Beauty Aids 85

Pressed PRwder Makeup

This pressed powder makeup formulation exhibits excellent
pay-off and exceptional strength as compared to the same form-
ulation which contains mineral oil and sorbitan diisostearate
(2.5% each) in place of the Liibrajel Oil.
Material : wt%
A Mearl Talc TCA 36.60
B Zinc Stearate 11.00
C Shinju lOOT White 11.oo
D Mearl Mica SVA 8.00
E Mearlite GBU 5.00
F Flamenco Ultrasilk 2500 10.00
G Titanium Dioxide 2.00
H D&C Red #6 Barium Lake 3.40
I FD&C Yellow #5 Aluminum Lake 2.00
J Lubrajel Oil 5.00
K Cloisonne Super Gold 6.00
Procedure:
1. Components #1-#9 were combined and blended in a roller mill
until uniform. This was labeled as Phase "A".
2. Component #10 was added in several portions to Phase "A"
with blending in-between additions.
3. Component #11 then added and milling continued until uniform.
4. Powders were pressed to 1000 P S I using a Carver Press.

Materials :-
4.91
wt%
1 Lanolin Oil
2 Oleyl Alcohol 29.48
3 Super Sterol Ester (Croda) 7.37
4 Paraffin Wax 160/165 2.46
5 Unitwix 19.66
6 Fragrance 0.25
7 Castor Oil 21.62
8 Pigment Blend 14.25

Procedure:
Mill the pigment blend in the castor oil. Combine the remain-
ing ingredients with mixing and heat to 80-85C. Add the pigment/
castor oil blend to the remaining ingredients with mixing and
cool to desired fill temperature and mold.
Formulation 97048-R and 97048-S
SOURCE: Guardian Laboratories: Suggested Formulations
86 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Reqenerati ve Cg;l_-.(.PPereqen)
This clear, solid gel is suitable for intensive treatment of
tired or slightly damaged skin. Preregen restores the elasticity
of the skin.
Item: Inuredients/INCI N a m e : Wt%
1 A)Deionized Water 79.50
2 Glycerin 3.00
3 Phenonip 0.30
4 Imidazolidinyl Urea 0.20
5 Glucam P-lO/PPG-lO Methyl Glucose Ether 4.00
6 Carbopol Ultrez lO/Carbomer 1-00

7 B)Deionized Water 5.00

8 Triethanolamine 1.00

9 C)Preregen/Soybean (Glycine Soya) Protein, Oxido

Reductases 5.00
10 D)Solubilizer S12/Noxoxynol-14 0.80
11 Fragrance/Parfex 52255 0.20

Procedure:
Dissolve items 2-6 in water (1).
For thickening and neutralization add phase B).
Add item 9 to the ye1 and finally incorporate phase D).
Application No. D 037.0/08.96

L i p Gloss (Cerasol/Hvasol-BTl

This lip gloss contains Cerasol to strengthen the barrier

function and Hyasol-BT to add a pleasant feel and moisturizing
activity to the formulation. The obtained white wax is therefore
suitable for damaged and sensitive lips.
Item: Inqredients/INCI lim wt%
1 A)Cutina LM 60.00
2 Miglyol 812/Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 23.00
3 Cerasol 3.00
4 Eusolex 6300/4-Methylbenzylidine Camphor 1.00
5 Parsol 1789/Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 1.00
6 B)Arlamol 801 7.00
7 Hyasol-BT/Sodium Hyaluronate 5.00
Procedure:
Heat the ingredients of phdse A) to 70C.
Heat the ingredients of phase B) to 75C.
Under stirring add phase B) to phase A) and stir until mass
becomes solid.
Application No. X 001.A/12.97
SOURCE: Pentapharm Ltd.: Suggested Formulations
 Beauty Aids 87

Sand Beiqe MakeuD (Oil-Free1

This formulation utilizes Eastman AQ55S polymer to improve

wearability and water resistance while aiding pigment dispersion.
Formu 1a : Wt%
Part A:
Distilled Water 58.44-60.44
Eastman AQ55S Polymer 2.00- 4.00
Veegum (Magnesium Aluminum Silicate) 1.00
Cellulose Gum (Na CMC) 0.25
Propylene Glycol 8.00
Carbowax PEG 200 1.00
Triethanolamine 99% 0.90
Trisodium EDTA 0.20
Part B:
Talc, Lo-Micron 5.00
Titanium Dioxide 3328 5.32
Iron Oxide, Red C33-8075 0.32
Iron Oxide, Yellow C33-8073 0.64
Iron Oxide, Black C33-134 0.13
Part C:
Dow Corning 3225C 9.00
Stearic Acid 1.80
Polawax, NF 1.00
Myverol 18-06 Monoglyceride 2.00
Polysorbate 60 1.00
Part D:
Preservative q.s.
Procedure:
Part A:
Heat water to 80C. Slowly sift Eastrnan AQ55S polymer into
water with continuous stirring. Dispersion should be complete
in 20-30 minutes,
Slowly sprinkle in Veegum and cellulose gum. Mix at maximum
available shear until uniform.
Add remaining Part A ingredients and mix well.
Part B:
Combine and mix ingredients until homogeneous.
Add Part B to Part A with mixing. Maintain temperature at
80C.
Part C:
Combine ingredients and heat with mixing to 80C.
Add Part C to Parts A+B. Mix while cooling.
Part D:
At 40C, add Part D and mix until uniform.
SOURCE: Eastman Chemical Co.: Formulation X22001-200
88 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Silk Cleansinq Foam

Raw Materials: Wt%
A Phase:
Solulan 75 3.0
Myristic acid 15.0
Stearic acid, XXX 11.0
Hydrogenated beef tallow 3.0
Lauric acid isopropanolamide 5.0
Propyl paraben 0.1
B Phase:
TEA-lauryl sulfate (50% aq. S o h ) 15.0
Na-Lauroyl sarcosinate (30% aq. Soln.) 17.0
Glucam E-20 5.0
Propylene glycol 5.0
Silkpro 2.0
KOH 5.0
Water 13.8
Methyl paraben 0.1
Procedure:
Add the B phase at 8 5 C to the A phase at 85C, while stirring.
Continue mixing and cool to 30C. Dissolve A phase at 85C and
continue stirring to 7 0 C . Add B phase at 70C to A phase. Add C
phase at 70C to (A+B) phase. Continue mixing and cool to 30C.

Silky Makeup Base

Raw Materials: wt%
Silk Concentrate:
Silkall 100 5.0
Pigments 10.0
Span 60 2.5
Isopropyl palmitate 2.0
A Phase:
Stearic acid, XXX 15.0
B Phase:
Tween 60 1.5
Propylene glycol 10.0
Water 54.0
Perfume and Preservatives 4.s.

Procedure:
Prepare silk concentrate using sufficient mixing and grinding
to produce a fine dispersion. Heat the phase A to 8 5 C . Add silk
concentrate to the phase A with mixing. Heat the phase B to 85C.
Add the phase B to silk concentrate at 85C and continue mixing
to the room temperature.
SOURCE: Polyesther Corp.: Suggested Formulations
 Beauty Aids 89

Silk Moisturizinq MakeuD

Raw Materials: wtg
Silk Concentrate:
Silkall 100 2.0
Titanium dioxide, U.S.P. 0.5
Pigments 4.5
A Phase:
Amerchol L-101 2.0
Ohlan 1.0
Mineral oil, 70 vis. 10.0
Silicone fluid 10.0
Stearic acid, XXX 15.0
Triethanolamine 4.0

B Phase:
Propylene glycol 5.0
Water 46.0
Perfume and Preservatives q.s
Procedure:
Prepare silk concentrate using sufficient mixing and grinding
to produce a fine dispersion. Heat the phase A to 85C. Add silk
concentrate to the phase A with mixing. Heat the phase B to 85C.
Add the phase B to silk concentrate at 85C and continue mixing
to the room temperature.

Compact Rouqe
Raw Materials: Wt%
Silkall 100 5.0
Talc 77.1
Titanium dioxide 5.0
Color 2.7
Perfume 0.2
Emulsion binder 10.0
(Formula for binder):
Light mineral oil 25.0
Sorbitan sesquioleate 10.0
Water 64.8
Methyl paraben 0.1
Propyl paraben 0.1
Procedure:
This binder is manufactured according to the procedure for
making a good emulsion. It is rather unstable and should be
mixed well before staying into rouge. Mix all ingredients until
uniform.
SOURCE: Polyesther Corp.: Suggested Formulations
90 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Silk Translucent Pressed Po-

Raw Materials: Wt%
Acetulan 1.0
Zinc stearate 6.0
Kaolin 2.0
Talc 46.8
Silkall 100 20.0
Titanium dioxide c:oated mica 10.0
Pigments 12.0
Propyl paraben 0.1
Methyl paraben 0.1

Procedure:
Mix all ingredients except Acetulan in a blender. Spray or
add Acetulan binder. Micronize, then press.

-
Liquid Silk Foundation
Raw Materials: wt%
A Phase:
Glyceryl monostearate, s.e. 1.0
Stearic acid, xxx 2.5
Lanogene 3.0
Span 80 0.8
Isopropyl myristate 5.0
Amerchol L-101 3.0
Silicone 200, 3 5 0 cstks. 0.8
Solulan 98 2.0
Squalane 6.0
Promulgen D 2.0
Silkall 100 2.0
P igments 8.0
Propyl paraben 0.1

B Phase:
Super refined Bentonite ( 4 % aq. Soln.) 25.0
Sodium carboxy methyl cellulose ( 2 % aq. Soln.) 15.0
Triethanolamine 1.2
Propylene glycol 5.0
Water 17.5
Methyl paraben 0.1

SOURCE: Polyesther Corp.: Suggested Formulations

 Beauty Aids 91

Silkv Cake Eveshadow

Raw Materials:
Silk concentrate:
Titanium dioxide coated mica 34.8
Silkall 100 20.0
Talc 5.0
Kaolin 9.0
Zinc stearate 8.0
Color 15.0
Binder:
Isopropy1 niyristate 5.5
Acetulan 2.5
Propyl paraben 0.2
Procedure:
Mix the silk concentrate until uniform. And add the binder
to silk concentrate, mix well, micronize then press.

Silky Lipstick
Raw Materials: Wt%
Candelilla wax 5.0
Beeswax 2.0
Microcrystalline wax (m.p. 78.4 C ) 8.0
Carnauba wax 2.5
Amerlate P 5.0
Isopropyl myristate 10.0
Oleyl alcohol 21.0
Amerchol L-101 5.0
Propyl paraben 0.2
Silkall 100 2.0
Color 5.0
Castor oil 23.3
Perfume 1.0
Titanium dioxide coated mica 10.0

Procedure:
In a suitable steam jacketed stainless steel mixing kettle,
add first 12 ingredients in order listed and heat to 85C, cool
to 6 5 C . Pass through three-roller mill. Place mass back into
mixer, reheat to 85C. Admix the last two ingredients. Cool to
70-75C. Mold, wrap and label.
SOURCE: Polyesther Corp.: Suggested Formulations
92 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Skin G e l m
___.__

with ASC I11

Raw Materials: wt%

A Almond oil (Sweet Almond (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis) Oil 7.00
Miglyol 812 neutral oil (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) 4.00
Oxynex K liquid (Art. No. 108324) (PEG-8 (and) Toco-
pherol (and) Ascorbyl Palmitate (and) Ascorbic Acid
(and) Citric Acid) 0.50
Luvitol EHO (Cetearyl Octanoate) 4.50
Eutanol G (Octyldodecanol) 5.00
Cetiol V (Decyl Oleate) 5.00
B Sorbitol F liquid (Art. No. 102993) 4.00
Tris(hydroxymethy1)-aminomethane (Art. No. 108386)
(Tromethamine) 0.40
Preservatives q.s
Water, demineralized ad 100.00
C Pemulen TR-1 (Acrylates/ClO-30 Alkyl Acrylate Cross-
polymer ) 0.40
Water, demineralized 29.60
D ASC 111 (Art. No. 110154) (Lecithin (and) Dipalmitoyl
Hydroxyproline (and) Beta-Sito-Sterol (and) Linoleic
Acid (and) Tocopherol (and) Sodium Ascobate (and)
Mannitol) 4.00

Procedure:
Disperse the Pemulen TR-1 in the water of phase C and let
swell. Incorporate phase B into phase C while homogenizing.
Dissolve phase A and add small amounts to phases B/C during
homogenization. Add phase D and homogenize again.
Note:
pH23C=6.3
Viscosity 21,000 mPas (Brookfield RVT, spindle C, 5 rpm) @ 23C
Samples contain as preservatives:
0.05% Propyl-4-hydroxybenzoate (Merck Art. No. 107427)
0.15% Methyl-4-hydroxybenzoate (Merck Art. No. 106757)
SOURCE: Rona-Merck: Formulation 14-37/G
 Beauty Aids 93

-Skin
_ Liqhteninq Emulsion
The light emulsion associates 2 skin lighteners: Purac BF P/41
and Dermacare HS plus botanical betaglucans or a good skin-light-
ening effect.
Inqredient: Wt%
A. Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate 1.50
Glyceryl stearate (and) ceteth-20 1.50
Cetyl alcohol 3.00
Cetearyl isononanoate 2.00
Cyclomethicone 9.00
Dimethicone 2.00
Preservative 0.35
A. Water (aqua), deionized qs to 100.00
Preservative qs
Titanium dioxide 4.00
Xanthan gum 0.30
Magnesium aluminum silicate 1.50
A. Purasal S/PF 60 (Sodium lactate) 8-9.5
Purac PH 90 (Lactic acid) 0 . 5 - 2 to required pH
Dermawhite HS (Laboratories Serobiologiques) 2.00
A. Cassia augustifolia seed polysaccharides (Indinyl CA) 3.00
B. Fragrance (parfum) 0.40
Procedure:
Prepare A and B separately at 75 degrees Celsius under
turbine stirring. Add A into B under turbine stirring. Follow
stirring, and cool to 60 degrees Celsius. At 60 degrees Celsius
stop the turbine and follow stirring with planetary. At 50
degrees Celsius, add C and D. At 40 degrees Celsius, add E.
Cool to room temperature.
Formula from Laboratories Serobiologiques

Anti Acne Cleansing

Moisturisins Anti-Acne C r e a m
Inqredient: Wt%
Mineral oil ( 2 5 cS at 2 5 C ) 10.00
Polawax GP200 (Nonionic emulsifying wax) 8.00
GMS A/S (Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100) 4.00
Crodamol IPM (Isopropyl Myristate) 3.00
Silicone 2 0 0 / 1 0 0 (Dimethicone) 1.00
Parsol MCX (Octyl methoxycinnamate) 1.50
Water deionised to 100
Croderol GA 7 0 0 0 (glycerin) 4.00
Purasal S/PF 90 8-18
Purac PH 90 0.08-0.23
Tocopherol acetate 0.5
Perfume. Preservative, Colour qs
Croda Formulation
SOURCE: Purac America Inc.: Suggested Formulations
94 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Skin Oi 1- Emu1s ifY inq

Raw Materials: Wt%

A. Imwitor 375 (Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate) 10
Miglyol 8 1 0 (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) 40
Miglyol 8 4 0 (Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate) 20
Softigen 701 (Glyceryl Ricinoleate) 1
Mineral Oil 28.6
B. Fragrance 0.4
Preparation:
Components of A are put together, slightly warmed up and
stirred homogeneously. Then B is added.

Cleansinq Milk

Raw Materials: wtq,

A. Imwitor 9 6 0 flakes (Glyceryl Stearate SE) 6
Imwitor 375 (Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate) 3
Dynacerin 660 (Oleyl Erucate) 1
Miglyol 8 4 0 (Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate) 5
Sweet Almond Oil 5
Cetyl Alcohol 0.5
B. Keltrol Gel 1% (hydrogel based on xanthan) 7
Preservative 4.53.
Water ad 100
C. Fragrance q.s.
Preparation:
A is heated up to 7 5 C . B is brought to the same temperature
and emulsified into A. C is added at about 30C.

Skin Milk

Raw Materials: Wt%

A. Miglyol 8 1 2 (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) 5
Dynacerin 660 (Oleyl Erucate) 5
Softisan 378 (Caprylic/Capric/Stearic Triglyceride) 4
Imwitor 375 (Glyceryl Citrate/Laurate/Linoleate Oleate) 3
Emulgade F 5
Isopropyl Myristate 4
Silicon Oil AR 200 3
B. Carbopol 9 8 0 gel 1% 10
Water ad 100
C. Fragrance q.s.
Preparation:
A is blended and heated up to about 7 5 C . B is brought to the
same temperature and emulsified by portions into A. C is added
at about 30C.
SOURCE: Huls Aktiengesellschaft: Suggested Formulations
 Beauty Aids 95

-__-
Skin-Whitenins/Skin-Liqhteninq
Skin-Whiteninq Cream
Insredients: wt%
Mineral Oil 10.00
Polawax 8.00
GMS 4.00
Crodamol 3.00
Silicone 1.00
Parsol 1.50
Water deionised to 100
Croderol GA 7 0 0 0 (glycerin) 4.00
Purasal S/PF 6 0 13-20
Purac PH 90 0.10-0.25
Tocopherol acetate 0.5
Perfume, Preservative, Colour qs
Give formulation is based on world standard formulation.
Asia Pacific customers do prefer sometimes a less greasy/eticky
formulation and/or improve stability at higher temperatures:
Reduce Stickiness/Greasiness:
* Exchange mineral oil for an emollient ester, Crodamol OP,
which is branch chains and imparts a light emollience on
the skin. and/or:
* Add fatty alcohol level to impart dryness to the skin.
Note, that increase of fatty alcohol increases the body
of the emulsion. and/or:
* Other emollients that may be suitable to replace mineral
oil; Crodamol AB or CAP. They act as a solvent for the
Parsol MCX and aid solubilisation.
Improve Temperature Stability ( > 5 0 C ) :
* Add thickenins agent in water phase; such as cellulose,
guar gum or natukal clay thickening-agent.
* Other alternative: add higher melting point wax, possibly
Syncrowax.
SOURCE: Purac America, Inc.: Croda Formulation
96 Cosmetic and Toiletfy Formulations

___
Smooth Si1kv_.lundation
This smooth silky foundation uses Tospearl 130A, fine part-
icle silicone resin. The sub-micron spherical particles act as
"ball bearings" providing superior slip and lubricity. Tospearl
130A provides a smooth, silky feel, reduces pigment/powder agg-
lomeration and enhances the color of cosmetic foundations. This
foundation has demonstrated the use of silicones in conjunction
with organics.

Inqredient/Function: Wt%
Part A:
Panalane L-l4E/Emollient 10
Bis-Phenylpropyl Dimethicone(SF1555)(1)/Emollient 10
C30-45 Alkyl D i m e t h i c o n e ( S F 1 6 4 2 ) ( 1 ) / T h i c k e n e r , Emollient 2
PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate/Secondary Emulsifier 1.0
Part B:
Titanium Dioxide/Pigment 5.0
Yellow Iron Oxide/Pigment 1.3
Red Iron Oxide/Pigment 0.6
Black Iron Oxide/Pigment 0.1
Polymethylsilsesquioxane (Tospearl 130A)(l)/Lubricity
and Feel 3

Part C:
Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone Copolyol(SF1528)(1)/
Primary Emulsifier 15
Part D:
Waterpehicle q.s.
Butylene Glycol/Hurnectant 2
NaCl/Stabilizer 1.0
Quaternium-l5/Preservative 0.1

Procedure:
1. Combine Part A and heat to 60-65C. Mix until uniform.
2. Mill Part B and add to Part A.
3. Add SF1528 to the batch.
4. In a separate vessel, mix all ingredients of Part D. Heat
to 60-65C.
5. Slowly add water phase to oil phase under moderate mixing.
6. Homogenize for 1-2 minutes.
Suppliers:
(1) GE Silicones
SOURCE: GE Silicones: Personal Care Formulary: Formula CClO8
 Beauty Aids 97

SDravahle Skin Gel

This non-aerosol, low viscosity, clear gel is used in a pump
delivery system. It contains Liponic EG-1, Unimoist U-125 and
Hylucare to provide complete moisturizing properties. The use
of Hypan SA-100H aids in the reduction/elinination of any
potentia1 tackiness.
Sequence: Raw MaterialJINCI Name: Wt$
1 Deionized Water 86.65
1 Uniphen P-23 0.30
2 Hypan SA-lOOH/Acrylic Acid/Acrylonitrogens
Copolymer 0.10
Liponic EG-l/Glycereth-26 2.50

Viscarin SD 389/Carageenan 1.00

Deionized Water 1.00

Triethanolamine, 99% 0.20
Deionized Water 1.00
Unicide U-l3/Imidazolidinyl Urea 0.25
HTL MYP Hyluronic Acid 1% sol'n 5.00
Unimoist U-125 2.00
Procedure:
1. Heat Sequence #1 to 80C on overhead mixer at medium/high
speed.
2 . Slowly add Sequence # 2 into Sequence #1 while mixing at
medium/high speed.
3. Add Sequence # 3 to batch at medium/high speed.
4. Add premixed Sequence # 4 at medium speed. Cool to 35C.
5. Add premixed Sequence #5 at medium/low speed. Cool to 25C.
6. Add premixed Sequence #6 at medium/low speed.

Specifications:
pH: 7.8t-0.2
Viscosity: LVT #3 @ 12 rpm=7,500 cpst-10%
SOURCE: Lip0 Chemicals Inc.: Formula No. 9 7 2
98 Cosmetic and Toiletty Formulations

--__
Substantive Lip Balm with Sunscreen
SF1318, silicone resin ester, is a copolymer of a silicone
resin and a long-chain organic ester. It provides excellent
compatibility with organic materials and substantivity to the
skin. It is commonly used to enhance the durability of cosmetic
products. In this formulation, SF1318 provides a substantive
film which makes the lip balm very durable, providing moistur-
ization as well as sun protection for several hours. Pigments
could be added to make a colored lip gloss product.
Inqredient/Function: Wt%
Part A:
Lily White Petrolatum/Moisturizer 35.87
Mineral Oil/Emollient 11.00
Castor Oil/Emollient 10.00
Diisostearoyl Trimethylolpropane Siloxy Silicate
(SF1318) (l)/Film-former/Emollient 20.00
Propylparaben/Preservative 0.10
Candelilla Wax/Wax matrix 4.00
Yellow Beeswax/Wax matrix 3.00
Ozokerite Wax/Wax matrix 6.00
Carnauba Wax/Wax matrix 3.00
Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Wax matrix 0.50
Tocopherol/Vitamin E/Antioxidant 0.03
Part B:
Octyl Methoxycinnamate/UV Absorber 6.00

Part C:
Flavoring (2) 0.50

Procedure:
1. Combine Part A ingredients in order listed and heat with
agitation to 85-9OC. Mix at temperature for approximately
15 minutes.
2. Cool to 75C. Add Part B with good agitation.
3. Add Part C to Part AB with agitation and mix for 10 minutes.
Pour into containers at 75C.
Trade Names/Suppliers:
(1) GE Silicones
(2) Pineapple Flavor 4-430, Glidco
SOURCE: GE Silicones: Personal Care Formulary: Formula CC 100
 Beauty Aids 99

-
Total-
Block,Liusloss
Inqredients/CTFA Name: Wtg
Ozokerite FFW/Ozokerite 3.0
Multiwax W445/Microcrystalline Wax 10.0
Cetyl Alcohol 3.0
Modulan/Acetylated Lanolin 19.9
Schercemol TISC/Triisostearyl Citrate 25.0
Indopol HlOO/Polybutene 22.0
Dipsal/Dipropylene Glycol Salicylate 1.0
NeoHeliopan AV/Octyl Methoxycinnamate 7.5
NeoHeliopan BB/Benzophenone-3 4.5
Propylparaben 0.1
Colors 4.0
Fragrance q.s.

Procedure:
Weigh and heat all ingredients except for pigments and
fragrance, gently to 70C on a steambath until uniform. Remove
from heat. Add remaining inyredients and mix slowly to 35C.
Pour into pots.
Formula SK-136

Chapstick with-Vitamins
Inqredients/CTFA Name: Wt%
Petrolatum 47.3
Isopropyl Lanolate 6.0
Ozokerite Wax 16.5
Candelilla Wax 4.5
Schercemol DID/Diisopropyl Dilinoleate 25.0
Vitamin A Palmitate 0.5
Vitamin E Acetate 0.2
Fragrance q.s.

Procedure:
Heat all ingredients to 75-60C until melted and uniform.
Cast into molds.
Formula SK-139
SOURCE: Scher Chemicals, Inc.: Formulas SK-136 and SK-139
100 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Total Block Limloss

Inqredients/CTFA Name: wt%
Ozokerite FFW/Ozokerite 3.0
Mu1 tiwax W445;Microcrystall ine Wax 9.0
Modulan/Acetylated Lanolin 19.9
Schercemol TISC/Triisostearyl Citrate 20.0
Indopol HlOO/Polybutene 22.0
Schercemol DID/Diisopropyl Dimer Dilinoleate 7.0
Dipsal/Dipropylene Glycol Salicylate 3.0
NeoHeliopan AV/Octyl Methoxycinnamate 7.5
NeoHeliopan BB/Benzophenone-3 4.5
Propylparaben 0.1
Colors 4.0
Fragrance c3.s
Procedure:
Weigh and heat all ingredients, except for pigments and
fragrance, gently to 70C on a steambath until uniform. Remove
from heat. Add remaining ingredients and mix slowly to 35C.
Pour into pots.
Formulation SK 137

LiDsloss with Sunscreen

Inqredients/CTFA Name: wt%
Schercemol TISC/Triisostearvl Citrate 59.4
Candelilla Wax 8.0
Myristyl Lactate 7.5
Microcrystalline Wax 5.0
Carnauba Wax 2.0
Schercemol DID/Diisopropyl Dimer Dilinoleate 10.0
Propylparaben 0.1
Mica (and) Bismuth Oxychloride (and) Carmine 6.0
Zinc Oxide (Z-Cote, Micronized ZnO) 2.0

Procedure:
Heat all ingredients (except last two) to 75-80C or until
melted and uniform. Add pigment and zinc oxide. Mix until homo-
geneous. Cast into molds.
Formulation SK 84
SOURCE: Scher Chemicals, Inc.: Suggested Formulations
 Beauty Aids I01

Undereve and Spot Concealer Makeup Usins Avalure UR 4 4 5 Polymer

A0003
This undereye and spot concealer makeup can be applied either
from an automatic unit containing a brush for application or
from a tube with a narrow opening. The urethane polymer contrib-
utes to the long lasting film forming properties while providing
improved adhesion to the spot or area being covered. It is also
a good substitute for the pigment suspending capabilities of
colloidal clay, so common to these types of products.
INCI-CTFA Name/Trade Name:
Part A :
m
1. Deionized Water 58.95
2 . Methylparaben NF 0.10
3. Methocel 40-202 0.20
4 . Triethanolamine (99%) 1.00
5. DL-Panthenol USP 0.30
6. Avalure UR 445 Polymer 2.50
7 . Protachem GL-26/Glycereth-26 4.50
Part B:
8. Mica/Sericite GMS-4C 5.00
9. Kaolin 2451 0.50
10.Titanium Dioxide 3328 USP Anatase Type 3.20
11.C33-7715 Cosmetic Brown/Iron Oxides 0.50
12.C33-7738 Cosmetic Russet/Iron Oxides 0.10
13.C33-7773 Cosmetic Yellow/Iron Oxides 0.40
14.C33-7775 Cosmetic Red/Iron Oxides 0.10
15.C33-7734 Cosmetic Black/Iron Oxides 0.05
Part C:
16. Emersol 132/Stearic Acid 3.00
17. Protachem GMS-450/Glyceryl Stearate 3.00
18. Protachem IPP/Isopropyl Palmitate 2.00
19. Elfac I205/0ctyldodecyl Neo-Pentanoate 1.00
2 0 . Eutanol G/Octyldodecanol 2.00
21. Lipovol G/Grape Seed Oil 0.50
22. Lipovol J/Jojoba Oil 3.00
23. Propyl Paraben 0.10
Part D:
24. Dow Corning 245 Fluid/Cyclomethicone 7.00
25. Vitamin E Acetate/Tocopheryl Acetate 0.10
26. Vitamin A Palmitate/Retinyl Palmitate 0.10
2 7 . Actiphyte of Aloe Vera/Aloe Extract 0.10
28. Germaben I1 0.50
Continued Next Page
102 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Undereve and Spot Concealer Makeup Usinq Avalure UR 4 4 5 Polvmer

A 0 0 0 3 (Continued)

Properties:
Color, Odor, Appearance: Pigmented, moderately thick cream
with slight wax-like odor
pH: 7 . 5 - 0 . 0
Viscosity* CP at 25C: 5,000-6,000
*Brookfield RVT @ 20 rpm, # 4 spindle
Preparation Procedure:
Part A:
1. Add the deionized water to a suitable kettle and then add the
methylparaben.
2. Heat the water to 35C to dissolve the methylparaben and then
add the methocel.
3 . Continue mixing until the methocel is dispersed and no lumps
appear.
4 . Add the triethanolamine and mix until the solution is clear.
Add the Panthenol and mix until dissolved.
5. Add the Avalure UR 445 polymer and mix until it is dispersed
and a colloidal white solution occurs.
6. Add the Glycereth-26 and heat to 75C.
Part B:
I . Mix all of the powders together and mill if necessary until
the blend is uniform and no streaks or particles of pigment
are present.
8. Add this powder blend to Part A and mix until ready to com-
bine with Part C.
Part C :
9. Mix all of the ingredients of Part C in a suitable vessel
and heat to 15C.
10.After all of the ingredients are completely melted, add
Part C to Parts A&B and continue mixing until the emulsion
forms.
Part D:
11. Begin cooling the combined batch to IOC and add the cyclo-
methicone. Mix well to insure that the cyclomethicone is
brought into the emulsion and is uniformly dispersed.
Continue cooling and mixing.
12. Add vitamins at 45C and mix well.
1 3 . Add aloe and mix well.
1 4 . Add the Germaben I1 and continue cooling to room temperature

SOURCE: BFGoodrich Specialty Chemicals: Formulation A0003

 Beauty Aids 103

Waterproof Mascara
SF1318, silicone resin ester, is a copolymer of a silicone
resin and a long-chain organic ester. It provides excellent
compatibility with organic materials, excellent substantivity
and is totally non-irritating to the eyes and skin. It is
commonly used to enhance the durability of cosmetic products.
In this formulation, SF1318 provides a film which is water
resistant, smear resistant, non-flaking and non-irritating to
the eyes.

Inqredient/Functia Wt%
Part A:
Deionized Water/Diluent 51.45
Propylene Glycol/Hurnectant 3.0
Methylparaben/Preservative 0.2
Imidazolidinyl Urea/Preservative 0.15
Triethanolamine 99%/Neutralizer/Emulsifier 3.10
Acrylates/Octylacrylamine Copolymer/Dermacryl-79/
Film-former 5.00
Part B:
Diisostearoyl Trimethylolpropane Siloxy Silicate
(SF1318)/Film-former/Emollient 5.00
Candelilla Wax/Wax matrix 4.50
Yellow Beeswax/Wax matrix 5.50
Ozokerite Wax/Wax matrix 2.00
Carnauba Wax/Wax matrix 1.00
Cetyl Alcohol/Thickener/Secondary emulsifier 3.00
Stearic Acid/Primary emulsifier 5.00
Propylparaben/Preservative 0.10
Part C:
Iron Oxides/Pigment 11.00
Procedure:
1. While heating Part A water to 9OC, add remaining ingredients
in order listed with moderate propeller agitation.
2 . Combine Part B and heat to 9OC with moderate propeller agit-
ation. When Part B reaches 9OC, add Part C to Part B with
high shear homomixer agitation (Silverson with square hole
screen) for 30-40 minutes.
3 . Add Part BC SLOWLY to Part A at 85-9OC with moderate prop-
eller agitation. Mix 10 minutes and begin force-cooling with
propeller and sweep agitation to room temperature.
SOURCE: GE Silicones: Personal Care Formulary: Formulation CC 101