© Lonely Planet Publications

13

Contents
The Authors 20 Getting Around
Around Gaborone
91
92
EASTERN BOTSWANA 93
Getting Started 23 Serowe
Khama Rhino Sanctuary
93
94
Francistown 95
Itineraries 28 North-East Tuli Game
Reserve 97
MAKGADIKGADI PANS 97
Snapshot Nata 99
Southern Africa 36 Sowa (Sua) Pan
Gweta
99
100
Ntwetwe Pan 100
History 37 Makgadikgadi & Nxai Pan
National Park 100
CHOBE NATIONAL PARK 101
The Culture 42 Kasane & Kazungula
Chobe Riverfront
101
105
Savuti 106
Music in Linyanti Marshes 106
Southern Africa 52 OKAVANGO DELTA
Maun
106
106

59
Eastern Delta 112
Environment Inner Delta 112
Moremi Game Reserve 114
The Okavango Panhandle 116
Wildlife Guide 69 Gcwihaba Caverns
(Drotsky’s Cave) 117

77
Aha Hills 117
Botswana Tsodilo Hills 117
Highlights 78 THE KALAHARI 118
Itineraries 78 Khutse Game Reserve 118
Climate & When to Go 78 Central Kalahari Game
Reserve 119
History 78
Ghanzi 121
The Culture 83
D’Kar 121
Arts 84
Kgalagadi Transfrontier
Environment 84 Park 121
Food & Drink 85 BOTSWANA DIRECTORY 122
GABORONE 86 Accommodation 122
History 87 Activities 123
Orientation 87 Books 123
Information 87 Business Hours 124
Sights 87 Children 124
Activities 89 Customs 124
Festivals & Events 89 Dangers & Annoyances 124
Sleeping 89 Embassies & Consulates 124
Eating 90 Festivals & Events 125
Entertainment 91 Holidays 125
Shopping 91 Internet Access 125
Getting There & Away 91 Internet Resources 125
14 CONTENTS

Language 125 Quthing 150 Rumphi 181

Maps 125 LESOTHO DIRECTORY 151 Nyika National Park 181
Money 125 Accommodation 151 Vwaza Marsh Wildlife
Post 126 Activities 151 Reserve 184
Telephone & Fax 126 Books 152 Mzuzu 185
Tourist Information 126 Business Hours 152 Nkhata Bay 188
Visas 126 Customs 152 Around Nkhata Bay 191
Work 126 Dangers & Annoyances 152 Chintheche Strip 191
TRANSPORT IN Embassies & Consulates 153 Likoma Island 192
BOTSWANA 126 Chizumulu Island 194
Festivals & Events 153
Getting There & Away 126 CENTRAL MALAWI 194
Holidays 153
Getting Around 129 Viphya Plateau 194
Internet Resources 153
Kasungu 196
134
Language 153
Lesotho Maps 153 Kasungu National Park 196
Money 153 Nkhotakota 196
Highlights 135
Post 154 South of Nkhotakota 197
Itineraries 135
Telephone 154 Nkhotakota Wildlife
Climate & When to Go 135
Reserve 197
History 135 Tourist Information 154
Salima 198
The Culture 139 Visas 154
Senga Bay 198
Religion 139 TRANSPORT IN LESOTHO 154
Mua 200
Arts & Crafts 139 Getting There & Away 154
Monkey Bay 200
Environment 139 Getting Around 155
Cape Maclear 201
Food & Drink 140
157
Monkey Bay to Mangochi 204
MASERU 140
Orientation 141
Malawi Mangochi 205
Highlights 158 SOUTHERN MALAWI 206
Information 141
Itineraries 158 Liwonde 206
Dangers & Annoyances 141
Climate & When to Go 158 Liwonde National Park 206
Tours 141
History 158 Zomba 208
Sleeping 141
The Culture 162 Zomba Plateau 210
Eating 143
Sport 164 Blantyre & Limbe 212
Shopping 143
Religion 164 Around Blantyre 218
Getting There & Away 143
Arts & Crafts 164 Mulanje 219
Getting Around 143
Environment 166 Mount Mulanje 219
Around Maseru 143
Food & Drink 167 Lower Shire 224
NORTHERN LESOTHO 144
LILONGWE 167 MALAWI DIRECTORY 226
Teyateyaneng 145
History 168 Accommodation 226
Leribe 145
Orientation 168 Activities 226
Highlands Water Project 145
Information 168 Books 227
Butha-Buthe 146
Dangers & Annoyances 171 Business Hours 228
Oxbow 146
EASTERN LESOTHO 146 Sights & Activities 171 Children 228
Thaba-Tseka 146 Tours 172 Customs 228
Mokhotlong 147 Sleeping 172 Dangers & Annoyances 228
Sani Top 147 Eating 174 Embassies & Consulates 228
Sehlabathebe National Drinking & Entertainment 175 Festivals & Events 229
Park 147 Shopping 175 Holidays 229
Qacha’s Nek 148 Getting There & Away 175 Internet Access 229
SOUTHERN LESOTHO 148 Getting Around 176 Internet Resources 229
Semonkong 148 Around Lilongwe 176 Language 229
Morija 149 NORTHERN MALAWI 177 Maps 229
Malealea 149 Karonga 177 Money 229
Mafeteng 150 Chitimba 179 Photography & Video 230
Mohale’s Hoek 150 Livingstonia 179 Post 230
 CONTENTS 15

Telephone 230 Vilankulo 265 Internet Resources 295

Tourist Information 231 Bazaruto Archipelago 267 Legal Matters 295
Visas 231 Inhassoro 267 Maps 295
Volunteering 231 CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE 268 Money 295
TRANSPORT IN MALAWI 231 Beira 268 Telephone 296
Getting There & Away 231 Gorongosa National Park 270 Tourist Information 296
Getting Around 233 Mount Gorongosa 270 Visas 297
Chimoio 271 Volunteering 297

Mozambique 237 Manica

Tete
271
272
TRANSPORT IN
MOZAMBIQUE 297
Highlights 238 Cahora Bassa Dam & Getting There & Away 297
Itineraries 238 Songo 273 Getting Around 300
Climate & When to Go 238 Zumbo 273
History
The Culture
238
242
Sena & Mutarara
Caia
273
273 Namibia 304
Sport 243 Quelimane 273 Highlights 305
Religion 243 Mocuba 275 Itineraries 305
Arts & Crafts 243 Milange 275 Climate & When to Go 305
Environment 244 Gurúè 276 History 305
Food & Drink 245 Alto Molócuè 276 The Culture 309
MAPUTO 246 NORTHERN Religion 311
Orientation 246 MOZAMBIQUE 276 Arts & Crafts 311
Information 246 Nampula 276 Environment 312
Dangers & Annoyances 250 Angoche 278 Food & Drink 314
Sights 250 Ilha de Moçambique 278 WINDHOEK 314
Maputo for Children 251 Chocas 281 History 315
Tours 251 Nacala 282 Orientation 315
Festivals & Events 251 Cuamba 282 Information 315
Sleeping 251 Mandimba 283 Dangers & Annoyances 315
Eating 252 Lichinga 283 Sights & Activities 317
Drinking & Entertainment 253 Lake Niassa 284 Festivals & Events 319
Shopping 253 Niassa Reserve 284 Sleeping 319
Getting There & Away 253 Montepuez 285 Eating 321
Getting Around 254 Pemba 285 Drinking 321
Around Maputo 255 Around Pemba 288 Entertainment 321
SOUTHERN Quirimbas Archipelago 288 Shopping 322
MOZAMBIQUE 256 Macomia 289 Getting There & Away 322
Ponta d’Ouro & Ponta Pangane 289 Getting Around 323
Malongane 256 Mueda 290 Around Windhoek 323
Maputo Special Reserve 258 Moçimboa da Praia 290 Dordabis 324
Namaacha 258 Palma 291 Arnhem Cave 324
Bilene 258 MOZAMBIQUE NORTH-CENTRAL
Xai-Xai 259 DIRECTORY 291 NAMIBIA 324
Around Xai-Xai 259 Accommodation 291 Okahandja 326
Limpopo National Park 260 Activities 291 Gross Barmen Recreation
Quissico 260 Books 292 Reserve 326
Závora 261 Business Hours 292 Karibib 326
Inhambane 261 Children 293 Omaruru 326
Around Inhambane 262 Customs 293 Outjo 327
Tofo 262 Dangers & Annoyances 293 Gamkarab Cave 327
Barra 263 Embassies & Consulates 294 Otjiwarongo 328
Maxixe 264 Festivals & Events 295 Waterberg Plateau Park 328
Linga Linga 264 Holidays 295 Grootfontein 329
Massinga & Morrungulo 264 Internet Access 295 Tsumeb 330
16 CONTENTS

Etosha National Park 332 Language 391 Namaqualand 464

NORTHERN NAMIBIA 336 Maps 391 EASTERN CAPE 466
Oshakati 337 Money 391 Nature’s Valley to Port
Ondangwa 338 Post 392 Elizabeth 466
Uutapi (Ombalantu) 339 Telephone & Fax 392 Port Elizabeth 477
Ruacana 339 Tourist Information 392 Port Elizabeth to Kei River 481
Rundu 340 Visas 392 Settler Country & Around 486
Khaudom Game Reserve 341 Work 393 the Karoo 488
Bwabwata National Park 341 TRANSPORT IN NAMIBIA 393 Wild Coast 491
Katima Mulilo 343 North-Eastern Highlands 494
Getting There & Away 393
Mpalila Island 344 KWAZULU-NATAL 495
Getting Around 395
Mudumu National Park 345 History 495

399
Mamili National Park 345 Durban 495
Otjozondjupa Region 346 South Africa Around Durban 507
NORTHWESTERN Highlights 400 South of Durban 508
NAMIBIA 347 Itineraries 400 North of Durban 509
Damaraland 347 Climate & When to Go 400 Zululand 509
Kaokoveld 350 History 402 The Elephant Coast 511
Skeleton Coast 354 The Culture 407 Ukhahlamba-Drakensberg
CENTRAL NAMIBIA 355 Park 516
Sport 409
Swakopmund 355 The Midlands 523
Religion 410
Around Swakopmund 364 Thukela 525
Arts 410
Walvis Bay 364 MPUMALANGA 527
Environment 411
Namib-Naukluft Park 367 Eastern Lowveld 528
Food & Drink 414
SOUTHERN NAMIBIA 375 Klein Drakensberg 536
CAPE TOWN 415
Rehoboth 375 GAUTENG 539
History 415
Hardap Dam Recreation Johannesburg 540
Climate 418
Resort & Game Park 375 Pretoria 552
Orientation 418
Mariental 377 Around Pretoria 559
Duwisib Castle 377 Information 418 FREE STATE 559
Maltahöhe 377 Dangers & Annoyances 419 Bloemfontein 559
Helmeringhausen 377 Sights 419 Northern Free State 564
Brukkaros 378 Activities 426 Eastern Highlands 565
Keetmanshoop 378 Tours 430 NORTH-WEST PROVINCE 566
Aus 379 Festivals & Events 430 History 567
Lüderitz 379 Sleeping 430 Rustenburg 567
Around Lüderitz 384 Eating 433 Sun City 568
Fish River Canyon National Drinking 435 Pilanesberg National Park 569
Park 385 Entertainment 435 Mafikeng 570
Around Fish River Canyon 386 Shopping 436 LIMPOPO 571
Noordoewer 387 Getting There & Away 436 History 571
NAMIBIA DIRECTORY 387 Getting Around 437 The N1 Highway 571
Accommodation 387 WESTERN CAPE 438 Venda Region 575
Activities 389 Winelands 438 The Waterberg 576
Books 389 The Overberg 444 The East 577
Business Hours 389 Route 62 447 SOUTH AFRICA
Children 389 Garden Route 450 DIRECTORY 578
Customs 389 West Coast & Swartland 457 Accommodation 578
Dangers & Annoyances 389 NORTHERN CAPE 459 Activities 579
Embassies & Consulates 390 Kimberley 460 Books 582
Festivals & Events 390 Upington 461 Children 582
Holidays 390 Kgalagadi Transfrontier Courses 582
Internet Access 391 Park 462 Customs 583
Internet Resources 391 Upington to Springbok 464 Dangers & Annoyances 583
 CONTENTS 17

Embassies & Consulates 583 SOUTHERN SWAZILAND 613 Food & Drink 640
Festivals & Events 584 Ngwempisi Gorge 613 LUSAKA 640
Holidays 585 SWAZILAND DIRECTORY 613 Orientation 640
Internet Access 585 Accommodation 613 Information 640
Maps 585 Activities 613 Dangers & Annoyances 644
Money 585 Books 613 Sights & Activities 644
Post 586 Business Hours 613 Sleeping 644
Telephone 586 Children 613 Eating 646
Tourist Information 586 Customs 614 Drinking & Entertainment 646
Travellers With Disabilities 587 Dangers & Annoyances 614 Shopping 647
Visas 587 Embassies & Consulates 614 Getting There & Away 647
Volunteering 587 Festivals & Events 614 Getting Around 648
TRANSPORT IN SOUTH Gay & Lesbian Travellers 614 THE COPPERBELT 649
AFRICA 587 Holidays 614 Kapiri Mposhi 649
Getting There & Away 587 Internet Access 614 Ndola 649
Getting Around 591 Internet Resources 614 Kitwe 649
Language 614 Chimfunshi Wildlife
Swaziland 597 Maps
Money
614
615
Orphanage
Lake Kashiba
650
650
Highlights 598 Photography & Video 615 NORTHERN ZAMBIA 650
Itineraries 598 Post 615 Serenje 650
Climate & When to Go 598 Telephone 615 Kasanka National Park 651
History 598 Tourist Information 615 Bangweulu Wetlands 651
The Culture 601 Visas 615 Samfya 651
Religion 602 TRANSPORT IN Mutinondo Wilderness 652
Arts & Crafts 602 SWAZILAND 615 Shiwa Ng’andu 652
Environment 603 Getting There & Away 615 Kasama 653
Food & Drink 603 Getting Around 616 Mbala 653
MBABANE 603 Kalambo Falls 653
Orientation
Information
604
604
Victoria Falls 618 Mpulungu
Nsumbu (Sumbu) National
654

Dangers & Annoyances 604 Activities 619 Park 654

Sights 604 Travel & Adventure EASTERN ZAMBIA 655
Companies 620 Chirundu 655
Sleeping 605
ZAMBIA 621 Lower Zambezi National
Eating 605
Livingstone 621 Park 655
Shopping 605
Mosi-Oa-Tunya National Luangwa Bridge 657
Getting There & Away 605 Park 625 Chipata 657
Getting Around 605 ZIMBABWE 626 South Luangwa National
Around Mbabane 606 Victoria Falls 626 Park 658
NORTHWESTERN Victoria Falls National Park 630 North Luangwa National
SWAZILAND 609 Zambezi National Park 630 Park 662
Ngwenya 610 SOUTHERN ZAMBIA 662

631
Malolotja Nature Reserve 610 Choma 662
Piggs Peak 610 Zambia Lake Kariba 663
Bulembu 611 Highlights 632 Lochinvar National Park 664
EASTERN SWAZILAND 611 Itineraries 632 WESTERN ZAMBIA 664
Siteki 611 Climate & When to Go 632 Sesheke 664
Hlane Royal National Park 611 History 632 Ngonye Falls 665
Mlawula Nature Reserve 612 The Culture 636 Senanga 665
Mbuluzi Game Reserve 612 Sport 637 Mongu 665
Mkhaya Game Reserve 612 Religion 637 Kafue National Park 666
Simunye 612 Arts & Crafts 637 ZAMBIA DIRECTORY 668
Big Bend 612 Environment 638 Accommodation 668
18 CONTENTS

Activities 669 Kariba 703 Visas 729

Books 669 Mana Pools National Park 705 TRANSPORT IN
Business Hours 670 Middle Zambezi Canoe ZIMBABWE 729
Children 670 Safaris 706 Getting There & Away 729
Customs 670 Chinhoyi Caves National Getting Around 730
Park 706
Dangers & Annoyances 670
EASTERN HIGHLANDS 706
Discount Cards 670 Southern Africa
Embassies & Consulates
Festivals & Events
670
671
Mutare
Bvumba Mountains
707
708 Directory 732
Nyanga National Park 710 Accommodation 732
Holidays 671
Chimanimani 712 Activities 734
Internet Access 671
Chimanimani National Park 714 Books 740
Internet Resources 671
THE MIDLANDS & Business Hours 742
Language 672 SOUTHEASTERN Children 742
Maps 672 ZIMBABWE 714
Climate Charts 742
Money 672 Kwe Kwe 714
Courses 744
Photography & Video 673 Gweru 714
Customs 744
Post 673 Around Gweru 715
Dangers & Annoyances 744
Telephone 673 Masvingo 715
Embassies & Consulates 745
Tourist Information 674 Great Zimbabwe 716
Gay & Lesbian Travellers 745
Visas 674 Lake Mutirikwe (Kyle)
Insurance 746
TRANSPORT IN ZAMBIA 675 Recreational Park 717
Gonarezhou National Park 717 Internet Access 746
Getting There & Away 675
WESTERN ZIMBABWE 718 Maps 746
Getting Around 677
Bulawayo 718 Money 746

Zimbabwe 680 Tshabalala Game

Sanctuary 722
Photography & Video
Solo Travellers
747
748
Highlights 681 Khami (Kame) Ruins 722 Telephone 748
Itineraries 681 Matobo (Matopos) Time 748
Climate & When to Go 682 National Park 722 Toilets 749
History 682 Hwange 723 Tourist Information 749
The Culture 687 Hwange National Park 723 Travellers with Disabilities 749
Sport 688 Western Lake Kariba 725 Visas 749
Religion 689 ZIMBABWE DIRECTORY 725 Volunteering 750
Arts & Crafts 689 Accommodation 725 Women Travellers 750
Environment 689 Activities 725
Food & Drink 692 Books 726
Transport in
HARARE
Orientation
692
693
Business Hours
Children
726
726 Southern Africa 752
Information 693 Customs 726 GETTING THERE & AWAY 752
Dangers & Annoyances 695 Dangers & Annoyances 726 Entry Requirements 752
Sights 695 Embassies & Consulates 727 Air 752
Activities 698 Festivals & Events 727 Land 755
Harare for Children 698 Gay & Lesbian Travellers 727 Sea 757
Festivals & Events 698 Holidays 727 Tours 757
Sleeping 698 Internet Access 728 GETTING AROUND 758
Eating 699 Language 728 Air 758
Entertainment 700 Maps 728 Bicycle 759
Shopping 700 Money 728 Boat 759
Getting There & Away 701 Photography & Video 728 Bus 759
Getting Around 701 Post 728 Car & Motorcycle 760
Around Harare 702 Telephone 728 Hitching 764
NORTHERN ZIMBABWE 702 Tourist Information 728 Local Transport 764
 © Lonely Planet Publications
C O N T E N T S 19

Tours
Train
764
765
IN TRANSIT
Deep Vein Thrombosis
767
767 Glossary 783
Jet Lag 767

Health 766 IN SOUTHERN AFRICA 767 Behind the Scenes 787

Availability & Cost of
BEFORE YOU GO
Insurance
766
766
Health Care
Infectious Diseases
767
768 Index 796
Recommended Travellers’ Diarrhoea 770
Vaccinations
Medical Checklist
766
767
Environmental Hazards 771 World Time Zones 810
Internet Resources
Further Reading
767
767 Language 772 Map Legend 812

Regional Map Contents

Malawi
p159
Zambia
p633

Mozambique
Zimbabwe p240
Namibia p681
p307

Botswana
p79

Swaziland
p599

Lesotho
p136
South Africa
p401
 © Lonely Planet Publications
23

You can buy, download and

print individual chapters from

Getting Started this guidebook.

Get Southern Africa chapters>

Southern Africa varies tremendously; it’s suitable for backpackers getting by

on packets of chewy biltong, right through to those who prefer their cocktails
by the saltwater pool. It all depends on the country you want to spend time
in and the activities you pursue.
Anyone with limited time will want to plan their trip carefully, while those
with more time may prefer to just follow their whims and take life at a lei-
surely pace, stopping whenever something takes their fancy. Remember that
the right attitude is what’s most important – take precautions but don’t be
paranoid, whether in Johannesburg or sunning yourself by Lake Malawi.
Don’t run around trying to fit too much into your time – Africa needs
to be approached with a sense of fun and laid-back nonchalance. Before
long you’ll find yourself in tune to the rhythm of its friendly people, wild
landscapes and majestic wildlife.

WHEN TO GO
High season is from April to August, when most of Southern Africa is basking
in temperate sunshine, with comfortable (but often very chilly) nights. The
shoulder seasons of February to March and September to October are also
usually quite comfortable in the central part of the region. In the north, you
can plan on inclement weather from November to March; the heat can be
oppressive and travel can be more difficult due to flooded rivers and washed-
out roads. Wildlife viewing is also less rewarding than in the winter (and some
See Climate Charts (p742)
parks close completely), but bird-watching is at its best, and you’re likely to
for more information.
see the most dramatic skies and thunderstorms imaginable.
The Cape area, however, experiences a Mediterranean climate with win-
ter rain, which means that the high season is just the opposite of the rest
of Southern Africa. The high season in Cape Town runs from October to
March, while May to August is characterised by rains and blustery winds.
April and September can go either way.
Winter is best for hiking, because it’s dry and cool in the highlands and
not too hot in the lowlands.
Another factor to consider is the South African school holidays, when vast
numbers of people head for the coast and national parks of South Africa and
neighbouring countries. Hotels and camping grounds can fill completely, and
prices skyrocket. See the individual Climate and When to Go sections at the
beginning of the country chapters for country-specific details.

COSTS & MONEY HOW MUCH?

Generally speaking, prices in Southern Africa are around 50% to 75% of what 2WD car hire US$50-100
they are in Europe, Australasia or North America. Although the rand has Box of fruit at roadside
strengthened in recent years, South Africa still remains very good value and US$1-2
the crisis in Zimbabwe (see p682 for some background) has caused foreign-
Wildlife safari US$100
currency prices to plummet. Botswana is always considerably more expensive
and up
than these countries, while Malawi, Zambia and Mozambique offer a wide
range of options, from dirt cheap to exceptionally expensive. In general, Hourly internet access
locally produced items will be good value wherever you go, while imported $US0.50-$4
goods may be twice what they cost in the West (thanks to import duties). Traditional dance
Serious backpackers may get by on an average of US$12 to US$15 per day, US$5-15
including accommodation, food and transport, although US$20 allows more
flexibility. For a bit more comfort, US$25 to US$30 per day is a reasonable
budget for day-to-day living expenses. To stay in midrange hotels, eat well
24 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • R e a d i n g U p lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • M u s t - S e e M o v i e s 25

Scribbling the Cat: Travels with an African Soldier by Alexandra Fuller

DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT winds its way through Zambia, Zimbabwe and Mozambique. Fuller travels

A sense of fun and a relaxed attitude about African travel. into a war-scarred past with her companion, revealing a legacy of conflict
and its effects on themselves and the region’s indigenous peoples.

Binoculars for wildlife viewing and a schmick camera for taking great wildlife shots.
One of the most prominent contemporary South African authors is Zakes

An appetite for biltong, boerewors and mealie pap (see p48). Mda, who – with the publication of Ways of Dying in 1995 – made a suc-

Your yellow fever vaccination card, if you’ve been travelling in affected countries (see p770). cessful transition from poetry and plays to become an acclaimed novelist.

Reading the Malaria section of the Health chapter (p769) in this book if you’ll be travelling in
His most recent book, The Whale Caller (2005), takes a somewhat sceptical
malarial areas. look at the optimism surrounding the new South Africa.
In The History of Southern Africa, Kevin Shillington objectively and sen-

Warm, waterproof clothing, a hat and warm socks for cold highland areas (even in summer). sitively discusses Botswana, Namibia, South Africa, Lesotho and Swaziland,

Reading a few books (see below), or bringing one along for long bumpy bus rides. covering prehistory plus African and colonial history.

A tent, sleeping bag and sheet liner (which may also come in handy at budget hotels) for
camping. A camping stove is also essential for overnight hiking, as fires are not allowed in Websites
many areas – one that runs on petrol will be the least hassle. AfricaNet (www.africanet.com) A site with an African search engine covering many different
aspects of Africa, including tourism.
BackPacker (www.backpackafrica.com) This site has a South Africa bias, but lists lots of travel-
and travel in comfort when possible, you’re looking at around US$50 per related companies and has a live booking system and useful links.
day or more. Top-end travellers should expect to pay at least US$75 per day, Ecological Safaris (www.ecologicalafrica.com) A great website for planning personalised tours
but US$100 upward is more realistic (note that your budget will skyrocket around Southern Africa with an experienced operator.
if you’re staying in private game reserves). iafrica.com (www.iafrica.com) This diverse South African–dominated site includes travel, news
Along with these basic costs, you’ll have to consider visa and national and lifestyle sections, plus links to sites on other Southern African countries.
park fees, plus the cost of any tours or activities (such as wildlife safaris or Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) Here you will find several pages of information on each
whitewater rafting). To hire a car, you’ll find the cheapest deals in South country in Southern Africa and the Thorn Tree notice board, where you can ask questions before
Africa (p593), where some companies will allow you to take the vehicle into you go or dispense advice when you get back. There are also travel services, including an
neighbouring countries for a minimal extra charge. accommodation-booking facility with dedicated Lonely Planet author reviews.
See the Transport sections of individual country chapters, and the Money Political Africa (www.politicalafrica.com) Here you’ll find the latest stories on Africa, from
sections in country-specific Directories, for more information on costs. various news services around the world.

READING UP MUST-SEE MOVIES

Books
Tsotsi (Director Gavin Hood, 2006)
No Place Like & Other Stories by Southern African Women Writers, edited
Yesterday (Director Darrell James Roodt, 2005)
by Robin Malan, is a compelling collection of short stories that focus on the
Amandla! A Revolution in Four-Part Harmony (Director Lee Hirsch,
women of Botswana, Zimbabwe, South Africa and Namibia. The tone varies 2003)
between ironic, intimate and emotionally charged, often within the larger
Drum (Director Zola Maseko, 2005)
political landscape, encapsulating the hope and political futures of colonial
and post-colonial times.
FAVOURITE FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Mukiwa by Peter Goodwin is a book that grabs your heart and stays in your
head. It is the story of a small Rhodesian boy who witnesses the murder by Seeing a local festival can be a highlight of your trip to Southern Africa and a window into the
guerrillas of a neighbour…and then the tumultuous end of white rule. Mukiwa local culture. There’s plenty of traditional celebrations throughout the year – here’s a list of our
captures much of the beauty and mystery of Zimbabwe and Southern Africa. favourites:
Lost World of the Kalahari by Laurens Van der Post is a captivating account
/Ae//Gams street festival, Namibia, September (p319)
of the author’s rediscovery of the San at a time when Southern Africa was

Harare International Festival of the Arts, Zimbabwe, late April (p698)
under colonial rule. The book details the author’s arduous expedition deep
into the wild Kalahari and reveals the unique indigenous culture of Africa’s
Incwala ceremony, Swaziland, late December/early January (p607)
last Stone Age people.
Kuomboka ceremony, Zambia, late March/early April (p666)
The Scramble for Africa: White Man’s Conquest of the Dark Continent

Maitisong Festival, Botswana, March or April (p125)
from 1876 to 1912 by Thomas Pakenham details the colonial history of
Africa in well-written and entertaining prose. It was one of the first studies
Morija Arts & Cultural Festival, Lesotho, early October (p149)
to tell both sides of the story and has become established as the standard
Rustler’s Valley One World Unity Party, South Africa, Easter (p585)
work on the topic.
National Arts Festival, South Africa, July (p486)
Indaba My Children by Credo Mutwa is a book of legends – a historic
account of age-old Bantu traditions and beliefs. From the creation myth
Timbilas Festival, Mozambique, date varies between June and August (p295)
to the colonial era, this revealing book is a testament to the spirituality of
Umhlanga (Reed) Dance, Swaziland, August/September (p607)
Africa’s people.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
26 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • R e s p o n s i b l e T r a v e l lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • R e s p o n s i b l e T r a v e l 27

Zulu Love Letter (Director Ramadan Suleman, 2004)
Budget your trip, and devote 10% (or more!) before you go to donate

Wah-Wah (Director Richard E Grant, 2005) to charities that will directly help the areas you visit – such as Future

Boy Called Twist (Director Timothy Greene, 2004) Forests, which battles airplane fuel’s contribution to global warming.

In My Country (Director John Boorman, 2005)
Don’t watch sacred dances staged solely for tourists, and don’t go to

Red Dust (Director Tom Hooper, 2005) sacred sites that offend local beliefs. Respect the fragility and cultural

Flame (Director Ingrid Sinclair, 1996) importance of rock paintings throughout the region – no touching,
rubbing or interference.
RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL
Respect local protocol with regard to clothing – avoid very skimpy or
Tourism has a substantial effect on the destinations most frequented by for- ripped/dirty clothes, and topless sunbathing.
eign visitors. While some of these effects are absolutely beneficial, providing
Don’t drive 4WDs off road or on sand dunes and especially don’t drive
local income and incentive for environmental conservation, other aspects on beaches in Mozambique, where it’s harmful to the environment and
of tourism can seriously disrupt local economies and ecologies. Please take illegal.
note of the following guidelines and help minimise the negative aspects of
Be aware of the source of your seafood. Overfishing and inappropri-
tourism while reinforcing its benefits to local communities: ate fishing methods mean that although Southern Africa’s waters are

Save water; it’s a precious resource, especially in Namibia, where you bountiful, many species are overexploited and some stocks are running
should be extra careful about water conservation – particularly during dangerously low.
the dry season.

Don’t – ever! – litter on trails, in parks or in cities. When there’s a Organisations with information on responsible travel and sustainable envi-
choice, don’t stay in guesthouses or hotels that dump sewage into riv- ronmental practices include Tourism Concern (%020 7133 3330; www.tourismconcern
ers, canals or lakes. .org.uk; Stapleton House, 277-281 Holloway Rd, London N7 8HN); and Action for Southern Africa

Support local enterprise. But when buying locally made souvenirs, avoid (%020 7833 3133; www.actsa.org; 28 Penton St, London N1 9SA), which campaigns for
items made from natural material – wood, skin, ivory etc – unless they (among other things) sustainable tourism throughout the region.
come from a sustainable source (admittedly, this is difficult to check). For further information on responsible tourism, see p65.

Recognise land tenure. Indigenous people who use the land are entitled
to it by international law, whether or not local governments respect
that law.

Ask permission before taking close-up photographs of people, and if
payment is requested, either pay up or put the camera away.

Don’t give money or sweets as gifts for children. If you want to help
them, find the village school and donate some pens or schoolbooks, or
seek out the clinic and donate unwanted first-aid items. Don’t allow
schoolkids to guide you during school hours as this encourages them
to play truant.

CONDUCT IN SOUTHERN AFRICA

A few straightforward courtesies may greatly improve a foreigner’s chances of acceptance by
the local community, especially in rural areas. In Southern Africa, pleasantries are taken quite
seriously, and it’s essential to greet or say goodbye to someone entering or leaving a room.
Learn the local words for hello and goodbye and use them unsparingly. Emphasis is placed on
handshakes all over the region. The Batswana (in Botswana) are particularly sensitive to proper
greetings (always be polite) and handshakes (grab your right elbow with your left arm while
shaking). In Zambia it’s customary to greet someone who is walking if you are the one who is
stationary, not the other way around. The African handshake consists of three parts: the normal
Western handshake, followed by the linking of bent fingers while touching the ends of upward-
pointing thumbs, and then a repeat of the conventional handshake.
As in most traditional societies, the achievement of old age is an accomplishment worthy of
respect, and elders are treated with deference – their word should not be questioned and they
should be accorded utmost courtesy. Teachers, doctors and other professionals often receive
similar treatment.
When visiting rural settlements, it’s a good idea to request to see the chief to announce your
presence and ask permission before setting up camp or wandering through.
If you’re offered a gift, don’t feel guilty about accepting it, as refusal may bring shame on the
giver. To receive a gift politely, accept it with both hands and perhaps bow slightly.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
28 lonelyplanet.com ITINERARIES •• Classic Routes 29

NATURAL WONDER & SENSATIONAL SAFARIS One Week / Victoria

Itineraries Falls to the Okavango Delta

Start your trip at one of the great natural wonders of the world, Victoria Falls
(p618), whose mighty spray can be seen from 50km away. For the best per-
spective visit from both Livingstone (Zambia; p621) and the town of Victoria
CLASSIC ROUTES Falls (Zimbabwe; p626). There’s a plethora of activities including serene canoe
trips on top of the falls, or rafting down the churning Zambezi, below the
falls, if you’re after an adrenalin rush. Also be sure to check out Mosi-oa-Tunya
NATURE & FUN IN THE SUN Three Weeks to One Month / Game Park (p626) and the rainforests of Victoria Falls National Park.
Kruger to southern Mozambique From the Zimbabwean side catch a shuttlebus or drive to Kasane (p101)
Using Johannesburg (p540) as a gateway, head east via Nelspruit (p533) to South in Botswana, the gateway town to the stunning, wildlife-rich Chobe National
Africa’s world-renowned Kruger National Park (p528). The teeming wildlife will Park (p101). Here you can organise wildlife drives and river cruises to the
undoubtedly mesmerise you for at least several days. Chobe Riverfront wonderland, where nearly every Southern African mam-
If you’ve time, duck out of Orpen Gate for a look at Blyde River Canyon mal species is represented.
(p536). From Kruger, continue south into Swaziland, where you can spend a From Chobe it’s an easy hop, skip and a jump southwest to Maun (p106)
few days hiking through the grasslands and forests of Malolotja Nature Reserve and Botswana’s tourist magnet, the vast Okavango Delta (p106), where one of
(p610) before heading on via Mbabane (p603) to the tiny but brilliant Mkhaya the world’s most impressive ecosystems breathes life into the Kalahari sands
Game Reserve (p612), which is noted for its black rhinos. and attracts astonishing amounts of wildlife and incalculable birds.
Then head to culturally intriguing Maputo (p246) via the Mozambican Once in Maun, you can do a mokoro (dugout canoe) trip in the Eastern
border town of Namaacha (p258). Head north on the EN1 and if you’re get- Delta (p112), take a safari in Moremi Wildlife Reserve (p114), or splash out on a
ting desperate for a dip, stop at Xai-Xai’s (p259) quiet beaches. Continue up fly-in trip into the Inner Delta (p112). From Maun, take a minibus clockwise
the EN1 to Inhambane (p261), one of the country’s oldest and most charming around the delta towards Namibia, perhaps stopping in Sepupa to take a boat
towns. Beaches close by include legendary Tofo (p262), with azure waters, to Seronga (p116) and do a mokoro trip in the Okavango Panhandle (p116).
and the more sedate Barra (p263). If you’ve more steam, trundle a bit further A rewarding side trip will take you to the Tsodilo Hills (p117), which the San
north to Vilankulo (p265), the gateway to the tropical paradise of Bazaruto people maintain is the site of creation.
Archipelago.
This trip serves up A delightful
delightful variety, itinerary, this will
and if you’ve a take you 700km
month up your through some of
sleeve you can get the biggest draws
MALAWI
a good sampling ZAMBIA ZAMBIA
MALAWI
in Southern Africa.
of the wildlife and When viewing
local culture and Victoria wildlife, remember
Falls
still have time to Kasane Livingstone
to take a break
MOZAMBIQUE Tsodilo Hills Sepupa Chobe National Park
laze on the beach ZIMBABWE
Okavango Moremi Wildlife MOZAMBIQUE here and there –
Delta Reserve
along this 2000km- Bazaruto
Maun ZIMBABWE
don’t try to
NAMIBIA
plus route. Short NAMIBIA
BOTSWANA
Archipelago
Vilankulo
squeeze too much
Kruger
on time? Whiz National BOTSWANA in. You could whiz
Blyde River Canyon Park
through Swazi- Nature Reserve Xai-Xai
Inhambane
along in about
Nelspruit
land and stick to Malolotja Nature Reserve
Namaacha
MAPUTO seven days, or
Johannesburg SWAZILAND
motorways where relax along the
Mkhaya Game Reserve
MBABANE

possible. SWAZILAND way and stretch

LESOTHO LESOTHO
things out to 10
ATLANTIC SOUTH AFRICA INDIAN SOUTH AFRICA days or even two
ATLANTIC INDIAN
OCEAN OCEAN
OCEAN OCEAN weeks.
 30 ITINERARIES •• Classic Routes lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com I T I N E R A R I E S • • R o a d s Le s s T r a v e l l e d 31

A SOUTHERN AFRICAN SLICE One Month / Cape Town to Windhoek

A car is definitely your best bet for this mega road trip. After a few days in
Cape Town (p415), including a stay at a township B&B, tear yourself away from
ROADS LESS TRAVELLED
this wonderful city and head to the fertile valleys of the Winelands, with a
night or two in Stellenbosch (p438) or Franschhoek (p442). DUSTY ROADS & SHIMMERING WATERS Three Weeks to One Month /
From here, continue east to the artists’ enclave of Montagu (p447), and then Lusaka to Nkhata Bay
via the scenic Route 62 through the Little Karoo to Oudtshoorn (p448), South Start with a few days in Lusaka (p640) with its lively ambience and genuine
Africa’s ostrich capital. Possible detours along the way include to Hermanus African feel. Then head out on the highway to the beautiful Lower Zambezi
(p444) for whale watching if the season is right, and Cape Agulhas (p446) for National Park (p655), its beautiful flood plain dotted with acacias and other
the thrill of standing at Africa’s southernmost point. large trees. There’s no public transport so you’ll need a car, or organise a
From Oudtshoorn take the N12 north and then loop back towards Cape tour. Continue up the Great East Road to Chipata (p657), taking a break from
Town via the N1, link up with the N7 and head for Namaqualand (p464) the road at Luangwa Bridge (p657), roughly halfway. At Chipata check out the
to see the fabulous wildflower displays, especially good in August and market and organise a trip to South Luangwa National Park (p658), the best in
September. Zambia and one of the most majestic parks in Africa. From Chipata you can
Keep tracking up the N7, cross into Namibia at Vioolsdrif (p465) and head drive to Mfuwe Gate (p658), or minibuses make the trip to Mfuwe village. The
to Hobas (p385) to see the Fish River Canyon National Park (p385), a jaw-dropping really adventurous could try to reach spectacular North Luangwa National Park
natural sight that’s also Namibia’s premier walking destination. (p662), but seek local advice for this.
Further north along the B1, Keetmanshoop (p378) has some colonial archi- Then it’s on to Lilongwe (p167), worth a day or two to check out the old
tecture; if this grabs you, head west along the B4 to surreal Lüderitz (p379), town and the local Nature Sanctuary. Then strike north along the M1 to
a coastal colonial relic. Heading back to the B1, turn north at the C13 and Nkhata Bay (p188), perfect for swimming, kayaking or just lazing about after
make a beeline for baroque Duwisib Castle (p377), well worth exploring, 70km some hard weeks on the road. Possible detours on the way to Nkhata include
south of Maltahöhe (p377), where you can stay on a working ranch. From the gently rolling hills of Kasungu National Park (p196), and Nkhotakota (p196),
there head to Mariental (p377), back on the B1, and it’s another couple of to pick up some good-value crafts and to organise a trip to the wild Nkhotakota
hours to Windhoek (p314), the small, colourful and cosmopolitan capital city Wildlife Reserve (p197), where you’ve a good chance of seeing elephants.
with its bracing highland climate.

Definitely for lov- A 2000km route

ers of a road trip. that could be
Even if you can’t done in a couple
North Luangwa MALAWI
squeeze everything National Park
Nkhata Bay of weeks, but we
South Luangwa
in on this 3000km- National Park Kasungu
National Park
recommend at
least three weeks
Mfuwe
plus journey, you’ll ZAMBIA
MALAWI
ZAMBIA Lower Zambezi
Chipata
Nkhotakota
LILONGWE
undoubtedly come National Park
Luangwa to enjoy this jour-
LUSAKA Bridge
away with an ney through the
immense apprecia- MOZAMBIQUE Southern African
ZIMBABWE
tion of this varied NAMIBIA
ZIMBABWE
MOZAMBIQUE outback. Travel-
and remarkable ling in Zambia is
region. If you’re WINDHOEK
BOTSWANA NAMIBIA
BOTSWANA
a chance to get a
looking to make taste of the real Af-
cuts, shave some Maltahöhe Mariental
rica, and the dusty
Duwisib
kilometres off the Castle
SWAZILAND roads will become
Lüderitz
a distant memory
Keetmanshoop
Western Cape loop.
SWAZILAND
Fish River Hobas
Canyon
To avoid white-line National Park
Vioolsdrif
once you’re lazing
LESOTHO
fever allow at least
Namaqualand
LESOTHO by the crystal clear
a month. ATLANTIC SOUTH AFRICA INDIAN ATLANTIC SOUTH AFRICA INDIAN waters of Lake
OCEAN
Montagu Oudtshoorn
OCEAN OCEAN OCEAN Malawi.
Stellenbosch
CAPE TOWN Franschhoek
Hermanus
Cape
Agulhas
 32 I T I N E R A R I E S • • R o a d s Le s s T r a v e l l e d lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com I T I N E R A R I E S • • R o a d s Le s s T r a v e l l e d 33

LAKESHORE TO SEASHORE Three Weeks to One Month / MESMERISING WILDERNESS & CULTURE Three Weeks / Skeleton
Nkhata Bay to Pemba Coast to the Kalahari
Drag yourself out of Nkhata Bay’s (p188) crystal waters and hop onto the Ilala Starting on Namibia’s Skeleton Coast, a treacherous coastline with its rusting
ferry for the blissful Likoma Island (p192), where swimming, snorkelling and shipwrecks and desert wilderness, check out the Cape Cross Seal Reserve (p354).
local cultures are the star attractions. Splash out at Kaya Mawa if you’ve the Track north along the coast to Torra Bay (p355), where you can camp, or to
pennies – it’s one of Africa’s finest paradise retreats. Take the ferry over to Terrace Bay (p355) for more luxurious accommodation. Then travel west into
the Mediterranean-esque Chizumulu Island (p194), with its idyllic beaches, and the wonders of Damaraland (p347), with its wild, open spaces, and head for
return by dhow (only if the waters are calm). Twyfelfontein (p349), one of the most extensive galleries of rock art in Africa.
On Likoma hop back on the ferry, or take a dhow, and head over to Cóbuè Then journey further east to Outjo (p327), a staging post for visits to Etosha
(p284) on the other side of the lakeshore in Mozambique. Stay just south of National Park (p332), teeming with animals and one of the continent’s great
Cóbuè at Nkwichi Lodge, a magnificent bush retreat and part of an important wildlife-viewing sites.
development and conservation project. If your budget isn’t up to Nkwichi Exit Etosha via Von Linqequist Gate and proceed to Tsumeb (p330), one of
Lodge, there’s the backpacker-friendly Mchenga Wede nearby. Then continue the country’s prettiest towns with its vivid jacarandas and flame trees. Track
south to tiny Metangula (p284), and on to cool Lichinga (p283), surrounded by northeast along the B8 into Botswana at the border town of Mohembo. Drive
scenic, rugged terrain and the capital of remote Niassa province. Carry on down the west side of the Okavango Delta (p106), perhaps stopping in Sepupa to
through to Mandimba (p283) and on to bustling Cuamba (p282), where you can take a boat to Seronga (p116) to do a mokoro trip in the Okavango Panhandle.
pick up a train all the way to Nampula (p276). Then jump on a bus through Detour to the mystical Tsodilo Hills (p117), soaked in San legend, culture and
to magnificent Ilha de Moçambique (p278), with its intriguing architecture and spiritual significance: a highlight is the prolific rock art in the area.
time-warp atmosphere. If you need a beach break on the way to the island, The last leg of this ambitious trip is the gigantic Central Kalahari Game
detour to nearby Chocas (p281). Finish up a bit further north at Pemba (p285), Reserve (p119) to the southeast, lying at the heart of Botswana. Enter at the
the gateway to the superb Quirimbas Archipelago. Matswere Gate at the northeastern end of the reserve: wildlife includes lions
and brown hyenas. You can finish your trip by exiting the same gate and
travelling east to Francistown (p95).

This 1500km trip This is a 3000km-

could be tacked plus challenging
onto ‘Dusty Roads Likoma &
jaunt into some of
and Shimmer- Chizumulu
Islands Southern Africa’s
Nkhata Bay
ing Waters’ and Metangula
Cóbuè most inhospitable
is a great way
MALAWI
Lichinga
Mandimba
Pemba
ZAMBIA
and magnificent
to combine the
ZAMBIA
Cuamba
Chocas terrain – you
fourth largest lake MALAWI Nampula
Ilha de definitely need a
Moçambique
in Africa with a Etosha MOZAMBIQUE car, and note that
MOZAMBIQUE
Mozambican bush National
Terrace Park Tsodilo
Sepupa
Okavango
ZIMBABWE
much of it is 4WD
Bay Damaraland Tsumeb Hills Delta
adventure. Ilha ZIMBABWE
Torra
Outjo territory. You could
Matswere Francistown
de Moçambique
Twyfelfontein
NAMIBIA
Bay
Cape Cross
Gate push through in
makes a wonder-
Seal Reserve Central Kalahari
three weeks, but
BOTSWANA
Game Reserve

ful contrast to the BOTSWANA

consider taking a
NAMIBIA
bush, and you can month, especially if
finish on the beach
SWAZILAND
SWAZILAND you want to spend
in the tropical some time in the
island paradise LESOTHO
ATLANTIC LESOTHO INDIAN Kalahari.
OCEAN OCEAN
of Quirimbas ATLANTIC
SOUTH AFRICA
OCEAN
Archipelago. SOUTH AFRICA
INDIAN
OCEAN
 © Lonely Planet Publications
34 I T I N E R A R I E S • • Ta i l o re d T r i p s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com I T I N E R A R I E S • • Ta i l o re d T r i p s 35

MAJESTIC WILDLIFE & AFRICAN LANDSCAPES

TAILORED TRIPS Africa and its wildlife have a mystique that’s simply awe-inspiring. In South
Africa, world-class Kruger National Park (p528) has an astonishing variety
and number of animals, while surreal Pilanesberg National Park (p569) with
WORLD HERITAGE SITES its extinct volcanoes is good for spotting wild dogs. At Mkhuze Game Reserve
Southern Africa’s Unesco-protected World Heritage Sites encapsulate some (p515) sit by a pan at dawn listening to the sounds of the bush, watching
of the most valuable cultural icons, historical sites and natural landscapes on the wildlife parade before you. For unforgettable sunsets and wild storms,
the continent. South Africa hosts fossil hominid sites including Sterkfontein head to the hauntingly beautiful Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park (p462), with its
(see p37), referred to as the Cradle of Humankind. Further north, Mapungubwe shifting red and white sands. If you’re after separation from the world, try
Cultural Landscape (p575) incorporates wonderful historical sites from an ancient Sehlabathebe National Park (p147) in Lesotho.
kingdom. Greater St Lucia Wetlands (p513) is a brilliant ecotourism destination, In Malawi, hippos, elephants and kingfishers dominate the lush sur-
and the Ukhahlamba-Drakensberg Park (p516) is an otherworldly mountainous area rounds and tranquil Shire River at Liwonde National Park (p206), while Nyika
splashed with San rock art. In the west, just offshore National Park(p181) has antelope, endless views
from Cape Town, Robben Island (p419) is a shrine to and clean, crisp air. Magnificent Kafue National Nyika
MALAWI the struggle, with tours led by former inmates. Park (p666) is Zambia’s foremost park for spot- National Park
Lake
ZAMBIA Malawi Zimbabwe boasts impressive cultural sites such ting the Big Five. Kafue MALAWI
MOZAMBIQUE

Victoria Mana Pools as Great Zimbabwe (p716), once the greatest medieval One of the largest herds of elephants in the Etosha
National
ZAMBIA Park
Liwonde
National Park
Falls National Park Ilha de
Moçambique
city in sub-Saharan Africa, and the Khami Ruins world roam around Hwange National Park (p723) in National
Park ZIMBABWE
Tsodilo Hills ZIMBABWE (p722). Close by, Matobo National Park (p722) has one Zimbabwe, and the breathtaking Eastern Highlands Hwange Eastern Highlands
Khami Ruins Great Zimbabwe Okavango National
NAMIBIA Matobo
National
of the world’s best collections of San rock art. In the (p706) are a wilderness wonderland of formidable NAMIBIA Delta Park

Park
MOZAMBIQUE
Mapungubwe
north, Mana Pools National Park (p705) is known for peaks, savanna valleys and hiking trails. Kgalagadi
BOTSWANA Kruger
National Park
its walking safaris. Victoria Falls (p618), to the west, Namibia’s Etosha National Park (p332) is one
BOTSWANA
Cultural Landscape Transfrontier
Park Pilanesberg SWAZILAND
SWAZILAND Greater
St Lucia is one of the world’s seven natural wonders. of the continent’s great wildlife-viewing destin- National Mkhuze
Park
ATLANTIC LESOTHO Wetlands Ilha de Moçambique (p278) in Mozambique is a ations, while the Okavango Delta (p106) in Bot- LESOTHO
Game
Reserve
Ukhahlamba-
OCEAN
SOUTH AFRICA Drakensberg portal to the past with its intriguing architectural swana contains water-soaked Kalahari sands, a A TOLCAENATNI C Sehlabathebe
National
Robben
Park INDIAN
OCEAN
legacy, Lake Malawi (p187) is a snorkelling para- staggering animal population and magnificent SOUTH AFRICA Park INDIAN
OCEAN
Island
dise, and the Tsodilo Hills (p117) in Botswana is the desert vistas.
site of creation according to the San.
A LITTLE BIT OF HISTORY
BEACH PARADISE Southern Africa’s historical roots are firmly planted in the extraordinary
Sun worshippers will do well along South Africa’s Garden Route. Further San rock art sprinkled around the region. Some of the best examples are in
east, Jeffrey’s Bay (p468) is South Africa’s foremost centre of surfing, where Matobo National Park (p722) in Zimbabwe; the Tsodilo Hills (p117) in Botswana;
you’ll find locals waxing lyrical about the supertubes. But if you are look- and Twyfelfontein (p349) in Namibia.
ing for something more remote head to the aptly named Wild Coast. Here The stone ruins of Great Zimbabwe (p716), a rare example of medieval
dramatic beaches are backed by indigenous forest in one of the wildest, African architecture, are well worth a ramble, as are the 16th-century Khami
most unspoilt areas in the country. Durban’s (p495) holiday atmosphere Ruins (p722).
makes for the ultimate beachside playground complete with warm water, In Mozambique, European extravagance is evident in Palace of São Paulo
sun, surf and sand. (p280) and the oldest European building in the southern hemisphere, Chapel
In Mozambique, try Tofo (p262) with its long arc of white-sand beach and of Nossa Senhora de Baluarte (p280); both are found on timeless Ilha de Moçam-
excellent offshore diving. The Bazaruto Archipelago (p267) has clear waters of bique, which has a diverse cultural heritage.
turquoise and jade waters filled with colourful A unique pocket of colonial Africa can be
Nkhata
fish. Beaches north and south of Inhambane (p261) found at unspoilt Livingstonia (p179) in Malawi,
Bay Quirimbas are long, palm-fringed and backed by low cliffs where the fascinating museum details European Livingstonia
Chizumulu &
Likoma Islands Lake
Archipelago
or dunes. The Quirimbas Archipelago (p288) has missionary work. At Nkhotakota (p196) you can Shiwa
House Nkhotakota
ZAMBIA
Malawi beaches with stunning patches of deserted white sit under the tree where Livingstone persuaded MALAWI
ZAMBIA MALAWI
sand, with diving and snorkelling just offshore. a local chief to end the slave trade. ZIMBABWE
Khami
Ilha de
Moçambique
ZIMBABWE
MOZAMBIQUE But you don’t need a coastline to find a beach! Reminiscent of a medieval castle with its maze Tsodilo Ruins Great
NAMIBIA Bazaruto Try Lake Malawi (p187), its waters filled with of dusty corridors and stairways, bizarre Shiwa Twyfelfontein Hills Zimbabwe

House (p652) in Zambia is a rambling European Matobo

BOTSWANA Archipelago NAMIBIA MOZAMBIQUE
stunning marine life, for some of the best snor- National Park
Inhambane;
Tofo kelling in the region. There’s no better place to edifice situated in the middle of the African BOTSWANA

SWAZILAND
start than in the crystal waters off Likoma (p192) bush. Johannesburg
SWAZILAND

LESOTHO
Durban
and Chizumulu (p194) islands, with their sublime In Jo’burg the Apartheid Museum (p544) tells ATLANTIC
LESOTHO
INDIAN
A T L A N T I C SOUTH AFRICA
INDIAN
beaches and unparalleled diving. Back on the the chilling apartheid story with sensory verve, OCEAN SOUTH AFRICA OCEAN
OCEAN
OCEAN lakeshore get seduced into lazing at Nkhata Bay while Cape Town (p415) is awash with European CAPE TOWN
Jeffrey's Bay (p188). history.
World Heritage Sites Beach Paradise Majestic Wildlife & African Landscapes A Little Bit of History
 © Lonely Planet Publications
36

Snapshot
Southern Africa
Southern Africa received a boost in 2005 when the world’s richest nations
agreed to write off the debt owed by the world’s poorest countries, which
include Zambia and Mozambique, with Malawi expected to qualify for the
ECONOMICALLY same debt relief in coming years.
SPEAKING, DID The establishment of transfrontier parks (p67) linking wildlife migration
YOU KNOW? routes across borders in pursuit of sustainable development is picking up
Botswana: one of the momentum, with Malawi and Zambia recently agreeing in principle to the
world’s fastest- first such park outside South Africa.
growing economies, Ever-looming food shortages swept across Southern Africa in 2005–06
has a per-capita GDP of (see p43); rains and food aid have helped to avert a potential large-scale
around $10,000 famine, although food shortages remain a critical problem. Wreaking even
Lesotho: unemployment more havoc is HIV/AIDS, which is devastating Southern Africa – Botswana
rate is 45%, literacy rate and Swaziland have the highest infection rate in the world, and South Africa
is 85% has an estimated 4.5 million infected citizens (p42).
Zimbabwe attracts most of the headlines for all the wrong reasons as © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
Malawi: tobacco
Mugabe’s madness shows no sign of relenting (see p680). Artists are perhaps restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
generates over 60% of
redefining what it means to be Zimbabwean in the troubled country, moving
export earnings
away from Western influences and returning to the music and instruments of
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
Mozambique: annual per their ancestors – the mbira (thumb piano) is a classic example of this (p55). everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
capita income is about Botswana and Namibia are beacons of political stability in the region. The the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
US$300 (compared with subject of diamonds and when they’ll run out is an issue in both countries, as
about US$26,000 in is the fate of the San, an ancient nomadic hunter-gather group who has been
the UK) relocated from its ancestral lands into government-sponsored settlements in
Namibia: world’s the Central Kalahari. The Botswana government has dug its heels in over the
fifth-largest producer of relocations, stubbornly insisting such moves are necessary, but the issue remains
uranium highly controversial and a political nightmare for the government (see p119).
In South Africa the subject of President Mbeki’s successor is fervently
South Africa: world’s
discussed, as is the unrelenting crime rate, which is finally showing tentative
largest exporter of gold
signs of abating (p407). Mbeki’s conspicuous failure to condemn the forced
Swaziland: receives reclamation of white-owned farms in neighbouring Zimbabwe has unnerved
nine-tenths of its imports both South African landowners and foreign investors.
from and sends almost The mood in Mozambique is generally upbeat, with tourism booming and
two-thirds of its exports Celtel advertising ‘orgulhosamente Moçambicano’ (proudly Mozambican)
to South Africa pasted everywhere around the country.
Zambia: benefits from the In Malawi, political infighting and corruption tend to be the ‘normal’
exploding economies of state of affairs, while Zambia’s corruption problems are a daily topic in the
India and China, which country’s main newspapers. Many people say that President Mwanawasa is
have pushed up the price not in touch with the needs of common Zambians, though it is assumed he
of its copper will win the coming election (p635).
Zimbabwe: fastest-
Corruption also features in Lesotho’s dam projects (p145), selling water to
shrinking economy in the
South Africa and, in the process, displacing villages and causing environmental
world outside a war zone
concerns. However, since elections in 2002 it has enjoyed a period of relative
stability. In Swaziland the new constitution was unveiled in 2003 and promptly
dismissed by reform-minded Swazis, who want King Mswati III to loosen his
grip on power and phase in a democratic system of government (p600).
If you’re planning ahead, the spotlight will be turned on football-mad
Southern Africa in 2010 as South Africa hosts the World Cup, a great time
for travel in the region.
© Lonely Planet Publications
20 lonelyplanet.com THE AUTHORS 21

The Authors
ALAN MURPHY Coordinating Author MATTHEW D FIRESTONE Botswana, Namibia, Victoria Falls
Alan remembers falling under Southern Africa’s ambient spell after bouncing Matt is a trained biological anthropologist and epidemiologist who is par-
around in the rear of a bakkie on the way from Jo’burg airport in 1999. Since ticularly interested in the health and nutrition of indigenous populations.
then he’s been back three times working for Lonely Planet, including the South His first visit to Botswana and Namibia in 2001 brought him deep into the
Africa and Africa guides. Whether spotting elephants at a water hole, tracking Kalahari, where he performed a field study on the traditional diet of the
rhino in the bush, glimpsing elusive wild dogs or chuckling at the clownish San. Unfortunately, Matt’s promising academic career was postponed due
behaviour of curious baboons, he finds wildlife watching exhilarating. Besides, to a severe case of wanderlust, though he has relentlessly travelled to more
any place where you can bribe officials with mangoes at road blocks has got than 50 countries in search of a cure. Matt is hoping that this book will help
to be special. More than anything, though, he never ceases to be amazed and ease the pain of other individuals bitten by the travel bug, though he fears
humbled at the fortitude and verve of Southern Africa’s resilient people. that there is a growing epidemic on the horizon.

The Coordinating Author’s Favourite Trip

I have to top a list of my faves with Kruger National Park (p528) –
my first wildlife excursion in Africa, where I was greeted by two Likoma Island MARY FITZPATRICK Mozambique
Lake Malawi
dwarf mongoose shagging by the roadside. Following closely Originally from Washington, DC, Mary set off after graduate studies for sev-
Liwonde
is Mkhaya Game Reserve (p612) and rustling around the bush Livingstone National eral years in Europe. Her fascination with languages and cultures soon led her
Victoria Park
trying to spot black rhino. Unforgettable was snorkelling the Falls further south to sub-Saharan Africa, where she has spent much of the past
Chimanimani
aquarium that is Lake Malawi’s crystal waters, off Likoma island Kruger
National Park decade living and working, including almost four years in Mozambique. Mary
(p192), and kayaking up the lakeshore. National has travelled extensively throughout the country, and has authored and co-
Park
Next is waking up to a hippo munching outside my rondavel Mkhaya authored numerous other guidebooks covering Mozambique and elsewhere
Game
at Liwonde National Park (p206); hiking in Chimanimani National Reserve in the region. She calls Cairo home at the moment and travels to points
Park (p714), with its jaw-dropping views; and dropping into Liv- ATLANTIC INDIAN south (preferably those with beaches) whenever she gets the chance.
OCEAN
ingstone for canoeing up the Zambezi along the top of Victoria OCEAN

Falls (p618), alert for ‘rising hippo ears’ and skittish elephants.

KATE ARMSTRONG Lesotho, Swaziland MICHAEL GROSBERG South Africa

Kate was bitten by the Africa bug when she lived and worked in Mozam- After a childhood in the Washington, DC area and with a valuable philosophy
bique, and on her subsequent travels around East Africa. She jumped at the degree in hand, Michael took a job developing a resort on an island in the Pacific,
chance to explore new territory for this Lonely Planet edition. While she after which he left for a long overland trip through Asia. He later found his way
successfully avoided malarial mosquitoes, she was less able to escape an to the seaside resort of Durban, South Africa, where he investigated and wrote
obsession with Zulu culture, giraffes and the overwhelming hospitality of the about political violence, prison abuse and other fun issues, and helped train
local people (not to mention several flat tyres along the way). When Kate’s new local government officials in the province of KwaZulu Natal while finding
not eating, hiking and dancing her way around parts of Africa, Europe and time to travel all over Southern Africa. He returned to NYC for graduate school
South America, her itchy feet are grounded in Sydney where she works as in comparative literature, and he has taught literature and writing in several NYC
a freelancer, writing travel articles and children’s educational books. colleges in addition to Lonely Planet assignments around the world.

NANA LUCKHAM Malawi & Northern, Eastern & Western Zambia

Born in Tanzania to a Ghanaian mother and an English father, Nana started
LONELY PLANET AUTHORS life crisscrossing Africa by planes and bouncing along the roughest of roads.
Why is our travel information the best in the world? It’s simple: our authors are independent, A rather less glamorous childhood on the south coast of England followed,
dedicated travellers. They don’t research using just the internet or phone, and they don’t take albeit punctuated with periods living in Ghana and a then-thriving Zimbabwe.
freebies in exchange for positive coverage. They travel widely, to all the popular spots and off After a degree in history and French and a Masters in international relations
she headed off, with an impressively small backpack, to explore Southern and
the beaten track. They personally visit thousands of hotels, restaurants, cafés, bars, galleries,
Eastern Africa and beyond, supplementing her travels with periods of gainful
palaces, museums and more – and they take pride in getting all the details right, and telling it
employment at UN headquarters in New York. She now lives in the exotic
how it is. For more, see the authors section on www.lonelyplanet.com. wilds of southwest London but still spends most of her time on the road.
© Lonely Planet Publications
22 T H E A U T H O R S lonelyplanet.com

ANDY REBOLD Lusaka, Copperbelt & Southern Zambia

Born in the Bronx, Andy was dragged kicking and screaming to suburban
New Joisey, where he grew up. In 1998, after surviving the Peace Corps in
Mali, Andy spent three years with Lonely Planet as an author and cartogra-
pher. Tired of being impoverished, he earned a MPH at Columbia University
and then joined the UN Population Fund, which sent him to myriad African
nations whose peace hung by a string of dental floss. He now manages
government-funded public health projects in Zambia. In his spare time, Andy
listens to Lou Reed, guzzles Brooklyn lager and cheers for New York Yankee
Johnny Damon (#18) when he scores against the Boston Red Sox.

CONTRIBUTING AUTHORS
Jane Cornwell wrote the Music chapter. Jane is an Australian-born, London-based journalist writing on
music for publications including the Evening Standard, Guardian, Songlines and Jazzwise. Her articles also
appear regularly in the Australian newspaper. She holds a postgraduate honours degree in anthropol-
ogy and has worked for the Institute of Contemporary Arts; Real World Records; World of Music, Arts
and Dance (WOMAD); and Sydney’s Ignite Festival.

Harriet Martin wrote the Zimbabwe chapter. Born in Tanzania to Australian parents, Harriet lived in
Southern Africa until she was 12. She then studied in Sydney, but the travel gene was never far from
the surface. She backpacked and worked in South and Central America, the Middle East, India and
West Africa, before returning ‘home’ to sub-Saharan Africa.

You can buy, download and

print individual chapters from
this guidebook.
Get Southern Africa chapters>

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
 © Lonely Planet Publications
37

History
Precolonial history of Southern Africa is a compelling, interwoven web of
peoples on the move throughout this vast region – the original travellers
on our planet. It’s also a story of technology and its impact on our early
ancestors. Although Southern Africa’s history stretches far back into the
mists of time, the only records today are intriguing fossil remains and an
extraordinary human diary of Stone Age rock art.
See www.pbs.org/wgbh
The region has revealed many archaeological records of the world’s earli-
/evolution/humans
est human inhabitants. It’s generally agreed among scientists that the first
/humankind for an over-
‘hominids’ (upright-walking humanlike creatures) became established in the
view of human evolution
savannas of East and Southern Africa nearly four million years ago. (Further
in Southern Africa
north in Chad the discovery of a well-preserved skull and other hominid
remains dating to between six and seven million years old – the most ancient
yet discovered – recently had anthropologists quivering with excitement.)
In Southern Africa, evidence of early hominid fossils dating back 3.5
million years has been discovered at the Sterkfontein Caves in Gauteng,
northwest of Johannesburg in South Africa. Sterkfontein is regarded as one
of the richest places on the planet for early human remains and is a World
Heritage Site. In Malawi, archaeologists have found remains thought to date
back as far as 2.5 million years.
It is surmised that about two million years ago several hominid species
evolved with Homo erectus developing basic tool-making abilities and
eventually becoming dominant. Later evolving into Homo sapiens (modern
humans), these early Africans are believed to have backpacked to other
parts of the world, where local factors determined the racial characteristics
of each group.
Today, remains of temporary camps and stone tools are found throughout
Southern Africa, and one site in Namibia suggests that 750,000 years ago,
these early people were hunting elephants and cutting up carcasses with
large stone axes. By 150,000 years ago, people were using lighter spear heads,
knives, saws and other tools. (Archaeologists classify this period of tool
making as the Stone Age, subdivided into the Early, Middle and Late stages,
although the term applies to the people’s level of technological development,
rather than to a specific period.) See Matobo in Zimbabwe p722 and Morija
in Lesotho p149, for details of where to see early Stone Age artefacts.

EARLY KHOISAN INHABITANTS

By about 30,000 years ago, humans in Southern Africa had developed an
organised hunting and gathering society. Tools were more sophisticated –
made from wood and animal products as well as stone – and make-up, natural
pigments used for personal adornment, was in fashion. These Boskop people
(named after the site in South Africa where their remains were discovered)
To learn more about
are believed to be the ancestors of the San people, who still exist in isolated
the San, including their
pockets today.
history and current issues
By about 20,000 years ago, the San had made significant technological
for survival, see www
progress. Tools became smaller and better designed, which increased hunt-
.kalaharipeoples.org, a
ing efficiency and allowed time for further innovation, artistic pursuits
nonprofit organisation
and admiring the fiery African sunsets. This stage is called the Microlithic
dedicated to the people
Revolution because it was characterised by the working of small stones.
of the Kalahari.
The remains of microliths are often found alongside clear evidence of
food gathering, shellfish remains and working of wood, bone and ostrich
eggshell.
 38 HISTORY •• Early Khoisan Inhabitants lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com HISTORY •• The Bantu Migration 39

termed Khoisan or Khoi-San, and are mostly found in remote parts of

ANCIENT ROCK ART Namibia and Botswana.
Ogling some of the magnificent rock art sprinkled around Southern Africa, a remarkable human Sadly, in recent times the San have been controversially and forcibly
diary left by an ancient people, is a major highlight for many visitors. There’s a lot of specula- relocated from their ancestral lands to new government settlements such as
tion about the origins of the ancient rock paintings and engravings. Due to the tools and animal New Xade in the central Kalahari in Botswana. For more information see
remains left around major sites, and the scenes depicted, it’s believed the artists were the early the boxed text, p119.
San people.
A tantalising sliver of mankind’s Stone Age existence, these sites provide a snapshot of the THE BANTU MIGRATION
way the San lived and hunted, and their spirituality. The most poignant thing about rock art is While the Khoisan were developing, in West Africa another group with
that it remains in the spot where it was created. Unlike in a museum, you may catch a glimpse larger body types and darker skin was emerging: the Bantu. By around 3000
of the inspiration that actually went into the paintings. Although rock art is found all over South- to 4000 years ago, they had developed iron-working skills, which enabled
ern Africa, the best examples are probably in Matobo National Park (p722), Domboshawa and them to make tools and weapons.
Ngomakurira (p702), all in Zimbabwe; the Tsodilo Hills (p117) in Botswana; Twyfelfontein (p349) Their skills led to improved farming methods and the ability to make
in Namibia; and Giant’s Castle (p520) in South Africa. unwanted guests of themselves on their neighbours’ lands. Over 2000 years
Most rock paintings reflected people’s relationship with nature. Some rock paintings are stylised ago the Bantu moved into the Congo Basin and, over the next thousand years,
representations of the region’s people and animals, but the majority are realistic portrayals of hunt- spread across present-day Uganda, Kenya and Tanzania and migrated south
ers, giraffes, elephants, rhinos, lions, antelopes and so on in rich red, yellow, brown and ochre. into Zambia, Malawi, Mozambique and other parts of Southern Africa. The
Common themes include the roles of men and women, hunting scenes and natural medicine. term ‘migration’ here refers to a sporadic and very slow spread over many
History of Southern
The latter includes examples of trance dancing and spiritual healing using the San life force, hundreds of years. Typically, a group would move from valley to valley, or
Africa by JD Omer-Cooper
known as nxum, which was invoked to control aspects of the natural world, including climate from one water source to the next. This process inevitably had a knock-on
provides an excellent,
and disease. All these elements still feature in San tradition. effect, as weaker tribes were constantly being ‘moved on’ by invaders from
highly readable account
Although climatic onslaught means the earliest works have long faded, flaked and eroded other areas.
of the early peoples of
into oblivion, the dry climate and sheltered granite overhangs have preserved many of the more At first, the Bantu in Southern Africa apparently lived in relative harmony
Southern Africa, including
recent paintings. Three distinct periods have been identified: the earliest paintings seem to reflect with the original Khoisan inhabitants, trading goods, language and culture.
fascinating cultural detail
a period of gentle nomadism, during which people were occupied primarily with the hunt; later However, as Bantu numbers increased, some Khoisan were conquered or
that differentiates the
works, which revealed great artistic improvement, suggest peaceful arrivals by outside groups, absorbed by this more advanced group of peoples, while the remainder were
many Bantu-speaking
perhaps Bantu or Khoikhoi; the final stage indicates a decline in the standard of the paintings – pushed further and further into inhospitable lands.
groups.
or they may be imitations of earlier works by more recently arrived peoples.
Red pigments were ground mainly from iron oxides, which were powdered and mixed with BANTU CULTURE & EARLY KINGDOMS
animal fat to form an adhesive paste. The whites came from silica, powdered quartz and white A feature of Bantu culture was its strong social system, based on extended
clays, and were by nature less adhesive than the red pigments. For this reason white paintings family or clan loyalties and dependencies, and generally centred on the rule
survive only in sheltered locations, such as well-protected caves. Both pigments were applied to of a chief. Some chiefdoms developed into powerful kingdoms, uniting many
the rock using sticks, the artists’ fingers and brushes made from animal hair. disparate tribes and covering large geographical areas.
While admiring the rock art of the Southern Africa, please keep in mind the fragility of the Cattle played an essential role in the lives of Southern Africa’s Bantu
paintings (p26). population. Apart from providing food, skins and a form of capital, cattle
were also most essential when it came to bridewealth. Marriage involved
the transfer of a woman to the household of her husband. In turn, the
By about 10,000 years ago, the San began producing pottery. The artistic cattle from the husband’s family were reassigned to the family of the
traditions of these people are also evidenced by the wonderful paintings bride’s father. A man who had many daughters would one day end up
that can be seen today in rock shelters and caves all over Southern Africa with many cattle.
(see the boxed text, above). The better examples capture the elegance and One of the earliest Bantu kingdoms was Gokomere, in the uplands of
movement of African wildlife with astonishing clarity. More recent paintings Zimbabwe. The Gokomere people are thought to be the first occupants of
In 1660 Jan Van Riebeeck
even depict white farmers. the Great Zimbabwe site (p716), near present-day Masvingo.
planted a bitter-almond
Despite these artistic and technical developments, the San had no knowl- Between AD 500 and 1000 the Gokomere and subsequent groups de-
hedge separating the
edge of metal working, and thus remain classified as Stone Age people. For veloped gold-mining techniques and produced progressively finer-quality
Dutch from the Khoikhoi.
visitors interested in San culture, consider visiting sites of spiritual signifi- ceramics, jewellery, textiles and soapstone carvings.
Parts of the hedge can
cance, especially the Tsodilo Hills (p117) in Botswana.
still be seen today (p426).
During this same period (around 8000 BC), the San came under pressure
from another group called the Khoikhoi (or Khoi-Khoi), known in more THE BANTU
recent times as Hottentots. The San and Khoikhoi are thought to share a The Bantu peoples could more accurately be called ‘Bantu-speaking peoples’ since the word
common ancestry: differences were slight, based more on habitat and life- ‘Bantu’ actually refers to a language group rather than a specific race. However, it has become a
style than on significant physiological features. (The Khoikhoi kept cattle, convenient term of reference for the black African peoples of Southern and Eastern Africa, even
which were a source of food and transport, and were even trained to charge though the grouping is as ill-defined as ‘American’ or ‘Asian’. The Bantu ethnic group comprises
the enemy in warfare.) They also shared a language group, characterised many subgroups or tribes, each with their own language, customs and traditions.
by distinctive ‘click’ sounds. Today these two peoples are regarded as one,
 © Lonely Planet Publications
40 HISTORY •• Early Traders lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y • • T h e D i f a q a n e 41

EARLY TRADERS held out. One of Africa’s most traditional cultures, the Himba people (see the
Meanwhile, from the latter half of the 1st millennium, Arabs from the lands boxed text, p352) in Namibia, are descended from the Herero.
around the Red Sea were sailing southwards along the eastern seaboard of The power of the Bantu kingdoms started to falter in the late 18th and
Today’s Herero women
Africa. They traded with the local Bantu inhabitants, who by this time had early 19th centuries due to a major dispersal of indigenous tribes called the
are distinguished by
reached the coast, and bought ivory, gold and slaves to take back to Arabia. difaqane, and a rapid increase in the number of European settlers.
their extravagant neck to
Between AD 1000 and 1500 the Arab-influenced Bantu founded several
major settlements along the coast, from Mogadishu (in present-day Somalia) to THE DIFAQANE ankle Victorian dresses,
petticoats and large
Kilwa in southern Tanzania, including Lamu (Kenya) and Zanzibar (Tanzania). The difaqane (meaning ‘forced migration’ in Sotho, or mfeqane, ‘the crush-
hats – a by-product of
In Kenya and Tanzania particularly, the Bantu people were influenced by the ing’, in Zulu) was a period of immense upheaval and suffering for the in-
contact with German
Arabs, and a certain degree of intermarriage occurred, so that gradually a mixed digenous peoples of Southern Africa. It originated in the early 19th century
missionaries.
language and culture was created, called Swahili, which remains intact today. when the Nguni tribes in modern KwaZulu-Natal (South Africa) changed
From southern Tanzania the Swahili-Arabs traded along the coast of rapidly from loosely organised collections of chiefdoms to the more central-
present-day Mozambique, establishing bases at Quelimane (p273) and Ilha ised Zulu Nation. Based on its highly disciplined and powerful warrior army,
de Moçambique (p278). the process began under Chief Dingiswayo, and reached its peak under the
From the coast the Swahili-Arabs pushed into the interior, and developed military commander Shaka Zulu.
a network of trade routes across much of East and Southern Africa. Ivory and Shaka was a ruthless conqueror and his reputation preceded him. Not sur-
To read more about
gold continued to be sought after, but the demand for slaves grew consider- prisingly, tribes living in his path chose to flee, in turn displacing neighbours
Shaka Zulu (and for links
ably, and reached its zenith in the early-19th century when the Swahili-Arabs and causing disruption and terror across Southern Africa. Tribes displaced
to the difaqane), see
and dominant local tribes are reckoned to have either killed or sold into from Zululand include the Matabele, who settled in present-day Zimbabwe,
www.sahistory.org
slavery 80,000 to 100,000 Africans per year. while the Ngoni fled to Malawi and Zambia. Notable survivors were the
.za/pages/people/zulu
Swazi (see p598) and Basotho (p136), who forged powerful kingdoms that
LATER BANTU KINGDOMS & PEOPLE became Swaziland and Lesotho. -shaka.htm
As early as the 11th century, the inhabitants of Great Zimbabwe had come
into contact with Arab-Swahili traders from the coast. Great Zimbabwe EUROPEAN COLONISATION & SETTLEMENT
became the capital of the wealthiest and most powerful society in Southern Although there had been a European presence in Southern Africa for several
Africa – its people the ancestors of today’s Shona people – and reached the hundred years, in 1820 the British Cape Colony saw a major influx of settlers.
zenith of its powers around the 14th century (see p682), becoming the great- Around 5000 were brought from Britain on the promise of fertile farmland
est medieval city in sub-Saharan Africa. around the Great Fish River, but in reality to form a buffer between the
From around the 11th century it appears that more advanced Bantu- Boers (to the west of the river) and the Xhosa (to the east), who competed
speaking Iron Age people migrated to the area, absorbing the earlier immi- for territory.
A journey through South
grants. As they settled they branched out into a number of cultural groups. From this point, European settlement rapidly spread from the Cape
Africa, Botswana and
One of these groups, the Nguni, were distinguished from their neighbours Colony to Natal and later to the Transvaal – especially after the discovery
Zimbabwe, The Electronic
by strict matrimony rules – marriage was forbidden to a partner that could of gold and diamonds. In many cases Europeans were able to occupy land
An Introduction to the Elephant by Dan Jacobson
be traced to a common ancestor. The Xhosa were the southernmost of these abandoned by African people following the difaqane (see p402).
History of Central Africa – combines frequently
people: see p466. Covering large areas of present-day South Africa, Botswana From South Africa, over the next 100 to 150 years an ever-increasing
Zambia, Malawi and depressing contemporary
and Lesotho were the Sotho-Tswana, who encouraged intercousin marriage. number of Europeans settled in areas that became the colonies of Swaziland,
Zimbabwe by AJ Wills encounters with fascinat-
The Venda, who have a matriarchal culture and are thought to be related to Nyasaland (Malawi), Northern and Southern Rhodesia (Zambia and Zim-
provides a comprehensive ing historical flashbacks.
the Shona people of Zimbabwe, occupied the north of Limpopo province babwe), Bechuanaland (Botswana), Basotholand (Lesotho), German South
work on the region and
in South Africa (see p575). West Africa (Namibia) and Portuguese East Africa (Mozambique). With
is considered one of the
Further north, between the 14th and 16th centuries, another Bantu group this change Southern Africans would never again be permitted to follow
best around.
called the Maravi (of whom the Chewa became the dominant tribe, see p163) entirely traditional ways.
arrived in Southern Africa from the Congo Basin and founded a powerful For colonial and modern history of the individual countries, see the
kingdom covering southern Malawi and parts of present-day Mozambique and relevant country chapters.
Zambia. Masks made by a men’s secret society called Nyau were an integral
part of ceremonies for this group. As well as representing cultural ideals with
themes such as wisdom, sickness, death and the ancestors, masks also cari-
catured undesirables such as slave traders, invaders and colonial figures.
At about the same time the Tumbuka and the Phoka groups migrated into
the north of Malawi (see p158). The Tumbuka are known for their healing
practices, which combine traditional medicine and music.
During the 16th and 17th centuries, another Bantu group called the Herero
migrated from the Zambezi Valley into present-day Namibia, where they
came into conflict with the San and competed with the Khoikhoi for the best
grazing lands. Eventually most indigenous groups submitted to the Herero.
Only the Nama people, thought to be descended from early Khoikhoi groups,
 © Lonely Planet Publications
42 lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • D a i l y L i fe 43

The Culture
With hundreds of thousands dying every year in Southern Africa from AIDS
alone, population growth is estimated to be near zero in most countries and
even falling into the negative. Swaziland and Mozambique in particular
are suffering from an increase in the epidemic. The only good news comes
DAILY LIFE from Zimbabwe (for a change), which recently recorded a decline of HIV-
Giving an accurate picture of everyday life in Southern Africa is virtually infected people.
impossible given the chasm of wealth differentiation between and within All the countries in Southern Africa are conservative in their attitudes
the countries of the region. That said, there are some generalisations we towards gay men and lesbians (see p745). In traditional African societies gay
can make that represent very real (and in some cases very terrifying) trends sexual relationships are a cultural taboo. In practice, rights for gay citizens
afflicting the everyday life of Southern Africa’s diverse population. For contrast strongly between countries. South Africa’s progressive constitution,
more country-specific detail, please see this section near the beginning of for example, outlaws discrimination on the basis of sexual orientation, and
each country chapter. gay couples have won many rights. On the other hand Namibia and Zim-
In Southern Africa, life varies considerably between the ‘haves’ and the babwe have strongly condemned homosexuality with President Mugabe
‘have nots’. Middle-class and wealthy families live in homes reflecting that describing them as ‘worse than pigs and dogs’.
wealth, and many leafy, richer neighbourhoods could be just about anywhere South Africa has one of the highest incidence of rape in the world (p407)
in the Western world. Leisure time is often defined by time spent at shopping and, as many are too afraid to report the crime, the true extent of the prob-
centres (and in the case of South Africa, heavily guarded shopping centres). lem is probably much worse than official figures. Another tragic issue in
Upmarket shopping malls mean alfresco dining, plenty of retail therapy and the region is sexual abuse in schools; the sexual abuse of girls by teachers
certainly a place ‘to be seen’.
However, for the millions of Southern Africans (the vast majority of the
population) who still live in great poverty, life is about survival. Simple huts THE FAMINE
or enclosures contain large extended families, and obtaining and preparing In 2005 much of the Southern African region was lurching headlong towards famine. Fortunately,
food is the focus of daily life. in early 2006, it appeared a real crisis had been temporarily averted through good rains and aid
Southern Africa is largely still a male domain, and black African men will delivery, although food shortages and hunger remain critically serious problems. At one stage it
not normally give up a seat to a woman, never mind that she is carrying a was feared that between 10 and 12 million people faced potential starvation. Heard it all before?
baby and luggage and minding two toddlers. Local whites, however, generally Well, that’s probably because the region suffers from a seemingly endless cycle of food insecurity –
follow Western conventions. but that doesn’t make it any less real or less horrifying. Some countries in this region are in their
Masters of Illusion: The
There are two major plights affecting the households of the majority of fourth consecutive year of severe food shortages.
World Bank and the
Southern Africa’s population. Firstly, the food insecurity afflicting the region The simple reason is prolonged dry spells, which leads to crop failure. The reasons behind the
Poverty of Nations by
is a distressing problem that devastates households and seems to have no region’s continued problems in feeding itself are more complex and deeply rooted. There are a
Catherine Caufield dis-
end in sight. Dependent on the rains, the region is caught up in a merciless multitude of causes including inadequate agricultural policies, the ripping away of a generation
cusses the influence that
cycle of drought that, when combined with other factors (see the boxed text, of workers through the HIV/AIDS epidemic, a lack of employment opportunities, bad governance
the global development
opposite), leads to regular food shortages. Malawi, Zambia and Zimbabwe and environmental degradation.
lending agency has had
are the worst-affected countries, but people in Mozambique, Lesotho and The situation varies between countries in Southern Africa with Malawi (see the boxed text,
on poor countries around
Swaziland are also suffering. p162), Zambia and Zimbabwe possibly facing the worst of the current crisis. For more on how
the world.
The largest problem facing the people of Southern Africa, though, is AIDS. the famine has affected Lesotho, see p138, and for Swaziland, see p602.
The sub-Saharan region is the worst-affected region in Africa and, while the If you’re looking to make a financial donation to assist in alleviating this continuing crisis
statistics are simply dreadful, the socioeconomic effects are overwhelming. or would like information, you can get in touch with the following organisations (most accept
South Africa has the world’s largest HIV-positive population, and national donations online):
adult HIV prevalence has risen higher than previously thought possible in
countries such as Botswana and Swaziland. UN World Food Programme (www.wfp.org) Make a direct donation to help feed people in the region specify-
Have a look at www
Unlike diseases that attack the weak, AIDS predominantly hits the produc- ing that you want your money to go towards the effort in Southern Africa.
.safaids.org.zw for the
tive members of a household, young adults. It’s particularly rife among those Oxfam (www.oxfam.org.uk) Plenty of up-to-date information about the crisis and their work in Malawi, Zambia
latest news on the
who are highly educated, and have relatively high earnings and mobility. and Zimbabwe.
battle against HIV/AIDS in
This has an enormous impact on household incomes, with the region fac- Save the Children (www.savethechildren.org) Working in Malawi, Zimbabwe, Mozambique and Zambia, this
Southern Africa.
ing the loss of a large proportion of a generation in the prime of their life. organisation has a special emphasis on the protection of children.
This has also meant a sharp increase in the number of orphans, pressure Care International (www.care.org) Care is contributing food, tools, fertilisers and training for local farmers in
on grandparents to assume parenting roles of young children and children the affected countries in Southern Africa.
pulled out of school to care for the sick, grow food or earn money. There’s Red Cross (www.redcross.org.uk) Provides emergency food aid in Malawi, Zimbabwe, Zambia, Mozambique,
still a lot of stigma attached to AIDS too, and many locals won’t admit to Swaziland, Namibia and Lesotho.
the cause of a loved one’s death. World Vision (www.worldvision.org) As one of the largest long-term development and relief NGOs operating in
AIDS has led to a sharp decrease in life expectancy in Southern Africa. the region, World Vision provides emergency food distribution and help to recover lost livelihoods.
Recent projections have put life expectancy by 2010 at 29 in Botswana, 30 Christian Charity Tearfund (www.tearfund.org) Local Christian organisations work in conjunction with
in Swaziland, 33 in Namibia and Zimbabwe and 36 in South Africa and Tearfund running food-for-work programmes, distributing food aid and supporting agricultural projects.
Malawi. Without AIDS it would be around 70 in most of these countries.
 44 T H E C U LT U R E • • M u l t i c u l t u r a l i s m lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • S p o r t 45

is an enormous problem, and as a result, many girls are reluctant to attend

school. The perpetrators often cite low wages and poor working conditions MOVERS & SHAKERS
as justification for partaking of this perceived ‘fringe benefit’. Sadly, national For every country chapter in this book we’ve included a boxed text called ‘Movers & Shakers’,
and local governments and individuals have so far done little to express their which profiles an influential African from that country, including: Oliver Mtukudzi (Zimbabwe;
intolerance for such unacceptable behaviour. p701); Nelson Mandela (South Africa; p408); Sir Seretse Khama (Botswana; p83); Samuel Nujoma
The contribution of foreign aid to the development of Southern Africa (Namibia; p310); Jack Mapanje (Malawi; p164); Malangatana Valente Ngwenya (Mozambique;
and improvement of the daily life of its citizens is difficult to quantify. While p244); King Mswati III (Swaziland; p600); Fanuel Musi of Malealea (Lesotho; p149); and Kenneth
aid that increases grassroots development capability and food production Kaunda (Zambia; p636). If you want an insight into some of the extraordinary people who have
is basically seen as positive, an unhealthy culture of aid dependency is seen influenced life in Southern Africa, keep an eye out for these boxes.
as a serious issue in the region, and it’s particularly bad in Malawi, Zambia
and Lesotho.
Likewise, there has been a drift (some say avalanche) of Zimbabweans
MULTICULTURALISM looking for work illegally in Botswana. The reason is simple – Botswana has
Southern Africa’s population is made up of Bantu-speaking people (the a booming economy while Zimbabwe has the fastest-shrinking economy in
majority) who migrated from the north and west of the African continent the world outside a war zone.
(p39), later-arriving Europeans (including Dutch, British, Portuguese and Back home, a migrant’s money makes a big difference to the local economy –
Germans), Indians and pockets of the Khoisan, an ancient Stone Age people Lesotho is a good example, with many travelling to South Africa to work
who survives in small numbers, mainly in Botswana and Namibia (p37). in mines and send money back home to their families. It is widely agreed,
‘Bantu’ refers to a convenient language-grouping, not a race, and in reality however, that this type of migration has also contributed to the spread of
the Bantu ethnic group comprises many subgroups or tribes, each with their HIV/AIDS.
own language, customs and traditions, living all over the region.
Broadly speaking, two societies and cultures (Western and African) run SPORT
in parallel, and they rarely cross. As you might expect, in a Western situa- Football (soccer) is without doubt the most popular sport across Southern
tion social customs are similar to those in Europe, although often a touch Africa, especially for black Africans. You’ll see dusty fields everywhere
‘Southern more formal – but at the same time more friendly – than in other parts of with ragtag balls used for informal matches – training grounds for the big
For all your Southern
Africa is very the Western world. For example, Afrikaners will often shake hands and say leagues.
African football news,
their name, even if you’re only meeting them briefly. While you’ll meet locals Essentially the national leagues work in a similar way to European football.
multicultural of European origin and ‘Europeanised’ black Africans all over the region, Unsurprisingly, South Africa has the major league (www.psl.co.za), which including the regional
and surpris- the societies and cultures are predominantly African. runs from August to May. The winners of each league qualify for the African competition, see www
.cosafa.com, or check
ingly peace- Southern Africa is very multicultural and surprisingly peaceful given Champions League, in which the champions of countries from all over the
out www.cafonline.com
the extraordinary number of ethnic groups. This concoction of peoples is continent compete. The best countries compete in the African Cup of Na-
ful given the exemplified in South Africa, which has 11 official languages! While much tions, held every two years: the next one is in Ghana in 2008. Although no for the African football
extraordi- of the focus has been on black and white relations here, there is also fric- Southern African countries qualified for the 2006 World Cup, South Africa confederation, includ-
ing details on club and
nary number tion and distrust between blacks, coloureds and South Africans of Indian is hosting it in 2010.
country competitions.
descent. However, in the case of South Africa, the relatively peaceful transi- The Cosafa Castle Cup, run by the Council of Southern Africa Football
of ethnic tion to democracy from the last remaining white minority government in Associations, is the annual regional competition, with participation by 13
groups’ the region in 1994 (p406) was a true miracle of multiculturalism, despite countries, including all nine Southern African countries. Zambia and Zim-
ongoing racial friction. babwe are the most successful, having both won the Cup twice each.
Integrating European and African populations has been a source of ten- Although cricket, rugby and golf have traditionally been the domain of the
sion for many years in the region, exacerbated by colonial rule, apartheid white population, they have grown in stature and popularity, especially in
governments and, in Zimbabwe, a policy of reclaiming white-owned farms South Africa, with that country’s return to the international scene. Zimbabwe
in recent years. However, disharmony stretches much further back with the also fields an international cricket side, but availability of foreign exchange
destruction and dispersal of the difaqane (p41), which led to tribal affilia- (through international TV rights) has meant that the national cricket body
tions being disrupted among various Bantu groups in the region. This was is corrupt and has almost ruined the sport.
exacerbated in South Africa by the Great Trek and the Voortrekkers, who
settled into areas they believed were ‘vacant’ (see p402). RELIGION
Migration from the poorer countries to the wealthier countries in the Christianity
region has also brought about tensions and hostility. South Africa for example Most people in Southern Africa follow Christianity or traditional religion,
has far more job opportunities than other countries in the region, and this often combining aspects of both. South Africa, Malawi, Botswana and Na-
has led to a great number of migrant workers (many illegal) drifting there. mibia have very high Christian populations (anywhere between 70% and
Many come through and are from Mozambique. Africans who look differ- 80% of the general population), while Mozambique has the lowest (around
ent or don’t speak the local language are often harassed by officialdom and 35%). All the Western-style Christian churches are represented (Catholics,
the police. Locals are often suspicious of such people too as they think they Protestants, Baptists, Adventists etc), most of which were introduced in co-
are stealing their jobs and are responsible for crime (although there are no lonial times by European missionaries. Their spread across the region reflects
statistics to back that up). their colonial roots – the dominant Christian sect in Namibia is German
 46 T H E C U LT U R E • • R e l i g i o n lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s 47

Lutheranism, while Malawi is dominated by Protestant churches, founded earnings may be little more than this. It’s a sad fact that the ‘witches’ who are
by British missionaries. Mozambique’s Portuguese heritage means Roman unearthed are frequently those who cannot defend themselves – the sick, the
Catholicism is favoured among that country’s Christians. old or the very poorest members of society. There are even reports of very
The influence of missionaries has been beneficial in education, campaign- young children being accused by witchdoctors of harbouring evil spirits.
ing against the slave trade and in trying to raise the standard of living in
South Africa’s Archbishop
Desmond Tutu said,
Southern Africa; however, this was tempered by their search for ideological ARTS
control and disruption to traditional cultures. They were certainly influential Rock art created by the San people since time immemorial is the one artistic
‘When the missionaries
in Malawi (see p159) where the country’s history and existence was shaped tradition that unifies the region, and can still be seen today in many Southern
came to Africa they had
by missionaries such as Dr Livingstone. African countries (see the boxed text, p38).
the Bible and we had the
Although Christian denominations in Southern Africa are generally con- The countries and indigenous peoples of Southern Africa all have their
land. They said, “Let us
servative, many churches actively participate in the fight against HIV/AIDS. own artistic traditions, often interwoven with culture and beliefs. See the
pray.” We closed our eyes. Images of Power by
Organisations such as CUAHA (Churches against HIV/AIDS; www.cuaha.info) and CRWRC individual country chapters for country-specific information.
When we opened them D Lewis-Williams &
(Christians Reformed World Relief Committee; www.crwrc.org/development/aids.html) work with When travelling around the region the more popular handicrafts you’re
we had the Bible and T Dowson is a fascinating
local churches to support families, care for those afflicted by the disease and likely to see (and be able to purchase) include the following: San crafts
they had the land.’ study of the art of the
reduce the stigma associated with AIDS. Roman Catholic bishops in Southern (particularly in Namibia and Botswana) such as jewellery and leatherwork,
San people, utilising
Africa, however, have controversially condemned the use of condoms in the bows and arrows and ostrich shell beads; mohair products such as tapestries
modern scientific tech-
fight against AIDS. and ponchos, especially in Lesotho and South Africa; wooden carvings, es-
niques and rediscovered
Many indigenous Christian faiths have also been established, ranging pecially in places where tourists are likely to wander – wildlife carvings such
records of discussions
from a small congregation meeting in a simple hut to vast organisations with as huge giraffes are popular, and you’ll even find earthmovers, aeroplanes
between the San and
millions of followers, such as the Zion and Apostolic churches in Zimbabwe and helicopters; exquisite palm-woven and African-themed baskets, particu-
early European settlers.
and South Africa. In South Africa alone the Zion Church claims four million larly renowned in Botswana; pottery, often highly decorative and of course
followers (the largest in the country). very practical; Shona sculpture (Zimbabwean), renowned worldwide, with
recurring themes like the metamorphosis of man into beast and Makonde
Islam sculpture (Mozambican); glassware and candles (Swazi) in the shape of
Islam is also followed in some areas, predominantly in the north of Malawi regional wildlife and in the case of the former often made from recyclable
and along its lakeshore, and in the northern provinces of Mozambique, where material; and township art, which has developed sober themes in an expres-
35% of the population attest to the Islamic faith, the highest percentage in sive, colourful and usually light-hearted manner. Ranging from complex
Southern Africa. There are also Hindus and Jews, particularly in South Africa, wirework toys to prints and paintings, deceptively naive images in township
but their numbers are small. art can embody messages far from simple. It developed through the political
trauma in South Africa, and this is often reflected in the violent themes of
Traditional the work. It has also spread to other countries in the region.
There are many traditional religions in Southern Africa, but no great tem- Galleries in the region display works from Southern African artists and
ples or written scriptures. For outsiders, beliefs can be complex (and to the include more traditional sculpture and paintings. Painters often interpret the
If you’ve developed
Western mind, illogical), as can the rituals and ceremonies that surround landscape, wildlife and the diverse peoples of the region – Namibia, South
a taste for wonderful
them. Most traditional religions are animist – based on the attribution of life Africa, Mozambique and Zambia in particular have galleries that display
Shona sculpture but had
or consciousness to natural objects or phenomena – and many accept the work from local artists.
no room in your bag to
existence of a Supreme Being, with whom communication is possible through
the intercession of ancestors. Thus, ancestors play a particularly strong role. Literature bring some home, see
www.shonaart.co.za to
Their principal function is to protect the tribe or family, and they may on Southern Africa has a strong tradition of oral literature among the various
order online.
occasion show their pleasure (such as a good harvest) or displeasure (such Bantu groups. Traditions and stories were preserved and transmitted orally
as a member of the family becoming sick). from generation to generation. In many parts of the region written language
was introduced only by Christian missionaries and assumed more importance
WITCHCRAFT in the 20th century. Common forms of literature that have developed include The Penguin Book of
Within many traditional African religions, there is a belief in spells and magic short stories, novels and poetry. Southern African Stories,
(usually called witchcraft or, in some places, mutu). In brief simplistic terms it Although writers have focused on themes usually concerning their own edited by Stephen Gray,
goes like this: physical or mental illnesses are often ascribed to a spell or curse country, there are common threads. Nationalism, white minority rule, the features stories (some of
having been put on the sufferer. Often, a relative or villager is suspected of struggle for independence and life after colonialism are all themes explored which are thousands of
being the ‘witch’ who placed the curse, usually for reasons of spite or jealousy. by Southern African writers. In Malawi (p165) oppression and abuse of years old) from around
A traditional doctor, also called a diviner or witchdoctor, is then required to power were common themes through the Banda years, after independence. the region. The stories
hunt out the witch and cure the victim. This is done in different ways in vari- Guerrilla poets such as Marcelino dos Santos from Mozambique (p243) show the similarities and
ous parts of the region, and may involve the use of herbs, divining implements, make fascinating reading. In many countries the growth of literature has common threads in vari-
prayers, chanting, dance or placing the spell in a bottle and casting it into a paralleled the struggle for independence and freedom. ous literary traditions.
remote spot (if you find such a bottle in the bush, don’t touch it!). Works by authors like Bessie Head from Botswana (p84) address African
However, services do not come free of charge, and many witchdoctors village life and landscape, and Zimbabwean writers (p689) include precolonial
demand high payments – up to US$20, in countries where an average month’s traditions, myths and folk tales in their writings.
 48 T H E C U LT U R E • • F o o d & D r i n k lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • F o o d & D r i n k 49

Stephen Gill has written several historical books on Lesotho (p152) and, meals. In a region racked by famine (see the boxed text, p43), with many
thanks to him, archives were established and much local history saved. countries not able to consistently produce enough food to feed their own
White South African writers have had much overseas success, with literary population, food is about functionality, not creativity.
giants such as Nadime Gordimer and JM Coetzee both awarded Nobel Prizes South Africa is the best place to eat and certainly has the most variety,
for literature. If you want to get a sense of where South Africa has come from an inheritance of its varied African, European and Asian population. Here
and where it’s going, delving into its literary roots is a good start (p410). Local you’ll find a fusion of influences from the curry and coriander that wafted
literature takes you back into the days of apartheid (from both a black and over the Indian Ocean to Afrikaner favourites such as steaks that resemble
white perspective) and the realities of building the rainbow nation. half a cow and boerewors, a tasty Afrikaner sausage, and Cape Malay cuisine,
an exotic mix of spices and local produce.
Architecture Seafood is popular in places that have a coastline (be it lake or ocean),
The greatest indigenous architectural legacy is in the past – in Zimbabwe both with locals and travellers. In Swaziland you’ll readily find prawns on
The excellent Traveller’s
the ruins of great stone cities such as Khami (p722) and Great Zimbabwe menus, courtesy of Mozambique, which itself blends a variety of influences
Literary Companion to
(p716) are rare examples of medieval African architecture in the region. (African, Indian and Portuguese) into its delectable seafood offerings. In
Africa, edited by Oona
Mapungubwe (p575) in South Africa also contains excellent examples of Malawi eating chambo (fried fish) by the lake is a highlight. Around the Cape
Strathern, includes over
ancient historical buildings from a forgotten kingdom. and Winelands of South Africa look for lightly spiced fish stews, snoekbraai
250 prose and poetry
Architecturally, the colonial legacy in Southern Africa is dominated by (grilled snoek), mussels, oysters and even lobster.
extracts from all over
European designs, with South Africa containing by far the best examples. A favourite for many visitors to Southern Africa is the fruit, and depending
Africa, with an introduc-
Pretoria’s stately Union Building has won acclaim, while Art Deco design on the season you’ll find bananas, pineapples, pawpaw (papaya), mangoes ‘meat fea-
tion to the writing of
each country, plus a list
sprang up in Durban and Cape Town after building booms in the early 20th and avocados in plentiful supply. tures as a
century. Unique Cape Dutch buildings, especially townhouses, can be seen
of ‘literary landmarks’ –
in Cape Town. Examples of 19th- and 20th-century English architecture Staples & Specialities staple and
real features that appear
(especially Victorian) can be seen in many parts of the region and at times in In parts of Southern Africa, especially in South Africa, Namibia and Bot- anything
in novels written about
the country.
the most unlikely of places (such as Livingstonia in Malawi, p179, and Shiwa swana, meat features as a staple and anything that can be grilled is, including that can
Ng’andu in Zambia, p652), while in Namibia, Germany has left a colonial ostrich, crocodile, warthog and kudu – just a few of the variants you’ll find.
legacy of late 19th century–designed places, including Art Nouveau design. Meat also features in local celebrations. be grilled
In Mozambique, Ilha de Moçambique is an architectural treasure trove and Takeaway snack food found on the street may include bits of grilled meat, is, includ-
includes the oldest European building in the southern hemisphere (p278). deep-fried potato or cassava chips, roasted corn cobs, boiled eggs, peanuts ing ostrich,
Safari lodges, such as those in Zimbabwe, can be architecturally exceptional – (locally called ground nuts), biscuits, cakes, fried dough balls, which ap-
a mix of an English sensibility with African pieces and environment. proximate doughnuts, and miniature green bananas. Prices are always dirt crocodile,
cheap (unfortunately, often with the emphasis on dirt). warthog and
Dance For something more substantial but still inexpensive, the most common kudu’
In Southern Africa, dance, along with music, is often closely linked with, meal is the regional staple, boiled maize meal, which is called mielie pap in
The Heinemann Book of
and plays an important role in, social function rather than being mere en- South Africa and Namibia, sadza in Zimbabwe, and nshima or nsima in
African Poetry in English,
tertainment. Movement is regarded as an important type of communication countries further north. In Botswana, the staple is known as bogobe, in which
edited by Adewale
in traditional African societies, and dance can be associated with contact sorghum replaces the maize. When fresh and well cooked, all varieties are
Maja-Pearce, includes
between spirits and the living, and traditional healers often performed both tasty and filling, and are usually eaten with a relish, which is either very
poetry by writers from
curative dances to rid patients of sickness. Symbolic gestures, mime, props, simple (eg boiled vegetable leaves) or something more substantial, such as a
several African countries,
masks, costumes and body painting can all play a part. If you have the chance stew of beef, fish, beans or chicken.
including Zimbabwe and
to see traditional song and dance while you’re in Southern Africa, try not The main meal is at noon, so most cheap eateries are closed in the evening.
South Africa.
to miss out; places where it’s possible to do this are listed throughout the In the morning you can buy coffee or tea (with or without milk – the
country chapters.
Dance also helps to define culture and in Swaziland, for example, the
Umhlanga (reed) dance (see the boxed text, p607) plays a very important TRAVEL YOUR TASTEBUDS
role in society, drawing the nation together and reinforcing Swazi culture. If you’re not squeamish about watching wildlife during the day and then sampling it in the
Mozambicans are excellent dancers, and Arabic influence is evident in their evening, meat lovers can try some (non-endangered) local produce: such dishes as warthog stew,
slow swaying rhythms – check out the Mozambique National Company of buffalo steak or impala sausages go down a treat. They can be hard to find, but wildlife lodges
Song & Dance (p253). and upmarket restaurants are usually the best bet.
Bunny chow is a South African favourite, also popular in Swaziland. It’s basically curry inside a
FOOD & DRINK hollowed-out loaf, messy to eat but quite delicious. Finally, that South African delight you’ll find
Although food is not a real highlight of Southern Africa, things are improving all over the region – biltong – dried meat that should be wrestled from the pack with a strong
all the time. Certainly an urban setting will usually mean more variety, and set of teeth and a sturdy jaw; it’s especially good as fuel for trekking.
the colonial legacy in some countries does mean some intriguing culinary African bush tucker varies across the region among Southern Africa’s indigenous groups – for
combinations. example, the San still eat many desert creatures including caterpillar-like mopane worms, prepared
The business of eating tends to be all about survival for most of the popu- in many different ways, such as deep-fried, or just eaten raw.
lation, and much of the day’s activity is associated with the preparation of
 © Lonely Planet Publications
50 T H E C U LT U R E • • F o o d & D r i n k lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • F o o d & D r i n k 51

latter is cheaper) and bread, sometimes with margarine, or maybe a slightly

sweetened bread-like cake. THE SAN HELP OVERWEIGHT WESTERNERS
Up a notch and popular with tourists are traditional meals of mielies A new diet fad has been sweeping the Western world, and North America in particular, thanks
(cobs of maize) and relish, or Western dishes, such as beef or chicken served to the San people (p37) of Southern Africa. The San eat hoodia, a prickly, cucumber-like plant,
with rice or chips (fries). More elaborate options, such as steaks, pies, fish to suppress their appetite on long hunting treks. Some bright spark realised that if it works
dishes, pasta and something that resembles curry over rice, are worth trying, for some of the last Stone Age people on earth then it should be good for overweight couch
especially for a change. potatoes. Plausible? Maybe. Hoodia-based products are now in production, although scientific
Most cities also have speciality restaurants serving genuine (or at least tests on humans have been minimal to date and there are a lot of ‘fake hoodia’ products going
pretty close to it) Indian, Thai, Chinese, Lebanese, Mexican or ethnic African around. Still, some recipients swear by them.
(such as Ethiopian or West African) cuisine. Hopefully the money made from the sale of this drug in the lucrative weight-loss market
makes its way back to the impoverished San.
Drinks
You can buy tea and coffee in many places, from top-end hotels and restau-
rants to humble local eating houses. Up another level are cheap to midrange restaurants (called a salã de cha
In bars, hotels and bottle stores you can buy beer and spirits, either in Mozambique), with tablecloths, menus and waiters, where meals cost
imported international brands or locally brewed drinks. South African and from US$3 to US$5. Moving up the scale to the midrange, you’ll typically
‘Traditional Namibian beers (Windhoek is excellent) are available throughout the region, pay US$5 to US$10 per person for the standard beef, chicken, fish, lamb
beer of the and in many areas they dominate local markets. Wonderful South African and other dishes, but the price is justified by better quality, presentation,
wines are widely available, as is a growing range of extremely popular spirit location and cleanliness.
region is coolers. At top-end hotels and restaurants in cities and tourist areas, you’ll find
made from Traditional beer of the region is made from maize, brewed in the villages straightforward international standards, including plenty of steak places as
maize, and drunk from communal pots with great ceremony on special occasions, well as French, British and Italian options.
and with less ado in everyday situations. This product, known as chibuku (or South Africa, Namibia and Botswana are also going through something of
brewed in shake-shake), is commercially brewed in many countries and sold in large a fast-food revolution – particularly popular are places specialising in fried
the villages blue paper cartons, or by the bucketful. It’s definitely an acquired taste, and or peri peri (hot chilli) chicken. Ubiquitous chains are becoming common,
and drunk it does pack a punch. and in new shopping malls you’ll even find fast-food Thai, seafood and
Middle Eastern outlets.
from com- Where to Eat & Drink
munal pots’ Street food is sold at roadsides, bus stations (and sometimes through windows Vegetarians & Vegans
of moving buses) or markets all over Africa; cleanliness is not a top priority Vegetarianism isn’t widely understood in Africa, and many locals think a
but it’s cheap and convenient. meal is incomplete unless at least half of it once lived and breathed. That said,
A food stall (also called a tea stall or a barraca in Mozambique), which is a if you’re not worried about variety or taste, finding inexpensive vegetarian
basic eatery selling inexpensive African food housed in a shack or hut, is typi- options isn’t that difficult. In the cheapest places, you may have to stick to
cally found in markets, bus stations, and around industrial areas or any part of the mielies and greens. A step above that would be eggs and chips (which
town with low rent and a good passing trade. Chowing down at one of these may be fried in animal fat) with whatever vegetables may be available. Those
places can be a good way to meet locals. Meals at food stalls are served in a who eat fish should have even more luck, but note that many places will even
bowl, and while some locals prefer to eat with their hands, spoons are normally serve chicken as a vegetarian dish, on the notion that it’s not really meat.
available. You may eat standing up, or at a simple table with chairs. Nearly all midrange and upmarket restaurants offer some sort of genuine
A grade above the food stalls are the takeaways and cheap restaurants in vegetarian dish, even if it’s just a vegetable omelette or pasta and sauce. In
cities, large towns, and areas frequented by tourists. These tend to be slightly larger cities and towns, a growing number of places specialise in light vegetar-
larger and cleaner and have better facilities. ian cuisine – especially at lunchtime – and of course, Lebanese, Indian and
Italian restaurants usually offer interesting meat-free choices.
FOOD ETIQUETTE
Most travellers will have the opportunity to share an African meal sometime during their stay and
will normally be given royal treatment and a seat of honour. Although concessions are sometimes
made for foreigners, table manners are probably different from what you’re accustomed to. The
African staple, maize or sorghum meal, is the centre of nearly every meal. It is normally taken
with the right hand from a communal pot, rolled into balls, dipped in some sort of sauce or
relish – meat, beans or vegetables – and eaten. As in most societies, it is considered impolite to
scoff food, or to hoard it or be stingy with it. If you do, your host may feel that he or she hasn’t
provided enough. Similarly, if you can’t finish your food, don’t worry; the host will be pleased that
you have been satisfied. Often, containers of water or home-brew beer may be passed around
from person to person. However, it is not customary to share coffee, tea or bottled soft drinks.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
52 lonelyplanet.com MUSIC IN SOUTHERN AFRICA •• A Potted History 53

Music in
style similar to that heard in Tanzania and Zambia, while musicians in the
heart of country played a style like that of Zimbabwe. The music of southern
Mozambique was altered by the influx of workers returning from the South

Southern Africa
African mines (revolutionary lyrics were delivered over regional melodies),
just as the workers who migrate from Lesotho to the mines and cities of
Jane Cornwell neighbouring South Africa have developed a rich genre of sung oral poetry –
or word music – that focuses on the experiences of migrant life. African folk
Long before there were borders, there was music. Thousands of years ago,
right across the handful of countries we now loosely term Southern Africa,
a host of cultures were singing, dancing and creating rhythms to accompany INTERVIEW WITH THOMAS MAPFUMO
their lives. And arguably it is music, more than any other aspect of culture, The Lion of Zimbabwe isn’t exactly roaring, but he’s pretty furious. Over 25 years of misrule by
that has best survived the onslaught of Western influences. Not always Robert Mugabe’s government has seen his country’s economy collapse. Crime, unemployment
untarnished, though: while some traditions persist, others have merged, and food prices are soaring; corruption and censorship are rife. Human rights abuses abound.
Rage (www.rage.co.za)
shape-shifted, formed new genres. South Africa alone has the greatest range ‘These are not good circumstances,’ says Thomas Mapfumo, who left Harare for the USA after the
is an online South
of musical styles on the African continent, helped along by its gargantuan April 2000 elections, when his life was threatened. What makes things worse for the Zimbabwean
African magazine with
recording industry. Some of these styles have spilled over into neighbouring musician is that this is a government he helped to bring about.
black urban music news,
countries, all of which have styles of their own. The politicisation of TM, as he is known, began in the mid-1970s in what was then Rhodesia.
reviews and fashion.
Music still marks the important stages of a Southern African person’s life. With the traditions and customs of his country subjugated by the ruling white minority, he
It still enlightens, heals, invokes spirits. It still makes people dance, sing, hol- began his career playing covers of American hits. But as the country lurched towards civil war,
ler. It does all this whatever the instrument – whose form can change accord- Mapfumo adopted a more revolutionary stance. He was banned from the airwaves. Decades
ing to ethnicity, geography, gender of the player and, sometimes, whatever later, his latest album, Rise Up (Real World Records), has been similarly censored, though it pulses
Namibia’s recording objects are lying around. Expressing oneself through music isn’t always easy: from Harare’s short-wave underground outfits. Its songs exhort the poor of Zimbabwe to fight
industry is virtually non- think long-suffering, government-censored Zimbabwe. Or Namibia, whose for their rights. To, indeed, rise up.
existent – you’ll often see music industry lacks distribution networks, major record labels, direction. As a boy from the countryside Mapfumo had learned Shona music from his grandparents,
artists selling their own Or Mozambique, where most artists don’t receive royalties, and promoters members – like 70% of the population – of an old culture with its own language and traditions.
CDs on street corners. frequently don’t pay. Regardless, music still pulses in Southern Africa like a The Shona’s signature instrument was the mbira, an instrument with a sound known to invite
heartbeat. So remember: just because you can’t buy it – or even see or hear ancestor spirits to possess the living during religious ceremonies. Mapfumo began to arrange
it – doesn’t mean that it isn’t there. its splattering rhythms for the guitars of his band, Blacks Unlimited. Their Shona-language lyrics
sustained guerrilla fighters in the bush.
The Drumcafé’s Traditional A POTTED HISTORY ‘We were an oppressed people in our own land,’ he says. ‘When civil war came I found a
Music of Black South It’s better, initially, to think ethnicity rather than country. Southern Africa focus.’ He called the music chimurenga, which is Shona for ‘struggle’. The white population were
Africa (2005), by Laurie is one of the world’s oldest inhabited regions, after all. So old, in fact, that unable to understand the Shona language, but there was no ignoring Mapfumo’s popularity in
Levine, is an exploration its earliest music can be traced back some 4000 years to the Stone Age, when the wake of his album, Hokoyo (Watch Out). The Ian Smith regime arrested Mapfumo, detaining
of the traditional music of groups of hunter-gatherer San played basic flutes and rattles and sang in their him without trial for 90 days.
black South Africa in cere- unique click language. Today’s San still sound wonderfully ethereal, their ‘They thought my music was encouraging youngsters to leave the country to train and come
monies and rituals. The singing, clapping trance dance the stuff of ritual, tourist haunts and left-field back fighting the government,’ says Mapfumo, who cites Malcolm X and Martin Luther King as
book includes samples of record labels. But it’s the glorious vocal polyphony of the Bantu-speaking inspirations. ‘I kept telling them it was just the traditional music of the people of Zimbabwe.
musical scores, a look at people – the Zulu, Xhosa and Sotho of the present day – that has come to There was no way I wasn’t going to sing it.’
some well-known artists characterise the region; this is the music that attracted Paul Simon before He remained prolific until Zimbabwean independence in 1980, releasing album after socially
and a handy CD. he recorded his seminal 1988 album Graceland. aware album and influencing other home-grown stars such as Oliver ‘Tuku’ Mtukudzi. With over
Long before the Christian missionaries and colonialists arrived in the 30 years of touring to his credit, his Blacks Unlimited pungwes – dance marathons featuring songs
19th century, there were kingdoms. In Zambia, each king had his own decrying AIDS, alcoholism and domestic violence – are the stuff of legend. He was unofficially
royal musician, just as each kingdom had its own music. Singing often bestowed with Zimbabwe’s national symbol, the lion, as an alias, and exile has only increased
accompanied instrumental music played on horns, percussion, drums and his ire.
the stringed babatone – the inspiration for the contemporary Zambian The year 2003 was the first time since 1962 that Mapfumo did not perform his traditional year-
style, kalindula. Elsewhere, herders used flutes and other instruments end shows in his homeland. Wisely, it seems: a bootleg release of a concert in England – featuring
to help control the movement of cattle. (Oh, and the first major style of ‘Masoja Nemapurisa’, a song that told of police brutality – had youths loyal to Mugabe’s Zanu-PF
South African popular music? None other than pennywhistle jive, later party destroying any copies they found. In 2005 Mapfumo opened the Live8 Africa concert in
known as kwela.) The Bantu of Namibia played gourds, horn trumpets Cornwall, England. ‘Down with dictatorships!’ he declared at the outset.
and marimbas, while the various ethnic groups of Malawi travelled widely, It took Mapfumo a while to admit that Mugabe’s government was failing to deliver. ‘We sup-
spreading musical influences from the Zulu of South Africa and the Islamic ported them when they were fighting in the bush. When they came to power they promised us
Yao people of Tanzania. many things, but the people are still suffering and the country is a mess. So what did we fight
Colonial rule altered everything. The folk forms of Mozambique, a former for?’ He sighs. ‘I see myself as a representative,’ he adds. ‘If anyone points a finger at me, they’re
Portuguese colony, bear hallmarks of the latter – though its main style, mar- pointing it at the people.’
rabenta, flourished after independence. Mozambican bands played a roots
 54 MUSIC IN SOUTHERN AFRICA •• Musical Instruments lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com MUSIC IN SOUTHERN AFRICA •• Musical Instruments 55

became popular in Zambia, as troubadours entertained exhausted miners. parts and quick bursts of singing in a sort of highly melodic musical round
In South Africa, Dutch farmers brought a European folk music that became called hocketting. The Tonga people of Zambia do a similar thing with the
Featuring music and
what is known today as boeremusiek. animal horns called nyele. Variations on musical themes abound. The people of
interviews by Abdullah
It’s no wonder, then, that the banjo, violin, concertina and electric guitar Sesfontein, Namibia play reed pipes made from papaya stems. Basotho herding
Ibrahim, Hugh Masekela
have all had a profound influence on Southern African music. Malawian boys fashion their lekolulo flutes from sticks, cords and reeds. Everywhere,
and Miriam Makeba
banjo-and-guitar duos were huge in the 1950s and ’60s, after which South too, there is men’s music and women’s music, just as there are men’s dances
among others, Lee
African kwela took over. The influence of guitar-based rumba from Zaire and women’s dances. In Lesotho men use their mouths to play the stringed
Hirsch’s documentary
(now the Congo) was felt right across the region (political upheaval saw setolo-tolo. Namibian women play the scraped mouth-resonated bow.
Amandla!! A Revolution
many Congolese musicians relocate to Southern Africa); its upstart cousin, There is a huge variety of drums (ngoma is the general term in the Bantu
in Four Part Harmony
soukous, has made its presence felt in everything from Zambian kalindula language). Stick-struck and hand-struck. Square, round and goblet-shaped.
(2002) explores the role
to Malawian kwasa kwasa. The gospel mega-genre has evolved from the Small cowhide-covered ones for Zulu children. Khetebu ‘bush-tom’ drums
of music in the fight
teachings of 19th-century Christian missionaries, which were customised beloved by the South African Tsonga. Namalwa ‘lion-drums’ of Zambia,
against apartheid. Made
accordingly. Reckon those chord sequences in South African songs are played by inserting a stick through the drum head and rubbing. High-pitched
over nine years, this is a
familiar? Blame the church. talking drums (which are more commonly found in West Africa), held tight
deeply affecting film.
Numerous musical styles have been born out of oppression, too. Ladysmith under the armpit and beaten with hook-shaped sticks; the Chewa people of
Black Mambazo’s ‘tiptoe’ isicathimiya music, with its high-kicking, soft- Zambia call theirs the vimbuza. Drum families – mother, father, son, played
Commissioned by the
stepping dance, has its origins in the all-male miners’ hostels in South Africa’s in sets of three – like the conical drums of the northeast of Namibia. Drums
watchdog organisation
Natal Province (now KwaZulu-Natal) in the 1930s, with workers at pains not to accompany reed ensembles, a cappella groups and, more often than not,
Freemuse, Shoot the
to wake their bosses. Kwela music, like most modern South African styles, came ankle-rattling dances.
Singer: Music Censorship
out of the townships; kwela, meaning ‘jump up’, was the instruction given to If drums are the region’s collective heartbeat, then the bow is its lonely
Today (ed Marie Korpe, Karoo Kitaar Blues
those about to be thrown into police vans during raids. Thomas Mapfumo’s soul. Southern Africa has several kinds of musical bow, many resembling
2004) is a fascinating (director Liza Key, 2003)
chimurenga is once again the music of resistance in Zimbabwe, even if – for the the Brazilian berimbau: braced, mouth and/or gourd-resonated bows. Large
book that surveys is a documentary about
majority of Zimbabwean musicians – outspokenness is just not the Zimbabwean hunting bows used as mouth bows. Two-stringed bows, played while simulta-
contemporary cases a group of talented but
way (see the boxed text, p53). Even the prolific Oliver ‘Tuku’ Mtukudzi (whose neously singing and resonating. Multiple bows with multiple strings. Mouth
of music censorship isolated ‘coloured’ farm
infectious dance pop, informed by the country’s jit-jive and tsava rhythms, is bows that use palm leaves instead of strings. String instruments abound: the
worldwide for the first workers from South
known simply as ‘Tuku music’) has never done more than express his ‘great lute (both strummed and bowed) is present is several forms. The Tswana of
time. It includes a series Africa’s desolate Karoo
disappointment’. (For more on Mtukudzi, see the boxed text, p701.) Botswana sing and strum the violin-like segaba (that’s one string attached
of essays on South Africa region. Having developed
In Malawi the deliberately controversial songs of reggae giant Lucius ‘The to a tin). The dances of the Nama of Namibia use flutes, drums and strings
and Zimbabwe. a unique musical style
Soldier’ Banda has spawned a slew of similarly antsy reggae outfits; there is to emulate animal sounds.
played on homemade
also a softer reggae led by Malawian Rastafarians and a sort of Afro-pop reg- The xylophone is also prevalent: the xylophone music of southern Malawi
instruments, they eventu-
gae courtesy of Kid Mkandawire. In post-apartheid South Africa, freedom of has influenced contemporary music in both East and Southern Africa. Mal-
ally tour South Africa to
expression is pretty much expected: rap, hip-hop and their indigenous sibling let instruments with wooden keys are the main instrument of the Lozi and
rapturous response.
kwaito are as socially concerned as they are un-PC, depending on who you’re Nkoya of western Zambia, who place slats of wood over a long platform
listening to. South African jazz remains some of the best in the world; the in- and gourds in descending size; up to four people play simultaneously. The
Zimbabwe’s first feature
ternational success of the likes of Thandiswa from Bongo Maffin and Afropop marimbas of South Africa feed into the mbaqanga (township jive) style. It’s
film, Jit (director Michael
outfit Freshlyground has new audiences in new countries taking notice. an entirely different sound from that of the mbila (plural timbila) as played
Raeburn, 1993), is an
The popular music of Southern Africa has created itself by mingling local by the Chopi people of coastal Mozambique, which features resonators made
endearing romantic com-
ideas and forms with those from outside the region. And while every country from gourds and a buzzing tone created via a sheet of plastic (formerly an
edy, lifted by its exotic
has its own distinctive and constantly evolving array of styles supported animal skin) over a hole in the ground. The master of timbila is the great
setting and irresistible
by local audiences, that doesn’t mean you won’t be in one place and hear Venancio Mbande, who rehearses with his large orchestra each Sunday
jit-jive soundtrack. Boy, Radio Chikuni (www
something from somewhere else. afternoon at his house in the Zavala district.
who has a pesky, beer- .chikuniradio.org) is
But perhaps no instrument is as distinctively Southern African as the
obsessed ancestral spirit,
decides to get girl –
MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS mbira, a hand-held instrument with small metal keys attached to an amplify- a community radio
station broadcasting from
As with most traditional African instruments, the membranophones, chor- ing wooden box or calabash; attached shells and/or bottle tops distort and
who happens to have a Zambia’s Chikuni Mission
dophones, aerophones and idiophones of Southern Africa (OK, it’s drums fuzz its sound. There are many traditions of so-called ‘thumb pianos’, each
gangster boyfriend. Fun, Station. Dedicated to
and string, wind and percussion instruments) tend to be found in rural with a different name according to size and origin – it’s the kankobela for
uplifting stuff. preserving Batonga music
areas. Local materials and found objects are often used to musical effect. the Tonga of Zambia. But it is Zimbabwe with which the mbira is generally
and culture.
In Namibia and Zimbabwe they tie dry cocoons together and strap them identified: central to the Shona’s marathon religious trance ceremonies
to dancers’ ankles and waists; in Swaziland and South Africa, ankles rattle known as bira, interlocking mbira patterns are considered both healing and
with dried fruit. Right across the region, everything from seeds, sticks and spiritual. Since independence the mbira has been adapted to modern styles,
stalks to horse hair, oryx horns and goat skins are being shaken and blown, such as the chimurenga guitars’ bands.
plucked and beaten. Some people in Namibia customise their drums by Oh, and then there’s the voice. Be they roaring Zulu choirs or clicking San,
carving human faces into them. four-part Nama harmonies or ululating Zambian churchgoers, the people of
The MaNyungwe people of northeastern Zimbabwe and northwestern Southern Africa really do sing up some glorious polyphonic storms. Keep
Mozambique play nyanga music on panpipes, using different interlocking an ear out.
 56 MUSIC IN SOUTHERN AFRICA •• Musical Styles lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com MUSIC IN SOUTHERN AFRICA •• Musical Styles 57

became a tool of social activism and, with lyrics in Shona, a secret means of
INTERVIEW WITH STELLA CHIWESHE communication. Banned by Zimbabwean state radio now as then, today’s
The majestic Stella Chiweshe has been performing with the mbira – the classic Zimbabwean chimurenga bubbles away underground, in stark contrast to the apolitical,
Held each July in
thumb piano – for over 40 years. She is the first Southern African female mbira player to gain good-time sungura guitar music (the current industry’s favoured genre)
Selebi-Phikwe, between
international recognition; her recordings capture the power and enchantment of this ancient instru- and bland Shona impersonations of hip-hop and ragga (a dance-oriented
Gaborone and Francis-
ment, traditionally revered as a medium of healing and of contact with ancestral spirits. Though style of reggae).
based in Germany, Chiweshe recorded her latest offering, double album Double Check (Piranha), in town, Botswana’s
Zimbabwe, though she was plagued by a range of distractions from petrol shortages to computer Gospel National Music Eisteddfod
showcases traditional
breakdowns. It features drums, guitars, marimbas – and the trancy, shimmering mbira sound. Gospel music is huge everywhere. In Malawi spiritual songs are sung in
dances and music from
‘I first heard mbira from an old man when I was eight years old,’ says Chiweshe, who was born church, at school assemblies and political functions, and during everyday
around the country,
in 1946 in Mujumhi, a village in Mhondoro, Zimbabwe. ‘The people were listening to the drums, tasks. Many of Zambia’s Christian churches boast US-style gospel synthesis-
courtesy of its schools,
whose rhythm stayed so loud inside me I thought people could hear it.’ She liked to accompany ers and guitars. The effects of popular influences on the realm of the church
colleges and choirs.
her grandfather on cattle-herding duty, insisting they go as far away as possible so she could can be heard in the music of top-sellers Zambian Acappella and the Glorious
sing loud and hard. Throughout her childhood – before independence and the success of the Hosanna Band. Traditional Botswanan music is present in their church sing-
Second Chimurenga (1972–80) – mbiras were kept hidden, because the colonial government and ing. Zimbabwe’s lucrative gospel market is dominated by Charles Charamba
the church had banned the instrument, fearing its power over the Shona. and his sungura-based songs (gospel singers in Zimbabwe are as big as the Dandemutande (www
Playing mbira was punished with prison and the ceremonies were secret: ‘They told us when biggest popular music stars). South Africa is the really commercial holy roller: .dandemutande.org) is a
we were children to run away from people who played those instruments and to run towards a mega-selling amalgam of European, American, Zulu and other African resource for people who
the mission to tell the priest that we had seen the people of Diabore (Satan’s people).’ Chiweshe, traditions, neatly divided into traditional and modern styles. Look out for love Zimbabwean music
the great-granddaughter of Munaka, a resistance fighter hanged by the British in days of the Rebecca Malope, Youth in Action and the Soweto Gospel Choir. and culture. Articles,
First Chimurenga (1896–97), was undeterred. She wasn’t prepared to be limited by her sex, either. mail order catalogue,
Her nonstop rhythm-making on any object she could find saw her creeping into ceremonies to Jazz discussion board,
watch. Only once did a man try to eject her: ‘I screamed so much that I filled the house and What Malawi calls ‘jazz’ began in the late 1960s when, inspired by South Af- resource guide.
they let me stay.’ rican kwela music, bands such as Chimvu Jazz featured semirural musicians
By the time Chiweshe was 17 her passion to play mbira was like ‘a ball of fire’ and over the on acoustic instruments – a tradition that continues today. In Botswana most
next decade, with the guidance of her uncle, she became a gifted maridzambira (mbira player), popular music tends to be labelled ‘jazz’; it is probably gumba-gumba (‘party-
playing at healing ceremonies, weddings, funerals, concerts and parties, and even releasing a party’) music – modernised Zulu and Tswana music mixed with traditional
single, Kasahwa, in 1975, which went gold. After independence in 1980 she was invited to join jazz – that comes closest to it. Zambia’s Zam-rock has its jazzy elements.
the National Dance Company, newly formed to familiarise the liberated Zimbabweans of the But if you’re after jazz that is structurally, harmonically and melodically
richness of their cultural heritage. They toured throughout Zimbabwe, Mozambique and then distinctive – and is, unequivocally, jazz – then head to South Africa. What
Australia, India, North Korea and Europe. Chiweshe returned on solo tours. was famously an expatriate music representing the suffering of a people is
Following the counsel of her spirit guide, she took the mbira to the denizens of Harare (‘I was now a thriving, progressive force. Arno Carstens, Moses Khumalo, Judith
told that I must introduce this music to the city people’) and to new generations in Zimbabwe Sephumo, Yenana and myriad others are at the vanguard.
and across the globe with her band, the Earthquake. So far she’s recorded 22 local singles and
seven international albums, been awarded an MA from Harare University, won two ZIMA Awards Kalindula
in 2005 and healed countless troubled souls. The urban dance style known as kalindula has its roots in the Bemba tradi-
tions of northern Zambia’s Luapula Province – where a stringed instrument
called the babatone swings like a double bass. Inspired (like many Southern
MUSICAL STYLES
A rich network of musical styles has developed in Southern Africa. And
Featuring big name UK
although those of South Africa are probably the best known, the entire re- TOP 10 SOUTHERN AFRICAN ALBUMS
and African live acts and
gion is humming with musical traditions, expressions and textures. In most
Rise Up (Real World), Thomas Mapfumo
DJs, the three-day Lake
countries there are polyphony, repetitive patterns and call-and-response
of Stars Malawi Music
singing. There are styles that reflect ethnic diversity and geography. Cities
Double Check (Piranha), Stella Chiweshe
Festival is held on the
are dominated by pop, rock, jazz and urban music, much of which combines
Best of Miriam Makeba and the Skylarks (BMG), Miriam Makeba
palm-fringed shores of
core African principles with Western influences. Electric guitars fuel genres
Soul Marrabenta (Riverboat), Mabula
Lake Malawi each Sep-
such as afroma in Malawi, jit-jive in South Africa, Zam-rock in Zambia. Local
tember. Attracts around
sounds keep migrating, metamorphosing. New genres keep forming. Follow-
Shaka Zulu (Warner), Ladysmith Black Mambazo
1500 punters; proceeds
ing is a by-no-means definitive roundup of what is being listened to.
Urban Zulu (Melt 2000), Busi Mhlongo
go to charity.

Indestructible Beat of Soweto Volume One (Earthworks), various artists
Chimurenga

Vana Va Ndota (Milan), Ghorwane
In Zimbabwe in the late 1970s the musician Thomas Mapfumo and the Blacks
Unlimited transferred traditional Shona mbira patterns to the electric guitar.
Zambia Roadside (Sharp Wood Productions), various artists
They sang songs of resistance against the white-controlled Rhodesian gov-
A Handful of Namibians (On the Corner), various artists
ernment using bright, harmonised vocals. Chimurenga, meaning ‘struggle’,
 © Lonely Planet Publications
58 M U S I C I N S O U T H E R N A F R I C A • • M u s i c a l S t y l e s lonelyplanet.com

African genres) by Congolese rumba, kalindula took hold in the mid-1970s

in the wake of the presidential decree that 95% of broadcast music should be
Zambian. Most kalindula bands broke up following the country’s economic
collapse in the 1990s. But with the likes of Brian Chilala fusing rock, reggae
and kalindula beats, and the popularity of Black Muntu’s ‘kalifunku’ sound,
kalindula seems to be enjoying a renaissance.

Kwaito
Celebrating peace,
Post 1994, kwaito (kway-to, meaning hot or angry) exploded onto South
social harmony and
Africa’s dance floors. A rowdy mix of bubblegum, hip-hop, R&B, ragga,
international solidarity,
mbaqanga, traditional, jazz, British and American house music – kwaito
Avante Mozambique! is
is nothing short of a lifestyle. Chanted or sung in township slang (usually
Maputo’s new two-week
over programmed beats), kwaito’s lyrics range from the anodyne to the
cultural tourism festival
fiercely political. Given an international lease of life as the soundtrack for
each August/September.
the feature film Tsotsi (which bagged the 2006 Oscar for Best Foreign Film,
Expect exhibitions,
and saw kwaito star Zola playing a gangster), kwaito is similarly huge across
seminars, films and, of
the Southern African region. It’s Lesotho’s favourite music style. If you’re
course, music.
in Namibia, look out for Paul Gazza. In Zambia, try gospel kwaito act the
Cherubs. If you’re in South Africa, take your pick.

Kwasa kwasa
Beginning in Zaire in the mid-1980s and spreading quickly to surrounding
areas, kwasa kwasa took its cue from Congolese rumba and soukous. Char-
acterised by an all-important lead guitar and lighter background drumming,
kwasa kwasa (from the French street slang, quoi ca? – what’s this?) songs typi-
cally let guitar and drums set the pace before the vocals enter, with an intricate
guitar solo somewhere in the middle. Arguments rage over whether kwasa
kwasa is actually just rumba; for others it’s simply a dance style. Everyone from
politicians to street vendors knows how to do the kwasa kwasa, booties wildly
gyrating – à la American hip-hop – while legs and torsos are kept still.

Marrabenta
Mozambique Music
Sounding a little like salsa or merengue, marrabenta is the best-known urban
Magazine (www
dance music in Mozambique, and one created from a fusion of imported
.mozambique-music
European music played on improvised materials: oil cans, wooden stakes
.com) is a Maputo-based
and fishing lines. Taking its name from the Portuguese word ‘to break’
site, offering news about
(hard-playing musos frequently snapped their guitar strings), marrabenta’s
local events and music
local-language songs of love and social criticism were banned by Portuguese
releases, Mozambican
colonialists – ensuring its popularity post-independence. Stalwart marrabenta
bands and music projects
band Ghorwane uses horns, guitars, percussion and strong vocal harmonies;
as well as info for visitors.
marrabenta-meets-hip-hop outfit Mabulu is making waves.

Rap & Hip-hop

The genre that was born in New York over three decades ago now has an-
other home in (or has come back to) Africa – with some fascinating hybrids
Yfm (www.yfm.co.za) as a result. In Namibia, artist Yellow fuses reggae, hip-hop and his roots in
is South Africa’s most the Nama culture. In Botswana, top-rating radio show Strictly Hip Hop,
popular youth station, with presenters/rappers Draztik and Slim (from Cashless Society Crew), is
with a 50% self-imposed transforming the local scene. Young Swaziland rap groups – and indeed,
local music quota – more rap groups across Southern Africa – are using the medium to educate listen-
than any other station in ers about AIDS. South Africa’s rappers are exploring uncharted territory:
the country. Tumi and the Volume combine kwaito, new school and house music and
put politics centre stage. Jo’burg outfit Kwani Experience mould rap with
African folk, jazz, drum ’n’ bass and funk. The beat is ‘somehow familiar yet
like nothing that you’ve heard in these times’, they say.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
59

Environment
Southern Africa’s environment is as fragile as elsewhere on the continent,
with exploitation and mismanagement the cause of many long-term prob-
lems. In order to ensure you have a minimal impact on this unique place,
please keep in mind every visitor’s shared responsibility (p26).
Earthlife Africa (www
THE LAND .earthlife.org.za) is an
active environmental
Southern Africa consists of a plateau rising from 1000m to 2000m, with
group operating in South
escarpments on either side. Below the escarpments lies a coastal plain, which
Africa and Namibia; it’s a
is narrowest in Namibia and widest in southern Mozambique.
good contact for anyone
The most prominent break in the Southern African plateau is the Great Rift
wanting to get involved.
Valley – a 6500km-long fissure where tectonic forces have attempted to rip
the continent of Africa in two. This enormous fault in the earth’s crust runs
from the Jordan Valley (between Israel and Jordan) in the north, southward
through the Red Sea, where it enters Ethiopia’s Danakil Depression. At this
point, it heads south across Kenya, Tanzania and Malawi, dividing in two at
one stage, to form the great lakes of East Africa. Lake Malawi is the third-
largest lake in Africa and lies in a trough formed by the valley. This feature
has created unique fish life. The lake has more fish species than any inland
body of water in the world – there are over 500, and 350 of these are endemic
to the lake (see the boxed text, p199). This spreading zone ends at the present
site of Lake Kariba (p703), between Zimbabwe and Zambia.
The highest part of the region is Lesotho (often called the Kingdom in the
Sky) and the neighbouring Drakensberg area, where many peaks rise above
3000m, including Thabana-Ntlenyana (p146; 3482m), which is the highest
point in Southern Africa. Other highland areas include the Nyika Plateau (in
northern Malawi and northeastern Zambia; p181), Mt Mulanje (in southern
Malawi; p219), the Eastern Highlands (between Zimbabwe and Mozambique;
p706) and the Khomas Hochland (Central Namibia; p323).
These highlands provide jaw-dropping scenery, as well as some of the
best-preserved and most distinctive plants, wildlife and ancient rock art (see
the boxed text, p38) in the region. Hiking, climbing and mountain-biking
are just some of the myriad activities on offer in these often wonderfully
preserved patches of African wilderness.
Lower and more isolated hills include the characteristic inselbergs of
Namibia (see Spitzkoppe, p347) and South Africa’s Karoo (p488), and the
lush Zomba Plateau (p210) in central Malawi.
Good safari companions:
WILDLIFE Field Guide to Mammals
of Southern Africa and A
Southern Africa contains some of the most accessible and varied wildlife
Field Guide to the Tracks
watching found anywhere on the continent, and it’s the major attraction
and Signs of Southern and
of the region. Countries all over the region provide opportunities, and each
East African Wildlife –
has its highlights (even smaller countries such as Swaziland have magnifi-
both by Chris & Tilde
cent wildlife viewing, which can offer great alternatives to better-known
Stuart – and The Safari
parks), but for sheer variety and numbers, South Africa and Botswana
Companion: A Guide to
top the list.
Watching African Mam-
The best times of day for wildlife viewing are early in the morning and in
mals by Richard Estes.
the late afternoon/evening, when many animals are looking for their next
meal. Planting yourself at a water hole at these times can be very rewarding.
Night safaris provide wonderful wildlife-viewing opportunities, especially
to see many nocturnal animals such as genets and bushbabies (look in the
trees, not just on the ground).
 60 E N V I R O N M E N T • • W i l d l i fe lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com E N V I R O N M E N T • • W i l d l i fe 61

Happily, Southern African parks are some of the best managed in Africa, has over half of all bird species identified in Southern Africa; on Inhaca Island
and the development of the massive transfrontier parks (see the boxed text, (p255) alone, about 300 bird species have been recorded.
p67) in the region, which link national parks and wildlife migration routes Highlights in the region include the world’s largest bird (the ostrich) and
in different countries, should open up even more opportunities for wildlife its heaviest flying bird (Kori bustard). Also in abundance are weavers, which
viewing. share their huge city-like nests (often attached to telephone poles) with pygmy
falcons, the world’s smallest raptors. Also keep an eye out for majestic birds
Animals of prey such as the fish eagle, bateleur eagle, martial eagle, red-necked falcon
Nowhere else on the planet is there such a variety and quantity of large mam-
mal species. Southern Africa boasts the world’s largest land mammal (the
African elephant), as well as the second largest (white rhino) and the third CLOSE ENCOUNTERS OF THE WILD KIND
largest (hippopotamus). It’s also home to the tallest (giraffe), fastest (cheetah) Although you’ll hear plenty of horror stories, the threat of attack by wild animals in Africa is
and smallest (pygmy shrew). You stand a great chance of seeing the Big Five – largely exaggerated and problems are extremely rare. However, it is important to remember that
the black rhino, Cape buffalo, elephant, leopard and lion. However, the region most African animals are wild and that wherever you go on safari, particularly on foot, there is
Rhinos aren’t named for
also supports a wonderful array of birds, reptiles, amphibians and even insects always an element of danger.
their colour, but for their
(but often in less-appreciated quantities). The longer you spend in Southern The tips below will further diminish your chances of a close encounter of the unpleasant kind,
lip shape: ‘white’ comes
Africa the more you’ll appreciate the subtleties of the region, including the and on organised safaris you should always get advice from your guide.
from wijde (wide) – the
delight of spotting some of the less-famous species. If you’re up for a challenge
Buffaloes are usually docile in a herd, but lone individuals can be unpredictable, making them
Boers’ term for the fatter-
there’s also a lesser-known ‘Little Five’ – the rhinoceros beetle, buffalo weaver, particularly dangerous. If you encounter a buffalo while walking in the bush, back away quietly
lipped white rhino.
elephant shrew, leopard tortoise and ant lion. See the colour Wildlife Guide and slowly. If it charges, climb the nearest tree or dive into the bush and ‘run like a rat’.
(p69) for a glimpse of the region’s spectacular wildlife.

Elephants are not bloodthirsty creatures, but those who have had trouble from humans
ENDANGERED SPECIES previously may feel the need to go on the offensive. Lone males can be skittish, and a herd of
After years of poaching, the black rhino is the highest-profile entry on females with baby elephants will almost always be protective and wary of an approach. Keep
Southern Africa’s endangered species list (good places to spot these include your distance – if an elephant holds its trunk erect and sniffs the air, it probably detects your
Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park in South Africa, p512; Etosha National Park in presence and may charge rather than retreat. In this case you should be the one who retreats –
Namibia, p332; and Mkhaya Game Reserve in Swaziland, p612); and the but move away slowly.
recent lifting of a hunting ban on this rare species seems ludicrous. See
Hippos aren’t normally vicious, but they may attack if you get too close or come between
p68 for more on this issue. The beautiful African wild dog (seen with luck them and the water, or between adults and young. It’s true that hippos kill more humans in
in Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park, p512, and Kruger National Park, p528), with Africa than any other animal. When boating or canoeing, paddle well away from them, and
The Johannesburg-based
its matriarchal system, is also listed as endangered, as are the mountain never pitch a tent in an open area along vegetated riverbanks, as it’s probably a hippo run.
Endangered Wildlife Trust
and Cape mountain zebra. The riverine rabbit is one of Southern Africa’s
Crocodiles also present risks, and when they’re snoozing in the sun, they look more like logs
(www.ewt.org.za) is a
most endangered mammals, while the hippopotamus and African lion are or branches. Never swim, paddle or even collect water without first making a careful assess-
good source of informa-
considered vulnerable in the wider region. ment of what’s occupying the water in question. Local advice is best but, if it’s not available,
tion on South Africa’s
Turtles don’t fair well, with the loggerhead, green turtle and olive ridley assume the worst.
endangered species with
listed as endangered, while hawsksbill and leatherback turtles are critically
links to broader Southern
Hyenas are potentially dangerous, although they’re normally just after your food. They aren’t
endangered.
African conservation particularly fussy either: they’ll eat boots and equipment left outside a tent, and have been
projects. known to gnaw right through vehicle tyres!
BIRDS
Birds rate highly among the many attractions of Southern Africa. For sheer
Lions have also been known to investigate lodges and camp sites. If you’re camping out in the
abundance and variety, few parts of the world offer as much for the bird- bush, zip your tent up completely. If you hear a large animal outside, lie still and don’t try to
watcher, whether expert or beginner. Southern Africa is host to nearly 10% of leave your tent. While walking in the bush, if you encounter a lion try to avoid an adrenalin
Ian Sinclair’s Field Guide
the world’s bird species – over 900 species have been recorded in the region. rush (easier said than done), and don’t turn and run. If you act like prey, the lion could respond
to the Birds of Southern
More than 130 are endemic to Southern Africa or are near-endemic, also accordingly.
Africa by Ian Sinclair is
being found only in adjoining territories to the north.
a comprehensive work
Rhinos tend to be wary of humans, although they may charge vehicles that get too close.
This astonishing variety can be attributed to the number of habitats. These Remember, too, that black rhinos are far more aggressive than white rhinos – unsurprising, as
with colour plates of
habitats are well defined and can be separated into eight main categories: for- they were hunted almost to extinction. If you are caught out on foot and can’t immediately
all avian species in the
est; savanna-woodland; fynbos; grassland-semidesert; Karoo (South Africa’s climb a tree, face the charge and step to one side at the last moment in bullfight style (again,
region. An abridged
desert-like interior); the Namib Desert; freshwater areas (rivers, marshes,
version, Illustrated Guide easier said than done).
lakes, pans and their adjoining shores); and seashore areas (including areas of
to the Birds of Southern
Most importantly, don’t let the above scare you! Wildlife viewing just requires a bit of common
brackish water where fresh water meets salt water in lagoons and estuaries).
Africa, concentrates on sense, and by following a few simple guidelines you’re sure to have a trouble-free experience.
All the national parks and reserves are home to a great range of bird life,
commonly observed Remember that viewing wildlife in their natural habitat may present dangers not associated
especially Mana Pools (p705), Victoria Falls (p618) and Hwange (p723)
species. with a zoo, but it’s a large part of what makes a visit to Southern Africa so special, and is
National Parks in Zimbabwe; Etosha (p332), Mudumu (p345) and Mamili
(p345) National Parks in Namibia; and Chobe National Park (p101) and incomparable to seeing an animal in a cage.
virtually any part of the Okavango Delta (p106) in Botswana. Mozambique
62 E N V I R O N M E N T • • W i l d l i fe lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com E N V I R O N M E N T • • W i l d l i fe 63

and chanting goshawk, as well as secretary birds, rollers, vividly coloured 5m in length. The puff adder, which inhabits mainly mountain and desert areas,
bee-eaters, sunbirds and rainbow-flecked kingfishers. grows to about 1m long. Like all reptiles it enjoys sunning itself, but it is very slow
Bird-watching is good all year round, with spring (August to November) and sometimes trodden on by unwary hikers – with very unpleasant results.
and summer the best. Other seriously dangerous snakes include the fat and lazy gaboon viper;
For information on
the black mamba; the boomslang, which lives in trees; the spitting cobra,
campaigns to save
REPTILES which needs no introduction; and the zebra snake, which is one of the world’s
elephants and the fight
Southern Africa’s most notable reptile is the Nile crocodile. Once abundant most aggressive serpentine sorts. If you’re tramping in snake country, be
against the illegal inter-
in lakes and rivers across the region, its numbers have been greatly reduced sure to watch your step.
national trade in wildlife,
by hunting and habitat destruction. Female crocs lay up to 80 eggs at a time, Lizards are ubiquitous from the hot and dusty Kaokoveld in Namibia to
see the International
depositing them in sandy areas above the high-water line. After three months’ the cool highlands of the Nyika Plateau in Malawi, and from the bathroom
Fund for Animal Welfare
incubation in the hot sand, the young emerge. New crocs are avocado green in ceiling to the kitchen sink. The largest of these is the water monitor, a docile
(www.ifaw.org).
colour; as they age, they darken to nearly black. Many live up to 70 years. creature that reaches over 2m in length and is often seen lying around water
Southern Africa has a complement of both venomous and harmless snakes, holes, perhaps dreaming of being a crocodile. Two others frequently seen
but most fear humans and you’ll be lucky to even see one. The largest snake – are chameleons and geckos – the latter often in hotel rooms; they are quite
although generally harmless to humans – is the python, which grows to over harmless and help to control the bug population.

IVORY & ELEPHANT CULLING CONTROVERSY

A major issue all over Southern Africa concerns the emotive issue of elephant conservation. culling to return the population to around a manageable 7000 (down from the current 12,500).
In the West people generally hold a preservationist viewpoint, that elephant herds should be This has caused an outcry from some conservation groups such as the International Fund for
conserved for their own sake or for aesthetic reasons; however, the local sentiment maintains Animal Welfare (IFAW), as culling has been banned for 10 years in South African parks. In early
that the elephant must justify its existence on long-term economic grounds for the benefit of 2006 the South African government decided to postpone a decision regarding a cull, but it
local people, or for the country as a whole (a conservationist view). In fact, the same arguments wasn’t known for how long.
can be applied to most other wildlife. This is an issue sure to generate much debate, with proponents citing the health of the parks,
Since the 1970s various factors (especially the value of ivory) led to an increase in elephant including other wildlife and the elephants themselves, and organisations such as IFAW appalled
poaching in many parts of Africa. By the late 1980s the price of 1kg of ivory (US$300) was three at such a solution, which they claim is cruel, unethical and scientifically unsound. IFAW believes
times the annual income of over 60% of Africa’s population. Naturally, the temptation to poach aerial surveys of elephant numbers are inaccurate, that population growth has not been accurately
was great, although the real money was made not by poachers – often villagers who were paid surveyed and, further, that other solutions have not been looked at carefully enough, including
a pittance for the valuable tusks – but by the dealers, who acted with the full knowledge (and more transfrontier parks crossing national borders.
support) of senior government figures. The number of elephants in Africa went from 1.3 million Southern African countries such as South Africa and Botswana currently have large ivory stock-
to 625,000 between 1979 and 1989, and in East Africa and in some Southern African countries – piles due to natural attrition and through the seizure of illegal ivory hauls. Culling obviously
notably in Zambia – elephant populations were reduced by up to 90% in about 15 years. But in provides large quantities of legal ivory too. In the past this could have been sold to raise funds
other Southern African countries where parks and reserves are well managed, in particular South for elephant management; however, the CITES ban stopped that.
Africa, Botswana and Namibia, elephant populations were relatively unaffected. In March 1999, however, Botswana, Namibia, South Africa and Zimbabwe were permitted by
In 1989, in response to the illegal trade and diminishing numbers of elephants, a world body CITES to resume strictly controlled ivory exports. Despite these measures, opponents of the trade
called the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES) internationally banned warned that elephant poaching would increase in other parts of Africa, as poached ivory could
the import and export of ivory. It also increased funding for antipoaching measures. When the now be laundered through the legal trade. Sure enough, 1999 saw an increase in poaching all
ban was established, world raw ivory prices plummeted by 90%, and the market for poaching over Africa, from Kenya to Gabon, and in late 1999 a Zimbabwean newspaper reported that 84
and smuggling was radically reduced. elephants had been poached in Zimbabwe that year.
Although elephant populations recovered in some ravaged areas, Southern African human At the 2002 CITES conference Botswana, Namibia, South Africa, Zambia, and Zimbabwe re-
populations continued to grow, and another problem surfaced. Elephants eat huge quantities of quested limited sales of their existing ivory stockpiles. Botswana, Namibia and South Africa had
foliage but, in the past, herds would eat their fill then migrate to another area, allowing time for only a one-off sale of 60 tonnes of ivory approved in principle, once certain conditions were met.
the vegetation to regenerate. However, an increasing human population pressed the elephants However, this plan was put on ice by CITES in 2004 as the conditions set down in 2002 had not
into smaller and smaller areas – mostly around national parks – and the herds were forced to been met; particularly concerning was a solution on how to conduct sales without triggering
eat everything available. In many places, the bush began to look as if an atom bomb had hit. poaching in vulnerable countries. Poaching is still a problem in Malawi for example – it was
This also leads to human/elephant conflict: in far-north Mozambique, for example, elephants are hurting the elephant population so badly in Kasungu National Park that the British military was
eating and destroying crops, while drought in Zimbabwe has led to conflict between humans called in 2005 to train game rangers in anti-poaching strategies.
and elephants for water resources. There is much dispute about whether controlled ivory sales should be reintroduced, with
Increasingly across the region, park authorities are facing elephant overpopulation. Botswana, Southern African countries with excessive elephant populations and large ivory stockpiles push-
parts of Namibia’s Caprivi region, Zimbabwe and South Africa’s Kruger National Park are particularly ing hard for a relaxation of the ban. Some argue that Southern Africa is paying for the inability
affected. Proposed solutions include relocation (whereby herds are permanently transplanted to of other African countries to manage and protect their wildlife, and that the ban on the ivory
other areas) and contraception. The only other alternative is to cull herds, sometimes in large trade is an unfair punishment to these countries.
numbers; this seems a bizarre paradox, but illustrates the seriousness of the problem. The issue is It remains to be seen whether the ban will be lifted, but meanwhile debate about the ivory
currently being debated in South Africa. In Kruger, park authorities have recommended elephant trade, and the culling solution to overpopulation, rages on.
 64 E N V I R O N M E N T • • N a t i o n a l Pa r k s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com ENVIRONMENT •• Environmental Issues 65

Plants The beauty of the parks and reserves is that they all have an individual
The following rundown of major vegetation zones (arranged roughly south identity – a unique character born from the varied landscapes, wildlife
to north, and from the coasts to the inland areas) is greatly simplified, but and vistas. Happily, this means you can spend a lot of time visiting parks
provides a useful overview. and never get bored!
Southern Africa’s distinctive fynbos zone occurs around the Cape Penin- Most parks in Southern Africa conserve habitats and wildlife species and
sula and along the south coast of South Africa, interspersed with pockets of provide recreational facilities for visitors. South African parks are among
Trees of Southern Africa
temperate forest, where you’ll find trees such as the large yellowwood, with the best managed in the world, and most of the rest are very good, although
by Keith Coates Palgrave
its characteristic ‘peeling’ bark. Zimbabwean parks have declined and those in Mozambique are still being
provides the most
The west coast of Southern Africa consists largely of desert, which receives developed.
thorough coverage of the
less than 100mm of precipitation per year. Vegetation consists of tough In most parks and reserves harbouring large (and potentially dangerous)
subcontinent’s arboreal
grasses, shrubs and euphorbias, plus local specialities, including the bizarre animals, visitors must travel in vehicles or on an organised safari, but several
richness, illustrated
welwitschia (a miniature conifer) and kokerboom (a type of aloe). do allow hiking or walking with a ranger or safari guide.
with colour photos and
Along the east coast of Southern Africa, the natural vegetation is coastal Nearly all parks charge an entrance fee, and in almost all cases foreign-
paintings.
bush, a mixture of light woodland and dune forest; high rainfall has also ers pay substantially more than local residents or citizens. This may rankle
created pockets of subtropical forest. some visitors – and some parks are seriously overpriced – but the idea is that
In South Africa’s Karoo, typical vegetation includes grasses, bushes and residents and citizens pay taxes to the governments that support the parks,
succulents that bloom colourfully after the rains. Much original Karoo veg- and therefore are entitled to discounts.
etation has been destroyed since the introduction of grazing animals and
alien plants (see below). Park Accommodation
To the east lie the temperate grasslands of the ‘highveld’ and to the north, a Most parks and reserves contain accommodation, so you can stay overnight
vast arid savanna, characterised by acacia scrub, which takes in most of cen- and take wildlife drives in the early morning and evening. Accommodation
See www.peaceparks.org
tral Namibia, much of Botswana and the northern parts of South Africa. ranges from simple camp sites to luxury lodges run by companies that have
for all the latest news on
To the north and east is the woodland savanna, consisting of mainly concessions inside the parks. Prices vary to match the quality of facilities.
the transfrontier parks
broadleaf deciduous trees. Dry woodland, dominated by mopane trees, In some countries you can just turn up and find a place to camp or stay; in
in the region, includ-
covers northern Namibia, northern Botswana, the Zimbabwean lowveld other countries reservations are advised (or are essential at busy times). For
ing a map of the Great
and the Zambezi Valley. In wetter areas – central Zimbabwe, northern details, see individual country chapters.
Flowers of Southern Africa Limpopo Transfrontier
Mozambique and most of Zambia and Malawi – the dominant vegetation is
by Auriol Batten is less a
field guide than a large-
moist woodland, or miombo. A mix of the two, which occurs in northeast- ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES Park.
ern South Africa and central Mozambique, is known as mixed woodland, All over Southern Africa, an ever-growing human population places demands
format celebration of
or ‘bushveld’. on the land and other natural resources. To conserve these resources – and
major flowering species,
Small pockets of high ground all over the region have a vegetation zone the region’s wild areas and ecosystems – most experts agree that population
illustrated with colourful
termed afro-montane, which occurs in highland areas where open grasslands growth must be contained by improving education (especially for women)
paintings.
are interspersed with heathland and isolated forests. and raising living standards by fostering economic growth. Human–elephant
conflict, for example, is becoming a problem in areas such as Mozambique
INTRODUCED SPECIES (p245), where elephants eat and destroy crops in large areas of Niassa
Introduced plant species present a real threat to Southern African ecosystems. province, as well as in coastal sections of Quirimbas National Park and
There are more than 700 alien plant species in the region, and about 10% of elsewhere in the north.
these are classed as invasive aliens – that is, they thrive to the detriment of Land degradation is a serious regional problem; about one quarter of South
endemic species. For example, Australian wattle trees and Mexico mesquite Africa’s land is considered to be severely degraded (see p413). In former
flourish by sinking their roots deeper into the soil than indigenous trees, the Homeland areas, years of overgrazing and overcropping have resulted in
The Southern African
latter suffering from lack of nourishment. The Australian hakea shrub was massive soil depletion. This, plus poor overall conditions, is pushing people
regional office of the
introduced to serve as a hedge, and is now rampant, displacing native trees to the cities, further increasing urban pressures. Lesotho has severe land
International Conser-
and killing off smaller plants. Areas such as South Africa’s unique Cape erosion (see p140) due to large-scale ploughing and introduced merino
vation Union (www
fynbos floral kingdom are threatened by Australian acacias, which were sheep and mohair goats.
.iucnrosa.org.zw) has
introduced for their timber products, or to stabilise sand dunes. Water is another issue and droughts are common in the region (see
plenty of detail on
Many rivers and dams are also clogged with invasive species and intro- the boxed text, p43). To meet demand rivers have often been dammed or
projects involving wet-
duced European grasses, especially on sand dunes, are also a threat. Recog- modified. While this has improved water supplies to some areas, it has also
lands, forests, biodiversity
nition of these problems means that alien plants, originally introduced as disrupted local ecosystems and caused increased silting.
and plenty more.
commercial plants or as ornamental garden plants, may often not be grown Deforestation wreaks havoc across Southern Africa, especially when indig-
on public or private property. enous trees are replaced by more aggressive introduced species. In Malawi
(p166) the level of use of wood for fuel is very high and because of food insecu-
NATIONAL PARKS rity, people increasingly rely on woodlands to serve their needs. Illegal timber
The term ‘national park’ is often used in Southern Africa as a catch-all term practices are more difficult to combat, with entrenched interests at every level.
to include wildlife reserves, forest parks, or any government conservation An illustration of the challenges is seen in northern and central Mozambique,
area; there are also several privately owned reserves. where tropical hardwoods are felled with little or no regulation.
66 E N V I R O N M E N T • • N a t i o n a l Pa r k s i n S o u t h e r n A f r i c a lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com E N V I R O N M E N T • • N a t i o n a l Pa r k s i n S o u t h e r n A f r i c a 67

NATIONAL PARKS IN SOUTHERN AFRICA

Southern Africa’s national parks are simply outstanding. Facilities, geography and wildlife-viewing
Tsitsikamma (p466) – a lovely coastal park with forests, fynbos, beaches, rocky headlands and
opportunities vary considerably across the region though. World-famous national parks such as a world-renowned hiking trail.
Kruger, Etosha, South Luangwa and Chobe offer excellent wildlife viewing, usually with a dazzling
Hluhluwe-Imfolozi (p512) – near the Zulu heartland, this bushland park is best known for its
array of accommodation options, while lesser-known parks and reserves such as Hlane Royal rhino populations.
National Park (p611) or Mkhaya Game Reserve (p612) in Swaziland are real gems. The latter are
Kruger (p528) – South Africa’s most popular national park covers an enormous area and offers
usually smaller and often quieter than their more famous counterparts, with rewarding wildlife- the classic wildlife experience, while boasting top-notch facilities.
viewing and bird-watching opportunities. Below is a sample of the parks in the region:

Pilanesberg (p569) – protects an unusual complex of extinct volcanoes with towering rocky
Botswana outcrops and an impressive variety and number of wildlife, including wild dogs.

Makgadikgadi & Nxai Pans (p100) – vast and remote, this is the site of Southern Africa’s last Zambia
great wildlife migrations.

Kafue (p666) – massive and genuinely wild, with an impressive range of habitats and wildlife.

Chobe (p101) – a large and varied park with both a wildlife-rich riverfront and broad savanna
plains. It’s particularly known for its large elephant herds.
Kasanka (p651) – pioneering, privately managed park, noted for sightings of the rare
sitatunga antelope.

Moremi (p114) – this beautiful park takes in a portion of the expansive and stunning
Okavango Delta.
Lower Zambezi (p655) – spectacular setting, escarpments and plains, plus the great river
itself. It’s best appreciated on multiday canoe trips.

Central Kalahari (p119) – Botswana’s largest national park takes in the widest horizons you’re
ever likely to see.
South Luangwa (p658) – this wild and pristine wildlife park is growing more popular, but
many still consider it ‘Africa’s best-kept secret’.
Malawi
Mosi-oa-Tunya (p625) – taking in both Zambia’s portion of Victoria Falls and a small game

Liwonde (p206) – a magical lowland park with wonderful bird life, including a stunning park, this park is one of the country’s most visited attractions.
rainbow-flecked kingfisher population, excellent elephant and hippo viewing, and plans to
reintroduce lions and rhinos. Zimbabwe

Mt Mulanje (p219) – the ‘island in the sky’, with sheer peaks and excellent hiking.
Matusadona (p705) – with both lakefront and mountain habitats south of Lake Kariba, this
rewarding wildlife park is known for its enormous buffalo herds and lion populations.

Nyika (p181) – unique montane grassland area, with endless views and splendid horse riding.

Nyanga (p710), Bvumba (p708), Chimanimani (p714) – these three parks in the misty Eastern

Lengwe (p224) – this lovely park in southern Malawi protects a range of antelopes (including Highlands offer mountain retreats and excellent hiking opportunities.
the rare nyala), as well as diverse bird species.

Hwange (p723) – Zimbabwe’s best-known wildlife park holds one of the most dense wildlife
Mozambique populations in Africa. It’s conveniently close to Victoria Falls.

Bazaruto Archipelago (p267) – a tropical paradise of reefs, islands and beaches, and
Mana Pools (p705) – combines the Zambezi Escarpment, a swathe of bushland and beautiful
opportunities for sailing and diving. riverine scenery to create a varied wildlife experience. Canoe safaris are popular.

Great Limpopo Transfrontier – the former Limpopo National Park (p260) has been combined Transfrontier Peace Parks
with South Africa’s Kruger (p528) and Zimbabwe’s Gonarezhou (p717) parks to form this In addition to national parks there are several transfrontier parks at various stages of completion.
enormous conservation area. Mozambique’s portion was devastated by war, but has now been These mammoth ventures cross national borders and are flagship conservation ventures designed
stocked with wildlife from elsewhere. to re-establish age-old migration routes. They include the following:
Namibia
Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park (p462) – combines Northern Cape’s old Kalahari Gemsbok National

Waterberg Plateau Park (p328) – this sky island features walking tracks and a repository for Park with Botswana’s Gemsbok National Park
endangered wildlife.
Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park – this spreads nearly 100,000 sq km (larger than Portugal)

Fish River Canyon (p385) – Africa’s grand canyon presents one of the most spectacular scenes across the borders of South Africa (Kruger; p528), Mozambique (former Limpopo National
on the continent and Namibia’s most popular hiking track. Park; p260) and Zimbabwe (Gonarezhou; p717)

Etosha (p332) – this vast park is one of Africa’s most renowned wildlife-viewing venues – and
Ai-Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park – incorporates the spectacular desert mountain scenery
deservedly so. It features an enormous pan and numerous water holes, and is one of the best of Ai-Ais Hot Springs Game Park (p385) in Namibia and the Richtersveld National Park (see the
places in the region to see black rhinos. boxed text, p465) in South Africa

Namib-Naukluft (p367) – one of the world’s largest national parks, this stunning and magical
Limpopo/Shashe Transfrontier Conservation Area – a proposed conservation area straddling
desert wilderness takes in world-famous sand dunes and wild desert mountains, with excel- the borders of South Africa, Botswana and Zimbabwe
lent hiking.
Maloti/Drakensberg Transfrontier Project – a project (with a completion date of 2007) to
South Africa protect the natural and cultural heritage of the Maloti-Drakensberg Mountains

Drakensberg (p516) – this mountain region may be low on the Big Five, but it’s high on Malawi and Zambia have agreed to set up the first transfrontier park outside South Africa. The
awe-inspiring mountain scenery, rock art and extensive hiking opportunities. proposed area combines the Nyika Plateau on both sides of the border, Malawi‘s Vwaza Marsh

St Lucia (p513) – this coastal wetland in a remote part of the country presents a unique Wildlife Reserve and Kasungu National Park, with Zambian forest reserves, Musalangu Game
ecosystem of global significance. Management Area and Lukusuzi National Park.
© Lonely Planet Publications
68 E N V I R O N M E N T • • E n v i r o n m e n t a l I s s u e s lonelyplanet.com

HUNTING – ANIMAL WELFARE VS ECONOMICS

In some parts of Southern Africa, areas of land are set aside for hunting, and hunters are
charged ‘trophy fees’ to shoot animals. This is abhorrent to many people – especially in Western
countries.
On the one hand it is argued that trophy or sport hunting is a form of tourism that stimulates
local economies and thereby fosters ‘conservation-minded’ attitudes. For people who lack other
resources the trophy fees are large (thousands of US dollars for animals such as elephants or
lions) and an invaluable source of income. Paradoxically, the financial benefits of hunting tourism
encourages the management and protection of these animals and their environment. Hunting, it
is argued, provides an enticement to landowners to maintain the natural habitats that provide
a home for the hunted animals.
On the other hand, killing an animal for fun is simply morally and ethically wrong to many
people, and this is accentuated once the beauty, grace and intelligence of many African animals is
witnessed in the wild. Can killing for fun ever be justified in a modern society? Hunters claim that
killing is not the purpose of hunting; instead, it’s all about outwitting and learning behavioural
patterns of their prey. Then why not take a camera instead of a rifle?
It is also argued that slaughtering wildlife in order to raise conservation funds to save it is a
twisted way of thinking. Further, improperly managed, trophy hunting can have seriously detri-
mental effects on wildlife, especially threatened and endangered species.
Although conservation organisations do not agree on policy towards hunting, the World Wildlife
Fund (WWF) has a pragmatic attitude, stating that ‘for endangered species, trophy hunting should
only be considered when all other options have been explored…and that trophy hunting, where
it is scientifically based and properly managed, has proven to be an effective conservation and
management method in some countries and for certain species’.
In 2004, CITES lifted a ban on hunting the black rhino, once a potent symbol of endangered
African animals, allowing an annual hunt quota of five each for South Africa and Namibia. Con-
servationists opposed to the move say that the rhino is still a target for poachers, with its horn
being highly valued in Asia and the Middle East. It is claimed that hunting quotas would make it
far easier to cover up the illegal trade of rhino horns from poached animals. Also, the black rhino
remains critically endangered in most countries outside Southern Africa. Namibia and South Africa
have pledged to spend the substantial revenues to improve conservation in their countries.
In 2006 South Africa proposed a new law that would end the practice of ‘canned hunting’,
in which wildlife bred in captivity are killed by tourists in sealed reserves. The law would make
breeding predators like cheetahs, lions or leopards specifically for hunting illegal. The average
price paid for canned hunting of a white rhinoceros is US$25,000.

Poaching is still a problem in countries such as Malawi and has increased

dramatically in Zimbabwe since the land seizures where world-class parks
and anti-poaching policies are under threat.
Many Africans believe conservation for its own sake is a luxurious Western
notion that the people of Southern Africa simply cannot afford. To concede
the benefits of conservation, locals need to see some of these benefits, and
that’s where tourism comes in. If the money earned from visitors coming
to enjoy the animals and the environment stays in the pockets of locals (or
in the country as a whole), then this will encourage wildlife and environ-
mental protection.
Income is also generated by the jobs that hunting and wildlife tourism
create, such as guides, game rangers, tour guides and various posts in the
associated hotels, lodges and camps. Further spin-offs include the sale of
crafts and curios.
For community initiatives and projects designed to combat local issues,
as well as examples of ecotourism, see the Environment section in country-
specific chapters.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
69

Wildlife Guide
Southern Africa’s animal kingdom will captivate, mesmerise and provide you with an un-
forgettable experience of the region. Thanks to its varied terrain, Southern Africa hosts an
amazing diversity of species and you’re practically guaranteed to see plenty of hoofed, tusked,
winged and other creatures, not to mention the fabled big cats and great herd animals.
The beauty of the wildlife is not just the Big Five (lion, leopard, Cape buffalo, black rhino
and elephant) either. You may be entertained by the clownish antics of the dwarf mongoose,
captivated by the speed and grace of a cheetah, awed by the beauty of a gemsbok, outraged
at the cheek of a curious baboon or startled at the rippling power of a hippo.
Habitat plays a big role when watching wildlife in Southern Africa – the animals are a
part of this land, and when you see their interactions with the temperate grasslands, dry
woodland or arid savanna, you’ll know that you’re seeing Africa.
As wildlife tourism is one of the main sources of revenue for conservation efforts in South-
ern Africa, the money you spend in national parks and reserves is often ploughed back into
these areas, thus ensuring the protection and sustainability of these magnificent creatures.
The following tips will help you get the most out of wildlife watching:

Wildlife viewing is generally best in the dry season, when sparse vegetation opens up the
view and thirsty animals congregate around water sources.

Be patient – take time to notice the environment. After spotting an animal, stop to look
around and you’ll usually notice a lot more activity. Staking out a water hole for several
hours will almost always reward you with a greater understanding of what’s going on.

Warthogs, baboons, zebras, giraffes and many antelope species happily associate with each
other, so it’s common to see several species at once. However, the presence of feeding herbi-
vores doesn’t preclude the possibility of a predator nearby, so be alert for stalking lions.

Don’t forget your binoculars, which will allow you to turn a speck in the distance into
something much more interesting, and will enhance bird-watching opportunities.
LEANNE LOGAN
70 71

DENNIS JONES

African Elephant
The largest land mammal is also one of the
most social, and it is very common to see
tremendous herds of elephants in Botswana
and Namibia. Elephants drink an average of
65 litres of water per day, so it’s usually safe
ANDREW PARKINSON
to assume that they’re congregating near a
water source.

Lion
Size: Shoulder height up to 4m (male), 3.5m
ANDREW PARKINSON
(female); weight 5 to 6.5 tonnes (male), 3 to 3.5
tonnes (female). Distribution: Widely distributed in
the region, though large populations occur only in
Lions are surprisingly easy to spot in South- protected areas.
ern Africa. They have a wide habitat toler-
ance, spend most of their days lying about and
largely ignore the sounds of camera shutters ANDREW PARKINSON

snapping. To see this massive predator in top

form, arrange for a guided night drive – lions
prefer to hunt under the cover of darkness.
Size: Shoulder height 1.2m; length 2.5m to 3m, including
tail up to 1m; weight up to 260kg (male), 180kg (female).
Distribution: Largely confined to protected areas and
present in all savanna and woodland parks in the region.

ADRIAN BAILEY

ANDREW PARKINSON
72 73

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African Buffalo
The African buffalo is regarded as the most
dangerous of the Big Five, primarily because
it will incessantly pursue a perceived attacker.
Furthermore, solitary males employ the ‘at- lonelyplanet.com/hotels
tack is the best defence’ tactic, though large

Leopard
herds are fairly relaxed and unlikely to charge.
Buffalo herds have fairly predictable move-
ments, seeking out good grazing and water
during the early morning and late afternoon.
Size: Shoulder height 1.6m; weight 400kg to 900kg; horns Africa’s most common cat, the leopard, is also
up to 1.25m long; female somewhat smaller than male. its most difficult to spot. True to their feline
Distribution: Widespread, but large populations occur roots, leopards spend most of their days sleep-
only in parks. ing in the tree tops (which is where they also
store kills). The services of a well-trained guide
DAVE HAMMAN are invaluable if you want to spot a leopard.
However, rare sightings do occur in the open,
particularly in woodland-savanna mosaics.
Size: Shoulder height 50cm to 75cm; length 1.6m to 2.1m,
including 70cm to 1.1m tail; weight up to 90kg; male
larger than female. Distribution: Widely spread through-
out the region, they also persist in human-altered habitat
due to their adaptability.

DAVE HAMMAN
DAVE HAMMAN

CHRISTER FREDRIKSSON
74 75
lonelyplanet.com
The latest travel information and advice from the global travel community.
The hippopotamus is found close to fresh
Your place to dream, plan, book and talk about independent travel.
water where it spends the majority of its
day before emerging at night to graze. It is
distantly related to the domestic pig.
CAROL POLICH

Black Rhinoceros
Black rhinos are edgy and nervous animals. ANDREW PARKINSON

When disturbed, they are quick to flee, though Steenboks are one of seven small species of
they will confront an aggressor head-on, par- antelopes that operate in monogamous pairs. They
ticularly if offspring are present. As a result, usually graze by day but will raid crops by night
they are difficult to observe in the wild, and are with astonishing stealth.
fewer in number than white rhinos. Black rhi-
nos can be identified by their triangular (rather
than square) lip and the lack of a neck hump. The world’s fastest land mammal, cheetahs can reach speeds over 105km/h, but become exhausted
Size: Shoulder height 1.6m; length 3m to 4m; weight after a few hundred metres and therefore stalk prey to within 60m before unleashing their tremen-
800kg to 1.4 tonnes; front horn up to 1.3m long. DENNIS JONES dous acceleration. On average, only one in four hunts is successful.
Distribution: Restricted to relict populations in a few DAVE HAMMAN

reserves (highly endangered).

MITCH REARDON
© Lonely Planet Publications
76
Zebras are dependent on water and are rarely
found more than an easy day’s walk away. Lions
converge on water holes to lay ambushes. Single
lions are able to take down a zebra, but it’s a
dangerous task; zebras defend themselves with
lethal kicks that easily break a jaw or leg.
ANDREW PARKINSON

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
JASON EDWARDS restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
Meerkats have refined keeping a lookout only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
to a dedicated art. While the troop forages
for scorpions, insects and lizards, a lone
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
sentinel watches for eagles and jackals. the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
One shrill alarm shriek from the guard and
the band rushes for cover.

Baboons live in troops of eight to 200; contrary to popular belief, there is no single dominant male.
Social interactions are complex, with males accessing only certain females, males forming alliances to
dominate other males, and males caring for unrelated juveniles.
DAVE HAMMAN
 © Lonely Planet Publications
BOTSWANA 76 lonelyplanet.com 77

BOTSWANA
Botswana
Botswana is an African success story. After achieving democratic rule in 1966, three of the
world’s richest diamond-bearing formations were discovered within its borders. Today, the
country enjoys a high standard of economic stability, education and health care, which, with
the exception of South Africa, is unequalled elsewhere in sub-Saharan Africa. Its modern
veneer, however, belies the fact that much of Botswana remains a country for the intrepid
(not to mention relatively wealthy) traveller. This largely roadless wilderness of vast spaces
requires time, effort and, above all else, lots of cash to enjoy it to its fullest.

Landlocked Botswana extends 1100km from north to south and 960km from east to west,
making it roughly the same size as Kenya, France or Texas. Most of the country is covered
with scrub brush and savanna grassland, although small areas of deciduous forest thrive
near the Zimbabwean border. With vast open savannas teeming with free-ranging wildlife,
Botswana is truly the Africa of your dreams.

Because the Okavango Delta and the Chobe River provide a year-round water supply,
nearly all Southern African mammal species are present in the Moremi Game Reserve and
in Chobe National Park. In the Makgadikgadi & Nxai Pan National Park, however, herds of
wildebeest, zebra and other hoofed mammals migrate annually in search of permanent
water and stable food supplies.

FAST FACTS

„ Area: 582,000 sq km
„ Capital: Gaborone
„ Country code: %267
„ Famous for: Okavango Delta, Chobe
National Park, the Kalahari
„ Languages: English, Setswana
„ Money: Pula (P)
„ Phrases: Dumela? (How are you?); dankie
(thank you)
„ Population: 1.61 million
 ὄὄὈὄὄὄ
BOTSWANA 78 B OT S W A N A • • H i g h l i g h t s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com B OT S W A N A • • H i s t o r y 79

BOTSWANA
wetlands, followed by a wildlife-viewing BOTSWANA 0
0
200 km
120 miles
HOW MUCH? trip through Moremi Game Reserve (p114).

ὈὈὈ ὄ
Ὀ
ὅὅ
Katima

„ One-day mokoro trip US$66 „ One Week Combine your visit to the delta Mulilo
ZAMBIA
ANGOLA Lake
with a safari through Chobe National Park

ὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅ
ὅ
Kasane Kariba
„ Ostrich egg-shell bracelet $5 Okavango
River Kongola Rv
Victoria Falls
(p101), one of the world’s top safari ex- o be
Ngoma
Kazungula
Zambe
zi Rive
r
Rundu
„ Stalk of sugar cane $0.25

ὅὅὅὅ
ὅ ὅ
periences. Either go overland through the Mohembo Ch Bridge Hwange

O anh
ka a
Kachikau

P
Shakawe
rugged interior of the park, or cruise (or

va nd
„ Foreign newspaper US$1.65 Nxamaseri Savuti Chobe Pandamatenga

n g le
NP

ὅὅὅὅ
ὅ

o
Sepupa
boat) along the wildlife-rich waterfront. Moremi

ὄὄὈὄὄὄ
ὈὈ
Tsodilo
„ Night in a budget hotel US$24.75 Hills GR Kwe Kwe
„ One Month With a month (and lots of The Etshas
Chiefs
Mababe
Depression

ὅὅὅὅ
Gumare
LONELY PLANET INDEX money), you can hire a 4WD or use a Ngamiland Okavango
Island
Makgadikgadi & ZIMB ABWE
Gweru
Delta
reputable safari company and see the best Aha Hills
Nokaneng
Shorobe
Nxai Pans
NP
„ 1L of petrol US$0.75 of the country: do a mokoro trip in the Nxainxai
Tsau
Maun Gweta Nata
Bulawayo
Nata
„ 1L of bottled water US$0.50-1 Delta (see the boxed text, p112); safari Gcwihaba Toteng Sanctuary Plumtree
NAMI B I A Caverns Sehithwa
in Moremi and Chobe; camp and hike Ntwetwe Thabatshukudu
Ramokgwebana
„ Bottle of beer US$1 Pan Sowa (Sua) Pan

ὈὈ Ὀ
in the Tsodilo Hills (p117); cruise on the Rakops Kubu
Gwanda
„ Souvenir T-shirt US$5-10 Okavango Panhandle; and explore the Orapa Island Francistown
Shashe
„ Snack US$1-2 furthest reaches of the Kalahari (p118). D'kar Lethlakane Shas
he R
iver
Selebi-
To Windhoek Ghanzi Phikwe Bobonong
Serule
CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO (298km)
Khama Rhino North-East Tuli Pont Drift

HIGHLIGHTS Although it straddles the Tropic of Capricorn, Mamuno

Charles Hill
Central Kalahari
GR
Sanctuary
Serowe
Game Reserve
li
Tu ck Baines
Beitbridge
Drift

Tr
Buitepos

ὈὈ Ὀ
„ Okavango Delta (p106) Glide through the Botswana experiences extremes in both tem- Palapye Bl o

an
Zanzibar

s -K
watery expanses in a mokoro, a trad- perature and weather. In the winter (late May Martin's Drift

ala
Shoshong Sherwood

h ar
Mahalapye
itional dugout canoe. to August), days are normally clear, warm and Groblersbrug

i
Hw
Tropic of Capricorn v er
Chobe National Park (p101) Spot the Big sunny, and nights are cool to cold. Wildlife never

y
„ Ri
Khutse Polokwane

opo
Kang
Five at Botswana’s premier safari park. wanders far from water sources so sightings Kgalakgadi
GR
Kopong
(Pietersburg)

Limp
Wilderness Letlhakeng
„ Central Kalahari Game Reserve (p119) Test are more predictable than in the wetter sum- Trail
Hukuntsi Tshane
Molepolole Mochudi
the limits of your survival instincts on a mer season. This is also the time of European, Kaa Jwaneng

ὈὈ
GABORONE Odi
4WD camping expedition. North American and – most importantly – Mabuasehube-
Nossob Wilderness
Khakea Thamaga
Tlokweng
Mabuasehube Gabane
„ Makgadikgadi Pans & Nxai Pan National Park South African school holidays, so some areas Trail
Section Kanye
Ramotswa

No
Werda Lobatse
(p100) Follow the herds of migrating can be busy, especially between mid-July and Mokolodi

sso
Tr ac k NR
c ce ss Zeerust

bR
zebras and wildebeests in this baobab- mid-September. In summer (October to April), P ubli Ac Rustenburg
PRETORIA

v
Ramatlabama
Kgalagadi
dotted salt-pan complex. wildlife is harder to spot and rains can render TP Mafikeng
Tshabong
„ Off the beaten track (p117) Wander through sandy roads impassable. This is also the time (Two Rivers SOUTH LEGEND Johannesburg

r
ve
the ‘Wilderness Louvre’ of ancient San of the highest humidity and the most stifling Section) AFRICA GR Game Reserve

Ri
NP National Park Ermelo
paintings at Tsodilo Hills. heat; daytime temperatures of over 40°C are Molop
o Vryburg NR Nature Reserve
TP Transfrontier Park
common. See p742 for more information on Bokspits To Kimberley WR Wildlife Reserve
ITINERARIES the climate in Southern Africa. (136km)

„ Three Days Botswana’s tourist highlight

is the Okavango Delta (p106), and if you HISTORY The Boers & the British Britain, though, already had its hands full
have only a few days, this is where you’ll For a detailed account of the pre-colonial In 1836, feeling pressured by the British in the in Southern Africa and was in no hurry to take
want to focus. Choose Maun (p106) or the history of the whole Southern African region, Cape, about 20,000 Boers set out on the Great on and support a country of dubious profit-
Okavango Panhandle (p116) as your base including Botswana’s precolonial history, Trek across the Vaal River into Batswana and ability. Instead, it offered to act as arbitrator
and organise a mokoro trip through the see p37. Zulu territory, staking out new farms for in the dispute. By 1877, however, animosity
themselves and displacing local villagers. against the Boers had escalated to such a dan-
Bent on establishing trade links with the gerous level that the British conceded and an-
TRAVEL TIPS Dutch and Portuguese, the Boers set up their nexed the Transvaal – thereby starting the first
Travelling cheaply in Botswana isn’t impossible, but if you can’t afford a flight into the Okavango, own free state ruling the Transvaal – a move Anglo-Boer War. The war continued until the
a day or two at Moremi Game Reserve or Chobe National Park, or a 4WD trip through the Kalahari, ratified by the British in the Sand River Con- Pretoria Convention of 1881, when the British
you may want to think twice before visiting. Safari lodges – especially those in the Okavango vention of 1852. This effectively placed the withdrew from the Transvaal in exchange for
Delta and Chobe National Park – are for the most part exclusive haunts of the wealthy, and you’ll Batswana under the rule of the so-called new Boer allegiance to the British Crown.
rarely find anything for less than US$300 for a double. Hotels, camping, car hire, domestic air South African Republic and a period of rebel- With the British out of their way, the
flights, meals, alcohol and self-catering prices are comparable to those in Europe, North America lion and heavy-handed oppression ensued. Boers once again looked northwards into
and Australasia, and although buses and trains are quite economical (US$1 per hour of journey Following heavy human and territorial losses, Batswana territory and pushed westwards
time), they won’t take you to the most interesting parts of the country. the Batswana chiefs petitioned the British gov- into the Molopo Basin. In 1882, the Boers
ernment for protection from the Boers. managed to subdue the towns of Taung and
BOTSWANA 80 B OT S W A N A • • H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com B OT S W A N A • • T h e S a n 81

BOTSWANA
Mafikeng and proclaimed them the republics to the British public. Fearing that the BSAC
of Stellaland and Goshen. They may have gone would allow alcohol in Bechuanaland, the THE SAN
much further if it wasn’t for a significant event LMS and other Christian groups backed the The Past
that was to change regional politics radically. devoutly Christian Khama and his entourage. Traditionally, the San were nomadic hunter-gatherers who travelled in small family bands (usually
This was the annexation of South West Africa The British public in general felt that the between 25 and 35 people) within well-defined territories. During the driest parts of the year
(modern-day Namibia) by the Germans in Crown should be administering the empire, these groups camped together at seasonal water holes; then in the wet season they’d scatter
the 1890s. rather than the controversial Cecil Rhodes. over the country. They had no chiefs or hierarchy of leadership, and decisions were reached by
With the potential threat of a German- When Chamberlain returned from holiday, group consensus. With no animals, crops or possessions the San were highly mobile. Everything
Boer alliance across the Kalahari, cutting public pressure had mounted to such a level that they needed for their daily existence they carried with them.
them off from their expansionist dreams into that the government was forced to concede to Initially, the San’s social flexibility enabled them to evade conquest and control. But as power-
mineral-rich Rhodesia (Zimbabwe), the Brit- the chiefs. Chamberlain agreed to continue ful tribes with big herds of livestock and farming ambitions moved into the area an inevitable
ish started to look seriously at the Batswana British administration of Bechuanaland, ced- conflict arose over the land. The San’s wide-ranging, nomadic lifestyle (some territories extended
petitions for protection. And in 1885 they ing only a small strip of the southeast (now over 1000 sq km) was utterly at odds with the settled world of the farmers and soon became a
proclaimed a protectorate over their Tswana known as the Tuli Block) to the BSAC for the source of bitter conflict between the two groups. It was a trend widely accelerated by European
allies, known as the British Crown Colony of construction of a railway line to Rhodesia. colonists who arrived in the mid-17th century. The early Boers hatched an extermination campaign
Bechuanaland. that lasted 200 years and killed as many as 200,000 indigenous people. Such territorial disputes,
Colonial Years combined with modern policies on wildlife conservation, have seen the San increasingly disen-
Cecil John Rhodes By 1899, Britain had decided it was time to franchised and dispossessed. What’s more, in the modern world their disparate social structure
To alleviate them of the heavy burden of co- consolidate the Southern African states and has made it exceedingly difficult for them to organise pressure groups to defend their rights
lonial expense, British expansion in Southern declared war on the Transvaal. The Boers were and land as other tribes have done.
Africa came in the form of a private venture overcome in 1902, and in 1910 the Union of
under the auspices of the British South Africa South Africa was created, comprising Natal, the
Company (BSAC), owned by millionaire busi- Cape Colony, Transvaal and the Free State – The Present
nessman Cecil John Rhodes. with provisions for the future incorporation Unlike most other African countries, where the San have perished or disappeared through war and
By 1889 Rhodes already had a hand in of Bechuanaland and Rhodesia. interbreeding, Botswana and Namibia are privileged to retain the remnants of their San communi-
the diamond-mining industry in Kimber- By selling cattle, draught oxen and grain to ties, barely 55,000 individuals in total. Of these around 60% live in Botswana (the !Kung, G//ana, G/wi
ley, South Africa, and he was convinced that the Europeans streaming north in search of and !xo being the largest groups) and 35% in Namibia (the Naro, !Xukwe, Hei//kom and Ju/hoansi),
other African countries had similar mineral farming land and minerals, Bechuanaland en- with the remainder scattered throughout South Africa, Angola, Zimbabwe and Zambia.
deposits just waiting to be exploited. He aimed joyed an initial degree of economic independ- Today, the San are unequivocally impoverished. Many work on farms and cattle-posts or languish
to do this through the system of land conces- ence. However, the construction of a railway in squalid, handout-dependent and alcohol-plagued settlements centred around boreholes in
sions that companies could obtain privately in through Bechuanaland to Rhodesia, and a western Botswana and northeastern Namibia, as debate rages around them as to their ‘place’ in
order to colonise new land for the Crown. The serious outbreak of foot-and-mouth disease modern African society and the practicality of their lifestyle.
system was easily exploited by the unscrupu- in the 1890s, destroyed the transit trade. This Nearly all of Botswana’s and Namibia’s San have now been relocated from their ancestral
lous Rhodes, who fraudulently obtained large new economic vulnerability, combined with a lands to new government settlements such as New Xade in the central Kalahari. It’s the biggest
tracts of land from local chiefs by passing off series of droughts and the need to raise cash political hot-potato that the Botswana government currently faces (see the boxed text, p119). In
contracts as treaties. For their part, the British to pay British taxes, sent many Batswana to March 2006 this resettlement programme earned the government a stinging reprimand from the
turned a blind eye as they eventually hoped to South Africa to look for work on farms and UN’s Committee on the Elimination of Racial Discrimination, who advised them ‘to pay particular
transfer the entire Bechuanaland Protectorate in mines; as many as 25% of Botswana’s male attention to the close cultural ties that bind the San to their ancestral land’. The Botswana govern-
to the BSAC and relieve themselves of the population was abroad at any one time. This ment maintains that their relocation policies have the San’s best interests at heart (see the section
expense of colonial administration. accelerated the breakdown of traditional land- ‘Relocation of Basarwa’ on the government website, www.gov.bw). Development, education and
Realising the implications of Rhodes’ as- use patterns and eroded the chiefs’ powers. modernisation are their buzz-words. The trouble is, many San actively reject the government’s
pirations, three Batswana chiefs, Bathoen, The British government continued to regard version of modernisation if it means giving up their ancestral lands and traditions.
Khama III and Sebele, accompanied by a the protectorate as a temporary expedient,
sympathetic missionary, WC Willoughby, until it could be handed over to Rhodesia or The Future
sailed to England to appeal directly to the the new Union of South Africa. Hence invest- The outlook for the San people is uncertain, whatever happens. One of Africa’s greatest dilemmas
British parliament for continued government ment and administrative development within in the 21st century is how to preserve old cultures and traditions while accepting and adapting
control of Bechuanaland. Instead of taking the territory were kept to a bare minimum. to the new.
action, Colonial Minister Joseph Chamberlain Even when there were moves in the 1930s to Historical precedents like Native Americans, the Innu of Canada and Australian Aboriginals certainly
advised them to contact Rhodes directly and reform administration or initiate agricultural don’t bode well. But the groundswell of protest generated by grass-roots organisations like WIMSA
work things out among themselves. Cham- and mining development, these were hotly (Working Group for Indigenous Minorities of Southern Africa; www.san.org.za) is gaining ever more international
berlain then conveniently forgot the matter disputed by leading Tswana chiefs, on the attention, increasingly so now that Survival International (www.survival-international.org) has joined the
and went on holiday. grounds that they would only enhance colonial campaign of Botswana’s First Peoples of the Kalahari (FPK) for the restitution of their land rights in
Naturally, Rhodes was immovable, so the control. So the territory remained divided the Central Kalahari Game Reserve (CKGR). The High Court of Botswana ruled in favour of the San
delegation turned to the London Missionary into eight largely self-administering ‘tribal’ in December 2006, but the government appears to be obstructing their return to the CKGR.
Society (LMS) who in turn took the matter reserves, five white settler farm blocks with
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BOTSWANA
the remainder classified as ‘crown’ (ie state) the giant to the south, from where they im- to coordinate the disparate economies of the and the future that is rare in post-colonial Af-
lands. Similarly, the administrative capital, ported the majority of their foodstuffs and region. rica. Admittedly this faith in government and
Mafikeng, which was actually situated outside where many Batswana worked in the dia- But the diamond boon also has its dark side progress has been facilitated by Botswana’s
the protectorates’ border in South Africa, re- mond mines. Nevertheless, Khama refused and with a lifespan estimated at only 35 years, incredible diamond wealth, which has allowed
mained where it was until 1964. to exchange ambassadors with South Africa the Botswana government is looking at a bleak for significant investment in education, health
and officially disapproved of apartheid in future if they fail to find alternative revenue and infrastructure.
Independence international circles. streams. With diminishing reserves the min-
The extent of Botswana’s subordination to the ing of diamonds is set to become increasingly Daily Life
interests of South Africa during this period Modern Politics contentious, as the court case brought by Traditional culture also acts as a sort of soci-
became clear in 1950. In a case that caused Sir Seretse Khama died in 1980 (not long the First Peoples of the Kalahari against the etal glue. Respect for one’s elders, firmly held
political controversy in Britain and across after Zimbabwean independence), but his government has proved (see the boxed text, religious beliefs, traditional gender roles and
the Empire, the British government banned Botswana Democratic Party (BDP), formerly p119). One of the allegations against the gov- the tradition of the kgotla (a specially desig-
Seretse Khama from the chieftainship of the the Bechuanaland Democratic Party, contin- ernment is that the San were resettled to free nated meeting place in each village where
Ngwato and exiled him for six years. This, as ues to command a substantial majority in the the way for a Debswana mining concession. grievances can be aired in an atmosphere
secret documents have since revealed, was in Botswana parliament. Sir Ketumile ‘Quett’ In her evidence, Pelonomi Venson, Minister of mutual respect) create a well-defined so-
order to appease the South African govern- Masire, who succeeded Khama as president for Wildlife & Tourism in 2002, stated, ‘That cial structure with some stiff mores at its
ment which objected to Seretse’s marriage to (1980–98), followed the path laid down by development may take place…I cannot say core. But despite some heavyweight social
a British woman at a time when racial segrega- his predecessor, and continued to cautiously conclusively. Should the state discover min- responsibilities the Batswana have an easy-
tion was enforced in South Africa. follow pro-Western policies. erals anywhere, they will be mined for the going and unhurried approach to life, and
Such meddling only increased growing Over the last 35 years the BDP have also benefit of Botswana’. the emotional framework of the extended
political agitation and throughout the 1950s managed the country’s diamond windfall family generally makes for an inclusive net-
and ’60s Batswana political parties started to wisely. Diamond dollars have been ploughed THE CULTURE work. As the pace and demands of modern
surface and promote the idea of independ- into infrastructure, education and health. The National Psyche life increase this support is becoming ever
ence. Following the Sharpeville Massacre in Private business has been allowed to grow Proud, conservative, resourceful and respect- more vital as men and women migrate to
1960, South African refugees Motsamai Mpho and foreign investment has been welcomed. ful, the Batswana have an ingrained feeling of cities to work in more lucrative jobs, usually
of the African National Congress (ANC), and From 1966 to 2005, Botswana’s economy has national identity and an impressive belief in leaving children behind to be cared for by
Philip Matante, a Johannesburg preacher affili- grown faster than any other in world. Yet their government and country. Their history – other family members.
ated with the Pan-Africanist Congress, joined cabinet ministers have not awarded them- a series of clever manoeuvres that meant
with KT Motsete, a teacher from Malawi, to selves mansions and helicopters, and even they avoided the worst aspects of colonisa- Population
form the Bechuanaland People’s Party (BPP). the current president, Festus Mogae, has been tion – does them proud and lends them a Botswana’s population in 2006 was estimated
Its immediate goal was independence. seen doing his own shopping. All in all, it is confidence in themselves, their government at 1,640,000 people, a figure that takes into
In 1962, Seretse Khama and Kanye farmer an impressive record.
Ketumile ‘Quett’ Masire formed the moderate
Bechuanaland Democratic Party (BDP). The Diamond Dementia MOVERS & SHAKERS: SERETSE KHAMA
BDP formulated a schedule for independ- Following independence, Botswana ranked When Bangwato chief (kgosi in Setswana) Khama III died in 1923, he was succeeded by his son,
ence, drawing on support from local chiefs as one of the world’s poorest countries with Sekgoma, who died only two years later. Because the next heir to the throne, Seretse Khama,
such as Bathoen II of the Bangwaketse, and a shocking GDP per capita below US$200. was only four years old, the job of regent went to his 21-year-old uncle, Tshekedi Khama, who
traditional Batswana. The BDP also called Educational facilities were minimal, with left his studies in South Africa to return to Serowe.
for the transfer of the capital into Botswana less than 2% of the population having com- Uproar in the Khama dynasty occurred in 1948 when Seretse married an Englishwoman, Ruth
(ie from Mafikeng to Gaborone) and a new pleted primary school and fewer than 100 Williams, while studying law in London. As a royal, Seretse was expected – and required – to
nonracial constitution. students enrolled in university. And in the take a wife from a Batswana royal family. Indignant at such a breach of tribal custom, Tshekedi
The British gratefully accepted the BDP’s entire country there was only one 12km-long stripped his nephew of his inheritance. Seretse was exiled from Serowe by Bangwato leaders, and
peaceful plan for a transfer of power, and paved road. Hardly surprising then that the from the protectorate by the British, who assured him that he’d be better off in London.
Khama was elected president when general country played no role in either regional or However, Tshekedi lost his regency when an overwhelming majority of the Bangwato backed
elections were held in 1965. On 30 September continental politics. Seretse over his uncle, forcing Tshekedi to gather his followers and settle elsewhere. Subsequent
1966, the country – now called the Republic of Then, in 1967, Botswana effectively won breakdowns in Bangwato tribal structure prompted Tshekedi to return to Serowe in 1952 with
Botswana – was granted full independence. the jackpot with the discovery of diamonds a change of heart. Seretse was still being detained in Britain though, and it wasn’t until 1956,
With a steady hand, Seretse Khama steered at Orapa. Two other major mines followed when he renounced his claim to the Bangwato throne, that he was permitted to return to Serowe
Botswana through its first 14 years of inde- at Letlhakane in 1977 and Jwaneng in 1982, with his English wife.
pendence. He guaranteed continued freehold making Botswana the world’s leading pro- While in Serowe, Seretse and his wife began campaigning for Botswana’s independence. Even-
over land held by white ranchers and adopted ducer of gem-quality stones and catapulting tually, Seretse was knighted for his efforts, and became the country’s first president, a post he
a strictly neutral stance (at least until near the country from a poor, provincial backwater held until his death 14 years later. In a final act of reconciliation, Sir Seretse Khama was buried
the end of his presidency) towards South to a regional player of some substance, able in the Royal Cemetery in Serowe. His son, Ian, is still chief of the Bangwato and currently vice
Africa and Rhodesia. The reason, of course, to form the Southern African Development president of Botswana.
was Botswana’s economic dependence on Community (SADC), whose function it is
BOTSWANA 84 B OT S W A N A • • A r t s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com B OT S W A N A • • F o o d & D r i n k 85

BOTSWANA
account the fact that Botswana has one of the and poetry of the San, Tswana, Herero and the otherwise dry savanna, nearly all Southern When booking, include the name of the
highest rates of HIV infection in the world. other groups has been handed down orally African mammal species, including such rar- park, the camping ground, the dates of arrival
Since the early 1990s, the annual birth rate and only recently written down. ities as pukus, red lechwes, sitatungas and wild and departure, the total number of camp-
has dropped from 3.5% to about 2.3% and in Botswana’s most famous modern literary dogs, are present in Moremi Game Reserve, ers and whether they are citizens, residents
2006 the annual population growth rate was figure was Bessie Head, who settled in Sir parts of Chobe National Park and the Linyanti or nonresidents of Botswana. Payment in
estimated at –0.04%. Officially, life expectancy Seretse Khama’s village of Serowe and wrote Marshes. In the Makgadikgadi & Nxai Pan Botswana pula or by credit card must be re-
soared from 49 years at the time of independ- works that reflected the harshness and beauty National Park, herds of wildebeests, zebras and ceived within one month or you forfeit the
ence (1966) to about 70 years by the mid-1990s, of African village life and the Botswanan land- other hoofed mammals migrate between their booking.
and it’s thought that without the scourge of scape. Her most widely read works include winter range on the Makgadikgadi plains and
AIDS life expectancy in Botswana would now Serowe – Village of the Rain Wind, When Rain the summer lushness of the Nxai Pan region. Environmental Issues
be around 74 years, on a par with the USA. Clouds Gather, Maru, A Question of Power, While much of Botswana is largely wide open
Instead, today’s figure is a depressing 33 years The Cardinals, A Bewitched Crossroad and National Parks and pristine, it does face several ecological
of age and this is expected to decrease even The Collector of Treasures; the last is an an- Botswana’s national parks are among Africa’s challenges. The main one revolves around
further by 2010 to a devastating 27 years. thology of short stories. Head died in 1988. wildest, characterised by open spaces where its 3000km of 1.5m-high ‘buffalo fence’,
Welcome recent additions to Botswana’s nature still reigns supreme, and although officially called the ‘veterinary cordon fence’ –
Immigration & Emigration national literature are the works of Norman they do support a few private safari conces- a series of high-tensile steel wire barriers that
Due to the political and economic instability Rush, which include the novel Mating, set sions, there’s next to no infrastructure and cross some of the country’s wildest terrain. The
that swept through Zimbabwe in recent years, in a remote village, and Whites, which deals few amenities. fences were first erected in 1954 to segregate
the volume of illegal immigrants crossing with the country’s growing number of expa- The major parks include the Central Ka- wild buffalo herds from domestic free-range
into Botswana in search of work is on the triates and apologists from South Africa and lahari Game Reserve, Chobe National Park, cattle and thwart the spread of foot-and-mouth
rise. According to Botswana’s Department elsewhere. Khutse Game Reserve, Kgalagadi Transfron- disease. However, it hasn’t been proven that the
of Immigration, over 25,000 Zimbabwean tier Park (an amalgamation of Botswana’s disease is passed from species to species and the
illegal immigrants were apprehended and ENVIRONMENT former Mabuasehube-Gemsbok National fences not only prevent contact between wild
repatriated from Botswana in 2005 alone. The Land Park and South Africa’s Kalahari-Gemsbok and domestic bovine species, but also prevent
When interviewed, immigrants claimed that With an area of 582,000 sq km, landlocked National Park), Makgadikgadi & Nxai Pan other wild animals from migrating to water
their motivation for fleeing Zimbabwe was the Botswana extends 1100km from north to National Park and Moremi Game Reserve. sources along age-old seasonal routes. While
lack of opportunities for stable employment. south and 960km from east to west, making The North-East Tuli Game Reserve is not a Botswana has set aside large areas for wildlife
Furthermore, many Zimbabwean families it about the same size as Kenya or France. national park, but rather is cobbled together protection, they don’t constitute independent
survive on remittances from family members Most of the country lies at an average eleva- from several private reserves. ecosystems, and migratory wildlife numbers
working abroad, especially considering that tion of 1000m and consists of a vast and nearly Fees for parks (except for Kgalagadi Trans- (particularly wildebeests, giraffes and zebras)
the value of the Zimbabwean dollar is under- level sand-filled basin characterised by scrub- frontier Park) for nonresidents are US$22/13 continue to decline. Cattle ranching is a source
going hyperinflation. However, although covered savanna. The Kalahari (Kgalagadi), a (P133/79) per day for individual travellers/ of wealth and a major export industry, but all
most Batswana empathise with the plight of semi-arid expanse of wind-blown sand depos- licensed safari participants, plus US$5.50 (P33) exported beef must be disease-free, so under-
Zimbabweans, the situation is threatening to its and long, sandy valleys, covers nearly 85% per person for camping; foreign/Botswana- standably ranchers have reacted positively to
spiral out of control. of Botswana, including the entire central and registered vehicles pay US$10/2 per day. Chil- the fences, and the government tends to side
southwestern regions. In the northwest the dren and Botswana residents and citizens get with the ranchers.
ARTS Okavango River flows in from Namibia and substantial discounts (residents of Botswana Botswana also has water issues. From the
Arts & Crafts soaks into the sands, forming the Okavango pay US$6/4 per day to enter/camp and citizens time of the first European colonists, both
The original Batswana artists managed to Delta, which covers an area of 15,000 sq km. pay US$2/1). At Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, settlers and developers have been eyeing the
convey individuality, aesthetics and aspects In the northeast are the great salty clay deserts everyone pays US$4 per day to enter and non- Okavango Delta as a source of water to trans-
of Batswana life in their utilitarian imple- of the Makgadikgadi Pans. residents pay US$6 to camp plus US$37 per day form northwestern Botswana into lush, green
ments. Baskets, pottery, fabrics and tools were to use the wilderness 4WD tracks (see p118). farmland. Nowadays, pressure from popula-
decorated with meaningful designs derived Wildlife You can book accommodation in the na- tion growth, mining interests and increased
from tradition. Europeans introduced a new Most of the country is covered with scrub tional parks by post, phone; fax, email or in tourism – particularly around Maun – are
form of art, some of which was integrated and brush and savanna grassland, although small person up to one year prior to your intended straining resources and placing the delta at
adapted to local interpretation, particularly in areas of deciduous forest (mopane, msasa and visit. Contact the reservation office of the the crux of a debate between the government,
weavings and tapestries. The result is some Zambezi teak) thrive on the Zimbabwean bor- Department of Wildlife & National Parks (DWNP; Map ranchers, engineers, developers, tour oper-
of the finest and most meticulously executed der. The Okavango and Linyanti wetlands of pp88-9; %318 0774; fax 318 0775; dwnp@gov.bw; PO Box ators, rural people and conservationists.
work in Southern Africa. the northwest are characterised by riverbank 131, Government Enclave, Khama Cres, Gaborone; h7.30am- See p26 for information on what you can
and swamp vegetation, which includes reeds, 12.45pm & 1.45-4.30pm Mon-Fri). You can also book do to travel responsibly in Botswana.
Literature papyrus and water lilies as well as larger trees through the Maun office (%686 1265; fax 686 1264;
As indigenous languages have only been writ- such as acacia, jackalberry, leadwood and PO Box 20364, Boseja, Maun), beside the police sta- FOOD & DRINK
ten since the coming of the Christian mis- sausage trees. tion. Chobe National Park bookings are also Food
sionaries, Botswana lacks an extensive literary Because the Okavango Delta and the Chobe available from the Kasane office (%625 0235; Although eating out isn’t particularly exciting –
tradition. What survives of the ancient myths River provide an incongruous water supply in fax 625 1623). Botswana has no great national cuisine to knock
BOTSWANA 86 GABORONE lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com GABORONE •• History 87

BOTSWANA
venient gateway to overland travellers arriving this considerably more modern, but expensive, hospital,
TRADITIONAL FOODS IN BOTSWANA from South Africa, and it’s a good supply stop opposite Broadhurst Mall.
Traditionally, the Tswana staple was beef, the Yei depended on fish, and the Kalanga ate mainly before heading out to the national parks.
sorghum, millet and maize; while the Herero subsisted on thickened, soured milk. Nowadays, Money
most people get their food from agriculture or the supermarket, but before South African imports HISTORY Major branches of Standard Chartered and
arrived, people herded animals and looked to the desert, which dished up a diverse array of wild In 1964, when the village of Gaborone (named Barclays Banks have foreign-exchange facili-
edibles to augment their staple foods. for an early Tlokwa chief) was designated as ties and ATMs, and offer cash advances. The
Historically, Batswana men were responsible for fishing or tending the herds, and lived mainly the future capital of independent Botswana, few bureaux de change around the city offer
on meat and milk, while women were left to gather and eat wild fruits and vegetables. In remote the task of designing the new city was assigned quick service at better rates than the banks,
areas, people still supplement their diets with these items. A useful desert plant is the morama, to the Department of Public Works, which but charge up to 2.75% commission.
an immense underground tuber that contains liquid and is a source of water. Above ground, never envisaged a population of more than Barclays Bank (%355 3411; Khama Cres)
the morama grows leguminous pods that contain edible beans. Other desert delectables include 20,000. By 1990, however, the population was Edcom Bureau de Change (%361 1123) Near the
marula fruit, plums, berries, tubers and roots, tsama melons, wild cucumbers and honey. six times that, and Gaborone is now amongst train station.
A fungus that grows on the Grewia flavia bush is related to the European truffle. In San mythol- the fastest-growing cities in Southern Africa.
ogy, these so-called Kalahari truffles are thought to be the eggs of the lightning bird because Post
their presence is revealed by rings of cracked soil around the bush after electrical storms. The ORIENTATION In addition to the central post office (The Mall),
bush itself produces a small shrivelled berry, used locally to make kgadi wine. The nutritious and Although it now has a distinct skyline, Gabor- there is also a post office located across the
protein-rich mongongo nut, similar to the cashew, is eaten raw or roasted, and has historically one lacks any real central business district, road from Broadhurst Mall.
been a staple for some San groups. and the action focuses on its shopping malls.
Traditional people – mainly the San – still gather wild animal products, such as birds and Most government ministries and offices are Tourist Information
their eggs, small mammals and reptiles and even ant eggs. Mopane worms, caterpillar-like in- concentrated around the Government En- Department of Tourism (%355 3024; www.gov
habitants of mopane trees, are normally gutted and cooked in hot ash for about 15 minutes. clave along Khama Cres, at the head of the .bw/tourism; 2nd fl, Standard Chartered Bank Bldg, the
Alternatively, they’re boiled in salt water or dried in the sun to be later deep-fried in fat, roasted main mall. While several shopping centres Mall; h7.30am-12.30pm & 1.45-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Has
or eaten raw. serve local neighbourhoods, the enormous greatly improved over recent years.
Kgale Centre and Riverwalk Malls pro- Department of Wildlife & National Parks (DWNP;
vide the widest range of retail outlets and %318 0774; dwnp@gov.bw; Government Enclave,
your socks off – self-caterers will find the pick- drink it fast enough to feel it). You’ll also restaurants. Khama Cres, Gaborone; hreservations 7.30am-12.45pm
ings among the best in Africa. Restaurants nor- find Castle, Lion and Windhoek Lager (from & 1.45-4.30pm Mon-Fri) One of the two accommoda-
mally serve up decent, if unimaginative, fare. Namibia), as well as a growing range of spirit INFORMATION tion booking offices (the other is in Maun; see p107) for
Vegetarian and international cuisines haven’t coolers. Some of the more popular traditional Bookshops national parks and reserves run by the DWNP.
really caught on, but in Gaborone, Francistown alcoholic drinks are less than legal, including Exclusive Books (Riverwalk Mall) This reader-
and Maun, you’ll find Chinese, Indian, French mokolane wine, a potent swill made from recommended bookshop has a wide range of literature, SIGHTS
and Italian options. In smaller towns, expect distilled palm sap. Another is kgadi, made nonfiction and travel books. The National Museum & Art Gallery (%397 4616;
little menu variation: chicken, chips, beef and from a distilled brew of brown sugar and ber- Kingston’s Bookshop (Broadhurst Mall) Has a huge Independence Ave; Private Bag 0014; admission free; h9am-
greasy fried snacks are the norm. ries or fungus. Other home brews include the array of novels, postcards, books and maps about 6pm Tue-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun) is a repository of
Forming the basis of most traditional Bat- common bojalwa, an inexpensive, sprouted Botswana and the region. stuffed wildlife and cultural artefacts, includ-
swana meals are mabele (sorghum) or bogobe sorghum beer that is also brewed commer- ing displays on San crafts, material culture and
(sorghum porridge), or the increasingly popu- cially; a wine made from fermented marula Emergency hunting techniques, traditional and modern
lar imported mielies (maize) and mielie pap fruit; light and nonintoxicating mageu, made Ambulance (%997) African and European art, and ethnographic
(maize porridge). All of these are typically from mielies or sorghum mash; and madila, a Central Police Station (%355 1161; Botswana Rd) and cultural exhibits.
served with some sort of meat relish and eaten thickened sour milk. Opposite the Cresta President Hotel. The Gaborone Game Reserve (%358 4492; admis-
with the fingers. Fire (%998) sion US$0.25, plus per vehicle US$0.50; h6.30am-6.30pm),
Open markets aren’t as prevalent here as Police (%999) 1km east of Broadhurst, is accessible only by
in neighbouring countries, but Gaborone,
Francistown and Maun do have growing in-
GABORONE Internet Access
private vehicle (no bikes or motorcycles), and
is home to a variety of grazers and browsers.
formal markets where you’ll find inexpensive pop 250,000 Aim Internet (Botswana Rd; per hr US$3) Next to the Access is from Limpopo Dr; turn east imme-
produce and other staples. Botswana’s diminutive capital, Gaborone Cresta President Hotel. diately south of the Segoditshane River.
(normally affectionately shortened to Gabs), Sakeng Internet Access Point (The Mall; US$3 per Orapa House (%395 1131; cnr Nelson Mandela Dr &
Drinks is little more than a rambling village suffering hour) In the Gaborone Hardware Building. Khama Cres), owned by Debswana, is designed to
A range of 100% natural fruit juices from from growing pains, drabness and a lack of make use of natural daylight – without direct
South Africa are sold in casks in supermarkets definition. For most international travellers Medical Services sunlight – for the purpose of sorting and
in the major cities and towns. You’ll also find flying into Botswana, the bustling town of Gaborone Hospital Dental Clinic (%395 3777) Part grading diamonds from the world’s largest
a variety of tea, coffee and soft drinks. Maun (p106), located on the banks of the of the Gaborone Private Hospital. diamond mine at Jwaneng. If you have time
Botswana’s main domestic drop is the very Okavango Delta, serves as the principal port Gaborone Private Hospital (%360 1999; and aren’t put off by red tape, you can muster
light St Louis Special Light lager (you can’t of entry. However, Gaborone serves as a con- Segoditshane Way) For anything more serious, head to a group and arrange a tour.
ὈὈ
BOTSWANA 88 GABORONE lonelyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com GABORONE •• Activities 89

BOTSWANA
GABORONE 0
0
1 km
0.5 miles
ACTIVITIES
Visitors are welcome at the 18-hole Gaborone

ὈὈ
A B C 38
D E F Golf Course (%361 2262; Chuma Dr; hclosed Mon).
To Broadhurst
To German Temporary membership, which includes use

Pillane St
22 Mall (400m);
Dr Sir Seretse Khama Embassy (500m);
u se 8 of the swimming pool, bars and restaurants,
Ho International Mochudi (32km)
Ku Airport (11km);
11
costs US$10 per day. Green fees for 9/18 holes
e

1 Pula Circle
at

bu Francistown (425km) 1
St

Queen's Rd 10 Rd 15

Rd
18 43 Broadhurst
are an extra US$3/6, and equipment is avail-

Limpo
5 20

tse
34 17 Broadhurst Dr
The Mall

ba
7 able for rental at the pro shop. The National

Lo
Park cle

po
ir
27 1 Pula C
Stadium (%395 3449; Notwane Rd; tickets from US$1)

Dr
Botswana Rd45
s
a Cre

13
plays host to matches between teams in the

Independence Ave
6

Tati Rd
St

Robinson
Kutlwano Cl
Kham

countrywide Super League as well as the oc-

at

Segoditshane River Mohatha Rd

e

Ho
Khwai Rd

Selemela
us 25 To Gaborone
e
Dr GR (100m) casional international game. Matches start

Segoditshane Wa
4
Rd
at 4pm on Saturdays and Sundays, and are
24 0 400 m usually advertised and publicised in the local

Rd
EATING
3 0 0.2 miles
2 40 25º East.................................(see 41) English-language newspapers.

wn
33 2

cisto
35 Bull & Bush Pub.......................33 C2
Sebo Nyerere Dr

y
Equatorial Cafe......................(see 41)
Rd ni 39

Fran
Metsemasweu Rd
Fishmonger............................(see 41)
King's Takeaway.......................34 B1
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Madibeng
Maharaja Restaurant................35 C2 The national holidays of Sir Seretse Khama Day,
Milano's Chicken & Pizza.......(see 42)
President’s Day and Botswana/Independence Day
Rd

Terrace Restaurant.................(see 27)

To Grand Palm Hotel
(see p125) are always cause for celebration in
atse

Casino Resort (5km); Gabane

(23km); Kolobeng (33km); ENTERTAINMENT
the capital. Details about these events are ad-
Lob

Dr

Thamaga (48km); Alliance Française.....................36 E4

ndela

Molepolole (50km)
Bull & Bush PubXXXEnt..........(see 33) vertised in local English-language newspapers
Keg & Zebra..........................(see 41)
n Ma

Phologolo
Dr 29 and in the ‘What’s On’ column of the Bot-
t's
To Kgale Centre Mall (500m);
St

en

3
Nelso

Mt Kgale (6km); Gaborone SHOPPING 3 swana Advertiser. Gaborone also plays host to
id
rcial

Ind
INFORMATION Mokolodi Nature
es

2 Golf Course
African Mall............................. 37 D4
Pr

Reserve (13km)
a number of local festivals and events:
epe
e

Aim Internet...................................1 B1 State

Nyerere Dr
omm

House Botswelelo Botswana Craft......................(see 27)

nde
Angolan Embassy........................... 2 C3
Craft Workshop.......................38 D1 Maitisong Festival Established in 1987, the Maitisong
rn C

Barclays Bank.................................3 A2 Kh
nce A

North Ring
am Jewel of Africa.......................(see 37)
a
Botswana Telecom.........................4 A2 Festival is the largest performing arts festival in Botswana,

Hospital Way
National
Easte

ve Maru-a-Pula (No Mathatha)

Cr

British High Commission & British Badiri Stadium

Centre..................................39 E2 and is held annually for seven days during the last week of
es

Council.......................................5 A1 To National
See Enlargement Nyere Shopping Centre............40 D2
Central Police Station......................6 B1 Stadium (250m)
March or the first week of April.
Rd
Riverwalk Mall..........................41 F5
Central Post Office.........................7 B1 Mo
lepo Queens Rd Notwane Rd South Ring Mall....................... 42 D5
Department of Immigration Head lole
Rd
The Mall
Mosque Boitshoko Traditional Dance Competition Late March.
Office.........................................8 A1 Dilalelo
Department of Surveys & Mapping..9 C4
44 Market Botswana Rd TRANSPORT Industry & Technology Fair Held at the Gaborone
Stalls
South Ring
Air Botswana............................43 B1
Show Grounds in May.
Embassy

Department of Tourism.................10 B1 28 30
21 University Bus Station...............................44 B4
4 Department of Wildlife & National Parks 46
(DWNP)...................................11 A1 19
Selemela of Botswana Combi Stand..........................(see 46) 4 International Trade Fair Also held at the Gaborone

Mobutu Dr
Intercape Mainliner................(see 18)
Show Grounds, in August.
Dr

Edcom Bureau de Change............ 12 C4 12 36 Taxi Stand................................45 B1

Rd

Exclusive Books..........................(see 41) Train Station 23 Taxi Stand............................... 46 C4

French Embassy............................13 B1 Ka
Gaborone Club.............................14 F4
Gaborone Hospital Dental Clinic..(see 15)
Station Rd
9
un
da
37 31
SLEEPING
Gaborone Private Hospital............15 E1
Market Mmaraka
Stalls
Rd Jawara
Rd
14 Budget
Namibian High Commission.........16 C5 The best camping in the Gaborone area

Okwa Rd
Sakeng Internet Access Point........17 B1
Standard Chartered Bank ATM.....18 B1 ve 42
32
Mophato
is at the nearby Mokolodi Nature Reserve

ὈὈ
A Rd
Standard Chartered Bank...........(see 10) ce adiba (p93).
Old Lobatse Rd

US Embassy................................. 19 C4
Macheng Rd en Marat
Sekgwa nd
Zambian High Commission...........20 B1 Ind
epe Boiketlo Lodge (%355 2347; Khama Cres; s/d with
5 Zimbabwean High Commission.... 21 C4 5 shared bathroom US$18/30; p) The most afford-

Rd

River
Bontleng
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES 16
Village
able hotel in town is dirt cheap and centrally

e
ash
National Museum & Art Gallery....22 C1
located, though grungy rooms and question-

ne
Sh
Orapa House............................... 23 C4

wa
es able security are serious drawbacks. Boiketlo is
Cr

ot
Tlokweng Rd

Ng
SLEEPING on
lis 41
poorly signed, though it can be found opposite

ὈὈ
Boiketlo Lodge.............................24 A2 Al
Brackendene Lodge......................25 B2 the Botswana Post building.
Cresta Lodge............................... 26 C6
Cresta President Hotel..................27 B1 oBrackendene Lodge (%361 2886; Tati Rd;
Gaborone Hotel...........................28 B4 Babusi
To Lonaka Inn (1.3km); s/d from US$24/45; pa) Although there are a few
Gaborone Sun Hotel & Casino......29 E3 r Gaborone South African
Lolwapa Lodge.............................30 E4 he
l D Show Grounds Border (2km) recently renovated rooms located in the main
6 ac
Planet Lodge................................ 31 D4
r aM 6 building, the Brackendene is more a collection
South Ring Lodge........................ 32 D5 mo
Sa of small houses than an organised lodge. The
Rd
e main building is a good choice if you want
fok
26
Se

To Gaborone Dam (1km); to be centrally located, though the houses do

Waterfront (1km)
feature full kitchens.
BOTSWANA 90 GABORONE •• Eating Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com GABORONE •• Enter tainment 91

BOTSWANA
Midrange this Las Vegas–inspired resort complex boasts ENTERTAINMENT and Kasane (US$155). The office also serves as
Lolwapa Lodge (% 318 4865; 2873 Mobutu Dr; s/d a mini-city complete with restaurants, bars, a Bull & Bush Pub (%397 5070) This popular res- an agent for other regional airlines.
with shared bathroom US$27/34, s/d US$36/45; pa) casino, cinema and spa. You’ll pay to stay, but taurant is also the centre for expat nightlife. For information about international flights
Although basic and decidedly lacking in it’s the swishest accommodation in town. There’s a good selection of cold beers on tap, to/from Gaborone, see p127.
character, carpeted rooms are clean and well and if the conversation is lacking, you can
furnished. Unfortunately, Lolwapa is on a EATING always turn your attention to the international Bus
noisy road and convenient to nothing except Equatorial Cafe (Riverwalk Mall; mains from US$2) The sports telecasts on satellite TV. Intercity buses and minibuses to Johannes-
the university. best espressos in town are served here, along Keg & Zebra (Riverwalk Mall) This popular bar burg (US$12, seven hours), Francistown
South Ring Lodge (%318 5550; 3487 South Ring with fruit smoothies, falafel and gourmet packs in the crowds for its Sunday-night sing- (US$5, six hours), Selebi-Phikwe (US$6, six
Rd; s/d with shared bathroom US$30/35, s/d US$37/42, suite sandwiches. They even have real bagels. along jam sessions, though there’s fun to be hours), Ghanzi (US$10, 11 hours), Lobatse
US$42/47; pa) Shabby rooms are offset by the King’s Takeaway (The Mall; meals US$2-4) This local had here most nights of the week. (US$1.50, 1½ hours), Mahalapye (US$2.50,
convenient location (right next to the South favourite serves up inexpensive burgers, chips Nightspark (Broadhurst Mall; weekend admission US$2) three hours), Palapye (US$4, four hours) and
Ring Mall). Splurge for the ‘suite’, which is and snacks to hungry office workers. Features all sorts of musical acts and is popu- Serowe (US$4, five hours) depart from the
highlighted by a massive bathtub (a rarity in 25º East (Riverwalk Mall; sushi US$2-4, mains US$5-10) lar with middle-class Batswana youth. main bus terminal. The main bus terminal
these parts). If you can believe it, there is in fact a sushi Waterfront (Gaborone Dam) South of the city, it also offers local services to Kanye (US$1.50,
Planet Lodge (%390 3295; 514 South Ring Rd; s/d restaurant on the edge of the Kalahari. Asian- occasionally hosts live performances. two hours), Jwaneng (US$4, three hours),
from US$36/43; pa) A short walk from the inspired mains are probably a safer bet, though Alliance Française (%395 1650; Pudulogo Way) Fre- Manyana (US$0.80, 1½ hours), Mochudi
city centre brings you to this relaxed lodge, it’s hard to say no to nigiri-zushi. quently screens classic films. (US$1, one hour), Thamaga (US$0.80, one
which offers attractive rooms featuring TVs, o Kgotla Restaurant & Coffee Shop hour) and Molepolole (US$1.25, one hour).
stereos, air-con and fridges. Rooms are priced (Broadhurst Mall; meals US$4-6; hclosed Monday) This SHOPPING To reach Maun or Kasane, you’ll need to
according to size, and kitchen facilities are deservedly popular expat hang out above For shoppers, Gaborone is a series of shopping change in Francistown. Buses operate accord-
available to guests. Woolworth’s is renowned for its hearty break- malls, headed up by the lovely Riverwalk Mall ing to roughly fixed schedules and minibuses
oGaborone Hotel (%362 2777; gabhot@info fasts, vegetarian fare and coffee specialities. and the enormous Kgale Centre. Lesser op- leave when full.
.bw; s/d US$45/60; pa) This large and modern Caffe Prego (Broadhurst Mall; mains US$4-6) This tions include Broadhurst/Kagiso Centre, the The Intercape Mainliner to Johannesburg
complex will never win any awards for beauty, charming little café specialises in healthy Mall and the increasingly seedy Maru-a-Pula (US$25, 6½ hours) runs from the Kudu Shell
but it’s conveniently located next to the bus breakfasts and homemade pastas. (No Mathatha), Nyerere Shopping Centre and petrol station beside The Mall. For more in-
and train stations. The rooms are large, sur- Milano’s Chicken & Pizza (South Ring Mall; mains African Malls. formation, see p128).
prisingly quiet and well furnished with cable US$4-7) This popular chain of Italian restaurants Botswanacraft (www.botswanacraft.bw; Warehouse
TV and air-con. is your top spot for, well, chicken and pizza. %362 4471; The Mall %355 3577; Airport %361 2209) Hitching
There’s also an outlet at Broadhurst Mall. Botswana’s largest craft emporium sells tra- To hitch north, catch the Broadhurst 4 mini-
Top End Maharaja Restaurant (%393 1870; Seboni Rd; mains ditional souvenirs from all over the country, bus from any shopping centre along the main
Cresta President Hotel (%355 3631; www.cresta-hos US$4-8) The ‘stylish’ décor is a bit dated, though including weavings from Oodi and pottery city loop and get off at the standard hitching
pitality.com; The Mall; s/d US$107/133; pas) The the large selection of Indian dishes (including from Gabane and Thamaga. If you’re de- spot at the northern end of town. There’s no
first luxury hotel in the city is located smack- vegetarian options) is perfect if you’re looking ficient at bargaining, fear not – prices are need to wave down a vehicle – anyone with
dab in the middle of the Mall, which pretty for relief from pap and stew. fixed. space will stop for passengers. Plan on around
much justifies the heavy price tag. oBull & Bush Pub (%397 5070; mains US$5- Jewel of Africa (%361 4359; jewel@global.bw; African US$6 to Francistown, where you can look for
Gaborone Sun Hotel & Casino (%355 1111; www 10) This long-standing Gaborone institution Mall) This attractive shop offers an eclectic onward lifts to Nata, Maun and Kasane.
.suninternational.com/resorts/gaborone/; Chuma Dr; standard/ is popular with expats, tourists and locals range of carvings, sketches, shawls and other
luxury d US$115/140; pas) Once known for its alike. There’s something on the menu for assorted African knick-knacks. Although not Train
highbrow atmosphere, the seemingly aban- everyone, but the Bull & Bush is renowned for everything is made in Botswana, prices here The day train departs for Francistown daily
doned Gaborone Sun fails to compete with its thick steaks and cold beers. On any given are reasonable (and fixed). at 10am (club/economy class US$4/8, 6½
its upmarket rivals. Still, it’s not a bad choice, night of the week, the outdoor beer garden is Craft Workshop (%355 6364; 5648 Nakedi Rd, Broad- hours). The night train departs nightly at
especially since guests can take advantage of buzzing with activity, and you can bet there’s hurst Industrial Estate) This small complex of shops 9pm (economy/1st-class sleeper/2nd-class
on-site restaurants, a casino, swimming pool always some sporting event worth watching sells crafts and souvenirs, and also plays host sleeper/US$5/20/25, 8¼ hours). Coming from
and golf course. on the tube. to a flea market on the morning of the last Francistown, the overnight service contin-
Cresta Lodge (%367 5375; www.cresta-hospitality Fishmonger (Riverwalk Mall; mains US$5-10) So long Sunday of each month. To get there take the ues to Lobatse (US$1, 1½ hours) early in the
.com; Samora Machel Dr; s/d US$119/139; pas) as you don’t think about where the nearest ‘Broadhurst Route 3’ combi. morning, with only economy-class seats avail-
Located 2km outside the city centre, the at- ocean is, you’re going to enjoy the fish here. able from Gaborone. For current information,
tractively landscaped Cresta Lodge is a good oTerrace Restaurant (%395 3631; The Mall; GETTING THERE & AWAY contact Botswana Railways (%395 1401).
choice if you’re looking for a quiet night’s mains US$6-10) On the terrace of the Cresta Presi- Air
rest in a three-star setting outside the urban dent Hotel, this eclectic restaurant is a good From Sir Seretse Khama International Airport, GETTING AROUND
sprawl. spot for surveying the passing Mall scene 14km from the centre of town, Air Botswana To/From the Airport
oGrand Palm Hotel Casino Resort (%361 below. The Terrace serves up a variety of (%390 5500; Botswana Insurance Company House, The Mall) Taxis rarely turn up at the airport; if you do
2999; www.grandpalm.bw; Molepolole Rd; d from US$120; dishes including curries, grilled meats, contin- operates scheduled domestic flights to and find one, you’ll pay between US$4 and US$10
pas) Located 5km west of the city centre, ental cuisine and a few local specialities. from Francistown (US$100), Maun (US$155) per person to the centre. The only reliable
BOTSWANA 92 GABORONE •• Around Gaborone lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com E A S T E R N B OT S W A N A • • S e r o w e 93

BOTSWANA
transport between the airport and town is in the hills. In 1871 came the Kgatla people, Minibuses run frequently from the main bus Kanye Gorge, where the entire population of
the courtesy minibuses operated by the top- who had been forced from their lands by terminal in Gaborone (US$1, 1½ hours). the town once hid during a Ndebele raid in
end hotels for their guests. If there’s space, northward-trekking Boers. The Cape Dutch– the 1880s. A short, 1.5km walk along the cliff
nonguests may talk the driver into a lift, but style Phuthadikobo Museum (%577 7238; fax 574 Mt Kgale face from the eastern end of Kanye Gorge
you’ll have to pay about US$8. 8920; admission free, donations suggested; h8am-5pm The ‘sleeping giant’, Mt Kgale, overlooks Gab- will take you to Kanye Ruins, the remains of
Mon-Fri, 2-5pm Sat & Sun), established in 1976, is orone, and you can easily hike to the summit an early 18th-century stone-walled village.
Combis one of Botswana’s best, with displays on the for a sweeping view over the capital. Take any Buses regularly travel between Gaborone and
Packed white combis, recognisable by their village and its Kgatla history. After visiting Lobatse bus or head out along the new Lobatse Kanye via Thamaga (US$1.50, two hours).
blue number plates, circulate according to set the museum, it’s worth spending an hour ap- road to the car park (opposite an obvious sat- The bus station is 1.5km west of the main
routes and cost US$0.50. They pick up and preciating the variety of designs in the town’s ellite dish, just beyond the Kgale Centre Mall). shopping centre.
drop off only at designated lay-bys marked mud-walled architecture. Cross the white concrete stile and follow the
‘bus/taxi stop’. The main city loop passes all Buses to Mochudi depart from Gaborone track through a shallow gully to the trail of
the main shopping centres except the new
Riverwalk Mall and the Kgale Centre, which
when full. By car, head north to Pilane and
turn east; after 6km, turn left at the T-junction
whitewashed stones that lead to the summit.
Due to recent robberies, it’s wise not to walk
EASTERN BOTSWANA
are on the Tlokweng and Kgale routes, re- and then right just before the hospital, into the alone or carry anything of value. Eastern Botswana is largely comprised of
spectively. Combis can be hailed either along historic village centre. granite-strewn scrubland that is amenable
major roads or from the combi stand. Mokolodi Nature Reserve to agriculture and human habitation. Along
Thamaga This 3000 hectare private reserve (%316 1955; the borders with South Africa and Zimbabwe,
Taxi The delightful but unexciting village of www.mokolodi.com; h7.30am-6pm) was established there are a number of large towns that subsist
Taxis, which can also be easily identified by Thamaga is home to the Botswelelo Centre in 1991, and is home to giraffes, elephants, primarily on seasonal farming and ranching.
their blue numberplates, are surprisingly dif- (%499 9220; Molepolole Rd; tours US$0.50; h8am-5pm), zebras, baboons, warthogs, hippos, kudus, Although the majority of these population
ficult to come by in Gabs. Very few cruise the also called Thamaga Pottery. This nonprofit impalas, waterbucks and klipspringers. The centres are of little interest to tourists, the re-
streets looking for fares, and most are parked community project was started by missionar- reserve also protects a few retired cheetahs, gion is also home to a number of private game
either in front of the train station or on Bot- ies in the 1970s and now sells a wide range leopards, honey badgers, jackals and hyenas, as reserves that serve as a refreshing alternative
swana Rd. If you manage to get a hold of one, of creations for good prices. Tours must be well as over 300 different species of birds. Park to the heavily trafficked national parks.
fares (negotiable) are generally US$3 to US$5 booked in advance. Buses run frequently from entry fees are US$2 per person per day and
per trip around the city. the main bus terminal in Gaborone (US$0.80, US$4 per vehicle per day. If you’re not self- SEROWE
one hour). driving, two-hour day or night wildlife drives In 1902, Chief Khama III abandoned the Bang-
AROUND GABORONE cost US$28 per person. There is a number of wato capital in Phalatswe, and built Serowe on
Kopong Molepolole other activities on offer including guided walks the ruins of an 11th-century village at the
Country Horse Safaris (%721 34567; Lentsweletau Rd) The tongue-twisting name of this hillside vil- (US$12), rhino tracking (US$80), cheetah pet- base of Thathaganyana Hill. Serowe was later
is a friendly, Swedish-run ranch specialising lage (pronounced mo-lay-po-lo-lay) is often ting (US$48), horse safaris (US$24) and a visit immortalised by South African writer Bes-
in horse riding, though it also offers cheap sensibly shortened to ‘Moleps’. The main to the popular elephant baths (US$3). sie Head, who included the village in several
and tranquil accommodation. Camping costs attraction, the Kgosi Sechele 1 Museum (%592 Though pricey, the camp sites (2 people US$24) of her works, including renowned Serowe –
US$5 per person, while double rooms with 0917; Gaborone Rd; h9am-noon & 2-4pm Tue-Fri, 11am- at Mokolodi are secluded and well groomed, Village of the Rain Wind.
private bathrooms in the rustic guesthouse 4pm Sat), is housed in the 1902 police station and feature braai (barbecue) pits and thatched Although the modern town centre is drab
costs US$20. Take the road from Gaborone and features traditional housing, paintings, bush showers (with steaming hot water) and and of little interest to travellers, it’s worth
towards Molepolole, then head to Kopong historic photos and David Livingstone mem- toilets. If you want to safari in style, there are visiting the Khama III Memorial Museum (%463
and follow the signs. orabilia. It’s reputed that Chief Sechele was also 3-person chalets (US$120) and 8-person 0519; admission free but donations welcome; h8am-5pm
the only person the missionary Livingstone A-frames (US$198) situated in the middle of the Tue-Fri, 10am-4.30pm Sat), which was opened in
Odi ever managed to convert to Christianity. This reserve. Advance bookings are recommended. 1985 and outlines the history of the Khama
This small village (pronounced Oo-dee) is was accomplished after Livingstone visited If you don’t have a vehicle, staff can drive you family. The museum includes the personal
best known for its internationally acclaimed the Kobokwe Cave (5km from town along to the camp site and accommodation areas for effects of Chief Khama III and his descend-
Odi Weavers (%339 2268; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, the Thamaga road) and survived, despite dire a nominal charge. ants as well as various artefacts illustrating
10am-4.30pm Sat & Sun), which produces and sells warnings from local shamans that to approach The entrance to the reserve is located 12km Serowe’s history. The museum is about 800m
a range of locally made weavings, tapestries, the cave would bring about a speedy death. south of Gaborone. By public transport, take from the central shopping area on the road
bedspreads and cushions. Take a northbound You may also want to visit the Schacter & a bus to Lobatse-bound combi to the signed towards Orapa.
minibus from Gaborone and get off at Odi Namder Diamond Factory (%592 0815; Thamaga Rd), turn-off. From there, it’s a 1.5km walk to the Before leaving town, hike up to the top
Junction; from here, you’ll probably have to which is Botswana’s only diamond-cutting entrance. You can also phone ahead for trans- of Thathaganyana Hill where you’ll find the
hitch the final 7km to the workshop. facility. fers from the city centre/airport (US$28/44 Royal Cemetery, which contains the grave of Sir
Mafenya-Thala Hotel (%595 0522; ciaron@mega.bw; for four people). Seretse Khama (see the boxed text, p83) and
Mochudi Gaborone Rd; s/d US$37/48) offers comfortable and Khama III; the latter is marked by a bronze
Mochudi, one of Botswana’s most fascinating well-decorated rooms. Camping is also spo- Kanye duiker (a small antelope), which is the Bang-
villages, was first settled by the Kwena in the radically possible and the attached restaurant Built around the base of Kanye Hill, the capi- wato totem. Be advised that police consider
mid-1500s, as evidenced by ruined stone walls serves up classy meals. tal of the Bangwaketse people is home to the this area to be sensitive, so visitors need to
ὄὄ
BOTSWANA 94 E A S T E R N B OT S W A N A • • K h a m a R h i n o S a n c t u a r y lonelyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com E A S T E R N B OT S W A N A • • F r a n c i s t o w n 95

BOTSWANA
EASTERN BOTSWANA 0
0
80 km
50 miles
ary protects the country’s last remaining Ebrahim Store (%241 4762; Francis Ave) The place to
To Nata (47km); To Bulawayo To Bulawayo population of rhinos – thirty-two white and buy camping gear.
A
Kasane (377km); Tutume (39km) (48km)
9 one black rhino currently reside in Khama. Nyangabgwe Hospital (%241 1000, emergency

Shas
Maun (391km); Plumtree
Dukwe

Chav
Tim

Insiza
Victoria Falls (449km) Ramokgwebana
an Mw The sanctuary is also home to zebras, gir- %997)

hani
da

ezi Rv
en
affes, wildebeests, impalas, kudus, elands, Police (%241 2221, emergency %999; Haskins St)

ezi
Mosetse ezi

River
Riv
Riv

Ri

Rive
er ostriches, hyenas, leopards and over 230 Polina Laundromat (Blue Jacket St)

Ingw

ve

er
A

r
7

r
Ingwizi Gwanda
species of birds. Post office (Blue Jacket St)
Dam
The main roads within the sanctuary are

Ὀ ὈὈ
Ὀ
To Orapa
(99km) normally accessible by 2WD in the dry sea- Sights

Ta
Francistown ZIMBABWE Bu
bia

li
Shashe
See Makgadikgadi & na son, though 4WD vehicles are necessary in The main site of tourist interest is the cultural

Rive
Dam Ta Madzilobge Ri

Umz
Nxai Pans National
ti ve

Sim
Tlalamabele Parks Map (p98) r the rainy season. However, all vehicles can and historical Supa-Ngwao Museum (%/fax 240

r
R
Shashe iver

ingw
uk
A
Tonotha reach the camp site and accommodation areas 3088; snm@info.bw; off New Maun Rd; admission free but

we
6

ani
River
Motloutse
To Letlhakane (88km);
in any weather. The office at the entrance donations suggested; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat).

Ri
Foley Sha
sells useful maps of the sanctuary as well as It’s housed in a 100-year-old Government

ver
Orapa (117km) she
River

ὈὈ
Lepokole
Mo tloutse River
Hills
Gubajango LEGEND basic nonperishable foods, cold drinks and Camp, which includes a prison and a police
Mmashoro Serule
Bobonong
Mashatu Tuli Circle
Game
GR Game Reserve
NR Nature Reserve
firewood. canteen. Displays include local and regional
Mmadinare Selebi-Phikwe
Thu
Reserve
Molalatau
Park entry fees are US$2 per person per culture and history, as well as visiting art
North-East Tuli GR
Mabeleapudi Sefophe
ne
River Matlhabaneng Pont Drift L
impopo River day and US$3 per vehicle per day. If you’re exhibitions.
Khama
Rhino
Paje Mogapi
Mathathane Soloman's Wall &
Beitbridge
not self-driving, two-hour day/night wildlife
Lentswe le Muriti Motloutse Ruins
Sanctuary
Mogorosi
Serowe
Mawana
NR Limpopo River
Messina
drives cost US$55/80, and can accommodate Sleeping
Mogapinyana Tsetsebjwe Lodge
Tlhabala
Morupule
ck Saambou Platjanbridge
up to four people. Nature walks (US$8 per Marang Hotel (%241 3991; marang@info.bw; Matsiloje
Lotsan Blo
Moijabana Palapye
Tswapong
eR
i Tu
li Baines
Drift
person) and rhino tracking (US$20 per adult) Rd; camping per person US$5, 2-person rondavel US$40, s/d
ve

Maunatlala Zanzibar
can also be arranged. US$80/95; ps) Superbly situated on the banks
r

Mosolotsane Hills Alldays r

ive
k R
Shoshong
Bra Shady camp sites (per person US$9) with braai of the Tati River, the Marang Hotel is a long-
Hills Kalamare Tewane Sherwood pits are adjacent to clean toilets and steaming standing favourite among travellers. The serene
Shoshong Lose Sefare Martin's Drift hot showers. If you’re looking to splurge for a setting and relaxed ambience make this an
Mahalapye Groblersbrug
Makhado
night or two, rustic 4-person chalets (US$50) and excellent choice, regardless of your budget.
Shakwe Machaneng (Louis Trichardt) 6-person A-frames (US$85) have basic kitchen From the Cresta Thapama roundabout, Marang
Sand River

Dinokwe
Makwate
Parr's Halt
facilities and private bathrooms. If you don’t Hotel is about 3.5km along Matsiloje Rd.
Mogol Riv

er
have a vehicle, staff can drive you to the camp Tati River Lodge (%240 6000; trl@info.bw; camping
Dovedale Riv
Mmamabula
op
o N
1 site and accommodation areas for a nominal per person US$5, s/d from US$70/85; ps) On the
N
charge. other side of the Tati River from the Marang
mp

er

11
Li

Ellisras
r Buffels Drift
Dibete
Ri
ve SOUTH AFRICA The entrance gate to the sanctuary is about Hotel, this newer place lacks the character
Ma

an 26km from Serowe on the road to Orapa (turn of its rival, though it’s perfectly acceptable if
e

Polokwane
tla

o tw (Pietersburg)
ba

River left at the unsigned T-junction about 5km you’re just looking for a place to crash.
Ng

Artesia
northwest of Serowe). Khama is accessible by Satellite Guest House (%241 4665; s/d US$28/36;
To Gaborone (106km) any bus or combi heading towards Orapa, and p) This walled compound of motel-style
is not hard to reach by hitching (see p131 for units is uninspiring, though it’s certainly
seek permission (and possibly obtain a guide) north of Palapye, and catch a shared taxi or information on hithing in Botswana). cheap if you’re counting every pula. Unfor-
from the police station in the barracks house. combi to Serowe. Combis and shared taxis tunately, it’s located out in the suburbs, and
To reach the station, follow the road opposite also depart for Orapa (US$7, 4 hours) when FRANCISTOWN can get noisy if there are a lot of guests.
the Dennis petrol station until you reach the full (this combi passes by the entrance to pop 95,000 Grand Lodge (%241 2300; s/d US$35/40; pa)
kgotla and the surrounding barracks; one of the Khama Rhino Sanctuary). Most buses, Although the second-largest city in Botswana This is an excellent choice if you want to stay
the buildings houses the police station. combis and taxis leave from a spot near Eller- is known primarily for its wholesale shopping, in the city centre. Standard rooms become
The small but quaint Tshwaragano Hotel ines furniture shop in the central shopping it’s a useful (and often necessary) stopover something special when you add air-con,
(%463 0377; s/d US$26/30; p) is built on the area, while the mammoth bus station nearby on the way to/from Kasane, Nata, Maun or cable TV, a fridge and a hotplate.
slopes of Thathaganyana Hill, and boasts remains empty. Victoria Falls. Cresta Thapama Lodge (%241 3872; www.cresta
greats views of the town. The attached bar- -hospitality.com; Thapama roundabout, cnr Blue Jacket St
restaurant is usually the most hopping place KHAMA RHINO SANCTUARY Information & Doc Morgan Ave; s/d with breakfast from US$132/166;
in town. Tshwaragano is located above the In response to declining rhinoceros popula- The Barclays and First National Banks along pas)Francistown’s most upmarket hotel
shopping area on the road to Orapa. tions in Botswana, the residents of Serowe Blue Jacket St, among other banks, have ATMs boasts a 4-star rating, though the overall ambi-
Buses travel between Serowe and Gaborone banded together in 1989 to establish the and foreign exchange facilities. ence is bit stuffy. But, if you’re fan of luxury
(US$4, four hours) about every hour. Alterna- 4300-hectare Khama Rhino Sanctuary (%463 Copy Shop (%241 0177; Northgate Centre, Blue Jacket and formality, you’ll revel in the colonial-
tively, from Gabs catch a Francistown-bound 0713; fax 463 5808; krst@botsnet.bw; per person US$2, per St; per hr US$2; h8am-8pm) For internet and email inspired rooms, and unwind in the casino or
bus, disembark at the turn-off to Serowe just vehicle US$3; h8am-6.30pm). Today, the sanctu- access. on the squash and tennis courts.
BOTSWANA 96 E A S T E R N B OT S W A N A • • F r a n c i s t o w n lonelyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com MA K G A D I K G A D I PA N S 97

BOTSWANA
FRANCISTOWN 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
Marang Hotel (Old Gaborone Rd) Even if you’re per person from US$48; p) This lovely riverside
To Bulawayo
not staying here, it’s worth the trip to the retreat is the most affordable accommoda-
A B C (184km) D Marang for a drink in their popular garden tion option in Tuli Block, though the wildlife
INFORMATION bar overlooking the Tati River. along the river can be as rich as anywhere
New Barclays Bank...........................1 B3
7
Ma
un Copy Shop...........................(see 18)
else. The lodge is located 12km northeast of
1
Rd
Ebrahim Store..........................2 C3 Getting There & Away Baines Drift.
First National Bank...................3 C3
Nyangabgwe Hospital.............4 D4
Air Botswana (%241 2393; Francis Ave) flies between Tuli Game Reserve (%264 5303; www.tulilodge.com;
Police.......................................5 C2 Francistown and Gaborone (US$100) at least tent camp per person with full board & game drives US$57,
Polina Laundromat...................6 B2
once daily, except Sunday. standard/executive/luxury per person with full board & game
From the main bus terminal, between the drives US$210/255/299; pas) The Tuli Game

St
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

s
5

in
Supa-Ngwao Museum..............7 B1
train line and the Blue Jacket Plaza, bus and Reserve is situated in a riverine oasis, and sur-

sk
Ha
SLEEPING minibus services connect Francistown with rounded by red rock country that teems with
ve Cresta Thapama Lodge &
t A Nata (US$3, two hours), Maun (US$7.50, wildlife. Advance reservations are strongly
Firs Casino.................................8 C4

Rut
Rd Grand Lodge............................9 B2 five hours), Gaborone (US$6.50, six hours), recommended. Rates include transfer from
un

herf
Ma
2 New Serowe (US$3, 2½ hours), Selebi-Phikwe the Limpopo Valley Airfield or the Pont Drift

ord
Mo
EATING
Ave

Feit

ffat
us Barbara's Bistro......................10 D4 (US$2, two hours) and Bulawayo, Zimbabwe Border Post. The game reserve is located just

St
6 Selo

elb
Kha
To Nata (179km); Fruit & Vegetable Market.......11 B2

St
erg
Maun (490km) (US$2.80 to US$3.50, two hours). beyond the Pont Drift Border Post.
Blue

ma
9 Pizza House...........................12 C3
St
es

St
Shoprite Supermarket..........(see 17)
Bain Ave The overnight train to Gaborone (US$24/ Mashatu Game Reserve (%27-11 442 2267; www
Jack

St
Sam
Gem

ula
Ma

Spar Supermarket..................13 C3
Sain

eng
et S

Lob 20/5 1st/2nd/economy, 8¼ hours) leaves at .mashatu.com; luxury tent/chalet with full board & game drives
Has
Nujo
ka

11 Tina's Coffee Shop................14 C3

s bok

tP
dik

t
kin

Whistle Stop..........................15 C3
9pm and the day train (US$7/3.50 club/econ- US$180/300; pas) The largest private wild-
atric
ma
Ta

gad

1 ve
St

s S

is A
ti

c
St

Train Fran
i

omy, 6½ hours) leaves at 10am. life reserve in Southern Africa is renowned for
St

Station ENTERTAINMENT
St

19 Ave Cine 2000..............................16 C3

cis its big cats and frighteningly large elephant
River

Fran 16
15
3 SHOPPING
Blue Jacket Plaza....................17 C4
NORTH-EAST TULI GAME RESERVE population (current estimates are well over
3 14 Ave The Tuli Block is a 10km- to 20km-wide a thousand). The main camp is one of Bot-
ton Northgate Centre...................18 C3
Footbridge Tain 18 St
13 Guy swathe of freehold farmland extending over swana’s most exclusive resorts, though those
2
TRANSPORT
12
Air Botswana..........................19 B3 300km along the northern bank of the Lim- with lighter wallets can still indulge in luxury
To Nata (178km);
Maun (490km)
Bus Terminal..........................20 C3 popo River. Once owned by British South at the tent camp. Rates include transfer from
20
Africa Company (BSAC), the land was ceded the Limpopo Valley Airfield or the Pont Drift
Gem
mel
St 17
10 to white settlers after the railway route was Border Post. The game reserve is located just
shifted to the northwest. However, much of the beyond the Pont Drift Border Post.
Doc M
organ
Ave 8
land proved to be unsuitable for agriculture,
and has since been developed for tourism. Getting There & Away
4 Matsiloje The main attraction of Tuli Block is the Mashatu and Tuli support a scheduled Air
Rd
4 North-East Tuli Game Reserve, which is a Botswana flight between Johannesburg, Kas-
To Satellite Guest collection of private game reserves. This area ane and the Limpopo Valley Airfield, which
House (2km); Marang
To Gaborone Hotel (4.5km); Tati is rich in wildlife, and is home to elephants, is usually booked as part of a package with
River Lodge (5km)
(425km)
hippos, kudus, wildebeests and impalas as either of the reserves.
well as small numbers of lions, cheetahs and Most roads in Tuli Block are negotiable by
Eating they also serve a good variety of grilled meats, leopards. More than 350 species of birds have 2WD, though it can get rough in places over
Self-caterers have a choice of several well- fish, burgers and desserts. also been recorded in the North-East Tuli creek beds, which occasionally flood during
stocked supermarkets (including Shoprite Pizza House (Haskins St; pizzas from US$4) If you’re get- Game Reserve. the rainy season. If you’re coming from South
and Spar Supermarkets), as well as the fruit ting ready to head out to the wilds, savour every The landscape in Tuli Block is defined by Africa, note that the border crossing at Pont
and vegetable market on the corner of Blue last bite of the wood-fired pizzas served here. its unusual rock formations. The most famous Drift usually requires a 4WD, and can even
Jacket and Baines Sts. feature is Solomon’s Wall, a 30m-high doler- be closed when the river is too high.
Barbara’s Bistro (Francistown Sports Club; US$2-4) Entertainment ite dyke cut naturally through the landscape
This quaint, leafy spot is a good choice for To find out what’s going on, check the notice on either side of the river bed. Nearby are
inexpensive local specialities.
Tina’s Coffee Shop (Blue Jacket St; meals US$2-5)
board at the museum and the ‘What’s On’
column in the Northern Advertiser.
the Motloutse Ruins, a Great Zimbabwe–era
stone village that belonged to the kingdom
MAKGADIKGADI PANS
Whether you’re here for a cuppa with cake Cine 2000 (Blue Jacket St; US$2) If you need your of Mwene Mutapa. The Sowa (Sua), Nxai and Ntwetwe Pans col-
or a heavy plate of chicken and rice, you’ll Western-culture fix, this small cinema shows lectively make up the 12,000 sq km Makgadik-
enjoy the cosy atmosphere at this popular recent English-language films. Sleeping gadi Pans. In the sizzling heat of late winter, the
local shop. Cresta Thapama Hotel & Casino (Blue Jacket St) Advance bookings are recommended for all stark pans take on a disorienting and ethereal
Whistle Stop (Blue Jacket St; mains US$2-5) Start The bar here attracts mostly business travel- of these options. austerity. Heat mirages destroy the senses as
your day right with a hearty breakfast from lers, though there’s a good selection of hard Limpopo River Lodge (%72-106098; www.limpopo imaginary lakes shimmer and disappear, os-
the Whistle Stop. If you’re not an early riser, spirits here. riverlodge.co.za; camping per person US$12, chalet/rondavel triches take flight and stones turn to mountains
 BOTSWANA 98 MA K G A D I K G A D I PA N S • • M a k g a d i k g a d i & N x a i Pa n s N a t i o n a l Pa r k s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com MA K G A D I K G A D I PA N S • • N a t a 99

BOTSWANA
(141km)
To Francistown

ὈὈὈὄ
ὄ
ὈὈὈ
ὄὄ
ὈὈὈ
ὄὄ
20 miles

Around Nxai Pan

6 miles
10 km
EXPLORING THE MAKGADIKGADI PANS
Game Reserve
National Park

13.5km
ce on

circuit
30 km

Fen ry Cord

Eastern Pan
Complex
a
erin
Vet It is important to stress that to explore the pans properly and independently requires more of
Chaichumtsha

km
a 4WD expedition than a casual drive. Lost travellers are frequently rescued from the pans, and

Kgama-
Kgama Pan

4.1km Distance

8.3
Interval
9.6km

River
there have been a number of fatalities over the years. Prospective drivers should keep in mind
F

Semowane
GR
NP

that salt pans can have a mesmerising effect, and even create a sense of unfettered freedom.
Didibakwe
km

Dukwe
4.7
Once you drive out onto the salt, remember that direction, connection, reason and common

Khalaphuduhudu

Tlalamabele
ὄὄὄ
ὄὄὄὈ
Ὀ
ὄὄ
ὄὄὄ
ὄὄ
ὄ
ὄ
ὄὄὄ
ὄὄὄ
ὄὄ
km
Xhongwane
River

1 .6 sense appear to dissolve. You should be aware of where you are at all times by using a map and

km
10

Lepash

8.4
8
compass (remember, GPS units are not foolproof ).
7
To Kasane

Tsiagake
(287km)

Sanctuary
Nata

5.5km 0
0
Nata

km
Old Cattle Trek Route
Kwadiba
It’s often safer (and sometimes cheaper in the long run) to explore the pans on an organised

10
to Pandamatenga

Hole
Bore
6.4
5.8km
0
0

tour with a knowledgeable guide. The pans can be visited on day trips or overnight trips offered

13
Baobab
Nata

Tree

1.5km
km
3.2 by the lodges listed in this region, or on an overnight trip from lodges in Maun (p109).
North Gate Restaurant

Baobab 12.6km
3.5km
Nata Delta

Headquarters

Observation
Point
Sowa (Sua)

4.1km

Nxai
Pan
Sowa (Sua) Pan

Park
ὄὄὄὄὄ
ὄὄὄὄὄ
ὄὄὄὄὄ
ὄὄ
ὄὄὄὄὄ
ὈὈὄὄὄὄὄὄ
ὄὄὄ
ὄὄὄ
Sowa (Sua)
E

9.1km

Tree
and float in mid-air. But, as the annual rains formed when the Nata River flows into the
Spit

Mosu
m
begin to fall in the late spring, depressions in northern end of the Sowa Pan. When the

5k
Thabatshukudu
Zoroga

the pans form temporary lakes and fringing rains are at their heaviest from December to
Tsigara

Tshwagong
grasses turn green with life. Herd animals ar- February, the pan is covered with a thin film

To Francistown
(203km)

Paephane
rive to partake of the bounty, while water birds of water that reflects the sky and obliterates

(Closed Town)
Ntsokotsa
Kubu Island
flock to feed on algae and tiny crustaceans. the horizon. Access is via a 4WD track from
5

Letlhakane
Pan
ὄ
ὄ
ὄ Mmatshumo
the village of Nata.

Tshitsane
Pan
NATA
Veterinary
Checkpoint

Checkpoint
Veterinary
Xarathiwa
Bojatau

The dust-bowl town of Nata serves as the gate- Nata Sanctuary

Pan

Orapa (Closed Town)

D

To Serowe
(178km)
way to the Makgadikgadi Pans, as well as an ob- This 230 sq km community-run wildlife sanctu-
Nkokwane
Pan ligatory fuel stop if you’re heading to Kasane or ary (%71-656969; admission per person per day US$4, per
Ntwetwe
Pan

Guquago
Maun. Be aware that elephants graze alongside vehicle US$2; h7am-7pm) was proposed in 1988
Odiakwe
ὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὄὄ
ὄ
ὄ
ὄὄ
Pan
the highway in this region, so take care during by the Nata Conservation Committee, and
Chapman's
11
Tshauxaba

Baobab
Gweta
Aardvark

the day and avoid driving at night. established four years later with the help of
Baobab
Planet

Maditsenyane

10km southeast of Nata is the Nata Lodge several local and international nongovern-
Green's
Baobab

Gabatsadi

(%621 1210; www.natalodge.com; camping per per- mental organisations (NGOs).

MAKGADIKGADI & NXAI PAN NATIONAL PARK

Island

Njare
Maano Restaurant

Rhysana

Pan
Gutsa
Pan

Chukutsa son US$10, d luxury tent US$105, d chalet US$120; s) a Nata Sanctuary offers several serene and
Pan
12

Pan
verdant oasis of monkey thorn, marula and isolated camp sites with clean pit toilets, braai
C

e
n Fenc
ὄὄ
ὄὄὄ
ὄ
ὄ
ὄ
ὄ ary C
ordo
Veterin
mokolane palms. Luxury tents and chalets are
safari chic, and the open-air bar-restaurant
pits and cold showers. Camping here costs
US$5 per person, and all sites are accessible
Sokoro Katsha

Mopipi
Park Headquarters

and shady pool are perfect for unwinding after by 2WD if it hasn’t been raining heavily. From
Pan
See Inset

Gate
Park

touring the nearby pans. the camp sites, it’s possible to access the pan
Mopipi
9
Kudiakam

Dam

Hourly combis (minibuses) between Kas- on foot (7km), though you should bring a
Tamtiga
Makgadikgadi
Pan

Pans Game Reserve

Nxai Pan

to Makgadikgadi

ane (US$7.50, five hours) and Francistown compass with you, even if you’re only walking
2

Main Entrance

Pans GR

Lake Xau
NP

Phorokwe

(Dry)

(US$3, two hours), and Maun (US$5.50, five a few hundred metres into the pan.
Kaokare
ὄ
ὄ
Dzibui
Pan

hours) and Francistown (US$2, two hours), The entrance to the sanctuary is located
Nxai
Pan

pass by the North Gate Restaurant. 7km southeast of Nata.

Nxai Pan National Park)

Toromoja

Tswanatsha
Khumaga
(Main Entrance to
Makolwane Gate
B

Xorodomo
Pan
Morotobolo
Khumaga
Gate

SOWA (SUA) PAN Sowa (Sua) Spit

4

Sowa (also spelt Sua) Pan is mostly a single This long, slender protrusion extends into the
Rakops
6

sheet of salt-encrusted mud stretching across heart of the pan, and is the nexus of Botswana’s
Mabe Pan

Gidikwe
D3

D1
C2

C2

C2
2 B1

B2

B2
Entrance to Nata Sanctuary.......1 F1

F1
F2

E4

E4

ὈὈ
ὈὈὄ
the lowest basin in northeastern Botswana. lucrative soda ash industry. Although security
Mosemaoto

Gidikwe
Dikwalo
Nxwee

Tsoe 3
Khumaga Camp Site.................4
Kubu Island Camp Site.............5
Leroo-La-Tau...........................6
Nata Lodge...............................7
Nata Sanctuary Camp Site........8
Njuca Hills Camp Site...............9
North Camp...........................10
Planet Baobab........................11
San Camp..............................12
South Camp...........................13
Baines' Baobabs........................

Pan
Jack's Camp.............................
Matima

Xumo

Sowa means ‘salt’ in the language of the San, measures prevent public access to the plant,
Molosi

who once mined the pan to sell salt to the private vehicles can proceed as far as Sowa (Sua)
Senagom

Mabe
Matswere
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Bakalanga. Today, it is mined by the Sua Pan village on the pan’s edge. Views of the pan from
Gate
er
Riv

Soda Ash Company, which sells sodium car- the village are limited, though it’s ideal if you’re
INFORMATION
ti

Kalahari
To Maun (82km)

Bote

Makalamabedi

Central

bonate for industrial manufacturing. travelling through the area in a 2WD.

A

GR
SLEEPING
Motopi

Nata Delta Kubu Island

During the rainy season, huge flocks of water Along the southwestern edge of Sowa Pan
2

3
1

birds congregate at the Nata Delta, which is is this ghostly, baobab-laden rock, which
BOTSWANA 100 MA K G A D I K G A D I PA N S • • G w e t a lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com C H O B E N AT I O N A L PA R K • • K a s a n e & K a z u n g u l a 101

BOTSWANA
is entirely surrounded by a sea of salt. In Dam, which provides water for the diamond less developed with pit latrines and no run- 60km west of Gweta. The Park Headquarters
Setswana, kubu means ‘hippopotamus’, and mines in Orapa. Ironically, Ntwetwe is now ning water, but the surrounding hills boast is another 35.5km north along a terrible sandy
as unlikely as it may seem given the current famous for its extraordinary lunar landscape, staggering views of migrating wildlife. track. A 4WD is required to get around the
environment and climate, this desolate area particularly the rocky outcrops, dunes, islets, Leroo-La-Tau (%686 8407; www.kalahari-desert national park.
may have been inhabited by people as recently channels and spits found along the western .com/Leroo_La_Tau_Bush_Camp_Kalahari_desert.asp;
as 500 years ago. On one shore lies an ancient shore. s/d US$200/275; ps) This recommended sa-
crescent-shaped stone wall of unknown origin,
which has yielded numerous artefacts. Kubu
If you’ve got some serious cash to burn, the
highly recommended San Camp (s/d US$500/840;
fari lodge is comprised of several East Afri-
can–style canvas tents with private verandas
CHOBE NATIONAL PARK
Island is now protected as a national monu- p) and Jack’s Camp (s/d US$625/930) are among overlooking the Boteti River bed. Although Chobe National Park, which encompasses
ment (admission per person US$4.50, per vehicle US$5.50) the most luxurious lodges in the whole of the atmosphere is luxurious and the price is 11,000 sq km, is home to Botswana’s most
with proceeds going to the local community. Africa. Accommodation at either camp is in affordable (at least compared to other top-end varied wildlife. The riverfront strip along the
There is also a small camp site (%297 9612; per classic 1940s East African–style canvas tents lodges), Leroo-La-Tau is not as well known as northern tier, with its perennial water supply,
person US$5.50) with pit toilets, though you will furnished with regal linen and romantically lit other luxury lodges in Botswana. However, supports the greatest wildlife concentrations,
have to carry in your own water. by paraffin lanterns. The central ‘mess tent’ wildlife viewing in the surrounding reserve but when they contain water, the lovely Savuti
Access to Kubu Island (GPS coordinates: operates as a field museum where local guides is an awesome spectacle, and readers consist- Marshes of the Mababe Depression in western
S20°53’740 & E25°49’426) involves negotiat- and world-renowned experts deliver lectures ently rave about the spotless rooms, wonderful Chobe also provide prime wildlife habitat
ing a maze of grassy islets and salty bays. and lead discussions on the area’s flora and facilities and professional service. Rates in- and attract myriad water birds. Rarely visited
Increased traffic has now made the route con- fauna. Rates include full board, wildlife drives, clude full board, game drives, bush walks and Ngwezumba River, with its pans and mopane
siderably more obvious, but drivers still need a bush walks and a range of activities. Air fares a range of activities. Transfers from Maun cost forests, is the park’s third major region, and
4WD and a compass or GPS equipment cost US$150 per person one way from Maun. US$100 per vehicle (with six passengers). Chobe’s northwestern corner just touches the
Road transfer from Gweta costs US$110 per The main entrance to the national park is beautiful Linyanti Marshes.
GWETA person one way, and escorts (with your own 141km west of Nata and 164km east of Maun. The northern park entrance lies imme-
The dusty town of Gweta serves as another gate- 4WD) from Gweta cost US$165 per vehicle. Another gate is located at Khumaga to the diately west of Kasane and is accessible to
way to the Makgadikgadi Pans, and stop here west. A 4WD is needed to drive around the conventional vehicles. However, to proceed
for fuel if you’re heading to either Kasane or MAKGADIKGADI & NXAI PAN park, though the camp sites and lodge are through the park or approach from Maun,
Maun. The name of the village is derived from NATIONAL PARK accessible by 2WD. you need a high-clearance 4WD. Due to mud
the croaking sound made by large bullfrogs, West of Gweta, the main road between Nata and flooding, Savuti may be inaccessible from
which incredibly bury themselves in the sand and Maun slices through Makgadikgadi Re- Nxai Pan National Park January to March.
until the rains provide sufficient water for them serve and Nxai Pan National Park, which This 2578 sq km park lies on the old Panda-
to emerge and mate. protects large tracts of salt pans, palm forests, matenga Trail, which connected a series of KASANE & KAZUNGULA
About 4km east of Gweta, you’ll see a huge grasslands and savannas. Since both parks boreholes and was used until the 1960s for Kasane sits in a riverine woodland at the meet-
concrete aardvark (no, you’re not hallucinat- compliment one another in enabling wildlife overland cattle drives. The grassy expanse of ing of four countries – Botswana, Zambia,
ing) that marks the turn-off for Planet Baobab migrations, Makgadikgadi Pans Game Reserve the park is most interesting during the rains Namibia and Zimbabwe – and the confluence
(%72-338-344, camping per person US$8, s/d grass huts with and Nxai Pan National Park were established when large animal herds migrate from the of the Chobe and Zambezi Rivers. It’s also
shared bathroom US$34/52, s/d mud huts US$75/100; ps), concurrently in the early 1970s, and combined south, and predators arrive to take advantage the gateway to Chobe National Park and, as
one of the most bizarre lodges in the country. into a single park in the mid 1990s. of the bounty. The region is speckled with um- such, this town of just a few thousand people
Campers can pitch a tent beneath the shade brella acacias, and resembles the Serengeti in is a focus of activity in northern Botswana.
of a baobab tree while others can choose be- Makgadikgadi Pans Game Reserve Tanzania (but without all the safari vehicles). Immediately to the east, the tiny settlement
tween Bakalanga-style ‘mud huts’ or San-style This 3900 sq km park extends from the Boteti In the south of the park are the fa- of Kazungula serves as the border crossing
‘grass huts’ (both are much plusher than they River in the west to the Ntwetwe Pan in the mous Baines’ Baobabs (GPS: S:20°06’726 & between Botswana and Zimbabwe, and the
sound). The highlight of the lodge, however, is east. Although the Boteti River only flows E24°46’136), which were immortalised in landing for the Kazungula ferry, which con-
the funky open-air bar, complete with vaulted after good rains, wildlife congregates along paintings by the artist and adventurer Tho- nects Botswana with Zambia.
wooden ceilings, cowhide barstools, beer-bottle the river during the dry season when the flow mas Baines in 1862. Today, a comparison with
chandeliers and framed memorabilia celebrat- is reduced to a series of shallow pools, which Baines’ paintings reveals that in almost 150 Information
ing the glory days of African travel. are the only source of permanent water in the years, only one branch has broken off. EMERGENCY
Hourly combis travelling between Kas- reserve. During years of average to low rain- The DWNP runs two camp sites in the Chobe Private Clinic (%625 1555; President Ave)
ane (US$6.50, four hours) and Francistown fall, the Boteti experiences one of Southern reserve. South Camp (GPS: S:19°56’159 & 24-hour emergency service.
(US$4, three hours), and Maun (US$4.50, four Africa’s most spectacular wildebeest and zebra E24°46’598) is located about 1.5km east of the Kasane Hospital (%625 0333; President Ave) Public
hours) and Francistown (US$3, three hours), migrations between May and October. Park Headquarters, while North Camp (GPS: hospital on the main road.
pass by the Maano Restaurant. The DWNP runs two camp sites in the S:19°52’797 & E24°47’358) is 6.5km north of Police (%625 0335) Along the main road.
reserve. The Khumaga Camp Site (GPS: the Park Headquarters. Both have sit-down
NTWETWE PAN S:20°27’350 & E24°46’136) is well developed flush toilets, running (nondrinkable) water INTERNET ACCESS
Although the Ntwetwe Pan was once fed by with sit-down flush toilets, cold showers and and braai pits (though firewood is scarce). Kasane Internet (%625 0736; Audi Centre; per hr
the Boteti River, it was left permanently dry running water (nondrinkable). The Njuca Hills The entrance to the park is at Makolwane US$4; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat) Internet in
following the construction of the Mopipi Camp Site (GPS: S:20°25’807 & E24°52’395) is Gate, which is about 140km east of Maun and Kasane is dead slow and unreliable.
 BOTSWANA 102 C H O B E N AT I O N A L PA R K lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com C H O B E N AT I O N A L PA R K • • W i l d D r i v i n g i n B o t s w a n a 103

BOTSWANA
(32km)
To Victoria Falls
ZAMBIA

To Pandamatenga
40 km

(50km); Nata (262km)

ὈὈ
ὈὈ
ὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈ
WILD DRIVING IN BOTSWANA

ZIMBABWE
20 miles

Although there is an extensive network of both sealed and gravel roads throughout Botswana,

Kazuma
River

the thrill and adventure of bush driving is unequalled. Not surprisingly, Botswana is among the

FR
favourite destinations of veteran off-road enthusiasts. However, just because you’ve read a sur-
F

vival manual doesn’t mean that you’re ready to head out into the wilds – 4x4 driving is serious
Kazungula Map (p104)

business, and tourists have died in the past due to careless mistakes. Remember, real (and safe)
i
ὈὈὈὈὈ bez

ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὄ
ὄὄ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈ
am

4x4 driving is nothing like what you see on the TV.

Kazungula Z

See Kasane &

Extension The following is a list of road-tested tips to help you plan a safe and successful 4WD
Matinos

Kasane
Kasane

FR

expedition:
Pan
Natanga Kasane
FR

„ Although a good map and a compass may be sufficient for navigating in your own country, it
Tambiko Pan
0
0

Maikaelelo
Nogatsaa Pan
2

Gokoni Pool
is strongly advisable to invest in a good global positioning system (GPS) before travelling in

Chuma Pan

Tshikando
FR
Tchinga Pan
Pan

Southern Africa. Although GPS units are not a substitute for a map and a compass, they are

Pans
iver Nogatsaa/
ὄ
ὄ
ὄ
ὄ
Poha Pool
Tchinga
E

useful for establishing waypoints and helping you determine which direction you’re heading.
Northern Gate &
DWNP Office

Area
Chobe Transit Route
3

As a general rule, you should always be able to identify your location on a map, even if you’re
navigating with a GPS unit.
pi Makumba
Pan
er
Riv

Nyomuga

a n n el
Tutlha Pan
u R

„ As a general rule, stock up on emergency provisions, even if you are going to be sticking
er Namuchira
Pan

Chinamba
Pans
e

of

Hills
hob

to the main highways. The distances between towns can be extreme, and you never know

Ch
ph

Gokori Zoma
C

a
Muchenje

where you’re going to break down (and when someone is going to pick you up). Petrol and
w

Pan

po

Potopoto
ὈὈ
ὈὈ
ὈὈ
ὄ
ὄὄ
ὄ
ὄ
ola
diesel tend to be available in most major towns, though it’s wise to never pass a station
Mabele

M
Riv

l
Matabanelo

ne
Ngoma Bridge

Kavimba
1

an
Pool

without filling up. If you’re planning a long expedition in the bush, carry the requisite amount
Ch
Komane
Namuchira Pan

er
Kachikabwe
ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ Riv
of fuel in metal jerry cans, and remember that engaging 4WD burns nearly twice as much
Seriba

bi
Pan

Chobe NP
m
D

Ghau tu
a
ha
b
s fuel as highway driving. In terms of water and food, a good rule is to carry five litres of water
Bietsha

Ka
Chobe FR

per person per day, as well as a good supply of high-calorie, nonperishable emergency food
Pan
ba
Nunga
To Katima Mulilo

ezum
Tiyendazi Pan

Makapa
NgwRiver

items.
Wei
Pan
(70km)

Kachikau

Pan
ὄ Satau

ὄ
ὄ „ In terms of spare parts, garages throughout Botswana are surprisingly well stocked with basic
Kataba
Parakarungu
Ivuvwe

4WD parts, and you haven’t truly experienced Southern Africa until you’ve seen the ingenu-
Gcagcuaka
Pan
Zweizwei
Pan

ity of a bush mechanic. The minimum you should carry with you is a tow rope, shovel, extra
Liambezi

Chosoroga
Pan

Gcoverega
Gcoha
(Dry)
Lake

Hills

fan belt, vehicle fluids, spark plugs, baling wire, jump leads, fuses, hoses, a good jack and a
ὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅ
wooden plank (to use as a base in sand and salt), several spare tyres and a pump (see also
Gubaatsa

Depression
Hills
Delta Map (pp108-9)

Mababe

p130 for some general advice on car travel). A good Swiss Army knife or Leatherman tool
Marshes
Savuti

Mababe Gate
C

Gobabis

ὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈ
combined with a sturdy roll of duct tape will also do in a pinch.
Savuti

Hill
See Okavango
NAMIBIA

„ Although 4WD exploration and bush camping go hand in hand, Botswana remarkably offers
ge
Rid
d an extensive network of well-maintained camp sites, located even in the remotest of places.
San
To Shorobe (75km);

hwe ik Camping equipment varies according to personal preference, though the list of essentials
Maun (122km)

Magw
r
ve includes a waterproof tent, a three-season sleeping bag (you will need a warmer bag in the
5

Ri
i
nt a winter), a ground mat or Therm-a-Rest, fire-starting supplies, firewood, a basic first-aid kit and
ny
ὈὈ
ὈὈ 4

Li
a torch (flashlight) with extra batteries. Although some seasoned hikers stick to the adage
‘less is best’, again, it’s best to err on the side of caution, especially if you have extra room in
Buffalo Ridge Camp Site.....................1 D1

Savute Elephant Camp.....................(see 6)

Savuti Camp Site................................6 C3
King’s Pool Camp...............................4 B2
Linyati Camp Site................................5 B2
Savute Safari Lodge.........................(see 6)
nel

Chobe Game Lodge............................2 E1

Ihaha Camp Site..................................3 E1

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
your 4WD.
B

Savuti Chan
CHOBE NATIONAL PARK

WR Wildlife Reserve
Forest Reserve

Marshes
Linyanti

Mamili NP

„ Sand tracks are most easily negotiated and least likely to bog vehicles in the cool mornings
National Park

and evenings, when the air spaces between grains of sand are smaller. To further prevent
bogging or stalling, move as quickly as possible and keep the revs up, but avoid any sudden
r
ive

r
ai R

e
LEGEND

Riv
Mudumu NP

acceleration. Shift down gears in advance of deep sandy patches or the vehicle may stall and
Khw
Lianshulu

bog. When negotiating a straight course through rutted sand, allow the vehicle to wander
NP

do
FR

an
Kw

along the path of least resistance. Anticipate corners and turn the wheel slightly earlier than
you would on a solid surface – this allows the vehicle to ski smoothly round – then accelerate
Lizauli

SLEEPING

Moremi WR

er
Riv gently out of the turn. Driving on loose sand may be facilitated by lowering the air pressure
do ay
Kwan llw in the tyres, thereby increasing their gripping area.
A

i
Sp
da
lin
Se „ Driving in the Kalahari is often through high grass, and the seeds it disperses can quickly foul
radiators and cause overheating. If the temperature gauge begins to climb, stop and remove
as much plant material as you can from the grille.
2

3
1

4
BOTSWANA 104 C H O B E N AT I O N A L PA R K • • K a s a n e & K a z u n g u l a Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com C H O B E N AT I O N A L PA R K • • C h o b e R i v e r f r o n t 105

BOTSWANA
KASANE & KAZUNGULA 0
0
2 km
1 mile
Garden Lodge (%625 0051; www.thegardenlodge.com; or a wildlife drive. The most obvious feature of
President Ave; s/d US$70/90; ps) The simple but the landscape is the damage done by the area’s
A B C D charming lodge is built around a tropical gar- massive elephant herds, but virtually every
INFORMATION SLEEPING
den, and features a number of well-furnished Southern African mammal species, except the
0
0
1 km
0.5 miles
Barclays Bank...............................1 A2 Chobe Chilwero Lodge............8 A2 rooms that exude a homey atmosphere. rhino, is represented here. You can also see
Botswana Immigration (for Kazungula Garden Lodge...........................9 B1
1 Approximate
Scale Only
Mowana
Golf Ferry to Zambia)......................2 D3 Kubu Lodge...........................10 C3 Kubu Lodge (%625 0312; kubu@botsnet.bw; Kas- pukus, a rare antelope species. In addition, the
Course Botswana Immigration (for Liya Guest Lodge...................11 B2 ane-Kazungula Rd; s/d/tr US$130/170/198; pas) abundance and variety of bird life in this zone
9 Zimbabwe).............................. 3 D3 Sedudu Guest House..............12 A1
NAMIBIA
Located 9km west of Kasane, this riverside of permanent water is astonishing.

Ὀ ὈὈὈὈ
Chobe National Park Entrance.....4 A4 Thebe River Camping.............13 B3
12
M
Chobe Private Clinic.................(see 12) lodge lacks the stuffiness and formality found
Department of Wildlife & National EATING
14
16
ab
ele
Rd
Parks (DWNP)........................(see 4) Spar Supermarket................(see 14) in most other top-end lodges. Rustic wooden Activities
Kasane Hospital...........................5 A2 The Old House......................14 A2 chalets are lovingly adorned with thick rugs A great way to enjoy Chobe is on a river trip
Ch
e
Av

Kasane Internet........................(see 15)

ilw

15 Police...........................................6 A2 SHOPPING and wicker furniture, and scattered around or wildlife drive. The best time to cruise is late
ero

1
Audi Centre...........................15 A2 an impeccably manicured lawn dotted with afternoon, when hippos amble onto dry land
Rd
nt

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

ide

Kasane
5 fig trees. and the riverfront fills with elephants heading
es

Kazungula Crocodile Farm...........7 C3 TRANSPORT

Pr

ὄὄ
2 Bus Terminal...........................16 B1
Chobe Chilwero Lodge (%625 1362; www.sanc down for a drink and a romp in the water. All
6
Mombova
tuarylodges.com; low/high season per person US$385/560; hotels and lodges arrange 2½- to three-hour
Ai
rp
or
11 Rapids pas) Chilwero means ‘place of high view’ wildlife drives and cruises in the morning and
t Za
mb in Setswana, and indeed this exclusive lodge afternoon for US$14 to US$22, plus safari
Rd

NAMIBIA ezi
8 Riv
er boasts panoramic views across the Chobe discounted park fees. Note that if you take
ZAMBIA River. Accommodation is in one of fifteen a morning wildlife drive you can also do an

ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
See Enlargement
Cho
elegant bungalows that feature romantic in- afternoon ‘booze cruise’ and pay park fees for
13 be R
iver
Mpalila Island Kakumba To
Livingstone door and outdoor showers, private terraced only one day.
Sand Bank (82km)
Kasa
ne-K
gardens and colonial fixtures adorned with
3 azun
gula
Rd 10
7
Kazungula
Ferry plush linen. Sleeping
Kasane
2
To Victoria For further options see also p344. Ihaha Camp site (Map p102) is the closest
Falls
Kazungula (72km) DWNP camp site to Kasane, located along
Eating the riverfront about 27km from the Sedudu

ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
3
Kasane is decidedly lacking in eating options, Gate.
Chob
e River though all of the restaurants in the upmarket Buffalo Ridge Camping (Map p102; %625 0430;
Airp

lodges are open to the public. If you’re self camping per person US$5.50; p) This basic camp-
ort
Rd

Rd

Sedudu/
Kasane Forest catering, there’s a Spar near Barclays. ing area is located immediately uphill from
D

per

Kasikile
r

Kasane
4W

ve

Island Reserve
Ri
Up

Airport
The Old House (mains US$5-10; closed Mon) Kasane’s the Ngoma Bridge border crossing near the
o
hom

4 only true restaurant has a relaxed atmosphere western end of the Chobe transit route. Un-
Rd

Les
er

Approximate
and a varied menu. There are a number of like Ihaha, Buffalo Ridge is privately owned,
Riv

Scale Only
4
To Chobe Game To Sedudu Gate (2km); excellent beef, chicken and fish dishes on so you do not need a reservation with the
Ngoma Bridge via Chobe ZIMBABWE
Lodge (1.5km);
Ihaha Camp Transit Route (51km); Buffalo To Nata order here, though there are also several vege- DWNP to camp here.
Ridge Camping (51km) (312km)
Site (29km)
tarian options. Chobe Game Lodge (Map p102; %625 0340; www
.chobegamelodge.com; low/high season per person US$250/
MONEY Sleeping Getting There & Away 325; ps) This highly praised safari lodge is
Barclays Bank (President Ave) Offers better All of the following places can organise Chobe Air Botswana connects Kasane’s airport to one of Botswana’s pinnacles of luxury. The
exchange rates than the bureaux de change. Be sure wildlife drives and cruises, as well as other Maun (US$100) and Gaborone (US$157). lodge itself is constructed in the Moorish style,
to stock up on US dollars (post-1996) if you’re heading excursions. Minibuses to Nata (US$8, three hours), and flaunts high arches, barrel-vaulted ceil-
to Zimbabwe. Thebe River Camping (%625 0314; Kazungula Rd; with connections to Maun and Francistown, ings and tiled floors. Individually decorated
camping per person US$8; ps) Provides a green run when full from the Shell petrol station rooms are elegant yet soothing, and some have
TOURIST INFORMATION riverside setting, along with a bar, meals and bus terminal. Thebe River Camping, Mowana views of the Chobe River and Namibian flood
Department of Wildlife & National Parks (DWNP; Chobe wildlife drives and cruises (US$15). Lodge and Chobe Safari Lodge run Victoria plains. Service is attentive and professional,
%625 0235; Sedudu Gate) This is the booking office for Sedudu Guest House (%625 1748; Sedudu@botsnet Falls transfers (US$40, two hours). All these and there’s a good chance you’ll spot herds
camp sites within Chobe National Park. .bw; President Ave; s/d from US$38/50; pa) This is options usually pick up booked passengers of elephants along the riverfront as you walk
a budget-oriented hotel offering a variety at hotels and guest houses between 9.30am around hotel grounds. The lodge is located
Sights of different rooms and featuring varying and 10am. about 9km from the Sedudu Gate.
If you’re unsuccessful in spotting crocs along amenities.
the Chobe Riverfront, you can get up close Liya Guest Lodge (%71-756903; liyaglo@botsnet CHOBE RIVERFRONT Getting There & Away
and personal with these scaly beasts at the .bw; 1198 Tholo Cres; s/d from US$38/56; ps) This The Chobe riverfront is packed with wildlife, The northern park entrance lies 5km west
Kazungula Crocodile Farm (admission US$4), located warm and friendly family-run lodge is a very and for most visitors, appreciation of this of Kasane and is accessible by conventional
about 1km north of Kazungula. economical option on the hillside. natural wonderland will entail a river cruise vehicle (some Chobe Riverfront drives require
BOTSWANA 106 O K AVA N G O D E LTA • • M a u n lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com O K AVA N G O D E LTA • • M a u n 107

BOTSWANA
4WD), but to reach Savuti or other places in LINYANTI MARSHES a rough-and-tumble outpost for graziers, MONEY
the interior of the park requires 4WD and West of Chobe, on the Botswana–Namibia bor- hunters and poachers, the sealing of the road The Mall has branches of Barclays Bank and
high clearance. To transit between Kasane der, lies the Kwando area, which is dominated in from Nata lead to the burgeoning safari Standard Chartered Bank, which have foreign-
and the Namibian border at Ngoma Bridge by the 900 sq km Linyanti Marshes. The area industry that now drives the town’s economy. exchange facilities and offer better rates than
is free of charge. may be reminiscent of the Okavango Delta, but Although Maun is anything but inspiring, it the bureaus de change.
it’s just a broad, flooded plain along the Linyanti is the obvious start and/or finish for most
SAVUTI River, which is home to large herds of elephants trips into the delta, and it’s by far the most POST
Savuti’s flat expanses make an obligatory stop and buffaloes. As yet, there’s no easy access, but tourist-friendly town in Botswana. Post office (h8.15am-1pm & 2.15-4pm Mon-Fri, 8.30-
for safaris and overland trips between Kasane several concessionaires run luxury camps. 11.30am Sat) Near The Mall.
and Maun. Gobabis Hill, south of the Savuti Orientation
gate near the Savuti Channel, bears several sets Sleeping Central Maun contains most of the restau- TOURIST INFORMATION
of 4000-year-old rock art, which are probably Linyati Camp Site (Map p102) is a DWNP- rants, shops and travel agencies, while the Department of Wildlife & National Parks (DWNP;
of San origin. The wildlife populations, par- operated camp site, with sit-down flush toi- village of Matlapaneng, 10km northeast of %686 1265; fax 686 1264; h7.30am-12.30pm
ticularly elephants and antelopes, can seem lets, braai pits, (hot!) showers and, in the dry the centre, has most of the budget lodges and & 1.45-4.30pm Mon-Sat, 7.30am-noon Sun) To book
overwhelming, especially after heavy rains. season, lots of elephants – be careful. camp sites. In between are the Sedia Hotel and national park camp sites, you need to go to the reserva-
Due to potential high water, Savuti is normally King’s Pool Camp (Map p102; %Bookings through several other tourist-oriented businesses. tions office, which is housed in a caravan behind the
closed (and inaccessible) between January and Wilderness Safaris, Johannesburg 27-11 807 1800; www main building.
March. .wilderness-safaris.com; low/high season US$550/875; p) Information Tourist office (%686 0492; Tsheke Tsheko Rd;
Occupying a magical setting on a Linyanti INTERNET ACCESS h7.30am-12.30pm & 1.45-4.30pm Mon-Fri) This
Sleeping River oxbow overlooking a lagoon, this 10- Afro-Trek I-Café (Sedia Hotel; per hr US$6) is improving, and you’ll also find good information at
Savuti Camp Site (Map p102) is a new DWNP person camp is the most luxurious of the two PostNet (Score Centre; per hr US$6; h9am-6pm Mon- the town’s many tour companies (see p132) and the
camp site, with sit-down flush toilets, braai properties. Accommodation at King’s Pool is Fri, 9.30am-3pm Sat) Matlapaneng lodges.
pits, (hot!) showers and plenty of shade. in private thatched chalets featuring indoor
Savute Safari Lodge (Map p102; %Bookings through and outdoor showers. EXPLORING THE OKAVANGO DELTA
Desert & Delta Safaris, Maun 686 1243; www.desertdelta.com;
low/high season per person US$250/325; p) Located Getting There & Away Stretching like an open palm across northwestern Botswana, the Okavango Delta is a complex and
next to the former site of the legendary Lloyd’s With a 4WD vehicle, you can reach Chobe’s unique ecosystem as well as Botswana’s premier tourist attraction. Although the size and scope
Camp, this relatively new upmarket retreat Linyanti Camp along a very rough track from of the region is often a deterrent for independent travellers, it’s easier to plan a trip through the
consists of 12 contemporary thatched chalets Savuti. Otherwise, air transfers are organised region than you’d imagine, especially if you think of the delta as having four distinct areas:
that are simple yet functional in design. The by individual lodges; Kwando Lagoon Camp „ Eastern Delta – this part of the delta is far more accessible, and therefore cheaper to reach,
main safari lodge is home to a sitting room, is also accessible by river from Lianshulu from Maun than the Inner Delta and Moremi. You can easily base yourself in Maun and
an elegant dining room, a small library and Lodge in Namibia. arrange a day trip by mokoro (traditional dugout canoe) or an overnight bush camping trip
cocktail bar. There is also a viewing deck for far less than the cost of staying in (and getting to) a lodge in the Inner Delta or Moremi.
where you can watch the breathtaking sunset
over the bush.
Savute Elephant Camp (Map p102; %Bookings
OKAVANGO DELTA „ Inner Delta – the area west, north and south of Moremi is classic delta scenery where you
can truly be seduced by the calming spell of the region. Accommodation is in top-end luxury
lodges, almost all of which are only accessible by expensive chartered flights.
through Orient Express Safaris, Maun 686 0153; www.game The 1430km Okavango River rises in central
trackers.orient-express.com; low/high season per person Angola, then flows southeast across Namibia’s „ Moremi Game Reserve – this region includes Chiefs Island and the Moremi Tongue, and is the
US$500/575; pa) The premier camp in Savuti Caprivi Strip before entering Botswana east of most popular destinations within the delta. The Moremi Game Reserve is the only protected
is comprised of 12 lavishly appointed East Shakawe. There, 18.5 billion cubic metres of area within the delta, so wildlife is plentiful, but you will have to pay daily park entry fees.
African–style tents, complete with replica water annually spread like an open palm across Moremi has a few camp sites run by the DWNP as well as several truly decadent lodges with
antique furniture. The main tent houses a the flat landscape as they’re consumed by the jaw-dropping prices. The Moremi Game Reserve is accessible by 4WD from Maun or Chobe as
dining room, lounge and bar, and is located thirsty air and swallowed by the Kalahari sands. well as by charter flight.
next to a swimming pool that overlooks a Eventually, the river loses itself in a 16,000 sq „ Okavango Panhandle – this swampy extension of the Inner Delta stretches northwest towards
pumped water hole. km maze of lagoons, channels and islands. In the Namibian border, and is the main population centre in region. Although this area does
this desert country, the incongruous waters of not offer the classic delta experience, it is growing in popularity due to its ease of accessibility
Getting There & Away the resulting wetland – known as the Okavango via public transportation or 2WD. Since the area is not controlled by a lodge or by the DWNP,
Under optimum conditions, it’s a four- to Delta – attract myriad birds and other wildlife, a number of villages in the panhandle have established accessible camp sites, and also offer
six-hour drive from Kasane to Savuti. The as well as most of Botswana’s tourists. affordable mokoro trips and fishing expeditions.
road is passable by 2WD as far as Kachikau,
but after it turns south into the Chobe Forest MAUN If you’re planning a 4WD expedition through the park, you will have to be completely self-sufficient
Reserve, the road deteriorates into parallel A schizophrenic apparition of donkey-drawn as petrol and supplies are only available in Kasane and Maun. If the prospect of driving yourself
sand ruts that require high-clearance 4WD. carts and flash 4WDs, Maun (pronounced through the wilds of Botswana is a little too much to handle, the hotels and lodges in Maun can
Coming from Maun, you’ll need 4WD to ‘mau-UUnn’) is the self-proclaimed gateway also help you organise a trip through the delta. For more information, see p109.
proceed north of Shorobe. to the Okavango Delta. Although it was once
 ὈὈ
BOTSWANA 108 O K AVA N G O D E LTA lonelyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com O K AVA N G O D E LTA • • M a u n 109

BOTSWANA
OKAVANGO DELTA
0
0
40 km
20 miles
Sights
The Maun Environmental Education Centre (%686

ὈὈὈὈ
ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
To Katima Mulilo
A B C D E (52km) F 1390; admission free; h7.30am-12.30pm & 1.45-4.40pm),
To Rundu (184km) To Kongola (146km);
on the eastern bank of the Thamalakane River,

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Mucusso NAMIBIA Katima Mulilo (193km)
East Caprivi
Andara
Ok
ava
aims to provide school children with an appre-
West Caprivi

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
1
ng
o
River Hwy Mudumu NP
1 ciation of nature. If you’re in town, it’s worth an
Golden
Bagani NAMIBIA hour or so rambling around the bush here.

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Kavango
Divundu
ive
r The Nhabe Museum (%686 1346; admission free,

ὈὈ
Popa Falls
iR donations welcome; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat),
Mahango a nt

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
River
ny
Mohembo
Ferry Li housed in a historic building, features art exhi-
Kaokwe
Linyanti bitions and outlines the natural history and

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Shakawe Marshes
Hauxa
4 Mamili NP cultures of the Okavango. Peripheral activities
22 O
Buffalo Fence ka include local theatre presentations and sales

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Samuchina va a
Samuchina an
ng
o gq of locally produced arts and crafts.
Okavang

we

ὈὈὈὈὈ
ag 2
2 See Tsodilo Hills
The community-run Okavango Swamps Croco-

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Map (p118) M
Selinda Savuti
Nxamaseri Spillway Savuti Channel dile Farm (admission US$2; h9am-4.30pm Mon-Sat) is
o

basically all the encouragement you need to

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Ri

Pa Mawana
ve

Betsha
n keep your hands and feet inside the mokoro
r

18 ha Dungu
Sepupa n dl
while cruising through the delta.

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
e 15
SLEEPING Eretsha Chobe NP
Camp Okavango.............................1 D3 Ikago Seronga
Ganitsuga
Chitabe Camp..................................2 E4 Gqoro 12
Tours

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ

ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈ
ὈὈ
Delta Camp..................................... 3 D4 Etsha 13
5
Drotsky's Cabins...............................4
Duba Plains......................................5
B2
C3
6
Duba Islands Most delta lodges are affiliated with spe-

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Aga
Guma Island Lodge..........................6 C3 Island 21
9
cific agencies and lots of safari companies
Gunn's Camp.................................. 7 D4 The Etshas Kwihum Island 24 3
3
Kanana Camp..................................8 D4
(1-13) 11 run mokoro trips and 4WD safaris, so it’s

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Motshupatsila Nqogha Dindiga
Kaparota Camp................................9 D3 Island Island
Letenetso Island 1
10
Xakanaxa r
wise to check around before choosing one
Kwara Camp..................................10 D3 Etsha 6 19 Khw Rive See Chobe
Island Lopis
Lediba ai North (Khwai) National Park (see p132). Travel Wild (%686 0822; fax 686 0493;

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Makwena Lodge............................11 C3 Island Map (p102)
Gate & Park
Mbiroba Camp...............................12 C3 Madinare
travelwild@dynabyte.bw), opposite the airport,

ὈὈὈὈ
Etsha 1 Island Inner Delta Headquarters
Nxabega Okavango Camp.............13 C4 Mboma
serves as a central booking and information

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Oddball's Palm Island Kandalengoti Chiefs Island
23 Moremi
Luxury Lodge.............................14 D4 Island
Tongue Third Bridge
South
office.
Phala Community Camp Site..........15 C2 Moremi
Gumare (Maqwee)

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Pom Pom Camp.............................16 C4 GR
Gate
Semetsi Camp................................ 17 D4 Tubu Xhumu
Island See Moremi Tongue Map (p114) Sleeping
Xu

Sepupa Swamp Stop.......................18 B2 Island

13
Okavango River Lodge (%686 3707; freewind@info.bw;
du

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Shinde Island Camp....................... 19 D3 Ntamine
m Riv

8 G
16 3 14 Island om 4
4 Stanley's Camp...............................20 E4 7 ot camping per person US$3, s/d chalet US$35/40; p) This
er

Vumbura Camp............................. 21 D3 i

Sa
Sandveldt

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅ
17 2
down-to-earth spot has a lovely setting on the

nt
Xaro Lodge.....................................22 B2 Tongue

Rive
an
Mahito Bobo Eastern

da
Xigera Camp.................................. 23 C4 Delta riverbank, and it’s often quiet because it’s not

dib

r
Xugana Island Lodge..................... 24 D3 Island
Nokaneng Lions Ditshipi

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅ
e
To Aha
Island Bokwi Island as popular as Audi Camp.

River
Hills
(52km) Island
Beacon
Island
Bor
o
Ri
20 Shorobe Maun Rest Camp (%686 3472; simonjoyce@info.bw;

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ve
r Shorobe Rd, Matlapaneng; camping per person US$4, basic
pre-erected tents per person US$6, linen per person extra US$7;

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
See Central Kalahari Game Thamalakane
See Makgadikgadi &
Sand Dunes
Reserve Map (p120) Matlapaneng River
Nxai Pans National p) This no-frills rest camp is spotless, and
Buf Parks Map (p98)
To Aha Hills
falo
Fen
boasts what may justifiably be ‘the cleanest
(43km) ce Maun See Maun & 5
5 Matlapaneng ablution blocks in Maun’.
Map (p110)
Audi Camp (%686 0599; fax 686 0581; www.okavan
To Nata
Gcwihaba Caverns
(Drotsky's Cave) Nxaragha
(223km) gocamp.com; camping per person US$4, s/double tents from
Tsau Valley
Motopi
US$20/26; ps) The most-established budget
Gcwihaba Hills
r

accommodation in Maun is always packed

Rive

er
Riv
Thaoge

r
ive Boteti
with backpackers. It’s by far the most sociable
um

b eR
ha Senagom
Xud

N
Makalamabedi of the lodges, and a good choice if you’re feel-
ing a bit lonely, though it lacks the personality
Rive

Toteng
of some of the smaller lodges.
r

6 6 Sitatunga Camp (%686 4539; fax 686 4540; ground

Sehithwa
Lake
Ngami
hogs_@hotmail.com or delta rain@dynabyte.bw; camping
per person US$4; ps) This camp enjoys a nice
To Ghanzi
bush setting 14km south of Maun, and boasts
(162km) a serious party atmosphere.
BOTSWANA 110 O K AVA N G O D E LTA • • M a u n & M a t l a p a n e n g lonelyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com O K AVA N G O D E LTA • • M a u n 111

BOTSWANA
MAUN & MATLAPANENG 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
Crocodile Camp (%686 0265; www.botswana.com; the classic European standards here includ-
camping per person US$5, s/d tent US$20/40, s/d chalet from ing croissants, cappuccinos, baguettes and
A B C D US$40/60; p) Arguably the most attractive lodge speciality salads.
To Matlapaneng
(7km, see inset below) in Maun, the ‘Croc Camp’ occupies a superb Sports Bar & Restaurant (Shorobe Rd, Sedie; US$5-9)
Airport
4 5 spot right on the river, and is usually packed This popular watering hole has a classy res-
1
9
with all sorts of interesting characters. taurant with a huge range of Western-style

Ai
rp
S t
Back to the Bridge Backpackers (%686 2037; dishes, all lovingly created by a renowned

or
a I

t
ib 23 26
ath

Av
M 20
hellish@info.bw; Hippo Pools, Old Matlapaneng Bridge; camp- chef.

ὈὈὈὈ
27
11 ing per person US$5; s/d tents from US$32/48; p) This Bull & Bush Pub (Mathiba I St; meals US$5-10) The
24
new and friendly option occupies a leafy spot Bull & Bush is probably the most popular
22
Mophane
St beside the historic Old Matlapaneng Bridge. haunt among expats in town. The pub hosts
INFORMATION M
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Maun Environmental Education
The atmosphere is chilled out and the river- a variety of regular events, and is your best bet
Afro-Trek I-Café........................(see 19)
ot
sh
ab
Centre...................................10 C4 side setting is tranquil, so there’s definitely a for a thick steak and cold beer.
Naledi St

Afro-Trek...................................(see 19) Nhabe Museum..........................11 C1

a
lot of potential here.
Khama Rd
St
Audi Camp Safaris......................(see 12)

ὈὈὈὈ
2 Back to the Bridge SLEEPING Island Safari Lodge (%686 0300; fax 686 2932; Drinking
Backpackers...........................(see 13) Audi Camp................................ 12 C5
Barclays Bank.................................1 A4 Back to the Bridge Backpackers..13 C6
island@info.bw; camping per person US$5, s/d chalet US$55/60; While entertainment in Maun is usually of
Sir Seretse

Crocodile Camp Safaris..............(see 14) Crocodile Camp.........................14 C5 p) One of the original lodges in Maun, Island the liquid kind, check out the Friday edition
Department of Wildlife & National Parks Island Safari Lodge.....................15 C5
(DWNP).....................................2 C3 Maun Lodge..............................16 C4 Safari Lodge is starting to show its age, al- of the Ngami Times for the occasional cultural
Desert & Delta Safaris....................3 C3
Moe
Maun Rest Camp.......................17 C6 though the riverside setting is still relaxing offering.
Island Safari Lodge.....................(seeti R 15) Okavango River Lodge.............. 18 D5
Ker & Downey................................4 B1
d 3 Sedia Hotel................................19 C6 and tranquil. Bull & Bush Pub (Mathiba I St) Even if you’re not

ὈὈὈὈ
Maun Rest Camp.......................(see 17) Sedia Hotel (%686 0177; sedia@info.bw; Shorobe Rd; in the mood to eat, it’s worth stopping by the
St

Okavango River Lodge Safaris...(see 18) EATING

du

2 camping per person US$5, s/d from US$75/90; pas) Bull & Bush for a few rounds.
Ku

Okavango Tours & Safaris..........(see 24) Bull & Bush Pub..........................20 B1

Phakawe Safaris..............................5 C1
Post Office.....................................6 A4
Curry House Restaurant &
Takeaway.............................. 21 A4
This resort-like complex features an outdoor Maun Lodge (%686 3939; Old Maun Rd) The bar
3 PostNet......................................(see 26) bar, a Continental-inspired restaurant and at this upmarket hotel usually has live jazz or
French Connection.....................22 B2
Standard Chartered Bank...............7 A4
Tourist Office.................................8 B3
Hilary's.......................................23
Power Station.............................24
B1
B1
huge swimming pool. You can choose from a traditional performers during the evenings
Travel Wild.....................................9 B1 8 Sports Bar & Restaurant.............25 C6 number of rooms and self-contained chalets, from Thursday to Sunday.
or simply pitch a tent and take advantage of Power Station (Mophane St) Housed in the ruins

ὈὈὈὈ
DRINKING
Bull & Bush Pub......................(see 20) all the hotel facilities. of an old power station, the most popular
Ts Maun Lodge...........................(see 16)
Rd Maun Lodge (%686 3939; www.sausage.bw/maun nightspot in Maun takes the power-generation
Sekg

ar
o
St

ko Power Station.........................(see 24)

St he
lodge; maun.lodge@info.bw; Old Maun Rd; s/d US$95/125; theme to its limit with its industrial art–
e

oma

28
Ts Sedia Hotel.............................(see 19)
an

Maun
l
Pu

Sports Bar &

ke

Wildlife
21 1
pas) The newest upmarket hotel in covered bar and restaurant.
he

Rd

The T Reserve Restaurant..........................(see 25)

Ts

Mall swi Maun is located just south of the town centre, Sedia Hotel (Shorobe Rd) The poolside English-
Mo St i Thamalakane
4 tlo Bridge 10 SHOPPING
pi
St
7 Score Centre..............................26 C1 and boasts all the luxuries you’d expect at style pub at this popular hotel also serves
ve
r 16 TRANSPORT
this price. as a popular disco on Friday and Saturday
Ri
6 ane Air Botswana..............................27 C1 nights.
Thamala k Long-Distance Bus Station..........28 A4 Eating Sports Bar & Restaurant (Shorobe Rd) This local
Hilary’s (Mathiba I St; meals from US$3; h8am-4pm Mon- landmark attracts expats, pilots, safari oper-
Fri, 8.30am-12pm Sat) This homey place offers a ators and tourists with its cold beer, strong
choice of wonderfully earthy meals, including drinks, satellite TV, pool tables and classy

ὈὈ
home-made bread, baked potatoes, soups and food.
To Maun General
Hospital (800m); sandwiches.
5 Okavango Swamps
Crocodile Farm (14km);
Sitatunga Camp (14km)
Curry House Restaurant & Takeaway (The Mall; Getting There & Away
meals US$3-6) The smell of curry wafts across AIR
INSET – AROUND MAUN 15 To Shorobe (37km);
18 South Gate; the Mall, and attracts many locals to this Air Botswana has daily flights between Maun
14 Moremi WR (92km)
Matlapaneng
12 unpretentious place. It serves cheap, delicious and Gaborone (US$156). Flights into the delta
Sedie
25
and authentic curries as well as other tasty are typically arranged by lodges through local
17
See map paneng
) Rd 19
13
Indian delicacies. air charter companies.
e (Matla
above Shorob Power Station (Mophane St; US$4-8) Although it’s
Maun better known as a bar and nightclub, this BUS
‘industrial’ Maun institution serves a good At the long-distance bus station northeast of
6 0 2 km mix of pastas, burgers, salads, local specialities the Mall you’ll find buses to Nata (US$6; three
0 1 mile
and vegetarian meals. hours), with connections to Kasane (US$12,
To Ghanzi (286km);
Shakawe
To Nata (302km);
Francistown (490km);
French Connection (Mopane Rd; US$5-8) This styl- six hours) and Francistown (US$9, five
(386km) Kasane (614km) ish café is a good choice if you’re looking to hours); Shakawe (US$10, five hours); Shorobe
put a little flair in your day. You can get all (US$1, one hour); and Ghanzi (US$4.50, five
BOTSWANA 112 O K AVA N G O D E LTA • • E a s t e r n D e l t a Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com O K AVA N G O D E LTA • • I n n e r D e l t a 113

BOTSWANA
hours). Get to the terminal as early as pos- -safaris.com)low/high season US$225/550 per person; s)
sible if you want to connect in Nata with a Situated near the Santandadibe River along DELTA LODGES
bus to Kasane. the southern edges of Moremi Game Reserve, If you’ve got a little bulge in your budget, the delta is one place where it’s worth dusting off
Chitabe is an island-oasis renowned for the the coat-tails and living it up to your heart’s content.
Getting Around presence of Cape hunting dogs and other less The rates for all lodges in the Eastern Delta, Inner Delta and Moremi Game Reserve include
Local minibuses between town and Mat- common wildlife. accommodation or camping equipment, all meals and several activities or excursions, such as
lapaneng (US$0.30) run when full from the mokoro trips, nature walks and wildlife drives. The more expensive places also include drinks
bus terminal and airport; taxis cost around INNER DELTA (beer and wine only), and entry fees to Moremi Game Reserve. All rooms, chalets and tents have
US$4. Roughly defined, the Inner Delta occupies private bathrooms (unless stated otherwise).
the areas west of Chiefs Island and between Transfers (if required) by road or, more usually, by air, from Maun are never included in nor-
EASTERN DELTA Chiefs Island and the base of the Okavango mal daily rates. (Transfers may be included in package deals, however.) Air fares listed are per
The Eastern Delta includes the wetlands Panhandle. Mokoro trips through the Inner person return from Maun. Most lodges and booking agencies deal exclusively with a particular
between the southern boundary of Moremi Delta are almost invariably arranged with Maun-based air-charter company, so your chances of finding other charter companies offering
Game Reserve and the buffalo fence that licensed polers affiliated with specific lodges, discounted fares to a certain lodge are negligible.
crosses the Boro and Santandadibe Rivers, and operate roughly between June and De- Most lodges have different rates for ‘high season’ (about July to October) and ‘low season’
north of Matlapaneng. If you’re short of time cember, depending on the water level. (about November to June), but if only one rate is listed, this is the rate charged all year. Some
and/or money, this part of the delta remains places offer unadvertised discounted rates for ‘shoulder seasons’ (early March to mid-June and
an affordable and accessible option. Mokoro Sleeping mid-October to late November), but you’ll have to ask. The rates listed are always per person
trips in the Eastern Delta are mainly organ- Oddball’s Palm Island Luxury Lodge (Map pp108-9; sharing a twin/double room. Single supplements are usually charged, but will be normally waived
ised by Maun lodges and tour companies %Bookings through Okavango Tours & Safaris, 686 1154; if a single traveller is willing to share twin accommodation with another single traveller. Rates
(see p132). www.okavango.bw; s/d US$250/350) For years, this listed include all government taxes and service charges. Tips are always extra.
lodge catered primarily to backpackers, and The rates shown in this chapter are for ‘foreigners’; most lodges offer substantial (but rarely
Sleeping was by far the most affordable option in the published) discounts to Botswana citizens and residents and to citizens of ‘regional countries’, ie
Chitabe Camp (Map pp108-9; %bookings through Wild- delta. Although it’s still one of the cheap- mainly South Africa and Namibia. Although tariffs are quoted in US dollars by the lodges, pay-
erness Safaris, Johannesburg 27-11 807 1800; www.wilderness est lodges in the region, Oddball’s has gone ment is possible in pula – but at a rate that suits the lodge. Payment by credit card may incur
an additional surcharge, so check first with the lodge.
All lodges in the Eastern Delta, Inner Delta and Moremi Game Reserve must be pre-booked,
TRAVELLING BY MOKORO preferably before you arrive in Maun.
Most visitors to the Okavango spend at least some time travelling by mokoro (plural, mekoro), a
shallow-draught dugout canoe hewn from ebony or sausage tree log (or, more recently, moulded
from fibreglass). The mekoro are poled from a standing position and their precarious appearance upmarket in recent years. Its new price tag is of the delta, and is famous for attracting large
belies their amazing stability. A mokoro normally accommodates the poler, two passengers and a little high, though, considering you’re still buffalo herds.
their food and camping equipment. staying in budget dome tents. Xigera Camp (Map pp108-9; %Bookings through
While one-day trips are possible in the Eastern Delta (with a return drive lasting several hours Semetsi Camp (Map pp108-9; %Bookings through Wil-derness Safaris, Johannesburg 27-11 807 1800; www.wil
from Maun), or a more expensive fly-in trip, most people prefer a multiday trip, where travellers Crocodile Camp Safaris, 686 0265; www.botswana.com; s/d derness-safaris.com; low/high season per person US$400/600)
ride for several days with the same poler, breaking their journey with walks on palm islands and US$250/350) Another comparatively affordable Pronounced ‘kee-jera’, this isolated spot is
moving between established camps or wild camping along the way. In this case, the quality of option, Semetsi Camp consists of eight dome located deep in the heart of the Inner Delta,
the experience depends largely upon the skill of the poler, the meshing of personalities and the tents attractively scattered around a palm- and is renowned for its rich bird life and
passengers’ enthusiasm. fringed islet that overlooks Chiefs Island. tropical ambience.
The importance of finding a competent poler cannot be overstated, especially when you’re Delta Camp (Map pp108-9; %Bookings through Okavango Kanana Camp (Map pp108-9; %Bookings through
expecting them to negotiate labyrinthine waterways or lead you on bushwalks through wildlife Tours & Safaris, 686 1154; www.okavango.bw; low/high season Ker & Downey, 686 0375; www.kerdowney.com; low/high
country. The keenest polers can speak at least some English; warn you about dangers (never per person US$350/450) This long-standing camp is season US$425/500) This classy retreat occupies
swim without first asking the poler!); recognise and identify plants, birds and animals along the beautifully situated beside a flowing channel a watery site in a maze of grass- and palm-
way; explain the delta cultures; and perhaps even teach clients how to fish using traditional near the southern end of Chiefs Island. covered islands.
methods. Nxabega Okavango Camp (Map pp108-9; %Book- Gunn’s Camp (Map pp108-9; %Bookings through
If you’re organising a budget mokoro trip, inquire in advance as to whether you’re expected ings through CCAfrica, Johannesburg 27-11 809 4300; www Crocodile Camp Safaris, 686 0265; www.botswana.com; s/d
to provide food for your poler. Even if they do bring their own supplies, many travellers prefer .ccafrica.com; low/high season per person US$350/450) On US$425/650) Much like Oddball’s, Gunn’s Camp
to share meals. The polers may, for example, provide a sack of mealie meal (ground maize) and the shores of the Boro River, this exquisitely has worked hard in past years to redefine itself
cooking implements while travellers supply the relishes: tins of curries, stews and vegetables. If designed tented camp has sweeping views of as an upmarket luxury lodge. Unlike Oddball’s
you have arranged to provide your poler’s meals, the standard daily rations are 500g of mealie the delta floodplains. however, the conversion has been more effec-
meal, 250g of white sugar, six tea bags and sufficient salt and powdered milk. Vumbura Camp (Map pp108-9; %Bookings through tive, so it’s likely that the memory of the old
Although it’s still possible to negotiate with independent polers, most visitors organise mokoro Okavango Tours & Safaris, 686 1154; www.okavango.bw; low/ camp will fade quickly.
trips through delta lodges or Maun safari companies, or through the Okavango Polers Trust in high season per person US$400/600) This twin-camp is Pom Pom Camp (Map pp108-9; %Bookings through
Seronga (see p116). located on the Duba Plains at the transition Okavango Tours & Safaris, 686 1154; www.okavango.bw;
zone between the savannas and swamps north low/high season per person US$450/600) This intimate
BOTSWANA 114 O K AVA N G O D E LTA • • M o re m i G a m e R e s e r v e Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com O K AVA N G O D E LTA • • M o re m i G a m e R e s e r v e 115

BOTSWANA
camp was one of the original luxury retreats The two most prominent dry features are sharply with surrounding landscapes. The sausage and jackalberry trees just outside of
in the delta, though frequent renovations have Chiefs Island, deep in the Inner Delta, and 25km sandy Mboma Loop starts about 2km Moremi, this charming lodge shows elegant
kept it up to speed with recent properties. the Moremi Tongue, comprising the reserve’s west of Third Bridge and is a pleasant side taste, and the staff is famous for their meticu-
Duba Plains (Map pp108-9; %Bookings through Oka- northeastern extent. Habitats range from trip. lous attention to detail.
vango Tours & Safaris, 686 1154; www.okavango.bw; low/high mopane woodland and thorn scrub to dry Camp Moremi (Map p114; %Bookings through Desert &
season US$550/750 per person) North of the Moremi savanna, riverbank woodlands, grasslands, XAKANAXA LEDIBA Delta Safaris, 686 1234; www.desertdelta.com; low/high season
Game Reserve, Duba Plains is one of the most floodplains, marshes, permanent waterways, With one of Africa’s largest heronries, per person US$US$250/325; p) This long-standing
remote camps in the delta. lagoons and islands. Xakanaxa Lediba (Xakanaxa Lagoon; Map wilderness retreat sits amid giant ebony trees
p114) is renowned as a bird-watchers’ para- next to Xakanaxa Lediba, and is surrounded
Getting There & Away Sights dise. Potential sightings here include herons, by game-rich grasslands.
The only way in and out of the Inner Delta THIRD BRIDGE marabous, saddle-bill storks, egrets and ibises Xugana Island Lodge (Map pp108-9; %Bookings
for most visitors is by air. This is an expen- This is literally the third log bridge after enter- (wood, sacred and glossy). The area also sup- through Desert & Delta Safaris, 686 1234; www.desertdelta
sive extra, but the pain is less if you look at ing the reserve at South Gate (Map pp108–9). ports an array of wildlife and large numbers .com; low/high season per person US$250/350; p) Set on a
it as two scenic flights. Chartered flights to It’s a rustic and beautiful bridge spanning a of fish. pristine lagoon just north of Moremi, this lodge
the lodges listed above typically cost about sandy, tannin-coloured pool on the Sekiri The lagoon is home to several upmarket offers superb bird-watching and fishing.
US$150 to US$200 roundtrip, Mekoro or River, which is an idyllic spot to camp and lodges that operate boat and mokoro trips Kaparota Camp (Map pp108-9; %Bookings through
4WD vehicles will meet your plane and take enjoy a picnic. Contrary to official advice, and for guests. The public may be able to join an Wilderness Safaris, Johannesburg 27-11 807 1800; www.wild
you to the lodge. despite DWNP regulations, many ignorant organised boat or mokoro trip for a high – but erness-safaris.com; low/high season per person US$250/400)
visitors swim here, but it’s a very bad idea – negotiable – fee. Situated on a remote island north of Moremi,
MOREMI GAME RESERVE and foolhardy because of the risk of hippos The drive between North Gate and this modest camp is named after the heavy

ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
This reserve (h6am-6.30pm Mar-Sep, 5.30am-5.30pm and crocs among the reeds. Xakanaxa Lediba follows one of Botswana’s concentration of sausage trees that grow on
Oct-Feb), encompassing 3000 sq km, was set most scenic tracks. Worthwhile stops include the grounds.
aside in the 1960s to protect the most wild- MBOMA ISLAND Dombo Hippo Pool (about 14km southwest Stanley’s Camp (Map pp108-9; low/high season US$250/450
life-rich part of the Okavango Delta. The park The grassy savanna of this 100 sq km island of North Gate), where hippos crowd along per person; p) Significantly less ostentatious than
has a distinctly dual personality, with large (Map p114), which is actually just a long the shore. Their shenanigans can be enjoyed other lodges in Moremi, Stanley’s lacks the
areas of dry land rising between vast wetlands. extension of the Moremi Tongue, contrasts in relative safety from an elevated observation formality and pretence commonly found in this

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
post. The two water holes at Paradise Pools are corner of the country. You can book through

ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὄ ὄ
MOREMI TONGUE 0 10 km
as lovely as the name suggests. any of the Maun operators (see p132).

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
0 6 miles
To Kwara Kwara Camp (Map pp108-9; %Bookings through
A Camp (10km); Xugana B C D Sleeping Kwando Safaris, 686 1449; www.kwando.co.za; low/high

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Island Lodge (15km);
Camp Okavango (20km);
Shinde Island Camp (25km);
Khwai
River 21
CAMPING season per person US$250/650; p) This island camp
Kaparota Camp (40km) North (Khwai)
The DWNP operates each of the four camp lies in an area of subterranean springs, which

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Airstrip
Gate & Park 6
1 Headquarters To Mababe sites in the Moremi Game Reserve. form pools that support enough fish to attract

ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
Ὀ
5 Gate (50km);

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Xhamu
Lediba Khwai Khwai Chobe National
Park
Khwai Camp Site (Map p114; North Gate; p) The flocks of pelicans (the name means ‘Where the
3
Xakanaxa Paradise r 4 camp site here is shady and well developed. Pelicans Feed’).
ive

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Lediba Pools
9 Xhoro-oro 1
R
There are a couple of small shops in Khwai Xakanaxa Camp (Map p114; %Bookings through Oka-
Pan village on the other side of the river. vango Tours & Safaris, 686 1154; www.okavango.bw; low/high

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22 Mmamokuba 42
Mboma 8 Xakanaxa
Pan Maqwee Camp Site (Map p114; South Gate; p) season per person US$300/425; p) This camp offers
Island Airstrip The camp site here is reasonably-developed, a pleasant mix of delta and savanna habitat,

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6 Moremi
9

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ὄ
2 Fourth Bridge Game
Reserve
though the ablution blocks are a bit run and teems with huge herds of elephants and
Magwexana Bodum a u Rd
15 Lediba at down. other wildlife.).

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23.5
2 Second Bridge Third Bridge Camp Site (Map p114; Third Bridge; p) Machaba Camp (Map p114; %Bookings through Ker
First
30

15
Bridge
On the edge of a lagoon (so watch out for & Downey, 686 0375; www.kerdowney.com; low/high season

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42
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Dombo Hippo Pool.......................1 C1 hippos and crocs), the most popular camp US$375/450, s supplement US$150/200; p) Named after
Third Bridge.................................2 A2 site in Moremi is starting to show its age, the local word for the sycamore fig trees that

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though it’s still a beautiful place to pitch for shelter the camp, Machaba sits along with

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Xhumu SLEEPING
Island 24
the night. the Khwai River, which becomes an evening

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Xini
Camp Moremi..............................3 A1
Lediba Khwai Camp Site..........................4 D1
Leghwedau Khwai River Lodge.......................5 D1 Xakanaxa Camp Site (Map p114; Xakanaxa Lediba; p) drinking venue for hundreds of animals, in-

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Pan South
(Maqwee)
Machaba Camp...........................6
Maqwee Camp Site......................7
D1
C3
This camp site occupies a narrow strip of land cluding elephants, antelopes and zebras.
7
Gate
Third Bridge Camp Site................8 A2 surrounded by marshes and lagoons. Shinde Island Camp (Map pp108-9; %Bookings

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ὅ
3 Xakanaxa Camp Site....................9 A1
through Ker & Downey, 686 0375; www.kerdowney.com;
15 LODGES low/high season US$450/550; p) This lagoon-side

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Distance Interval
Mboma Loop (25km) Camp Okavango (Map pp108-9; %Bookings through camp, one of the oldest in the delta, is situ-
To Maun Khwai Loop (27km) Desert & Delta Safaris, 686 1234; www.desertdelta.com; ated on the fringe between the savanna and
(90km)
low/high season per person US$250/325; p) Set amid the delta, just north of Moremi.
BOTSWANA 116 O K AVA N G O D E LTA • • T h e O k a v a n g o Pa n h a n d l e Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
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BOTSWANA
Khwai River Lodge (Map p114; %Bookings through Phala Community Camp Site (Map pp108-9; Ganit- vango River about 5km southeast of Shakawe foremost attraction is their end-of-the-world
Orient-Express Safaris, 686 0302; www.gametrackers.orient suga; camping per person US$4; p) This rustic camp and about 4km east of the main road. remoteness and utter silence, due mainly to
-express.com; low/high season per person US$500/575; p) site is friendly, welcoming and far from the Xaro Lodge (Map pp108-9; s/d chalet US$50/75; p) the almost total absence of water. There are
Perched on the northern shores of the Khwai tourist crowd. Phala is near Ganitsuga village, The lodge is remote – about 10km downstream no facilities in the Aha Hills, but unofficial
River, this opulent lodge overlooks the Moremi about 23km east of Seronga and accessible by from Drotksy’s – but serene and extremely camping is allowed within 100m of the main
Game Reserve, and is frequently visited by a sturdy 2WD or hitching from Seronga. picturesque. Book through Drotksy’s. track. Basic supplies and drinkable bore water
large numbers of hippos and elephants. are available in the villages of Nxainxai and
LODGES GCWIHABA CAVERNS Gcangwa.
Getting There & Away Sepupa Swamp Stop (Map pp108-9; % 686 7073; (DROTSKY’S CAVE) Two taxing 4WD routes lead to the Aha
There’s no public transport to Moremi, so island@info.bw; Sepopa village; swampstop@maun.info; camp- In the !Kung language, the name of this decor- Hills. One follows the Gcwihaba Caverns
you’ll need a 4WD vehicle or a drive-in or ing per person US$4, s/d tents US$30/40; p) This laid- ated cavern system in the Gcwihaba Hills route (see left), and the other turns west from
fly-in safari. If you’re booked into one of the back riverside camp site is secluded, handy to means ‘Hyena’s Hole’. They weren’t brought the Maun–Shakawe road, north of a small
delta camps, air, road or boat transport is Sepupa village, very affordable and accessible to European attention until the mid-1930s bridge near Nokaneng. From there, it’s 190km
normally arranged by the camp, but usually (3km) from the Maun–Shakawe road. when the !Kung showed them to a Ghanzi west to the Aha Hills.
for an additional charge. Mbiroba Camp (Map pp108-9; %687 6861; camping farmer, Martinus Drotsky, and for years they
US$5, s/d chalet US$35/45; p) This impressive camp were known as Drotsky’s Cave. The two en- TSODILO HILLS
THE OKAVANGO PANHANDLE is run by the Okavango Polers Trust, and is trances are 300m apart but the route through The four Tsodilo Hills (Male, Female, Child
In northwestern Botswana, the Kalahari sands the usual launch point for mokoro trips into the cave is about 800m. and North Hill) rise abruptly from a rippled,
meet the Okavango Delta. In the Okavango the delta. There are no lights and no indication of oceanlike expanse of desert and are threaded
Panhandle, the river’s waters spread across Guma Island Lodge (Map pp108-9; %687 4022; which route to take, so you must carry several with myth, legend and spiritual significance
the valley on either side to form vast reed gumacamp@info.bw; camping per person US$5, family chalets powerful torches as well as emergency lights, for the San people, who believe this was the
beds and papyrus-choked lagoons. Here a US$150; p) Fishing is the focus at this secluded such as matches and cigarette lighters. The site of Creation. More than 2750 ancient rock
cosmopolitan mix of people (Mbukushu, Yei, camp, though Guma Island also advertises hardest part is a short, vertical climb down paintings have been discovered at well over
Tswana, Herero, European, San and refugee itself as a ‘family resort’ – if you’re travel- into a pit and then up the other side to a 200 sites. And as in most of Southern Africa,
Angolans) occupy clusters of fishing villages ling with the little ones, they will be well shelf, where there’s a tight squeeze before you the majority of these are attributed to ances-
and extract their livelihoods from the rich catered for. emerge in a large room. The nearest water is tors of today’s San people.
waters. They’re also increasingly catering to Makwena Lodge (Map pp108-9; %687 4299; fax the borehole at Nxainxai (variously spelt Cae There’s now a museum near Main Camp,
the growing numbers of visitors to the region, 687 4302; camping per person US$6, backpackers’ s/d from Cae, Xai Xai and Cgae Cgae) village. extolling the undeniably spiritual nature of
where mokoro trips and accommodation are US$30/45; p) Located on Qhaaxhwa (Birthplace However inconvenient it may be, visitors the hills, as well as several unmarked tracks
more affordable than in other parts of the of the Hippo) Lagoon at the base of the pan- are advised to check in with the village of that pass the main paintings and sacred sites.
Okavango Delta. handle, this stretch of the panhandle closely Nxainxai before visiting the caves, as villag- Normally, local San people will guide groups
resembles the Inner Delta. ers claim ownership of the caves and gates for around US$13 per day.
Sleeping Drotsky’s Cabins (Map pp108-9; %687 5035; may be installed to prevent visitors entering
CAMPING drotskys@info.bw; camping per person US$10, s/d A-frames without paying local guides and admission Sleeping
Camping is also available at most of the US$60/110, 4-person chalets US$120; p) This lovely, wel- fees (around US$5 per person) through the Visitors can camp at either the Main (Rhino),
lodges. coming lodge lies beside a channel of the Oka- Dutch-organised Cgae Cgae Tlhabolo Trust. Malatso, Makoba Woods camping grounds
Tours to the cave (and to the nearby Aha for US$6 per person, or at wild camp sites
Hills) can be arranged in Maun, but only around the base of the hills, but there are no
OKAVANGO POLERS TRUST with enough people paying enough money. shops or services. Water is sometimes avail-
The Okavango Polers Trust (%687 6861) was established in 1998 by the people of Seronga to Self-drivers need a 4WD with high clearance, able at the Main Camp and at the borehole
provide cheaper and more accessible mokoro trips and accommodation for visitors. Since the long-range petrol tanks, water reserves and several hundred metres from the airstrip (this
collective is run entirely by the village, all profits are shared by the workers, invested into the camping equipment. Take an unsignposted water is intended for cattle, so it’s wise to
trust and used to provide the community with better facilities. The trust directly employs nearly turn-off 2km northwest of Tsau and follow purify it).
100 people, including polers, dancers, cooks, managers and drivers. Since no travel agency or the roving track for about 90km to the sign-
safari operator has its fingers in the pie, the cooperative can afford to charge reasonable prices for posted turn-off to the Xhaba borehole. Turn Getting There & Away
mokoro trips. Although it’s not uncommon to pay upwards of US$100 per day for a mokoro trip out south here and after 27km you’ll reach the Most Maun safari companies and agencies
of Maun, the trust charges US$30 per day for two people. Keep in mind, however, that you must borehole; another 27km gets you to the cav- can organise one-day air charters starting at
self-cater (ie bring your own food, water and, if necessary, camping and cooking equipment). erns. Alternatively, you can approach from US$450 for five people, but they’ll allow only
There’s no longer a daily bus from Mohembo to Seronga, but it’s almost always possible to hitch the Aha Hills. three hours of sightseeing, with little time
from the free Okavango River ferry in Mohembo (see p121 for more on hitching in Botswana). Plan to climb or explore in this remarkable area.
on paying about US$0.75 for a lift. When they’re operating, water taxis run along the Okavango AHA HILLS Safari companies also run custom safaris, but
between Sepupa Swamp Stop (see above) and Seronga (US$3, two hours); transfers from the Straddling the Botswana–Namibia border, the they need advance notice and enough paying
Seronga dock to Mbiroba Lodge, 3km away, cost US$9. Otherwise, Sepupa Swamp Stop charters 700-million-year-old limestone and dolomite clients to make it worthwhile.
18-passenger boats for US$90. Aha Hills rise 300m from the flat, thorny Ka- Thanks to three notorious access routes,
lahari scrub. They’re scenic enough, but the Tsodilo was once one of Botswana’s most
BOTSWANA 118 T H E K A L A HA R I • • K h u t s e G a m e R e s e r v e lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T H E K A L A HA R I • • C e n t r a l K a l a h a r i G a m e R e s e r v e 119

BOTSWANA
TSODILO HILLS 0
0
2 km
1 mile
leopards, brown and spotted hyenas, jackals, Khama Cres, Gaborone; hreservations 7.30am-12.45pm &
caracals (which the San people believe to be 1.45-4.30pm Mon-Fri) in Gaborone and visitors must
A B C D the incarnation of the morning star) and even be self-sufficient in food, water and fuel.
North Hill
hunting dogs. The entrance gate is 226km from Gaborone;
All roads on this map
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES are in very poor condition Khutse has eight DWNP-operated camp at Letlhakeng the sealed road becomes a rough
1 Antelope & Cattle Paintings...............(see 9) and still require a 4WD sites, but only Wildlife Camp, near the entry 103km sandy 4WD track. From Letlhakeng,
Brightly Coloured 'Test Pattern' Panel...1 C2
Dancing Penises & Cliff Trail
gate, has (brackish) running water and show- you may be able to hitch to the gate, but not
Eland Paintings (#17)........................2 C3
Divuyu Trail To Samuchina
ers. Khutse Camp Site, with a rudimentary inside the reserve itself.
Divuyu.................................................3 C3
Elephant Shelter...................................4 D3 Rhino Trail
(30km)
camp site, is 14km west of the entry gate. The
Gemsbok, Sable Antelope &
Ostrich Painting................................5 C2 Lion Trail
most distant site is the very pleasant Moreswa CENTRAL KALAHARI GAME RESERVE
Giraffe Paintings...................................6 C3 Child Male Hill Trail
Pan, 67km from the gate, which has a natural The Central Kalahari Game Reserve covers
Giraffe, Antelope & Hill water source that attracts wildlife. All sites must 52,000 sq km and is Africa’s largest protected
Chequerboard Lion (#8)....................7 C3
Headquarters & Museum.................(see 24) 23
5 be pre-booked through the DWNP (Map pp88-9; area, sprawling across the nearly featureless
21
Hippo & Dancers Paintings...................8 C2
Horned Serpent Natural Cistern............9 C2
%318 0774; dwnp@gov.bw; PO Box 131, Government Enclave, heart of Botswana. It’s perhaps best known
2 16
Laurens van der Post's Panel
(Elands & Giraffe)...........................10 C3 Cliff Trail
Bypass 13

Sa
Lion Painting......................................11 D3
VOICES AGAINST RELOCATION

nd
Nqoma site (#7).................................12 C3 9
Origin of Sex Painting........................13 C2 1
Rhino & Giraffe Painting (#15) &
17 8 Informal government programmes aimed at removing the San from the central Kalahari began
26
in 1986, and forced relocations intensified from 1997 to 2002. During this time, Survival Inter-

Ri
Numerous Eland Paintings (#14)......14 C3

dg
Rhinos, Buffalo Forgery & 10

e
Faint Zebra Paintings (#10).............15 C3
Female
6
national (www.survival-international.org), an NGO that advocates for the self-determination of
Hill
Shelter with Kudu, Crab, Chevrons & 3 indigenous populations, worked in conjunction with the First People of the Kalahari (FPK), the
Numerous Stylised Paintings...........16 C2
Shields (Ladders), Half-Giraffe & Central Kalahari Game Reserve (CKGR) San organisation, in an attempt to reverse the relocation
Rainmaking Scene...........................17 C2
19 7 Nxamaseri (40km) process. In 2005 the actions of FPK were recognised with the bestowment of the Right Livelihood
3 Signpost & Cave (#12).......................18 C3
Tree of True Knowledge 12 15 2 4 Award, which is regarded as the ‘Alternative Nobel Prize’. The following is an excerpt from the
22
Water Pit (#4).................................19 C3
24 14 20 11 acceptance speech by Roy Sesana:
Whale, Penguin, Wildebeest, Hippo & 18
Reclining Giraffe Paintings (#11)....20 C3 ‘Why am I here? Because my people love their land, and without it we are dying. Many years
ne

Wheels Painting.................................21 C2
eli

25 ago, the president of Botswana said we could live on our ancestral land forever. We never needed
Pip

Wheels Painting (#16)........................22 C3

Zebra Logo Painting...........................23 C2 anyone to tell us that. Of course we can live where God created us! But the next president said
Bore Hole #1 we must move and began forcing us away... I say what kind of development is it when the people
SLEEPING Fields Male Hill
Main (Rhino) Camp............................24 C3 live shorter lives than before? They catch HIV/AIDS. Our children are beaten in school and won’t
Makoba Woods Camp Site.................25 C3
Malatso Camp Site.............................26 C2
Air Strip (420m) go there. Some become prostitutes. They are not allowed to hunt. They fight because they are
bored and get drunk. They are starting to commit suicide. We never saw that before. It hurts to
4 Bore Hole Fields say this. Is this ‘development’?
Following Survival International’s campaign to bring the forced relocations into the interna-
Buffalo Fence
Mbukushu
tional spotlight, the CKGR achieved global notoriety. The international media has been quick
Village
To Sepupa
to condemn the Botswanan government while praising the efforts of Survival International, but
!Kung Village Bore Hole #2
To Tshukumutshu (39km) (44km)
the background is complex.
The CKGR was a legacy of the British colonial administration in Botswana. Before the British
inaccessible wonders. The good news (or prominent geographical features. While a administration departed in 1961, it set aside the area to protect the interests of San, and for two
bad news, depending on your perspective) small portion is classic desert, most of the decades the Botswanan government provided health and education services to the residents
is that the middle (Nxamaseri) road is cur- Kalahari is a vast deposit of sandy sediments in the CKGR. However, in the 1990s it established a more accessible external settlement called
rently being upgraded and, by the time you that receive too much rainfall to be officially New Xade, and relocations began in 1997 – some voluntary, some not. The subsequent course
read this, will have turned from a four-hour classified as an arid zone. of events is murky, but it seems that at least one model for shared use was put forward, but
grind through deep sand in a low 4WD to In Botswana, the Kalahari (Kgalakgadi that shared use was never seriously considered by the Botswanan Government, which remained
a 30-minute 2WD jaunt through the bush. in Setswana) offers a solitude all its own. intractable to discussion with the FPK.
Note, however, that you’ll still need a 4WD Distances are vast, transport is rare and fa- Survival International staged a series of international demonstrations intended to persuade the
to explore the hills area. cilities are few and far between, and off main government to back down. These efforts were undoubtedly well-intended – the organisation has
routes, the scant villages huddle around fee- a long-standing record of good works – but this particular campaign appears to have been less
ble boreholes.
THE KALAHARI KHUTSE GAME RESERVE
than successful. The FPK and the government were unable to resume discussions, and the FPK
took the matter to the High Court, supported by Survival International. The situation appeared to
have been resolved in the favour of the San in December 2006 when the High Court of Botswana
The Kalahari sands stretch across parts of The 2600 sq km Khutse Game Reserve makes ruled that the San were wrongly evicted from the CKGR. However, whether the victory makes a
seven countries: Congo (Zaïre), Angola, a popular weekend excursion for adventurous material difference to the condition of the San depends to some extent on the way the ruling
Zambia, Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe and Gaborone dwellers. Expect to see a variety of is interpreted by the government.
South Africa, and form one of Africa’s most antelopes, as well as such predators as lions,
 ὈὈὈ
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120 T H E K A L A HA R I • • C e n t r a l K a l a h a r i G a m e R e s e r v e lonelyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com T H E K A L A HA R I • • G h a n z i 121

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BOTSWANA

BOTSWANA
CENTRAL KALAHARI GAME RESERVE 0 50 km for Deception (or Letiahau) Valley, the site of 105km along the eastern side of the buffalo
0 30 miles
Mark and Delia Owens’ 1974 to 1981 brown fence to the Matswere Gate. The very remote

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hyena study, which is described in their book southern gate is accessed from Khutse Game
Maun Nxai Pans
Section
Cry of the Kalahari. At Deception Pan brown Reserve and the Xade Gate is reached from a
Tsao
hyenas emerge just after dark and you may turn-off near D’kar.
Motopi Gweta
also see lions. Three similar fossil valleys:
Makalamabedi
Makgadikgadi &
Nxai Pans NP the Okwa, the Quoxo (or Meratswe) and the GHANZI
Passarge also bring topographical relief to The principal attraction of the Kalahari’s ad-

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ὈὈὈὈὈ ὄ ὄὄὄ
ὄὄὄ
ὄὄὄ
ὄ
Toteng
the virtually featureless expanses, although ministrative centre is Gantsi Craft (%659 6241;
Sehitwa Makgadikgadi
Lake
Ngami
Pans Section the rivers ceased flowing more than 16,000 Henry Jankie Dr; h8am-12.30pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-
Ntwetwe
Pan years ago. Other pans in the northern area of noon Sat), which was established in 1953 as a
See Okavango Delta Map (pp108-9)
the reserve – Letiahau, Piper’s, Sunday and craft outlet and training centre for the San.
Passarge – are artificially pumped to provide It’s an excellent place to shop for traditional
Deception
Valley Lodge
water for wildlife. San crafts including dyed textiles, decorated

ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὄὄὄὄ ὄ ὄὄὄ
Matswere Rakops
The only reasonably convenient public bags, leather aprons, bows and arrows, musi-
Kuke Buffalo Fence Gate access is via the Matswere gate in the north- cal instruments and woven mats.
Kuke
Leopard Pan
eastern corner of the reserve. The Thakadu Camp (%72-249221; thakadu@botsnet
Tsau
Hills Motopi
e
Mopipi .bw; camping per person US$4, s/d chalet US$30/45; ps)
Pan
sarg
Pas ey
l
Matswere Game
Scout Camp Orapa Sleeping has a modern ablution block with flush toi-
To D'kar (65km); Val
Ghanzi (84km) Sunday Pan
There are basic DWNP camp sites at Decep- lets and hot showers, as well as a refreshing

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ὈὈὈὈὈ ὄ ὄὄ
To D'kar (75km);
Ghanzi (94km)
Passarge
Pan Kori tion Pan, Leopard Pan, Kori, Lekhubu, Letia- swimming pool and a pub-style restaurant
Lamont
Pan l l ey
See Makgadikgadi & Nxai Pan National Park Map (p98) hau Pan, Sunday Pan and Piper’s Pan, but all and bar.
t ion Va
De c e p Deception Pan
lack facilities. The well-known Deception Pan The Kalahari Arms Hotel (%659 6298; kalahariarms
Craill's Pan Lekhubu

er Letiahau Pan
enjoys a few rare, shady acacia trees, while hotel@botsnet.bw; camping per person US$4, s/d US$60/75;
Riv
aha
u Piper’s Pan is known for its bizarre ghost pas) is a long-standing Ghanzi institu-
Leti
trees. Other remote camp sites include Xaka, tion with modern and well-furnished rooms.
Piper's Pan
Molapo Molpapo, Gope and Xade in the southern part The complex has expanded over the years, and

ὄὄ
ὄὈὈὈὈὈὄ ὄ
Nail Pan
of the reserve. Marginally drinkable water is now has a pub, take-away, bakery and bottle
Peloyakukama/ available only at the Matswere Game Scout Camp, shop in addition to its popular dining room.
Ocwe Pan
Xade Okwa River near the northeastern gates of the reserve. In the morning buses run from the main
Okwa
Gate Xaka Sunday
Hill
Deception Valley Lodge (South Africa %27-12 665 terminal to Mamuno (US$3, three hours)
Xade
Metsimanong Metsimanong
8554; www.deceptionvalley.co.za; low/high season per person and Gaborone (US$10, 11 hours); the daily
Xade
Wildlife Pan US$305/550; s) is an exclusive bush retreat lo- bus to Maun (US$4.50, five hours) leaves at

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ὄὄ ὄ ὈὈ
ὄὄ
Camp Xade Pan
cated on the edge of the reserve. It was designed 2.30pm.
Gope
Menatshe to blend into the surrounding nature without
Bibe
detracting from its ambience. The soothing D’KAR
Quox

Quee Pan
Central
Mothomelo rooms combine Victorian and African design The Ncoakhoe San people at the 7500-hectare
Moriso
o Riv

To Ghanzi
(196km) Kalahari GR elements, and feature a private lounge and game ranch Dqãe Qare (%659 6574; www.kuru.co.w;
er

Kikao
outdoor shower. The lodge is approximately admission US$2, camping per person US$5, San huts per person

ὄὄὄ ὄ ὈὈ
ὄὄ
Lokalane 120km from Maun, and the route is accessible without/with half-board US$35/45; p) offer guided
Kukama
Khankhe
Molose
Waterhole
to 2WD vehicles during the dry season. hunting and gathering bushwalks (US$4
Palamakoloi Southern Gate
Pan
per hour), wildlife drives (US$6 per hour),
Tr

Khutse Wildlife Camp Tropic of Capricorn

Getting There & Away and other activities providing insight into
an

Camp Site (Game Scout Camp)

s-K

Xade, Okwa and Deception Pan have air- the lifestyles of the traditional Kalahari San.
ala

All routes in Reserve Khutse GR

ha

suitable for 4WD only

ri

Tsetseng Moreswa strips that attract upmarket fly-in safaris from Transfers from Ghanzi cost US$22.
Hw

Pan Moreswe
y

Salajwe
Pan
Maun.

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Kang
Mabuakolobe
Pan Most Maun-based safari operators can or- KGALAGADI TRANSFRONTIER PARK
Tswaane Pan Khudumelapye
ganise custom drive-in tours, but independ- The former Mabuasehube-Gemsbok National
To Tshane Dutlwe
ent access requires a high-clearance 4WD Park has now been combined with South
(40km)
Motokwe
Takatokwane vehicle, a compass or GPS, and reserve petrol Africa’s former Kalahari-Gemsbok National
Morwamosu Letlhakeng
(the nearest supplies are at Ghanzi, Kang Park into the new Kgalagadi Transfrontier
Mboane
Ditshegwane and Rakops). From Matswere Game Scout Park. The result is one of the world’s largest
LEGEND Camp, it’s 70km to Deception Pan. The al- (28,400 sq km) and most pristine wilderness
GR Game Reserve Kokong
NP National Park
To Lobatse
ternative approach, from Makalamabedi near areas (see p462 for information on the South
To Gaborone
Mabutsane (325km) (128km) the Maun–Nata road, heads south for about African side).
BOTSWANA 122 B OT S W A N A D I R E C T O R Y • • A c c o m m o d a t i o n lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com B OT S W A N A D I R E C T O R Y • • A c t i v i t i e s 123

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Direct road access from Botswana is limited in Gaborone. For fees and booking informa-
to the Mabuasehube and Kaa gates, both via tion, see p85. PRACTICALITIES
Kang and Hukuntsi, while the Nossob River „ Botswana generates electricity at 220 volts AC, 50Hz, though they confusingly use two types
section is best accessed from South Africa. Getting There & Away of plugs: the South African type with its three round prongs, and the UK type with the three
All tracks into the park require a 4WD, reserve square prongs.
Mabuasehube Section petrol and self-sufficiency. The Mabuasehube
„ Daily News, published by the Department of Information & Broadcasting, is distributed free in
The Mabuasehube section of the park (the section has only one entrance gate, which is Gaborone and includes government news, plus major national and international news.
name means ‘Red Earth’), covers 1800 sq km accessed from Tshabong in the south, Huku-
and focuses on the low red dunes around three ntsi in the north or along the cut line from „ Print and slide film, batteries and accessories as well as video cartridges are available in
major pans and several minor ones. Mabuase- Kokotsha (useful if you’re coming from Ga- Gaborone, Francistown and Maun, though it’s not cheap, and you might not find your desired
hube (hfor day visitors 6.30am-6.30pm Mar-Sep, 5.30am- borone). For the Two Rivers section, you can brand.
7.30pm Oct-Feb) is best in late winter and early enter only at Kaa, which is accessed via Kang, „ Nationwide programming is provided by Radio Botswana, broadcasting in both English and
spring when herds of eland and gemsbok mi- Hukuntsi and Tshatswa (Zutshwa), or via Setswana, while most of the country has access to Botswana Television (BTV), which broad-
grate from the rest of the park. This section has South Africa. casts local, African and international news.
eight rudimentary camp sites, for two groups „ Botswana uses the metric system for everything.
of up to 12 people each, at the Entrance Gate,
Lesholoago Pan, Monamodi, Mpaathutlwa Pan,
Bosobogolo Pan and Khiding Pan, as well as two
BOTSWANA DIRECTORY Wildlife & National Parks (DWNP) offices west and several small ranges in the eastern
sites at Mabuasehube Pan. Facilities are limited ACCOMMODATION (see p85). and southeastern parts of the country. Wild-
to pit toilets, but all but Khiding Pan and Boso- Accommodation (with the exception of camp life hikes can also be arranged for guests of
bogolo Pan have water (it’s still wise to carry a sites) is subject to a 10% accommodation Hotels Okavango Delta lodges or participants on
good supply of drinking water). bed tax. Payment by credit card normally Every town has at least one hotel, and larger mokoro safaris.
requires an additional charge of 10% to 12%. towns and tourist areas offer several in dif-
Two Rivers Section Rates given in this chapter are for cash pay- ferent price ranges. However, you won’t find BOOKS
Although you can now reach the Two Rivers ments only. anything as cheap as in most other African General
section from either Kaa or Mabuasehube, ac- In general, a budget double room is any- countries, and the less expensive hotels in Kalahari – Life’s Variety in Dune and Delta,
cess is still best from South Africa. The Two thing under US$50. You’ll then have to make Botswana sometimes double as brothels. by Michael Main, and Okavango – Jewel of
Rivers Camp, over the Nossob River from the leap to US$80 to US$150 for comfortable the Kalahari, by Karen Ross, study the faces
South Africa’s Twee Rivieren Camp, has cold midrange accommodation. Note that there’s Safari Camps & Lodges of the Kalahari and the Okavango Delta, re-
showers and toilets. There are also two basic a real dearth of midrange places in the Oka- Most safari camps and lodges are found spectively, with particular attention to their
sites further north on the Botswanan side: vango Delta, which is largely given over to around Chobe National Park, the Tuli Block, vegetation, wildlife and geological and cul-
Rooiputs, 30km northeast of Two Rivers, and luxury camps and top-end lodges that can set the Linyanti Marshes, the Moremi Game tural histories. They’re full of personality and
Polentswe Pan, at Grootbrak, 223km north of you back around US$300, although this can Reserve and all over the Okavango Delta. good colour photos.
Two Rivers and 60km north of South Africa’s rise stratospherically to around US$500 in the They range from tiny tented camps to large A Story Like the Wind, by Laurens van der
Nossob Camp. delta. Most top-end places quote their prices complexes of brick or reed chalets. While Post, is an entertaining, fictional treatment
in US dollars although payment can be made a few lodges are accessible by car or 4WD, of a meeting between European and San cul-
Wilderness Trails in local currency. most Okavango Delta camps are accessed tures. Its sequel is A Far Off Place.
There are now two challenging wilderness only by air, which will add around US$150 The Sunbird, by Wilbur Smith, is a light
4WD tracks through this remote corner of Camping to US$200 to your bill. All remote camps read telling two fanciful and highly enter-
Botswana. The Kgalakgadi Wilderness Trail, Quite a few hotels and lodges along the road and lodges require pre-booking, but some taining tales about the mythical ‘lost city of
with two obligatory camp sites along the way, system have camp sites with varying amenities road-accessible options around Kasane and the Kalahari’.
is a bone-shaped 285km loop beginning at for around US$7 per person, which normally Maun may accept walk-ins.
Polentswe Pan, at Grootbak on the Nassob includes access to the lodge bar and swim- Guidebooks
River, and winding north to Kaa (where there’s ming pool. Wild camping is permitted only ACTIVITIES African Adventurer’s Guide to Botswana, by
water) before looping back toward the Nossob. outside national parks, private land and gov- Since Botswana is largely a high-budget, low- Mike Main, concentrates on off-road infor-
The other is a two-day 150km route between ernment freehold lands. If you can’t escape volume tourist destination, activity tourism mation, including GPS coordinates, for those
the Nossob and Mabuasehube (there’s also local scrutiny, visit the local kgosi or police focuses on the softer or more expensive op- venturing into the great unknown with their
a parallel transit track to the south), which station to request permission to camp and tions: wildlife viewing, 4WD safaris etc. If own vehicles. It’s available in better book-
can be done only from east to west. Only one get directions to a suitable site. you’re really flush with cash, the sky is the shops around Southern Africa.
group is permitted per day, and must include In national parks, the typically rudimen- limit, and you can choose between elephant
two to five 4WD vehicles. Either route (US$37 tary camps have little more than braai pits or horseback safaris in the Okavango, learn- History & Culture
per person per night) must be pre-booked and flush toilets; many are simply clearings ing to fly in Maun, quadbiking on the Mak- Ditswammung – The Archaeology of Botswana,
through DWNP (Map pp88-9; %318 0774; dwnp@gov in the dust. However, you can’t just turn up gadikgadi Pans, or hiring a 4WD and heading by P Lane, A Redi and A Segobye, is a weighty
.bw; PO Box 131, Government Enclave, Khama Cres, Gaborone; at the park gates and get a camp site; they out into the Kalahari. Hiking opportunities tome, compiled by the Botswana Society, and
hreservations 7.30am-12.45pm & 1.45-4.30pm Mon-Fri) must be pre-booked through Department of are limited to the Tsodilo Hills in the north- is the definitive work for archaeology buffs.
BOTSWANA 124 B OT S W A N A D I R E C T O R Y • • B u s i n e s s H o u r s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com B OT S W A N A D I R E C T O R Y • • Fe s t i v a l s & E v e n t s 125

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History of Botswana, by T Tlou & Alec drinking spots open their doors around 9pm France (Map pp88-9; %/fax 397 3863; 761 Robinson On Safari (www.onsafari.com) Gives details on
Campbell, is the most readable account of (or 10pm) and keep going until 5am. Rd, PO Box 1424) tour companies and lodges in Botswana and Southern
Botswana’s history, from the Stone Age to In this chapter we have only listed opening Germany (%395 3143; fax 395 3038; 3rd fl, Profes- Africa.
modern times. hours where they differ significantly from sional House, Broadhurst, PO Box 315) University of Botswana (www.ub.bw) Provides
A Marriage of Inconvenience: The Persecu- these broad guidelines. Namibia (Map pp88-9; %397 2685; BCC Bldg, 1278 information on history, archaeology, politics, society and
tion of Seretse and Ruth Khama, by Michael Lobatse Rd, PO Box 1586) tourism.
Dutfield, details the negative responses to the CHILDREN UK (Map pp88-9; %395 2841; fax 395 6105; Queen’s Rd,
marriage of Ngwato heir and Botswana’s first Although Botswana is a safe country for chil- Private Bag 0023, the Mall) LANGUAGE
president, Sir Seretse Khama, and English- dren to travel in, be advised that child-related USA (Map pp88-9; %395 3982; fax 395 6947; English is the official language of Botswana
woman Ruth Williams in the 1950s. goods and services are extremely limited, par- pausemb3@botsnet.bw; Government Enclave, Embassy Dr, and the medium of instruction from the fifth
ticularly in the far fringes of the Kalahari and PO Box 90) year of primary school. The most widely spo-
Travel Literature the Okavango Delta. Zambia (Map pp88-9; %395 1951; fax 395 3952; ken language, however, is Setswana, which is
Lost World of the Kalahari, by Laurens van Zambia House, the Mall, PO Box 362) the first language of over 90% of people. For
der Post, is a classic work dealing with the San CUSTOMS Zimbabwe (Map pp88-9; %391 4495; fax 390 5863; more on language, see p772.
people and contains some wonderful back- Botswana is a member of the Southern African Orapa Close, PO Box 1232)
ground on the Tsodilo Hills. The author’s Customs Union, which allows unrestricted MAPS
quest for an understanding of San religion and carriage of certain items between member FESTIVALS & EVENTS The most accurate country map is the Shell
folklore is continued in Heart of the Hunter countries duty free. From outside the union, Botswana stages few major celebratory events. Tourist Map of Botswana, which shows major
and The Voice of the Thunder. you can import up to 400 cigarettes, 50 cigars Gaborone’s Maitisong Festival (%367 1809; fax 358 roads and includes insets of tourist areas and
Starlings Laughing, by June Vendall-Clark, and 250g of tobacco duty free. Edible animal 4946; www.info.bw/~maitisong), in March or April, central Gaborone. Almost as good is Rain-
is a memoir describing the end of the colo- products such as untinned meat, milk and features local and regional music, dance and bird Publishers’ 1:2,500,000 Explorer Map
nial era in Southern Africa. The author spent eggs are confiscated at the border. drama. Celebrations are held all over the Botswana. The 1:1,750,000 Republic of Bot-
many years in the Maun area. country on Sir Seretse Khama Day, President’s swana, published by Macmillan, also contains
Cry of the Kalahari, by Mark & Delia Owens, DANGERS & ANNOYANCES Day and Botswana/Independence Day. insets of Gaborone and the tourist areas. The
is an entertaining and readable account of an The greatest dangers in Botswana are posed detailed ContiMap is a decent road map that
American couple’s seven years studying brown by natural elements, combined with a lack of HOLIDAYS sells for US$10.
hyenas in the Central Kalahari. preparedness. While police and veterinary Public holidays in Botswana include the
With My Soul Amongst Lions and Last of roadblocks, bureaucracy and bored officials following: MONEY
the Free, by Gareth Patterson, carry Joy and may become tiresome, they’re mostly just New Year’s Day 1 January Botswana’s unit of currency is the pula (mean-
George Adamson’s Born Free legacy from a harmless inconvenience. Although theft Day after New Year’s Day 2 January ing ‘rain’), which is divided into 100 thebe
Kenya to Mashatu, in Botswana’s Tuli Block. occurs, Botswana enjoys a very low crime Easter March/April – Good Friday, Holy Saturday and (meaning ‘raindrops’). Bank notes come in
These rather tragic tales may make depressing rate compared with other African (and many Easter Monday denominations of P5, P10, P20, P50 and P100,
reading for anyone inspired by Adamson’s Western) countries. Labour Day 1 May and coins in denominations of 5t, 10t, 25t, 50t,
early efforts and visions. Ascension Day April/May P1, P2 and P5.
EMBASSIES & CONSULATES Sir Seretse Khama Day 1 July
BUSINESS HOURS Botswana Embassies & Consulates President’s Day July ATMs
Normal business hours are 8am to 5pm (often Botswana has embassies and high commis- Botswana/Independence Day 30 September ATMs are common in major cities and towns,
with a one- or two-hour closure for lunch). On sions in Namibia, South Africa, Zambia and Day after Independence Day 1 October and accept most major Western cards.
Saturday shops open around 8am and close at Zimbabwe (see the relevant country chapters), Christmas 25 December
noon or 1pm; on Sunday there’s scarcely any as well as in the following countries. Where Boxing Day 26 December Credit Cards
activity anywhere. In larger towns, banking Botswana has no diplomatic representation, Most major credit cards (especially Visa and
hours are from 9am to 3.30pm Monday to information and visas are available through INTERNET ACCESS MasterCard) are accepted at tourist hotels and
Friday and 8.30am to 11am Saturday. Post the British High Commission. Internet and email access is now available at restaurants in the larger cities and towns.
offices are open from 8.15am to 4pm (closing EU (%32-2-732 2070; fax 735 6312; 169, Ave de internet cafés in Gaborone, Maun, Francis-
for lunch between 12.45am and 2pm). Govern- Tervuren, B-1150 Brussels, Belgium) town, Kasane and Ghanzi, and it’s relatively Moneychangers
ment offices are open from 7.30am to 12.30pm UK (%020-7499 0031; fax 7495 8595; 6 Stratford Pl, fast and inexpensive. The most popular ISP is To change cash, both Barclays and Stand-
and 1.45pm to 4.30pm Monday to Friday. London W1N 9AE) botsnet.bw (www.botsnet.bw), based in Gaborone. ard Chartered banks charge 3% commission,
Restaurant opening hours vary according to USA (%202-244 4990; fax 244 4164; 1531-33 New while the former charges 3% to change travel-
the type of establishment – as a rule cafés and Hampshire Ave NW, Washington, DC 20008) INTERNET RESOURCES lers cheques.
cheap eats will be open all day, closing in early Following is a list of helpful websites:
evening. More expensive restaurants will be Embassies & Consulates in Botswana Botswana Government (www.gov.bw) Contains Tipping
open from around 10.30am to 11pm Monday All of the following are in Gaborone: current news and links to business and government In most places a service charge is added as
to Saturday, usually with a break between lunch Angola (Map pp88-9; %390 0204; fax 397 5089, departments. a matter of course, but the official policy of
and dinner. Run-of-the-mill bars open around angolaemb@info.bw; 5131 Nelson Mandela Rd, Private Bag Info Botswana (www.info.bw) Includes links to tourism courting upmarket tourists only has increased
5pm until late, while nightclubs and late-night BR111, Broadhurst) operators, plus the latest news and weather. expectations.
BOTSWANA 126 T R A N S P O R T I N B OT S W A N A • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T R A N S P O R T I N B OT S W A N A • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 127

BOTSWANA
Travellers Cheques VISAS Also, allow a few empty pages for stamp- crossings between Botswana and Zimbabwe
Travellers cheques are falling into disuse in Visas are not required by citizens of most Com- happy immigration officials, especially if are open from 6am to 8pm and the Kazungula
Botswana, though they can still be changed in monwealth countries, most European countries you’re crossing over to Zimbabwe and/or ferry to Zambia runs from 6am to 6pm. Minor
tourist centres such as Maun and Kasane. or the USA; however, Israelis do need visas. On Zambia to see Victoria Falls. crossings, such as the many crossings over the
entry, everyone is granted a 30-day stay. Members of the EU, the USA, South Africa, Limpopo and Molopo Rivers between Bot-
POST Scandinavia, Balkan countries and all mem- swana and South Africa, are normally open
Although generally reliable, postal services VISA EXTENSIONS bers of the Commonwealth (with the excep- between 8am and 4pm, but close in periods
can be extremely slow, so allow at least two Extensions are available for up to three months. tion of Ghana, India, Sri Lanka, Nigeria and of high water. Some minor crossings close for
weeks for delivery to an overseas address. You may be asked to show an onward air ticket Mauritius) will be granted a one-month entry lunch from 12.30pm to 1.45pm.
Postcards and standard letters (weighing up or proof of sufficient funds for your intended permit on arrival (passport photos required). Those entering by vehicle need current
to 10g) cost P3.10 (US$0.50) to other Afri- stay. For more than a three-month extension, Other nationalities will need to obtain a visa registration papers and third-party insurance
can countries, P3.90 (US$0.70) to Europe apply to the Immigration & Passport Control before they arrive in the country. valid in the Southern African Customs Union.
and P4.70 (US$0.80) to the rest of the world. Officer at the Department of Immigration Head On entry, foreign-registered vehicles are sub-
Designate an airmail letter by clipping one Office (%361 1300; fax 355 2996; cnr State House Dr & Khama Air ject to a road safety levy of US$10.
corner off the envelope. Cres, PO Box 942, Gaborone) before your trip. Botswana’s main airport is Sir Seretse Khama In-
Working visas are also available for non- ternational Airport (GBE; %35 11 91), located 15km NAMIBIA
TELEPHONE & FAX residents – see following. north of the capital Gaborone. Although the The three main border crossings are at Ngoma
Botswana’s country code is %267; there are airport is well served with flights from Jo- Bridge, Mahango–Mohembo and Mamuno–
no internal area codes, so when phoning from WORK hannesburg and Harare, it is seldom used by Buitepos. Note that during the winter months
outside Botswana, dial %267 followed by the Botswana is developing rapidly and the educa- tourists as an entry point into the country. (late May to August), Namibia is one hour
phone number. From Botswana, the interna- tion system cannot produce enough skilled Far more popular are Maun Airport (MUB; %66 behind Botswana.
tional access code is %00, which should be professionals in several fields. Those with 02 38) and Kasane Airport (BBK; %65 01 36). The
followed by the country code, area code (if training and experience as medical doctors, international air departure tax of US$9 is Bus
applicable) and telephone number. secondary school teachers, professors, engi- included in ticket prices. There’s at least one daily combi between
Reliable coin and card telephone boxes are neers and computer professionals will find the The national carrier, Air Botswana, flies Ghanzi and Mamuno (US$3, three hours),
found at Botswana Telecom (Map pp88–9) warmest welcome. Most foreigners choose to routes within Southern Africa. It has offices on the border, but from there, you’ll have to
and post offices, and in shopping centres remain in or around Gaborone, Francistown in Gaborone, Francistown, Maun, Kasane and wait for a minibus on to Gobabis or Wind-
in all major towns. Phonecards in varying or Maun, but if you’re willing to work in Victoria Falls (Vic Falls) in Zimbabwe. hoek. Unfortunately, on the Namibian side
denominations are sold at shops, post offices the bush, your chances of employment will No European or North American airline they only run when full, so you may have to
and some petrol stations. increase. Foreigners are normally granted a flies directly into Botswana. The country is hole up on the border at the useful East Gate
Botswana has two global mobile (cell) three-year renewable residency permit. Appli- only served by two airlines and a number of Petrol Station & Rest Camp.
phone networks, Mascom Wireless (www.mascom cations must be submitted from outside the special charter flights. Most travellers fly into At 7.30am on Monday Audi Camp (%Maun
.bw) and Orange Botswana (www.orange.co.bw), of country to the Department of Immigration (%361 either Johannesburg or Cape Town in South 686 0599, %Windhoek 0811-272870) runs a useful
which Mascom is by far the largest provider. 1300; fax 355 2995; PO Box 942, Gaborone). Africa (both of which are served by an array shuttle service from Maun to Windhoek
Still even Mascom’s coverage is patchy, and Numerous NGOs and international vol- of international and domestic carriers) and (US$55, 10 hours), via Ghanzi. From Wind-
is confined to the eastern corridor from Gab- unteer organisations – the Peace Corps, VSO hop on a connecting flight. hoek, it departs at 7.30am on Wednesday.
orone in the southeast to Francistown in the etc – are also active in Botswana, and accept Air Botswana (BP; %390 55 00; www.airbotswana Pre-booking is essential.
east. Outside of these areas you’ll find recep- volunteer placements. .co.bw; hub Gaborone) Although the Intercape Mainliner bus be-
tion is minimal, with little areas of coverage South African Airways (SA; %020-22 96 63; www tween Windhoek and Victoria Falls passes
over Maun, Ghanzi and Mamuno. This is set .flysas.com; hub Johannesburg) through Kasane, passengers may not em-
to change as the market is moving forward
steadily, and it is worth contacting your mo-
TRANSPORT IN Border Crossings
bark or disembark in Botswana. There are no
cross-border buses through the Mahango–
bile operator. BOTSWANA Overland travel to or from Botswana is usually
straightforward. At border crossings, arriving
Mohembo border crossing.

TOURIST INFORMATION GETTING THERE & AWAY travellers are often requested to clean their Hitching
The continually improving office of the This section covers travel between Botswana shoes, even those packed away in their lug- From Kasane the sealed 54km transit route
Department of Tourism (Map pp88-9; %395 3024; and its neighbouring countries only. Informa- gage, in a disinfectant dip to prevent them through Chobe National Park to Ngoma
fax 390 8675; botswanatourism@gov.bw; 2nd fl, Standard tion on travel to Southern Africa from else- carrying foot-and-mouth disease into the Bridge is relatively well travelled, and doesn’t
Chartered Bank Bldg, the Mall, Private Bag 0047, Gabor- where in Africa or from other continents is country. Vehicles must also pass through a require payment of park fees. Nearly everyone
one) dispenses tourist information and also outlined in the Transport in Southern Africa pit filled with the same disinfectant. refuels at Kasane, so you may want to look
distributes brochures, maps and the annual chapter (p752). Border opening hours change all the time, for lifts at the Shell petrol station, which also
Botswana Focus and Discover Botswana maga- but major crossings between Botswana and serves as the bus terminal. There’s no longer
zines. The offices located in Kasane (%625 Passport Namibia or South Africa generally open any serious strife in Namibia’s Caprivi region,
0357) and Maun (%686 0492) are also becoming All visitors entering Botswana must hold a sometime between 6am and 8am and close so hitching isn’t inordinately risky (see also
more useful. passport that is valid for at least six months. sometime between 6pm and 10pm. The main p131 for more on hitching), but the stretch
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between Kongola and Divundu still sees lit- If you’re hitching from Kasane–Kazangula From Kasane to Victoria Falls, it’s best to flights must be booked as part of a safari pack-
tle traffic. or the Zambian shore of the Zambezi, ask wait for a lift at the Kazungula border post; age with a mandatory reservation at one of
To hitch along the Trans-Kalahari Highway truck drivers about lifts to Livingstone. from Victoria Falls to Kasane, wait at the Kaz- the lodges. This is essential; you can’t simply
from Ghanzi to Gobabis (Namibia), inquire ungula road turn-off 1.5km southeast of the turn up in these remote locations and expect
about lifts at the Kalahari Arms Hotel or the ZIMBABWE town centre (see page 131 for more). to find a bed for the night as many lodges are
Oasis petrol station, both located in Ghanzi. The two most commonly used borders are at very small. Likewise, you are not permitted
Most people head out in the morning. To Ramokgwebana–Plumtree and at Kazungula, GETTING AROUND to book accommodation at a remote lodge
improve your chances, you can also hitch with west of Victoria Falls. There’s also a lesser- Botswana’s public-transport network is limited in the delta without also booking a return air
a Gaborone-bound vehicle to New Junction, used back-road crossing at Pandamatenga. and, at times, expensive. Although domestic fare at the same time. Packages can be booked
40km south of Ghanzi, and wait there; be sure air services are fairly frequent and usually reli- through agencies in Maun.
you have lots of water. Bus able, Air Botswana (and charter flights) are not It is very important to note that passengers
Between Francistown and Bulawayo (US$3.50, cheap and only a handful of towns are regu- on charter flights are only allowed 10kg to
SOUTH AFRICA three hours), buses leave five to seven times larly served. The railway service is inexpensive 12kg of luggage each (check the exact amount
Most overland traffic between Botswana and daily in either direction. Alternatively, take a and dependable, but it is terribly slow and is when booking). However, if you have an extra
South Africa passes through the Ramatlabama, combi from Francistown to Ramokgwebana restricted to one line along the thin populated 2kg to 3kg the pilot will usually only mind if
Tlokweng or Pioneer border crossings. Other (US$1.50, 1½ hours), on the border, and then strip of eastern Botswana. Public buses and the plane is full of passengers.
border crossings serve back roads across the another combi to Bulawayo. combis (minibuses) are also cheap and reason-
Limpopo River, in the Tuli Block, and the Golden Bridge also has a bus service on ably frequent, but are confined to the limited Bicycle
Molopo River in southern Botswana; some of Monday and Friday from Maun to Gweru number of paved roads so the more interesting Botswana is largely flat – and that’s about the
these are impassable to 2WD vehicles, and may (US$11, 10 hours), via Bulawayo (US$5, eight places are not accessible. All in all, hiring a only concession it makes to cyclists. Some
be closed during periods of high water. hours). It returns from Gweru on Wednes- vehicle is the best and most practical. travellers still take a bicycle in the hope of
day and Sunday. The same company also avoiding the uncertainties of hitching and
Bus & Minibus runs a nightly bus from Gaborone (US$5, Air public transport, but unless you’re an experi-
Minibuses between Gaborone and Jo’burg 10 hours). The national carrier, Air Botswana, operates enced cyclist and equipped for the extreme
(US$12, six hours) leave when full, 6am to In Kasane, Thebe River Safaris and Chobe a limited number of domestic flights between conditions, abandon any ideas you may have
5.30pm, from the northwest corner of the Safari Lodge offer Victoria Falls transfers larger towns around the country, namely about a Botswana bicycle adventure. Also
main bus terminal. Minibus services also con- (US$28, two hours). If they don’t have enough Gaborone, Francistown, Maun and Kasane. bear in mind that bicycles are not permitted
nect Lobatse with Mafikeng (US$3, 1½ hours) passengers, ask them to ring around and find They also run occasional packages between in Botswana’s national parks and reserves, and
and run between Palapye and Jo’burg (US$14, a bus that is going. In Victoria Falls, Gareth Gaborone and Maun, including hotels and cyclists may encounter potentially dangerous
eight hours), via Martin’s Drift. McDonald at the Victoria Falls Backpackers’ Lodge sightseeing tours – check with the airline, or wildlife while travelling along any highway
Intercape Mainliner (Gaborone Map pp88-9; %357 (%Victoria Falls 013-42209; www.victoriafallsbackpackers look for advertisements in the local English- or road.
4294; Kudu Shell, Queen’s Rd; Pretoria %012-654 4114; 108 .com; 357 Gibson Rd) runs inexpensive transfers language newspapers.
Klerk St) travels daily between Gaborone and (US$10 per person) to Kazungula, but doesn’t One-way fares are more expensive than re- Bus
Jo’burg (US$18, six hours), leaving Gaborone cross the border. Taxis between Victoria turn fares, so plan your itinerary accordingly; Buses and minibuses travel regularly along
at 6.30am and Jo’burg Station at 3.30pm. Falls and the Kazungula border cost around children aged under two sitting on the lap of all major highway routes in Botswana, but
US$30. an adult cost 10% of the fare and children services are less frequent in the western part
Hitching Although the Intercape Mainliner bus serv- aged between two and 12 cost 50% of the of the country than along the eastern corridor.
Between Botswana and South Africa, hitch- ice between Victoria Falls and Windhoek fare. Passengers are allowed 20kg of luggage With few exceptions, small villages are served
ing is straightforward, especially at the main passes through Kasane, passengers cannot (unofficially, a little more is often permitted only if they lie along major highways. On the
border crossings, but you may be expected to embark or disembark in Botswana. if the flight is not full). most popular runs, minibus services operate
pay for lifts (see p131). For details about the costs and frequency according to demand and depart when full,
Train of domestic flights, and the contact details for while buses follow a fixed schedule. Botswa-
ZAMBIA Due to Zimbabwe’s failure to pay its share of Air Botswana offices, see under Getting There na’s small population means that its public-
Botswana and Zambia (along with Zimba- the costs for the rail link between Gaborone & Away in the relevant regional chapters of transport service is quite limited. In all cases,
bwe and Namibia) share what’s certainly the and Bulawayo, this service no longer oper- this book. there are no advance bookings; tickets are sold
world’s shortest international border – a sin- ates, and it’s unlikely to resume as long as only on board.
gle point in the middle of the Zambezi River. Zimbabwe’s political and economic crises CHARTER FLIGHTS Note that there’s no bus service through
Direct travel between the two countries is on continue. Charter flights are often the best and, some- Chobe National Park between Kasane and
the Kazungula ferry, which operates from times, the only way to reach remote lodges Maun but safari companies offer three-day
6am to 6pm daily and costs US$0.50 per per- Hitching and isolated villages, but they are an expensive 4WD safaris via Moremi Game Reserve (see
son and US$7.50 for motorbikes, US$12 for It is fairly easy to hitch between Francistown extra cost. p132).
cars and US$20 for larger vehicles. If there’s and Bulawayo, using the Ramokgwebana– On average a one-way fare between Maun
a long queue or the ferry isn’t operating, it’s Plumtree border crossing. Mornings are best and a remote lodge in the Okavango Delta Car & Motorcycle
not difficult to reach Livingstone via Victoria for hitching into Botswana, while most after- will set you back around US$100 to US$150. The best way to travel around Botswana is to
Falls, Zimbabwe. noon traffic is headed towards Bulawayo. These services are now highly regulated and hire (or buy) a vehicle. With your own car or
BOTSWANA 130 T R A N S P O R T I N B OT S W A N A • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T R A N S P O R T I N B OT S W A N A • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d 131

BOTSWANA
motorbike, you can avoid public transport Most major international car-rental com- hire your car from make sure you understand ROAD RULES
(which is limited to routes between major panies will allow you to take a vehicle to what is included in the price (unlimited kilo- To drive a car in Botswana, you must be at
towns) and organised tours. The downside is South Africa, Lesotho, Swaziland, Namibia metres, tax, insurance, collision-waiver and so least 18 years old. Like most other Southern
that distances are long and the cost of hiring and Zimbabwe, but only if you have cleared on) and what your liabilities are. Most local African countries, traffic keeps to the left
a vehicle is high in Botswana – but probably it with the company beforehand so they can insurance policies do not include cover for side of the road. The national speed limit is
cheaper in South Africa. sort out the paperwork. Rental companies damage to windshields and tyres. 120km/h on paved roads, 80km/h on gravel
You cannot hire a motorbike in Botswana are less happy about drivers going to Zambia Third-party motor insurance is a minimum roads and 40km/h in all national parks and
and although it can be great fun to ride dirt and will not allow you to go anywhere else in requirement in Botswana. However, it is also reserves. When passing through towns and
bikes along desert tracks, in between are roads Africa. It is possible to hire a car, for example, advisable to take Damage (Collision) Waiver, villages, assume a speed limit of 60km/h, even
and tracks where clouds of dust and sand in Gaborone and return it to Johannesburg which costs around US$20 extra per day for a in the absence of any signs.
kicked up by other vehicles could make for (South Africa) or Windhoek (Namibia), but 2WD, and about US$40 per day for a 4WD. Highway police use radar and love to fine
a miserable experience on a motorbike. It’s this will cost extra. Loss (Theft) Waiver is also an extra worth motorists (about US$10, plus an additional
also important to note that motorbikes are Naturally, always check the paperwork having. For both types of insurance, the excess US$1 for ever 10km you exceed the limit)
not permitted in national parks and reserves carefully and thoroughly examine the vehi- liability is about US$1500 for a 2WD and for speeding. Sitting on the roof of a moving
for safety reasons. cle before accepting it; make sure the 4WD US$3000 for a 4WD. If you’re only going for vehicle is illegal, and wearing seat belts (where
engages properly and that you understand a short period of time it may be worth taking installed) is compulsory in the front (but not
DRIVING LICENCE how it works. Also, check the vehicle fluids, out the Super Collision Waiver, which covers back) seats. Drink-driving is also against the
Your home driving licence is valid for six brakes, battery and so on – the Kalahari is a absolutely everything, albeit at a price. law, and your insurance policy will be invalid
months in Botswana, but if it isn’t written harsh place to find out that the company (or if you have an accident while drunk. Driving
in English you must provide a certified trans- you) has overlooked something important. PURCHASE without a licence is also a serious offence.
lation. In any case, it is advisable to obtain It is probably best to deal with one of the Unless you’re going to be staying in Botswana If you have an accident causing injury, it
an International Driving Permit (IDP). Your major car-rental companies listed below. For for several years, it’s not worth purchasing a must be reported to the authorities within 48
national automobile association can issue this information about hiring a car in South Africa vehicle in-country. The best place to buy a hours. If vehicles have sustained only minor
and it is valid for 12 months. and then driving it to Botswana, see p589. vehicle is across the border in South Africa. damage and there are no injuries – and all
Avis (www.avis.com) Offices in Gaborone, Francistown, For more information on purchasing a vehicle parties agree – you can exchange names and
FUEL & SPARE PARTS Maun, Kasane and all over Southern Africa. in South Africa see p761. addresses and sort it out later through your
The cost of fuel (petrol) is relatively expensive Budget (www.budget.co.za) Offices in Gaborone, as well If you do buy a car with hard currency insurance companies.
in Botswana, around US$0.75 per litre, but as in South Africa, Zimbabwe and Namibia. and resell it in Botswana, you can remit the Wild animals, including elephants and the
prices vary according to the remoteness of Imperial (www.imperialcarrental.co.za) Offices in same amount of hard currency to your home estimated three million wild donkeys in Bot-
the petrol station. Petrol stations are open Gaborone and Francistown, and in the major cities of South country without hassles – just keep the papers swana, can also be a hazard, even along the
24 hours in Gaborone, Francistown, Maun, Africa, Namibia and Zambia. and inform the bank in advance. highways. The Maun–Nata and Nata–Kasane
Mahalapye and Palapye; elsewhere, they open Tempest (www.tempestcarhire.co.za) This large South roads are frequently trafficked by elephants
from about 7am to 7pm daily. African–based company has offices in Gaborone and ROAD CONDITIONS and should be driven with caution. The
As a general rule you should never pass a throughout South Africa, and in Namibia. At the time of independence in 1966, Bot- chances of hitting a wild or domestic animal
service station without filling up and it’s advis- swana’s only paved road extended for 5km is far, far greater after dark, so driving at night
able to carry an additional 100L of fuel (either Additional charges will be levied for the fol- from the Lobatse train station to the High is definitely not recommended.
in long-range tanks or jerry cans) if you’re lowing: a fee for may be charged for dropping Court building. (The road was completed One common but minor annoyance is the
planning on driving in more remote areas. off or picking up the car at your hotel (rather in 1947 in preparation for the visit by King so-called ‘buffalo fences’ (officially called Vet-
Spare parts are readily available in most than the car-rental office); a ‘tourism levy’ of George VI.) erinary Cordon Fences; see p85). These are
major centres, but not elsewhere. If you are 1% is sometimes charged (but this seems fairly These days good paved roads link all the set up to stop the spread of disease from wild
planning on some 4x4 driving it is advisable arbitrary); a ‘cleaning fee’ (which can amount major population centres. Tracks with sand, animals to livestock. Unless you’re driving,
to carry the following: two spare tyres, jump to US$50!) may be incurred at the discretion of mud, gravel and rocks (and sometimes all or travelling in, a cattle truck, simply slow
leads, tow rope and cable, a few litres of oil, the rental company; and a ‘service fee’ may be four) – but normally accessible by 2WD ex- down while the gate is opened and make an
wheel spanner and a complete tool kit. See added. Also check to make sure the government cept during exceptional rains – connect most effort to offer a friendly wave to the bored
p103 for more about bush driving. sales tax (10%) is included. Most companies can villages and cross a few national parks. gate attendant.
If you’re renting a hire car make sure you also provide baby seats, for an extra cost. Most other ‘roads’ are poorly defined and
check you have a working jack (and know how It is nearly always advisable to pay with a badly mapped tracks that should only be at- HITCHING
to use it!) and a spare tyre. ‘gold level’ credit card, which will offer you tempted by 4WD. In the worst of the wet Hitching in Botswana is an accepted way
some protection should anything go wrong season (December to February), 4WDs should to get around given that public transport is
HIRE and will possibly cover you for collision as carry a winch on some tracks (eg through sometimes erratic in remote areas. There are
To rent a car you must be aged at least 21 well. Chobe National Park); and a compass or, even established rates for main routes. Trav-
(some companies require drivers to be over better, global positioning system (GPS) equip- ellers who decide to hitch, however, should
25) and have been a licensed driver in your INSURANCE ment. A GPS is essential for driving by 4WD understand that they are taking a small but
home country for at least two years (some- Although insurance is not compulsory, it is around the saltpans of the Kalahari or north- potentially serious risk. People who do choose
times five). strongly recommended. No matter who you eastern Botswana at any time. to hitch will be safer if they travel in pairs
 © Lonely Planet Publications
BOTSWANA 132 T R A N S P O R T I N B OT S W A N A • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T R A N S P O R T I N B OT S W A N A • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d 133

BOTSWANA
and let someone know where they are plan- A good place to start is at Travel Wild (%686 African border, and was once part of the glo- cistown, via Gaborone, Pilane, Mahalapye,
ning to go. 0822; fax 686 0493; travelwild@dynabyte.bw), opposite rious Johannesburg–Bulawayo train service, Palapye, Serule and other villages.
The equivalent of a bus fare will frequently the airport, which serves as a central booking which is now sadly defunct. Although cheap Schedules and tickets are available at all
be requested in exchange for a lift, but to and information office for lodges, safaris and and reliable it is painfully slow and serves train stations, but reservations are only pos-
prevent uncomfortable situations at the end other adventures. places of little or no interest to the tourist. sible at Gaborone, Francistown and Lobatse
of the ride determine a price before climb- The following Botswana tour operators are There are two different types of train – the (for trips beyond Gaborone). For 1st and
ing in. recommended: quicker and more expensive ‘day train’, and 2nd class, advance bookings are essential;
Afro-Trek (Map p110; %686 0177; www.afrotrek.com; the slower and cheaper ‘night train’. Both economy-class passengers can buy a ticket in
Local Transport Shorobe Rd, Maun) This company specialises in midmarket travel the route between Lobatse and Fran- advance or on the train.
Public transport in Botswana is geared towards safaris, and is located in the Sedia Hotel (p111).
the needs of the local populace and is confined Audi Camp Safaris (Map p110; %686 0500; www
to main roads between major population hubs. .okavangocamp.com; Mathiba I St, Maun) This budget
Although cheap and reliable, it is of little use operator is run out of the popular Audi Camp (p109).
to the traveller as most of Botswana’s tourist Back to the Bridge Backpackers (Map p110;
attractions are off the beaten track. %686 2406; hellish@info.bw; Shorobe Rd, Maun) This
budget operator is run out of Back to the Bridge Back-
COMBI (MINIBUSES) packers (p111).
Combis, recognisable by their blue number- Bathusi Travel & Safaris (%686 0647; www.info.bw
plates, circulate according to set routes /~bathusi; Tsheko Rd, Maun) This company specialises in
around major towns such as Gaborone, Kas- upmarket safaris, and is located next to Riley’s Garage.
ane, Ghanzi, Molepolole, Mahalapye, Pala- Crocodile Camp Safaris (Map p110; %686 0265;
pye, Francistown, Selebi-Phikwe, Lobatse www.botswana.com; Shorobe Rd, Maun) This budget
and Kanye. operator is located at the Crocodile Camp (p111).
Island Safari Lodge (Map p110; %686 0300;
TAXI island@info.bw; Mathiba I St, Maun) This budget operator
Licensed taxis are also recognisable by their is run out of the Island Safari Lodge (p111).
blue numberplates. They rarely bother Maun Rest Camp (Map p110; %686 3472;
hanging around the airports at Gaborone, simonjoyce@info.bw, Shorobe Rd, Maun) This budget
Francistown, Kasane and Maun, so the only operator specialises in mobile safaris, and is run out of the
reliable transport from the airport is usually Maun Rest Camp (p109).
a courtesy bus operated by a top-end hotel or Ker & Downey (Map p110; %686 0375; www.ker
lodge. These are free for guests but anyone downey.com; Mathiba I St) One of Botswana’s most
else can normally negotiate a fare with the exclusive tour operators.
bus driver. Taxis are always available to the Okavango River Lodge (Map p110; %686 3707;
airports, however. freewind@info.bw; Shorobe Rd, Maun) This budget
It is not normal for taxis to cruise the streets operator is run out of the Okavango River Lodge (p109).
for fares – even in Gaborone. If you need one, Okavango Tours & Safaris (Map p110; %686 1154;
telephone a taxi company to arrange a pick- www.okavango.bw; Mophane St, Maun) This well-
up or go to a taxi stand (usually near the bus established operator specialises in upmarket lodge-
or train stations). Fares for taxis are negoti- based tours.
able but fares for occasional shared taxis are Phakawe Safaris (Map p110; %686 4337; www
fixed. Taxis can be chartered – about US$45 .phakawe.demon.co.uk; Sir Seretse Khama Rd) This
to US$60 per day, although this is negotiable reader-recommended operator runs informal participation
depending on how far you want to go. safaris, and is housed in a bright-orange building called
the Pumpkin Patch.
Tours Wilderness Safaris (Johannesburg %(27) 11 807
From Maun (p106), which is the traditional 1800; www.wilderness-safaris.com) This operator
jumping-off point for the Okavango Delta, specialises in upmarket safaris and is located near the
it’s also easy to book tours to other parts of airport.
Botswana, most notably to Chobe National © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
Park, Tsodilo Hills and the Central Kalahari Train restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
Game Reserve. These excursions are often The Botswana railway system is limited to only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
added to the end of delta tours. Maun is also one line running along eastern Botswana. It
the base for overland safaris to Kasane via stretches from Ramokgwebana on the Zimba- everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
Chobe National Park. bwean border to Ramatlhabama on the South the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
 © Lonely Planet Publications
134 lonelyplanet.com L E S OT H O • • H i g h l i g h t s 135

Lesotho
to the remote Sehlabathebe National Park
HOW MUCH? (p147) or Mt Moorosi (p151).

Traditional dance/cultural group
One month Head northeast to Teyateyaneng
US$4.50-22 (p145) and Butha-Buthe (p146), with a side
trip to the beautiful Bokong Nature Reserve

Internet US$0.10-0.20 per minute
(p146) or Ts’ehlanyane National Park (p146).

Coffee US$0.35-1.20 Then take in some of the country’s most

Banana US$0.15 impressive scenery on a circuit to Mokhot-
Lesotho (le-soo-too) is called Southern Africa’s ‘kingdom in the sky’ for good reason. This long (p147) and up to the magnificent Sani

Genuine (wool) Basotho blanket
stunningly beautiful, mountainous country is nestled island-like in the middle of South Africa Top (p147). Return to Maseru via Thaba-
US$60
and it is a fascinating travel detour from its larger neighbour. The country offers superb Tseka (p146) and the Katse Dam (p145), or
mountain scenery in forbidding terrain, a proud traditional people, endless hiking trails, LONELY PLANET INDEX via the Mohale Dam (p144) and Roma (p144),
before heading east to Morija (p149) and
LESOTHO

LESOTHO
and the chance to explore remote areas on Basotho ponies.
1L petrol $0.90 following the two-week itinerary. Note:
The ‘lowland’ areas (all of which are still above 1000m) offer some craft shopping and
1L bottled water US$0.80-1 unfortunately it’s difficult to circumnavi-
gate the country – the road between Seh-
dinosaur footsteps, while the highlands in the northeast and centre feature towering peaks
Bottle of beer US$1
labathebe in the east and Sehonghong in
(over 3000m) and verdant valleys.
Souvenir T-shirt US$4.50-9 the northeast requires a 4WD.

Bag of fat cakes (fried savoury
Lesotho came into being during the early 19th century, when both the difaqane (forced donuts) US$0.30 CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO
migration) and Boer incursions into the hinterlands were at their height. Under the leader- Clear, cold winters, with frosts and snow (and
ship of the legendary king Moshoeshoe the Great, the Basotho people sought sanctuary and unpredictable changes) in the highlands, await
strategic advantage amid the forbidding terrain of the Drakensberg and Maluti Ranges. The HIGHLIGHTS you in Lesotho, so pack warm clothing. During

Malealea (p149) Pony trekking through summertime (late November to March), dra-
small nation they forged continues to be an intriguing anomaly in a sea of modernity. the rugged interior with breathtaking matic thunderstorms are common, as are all-
Getting around is reasonably easy – ordinary hire cars will get you to most places; public
scenery. enveloping clouds of thick mist, and roads can

Sani Top (p147) Absorbing the awesome be affected by flooding rivers. Temperatures
transport is extensive, albeit slow. Hiking or pony trekking from village to village are the vistas from Sani Pass and hiking the chal- at this time can rise to over 30°C in the val-
best ways of exploring. lenging wilderness hikes of the northern leys, though it’s usually much cooler in the
highlands. mountains, even dropping below freezing.

Ts’ehlanyane National Park (p146) Revelling Most of Lesotho’s rain falls between October
in the splendid isolation of this stunning and April. Throughout the year, the weather
park. is notoriously changeable.

Off the beaten track (p148) Hiking from Visits are possible at any time, with spring
Semonkong in the beautiful Thaba Putsoa and autumn optimal.
mountains to the Ketane Falls.
HISTORY
FAST FACTS ITINERARIES Lesotho was settled by Sotho peoples as late as

Area: 30,355 sq km
One week From Maseru (p140), head south the 16th century. The Khoisan, and possibly
to Morija (p149) where you’ll find Morija some Nguni people, lived among them, inter-

Capital: Maseru
Museum & Archives, a great museum marrying and mingling their languages.

Country code:%266 with Basotho culture displays. Continue The early society was made up of small chief-

Famous for: Ponies, royalty, dams, Basotho to Malealea (p149) or Semonkong (p148) – doms. Cattle and cultivation were the econ-
hats and blankets the ‘gems’ of Lesotho – to go pony trek- omy’s mainstays. Their products were traded
king. You may be able to squeeze in a for iron from the northeast of South Africa.

Languages: South Sotho, English
trip to Quthing (Moyeni; p150) to check By the early 19th century white traders

Money: Loti (plural maloti) out the 180-million-year-old dinosaur were on the scene, exchanging beads for cattle.

Phrases: khotso (hello, or literally ‘peace’); footprints. They were soon followed by the Voortrekkers
kea legoha (thank you)
Two weeks Visit Teyateyaneng (p145), north (Boer pioneers) and pressure on Sotho grazing
of Maseru, the craft centre of Lesotho, or lands grew. Even without white encroach-

Population: 2.1 million
slightly further north, Bokong Nature Re- ment, Sotho society had to accept that it had
serve (p146). Get a taste of the mountain- expanded as far as it could and would have to
ous ‘lowlands’ by heading to Morija (p149), adapt to living in a finite territory. On top of
Malealea (p149) or Semonkong (p148), and this came the disaster of the difaqane (forced
Quthing (p150). Continue northeast on migration; see p41).
 136 L E S OT H O • • H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com L E S OT H O • • H i s t o r y 137

LESOTHO 0
0
50 km
30 miles
Society. In return for a degree of Christia- of South Africa was created, Basotholand was
nisation of Sotho customs, the missionaries classified as a British Protectorate and was not

ὈὈ
To Bethlehem

Winburg Rosendal
(33km)
Clarens
LEGEND were disposed to defend the rights of ‘their’ included in the Union.
R707 NP National Park
Basotho against the new threat – British and

Wittebe
Fouriesburg Phuthadithaba NR National Reserve
FREE STATE
(SOUTH AFRICA) Monantsa Pass
GR Game Reserve
FR Forest Reserve Boer expansion. Home Rule & Independence
Caledonspoort
The Boers had crossed the Orange River In 1910 the advisory Basotholand National

rg
R616
WA Wilderness Area
Marquard Joel's Drift Khatibe
R709
Butha-Buthe
To Bloemfontein R708
Dinosaur
Footprints
'Muela
Oxbow
Moteng Pass Mount-aux- in the 1830s, and by 1843 Moshoeshoe was Council was formed from members nomi-
Sources
(207km) Ficksburg
Subeng River
Khabo
(2820m)
(3282m) sufficiently concerned by their numbers to nated by the chiefs. After decades of allega-

Rv
Allandale

er
Ficksburg Bridge
ally himself with the British Cape government. tions of corruption and favouritism, reforms

Riv
Leribe (Hlotse)

o
bamat's
Clocolan Maputsoe Liphofung Cave
ver

Peka Bridge Tsikoane Cultural Historical Mothae The British Resident, installed in Basotholand in the 1940s introduced some democratic
Ri

Excelsior R703 Ts'ehlanyane

Peka Site
as a condition of the treaties, decided Moshoe- processes into council appointments.
n)

Pitseng NP

Mali
Champagne
do

Koeneng Mafika-Lisiu Castle

ale

)
shoe was too powerful and engineered an In the mid-1950s the council requested

(Orange
A1 Pass (3090m)
Tweespruit (3377m)

Dr
(C

Mapoteng Bokong Ha Lejone

unsuccessful attack on his kingdom. internal self-government from the British.

ak
Marseilles Teyateyaneng
re

NR

en
LESOTHO

LESOTHO
ka

Motsitseng

sb
In 1854 the British withdrew from the area, In 1960 a new constitution was in place and
ho

Ladybrand

er
To Bloemfontein Seshote
Mo

g
ὈὈ
(157km) Berea Plateau Sefikeng
Ha
MASERU Qiloane Hill Ce Sepinare
Katse
Dam Mokhotlong Upper having fixed the boundaries of Basotholand. elections were held for a Legislative Council.
Maseru Mohale Molumong Giant's Castle
Bridge Thaba-Bosiu
Ha Baroana
Dam
nt
ra Katse Katse Dam
Visitors Centre Thabana-
The Boers pressed their claims on the land, Meanwhile, political parties had formed,
Nazareth
and increasing tension led to the Free State– including the Basotholand Congress Party
l
Likalaneng Upper Ntlenyana

u
Mazenod Molimo-
R

nq
Qeme Plateau Rafolatsane (3482m)
an
Nthuse Basotho Wars of 1858 and 1865. After success (BCP), similar to South Africa’s African Na-

Se
Roma Thaba-
Hobhouse A3 Marakabei
ge

Tseka
Ngope Ts'oeu
Matsieng
Makhaleng Linakeng in the first war, Moshoeshoe was forced in tional Congress (ANC), and the Basotholand
A2 God Help Mantsonyane Sani Pass
Morija e A5
Me Pass Mokhoabong
Taung
Sani Top the second to sign away much of his western National Party (BNP), a conservative party
an Ramabanta Pass rg
Senqu

u lowlands. headed by Chief Leabua Jonathan.

ea r

Jammersdrif Motsekuoa
oa

e
Hodgson's
a

sb
Wepener Thaba Putsoa Sehonghong
so

Peaks Himeville
Moshoeshoe again called on British as- The BCP won the 1960 elections, then de-
P lkh

LESOTHO
at

D ra ke n
(3096m)
ut

Van Rooyens Makhakhe

nyane

(3257m)
a

aP

Gate
M

Pitseng Gorge Semonkong Matebeng sistance in 1868, this time on the imperial manded, and won, a new constitution that
ab

Mafeteng Botso'ela Waterfall Underberg

Th

Pitseng Plateau Matebeng Pass

Riv

Borata
Malealea Ketane Maletsunyane Mavuka government in London. A high commission paved the way to full independence from Brit-
River

R Nkonkoana Gate/
er

Qaba Gates of Falls (Lebehane) Falls

26 Sephapo's
Gate Paradise Pass Christ the Paolosi Bushman's Nek adjudicated the dispute and the result was the ain in 1966. However, after the 1965 elections
ve ng

Masemouse Sehlabathebe NP
King Mission
loss of more Basotho land. It was obvious that the BCP lost power to the BNP, and Chief
Ri hale
r

Mokopung Tsoelike R617

Mpharane
ak

Sekake Ramatseliso's Kingscote no treaty between Boers and Basotho would Jonathan became the first prime minister of
M

Maletsunyane Mpiti
River u (Orange) Gate
Mohale's Hoek Senq
A4 Qacha's Nek KWAZULU-NATAL hold for long. Continual war between the the new Kingdom of Lesotho. During the elec-
Makhaleng Bridge (SOUTH AFRICA)
A2 Mt Moorosi Mphaki EASTERN CAPE
Mafube Free State and Basotholand was not good for tion campaign the BNP promised cooperation
Zastron
Mekaling (SOUTH AFRICA) New Amalfi
Swartberg British interests, so the British annexed Ba- with the South African apartheid regime and
Mosehle
Tosing
Mt Moorosi
(2356m)
Ongeluksnek
Matatiele sotholand and handed it to the Cape Colony in turn received massive support from it.
iver
Palmietfontein
Quthing Ralebona Sigoga Cedarville to run in 1871. As most of the civil service was still loyal
ran ge) R Tele Bridge (Moyeni) Qomoqomong
R to the BCP, Jonathan did not have an easy
u (O Bonny
Senq Sterkspruit 56

R392
Dinosaur
Footprints Ben Macdhui
Kinirapoort Ridge
After Moshoeshoe the Great time. Stripping King Moshoeshoe II of the few
Lundean's Nek
(2226m)
(3001m) Kokstad The year after Moshoeshoe the Great’s death, powers that the new constitution had left him
Tele
R
Lundean's Nek
Falls squabbles over succession divided the coun- did not endear Jonathan’s government to the
58 Lady Grey Mount Fletcher
try. The Cape government exploited this and people, and the BCP won the 1970 election.
reduced the powers of chiefs, limiting them Jonathan responded to the election results
The rapid consolidation and expansion of refugees who helped in his defence. Later in to their individual areas. by suspending the constitution, arresting and
the Zulu state under the leadership of Shaka the same year he moved his people to Thaba- The Gun War of 1880 began as a protest expelling the king, and banning opposition
(see p41), and later Dingaan, resulted in a Bosiu (Mountain at Night), a mountain top against the Cape government’s refusal to allow parties. The king was eventually allowed to
chain reaction of turmoil throughout the that was even easier to defend. the Basotho to own firearms, but it quickly return from exile in Holland, and Jonathan
whole of Southern Africa. That the loosely From Thaba-Bosiu, Moshoeshoe played a became a battle between the rebel chiefs on attempted to form a government of national
organised Southern Sotho society survived patient game of placating the stronger local one side and the government and collaborat- reconciliation. This ploy was partly successful,
this period was largely due to the abilities rulers and granting protection – as well as ing chiefs on the other. The war ended in a but some BCP members, including the leader
of Moshoeshoe (pronounced mo-shesh) the land and cattle – to refugees. These people stalemate with the Cape government being Ntsu Mokhehle, resisted and attempted to
Great. were to form Basotholand, which, by the time discredited. stage a coup in 1974. The coup failed miser-
of Moshoeshoe’s death in 1870, had a popula- A shaky peace followed until another war ably and resulted in the death of many BCP
Moshoeshoe the Great tion of more than 150,000. appeared imminent, and in 1884 the British supporters and the jailing or exile of the BCP
Moshoeshoe began as a leader of a small vil- The welcome Moshoeshoe gave to mis- government again took direct control of Ba- leadership.
lage and in around 1820 he led his villagers sionaries, and his ability to take their ad- sotholand. The imperial government decided Jonathan changed tack in his attitude to
to Butha-Buthe (Place of Lying Down). From vice without being dominated by them, was to back strong local leaders rather than rule South Africa, calling for the return of land
this mountain stronghold his people survived another factor in Basotholand’s emergence through its own officers, which helped to in the Orange Free State that had been stolen
the first battles of the difaqane and in 1824 and survival. The first missionaries arrived stabilise the country. One unexpected benefit from the original Basotholand, and, more
Moshoeshoe began his policy of assisting in 1833 from the Paris Evangelical Missionary of direct British rule was that when the Union seriously from the South African point of
 138 L E S OT H O • • H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com L E S OT H O • • T h e C u l t u re 139

view, criticising apartheid, allegedly offering can Development Community (SADC) treaty THE CULTURE RELIGION
refuge to ANC guerrillas, and flirting with partners, Botswana, South Africa and Zim- The National Psyche Around 80% of the population is believed to
Cuba. Relations soured; South Africa closed babwe, to help restore order. Troops, mainly Pride is at the core of the Basotho people, not be Christian (mainly Roman Catholic, An-
Lesotho’s borders, strangling the country. South African, invaded the kingdom. surprisingly given the incredible history of glican and Episcopal). The remaining 20%
The Lesotho military took action. Jonathan Rebel elements of the Lesotho army put their nation. The Basotho are remarkably free live by traditional Basotho beliefs. There are
was deposed in 1986 and the king was restored up a strong resistance and there was a short of the effects of apartheid and warmly wel- many churches throughout the country, many
as head of state. This was a popular move, burst of heavy fighting in Maseru, where many come travellers to their kingdom. Like their of which were (or continue to be) built by
but eventually agitation for democratic re- shops and other businesses were looted and African neighbours, they have a wonderfully missionaries (see p136).
form rose again. In 1990 King Moshoeshoe torched. carefree attitude to time. The traditional
II was deposed by the army in favour of his The government agreed to call new elec- class system has altered – herding, once a ARTS & CRAFTS
son, Prince Mohato Bereng Seeisa (Letsie tions, but the political situation remained revered position, is done by the poorest boys Architecture
III). Elections in 1993 resulted in the return tense and political wrangling delayed the elec- (many families are said to sell their sons to Traditional Basotho huts, also known as ron-
of the BCP. tions until May 2002. The LCD won again wealthy families to be herders), although the davels, are one-room huts that serve as the
LESOTHO

LESOTHO
The BCP was split between those who and Prime Minister Pakalitha Mosisili began population continues to rely on and respect living area, kitchen and bedroom. Most ron-
wanted Prime Minister Ntsu Mokhehle a second five-year term, which has until now its community chiefs. The Basotho blanket, davels are made of stone (plastered over with
to remain as leader and those who didn’t. been peaceful. worn proudly by many in the rural areas, mud) and have thatched roofs. Many are ex-
Mokhehle formed the breakaway Lesotho reflects one’s status in the community, ac- quisitely decorated with murals, often imbued
Congress for Democracy (LCD) party and Lesotho Today cording to the quality, material and design with symbols and meaning, such as visual
continued to govern. The elections of 2007 may bring challenges of the blanket itself. prayers for rain. For further information,
In 1995 Letsie III abdicated in favour of of another kind. Questions being considered you might like to check out African Painted
his father and, five years after being deposed, are whether to back Mosisili for a third term, Daily Life Houses by Gary N Van Wyk (1998).
Moshoeshoe II was reinstated. He restored whether corruption is being tackled vigor- Traditional culture, which is still strong,
calm to Lesotho after a year of unrest. Tragi- ously enough, and whether the grass roots is consists largely of the customs, rites and su- Music
cally, less than a year later he was killed when being neglected in favour of a more gentri- perstitions with which the Basotho explain Music and dance are important components
his 4WD plunged over a cliff in the Maluti fied party. and enrich their lives. Music also plays an of ceremony and everyday life. There are vari-
Mountains. Letsie III was again made the Meanwhile, Lesotho ranks among the re- important part in their lives (see right). ous musical instruments, from the lekolulo
king. gion’s poorer countries, and has few natural Traditional medicine mixes rites and cus- (a flutelike instrument played by herd boys),
resources other than water and gem dia- toms with a sangoma (witchdoctor), who to the thomo (a stringed instrument played
Elections, Invasion & Peace monds. During the last century, Lesotho’s develop their own charms and rituals. The by women) and the setolo-tolo (a stringed
Elections were held in 1998 amid accusations main export was labour – approximately 60% Basotho are traditionally buried in a sitting instrument played with the mouth, by men).
of widespread cheating by the LCD, which of males worked mainly in mining in South position, facing the rising sun – ready to leap For more information see p52.
won with a landslide. Tensions between the Africa. In the late 1990s, the restructuring up when called.
public service and the government became of the South African gold-mining industry, Poverty and death is ever-present in Le- Tapestry Weavings
acute, and the military was also divided. mechanisation and the closure of some mines sotho. Life for most people is harsh, with the Tapestry and rug weaving is practised in many
Meanwhile, Mokhehle handed over to his resulted in huge job losses. Meanwhile, the majority determinedly trying to eke out a regions of Lesotho and good-quality items can
successor Pakalitha Mosisili. Lesotho economy – under transformation due living on the land or subsistence agriculture, be found around the country, especially around
Following months of protests, the govern- to a rapid growth of the textile industry – also especially livestock; unemployment currently Teyateyaneng and on the fringes of Maseru.
ment realised it was losing control and in collapsed due to stiff competition from China stands at about 45%. The spectre of AIDS is Often, the woven pieces convey typical life in
September 1998 called on the Southern Afri- and changes to international agreements. high – the infection rate (adult prevalence) is the villages, with bright figures undertaking
estimated at a massive 30%. daily activities or celebrations. Most handwoven
Most Lesotho in rural communities live in goods are from pure wool and mohair. Other
FAMINE IN LESOTHO rondavels, round huts with mud walls (often handicrafts specific to the area include Basotho
Lesotho, particularly rural Lesotho, is extremely vulnerable to food shortages; the mountain decorated) and thatched roofs. hat baskets and grass and clay products.
kingdom’s annual cereal production is declining because of unpredictable weather, long-term
soil erosion and the impact of HIV/AIDS. On top of this, the country faces trade constraints and Population ENVIRONMENT
declining employment opportunities, leaving many vulnerable to food insecurity. Subsistence The citizens of Lesotho are known as the The Land
farming used to be the main food source for most people, but today many rent out their land Basotho people. Most are Southern Sotho From Lesotho’s northern tip to its western
for others to cultivate, thereby losing their ability to grow their own food. Per capita agricultural and most speak South Sotho. The melding side where it juts out almost to the town of
production in real terms has been falling for decades, and today, tens of thousands of the most of the Basotho nation was largely the result Wepener in South Africa, the border is formed
vulnerable people are relying on external food aid. The World Food Programme estimates that of Moshoeshoe the Great’s 19th-century by the Mohokare (Caledon) River. The eastern
26% of the population is malnourished. Many people in the country’s lowlands do not have military and diplomatic triumphs; many border is defined by the rugged escarpment
access to water for domestic use, and travel long distances each day to fetch it, an irony given diverse subgroups and peoples have some- of the Drakensberg Range, and high country
that the Lesotho Highlands Water Project supplies South Africa with millions of cubic metres of how merged into a homogeneous society. forms much of the southern border.
water each year (see the boxed text, p145). Maseru, with a population of 175,000, is the All of Lesotho exceeds 1000m in altitude,
largest town. with peaks in the central ranges and near the
 140 MA S E R U lonelyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com MA S E R U • • O r i e n t a t i o n 141

Drakensberg reaching to more than 3000m. of times. Serious erosion exists in Lesotho ORIENTATION Nedbank (Kingsway) Does forex transactions Monday
Lesotho has the highest lowest point of any due to the pressures of modern farming Most food and shops are found on Maseru’s to Friday.
country. The tallest mountain in Southern techniques and overgrazing. Heavy summer main street, Kingsway (paved in 1947 for a Standard Bank (Kingsway) Has an ATM.
Africa (the highest point south of Mt Kili- rains wash away unacceptably large amounts visit by the British royals). Kingsway runs
manjaro) is the 3482m Thabana-Ntlenyana, of topsoil, as well as create dongas (eroded from the border crossing at Maseru Bridge Post
near Sani Pass in eastern Lesotho. gullies). Action is being taken to tackle ero- right through town to the Circle, a traffic Post office (cnr Kingsway & Palace Rd) Has unreliable
sion, including the reclamation of dongas roundabout and landmark. At the Circle the poste restante.
Wildlife through the building of rock dams–cum- street splits to become two important high-
ANIMALS terraces to capture silt and detritus, but in ways: Main North Rd (for Teyateyaneng and Telephone
Due mainly to its altitude, Lesotho is home to the future, large tracts of land will become points north) and Main South Rd (for Mo- Public phone shop (LNDC Centre, Kingsway) Public
fewer animals than many Southern African uncultivatable. hale’s Hoek and points south). A bypass road telephones can be found here.
countries. You may come across rheboks and There are also serious environmental con- rims the city to the south.
reedbucks, and in the Drakensberg, elands are cerns about the controversial Lesotho High- Tourist Information & Travel Agencies
LESOTHO

LESOTHO
still present. Baboons and jackals are reason- lands Water Project, which provides water Maps City Centre Maseru Travel (%2231 4536; Kingsway)
ably common and there are also mongooses and electricity to South Africa (see the boxed The Department of Land, Surveys & Physical Plan- In the Book Centre building next to Nedbank; does regional
and meerkats. text, p145). Traditional Basotho communities ning (%2232 2376; Lerotholi Rd; h9am-3pm Mon-Fri) and international flight bookings. It can also arrange
The bird life is rich, with just under 300 have been disrupted by the project and the sells good topographic maps. The tourist tickets for Intercape and other long-distance buses.
species recorded. The Drakensberg is an ex- Mohale Dam is said to have flooded some of information office has free maps of Maseru Tourist information office (%2231 2427;
cellent place for bird-watching, and bearded the most fertile land in the country. There is city. touristinfo@ltdc.org.ls; Kingsway; h8am-4.30pm Mon-
vultures and black eagles are both found here. also concern about the potential effect on the Fri, 8.30am-5pm Sat) Managed by the Lesotho Tourism
Lesotho is one of the few places you may spot ecology of the Senqu (Orange) River and the INFORMATION Development Corporation, this is a helpful office that has
the extremely rare bald ibis. impact on Namibia, a downstream user with Bookshops lots of brochures, lists of tour guides, information on public
its own water shortage problems; these are all Basotho Hat (%2232 2523; Kingsway; h8am-5pm transport and free Maseru city maps.
PLANTS troubling unknowns. Mon-Sat) This craft shop has books on Lesotho.
The high plains and mountains are home to In order to protect and develop the eastern- Maseru Book Centre (Kingsway; h8am-4.30pm DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Cape alpine flowers. The national flower, spi- alpine ecosystem of the Maluti-Drakensberg Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Near Nedbank. Maseru is reasonably safe, but walking
ral aloe, is a strange plant unique to Lesotho. Mountains, the multimillion-dollar Maluti- around at night, especially off the main
Its leaves form rows of striking, spiral patterns Drakensberg Transfrontier Conservation and Emergency street, is definitely not recommended. Bag-
and you’ll see it in left- and right-handed vari- Development Project between South Africa Ambulance (%2231 2501) snatching and pickpocketing are the main
eties on the slopes of the Maluti Mountains. and Lesotho was established in 2001. Fire Department (%115) risks during the day.
Police (%2231 9900)
National Parks FOOD & DRINK TOURS
Sehlabathebe is Lesotho’s most famous na- You won’t be writing home about the food in Internet Access The tourist information office (%2231 2427; Kingsway)
tional park. Its high-altitude grasslands, lakes, Lesotho. It’s not notably bad, but it’s nothing Data Kare (LNDC Centre, Kingsway; per hr US$1.50; keeps an updated list of tour operators, and
bogs and otherworldly rock formations offer a special either. The staples here are much the h8am-9pm) The best and cheapest place for internet many of the main lodges listed in this chapter
wonderful wilderness experience and are ideal same as in South Africa. Maseru now boasts access. arrange tours and activities in Lesotho.
for hiking. Sehlabathebe is under the jurisdic- a decent selection of restaurants serving a Leo (Orpen Rd; per min US$0.10; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) A few South African operators run tours up
tion of the National Environment Secretariat (Map range of local and foreign foods, but outside Behind the Basotho Hat building. Sani Pass and over the border into Lesotho;
p142; %2231 1767; Raboshabane Rd, Maseru). the capital, you’ll usually have to take what see p522.
The country’s other main conservation you’re given. Medical Services
areas – Ts’ehlanyane National Park, Bokong, For anything serious, you’ll need to go to SLEEPING
Nature Reserve and the Liphofung Cave Cul-
tural Historical Site (see p146) – are all under
the jurisdiction of the Lesotho Highlands Develop-
MASERU South Africa. In an emergency, also try con-
tacting your embassy (p153), as most keep
lists of recommended practitioners.
Budget
Anglican Centre (%2232 2046; dm/tw with shared bath-
room US$7/14) Austere with clean rooms, and
ment Authority Nature Reserves (LHDA; %2246 0723, pop 175,000 / elevation 1600m Maseru Private Hospital (%2231 3260) In Ha meals available with advance notice. It’s next
2291 3206; www.lesothoparks.com), which handles all Maseru is the kind of place that grows on Thetsane, about 7km south of Maseru. door to St James Church, about 500m north
accommodation bookings. All have simple ac- you. It sprawls across Lesotho’s lower-lying Queen Elizabeth II Hospital (%2231 2501; Kings- of Kingsway on the bend where Assisi Rd
commodation (with the exception of Bokong western edge, rimmed by the Berea and Qeme way) Opposite Husters Pharmacy. becomes Lancer’s Rd.
which has camping only), established trails Plateaus. The city has been a quiet backwater
and helpful staff, are relatively easy to access for much of its history. However, it has rapidly Money Midrange & Top End
and are well worth visiting. expanded over the past few decades, and boasts The top-end hotels will do forex transactions Foothills Guesthouse (%5870 6566; melvin@xsinet
a modest array of modern amenities. A major (at poor rates). Otherwise try the following. .co.za; 121 Maluti Rd; s/d with breakfast US$41/62) This
Environmental Issues city rebuilding programme has hidden many International Business Centre (ground fl, Lesotho converted sandstone house has large and airy
This high, corrugated and often freezing of the once-visible scars of the 1998 political Bank Tower, Kingsway; h8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, rooms with décor c 1960s, and a pleasant
kingdom is a tough environment at the best unrest (see p138). 8.30am-noon Sat) enclosed veranda for breakfasts.
 142 MA S E R U lonelyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com MA S E R U • • E a t i n g 143

Lancer’s Inn (%2231 2114; lancers-inn@ilesotho.com; tries, try Maseru Tapestries & Mats (%2231 1773;

Bakery......................................(see 18)

Rendezvous.............................(see 18)

Budget.....................................(see 20)
Sunset....................................... 23 D3
Good Times Cafe.......................(see 7)

Craft Vendors..........................(see 14)

Avis.........................................(see 19)
Basotho Hat...............................24 C3

Maseru Tapestries & Mats..........25 B1

Shoprite/Sefika Mall...................21 E3
Street Stalls.................................22 E3

Buses to Mokhotlong..................26 E3
Buses to Qacha's Nek.................27 E4
Minibus Taxis to Points North.....28 E3

Points South...........................29 E3
0.3 miles

Minibus Taxis to Roma, Motsekuoa &

cnr Kingsway & Pioneer Rd; s/d/tr with breakfast US$66/79/96; Raboshabane Rd), and Seithati Weavers (%2231
500 m

a) Business travellers flock to this central 3975), about 7km from town along the airport
option for its pleasant colonial-era ambience road.
and excellent restaurant. A bit overinflated
F

for what you get. GETTING THERE & AWAY

Maseru Sun (%2231 2434; maseru@sunint.co.za; 12 Bus & Minibus Taxi

Old Airport

TRANSPORT
SHOPPING
Orpen Rd; r US$130; as) These comfortable,

National
Stadium
The hectic bus and minibus taxi departure

EATING
modern rooms with a grassy outlook are a points are in or around the Pitso Ground (and
0
0

safe bet, although the slot machines might nearby streets) to the northeast of the circle.
To Seithati Weavers (5km)

t R
d
eat your extra pennies. Maseru Sun is just To avoid feeling overwhelmed by the throngs

To Teyateyaneng
(42km)
por

Rd
Air
southwest of the junction of Kingsway and of people and buses, check first with the tour-

28
Rd

t Rd

Seithati Weavers (7km); Thaba-Bosiu

la
tsa

(16km); Moshoeshoe International

Ran

rt
Marke
Rd
Pioneer Rd, and is signposted. ist office for specific departure points.

Maseru Private Hospital (7km);

Reservoir

Airport (21km); Roma (35km)

Ground

No
Sta Pitso
LESOTHO

LESOTHO
m
Rd
Lesotho Sun (%2231 3111; lesoresv@sunint.co.za; Shoprite’s ‘Money Market’ kiosk in the

ὈὈ d

diu

Main

Cathedral
uth

t R
E

To Ha Thetsane &
Rd So

26
Pitso
r US$134; ais) A predictable gamble
por
ain LNDC Centre sells Greyhound and Intercape

Primary School
Market
M

27
Rd

Air

St James
Se
llo (ask about specials) is Lesotho’s other Sun. bus tickets.

21
Rd
Piet m ola Perched on a quiet hillside with a great set- From Maseru buses depart to many des-
Rd Pha
ama

22
Matl ting overlooking town, it boasts a casino and tinations. Sample fares include Mafeteng
Sea Point

29
two restaurants. (US$2), Roma (US$1.10) and Mohale’s Hoek

23
The Circle

Europa 1
(US$2).
Gardens
Air Central
Sep
ut ana River Rd EATING
AFRICA)
(SOUTH

rt

Mpilo

19
STATE

Sunset (%6276 0030; Kingsway; mains US$2-4; hlunch Car

po
FREE

& dinner) This pleasant, corporate-looking place For car-rental agencies, Avis (%2232 0087) is
D

Europa 2
Parliament St
12
d
re R
Lina
Rd offers Maseru’s most authentic à la carte din- at Lesotho Sun and the airport, and Budget
3

gale
htin
Nig ing experience. It’s above Fruit & Veg City. (%2231 6344) at Maseru Sun.
Rd Rd
tholi l II Good Times Cafe (%2231 7705; Level 1, LNDC Centre;
1
Assisi Rd
4-Way

Lero au
6 8 10
Stop

nP

Po
p eJ
oh mains US$2.50-7; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) The funky GETTING AROUND
Rd Rd red and blue suede sofas, stylish lights, and To/From the Airport
11

oe
e
esh lac
oh-so-shiny chrome trimmings make this ‘it’ Moshoeshoe International Airport is 21km
16

sho Pa
2
18
13

Mo
Central
Prison

for the local cool crowd. from town, off Main South Rd. Minibus taxis
Caledon Rd Rd
Rendezvous (%2231 2114; Lancer’s Inn, cnr Kingsway (from the transport stand at Shoprite/Sefika
4
17

lo
7

ho
24
Mohlomi Rd

Rd & Pioneer Rd; mains US$5-10; hlunch & dinner) A fave Mall) cost US$0.70. Private taxi companies
na
d

n
Half Moon Rd
Qoqolosing Rd
ene R

Rd
To

utio
Moshoeshoe Rd

Maluti Rd

New Europa
C

14
Lancer's Rd

stit
among the expats and locals who goss in the charge around M7.
5

n
Co
anong

ay
Motso

Rd

sw garden café or have a tipple in the traditional

Rd

ng
er

Ki
M
Rd

e
Bowker

Taxi & Minibus Taxi

on

chandeliered restaurant.
Pi
pen
Rd

On the eastern end of Kingsway towards The standard minibus taxi fare around town
Or
ns
tio

the minibus stations are a number of street is US$0.40. Taxi companies include Moonlite
Rd
Na
d

Rd
ille
te

luti stalls (meals about US$1.50; hlunch) selling grilled (%2231 2605), Planet (%2231 7777) and Luxury
20

ver
ab
ni

Ma
Raboshabane
25

Ri
Rd

snacks and curries. Shoprite is the best option (%2232 6211). These can also be chartered
Golf Course
9
Rd

ebe

n)
Rd

for self-caterers. for long-distance transport elsewhere in the

do

AFRICA)

ss
(SOUTH
STATE
Liou

Math

pa
ale

FREE
y

By
a

Next to Lancer’s Inn is a good bakery country.

sw

(C

ru
ase
ng
B

M
(h7am-8.30pm), with pies, cakes and other
Ki

re
15

ka

AROUND MASERU
Station

delicacies.
Train

ho
Mo

Most towns in Lesotho have risen around

SHOPPING
International Business Centre...(see 6)
Data Kare.................................(see 7)

Dutch Consulate....................(see 18)

National Park)......................(see 9)

Public Phone Shop...................(see 7)

Physical Planning................... 1 D3

Immigration Department........... 3 D2

Lesotho Bank Tower.................. 6 D3

Maseru Book Centre.................. 8 D3

Nedbank.................................. 10 D3

Queen Elizabeth II Hospital...... 12 D3

D4
City Centre Maseru Travel.......(see 8)

German High Commission.......(see 2)

Commission.........................(see 6)
French Consulate.......................2 C3

Irish Consulate...........................4 C3
Leo............................................5 C3

LNDC Centre.............................7 C3

Post Office...............................11 C3

Standard Bank & ATM............. 13 C3

Tourist Information Office....... 14 C3

C2
C2
C3

trading posts or protectorate-era adminis-

National Environment Secretariat..9 B1

US Embassy..............................15 B2

B3
Anglican Centre....................... 16
Foothills Guesthouse................17
Lancer's Inn.............................18
Lesotho Sun............................. 19
Maseru Sun..............................20

Basotho Hat (%2232 2523; Kingsway; h8am-5pm tration centres, but none of these towns ap-
Department of Land, Surveys &

Parks Office (for Sehlabathebe

Mon-Sat) This government-run craft shop is the proach Maseru in size or facilities.
best place to start, although prices are gener-
ally higher than elsewhere in the country. If Thaba-Bosiu
South African High

you plan on walking or pony trekking, the Moshoeshoe the Great’s mountain strong-
INFORMATION
y
MASERU

swa

horsehair fly whisks sold here make good hold, first occupied in July 1824, is about
A

King

SLEEPING
Maseru Bridge

investments. 16km east of Maseru. Thaba-Bosiu (Mountain

(South Africa)
To Ladybrand

The craft vendors in front of the tourist at Night) played a pivotal role in the consoli-
information office have a supply of woven dation of the Basotho nation. The name may
(19km)

3
1

Basotho hats and other souvenirs. For tapes- be a legacy of the site being first occupied
 144 N O R T H E R N L E S OT H O Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N L E S OT H O • • Te y a t e y a n e n g 145

at night, but another legend suggests that and Leribe (US$1, 30 minutes) run through- to the minwane, a 1km slog up the moun-
Thaba-Bosiu, a hill in daylight, grows into a WORTH A VISIT – MOHALE DAM out the day from the Total petrol station in tainside in caves.
mountain at night. The Mohale Dam is worth seeing only if you Maputsoe. About 7km north of Leribe are the Subeng
At the mountain’s base is a visitors informa- haven’t visited Katse Dam or if you’re pass- River dinosaur footprints. At the signpost indi-
tion centre (admission US$0.70; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, ing by. Built across the Senqunyane River, TEYATEYANENG cating the river, walk down about 250m to a
9am-1pm Sat) with maps and an information the impressive 145m-high rock-fill dam was Referred to as ‘TY’, Teyateyaneng (Place of concrete causeway. The worn footprints of at
pamphlet. Arrange for an official guide to completed in 2004 as the second phase of Quick Sands) has been developed as the craft least three species of dinosaur are about 15m
accompany you on the short walk to the top the Lesotho Highlands Water Project. There centre of Lesotho. It has several places worth downstream on the right bank.
of the mountain. are commanding views of the lake and mas- visiting, including Helang Basali Crafts (%2250 Leribe Hotel (%2240 0559; Main St; s/d US$25/39)
Good views from here include those of sive mountains beyond. This is easiest done 0382; h8am-5pm) at St Agnes Mission, 2km be- has an olde-worlde Fawlty Towers–style din-
the Qiloane Hill (inspiration for the Basotho with your own wheels if you’re passing fore TY on the Maseru road; Setsoto Design; ing room (meals from US$3.50), with a pleas-
hat), along with the remains of fortifications, Likalaneng on the way to Roma or Thaba- and Hatooa Mose Mosali. Elelloang Basali ant tea garden.
Moshoeshoe’s grave, and parts of the original Tseka. You can drive as far as the Mohale Weavers is about 4km to the north of TY.
LESOTHO

LESOTHO
settlement. Tunnel through which water can flow 32km The Blue Mountain Inn (%2250 0362; s/d HIGHLANDS WATER PROJECT
to the Katse Dam and vice versa. Alterna- US$32/39) has blue rooms, cottages and a Katse
SLEEPING & EATING tively, the Thaba-Tseka–Maseru bus stops at restaurant. Tiny Katse is the purpose-built former base
Mmelesi Lodge (%5250 0006; s/d US$30/34.50) Offers Likalaneng, from where it’s a short walk to Minibus taxis run between Teyateyaneng for the Lesotho Highlands Water Project and
well-organised flowery rondavels, about 2km the visitors centre (tours available). and Maseru (US$1.70, 45 minutes, 35km). the site of Africa’s highest dam wall (185m).
before the visitors information centre. It also Chartering a taxi from Maseru costs about The green hilly area makes for a relaxing
has a dining room. US$18 one way. pause – even if you don’t give a damn about
per person US$24, s/d with shared bathroom US$21/42; s) engineering feats.
GETTING THERE & AWAY This lovely, relaxing place in a lush garden LERIBE Two kilometres east of the Katse village
Minibuses to Thaba-Bosiu (US$1.10, 30 min- 2km west of Roma off the Maseru road offers Leribe (also known as Hlotse) is a busy re- junction on the main road is the visitors cen-
utes) depart from Maseru at the transport various accommodation options. The trading gional market hub. It served as an administra- tre (admission US$20). There’s a video about and
stand at Shoprite/Sefika Mall. If you’re driv- post has been here since 1903: the Thorn fam- tive centre under the British, as witnessed by a tours of the dam (daily at 9am and 2pm)
ing, take the Mafeteng Rd for about 13km and ily runs the mill and guesthouse. Pre-ordered few old buildings slowly decaying in the leafy and a dam viewpoint. Exposed and windy
turn left at the Roma turn-off; after about 6km breakfasts (US$5) and dinners (US$9) are streets. The main sight is the crumbling Major camping is also on offer here. In the village
take the signposted road left. Thaba-Bosiu is available and there’s a kitchen. Minwane (di- Bell’s Tower near the market, a government itself, Katse Lodge (%2291 0202; dm US$20, s/d with
10km further along. nosaur footprints) are a 20-minute walk away. storehouse (1879). breakfast US$33/59) offers hospital-style rooms,
The same owners run the nearby Trading Post The Leribe Craft Centre (%2240 0323; h8am- but ask about the more appealing and better-
Roma Adventures Guesthouse, which also offers 4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-1pm Sat) sells a range of value ‘dorm’ accommodation with clean twin
Roma, 35km from Maseru, is Lesotho’s centre tours, hiking trails and horse rides. high-quality woollen goods. There is a set rooms and massive shared bathrooms.
of learning, with the country’s only university. of dinosaur footprints a few kilometres south The spectacular road from Leribe to Katse
Several attractive sandstone buildings are dot- GETTING THERE & AWAY of Leribe at Tsikoane village. To get there, passes the lowland village of Pitseng before
ted around the town, and the entry to town by Minibus taxis run throughout the day between head north and take the small dirt road to climbing over the Maluti Mountains. Be care-
the southern gorge is spectacular. Maseru and Roma (US$1.10, 30 minutes). the right at the Tsikoane Primary School, ful in the rain – the roads are slick. A comfort-
Just north of Roma are the Ha Baroana rock towards some rocky outcrops. Follow it up able accommodation option in Pitseng is Aloes
paintings. They are one of Lesotho’s more
publicised rock-art sites (there are many being
discovered and not publicised), and are worth
NORTHERN LESOTHO to the church and ask someone to direct you Guest House (%2700 5626; s/d US$21/25).

a visit if you have extra time, although neglect Northern Lesotho – the area from Maseru LESOTHO’S WHITE GOLD
and vandalism have taken their toll. up to Butha-Buthe and the main gateway to It might not seem like a valuable commodity, but for Lesotho water is a big money spinner. For
To reach the paintings from Roma head the spectacular northeastern highlands – is more than 15 years the US$8-billion Highlands Water Project has created dams and conduits for
back to the Maseru road and turn right in relatively densely populated, and dotted with a the water in Lesotho’s highlands.
the direction of Thaba-Tseka for about 12km series of bustling lowland towns. While there The scheme pipes water to rand-rich but water-poor Johannesburg. The first stages – the
to Nazareth. Just before Nazareth follow the are few formal tourist sights, the region’s local Katse Dam (see above) and Mohale Dam (near Likalaneng; see the boxed text, opposite) and
signposted gravel track to the paintings for 3km flavours – markets, welcoming locals and the associated waterworks – are complete, and by 2020 five dams and more than 200km of piping
to Ha Khotso. Turn right at a football field and unique geographical backdrop – provide a will supply water to South Africa.
continue 2.5km to a hilltop. A footpath zigzags genuine experience. In many ways the project has been a positive for the country – new roads and many jobs
down the hillside to the rock shelter with the Regular minibus taxis run between Maseru have been created – but it has not been without controversy.
paintings. Minibus taxis go as far as Nazareth. and the towns. Maputsoe is a major transport Bribery scandals overshadowed the 1999 inauguration and hundreds of people who moved
junction, and for northbound transport from from their homes to make way for the project never received their promised compensation.
SLEEPING & EATING Maseru, you’ll usually need to change vehicles Environmental concerns over the loss of habitat and fears that the dam will silt up over the long
Trading Post Guest House (%2234 0202/67; www.trad there. Minibus taxis to Maseru (US$2.50, one term have also been raised.
ingpost.co.za; camping per person US$7, dm US$11, rondavels hour), Butha-Buthe (US$1.80, 45 minutes)
 146 E A S T E R N L E S OT H O • • T h a b a -Ts e k a lonelyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com E A S T E R N L E S OT H O • • M o k h o t l o n g 147

There are minibus taxis from Leribe to (Beware the treacherous hairpin bends in lished in 1980 as a centre for the mountain Sehlabathebe National Park and KwaZulu-
Katse (US$5, three to five hours) and plenty winter.) Skiing is available through Afri-Ski district. Natal.
of traffic if you want to hitch. (www.afriski.co.za), 11km past Oxbow. You can bunk down at the Farmer Training There is a rugged three-day hike from Sani
New Oxbow Lodge (%in South Africa 051-933 2247; Centre (%2290 0294; r/dm US$14/7), on the street Top Chalet south along the remote escarp-
BUTHA-BUTHE www.oxbow.co.za; s/d with breakfast M310/545) is an in- behind the tower, or at Mountain Star Hotel ment edge to Sehlabathebe National Park. The
Moshoeshoe the Great named this frontier congruous Austrian-style chalet on the banks (%2290 0415; s/d US$20/23.50), where the most altitude of much of this remote area is more
town Butha-Buthe (Place of Lying Down); it of the Malibamat’so River, with accommoda- creative aspects are the ‘Adam’ and ‘Eve’ toilet than 3000m; try this only if you’re well pre-
was here that his people first retreated during tion, cosy bar, restaurant and ski-hire. signs. The Lilala Butchery & General Cafe pared, experienced and in a group of at least
the difaqane. The Maluti Mountains form a A bus between Maseru and Mokhotlong serves sandwiches and drinks. three people with a guide.
beautiful backdrop. goes via Oxbow (US$7, 4½ hours), and there Three buses run daily between Maseru Other hikes in this area are outlined in the
Ask for directions to Ha Thabo Ramakatane are daily minibus taxis between Butha-Buthe and Thaba-Tseka (US$5, seven hours). Mini- excellent booklet A Backpacker’s Guide to
Youth Hostel (dm US$4.50). It’s about 4km from and Oxbow (US$3.50, 1½ hours). buses also go as far as Sehonghong (US$3, Lesotho by Russell Suchet (US$6.50), avail-
the village and accessible only via 4WD or two hours); from here to Qacha’s Nek you’d able through most lodges, Morija Museum &
LESOTHO

LESOTHO
walking. We’re talking basic – part of the
house has no electricity, there’s gas cooking,
and water comes from the well – but it’s as
EASTERN LESOTHO need to try your luck for a lift – roads are
poor. For Mokhotlong, change at Likalaneng
(US$3, two hours).
Archives (%2236 0308; www.morijafest.com) and Sani
Lodge (%in South Africa 033-702 0330; www.sanilodge
.co.za) at Sani Pass.
authentic as it comes. The awesome eastern highlands area is defined
Crocodile Inn (%2246 0223; Reserve Rd; s/d/tr from by the rugged escarpment of the Drakensberg. MOKHOTLONG Sleeping & Eating
US$28/32/46) is definitely a bit of a croc – it looks It’s probably best known for the Sani Pass, but Mokhotlong (Place of the Bald Ibis) is 270km Sani Top Chalet (%in South Africa 033-702 1158; www
nice enough, although water is infrequent and it also boasts the highest mountain in Southern from Maseru and the first major town north of .sanitopchalet.co.za; camping per person US$7, dm US$12,
‘day rests’ are advertised. The restaurant here Africa, the 3482m Thabana-Ntlenyana. This Sani Pass. It has an appealing Wild West feel r with shared bathroom US$42) On the edge of the
is Butha-Buthe’s main dining establishment. stunning mountain region features highland to it, with locals – sporting Basotho blankets – escarpment at a lofty 2874m, this popular
A minibus taxi from Maputsoe to Butha- villages, rondavels, shepherds and sandstone on their horses, and basic shops. but monopolistic ski chalet boasts the highest
Buthe costs M13 (20 minutes). rock shelters. It’s the place for serious hikers. A worthwhile effort is Molumong Guest- pub in Africa, plus simple, cosy rooms and
house & Backpackers (%in South Africa 033-394 3072; excellent meals. Less lofty praise applies to
OXBOW THABA-TSEKA molumong@worldonline.co.za; camping per person M45, the backpackers’ dorm – its now-draughty,
Oxbow, over the dramatic 2820m Moteng This remote scrappy town is on the eastern dm/d US$10/25), a rustic lodge and former co- stained room detracts from an otherwise high.
Pass, consists of several lodges and huts nes- edge of the Central Range, over the some- lonial trading post, about 15km southwest (Fingers crossed for the new rondavels under
tled amid some wonderful mountain scenery. times-tricky Mokhoabong Pass. It was estab- of Mokhotlong. It’s a basic (electricity-free) construction.) Pony trekking and sometimes
self-catering stay so bring your own food. skiing are on offer.
Pony trekking is available. On the KwaZulu-Natal side of the pass,
HIGHLAND PARKS & RESERVES The Senqu Hotel (%2292 0330; s/d with shared bath- Sani Lodge is a convenient and pleasant sleep-
While the building of a series of dams on the Senqu (Orange) River has created controversy, room US$25/33, s/d US$28/39) is at the western end of ing option; see p522.
not least over environmental concerns, it has also led to the creation of the following nature town along the main road. Nearby Grow (%2292
reserves. For bookings and inquiries contact LHDA Nature Reserves (%2246 0723; fax 2246 1226; 0205; dm US$7), a Lesotho-registered development Getting There & Away
nature@lhda.org.ls; PO Box 333, Butha-Buthe 400, Lesotho). The website www.lesothoparks.com has greater office, has basic dorms and a simple kitchen. A minibus taxi runs daily from Mokhotlong
(although outdated) detail. Regular public transport runs to/from via Sani Top down to Underberg (South Af-
Butha-Buthe (US$7.60, six hours), Maseru rica) and back (US$9 one way, five hours).
Bokong Nature Reserve (US$10, eight hours), Linakaneng (ask for If you’re driving up the pass from Kwa-
The bearded vulture, the ice rat and the Vaal rhebok are just some of the denizens of this reserve Molumong Lodge) and Sani Top. Zulu Natal, a 4WD is obligatory; 2WD with
(adult/child US$0.80/0.50; camping US$3, basic huts US$5.50), at the top of the 3090m Mafika-Lisiu Pass, clearance can make it down, though with dif-
near the Bokong River. The park is also home to Afro-alpine wetland sponges. There are a number SANI TOP ficulty. The South African border crossing is
of day walks, a visitors centre and an overnight camping ground. Guides (per person M20) and Sani Top sits atop the steep Sani Pass, the only open 8am to 4pm daily; the Lesotho side stays
pony trekking (from M50) can be arranged. dependable (albeit winding!) road into Le- open until 5pm to let the last vehicles through.
sotho through the uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Hitching is best at weekends.
Ts’ehlanyane National Park mountain range in KwaZulu-Natal. It offers Hostels on the KwaZulu-Natal side arrange
Deep in the rugged Maluti Mountains this 5600-hectare national park (admission US$1.50; camping stupendous views on clear days and unlimited transport up the pass, and various agencies in
from US$3, 6-person guesthouse US$48) has some interesting fauna – woodland and berg bamboo – but hiking possibilities. Himeville and Underberg (the nearest South
little in the way of big flora. There are walks, horse trails, a guesthouse and camp sites. From the Sani Top Chalet at the top of the African towns) arrange tours – see p522.
pass there are several day walks, including a
Liphofung Cave Cultural Historical Site long and strenuous trek to Thabana-Ntlenyana SEHLABATHEBE NATIONAL PARK
San rock art and historical links that go back as far as the Stone Age are the attractions of this (3482m), the highest peak in Southern Africa. Lesotho’s first national park, proclaimed in
small 4-hectare reserve (adult/child US$2/0.70; camping US$3, rondavels per person US$7), just off the main A guide is a good idea. 1970, is remote, rugged and beautiful. Getting
Butha-Buthe–Oxbow road. There are also horse trails and a small craft centre. Hodgson’s Peaks (3257m) is a much easier there is a worthwhile adventure, especially for
hike 6km south, from where you can see into wilderness, seclusion and fishing. The rolling
 148 S O U T H E R N L E S OT H O • • S e m o n k o n g Book accommodation online
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lyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N L E S OT H O • • M o r i j a 149

grasslands, wildflowers and silence provide a year in a 2WD. You can arrange to leave your near the Maletsunyane River, is one of the contact the manager through the details listed
sense of isolation, which is indeed the case, vehicle at the police station in Paolosi village places to stay, with camping and rondavels here.
apart from the prolific bird life (including while you’re in the park. up for grabs. Hikes and pony treks are on Minibus taxis run throughout the day
the bearded vulture) and the odd rhebok. Keen walkers can hike the 10km up the offer, as is the well-promoted world’s long- between Maseru and Morija (US$1.50, 45
Hiking (and horse riding from Sani Top or escarpment from Bushman’s Nek in Kwa- est commercially operated single-drop abseil minutes, 40km).
the Drakensberg) is the main way to explore Zulu-Natal. From Bushman’s Nek to the (204m) down the Maletsunyane Falls (US$63
the waterfalls and surrounds. Nkonkoana Gate border crossing takes per person; less if more people). The lodge is MALEALEA
You’ll need to bring all your food, and be about six hours. Horses can also be arranged signposted from the town centre. Shortly before reaching Malealea is the Gates
well prepared for the elements. This sum- through Khotso Trails (%in South Africa 033-701 1502; Buses between Maseru and Semonkong of Paradise Pass. A plaque announces ‘Way-
mer rainfall area has frequent thick mists, www.khotsotrails.co.za) in Underberg. (US$3.50) leave from either town in the farer – pause and look upon a Gateway of
potentially hazardous to hikers. Winters are morning, arriving in late afternoon. Paradise’. This says it all – about the region,
clear but cold at night, with occasional light QACHA’S NEK village and the lodge. The breathtaking moun-
snowfalls. This pleasant town was founded in 1888 near MORIJA tains feature caves with San paintings, and you
LESOTHO

LESOTHO
the pass (1980m) of the same name. It has an Morija is a tiny town with a big history, and can enjoy a well-organised pony trek from
Sleeping & Eating attractive church, several colonial-era sand- the site of the first European mission in Le- here or wander on foot through the region.
If you’re travelling by public transport, the stone buildings and California redwood trees, sotho. It’s a must for anyone interested in Today, the heart of the village is Malealea
buses reach Sehlabathebe in the evening, some over 25m high. Lesotho’s history and culture. Morija Museum Lodge, which offers a smorgasbord of cultural
which means you’ll need to overnight in Ma- Letloepe Lodge (%2295 0383; www.letloepelodge & Archives (%2236 0308; www.morijafest.com; admission and outdoor activities.
vuka village near the park gate. .co.ls; dm/s/d with breakfast US$10/39/55) is the frilliest US$0.80; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun), the best
Camping is permitted throughout the park, of accommodation choices. This ‘palace just museum in Lesotho, holds well-presented Activities
though there are no facilities besides plenty below the clouds’ has a serene outlook. Basotho ethnographical exhibits, archives PONY TREKKING
of water. The more modest Anna’s B&B (%2295 0374; and artefacts. Malealea Lodge (p150) is one of the best places
Sehlabathebe Park Lodge (%bookings 2232 3600; annasb&b@leo.col.ls; s US$14-42, d US$25-39) offers a The annual Morija Arts & Cultural Festival (www in Lesotho to arrange pony trekking, which
camping per person US$4.50, r per person US$11) Built in variety of rooms. .morijafest.com) is organised by the museum. This offers a good chance to meet Basotho villag-
the 1970s for the prime minister of the time, Minibus taxis go from Qacha’s Nek and popular, annual event is held in early October ers and experience the awesome scenery of
and the park’s only option with facilities, this Maseru via Quthing (US$13, six hours). An and showcases the diversity of Sotho culture the mountains, valleys and waterfalls. The
time-warped lodge makes for a groovy stay. early morning bus runs between Maseru and through dance, music and theatre, and in- villagers provide the ponies and guide; this
It’s set on a remote flat grassland, and looks Qacha’s Nek (US$9, nine hours), and the cludes horse racing and moraba-raba (similar provides a significant contribution to the local
onto hills and ponds. Bring all your own food, bus from Qacha’s Nek to Sehlabathebe Na- to chess) competitions. The festival began in village economy.
plus extra petrol or diesel – there’s none avail- tional Park departs around noon (US$4.50, 1999 as a means of reuniting the people of The pony treks are priced on a per-day
able at the park. Coal is available for purchase five hours). Lesotho after the turmoil created by the 1998 basis (around US$22). Overnight rides start
from the caretaker. The lodge takes up to 12 political upheaval, and to revive aspects of at US$36 to US$46 per person, plus US$7
people, and has bedding and a fully equipped
kitchen. Due to its isolation, it’s not recom-
mended for lone travellers. Bookings are made
SOUTHERN LESOTHO culture and boost tourism.
Mophato Oa Morija (%2236 0219; mophatooamo@leo
.co.ls; dm US$8.50) is an ecumenical conference
for each night spent in one of the Basotho
village huts.

through the National Environment Secretariat Southern Lesotho – from Semonkong to centre that is sometimes willing to accom- WALKING
(%2231 1767, 2232 6075; Raboshabane Rd, Maseru). Morija and southeast to Quthing – is less de- modate travellers. Malealea Lodge has route maps for over-
Range Management Education Centre (dm US$5) veloped than the northwest between Maseru Morija Guest Houses (%6306 5093; mgh@leo.co.ls; night and longer jaunts and can arrange
This clean and modern centre, 2km down and Butha-Buthe, with massive mountain r per person US$25) is a selection of several com- pack ponies for your gear. Stunning destina-
the road to the left after the Mavuka Primary ranges, awesome valleys, and villages that have fortable guesthouses, some with stunning tions include Botso’ela Waterfall (two hours
School, has dorm beds, but at the time of an enticing off-the-beaten-track feel. outlooks, around Morija. For reservations, return); Pitseng Gorge (six hours return, bring
research had no water or gas.
SEMONKONG
Getting There & Away Semonkong (Place of Smoke) is a one-horse MOVERS & SHAKERS: FANUEL MUSI
A daily bus connects Qacha’s Nek and Seh- town in the serene and lofty Thaba Putsoa Throughout Lesotho you may spot massive gullies or ravines stemming from the tops of hills and
labathebe, departing from Qacha’s Nek at range. Maletsunyane Falls (Lebahane Falls; snaking all the way to the bottom of a valley. Known as dongas, these eroded areas developed
around noon and Sehlabathebe at 5.30am 204m) are a 1½-hour walk away and are at primarily from the use of steel ploughs and an increase in arable farming during the latter part
(US$4.50, five hours). The bus terminates their most awesome in summer – especially of the 19th century. The unstable duplex soils were quickly disturbed by the heavy summer
in Mavuka village, near the park gate. From from the bottom of the gorge, where there are storms. In 1986 Mr Fanuel Musi of Malealea was one of the first Basothos to reclaim a donga.
here, it’s 12km further on foot to Sehlabathebe camp sites (per person US$3). Ketane Falls (122m) Over 11 years he painstakingly built rock dams (or terraces) to capture silt and detritus. As the
Park Lodge. If you’re driving, the main route are an exciting day’s ride (30km) from area above the dam wall or terrace filled, he built another dam lower down, until the gully was
into the park is via Quthing and Qacha’s Nek Semonkong. refilled with fertile soils, grasses or stabilising tree species. Many external aid organisations come
but a 4WD is recommended. The road from The highly recommended Semonkong Lodge to view the project. Mr Musi died in 1997 at the age of 74, but you can visit his family at their
Qacha’s Nek is unpaved but in reasonable (%/fax in South Africa 051-933 3106; www.placeofsmoke working farm at Malealea to see his stunning green legacy (see p150).
condition, and negotiable at most times of the .co.ls; camping per person US$5.50, dm/s/d US$11/32/59),
 150 S O U T H E R N L E S OT H O • • M a fe t e n g Book accommodation online
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lyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com L E S OT H O D I R E C T O R Y • • A c c o m m o d a t i o n 151

swimwear); Pitseng Plateau (one hour return);

and along the Makhaleng River. The walks
include visits to surrounding villages and
You can also approach Malealea from the
south, via Mpharane and Masemouse, but
the road is rough and most drivers travel via
next to the small church. Accommodation is
also available on a B&B basis or in the rusti-
cally unrenovated rondavels. There are San
LESOTHO DIRECTORY
San art sites. Motsekuoa. paintings nearby. ACCOMMODATION
Quthing’s other claim to fame is a prolif- Maseru has a reasonable range of hotel ac-
OTHER ACTIVITIES MAFETENG eration of dinosaur footprints. The most easily commodation. Most towns have small hotels
Village visits provide a stimulating insight into Mafeteng (Place of Lefeta’s People) is named accessible are just off the main road to Mt that have survived from protectorate days,
the local people and their customs. You can after an early magistrate Emile Rolland, who Moorosi; watch for the small, pink building although many are run-down bars and liquor
visit the tiny museum, housed in a traditional was known to the local Basotho as Lefeta (One to your left. These footprints are believed to stores that also provide accommodation. New
Basotho hut, a sangoma (witchdoctor; only who Passes By). Little has changed; you’d do be 180 million years old. lodges and B&Bs have sprung up over recent
for the genuinely interested) and a reclaimed best to move on. That said, the town is an Between Quthing and Masitise, and visible years.
donga (see the boxed text, p149). There are important transport interchange, a border from the main road, is Villa Maria Mission, with a Camping is most viable away from popu-
some good, scenic drives suitable for both junction (it’s 22km to Wepener in Free State) striking, twin-spired sandstone church. lation centres. Always ask permission of the
LESOTHO

LESOTHO
2WD and 4WD vehicles (see www.malealea and a possible stocking-up point. At Qomoqomong, 10km from Quthing, local landowners and chief, and expect to pay
.co.ls/scenic_drives.html). Straight out of the ’60s TV sitcom Lost in there’s a collection of San paintings; ask at the a small fee. Camping is also possible in high-
Space, polygon-shaped Mafeteng Hotel (%2270 General Dealers store about a guide for the land parks.
Sleeping 0236; r US$28-35) is a blast from the past. To bring 20-minute walk to the paintings. For a small fee, you can sometimes score a
oMalealea Lodge (%in South Africa 051-436 you back to earth, there’s a garden, restaurant The road from Quthing to Qacha’s Nek, bed at the missions or Agricultural Training
6766, 082-552 4215; www.malealea.com; camping per per- and disco. along the winding Senqu (Orange) River Centres; the latter are at Thaba-Tseka and
son M50, backpacker huts with shared bathroom per person Frequent minibus taxis connect Mafeteng Gorge and through some striking canyon Qacha’s Nek.
US$11, r per person US$14-28) The hub of local life, with Maseru (US$2, 1½ hours) and Mohale’s scenery, is one of Lesotho’s most stunning Prices for accommodation in this chapter
award-winning Malealea Lodge – a former Hoek (US$1.50, 30 minutes). For Quthing, drives. If you’re equipped, the whole area is are: budget US$40 and below, midrange US$40
trading post established by Mervyn Smith change at Mohale’s Hoek. ideal for hiking. to US$100, top end US$100 and above.
(1905) – provides an extraordinary entrée En route is the village of Mt Moorosi, named
into the ‘Kingdom in the Sky’. The extremely MOHALE’S HOEK after a Basotho chieftain who in 1879 stuck ACTIVITIES
friendly Jones family works closely with com- More agreeable than Mafeteng, this comfort- it out for eight months against the British Abseiling
munity – its foundation (from tourist revenue able town is 125km from Maseru. The younger on his fortified mountain until he was killed; Hit the heights at Semonkong Lodge for the
and donations) supports projects in the area. brother of Moshoeshoe the Great, Mohale, the pretty Mphaki village, a possible base for longest commercially operated single-drop
Almost every night the local choir performs gave this land to the British for administrative hiking; and Christ the King Mission, with wide abseil (204m) down the Maletsunyane Falls
at the lodge. purposes in 1884. views over the Senqu River valley. From the (see p148).
Hungry hikers love the bar, hearty meals Mohale’s Hoek has Monateng Lodge (%2278 mission, it’s a good two- to three-day hike
(breakfast/lunch/dinner US$5.5/7/10) and 5337; s/d US$24/28), but it seriously lacks some- north to Semonkong (p148). Bird-Watching
self-catering facilities. A village shop stocks thing – security and the ‘it’ factor. Much better About 280 species of bird have been re-
basic goods. Bookings must be made through is the quality Hotel Mount Maluti (%2278 5224; Sleeping & Eating corded in Lesotho – a surprising number
South Africa. September to November are the www.hotelmountmaluti.co.za; s/d with breakfast US$36/52). Fuleng Guest House (% 2275 0260; r per person for a landlocked country. The mountainous
busy months. There’s a large garden and a restaurant. from US$11) Perched in Upper Quthing, this terrain provides habitats for many species
is the place for excellent-value rooms and of raptor (birds of prey). You might see the
Getting There & Away QUTHING rondavels with a view, plus a friendly local Cape vulture or the rare bearded vulture or
Two Sprinter minibus taxis depart Maseru at Quthing, the southernmost major town in experience. lammergeyer.
around 11.30am and 4.30pm and Malealea Lesotho, is also known as Moyeni (Place of the Moorosi Chalets (%in South Africa 051-436 6766,
at 6am and 2pm (US$5.50, 2½ hours, 83km). Wind). It was established in 1877, abandoned 082-552 4215; www.malealea.co.ls; chalets per person
Otherwise, catch a minibus taxi from near during the Gun War of 1880 and then rebuilt US$11-42) The chalets are part of a community PRACTICALITIES
Maseru’s Shoprite/Sefika Mall to the junc- at the present site. programme and are secondary to amazing
Several newspapers such as Southern
tion town of Motsekuoa (US$2, two hours); The town comprises Lower Quthing and activities on offer – from village stays to fish- Star are available in Maseru and other
there are frequent connections to Malealea Upper Quthing, the former colonial admin- ing, best organised in advance. The chalets towns. Day-old South African news-
(US$1.50, 30 minutes). istrative centre, with good facilities and even are 6km from Mt Moorosi village; take the papers are also available in Maseru.
If you’re driving, head south from Ma- better views overlooking the dramatic Senqu turn-off to Ha Moqalo 2km out of the village

Thanks to a transmitter, you can pick up
seru on Main South Rd for 52km to Mot- (Orange) River Gorge. There are minibus taxis in the direction of Qacha’s Nek. the BBC’s World Service on short wave,
sekuoa. Look for the Malealea Lodge sign between Lower and Upper Quthing. medium wave (1197kHz) and FM.
and the proliferation of minibus taxis. Turn About 1.5km off the highway, 5km west of Getting There & Away
left (east) onto a tarmac road. Ten kilometres Quthing, is the intriguing Masitise Cave House Minibus taxis run daily between Quthing and
Lesotho‘s electricity is generated at
further on take the right fork and continue Museum (%5879 4167; admission free, donation appreci- Maseru (US$7, 3½ hours) and Qacha’s Nek 220V. Appliances have three round
another 15km. At the signposted turn-off to ated), now a museum, built into a San rock (US$7, three hours). The Quthing–Qacha’s prongs as used in South Africa.
Malealea, head 7km along an unsealed road shelter in 1866 by Reverend Ellenberger. Ask Nek road is tarmac the entire way despite
Lesotho uses the metric system.
to the lodge. for the key from the caretaker in the house what many maps indicate.
 152 L E S OT H O D I R E C T O R Y • • B o o k s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com L E S OT H O D I R E C T O R Y • • E m b a s s i e s & C o n s u l a t e s 153

Good bird-watching places include eyries Note that a white flag waving from a vil- Never go out into the mountains, even in Easter Monday March/April
in the Maluti Mountains and near the eastern lage means that joala (sorghum beer) has just summer or for an afternoon, without a sleep- Hero’s Day 4 April
Drakensberg escarpment. been brewed; a yellow flag indicates maize ing bag, tent and sufficient food for a couple Workers’ Day 1 May
beer; red is for fresh meat; and green is for of days in case you get fogged in. Ascension Day May
Fishing vegetables. On the last Friday of the month, many King’s Birthday 17 July
Trout fishing is very popular in Lesotho; the people are paid and some get drunk; things Independence Day 4 October
season runs from September to the end of Pony Trekking can get boisterous. Christmas Day 25 December
May. There is a minimal licence fee, a bag This is an excellent and popular way of see- There’s a slight risk of being robbed in Boxing Day 26 December
limit of 12 fish and a minimum size limit ing the Lesotho highlands, and is offered Lesotho; muggings are common in Maseru.
of 25cm; only rod and line and artificial by Malealea Lodge (p150), Trading Post INTERNET RESOURCES
nonspinning flies may be used. For more Guest House (p144) and Semonkong Lodge EMBASSIES & CONSULATES African Studies – Lesotho Page (www.sas.upenn
information contact the Livestock Division of (p148). Lesotho Embassies & Consulates .edu/African_Studies/Country_Specific/Lesotho.html)
the Ministry of Agriculture (%2232 3986; Private Bag You will usually need to bring food, a sleep- Lesotho has an embassy in South Africa (see Reliable links to a number of other Lesotho websites.
LESOTHO

LESOTHO
A82, Maseru 100). ing bag, rainwear, sunscreen, warm clothing, p584). Elsewhere in the world, countries with Kingdom in the Sky (www.seelesotho.com) An
The closest fishing area to Maseru is the a torch (flashlight) and water purification a Lesotho embassy include the following. excellent resource with all kinds of tourist information for
Makhalaneng River (a two-hour drive from tablets. Belgium (%02-705 3976; Blvd General Wahis 45, 1030 planning a trip to Lesotho.
Maseru). Other places where you can cast Brussels) Lesotho Government (www.lesotho.gov.ls) Useful
a line include Malibamat’so near Butha- BOOKS Germany (%30 257 5720; Dessaur Strasse 28/29, 10963 although sometimes outdated information.
Buthe, 2km below Oxbow Lodge; in the De A Backpacker’s Guide to Lesotho by Russell Berlin)
Beers’ Dam, Khubelu and Mokhotlong Riv- Suchet features walks around Lesotho and Italy (%06-854 2419; les.rome@flashnet.it; Via Serchio LANGUAGE
ers near Mokhotlong; the Tsoelikana River, is a must for hikers. Poignant personal ac- 8, 00198 Rome) The official languages are South Sotho and
Park Ponds and Leqooa River near Qacha’s counts by Basotho include Singing Away the UK (%020-7235 5686; 7 Chesham Pl, Belgravia, London English. For some useful words and phrases
Nek; Thaba-Tseka main dam and Katse and Hunger by Mpho Matsepo Nthunya et al, and SW1 8HN) in South Sotho, see p780.
Mohale Dams. Shepherd Boy of the Maloti by Thabo Makoa. USA (%202-797 5533/4; 2511 Massachusetts Ave NW,
Indigenous fish include barbel in lowland For history, read A Short History of Lesotho Washington DC 20008) MAPS
rivers, yellowfish in the mountains and the by Stephen Gill. The Department of Land, Surveys & Physical Plan-
Maloti minnow in the upper Tsoelikana. Embassies & Consulates in Lesotho ning (Map p142; % 2232 2376; Lerotholi Rd, Maseru;
BUSINESS HOURS A number of countries have representation h9am-3pm Mon-Fri) sells a good 1:50,000 map
Hiking Most businesses are open from 8am to 5pm in Maseru. of Maseru (US$7), a 1:250,000 map of Lesotho
Lesotho offers great remote-area trekking in a weekdays (8.30am to 1pm Wednesdays) and China (%2231 6521; http://ls.china-embassy.org/eng; (US$7), plus 1:50,000 hiking maps cover-
landscape reminiscent of the Tibetan plateau. 8am to 1pm Saturdays. The civil service works United Nations Rd, Maseru) ing the country (US$5). Look for the brown
The eastern highlands and the Drakensberg between 8am and 4.30pm weekdays with a France (Map p142; %2232 5722; alliancefrancaise@ile building marked ‘LSPP’. Maseru’s tourist
crown attract serious hikers, with the walk break for lunch from 12.45pm to 2pm. sotho.com; Alliance Française Bldg, cnr Kingsway & Pioneer information office also sells a Lesotho map
between Qacha’s Nek and Butha-Buthe of- Rd, Maseru) (US$0.80).
fering the best challenge. CUSTOMS Germany (Map p142; %2233 2292; c/o Alliance
As well as the appropriate hiking gear, you Customs regulations are broadly the same as Française Bldg, cnr Kingsway & Pioneer Rd, Maseru) MONEY
will need a compass and the relevant 1:50,000 those for South Africa (see p583). Visitors Ireland (Map p142; %2231 4068; Tonakholo Rd, The unit of currency is the loti (plural maloti;
or 1:250,000 maps from the Department of Land, from the South African customs union – Bot- Maseru) M), which is divided into 100 liesente. The
Surveys & Physical Planning (Map p142; %2232 2376; swana, Swaziland and South Africa – cannot Netherlands (Map p142; %2231 2114; Lancers Inn, loti is fixed at a value equal to the South Afri-
Lerotholi Rd, Maseru; h9am-3pm Mon-Fri). bring in alcohol. Kingsway, Maseru) can rand, and rands are accepted everywhere
Be prepared – walking can be dangerous – South Africa (Map p142; %2231 5758; 10th fl, Lesotho (however, maloti are not accepted outside
zero temperatures (even in summer), thun- DANGERS & ANNOYANCES Bank Tower, Kingsway, Maseru) Lesotho).
derstorms and thick fog are common. In You may receive unmenacing requests for USA (Map p142; %2231 2666; http://maseru.usembas
summer many of the rivers flood, and fords money, especially if hiking somewhere with- sy.gov; 254 Kingsway, Maseru; h9am-noon & 2-4pm ATMs & Cash
can become dangerous: route changes might out a guide. In the highlands, you’ll receive Mon & Wed) If changing foreign currency, do it in South
be necessary. By the end of the dry season incessant requests for ‘sweets! sweets!’ from Africa before you come – rates are better.
clean water can be scarce. school children and herd boys. Tourists FESTIVALS & EVENTS There are a few ATMs in Maseru, but not all
Bring all your own supplies, especially spe- throwing out sweets has become an increas- Morija Arts & Cultural Festival (www.morijafest.com) is take international cards.
cialist hiking supplies. ing problem in encouraging begging. Children held in Morija in early October (see p149). The only banks where you can reliably
Hikers should respect the mounds of stones throwing stones at cars is on the increase, change foreign currency, including travellers
(cairns) marking graves. However, a cairn mainly in the highlands. HOLIDAYS cheques, are in Maseru (see p141).
near a path, especially between two hills, can Several lives (mainly herd boys) are lost Lesotho’s public holidays:
be added to by passing travellers; ensure your each year from lightning strikes. Keep off high New Year’s Day 1 January Credit Cards
good luck by spitting on a stone and throwing ground during electrical storms and avoid Moshoeshoe Day 11 March Most hotels, restaurants and travel agencies
it onto the pile. camping in the open. Good Friday March/April will accept credit cards. As a last resort, you
 154 T R A N S P O R T I N L E S OT H O • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T R A N S P O R T I N L E S OT H O • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d 155

can change money for low rates at larger

hotels. TRANSPORT IN direction between Bloemfontein and Maseru
Bridge (US$5, three hours). For Big Sky, buy
in stages is only slightly more expensive than
buying a direct ticket.

Tipping
Wages are low in Lesotho. In rural parts of
LESOTHO tickets at the Big Sky booths at Bloemfontein’s
Central Park, or on the bus at Maseru Bridge.
There are express services from Bloemfontein
Car & Motorcycle
DRIVING LICENCE
Lesotho it’s normal to round up the bill, and GETTING THERE & AWAY (two hours) on Friday and Saturday morn- An international or domestic driving licence
in tourist areas it’s usual to tip around 10%. This section covers travel between Lesotho ing, and from Maseru Bridge on Friday and is necessary.
and its neighbour, South Africa. (For informa- Sunday afternoon. Intercape tickets can be
POST tion on reaching Lesotho from elsewhere on purchased at Maseru’s Shoprite. FUEL & SPARE PARTS
Post offices are open from 8am to 4.30pm the African continent and from other conti- Via minibus taxi, the best connections are Fuel – including unleaded fuel and diesel – is
weekdays and 8am to noon Saturday. nents, see p752.) from Bloemfontein to Botshabelo (Mtabelo; available in the major towns; fill up whenever
US$4.50, one hour), and from there to Maseru possible and carry a jerry can with extra fuel.
TELEPHONE Entering Lesotho (US$2, 1½ hours). Spare parts are extremely limited; carry tools
LESOTHO

LESOTHO
Lesotho’s telephone system works reasonably Most travellers enter Lesotho overland from There are at least three buses weekly be- and spare tyres. Tyre repairers are as common
well, but only where there is access – there’s South Africa, although it’s also possible to fly tween Johannesburg and Maseru (six to seven as mountains in ‘them-thar parts’.
no telephone network in the highlands. The in from Johannesburg. A passport is required hours), as well as daily minibus taxis between
main mobile service is Vodacom Lesotho (www for entering Swaziland. both Johannesburg and Ladybrand (16km HIRE
.vodacom.co.ls) – off the beaten track, signals can be Entry permits are easy to get at any of from the Maseru Bridge border crossing) and In Lesotho it is far more economical to use a
picked up on a few mountain passes only. Lesotho’s borders and at the airport. If you Maseru. All these services will bring you into car hired in South Africa; just ensure that you
There are no area codes within Lesotho. are a citizen of a country for which a visa is Maseru coming from South Africa; if you are have the written agreement from the hirer.
Lesotho’s country code is %266; to call Le- required (see p749), it’s best to arrange this in leaving Maseru, you’ll need to go to the South There is a road tax of US$0.70, payable on
sotho from South Africa dial the prefix %09- advance. Vaccination certificate requirements Africa side of Maseru Bridge. entering Lesotho.
266. To call South Africa from anywhere in are the same as for South Africa. Avis (%2235 0328) and Budget (%2231 6344)
Lesotho, dial %00-27 and then the South Car & Motorcycle have offices in Maseru (see p143).
African area code and phone number. Air You can’t enter Lesotho via Sani Pass unless
Lesotho’s Moshoeshoe International Airport your vehicle is 4WD, but you can leave in a INSURANCE
TOURIST INFORMATION is 21km from Maseru. conventional vehicle; however, most 2WDs Insurance is strongly recommended (and in
The only tourist information office (Map p142; South African Airways (SAA; %27 11 978 5313) flies won’t have the necessary ground clearance many cases incorporated in the rental price),
%2231 2427; touristinfo@ltdc.org.ls; Kingsway; h8am- daily between Moshoeshoe International Air- to get to Sani Pass. including for third-party damage and dam-
4.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5pm Sat)) is in Maseru and port and Johannesburg for around US$140, age to or loss of your vehicle. Check carefully
is managed by the Lesotho Tourism Devel- one way. GETTING AROUND what you are covered for – hail damage is a
opment Corporation. It provides brochures, Air possibility in Lesotho.
lists of tour guides, information on public Border Crossings For charter flights within Lesotho, the best
transport and basic maps. SOUTH AFRICA contact is Mission Aviation (%2232 5699). ROAD CONDITIONS & HAZARDS
All Lesotho’s borders are with South Africa. Driving in Lesotho is getting easier with new
VISAS Most people enter via Maseru Bridge (open 24 Bicycle sealed roads in the country’s north but a 4WD
Citizens of most Western European countries, hours). Other main border crossings include Extremely mountainous Lesotho is an excel- is obligatory for the country’s rough unsealed
the USA and most Commonwealth countries Ficksburg (open 24 hours), Makhaleng Bridge lent mountain-bike cycling destination – for roads. Main routes are numbered with the
are granted an entry permit (free) at the bor- (open 8am to 6pm Monday to Friday, 8am the seriously fit only. Dangers include icy letter ‘A’; secondary roads take a ‘B’. Motor-
der or airport. The standard stay permitted to 4pm Saturday and Sunday), and Sani Pass roads, thunderstorms and flooding. The clas- cycles are fine on the sealed roads. Beware of
is 14 days and is renewable by leaving and (open 8am to 4pm daily), but these often have sic mountain-bike route in Lesotho is over the treacherously slippery roads in winter.
re-entering the country or by application to long queues. Sani Pass. The odd lodge rents out bicycles Unsealed roads can be rough. Before at-
the Director of Immigration & Passport Services Most of the other entry points in the south (most on the South African) side of the Sani tempting a difficult drive, try to get local info on
(%2232 3771, 2232 1110; PO Box 363, Maseru 100). and the east of the country involve very dif- Pass. current conditions: ask at a police station as no
For citizens of other countries, if you arrive ficult, rough roads. warning signs are displayed. Major hazards are:
at the Maseru Bridge border without a visa Bus & Minibus Taxi steep hairpin bends, flooding rivers (after sum-
you might be given a temporary entry permit, Bus A good network of slow, no-frills buses and mer storms), ice and snow in winter, people and
which allows you to apply for a visa in Maseru Big Sky Coaches (www.bigskycoaches.co.za) and Inter- faster minibus taxis access many towns. Mini- animals. The occasional army roadblock does
at the Ministry of Immigration. Don’t count cape (www.intercape.co.za) operate daily in each buses leave when full; no reservations are random checks, usually for stolen cars.
on this, though, as it depends on the whim of necessary. You’ll be quoted long-distance
the border officials. fares on the buses but it’s best to just buy a ROAD RULES
Visa requirements change, so first check DEPARTURE TAX ticket to the next major town, as most of the In Lesotho, vehicles are driven on the left-
with an embassy. No vaccination certificates A US$4.50 departure tax is payable on leav- passengers will get off there and you might be hand side. The national speed limit is 80km/h
are required unless you have recently been in ing the airport. stuck waiting for the bus to fill up again, while and the speed limit in villages is 50km/h. Seat
a yellow-fever area. other buses leave before yours. Buying tickets belts must be worn at all times. A vehicle
 © Lonely Planet Publications
156 T R A N S P O R T I N L E S OT H O • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d lonelyplanet.com

registration booklet must be carried always, Malealea Lodge (p150) and Semonkong
along with your licence. Lodge (p148) probably offer the best range
of tours, ranging from crosscountry horse
Tours treks to 4WD excursions and walks between
Tour operators in Lesotho are hard to find. the two lodges. However, they don’t offer a
The tourist information office in Maseru pub- comprehensive overland tour of the entire
lishes a list of local operators. country.
LESOTHO

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
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 © Lonely Planet Publications
157

Malawi
Flick through the glossy tourist brochures and the clichés come thick and fast. Malawi is
‘the warm heart of Africa’ or ‘Africa for beginners’, and its lake ‘the lake of stars’. It all seems
too good to be true, but, with stunning and varied scenery and supremely friendly natives,
along with the relative ease of travel here, Malawi really does live up to the hype.

Malawi’s big draw is the lake – a magnificent shard of crystal water stretching some
500km along Malawi’s eastern border, separating it from the wild and mountainous coast of
Mozambique and Tanzania. Isolated villages pepper the northern lakeshore, and the beautiful
Liwonde National Park rests at its southern tip. Around 500 species of fish inhabit the lake,
and the freshwater diving and snorkelling here are excellent.

Malawi’s not just for waterbabies and sun worshippers though, there’s plenty here to keep
you active, and Malawi’s landscape is surprisingly diverse. Head for the misty peaks of Mt
Mulanje or to the Nyika Plateau, where you find sheer escarpments, dramatic peaks, endless
rolling grassland and some of the most enjoyable hiking routes in the whole of Africa.

MALAWI
Many travellers only pass through the country for a couple of days on their way else-
where, intent on racing through to Africa’s ‘bigger’ attractions. This is a shame, as Malawi
has much to offer. Take some time to explore the highland wilderness, dive and swim in
the lake’s warm waters, or simply soak up the vibrant local flavour and you’re sure to find
yourself seduced.

FAST FACTS

Area: 118,484 sq km

Capital: Lilongwe

Country code: %265

Famous for: The lake, laid-back beach
resorts and friendly locals

Languages: English, Chichewa

Money: Malawi kwacha

Phrase: Muli bwanji? (How are you?)

Population: 12 million
 158 MA L A W I • • H i g h l i g h t s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com MA L A W I • • H i s t o r y 159

can reach the wild open spaces of Vwaza MALAWI 0 100 km southern Malawi from western Mozambique,
HOW MUCH? Marsh (p184) and Nyika Plateau (p181) and
0 60 mi
displacing the Maravi, while groups of Zulu

100mL bottle of Nali (Malawi’s own the colonial hilltop town of Livingstonia migrated northward to settle in central and
chilli sauce) US$0.80 (p179). Then head for Nkhata Bay (p188) northern Malawi (where they became known
for some fun in the sun, before catching TANZANIA as the Ngoni).

30mL sachet of Malawi Gin US$0.30
the Ilala ferry over to Likoma (p192) and

Live chicken US$2.50 Chizumulu Islands (p194). Charter a flight Lake
Rukwa The Rise of Slavery
Mt Kaluwe

Bottle of wine US$10-20 or wait for the Ilala to take you back to (2656m) Slavery, and a slave trade, had existed in Africa

ὈὈ
Ὀ

Carving US$12
the mainland. for many centuries, but in the early 19th cen-

One month With a month or longer you Mbeya tury demand from outside Africa increased
LONELY PLANET INDEX could encompass all of these highlights considerably. Swahili-Arabs, who dominated
Tukuyu
and more: check out the southern beach Tunduma
Songw Njombe
the trade on the east coast of Africa, pushed
e

1L of petrol US$1 resorts of Cape Maclear (p201); go hippo River Kyela into the interior, often using the services of

1L of bottled water US$2 spotting on a canoe in Liwonde National Chitipa Songwe powerful local tribes such as the Yao to raid

Ὀ
ὈὈ
Kaporo
Park (p206); or head to the little-visited Chisenga
Karonga and capture their unfortunate neighbours.

Bottle of Kuche Kuche US$0.90
but beautiful wilderness spots of the Isoka Nganda
Peak (2607m) Ngara
Several trading centres were established in

Souvenir T-shirt US $10 Majete Wildlife Reserve (p224) and Lengwe Malawi, including Karonga and Nkhotakota –
Nyika Chilumba

Plate of chips US$1 National Park (p224). Muyombe
Mt Vitumbi
NP
Chitimba
towns that still bear a strong Swahili-Arab
Katumbi
(2527m) Livingstonia influence today.
CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO Vwaza
Muhuju
Mbinga
Songea

HIGHLIGHTS Marsh Rumphi

Early Europeans

ὈὈὈὈ
Ὀ
Malawi has a single wet season, from No- Chama WR u Ruarwe
a

Lake Malawi (p187) Explore the untouched vember to April, when daytime temperatures Usisya
Mbamba Bay The first Europeans to arrive in Malawi were

e
M
Mzuzu

t
9
islands by kayak, commune with the are warm and conditions humid. The best Portuguese explorers who reached the interior

Pl a
Nkhata Bay Mitomani
underwater world or kick back on a near- time to visit Malawi is during the dry season ZA MBIA Mt from Mozambique. One of these was Gaspar
Mpamphala Chintheche
deserted beach. from April/May to October. From May to Mzimba (1954m) Bandawe Chizumulu Is (Malawi) Bocarro who, in 1616, journeyed from Tete
MALAWI

MALAWI
Viphya
M M

Nyika National Park (p181) A sweeping, July the landscape is attractive and vegetation Lundazi Jenda
1 5 Lake
Likoma Is (Malawi)
Cóbuè
(on the Zambezi River) through the Shire
magnificent wilderness filled with ante- green and lush, and temperatures cooler. The Malawi Valley to Lake Chilwa (to the south of Lake
MOZAMBIQUE
lope and zebra, to be explored on foot, months of October and November, at the end Dwangwa Malawi), then through the south of what is
Nkhotakota Metangula
by bike or on horseback. of the dry season, are the best time for wildlife WR Mphonde now Tanzania and back into Mozambique.

Mt Mulanje (p219) Hike the majestic peaks viewing; however, the temperatures can be un- Kasungu Kasungu Nkhotakota The most famous explorer to reach this area
NP
and take in the dramatic views. comfortably hot. Average daytime maximums M M
Mbobo was David Livingstone from Scotland, whose
1

Liwonde National Park (p206) Cruise past in the lower areas are about 21°C in July and 7
Ntchisi Ntchisi Peak
Lichinga
exploration heralded the arrival of Europeans
(1705m)
hippos and crocs on the Shire River, or 26°C in January. In highland areas, average Mponela
Mt Chiponde in a way that was to change the nature of the

ὈὈὈ
Dowa Senga
take a walking safari and get up close and daytime temperatures in July are between 10°C Mchinji
(1607m)
LILONGWE Salima
Bay
Cape Mt Msondole
region forever.
personal with the elephants. and 15°C, while in September they reach 20°C Chipoka Maclear (1800m)

Off the beaten track (p225) Head to the and above. See p742 for climate charts. Munduni (2056m) Monkey
Bay Livingstone & the First Missionaries
Dzalanyama Dedza Mtn Mua
little visited swamplands of the Elephant (2198m) Dedza Chiponde Livingstone’s first foray into Malawi was un-
Marsh to enjoy some of the best bird- HISTORY Mt Chirobwe
Mangochi
Lake
Mandimba planned. Returning to Africa in 1858, after a
(2023m) M
watching in Malawi. The pre-colonial history of Malawi is linked MOZAMBIQUE 1
Malombe
Ulongwe Liwonde
short spell drumming up missionary support

Ὀ
to the history of Southern Africa as a whole. Balaka
NP Nayuchi
back home, he found his planned route up the
ITINERARIES For more detail see p37. Zomba M
Matope Plateau 3
Liwonde
Lake
Zambezi was blocked at Cahora Bassa, so he

Three days Head down to Senga Bay (p198) Zomba
Chilwa followed a major Zambezi tributary called the
from Lilongwe (p167) for a couple of days Early Migrations Songo Mwanza Mwinje
Shire into southern Malawi. He reached Lake

ὅὅ
(1458m)
Zóbuè Blantyre Phalombe
of sun worshipping, then visit the mu- Since the first millennium, the Bantu people Majete Limbe Mt Malawi in September 1859, named it Lake
WR
seum at the Mua Mission (p200) for an eye- had been migrating from Central Africa into Mulanje Mulanje Nyasa and provided fodder for thousands of

ὅὅ
Chikwawa M (3001m)
opening glimpse into Malawi’s cultural the area now occupied by Malawi. Migration Tete Lengwe Thyolo 2 Muloza tourist brochures to come by reportedly dub-
Za

NP
Nchalo Milange
mb

heritage. to the area stepped up with the arrival of the Elephant Mchacha James bing it the ‘lake of stars’. He returned in 1861
e
zi

Marsh Makhanga

One week Head down to Blantyre (p212) Tumbuka and Phoka groups, who settled River
Bangula with some fellow missionaries to establish a
Mwabvi
through the hills and waterfalls of the around the highlands of Nyika and Viphya GR mission in the Shire Highlands, and later on
Nsanje
Zomba Plateau (p210), then meander during the 17th century, and the Maravi the Lower Shire. In 1864, ravaged by malaria
through Malawi’s stunning tea planta- people (from whom the modern-day Chewa Marka and other illnesses, and plagued by conflict
tions before getting in some hiking on are descended), who established a large and LEGEND
with slave-traders and local people, the sur-
the misty peaks of Mt Mulanje (p219). powerful kingdom in the south. GR Game Reserve
NP National Park
viving missionaries withdrew to Zanzibar.

Two weeks Head north from Lilongwe The early 19th century brought with it two WR Wildlife Reserve In 1866 Livingstone returned to Malawi
(p167) to Mzuzu (p185), from where you more significant migrations. The Yao invaded again, on his quest to find the source of the
 160 MA L A W I • • H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com MA L A W I • • H i s t o r y 161

Nile. He died near the village of Chief Chi- Colonial rule brought with it an end to
tambo, southeast of Lake Bangweulu in slave-traders and intertribal conflicts, but it BANNING THE PRESS David Else
Zambia, in 1873. also brought a whole new set of problems. It’s worth noting that it wasn’t only works of literature that incurred the wrath of President Banda.
Livingstone’s death inspired a legion of As more and more European settlers arrived, Several books on contemporary history were also banned, including, perhaps not surprisingly,
wannabes to come to Africa and help save the demand for land grew, and the hapless Malawi – the Politics of Despair. Newspapers from other countries and from within Malawi were
the ‘poor natives’. In 1875 a group from the local inhabitants found themselves labelled also frequently barred from circulation, especially if they were seen to be critical, but sometimes
Free Church of Scotland built a new mission as ‘squatters’ or tenants of a new landlord. even if they weren’t. Any form of pornography was also prohibited, but this included several
at Cape Maclear, which they named Living- A ‘hut tax’ was introduced and traditional medical textbooks, on the grounds that the diagrams were indecent. Even guidebooks didn’t
stonia; and 1876 the Established Church of methods of agriculture were discouraged. In- escape; an early Lonely Planet book called Africa on the Cheap was critical of the regime in the
Scotland built a mission in the Shire High- creasing numbers of Africans were forced to Malawi chapter, and was promptly banned as well. This meant travellers with a low-budget look
lands, which they called Blantyre. Cape Mac- seek work on the white-settler plantations or were often searched for the scurrilous tome, and when I first visited Malawi in the early 1980s,
lear proved to be malarial, so the mission to become migrant workers in Northern and getting across the Songwe border with the book intact was notoriously difficult.
moved to Bandawe, then finally in 1894 to Southern Rhodesia (present-day Zambia and
the high ground of the eastern escarpment. Zimbabwe) and South Africa. By the turn of
This site was successful; the Livingstonia the 18th and 19th centuries some 6000 Africans the country, although it wasn’t until the gained total economic control. In a blow
mission flourished and is still there today were leaving the country every year. (The trend 1950s that Africans were actually allowed to to travellers all over the region, miniskirts,
(see p179). continued through the colonial period: by the enter the government. The economic front women in trousers, long hair for men, and
1950s this number had grown to 150,000.) was similarly sluggish; Nyasaland proved other such signs of Western debauchery were
The Colonial Period to be a relatively unproductive colony outlawed.
The early missionaries blazed the way for Early Protest with no mineral wealth and only limited Alongside this move towards dictatorship,
various adventurers and pioneer traders. In The first serious effort to oppose the Nyasaland plantations. Banda remained politically conservative,
1878 the Livingstonia Central African Mis- colonial government was led by Reverend John In 1953, in an attempt to boost develop- giving political support to apartheid South
sion Company (later renamed the African Chilembwe, who protested in his preaching ment, Nyasaland was linked with Northern Africa, who, in turn, rewarded Malawi with
Lakes Corporation) was formed and built a about white domination, and later about the and Southern Rhodesia in the Federation aid and trade. This angered the Organisation
trading centre in Blantyre. The company then forced conscription of African men into the of Rhodesia and Nyasaland. But the federa- of African Unity (OAU), which was furious
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MALAWI
established a commercial network along the British army at the outbreak of WWI. tion was opposed by the pro-independence at Banda’s refusal to ostracise the apartheid
Shire River and the shores of Lake Nyasa. As In January 1915 Chilembwe and his follow- Nyasaland African Congress (NAC) party, led regime.
intended, this had a serious effect on the slave ers attacked and killed the manager of a large by Dr Hastings Kamuzu Banda. The colonial As well as the usual dictatoresque behaviour
trade in the area, and after several clashes estate. His plan had been to trigger a mass of authorities declared a state of emergency and of living it up at the expense of his citizens
many slave-traders were forced to leave the uprisings, but these failed or didn’t materi- Banda was jailed. and clamping down on freedom of expres-
area. alise, and the rebellion was swiftly crushed By mid-1960 Britain was losing interest in sion, Banda had a bizarre range of habits.
By the 1880s the competition among Euro- by the colonial authorities. Chilembwe was its African colonies. Banda was released, and He developed a fondness for wearing jaunty
pean powers in the area was fierce. In 1889 executed, his church was destroyed, and many returned to head the now renamed Malawi gangster-style hats and carrying an African
Britain allowed Cecil Rhodes’ British South supporters were imprisoned. Today Chilem- Congress Party (MCP), which won elections flywhip; and at public appearances he was
Africa Company to administer the Shire bwe is remembered as a national hero, with held in 1962. The federation was dissolved, often accompanied by a group of women who
Highlands, and in 1891 the British Central many streets named in his honour. and Nyasaland became the independent would dance and chant words of praise, clad
Africa (BCA) Protectorate was extended to country of Malawi in 1964. Two years later, in customised outfits with his face printed
include land along the western side of the Transition & Independence Malawi became a republic and Banda was all over them.
lake. In 1907 the BCA Protectorate became After WWI the British began allowing the made president. With the end of the East/West ‘cold war’
the colony of Nyasaland. African population a part in administering in the 1990s, things began to get dicey for
The Banda Years Banda. South Africa and the West no longer
President Banda began consolidating his pos- needed to support him, and inside the country
THE NAMING OF MALAWI ition and demanded that several ministers de- opposition was swelling. In 1992 the Catholic
The derivation of the name Malawi is disputed. When David Livingstone first came across Lake clare their allegiance to him. Many resigned bishops of Malawi condemned the regime
Malawi, he called it Lake Nyasa (derived from the word nyanja, which simply means ‘lake’ in the rather than do so and took to opposition. and called for change, and demonstrations,
language of the indigenous Chewa people) and recorded in his journal that Maravi people (of Banda forced them into exile and banned both peaceful and violent, added their weight
whom the Chewa people were part) inhabited the area. other political parties. He continued to in- to the bishops’ move. As a final blow, donor
At independence in 1964 a commission was given the task of finding a new name for a new crease his power by becoming ‘President for countries restricted aid until Banda agreed to
country. Malawi was chosen – inspired by the word malavi, which means ‘reflected light’, ‘haze’, Life’ in 1971, banning the foreign press, and relinquish total control.
‘flames’ or ‘rays’ in Chichewa. (The word is also spelt maravi – ‘l’ and ‘r’ seem interchangeable waging vendettas against any group regarded In June 1993 a referendum was held for
in Chichewa.) This new name was seen as a reference to the sun rising over the lake, bringing as a threat. He established Press Holdings, the people to choose between a multiparty
fresh light to the country. It may also be connected to the Maravi people. effectively his personal conglomerate, and political system and Banda’s autocratic rule.
The ‘w’ in Malawi was originally pronounced as a soft ‘v’. Nowadays the name of the country the Agricultural Development and Market- Over 80% of eligible voters took part; those
is generally pronounced with the ‘w’ sound. ing Corporation, to which all agricultural voting for a new system won easily, and Banda
produce was sold at fixed rates, and thus accepted the result.
 162 MA L A W I • • T h e C u l t u re lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com MA L A W I • • T h e C u l t u re 163

Multiparty Democracy he aired the idea of proposing a Third Term

At Malawi’s first full multiparty election in Bill instead, which would have extended his THE CHEWA
May 1994, the victor was the United Demo- presidency for one more term. The Chewa are the largest ethnic group in Malawi, although their ancestors hail from the Congo.
cratic Front (UDF), led by Bakili Muluzi. On When this failed, Muluzi chose Bingu During the first millennium, they migrated through Zambia and then on to central Malawi, con-
becoming President, Muluzi moved quickly – wa Mutharika as his successor, and in 2004 quering land as they went and eventually establishing a powerful kingdom in 1480 that covered
political prisons were closed, freedom of he duly won the election. Many thought he southern Malawi as well as swathes of Mozambique and Zambia. During the 17th century, Malawi
speech and print was permitted, and free pri- would simply follow in Muluzi’s footsteps, experienced an influx of diverse cultures and dynasties, but the Chewa kept their ethnicity distinct
mary school education was to be provided. but he soon declared his independence by through language, tattoos and secret societies.
The unofficial night curfew that had existed quitting the UDF and setting up his own The Chewa believe that God (Chiuta or Chautu) created all living things during a thunderstorm,
during Banda’s time was lifted. For travellers, party, the Democratic Progressive Party at a mountain range that straddles the Malawi and Mozambique border. They also believe that
the most tangible change was the repeal of that (DPP). His presidency seemed like a breath contact between spirits and the living is achieved through a dance called gule wamkulu, in which
notorious dress code. of fresh air and he set about stemming leading dancers dress in ragged costumes of cloth and animal skins, usually wearing a mask and
The Muluzi Government also made several corruption, stepping up the fight against occasionally standing on stilts. Today, however, Chewa culture is a mixture of traditional beliefs
economic reforms with the help of the World HIV/AIDS, attempting to attract greater and European influences; although Christianity is the dominant religion, it’s common practice to
Bank and the IMF; these included the with- foreign investment, and, more controver- consult a witch doctor in times of trouble. If you are interested in this process, you can arrange
drawal of state subsidies and the liberalisation sially, restoring Banda’s reputation as a great a consultation with a witch doctor on Likoma Island (see p193).
of foreign exchange laws. African hero. To really experience Chewa culture, it’s best to immerse yourself in a village. There are cul-
In April 1995 former president Banda was The massive famine in 2005 put the pres- tural villages offering overnight stays near Liwonde National Park (p206) and the Vwaza Marsh
brought to trial accused of ordering the mur- sure on, though, and in early 2006 the Mutha- Wildlife Reserve (p184).
der of three government ministers who died rika government was rocked by scandal and
in a mysterious car accident in 1983. He was political infighting that threatened to under-
acquitted and the result was greeted with mine its effectiveness. plaining about or stressing over the small live at home until they are married. The legal
general approval, especially when Banda went things in life. age for marriage in Malawi is 15, but there are
on to apologise publicly. As the population THE CULTURE Malawians can be pretty conservative, many cases of girls getting married as young
warmed once more to Banda, it became clear The National Psyche though. Women tend to dress modestly and as 11 or 12. Because of this phenomenon, the
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MALAWI
that the UDF’s honeymoon period was well Most Malawians live up to and are proud of respectable ladies are not seen in bars un- average age of marriage in Malawi is amongst
and truly over. their reputation as some of the friendliest accompanied. Walking around in revealing the lowest in the world, while the percentage
By 1996 the economic reforms were hitting people in Africa. They tend to be very gener- clothing is seen as inappropriate for both men of teenage mothers is one of the highest.
the average Malawian citizen very hard. Food ous and will go out of their way to help oth- and women. Public drunkenness is frowned Like many other African countries, gender
prices and unemployment soared. There were ers. People will offer you food, invite you to upon, as are open displays of affection be- inequality is evident in all walks of life and is
reports of increased malnutrition, and crime, their homes for dinner and take you on tours tween men and women. Great respect is ac- particularly reflected in the disproportionate
particularly robbery, increased in urban areas. around their hometown, and they’re always corded to the older generation, who should amount of work that women do. For example,
Matters were made worse by a slow resump- keen to chat and tell you (with a great deal of always be treated in a courteous manner. as well as doing most of the work around
tion of international aid, after it had been pride) about their country. Look a little lost the home, women also undertake the bulk
frozen in the final years of Banda’s rule. and you’ll soon have offers of help. And unlike Daily Life of farm work.
In November 1997 Dr Banda finally died. in some other countries, there’s no sense that For the average Malawian, economic con-
His age was unknown, but he was certainly they’re just doing so just because they want ditions are not good. Malawi remains one Population
over 90. something from you. of the world’s poorest countries, with a per Estimates put Malawi’s total population at
In July 2002 Muluzi attempted to change Malawians have a great sense of humour, capita gross national product (GNP) of around 12 million. Because the county is
the constitution by proposing an Open Terms and any misunderstanding will usually be around US$170. Other socioeconomic indi- small, this creates one of the highest popu-
Bill to parliament, which would have given greeted with peals of laughter. They’re also cators paint a grim picture: infant mortality lation densities in Africa. About 85% of the
him life presidency. When it was defeated, laid back, and don’t see the point in com- is around 9% and, although the population people live in rural areas and are engaged
growth rate has dropped in recent years, the in subsistence farming or fishing, or work-
fall is due largely to AIDS. The HIV/AIDS ing on commercial farms and plantations.
FAMINE IN MALAWI infection rate in Malawi is estimated to run Around half the population is under 15 years
In 2005, after a shorter than average rainy season and the worst harvest for a decade, Malawi, at over 14%. Driven by this scourge, life ex- of age.
as with much of Southern Africa, was affected by severe drought and famine. Around five mil- pectancy has fallen to around 40.
lion Malawians – almost half the population – were experiencing food shortages, prompting Malawi is urbanising rapidly, and the rate Multiculturalism
President Mutharika to declare a national disaster. Many expected there to be loss of life and of population growth in the cities is far higher The main ethnic groups are: Chewa, domi-
famine on a huge scale. However, although there is still widespread hunger, it seems that for than that in rural areas. Natural resources nant in the central and southern parts of the
the time being that scenario has been averted. Early 2006 saw greater food aid, longer rains, a struggle to support the burgeoning popula- country; Yao in the south; and Tumbuka in
bumper harvest, and successful government initiatives, including a sponsored fertiliser program. tion, and schools, hospitals and other social the north. Other groups are: Nguni, in parts of
Until more long-term steps are taken, however, it seems that there is little to prevent such a institutions are overflowing. the central and northern provinces; Chipoka,
large-scale disaster from happening again. Family life is very important here and most also in the central area; and Tonga, mostly
Malawians, even more affluent urbanites, will along the lakeshore.
 164 MA L A W I • • S p o r t lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com MA L A W I • • A r t s & C r a f t s 165

traditional dance is known as the Gule Wam- (see the boxed text, opposite). Much of its
MOVERS & SHAKERS: JACK MAPANJE kulu, which reflects the traditional belief in symbolism was obscure for outsiders, but not
Poet and activist, Malawi’s Jack Mapanje is one of the most influential living writers to come out spirits (see p163). for President Banda – in 1987 Mapanje was
of Africa. Born in 1944 in a small, poor Malawian village, he started writing poems inspired by arrested and imprisoned without charge; he
the corruption and maltreatment that he saw all around him. Through his book Of Chameleons Literature was eventually released in 1991.
& Gods, he voiced his anger, albeit couched in metaphor, at the brutal Banda regime and was Like most countries in Africa, Malawi has Another significant literary figure is David
one of the few who dared to do so. a very rich tradition of oral literature. Since Rubadi, who has compiled an anthology called
The volume was soon won international acclaim for which Mapanje received the Rotterdam independence, a new school of writers has Poetry from East Africa (which includes a
International Poetry Prize. In 1985, once the government cottoned on to what his poems were emerged, although thanks to the despotic section on Malawi) and also writes poetry
really about, the book was withdrawn from all bookshops and libraries. A mere two years later, President Banda’s insensitivity to criticism, himself. His novels include No Bride Price,
while drinking in a bar in Zomba, Mapanje was arrested and imprisoned without trial or charge many were under threat of imprisonment which discusses the familiar themes of cor-
for over three years. His arrest and subsequent incarceration provoked an international outcry and lived abroad until the mid-1990s. Not ruption and oppression.
and writers and linguists all over the world took up his cause, including Harold Pinter, Noam surprisingly, oppression, corruption, deceit Most critics agree that Malawi’s leading
Chomsky and Wole Soyinka. While in prison he composed a number of poems which would later and the abuse of power are common themes novelist is Legson Kayira, whose semiauto-
be published in the volume The Chattering Wagtails of Mikuyu Prison, where he would describe in their writing. biographical I Will Try and The Looming
cells filled with ‘blood-bloated’ mosquitos where ‘desperate voices of fractured souls’ struggled If you want a taste of current literature by Shadow earned him acclaim in the 1970s. A
to make themselves heard. well-known or new writers, try any of the later work is The Detainee. Another novelist is
Upon his release, he went into exile in England, where he continues to teach today, and to short novels or poetry collections under the Sam Mpasu. His Nobody’s Friend was a com-
promote and support African writers. Most recently he edited Gathering Seaweed, a collection of Malawi Writers Series imprint, available in ment on the secrecy of Malawian politics – it
poems, plays and memoirs from Africans who, like Mapanje himself, were imprisoned by their good bookshops in Blantyre and Lilongwe. earned him a 2½-year prison sentence. After
governments. Most cost less than US$1. his release he wrote Prisoner 3/75 and later
Poetry is very popular. Steve Chimombo is became minister for education in the new
a leading poet whose collections include Na- UDF government. His comments on Banda’s
The number of Malawians of European Sailing is popular among more affluent polo Poems. His most highly acclaimed work rule sum up the situation for all Malawian
descent is less than 1% – the country was only Malawians and expats, and every July the Lake is a complex poetic drama, The Rainmaker. writers, and the people of Malawi too: ‘We
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MALAWI
a British protectorate and few chose to settle Malawi 500km Sailing Marathon takes place. To many Malawians he is better known for had peace, but it was the peace of a cemetery.
here. Most Westerners in Malawi are here on It’s the world’s longest freshwater race, dur- his popular short stories in newspapers and Our lips were sealed by fear.’
a short-term basis and involved in business, ing which catamarans race the entire length magazines, with their vivid combination of
aid or the diplomatic service. of the lake. traditional themes and harsh urban settings. Music
There is also a small Indian population Other popular sports include volleyball, Jack Mapanje’s first poetry collection, Of Home-grown contemporary music is be-
in Malawi, who are mostly involved in com- golf and basketball. In 2006 Malawi sent a Chameleons and Gods, was published in 1981 coming increasingly popular in Malawi,
merce. Indians first came to the country when team of squash players to the Commonwealth
they were brought in by the British in the Games.
early 1900s to help construct a railway line Athletics and cross-country running are THE MARTYR & THE MUSIC
between Malawi and Mozambique. During also gaining more prominence, thanks in part In 2000 a young musician named Evison Matafale made his mark on Malawi’s popular reggae
the Banda regime, they were not allowed to to the international success of long-distance scene, amassing huge domestic and growing international support with his charismatic melodies
participate in politics and certain sections of runner Catherine Chikwakwa. and outspoken social and political expression. His future was bright and he was soon declared
the economic sector, and many were forced Malawi’s unofficial king of the genre.
to leave the country. RELIGION Not all were charmed by his assessment of the government, though, and on 24 November 2001
Christianity is the majority religion in Ma- he was arrested for allegedly writing a seditious letter criticising President Bakili Muluzi. Three days
SPORT lawi, making up about 75% of the population, later, while still in police custody, Matafale was declared dead at Lilongwe Central Hospital.
The most popular sport in Malawi is football, although for many Malawians, Western be- The official post mortem indicated that he died from acute pneumonia, and Matafale was
which is played throughout the country at all liefs are intertwined with traditional African certainly ill at the time of his incarceration. However, a second post mortem, conducted at the
levels, from young boys on makeshift pitches practices. request of his brother – a UDF regional governor – suggested the cause of death was less clear
to the national team. Malawi’s national team Muslims make up almost 20% of the popu- and that Matafale had sustained internal bleeding in the days leading to his death. An avalanche
is nicknamed the Flames. They are not major lation. The people of the Yao tribe along the of public outrage ensued, prompting a joint commission of inquiry to probe the circumstances
players on the world stage and are currently southern lakeshore are the most closely as- of the musician’s death.
ranked 26th in Africa and 107th in the world. sociated with Islam. The official finding maintained the hospital’s autopsy conclusion, but also found that the po-
Each year, regional teams in Malawi battle it See p45 for more information. lice had exercised negligence by incarcerating Matafale when he was visibly ill. What is without
out for the Super League championships and question is that the life of a talented and revered musician was tragically cut short, creating a
the most popular teams in the country are the ARTS & CRAFTS martyr for all avenues of free expression in Malawi.
Big Bullets and the MTL Wanderers. For details Dance Matafale released two albums in his short-lived career – Kuyimba 1 and Kuyimba 2; both can
of local fixtures, check the newspapers, look out Dance is an important social element across be bought on virtually any street corner in Malawi’s larger towns and cities.
for billboards or check out the website of the Malawi, and most dances are rooted in trad-
Football Association of Malawi (www.fam.mw). itional beliefs and customs. The most famous
 166 MA L A W I • • E n v i r o n m e n t lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com L I L O N G W E 167

due largely to influential and popular musi- disappointed. However, for those less con- which result from a rapidly growing popula- meal of beans or meat and nsima for about
cians such as Lucius Banda, who performs cerned with simply ticking off the ‘Big Five’, tion and increasing pressures on the land – US$0.50.
soft ‘Malawian-style’ reggae with his band the country has plenty to offer. The main the vast majority of Malawians live without Local restaurants in small towns provide
Zembani, and the late Evison Matafale (see park is Liwonde, which is home to plenty of electricity and therefore the use of wood as a simple meals for around US$1.50. In cities
the boxed text, p165). Other reggae names elephants, hippos, antelope species and bird source of fuel in Malawi is very high. In the and larger towns, cheap restaurants serve
to look out for are Billy Kaunda and Nyasa life. Kasungu National Park is also home to mid-1970s Malawi’s forest cover was 4.4 mil- traditional Malawian food as well as chicken
Gurus. Bubulezis plays Jamaican-style reg- elephants, as is Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve, lion hectares. It’s now under two million, with or fish (the most popular being chambo) with
gae, while the Sapitwa Band tends towards where you’ll also meet several antelope species, over 50,000 hectares being cleared each year, rice or chips for around US$2.50.
Congo-style rhumba. Also popular is Ethel buffaloes and if you’re lucky, leopards. Nyika mostly for fuel. Although some replanting Most midrange hotels and restaurants serve
Kamwendo, one of Malawi’s leading female National Park is renowned for roan antelopes is taking place, at this current unsustainable European-style food such as steak, chicken or
singers. For more on other musical styles in and reedbucks; you’ll also see zebras, warthogs rate the woodlands and forests will eventually fish, which is served with vegetables and chips
the region, see p52. and jackals, and at night you could well hear disappear. or rice – usually around the US$5 mark.
hyenas prowling around your tent. Nearby Another environmental challenge faced by If you’re hankering for something different,
Sculpture Vwaza Marsh is known for its hippos and, in Malawi is overfishing. Population growth over in Blantyre and Lilongwe you can find res-
You’ll see woodcarvings and stone carvings in the dry season, is the best place in the country the years means that the demand for fish has taurants serving Ethiopian, Indian, Korean,
craft shops and markets all over the country, to get up close and personal with elephants. In grown, to an extent that stocks are now taken Chinese and Portuguese food. Main courses
but you won’t find anything there by Kay southern Malawi, Lengwe National Park sup- from the lake at an unsustainable level. In an range from around US$5 to US$10.
Chirombo, Lemon Moses, Willie Nampeya, ports a population of nyalas – at the northern effort to minimise overfishing, the govern- Traditional beer of the region is made from
Berling Kaunda, Charley Bakari or Louis Dim- limit of its distribution in Africa. ment imposes an ‘off-season’ moratorium, maize; in Malawi this is commercially brewed
pwa. These are some of Malawi’s leading art- For bird-watchers, Malawi is a dream come which prohibits the capture of certain fish for as Chibuku, and sold all over the country in
ists, producing sculpture, batiks and paintings, true; over 600 species have been recorded, and several months starting in November. In 2003 large red-and-blue cartons. For most travel-
and many have exhibited outside Malawi. Pos- a visit to any of the parks or wildlife reserves the Malawi Fisheries Department launched a lers, the thick texture and bittersweet taste are
sibly the best-known artist is Cuthy Mede – will reward serious ornithologists, tourists 10-year plan to restore depleted fish stocks to not appealing. Malawi’s local larger is called
he is also actively involved in the development and everyone in between with a diverse and maximum sustainable yields. Kuche Kuche.
and promotion of Malawian art within the colourful array of species. Poaching of wildlife from national parks Most travellers (and many Malawians)
MALAWI

MALAWI
country and around the world. Lake Malawi has more fish species than any was a major environmental problem in the prefer the beer produced by Carlsberg at its
other inland body of water in the world, with 1980s and early 1990s, and wildlife was se- Blantyre brewery (the only one in Africa).
ENVIRONMENT a total of over 500, of which more than 350 verely depleted. Although the situation is bet- There are three main types of beer: ‘greens’
The Land are endemic. (For more information see the ter than it once was, poaching still threatens (lager), ‘browns’ (like a British ale) and ‘golds’
Malawi is wedged between Zambia, Tanzania boxed text, p199.) the wildlife of some of Malawi’s national parks (a stronger brew). If you’re a beer fan, you can
and Mozambique, measuring roughly 900km and reserves. visit the brewery (see p214).
long and between 80km and 150km wide, with National Parks To learn more, or to help, get in touch with
an area of 118,484 sq km.
Lake Malawi covers almost one-fifth of
Malawi’s total area. A strip of low ground runs
There are five national parks in Malawi:
Lengwe, Liwonde, Kasungu, Nyika and Lake
Malawi (around Cape Maclear). There are also
Ripple Africa (see p191) or the Wildlife Action
Group of Malawi (www.wag-malawi.org). They both
run admirable conservation projects, and
LILONGWE
along the western lakeshore, sometimes 10km four wildlife reserves: Vwaza Marsh, Nkho- both organisations accept volunteers. Lilongwe is hardly awash with excitement –
wide, sometimes so narrow there’s only room takota, Mwabvi and Majete, which are less it’s a sleepy little city that, while perfectly
for a precipitous footpath between the lake developed than the national parks, with fewer FOOD & DRINK pleasant, isn’t particularly interesting or
and the steep wall of the valley. Beyond the accommodation options and a more limited The staple diet for most Malawians is nsima, memorable. The quiet buzz of the Old Town,
lake, escarpments rise to high rolling plateaus network of roads and tracks (if they exist at a porridge made out of maize meal and water, with its craft stalls, market, nice little cafés
covering much of the country. Malawi’s main all). Malawi also has many forest reserves in- which is eaten with vegetables and/or hot and drinking holes, is at its heart, and this
highland areas are Nyika and Viphya in the cluding Mt Mulanje and the Zomba Plateau. relish, and occasionally meat or fish. Fish is where you’re likely to spend most of your
north and Mt Mulanje in the south. For more information on the facilities at each is particularly good here, and chambo, the time. The more modern city centre has little
Malawi’s main river is the Shire (pro- park and reserve see their individual listings. popular, bream-like variety, can be found to offer – it’s a soulless collection of banks,
nounced shir-ee); it flows out of the southern All parks and reserves cost US$5 per person on every menu, from cheap cafés to top-end office buildings and embassies. At the week-
end of Lake Malawi, through Lake Malombe per day (each 24-hour period), plus US$2 per restaurants. If you’re self-catering, Peoples ends movement in Lilongwe is reduced to a
and then southward as the plateau gives way car per day. Citizens and residents pay less. Supermarkets are found all over Malawi and trickle, particularly on Sunday, when sleeping
to low ground, to flow into the Zambezi River Other costs are for optional services: a fishing Shoprite has made an entrance in larger cities. and church attendance seem to be the main
in Mozambique. In this area, the lowest point licence costs US$4 and the hire of a wildlife Both stock locally produced and imported activities.
is a mere 37m above sea level. scout guide costs US$5 to US$10. All fees are goods, many of them from South Africa or Most travellers will spend a day or two
payable in kwacha. Europe and sold at similar prices. here at some point, which isn’t all bad news.
Wildlife Markets and bus stations usually harbour There are good facilities in Lilongwe, and it’s
Malawi is not often thought of as a great Environmental Issues a collection of food stalls, where you can get a decent enough spot to refuel and get things
place to see wildlife and if you’re looking for The main environmental challenges facing tea with milk for US$0.30 and a bread cake or done before heading off to discover Malawi’s
a stereotypical safari experience, you’ll be Malawi are deforestation and soil erosion, deep-fried cassava for US$0.20, or a simple real attractions.
 168 L I L O N G W E • • H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com L I L O N G W E 169

HISTORY Central Bookshop (Map p171; Nico Shopping Centre, LILONGWE 0

0
1 km
0.5 miles
Originally a small village on the banks of the Kamuzu Procession Rd) Sells a surprisingly good stock of
Lilongwe River, Lilongwe became a British African literature and local guidebooks. A B C D
colonial administrative centre around the turn TBS bookshop (Map p171; Nico Shopping Centre, INFORMATION Telekom Centre........................... 13 A4 EATING
of the 20th century, after its chief requested Kamuzu Procession Rd) In Old Town; sells international Adventist Health Centre...................1 C2 UK High Commission...................14 C3 Annie's Coffee Shop..............26 B5
British Council Learning Centre........2 D3 US Embassy..................................15 C3 Buchanan's Grill.....................27 D3
protection from warlike neighbours. Due to and local newspapers and magazines, and some paperback 1 Dr Huber..........................................3 A6 Wilderness Safaris........................16 C3 Café Delight.......................... 28 A4
its central location on the main north–south novels. German Embassy.............................4 C3 Zambian High Commission..........17 C3 Food Stalls.............................29 C3
John F Kennedy Memorial Information Zimbabwean High Commission....18 D3 PTC Hypermarket..................30 C3
route and the road to Northern Rhodesia (later

ὈὈ
Resource Centre.......................(see 33) Tidye Restaurant..................(see 22)
Zambia), Lilongwe soon became Malawi’s Emergency Lilongwe Central Hospital................5 C4 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Rd
Ministry of Tourism, Parks & Lilongwe Nature Sanctuary..........19 C4 DRINKING Area 10
second-largest urban centre. Plans announced The emergency number for police and ambu-

St
n
Wildlife........................................6 C3 Market.........................................20 B5 Africana Hotel....................... 31 D3

essio

Blantyre
in 1968 to relocate the country’s adminis- lance is %199 (Lilongwe and Blantyre only), Money Bureau.............................(see 33) Chameleon Bar....................(see 27)

Proc
Money Bureau.............................(see 34) SLEEPING C
Legends.................................
ha 32 B4
tration from Blantyre were fully realised in but there are never enough vehicles, so if you Mozambican Embassy......................7 C3 Area Lodge
Annie's 18 Area 47.................21 B2
ya
Zebra Bar.............................(see
m 24)

uzu
b a
National Bank of Malawi..................8 D3 Capital Hotel................................22 D2
1975, when Lilongwe was officially declared need assistance you’ll probably have to go to Rd

Kam
Post Office.......................................9 C3 Cresta Crossroads Hotel.............(see 34) SHOPPING
Capital Hill
the capital. the police station by taxi and bring an officer Reserve Bank Building....................10 C3 Kiboko Camp...............................23 A6 City Centre Shopping Centre..33 D3
(Government

ὈὈ
South African High Commission.....11 D3 Lingadzi Inn..................................24 B3 Ministries) Complex.............. 34 A4
Crossroads
back to the scene of the crime. Once you’ve 2
Stanbic Bank..................................12 C3 Sunset Lodge...............................25 B5
ORIENTATION contacted the police, put aside several hours To Area 10; Annie's

Chilembwe Rd

Rd
Area 47 To Medical Air Rescue Service (MARS, 2km); Lodge Area 10; Area
Area 47 Stadium
Lilongwe is unusually spread out and rather while they laboriously take a statement, which Kanengo Industrial Area (5km); Lilongwe 43; Heughlin's Lodge

uzu
International Airport (21km); Salima (100km); (3km)
21

nd
than one CBD, has two centres: City Centre will then cost you around US$30. If you are Kasungu (138km); Mzuzu (379km)

Du
Presidential Way Area 11
and Old Town. City Centre is rather loose and seriously injured, don’t waste time phoning an 1
22
sterile. Three kilometres south, Old Town has ambulance – get a taxi straight to hospital. 14
39

ὈὈ
33
a good range of places to stay, the bus station, Li
ng
17
4 9
11
18
the market and several restaurants, all in a Internet Access 7 30 2 31 To Parliament 27

ad
Ch
36 Building (2km)

zi
15 29

ilam
condensed area easily covered on foot. Internet access is readily available in Lilongwe Independence

n Dr
Riv 6 Dr
er

bu
Afric
and there are several cheap options both in 3 an U

Rd

la R
10

Conventio
8 nity
16 Ave
Maps 12

on
Old Town and the City Centre. City

d
ssi
MALAWI

24

MALAWI
Centre

ce
Survey maps of Malawi and some of its cities Comptech Cyber Café (Map p171; Mandala Rd; per hr

Pro
You
are available from the Department of Surveys

zu
US$3) Fast internet connection, printing and photocopying th

mu
Dr
Map Sales Office (Map p169), about 500m

Ka
as well as Skype telephone service. Entrance to
Lilongwe Nature
south of the roundabout where Glyn Jones Rd Globe Computer Systems (Map p169; ADL House; per To Nelly's Guest House (1.5km);
Mchinji (115km);
Lilongwe
Nature Sanctuary
Sanctuary

meets Kamuzu Procession Rd. See also p229. hr US$3) Chipata (Zambia) (145km) 19
MGI Cyber Café (Map p171; Nico Shopping Centre,
INFORMATION Kamuzu Procession Rd; per hr US$2.80) Offers quick access. 13 32

Rd
28 Youth
Bookshops

ula
Telekom Centre (Map p169; Kamuzu Procession Rd; per 4 Dr

ver
34

mb
M
CIVO zim
Bookmart (Map p171; Mandala Rd) An excellent second-

ila
hr US$5) Opposite Crossroads Complex. Speedy internet as 5

e Ri
Stadium ba

Ch
St

ngw
Rd
hand bookshop with a wide range of recent bestsellers, well as international telephone services.

Ka

tta

Lilo
m
classics, and travel books. It also has a small coffee bar so Selou

ya
Old Town

uz
s Rd

n
u
(Area 4)

Ke
Libraries

Pr
you can have a latte while you browse.

Rd
oc
es
Central Africana (Map p171; Old Town Mall) Has a The British Council Learning Centre (Map p169;

sio

Rd
Old Town

Murray
Rd

n
(Area 2)
% 01-773244; info@britishcouncil.org.mw; h 12pm-

le
diverse selection of travel, history and nature books. It also

wa
Ka
v e
does a nice line in leather-bound, secondhand Africana 5.30pm Mon, 8.30am-5.30pm Tue-Thu, 8.30am-12pm Sat), s A
Law

Johnstone R

d
Colb

e R
Ko
books and old colonial-style maps. off Independence Dr, and the John F Kennedy 26 pp
el

y R
St

tric
5 Old Town

Rd
d

Bea
(Area 3) Glyn Ka
25 Jon wa

ni
d
es

ba
le
LILONGWE IN… Old Town Rd

Lu
Rd

Rd
See Lilongwe Area 4 Map (p171) (Area 1) le
wa
Ka
e
Two Days
Av

20
Mtunt h a m

35
pe

d
Start your day with breakfast in one of the many local cafés in the Old Town (see p174) to take
ar

sR
Sh

ne

Ka
Jo

in a slice of Malawi daily life. Then barter for carvings at the craft stalls (p175) outside the post

Rd
37 38

mu
yn

3
a

Gl

nga

zu
office on Mandala Rd after which you can spend your afternoon at the nearby market (p171)
Rd

Likuni Pr

ngala
Roundabout oc
by the main bus station, to soak up the lively atmosphere and snap up some bootleg CDs. After es
sio
Livingstone

Mala
n
all the excitement, head into the City Centre for a leisurely dinner at Buchanan’s Grill (p174) at Golf
Course TRANSPORT

Rd
23
the Four Seasons Centre followed by a cocktail or two at the Chameleon Bar (p175). 6 Buses to Dar es Salaam & Lusaka......35 B5
On your second day, head for the tobacco auction floors (p171) to see the heart of Malawi’s KLM & Kenya Airways.....................36 D3
Rd

Local Minibus Rank..........................37 B6

economic life in action. Then spend the afternoon at the Nature Sanctuary (p171) before explor- To Likuni Mission Hospital (6km); Main Bus Station..............................38 B6
Dzalanyama (50km) South African Airways....................(see 22)
ing Old Town’s bars and restaurants (p174 and p175) for the evening. To Dedza (85km);
Zomba (300km); Taxi Rank.........................................39 D3
Blantyre (310km)
 170 L I L O N G W E • • I n f o r m a t i o n lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com L I L O N G W E • • D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s 171

Memorial Information Resource Center (Map p169; Victoria Forex (Map p171; %08-825545; Nico Shop- DANGERS & ANNOYANCES SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
%01-772222; Old Mutual Bldg, City Centre Shopping Centre; ping Centre) Offers a similar service to Money Bureau. Muggings and the occasional stabbing have The main market (Map p169; Malangalanga Rd) is
h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Wed, 8.30am-12.30pm Thu) allow become a serious problem around the Nature a pocket of frenetic activity, with traders,
nonmembers to read books and magazines in Photography Sanctuary over the past few years, and if you market stalls and food vendors packed into a
the library, but not to take them away. Both Lee Photo Studio (Map p171; Nico Shopping Centre) plan to visit get a taxi to inside the gate. Even swarming, small area. It’s also a good place to
places also show films on some afternoons Print film, developing, printing, prints from digital cameras inside the sanctuary, it’s wise to get a guard to pick up cheap bootleg CDs from the dozens of
and evenings. Check their noticeboards for and instant passport photos are available here. Digital show you around if you’re alone. Even mini- little stores that line the streets immediately
details. printing costs US$0.80 per photo. Developing from film buses can be unsafe, as the bus stop itself has be- around the market.
costs US$9 for a roll of 24 and US$11 for 36. come a target. Walking there is extremely risky. For a view of Malawi’s economic heart, go
Medical Services Ask at your lodge, hostel or hotel for up-to-date to the public gallery overlooking the tobacco
There are MPL pharmacies at the Nico Shop- Post info regarding security around this area. auction floors (%01-710377; Kenango Industrial Area;
ping Centre in Old Town and in City Centre Post office (Map p171; Kamuzu Procession Rd; During the day, once you leave Malanga- admission free) at the vast Auction Holdings ware-
Shopping Centre. h7.30am-12pm and 1-5pm, Mon-Fri) langa Rd, things are OK and you can walk house about 7km north of the city centre, east
Adventist Health Centre (Map p169; %01-775456; Post office (Map p169; h7.30am-12pm and 1-5pm, to Area 3. At night, Malangalanga Rd can of the main road towards Kasungu. This is
Presidential Way) Good for consultations, plus eye and Mon-Fri) Located next to the City Centre Shopping Centre. be dangerous, and walking to Area 3 is not best reached by taxi, but local minibuses serve
dental problems. recommended. The bridge between Area 2 the industrial area. The auction season is May
Dr Huber (Map p169; %01-750404, 09-919548; Glyn Telephone & Fax and Area 3 is a favourite haunt for muggers. If to September. See the boxed text, p172 for
Jones Rd) Has been highly recommended to us for private Many lodges and hotels have phones that their you arrive on a bus after dark, take a minibus more information on this vital commodity.
consultations, although can be expensive. guests can use to make international phone or taxi to your accommodation. For a total change of pace, however, head
Likuni Mission Hospital (%01-766602; Glyn Jones calls. In addition, several internet cafés also for the Nature Sanctuary (Map p169; Kenyatta Rd;
Rd) A better option than Lilongwe Central Hospital, 7km offer an international telephone service, or Scams admission US$0.50; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat),
southwest of Old Town, with public wards, private rooms, can hook you up to the Sykpe web telephone Bus tickets should be only bought at the bus an incredibly peaceful wilderness area by the
and some expat European doctors on staff. Fees for those service on their computers. At Globe Computer station or the Shire Bus Lines depot near Shop- Lingadzi River. Take a taxi here, though; it’s
who can afford them start at US$100 per day. Systems (Map p169; %01-774834; ADL House) and the rite; some travellers have been conned out of not safe to walk (see Dangers & Annoyances,
Lilongwe Central Hospital (Map p169; %01- Telekom Centre (Map p169; Kamuzu Procession Rd) you can money by buying tickets on the street when left). There is a signposted network of walk-
MALAWI

MALAWI
753555) Off Mzimba St. Conditions and facilities are not make international calls for US$4 per minute there is no such service. ing trails, and the information centre lists the
good, but an ‘expat bed’ (a private ward) costs about to anywhere outside Africa, at any time.
US$50 per night. LILONGWE AREA 4 0 300 m
0 0.2 miles
Medical Air Rescue Service Clinic (MARS; %01- Tourist Information CIVO
794036, 236644; www.mars.co.zw; Ufulu Rd, Area 43) The Ministry of Tourism, Parks and Wildlife (Map A Stadium B C D
best place for major matters. Fees are US$60 per consult- p169; %01-771295; Tourism House; h7.30am- 5pm INFORMATION Mamma Mia......................(see 25)
Bookmart...............................(see 22) Modi's..................................18 D2
ation, US$120 after hours and US$100 for an overnight Mon-Fri & 8-10am Sat) The tourist office is located here, Central Africana.....................(see 25) Shoprite...............................19 D2
stay. MARS also has ambulances with staff highly trained off Convention Dr, but information and advice is minimal. Central Bookshop..................(see 24) Summer Park.....................(see 13)

d
1

R
Comptech Cyber Café ..............1 C2 Terrace Bistro.....................(see 11)

la
in emergency treatment. They will rescue you anywhere For details on tours, flights and hotels you’re better off at

u
Department of Surveys Map Sales 25

mb
3

ila
within 50km of Lilongwe for US$50 per half-hour, but need a travel agency. There’s also a bimonthly magazine, called Office....................................2 D3 DRINKING

Ch

Murray Rd
Immigration Office.....................3 D1 Diplomat Bar.......................20 D2 14
proof that you are insured or can pay. MARS is linked to The Traveller, which carries features on lodges, restau- Land & Lake Safaris................(see 15) Goodfellows Pub.................21 D1
Ar
m
it a
Lee Photo Studio...................(see 24) Harry's Bar...........................22 C2 ge
Health International and can arrange evacuation to Harare rants and events in the Malawi tourist calendar. You can MGI Cyber Café....................(see 24)
Rd 21

or Jo’burg if things get really serious. normally find copies in tourist offices, hotels, cafés and on Money Bureau.......................(see 24) SHOPPING
National Bank of Malawi............4 D2 Craft Market....................... 23 D2
Coachline buses. Post Office.................................5 D2 Nico Shopping Centre..........24 D2
Money Immigration office (Map p171; %01-754297; Stanbic Bank..............................6 D2 Old Town Mall....................25 D1
TBS Bookshop........................(see 24)
Money Bureau (City Centre Map p169; %01-772239; Murray Rd) Ulendo Safaris........................(see 25) TRANSPORT
16

e
Av
Centre House Arcade, City Centre Shopping Centre; City 2 Victoria Forex........................(see 24) Minibuses to City Centre...(see 19)
La
ws 11 27
18 tt a
Shire Bus Lines Depot..........26 D2 Keny a
Centre Map p169; %01-750789; Crossroads Complex; Old Travel Agencies SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SS Rent-a-Car......................27 D2
20
13 6
19
Rd
Town Map p171; %01-750659; Nico Shopping Centre, Land & Lake Safaris (Map p171; Mandala Rd; %01- Lilongwe Golf Club................(see 10) 4
26
e
Kamuzu Procession Rd, Old Town) has good rates and quick 757120; www.landlake.net) Well-established and know- SLEEPING s A
v 1 24
Law 15 Mandala Rd Ka
service, and doesn’t charge commission. ledgeable company organising tours for all budgets in both Golden Peacock Hotel................7 C3
22 8
m
5 uzu
Kiboko Town Hotel....................8 D2 23 Pr
National Bank of Malawi (City Centre Map p169; Malawi and Zambia. o

Johnstone Rd
Korea Garden Lodge..................9 C3 17

ces
Old Town
African Unity Ave; Old Town Map p171; Kamuzu Procession Ulendo Safaris (Map p171; Old Town Mall; %01- Lilongwe Golf Club..................10 D3

sion
(Area 3)
Lilongwe Hotel.........................11 C2
Rd; h8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat) You can 754947; info@ulendo.malawi.net) Organises a variety of

Rd
Co
St Peter's Guesthouse..............12 C3

lb
Police

y
change money here and get a cash advance on your Visa tours and safaris in Malawi and Zambia as well as hotel

Rd
EATING
card. There’s a 24-hour ATM that accepts Visa, Mastercard, bookings and air charter flights. 3 Ali Baba's................................ 13 D2
Amina's Take Away.................14 D1
Cirrus and Maestro. Wilderness Safaris (Map p169; Bisnowaty Complex; Bohemian Cafe........................15 C2
7

d
Stanbic Bank (City Centre Map p169; African Unity Ave; Kenyatta Dr; %01-771393/153; www.wilderness-safaris

sR
Don Brioni's Bistro....................(see 8)

ne
Green Bamboo Garden............16 C2

Jo
Old Town Map p171; Kamuzu Procession Rd) Offers the .com) Excellent operator providing top-end safaris and ana R
d 12 2

yn
Kandodo Supermarket.............17 D3 Tsiran 9

Gl
10
same facilities as National Bank of Malawi. lodge bookings throughout Southern Africa. Korea Garden Restaurant.........(see 9)
 172 L I L O N G W E • • T o u r s Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com L I L O N G W E • • S l e e p i n g 173

dm US$4) Offers excellent, clean and safe rooms action. The rooms are spacious, comfort-
TOBACCO with nets, all of which open onto a peaceful able and stylish – all white gauze and linen
Tobacco is Malawi’s most important cash crop, accounting for more than 60% of the country’s courtyard garden. It’s quiet and part of the topped off with bright African prints. There’s
export earnings, and Lilongwe is the selling, buying and processing centre of this vital industry. parish so guests should be respectful. a good little café downstairs, complete with
Most activity takes place in the Kenango industrial area on the northern side of Lilongwe, the site Sunset Lodge (Map p169; %01-724770, 724718; sunset children’s play area constructed around an
of several tobacco-processing factories and the huge and impressive tobacco auction rooms. lodge@globemw.net; Glyn Jones Rd; s/d from US$11/22) Up- old 4WD. Best of all is the beautiful resi-
Tobacco was first grown in Malawi by a settler called John Buchanan, who planted the crop stairs in a large building near the bus station. dents bar with its low Moroccan-style seating,
on his farm near Blantyre in the 1880s. Large-scale tobacco farming started in the area around The bright blue exterior hides a pleasant, twinkling fairy lights, open-air fireplace and
Lilongwe in the 1920s and has grown steadily in importance ever since. Two types of tobacco airy lodge, with wide corridors, breezy rooms mellow atmosphere. The staff are helpful
are produced in Malawi: ‘flue’, which is a standard quality leaf, and ‘burley’, which is of a higher with fans, mosquito nets and hot water. Ask and charming, and there’s wireless internet
quality and in demand by cigarette manufacturers around the world. for a room overlooking the river at the back, available.
Tobacco is grown on large plantations or by individual farmers on small farms. The leaves are as these are much quieter. Bathrooms come Heuglin’s Lodge (%01-795364; Area 43; s/d from
harvested and dried, either naturally in the sun or in a heated drying room, and then brought equipped with plastic cups and buckets if US$40/60) A lovely guesthouse with tasteful
to Lilongwe for sale (in southern Malawi the crops go to auction in Limbe). you fancy bathing traditional style. Breakfast rooms, pleasant gardens and a pool. There’s
In the auction room (called auction ‘floors’), auctioneers sell tobacco on behalf of the growers. is US$2. also a great wildlife library here. It’s 3km
It’s purchased by dealers who resell to the tobacco processors. The tobacco comes onto the floors Korea Garden Lodge (Map p171; %01-753467, 757854; north of the City Centre.
(the size of several large aircraft hangars) in large bales weighing between 80kg and 100kg and Tsiranana Rd; s/d with shared bathroom US$18.40/23.30, s/d Lingadzi Inn (Map p169; %01-754166; lingadzi@sdnp
is displayed in long lines. Moisture content determines the value of the leaves: if the tobacco is $US29.40/44.65; www.kglodge.net; is) A large .org.mw; Chilambula Rd; d US$78) It’s a little faded
too dry, the flavour is impaired; if it’s too wet, mould will set in and the bale is worthless. complex with a variety of rooms for most and the bar and restaurant are a tad poky,
A small proportion of tobacco is made into cigarettes for the local market, but most gets budgets, a bar, pool and the Korea Garden but the rooms are comfortable and there’s a
processed in Malawi before being exported to be made into cigarettes abroad. Most processed restaurant set by the pool in a grassy backyard. picturesque, sprawling garden out the back.
tobacco goes by road to Durban, South Africa, to be shipped around the world. All rooms have nets and fans, but the cheap- Rates don’t include breakfast.
est ones are best avoided – you’ll feel like an
extra in a prison drama. It also offers business Top End
birds and animals that may be seen. There is Budget facilities including internet, which is free for Facilities at the following include travel and
MALAWI

MALAWI
also a small, and rather unpleasant ‘zoo’ area, All the budget places to stay are in Old the first 30 minutes. car hire agents, business centres, swimming
which consists of a few rather precarious- Town. pools, restaurants and bars.
looking cages filled with mangy-looking mon- Kiboko Camp (Map p169; %01-754978; www.kiboko Midrange Lilongwe Hotel (Map p171; %01-756333; Kamuzu
keys, hyenas and crocs. -safaris.com; Livingstone Rd; camping per person US$3, dm The following all have restaurants for resi- Procession Rd; d from US$95; is) Set amid sprawl-
If you’d prefer a political view, head to the US$5, d US$15; i) The most popular place in dents and rates include breakfast, unless ing, manicured gardens, this hotel is well
Parliament Building (Presidential Way), which moved town for those on a budget. There’s plenty otherwise specified. appointed (there’s a business centre, car hire
from Zomba in the mid-1990s to the palace of space for campers, as well as dorms and Annie’s Lodge Area 47 (Map p169; %01-762163; and an Air Malawi desk) but rather uninspir-
of former president Banda on the outskirts of double and twin A-frame chalets. Staff can Area 47/3; s/d US$25/28) This place is all jungle ing. If you do stay here, it’s best to part with
Lilongwe. At least this obscenely grandiose give you info and tips on travelling in Malawi. prints and wooden décor with a small bar the extra cash for one of the superior rooms,
monstrosity is being used now – during Ban- The reception doubles as a small bar (it closes and a pleasant veranda, although the staff’s which are huge with comfy velour sofas and
da’s rule he stayed here only one night. at 10.30pm) and breakfast, lunch and evening obsession with Western pop music may inter- doors opening onto the gardens.
If you’re the sporting type, Lilongwe Golf Club meals can be ordered, although order well in rupt any plans for relaxation. Breakfast is Capital Hotel (Map p169; %01-773388; capital@sun
(Map p171; see right) offers daily member- advance if you’re eating dinner. If arriving at included for one guest only, regardless of birdmalawi.com; Chilembwe Rd; s/d from US$106/142;
ship for US$10. This allows you to enter the the bus station at night grab a taxi here for occupancy. is) This hotel with its leafy compound
club and use the bar or restaurant. To use the around US$5. Nelly’s Guest House (%01-59514; Area 9/156; s/d and good facilities attracts top-end tourists,
sports facilities there’s a small extra charge. Lilongwe Golf Club (Map p171; %01-753598/118; US$32/42; i) This is cosy and popular, with business travellers and diplomats. Superior
camping per person US$5; s) A clean, safe and com- conservatively decorated rooms, a pretty gar- rooms are nice, but the standard ones are
TOURS fortable (hot showers!) option for campers, den, and an internet café. looking a bit rough around the edges and the
Kiboko Safaris (p236) do an excellent half-day just off Glyn Jones Rd. Discounts are common Annie’s Lodge Area 10 (%01-794572; annieslodge@ staff aren’t that friendly. Prices include break-
tour of Lilongwe, which incorporates both the for two or more people, and rates include globemw.net; Area 10/285; r US$38-45) Area 47’s classier fast. It also has Tidye Restaurant (p174).
tobacco auction floors, the Nature Sanctuary access to the members bar, restaurant and and more sedate cousin has a variety of tran- Cresta Crossroads Hotel (Map p169; %01-750333;
and the Parliament Building. swimming pool. quil rooms, some with private bathroom. Crossroads Complex, Mchinji Roundabout; www.cresta-hos
Golden Peacock Hotel (Map p171; %01-756632; There’s also an inviting TV lounge, and the pitality.com; s/d from US$120/140; is) Lilongwe’s
SLEEPING Johnstone Rd; s/d/tr with shared bathroom US$7/8.50/10.50) restaurant serves inventive meals (US$5 to newest top-end hotel has all the facilities you’d
Lilongwe has a number of decent accommo- Has large but shabby rooms, which vary con- US$11). Breakfast is included for one guest expect, and the rooms are just that little bit
dation options, although there’s not much in siderably in size and condition so check out only, regardless of occupancy. more swanky than those of its rivals. There’s
the top-end bracket. Most budget options are a few. There’s a nice terrace café dishing up oKiboko Town Hotel (Map p171; %01- a large central courtyard and the reception is
located in the Old Town, the most convenient good burgers and Indian food. 752201; imperial@eomw.net; Mandala Rd; s/d from US$40/45; pretty jazzy, with large windows and a sunken
area of the city to stay due to its eating, drink- St Peter’s Guesthouse (Map p171; %01-752812, 08- i) This is the best-value place in town. It’s lounge area. It also has a wonderfully cheesy
ing and transport facilities. 317769; Glyn Jones Rd; r with shared bathroom US$8.50, 3-bed located bang in the centre of the Old Town drinking hole called the Cat-chy Saloon.
 174 L I L O N G W E • • E a t i n g lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com L I L O N G W E • • D r i n k i n g & E n t e r t a i n m e n t 175

EATING Kiboko Town Hotel (Map p169; %01-752201; dishes has the best range. Kandodo Supermarket (Map find a cosy corner, or plant a stool at the
Lilongwe has a good selection of places to eat, US$3-6; hbreakfast & lunch) Has a courtyard restau- p171; Kamuzu Procession Rd) has more limited and impressive wooden bar.
from cafés serving cheap, local food (mostly rant serving tasty sandwiches, omelettes and a cheaper stock. Near the City Centre Shopping Zebra Disco (Map p169; Lingadzi Inn; admission US$2;
found around Old Town) to stuffy, European- nice selection of savoury Dutch pancakes. Centre is the large PTC Hypermarket (Map hFri & Sat) The place to go for a more local
style places, as well as very good Indian and Terrace Bistro (Map p171; %01-773388; Lilongwe p169), where you can get everything from feel. It plays mostly African music to a mostly
Chinese restaurants. Hotel; light dishes from US$4; hlunch) This place is imported South African biscuits to camping Malawian clientele.
open-air and a popular lunch spot and meet- supplies.
Restaurants ing place for business travellers and well- Spectator Sport
Korea Garden Restaurant (Map p171; %01-753467; heeled tourists. DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT Football matches are played at the CIVO sta-
starters US$1-3, mains US$5-10; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Tidye Restaurant (Map p169; %01-773388; Capital Bars & Nightclubs dium (Map p169; Area 9), off Kamuzu Procession
Within the Korea Garden Hotel, this place Hotel; starters US$5-8, mains US$10-15; hdinner) This is In Old Town the streets near the market have Rd, on Sunday, and at the Area 47 stadium.
serves a large selection of Korean meals in- suitably stylish with exquisite dishes to match – several bottle stores, which are basic bars that Look out for posters, or ask local fans for
cluding vegetarian options and bugolgi dishes. it’s all roast salmon and spiced guinea fowl play music loud and late. This area has a very information.
The food is plentiful if a little bland. here with not a chambo or chip to be seen. hard edge, so go here only with a streetwise
Modi’s (Map p171; %01-757694; Kamuzu Procession friend, enough money for an evening’s sup- SHOPPING
Rd; starters US$2, mains US$5-6; lunch & dinner Tue-Sun) Has Cafés & Quick Eats ply of beer and nothing that you can’t afford Nico Shopping Centre (Map p171; Kamuzu Procession Rd)
delicious and filling Indian food; the seafood Summer Park (Map p171; dishes US$1-3; hbreakfast & to lose. has a bookshop, travel agency, pharmacy and
and vegetarian options are particularly good. lunch) Behind Ali Baba’s; chose from a small Africana Hotel (Map p169; off Independence Dr) A several other shops.
Green Bamboo Garden (Map p171; %01-750075; selection of sundaes, milkshakes, burgers and lively place with a large outdoor patio that is Old Town Mall (Map p171; Off Chilambula Rd) houses
Laws Ave; starters US$2.50, mains US$10; hlunch & din- pizzas at the counter and then your choice is popular with nearby office workers and gov- a small corridor of shops including African
ner) This place, opposite the Lilongwe Hotel, brought out to you in the large garden. Enor- ernment types. It’s easy to make friends here Habitat, selling a variety of African arts and
serves great, fresh Chinese food (the stewed mous yellow-striped awnings provide shade, and you’re sure to strike up a conversation crafts, and Central Africana with an impres-
fish head in brown sauce is actually quite and there’s a constant stream of African pop with one of the locals over a few beers. sive selection of decorative and antique maps
tasty); and for those of you who wish to reveal hits. Chameleon Bar (Map p169; Four Seasons Centre, well worth framing.
your inner diva, there are three private rooms Ali Baba’s (Map p171; %01-751523; Kamuzu Procession Presidential Way) Swanky cocktail bar that has Crossroads Complex (Map p169; Kamuzu Procession
MALAWI

MALAWI
that have karaoke thrown in for free. Rd; light dishes US$2, mains US$3-7; hbreakfast, lunch & din- regular live events including the ‘pillow talk’ Rd) is Lilongwe’s newest shopping area and
Don Brioni’s Bistro (Map p171; %01-756998; Mandala ner) Fast-food joint serving good burgers and unplugged session on the last Thursday of houses banks, a swanky hotel, minigolf, a
Rd; mains US$4-10; hdinner) Usually buzzing with shawarmas, but with a smattering of chicken, every month, which welcomes poets, musi- variety of upscale shops, supermarkets and
a lively infusion of locals and tourists, this steak and fish dishes. cians and comedians. services, and a branch of the South African
place under the Kiboko Town Hotel is suitably Annie’s Coffee Shop (Map p169; Conforzi Rd; dishes Harry’s Bar (Map p171; Mandala Rd) Above Book- Steers.
Italian in décor and flavour, and the eccentric US$2-3; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Dishes up tasty mart, this circular bar has a relaxed atmos- City Centre Shopping Centre (Map p169),
English owner is sure to come over and chat. breakfasts, curries, burgers and sandwiches in phere with a happy, mixed crowd of expats off Independence Dr, is a collection of build-
Excellent steak, fish, chicken accompany a cosy bistro-style restaurant. and locals. It’s a popular meeting place, al- ings containing shops, travel agents, restau-
pizzas and pastas on the menu. Amina’s Take Away (Map p171; Murray Rd; dishes US$2- though Harry’s taste in music can be atro- rants, a bank and a post office.
Mamma Mia (Map p171; %01-758362; Old Town 5; hbreakfast & lunch Mon-Sat) Serves the usual ciously cheesy.
Mal; mains US$5-7; hlunch & dinner) A light and burgers, sandwiches and curries and is popu- Legends (Map p169; Onions Rd; admission US$2; h5pm- Markets
airy restaurant away from the maddening lar with local office workers. Has a quirky late) This is a bar most evenings and a night- To see what Malawians buy go to the city’s
crowds, serving plenty of pizzas and pasta roadside terrace complete with makeshift club at weekends, where young expats and main market (Map p169) by the bus station.
dishes as wells as tasty Lake Malawi chambo gazebo. well-to-do Malawians mix it up in a happy It’s always lively and colourful, and is a great
and steaks. Bohemian Cafe (Map p171; %01-757120; Mandala and energetic atmosphere. The music is a fair place to buy second-hand clothes, although
Buchanan’s Grill (Map p169; %01-772846/772859; Rd, Old Town; dishes US$3; hbreakfast & lunch Mon-Sat) blend of Western and African. photography is not appreciated. Note also
Four Seasons Centre, Presidential Way; mains US$6-14; Serves excellent sandwiches, snacks and cakes Lilongwe Hotel (Map p171; %01-756333; Kamuzu that pickpockets operate in the crowds and
hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat) One of Lilongwe’s new- in a plant-filled courtyard overlooking, but Procession Rd) Has a smart residents’ bar open that some visitors with large bags have been
est offerings, this place is set in the gardens sheltered from, the buzz of the street. to nonguests, while the nonresidents’ bar is violently robbed, so travel lightly here.
of beautiful Four Seasons Centre. It’s a lovely Café Delight (Map p169; Kamuzu Procession Rd; dishes livelier. A disco or live band performs on There’s also a craft market (Map p171) out-
spot; if you can, eat out on the terrace, which US$3-6; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Serves Lebanese some evenings, when a US$2 cover charge is side the Old Town post office, where vendors
overlooks a beautiful rockery and pond. As the and Indian fast food, shawarmas, samosas applied. sell everything from trinket woodcarvings,
name suggests, this place specialises in grilled and curries. The plastic tables overlooking Diplomat Bar (Map p171; Kamuzu Procession Rd; hMon- basketware and jewellery to traditional Ma-
meat and the menu is a carnivore’s dream. the Total petrol station don’t make this the Sat, noon-late) Tiny little bar with a few outdoor lawi chairs. If you go late in the day you’re
most romantic of settings, but the food is tables overlooking the street. It gets lively at the likely to get a better deal.
Hotel Restaurants mighty tasty. weekends when it throngs with a mixed crowd
Most of the midrange and top-end hotels of expats, backpackers and locals. GETTING THERE & AWAY
listed have restaurants open to nonresidents, Self-Catering Goodfellows Pub (Map p171; Armitage Rd; h11.30am- Air
where standards and prices are on a par with There are decent supermarkets all over the late Mon-Sat) Another lively spot and an expat For details of flights, see p231 and p233. If
the hotel. city. Shoprite (Map p171; Kenyatta Rd) in Old Town haven. You can socialise at the pool tables, you’re buying a ticket, it’s worth trying an
 176 L I L O N G W E • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d lonelyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
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agent first (see p170) as they offer a wider you to be picked up by airport shuttle when Dedza Mountain Forest Reserve, as described in facilities, including the only bank north of
range of options, charge the same rates as the you arrive. Day Outings from Lilongwe (see p227), are Mzuzu and a couple of internet cafés. It’s very
airlines and sometimes have special deals. Local buses and minibuses run between Old the main attractions. The road south of Dedza spread out, which can be tough work with
Airlines with offices in Lilongwe include the Town and the commercial part of the airport skirts the border of Mozambique, revealing luggage, but there are plenty of bicycle taxis
following: (about 200m from the passenger terminal) for on both sides vast plains broken by conical that will take you anywhere you want to go in
Air Malawi (%01-700811; Lilongwe International just US$1, or you can catch any minibus run- granite peaks and a quilt of farmland, trees, town for around US$0.50.
Airport) ning along the main road towards Kasungu rust-red earth and grass. The pretty, green town is strung out for
KLM & Kenya Airways (Map p169; %01-774227; and get off at the airport junction, from where For camping, the Golf Club (camping US$2.50, about 2km along the main street between a
City Centre) it’s 3km to the airport. From the airport, you s/d with shared bathroom US$4.50/9) is close to the roundabout on the north–south road and
South African Airways (Map p169; %01-772242; can hoof it to the main road, where minibuses wooded backdrop, but its camping terrain the lakeshore.
Capital Hotel, City Centre) run to Lilongwe, or hitch. is dry and the rooms are fairly uninspiring. Culture and Museum Center Karonga (CMCK; www
You’re better off at one of the cheapie rest- .palaeo.net/cmck; %01-362574/579) is Karonga’s
Bus Bus houses on the main street. Rainbow Resthouse biggest tourist attraction and home to the
Coachline buses run between Lilongwe and The most useful local minibus service for & Restaurant (%01-223403; s/d US$3/4) is clean, Malawisaurus – a 130-million-year-old fos-
Blantyre (US$20, four hours, two daily) Book visitors is between Old Town and City Centre. friendly and good value. sil that was unearthed some 45km south of
tickets at the Shire Bus Lines Depot (Map p171; %01- From Old Town, local minibuses (marked On the northern outskirts of town is Dedza Karonga. The museum also holds a display
756226; Kenyatta Rd), from where the buses depart. area 12) leave from either the bus rank near Pottery (%01-223069; www.dedzapottery.com; h6am- entitled ‘From Dinosaurs to Democracy’
The bright orange Sacramento Bus runs to the market, or outside Shoprite. They then 7pm), with garishly kitsch ceramic products that chronicles the history of the area, and a
Mzuzu daily (US$18, four hours) from the head north up Kenyatta Rd, via Youth and aimed squarely at the expat and tourist mar- cultural activity space that hopes to become
main bus station near the market. Convention Drs or via Independence Dr, to ket. The coffee shop (lunches US$2-3), however, host to a regular range of drama, dance and
Express and ordinary buses operate out of reach City Centre. From City Centre back makes for a pleasant stopover, dishing out musical productions.
the bus station near the market in Old Town. to Old Town, the bus stop for the return good cheesecake, as well as excellent filter For transport details, see p233.
Express buses run to Blantyre via Zalewa journey is at the northern end of Independ- coffee.
(US$6, five hours, one daily), Zomba (US$4, ence Dr. The fare between the two centres is If you’re a serious hiker, the Forest Rest- Sleeping & Eating
six hours, one daily), Mzuzu (US$12, seven to US$0.50. house, 8km north of town in the forest re- Mufwa Lakeshore Lodge & Camping (%01-362390;
MALAWI

MALAWI
eight hours, two daily) and Kasungu (US$3, serve, makes a good base, although at the time camping US$2, s/d with shared bathroom US$10/14, s/d
four hours, two daily). For information on Taxi of writing, Dedza Pottery was about to open a USS$14/19) This is a large, quiet property that
any route, go to the back of one of the booths The best places to find taxis are the main few chalets with private bathroom overlook- can be difficult to find – there is no identify-
(you may have to look for one that’s open) hotels. There’s also a rank on Presidential Way, ing the mountains. ing sign and it’s set back from the road; the
and speak to the supervisors inside. You can just north of City Centre Shopping Centre. turn-off is located between Club Marina and
buy tickets once the buses have pulled into
the station.
All other buses are ordinary (ie slow)
Taxis also congregate outside Shoprite in Old
Town. The fare between Old Town and City
Centre is about US$4. Short journeys within
NORTHERN MALAWI the National Bank of Malawi. There’s a large
grassy camping ground with plenty of trees
but the rooms are quite small and dark. Still,
and travel between Lilongwe and Mchinji either City Centre or Old Town cost around This section covers most parts of the North- it’s a good deal cheaper than Club Marina
(US$1.50, two to three hours, three daily), US$3. It’s always best to negotiate a price with ern Province, from the northern tip of the down the road and it’s wonderfully located,
Salima (US$1.50, two hours, two daily) and the driver first. country down to the Mzuzu and Nkhata bang on a long stretch of beach. Rates include
Nkhotakota (US$2.50, 4½ hours, two daily). Bay areas. Places are described roughly from breakfast.
Getting to Monkey Bay can be a nightmare AROUND LILONGWE north to south. Zgambota Resthouse (s/d US$2.50/3) Opposite
(see p201). Dzalanyama In contrast to the more densely populated the Mobil petrol station at the roundabout;
Long distance minibuses depart from be- Dzalanyama is a beautiful forest reserve in a region of central and southern Malawi, the has clean and basic rooms with nets.
hind the bus station to nearby destinations range of hills about 50km by road southwest north has an air of the remote about it, and Safari Lodge (%01-362340; s/d US$6/8) On the
such as Salima, Mchinji and Dedza (all around of Lilongwe. The log cabin–style Forest Rest- holds some of Malawi’s most fascinating at- road to the lake, this is a friendly place, but
US$1.50). house (Map p195; s/d with shared bathroom US$18/24) is tractions – the beautiful wilderness of the the rooms, although large, are rather spartan
run by Land & Lake Safaris (p170) and offers Nyika Plateau, the colonial hilltop town of and shabby.
GETTING AROUND walking trails, mountain biking (at US$5 per Livingstonia and the laid-back, lakeside back- Club Marina (%01-362302; standard chalet s/d
To/From the Airport day), bird-watching or simply relaxing. It also packers favourite, Nkhata Bay. US$20/30, superior chalet s/d US$40/55) Near Mufwa is
Lilongwe international airport is 21km north arranges transfers to the forest for US$22, as this excellent, upmarket place. Classy chalets
of the city. A taxi from the airport into town there’s no public transport here. KARONGA (superior ones have hot water) are set in a
costs US$15. In the surrounding dry and dusty country, beautiful, leafy area and the large outdoor
The Airport Shuttle collects passengers Dedza Karonga is a relaxed little town with wide bar is perfect for a cold drink. Rates include
from most of the hotels and lodges in town Dedza is a small town 85km southeast of streets, wandering cattle and shop fronts breakfast.
around three hours before a flight departure. Lilongwe, just off the main road between straight out of a western; you can almost see Half Cast Fast Food (mains US$0.80-1.50) is a hole
The cost is US$9 and your hotel should be Lilongwe and Blantyre. It’s surrounded by the tumbleweed rolling down the street. It’s in the wall near the roundabout selling saus-
able to make a booking. If you’ve booked a forested hills, and the opportunity for good the first and last town on the road between ages, burgers, samosas and other cheap and
hotel in advance, the hotel can arrange for walks and spectacular views in the nearby Malawi and Tanzania and has some good tasty snacks.
 178 N O R T H E R N MA L A W I lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N MA L A W I • • C h i t i m b a 179

NORTHERN MALAWI 0
0
50 km
30 miles
CHITIMBA LIVINGSTONIA
Chitimba is little more than a stretch of beach The story of the founding of Livingstonia is
To Mbeya
So (70km) on Lake Malawi, a couple of places to stay covered on p159. The town provides a fasci-
ng TANZANIA Makulawe Point
we and some shops straggled along the highway nating glimpse into Malawi’s colonial past;
Matema
Makulawe
Yofu Mbako
where you turn off the main north–south and the mixture of old colonial architecture,
Ibanda Ikombe Phonombo
Peak
Bay Bay road to reach Livingstonia. It’s a nice place wide, dusty tree-lined streets and panoramic
River
Itungi
(560m)
Chinyanya to chill out, especially if you’ve just travelled views of the hills and the lake is quite beguil-
Songwe Lumbila
To Nakonde Chitipa Kyela down from Tanzania, but otherwise there’s ing. Relative isolation, maintained by arduous

ὈὈ
& Tunduma Ulisa
(Zambia-Tanzania Nyala
Border; 10km);
Dhow to
Chizumulu Cathedral of little to see or do. access, has kept it quiet and unspoilt, making
Island
Lusaka (1010km) M
9
Kambwe
Kaporo Khuyu
St Peter
Chipyela Mbamba it an ideal place to recover from hard travel
Islands
Mission
Njakwa Hospital Fishing Beach Sleeping in Tanzania or the rigours of beach life on
Hill
M Alemekezeke Hot Coconut Bar There are four places to stay close to the junc- the lake.
Mbuzi
ZAMBIA Chisenga
26 r Karonga
Resthouse
Mango Drift Islands tion with the main road. They can store your
Rukuru Rive

Mulale Bay Mbuzi gear and arrange a guide if you want to walk Sights & Activities

ὈὈ
Mbungo Likoma Point
Island (560m) up to Livingstonia. The fascinating museum (admission US$2;
M
1 Kaya
Mawa Nkhwazi Chiponde
Ilala Ferry
Route to
Mdokera’s Beach Campsite (camping US$2, beds in h7.30am-5pm) in the Stone House details early
Lupingo Cóbuè tree or tent US$4) About 5km north of Chitimba, European exploration and missionary work
h

Route 0 2km
this place is close to the road and the beach,
rt

Ilala Ferry
No

Ngara and
mulu Isl
to Chizi 0 1mile run by a friendly Malawian couple and comes 0 1 km
Mt Mpanda
(2017m) LIVINGSTONIA 0 0.5 miles
Nthalire complete with a bed in the tree and a tree
A B

ὈὈ
ὈὈ
M Nyika Plateau shower! Meals in the simple and clean restau-
9 TANZANIA
Chilumba rant range from US$1 to US$4, and there’s a INFORMATION
Nganda Peak
Youngs
Manda visitors book of hints and comments, which David Gordon Memorial Hospital...1 B3
Chelinda (2607m)
Muyombe
Camp Bay Lituhi your host will proudly show you. 1 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Livingstonia
Chitimba Namiashi Resort (camping US$2, s/d US$10/15, chalet Church...........................................2 B4
MALAWI

MALAWI
Mt Ntakati Clock Tower...................................3 B4
(2503m) Hananiya US$20) About 5km south of Chitimba, this re- House No 1....................................4 B4
Nyika
Mt Vitumbi sort may have seen better days, but it’s quiet Missionary Houses.........................5 B4

ὈὈ
National Park r
(2527m) ve Museum......................................(see 8)
Thazima Nchenachena Ri Chiweta
and has a couple of enormous trees that offer
Park Gate Stone Cairn....................................6 B4
ru

Katumbi
good shade for lazing on the beach. Rooms Technical College...........................7 B4
ku

Muhuju
Ru

Mwazisi
So
uth are a decent size (although only one has nets) SLEEPING
Ng'onga
Vwaza Marsh
Wildlife Reserve
M
M
24 Bolero
Mango
and the chalet is particularly good for families. Stone House...................................8 B4
9
Kazuni Bwengu
Room rates include breakfast. SHOPPING
Rumphi 2 Khondowe Craft Shop....................9 B4
Lake
Camp Chitimba Campsite (camping per person US$3, dm
Thazimi Liuli
ZAMBIA Kazuni Park Gate Ruarwe US$5, stilt chalets with shared bathroom US$10, d US$15) Falls
Kazuni M Viewpoint
Village 1 Usisya Right on the beach, about 1km north of the
Bay
Livingstonia turn-off, and very popular with
er

Usisya Manchewe Falls

Riv

Emcisweni
er
overland trucks, which makes the place rather Riv
River

Enuckweni Dankhayo
Bay Mbamba
u

rowdy. The shabby rooms and chalets aren’t

kur

Bay
Chikwina Lake e
Ru

Ekwendeni To Lukwe Permaculture

ew
u

good value, but good food is available all day h Camp (5km); Mushroom
sit

Malawi nc
Euthini Ma Farm (8km); Chitimba
Ka

Kan
uth

ὈὈ
Mzuzu d
M o un o li and there are two bars so plenty of space for & Main Lake Shore Rd
So

Kafukule
rry

ta (via Escarpment Rd, 15km)

Fe

in
M
9 M s
ng
ey
a party animals.
1 So 3
Sangilo Sanctuary Lodge (%09-395203, 08-392611;
Nkhata Bay
Mt Mpamphala Mukwiya sanctuary@sangilo.net; chalets US$25) About 8km north Primary
School
(1954m)
of Chitimba, this is the newest offering on the
ver
Ri strip. It has a stunning setting, with wonder-
a

To Rumphi Market
ey

1
fully decked-out cliff-top cottages, camping,

ὈὈ Ὀ
(70km)
w
Lu

Chintheche 6
Chikangawa
Bandawe
an empty stretch of beach, and an excellent 4

Livingstonia Esc
Mzimba
M
open-air deck restaurant. If you call in ad-
Vi p h y a Chizumulu Island
P l a t e a u
5 (Malawi) vance you can arrange a pick up from the 9
5
Edingeni
See Enlargement Livingstonia turn-off or the Ilala.
Luwawa 4 7

arpment
Luwawa Dam Football 3
Forest
Likoma Island
Getting There & Away Field
8
(Malawi) Cóbuè A minibus or matola (pick-up) between Teachers'
Houses
Lundazi MOZAMBIQUE Chitimba and Mzuzu or Karonga is around Secondary
School
2
Jenda Katete To Kasungu (130km); To Nkhotakota (81km); To
Lilongwe (262km) Salima (202km) Metangula MK600.
 180 N O R T H E R N MA L A W I • • L i v i n g s t o n i a Book accommodation online
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lyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N MA L A W I • • R u m p h i 181

in Malawi. In many regards, the exhibits are with stunning views over the lake, hot solar offer to carry your pack for about US$2. Take air is cool and crisp, and the views (on clear
a tribute to the efforts and achievements of showers and composting toilets. It offers a care on this road; isolated incidents of mug- days) are endless. What is most appealing
Dr Robert Laws, who established the Liv- range of adventure activities in the area in- gings have occurred so it’s best to check the about Nyika is the sense of peace; you won’t
ingstonia mission. On display is an excellent cluding waterfall abseils and rap jumping. The latest situation before you set off, or take a see many other tourists here and can quite
collection of original magic-lantern slides, food, produced in most part from the organic local guide. easily spend the day hiking in the hills with-
letters and photos, and an early anaesthesia vegie gardens and animals, is raved about. The The other way to reach Livingstonia, espe- out happening upon another soul. There’s
machine. More bizarrely, there’s a stuffed owner provides regular transport to and from cially if you’re coming from the south, is to go a wild, mystical air to the place that is at its
bird and a broken chicken leg, displayed in Chitimba Beach Camp. to Rumphi (see following), and catch a mini- most seductive in the mornings, when the
a drawer along with one of Dr Laws’ cloaks. Lukwe Permaculture Camp (%08-204648, 01- bus or matola up the scenic ‘old road’ (west of air is cold and crisp and the hills enveloped
Outside the Stone House, embedded in the 332261; www.lukwe.com; camping per person US$2.50, the main north–south road) to Livingstonia in blue mist.
grass, are huge stone letters, designed to 2-bed cabins per person US$7.50) On the northern (US$3.80). Sometimes these go only as far Wildflowers contribute to the park’s visual
be read by anyone who happens to be fly- side of the escarpment road, above the steep as Nchenachena (17km from Livingstonia) feast; the best time for viewing them is during
ing overhead in a small plane. They read zigzags, an hour’s walk east (downhill) from or Hananiya (7km from Livingstonia), from and just after the wet season (December to
Ephesians 2-14. Visit the museum for an Livingstonia, or about 10km from Chitimba if where you’ll have to walk the remaining dis- April), when the grassland is covered in colour
explanation. you’re coming up. It’s a beautiful, shady, rest- tance. If you’re driving this route, a 2WD is and small outcrops turn into veritable rock
Nearby is the church, dating from 1894, with ful place, with stunning views, great chill-out adequate in dry conditions. gardens. Around 200 species of orchid alone
a beautiful stained-glass window featuring area with fire pit, comfy chairs and a friendly A third option is to walk to Livingstonia grow on the plateau.
David Livingstone with his sextant, his medi- atmosphere. Hot showers with a view and from the Nyika Plateau. See the boxed text, Rather than simply wildlife viewing, what
cine chest and his two companions, with Lake clean compost toilets complete this sustain- p182 for details. also makes Nyika alluring is the chance to
Malawi in the background. Sunday services able paradise. All food comes from the garden, explore a unique and preserved patch of the
are conducted, and visitors are welcome to with meals costing around US$2 to US$5. RUMPHI African wilderness in a variety of ways: trot-
attend the English one at 8am. Hikes, with or without local guides, can be Rumphi (rum-pee) is a small town west of ting over the plains on horseback, taking a
Other places of interest include the clock arranged to surrounding hills and peaks, or the main road between Mzuzu and Karonga, more energetic route on a mountain bike,
tower. The nearby industrial block was built down to Chitimba. which you’ll probably visit if you’re heading rambling through the hills on foot, or simply
by the early missionaries as a training centre Stone House (%01-368223; camping per person for Nyika National Park, Vwaza Marsh or sitting down by a stream for a spot of fishing.
MALAWI

MALAWI
and is now a technical college. The excellent US$3, dm incl breakfast US$8) This was built by mis- Livingstonia. Common animals here include zebras, bush-
Khondowe Craft Shop sells inexpensive carvings sionaries in the early 20th century and still The Chitukoko Resthouse & Restaurant (%01- bucks, reedbucks and roan antelopes (rare
and crafts made by local people; all proceeds has original Victorian furniture, along with a 372394; d US$5.50) on the main road has small elsewhere), and you may also spot elands,
go to directly to the hospital and mission. friendly caretaker, clean bathrooms and oc- clean rooms with hot water. Also on the main warthogs, klipspringers, jackals, duikers and
Down the road from here is the David Gordon casional hot water. The wooden-floor dorms road and a better option is the lurid green possibly hyenas and leopards. In the grass-
Memorial Hospital, once the biggest hospital in have the feel of a Victorian boarding school Country Lodge (%01- 372395; s/d US$5/7), where land, spotting is easy – in fact the Nyika zebras
Central Africa, and the stone cairn marking and the views from the veranda are superb. clean and spacious rooms come with electric- seem to delight in posing for photos on the
the place where missionary Dr Robert Laws Meals are around US$6, but the food leaves ity, nets and fans. It is also the home of Chef’s skyline. More than 400 species of bird have
and his African companion Uriah Chirwa much to be desired. You can provide your Pride Restaurant (snacks US$1, mains US$2-3.50), which been recorded here.
camped in 1894 when they decided to build own food for the cook to prepare, or simply serves a variety of meals all day, including Entry fees are payable (see p166). All accom-
the mission here. Also nearby is House No 1, the use the kitchen yourself. toasted sandwiches, chicken and beef stews, modation, tourist activities and charter flights
original home of Dr Laws before he moved vegie dishes and curries. are operated by the Nyika Safari Company (%01-
into the Stone House. Getting There & Away Matola to Nyika (US$6) and Vwaza (US$3) 330180; www.nyika.com), a small professional outfit
Manchewe Falls, about 4km from the town, is From the main north–south road between leave from opposite the Rumphi Superette. based at Chelinda Camp, at the heart of the
a spectacular 50m-high waterfall with a cave Karonga and Mzuzu, the road to Livingstonia You can ask here about matola to Living- plateau.
behind it where local people hid from slave- turns off at Chitimba, forcing its way up the stonia (US$4). Minibuses also run to Mzuzu It can get surprisingly cold on the Nyika
traders a hundred years ago. Allow an hour escarpment in a series of acute hairpin bends. (US$1.50). Plateau, especially at night from June to Au-
going down and 1½ hours back up. Alterna- Drivers should attempt this only in a 4WD, gust, when frost is not uncommon. Log fires
tively, if you’re walking to/from Chitimba, and only if there’s been no rain. The road var- NYIKA NATIONAL PARK are provided in the chalets and rooms, but
you can visit on the way. ies between dirt road, very rutted and difficult Established in 1965, Nyika National Park is bring a warm sleeping bag if you’re camp-
The more adventurous can also arrange ab- track, and smooth, recently paved concrete. the oldest and the largest in the country, cov- ing. During dry periods, sectors of the park
seiling trips for half a day or longer. For more There are plans to pave the entire road, but ering some 3000 sq km; much of the park is are burnt to prevent larger fires later in the
details contact either Lukwe Permaculture so far this hasn’t been completed. There’s no above 1800m. The main feature of the park season. Before setting off for drives or walks,
Camp or Mushroom Farm (below). bus, and you’ll wait a very long time if you’re is the Nyika Plateau, with a landscape and inquire at the park headquarters and avoid
hitching. climate unique in Malawi, and unusual in areas that are being burnt.
Sleeping & Eating The alternative is to walk up – it’s about Africa – almost like the Scottish highlands
Mushroom Farm (mickmitchell2001@yahoo.com; camp- 15km, and steep, so it takes four hours from with more exotic inhabitants. The plateau is a Activities
ing per person US$2, s/d $US5/10) Has gained quite Chitimba if you follow the road. There are vast range of high rolling hills, sweeping wide WILDLIFE WATCHING
a reputation on the backpackers’ circuit. It’s short cuts that can cut it to three or four hours, valleys and flower-studded grasslands; and To appreciate the animals and flowers of
a sustainable bush retreat in a forest setting, but these are even steeper. Local children will there’s a pocket of dense pine forest, where the Nyika, you can tour the park tracks in your
 182 N O R T H E R N MA L A W I • • N y i k a N a t i o n a l Pa r k

own car (but you’ll need a 4WD to access

most areas), or arrange a guided wildlife-
MOUNTAIN BIKING
lonelyplanet.com

Nyika’s network of dirt roads is ideal for

Book

ὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈ
l o n eaccommodation
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NYIKA NATIONAL PARK

N O R T H E R N MA L A W I • • N y i k a N a t i o n a l Pa r k 183

0
0
20 km
12 miles

ὈὈὈὈ
To Chitipa To Karonga Trekking Routes follow
viewing drive at Chelinda Camp. Morn- mountain biking. You can base yourself at (100km) Kawozia Peak
(2210m)
(30km) some roads & paths

ing or night drives last around two hours Chelinda and go for day rides in various dir-

North Ruk
(US$25 per person), but you can also go all ections or camp out overnight (for which Chipome

Mo
Valley

nd
day (US$50). Wildlife viewing is good all you’ll need to hire a guide). This is a fun way Nthalire

w
Jalawe

e
ru
Peak
year, although in July and August the cold to cover more ground than you would on

Riv
(2301m)

Str
Domwe

er
weather means the animals move to lower foot. Mountain-bike hire is available by the

eam
Peak Nyika

ὈὈὈὈ
(2340m)Radio National Park Chilumba
areas. Bird-watching is particularly good hour or day (US$5/25) or you can bring your Jalawe
Mast Nganda
Junction
Roadhead
between October and April when migratory own bike in. Little
Domwe North
Nganda Peak
(2607m) Kasanga
Peak
birds are on the move. Kapanji
Rukuru
Bridge
HORSE RIDING Kajosi Zungwara
Z AMBIA Bridge Dembo Nyamkhowa
DAY HIKING Nyika’s wide, open landscape lends itself Junction Ka

No
Kaperekezi Gate ziwiz
Although you can’t enter the park on foot, perfectly to horse riding, and this is by far Zovo- Airstrip Mpopoti iwi

rth
Chisanga Falls Chipolo Lake Peak

ὈὈὈὈ
Trail Kaulime
hiking is allowed once you’ve checked into the most enjoyable and exhilarating way to

Ru

Rive
bo Riv er
Maningiri m Kalabwe

mp
Chelinda D e

r
camp. There are several spots where you can experience the plateau. The tussock grass and Forest Peak

hi
Lodge & Nthakati Chitimba
iv

R
Zambian Resthouse Camp
Chosi Peak ream er
leave your car and walk for an hour or all day; boggy valley bottoms that can tire hikers are (closed) Peak (2503m) St
Chakaka Livingstonia
Start of
staff can advise you on routes. One of the crossed easily by horse, and the extra height Nyika
Chelinda Kaziwiziwi

Phata
Highlights Livingstonia Lake
most popular options is to park at the Jalawe means the views are excellent. You can also Chakomanamkazi
Rock (2343m)
Route Bridge
Route Hananiya Malawi
roadhead, north of Chelinda Camp, then fol- get much closer to animals such as zebras, Vitintiza
Chelinda
Peak

ὈὈὈὈ
low the path for 5km to Jalawe Peak. Beyond elands and roans when on horseback. Best of Mwanda Peak
Hill Chiweta

er
the summit is a rocky outcrop overlooking the all, you don’t need to be a dexterous eques- Lura

a Riv
(2148m)

Chipome Valley, a thousand metres below. trian to enjoy yourself; Chelinda Camp has Kasaramba

lind
Juniper Peak Nchenachena
Forest
You can sometimes spot elephants here. good-quality horses suitable for all levels,

Che
Vitumbi
Peak
You can hire a guide for walks lasting 2½ which you can hire by the hour (US$15) or Fingira Rock (2527m)
MALAWI

MALAWI
& Cave
hours (US$15 per person) or all day (US$30). day (US$60).
To Katumbi
Various paths and tracks wind through the For a really thorough look at Nyika’s vast (10km)
Thazima Gate
Park HQ Ulera Patrol
Hut Muhuju
plantation woodland, or across the grassland beauty, there are horse safaris available be-

Runyina
Nyika Junction
to nearby dams. For longer walks of more tween May and October. These last anywhere Buma
Mwasizi
than a day, see the boxed text, below. from two to 10 days and include all meals, Hills Nkonjera
Peak
Ng'onga
M

Rive
(2293m) 1

r
Bolero
HIKING & TREKKING ON THE NYIKA PLATEAU
There are a good variety of long-distance routes available on Nyika, and the Nyika Safari Company,
based at Chelinda Camp, is a useful first port of call. They can provide you with the obligatory Rumphi

guides and porters, who have their own sleeping bags, tents, cooking pots and food. You must To Vwaza Marsh Bwengu To Mzuzu
Wildlife Reserve (25km) (60km)
provide all the equipment and food you need.
When walking in the park you can either follow the set park tracks, paths and wildlife trails or
strike out on your own and walk across the trackless grassland. Some routes are more popular rides and accommodation in luxury safari Sleeping
than others, however, and those to the peaks and viewpoints on the western and northern tents (hot showers and all!). Rates are from Camping Ground (camp sites per person US$5) About
escarpments are especially popular. There are no set camp sites either. The wilderness trails are US$320 per person per night. Alternatively 2km from the main Chelinda Camp, this
not designed to help you get the best animal close-ups with your camera, but rather to show you can use Chelinda Lodge as a base and camp is set in a secluded site with vistas of
you that animals are part of a wider environment and to help you best enjoy the feeling of explore the park daily from there. the plateau’s rolling hills. The site has per-
freedom and space that Nyika provides. If you discuss your interests with Chelinda Camp, they manent security, clean toilets, hot showers,
can advise a suitable route. FISHING endless firewood and shelters for cooking
The only set route on Nyika – and by far the most popular – goes from Chelinda to Livingstonia. Some anglers reckon Nyika offers some of and eating.
It’s a hugely rewarding and spectacular walk, crossing east through high grassland, then dropping the best rainbow trout fishing in Malawi. The Chelinda Camp (4-bed cottages US$120, full board per
steeply through the wooded escarpment and passing through villages and farmland to reach best time of year to fish is October and No- person $150) Tucked inside a pocket of forest,
the old mission station at Livingstonia. This route takes three days. The third night is spent in vember. Fishing is allowed in the dams near Chelinda Camp has atmospheric rooms and
Livingstonia, and you can walk down to Chitimba at the lakeshore on the fourth day. For further Chelinda Camp and in nearby streams (Dam chalets dressed with pine and juniper furni-
information, there’s a chapter on Malawi in Lonely Planet’s Trekking in East Africa. One has the lion’s share). You’ll need a daily ture and stone fireplaces. The chalets also
Organised hikes can usually be run with only a day or two’s notice, but advance warning is licence (US$4), and rods can be hired by the contain lounge rooms and fully equipped
preferred. Two-day hikes cost $40 per person. The Livingstonia trail (three days, two nights) costs day (US$5). Only fly fishing is permitted and kitchens; you provide your own food, and
$80 per person. Fees cover the guide and all their costs. Porters are also available. there’s a limit of six fish per rod per day to each chalet has a cook who will prepare
maintain numbers. meals for you. Chalet guests can also order
 184 N O R T H E R N MA L A W I • • V w a z a M a r s h W i l d l i fe R e s e r v e lonelyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N MA L A W I • • M z u z u 185

meals in the restaurant (continental breakfast CAR often have to share their personal space with bring food, and there are cooking stations
US$5, buffet breakfast or lunch US$10, din- The main Thazima gate (pronounced and bulls munching on nuts around the restau- with barbecues. It’s best to stock up in Rumphi
ner US$15), where full-boarders are catered sometimes spelt Tazima) is in the southwest rant. Vwaza’s bird-watching is also excellent – or Mzuzu.
for. There’s a cosy bar, where a beer by the of the park, 54km from Rumphi; to Chelinda this is one of the best places in Malawi to see Kazuni Safari Camp (full board per person US$190)
roaring fire after a day’s activities is one of Camp it’s another 55km. The road is dirt waders. The best time of year to visit is in the Accommodates guests in smart and stylish
Malawi’s great pleasures. There’s also a shop after Rumphi and in fair condition as far as dry season; just after the rainy season, the chalets with thatched roofs and verandas in
at reception. Thazima gate. In the park the tracks are rough grass is high and you might go away without a prime position overlooking the lake. Rates
Chelinda Lodge (full-board cabins per person US$310) and really only suitable for 4WD vehicles or seeing anything. also include game drives and walks, but if you
About 1km from Chelinda Camp, nestled 2WD vehicles with high clearance, although There’s a range of vegetation and habitats don’t want the whole package, cheaper rates
against the side of the hill in a clearing of at the time of writing the road to Chelinda in the reserve, from large areas of open swamp may be available.
trees, this place looks like something out of Camp was about to be upgraded to a full- to more dense woodlands. The Luwewe River
a Bavarian fairytale. Rooms are in luxurious gravel standard, making it accessible to all runs through the reserve (draining the marsh- Getting There & Away
log cabins housing tasteful furniture, Victor- cars. Kaperekezi gate, in the west of the park, land) and joins the South Rukuru River (the The Nyika Safari Company operates flights
ian baths, roaring fireplaces and individual is rarely used by travellers. Fuel is available at reserve’s southern border), which flows into for a minimum of two people between Vwaza
balconies (deck chairs provided). Each affords Chelinda but in limited supply, so it’s best to Lake Kazuni. Marsh and Mzuzu (US$150 per person) or
stunning views over the plateau; and rates also fill up before you enter the park. A good network of driveable tracks in the Chelinda Camp in the Nyika National Park
include full bar, wildlife drives and walks. reserve is easily explored in a 4WD or high- (US$112 per person).
All self-caterers should stock up in either TAXI clearance vehicle; if you’re in a 2WD, ask at If you’re travelling by public transport, first
Mzuzu or Rumphi. There’s a small shop at You can hire a taxi (or a matola) in Mzuzu or Kazuni Camp for advice on the condition of get to Rumphi (reached from Mzuzu by mini-
Chelinda for National Parks staff but provi- Rumphi to take you all the way to Chelinda the tracks. The best driving route is along the bus for US$1.50). From there fairly frequent
sions are often basic and supplies sporadic. Camp. This costs around US$100 (less from southern edge of the reserve, parallel to the matolas and minibuses run to the main gate
Rumphi), which is not too bad if you get a river, heading to Zoro Pools. A better way (US$3).
Getting There & Away few people together. Of course, if the taxi has to witness wildlife is on foot – either around By car, head west from Rumphi. Turn left
Despite most maps showing otherwise, there to wait around for a few days to take you out Lake Kazuni or on a longer wilderness trail, after 10km (Vwaza Marsh Wildlife Reserve
is no road of any sort between Chelinda and again this will be more expensive, but we’ve but you must be accompanied by a guide is signposted), and continue for about 20km.
MALAWI

MALAWI
Livingstonia or any other town on the eastern heard from several travellers who used this (US$5 per person). Where the road swings left over a bridge, go
side of the plateau. method to reach Chelinda and then hitched It’s also possible to arrange a cultural tour straight on to reach the park gate and camp
out a few days later, or walked off via the at Kazuni Safari Camp. The local Natural after 1km.
AIR Livingstonia route. If you take the taxi option, Resources Committee (p166) has established
The quickest way to reach Chelinda Camp it’s essential to leave early in the morning so cultural centres in three of the surrounding MZUZU
is on a flight by Nyika Air Services. Flights your driver has time to get back. villages, where visitors can witness traditional Mzuzu is the largest town north of Lilongwe
for up to five people can be chartered from dancing, singing (participation is encour- and the transport hub for all north-related
Lilongwe (US$999), while rates from Mzuzu VWAZA MARSH WILDLIFE RESERVE aged!) and day-to-day activities including activities. Most travellers will stay in Mzuzu
are US$150 per person. It also flies to other For one reason or another this reserve seems blacksmithing, agricultural activities and for at least one night as a stopover on the
Malawian destinations as well as Tanzania and to be one of Malawi’s best-kept secrets, but cooking. It’s a rewarding experience and north–south route, or as a jumping-off point
Zambia (see p231 for details) and it has regu- it’s possibly your best chance to get up close an excellent opportunity to meet Malawian for Vwaza, Viphya, Nyika or Nkhata Bay. The
lar promotional offers. Contact the company and personal with elephants and well worth people in a genuine setting. Tours (US$8 per town is centred around a grand tree-lined
for more information. a visit. Vwaza is an ideal destination for any person) can be done by car or bicycle and all avenue. It has banks, shops, a post office,
budget; it’s compact and accessible, the accom- proceeds go to education, health and welfare supermarkets, pharmacies, petrol stations
BICYCLE modation is close to the main gate, and pub- programmes within the villages. An additional and other facilities, which are especially useful
It’s possible to bring a mountain bike into lic transport here is straightforward. Entry donation after the tour is appreciated and if you’ve come into Malawi from the north.
Nyika and you can cycle from Thazima gate to fees are payable (p166). All tourist activities, can be as small or large as you like. You can
Chelinda, but an early start is recommended places to stay and charter flights are operated also arrange to stay overnight, sleep in a trad- Information
due to the distance. by the Nyika Safari Company (see p181 for itional village hut and sample some traditional The National Bank of Malawi, Stanbic Bank
details). Malawian dishes. and First Merchant Bank, all on Orton Chewa
BUS The main camp is conveniently located a Ave, exchange travellers cheques and money,
There are no public buses into the park; the safe but rewarding distance from the hippo- Sleeping and offer credit-card withdrawals. National
nearest you can get is the service from Mzuzu heavy Lake Kazuni, which also lures impalas, Kazuni Camp (camping per person US$5, chalet s/d with and Stanbic banks have ATMs that accept
to Rumphi (US$1). From there, you can get a buffaloes (rumoured to be particularly aggres- shared bathroom US$10/20) Has simple, rustic chalets foreign cards. If you’re heading to the lake,
matola or minibus to Chelinda Camp (US$6). sive here), waterbucks, elands, roans, sables, with beds, clean sheets and mosquito nets. cash up here as there is no foreign exchange
To get from Chelinda Camp to either Nthalire zebras, hartebeests and pukus. The main They are separated by a decent stretch of bush, facility in Nkhata Bay.
in the north or Rumphi, contact the radio attraction, however, is the 160-plus elephants so you still get a sense of privacy and wilder- Internet access is available at the Mzuzu
operator at Chelinda Camp, who will advise within the park. There are regular parades ness while being within a camp; and they’re Business Centre (St Denis St; per hr US$10), or at the
matola or minibuses heading through the in front of the camps, and between July and close to the water so that elephants and hippos Dot.com Internet (Orton Chewa Ave; per hr US$9) next
park to divert to Chelinda for you. September, diners at Kazuni Safari Camp are frequent night-time visitors. You must to the Peoples Supermarket.
 186 N O R T H E R N MA L A W I • • M z u z u Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N MA L A W I • • M z u z u 187

ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
MZUZU 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles with clean, cool and homely rooms, and a has a rather staid atmosphere and the rooms
lovely veranda restaurant overlooking the look old fashioned. There’s a good restaurant

ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
To Airstrip (500m); To Hospital
A B C D
Kaka Motel (5km);
Rumphi (65km);
(500m)
flower-filled courtyard. Rates here include (starters US$3, mains US$5 to US$10) and
breakfast. a quiet bar for residents. It’s off Kabunduli

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Karonga (245km)

Lunyangwa Dambo Mzuzu Hotel (%01-332622; mzh@sdnp.org.mw; s/d Viphya Dr. Next to the hotel the Choma Bar

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
7
1 9
US$50/64) Mzuzu’s plushest hotel has large provides loud evening entertainment with a

Bo
rooms with all the requisite trimmings, but local flavour.

ar
Lubinga Rd

dm
ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
an
10

ὈὈὈ Rd
20
Katoto
Kaning'ina

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Main
15 WHERE TO ON THE LAKE?

a Rd
Market
21
Dominating the country’s landscape, the irresistible Lake Malawi draws in visitors with the promise

belw
8
17
era Rd of clear waters, beautiful marine life and days spent lazing on picture-perfect beaches. It has

M'M
Mawer 16 13 14

Du
To Lilongwe

ndu
St Denis St
6 often been described as an inland sea and, when trying to spot Mozambique’s hazy silhouette

ὅὅὅ
(380km)

zu
3 19 1
18 5 4 on the horizon, it’s easy to see why. The lake’s enigmatic weather often entertains storms thick

Cre
M
ap Police

ὈὈὈ
2 ale

s
clocktower Orton enough to rouse 5m waves and intimidating swells, shifting within an hour to flawless blue skies

ὅὅὅ
Cr Chewa
es Ave
Nkhata Bay reflected in the water’s glassy veneer.
Mh
2
(50km)
one
The lakeshore’s environment changes starkly from dramatic escarpments in the north to flat,

ὅὅὅ
r
a D
Rd
12 sandy bays in the south. It can be tough figuring out where to go, so the following should help

y
INFORMATION Mzuzu Hotel............................11 C3

Viph
Kanjedza you decide.
Dot.com Internet......................1 C2 Mzuzu Tourist Lodge...............12 D2 Dr

nduli
First Merchant Bank.................2 C2 Zirigirani..................................13 C2
Mzuzu Business Centre............3 C2

Kabu

ὈὈὈ
National Bank of Malawi..........4 C2 EATING
Stanbic Bank............................5 C2 China Great Wall Restaurant....14 C2
The North
Food Stalls................................15 C1 11 The least developed section of the lake is home to Chitimba, which serves as a magnet to over-
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Maharaja Restaurant................16 C2
Museum..................................6 C2 Ossie's.....................................17 C2
land trucks coming in from Tanzania. To escape from the partying hordes, head for the remote
3
Peoples Supermarket................18 C2 and tranquil villages of Ruarwe and Usisya.
SLEEPING Virginia Provisions...................19 C2 Golf Course
MALAWI

MALAWI
CCAP Resthouse.......................7 B1
Council Resthouse...................8 C2 TRANSPORT
Flame Tree Guesthouse............9 A1 Bus Station................................20 B1 Nkhata Bay
Mzoozoozoo..........................10 D1 Local Minibuses........................21 B2 This scenic town is the most popular backpackers’ haunt on the lake. There’s a wide range of
accommodation here that will satisfy most tastes and budgets, and the excellent diving, kayaking,
socialising and laid-back atmosphere leads to many an unintentionally long visit.
Sights rooms that will suffice if you’re really short
The museum (museums@malawi.net; M’Mbelwa Rd; of cash.
admission MK200; h7am-noon & 1-5pm) has interest- Zirigirani (%01-332622; mzh@sdnp.org.mw; St Denis St; Likoma & Chizumulu Islands
ing displays on the history of African and s/d US$3/6) Mzuzu’s newest offering for budget Sublime beaches, unparalleled diving, breathtaking walks, preserved cultures and a beautiful
European peoples in northern Malawi and a travellers had just opened and was in final missionary cathedral make these islands a must-see. There’s excellent accommodation, from
section on indigenous plants and wildlife. The stages of development at the time of research. budget beach huts to five-star luxury, and a rare opportunity to immerse yourself in untainted
best feature, however, is the cultural dancing, It was shaping up to be a good choice, though. village life.
which staff can organise if they know visitors Bang in the centre of town, it has clean, simple
are coming. and cheap rooms opening onto a pleasant Chintheche Strip
courtyard. A secluded collection of camping grounds, lodges and resorts pepper this picturesque stretch of
Sleeping Kaka Motel (%01-332337; s/d with shared bathroom the lake, a hop, skip and jump from the wooded hills of the Viphya Plateau.
CCAP Resthouse (William Koyi Guest House; %01-333050; US$3.80/5, d US$13-15) This place, 6km north of
Boardman Rd; camping per person US$0.80, dm US$2.50, town, has plenty of clean and simple rooms in Senga Bay
r with shared/private US$6/9.50) Northeast of the bus a sprawling bush setting. Breakfast is included, The nearest beach paradise to Lilongwe offers a wide range of places to stay, excellent snorkelling
station, this is spotless and well organised. It’s the staff are accommodating and there’s secure and bush walking, and trips to the nearby islands to see giant monitor lizards.
operated by the church so a respectful code parking.
of conduct is appropriate. Mzuzu Tourist Lodge (%01-332097; Orton Chewa
Mzoozoozoo (%08-864493; camping US$1, dm US$3, Ave; camping per person US$5, s/d with shared bathroom Cape Maclear
d US$7) This is Mzuzu’s only hostel and the US$20/27, s/d US$29/36) Set on a pretty property The crowds once swarmed this popular backpackers’ haunt in Malawi, but have now moved
friendly owners make it a good one. Dorms east of town, the Mzuzu has pleasant but ar- on, prompted by increasing hassle from beach boys. It’s still a nice spot to swim, sail and dive,
are in a big timber bungalow, and a stream of guably overpriced rooms (although the room though, and perfectly placed to explore Lake Malawi National Park.
activity buzzes around the funky outdoor bar. rates do include breakfast) and a green and
There’s tasty food (dishes MK700), and the secure camping area. The evening meals cost Monkey Bay to Mangochi
place is a mine of info about the locale. around US$3. A smattering of top-end hotels, midrange resorts and budget lodges here all have a few kilometres
Council Resthouse (s/d US$1.50/3) Off M’Mbelwa Flame Tree Guesthouse (%01-333053; r with of private beach and the facilities to keep you from moving far.
Rd, near the small market, this place has basic shared/private bathroom US$12/15) A relaxed option,
 188 N O R T H E R N MA L A W I • • N k h a t a B a y lonelyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
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Eating NKHATA BAY 0

0
400 m
0.2 miles
and it’s easy to get lulled into eating, sleeping of options, including five-day PADI courses
Ossie’s (meals MK250) A lovely café, shielded by and drinking within their confines. However, for US$260 and casual day dives for US$20.
trees from the bustle of the road, and set in a A B patronising local eateries, mixing with the Travellers rave about these guys, particularly
To Usisya
little palm-filled garden squeezed in between (50km);
Chilumba
locals and general meandering are good fun the company’s attention to safety; groups are
the road and a cornfield. Food includes decent Hospital (80km) and well worth the extra energy. a maximum of six people. You should try to
burgers and curries. 1 book in advance, but if they’re full you only
China Great Wall Restaurant (%01-333609; St Denis Lake Information have to wait a few days for the next course
St; starters US$1.30, mains US$1.50-3; hlunch & dinner) Malawi There’s nowhere to change money so make to start.

ὄ
5
Serves a huge assortment of tasty Chinese To Chintheche (40km);
Mzuzu (50km);
sure you cash up in Mzuzu, Nkhotakota or
8
dishes in virtually any variation, including Nkhotakota (195km)
Ilala To Likoma Island (60km);
Lilongwe. Alternatively, several of the lodges VOLUNTEERING
18
seafood and vegetarian. Jetty Nkhotakota (180km);
Monkey Bay (380km)
accept credit cards, US currency and travel- If you want to give something back to the
Maharaja Restaurant (%09-351550; St Denis St; 14
16
13 lers cheques for payment. Internet access is community during your stay, Africa Unplugged
starters US$2, mains US$4; hlunch & dinner) Satisfy your 12
4
available at Aqua Africa (p190). (%09-471742; www.africaunplugged.org.uk) is an excel-
1
chilli cravings here with a wide variety of tasty Police lent place to start. Run by the owner of Ku-

ὄ
curries and tandoori dishes. 2 7
Dangers & Annoyances penja Lodge, it has several projects in the area
2
Virginia Provisions (St Denis St; meals US$2) Neat little 17
9
Although security is less of a problem here including a victim support centre, learning and
er
place serving local Malawian food on a wide, than it was a couple of years ago, it still pays resource centre and a nursery school. In return

iv
11

ata R
6
wicker-filled balcony overlooking the street. 15
to be cautious. Travellers have been attacked for lending their support, volunteers can stay
For cheap eats, there are food stalls around kh and robbed when walking outside the town at Kupenja (below) at a reduced rate.
N Chikale
Bay
the market and the Council Resthouse. Self- Chikale centre (especially to/from Chikale Beach),
caterers can stock up at the Peoples Supermarket 3
10
Beach
so take extra care when walking this route. Tours
(Orton Chewa Ave). Most travellers will encounter a fair amount Baby Butterfly (%09-265065; Butterfly Lodge; www
of hassle from local beach boys offering a .lake-paradise.com) Based at Butterfly Lodge; organises
Getting There & Away 3 INFORMATION bewildering amount of services from beach tours on request to Likoma and Chizumulu Islands, Mozam-
Post Office..........................................................(see 6)
AIR barbecues to personalised key rings. If you’re bique, Usisya and Ruarwe on a speed boat for US$300 per
MALAWI

MALAWI
Air Malawi flies between Lilongwe and Mzuzu SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES not interested, be polite but very firm and they day (maximum four people).
Aqua Africa .......................................................(see 4)
(see p233 for details). Baby Butterfly.....................................................(see 6) should leave you alone. Budget Tours & Safaris (%09-278903; www.budget
Budget Tours & Safaris......................................(see 11) -safaris.com) Based at Safari Cottage; organises well-run
Craft Stalls............................................................1 A2
BUS Craft Stalls............................................................2 A2 Activities and interesting safaris around northern Malawi. A five-day
The Sacremento bus runs between Mzuzu Monkey Business...................................................3 B3 SWIMMING safari to Vwaza Marsh Reserve, Nyika National Park, Living-
and Lilongwe (US$18, four hours, Monday, SLEEPING On the southern side of Nkhata Bay, Chikale stonia and Karonga costs from US$195, including all meals
Wednesday, Saturday) and express buses Aqua Africa...........................................................4
Big Blue.................................................................5
B2
A1
Beach is a popular spot for swimming and and camping. For those who want to explore the region
travel to/from Lilongwe (US$12, seven to eight 4 Butterfly Lodge......................................................6 B2 lazing on the sand, especially at weekends. with a bit more flexibility, they can also arrange a car with
Ilala Bay Lodge......................................................7 A2
hours, two daily) via Kasungu (US$2.50, three Kupenja Lodge......................................................8 A1
Snorkelling equipment is free for guests at driver from US$110 per day.
hours). Ordinary buses go to Rumphi (US$1, Mayoka Village.....................................................9 B2 most of the lodges.
1½ hours, four daily), Nkhata Bay (US$1, two Njaya...................................................................10
Safari Cottage.....................................................11
B3
A2
Sleeping
hours, two daily) and Karonga (US$3.80, seven Safari Guest House.............................................12 A2 KAYAKING Nkhata Bay has several places to stay, all
hours, four daily) through Chitimba (US$2, EATING For something more active, Monkey Business strung out in a line along the road into town
four hours). Minibuses also go to these destin- Harbour Café......................................................13 B2 (%01-252365) on Chikale Beach operates fully in- and along the lakeshore. Places are described
Mr & Mrs Restaurant..........................................14 A2
ations and are slightly more expensive, but Nkhata Bay Local Restaurant...............................15 B2 clusive (meals, kayaks, guides and tents) kayak roughly north to south. All beds at the fol-
also more frequent. PTC Supermarket................................................16 A2 excursions from two to seven days, from US$35 lowing have mosquito nets. To get from town
A bus originating in Lilongwe travels be- 5 per person per day. Typical itineraries include to the lodges at Chikale Beach, stay on the
DRINKING
tween Mzuzu and Dar es Salaam (US$35, Golden Dawg.....................................................17 A2 idyllic spots along the northern lakeshore such dirt road, cross the bridge and head up hill
17 hours, Tuesday and Saturday). Depart- TRANSPORT as Usisya and Ruarwe, or spectacular trips to and down dale (always seems harder with a
Bus & Matola Stop..............................................18 A2
ing Mzuzu around midnight, it crosses the Likoma and Chizumulu Islands, sailing aboard backpack). It’s about 30 minutes’ walk.
border at first light, goes through Mbeya in the Ilala ferry, then paddling around the Mo- Big Blue (% 01-352316; bigblue@sdnp.org.mw;
the morning and gets to Dar es Salaam late in zambique shore. Journeys are broken by stop- camping per person US$1.50, dm/s/d with shared bathroom
the afternoon. set, and most recreation certainly involves a overs at fishing villages and empty beaches, and US$3/4/6) Large, ramshackle place that has
good deal of lounging by the water. ‘Town’, these trips are a great way to explore the area. clearly seen better days. However, the staff
NKHATA BAY nestled into a gully with the bay to the west It also arranges one-day kayak-bushwalk-dive are very friendly, it’s a good deal cheaper than
Nkhata Bay is a lush tropical indent on the and a gentle rise of dense forest to the east, is tours for US$40 per person. the options in Chikale and it frequently has
northern lakeshore that lures a constant a bustling clutch of markets, craft stalls, local special offers and discounts.
stream of travellers with its Caribbeanesque activity and visitors. The good cross section DIVING Kupenja Lodge (%09-471742; camping US$1.50, s/d
milieu. This may be a touch fanciful, but the of ‘lodges’ here are all fully equipped to en- If you want to learn scuba diving, Aqua Africa US$3.50/5) A quiet, homely place with cosy stone
bay is quite picturesque at sunrise and sun- tertain you from dawn to well past bedtime, (%01-352284; www.aqua-africa.co.uk) has a variety chalets, a relaxed lounging area and delicious
 190 N O R T H E R N MA L A W I • • N k h a t a B a y Book accommodation online
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food. It has a nice stretch of sandy beach, It’s mostly popular with Tanzanians and For self-catering, the PTC Supermarket Usisya Lodge or at Butterfly Lodge (opposite)
which is blissfully hassle-free and provides Malawians and has a more local feel than on the main drag is the best bet, although the for Wherearewe.
a great antidote to the party atmosphere of other places, so is a good place to stay if you range is rather limited. It’s also possible to walk south from Chi-
some of the Chikale Beach lodges. The owner want to avoid the backpacker hordes. timba Bay. This journey takes two to three
runs the charity Africa Unplugged (see Vol- Aqua Africa (%01-352284; www.aqua-africa.co.uk; tw Getting There & Away days, and you should be well prepared with
unteering, p189; volunteers get a discount at US$20; i) Has a few secluded and comfortable All buses and minibuses go from the bus water, food and a tent. The tracks are clear,
the lodge) and ploughs a lot of profits back rooms with balconies overlooking the private stand on the main road. Ordinary buses run and it’s an excellent way to explore the un-
into the local community. beach. It’s also home to Nkhata Bay’s only to Mzuzu (US$1, two hours, two daily) and touched northern shore and visit the many
Safari Guest House (%01-352371; s/d/tr with shared internet café, which has a superfast connec- minibuses and matola run to Nkhotakota villages along the way. Speak to the lodges at
bathroom US$2/2.50/3) Has small, clean, safe rooms tion for US$6 an hour. (US$4, six hours), Chintheche (US$1, one either end before you set out for an update on
with fans and a secluded garden laden with Safari Cottage (%09-278903; www.safari-cottage hour) and Mzuzu (US$1.30, 1½ hours). To track conditions.
brilliant bougainvillea. .com; cottage per day/week/month US$45/215/520) An reach Lilongwe, go to Mzuzu and transfer.
Butterfly Lodge (%09-265065; www.lake-paradise excellent self-catering option if you fancy Many travellers also come or go on the Ilala CHINTHECHE STRIP
.com; camping per person US$3, dm US$4, hut s/d with shared a change from the lodges. It has three bed- ferry (see p234). Chintheche is an unremarkable village about
bathroom US$8/15, cottages per person US$17) Quieter rooms, kitchen, living room and a great big 40km south of Nkhata Bay. Nearby is a long
than its neighbours, with comfortable rooms, veranda with those prerequisite stunning AROUND NKHATA BAY and beautiful stretch of lakeshore known as
a good restaurant and an atmospheric bar, all views of the lake. The price includes secure North of Nkhata Bay, the steep slopes of the the ‘Chintheche Strip’. It’s lined with hotels,
scattered over a rocky, tree-coated incline. parking, 24-hour security, satellite TV and a Rift Valley escarpment plunge straight down lodges and camping grounds, each catering
Cottage rates include breakfast, and use of daily cleaning service. to the lake, and there’s no room for a road for different types of traveller. They all lie
the kitchen is free for self-caterers. alongside the shore. The isolated villages between 2km and 5km east of the main road
Njaya (%01-352342; www.njayalodge.com; camping per Eating & Drinking along this stretch provide a remote experi- that runs between Nkhata Bay and Nkhota-
person US$3, dm $5, bandas per person US$8, chalets US$20, Mr & Mrs Restaurant (mains US$1; h11am–7pm) On a ence that is well worth the trek. kota, and usually involve a drive or walk along
cottages from US$25) Offers Asian-style reed chalets small side road leading off the main drag, this Usisya Lodge (bigblue@sdnp.org.mw; hammocks per a dirt track through forest or farmland. If
(bandas) on Chikale Beach and a range of is a small local joint offering healthy portions person US$1.30, camping per person US$2, dm US$2.50, reed hut you’re travelling by bus, the express services
cabins and bungalows strewn over the hillside of fish and meat with nsima (boiled maize s/d with shared bathroom US$5/10), approximately may not stop at every turn-off, but minibuses
MALAWI

MALAWI
overlooking the lake on a wide sandy beach. meal) or rice. It’s a great place to watch the 50km north of Nkhata Bay, is a small, Rob- stop almost anywhere on request.
The bar/restaurant has panoramic views, but world go by while listening to the reggae tunes inson Crusoesque beach lodge, sheltered Chintheche is the site of the Lake of Stars
the food is only average. You can get your blasting out of the barbers next door. by dense vegetation and spectacular moun- Malawi Music Festival (www.lakeofstarsfestival.co.uk),
laundry done here, and for all you city slickers, Harbour Café (snacks & mains US$1-4.50; h10am- tains. An open bar furnished with cushioned every September. It attracts live music acts
credit cards are accepted. 9pm) Opposite Aqua Africa is this open-air benches, planted firmly near the water’s edge, from around Africa and the UK and lasts for
oMayoka Village (%01-352421; info@ place with views of the lake as well as the vil- makes for some healthy lazing and free-flowing three days. Proceeds go to the charity Chil-
mayoka-village.com; camping US$3, chalet s/d with shared lage streets. It serves good breakfasts and light conversation, as do the communal meals. dren in the Wilderness.
bathroom US$5/8, chalet s/d US$15/20) A very popular lunches as well as more substantial dinners, Fifteen kilometres further north and barely
place and deservedly so – it’s a sprawling, such as toad-in-the-hole, pizzas and roasts. It perceptible from the water is Wherearewe (www Activities
buzzing collection of picturesque chalets and also does a great line in homemade cakes. .lake-paradise.com; camping per person US$1.30, dm US$2, VOLUNTEERING
beach huts, all meticulously constructed out Nkhata Bay Local Restaurant (mains US$2-3; chalet s/d with shared bathroom from US$5/10). This hid- A good place to lend your support is Ripple
of stone, bamboo and wood, with fans and hnoon-9pm) A small and charming wood, reed den retreat, near the village of Ruarwe, has Africa (www.rippleafrica.org). Formerly the budget
private chairs and tables overlooking the bay. and thatch café, complete with jaw-dropping stone and thatch chalets and an impressive Mwaya Beach Lodge, it now serves as a base
There’s no beachfront to speak of, but there views over the bay, perched on the side of the bar sculpted around natural rock formations, for the charity and mostly houses volunteers,
are plenty of chill-out spots near the water, hill on the road up to Chikale Beach. Dishes with rock art and pillars carved by Nkhata Bay although the occasional tourist may pass
perfect for sunbathing and shooting the from the small menu (butterfish is their spe- artists. A troop of fish eagles, kingfishers and through. Projects to get involved in include
breeze. There’s also an extensive menu and ciality) must be ordered about an hour in otters regularly entertain guests, and on a clear reforestation, tree conservation and the con-
the food is excellent, helped by vegies and advance, but are well worth the wait. The day it’s possible to spot tin roofs shimmering struction of a new secondary school. Volun-
herbs grown in their very own garden. What owners are keen drummers and can always in the distance on the Tanzanian mountain teers are given free accommodation in return
really attracts people, though, is the infectious, be persuaded to show off, or to teach you, ranges. This is also a great base to walk for for their assistance, and available positions
lively atmosphere. The energetic bar – an open, their skills. an hour, or three days, on paths well trodden include teaching assistants, health care assist-
breezy spot overlooking the water – plays host Golden Dawg (%01-352397; h11am-late) Named by local feet. ants and environmental volunteers. They
to regular barbecue nights and Malawian buf- after the resident Golden Retriever, this is a The Ilala ferry (see p234) stops at both don’t accept walk-in applicants, so you must
fets, as well as Malawian music nights; and the large bar with a (normally empty) dance floor Usisya and Ruarwe villages, which are a 20- apply in advance, preferably from your home
friendly owners make a real effort to chat to and a big screen TV for those all-important minute walk north and south of the lodges country.
the punters, get the party started and ensure footy matches. There’s also a movie theatre (ie respectively. Both lodges also transfer guests
that everyone feels right at home. a room with a big TV in it) at the back, which from Nkhata Bay by speed boat. It takes DIVING
Ilala Bay Lodge (%01-352362; B&B s/d US$15/20) can be rented for a couple of hours for up to around 4½ hours to get to Usisya Lodge and Aquanuts Dive School (%01-357376; www.aquanuts
Clean simple rooms with good bathrooms and 15 people; there are a selection of DVDs to six to Wherearewe, and both destinations .info) has an on-site training pool and offers
balconies, set on a private stretch of beach. choose from and the whole deal costs $10. cost US$20. Book at the Big Blue (p189) for PADI courses for US$265, casual dives from
 192 N O R T H E R N MA L A W I • • L i k o m a I s l a n d Book accommodation online
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US$30 and PADI Scuba refresher courses for activities, there’s Aquanuts PADI resort and population – international or domestic. These traders come here from nearby Mozambique
US$45. It’s well run and pays excellent atten- Kande Horse Trails offering three-hour rides are possibly the friendliest people in Malawi to sell firewood, vegetables and – bizarrely –
tion to safety and the environment. (including swimming on horseback!). If that and there is no crime on the island. fish. The Ilala stops at another beach about
doesn’t float your boat you can hire mountain Likoma’s flat and sandy south is littered 1km to the south.
YOGA bikes, canoes, kayaks, sailboards, windsurfers with stately baobabs, and has a constant pano-
If you’ve come to Malawi to find inner peace, or snorkelling equipment. Pick ups from any rama of Mozambique’s wild coast only 40km Activities
this is the place to be. Makuzi Beach Lodge (www lodge on the strip for activities. away. In the hilly north, prolific eucalypts Swimming is a must on Likoma and best on the
.makuzibeach.com) has a variety of yoga and medi- Kawiya Kottages (sosmalawi@globemw.net; camping and mango trees compete for views over the long stretches of beach in the south, although
tation retreats on offer. The lodge has its own per person US$5, chalets US$10) About 3km north of vast enormity of the lake. The main drawcard Yofu Bay in the north is also good. The tropi-
qualified Sivananda yoga instructor and of- Chintheche village, it has two simple cabins is an abundance of pristine beaches and the cal fish population has been unaffected by the
fers five-day courses for US$550, including in a shady site on a private bit of beach. Each activities revolving around them, but there’s a mainland’s overfishing, and the snorkelling
all meals and accommodation. For an extra is fully self-contained, including an equipped healthy dose of other activities, both cultural is excellent. For a closer look, Mango Drift
US$40, you can add on a Reiki attunement kitchen. and physical, to fill several days here. Those (below) arranges four-day open-water PADI
to the end of your course. Lushes and carni- Chintheche Beach Lodge (r US$5) This is nearer looking for wild parties or another beach scuba-diving courses for US$250, including
vores be warned: all retreats are run in strict to town, down the track running west from to conquer will be disappointed, however; accommodation. The island’s compact but
observation of a yoga lifestyle and there’s no the Peoples Supermarket. It has clean, two- Likoma’s beauty is its preservation, and both diverse area is perfect for walking or mountain
smoking, booze or red meat allowed. bed rooms with bathroom and, although you the lodges and locals are happy to keep it biking – you can bring bikes across on the ferry
need to bring your own food, the friendly that way. or hire them from Mango Drift for US$10
Sleeping caretaker will cook it for you. See the map on p178 for details of facilities per day.
London Cottages (%01-357291; camping US$2.50, chalets Chintheche Inn (%/fax 01-357211; chininn@malawi on Likoma Island. When exploring, remember that this isn’t
US$6.50) A second track leading west culminates .net; camping per person US$5.50, s/d US$59/88) A grand the Costa del Sol – the people here live a very
here, with slightly neglected two-bed chalets, and beautiful property, with cabanas on the Sights traditional way of life, so keep your clothing
set on a sprawling, green site by the beach. beach and cane furniture under shady trees In Chipyela, the impressive Anglican Cath- and behaviour suitably modest.
There’s also a bar and restaurant (dishes on the expansive lawns. Tasteful and elegant edral of St Peter should not be missed (see the A greater understanding of Chewa cul-
US$2) serving the usual chicken or chambo rooms each have their own veranda and path boxed text, below). You can climb the tower ture can be experienced by a consultation
MALAWI

MALAWI
and chips fare. leading to the beach, and rates include full for spectacular views. Nearby, the neat market with Likoma’s witch doctor. His clinic is near
Flame Tree Lodge (camping per person US$2.50, chalets buffet breakfast. The restaurant (dishes US$5 place contains a few shops and stalls, and an Khuyu Village and you will need to make an
US$19) About 2km down the main road, and to US$10) serves very good food. Activities on old baobab overtaken by a strangler fig, now appointment.
another 2km along a track, this is a peaceful offer include windsurfing (US$2 per hour), rotted away from underneath and used by the
place with smart and pleasant two-bed chalets village visits and birding walks. If you want locals as a storeroom. Down on the lakeshore Sleeping & Eating
set on a beautiful promontory jutting into to reserve a room and can’t get through, call is a beach where local boats come and go, and Mango Drift (camping per person US$1, dm US$3, chalet s/d
the lake. The showers are hot, and there’s an Wilderness Safaris (p170) in Lilongwe. the people wash and sell fish. Don’t be sur- with shared bathroom US$4/8) A series of simple stone
open-air bar and restaurant (dishes US$5). Makuzi Beach Lodge (%01-357296; www.makuzi prised if some people greet you in Portuguese; and thatched chalets and a bright, breezy bar,
This is a suitable place for families, couples beach.com; camping per person US$10, chalet s/d US$82/144)
or small groups. This can be found by continuing south down
Nkhwazi Lodge (camping US$3) A good place the main road where you’ll reach the turn-off LIKOMA MISSIONARIES & THE CATHEDRAL OF ST PETER
overlooking a small sandy cove. It can be to Bandawe (also called Old Bandawe); it’s European involvement on Likoma Island began in 1882 when members of UMCA (Universities
found by travelling another 1km south down another 3.5km down the track. The accom- Mission to Central Africa) established a base here. The leaders of the party, Will Johnson and
the main road where you’ll reach a signpost to modation and facilities here are a step up in Chauncey Maples, chose the island as protection from attacks from the warlike Ngoni and Yao
the ‘CCAP School’ (also called New Bandawe); quality, and the restaurant (lunch US$5 to peoples.
go through here to reach this South African– US$7, dinner US$17 to US$20) serves the best Maples became the first bishop of Likoma, but he died only a few months after being appointed,
run place. There are basic but clean ablution food on the strip. If you’re feeling active you drowning in the lake off Monkey Bay. Despite the setback, missionary work on the island continued.
blocks, and a ‘pub’ with home-cooked meals can hire a windglider, power boat, mountain Between 1903 and 1905 the huge cathedral was built and dedicated to St Peter – appropriately
from US$3 to US$5. bike or even a yacht. a fisherman. Today it remains one of Malawi’s most remarkable buildings.
Kande Beach Camp (%01-357376; www.kandebeach The cathedral measures over 100m long by 25m wide, and has stained-glass windows and
.com; camping US$3, dm US$5, chalets US$30) About 7km LIKOMA ISLAND elaborate choir stalls carved from soapstone. The crucifix above the altar was carved from wood
from the Makuzi turn-off (55km south of Likoma and Chizumulu Islands are on the from the tree where Livingstone’s heart was buried in Zambia.
Nkhata Bay). It’s a legendary stop for over- Mozambican side of Lake Malawi, but are It was built at a part of the island called Chipyela, meaning ‘Place of Burning’, because the
land trucks, where beach life, good times and part of Malawi. early UMCA arrivals had witnessed suspected witches being burned alive here. The island’s main
late-night partying is the name of the game. The blissful island of Likoma measures 17 settlement grew up around the cathedral and is still call Chipyela today.
All accommodation is excellent (chalets sleep sq km and is home to around 6000 people. The UMCA missionaries remained on Likoma until the 1940s. During that time they were hard
three to four people) and the smorgasbord of Isolation from the mainland has enabled the at work – they claimed 100% literacy among the local population at one point. The cathedral
facilities include a large bar, a games room, a locals here to maintain their reserved culture, fell into disrepair but was restored in the 1970s and 1980s, and local people are understandably
book exchange and the Soft Sand Cafe (dishes shaped partly by the religious legacy of mis- very proud of it.
US$4 to US$6), which serves great pizzas. For sionaries, but also by the lack of any transient
 ὈὈ
ὈὈ Ὀ
194 C E N T R A L MA L A W I • • V i p h y a P l a t e a u lonelyplanet.com Book
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spread across a beautiful beach on the west- lake, this lodge can organise a boat transfer. CENTRAL MALAWI 0
0
50 km
30 miles
ern side of the island. At the time of writing, For more details, see p284.

ὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈ
Ὀ
To Mzuzu To Nkhata Bay
Mango Drift was about to go through a major (49km) (11km)

refurbishment, though it will remain squarely CHIZUMULU ISLAND Kasito

Lodge
Chikangawa Chintheche
aimed at the budget traveller. ‘Chizzie’ is smaller than Likoma (and just Mzimba Vi p h y a Bandawe
Alemekezeke Resthouse (s/d with shared bathroom a few kilometres away) and even more de- Edingeni
Pla t eau
Luwawa Chizumulu Island
US$2/3.80) In Chipyela, this place offers basic tached from the mainland. Stretches of lucid Forest (Malawi)
Luwawa Lodge
rooms with nets around a central courtyard. azure water and white rocky outcrops give Forest Luwawa Likoma Island

ὈὈὈὈὈ
Dam (Malawi)
It has a small restaurant (dishes US$3) and is this island a Mediterranean flavour, while the Lundazi Cóbuè

a nice place to immerse yourself in the village backdrop of dry scrub is positively antipo- Katete Lake
Unaka
Jenda
Lagoon Malawi
atmosphere. dean. The slow and friendly village activity MOZAMBIQUE
M
Kaya Mawa (www.kayamawa.com; full-board chalets on the perimeter of idyllic beaches, however, 1 Dwangwa
per person from US$180) Run by the same friendly is unmistakably Malawian. If you want to visit R iver
Kasungu a
bunch as Mango Drift. This luxury lodge is both islands, transport links make it best to Lukusuzi National Park n gw
wa Nkhotakota

ὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
National Park Metangula
one of Africa’s finest paradise retreats, and go to Chizumulu first. D Wildlife
Reserve Mphonde
its beauty lies in the ingenuity of its design. Wakwenda Retreat (camping US$2, dm US$2.50, r from Mt Miondwe
v er
(1330m) Ri Bua

ver
Each chalet has been meticulously constructed US$4), smack bang on a postcard-perfect beach, Ri Chipata
Camp
Nkhotakota
gadzi Gate
around the natural landscape, using rock faces is utter chill-out material. The sizeable bar is ZAMBIA L in Chipata Camp M
Kasungu (1374m) 18
Lifupa Lodge
as walls or screens for open-air showers and constructed around a massive, hollow baobab & Camp Mbobo
Chia
Lagoon
stone baths. There are two honeymoon islets, tree, and the shaded lounge area is often the To South Luangwa Mt Chipiri Bua Malomo
National Park (50km) (1225m)
Ntchisi
one of which even has its own loveseat cable focus of lazy activity. The restaurant (breakfasts Peak
Ntchisi (1705m) Benga Lichinga
car. The bar, perched on the top of a huge rock US$1.50, dishes US$2.50) serves good beachy fare,

ver
M
M Ntchisi M

Ri
1
buttress, offers seamless views of mango-hued including sandwiches, omelettes and burgers. sa 7 Forest 5 Mbenje Island
Chipata Ru Reserve Domira Bay
sunsets, and the meals are possibly the finest Snorkelling gear is free, and you can hire div- Mponela
Sungu Spit Meponda
Dowa
in Malawi. The owners have gone to pains- ing equipment for US$15 to US$25 depending
MALAWI

MALAWI
Makanjila
taking length to be unobtrusive on both the on where you dive. Mchinji
Chilobwe Mt Chiponde M
Point
Senga Makanjila
(1607m) 14
landscape and local population, and this aim About 4km south on Mocho Beach, there’s er Salima Bay
Riv

ὈὈὈὈὈ
International Chilinda
To Lusaka Airport
is fully realised. a basic resthouse where rates are cheaper. (569km) Lilongwe Lake Malawi
Dedza National
Namitete M Forest
Hot Coconut Bar (mains US$0.50-1) A little dive The Ilala ferry (see p234) stops right outside 12 LILONGWE Reserve
Marine Park
Mt Msondole
M Chipoka Cape
where you can grab a drink and a snack and Wakwenda Retreat, so even if you’re not stay- Mualadzi
Dzalanyama
1 Munduni Maclear
(1800m)
Namizimu

Dz
Chanida (2056m)
converse with the locals. ing on the island you can pop over for a drink. Forest Kamuzu M Monkey Forest

al
Reserve Dam 5 Bay
Reserve

an
Dedza
A dhow ferry departs Mocho Beach daily be- Kazuzu (1654m) Mountain
M

ya
Cassacatiza Mua Kapiri 10 M Boadzulu
Getting There & Away Dzalanyama (2189m)

m
tween 10am and 1pm, and sails to Ulisa on Forest Resthouse
10 Island

a
Silamwezi Dedza
Several companies can arrange flights to Likoma Island (US$1.30). The trip can take (1713m) Masasa Club Makokola

Ra
Golomoti Kwilembe
Likoma Island, including Wilderness Safaris anything from one to three hours depending MOZAMBIQUE Lizulu

ng
Mangochi

e
(% 01-771393/153; www.wilderness-safaris.com) and on the weather; it’s an extremely choppy ride To Liwonde (120km);
Blantyre (197km)
Ulendo Air Services (%01-754717/950; air-services@ when the wind is blowing, and potentially dan-
ulendo.malawi.net). The cost of a five-seater plane gerous if a storm comes up. If you’re unsure
from Lilongwe is US$755, but you can pur- ask Nick at Wakwenda for advice. valleys and punctuated by occasional rocky 1km west of the main road between Kasungu
chase an empty seat in either direction for peaks. The dense bush of the plateau’s south and Mzuzu, this is an absolute gem. There are
a discounted price; contact the companies
directly for details.
The Ilala ferry (see p234) stops at Likoma
CENTRAL MALAWI gives way to pine plantations and colour-
ful patches of jacaranda trees in the beauti-
ful north. The journey along the main road
five rooms in this colonial house, each vary-
ing in bed number, and some still have their
original furniture. The communal showers are
Island twice a week, usually for three to four Central Malawi is home to the country’s most between Kasungu and Mzuzu is stunning, hot, the toilets are clean and the large, stately
hours, so even if you’re heading elsewhere, popular beach resorts and a fantastic cultural particularly when a sunny day reveals distant lounge has a roaring wood fire. You can sup-
you might be able to nip ashore to have a museum at the Mua Mission. This section mountains breaking through the western ho- ply your own food and the friendly staff will
quick look at the cathedral (see the boxed covers most parts of Malawi’s Central Prov- rizon (but don’t be surprised if there’s dense cook (a tip is appropriate), or you can utilise
text, p193). Check with the captain before ince with the addition of the Viphya Plateau. mist and rain). If you’ve got a few days to the restaurant. There are excellent views of the
you leave the boat. Places are described north to south. spare this is a good area to relax away from surrounding forests inside and out.
Heading south, the Ilala then sails to Cóbuè the hubbub of towns or cool down from the To reach Kasito by car from the south, you
(kob-way) and Metangula on the Mozambican VIPHYA PLATEAU heat of the lakeshore. continue 27km beyond the Mzimba junction
mainland. Local dhows also sail to Cóbuè for Viphya Plateau is a highland area, running on the main sealed road towards Mzuzu; the
US$0.80. Alternatively, if you’re planning to like a broad backbone through northcentral Sleeping lodge is signposted on your left. Coming from
go to the exceptional Mchenga Nkwichi (Lake Niassa, Malawi. Despite its name, this area is not flat Kasito Lodge (Map p195; %01-343219; camping per person the north, you pass a large wood factory at
Mozambique) nearby on the opposite side of the but consists mostly of rolling hills, cut by river US$1.30, s/d with shared bathroom US$6.50/13) Less than Chikangawa village, and the turn-off to the
 196 C E N T R A L MA L A W I • • K a s u n g u Book accommodation online
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lodge is a few kilometres beyond here on the KASUNGU NATIONAL PARK the lake. Nkhotakota makes a good break in SOUTH OF NKHOTAKOTA
right. If you’re travelling by bus, ask the driver Kasungu National Park lies to the west of any journey along the lakeshore, but don’t About 24km south of Nkhotakota is the en-
to drop you at the junction. Kasito Lodge is Kasungu town, and covers more than 2000 sq expect much action. Neverthelss, the sleepy trance to Chia Lagoon, a large bay linked to
less than 1km from the junction. km. The gently rolling hills, with a few pointed and quiet pace in the village-like outskirts may the main lake by a narrow channel, which is
Luwawa Forest Lodge (Map p195; %08-829725; rocky outcrops, are covered in miombo wood- be just what’s needed after buses and tourist crossed by a bridge near the main road. Local
www.plusdata.uklinux.net; camping per person US$5, chalets land, which is relatively dense because the mayhem. There’s a branch of the Commercial people fish here using large triangular nets
from US$50) Lies 8km east of the main road park’s elephant population (which would Bank of Malawi on the main north–south on poles, and seem resigned to having their
between Kasungu and Mzuzu; take the sign- naturally act as ‘gardeners’) has been seriously road, which offers foreign exchange facilities photos taken by tourists on the bridge.
posted road marked Luwawa D37. The lodge reduced since the 1970s by poaching. but no credit-card withdrawals. Nkhotakota Pottery (%01-292444; www.dedza
used to belong to the forestry department, Optimistic estimates suggest about 200 Things to see include the mission, with a pottery.com; s/d US$12/24) is signposted another
but it’s managed now by the energetic George elephants still remain, and the chances of spectacular tree in the grounds, under which 2.5km further south from the main road. If
Wardlow. The comfortable chalets include a seeing some is best in the dry season (May Livingstone persuaded Chief Jumbe to end you feel like resting here for a few days you
kitchen and sleep two to four people. Break- to October). Buffaloes, zebras, hippos and the slave trade in the 19th century. In the part could do a pottery course. They run a bewil-
fast and lunch costs US$5, and a hearty three- several antelope species, which were also dras- of town called Kombo is another ‘Livingstone dering array of courses from a couple of days
course dinner is US$15. But you’ll soon work tically reduced due to poaching, have begun Tree’, where an aspiring politician called Hast- to a few weeks. Course participants are housed
off the calories with the activities offered by to reappear in recent years. The bird life is ings Banda made political speeches in the in lovely chalets on the beach and accommo-
the lodge: walking trails, mountain biking excellent, with woodland and grassland spe- 1960s. Next to the BP petrol station and set dation is included in the price. Courses start
(US$5 per hour), sailing, boating (US$10 per cies, and waders. back from the highway, an aspiring group of at around US$90.
hour), fishing and long-distance wilderness Entry fees are payable (see p166). The park artists headed by the affable Oster runs Black
walks, and rides to Chintheche on the lake- has a network of driveable tracks that can be History out of a thatched shack, where you Sleeping
shore. There’s no public transport to Luwawa, toured in your own vehicle or on a wildlife can pick up good wooden carvings, pottery Sani Beach Resort (%01-292511; camping per person
so if you haven’t got wheels you’ll have to drive (US$40) organised at Lifupa Lodge. and batiks. US$1.30, hut s/d US$10/19, chalet s/d US$13/24) A few
walk, although you may be lucky and be able Guided walks can also be arranged here. kilometres off the main north–south road.
to get a ride from the main road on a log- Sleeping & Eating Simple huts and larger brick and thatch cha-
ging truck. Sleeping Pick & Pay Resthouse (%01-292459; camping US$2, r lets sit on a sandy beach, but aside from the
MALAWI

MALAWI
Lifupa Camp (Map p195; camping per person US$5) Near with shared/private bathroom US$3/5) A clean and basic great bar, which almost has 360-degree views,
KASUNGU Lifupa Lodge. If you’re taking this option option off the highway. Follow the signpost it’s a little lacking in atmosphere.
Kasungu is a fairly large town, just off the you’ll need to bring your own food (you from the main road and head towards the Njobvu Safari Lodge (%01-292506; camping per
main north–south road, and about 130km can stock up at the Peoples Supermarket in lake for 500m. There are nets and fans in the person US$2.30, s/d US$35/50) Has appealing round
northwest of Lilongwe. It has no major at- Kasungu), which you can prepare in a com- rooms, and the restaurant (dishes US$2) serves chalets with thatched roofs and cane décor, all
tractions, but you may find yourself changing munal kitchen. filling portions of barbecued fish. right on the lakeshore. Rates include breakfast,
transport here. Lifupa Lodge (Map p195; % 01-70576; s/d Kulinga Resthouse (r with shared bathroom US$2.50) and meals in the stylish restaurant (snacks
A good option is Teja Resthouse (%01-253387; US$108/132) Has a tall thatched central bar Next door to Pick & Pay, this is more basic, US$1.50, dishes US$2.50 to US$6) include
s/d US$2.50/3.50). It looks a little dilapidated out- and restaurant with a beautiful veranda over- and the shared bathrooms are best described roasted guinea fowl, vegetarian stir-fries, cur-
side, but the clean rooms have nets and some looking the dam (where animals often come as rustic. ries and of course fresh fish. The owners know
have bathrooms (for the same price) so look to drink). The simple, stylish twin-bedded Nawo Guesthouse (%01-292453; s/d US$3.80/5) On a lot about wildlife in the area and arrange
at a few. It’s east of the bus station, just as the chalets have private balconies, and rates in- the main north–south road, it offers the most day safaris to Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve
sealed road becomes dirt. The Kasungu Inn clude breakfast. The lodge has been taken accommodating rooms in town and has safe (below) for US$60, including meals, trans-
(%01-253306; s/d with bath US$36/48), at the western over by Wilderness Safaris and is undergoing parking. port, entry fees, professional guide and a good
end of town on the main road, is set in pleas- renovations. Yamikani Restaurant & Bar (mains US$1-2.50) On chance of spotting elephants.
ant and picturesque grounds and has neat and the main road, it serves simple, tasty meals,
spacious rooms. Getting There & Away as does the Prime Kitchen Restaurant, a few NKHOTAKOTA WILDLIFE RESERVE
There are several cheap local restaurants The park entrance is 35km west of Kasungu doors down. Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve lies west of the
on the main street and around the market. town. From the entrance, it’s 17km by the main lakeshore road, and covers around 1800
Golden Dish (breakfasts US$1, mains US$1.30), on the shortest route to Lifupa Lodge. There’s no Getting There & Away sq km of dense miombo forests with pockets of
main road, is a clean and friendly joint serv- public transport, so without a car you’d have You can get to Nkhotakota by the Ilala ferry evergreens carpeting hills and escarpments. It’s
ing the usual meat and nsima fare. Of similar to hitch from Kasungu – the best place to wait (see p234). To get here by bus from Lilongwe, the largest reserve in Malawi, but was virtually
quality and price is the nearby Mr Spice. The is the turn-off to the park (signposted) near take the ‘Mzuzu via Lakeshore’ ordinary bus abandoned during the 1980s and early 1990s.
bar at the Kasungu Inn is a nice place to relax the petrol station on the main road. (US$2.50, 4½ hours, two daily), which also There’s a healthy elephant population here, as
with a beer. stops in Salima. The bus will drop you off well as roan and sable antelopes, waterbucks,
All buses and minibuses between Mzuzu NKHOTAKOTA roughly outside Nkhotakota’s BP petrol sta- buffaloes and even a few lions and leopards.
and Lilongwe come through the town, and This was once the centre of slave trading in tion, which is on the highway. Matola leave Several large rivers cross the reserve, so the
there are infrequent matola along the road this region and is reputedly one of the oldest 100m further north and go to Salima (US$1.80, bird life is also varied and rewarding. Walking
through Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve to the market towns in Africa. Today it’s strung three hours) and Nkhata Bay (US$4, 5½ is the best way to experience the area, and at
lakeshore. out over 4km between the busy highway and hours). least a few hours is needed to spot wildlife.
 198 C E N T R A L MA L A W I • • S a l i m a Book accommodation online
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Entry fees are payable (see p166). You can site; you’ll find there’s a surprisingly strong
hire a scout (ranger) here to be a guide or do a undertow. Some of the beaches here are flat CICHLID FISH
day safari from Njobvu Safari Lodge (p197). and reedy – perfect conditions for bilharzia, There are around 500 species of fish in Lake Malawi. Most of these are of the family Cichlidae –
There are some dilapidated rondavels at so get advice from your hotel or lodge to see the largest family of fish in Africa – and 99% of these cichlids are endemic to the lake. Chambo,
Chipata Camp (Map p195), the reserve head- if it’s safe. familiar to anyone who has eaten in a restaurant in Malawi, are one type of cichlid. Others in-
quarters, which is about 5km north of the end Many travellers have complained about clude the small utaka, which move in big shoals and are caught by fisherman at night. But Lake
of the dirt road from Lilongwe, about 35km persistent hassling from local youths, all want- Malawi is most famous for the small and colourful mbuna, of which there are many species. As
southwest of Nkhotakota town. The best place ing to sell souvenirs or arrange boat rides. Be- well as being attractive to snorkellers and divers, mbuna are popular with aquariums, and for
to aim for is Bua Camp (Map p195; camping US$3), a ware especially of the enthusiastic guys at the scientists they provide a fascinating insight into the process of evolution. Mbuna identification
beautiful clearing on the banks of a rocky craft stalls who offer to wrap your purchase – and classification is an ongoing process, and it is thought that many species of mbuna remain
river. The turn-off to Bua is 10km north of they’ll charge more for this than you paid for undiscovered.
Nkhotakota town, then 15km on a dirt track; the carving, and swapping your souvenir for a Cichlids have evolved over the millennia from one common species into many hundreds, yet
without your own wheels the only way to get lump of wood has been tried more than once. they have continued to coexist. This has been achieved by different species developing different
here is on foot. Be polite and firm in your dealings, and you ways of feeding. Chambo eat phytoplankton, which they filter out of the water through their
should be OK. mouths, whereas mbuna have different methods of feeding. Some have developed special teeth
SALIMA to help them scrape algae off the rocks; there are also ‘snail eaters’ with strong flat teeth, perfect
The town of Salima is spread out about 20km Sights & Activities for crushing shells; and ‘sand diggers’, which filter insects and small animals out of the sand.
from the lake, where the road from Lilongwe As a break from lazing on the beach, you can Also interesting is the cichlid breeding process. The male attracts the female with his bright
meets the main lakeshore road, a wide sweep- go windsurfing or snorkelling, take a boat ride colours and, if suitably impressed, she lays eggs, which she immediately takes in her mouth for
ing central boulevard, bustling with bicycle or learn to dive. You could also take a trip out protection. The male has a pattern near his tail resembling the eggs, which the female tries to
traffic. to nearby Lizard Island to see its population of pick up, at which point the male releases his sperm into the water, which the female invariably
Mai Tsalani Motel (%01-262622; s with shared bath- giant monitor lizards and its cormorant colony. inhales. This process is repeated until all or most of the eggs are fertilised. The female keeps
room US$3, d US$5-13), about 10 minutes’ walk Many lodges and local guides can arrange this the eggs in her mouth, and when they become baby fish, they stay there for protection. They
from the bus station and close to the PTC and it should cost about US$25. Alternatively, emerge only to feed, but at the slightest sign of danger, the mother opens her mouth and the
Supermarket, has a variety of rooms from you can go hiking in the nearby Senga Hills. It’s young swim straight back in.
MALAWI

MALAWI
small and basic singles with shared bath- best to hire a local guide to show you the way
rooms to large doubles with sitting rooms (also because there have been isolated incidents
and bathrooms. Bed and breakfast rates are of robbery and harassment here). The bird- shared bathroom US$18/23, chalets US$35) This is 3km areas to put up your tent, a beach volleyball
also available. watching is excellent, with a good range of habi- down a dirt road, at the western end of the pitch, excellent security and socket points
Mwambiya Lodge (%262314; s/d US$10/12.50), tats close by. If you’re looking for souvenirs, main street. It’s a friendly spot with a good for fridges. The bathrooms are spotlessly
across the train line from the bus station, is there’s a strip of craft stalls a few kilometres restaurant (dishes US$3 to US$5), and break- clean and have hot showers. There’s a good
more of a hotel set-up, with bland but clean out of Senga Bay, on the Salima road. fast is included in the rates. There’s also a bar, circular bar, and food can be brought to you
rooms. Rates include breakfast. About 10km south of Senga Bay is Stewart outside terrace and shady gardens overlook- from the restaurant at the Livingstonia Beach
To reach Salima from Lilongwe, it’s easiest Grant’s Tropical Fish Farm (%/fax 263165), which ing the lake. While the chalets have verandas next door.
to take a minibus (US$1.50). Minibuses and breeds and exports cichlids. If you’re genu- and are quite spacious, the double and single Red Zebra Lodge (%01-263165; www.lakemalawi
matola also run frequently between Salima and inely interested you can do a half-hour tour rooms are tiny and poor value. .com; s/d US$15/20) Based at Stewart Grant’s Trop-
Senga Bay (US$1) and less frequently to Nkhata of the farm (US$0.50). Red Zebra Tours (%01- oWheelhouse Marina (%01-263139; wheel ical Fish Farm; has several brick bungalows
Bay (US$6.50), Mzuzu (US$8.50) and Blantyre 263165; www.lakemalawi.com), based here, offers house@mw.celtelplus.com; camping per person US$2, caravans with spacious and comfortable interiors. More
(US$4), via Mangochi. There are also ordinary lake safaris with an experienced guide from $12, 2-/10-bed house US$30/50) A rambling, ram- expensive B&B rates are also available, and the
buses to Mzuzu (US$6, seven hours, two daily) US$25/30 per person for a half/full day. For shackle paradise with a sense of character restaurant (dishes US$4 to US$6) cooks up a
via Nkhata Bay (US$5.50, five hours). something less active, two-hour sundowner and charm; it consists of the ruins of an old good variety of dishes, including vegetarian
cruises are also available for US$15 per per- marina, a grassy camp site, two self-catering options.
SENGA BAY son (minimum charge for the boat US$50). cottages nestled into the hillside and a groovy Cool Runnings (r with shared bathroom US$20) An
Senga Bay is at the eastern end of a broad Children are half price. old caravan for two. The cottages are lovely extremely homely and friendly place; small
peninsula that juts into the lake from Salima. with shaded veranda and great views onto the enough to feel cosy and intimate but with
The water is remarkably clear here, and the Sleeping & Eating beach and the lusciously green gardens. The enough space to chill out on your own if you
beaches, while a little more crowded than There’s a good choice of places to stay and a camp site has clean ablutions, barbecue facili- chose. It’s obvious that a lot of thought has
those at Cape Maclear or Nkhata Bay, are couple of eateries in Senga Bay. ties (with clean grills!) and picnic tables. To up been put into its design, and there are plenty of
also good. Senga Bay is also very spread out, Baobab Chalets (%01-263495; camping per person the romance factor you can have a barbecue or extra touches that make a stay here memorable
and you might have to take bicycle taxis to get US$1.30, s/d US$14/15) Near Carolina, it has small dinner in the ruins of the marina. There’s also – there’s comedy reading material in the shared
from place to place. brick chalets and a few grassy patches to pitch a quirky round bar raised above the water on bathrooms, for instance; and each bedroom is
a tent. On weekends this is a popular spot for stilts that serves great steaks and fish. named after a different African country, with
Dangers & Annoyances Malawians. Steps Campsite (camping per person US$3) Beauti- corresponding maps and framed snippets of
Take great care when swimming near the large Carolina Holiday Resort (%01-263220; shelagh@ fully situated on a wide clean sandy beach information adorning the walls. Best of all,
rocks at the end of the beach at Steps Camp- malawi.net; camping per person US$1.50, dm US$5, s/d with right beside the water, with plenty of shady though, is the tantalising food: you discuss
 200 C E N T R A L MA L A W I • • M u a Book accommodation online
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the options with the owner a couple of hours rated with jolly murals of palm trees and Bay also has a market and a Peoples Super- It’s much easier to reach Monkey Bay from
in advance, and come dinnertime, a specially seaside scenes and has shady verandas; there’s market but no ATM or money exchange. Blantyre on the ordinary bus that travels via
tailored feast will arrive at your table. also a simple menu of burgers, pizzas, chambo The Back to School Foundation (www.monkeybay Liwonde and Mangochi (US$3.80, eight
Lakeside Hotel (%01-263400/500; s/d/f US$25/38/102; and curries. .bravehost.com) is based at Njovubu Backpack- hours, one daily). A quicker option is to go
a) On the same dirt road as Carolina Holi- ers. Volunteers get free accommodation and by minibus (US$5, four hours), but you’ll
day Resort, this place is a tad sterile, but the Getting There & Away airport pick-up and drop-off in return for need to leave in the morning and you’re likely
commodious rooms come with TV, fridge, First get to Salima (for details see p198). From helping this scheme, which raises money to to change at Limbe, Mangochi and sometimes
air-con and expansive verandas with lake here, local pick-ups run to Senga Bay (US$1), send children and young adults to second- Zomba.
views and breakfast. There’s also a garden dropping you in the main street. If you want ary school. The friendly host also arranges To avoid the bus hassles, many travellers
and a large outdoor bar. The facilities and a lift all the way to Steps Campsite, negotiate trips for volunteers to areas of interest around use the Ilala ferry to travel up and down the
room to move in this hotel make it a good an extra fee with the driver. If you’re travelling Malawi. country to or from Monkey Bay (see p234).
choice for families. to/from Cape Maclear consider chartering a From Monkey Bay, a matola ride to Cape
Safari Beach Lodge (%01-263143; safwag@malawi boat; it’s not too expensive (around US$100) Sleeping Maclear should cost US$1, although some
.net; s/d US$44/65) This is 1km off the main road; if you get a group together, it’s good fun and Venice Beach Backpackers (camping per person US$1.30, travellers have reported paying more so be
turn off just before the gates to Livingstonia it saves one hell of a trip on the bus. dm US$2, d with shared bathroom US$2.50) This place is assertive when negotiating. Although not far
Beach. Clean and airy rooms in a colonial-style about 1.5km from the main road and offers away, it can take all day to get there and you
building look out to the gardens or the water. MUA dorms and rooms in a two-storey thatch build- could wait anything from 30 minutes to five
There are also safari tents perched on the side Mua is a small town between Salima and ing set on a beautiful stretch of beach. There’s hours for a matola departure.
of the hill with fans and electricity, wooden Balaka, and consists mostly of a large mission a bar with a small menu of local food; fish and
balconies with superb lake views and private with a church, a school and a hospital, which nsima is about US$2. It seems to have been CAPE MACLEAR
open-air bathrooms attached by wooden walk- has been here since the beginning of the 20th permanently under renovation for the past few Cape Maclear sits on a scenic jut of land at
ways. There is an elevated wooden walkway century. It is also home to the KuNgoni Art & years, though, and plays host to a number of the southern end of Lake Malawi, with the al-
leading from the lodge gardens down to the Craft Centre (%01-262706; admin@kungoni.org), which beach boys keen on giving the hard sell. luring Domwe and Thumbi Islands anchored
shore, and a fantastic wooden platform built features a library and research centre, a school Njovubu Backpackers (%01-587214; www.monkey offshore. It was once a travellers’ byword for
into the surrounding rocks. It’s home to the and workshop for wood carvers – you can visit bay.bravehost.com/backpackers.htm; camping US$1.50, dm/r sun, sand, rest and recreation, but the crowds
MALAWI

MALAWI
bar and makes a great spot for sundowners or to see them in action – and a craft shop, full of US$1.50/3; i) Just off the main street is this seem to have moved on elsewhere and the
dining al fresco. paintings and wood sculptures by local people. small and friendly joint with an internet café, beach is no longer as clean as it once was. It
Kambiri Holiday Resort (%01-263052/352; kam Some is of very high quality and quite unu- tidy rooms and dorms, and splendid home- is still a picturesque and relaxing place to ex-
biri@alexanderhotels.net; s/d US$45/90) Large rambling sual, covering religious and secular subjects. baked cakes. Many of the guests are volunteers perience the beauty, lifestyle and activities of
hotel with airy rooms (slightly spoiled by Prices are reasonable. There’s accommoda- working for the Back to School Foundation, the lake, however. There’s nowhere to change
the unfortunate satin bedspreads) and gar- tion here in two-bed chalets (US$30 including and a new annex was under construction at money in Cape Maclear, so make sure you
dens leading down to a large empty stretch of breakfast), and meals can also be provided the time of writing. bring enough with you.
beach. The resort attracts a mostly Malawian for overnight guests. They also run sporadic Ziwadi Resthouse (%01-587232; s/d with shared
clientele. courses on Malawian history and culture, and bathroom MKUS$2/3, s/d US$3.50/4.50) Just off the main Dangers & Annoyances
Livingstonia Beach (%01-263222; livingstonia@le there are frequent performances of dances and road. Offers tidy, simple rooms, as well as Scams to watch out for at Cape Maclear in-
meridienmalawi.co.mw; s/d US$115/130; s) All glisten- songs from Chewa, Ngoni and Yao cultures. a basic restaurant, but there’s a lot of noise clude the boys who take money in advance for
ing white and opulent, it sits at the end of the Contact the centre for further details. from the street. a boat ride or barbecue and then disappear, or
main street, past a set of imposing gates. It’s For a deeper understanding of the ideas who take you on a boat then go through your
a stylish affair; perfectly spaced sunlounges behind the sculptures, a visit to the Chamare Getting There & Away day-pack while you’re snorkelling. Real rob-
under thatched shades line the beachfront and museum (h8am-5pm Mon-Sat) is an absolute must. From Lilongwe, ordinary buses go to Mon- beries do occasionally happen on the beach
the rooms house a host of comforts including It has three exhibition rooms – beautifully dec- key Bay, either via Mua and the southern or surrounding hills; violence is very unlikely,
telephone, TV, tea- and coffee-making facili- orated with vibrant murals depicting scenes lakeshore (US$3.80, seven hours, two daily) but don’t carry anything valuable.
ties, fans and private verandas overlooking the from Malawian history – that concentrate on or the long way round, via Balaka, Liwonde
beach. On site is a tennis court, swimming the three main cultural groups of the region and Mangochi (US$4.50, 10 hours, two daily). Sights
pool (in case the lake at your doorstep is too (Chewa, Ngoni and Yao) and their approach From Lilongwe you’re probably better off Much of the area around Cape Maclear, in-
far), bar and restaurant, all set amid lush gar- to traditional beliefs, with fascinating exhibits going by minibus to Salima (US$1.50), from cluding several offshore islands, is part of Lake
dens and made-for-a-brochure views. from rituals and rites of passage. A guided tour where you might find a minibus or matola Malawi National Park, one of the few freshwater
Tophill Restaurant (dishes US$1-2.50) Just down is essential; it takes an hour and costs US$5. going direct to Monkey Bay. If not, take a aquatic parks in Africa. The park headquarters
the road from Red Zebra Cafe, this has simpler See opposite for transport connections minibus towards Balaka, get off at the Ma- are at Golden Sands Holiday Resort.
surrounds and fare, and its speciality banana to/from Mua. takataka road junction near Mua (look out There’s also a museum, which is well worth
pancakes are excellent. for the craft stalls), then take a matola (US$2) a visit to learn about the formation of the lake
Red Zebra Cafe (breakfast & snacks US$1-3, dishes MONKEY BAY along the Matakataka road to the main road and the evolution of the fish. The information
US$3.50-4; h6am-10.30pm) Little café in a large Monkey Bay is a port at the southern end between Monkey Bay and Mangochi. Another is nontechnical and well presented.
garden by the side of the main rood, 500m of Lake Malawi, which most travellers pass option if you’re in a group is to charter your Near the entrance gate to the Golden Sands,
from the Livingstonia Beach Hotel. It’s deco- through on the way to Cape Maclear. Monkey own matola. a path leads towards the hills overlooking
ὈὈὈ
202 C E N T R A L MA L A W I • • C a p e M a c l e a r lonelyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com C E N T R A L MA L A W I • • C a p e M a c l e a r 203

CAPE MACLEAR 0
0
3 km
2 miles
guides, but before you arrange anything, get behind the village and the beach. You can go other places in Cape Maclear, so it’s ideal for
recommendations from other travellers and alone (see p201) or arrange a guide, either families, drivers and people who don’t want

ὈὈὈ
To Chembe negotiate a price. from the village or at the national park head- to drink and smoke all night.
Fat Monkeys
Eagles Nest (1km)
If you prefer to go snorkelling on your own, quarters at Golden Sands Holiday Resort; the Stevens Resthouse (%01-587541; camping per person
Cape Mac Lodge Lake Malawi many places rent gear (rates start at about park’s rate for a guide is US$9 for a full-day US$0.50, s/d US$4/7; i) Large, simple rooms with
National Park
Gecko Lounge
Setting Sun Bar
Chembe (Cape
US$2 – but check the quality of your mask). trip. The main path starts by the missionary nets are good value, and there are pleasant
Gaia Lodge
Cape Maclear Beach
Maclear Village) Otter Point, less than 1km beyond Golden graves and leads up through woodland to a col camping areas close to the water. The bar and
Zikomo Restaurant
Kayak Africa;
Sands, is a small rocky peninsula and nearby below Nkhunguni Peak, the highest on the Nan- restaurant are close to the beach, although

ὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
Thomas's Grocery Stevens Resthouse;
Restaurant & Bar Scuba Shack
Danforth
islet that is very popular with fish and snorkel- kumba Peninsula, with great views over Cape both have seen kinder days and better mainte-
Yachting lers. You may even see otters here. Maclear, the lake and surrounding islands. It’s nance. There’s a book exchange, though, and
Missionary
Graves
six hours return to the summit; plenty of water an internet café (US$9 an hour).
Golden Sands Holiday Resort;
DIVING and a good sun hat are essential. Fat Monkeys (%09-948501; camping per person US$1,
Museum; Lake Malawi National
Park HQ
0 800 m For diving, go to Scuba Shack (%09-934220; www Another interesting place to visit on foot r with shared bathroom US$5) Almost 1km east of the
0 0.5 miles
.scubashackmalawi.com), based within Stevens Rest- is Mwala Wa Mphini (Rock of the Tribal Face village centre and away from the crowds, this

ὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
To Chipoka house, Kayak Africa (%09-942661; www.kayakafrica Scars), which is just off the main dirt road is a huge camping ground aimed primarily at
Cape .net) or Danforth Yachting (p204). All three into Cape Maclear, about 5km from the park overland trucks and car-campers. It also has
Maclear
offer PADI open-water courses for around headquarters. This huge boulder is covered small and comfortable rooms, good security,
Domwe US$250, as well as casual dives for experienced in lines and patterns that seem to have been showers, and the ubiquitous bar and restau-
Island
divers. Scuba Shack also has an Instructor De- gouged out by long-forgotten artists, but are rant by the water.
To Mumbo
Island (5.8km) Lake velopment Centre (IDC) so you can become simply a natural geological formation. Gaia Lodge (%09-300559, 374631; gaiahouse@mw
Chembe Eagles
Malawi a qualified instructor here. If you want a longer walk, a small lake- .celtelplus.com; camping US$2, dm US$2.50, s/d US$3/6) The
Thumbi
Island
Nest side path leads southwest from Otter Point, rooms are on the small side, but there’s a
West Cape
Maclear KAYAKING through woodland above the shore, for about great, shady waterfront garden, excellent food
Beach Chembe If you prefer to stay on top of the water, Kayak 4km to a small fishing village called Msaka and a supremely chilled-out atmosphere.
Africa has top-of-the-range kayaks (single and (which has a small bar/shop serving cold Chembe Eagles Nest (%09-960628, 966507; www
MALAWI

MALAWI
Otter
Pt
Lake Malawi
National Park
double) suitable for experts or beginners, which drinks). From here a track leads inland (west) .chembenest.com; camping US$6, half-board cottages & safari
See Enlargement
can be hired from around US$12 for a few to meet the main dirt road between Cape tents per person US$60) At the far eastern end of

ὈὈὈ
Zambo Thumbi
Nkhunguni Peak
(1143m)
Mwala
Wa Mphini
Island
East
hours. A day trip with lunch costs from US$50. Maclear and Monkey Bay. Turn left and head Cape Maclear beach, this is about as far from
Dzimwe Peak The best option, if you’ve got the money, is back towards Cape Maclear, passing Mwala the tourist trap as you can get. It’s an idyl-
(962m) to take a guided two- or three-night island- Wa Mphini on the way. The whole circuit is lic spot on a beautiful and very clean broad
Msaka Monkey
Bay hopping trip, using Kayak Africa’s delight- about 16km and takes four to five hours. stretch of private beach, strewn with palm
Nankumba
Peninsula ful camps on Domwe and Mumbo Islands. trees and shaded tables, nestled against the
Kasankha Bay The charge per night is US$150 per person for VOLUNTEERING side of the hills. There are airy thatch and
Mumbo Island and US$130 for Domwe, and Billy Riordan Memorial Trust (www.billysmalawiproject brick rooms with wooden four posters and
includes a tent with mattress and duvet, good .com) was set up in memory of a young man, spacious verandas. There’s a catamaran for
To
Kasankha One Stop
Junction
Mangochi meals, hot showers, snorkel gear and park fees. Billy Riordan, who sadly drowned in the lake hire ($35 per person for a full day including
(71km)
Anyone who’s done this trip raves about it. in 1999. The trust provides medical care in the lunch), and a swimming pool is being built.
area and is currently working on establishing Gecko Lounge (%09-833856; kite@africa-online.net;
the bay. A few hundred metres up here is a BOAT CRUISES an HIV/AIDS treatment centre. The trust dm US$10, d US$40) From the beach, you can’t miss
small group of missionary graves, marking the Yet another option is sailing on a yacht with needs medical volunteers (doctors, nurses, this place – with its bright orange building
last resting place of the missionaries who an outfit called Danforth Yachting (%09-960077; lab technicians) as well as builders, electri- and excessively manicured lawns. It’s a good
attempted to establish the first Livingstonia www.danforthyachting.com). A sunset cruise around cians and carpenters. Work in administration, bet for families and groups, with spacious
Mission here in 1875 (see p159 and p179). Cape Maclear aboard the Mufasa costs US$25 agriculture and horticulture is also available. cottages with self-catering facilities that sleep
per person (minimum six people required); They prefer volunteers who can commit for up to four people. The dorm, while more ex-
Activities a full-day island-hopping cruise costs US$75 a minimum of three months. pensive than most, is also a good deal nicer,
SNORKELLING per person (minimum four people), including and the food is top-notch; the menus change
Guides registered with the Chembe Village lunch; and an overnight cruise including all Sleeping daily.
Tourist Association can organise day trips meals as well as snorkelling and fishing equip- Golden Sands Holiday Resort (camping per person Cape Mac Lodge (%09-966520; rogerl@africaonline
to nearby islands for about US$10 to US$40 ment costs US$150 per person (minimum US$0.50, 1-/2-/3-person rondavels US$1/1.50/2) At the .net; s/d/f US$65/85/90) Has dark pink thatch build-
per boat, plus around US$15 per person, in- four people). The owners also have exquisite far western end of the beach. This is also Lake ings, manicured lawns and well-appointed
cluding snorkelling and lunch (fish and rice accommodation (see p204). Malawi National Park headquarters, and as it’s rooms with fans, large, plush bathrooms and
cooked on an open fire). If you want to stretch inside the park you have to pay fees (see p166). cool tile floors. All rooms have large veran-
this out into a night or two on the islands, the HIKING It offers camping and basic, small rondavels. das with great views of the lake. It also has a
cost is US$25/45 for one/two days, including There’s a good range of hikes and walks in the The beach here is cleaner and the atmos- restaurant, Froggies, which serves excellent
tents. Your lodge can put you in contact with hills that form a horseshoe around the plain phere is generally much quieter than some French cuisine.
 204 C E N T R A L MA L A W I • • M o n k e y B a y t o M a n g o c h i Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com C E N T R A L MA L A W I • • M a n g o c h i 205

Danforth Yachting (%09-960077; danforth@malawi could now do with a lick of paint, but it’s a flights to/from Blantyre and Lilongwe (see OK Restaurant & Resthouse (r with shared bathroom
.net; full-board r per person US$150) About 500m to- friendly and pleasant spot with loads of space p233). Based at the club, Scuba Blue offers US$2.50; a) Near the main minibus station
wards the village, this is by far the swankiest and lush green lawns for camping. The res- beginner courses for around US$250. Paradise and market, off the main road through town,
place on the cape. Plush and pristine rooms taurant (breakfasts US$1.50, dishes US$1.25 Watersports offers fishing, boat trips to the it only has single rooms, but they’re clean and
sleep up to four people, and rates include use to US$4.50) serves fish, steaks, burgers, cur- islands, and water-skiing. cosy and have fans or air-con. The attached
of all equipment and activities (including ries, pasta and good vegetarian dishes. This restaurant serves cheap and filling meals.
cruises). There’s also a bar, restaurant and place is quiet during the week, but livelier at MANGOCHI Mangochi Lodge (r with shared bathroom US$4.50)
outdoor lounge area in front of a stretch of weekends when people come from Blantyre Mangochi lies near the southern end of Lake Near the clock tower, this place is friendly
rich grass with prime views of the lake. and Lilongwe for boating and fishing. Malawi, strung out between the main lake- and offers a few comfortable bedrooms with
Boadzulu Lakeshore Resort (%01-594725; camp- shore road and the Shire River. This place nets and fans.
Eating & Drinking ing US$2.50, walk-in tent s/d US$5/7.50, s/d from US$36/54, was once an important slave market, and Mangochi Holiday Motel (%01-594789; s/d with
Zikomo Restaurant (breakfast $1.20, dishes from US$1) family chalets US$68) About 10km further south then an administrative centre in colonial shared bathroom US$5/7, s/d US$7.50/10) Larger than
Serves good breakfasts and stews in a sandy from Club Makokola, this is a smart, spa- days, when it was known as Fort Johnston. Mangochi Lodge, this place offers simple,
courtyard setting off the main drag. cious resort and great value for all budgets. Relics of these times within the wide, tree- clean rooms, a cheap restaurant, big bar and
Thomas’s Grocery Restaurant and Bar (dishes US$2) The comfortable rooms here come with fans lined streets include a large mosque and the good bakery.
This is a great local eatery if you want to leave and nets, and for a little extra you can go Queen Victoria clock tower. Even today the Mangochi Icecream Den & Restaurant (dishes
the confines of your lodge. Meals are filling, up in standard to include a TV, lounge and town has a vaguely Swahili feel, with palm US$1.25-6) On the highway, it has tranquil out-
tasty and predictable (although they do serve fridge. The restaurant is good, the bar is on trees, Arab-looking people and coconuts for door tables amid leafy gardens. Its eclectic
spaghetti and Indian chapatis), and the out- the beach and, if you’re feeling adventurous, sale in the street. The Shire Bridge is scenic, menu includes Malawian dishes, steaks, cur-
door bench seating is the perfect spot to watch a boat accommodating up to 45 people can and the excellent Lake Malawi Museum (admission ries, burgers, fish and, of course, ice cream.
the village operate around you. be hired to go to nearby Boadzulu Island for US$0.80; h7.30am-5pm) houses ethnographic,
The Setting Sun Bar is a lively, loud, mural- around US$100. environmental and historical exhibits. There’s Getting There & Away
adorned bar on the waterfront. It’s the most OK Lake Shore Hotel (r US$7) This place is 1.5km also a replica of the foredeck and bridge of All buses between Blantyre and Monkey Bay
popular bar in town and a good place to chat off the main road, and is Malawian-run and a HMS Guendolin (see the boxed text, below). stop in Mangochi. There are minibuses to/
with the locals, although it can get a little good, quiet, budget option. Basic rooms have Facilities include several shops, supermarkets, from Liwonde (US$1.20), Zomba (US$2) and
MALAWI

MALAWI
raucous. nets and, although meals aren’t available, you a post office and banks. Blantyre (US$2.50). To get to Liwonde Na-
can make use of the kitchen and the chef. tional Park take a matola to Ulongwe (US$1).
Getting There & Away Nkopola Lodge (%01-580444; nkopola@sunbirdmalawi Sleeping & Eating You can get a matola to the border town of
By public transport, first get to Monkey Bay, .com; camping US$12, walk-in tents US$18, r from US$60, The hospitality industry hasn’t really taken Chiponde (US$3) if you’re heading to Mozam-
from where a matola should cost US$1 (see chalets US$72) Just 1km down the road from off in Mangochi but there’s a few cheap bique (for border crossing information, see
p201 for more details). If you’re driving from Boadzulu Lakeshore Resort, this is another options. p232).
Mangochi, the dirt road to Cape Maclear top-end establishment. Cool and unfussy
(signposted) turns west off the main road, rooms in well-kept gardens overlook a beach,
about 5km before Monkey Bay. Be warned, while the camping area, set further back, has HMS GUENDOLIN
however: it’s a bumpy ride and unless you’re spotless ablution blocks. Room rates include HMS Guendolin was a military boat, made in Britain and assembled in Mangochi in 1899. At 340
in a 4WD or high-clearance vehicle, it’ll be breakfast, and the restaurant (dishes US$5 tonnes, it was for many years the largest boat on the lake and had a top speed of 12 knots. It
slow going. to US$8, weekend buffet US$12) serves suit- also had two powerful guns on board. Such a show of strength was thought necessary by the
From Cape Maclear, if you’re heading for ably delectable fare. Sailboards, canoes and colonial authorities in order to deter slave-traders, who crossed the lake in dhows with their
Senga Bay, ask at the dive schools about char- small sailing boats are free for guests’ use; human cargo, but also because colonial rivals Germany and Portugal had territory facing Lake
tering a boat. It will cost around US$100, but motorboats cost US$7.50 per person per hour Malawi and were believed to want to increase their influence in the region.
it’s not bad when split between four to six and paddle boats US$2.50. More-questionable The Germans also had a gunboat, called Herman von Wissemann, but despite the friction be-
people and much better than the long, hard attractions include a bird sanctuary, petting tween their two governments, the captains of the two ships were apparently great friends, and
bus ride. zoo and casino. would often meet at various points around the lake to drink beer and shoot the breeze.
Club Makokola (%01-580244/445; www.clubmak When WWI was declared in 1914, the Guendolin was ordered to destroy the German boat. The
MONKEY BAY TO MANGOCHI .com; s/d from US$103/165; s) About 50km from British captain knew where the von Wissemann would be, as he and the German captain had
From Monkey Bay the main road runs south Monkey Bay, Club Mak (as it’s known) is a previously arranged a rendezvous.
to Mangochi. Along this stretch of lake are luxury holiday resort, with nicely decorated But the German captain wasn’t aware that war had erupted, and his ship was completely
several places to stay, catering for all tastes chalets and rooms (the newer bush-style ones unprepared. The Guendolin steamed in close, then bombed the von Wissemann and rendered it
and budgets. are better than the original ones), two swim- unusable. The German captain and crew were then informed of the commencement of hostilities
Palm Beach Leisure Resort (%09-943050; www ming pools, restaurants, bars, water sports, and taken prisoner. This rather unsporting event happened to be the first British naval victory of
.palmbeach-mw.com; camping per person US$2, s/d from floodlit football fields, squash, tennis and WWI and Lake Malawi’s only recorded battle at sea.
US$15/25) North of Mangochi, this was once a volleyball courts, and a long strip of private In 1940 the Guendolin was converted to a passenger ship, and one of the guns was set up as
smart resort on a beautiful beach surrounded beachfront. Rates include full buffet breakfast, a memorial in Mangochi, near the clock tower. Some years later the ship was scrapped. All that
by (not surprisingly) a grove of palm trees. and a three-course meal costs US$15. It has its remains today is the gun, and the compass and the ship’s bell are on display at the museum.
Its large thatched chalets with nets and fans own airport, which is served by Air Malawi
 206 S O U T H E R N MA L A W I • • L i w o n d e Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N MA L A W I 207

SOUTHERN MALAWI large international standard complex has the

air of a tropical resort. The rooms overlook ex-
SOUTHERN MALAWI 0
0
50 km
30 miles

ὈὈ
To Lilongwe To Salima (50km) To Monkey To Cuamba
tensive flower-filled gardens that lead down to (100km)
Dedza
& Lilongwe (155km) Bay (68km)
Lake
Malawi (130km)

Malawi’s Southern Province, with Blantyre the river, there’s a gazebo for sundowners, boat Masasa
Namwera Mandimba
Golomoti
roughly at its centre, lies between the southern trips into the park can be arranged and there’s a Lizulu
Mangochi
Chiponde
Lake
end of Lake Malawi and the far southern tip kids’ playground complete with bouncy castle Mt Chirobwe
Amaramba
(2023m)
of the country. Places are described roughly and trampoline. Mkungulu Lake
north to south. Ulongue Fort
Malanguene
Malombe

It’s the most developed and densely popu- LIWONDE NATIONAL PARK See Enlargement
lated area of Malawi and the best place for Liwonde National Park is the closest thing Ntcheu
M
3
hiking – Malawi’s highest peak, the mist- Malawi has to a traditional game park. Domin- M Ulongwe
Lake
Chiuta
1
shrouded Mount Mulanje, lies to the south- ating the west, the Shire River overflows with Liwonde
east. It’s also home to the Liwonde National hippos and crocodiles and is a favourite stomp- Balaka National Nayuchi

ὅὅὅ
Bawi Park Entre Lagos
M
Park, famous for its hippo and croc-spotting ing ground for the abundant elephants. Water- MOZAMBIQUE
8

Ὀ
Liwonde
river safaris. bucks are also common near the water, while To

ὅὅὅ
Cuamba

er
beautiful sable and roan antelopes, zebras Machinga (55km)

iv
eR
LIWONDE and elands populate the surreal flood plains

ir
Sh
Domasi
You may visit Liwonde town if you’re heading in the east. Night drives can reveal spotted Zomba

r
Rive
Matope Plateau
M Lake
for Liwonde National Park or for Mozam- genets, bushbabies, scrub hares, side-striped Zalewa Zomba
3 Chilwa

zi
bique by train. The Shire River divides the jackals and even spotted hyenas. Seven (shy!)

mad
Kachulu
M Mikuyu

er
Namikango

Mkuru
ὈὈ
Ὀ
1
town; on the more pleasant eastern side are black rhinos are protected within a separate

Riv
M
6
re Mwinje Jali Rv
i be
the train station, the market, a supermarket enclosure, and there’s a rich and colourful Sh (1458m)
lom
Zóbuè Chileka Pha
and several shops. array of bird life. From October to January is Mwanza (Blantyre)
Airport
Magornero
Namaka
Waterline River Safaris (%01-542552, 542832; particularly good for bird-watching, as migrat-
Mpatamanga
colin_sue@malawi.net) operates wildlife-viewing ory birds, including Bohms bee-eaters, set up Majete Gorge
MALAWI

MALAWI
Chiradzulu
Wildlife Reserve Mchese
boat trips for around US$15 per person per summer camp. Mt Michiru Blantyre
(1473m) Limbe
(2289m)
To Tete (75km); Phalombe
hour (the price decreases with more pas- One of the real pleasures of a trip to Li- Mkurumadzi Camp

ὈὈὈὈὈ
Harare (540km) Kapichira
Falls M n je
sengers). This is also a viable way to access wonde is canoeing on the river, the water Kapichira Dam 1 ul a
Park Shire t M
Mikolongo Majete Gate un Sapitwa Peak
Mvuu Camp (p208) in Liwonde National dotted with purple lilies and statuesque palms Highlands

o
Safari Camp (3001m)

M
M Chikwawa
wa Mulanje
Park, with one-way/return transfers costing framing the hills behind. Morning or evening, nj Timbenao
Thabwa

ὅὅὅ
M Luchenza
aR

Th
Thyolo 2
from US$32/42. you’re virtually guaranteed to see hippos and Sugar Muloza

yo
ive
River

lo
r Plantations
Milange
likely to see crocodiles, fish eagles and a whole

ὅὅὅ

Es
Sucoma
Lengwe uo

car
Estate R
Sleeping host of other water birds. National Park

pm
Nchalo

ὈὈ
ent
7
Warthogs Wallow (%01-542426; camping US$1.50, s/d

ὅὅὅ
Tourism in the park revolves around Mvuu
US$10/20) Has seen better days. The stone ron- Camp (p208). If you have your own 4WD or Elephant
To Mocuba (130km);
Quelimane (260km)

ὅὅὅ
M Marsh
davels are run down and the grounds over- high-clearance vehicle you can tour the park’s 1 Ma
N'gabu san 0 5 km
grown. There’s a small, sad-looking pool, but network of tracks (although they close in the Mchacha Lake ge 0 3 miles
Liciro

ὅὅ
James Malombe Rv
on the plus side there’s a raised turret-style wet season and vary from year to year, so Sorgin Makhanga
Chiromo Namiya
la Rv
chill-out area for hippo spotting. check the situation with the camp). Alterna- Zambe Dande
Bangula
Eastern

ὈὈ
Town Council Resthouse (s/d US$3) Just down the tively, game drives can be arranged at Mvuu zi Marsh
Staff Camp Li kuzi Rv
Mwavbi

Shi
road from the Liwonde Park Motel, next to the Camp. To enter the rhino sanctuary costs an Ri
ve Camp Mwabvi
ga
i Rv

re River
Wildlife Reserve an 4WD only
Peoples Supermarket. Very clean and simple. extra US$2 (the money goes directly to this r Airstrip Nt
Park
Liwonde Park Motel (%01-542338; s/d US$20/30) project). If you can’t stay in the park, Wa- Gate
Mvuu Wilderness Lodge
Mvuu Camp
Neat and well-presented rooms, some with terline River Safaris (left), based in Liwonde, il l s
Nsanje Car Parking uH
sofas, are decent value, and are set around a operates wildlife-viewing boat trips along the MOZAMBIQUE ul
& Flag for Boat Na
na fi

Na
M nda
leafy courtyard with a restaurant and bar. Shire River.

ὈὈ
nje Rv

Rv
Lulwe 1
Sun Village Lodge (%01-542330; s/d US$21/40) Mwa
l as

ire
Marka
Large rooms with fans, high ceilings and Sleeping Chemba
Vila Nova i R

Sh
da Fronteira

v
spotlessly clean shower rooms open onto a Places to stay in Liwonde remain open all Liwonde
National Park
pleasant garden square; opposite the National year – you can reach them by boat even if rain 213
Chiunguni
Bank. closes some of the park tracks. See the map on Nhamalabue
Hills Mbawala
Kadungusi
Nanyani
Lodge
Hippo View Lodge (%01-542822, 542255; www p207 for locations of the following. Vila de Mutarara
Waterline Chiunguni Hill
Sena
.hip poviewlodge.com; s/d from US$35/50) Turn right Chinguni Hills Lodge (%08-838159; www.chinguni Park
Liwonde Gate
down the dirt road just before the National .com; camping US$5, dm per person from US$10, r per person To Beira Likwena River
Bank and it’s about 1km down the road. This from US$15) In the south of the park, this place (410km)
 208 S O U T H E R N MA L A W I • • Z o m b a lonelyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N MA L A W I • • Z o m b a 209

has very accommodating rooms, and the here. From the gate to Mvuu Camp is 28km ZOMBA 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
friendly host is a walking wealth of informa- along the park track (closed in the wet sea- To Janet's
tion on the park’s flora and fauna. Delicious, son), and a 4WD or high-clearance vehicle is A B C D House (1.3km)
To Annie's Lodge (300m);
home-cooked meals are taken en famille and recommended for this route. INFORMATION Old Parliament Building (450m);
Hotel Masongola (375m)
First Merchant Bank.................1 B2
at night guests gather to chat in the lantern- Another way in for vehicles is via the dirt MENA......................................2 B3
and candle-lit lounge; or there’s a private road (open all year) from Ulongwe, a vil-

Chim
Metro Cash & Carry.................3 B2

Liv
1 Rd

i
ja

ng
MNational Bank..........................4 C2
an
nook behind the fireplace if you’re feeling lage between Liwonde town and Mangochi.

bay

sto
ou Rd
Pharmacy................................. 5 B3 ns
n t a in

ne
ga
CCAP Mission

a R
unsociable. Walking and canoeing safaris are This leads for 14km through local villages Shoprite...................................6 C3

an

Rd
School

d
Stanbic Bank............................7 B2
US$12.50 per person and night drives are to the western boundary. A few kilometres
US$15. It also has a camp site, a few minutes’ inside the park is a car park and boat jetty,
walk away, with dorms, tented rooms and where a watchman hoists a flag to arrange a Police To Lilongwe
(300km)
fantastic views over the park. boat from Mvuu Camp to come and collect

Rd
To Zomba Golf CCAP Church
Plateau

od
Mvuu Camp (camping per person US$5, accommodation- you. This service is free if you’re staying at (5km) Course y

le
w

ac

Ch
State H
only/full-board chalets per person US$35/140) Managed the camp.

M
u

iru
House uz

ng
M
2 Grounds am

a
by Wilderness Safaris (p170) in Lilongwe, Alternatively, if you make a booking in

ku
K

Rd
lic
hi
this camp is deep in the northern part of the advance for Mvuu Camp through Wilderness Rd
11 M
po
nd
park on the banks of the river. Stone chalets Safaris in Lilongwe (see p170), the camp can 1
a St
re
am
13
have tented roofs, lavish interiors and ve- arrange a boat transfer from Liwonde town 4

Mac le od
randas overlooking the river, and the small for US$20 per person (it’s half price if you’re 3 7 SLEEPING
Municipality of Zomba
5
but accommodating camp site has spotless paying full-board at the camp). Resthouse............................8 B3

Rd
ablution blocks and self-catering facilities, For those without wheels, the best option Mosque 2 Ndindeya Motel.......................9 B3

including utensils. Alternatively, you can eat is to get any bus or minibus between Liwonde EATING
Chip Stalls..............................10 B3
at the open-plan thatched restaurant; the food town and Mangochi and get off at Ulongwe Hw
y Market 6 Gulnoor Restaurant &
3 u d
is excellent. There’s also a bar and lounge area (make sure you say this clearly, otherwise the Ka
m uz
Ma rke
t R 10 Takeaway..........................11 C2
John Chilembwe House..........12 B3
with wide lake views. Full-board rates include driver will think you want to go to Lilongwe). 8 Na
MALAWI

mi

MALAWI
wa Zomba Gymkhana Club.........13 B2
two wildlife activities, and children between In Ulongwe local boys wait by the bus stop 14 wa
Rd
12 TRANSPORT
four and 12 are charged half price, but those and will take you by bicycle to the park gate To Limbe (68km); 9 Bus Station.............................14 B3
Blantyre (75km)
under six are not allowed on wildlife-viewing (US$2) or all the way to the boat jetty (US$3).
trips. If you’ve got a lot of luggage there may be an
Njobvu Cultural Village (full-board huts per person extra charge or you may need two bikes. The Information Annie’s Lodge (Map p211; %01-527002; Livingstone
US$50) This village is actually 6km from the ride takes about an hour, and you should leave Internet access is available at MENA (per hr US$12; Rd; r from US$35) North of the town centre, it’s a
western boundary of Liwonde National Park with plenty of time before dusk; otherwise h8am-5pm Mon-Sat), off Namiwawa Rd. There rambling old place made up of colonial-style
and offers visitors a rare opportunity to stay you may encounter elephants, and either way are Stanbic, National and First Merchant buildings with wide verandas. The rooms
in a traditional Malawian village. The experi- your cyclist will demand extra money for the Banks in the town. are great value and incredibly spacious, and
ence includes dancing and crafts displays and trouble. For supplies, there’s a Shoprite and a Metro there’s a very nice rondavel bar. There’s not a
allows you to participate in the daily activities Another option is the boat transfer service Cash and Carry. great deal of difference between the standard
of village life. All proceeds go directly to the along the Shire River offered by Waterline and executive level rooms, so plump for a
community; you can book at Mvuu Camp or River Safaris (p206). Approaching Mvuu by Sleeping cheaper one.
through Wilderness Safaris (p170). river is very enjoyable; along the way you’re Municipality of Zomba Resthouse (r with shared bath- Hotel Masongola (Map p211; %01-524688; Living-
Mvuu Wilderness Lodge (full-board chalets per per- likely to see elephants and certain to see some room US$2, d US$3) If you arrive at the bus station stone Rd; hotelmasongola@clcom.net; s/d from US$40/75)
son US$240; s) A short distance upriver from hippos. late at night, strapped for cash and unable to At the top of the hill and price scale. This
Mvuu Camp (and also managed by Central walk more than a few metres, then this is the was the house of the first colonial governor.
African Wilderness Safaris), this lodge has ZOMBA place to come. Otherwise it might be wise to Rates include breakfast. The older rooms
large luxury double tents with private balco- Zomba was the capital of Malawi until the give it a miss. While the rooms are dirt cheap, are in the brick bungalows out the back, and
nies overlooking a water hole where wildlife mid-1970s and it’s still a large, busy place. they’re not the cleanest. rooms in the garden are more expensive and
and birds are active. There’s a maximum of 10 It’s not as friendly as Blantyre or Lilongwe, Ndindeya Motel (%08-855700, 385540; s/d with pri- modern. The real attraction here is the pleas-
guests, so this place is relaxed and intimate, though; the town centre is dirtier and you’re vate bathroom US$4/8) A good budget option. The ant beer garden on the private lawns and the
with attentive staff and excellent food. There’s likely to receive more hassle here than in the rooms are large and all rates include breakfast. restaurant (dishes US$5 to US$10), which
also a small swimming pool. Rates includes large towns further north. The downside is that it’s next door to a bar, serves rare treats including guinea fowl, and
park fees and all wildlife drives, boat rides, Overshadowing the town, though, is the which is very noisy even during the day. fillet steak.
bird walks etc. serenely beautiful Zomba Plateau, and a walk Janet’s House (%01-542708; Mulunguzi Rd; s/d with
through the suburbs in the lush and peaceful shared bathroom from US$20/25, d US$38) A friendly Eating & Drinking
Getting There & Away foothills reveals the faded but still impres- Malawian B&B with a healthy resident dog and John Chilembwe House (dishes US$1.50; h11am-late) A
The main park gate is 6km east of Liwonde sive old Parliament Building – a reminder of cat population. There are only three rooms and very lively restaurant and bar, near the main
town. There’s no public transport beyond Zomba’s historical importance. the largest is absolutely charming. bus station, selling cheap beer and Malawi
 210 S O U T H E R N MA L A W I • • Z o m b a P l a t e a u lonelyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N MA L A W I • • Z o m b a P l a t e a u 211

dishes. It’s a good place to strike up a conver- from Mandala Falls, through some beautiful ZOMBA PLATEAU (SOUTHERN SECTION) 0
0 1 mile
2 km

sation with the locals. indigenous forest and a trout farm, to Williams
Zomba Gymkhana Club (%01-527818; Mkulichi Falls, another fairly impressive cascade. A B C D
Walking Trail to Malosa
Rd; dishes US$1.50-3, 2-/3-course buffet lunch US$4/7.50; A popular place to visit is Chingwe’s Hole, (Northern Section
of Zomba Plateau)
hlunch & dinner) Another colonial relic, this on the western side of the plateau, suppos- Kasonga
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Chingwe's Hole.....................1 A2
place offers good curries, stews, and fish and edly bottomless and the basis of various local 1 om
asi River Emperor's View......................2 C3
Malonga D Mandala Falls.........................3 B3
chicken dishes in pleasant surroundings. legends, although now overgrown and not Domasi Valley
Model Hut.............................4 B3
Nonmembers need to pay US$0.70 entry. especially impressive. Nearby, however, is a Queen's View........................5 C3
Williams Falls.........................6 B3
Gulnoor Restaurant & Take Away (dishes US$2-4; splendid viewpoint, looking westward over
hbreakfast & lunch Mon-Sat) Specialises in Pakistani the Shire Valley. SLEEPING
Annie's Lodge....................... 7 C4
curries and also does Malawian food. Chambo For even more impressive views, head for Indigenous Forest Chitinji Campsite...................8 A2
& Nature Trail New Ngondola
marinated in chillies and yoghurt, balti and the eastern side of the plateau, where Queen’s Old Ngondola Forestry Village
Forest Campsite.....................9 B3
Hotel Masongola.................10 C4
shish kebabs are on offer. View (named after Queen Elizabeth, wife of Village Ku Chawe Inn......................11 B3
There are several cheap roadside cafés King George VI, who visited Zomba in 1957) 1 Ou
ter Circular D
Trout Farm...........................12
Zomba Forest Lodge............13
B3
A3

h
outside the bus station where you can pick and Emperor’s View (after Emperor Haile Selas- 2 r

Pat
ὅὅ
Chiradzulu
up dishes of nsima and meat for around sie of Ethiopia, who visited in 1964) overlook Peak

Po tato
US$0.80. Zomba town and out towards Mulanje.

ὅὅ

Rd
Mulunguzi
Potato uzi Marsh
ng River
8 ulu
Getting There & Away Path

try
HIKING M Songani

es
Out Lookout

r
6

Fo
Zomba is on a main route between Lilongwe The southern half of the plateau is ideal for Williams

er
Falls Circula

Old
Dr
and Blantyre. Express buses run to/from hiking. The network of tracks and paths can Malumbe Peak
(2085m) Forestry
r 2
Chagwa
Zomba and Lilongwe (US$3.50, six hours, be confusing, though, so for more help with Houses
Peak Chagwa
Dam
5

one daily), Blantyre (US$1.80, one hour, one orientation, there’s a 3-D map of the plateau 12 Mulunguzi
daily) and Liwonde (US$1, 45 minutes, three in the Model Hut. 3 Mandala Peak
13 Falls
daily). Minibuses go every hour or so to Limbe For detailed information on hiking routes 9
MALAWI

MALAWI
Mulunguzi
3
(US$1). on the southern half of the plateau, A Guide to Skyline
Dam
M
View
Zomba Plateau (US$2) is a single-sheet map Nawimbe Peak
4 11
ul

un
ZOMBA PLATEAU with information on the back, including sev-

gu
zi Old Naisi

to
Rd
Rd Old Naisi

Path
Pota
d
Zomba Plateau is divided into two halves by eral suggested hiking routes, produced by the

Ri
Up n R Old

ver
ow

Old Naisi Rd
Parliament To Lilongwe
the Domasi Valley. The southern half has a Wildlife Society. It’s available in Blantyre and D
Building 10
(295km)
Wico
road to the top, a hotel (the landmark Ku at the Ku Chawe Inn (p212). For more infor- Sawmill
7
See Zomba Map (p209)
Chawe Inn), a camping ground, several picnic mation still, the Zomba Plateau is covered in
places and a network of driveable tracks and Lonely Planet’s Trekking in East Africa. 4 M
y 3
Hw
hiking paths that wind through pine forest Keen hikers may find the northern half of u zu
Kam Zomba
or patches of indigenous woodland. There the plateau more interesting. There are few
are several narrow ridges along the edge of tracks here, and no pine plantation – the To Limbe (68km);
Blantyre (75km)
the escarpment, with viewpoints overlooking landscape is similar to that of Mt Mulanje and
the plains below. The plateau also has streams, Nyika Plateau. For advice on hiking on the
waterfalls and a couple of lakes, where fish- northern plateau, contact Chitinji Campsite on the road up to the plateau about 2km Allow two to three hours for the ascent, and
ing is allowed. Some people prefer to drive (opposite). from Zomba town. The path climbs steeply about 1½ hours coming down.
around, but Zomba is a good place for hiking. It’s recommended either to walk in a group through woodland to reach the plateau near
The cool air makes a welcome change from or to use a guide when hiking as there have Ku Chawe Inn. Sleeping & Eating
the heat of the lowland areas. been several robberies on the plateau in recent From near Ku Chawe Inn, the Potato Path If you’re camping, you should bring most of
Note that some travellers have reported years. There are guides registered with the then goes straight across the southern half what you need from Zomba town, as there’s
being hassled by ‘ruffians’ when hiking on the Ministry of Forestry, Fisheries and Environ- of the plateau, sometimes using the park no shop on the plateau, although there are
plateau. Locals say these are outsiders rather mental Affairs based at the Model Hut, who tracks, sometimes using narrow short cuts, a local-style tearoom and some stalls sell-
than people from Zomba. To avoid trouble, charge around US$20 per day, although the and leads eventually to Old Ngondola Village, ing fruit, vegetables and (sometimes) bread
it’s recommended to arrange a guide with the rate is open to negotiation as there’s no set from where it descends quite steeply into the between the Ku Chawe Inn and the Forest
forest officer stationed at the Model Hut. price. More expensive guides are also available Domasi Valley. Campsite.
from Ku Chawe Inn. The Domasi Valley is well known for its Chitinji Campsite (admission US$0.80; camping per person
Sights & Activities fertile soil, plentiful water and good farming US$2.50, basic r per person US$5) Near Malumbe Peak
A few kilometres from Ku Chawe Inn are Potato Path conditions, so here the local people grow in the west, this is an excellent place to stay,
Mandala Falls, not as impressive as they used to You can hike all the way from Zomba town vegetables (especially potatoes) and take them although even more likely to be shrouded in
be since Mlunguzi Dam was significantly en- to the plateau via a direct route called the along the Potato Path (hence the name) down mist. The owner can advise on hikes in the
larged in 1999. A nature trail leads upstream Potato Path, signposted at a sharp bend to Zomba town to sell in the market. surrounding area, and is especially keen to
 ὈὈὈὈ
212 S O U T H E R N MA L A W I • • B l a n t y re & L i m b e Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N MA L A W I • • B l a n t y re & L i m b e 213

help people who want to explore the wilderness much. It stretches for about 20km, merging GREATER BLANTYRE & LIMBE 0
0 1 mile
2 km

zone on the northern section of the plateau. into Limbe, its ‘sister city’, and during the

Ὀ ὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
A B C Some Minor Roads Not Depicted D
Forest Campsite (camping per person US$1) An aptly week the city centre is a hive of energy. Most M
1
To Blantyre (Chileka) Airport
named spot with toilets and wood-fired hot travellers stop only for a few days to send or (15km); Mwanza (120km);
Lilongwe (310km)
INFORMATION
Canadian Consulate...................1 D2

ka Rd
showers all among large pine trees. It’s one of receive mail, buy maps and books or pick up Central Bookshop..................(see 10)

New

Ring Rd
those places that is beautiful in sunlight and a visa for Mozambique. This is probably long 1 Mozambique Consulate.............2 D2

e
Chil
Queen Elizabeth Central

Ch
a bit miserable in mist (you’ve got a 50:50 enough to exploit some interesting sights, the Blantyre

ile
Hospital..................................3 B2

Old
Main Bus e

ka
nd Wildlife Society of Malawi
chance). most global selection of cuisine in Malawi, Station

Rd
ira

ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈ
Nd Ndirande Giftshop................................ 4 D3
Trout Farm (r per person US$8) The owner of the several enjoyable bars, and a fair selection of Blantyre Blantyre Train
Station
M
ak Gomani Rd
at
Forest Reserve
a 5 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Chitinji Campsite has also taken over the places to stay. (Unless stated otherwise, every M
ud Rv

Rd
i Carlsberg Brewery......................5 C1
running of this place. address in this section is in Blantyre, rather National Museum......................6 C2
Coronation Dam
Zomba Forest Lodge (%09-926122; landlake@africa than Limbe.) SLEEPING
See Blantyre City Centre Map (p215)
-online.net; s/d US$30/50, full-board s/d US$40/65) On the Limbe Country Club...................7 D3

western slopes of the plateau, 6km by winding Orientation EATING

ὈὈὈ
Rd
dirt road past the entrance gate to the plateau. Despite the sprawling suburbs and townships 2 Ali Hassan Mwinyi
Rd Shoprite.................................(see 10)

m Chissano

ri a Ave
This is the former Kachere Forest Resthouse, surrounding Blantyre, the city centre is very Kamuzu Hwy 8
Hynde Rd
Hynde
Dam
which was renovated a few years ago, and has compact, with most places of importance to Mahatma 10

Vic to
Lesli
e Rd Gandhi Rd 11 1 2 Tsiranana
a kitchen for self-catering and comfortable travellers within easy walking distance. Cen-

Rd
Kas6 M Rd M

Joachi
3
9 ung 2 3

Cres
Moi
u
rooms; rates include breakfast. You can get tral Blantyre’s main street is Victoria Ave; i Rv ta Dr
To Zomba (68km);
Cathedral of aper Liwonde (93km)
N Ken yat Rayner Ave

a Rd
more info from Land & Lake Safaris (p170). along here are several large shops, the tourist St Montfort
Limbe

waw
Ku Chawe Inn (%01-514237; superior/deluxe r

ὈὈὈ
office, the map sales office, banks, foreign M d
4
To Sunnyside (Suburb) (500m); ENTERTAINMENT 2 ill R

Chik
US$80/110) This is like a small palace, built right exchange bureaus and travel agents. To the rch

Rd
Chikwawa (43km)

Rd
Chi ta wi ra Chichiri Stadium.........................8 C2 Chu
a
ch
on the edge of the escarpment with excel- east is Haile Selassie Rd, which contains many

Livin Churchill Rd
French CulturalwaCentre............... 9 C2

gstone Ave
K
12 Limbe Train
lent views and spacious rooms with fireplaces smaller shops. At the northern end of Victoria 3 Rv Station
SHOPPING Da

Ka

Dr
a d
al aR
lto
to keep you warm on those chilly mountain Ave is the landmark Mount Soche Hotel.

pe
l Chichiri Shopping Centre.........10 C2 r n Rd
ba gw Pionee

ni
MALAWI

MALAWI
am am

Rd
l
nights. There’s a good restaurant (buffet East of the Mount Soche Hotel is a major Ma Zin
gw TRANSPORT
Ceciliana Car Hire....................11 C2
breakfast US$6.50, dishes US$9) and the ter- traffic roundabout, from where the main Chimwankhunda
Dam Limbe Bus Station....................12 D3 To Thyolo (30km);
7

raced gardens are particularly pleasant. Non- road north leads to the airport, Mwanza and Mulanje (85km)

residents can drink in the bar or dine here. Lilongwe. This road has no official name but
is known as New Chileka Rd. approximately TBS bookshop (Map p215; Victoria Ave) There’s a TBS Mwaiwathu Private Hospital (Map p215; %01-
Getting There & Away 500m further east is another roundabout, bookshop in town and a smaller one at the Mount Soche 622999; Chileka Rd; h24hr) For private medical
A sealed road leads steeply up the escarpment with a small clock on a concrete pedestal Hotel. consultations or blood tests, this hospital, east of the city
from Zomba town to the top of the plateau in the middle: from here Chileka Rd leads Wildlife Society of Malawi giftshop (Map p213; centre, is good. A consultation is US$10; all drugs and
(about 8km). After the entrance gate, a two- north to the bus station and outer suburbs; Churchill Rd, Limbe) At the Heritage Centre. Specialises in treatment are extra. An overnight stay in a private ward
way sealed road, known as the Down Rd, veers and Chipembere Highway, heading south, books about natural history and national parks; its prices is US$80 – before any treatment, you must put down a
east and continues for another 2km, before turns into the Kamuzu Highway, which veers are very reasonable. US$220 deposit.
turning to a dirt track. There is also an Up Rd, east towards Limbe, and ultimately Zomba, Queen Elizabeth Central Hospital (Map p213;
but this is now open only to walkers. Mulanje and Liwonde. EMERGENCY %01-674333; h24hr) The Malaria Test Centre at
There’s no bus up to the plateau, but local The advice in Blantyre is the same as for this government-run hospital, off Chipembere Highway,
people hitch by the junction on the main street MAPS Lilongwe; see p168. charges US$10 for a malaria test. Ask for directions as the
in Zomba town near the PTC Supermarket. Survey maps of Blantyre and the surround- Test Centre is hard to find.
Alternatively, you can take a taxi (negotiable ing area are available from the Department of INTERNET ACCESS Seventh Day Adventist Clinic (Map p215; %01-
from around US$8). If this is beyond your Surveys Map Sales Office (Map p215; Victoria Ave). See You will find plenty of internet bureaus in 620006; Robins Rd) For medical or dental problems, this
means, get a taxi part way through the sub- also p229. Blantyre. clinic charges US$6 for a doctor’s consultation and US$10
urbs, say as far as Wico Sawmill or the Zomba Celtel Cyber Cafe (Map p215; Victoria Ave; per 30min for a malaria test.
Forest Lodge turn-off, then simply walk up the Information US$2)
Up Rd. The views are excellent! BOOKSHOPS E Internet Café (Map p215; cnr Victoria Ave & Independ- MONEY
Alternatively, you can walk all the way from Central Africana bookshop (Map p215; Victoria Ave) ence Dr; per 30min US$2.20) All of the following banks are on Victoria
Zomba town to the plateau via the road or on Specialises in antiquarian and specialist African titles, plus Icon Internet Café (Map p215; per 30min US$2) Off Ave. There are branches of the National Bank
the Potato Path (see p210). old prints and maps. Livingstone Ave. of Malawi and Stanbic Bank, both of which
Central Bookshop (Map p213; Chichri Shopping Centre) can change cash and travellers cheques and
BLANTYRE & LIMBE For a much wider selection than TBS, visit this bookshop. MEDICAL SERVICES have 24-hour ATMs that accept Visa, Mas-
Blantyre – the commercial and industrial It stocks stationery, books and guides about Malawi, local- MPL pharmacy (Map p215; Victoria Ave) There’s a large terCard, Cirrus and Maestro. Victoria Forex
capital of Malawi – is a more happening city language dictionaries and a good range of novels by local MPL pharmacy on Victoria Ave, and several smaller ones (%01-621026) usually has more competitive
than Lilongwe, although that’s not saying writers. There’s also a pleasant coffee shop. elsewhere around the city centre. rates and charges no commission. You can
 214 S O U T H E R N MA L A W I • • B l a n t y re & L i m b e Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N MA L A W I • • B l a n t y re C i t y C e n t re 215

get a speedy cash advance on your credit card an inspiring project that was set up to teach

Brewery (1km)
To Carlsberg

To Limbe
(5km)
0.3 miles
500 m
here for a fee of US$3. people how to recycle paper. This is an im-
portant issue in Malawi, where some people
PHOTOGRAPHY are too poor to buy exercise books for their

British Airways.....................(see 12)

KLM & Kenya Airways.........(see 27)

City to City & Translux Depot..42 D3

Munorurama Bus Depot........ 44 D2

Wenela Bus Station............... 46 D2

South African Airways............ 45 C3
Air Malawi.............................40 B2

City Bus Station......................41 B3

Coachline Bus Station.............43 B2

Green Photo (Map p215; cnr Livingstone Ave & Hend- children. For US$0.80 you can take a tour of

d
erson St) The large and busy Green Photo sells print film, their workshop to see how it’s all done. They

a R
kat
Rd
develops and can provide passport photos. sell a lovely variety of cards and other paper eka
Chil

Ma
Old

Rd
products made from a range of different ma-

s
der
POST terial including elephant dung! To help slow

San
Post office (Map p215; Glyn Jones Rd; h7.30am-5pm) down the rate of deforestation, PAMET makes

TRANSPORT
0
0
Has poste restante. paper briquettes that are used as an alternative

16
to charcoal and firewood.
TELEPHONE The National Museum (Map p213; Kasungu Cres; ad-

Doogles Bar.........................(see 23)

Michiru Restaurant..............(see 27)
Old Manager's House..........(see 17)

Garden Terrace Bar..............(see 27)

Temptation Coffee Shop........ 37 C3

Chimwewe Restaurant........... 38 C3
Peoples Supermarket..............36 B3

Legends.................................39 B3
There are several small phone bureaus around mission US$0.70, h7.30am-5pm) is midway between

E
the main bus station, from which you can Blantyre and Limbe. There’s a small collection

Centre (2km); Shoprite (2km);

Chileka Rd

National Museum (2.5km);

make national calls. Doogles (p216) has inter- of traditional weapons and artefacts, and ex-

To Chichini Shopping

Liwonde (100km)
national telephone facilities for guests. hibits relating to traditional dance, European

er

Zomba (75km);
Limbe (6km);
Riv
exploration and slavery.

res
ir C
TOURIST INFORMATION A visit to the Carlsberg Brewery (Map p213;

Mo
8

res
Immigration office (Map p215; Building Society House, %01-670022; Gomani Rd), east of the centre, may

DRINKING

ey C
Blantyre
Station
To Balaka (105km)

Train
Victoria Ave) If you need to extend your visa, Blantyre has also appeal. Free tours are conducted at

46

22

Kidn
23
an immigration office. 2.30pm every Wednesday; you must book. mba
Pl

M
2
Mulo
Tourist office (Map p215; %01-620300; Victoria Ave; The tour ends with a free tasting session.

D2

21 Grill on Hanover...............(see 28)

A1
A1

Kandodo Supermarket.............33 C3
B3

B2
B2

Alem Ethiopian Restaurant.......29 B3

Bombay Palace.........................30 B2
Hong Kong Restaurant.............31 B2
Jungle Pepper..........................32 B3

Kips..........................................34 B3
Megabite Takeaway Café ........35 B3

44
D
h7.30am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri) The central tourist Some places to stay in Blantyre arrange trans- Hwy

Doogles...................................23
Henderson Street Guest House..24
Jambo House...........................25
Kabula Lodge...........................26
Mount Soche Hotel..................27
Ryalls Protea Hotel...................28
ere Rd
emb en
office has a few leaflets, and the people here make quite port here. Alternatively, you can walk or Chip Rd ph
Ste
MALAWI

MALAWI
kle
an effort to provide information and assistance. get a taxi. ac
M

Railway
Sidings
A nice way to spend an hour or two is a

42

17
Dangers & Annoyances visit to the Mandala Manager’s House (Map p215;

d
Don’t wander around alone at night. Some %01-671932; Mandala House; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-

s R
To Chileka Airport (15km);

one
travellers walking between the city centre and Fri, 8.30am-1pm Sat). Set in pleasant gardens, this

i
Mwanza (120km);
Lilongwe (310km)

ud
EATING

n J

M
Doogles, east of the city, have been attacked old colonial house was built in 1882 and is

Haile Selassie Rd
45
Gly

Rd
Stewart
at night under the railway bridge on Chileka now home to a café, La Caverna Art Gallery

ng
C

hiu
10
Rd. During daylight this route is fine but after (lacaverna@malawi.net) and the Society of Malawi

La Caverna Art Gallery.............(see 17)

Mandala Manager's House........ 17 D4

Blantyre Lodge...........................22 D3
Municipal Market......................18 C4
TBS Bookshop............................12 B3
Tourist Office.............................13 B3
Victoria Forex.............................14 B2

Blantyre Sports Club...................15 B3

PAMET.......................................19 B2
Reserve Bank Building................20 B3

Alendo Hotel..............................21 B3
CCAP Church.............................16 E2

os
33
Rd

Ka
dark a taxi is recommended (from the centre Library & Archive.
e's
ka St Georg
ile

37
Ch
to Doogles is US$5). At night taxi drivers will Blantyre Sports Club (Map p215), off Inde- w St Andrew'
s

National
Ne

Library

18
take you from the bus station to Doogles – all pendence Dr, offers daily membership for

M
1
St David's Ave

Temple
of 300m – but still charge US$1! As always, US$5, which allows you to enter the club

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

38
11 Hindu

Chikwawa (115km)
6
32
watch your back in busy bus stations. Limbe and use the bar and restaurant. To use the Ave

41
Livingstone

To Nsanje;
27
Browns Rd
(Map p213) is particularly crowded, so stay pool or to play squash or tennis costs another

13
3
SLEEPING

9
alert there. US$0.80. Nine holes of golf costs US$3; equip-

40
Ave
s Rd Victoria Rd
bin Sclater

14
2
ment can be hired. Ro

Rd

5
Lower

31

12
30

34 7

29
e
Ave
Sights & Activities
B
There are very good craft stalls (Victoria Ave)

3536
Chilembw
Victoria Ave

39
Hanover

4
BLANTYRE CITY CENTRE

Icon Internet Café..................(see 32)

Probably the most impressive building in outside the Peoples Supermarket. The mod-

Mwaiwathu Private Hospital......8 D2

MPL Pharmacy......................(see 12)

28
Seventh Day Adventist Clinic..(see 40)
Post Office...............................10 C3
British Consulate.........................1 B3
Celtel Cyber Cafe.......................2 B2
Central Africana Bookshop.........3 B2

Office.....................................4 B3
E Internet Café ..........................5 B3
Green Photo...............................6 B3

Immigration Office.....................7 B3

National Bank of Malawi............9 B3

Stanbic Bank............................11 B2

43

20

1
21
Blantyre is the CCAP Church (Map p215), off ern buildings of the Municipal Market (Map p215;
Department of Surveys Map Sales
Laws Rd

15
Hill Rd
Kabula
Chileka Rd, officially called the Church of Kaoshiung Rd) give it a more formal feel than the

Cathedral
of St Paul

19
St Michael and All Angels. This magnificent hectic market in Lilongwe; it’s still worth a

24
church was built in 1891 by Scottish mis- visit even if you don’t want to buy anything.

Dr
on St
Sharpe Rd
sionaries who had no construction training,

nce
INFORMATION

Henders
Rd

ende
using only local handmade bricks and wood. Sleeping

Jones

Indep
It has a basilica dome, towers, arches and bay Blantyre has a couple of good budget options

e Rd
Glyn
windows. Although extensively renovated in for backpackers, as well as excellent midrange
A

Chilembw
the 1970s, what you see today is pretty much and top-end choices. Most hotels are located
Ring Rd (3km)

hiru Rd
To Chilomoni

how it looked the day it was completed. in Blantyre city centre, although a couple of Mic
26
To Michiru
Mountain

25
(5km)

PAMET (Map p215; Paper Making Education Trust; the budget options are near the main bus
2

3
1

4
%01-623895; 10 Chilembwe Rd; www.pamet.org.mw) is station.
 216 S O U T H E R N MA L A W I • • B l a n t y re & L i m b e Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N MA L A W I • • B l a n t y re & L i m b e 217

BUDGET rounding hills. There’s also a TV lounge and a café is set in the grounds of the Mandala Man- Garden Terrace Bar (Map p215; Mount Soche Hotel)
Doogles (Map p215; %01-621128; www.doogleslodge self-service ‘honesty’ bar. There’s no restaurant ager’s House (p214) and has excellent home- Caters to a more composed market and its
.com; Mulomba Pl; camping US$3, dm US$5.50, chalets with as such, but meals can be provided if you ask in made cakes, salads and good coffee. Mains tranquil surrounds are appealing. At the same
shared bathroom US$16, d US$21; i) Backpackers can advance. All prices include breakfast. include homemade lasagne and fishcakes. hotel, the Sportsman’s Bar is favoured by local
pitch their tents here, and there’s also room for Alendo Hotel (Map p215; %01-621866; 15 Chilem- 21 Grill on Hanover (Map p215; Ryalls Protea Hotel; businessmen and other movers and shakers.
a few trucks and cars with tents. The rooms bwe Rd; s/d from US$55/65) In the centre, this is starters US$3, mains US$9-17; hlunch & dinner) This is Doogles bar (Map p215; hto late) Like a constant
and dorms are decent enough, but some of the the Malawian Institute of Tourism training a highly rated eatery, with swanky interior happy hour, where a fluent stream of travellers
chalets are looking a little rough and it’s not school and has super-eager staff and bright complete with soft lighting, mahogany book- chill out and socialise with devoted expats and
the most friendly of places. The bar is open to airy corridors but tight rooms. The facilities cases, comfortable cushioned chairs and the well-to-do Malawians.
the general public and is always lively – fine if are good, however, and there’s secure park- soft tinkle of piano music in the background. Chimwewe Restaurant (Map p215; cnr Henderson St
you want to party, not so good if you want to ing. The attached Kachere Restaurant (three- Serves seriously good steaks and seafood. & Haile Selassie Rd) Despite its name, this is more
relax or get some sleep (see opposite). There’s a course dinner US$10) is good value. Michiru Restaurant (Map p215; Mount Soche Hotel; like a bar. Loud music and gaming machines
limited menu of snacks and burgers at the bar Mount Soche Hotel (Map p215; %01-620588; mount mains US$12-17; hdinner Mon-Sat) This is the smart, mean it’s low on charm, but the congenial
(snacks US$1 to US$2.50, dishes US$4), and an soche@sunbirdmalawi.com; Glyn Jones Rd; B&B s/d US$120/135; top-floor restaurant at the Mount Soche Hotel. crowd and cheap drinks compensate.
internet café. They also run budget tours. s) Popular with business travellers, it also has Excellent steak, fish, chicken and prawn dishes French Cultural Centre (Map p213; %01-671250;
Limbe Country Club (Map p213; %01-641145; Living- all the required facilities although it’s not quite come with a hefty price tag, but the views are ccfr@malawi.net; cnr Moi Rd & Kasungu Cres; h8am-12pm &
stone Ave, Limbe; camping per person US$7.50) An alterna- as swish as Ryalls. Ask for a room at a back; they pretty fine. 2pm-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat) Not just for French
tive for those with wheels. Here you can park have balconies with grand views over the hills. lessons. The Centre has a regular programme
and camp on the edge of the playing fields. Ryalls Protea Hotel (Map p215; %01-620955; FOOD STALLS & CAFÉS of concerts, plays and readings. Performances
Rates include club membership, so you can ryalls@proteamalawi.com; 2 Hanover Ave; s/d US$210/243; Kips (Map p215; %01-635247; Hanover Ave; breakfast US$1, have been known to include such international
use the showers and restaurant inside. s) Very classy old-fashioned place, with a dishes US$1.30-5; h8am-10pm Sun-Thu, 8am-midnight Fri luminaries as Angelique Kidjo.
Kabula Lodge (%01-621216; Kabula Hill; dm/s/d grand entrance hall and sophisticated rooms & Sat) Dishes up a real mix of pizzas, burgers, Blantyre Sports Club, off Independence Dr,
US$10/35/45; i) Northwest of the city centre, decorated with old black-and-white photos fish, steak, Malawian and Indian meals. It’s features live music on the last Friday of every
off Michiru Rd, this is highly recommended. and African artefacts. It’s also home to the clean and deservedly popular with locals. month. Occasional live music is played at
Dorms have only two or three beds, and rates superb 21 Grill on Hanover. Jungle Pepper (Map p215; %01-635135; pizzas both the Mount Soche Hotel and Ryalls Protea
MALAWI

MALAWI
for the spotless, comfortable rooms include US$4-5; h10.30am-9pm Thu-Tue) Off Livingstone Ave. Hotel, where entry is about US$3.
breakfast. A cool veranda wraps around the Eating Teems with office workers over the lunch hour,
back of the building, offering great views of Blantyre has a good selection of places to due to a tasty and diverse selection of fresh SPECTATOR SPORT
the city. The friendly Malawian lady who runs eat to suit all budgets and the widest variety pizzas and hotdogs. Blantyre’s main sports venue is the Chichiri
this place can prepare meals with advance available in Malawi. Temptation Coffee Shop (Map p215; Glyn Jones Rd; Stadium (Map p213), off Makata Rd, between
notice, or you can self-cater. There’s also an dishes US$2-5; h8am-6pm) Serves good burgers, the city centre and Limbe. This is also Malawi’s
internet café with cheap, fast access. There RESTAURANTS tasty Malawian dishes and a tempting selec- national stadium; international football and
are discounts for long stays, and this place Alem Ethiopian Restaurant (Map p215; %01-622529; tion of pastries for sweet tooths. other events are held here. There’s no regular
is very popular with volunteers so it pays to Victoria Ave; dishes US$1-7.50; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat) For Megabite Takeaway Café (Map p215; Independence Dr; programme, but matches are advertised in the
book in advance. some different African flavours, this place dishes US$1.50-5; h11am-9pm Mon-Sat) Little court- newspaper and on billboards around town.
Blantyre Lodge (Map p215; %01-834460; Chileka Rd; serves injera (sour millet pancake) and wot yard café that is popular with the lunchtime
r US$15) Large hotel near the bus station. It has (sauce), but you can also get ‘normal’ meals office crowd. Serves fish and chips and Malawi Getting There & Away
a rather clinical feel to it, but the rooms are like chicken and chips or curry. curries. AIR
good value (although they could do without Hong Kong Restaurant (Map p215; %01-620859; Blantyre’s Chileka airport is about 15km
the wall-to-wall, plush maroon carpeting) and Robins Rd; dishes US$2.50-4; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sun) SELF-CATERING north of the city centre. For details on the
the premises secure. Housed in a grand pagoda-style building that The main Peoples Supermarket (Map p215; Inde- airport and flights to/from Blantyre see p231
Henderson Street Guest House (Map p215; %01- belies the rather mediocre food. For a Chinese pendence Dr) sells food and other goods, much and p233.
823474, 794572; 19 Henderson St; r US$21) This small restaurant the menu is surprisingly limited of it imported from South Africa or Europe Airline offices in Blantyre include Air Ma-
and welcoming guesthouse has five rooms and the food, although it arrives in large por- and sold at similar prices. Cheaper but more lawi (Map p215; %01-620811; Robins Rd); KLM & Kenya
with large baths and DSTV. The house itself tions, is nothing special. limited supplies can be bought at Kandodo Airways (Map p215; %01-620106; Mount Soche Hotel);
sits in a massive garden and is a great place to Bombay Palace (Map p215; %08-400400, 600600; supermarket (Map p215; Glyn Jones Rd). There’s also British Airways (Map p215; %01-624333; Victoria Ave);
shut yourself away from the noise of the city. Hanover Ave; starters US$2, mains US$6-10; hlunch & dinner a huge Shoprite (Map p213; Kamuzu Highway) a few and South African Airways (Map p215; %01-620627;
Rates include breakfast. Mon-Sat) This place serves the best Indian food kilometres out of town. Haile Selassie Rd).
in the city. It’s stylishly decorated and the
MIDRANGE & TOP END food tastes surprisingly fresh and light. Their Drinking & Entertainment BUS & MINIBUS
Jambo House (Map p215; %01-623709; jamboafrica@africa specialty is the Rumali Basket Masala – a light BARS, NIGHTCLUBS & PERFORMANCE Coachline buses run between Blantyre and
-online.net; Kabula Hill; s/d with shared bathroom US$30/40, s/d crispy batter filled with onions, tomatoes and VENUES Lilongwe (US$18, four hours, three daily),
US$40/50; s) A homely little place, off Michiru green chillies. Legends (Map p215; Hanover Ave; admission US$1, live music stopping at the Total petrol station near Ryalls
Rd, with just four bedrooms, a swimming pool Old Manager’s House (Map p215; mains US$5; h8.30am- US$3) A popular American-style bar and night- Protea Hotel on Hanover St. The booking
and gardens with excellent views of the sur- 4.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-1pm Sat) This charming little club that gets hot and busy after 10pm. office is also here.
 218 S O U T H E R N MA L A W I • • A r o u n d B l a n t y re lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N MA L A W I • • M u l a n j e 219

Blantyre’s main bus station (for Shire Bus first. The price can be negotiated down a bit
Lines long-distance express and ordinary if you’re going from the city to the airport. If MALAWI’S CUP OF TEA
services) is east of the centre on Mulomba your budget doesn’t include taxis, frequent South and east of Blantyre, on the rolling hills of the Shire Highlands, the climate is ideal for
Pl. Express buses run between Blantyre and local buses between the Blantyre city centre growing tea, and the area is covered with plantations (or ‘estates’). The first tea bushes were
Lilongwe via Zalewa (the junction with the bus station and Chileka township pass the imported from India during the early days of the Nyasaland colony, and the tea production
Mwanza road; US$5, five hours, one daily); airport gate. The fare is US$0.30. quickly became a major industry. It’s now a major export crop (along with tobacco and sugar),
this route is also serviced by ordinary buses providing thousands of people with jobs.
(US$3.80, seven hours, four daily). There’s an BUS As you travel along the main road between Limbe and Mulanje, the seemingly endless fields
express service to Zomba (US$2, one hour, Blantyre is a compact city, so it’s unlikely of tea appear as vivid green girds carpeting the hillsides. The tea-pickers (men and women) work
one daily), which also continues to Lilongwe you’ll need to use public transport to get their way slowly down the lines, picking just a few leaves and a bud from the top of each bush
(US$6, seven hours). Ordinary buses travel be- around, apart from the minibuses that shuttle and throwing them into large baskets on their backs. At the end of each shift, the baskets are
tween Blantyre and Zomba (US$1, 1½ hours, along Chipembere Highway between Blantyre taken to a collection area, where they are weighed and each worker’s wages are calculated. The
frequently), Mulanje (US$1.25, 1½ hours, city centre bus station and Limbe bus station. leaves are then transported to a tea factory, where they are trimmed and dried before being
seven daily), Mwanza (US$1.30, one hour, two The one-way fare is US$0.30. packed in bags and boxes ready for export. A small proportion of low-quality tea stays within
daily) and Monkey Bay (US$3.80, eight hours, the country to be sold locally.
one daily), via Liwonde (US$2, three hours) TAXI If you have a genuine interest in tea production it may be possible to arrange a tour of an
and Mangochi (US$3, six hours). You can find private hire taxis at the Mount estate and factory. There is no established set-up; you simply call the estate and ask a senior
Other buses (ie not Shire Bus Lines) and Soche Hotel or at the bus stations. A taxi manager if it’s possible to visit. You’ll probably need your own vehicle, or have to take a taxi, as
long-distance minibuses go from the bus sta- across the city centre is around US$3; between most estate offices are off the main road and difficult to reach by public transport. The best place
tion in Limbe; most leave on a fill-up-and-go the centre and the main bus station costs from to start with is Satemwa Estate (%01-473233/500; www.satemwa.com) near the small town of Thyolo
basis. It’s often quicker to get a local minibus US$3 to US$4; and from Blantyre to Limbe (cho-low) on the main road between Limbe and Mulanje. Highly recommended is a night in their
to Limbe bus station, and then a long-distance costs around US$5. Chawani Bungalow (US$70 per night), which sleeps up to eight guests and includes the services
bus or ‘half-bus’ from there rather than wait of a caretaker/cook. From the bungalow you can walk through the tea estates or go through the
for the Shire express or ordinary buses in Blan- AROUND BLANTYRE evergreen forest remnants on nearby Thyolo Mountain, which is a popular bird-watching spot.
tyre. Routes include Zomba (US$1), Mulanje Blantyre is surrounded by three ‘mountains’, Another estate that sometimes allows visits is British Tea Estates (%01-472266). The tourist
MALAWI

MALAWI
(US$1.50), and Mangochi (US$3). Michiru, Soche and Ndirande, all actually office in Blantyre (p214) may have more suggestions.
large hills that can all be hiked to the sum-

Ὀ
TRAIN mit. Some hikers have been attacked on Mt
For information on trains that stop at Blantyre Ndirande, so you should go here only with a vation area with nature trails. Animals found in a scenic spot below the mountain. The first
and Limbe, see p232 and p236. guide. These can be arranged from Doogles here include monkeys, klipspringers and even night’s rate includes membership, so you can
(see p216) for around US$2 per day. The leopards, but you’re unlikely to see very much use the showers and bar, and consecutive
Getting Around path up Mt Soche starts at Soche Secondary of them. Bird-watching is much more re- nights only cost US$2.
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT School. warding – more than 400 species have been The Council Resthouse (r with shared/private bathroom

ὈὈὈὈ Ὀ
A taxi from the airport to the city costs around The most rewarding excursion is to Mt recorded in the area. To reach the visitor US$0.50/1), close to the bus station, is bargain
US$10, but agree on a price with the driver Michiru, 8km northwest of the city, a conser- centre (where the trails start), take Kabula basement in price and quality. Heading closer
Hill Rd from the city and Michiru Rd through to Likhubula on the main road, Mulanje Motel
AROUND BLANTYRE 0
0
5 km
3 miles
a select suburb and then a township. At the (%01-466245; r with shared/private bathroom US$3/6.50)
To Lilongwe To Balaka To Zomba
end of the sealed road (3km from Blantyre), is a much better budget option.
Chileka
Blantyre (295km)
(Chileka)
(85km) (55km) &
Liwonde (80km)
Chiradzulu
Forest Reserve
a dirt road leads along the eastern foot of the Limbani Lodge (%01-466390; s/d US$5/7.50, VIP

ὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
Airport
mountain. Take the left turn that is signposted r US$13), near the School for the Blind, has the
Mt Chiradzulu
Chikunda
M
1 (1770m) Chiradzulu ‘nature trails’, which takes you to the visitor best beds in town. Standard rooms are comfy
Farm
centre, where you can buy a map. There’s no and the ‘VIP’ rooms contain TV and fully
Conservation Area
Visitors Centre
M
3 public transport, but you can get a taxi as far equipped kitchens.
Chirimba
as the driver is prepared to go along the dirt Ordinary buses go to/from Blantyre and
Mt Michiru
(1473m) M Ndirande road, and then you will need to walk the rest Limbe (US$1.30, 1½ hours, seven daily) as
Michiru 1 Forest Reserve
Mbombwe of the way. You may be able to get a lift back do minibuses (US$1.50, 40 minutes). If you’re
Forest Reserve Mt Ndirande
(1610m)
with other visitors. heading for the border of Mozambique, mini-
buses, matola and buses all run to Muloza
Blantyre
MULANJE (US$0.50, 40 minutes). For more border
Kamuzu
Limbe This small town is the centre of Malawi’s tea- crossing information, see p232.
wy
H growing industry. You may stay overnight
See Greater Blantyre & Limbe Map (p213)
here if you’re going to Mozambique, but most MOUNT MULANJE
Mt Soche M
Chisombezi travellers come on the way to Mt Mulanje. Mt Mulanje (also called the Mulanje Plateau)
To Chikwawa M
1
Soche
(1530m) 2
To Thyolo (27km)
To Mulanje
(Old Road) Mulanje Golf Club (%01-466260; camping per person rises steeply from the undulating plain of the
(35km) Forest Reserve & Mulanje (82km) (25km)
US$3.80), on the eastern side of town, is planted highlands, surrounded by near-vertical cliffs
 220 S O U T H E R N MA L A W I • • M o u n t M u l a n j e lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N MA L A W I • • M o u n t M u l a n j e 221

MOUNT MULANJE 0
0
10 km
6 miles
get lost. Between May and August, periods sealed Blantyre–Mulanje road), which has
To Zomba (by minor
of low cloud and drizzle (called chiperone) shops, stalls and a small supermarket, or in
A B dirt roads; 60km) C D can last several days, and temperatures drop Blantyre.
INFORMATION
Nazombe below freezing. None of this is a problem as
Chambe Forest Station.................1 A2 long as you’ve got warm, waterproof gear and Guidebooks & Maps
Chitakala Trading Centre.............2 A4
1 Likhubula Forestry Office.............3 A3 don’t get lost. Otherwise, you risk suffering The Guide to Mulanje Massif, by Frank East-
un t a i n
Mulanje Infocentre....................(see 2) Mo from severe exposure. In 1999 an unfortunate wood, has information on ascent routes and
Phalombe se
traveller died up here. main peaks plus a large section on rock climb-

he
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Mc
Mchese Peak
Lujeri Tea Factory........................4 C4
Tiyende Pamodzi Adventures...(see 11)
(765m) ing, but nothing on the routes between huts.
Information

Ph al om
For
t L
iste
There’s more detail on Mulanje in Lonely
Nambiya
r Ga
p Hiking on Mt Mulanje is controlled by Planet’s Trekking in East Africa, which also

be
Tinyade Estate
the Likhubula Forestry Office (PO Box 50, Mulanje; covers Nyika and Zomba.

Rv
Nkhulambe
h7.30am-noon & 1-5pm), at the small village of If you need detailed maps, the Department
Th
uc
h
Lukulezi
Litakala
Likhubula, about 15km from Mulanje town. of Surveys prints a map of the mountain at
Mission
2 Peak The friendly and helpful staff can arrange 1:40,000, which shows most of the paths and
ila Rv

(2368m)
Chigaru
Chambe Peak Nandalanda
Peak
Peak guides and porters from an official list. You huts. The 1:30,000 Tourist Map of Mulanje
(2557m) (2654m)Namasile 14
(2590m) Peak must register here and make reservations for covers a similar area, overprinted with extra
15 8 (2687m)
Chambe
Basin 1 7 Khuto
Ruo
Basin Chinzama
Matambale
Peak
the mountain huts (you can also call or write information for hikers. These maps are usu-
Peak
Chambe
Peak
(2663m)
M
(2643m) in advance). Camping is permitted only near ally available from the Department of Surveys
ulo
Plateau Chisepo Dzole 13 za huts and only when they’re full. Open fires Map Sales Offices in Lilongwe (p168) and
Rv

Path Junction Peak Rv

Chapaluka
are not allowed – this is especially important Blantyre (p212), but stocks occasionally run
Ruo

11 9 (2715m)
Path Rv
3 ula
Likhubula 6 Lichenya Pa ikh
ub North Peak Nakodzwe
Peak
Madzeka
Basin Nayawani North
during the latter part of the dry season, when dry.
th L (2891m)
Peak (2284m) Nayawa
ni
West Sapitwa
(2964m)
12 Shelf
there is a serious fire risk. The collecting of
Chilemba
3 Peak
Peak Peak
(2686m) (3001m) Nayawani South plants and animals is forbidden. Guides & Porters
(2355m) Chilemba Col Waterfall Peak (2345m)
Also good for information is the Mulanje Porters are not obligatory, but they make
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10 Lichenya South
5 Basin Peak
Hydroelectric
Power Manene Peak Infocentre (%01-466466, infomulanje@malawi.net) the hiking easier, especially for the first day’s
(2637m) Lu Station Nadonetsa (2640m)
jer based at Chitakale Trading Centre, on the cor- steep hike from Likhubula Forestry Office.
Lik

i
(Little Ruo)
Ndiza Rv
hub

SLEEPING ner of Phalombe Rd. It’s set up to give travel- Guides are definitely recommended to help
Rv
ula

Lichenya CCAP Cottage.........................5 A3

8 lers all pertinent information about hiking on you through the maze of paths.
Pa ma

2 Plateau CCAP Guesthouse...................6 A3

th
Bo

Lichenya

To
Chitakale Chambe Hut............................7
Chinzama Hut..........................8
A2
C2
the mountain and carries a good selection of As you arrive in Likhubula (or Mulanje
Blantyre Mulanje Nessa
books and maps. town) you’ll be besieged by hopeful locals
Rv

(90km) Chisepo Hut.............................9 B3

4
Lichenya Hut.........................10 A3
An excellent company based in the area looking for work, but you should arrange
Rv

Likhubula Forest Lodge..........11 A3

4 M
Madzeka Hut.........................12 C3 is Tiyende Pamodzi Adventures (%01-467737; www guides and porters only at Likhubula, as the
2 Mini Mini
Minunu Hut...........................13 C3
Estate
Sombani Hut..........................14 C2
.cholemalawi.com/pamodzi). Located at Likhubula forest station keeps a registered list, which
Thuchila Hut..........................15 B2 Forest Lodge, it gets rave reviews from trav- works on a rotation system. Some porters
Muloza
MOZAMBIQUE
ellers and offers packages from US$145 for a are not on the list but are ‘cleared’ by the
two-day package to $370 for six days. office staff.
There is nowhere you can buy food on Mt There is a standard charge of around US$7
of bare rock, many over 1000m high. The cliffs bowl-shaped river basins, separated by rocky Mulanje, so you must carry all you need. At per day per porter and US$8 per guide (regard-
are dissected by vegetated valleys, where rivers peaks and ridges. The highest peak is Sapitwa Likhubula there’s a small market, but you’re less of group size), payable in kwacha (you
drop in spectacular waterfalls. It is often misty (3001m), the highest point in Malawi and in better off getting supplies at Chitikali (where should avoid hiring porters who undercut this
here and Mulanje’s high peaks sometimes jut all Southern Africa north of the Drakensberg. the dirt road to Likhubula turns off the main price in their eagerness to get work). The total
above the cloud, giving rise to the local name There are other peaks on the massif above
‘Island in the Sky’. Some people come to the 2500m, and you can reach most of the sum-
base of the mountain just for a day visit, but mits without technical climbing. PINES ON MULANJE
the stunning scenery, easy access, clear paths For hikers, it’s worth remembering that The pine plantations on Mulanje were first established by the colonial government in the early
and well-maintained huts make Mulanje a Mulanje is a big mountain with notoriously 1950s, mainly around Chambe. The sides of all the massif are too steep for a road, so all timber
fine hiking area and many travellers spend at unpredictable weather. After periods of heavy is cut by hand and then carried down on a cableway (called the skyline) or on the heads of forest
least a few days here. rain, streams can become swollen and im- labourers. As you’re going up the Chambe Plateau Path you’ll see these incredibly hardy guys
Mulanje measures about 30km from west passable – do not try to cross them! Wait walking downhill, sometimes running, with huge planks of wood balanced on their heads.
to east and 25km from north to south, with until the flood subsides (sometimes after a The plantations provide employment for local people and wood for the whole of southern
an area of at least 600 sq km. On its northeast- few hours) or adjust your route to cross in Malawi. A bad side effect, apart from the ugliness of the plantations, is the tendency of pine trees to
ern corner is the outlier Mchese Mountain, safety further upstream. Even during the dry spread slowly across the natural grassland as seeds are blown by the wind. These introduced trees
separated from the main massif by the Fort season, it’s not uncommon to get rain, cold disturb the established vegetation balance – which is always precarious in highland areas.
Lister Gap. The massif is composed of several winds and thick mists, which make it easy to
 222 S O U T H E R N MA L A W I • • M o u n t M u l a n j e lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N MA L A W I • • M o u n t M u l a n j e 223

fee for the whole trip should be agreed before Likhubula: the Chambe Plateau Path (also It normally takes about three to six hours ON THE MOUNTAIN
departure and put in writing. Fees are paid at called the Skyline Path), the Chapaluka Path to hike between one hut and the next, which Forestry huts (camping per person US$0.80, huts per person
the end of the trip but porters are expected to and the Lichenya Path. Other routes, more means you can walk in the morning, dump US$1.30) On Mulanje are eight forestry huts:
provide their own food, so about 25% may be often used for the descent, are: Thuchila Hut to your kit, then go out to explore a nearby peak Chambe, Chisepo, Lichenya, Thuchila (chu-
required in advance. Make sure guides and Lukulezi Mission; Sombani Hut to Fort Lister or valley in the afternoon. chila), Chinzama, Minunu, Madzeka and
porters bring everything they need, and tell Gap; and Minunu Hut to Lujeri tea estate. Sombani. Each is equipped with benches,
them no other food can be provided. Even if Once you’re on the massif, a network of Sleeping tables and open fires with plenty of wood.
you do this, you’ll still feel guilty when you stop paths links the huts and peaks, and many dif- BELOW THE MOUNTAIN Some have sleeping platforms (no mattresses);
for lunch and your escorts sit and watch you, ferent permutations are possible; we outline CCAP Guesthouse (camping US$1, chalets per person in others you just sleep on the floor. You
so take a few extra packets of biscuits for them. some choices in the boxed text, below. Be US$6.50) At the CCAP Mission it has cosy provide your own food, cooking gear, candles,
You may want to tip your porters and guides if warned that some of the routes are impass- rooms, self-catering chalets and camping. sleeping bag and stove (although you can cook
the service has been good; a rule of thumb is to able or otherwise dangerous. The route from Likhubula Forest Lodge (%01-467737; likhubula@ on the fire). A caretaker chops wood, lights
pay something around an extra day’s wage for Madzeka Hut to Lujeri is very steep, and the cholemalawi.com; camping per person US$5, s/d/tr with shared fires and brings water, for which a small tip
every three to five days. The maximum weight wooden ladders required to cross the steepest bathroom US$15/20/25, s/d/tr US$20/25/30) At Likhubula, should be paid.
each porter can carry is 18kg. sections have rotted away, making it effec- this stylish lodge has a kitchen, comfortable Payments must be made at Likhubula For-
tively impassable. On the southwestern side lounge and several bedrooms and is spotless all estry Office – show your receipt to the hut
Hiking Routes of Mulanje, the Boma Path and the path from over. A cook will prepare your food and wash caretaker. The huts are an absolute bargain.
There are about six main routes up and down Lichenya to Nessa are both dangerously steep up. You can camp in the grounds. The entire Camping is permitted near the huts when
Mulanje. The three main ascent routes go from and very rarely used. lodge can be rented for US$150 a night. there are no more beds. Some huts may be full

A MULANJE TRAVERSE
There are many ways to traverse the Mulanje massif. The route we describe briefly here, from in places, spiralling round the northern side of the mountain to approach the summit from the
Likhubula to Fort Lister, is one of several options, although it seems to be the most popular. It west. A guide is recommended unless you’re competent on vague paths in bad weather.
can be done in four days, but there are several variations that can extend this period, and plenty
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of opportunities for sidetracking, to take in a few peaks and ridges or explore small valleys. Sombani Hut to Fort Lister Gap
This stage (5km, three hours) is all downhill, with great views over the surrounding plains. There
Likhubula Forestry Office to Chambe Hut are a lot of forks, so a guide is useful to show you the way, but otherwise at every fork keep
There are two options: the Chambe Plateau Path, which is short and steep (two to four hours); going down. For the last section you follow a dirt track, past Fort Lister Forest Station, from
and the Chapaluka Path (3½ to five hours), which is less steep and more scenic. From the hut where it’s another 8km along the dirt road to Phalombe village. There’s little or no traffic, so
veranda, there are good views of the southeastern face of Chambe Peak (2557m), but if you fancy you’ll have to hike (about two hours), but it’s pleasant enough. Most porters include this stretch
reaching the summit of this spectacular peak, from Chambe Hut it will take you five to seven in the fee you pay for the final day.
hours to get to the top and back. The ascent is stiff and the paths are vague, so you may need From Phalombe ordinary buses go back to Likhubula or Mulanje (US$0.50, one hour, three
a guide. About two to 2½ hours from the hut, you reach a large cairn on a broad level part of daily), as do matola (US$1).
the ridge at the foot of the main face. You might be happy with reaching this point, which offers
excellent views over the Chambe Basin to the escarpment edge and the plains far below. CHAMBE–LICHENYA LOOP
This short but beautiful route is not an officially named trail, but we give it this title and recom-
Chambe Hut to Chisepo or Thuchila Hut mend it for a good taste of Mulanje if you haven’t got time for a traverse of the whole massif. It
This route is 12km (five to six hours). About two hours from Chambe, you reach Chisepo Junc- starts and finishes at Likhubula Forestry Office, and takes three days and two nights, but could
tion, where a path leads up to the summit of Sapitwa Peak (3001m). You can hike to the sum- be shortened to two days.
mit of Sapitwa, but it’s a toughie – not surprisingly, perhaps, Sapitwa means ‘Don’t Go There’
in the local language – and the upper section involves some tricky scrambling among large Likhubula Forestry Office to Chambe Hut
boulders and dense vegetation. From Chisepo Junction you should allow three to five hours for This stage is the same as the first stage of the Mulanje traverse.
the ascent, plus two to four for the descent. You can then either spend the night at Chisepo
Hut or push on through to either Chambe or Thuchila Hut. If you’re short of time, you can do Chambe Hut to Lichenya Basin
a shorter loop by descending from Thuchila Hut to Lukulezi Mission, then hiking or catching a This stage is four to five hours. Heading east from Chambe Hut (towards Thuchila), turn right at
matola back to Likhubula. a junction about 1½ hours from Chambe Hut to reach the Lichenya Basin, and either the CCAP
Cottage or Lichenya Hut.
Thuchila Hut to Sombani Hut
This stage (12km, four to five hours) takes you across a small col and down into the Ruo Basin. Lichenya Basin to Likhubula Forestry Office
About two hours from Thuchila Hut, you reach Chinzama Hut, where you can stop if you want This stage is four to five hours. Go across a col to the east of Chilemba Peak (you could side-
an easy day. The large mountain directly opposite Sombani Hut is Namasile (2687m), which takes track up here for fine views – allow two hours return) then descend through beautiful forest to
about three hours to ascend, plus two hours on the descent. The path is steep and strenuous eventually reach Likhubula.
 224 S O U T H E R N MA L A W I • • L o w e r S h i re lonelyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N MA L A W I • • L o w e r S h i re 225

at weekends, but you can normally adjust your corded here include elephants, sables, kudus distribution in Africa), bushbucks, impalas, Fees are payable (see p166).
route around this. As the reservation system and hartebeests. Poaching has taken a heavy duikers, kudus and buffaloes. There’s also a Access is possible only with a 4WD or great
doesn’t require a deposit, some local residents toll on the mammal population, but numbers large and varied bird population. determination. The reserve office is reached
book and then don’t turn up – it’s worth are returning. You’ll still be able to appreci- Standard entry fees must be paid at the gate from the main road between Chikwawa and
checking to see if this has happened. ate the reserve as a beautiful wilderness area, (see p166). There’s a network of vehicle tracks Nsanje, just east of the village of Sorgin, and
CCAP Cottage (beds US$1.30) On the Lichenya though, and you’re almost certain to have the for driving (some are impassable), but it’s about 10km west of Bangula. The Wildlife
Plateau, this is similar to the forestry huts, place to yourself. The bird-watching is good, more rewarding to walk in the park or spend Society of Malawi is currently involved in
but there are utensils in the kitchen, plus mat- and hiking is allowed (with a game scout). some time at the hides overlooking water projects to protect the reserve that encour-
tresses and blankets. You can make reserva- Entry fees are payable (see p166). holes; there’s one within walking distance of age local people to benefit from its resources.
tions at the CCAP Mission in Likhubula. The only driveable track in the reserve runs the Visitors Camp. These may also improve access for visitors, so
parallel to the Shire River (although not near it would be worth inquiring about the latest
Getting There & Away enough for you to see it from the track), to SLEEPING situation at the Wildlife Society of Malawi
See p217 and p219 for information on buses the Shire River’s confluence with the Mkuru- Sucoma Sports Club (%01-428200 ext 287; chalets per giftshop in Limbe (see p213).
between Blantyre and Mulanje town. The dirt madzi River, where you can pitch a tent at the person US$5.50) This place, 8km east of Nchalo,
road to Likhubula turns off the main sealed Mkurumadzi Camp ranger post (Map p207; is an option if you’ve got a car and seek more Elephant Marsh
Blantyre–Mulanje road at Chitikali, about although there are no facilities. This was one of comfortable accommodation. It has comfort- The Elephant Marsh is a large area of season-
2km west of the centre of Mulanje town – the notorious barriers to Livingstone’s explor- able chalets overlooking the river. This club is ally flooded plain on the Shire River about
follow the signpost to Phalombe. If you’re ation; he camped in this very spot in 1858 – for senior staff at the sugar estate; meals and 30km downstream from Chikwawa, just
coming from Blantyre on the bus, ask to be for more details see p159. drinks are also available. south of the vast Sucoma sugar estates. De-
dropped at Chitikali. From here, irregular If you’re in a car, this track crosses some Nyala Lodge (bookings through Jambo Africa; %01- spite the name, there are no elephants here
matola run to Likhubula (US$0.50). If you’re steep gullies so high clearance is essential. 623709, www.jambo-africa.com; chalet s/d US$60/100) Large any more, although vast herds inhabited the
in a group, you can hire the whole matola to If you’re hiking you can go from the gate to cottages with private bathrooms and spacious area less than 100 years ago. Some hippos and
Likhubula for around US$10. Alternatively, Mkurumadzi in a day, stay the night and hike verandas sleeping two to four. There’s also a crocodiles occur in quiet areas, but the main
you can walk (10km, two to three hours); it’s back. Just past the gate, a track leads east to pool and a camp site with clean ablutions and draw is the spectacular selection of birds –
a pleasant hike through tea estates, with good the spectacular Kapichira Falls, although the barbecue facilities. Antelope are often seen predominantly water species. This is one of
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MALAWI
views of the southwestern face of Mulanje on view is tarnished slightly by the vast dam and around the lodge. the best bird-watching areas in Malawi, but
your right. power station. it’s well worth considering a visit here if you
Majete Safari Camp (Map p207; camping US$3, chalets GETTING THERE & AWAY simply want to sample this peaceful and very
LOWER SHIRE per person US$5) is a friendly camp outside the By car, take the main road from Blantyre unusual landscape.
The main road south from Blantyre plunges reserve, just a few kilometres from the gate, south towards Nsanje. By public transport, As mornings and evenings are the best
down the Thyolo Escarpment in a series of overlooking the Shire River and the Matitu take a bus from Blantyre to Nchalo or Nsanje. times to see birds (it’s also not so hot), trav-
hairpin bends to reach the Lower Shire, which Falls, the southernmost of the Shire cataracts. About 20km from the Shire Bridge a signpost ellers without wheels may find it convenient
is a thin spine of Malawian territory jutting The camp has seen better days but the chalets indicates Lengwe National Park to the right. to stay overnight in the village of Makhanga,
into Mozambique. From the escarpment are fair value. The service is relaxed: there’s The park entrance is another 10km to the about 10km northeast of Bangula. The Ma-
road, there are excellent views across the a bar and a kitchen for self-catering, or you west through sugarcane plantations. If you’re khanga Leisure Centre has cheap rooms, and
Shire River floodplains and out towards the can buy meals (US$2 to US$5) if you order without wheels you may be able to hitch this the New Makhanga Restaurant offers cheap
Zambezi on the hazy horizon. Even when it’s long in advance. Motorboat hire for fishing last bit on a tractor. food. If you have a car, you could stay at
cool in the highlands, it can be blisteringly or birding costs US$2 per hour. To reach Sucoma Sports Club, enter the Sucoma Sports Club (left).
hot down here. The sharp change of tem- Majete Safari Camp is 15km north of sugar estate at the main gates in Nchalo, then
perature and landscape, in less than 30km, Chikwawa, on the road to Majete Wildlife follow the signs to the ‘Sports Club’ (not the GETTING THERE & AWAY
is most striking. Reserve. By bus, the nearest you can get is Shire Club). The only way to see the marsh properly is
This is one of the least-visited areas of Chikwawa; there are several per day to/from by boat. The usual way of doing this is to
Malawi, very different from the rest of the Blantyre. From Chikwawa, matola run to Mwabvi Wildlife Reserve hire a boatman and his dugout canoe from
country, and it contains Lengwe National Kapichira village, which is on the eastern In the southernmost tip of Malawi, Mwabvi is the Fisheries Depot at a small village called
Park, the reserves of Majete and Mwabvi, and bank of the Mkurumadzi River (this place has the country’s smallest (under 350 sq km) and Mchacha James on the east side of the marsh,
the Elephant Marsh, a vast area of season- recently grown to house staff from the dam least-visited game reserve, and has a genuine about 7km from Makhanga.
ally flooded swampland. Lengwe, Majete and and power station). wilderness atmosphere. It consists of low hills If you’re driving, head southwest of Blan-
Mwabvi are often overlooked, but slowly their covered by mixed woodland, with numerous tyre for 30km and turn left (east) at Thabwa
infrastructure and facilities are improving so Lengwe National Park streams in rocky gorges and spectacular views (the bottom of the escarpment). Makhanga
this may change in the future. Lengwe is Malawi’s southernmost park. Much over the Shire and Zambezi Rivers. Mwabvi is another 65km or so further south, fol-
of the surrounding area has been turned into was virtually abandoned in the 1980s and lowing the Thyolo Escarpment. From Ma-
Majete Wildlife Reserve sugarcane plantations, but the natural vegeta- early 1990s. Rhinos and lions were once re- khanga, head north towards Muona village.
Majete Wildlife Reserve lies west of the Shire; tion – mixed woodlands and grassy dambo corded here, but apart from a few buffaloes After 2.5km a dirt track leads west for 4.5km
it’s mainly miombo woodland, with dense (wetlands) – is protected here. Mammals in- and nyalas it’s unlikely that any large wildlife through villages and small fields to Mchacha
patches of forest along the river. Animals re- clude nyalas (at the northern limit of their remains today. James. This route is not signposted, so ask for
 226 MA L A W I D I R E C T O R Y • • A c c o m m o d a t i o n lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com MA L A W I D I R E C T O R Y • • B o o k s 227

directions – it may be worth arranging a local as good as or even better than at the pricey You can go fishing in Lake Malawi for era Malawi. It neatly captures life in Africa for
guide in Makhanga. establishments. mpasa (also called lake salmon), ncheni (lake locals and foreigners.
If you’re without wheels, take the bus from Top-end hotels or lodges generally range tiger), sungwa (a type of perch), kampango Malawi – Lake of Stars, by Frank Johnston,
Blantyre that travels to Nchalo and Nsanje. from US$100 to US$250 for a double room, or vundu (both catfish). There are trout features a collection of beautiful photographs
You can get a matola from either of these with facilities such as private bathroom, TV, in streams on Nyika, Zomba and Mulanje with evocative text by Vera Garland.
towns to Makhanga. Alternatively, you can air-con and telephone, and including taxes Plateaus, and tigerfish can be hooked in the Malawi – The Warm Heart of Africa, by
get off this bus at Bangula, then walk 3km to and breakfast. Lower Shire. Frank Johnston and Sandy Ferrar, is a coffee-
the point where the road is washed away, get a The main areas for hiking are Nyika and table book with excellent photography, but
canoe across, and then take a matola through ACTIVITIES Mulanje. Other areas include Zomba and vari- meatier text, focusing largely on Malawi’s grave
Chiromo to Makhanga. From Makhanga, you This section provides only a brief overview of ous smaller peaks around Blantyre. Mulanje environmental issues.
can walk, take a bicycle taxi, rent a bike or what’s available throughout Malawi; for more is Malawi’s main rock-climbing area, and has
charter a matola to Mchacha James. Another information see the relevant sections. some spectacular routes (including the longest Guidebooks
option is to visit the Department of Fisher- Lake Malawi’s population of colourful fish in Africa), although local climbers also visit Malawi, Lonely Planet’s specific guide, gives
ies office in Makhanga, on the Muona road, (see the boxed text, p199) attracts travellers to smaller crags and outcrops. more in-depth coverage of Malawi. Trekking
about 1km west of the train tracks – the staff scuba diving. The lake is reckoned by experts The main area for horse riding is the Nyika in East Africa includes a good section on
here have motorcycles and may be able to help to be among the best freshwater diving areas Plateau, which lends itself perfectly to travel Malawi and is recommended for trekkers
you with a lift to the jetty. in the world – and one of the cheapest places on horseback. You can go on short rides or and hikers.
to learn how to dive. Places where you can hire longer multiday safaris. If you prefer non- Day Outings from Lilongwe and Day Out-

MALAWI DIRECTORY scuba gear and learn to dive include Nkhata

Bay, Cape Maclear, Likoma Island and Senga
Bay, plus Club Makokola and some of the
animated transport, Nyika’s hilly landscape
and good network of dirt tracks are also great
for mountain biking.
ings from Blantyre, both published by the
Wildlife Society of Malawi, are highly rec-
ommended. They are well written and re-
ACCOMMODATION other hotels and camping grounds on the searched, and include suggestions on places
Malawi’s range of places to stay has expanded southern lakeshore. Most hotels and camps BOOKS to visit, things to see and local walks in the
rapidly in the last few years. Several smart new also rent snorkelling equipment. This section covers books specific to Malawi; region. They have an emphasis on wildlife
hotels and lodges have been built along the Many of the more upmarket places along titles on the whole Southern Africa region and cover a surprisingly wide area. The only
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MALAWI
lake and in the national parks. Backpackers the lake have facilities for water-skiing or are covered on p24. Literature by Malawian problem is that they’re aimed mostly at people
are well catered for in lakeshore lodges and windsurfing. You can also go sailing, or join writers is covered on p47. with cars – thereby precluding many travellers
cheap resthouses in towns and villages. Mos- luxurious ‘sail safaris’ where everything is and about 99% of Malawi’s population.
quito nets are fairly important as malaria is a done for you. Canoeing is available at Cape Field Guides Malawi’s National Parks & Game Reserves,
real problem; fortunately most places to stay Maclear and Nkhata Bay. Birds of Malawi: A Supplement to Newman’s by John Hough, covers all parks and reserves
provide nets in their rooms. Birds of Southern Africa, by KB Newman, in the country, with full details of flora and
‘bridges the bird gap’ between species covered fauna occurring in each.
Budget PRACTICALITIES in Southern Africa and East African guides. Lake Malawi’s Resorts, by Ted Sneed, covers
At the budget end of the price range, in almost Cichlids & Other Fishes of Lake Malawi, in detail every place to stay (more than 70) on

Malawi’s main newspapers are the Daily
every town there is a council or government by A Koning, is encyclopaedic – in both size the lakeshore. It took so long to research that
Times, Malawi News and The Nation. The
resthouse. Prices vary from as little as US$1 up and coverage. by the time Ted got to the southern end, some
Chronicle is a smaller publication but
to around US$5 a double, but conditions are Guide to the Fishes of Lake Malawi, by new places had opened in the north!
with a stronger independent voice (read
generally spartan to say the least and down- D Lewis et al, is sometimes called the ‘WWF
relentless criticism of the government).
right disgusting at worst. In national parks guide’ as this organisation was the publisher. History
and along the lakeshore, many places offer
Malawi’s national radio station, the In contrast to Koning’s tome, this guide is Livingstone’s Lake, by Oliver Ransford, a clas-
camping and self-catering chalets or cabins. Malawi Broadcasting Corporation, small, portable and perfect for amateurs, sic book on Lake Malawi and the surrounding
Some camping grounds are pretty basic, while combines music, news and chat shows although not easy to find as it was published countries, was published in the 1960s and is
others have good facilities. in English, Chichewa and some other in 1986. now quite rare.
Backpacker hostels are present in the main local languages. International news is Trees of Malawi, by JS Pullinger & AM Nyasa – A Journal of Adventures, by ED
cities, and numerous in popular lakeshore brief but wide-ranging. There are also Kitchen, is a large-format book with detailed Young, is a local history book written in the
destinations such as Cape Maclear and Nkhata commercial music stations in the large colour illustrations. 1870s (reprinted in 1984); it’s a missionary’s
Bay. Prices range from US$3 for a dorm up to cities. account of the original Livingstonia mission
about US$8 per person for a double or triple.
Malawi’s national TV station was General at Cape Maclear.
Camping is usually about US$1 to US$3. launched in 1999 and consists mostly Between the Cape and Cairo, by artist Tony A Short History of Malawi, by BR Rafael,
of imported programs, news, regional Grogan, is a splendid coffee-table book, with is difficult to find, but the writing is quite
Midrange & Top End music videos and religious programs. a collection of sketches and paintings from all accessible.
Midrange hotels range from about US$25 to International satellite channels are parts of Malawi.
US$75 per double, including taxes, usually available in most midrange and top-end Jungle Lovers, by Paul Theroux, is a light Travel Literature
with private bathroom and breakfast. The hotels. humorous novel, set in a mythical country Venture to the Interior, by Laurens van der
quality of service at a smaller place can be just immediately recognisable to many as Banda- Post, describes the author’s ‘exploration’ of Mt
 228 MA L A W I D I R E C T O R Y • • B u s i n e s s H o u r s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com MA L A W I D I R E C T O R Y • • Fe s t i v a l s & E v e n t s 229

Mulanje and the Nyika Plateau in the 1940s, Bilharzia (Schistosomiasis) UK (%020-7491 4172; 33 Grosvenor St, London W1X 0DE) When one of these dates falls at a weekend,
although in reality this was hardly trailblaz- Bilharzia (or schistosomiasis) is a disease that USA (%202-797 1007; 2408 Massachusetts Ave NW, normally the following Monday is a public
ing stuff. occurs all over Africa. It is transmitted by Washington DC 20008) holiday. Islamic holidays are also observed
minute worms carried by infected humans throughout Malawi by the Muslim popula-
BUSINESS HOURS and water snails (see p770). Although Malawi has no high commission tion.
Offices and shops in the main towns are usu- Although parts of the lake might be very in Australia, it is represented by the Consular
ally open from 8am to 5pm weekdays, with an low risk, in other areas – including some Office, Australian Department of Foreign Affairs INTERNET ACCESS
hour for lunch between noon and 1pm. Many popular tourist destinations – you undoubt- & Trade (%02-6261 3305; John McEwen Cres, Barton, Internet access is available in Lilongwe, Blan-
shops are also open Saturday morning. In edly have a risk of contracting bilharzia. ACT 2600). tyre and Mzuzu. Internet bureaus are also
smaller towns, shops and stalls are open most There’s no need to panic, and no reason to making an appearance elsewhere in the coun-
days, but keep informal hours. Bank hours are avoid coming to the lake – but you should be Embassies & Consulates in Malawi try but tend to be more expensive. Some hotels
usually from 8am to 3.30pm weekdays. Post aware of the risk. The following countries have diplomatic and lodges will let guests send or receive email
and telephone offices are usually open from If you do decide to swim, and you do con- representation in Malawi. for a nominal fee.
7.30am to 5pm weekdays, sometimes with a tract bilharzia, you might suffer from some Canada (Map p213; %01-651450; Accord Centre,
break for lunch. In Blantyre and Lilongwe, symptoms almost immediately, in which case Limbe) INTERNET RESOURCES
they also open Saturday morning. you should seek treatment fast. But usually Germany (Map p169; %01-772555; Convention Dr, City Malawi Ministry of Tourism, Parks and Wildlife
symptoms do not show until the disease is Centre, Lilongwe) (www.tourismmalawi.com) A comprehensive resource for
CHILDREN well established – and this can be weeks or Mozambique Embassy (Map p169; %01-774100; Con- all things tourism in Malawi.
Malawi isn’t awash with childcare facilities or months after exposure. Long-term effects can vention Dr, City Centre, Lilongwe); Consulate (Map p213; Malawi/Cities.Com (www.malawi.com) A glossy and
formal children’s activities. However, many of be very harmful so it is essential that you have %643189; 1st fl, Celtel Bldg, Rayner Ave, Limbe) informative site with some useful links.
the beach lodges have family rooms, and some a check-up for the disease when you get home South Africa (Map p169; %01-773722, sahe@malawi Malawi.Net (www.malawi.net) This has links to sites of
of the bigger hotels in Lilongwe and Blantyre or reach a place with good medical services. .net; Kang’ombe Bldg, City Centre, Lilongwe) local newspapers and political parties.
provide babysitting services. Disposable nap- UK High Commission (Map p169; %01-772400; City
pies and formula are widely available in super- Wildlife Centre, Lilongwe); Consulate (Map p215; Hanover Ave, LANGUAGE
markets and speciality shops in Lilongwe, Potential dangers at Lake Malawi include Blantyre) English is the official language and very widely
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MALAWI
Blantyre and Mzuzu but can be difficult to encountering a hippo or crocodile, but for USA (Map p169; %01-773166; Convention Dr, City spoken. The different ethnic groups in Malawi
find elsewhere. travellers the chances of being attacked are Centre, Lilongwe) also have their own languages or dialects.
extremely remote. Crocodiles tend to be very Zambia (Map p169; %01-772590; Convention Dr, City The Chewa are the dominant group and
CUSTOMS wary of humans and are generally found only Centre, Lilongwe) Chichewa is the national language, widely
There aren’t any restrictions on the amount in quiet vegetated areas around river mouths Zimbabwe (Map p169; %01-774997; City Centre, used throughout the country as a common
of foreign currency that tourists can bring (although they may sometimes be washed Lilongwe) Off Independence Dr. tongue. The ‘Chi’ prefix simply signifies ‘lan-
into or take out of Malawi. The import or into the lake by floodwater). Therefore you guage of’. Of all the other languages spoken,
export of more than MK300 is technically should be careful if you’re walking along the FESTIVALS & EVENTS Tumbuka is dominant in the north and Yao in
forbidden, however a small amount shouldn’t lakeshore and have to wade a river. Popular The Lake of Stars Malawi Music Festival (www.lake the south. See p775 for some useful words and
be a problem. tourist beaches are safe, although, just to be ofstarsfestival.co.uk) takes place each September phrases in Chichewa, Tumbuka and Yao.
sure, you should seek local advice before div- at Chintheche (p191) and attracts live music
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES ing in. The most dangerous animals in Malawi acts from around Africa and the UK. It last MAPS
Crime are the mosquitoes that transmit malaria. sfor three days, and proceeds go to the charity Useful maps, available in local bookshops,
Unfortunately, reports of travellers being Children in the Wilderness. include the government-produced Malawi
robbed in Lilongwe and Blantyre have in- EMBASSIES & CONSULATES (1:1,000,000), showing shaded relief features
creased. However, incidents are still rare Malawian Embassies & Consulates HOLIDAYS and most roads, and the Malawi Road & Tour-
compared with other countries, and violence Malawi has diplomatic missions in the follow- Public holidays in Malawi: ist Map (same scale), showing all main roads,
is not the norm. Some safety advice is given ing African countries: Kenya, Mozambique, New Year’s Day 1 January some minor roads and national parks (but no
in the Lilongwe and Blantyre sections. There South Africa, Tanzania, Zambia and Zim- John Chilembwe Day 15 January relief) plus street maps of the main towns.
have also been robberies at popular lakeshore babwe (embassies in the countries covered Martyrs’ Day 3 March For more detail, government survey maps
areas such as Cape Maclear and Nkhata Bay, in this book are listed in the relevant coun- Easter March/April – Good Friday, Holy Saturday and (1:50,000 and 1:250,000) are available from
but here violence is very rare. try chapters). Elsewhere around the world, Easter Monday the Department of Surveys Map Sales Offices
Scams to be aware of if you’re buying curios Malawian embassies include the following: Labour Day 1 May in Blantyre and Lilongwe. Specific maps and
are the eager young men who offer to wrap Canada (%613-236 8931; 7 Clemow Ave, Ottawa, Freedom Day 14 June guidebooks on national parks and hiking areas
your purchase in paper and cardboard, then Ontario KIS 2A9) Republic Day 6 July are detailed under the listings for these areas.
want more for this job than you paid for the France (%01 4070 1846; 20 Rue Euler, 75008 Paris) Mother’s Day October – second Monday
carving. Also on the economic front, beware Germany (%49 228 343 016; Mainzerstrasse 124, National Tree Planting Day December – second MONEY
of locals asking you to break a US$100 bill 53179 Bonn) Monday Malawi’s unit of currency is the Malawi
into US$10 bills and US$20 bills. Naturally, Tanzania (%255 22 113 239; 6th fl, Nic Life House, Dar Christmas Day 25 December kwacha (MK). The kwacha is divided into
the US$100 bill is a fake. es Salaam) Boxing Day 26 December 100 tambala (t).
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Bank notes include MK200, MK100, MK50, although you will need to show them the the two major networks are Celtel and Tel- Applications can be made between 8am and 4.30pm
MK20, MK10 and MK5. Coins include MK1, original purchase receipt. You can sometimes ekom. Sim cards are readily available from (closed between 12.30pm and 2pm) on Monday and
50t, 20t, 10t, 5t and 1t, although the small use travellers cheques to pay at large hotels electronic stores, internet cafés and dedicated Tuesday, or Wednesday morning and passport collection is
tambala coins are virtually worthless. and lodges. mobile-phone stores. They cost around US$5 on Friday only, between 8am and noon.
Inflation is high in Malawi, so quoting and include another US$3 to US$4 dollars
costs in MK is not helpful, as prices may have PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEO worth of airtime. You can buy top-up cards Visa Extensions
changed significantly by the time you arrive. General aspects of photography in the re- at supermarkets, internet cafés, petrol stations You can get an extension on your visa at im-
Therefore we have used US dollars (US$) gion are covered on p747. In Malawi film and and roadside booths, and they come in US$2, migration offices in Blantyre or Lilongwe
throughout this chapter. Although the actual camera parts are generally available only in US$5 and US$10 denominations. or at regional police stations. The process is
exchange rate will have changed by the time Blantyre and Lilongwe. straightforward and free.
you reach Malawi, the cost of things in US In the cities, Fuji or Konika 100 ASA 36- Phone Codes
dollars (or any other hard currency) should exposure print film costs about US$3.50 and The international code for Malawi if you’re VOLUNTEERING
not have altered as much. At big hotels and developing and printing costs about US$9 for dialling from abroad is %265. Malawi has some great, grassroots volunteer-
other places that actually quote in US dollars 24 exposures or US$12 for 36. Two passport Malawi does not have area codes, but all ing opportunities in Nkhata Bay (p189), the
you can pay in hard currency or kwacha at the pictures will cost you around US$5. landline numbers begin with %01, so what- Chintheche Strip (p191), Monkey Bay (p200)
prevailing exchange rate. ever number you dial within the country will and Cape Maclear (p203).
POST have eight digits. Numbers starting with 7 are
ATMs
Stanbic and National Bank ATMs accept for-
eign cards and are found in most cities and
Post in and out of Malawi is a bit of a lottery.
Some letters get from Lilongwe to London
in three days, others take three weeks. Mail
on the Lilongwe exchange; those starting with
6 are in Blantyre, although this will be slowly
changing to 8 over the next couple of years;
TRANSPORT IN MALAWI
towns including Lilongwe, Blantyre, Mzuzu, from Lilongwe or Blantyre to Cape Town 5 is around Zomba; 4 is the south; 3 is the GETTING THERE & AWAY
Karonga, Liwonde, Salima and Zomba. often takes a month. In rural areas, the post north; and 2 is the Salima area. This section covers access to Malawi from
can be very slow. Post offices in Blantyre and neighbouring countries only. Information
Black Market Lilongwe have poste restante services. TOURIST INFORMATION about reaching Southern Africa from else-
There’s no real black market in Malawi. You To African destinations, letters less than 10g There are tourist offices in Lilongwe (p170) and where on the African continent and from
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MALAWI
may get one or two kwacha more for your dol- and postcards cost US$0.60. To Europe, India, Blantyre (p214), and an office at the Ministry of other continents is outlined on p752.
lar on the street, but the chance of robberies or Pakistan and the Middle East it’s US$0.90 and Wildlife and Tourism in Lilongwe (p170). Out-
cons (or fake US$50 and US$100 bills) means to the Americas, Japan or Australasia postage side Malawi, tourism promotion is handled by Air
that the risk is not really worth taking com- is US$1. It’s quicker (and probably more reli- UK-based Malawi Tourism (%0115-982 1903; fax 0115- Malawi’s main airport for international flights
pared to going to a bank or exchange bureau. able) to use the EMS Speedpost service at post 981 9418; www.malawitourism.com), which responds to is at Lilongwe. It has a pharmacy, a post office,
offices. Letters up to 500g cost US$5 to Europe inquiries from all over the world. a bookshop, banks and car hire desks, plus a
Credit Cards and US$7 to Australia and the USA. restaurant and bar overlooking the runway
You can get cash with a Visa card at Stanbic For airmail parcels it costs about US$10 plus VISAS where you can use up the last of your kwacha
Bank and the National Bank of Malawi in US$3 per kilo to send items outside Africa. Visas are not needed by citizens of Com- before flying out (although beware of waiters
Blantyre and Lilongwe. The charge is around Surface mail is cheaper. monwealth countries, the USA and most overcharging).
US$5 and it can take several hours. You’re best European nations (except Switzerland). Visas There is also an airport at Blantyre, which
off going to a foreign exchange bureau that will TELEPHONE are limited to 30 days, although extensions is mostly served by regional and domestic
provide the same service for around US$3 and International calls (to destinations outside are easy to get. flights. It has a small cafeteria, a bookshop
complete the transaction on the spot. Africa) from public phone offices cost around and an Avis desk.
You can use Visa cards at some but not all US$4 per minute. Cheaper rates are tech- Visas for Onward Travel
of the large hotels and top-end restaurants nically available from 6pm Friday to 7am If you need visas for neighbouring countries SOUTHERN AFRICA
(be warned that this may add a 5% to 10% Monday, but this often doesn’t translate at while in Malawi, these are the conditions. Air Malawi (www.airmalawi.net) has a pretty good
surcharge to your bill). It seems even harder phone bureaus. Mozambique Visas are available in Lilongwe and Limbe; regional network, with three flights a week to
to use a MasterCard. If you usually rely on Telephone calls within Malawi are inexpen- both offices are open from 8am to noon weekdays. One- Harare, and two flights a week to both Lusaka
plastic, you’re better off using it to draw out sive – around US$0.30 per minute depending month single-entry visas cost US$15 and take four working and Johannesburg (Jo’burg). The following
cash and paying with that. on the distance – and the network between days to issue, but you can pay extra to have it issued in regional airlines also serve Malawi, usually
main cities is reliable, although the lines to one day. flying on the days Air Malawi doesn’t (so you
Tipping outlying areas are often not working. Calls to South Africa Visas are free and take two days to issue.
Tipping is not generally expected in Malawi, mobiles within Malawi cost around US$0.50 The high commission in Lilongwe is open from 8am to
as many restaurants and services will add on per minute. Public phones (called ‘booths’) noon weekdays. DEPARTURE TAX
a service charge to your bill. take new MK1 coins only. Tanzania There is no Tanzanian representation in Malawi, For travellers flying out, the airport depar-
but visas are administered at the border or on arrival at the ture tax for international flights is US$20,
Travellers Cheques Mobile Phones airport, and cost US$50. payable in US dollars in cash. No other cur-
You can change travellers cheques at most Mobile phones are used everywhere in Malawi. Zambia The cost of a single-entry visa depends on your rency is accepted.
major banks and foreign exchange bureaus, Mobile phone prefixes are %08 or %09 and nationality: Brits pay US$60; all others pay US$30.
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get a wider choice of flights), with fares mostly son to Mocuba (US$4), where you can find Nayuchi (where there are moneychangers) and you’re better off doing the trip in stages.
on a par: Air Zimbabwe (www.airzimbabwe.com) flies transport on to Quelimane or Nampula. you can walk to Entre Lagos, but transport There is no specific office so ask at the Tanza-
three times per week to/from Harare (with Further north, minibuses and matola run from here into Mozambique is limited. nian bus ticket office for information. Regular
connections to Victoria Falls and other parts a few times per day between Mangochi and minibuses run between Lilongwe and Mchinji
of Southern Africa); and South African Airways Namwera (US$2), where there are resthouses. SOUTH AFRICA (US$2). From here, it’s 12km to the border.
(www.flysaa.com) flies twice per week to/from You can also get a bicycle taxi for the remain- If you need to get to South Africa quickly and Local shared taxis shuttle between Mchinji
Jo’burg (with connections to Durban, Cape ing 10km to the border crossing at Chiponde cheaply, City to City (%09-937499) and Translux and the border post for around US$1.50 per
Town etc). (US$3). If you get stuck at Namwera, you can (%09-937499) run direct luxury coaches from person, or US$8 for the whole car.
Kenya Airways (www.kenya-airways.com) flies four take a bicycle taxi to Chiponde (US$3). It’s 7km Blantyre to Jo’burg every day between them, From the Zambian side of the border cross-
times per week to/from Nairobi. to the Mozambique border crossing at Man- for US$40 to US$50. Vaal Africa (%01-621265) ing, shared taxis run to Chipata (US$2), which
Ethiopian Airways (www.flyethiopian.com) flies four dimba and the best way to get there is by bicycle also operates a service between Blantyre and is about 30km west of the border, from where
times a week from Addis Ababa. taxi (US$2). Mandimba has a couple of pensãos, Jo’burg on Tuesday and Sunday for US$80. All you can reach Lusaka or South Luangwa
Ulendo Air Services (%01-754717/950; air-services@ and there’s at least one vehicle daily, usually a companies depart at 9am, arriving in Jo’burg National Park (for more details see p661).
ulendo.malawi.net) has flights from Lilongwe to truck, between here and Cuamba (US$4). around mid-afternoon the next day. Ingwe
Mfuwe in Zambia (US$220) and to Living- The third option is to go by minibus from (%01-622313, 829879) runs services to Jo’burg on ZIMBABWE
stone in Zambia (US$320). Liwonde to the border at Nayuchi (US$3). Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday for US$86. Although Zimbabwe doesn’t border Malawi,
You can walk to the Mozambique border many travellers go directly between the two
Border Crossings post at Entre Lagos and possibly to hitch to TANZANIA countries. The cheapest option is the daily
MOZAMBIQUE Cuamba. Be warned, though, hat there’s very If you want to go the whole way between Munorurama Bus (%01-6248735), between Blan-
South little transport of any sort on this route so you Lilongwe and Dar es Salaam, two buses a week tyre and Harare (US$15). The bus departs
The quickest way to reach Mozambique south could be waiting a long time; the Mandimba (Tuesday and Saturday) depart from Devil St from opposite the Chileka Rd bus station at
of the Zambezi is to take a minibus to the crossing is a better option. in Lilongwe. There’s a ticket office where you 7.30am and arrives in Harare by late after-
Mozambique border crossing at Zóbuè (zob- can book; fares are US$33. If you’re travelling noon. The service in this direction is good,
way; US$2.50) and then a minibus to Tete Boat from the south, your first sight of a Tanzanian and on Wednesday and Saturday it continues
(US$1.50), from where buses go to Beira and The Lake Malawi steamboat Ilala (see p234) bus – like something from the movie Mad all the way to Jo’burg (US$38). Travelling
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MALAWI
Maputo. You could also get a Blantyre–Harare stops at both Cóbuè (kob-way) and Metan- Max or the worst carnival ride you’ve ever from Harare to Blantyre costs the same, but is
bus to drop you at Tete and then get a bus to gula on the Mozambican mainland. If you’re had – may be quite a shock. These buses also a much slower trip because local people bring
Beira or Maputo. planning a visit you must get your passport pick up and drop off in Mzuzu and Mbeya in loads of Zimbabwean goods and there are
stamped at the immigration post in Chipyela (Tanzania) and are handy for going between big searches at the border. Some travellers
Central (the main village) on Likoma Island. For short northern Malawi and southern Tanzania. have been on the northbound bus for over
If you are heading for central Mozambique, visits, you can pay US$1.30 for a lakeshore If you’re going in stages, buses and mini- two days! If you do get interminably stuck
there are several buses per day from Blantyre to pass, which enables you to spend 10 days on buses run between Mzuzu and Karonga at the Mwanza border crossing, you’re better
Nsanje (US$2.80), or all the way to the Malawi the Mozambican lakeshore only (you must (US$4, 3½ hours), from where minibuses and off abandoning the big bus and getting a local
border at Marka (ma-ra-ka; US$3.30). It’s a return to Malawi). matola travel to the Songwe border crossing minibus to Blantyre (US$2.50).
few kilometres between the border crossings – Another way to get to the Mozambican (US$1.30). It’s 200m across the bridge to the
you can walk or take a bicycle taxi – and you lakeshore is to take a dhow (local sailing boat) Tanzanian border crossing. GETTING AROUND
can change money on the Mozambique side. from Likoma Island to Cóbuè (US$0.80). A Once you’re on the Tanzanian side of the You can travel around Malawi by air, road,
From here pick-ups go to Mutarara, Nhami- road connecting Cóbuè and Metangula is border, minibuses and bicycle taxis travel the rail or boat. Compared to other countries in
labue and Vila de Sena. scheduled for upgrading, so you may be able 5km distance to Kyela, from where you can the region, distances between major centres
to hitch a ride. Alternatively, you could do this get a bus to Dar es Salaam. You can change are quite short, and generally roads and public
North section by boat (often on the same boat that money with the bicycle taxi boys but beware transport systems are quite good, making
There are three border crossings from Malawi brought you over from Likoma). A motorboat of scams. independent travel fairly straightforward.
into northern Mozambique: Muloza, from (US$5) takes six hours and a dhow (US$2.50)
where you can reach Mocuba in Mozambique, can take one or two days, so bring your own Boat Air
and Nayuchi and Chiponde, both of which food and water. The Songeya ferry sails between Mbamba Bay For domestic flights, departure tax is US$2.
lead to Cuamba in Mozambique. For more information on the Mozambique in Tanzania and Nkhata Bay on Malawi’s
Regular buses run from Blantyre, via Mu- side of Lake Malawi, see p284. northern lakeshore every Saturday. The jour- AIRLINES IN MALAWI
lanje, to Muloza (US$2). From here, you walk ney takes 3½ hours, and the fares for 1st-/ Fares for all vary according to the number of
1km to the Mozambique border crossing at Train economy-class deck are US$11/6.50. Cabins people in your group, so contact these com-
Milange, from where it’s another few kilo- If you’re heading to northern Mozambique, a are also available; children travel for US$3. panies direct for more details.
metres into Milange vila (town) itself. There’s passenger train departs Limbe on Wednesdays Air Malawi (%01-772123, 753181, 788415; www
a pensão (cheap hotel) and bank here if you at 7am, travelling via Balaka and Liwonde to ZAMBIA .airmalawi.com) Has daily flights between Lilongwe and Blan-
need them. From Milange there’s usually a Nayuchi. The fare from Limbe to Nayuchi is There are three direct buses per week be- tyre, and four flights a week between Lilongwe and Mzuzu,
chapa (pick-up or converted minibus) or US$3.30, but it’s more popular to get on at tween Lilongwe and Lusaka (US$25), also both for US$77 one way. You can also fly from Lilongwe or
truck about every other day in the dry sea- Liwonde, from where it costs US$2. From departing from Devil St, but it’s a long haul Blantyre to Lake Malawi’s Club Makokola for US$75 (you don’t
 234 T R A N S P O R T I N MA L A W I • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T R A N S P O R T I N MA L A W I • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d 235

have to be a guest), from where you can reach other points on The Ilala has three classes. Cabin Class was Mzuzu and Blantyre for details). There’s and also vary. Some are well maintained and
the lake. Domestic flights can be paid for in kwacha. Air once luxurious and the cabins are still in rea- a daily express service operated between easy to drive on in a normal car; others are
Malawi’s booking system is not always reliable, so be sonable condition. The spacious First Class Lilongwe and Mzuzu by Sacremento Bus. very bad, especially after rain, and slow even
prepared for lost reservations or double bookings. Deck is most popular with travellers, due You can’t reserve in advance, but these are with 4WD. Rural routes are not so good, and
Nyika Safari Company (%01-330180; www.nyika largely to the sociable bar, around which you more comfortable than other express buses, after heavy rain they are often impassable,
.com) Mainly services Nyika National Park, but often has are likely to meet a new soulmate or two. with comfortable reclining seats and music. sometimes for weeks.
promotional offers to other Malawian destinations. There are also seats, a shaded area and mat- Other buses, also operated by Shire Bus Lines, If you’re bringing a car into Malawi from
Ulendo Air Services (%01-754717; air-services@ tresses for hire (US$2) in case you’re doing fall under the category of express – fast buses any other country without a carnet, a tempor-
ulendo.malawi.net) Has charter and seat only flights to the long-haul journey. Economy covers the between the main towns with limited stops ary import permit costs US$2.50 (payable in
major destinations around the country. entire lower deck and is dark and crowded, and no standing passengers allowed – and kwacha) and compulsory third-party insur-
and engine fumes permeate from below. ordinary, which cover long-distance routes ance is US$25 for one month. There’s also a
Bicycle Cabin and First Class Deck passengers can but stop everywhere, so are very slow. US$20 road tax fee – you must produce the
Bicycles are available for hire at many lodges dine in the ship’s restaurant, where a beef All journey durations for ordinary buses documentation for this if you are driving the
throughout Malawi. You can also hire bicycles curry, peri-peri chicken or meal of similar in this chapter are best estimates of the real car out. When you leave Malawi, a permit
or arrange mountain bike tours through Land standard costs US$5. Food is also served from length, which is usually double the official handling fee of US$3 is payable. Receipts
& Lake Safaris (p170). a galley on the Economy Deck; a meal of length. There are also many private buses are issued.
beans, rice and vegetables costs under US$1. and minibuses on the roads, either slotting
Boat Reservations are usually required for Cabin in between Shire bus services or serving the DRIVING LICENCE
The Ilala ferry (%01-587311; ilala@malawi.net) chugs Class. For other classes, tickets are sold only routes they don’t. Fares are about the same You need a full driver’s licence (international
passengers and cargo up and down Lake when the boat is sighted. However, there’s as express buses, or slightly more, depending diving licence is not necessary), which nor-
Malawi once per week in each direction. Trav- no question of anyone being refused – it on the route. There are also local minibus mally requires a minimum age of 23 and one
elling between Monkey Bay in the south and just keeps filling up! If you travel Economy services around towns and to outlying vil- year’s driving experience.
Chilumba in the north, it makes 13 stops at Class, you can visit the First Class Deck to lages, or along the roads that the big buses
lakeside villages and towns in between. (You buy a beer, but you’ll have to pay extra for can’t manage. (In Malawi vehicles with about FUEL & SPARE PARTS
can get to the Mozambique mainland via the the privilege. 30 seats are called ‘half-buses’ to distinguish Fuel costs around US$1 per litre for petrol
MALAWI

MALAWI
Ilala; see p232.) Many travellers rate this jour- them from big buses and minibuses.) and US$0.80 per litre for diesel. Supplies are
ney as a highlight of the country, although there SAMPLE ROUTES & FARES In rural areas, the frequency of buses and usually reliable and distances between towns
are occasionally nasty storms. If you’re unlucky, All of the following sample fares are from minibuses drops dramatically – sometimes to with filling stations are not long in Malawi,
be prepared for some pitching and rolling. Nkhata Bay. nothing. In cases like this, the ‘bus’ is often a so you rarely need to worry about running
The whole trip, from one end of the line to truck or pick-up, with people just piled in the dry. Spare parts are available in Lilongwe,
the other, takes about three days. The official Destination Cabin 1st class Economy back. In Malawi this is called a matola. Blantyre and Mzuzu.
schedules are detailed in the table (only selected (US$) (US$) (US$)
ports are shown). COSTS HIRE
Likoma Island 20 11 5 As a rule of thumb, express buses charge be- Most car hire companies are based in Blantyre
Northbound port Arrival Departure Metangula 33 20 6 tween US$1.50 and US$2.50 per 100km, and and Lilongwe. Those with offices in more than
Ruarwe 18 10 4 ordinary buses slightly less. In rural areas one city can arrange pick-up-drop-off deals.
Monkey Bay – 10am (Fri) Monkey Bay 50 35 10 there are also local services that cover the International names include Avis, and there
Chipoka 1pm 4pm (Fri) quieter routes and tend to be slow and are several independent outfits. You should
Nkhotakota 12am 2am (Sat) When the Ilala stops at lakeside towns or vil- crowded. Everyone pays a fare to the driver – shop around as companies often have special
Metangula 6am 8am (Sat) lages, the water is too shallow for it to come normally a bit more than a bus would charge deals and some will negotiate. You can also
Likoma Island 1.30pm 6pm (Sat) close; the lifeboat is used to ferry passengers (ie around US$3 per 100km). hire a car through a travel agent – they may
Nkhata Bay 1am 5am (Sun) ashore. On its southbound journey, the Ilala have access to special deals. Whoever you
Ruarwe 10.15am 11.15am (Sun) docks at Nkhata Bay for seven hours and RESERVATIONS hire from, be prepared for a car that is not up
Chilumba 5pm (Sun) – traders come aboard, selling food, drinks and You can buy a ticket in advance for Coachline to Western standards. Check the tyres and as
newspapers. services and are allocated a reserved seat; a much else as you can. If anything is worn or
Southbound port Arrival Departure week’s notice is sometimes needed, particu- broken, demand repairs or a discount.
Bus & Minibus larly for Friday and Sunday services. Self-drive rates for a small car with unlim-
Chilumba – 1am (Mon) CLASSES ited mileage start at around US$70 per day.
Ruarwe 6.45am 8am (Mon) There are three options for bus travel in Car & Motorcycle To this add 20% government tax, plus another
Nkhata Bay 12.45pm 8pm (Mon) Malawi. Top of the range is Coachline, oper- The majority of main routes are mostly good- US$3 to US$7 a day for insurance.
Likoma Island 3.15am 6.15am (Tue) ated by Shire Bus Lines (%01-756226). This luxury quality sealed roads, but in recent years several Rental companies in Malawi include the
Metangula 12.00pm 2.00pm (Tue) nonstop service with air-con, toilet, snacks, stretches of road have not been repaired and following:
Nkhotakota 5.30pm 7.30pm (Tue) steward service and good drivers travels three potholes are opening up. In some areas these Avis (%in Lilongwe 01-756103, 756105, in Blantyre
Chipoka 3.30am 7.30am (Wed) times a day between Blantyre and Lilongwe have made driving slow, difficult and danger- 692368) Also has offices at Lilongwe and Blantyre airports
Monkey Bay 10.30am (Wed) – (see Getting There & Away under Lilongwe, ous. Secondary roads are usually graded dirt and at some large hotels.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
236 T R A N S P O R T I N MA L A W I • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com 237

Ceciliana Car Hire (%01-643206; Blantyre) Kayak Africa (%09-942661; www.kayakafrica.net)

Sputnik Car Hire (%01-761563, 08 823139; Lilongwe) Based in Cape Maclear, it offers guided one-, two- or
SS rent-a-car (%in Lilongwe 01-751478, in Blantyre three-night island-hopping kayak tours from US$130 per
622836) person per night. The charge includes tented accommoda-
tion, meals, snorkel gear and park fees. It also operates
INSURANCE PADI open-water courses for US$250.
Third-party insurance is a requirement for all Kiboko Safaris (%01-751226; www.kiboko-safaris
drivers, but this can be arranged through car .com) Specialises in budget tours; fully inclusive and four-
hire companies or purchased at border posts. day trips to South Luangwa cost US$325.
Monkey Business (%01-352342; info@njayalodge
ROAD RULES .com; Nkhata Bay) Offers excellent kayak excursions along
Malawians drive on the left, and seat belts are the northern lakeshore. Typical itineraries include idyllic
compulsory. Speed limits are 80km per hour spots such as Usisya and Ruarwe, or spectacular trips to
on main roads and 60km in built-up areas. Likoma and Chizumulu Islands. Journeys are broken by
stopovers at fishing villages and empty beaches, and
Tours these trips are a great way to explore the area. Tours cost
Several companies organise tours around the from US$30 per person per day (you can design you own
country, ranging from a few days to three itinerary ranging from two to seven days), which includes
weeks. Trips into Zambia or Mozambique are meals, kayaks, guides and tents. It also arranges one-day
also available, although Malawi’s safari scene Kayak-Bushwalk-Dive tours for US$40 per person.
is much smaller than, say, South Africa’s or Nyika Safari Company (%01-330180; www.nyika
Zimbabwe’s. Tours may be ‘mobile’ (ie moving .com) Operates purely indulgent horseback safaris on the
from camp to camp every few days) or based Nyika Plateau from US$320 per person per day, which in-
in one place, with excursions each day. Most cludes all meals, rides and accommodation in luxury safari © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally

T H U M B TA B
are vehicle-based, although some outfits also tents (hot showers and all!) or at the luxurious Chelinda restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
MALAWI

organise walking trips, horseback safaris, or Lodge. These tours operate only between May and October
boating on the lake. Tours normally include and last anywhere from two to 10 days.
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
transport, accommodation and food, but prices Red Zebra Tours (%01-263165; www.lakemalawi everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
vary considerably according to standards – .com) Based in Senga Bay, it specialises in diving and lake the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
from budget to luxury. There are only a few safaris with an experienced guide.
budget companies that can arrange tours on Wilderness Safaris (%01-771393; info@wilderness
the spot – most prefer advance bookings, al- .malawi.net; Bisnowaty Service Centre, Kenyatta Rd,
though sometimes a couple of days is enough. Lilongwe) Operates all accommodation and facilities in
Budget tours usually cost between US$30 and Liwonde National Park. It can also arrange flights, air
US$50 per day. Most midrange and top-end charters, car hire and mid- to top-end safaris to South
companies also need advance bookings, and Luangwa National Park in Zambia, starting from US$500
charge from US$80 per person per day, easily per person all inclusive.
climbing to US$200 per day or more.
The following is a list of major tour opera- Train
tors in Malawi, with a variety of budgets to Trains run every Wednesday between Blantyre
suit most wallets. and Balaka (US$1.50), but passengers rarely
Barefoot Safaris (%01-707346; www.barefoot use them as road transport on this route is
-safaris.com) Offers budget and midrange tours, mostly quicker and cheaper. The service of most use
geared towards wildlife watching in Malawi, Zambia and to travellers is the continuation of this line
Tanzania. It also arranges good walking tours, encompass- from Liwonde to the Malawi–Mozambique
ing Lengwe National Park, Mt Mulanje, Liwonde National border crossing at Nayuchi (US$2). For de-
Park and Lake Malawi. Whether you’re walking or viewing, tails, see p232.
tours cost from US$85 per person per day and include all The twice-weekly train service between
meals and accommodation. Limbe and Nsanje (US$2), in the far south
Jambo-Africa (%01-823709; www.jambo-africa.com) of Malawi, is popular as the line reaches
Based at the Mount Soche Hotel in Blantyre. They offer areas where road transport is limited. Since
tours to Lengwe National Park for US$385 per person and a bridge washed away in 1998, trains termi-
Mt Mulanje hiking packages from US$230 for three days. nate at Makhanga.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
237

Mozambique
With its stunning beaches, magical offshore islands, excellent diving, fascinating cultures
and charming waterside capital, Mozambique is one of the region’s best-kept secrets. The
dark war days are well in the past, and the country is now firmly part of the Southern Africa
travellers’ loop, yet enough off the beaten track to be satisfyingly adventurous.

Laze under the palms or go snorkelling around the islands of the Bazaruto Archipelago,
sail on a dhow through mangrove channels in the Quirimbas Archipelago, take an off-beat
safari in the wilds of Gorongosa National Park, wander past stately colonial-era churches on
Ilha de Moçambique, sip a café espresso at one of Maputo’s lively sidewalk cafés (or maybe
a caipirinha at one of its jazz bars), watch Makonde sculptors bring blocks of hard wood
to life or dance to the country’s trademark marrabenta music. In contrast to its more strait-
laced neighbours – all former British colonies or protectorates – Mozambique’s modern face
reflects a unique fusion of African, Arabic, Indian and Portuguese influences. Its cuisine is
spicier, its rhythms more tropical and its pace more laid-back.

While infrastructure is less developed and more expensive than in most other countries
in the region, especially South Africa, reconstruction has proceeded at a remarkable pace
and tourism is off to an ambitious start.

The easiest introduction is in the south, where roads are good and accommodation options
abound. Elsewhere, allow time for getting around and be prepared to rough it. Wherever
you go, get here soon, before the rest of the world wakes up to Mozambique’s charms.

MOZAMBIQUE
FAST FACTS

Area: 801,590 sq km

Capital: Maputo

Country code: %258

Famous for: Ilha de Moçambique, mar-
rabenta music, Makonde woodcarvings

Languages: Portuguese, various African
languages

Money: Metical nova famiĺia (Mtc)

Phrases: Bom dia (good morning);
obrigado/a (thank you – m/f )

Population: 19.7 million
 238 M O Z A M B I Q U E • • H i g h l i g h t s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com M O Z A M B I Q U E • • H i s t o r y 239

but now you’ll have time for an excur- years ago when Portuguese explorer Vasco da In the early 20th century, expansion of
HOW MUCH? sion to the Quirimbas Archipelago (p288). Gama landed at Ilha de Moçambique in 1498 the nearby Witwatersrand gold mines and

Plate of grilled prawns US$12 Fly back to Maputo, or continue over- en route to India. Over the next 200 years, the oppressive Portuguese labour laws led to a
land or by air to Tanzania. Alternatively: Portuguese established trading enclaves along mass labour migration from southern Mozam-

Single-day dive US$40-50
combine the southern and northern one- the coast and several settlements in the inte- bique to South Africa and Rhodesia (now

Short taxi ride US$2 week itineraries. rior along the Zambezi River Valley. Trade – Zimbabwe). A rail line was built between

Daytime dhow safari US$45
One Month Follow the previous itineraries’ fuelled by oft-overblown tales of legendary Beira and Mutare (Rhodesia), and the Por-

Maputo–Inhambane bus fare US$9
southern routings, but adding Ponta d’Ouro riches in the interior – focused first on ivory, tuguese moved their capital south from Ilha
(p256) or Maputo Special Reserve (p258), and then on gold. By the late 18th century, de Moçambique to Lourenço Marques, as
LONELY PLANET INDEX or perhaps another beach or two. From slaves had been added to this list. Mozambican Maputo was then known.
Vilankulo, continue by bus or air to Beira ports became one of the continent’s main slave In the late 1920s António Salazar took the

1L of petrol US$1 (p268) for a detour to Gorongosa National channels, with hundreds of thousands (some reins in Portugal, and sealed off the colonies

1L of bottled water US$0.70 Park (p270), or go straight to Nampula estimates say as high as a million) of Africans from non-Portuguese investment. Over the
and Ilha de Moçambique. Continue with sold through them into slavery. next three decades, the numbers of Portu-

Bottle of 2M beer US$1
the northern two-week itinerary. Alterna- Beginning in the 17th century, the Por- guese in Mozambique steadily increased, as

Souvenir T-shirt US$10 tively go by train or plane from Nampula tuguese divided much of the interior into did repression by the colonial administration.

Plate of xima and sauce US$1 to Cuamba (p282), and then to Lichinga prazos – vast agricultural estates, nominally There was not even a pretence of social invest-
(p283), beautiful Lake Niassa (p284) and under the Portuguese crown, but actually ment in the African population, and of the
on to Malawi via the Ilala ferry. run as private fiefdoms with their own slave few schools and hospitals that did exist, most
HIGHLIGHTS armies. Yet there was little cohesion to the were in the cities and reserved for Portuguese,

Bazaruto Archipelago (p267) The quintes- CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO Portuguese ventures, and they never managed other whites and asimilados (Africans who
sential tropical paradise with turquoise Sunshine, blue skies and temperatures averag- to get the grip over their vast hinterlands that assimilated to European ways).
and jade waters full of colourful fish. ing between 24°C and 27°C along the coast they sought.

Ilha de Moçambique (p278) Quiet, cobbled are the norm, except during the wet sum- The Independence Struggle Begins
streets lined with colonial-era buildings, mer season from about December/January Colonial Era Repression In June 1960, at Mueda in northern Mozam-
and a surreal time-warp atmosphere. through April when the heavy rains come and In the late 19th century, as the rest of the con- bique, a meeting was held by villagers protest-

Quirimbas Archipelago (p288) Sublimely everything gets unpleasantly soggy. Tempera- tinent began to be torn apart in the ‘Scramble ing peacefully about taxes. Portuguese troops
beautiful islands, enchanting Ibo and tures are also higher during the rainy season – for Africa’, growing competition from the opened fire, killing a large number of demon-
some of the region’s most exclusive averaging 30°C and above in some areas. The other colonial powers forced Portugal to strators. Mozambicans had had enough, and a
getaways. hottest areas are in the north around Pemba, strengthen its claims on its territories. In resistance movement was born, with this ‘mas-

Maputo (p246) Jacaranda- and flame tree– in the dry west around Tete and along the 1891 Portugal signed a treaty with the British sacre of Mueda’ kindling the first sparks of the
lined streets, lively sidewalk cafés, good Zambezi Valley. Rainfall averages 750mm giving the country – then known as Portu- independence struggle. Resistance to colonial
museums and an excellent nightlife. annually in Maputo. guese East Africa – its present shape, and rule coalesced in 1962 with the formation of

Off the beaten track (p284) Secluded coves, The best time to visit is from May/June to formalising Portuguese control. However, Frelimo, the Mozambique Liberation Front.
crystal-clear waters, pristine wilder- November, during the cooler dry season. At the even then, the Portuguese were only able to In 1964 shots fired in the unlikely northern
ness and a wonderful ecolodge on Lake height of the rainy season between about Feb- directly administer the southern part of the village of Chai set off the struggle that finally
MOZAMBIQUE

MOZAMBIQUE
Niassa. ruary and April, many roads are impassable, vast territory. culminated in independence in 1975.
flooding is common in the south and centre
ITINERARIES of the country, and chances are high you’ll get

One Week In the south: start with a few stuck somewhere. During the Christmas–New TRAVEL TIPS
nights enjoying Maputo’s (p246) vibe before Year holidays, around Easter and again in Au-
heading further north to Inhambane (p261), gust, the southern resorts fill up with the vaca-
Allow plenty of time, and don’t try to cover too much distance. If your time is limited, stick
Tofo (p262) or one of the other beaches. tioning South African neighbours. to the coast – Mozambique’s beaches are among the best in the region – and focus on either
In the north: fly or travel overland from the south or the north of the country. To link the two, consider an internal flight.
Malawi to Nampula (p276) and on to Ilha de HISTORY
Carry a mix of finances – a Visa card for ATMs (essential!), plus some cash (US dollars and
Moçambique (p278). Finish with a few days From Bantu-speaking farmers and fishers rand) and a few travellers cheques for emergencies.
in and around Pemba (p285). to Arabic traders, Goan merchants and ad-
Learn a few words of Portuguese or greetings in local languages.

Two Weeks In the south: follow the out- venturing Europeans, Mozambique has long

Don’t insulate yourself from Mozambique or Mozambicans. Travel at least some of the time
line under the one-week itinerary. From been a crossroads of cultures. For more on the
on public transport. Try to get away from the tourist resorts and from South Africans, and
the beaches around Inhambane, head country’s early history, along with the history
learn about local life.
to Vilankulo (p265) for a dhow safari or of Southern Africa, see p37.
snorkelling around the Bazaruto Archipel-
Enjoy the prawns, crayfish and delicious coastal cuisine.
ago (p267). Fly or take the bus back to The Portuguese Arrive
Relish the country’s ‘off-beatness’, and forget about comparisons with other regional destin-
Maputo or Johannesburg. In the north: The long and often torturous era of European ations; Mozambique is in a class of its own.
proceed as under the one-week itinerary, involvement in Mozambique began over 500
 ὈὈ
240 M O Z A M B I Q U E lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com M O Z A M B I Q U E • • H i s t o r y 241

MOZAMBIQUE 0
0
200 km
120 miles
Led by the charismatic Eduardo Mondlane mitted on a massive and horrific scale. Many
(who was assassinated in 1969), and operating commentators have pointed out that the war

ὈὈὈ
Kasama
Mtwara from bases in Tanzania, Frelimo’s aim was that went on to ravage the country for the
Kilambo
Namoto
the complete liberation of Mozambique. By next 17 years was not a ‘civil’ war, but one
TANZANIA
Palma 1966 it had freed two northern provinces, between Mozambique’s Frelimo government
Moçimboa
Nangade Moçimboa
da Praia
but progress was slow and the war dragged and Renamo’s external backers.
Diaca
Mzuzu
Likoma Rovuma Rive
r do Rovuma
Mueda Quirimbas on into the 1970s. The Portuguese attempted Faced with this dire situation, Frelimo
Archipelago
Mpika
Island
(Malawi) Niassa Chai Pangane to eliminate rural support for Frelimo with opened Mozambique to the West in return for
Mecula CABO Mucojo
Cóbuè Reserve
DELGADO Macomia a scorched earth campaign and by resettling Western aid. On 16 March 1984 South Africa
(Lake
Mbueca Quirimbas

Lake Ni
Macaloge
Metangula
Salimo
Quissanga
NP
people in fenced villages. However, squab- and Mozambique signed the Nkomati Accord,
Malawi) bling within Portugal’s colonial empire and under which South Africa undertook to with-
r

r
assa
ve

Lichinga Plateau

ive
Kasungu Marrupa Metuge Pemba
Ri

increasing international criticism sapped the draw its support for Renamo and Mozam-

aR
Lichinga Montepuez
ZAMBIA

nd
Mecúfi
government’s resources. The final blow for bique agreed to expel the ANC and open the

ge
Chipata Meponda Mt Maco

Lu
Senga (1219m)
a

Portugal came in 1974 with the overthrow of country to South African investment. While
gw

LILONGWE Bay NIASSA

an

Ὀ
Mlolo
Lu

Mandimba ver the Salazar regime. On 25 June 1975 the inde- Mozambique abided by the agreement, South
Dedza Ri Fernão
io
Cassacatiza úr NAMPULA Veloso
pendent People’s Republic of Mozambique Africa exploited the situation to the full and
Ulóngwe M A L A W I Entre Cuamba L Nacala
Mutuáli
Morávia Plateau
Agónia Plateau
Lagos Ribáuè Namialo was proclaimed with wartime commander Renamo activity continued unabated.
Cahora Bassa
Mt Ulóngwe
(1416m)
Dam TETE
Mt Namúli
(2419m)
Malema
104 Nampula
Monapo Samora Machel as president. Samora Machel died in a plane crash in
Zomba See Enlargement
Zumbo Songo
Zóbuè Alto Ligonha
Gurúè
Nauela
Mogincual
1986 in questionable circumstances, and was
Lake Cahora Bassa Nametil
Luangwa Missão Blantyre
de Boroma
Limbe Namarrói
Alto Molócuè
Errego ZAMBÉZIA
Quinga Independence – the Early Years succeeded by the more moderate Joaquim

Ὀ Ὀ
Milange
Mukumbura Tete Za Nampevo
Gilé
Angoche The Portuguese pulled out almost overnight, Chissano. While the war between the Frelimo
EN103
mb
ezi
Riv Mt Chiperone Lugela Gilé
Reserve
sinking ships and pouring cement down wells government and the Renamo rebels contin-
ZIMBABWE Changara
er (2054m)
Vila Nova
Mocuba
Moma
as they went, and leaving Mozambique in a ued, by the late 1980s, political change was
Nyamapanda da Fronteira Olinga
Pebane
state of chaos, with few skilled professionals sweeping through the region. The collapse of
Guro Sena Mutarara EN1 Namacurra and virtually no infrastructure. Frelimo found the USSR altered the political balance, and the
HARARE Nicoadala
Catapu
Caia EN213 Zalala Beach
Quelimane INDIAN OCEAN itself faced with the task of running the coun- new president of South Africa, FW de Klerk,
Marondera Chupanga
Catandica
try, and threw itself headlong into a policy of made it more difficult for right-wing factions

ὈὈὈ
Inhaminga
Penha (Mozambique Channel)
Mt Gorongosa Micaúne
Longa
Gorongosa Gorongosa
Marromeu
Chinde
radical social change. Ties were established to supply Renamo.
Machipanda
Mutare
Manica NP Marromeu
Reserve with the former USSR and East Germany, By the early 1990s, Frelimo had disavowed
Chimoio EN6
Chitengo To Monapo
(26km) Matibane private land ownership was replaced with its Marxist ideology and announced that
Inchope
Gweru Mt Binga
Dondo state farms and peasant cooperatives, and multiparty elections were to be scheduled.
Chimanimani (2436m) Savane Condúcia Bay
Shurugwi
NP Búzi Rv Beira schools, banks and insurance companies were After protracted negotiations in Rome during
Chimanimani SOFALA Sofala Mossuril
Chocas nationalised. 1990, a cease-fire was arranged, followed by a

ὈὈὈ
Masvingo Mountains Sofala Bay
Espungabera
EN1 Naguema Cabaceira Grande
Cabaceira Pequena
However, Frelimo’s socialist programme formal peace agreement in October 1992 and
MANICA Lumbo
Ilha de
proved unrealistic, and by 1983 the country a successful UN-monitored disarmament and
was almost bankrupt. The crisis was com- demobilisation campaign.
MOZAMBIQUE

MOZAMBIQUE
Moçambique
To e River
Bulawayo Sav Inhassoro
Bazaruto
Mocambo Bay pounded by a disastrous three-year drought
Archipelago NP
Gonarezhou
NP
Zinave
NP Vilankulo
and by South African and Rhodesian moves to Peace at Last
Great
Limpopo Lunga
0 10km destabilise Mozambique because the African In October 1994 Frelimo won Mozambique’s

ὈὈὈ
TP
Pafuri
INHAMBANE EN1
0 5miles National Congress (ANC) and Zimbabwe Afri- first democratic elections against a surpris-
Li

can People’s Union (ZAPU) – both fighting ingly strong showing by Renamo. Results were
m
po

Banhine
po

Pomene
Louis Trichardt NP for majority rule – had bases there. similar in the 1999 elections, with Renamo
Ri
ve

Kruger Massinga Tropic of Capricorn

r

NP Limpopo Morrumbene Onto this scene emerged the Mozambique making an even stronger showing. However,
Giriyondo NP GAZA Linga Linga
Massingir
Maxixe
Inhambane
Barra
Tofo National Resistance (Renamo), which had unlike the first elections, which earned Mo-
Inharrime
Lindela been established in the mid-1970s by Rho- zambique widespread acclaim as an African
Chókwè Helene Závora desia as part of its destabilisation policy, and model of democracy and reconciliation, the
Quissico
SOUTH
Kruger
Magude Chidenguele
which was later backed by the South African
NP EN1
AFRICA Ressano Xai-Xai military and certain sectors in the West.
To Nelspruit
Garcia Zongoene
MAPUTO Bilene
HER MAJESTY’S TROPICAL GETAWAY
Pretoria
Moamba Marracuene
N4

Namaacha
MAPUTO
Inhaca Island
Ravages of War Since 1995 Mozambique has been part of
To Goba Maputo Special Reserve LEGEND
Renamo had no desire to govern – its only the Commonwealth of Nations, to which all
Johannesburg
Ermelo
MBABANE Salamanga NP National Park objective was to paralyse the country. Roads, its neighbours belong. It is the first member
Zitundo Ponta Malongane TP Transfrontier Park
Manzini
SWAZILAND
Ponta d'Ouro bridges, railways, schools and clinics were not to have been ruled by Britain at some
To Pietermaritzburg;
Kosi Bay destroyed. Villagers were rounded up, anyone point.
Durban with skills was shot, and atrocities were com-
 242 M O Z A M B I Q U E • • T h e C u l t u re lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com M O Z A M B I Q U E • • S p o r t 243

1999 balloting sparked protracted discord. completely: underlying it is a rock-hard deter- Population Dance
Renamo protested its loss, boycotted the presi- mination that has carried Mozambique from There are 16 main tribes. The Makua – who Mozambicans are superb dancers, and expe-
dential inauguration and held demonstrations complete devastation following two decades are the largest group, and who are often fur- riencing the rhythms and moves – whether in
in northern Mozambique that led to a wave of of war to near the top of the list of the conti- ther divided into various sub-groups – live a Maputo nightclub or at a traditional dance
rioting and several dozen deaths. nent’s success stories. primarily in the provinces of Cabo Delgado, performance in the provinces – is an oppor-
Niassa, Nampula and parts of Zambézia. tunity not to be missed.
Mozambique Today Daily Life Other major groups include the Makonde One of the most common traditional dance
Since then, things have settled down. In De- About 80% of Mozambicans are involved at in Cabo Delgado; the Sena in Sofala, Manica styles on Ilha de Moçambique and along the
cember 2004 prominent businessman and least part-time in subsistence agriculture, and Tete; and the Shangaan, who dominate northern coast is tufo. This is a slower-paced
long-time Frelimo insider Armando Guebuza tending small plots with cassava, maize and the southern provinces of Gaza and Maputo. dance of Arabic origin, generally performed
was elected with a solid majority to succeed other crops, and you’ll see these machambas Although Mozambique is relatively free of only by women, all usually wearing matching
Chissano, who had earlier decided to step (farm plots) wherever you travel. Along the tribal rivalries, there has long been an under- capulanas (sarongs) and scarves.
down. With a long-running banking and cor- coast, fishing is a major source of livelihood, current of north/south differences, with geo- Masked dancing is done primarily by the
ruption scandal dominating the headlines, with the small ports fascinating to watch at graphically remote northerners often feeling Makonde in northern Mozambique (see the
Frelimo is now working to polish its public dawn and in the late afternoon when the boats neglected by powerhouse Maputo. boxed text, p290) and the Chewa-Nyanja in
image, while Renamo is still striving to prove come in with their catches. About 1% of Mozambique’s population is Tete province, who are known for their Nyau
itself as a viable political party. Progress has Especially in the south and the far north, of Portuguese extraction, most of whom are masks.
been interrupted by natural calamities, in- tourism has become increasingly important, at least second generation and consider them-
cluding severe flooding in 2000 and 2001. and the economy is growing rapidly. Yet selves Mozambicans first. There are also small Literature
Yet Mozambique has a remarkable ability to daily life continues to be a struggle for many, numbers of other Europeans and of Asians, The development of Mozambican literature
rebound in the face of adversity, and most with an annual per capita income of about particularly from the Indian subcontinent. has closely paralleled the country’s struggle
observers now count the country among the US$300 (compared with about US$26,000 for independence. During the colonial era,
continent’s rising stars. in the UK). If one family member is lucky SPORT local literature focused on nationalist themes.
enough to have a good job, it is expected Football (soccer) is a national passion, and Two of the most famous poets of this period
THE CULTURE that their good fortune will filter down games always draw large and enthusiastic were Rui de Noronha and Noémia de Sousa.
The National Psyche to even distant relatives and others in the crowds. In the late 1940s José Craveirinha (1922–
You don’t need to travel long in Mozambique community. Second to football is basketball, which also 2003) began to write poetry focusing on the
before hearing the word paciência (patience). HIV/AIDS infection rates are highest in draws crowds – especially women’s basketball, social reality of the Mozambican people and
It’s the great Mozambican virtue, and most the south and centre, where they exceed 20% with the famed Clarisse Machanguana (now calling for resistance and rebellion – which
Mozambicans have it in abundance, with each in some areas, and about 20,000 children back in Mozambique after a pro-career in the eventually led to his arrest. Today, he is hon-
other and with outsiders. You’ll be expected die annually of AIDS-related causes. Public USA) leading the way. oured as Mozambique’s greatest poet, and his
to display some in return, especially in deal- discussion has opened up in recent years, The track-and-field scene is dominated by work, including Poem of the Future Citizen, is
ings with officialdom, and Western-style although it still remains muted, and deaths the internationally acclaimed 800m runner recognised worldwide.
impatience is always counterproductive. Yet are often explained away as ‘tuberculosis’ or Maria de Lurdes Mutola (the ‘Maputo Ex- As the armed struggle for independence
don’t let the languid, tropical pace sway you with silence. press’), who in 2000 became Mozambique’s gained strength, Frelimo freedom fighters
first Olympic gold medallist. began to write poems reflecting their life in
MOZAMBIQUE

MOZAMBIQUE
the forest, their marches and the ambushes.
SOCIAL ETIQUETTE RELIGION One of the finest of these guerrilla poets was
Most Mozambicans are fairly easy-going towards foreigners. However, keeping a few basics in About 35% of Mozambicans are Christians, Marcelino dos Santos.
mind will help to smooth your interactions. about 25% to 30% are Muslims, and the re- Post-independence freedom was soon shat-

Always greet others and inquire about their well-being prior to launching into questions or mainder are adherents of traditional religions tered by Frelimo’s war against the Renamo
conversation. based on animist beliefs. Among Christians, rebels, but new writers emerged. They in-
the major denomination is Roman Catholi- cluded the prolific Mia Couto, whose works

When shaking someone’s hand, the custom in many areas is to touch your left hand to your
cism. However, membership of evangelical include Voices Made Night and Every Man is
right elbow.
Protestant churches is growing rapidly, par- a Race, and who continues to dominate Mo-

When receiving a gift, it’s polite to accept it with both hands, sometimes with a slight bow or, ticularly in the south. Muslims are found pri- zambican literary circles. Other writers from
alternatively, with the right hand while touching the left hand to the right elbow. marily in the northern provinces of Nampula, this period include Ungulani Ba Ka Khossa,

Elders and those in positions of authority are treated with deference and respect. It smoothes Cabo Delgado and Niassa, with the highest Heliodoro Baptista and Eduardo White.
things considerably to follow suit. concentrations on the coast and along old One of the best known contemporary
trading routes. female writers is Lilia Momple, known for

In villages, ask to see the chief (régulo) to announce your presence and request permission
Neighbours – The Story of a Murder and The
before setting up camp or wandering around. You will rarely be refused.
ARTS & CRAFTS Eyes of the Green Cobra. Paulina Chiziane’s

Shorts and sleeveless tops are fine at beach resorts. Elsewhere, you’ll have an easier time if Mozambique has rich artistic traditions that Balada de Amor ao Vento (1990) was the
you wear more conservative garb. continue to thrive despite decades of colonial first novel to be published by a Mozambican
occupation and civil war. woman.
 244 M O Z A M B I Q U E • • E n v i r o n m e n t lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com M O Z A M B I Q U E • • F o o d & D r i n k 245

Music Sculpture & Painting plain that rises gradually to lush mountains National Parks
Traditional music is widely played. The Ma- Mozambique is famed for its woodcarvings, and plateaus on the borders with Zimbabwe, Mozambique has six national parks:
konde in the north are noted for their lupembe particularly for the sandalwood carvings found Zambia and Malawi. The highest peak is Mt Gorongosa, Zinave, Banhine and Limpopo
(wind instruments), made from animal horn or in the south and the ebony carvings of the Binga (2437m) in the Chimanimani Moun- National Parks in the interior; Bazaruto Na-
sometimes from wood or gourds. In the south, Makonde. The country’s most famous sculptor tains on the Zimbabwe border. tional Park offshore; and Quirimbas National
Chopi musicians play the timbila, a form of is the late Alberto Chissano, whose work re- Two of Southern Africa’s largest rivers – the Park, encompassing coastal and inland areas
marimba or xylophone, and are famed through- ceived wide international acclaim and inspired Zambezi and the Limpopo – cut through the in the north.
out the continent for their timbila orchestras. many younger artists. country on their way to the sea. Other major Bazaruto (p267) is the most accessible park
Modern music flourishes in the cities, The main centre of Makonde carving is rivers are the Savé and the Rovuma, which and the most visited, famed for its coral reefs,
and the live music scene in Maputo is excel- in Cabo Delgado province, around Mueda, forms the border with Tanzania. fish and dugong. Various islands within Quir-
lent. Marrabenta is Mozambique’s national with carving communities also around Pemba imbas (p288) can now also be easily (albeit
music, with a light, upbeat style and distinc- and in Nampula province. One of the leading Wildlife rather expensively) visited, and diving can be
tive beat inspired by the traditional rural ma- members of the new generation of Makonde ANIMALS arranged with all the island lodges both here
jika rhythms of Gaza and Maputo provinces. sculptors is Nkatunga, whose work portrays Mozambique doesn’t have the animal herds and on Bazaruto.
One of marrabenta’s best-known proponents different aspects of rural life. that you’ll see in neighbouring Tanzania, Gorongosa (p270) is easy to visit if you
was Orchestra Marrabenta, formed in the The most famous painter in the country Zambia or South Africa, and many of its large have your own vehicle, and has received a
1980s by members of another popular band, is Malangatana (see the boxed text, below), animal populations were decimated during major boost, thanks to the involvement of the
Grupo RM, together with dancers from Mo- whose art is exhibited around the world. the war. Yet there’s still plenty left, although US-based Carr Foundation.
zambique’s National Company of Song and Other internationally famous artists include challenging access, dense vegetation and skit- Limpopo (p260) is also now open to visi-
Dance. When Orchestra Marrabenta split in Bertina Lopes, whose work reflects her re- tishness on the part of the animals can make tors, and easy to enter from South Africa’s
1989, several members formed Ghorwane, search into African images, colours, designs spotting challenging. Kruger park.
who perform frequently in Maputo; check and themes, and Roberto Chichorro, known The largest wildlife concentrations are There are several wildlife reserves, although
their website www.ghorwane.com for upcom- for his paintings dealing with childhood found in the Niassa Reserve, which has vast the only ones with tourism infrastructure are
ing events. The late Fany Mpfumo was one of memories. All of these painters and sculptors herds of elephants, buffaloes and zebras. Niassa Reserve (p284) and the Maputo Special
Mozambique’s best-known marrabenta musi- have exhibits in the National Art Museum Modest populations of elephants, hippos and Reserve (p258).
cians and still features on popular cassettes. in Maputo. other large mammals also live in Gorongosa
Kapa Dêch is one of the best-known new National Park. With the recent opening of Environmental Issues
generation bands. Another is Mabulu, a band ENVIRONMENT Limpopo National Park, work is underway Some of the most exciting progress is being
that combines classic marrabenta rhythms Mozambique spreads out over about 800,000 to encourage wildlife populations in the south made in protecting Mozambique’s marine re-
and hip-hop. sq km, or more than three times the size of the to rebound. sources. Highlights here include the creation
For more information on music in South- UK, including a superb 2500km coastline. It’s Mozambican waters are full of life, includ- of Quirimbas National Park and the recent
ern Africa, see p52. bordered to the east by a wide lagoon-fringed ing dolphins, seasonal whales, five of the extension of Bazaruto National Park.
world’s seven species of sea turtles and the On the terrestrial side, as conservation
region’s largest dugong population. measures and anti-poaching efforts have
MOVERS & SHAKERS: MALANGATANA VALENTE NGWENYA If you have an adventurous bent, Mozam- begun to show success, with increasing pop-
bique is an ornithologist’s paradise, with ulations of elephants and other wildlife, the
MOZAMBIQUE

Malangatana Valente Ngwenya – universally known as ‘Malangatana’ – has almost single-handedly

MOZAMBIQUE
put Mozambique on the international artistic and cultural stage. He is considered to be one of close to 600 bird species, including several instances of human/elephant conflict are also
Mozambique’s and Africa’s greatest painters, and continues to be a major force in Mozambican near endemics, and rare or endangered spe- increasing, especially in the north. In addition
cultural and political circles. cies, such as the wattled crane and the Cape to fences, more sustainable techniques are also
Malangatana was born in Matalana village, near Marracuene, in 1936. After spending his early vulture. being introduced. These include encouraging
years as a herdboy and attending local mission schools, he began working as an empregado cultivation of Mozambique’s famous piri-piri
(house help) in colonial-era Maputo. Along the way, he began to develop his artistic talents, and PLANTS (hot peppers), which elephants don’t seem to
in 1959 displayed his first paintings. Mozambique’s abundant flora includes laven- like, and roping off crop areas with strings
Since then, he has continued painting, drawing and creating with a prodigious output, despite der jacarandas, brilliant red flamboyants and soaked in a mixture of oil and chilli peppers.
an almost two-year interlude as a colonial-era political prisoner, and later post-independence other flowering trees, plus endless stands of
political involvement. Although best known for his paintings, Malangatana has also worked in coconut palms, especially in Inhambane and FOOD & DRINK
various other media, including murals and sculptures. His work is characterised by its dramatic Zambézia provinces. Large tracts of central Mozambique has some of the best cuisine
figures and flamboyant yet restrained use of colour, and by its highly symbolic social and political and north-central Mozambique are covered in the region, blending African, Indian and
commentary on everything from colonialism and war to peacetime rebuilding to the universality by miombo or light woodland. Highly biodi- Portuguese influences, with a dash of piri-piri
of the human experience. verse areas include the Chimanimani Moun- (hot pepper sauce) to top things off. It’s espe-
In addition to his works of art, which is now displayed in galleries worldwide, Malangatana tains, with at least 45 endemic plant species, cially noted for its seafood, including excellent
has left his mark across a broad swath of Mozambican cultural life. This has included playing and the Maputaland area south of Maputo, camarões (prawns), lagosta (crayfish) and the
founding roles in the establishment of the National Art Museum (p250) and the Núcleo de Arte which is considered a site of global botanical ubiquitous and usually delicious peixe grel-
(p250) and setting up a cultural centre (currently in process) in his natal Matalana. significance. For general information on local hada – grilled catch of the day. The maize and
vegetation zones, see p64. cassava-based staples are xima and upshwa.
 246 MA P U T O • • O r i e n t a t i o n lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com MA P U T O • • I n f o r m a t i o n 247

One local speciality is matapa, cassava leaves down into the busy port and commercial area,
cooked in peanut sauce, often with prawns or baixa. MAPUTO IN….
or other additions. Caril (curry) dishes are Many businesses, the train station, banks, Two Days
also common, as are chamusas (samosas – post and telephone offices and some budget After breakfast at your hotel or a sidewalk café, head to Praça da Independência (p250) and
triangular wedges of fried pastry, filled with accommodation are in the baixa, on or near get an early start on some of the sights. Walk to the Municipal Market (p250), buying some
meat or vegetables) and other snacks. Wash Avenida 25 de Setembro, while embassies textiles at the nearby shops. Then hire a laranjinha (see the boxed text, p255) to take you on a
everything down with a cold Dois M (2M) – and most better hotels are in the city’s more ride along Avenida Marginal to Restaurante Costa do Sol (p253) for lunch.
the national lager. staid upper section, especially in and around The National Art Museum (p250) is an essential afternoon stop, before resting up for an
All larger towns have at least several res- the Sommerschield diplomatic and residen- evening at Chez Rangel (p253), or a pub- and club-hopping tour in a habana (see the boxed
taurants. In Maputo, Beira, Nampula and tial quarter. Maputo’s tallest building and text, p255).
other major centres, there are also wonderful a good landmark is the 33 Storey Building Spend day 2 visiting more museums – the Núcleo de Arte (p250) and Malangatana’s house
sidewalk cafés or pastelarias where you can (‘trinta e trés andares’), in the baixa on the and gallery (p250) are highlights – and craft shopping (p253). For dinner, enjoy the local cuisine
enjoy a light meal or snack with a cup of tea corner of Avenida 25 de Setembro and Rua and ambience at Feira Popular (p253) before heading out for another night on the town.
(chá) while watching the passing scene. And da Imprensa. At the northernmost end of the
everywhere, you’ll find small food stalls (bar- Marginal and about 7km from the centre is Four Days
racas), often along the roadside or at markets, Bairro Triunfo and the Costa do Sol area, Follow the two-day itinerary. On day 3, take the ferry to Catembe (p255) and lunch at Restau-
where you can get a plate of local food such as with a small beach and several places to stay rante Marisol (p255). On day 4 go to Inhaca Island (p255) to relax on the beach on Portuguese
xima and sauce for about US$1 or less. and eat. Island or snorkel around Cabo Santa Maria.
Self-catering is easy in Maputo, Beira, Chi-
moio, Nampula (all with branches of Shop- Maps
rite) and in other major towns, where there’s There’s a slightly dated but excellent city map Internet Access Standard Bank (Headquarters, Praça 25 de Junho)
a wide selection of produce and imported put out by Conselho Municipal and Coopér- Mundo’s Internet Café (Avenida Julius Nyerere; per hr Changes travellers cheques (minimum US$35 commission,
items. Along the coast, you can buy seafood ation Française, sometimes for sale at book- US$2; h8am-10.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-10.30pm Sun) original purchase receipt required). A branch at Hotel Polana.
at the fish markets and ask your hotel to grill stores and hotels. Next to Mundo’s restaurant.
it for you. Pizza House Internet Café (Avenida Mao Tse Tung; per Post
INFORMATION hr US$1.60; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat & Main post office (CTT; Avenida 25 de Setembro;

MAPUTO Bookshops
Publicações Europa-América Livraria (Avenida José
Sun) Upstairs at Pizza House (p252).
Teledata (Avenida 24 de Julho; per hr US$1.20;
h8am-6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noon Sun)

Telephone
Mateus) A modest selection of English-language books and h7.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat) One block west
%21 magazines. of Avenida Vladimir Lenine. Telecomunicações de Moçambique (TDM; ground
With its Mediterranean-style architecture, fl, 33 Storey Bldg, Rua da Imprensa; h8am-10pm) Inter-
wide avenues lined by jacaranda and flame Cultural Centres Medical Services national calls. There’s a branch at Pestana Rovuma hotel.
trees and waterside setting, Maputo is eas- Centro Cultural Franco-Moçambicano (%21- Clínica 222 (%82-000 2220, 21-312222, 21-313000;
ily one of Africa’s most attractive capitals. 320787; www.ccfmoz.com; Praça da Independência; cnr Avenida 24 de Julho & Rua Augusto Cardoso; h24hr) Tourist Information
In the bustling, low-lying baixa, galabiyya- h2-6pm Mon, 9am-6pm Tue-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) An Similar to Clínica de Sommerschield. Fundo Nacional de Turismo (Futur; www.futur.org.mz;
garbed men gather in doorways for a chat, Clínica de Sommerschield (%82-305 6240, 21-
MOZAMBIQUE

excellent place, with art exhibitions, music and dance 1203 Avenida 25 de Setembro) Various brochures covering

MOZAMBIQUE
and women wrapped in colourful capulanas performances, films, theatre and more. 493924/6; 52 Rua Pereira do Lago; h24hr) Just off Aven- Maputo and all of Mozambique’s provinces.
sell everything from seafood to spices at the Centro Cultural Português (Instituto Camões; ida Kim Il Sung, with a lab and a doctor on call. Advance
massive Municipal Market. Along the seaside %21-493892; www.instituto-camoes.pt/ccp/ccp payment required (meticais, rand, dollars or Visa card). Travel Agencies
Avenida Marginal, fishermen hawk the day’s maputo.htm; 720 Avenida Julius Nyerere) Art and Farmácia Capital Franca Centro Comercial (%82-301 Dana Agency (%21-484300; travel@dana.co.mz; 729
catch while banana vendors loll on their carts photography exhibits; opposite the South African high 4055; ground fl, Franca Centro Comercial, cnr Avenidas 24 Avenida Mao Tse Tung) Sister agency to Dana Tours, and
in the shade. commission. de Julho & Amilcar Cabral; h24hr); Avenida Mao Tse Tung in the same compound; does domestic and international
For decades, Maputo’s charms and its eco- Centro de Estudos Brasileiros (%21-306840, (%82-301 4056; Avenida Mao Tse Tung; h7.30am- flight bookings.
nomic potential were overshadowed, first by 21-306774; ceb.eventos@tvcabo.co.mz; cnr Avenida Karl 8pm Mon-Sat) The Mao Tse Tung branch is just up from Dana Tours (%21-497483, 21-495514; info@danatours
colonialism, then by war, and it’s only recently Marx & Avenida 25 de Setembro) Exhibitions by artists and Pizza House. .net; 729 Avenida Mao Tse Tung) A top-notch agency spe-
that the city has come into its own. Today it’s Portuguese language courses. cialising in the coast. Can also sort you out for destinations
a lively, bustling place with an abundance of Money throughout Mozambique (plus a few in Swaziland and South
sidewalk cafés and cultural offerings, and Emergency There are 24-hour ATMs all over town. Africa). Midrange and up, with occasional budget offerings.
great nightlife. Don’t miss spending time here For emergency medical treatment, see Medi- BIM Expresso (cnr Avenidas Mao Tse Tung & Tomás Mozambique Adviser (%21-309477; www.adviser
before heading north. cal Services, opposite. Official emergency Nduda) ATM. .co.mz) Bookings desk in the lobby of Hotel Polana;
numbers are listed, but it’s better to seek help Cotacambios airport (h6am-9.30pm Mon-Thu, 6am- southern Mozambique travel arrangements, car rentals and
ORIENTATION from your hotel or embassy. 10pm Fri, 7am-10pm Sat, 11.30am-10.30pm Sun); city boats to Inhaca.
Maputo sits on a low escarpment overlook- Central Hospital (%21-325000/9) centre (ground fl, Polana Shopping Centre, cnr Avenidas 24 Nau Tours (%21-380034; www.nautours.co.mz)
ing Maputo Bay, with the long avenues of Fire (%197, 198) de Julho & Julius Nyerere; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am- Budget trips to Catembe, Maputo Special Reserve and
its upper-lying residential sections spilling Police Station (%21-325031, 119) 10pm Sun) For changing cash out of hours. Ponta d’Ouro, plus boats to Inhaca and Cabo Santa Maria.
 Ὀ ὈὈ
248 MA P U T O • • C e n t r a l M a p u t o lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com MA P U T O • • C e n t r a l M a p u t o 249

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MOZAMBIQUE

MOZAMBIQUE
teus 74
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Telecomunicações de Moçambique ete 47 ba
mb
Branch...................................(see 76) ro Rua d 34
Telecomunicações de SLEEPING e Nach
Praça Robert ingwe
Moçambique..........................(see 54) Base Backpackers....................42 E4 Mugabe a
Teledata.......................................25 E3 Fatima's Backpackers..............43 F2 Port 81
Ave Ave M
10 d ártire
US Embassy.................................26 H2 Holiday Inn ...........................44 H2 e No
vemb s de M
5 ro ued a 5
Zambian High Commission...........27 G1 Hotel Africa II........................ 45 G4 78
Zimbabwean High Commission....28 G3 Hotel Avenida........................46 G4
Hotel Cardoso........................47 F5
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Hotel Polana..........................48 H3
Cathedral of Nossa Senhora da Hotel Santa Cruz....................49 E3
Conceição................................29 D3 Hotel Terminus......................50 G4 TRANSPORT LAM....................................(see 52)
City Hall.......................................30 D3 Hoyo-Hoyo Residencial......... 51 G4 Feira Popular................................61 D4 ENTERTAINMENT Air Corridor........................... 76 D4 Laranjinha Stand..................(see 48)
Clube Naval................................. 31 G4 Ibis.........................................52 D1 Hotel Polana Tea Room.............(see 48) Companhia Nacional de Canto e Avis....................................... 77 G3 Nyaleti Ferry to Inhaca.........(see 78)
Fort..............................................32 D2 Mozaika.................................53 F3 Mahomed & Co Supermercado..(see 74) Dança................................69 C3 Catembe Ferry Pier................ 78 D5 Panthera Azul........................87 D1
Iron House...................................33 D4 Pestana Rovuma....................54 D3 Mundo's...................................... 62 G4 Chapas to Costa do Sol.......... 79 G3 Ponto Final............................ 88 D2
Jardim dos Mariscos (Jardim dos Residencial Augustijn ............55 G1 Náutilus Pastelaria........................63 G4 SHOPPING Chapas to Costa do Sol.......... 80 C4 Porto da Pesca....................... 89 D2
Namorados).............................34 G5 Residencial Palmeiras..............56 E4 Piri-Piri Chicken........................... 64 G4 Artedif................................... 70 H2 Chapas to Junta...................(see 40) Ronil...................................... 90 D2
Jardim Tunduru (Botanical Residencial Sundown.............57 G2 Pizza House.................................65 G3 Casa Elefante.........................71 C1 Chapas to Ponta d'Ouro........81 E5 South African
Gardens).................................. 35 D4 Residencial Villa Itália.............58 G4 Villa Itália...................................(see 58) Craft Vendors......................(see 48) Europcar................................ 82 H3 Airways...............................91 G1
6 Jumma Masjid..............................36 C1 Villa das Mangas....................59 F4 Franca Centro Fábrica de Cerveja Laurentina..83 C3 TAP Air Portugal..................(see 54) 6
Money Museum...........................37 D1 DRINKING Comercial.......................... 72 E3 Greyhound............................ 84 D3 Taxi Rank...............................92 C1
Municipal Market........................38 C4 EATING África Bar..................................... 66 D3 MozArte................................ 73 D3 Hertz...................................(see 48) Taxi Rank............................(see 48)
National Art Museum...................39 D3 Café Continental....................60 D1 Chez Rangel................................67 C4 Polana Shopping Centre........ 74 G4 InterCape Mainliner................85 F4 Translux.................................93 E4
Natural History Museum...............40 F5 Deli-cious Deli......................(see 74) Hotel Terminus Pool Bar.............(see 50) Saturday Morning Craft Kenya Airways.......................86 C1 Transportes Oliveiras..............94 A1
Núcleo de Arte.............................41 G4 Estoril.....................................(see 1) Sinatra's.......................................68 C2 Market.............................. 75 D2 LAM sales office..................(see 77) Xipamanine Market................95 B1
 250 MA P U T O • • D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s lonelyplanet.com Book
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DANGERS & ANNOYANCES Bairro do Aeroporto; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat), MAPUTO FOR CHILDREN Maputo Backpackers (%21-451213; Quarta Avenida,
While Maputo is considerably safer than Mozambique’s most renowned painter. It’s There’s a large lawn, a playground and several Bairro Triunfo; dm US$8-10, d/tw US$32/35, tr with shared/
nearby Johannesburg, crime does occur, and filled with dozens of his own paintings as eateries at Jardim dos Mariscos (Jardim dos Namorados; private bathroom US$49/55) This cosy place near Costa
it can be violent. Although most tourists visit well as sculptures of Alberto Chissano. Call Avenida Friedrich Engels), and a small playground at- do Sol has spotless rooms with fans, and cook-
the city without mishap, be vigilant when ahead to arrange an appointment. The house tached to Mundo’s restaurant (p253). Another ing is permitted if the house isn’t too crowded.
out and about both during the day and at is located several kilometres outside the city good bet is the pool at Clube Naval (%21-492690, Chapas to/from town stop nearby.
night, and take the precautions discussed on centre; ask directions when arranging the 21-494881; www.clubenaval.com; admission US$4; hfrom Other than the backpackers, good, safe shoe-
p293. In particular, try not to carry a bag, visit. 7am Mon-Fri). string accommodation in Maputo is scarce, and
wear expensive jewellery or otherwise give a most people opt to pay a bit more for one of the
potential thief reason to think that you might Natural History Museum TOURS places hovering between budget and midrange.
have something of value. At night, always take The recently renovated Natural History Museum The best way to see the sights is to charter Some recommendations:
a taxi and, day or night, don’t put yourself in (Museu da História Natural; %21-490879; www.museu a laranjinha or habana (see the boxed text, Hotel Santa Cruz (%21-303004; www.teledata.mz
isolating situations. Areas to avoid during .org.mz; Praça Travessa de Zambezi; admission US$2; p255). /hotelsantacruz; 1417 Avenida 24 de Julho; s/d with shared
the day include the isolated stretches of the h9-11.30am & 2-4pm Tue-Sun), opposite the Hotel The Mozambique Adviser desk at Hotel bathroom US$28/32, s/d US$32/38) The most basic of the
Marginal between Praça Robert Mugabe and Cardoso, is worth a stop to see its Manueline Polana also arranges reasonably priced half- bunch, with reasonable rooms in a nondescript high-rise
the Holiday Inn, and the two access roads architecture and its garden with a mural by and full-day city tours, pub crawls (‘Maputo near the corner of Avenida Amilcar Cabral. Not optimal for
leading down to the Marginal from Avenida Malangatana. Inside are some moderately by Night’) and other excursions. solo women travellers.
Friedrich Engels. Also avoid the area below interesting taxidermy specimens and what Hotel Costa do Sol (%21-450115; rcs@teledata.mz;
the escarpment just south of Avenida Patrice is probably the region’s only collection of FESTIVALS & EVENTS Avenida Marginal; s/d US$31/47; p) Above Restaurante
Lumumba. elephant foetuses. Avante Mozambique! (avantemozambique@yahoo.com) Costa do Sol (p253), with straightforward rooms with
Carry a notarised copy of your passport is a celebration of Mozambique’s art and cul- fan, and the beach across the road. Continental breakfast
when out and about (see the boxed text, p294). Other Sights tures, including song, music and dance. It’s included.
It’s rarely checked, but when it is, it’s usually Maputo’s fort (Praça 25 de Junho; admission free; just getting started, but is planned to be an Hotel África II (%21-488729; hotel.africa@tvcabo.co
by underpaid policemen looking to top up h8am-5pm) was built by the Portuguese in annual event, held in Maputo over two weeks .mz; 322 Avenida Julius Nyerere; s/d with shared bathroom
their meagre salaries with bribes. If you do get the mid-19th century near the site of an earlier in late August to early September. US$40/50, US$50/65; ai) Pleasant, straightforward
stopped, always insist on going to the nearest fort. Inside are a garden and a small museum rooms in a convenient central location. Prices include
police station (esquadrão). with remnants from the era of early Portu- SLEEPING continental breakfast.
There are several restricted areas that are guese forays to the area. If you want to be in the thick of things,
off-limits to pedestrians (no photos). These Several blocks west is the landmark pale- choose somewhere in or near the baixa. For Midrange
include the eastern footpath on Avenida Julius green train station dating from 1910, with a sea breezes and more tranquillity, head to Residencial Palmeiras (%21-300199; carlos.pereira@
Nyerere in front of the president’s residence dome designed by an associate of Alexandre the upper part of town in and around Som- tvcabo.co.mz; 948 Avenida Patrice Lumumba; s with shared
and the Ponta Vermelha zone in the city’s Gustav Eiffel (of Eiffel Tower fame). merschield, or to Avenida Marginal and Costa bathroom US$35, s/d US$40/55; pa) A converted
southeastern corner. Between the fort and the station is the do Sol. residence with comfortable, good-value
oldest part of town, centred around Rua de rooms – all but one with private bathroom,
SIGHTS Bagamoyo, with the new Jumma Masjid on the Budget and all with TV – near the British high com-
National Art Museum site of what was once Maputo’s oldest mosque, The closest camping grounds are about 35km mission. Continental breakfast included.
MOZAMBIQUE

MOZAMBIQUE
The art museum (Museu Nacional de Arte; http://musart and the Money Museum (Praça 25 de Junho; admission north of Maputo at Marracuene and Maca- Hoyo-Hoyo Residencial (%21-490701; promotour@
.tvcabo.co.mz; 1233 Avenida Ho Chi Min; admission free; h2- US$0.20; h9am-noon & 2-4.30pm Tue-Sat, 2-5pm Sun), neta. Maputo has three good backpackers, tvcabo.co.mz; 837 Avenida Francisco Magumbwe; s/d US$38/45;
6pm Tue-Sun), half a block west of Avenida Karl in a colonial-era house, with exhibits of local all with English-speaking staff and heaps of pa) This solid, no-frills hotel rather lacks
Marx, has a wonderful collection of paintings currency ranging from early barter tokens to city info. All can also help with airport pick- in pizzazz, but rooms are quite decent and
and sculptures by Mozambique’s finest con- modern-day bills. The museum was tempor- ups and transfers to the bus depots for early fairly priced, with TV and breakfast included.
temporary artists. arily closed at the time of writing. morning buses north. The in-house restaurant, Petiscos, is known
Near the train station is the lively Municipal Fatima’s Backpackers (%21-302994, 82-414 5730; for its delicious Goan cuisine (meals from
Núcleo de Arte Market (Mercado Municipal; Avenida 25 de Setembro) with www.mozambiquebackpackers.com; 1317 Avenida Mao Tse US$5).
At this long-standing artists’ cooperative colourful stalls overflowing with fruit, vege- Tung; camping per person US$5, dm US$6-12, d with shared/ Ibis (%21-352200; www.accorhotels.com; 1743 Avenida
(%21-492523; www.africaserver.nl/nucleo; 194 Rua da tables and spices. private bathroom US$24/32) In the upper part of town 25 de Setembro; r US$49; pai) Ibis is centrally
Argélia; hclosed Sun), housed in a dilapidated Northeast of the market is Praça da Independ- and Maputo’s longest-running backpackers, located in the baixa, with small, spiffy rooms
colonial-era mansion, you can see guns ência, fringed by the white, spired cathedral, with an outdoor kitchen-bar area, and rooms, at very reasonable prices, plus a restaurant,
transformed into moving sculptures, and the hulking, neo-classical City Hall building, plus dorm beds, in a house next door. business facilities and disabled access. If
chat with the artists and purchase some of the overgrown Botanical Gardens (Jardim Tun- Base Backpackers (%21-302723; thebasebp@tvcabo you’re on a tight budget but looking for some
their work. duru), and the Iron House (Casa de Ferro). This .co.mz; 545 Avenida Patrice Lumumba; dm US$8, d US$20) comforts, it’s a good deal.
house was designed (also by Eiffel or an asso- Popular and often full, with a convenient loca- Residencial Villa Itália (%21-497298; vitalia@virconn
House & Studio of Malangatana ciate) in the late 19th century as the governor’s tion on the edge of the baixa, a kitchen, and .com; 635 Avenida Friedrich Engels; s/d/ste US$55/65/75) This
It is possible to visit the house and studio of residence, but its metal-plated exterior proved a backyard bar, terrace and braai (barbecue) large colonial-era house has a popular restau-
Malangatana (%21-465286, 21-465681; Rua de Camões, unsuitable for tropical conditions. area with views to the port in the distance. rant downstairs, a homey ambience and a few
 252 MA P U T O • • E a t i n g Book accommodation online
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spacious, spotless rooms on the upper level. the four-star Rovuma is another venerable Restaurants of a large collection of old jazz gramophone
Breakfast included. Maputo establishment, with a business centre Maputo has dozens of good restaurants, records. An ideal spot to sip a caipirinha while
Mozaika (%21-303939, 21-303965; www.mozaika and package excursions from Johannesburg enough to keep you busy sampling new places taking in Afro-jazz beats.
.co.mz; 769 Avenida Agostinho Neto; s/d from US$60/70; that include sister hotels on Inhaca and the for weeks. Main dishes at most range from África Bar (%21-314821; 2182 Avenida 24 de Julho;
pas) In a convenient, central location, Bazaruto Archipelago. US$5 to US$12. admission US$2; hfrom 5pm Wed-Sun) This sleek spot
Mozaika has small but well-equipped rooms – Hotel Polana (%21-491001; www.polana-hotel.com; Restaurante Costa do Sol (%21-450038; Avenida draws the crowds on Thursday (jazz night,
each decorated with its own theme – set 1380 Avenida Julius Nyerere; s/d from US$150/168, ste from Marginal; meals from US$5; h11am-10.30pm Sun-Thu, admission free).
around a garden courtyard. There’s a bar, US$450; pais) In a prime location on 11am-midnight Fri & Sat) A Maputo classic, this Coconuts Live (%21-322217; Complexo Mini-Golfe,
though no restaurant. Breakfast included. the clifftop with uninterrupted views over beachside place draws the crowds on week- Avenida Marginal; admission disco US$8, lounge free; hdisco
Villa das Mangas (%21-497507; villadasmangas@ the sea, the Polana is Maputo’s classiest hotel end afternoons. There’s seating on the large Fri & Sat, lounge Wed-Sun) A weekend disco, plus a
tvcabo.co.mz; 401 Avenida 24 de Julho; s/d from US$60/75; and one of the best hotels in the region. It sea-facing porch or indoors, and an array of popular chill-out lounge.
as) Villa das Mangas offers tiny, bright has rooms in the elegant main building or in seafood dishes and grills. It’s about 5km from Also recommended:
rooms with TV around a little garden, and a the newer ‘Polana Mar’ section closer to the the centre at the northern end of Avenida Sinatra’s (cnr Avenida Mártires de Inhaminga & Travessa
sleek restaurant (meals from US$9) and bar. water. There’s a beautiful pool, a business Marginal. do Varieta; hfrom 9pm Mon-Sat) Live Brazilian-
Hotel Terminus (%21-491333; www.terminus.co.mz; centre, and a restaurant with daily breakfast Mundo’s (%21-494080; cnr Avenidas Julius Nyerere & Mozambican fusion music and cuisine to match.
cnr Avenidas Francisco Magumbwe & Ahmed Sekou Touré; and weekend dinner buffets. If you’re thinking Eduardo Mondlane; meals US$5-9; h7am-1am) Burritos, Hotel Terminus Pool Bar (%21-491333; cnr Avenidas
s/d from US$60/100; pais) This three-star of splurging in Maputo, this is one of the best burgers, pizzas, all-day breakfasts and other Francisco Magumbwe & Ahmed Sekou Touré) Good for a
establishment in the upper part of town has places to do it. hearty fare – all served up in large portions quiet drink, or if you want to stick close to your hotel.
small but spotless and well-appointed rooms Other recommendations: on wooden tables set around a street-side
with TV, plus good service and facilities, a Hotel Avenida (%21-492000; www.hotelavenida.co veranda. Traditional Music & Dance
business centre, a garden and a restaurant. .mz; 627 Avenida Julius Nyerere; s/d from US$160/175; Villa Itália (%21-497298; 635 Avenida Friedrich Engels; Check with the Centro Cultural Franco-
It’s popular with business travellers and often pais) A five-star high-rise in the upper part meals from US$6; hTue-Sun) This popular restaurant Moçambicano (p246) for upcoming music
fully booked. Breakfast is included. of town with a business centre and sleek rooms with all is an amenable spot for a quiet evening, with and dance performances.
Kurhula Parque Self-Catering Chalets (%21- the amenities. outdoor garden seating and well-prepared Companhia Nacional de Canto e Dança (National
450115; rcs@teledata.mz; Avenida Marginal; 4-person chalets Holiday Inn (%21-495050; www.ichotelsgroup pasta dishes, pizzas, salads and seafood. Company of Song & Dance; %21-400913; www.cncd.org
US$90; p) Under the same management as .com/h/d/hi/1/en/hd/mpmto; Avenida Marginal; s/d from Feira Popular (Avenida 25 de Setembro; admission .mz; Casa de Cultura, 1719 Avenida Albert Luthuli) Mozam-
Hotel Costa do Sol (p251), and just next door, US$150/165; pais) Directly on the water US$0.60; hlunch & dinner) Another Maputo insti- bique’s renowned national dance company is
with serviced self-catering chalets – each with (though there’s no beach or swimming), with rooms and tution, with dozens of small bars and restau- based at the Casa de Cultura, near the inter-
a double bed and a loft with two twin beds – services on a par with those of all Holiday Inns in the region. rants set inside a large, walled compound, section with Avenida Ho Chi Min. Rehearsals
set behind a fence on the inland side of the including O Escorpião with hearty Portuguese are often open to the public.
beach road. EATING dishes for US$6, and Coqueiro with Zam-
There are several private houses in Som- Cafés & Quick Eats bézian cuisine. SHOPPING
merschield offering B&B-style accommoda- Pizza House (%21-485257; 601/607 Avenida Mao Tse In addition to the Saturday morning craft market
tion, with nicely furnished rooms, most with Tung; pizzas & light meals US$2-5; h6.30am-10.30pm) Self-Catering (Praça 25 de Junho; habout 8am-1pm Sat) and the craft
bathroom. They include Residencial Augustijn Indoor and outdoor seating, plus pastries, Excellent tropical fruits and vegetables are vendors in front of Hotel Polana, craft shops
(%21-493693; t.theunissen@tvcabo.co.mz; 204 Rua Pereira sandwiches, burgers, grilled chicken and other available at Maputo’s markets and from street- include the following:
MOZAMBIQUE

MOZAMBIQUE
Marinho; s/d US$50/55) and the larger Residencial light meals, and a small convenience store. side vendors. Artedif (Avenida Marginal; h9am-2.30pm Tue, 9am-
Sundown (%21-497543; www.hotelmaputo.com; 107 Rua Upstairs is an internet café (p247). Deli-cious Deli (Polana Shopping Centre, cnr Avenidas 3.30pm Wed-Mon) A cooperative for disabled people,
1301; s/d with full breakfast from US$55/65; ai), which Hotel Polana Tea Room (%21-491001; Hotel Polana, Julius Nyerere & 24 de Julho) Deli meats and cheeses, selling carvings and basketry.
also has wireless internet access. Avenida Julius Nyerere; light meals US$2-15; h8am-10pm) sandwiches, wine and other imported items. Casa Elefante (Ave 25 de Setembro; hclosed Sun)
This genteel place has plush chairs, wonder- Mahomed & Co Supermercado (Polana Shopping The best place to buy capulanas (sarongs); opposite the
Top End ful homemade ice cream and a lunchtime Centre, cnr Avenidas Julius Nyerere & 24 de Julho; h10am- Municipal Market.
Except as noted, rates at these places include salad buffet. 8pm) Small, but conveniently located. MozArte (Avenida Filipe Samuel Magaia; h8am-noon
a buffet breakfast. Piri-Piri Chicken (Avenida 24 de Julho; takeaway/ Shoprite (Avenida Acordos de Lusaka; h9am-8pm Mon- & 2.30-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) Around the corner
Hotel Cardoso (%21-491071; www.hotelcardoso eat-in chicken to US$6.50/8) A long-term place with Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) There’s also a Shoprite super- from the National Art Museum, with artists’ workshops
.co.mz; 707 Avenida Mártires de Mueda; s/d US$135/150, grilled chicken (with or without piri-piri). market just out of the city centre. and crafts for sale.
with sea view from US$160/175; s) Opposite the There are dozens of sidewalk cafés (all open Shanty Craft (%21-450305; Segunda Avenida, Bairro
Natural History Museum, and on the clifftop from about 8am to 9pm daily) where you can DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT Triunfo; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) An excellent selection of
overlooking the bay, this 130-room hotel is get pastries and light meals, and watch the Bars & Nightclubs high-quality crafts from around the country.
a Maputo classic, with good service, a busi- passing scene, including Café Continental (%21- Thursday to Saturday are the main nights, with
ness centre and a bar with sunset views over 302005; cnr Avenidas 25 de Setembro & Avenida Samora Machel; things getting going only after 11pm. GETTING THERE & AWAY
the water. light meals from US$1.50), which has been around Chez Rangel (%82-311 6670; hWed-Sat) This Air
Pestana Rovuma (%21-305000; www.pestana.com; since colonial days; Estoril (Avenida Mao Tse Tung); jazz café at the train station is one of Maputo’s For domestic and international flights to/from
114 Rua da Sé; s/d from US$115/150; ais) Cen- and Náutilus Pastelaria (cnr Avenidas Julius Nyerere & 24 best night spots, with live music on Saturdays Maputo, see p297. Airline offices include the
trally located just off Praça da Independência, de Julho; light meals US$2-5; h6am-9pm). (admission US$12), and otherwise your choice following:
 254 MA P U T O • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d lonelyplanet.com Book
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Air Corridor (%21-311582, 21-311585; 33 Storey Bldg, Train

cnr Avenida 25 de Setembro & Rua da Imprensa) Slow trains connect Maputo with Ressano Gar- TREAT YOURSELF
Kenya Airways (%21-320337/8; aquarium@tvcabo cia, departing Maputo at 7.45am daily, and In keeping with its Afro-Latino rhythms, Maputo now boasts its own fleet of habanas – sleek
.co.mz; 171 Avenida Karl Marx) At Aquarium Travel. Ressano Garcia at 12.10pm (US$0.60, four to 1950s-vintage cars imported from Cuba, with huge, comfortable seats and period tunes on the
LAM central reservations (%21-4680000, 21-326001, 21- five hours). For onward connections to Johan- sound system. They can be chartered for sightseeing tours, airport pick-ups or evenings on the
465801; www.lam.co.mz; cnr Avenidas 25 de Setembro & nesburg, see p299. town pub- and club-hopping.
Karl Marx); sales office (%21-490590; cnr Avenidas Julius The same company also has a fleet of brightly coloured laranjinhas – Maputo’s version of
Nyerere & Mao Tse Tung) GETTING AROUND Cuba’s cocos taxis – that can be chartered for daytime sightseeing or rides along Avenida Marginal.
South African Airways (%21-495483, 21-495484, To/From the Airport The laranjinhas have meters, with prices roughly equivalent to city taxi prices, or about US$30
21-498097; www.flysaa.com; Avenida Fernão Melo e Maputo’s Mavalane International Airport is per hour; habana charters are about US$45 per hour. Contact Laranjinhas Turismo e Taxis Lda
Castro, Sommerschield) 6km northwest of the city centre (US$8 to (%21-491071/5, ext 2618, 82-410 0001; egrafica@virconn.com) at Hotel Cardoso for bookings of both.
Swazi Express (%in South Africa 031-408 1115; www US$10 in a taxi). You can also catch laranjinhas at stands in front of Hotel Polana or Holiday Inn.
.swaziexpress.com; Maputo airport)
TAP Air Portugal (%21-303927/8, 431006/7; www Bus & Chapa
.tap-airportugal.pt; Hotel Pestana Rovuma) Buses are numbered, and have name boards hotels and at the Municipal Market. Town Inhaca Island
TransAirways (%21-465108; fax 21-465011; with their destination. City rides cost trips start at US$2. From Costa do Sol to Junta %21
transairways@virconn.com; Maputo airport) US$0.15. costs about US$12. Inhaca, about 40km east of Maputo, is an im-
Chapas go everywhere (US$0.20). Some portant marine research centre and a popular
Bus have name boards; otherwise listen to the AROUND MAPUTO weekend getaway. Its offshore coral reefs are
Most long-distance depots are well outside the destination called out by the conductor. To Catembe among the most southerly in the world, and
city centre. For upcountry fares and journey get to Junta, look for a chapa going to ‘Jardim’; %21 parts of the island and surrounding waters
times, see the town headings. coming from Junta into town, look for a chapa Across the bay from Maputo is the quiet town have been designated a protected reserve. On
Benfica (Avenida de Moçambique) Chapas to Marracuene. heading to ‘Museu’. of Catembe, with views of Maputo’s skyline Inhaca’s southwestern edge at the research
Fábrica de Cerveja Laurentina (cnr Avenidas 25 de Useful transport stands: and a taste of upcountry life for those who station is a small museum (admission US$3; h8.30-
Setembro & Albert Luthuli) Chapas to Swaziland, South Museu (Natural History Museum) Chapas to the won’t have a chance to leave the capital. 11.30am & 2-3.30pm Mon-Fri, from 9.30am Sat, Sun & holidays)
Africa, Namaacha, Boane and Goba depart from behind the airport and ‘Junta’. Catembe Gallery Hotel (% 21-380050; www with specimens of local fauna.
beer factory. Ponto Final (cnr Avenidas Eduardo Mondlane & Guerra .catembe.net; ste from US$95, tr US$95; s) enjoys a About 3km northwest of Inhaca is tiny
‘Junta’ (Avenida de Moçambique) Maputo’s chaotic Popular) Terminus for some upcountry buses, and for waterside setting, pleasant, breezy rooms Portuguese Island, a patch of white sand sur-
long-distance bus depot about 7km from the centre; most chapas running along Avenida Eduardo Mondlane. with small balconies overlooking the bay, rounded by crystal-clear waters, and just
departures are about 5am. Coming into Maputo, some Praça dos Trabalhadores Chapas to Costa do Sol; these and a handful of suites boasting Jacuzzis and south of Inhaca is Cabo Santa Maria, with quiet
buses continue into the city to Ponto Final (cnr Avenidas also depart from the corner of Avenidas Mao Tse Tung and original paintings by local artists. This all beaches and good snorkelling. Cabo Santa
Eduardo Mondlane & Guerra Popular), from where it’s Julius Nyerere. combines to make this a great city getaway. Maria is usually visited by boat from Inhaca
about US$2 in a taxi to the central area. Ronil (cnr Avenidas Eduardo Mondlane & Karl Marx) There’s also a small beach and the good Res- or direct from Maputo, although there’s also
Panthera Azul (%21-302077/83; www.pantherazul Chapas to ‘Junta’, Benfica and Matola. taurante Marisol (meals from US$5), with Mozam- an overland route through the Maputo Spe-
.com; 273 Avenida Zedequias Manganhela) Weekly bus to bican cuisine, homemade pasta and cheeses, cial Reserve and a self-catering camp; for
Car make-your-own-pizzas and live music on more information see p258.
MOZAMBIQUE

Beira (US$44, 18 hours), departing at 5am Tuesday from

MOZAMBIQUE
its office. Car crime is rife in Maputo – park in guarded Sundays. Next door and under the same man-
Transportes Oliveiras (%21-405108, 21-400475; lots when possible, or tip the young boys on agement is Pensão Catembe (dm US$15, r US$50), SLEEPING & EATING
Avenida 24 de Julho) The place to go to catch the ailing the street to watch your vehicle. Rental agen- with dorm beds and doubles sharing facilities. Marine Biology Research Station (%21-760009, 21-
Oliveiras buses to Inhambane (departing at 6am and cies include the following: It’s 4km north of the ferry dock; call first, and 760013; fax 21-492176; r per person US$15) Just in from
11am). It’s about 4km from the centre, just beyond Praça Avis (%21-465497/8, 21-494473; www.avis.co.za; inter- staff will come and collect you. the water on the island’s southwestern edge,
16 de Junho (US$6 in a taxi). section Avenidas Julius Nyerere & Mao Tse Tung) Diagonally with no-frills rooms that share facilities, and
opposite Hotel Polana, and at the airport. GETTING THERE & AWAY are open to the public on a space-available
Departure and ticketing points for express Europcar (%21-497338, 21-466172; europcar@virconn A ferry runs daily from the dock near the basis. Bring your own food, and book rooms
buses to Johannesburg include the following .com; 1418 Avenida Julius Nyerere) Next to Hotel Polana Ministry of Finances (per person day/evening well in advance.
(see p299 for times and prices). and at the airport. US$0.15/0.20, per vehicle US$6, 20 minutes). Pestana Inhaca Lodge (%21-305000; www.pes
Greyhound (%21-355700; www.greyhound.co.za; Hertz (%21-494982, 21-303171/3; hertz.reserva The first boat from Maputo departs at 5am, tana.com; s/d/family room with half board US$125/218/250;
1242 Avenida Karl Marx) At Cotur Travel & Tours. tions@tropical.co.mz) At Hotel Polana, and at the then 6am, 7am, 8.30am and thereafter every as) This four-star place is set in expan-
InterCape Mainliner (%21-431006; www.intercape airport. few hours or so until 10pm. From Catembe, sive gardens just north of the ferry pier. The
.co.za; 899 Avenida 24 de Julho) At Tropical Air Travel. Imperial (%82-300 5180, 21-494459, 21-315345; the first departure is at 5.30am; evening de- pleasant rooms have mosquito nets, fan and
Panthera Azul (%21-302077/83; www.pantherazul www.imperialcarrental.co.za) At the airport. partures are at 5pm, 6pm, 7.30pm, 9.30pm, air-con, and there are larger family rooms,
.com; 273 Avenida Zedequias Manganhela) Behind the 10.45pm and 11.30pm (final boat sometimes most of which are wheelchair-friendly.
main post office. Taxi leaves early). Smaller, passenger-only boats Restaurante Lucas (%21-760007; meals US$5-8,
Translux (%21-303825, 21-303829; www.translux There are taxi ranks at Hotel Polana (call (US$0.20) also run throughout the day be- 1-/2-person seafood platter US$18/26, lobster or prawns about
.co.za; 1249 Avenida 24 de Julho) At Simara Travel & Tours. %21-493255 for a cab), at most other top-end tween about 7am and 7pm. US$17; hfrom 7am) The main place to eat, with
 256 S O U T H E R N M O Z A M B I Q U E • • P o n t a d ’ O u r o & P o n t a M a l o n g a n e lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N M O Z A M B I Q U E • • P o n t a d ’ O u r o & P o n t a M a l o n g a n e 257

pricey but delicious seafood grills and slow only). Day use of the compound is US$4 per endless stretch of windswept coastline fringed Bugan Villa Sol (%82-310 4360, 84-752 0973;
service. It’s next to Pestana Inhaca Lodge. vehicle. by high, vegetated dunes. bougainvillasol@gmail.com; B&B per person from US$70; s)
Macaneta Lodge (Complexo Turístico de Macaneta; This cosy B&B-style guesthouse makes a good
GETTING THERE & AWAY %82-322 9920; macanetalodge@tdm.co.mz; 2-/4-person Activities weekend retreat, with impeccably decorated
There are daily flights to/from Maputo on bungalows US$70/140; a) Popular with day visit- DIVING rooms set around the garden, braai facilities,
TransAirways (%21-465108; transairways@virconn.com) ors, with a beachside restaurant (meals from Visibility that’s consistently better than just and the beach just a five-minute walk away.
for US$50 return. US$5), straightforward chalets and a weekend over the border, a profusion of corals, and the It’s near the police station, and signposted
For speedboat charters to Inhaca (US$35 discotheque. chance to see dolphins and sharks have made from the entrance to town.
to US$50 per person, minimum four people, Motapa Estuary Lodge (%in South Africa 015-793 Ponta d’Ouro one of Mozambique’s diving Motel do Mar (%21-650000; www.pontadoouro
about one hour) or to Cabo Santa Maria get 3816; info@transfrontiers.com; 8-person lodge with full-board/ hubs. Tandje Beach Resort is the base for a .co.za; 4-person chalets with/without sea view US$105/85)
in touch with Desemar (%82-301 8070, 82-309 7920; self-catering US$586/312; s) A lovely, tranquil place number of operators that run dive camps. In a good seaside location, this motel is a
sergio302003@yahoo.com), which can also be booked on the Nkomati River, with four double bun- Dolphin Encountours (%82-920 8952, in South throwback to colonial days, with a restaurant,
through Hotel Polana (p252) or Nau Tours galows and a restaurant-bar. Transport to the Africa 011-462 8103; www.dolphin-encountours.co.za; per and blocks of faded two-storey self-catering
(p247) in Maputo. beach can be arranged. Advance bookings are person with half-board in reed/wooden huts US$44/55) chalets, each with two twin-bedded rooms.
The slow Vodacom ferry departs from essential; overnight visitors only. Wooden huts with nets or simpler reed huts; dolphin tours. Praia de Ouro Sul (%in South Africa 082-871 2791;
Maputo’s Porto da Pesca (off Rua Marques Simply Scuba (%in South Africa 011-678 0972; www www.praiadeourosul.co.za; 4-person tents US$156, 6-person
de Pombal) at 8am on Tuesday, Thursday, GETTING THERE & AWAY .simplyscuba.co.za; per person sharing from US$22) luxury chalets US$344) Luxurious logwood chalets
Friday, Saturday and Sunday (US$16 one Take any northbound chapa from Benfica Scuba Adventures (%21-650026; www.scubatravel on a high, vegetated dune with commanding
way, 2½ to three hours). Departures from (US$1.20, one hour) to Marracuene, from .co.za; per person sharing tent/hut US$23/27) sea views and American-style kitchens, plus
Inhaca are about 3pm. The less reliable Nyaleti where it’s a 10-minute walk through town to Whaler (%in South Africa 011-213 0213; www.thewhaler safari-style tents on a forested hillside, and
departs from the Catembe ferry pier at 7am the Nkomati River ferry (round trip per vehicle .co.za; hut s/d from US$29/42) a restaurant. It’s about 5km south of Ponta
on Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday US$6.50, five minutes, runs until about 6pm). d’Ouro town, and signposted from town.
(1st/2nd class US$6/3.20 one way, two to three On the other side, follow the rutted road for In addition to the operators based at Tandje
hours), returning about 3pm the same day. about 5km to a junction of sorts, from where Beach Resort, local dive bases include Devocean PONTA MALONGANE
Charter speedboats stop at Portuguese most of the Macaneta places are about 5km Diving (www.devoceandiving.com) and Ponta Malon- Ponta Malongane (%in South Africa 013-741 1975; www
Island en route to Inhaca, or you can arrange to 8km further, and signposted. There’s no gane (right). There’s a dive equipment shop .malongane.co.za; camping per person US$13, dive camp tents
something with local fishermen on the beach public transport; hitching is slow except at under Fishmonger Barracas (p258). from US$16, rondavel/log-hut d from US$24/25) Based at
in front of Pestana Inhaca Lodge. weekends. For drivers, 4WD is essential, ex- the sprawling Parque de Malongane, with
cept for Macaneta Lodge. DOLPHIN TOURS shaded camping, two-person rondavels, small
Marracuene & Macaneta Beach Dolphins frequent the nearby waters, and twin-bedded log cabins, a restaurant and a
%21
Breezy Macaneta is the closest open-ocean SOUTHERN catching a glimpse of them can be a beau-
tiful experience. However, remember that
self-catering area.
Tartaruga Marítima Luxury Camp (%in South Africa
beach to Maputo and an easy day trip from
the capital. It’s on a narrow peninsula divided
from the mainland by the Nkomati River, and
MOZAMBIQUE they’re wild creatures, and sightings can’t be
guaranteed. The best tours are with Dolphin
Encountours (above), and are generally part
083-309 3469, www.tartaruga.co.za; s/d US$95/147; s)
About 2km further north is this lovely and
tranquil retreat, with safari-style tents tucked
reached via the colonial-era town of Marra- Excellent beaches, heaping plates of prawns, of a three-night package from Johannes- away in the coastal forest behind the dunes,
MOZAMBIQUE

MOZAMBIQUE
cuene, 35km north of Maputo along the EN1. wonderful diving and snorkelling, good tour- burg, priced from about US$422 per per- and a self-catering area.
ism infrastructure, and easy road and air access son; walk-ins are ccommodated if space is Ponta Mamoli (%in South Africa 083-444 6346; www
SLEEPING & EATING from South Africa make the southern coast available. .pontamamoli.com; chalet s/d with half-board US$176/281;
Marracuene Lodge (%21-494529; marracuene@teledata Mozambique’s most popular destination, and s) Log-cabin chalets, plus a restaurant, bar
.mz; camping per person US$8, r per person self-catering/with an easy introduction to the country. Sleeping and braai area in a beautiful setting 11km
half-board US$39/55; s) On the Nkomati River PONTA D’OURO north of Ponta Malongane. Diving, fishing
about 4km south of Marracuene off the EN1, PONTA D’OURO & PONTA Tandje Beach Resort (% in South Africa 011-678 and horseback riding can be arranged.
with good camping and hot water ablutions, MALONGANE 0972; camping per person US$13, 2-/4-/6-person chalets
plus two- and six-person self-catering chalets %21 US$47/112/180) Shaded camping near the beach Eating
and a restaurant. Boat transfers to Macaneta Ponta d’Ouro, with its long, wide beach, is at the southern end of town, plus tatty self- Café del Mar (%21-650048; cafédelmarponta@tropical
beach are included in half-board rates, and the first Mozambique stop for many travellers catering chalets with shared ablutions. There’s .co.mz; meals US$3-6; hlunch & dinner Wed-Mon) The
otherwise cost US$16 per person. doing a larger Southern Africa loop. Offshore a charge of US$0.40 per vehicle. It’s also the best food in town, featuring crêpes and other
Jay’s Beach Camp (%82-300 1430; camping per adult/ waters host abundant sea life, including dol- base for a handful of dive camps (see Diving, French fare, plus live music at weekends until
child US$12.50/6.25, 2-/4-/6-person chalets US$62/94/125; phins, whale sharks and – from July to Octo- above), which is where most budget travellers dawn. They also have rooms (per person with
s) Large, grassy grounds on the inland side ber – whales. Thanks to the area’s proximity to stay. Except as noted, all have simple tented half-board US$59). Look for the orange build-
of the dunes with camping and an ablutions South Africa, it fills up completely at holiday and/or reed hut accommodation, sharing ing on the hilltop in the town centre.
block, no-frills chalets and a braai area. Just weekends. ablutions with the camping ground, catered Also recommended:
over the dunes is a long, surf-pounded beach. About 5km north is the quieter Ponta or self-catering options, diving courses and Scandals (meals US$1.50-5) Just outside Tandje Beach
It’s 12km from the ferry and signposted (4WD Malongane, with a beautiful and seemingly equipment rental. Resort, with all-day breakfasts, omelettes and light meals.
 258 S O U T H E R N M O Z A M B I Q U E • • M a p u t o S p e c i a l R e s e r v e lonelyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N M O Z A M B I Q U E • • X a i -X a i 259

Fishmonger Barracas (%21-650026; meals from and you’ll need to pay vehicle and entry fees Girassol Bilene Lodge (%282-59071; www.girassol overnight stop if you’re driving to/from points
US$5) Opposite Café del Mar, with filling breakfasts and for the reserve. hoteis.co.za; chalets with half-board per person US$85; s) further north.
seafood platters. On the eastern banks of the lagoon, and just
A Florestinha do Índico (meals US$5-8) Lawn seating, Getting There & Away over the dunes from the sea, with four- and Sleeping & Eating
burgers and grills. Catembe Gallery Hotel (p255) operates all- six-person chalets scattered around the hill- Xai-Xai Camping & Caravan Park (% 282-35022;
inclusive day trips for US$85 (US$130 includ- side, and a restaurant. Access is via a short Praia do Xai-Xai; camping per site US$5, 2-person bungalows
Getting There & Away ing a night in one of their luxury rooms). boat ride across the lagoon. In Bilene, leave from US$22, 4-bed self-catering house US$55) Xai-Xai
Ponta d’Ouro is 120km south of Maputo (3½ Otherwise, you’ll need your own transport your car at the guarded lot opposite the Petro- Camping (ask for the campismo) has a shaded,
hours in a private vehicle), about 60km of (4WD). The main entrance, known as moc petrol station, and follow the short path beachside location, with rundown facilities.
which is soft deep sand (4WD only). campeamento principal, is marked with a rusty from there to the beach. It’s just north of Complexo Halley.
Chapas depart from Maputo’s Catembe signboard about 65km from Catembe along Praia do Sol (%82-3193040; www.pdsol.co.za; chalets Kaya Ka Hina (%282-22391; EN1; s/d with shared
ferry pier at 8am on Tuesday and Friday the Ponta d’Ouro road. From the turnoff, it’s or r with half-board per person US$86) About 4km south bathroom US$15/19, with air-con & private bathroom from
(US$5, five hours), and from Ponta d’Ouro 3km to the park gate, and then about 35km of town along the beach, with A-frame chalets US$24/26; a) Clean, no-frills rooms in the
at 8am Wednesday and Saturday. Otherwise, further through the reserve to the coast and overlooking the lagoon, plus some double town centre, and a restaurant (meals US$2
take the ferry to Catembe, where you can the camping ground. rooms. All come with bathroom and nets, to US$5). It’s about 100m north of the praça
find transport to Salamanga (US$2.50, 1½ and there’s a restaurant (no self-catering), a transport stand.
hours) or Zitundo (US$4.50, 4½ hours). From NAMAACHA bar and diving, canoeing, quadbikes and boat Complexo Halley (%282-35003, 282-35014; Praia do
Zitundo, there’s sporadic transport to Ponta %21 trips across the lagoon. Turn right onto the Xai-Xai; d with sea view US$36, ste from US$40; a) This
d’Ouro (US$1), 20km further south. Cool Namaacha sits on the Swaziland border beachfront road and continue for about 3km, long-standing beachfront hotel is the first
Kosi Bay border post is 11km south of 70km west of Maputo, with an ornate colo- staying right at the fork. place you reach coming down the access road
Ponta d’Ouro (4WD), but there’s no public nial-era church and streets lined by jacaranda Eateries – all on or just off the beachfront from town. It has a breezy seaside esplanade,
transport. Coming from South Africa, there’s and flame trees. East of town is a rusty sign road – include Estrela do Mar and Complexo a restaurant (meals from US$2.50), pleasant,
a guarded lot at the border where you can marking the way down to a small cascata Aquarius (%281-59000; meals US$3-5), both with homey rooms (ask for one that’s sea-facing),
leave your vehicle (about US$5 per day). All (waterfall), 3.6km north of the main road. seafood grills; the basic Tchin-Tchin (meals US$1-3), and a weekend disco.
the hotels do pick-ups from the border, and Xisaka (%21-960330; s/d/ste Mon-Thu US$50/80/102, with grilled chicken and chips to go; and Café O
it’s easy hitching at weekends. Fri-Sun US$39/55/70; ais), behind the church, Bilas (pizzas from US$3), next to the petrol station, Getting There & Away
has rooms with TV, and a restaurant. with pizzas and upstairs seating. Buses to/from Maputo depart daily in each
MAPUTO SPECIAL RESERVE Chapas run frequently to/from Maputo direction at about 6am and 1pm (US$5, four
En route to Ponta d’Ouro and two hours from (US$2). Getting There & Away hours) from the Oliveiras depot on the main
Maputo is the Maputo Special Reserve (Reserva Bilene is 140km north of Maputo and 40km road opposite Banco Austral. However, it’s
Especial de Maputo; adult/child/vehicle US$8/2/8), which BILENE off the main road. A direct chapa departs faster to take one of the north–south through
was gazetted in 1969 to protect the local ele- %281 Maputo’s Xipamanine market (beyond the buses. Wait by the Pôr do Sol complex on the
phant population and several turtle species. This small resort town sits on a large lagoon western end of Avenida Eduardo Mondlane) main road at the southern end of town or,
Due to the war and poaching, it’s estimated separated from the open sea by a sandy spit. at about 7am. Otherwise, go to Junta and better, take a chapa to the bridge control post
that only about 180 elephants remain, most of Its calm waters are good for swimming, al- have any northbound transport drop you at (pontinha), where all traffic needs to stop.
which are quite skittish and seldom seen. The though conditions vary markedly with the Macia junction, from where pick-ups run Chapas, including to Macia (for Bilene)
MOZAMBIQUE

MOZAMBIQUE
main attractions are the pristine wilderness seasons. If you’re based in Maputo and have throughout the day to/from Bilene (US$0.50, ,depart from the praça transport stand near
feel of the place – it offers a true bush adven- a car at your disposal, it’s an enjoyable week- 30 minutes). the old Pôr do Sol complex.
ture close to the capital – and its 300-plus end excursion, but if you’re touring and want Departing from Bilene, a bus to Maputo To Praia do Xai-Xai (US$0.20), chapas de-
bird species, including fish eagles and many some beach, it’s better to head further north leaves daily at 6am (and sometimes again at part from the praça transport stand (or catch
wetland species. The coastline here is also an to Tofo or south to Ponta d’Ouro. 1pm) from the town centre near the market them anywhere along the main road) and go
important nesting area for loggerhead and (US$3.60, four to five hours). Otherwise, to within at least 700m of the beach.
leatherback turtles; peak breeding season is Sleeping & Eating take a chapa (from the roundabout at the en-
November to January. For the camping ground Complexo Palmeiras (%281-59019; www.palmeiras.itgo trance to Bilene, about 2km from the beach) AROUND XAI-XAI
(camping per adult/child US$6/3), on the beach, you’ll .com; camping per site US$12, plus per person US$5, 4-person to Macia, and then get onward transport The lagoon-studded coast north and south of
need to bring food, water and everything else chalets US$45) At the northern edge of town on from there. Xai-Xai has a string of attractive beaches – all
with you. the beach, with camping, no-frills chalets and quiet, except during South African school
Continuing north within the reserve, past braai facilities. Follow the main road into XAI-XAI holidays, and a fine destination if you have
its northern boundary and on to the tip of the town to the final T-junction, then go left for %282 your own vehicle.
Machangula Peninsula, brings you to Ponta about 1km. Xai-Xai (‘shy-shy’), the capital of Gaza prov- Protea Zongoene Lodge (%in South Africa 012-346
Torres Camp (%82-252 4670, in South Africa 083-460 Pousada São Martinho (%281-59058; d US$20, ince, is a long town stretched out along the 8868; www.zongoene.com; camping per site US$8, plus per
9492; www.africaafrica.co.za/Pontatorres.htm; per person 4-person chalets US$80-100; s) Simple rooms, plus EN1. It’s of little interest to tourists, but its person US$14, 4-person self-catering house from US$195,
US$38), a self-catering place (minimum four block-style self-catering chalets, each with a beach (Praia do Xai-Xai or Xai-Xai Beach), s/d with half-board US$161/258) is a luxurious South
persons) on Cabo Santa Maria (p255) targeted tiny porch and a small living room. It’s just up about 10km from the town centre, has invig- African–run place just south of the Limpopo
at anglers and birders. A 4WD is essential, from the beachfront road. orating sea breezes and makes an agreeable River Delta offering chalets, beachside cabins,
 260 S O U T H E R N M O Z A M B I Q U E • • L i m p o p o N a t i o n a l Pa r k lonelyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N M O Z A M B I Q U E • • Z á v o r a 261

camping, a restaurant and the usual array of 50km from Giriyondo border post. Tent rental ZÁVORA INHAMBANE 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
activities. Turn off the EN1 about 15km south is US$4 per day. About 55km north of Quissico and about
of Xai-Xai, from where it’s 35km further down Covane Community Lodge (covane2006@yahoo.com 80km south of Inhambane is Závora beach, A B
a sandy track. .br; camping per person US$8, 3-person tent US$18, bungalow with the rustic Závora Lodge (www.zavoralodge INFORMATION
Banco Austral...........................1 A3
Paraíso de Chidenguele (%in South Africa 082-550 d US$28, 5-person chalets US$64) A recommended .com; camping per person US$8.50-12.50, 4-/6-bed bungalows BIM.........................................2 A4
7559; www.chidbeachresort.com; 4-/6-/8-person chalets community-run place on a rise overlooking US$94/140, 8-bed house US$212). In addition to camp- 1 Centro Provincial de Recursos
Digitais de Inhambane..........3 B4
US$155/208/258, ‘overnight rooms’ per person US$36) is a Massingir Dam and Nova Lake, with camping, ing, including a few sites on the sea side of the
low-key self-catering resort about 70km north plus traditional houses and chalets, good local dunes, it has self-catering reed bungalows and SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Cathedral of Nossa Senhora
of Xai-Xai and 5km off the main road, with meals and sunset views over the water. Staff serves meals with advance notice. The bunga- de Conceição.......................4 A3
self-catering thatch-and-wood chalets, a bar, can help you organise trips into the park and lows and houses come with bedding and nets, Museum...................................5
New Mosque...........................6
B3
B3
and meals with advance notice. boat trips on the lake. Chapas run daily from but otherwise, bring everything with you. It’s Old Mosque............................7 A3
Nhambavale Lodge (%in South Africa 082-326 6350; Maputo’s Junta to Massingir town (US$7), 17km from the EN1 (usually negotiable with SLEEPING
www.nhambavale.co.za; camping per person US$14, chalet where staff will come and collect you. 2WD); the turn-off is signposted 11km north Escola Ferroviária de
Moçambique........................8 B3
d US$64) is a relaxing lodge just north of Paraíso Machampane Wilderness Camp (www.dolimpopo of Inharrime town. Pensão Pachiça........................9 A3

Ὀ
de Chidenguele and 2km in from the sea on .com; tent s or d with full-board US$285) Limpopo park’s 2
Lake Inhampavala. only luxury camp, with five well-located safari INHAMBANE EATING
Á Maçaroca........................... 10 A4
Sunset Beach (%82-057 5960; www.sunsetbeache tents directly overlooking the Machampane %293 Fatucha Café.........................11 A3
Restaurant Tic-Tic..................12 B4
.com; 6-person chalets US$225, 3-person rondavels US$90), at River in the sanctuary area, and about 20km Inhambane is one of Mozambique’s most
the southern edge of Chidenguele beach, has from Giriyondo border post. Guided day charming towns and one of its oldest settle- TRANSPORT
Bus Station.............................13 B4
stone-and-thatch self-catering chalets, small and overnight walks can be arranged, as can ments. Well before the Portuguese arrived, it Ferry & Dhows to Maxixe......14 A3
rondavels and a restaurant. vehicle safaris. was a stop for Muslim dhows plying the coast,
and from the 18th century, Inhambane was an 9
7 Inhambane Bay

Rua 3 de
Josina
LIMPOPO NATIONAL PARK Getting There & Away

Rua dos Contin

Machel
important trading port for ivory and slaves. 5

ncia
Park 6
Together with South Africa’s Kruger and The Giriyondo border post is about 70km In 1834 it was ravaged by Chief Soshangane’s 3

igilâ
Fevereiro

da V
Zimbabwe’s Ghonarezhou National Park, west of Massingir; see p299. If entering Lim- warriors, but soon recovered to become one of New Cathedral

Ave
this park (Parque Nacional do Limpopo; %21-713000; popo from South Africa, you’ll also need to the largest towns in the country. During the

uad
8
11 1

ore
adult/child US$8/2) forms part of the Great Lim- pay Kruger park entry fees, and Kruger’s 20th century, focus shifted southwards, and 4

s
Ave da Independência
popo Transfrontier Park (see the boxed text, gate quota system (see www.sanparks.org Inhambane declined. 14 Train Station
(disused)
p67). Ghonarezhou connections are still in for information) applies. Only 4WDs are Today, it’s a sleepy place with quiet, shaded 10

Ave de Moçambique
2
the future, but Kruger and Limpopo are now permitted to cross. The main Mozambique streets lined with old houses and buildings.

Ave Eduardo
linked via the Giriyondo border post. park entrance is Massingir Gate (h6am-6pm), 3

Ave Ac
Market 12
The most interesting area is the ‘sanctu- about 5km from Massingir town. Information

ção
ordo
ary’ – a 30,000 hectare tract along the Kruger Banco Austral (Avenida da Independência) ATM; on the 4 13

olu
Mondlane

s de Lusaka
border where wildlife translocation efforts QUISSICO north side of the road.

Rev
To Airstrip
%293

da
are focused. While sightings are still hit and BIM (Avenida Acordos de Lusaka) ATM; opposite

Av M
Inhambane (5km); Tofo

Ave

e ach
Bay (22km); Barra

Sa e
miss, the bush ambience is alluring. There Quissico, capital of Zavala district, sits on an
MOZAMBIQUE

Á Maçaroca restaurant.

MOZAMBIQUE
m l
(22km)

or
To Lindela (35km);

a
are people living within the park boundaries, escarpment overlooking a chain of shimmer- Centro Provincial de Recursos Digitais de ENI (35km)

so it’s likely that you’ll also see some of these ing, pale blue lagoons. The surrounding area is Inhambane (per min US$0.02; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri,
communities and their livestock on the park’s famed for its Chopi timbila (marimba) players, 9am-4pm Sat) Internet access. Sleeping & Eating
eastern fringes. and Quissico is the site of an annual timbila Pensão Pachiça (%293-20565, 293-20046; farolturismo@
Most visitors use Limpopo as a transit cor- festival, usually held sometime between June Sights teledata.mz; Rua 3 de Fevereiro; dm US$11, d US$40) This
ridor between Kruger and the coast. There’s and August. Attractions in Inhambane include the 18th- backpackers on the waterfront has been given
also a four-day 4WD ‘ecotrail’ (per vehicle Pousada de Zavala ‘Quissico’ (%293-65007; EN1; century cathedral near the water, and the old a complete refurbishing and is the best place
US$594) between Kruger’s Punda Maria r US$10-14), in the town centre, has undistin- and new mosques. There’s a tiny museum (Avenida to stay, with dorm beds, rooms, a restaurant-
camp and the Komatipoort border post (book guished rooms with shared bathrooms, and da Vigilância; admission free; h8am-3pm Mon-Sat) near bar and a rooftop terrace. Take a left coming
through www.dolimpopo.com or www.san a restaurant. the new mosque. off the ferry jetty and continue about 300m.
parks.org), plus several multinight hiking Praia Mar e Sol (www.reviteresort.com; camping per Escola Ferroviária de Moçambique (%293-20781;
trails (see www.dolimpopo.com for details adult/child US$12/6, chalet per person US$34) offers camp- Avenida de Moçambique; r with/without fan US$19/15)
and bookings). ing and a six-person self-catering chalet on LAND OF THE GOOD PEOPLE By the train station at the eastern edge of
the inland side of the dunes, about 11km from On arrival in Inhambane, the 15th-century town, this is the only other option, with
Sleeping Quissico near the lagoon. Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama was functional but soulless attached doubles (no
Campismo Aguia Pesqueira (camping per person US$4) Quissico is 130km northeast of Xai-Xai. To reportedly so charmed by the locals that he nets) sharing a bathroom. From the ferry
This park-run camping ground with cold- reach the lagoon and Praia Mar e Sol, take the gave the area the name terra da boa gente jetty, continue straight through town to the
water ablutions is along the edge of the escarp- signposted turn-off just north of town, from or ‘land of the good people’. end of the main road and look for the grey
ment overlooking Massingir Dam, and about where it’s 11km further (4WD). monstrosity.
 262 S O U T H E R N M O Z A M B I Q U E • • A r o u n d I n h a m b a n e Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N M O Z A M B I Q U E • • B a r r a 263

Á Maçaroca (%293-20489; Avenida Acordos de Lu- US$155, 6-person houses US$219), just south, with Casa Barry (%293-29007; www.casabarry.com; camp- town centre, with delicious seafood dishes and
saka; meals US$6-10; h9am-11pm Mon-Sat) One block large reed-and-thatch chalets and a restaurant ing per site US$8, reed/brick casita d US$70/86, 4-/6-person a Sunday breakfast buffet.
south of Avenida da Independência; has grilled on the dunes. chalets US$172/206) Well located on the beach at Casa de Comer (%82-764 8160; meals US$7; h10am-
fish, meat and curries. About 35km southeast of Inhambane is the southern end of town, with a camping area 9pm Wed-Mon) Mozambique-French fusion cui-
For inexpensive local meals try Fatucha Café Pandane beach, where the family-friendly Pain- to the back, a beachfront collection of closely sine in the town centre.
(Avenida da Independência; meals from US$2) or Restaurant dane Beach Resort (%082-569 3436; www.paindane spaced, rustic reed-and-thatch self-catering
Tic-Tic (Avenida da Revolução 227a; meals US$2-3), diag- .com; camping per adult/child US$10/5, 4-/6-person chalets chalets and a restaurant. Getting There & Away
onally opposite the market. from US$91/118, 8-person villas from US$250) offers camp- Pensão Tofo (%82-827 4590; dm US$8, d US$23; a) There are chapas throughout the day along
ing barracas, reed-and-thatch chalets on the Small, clean and without the beach vibes, but the 22km sealed road between Tofo and
Getting There & Away dunes, a restaurant and snorkelling just off nevertheless a good budget bet. There’s a dorm Inhambane, departing Tofo from about 6am
AIR shore. and a double with shared bathroom, a kitchen, (US$0.60, one hour). To Maputo or points
LAM has three flights weekly to/from Maputo All places are accessed by signposted ac- fan and nets. It’s opposite Tofo On-Line in the north, you’ll need to go via Inhambane or
(US$164 one way), and there are frequent cess roads (4WD) off the main road south town centre. Maxixe, which means that to catch an early
charters to/from Johannesburg, best booked of Inhambane, and most can also organise Bamboozi (%293-29040; camping US$9, dm US$14, north/southbound express bus, you’ll need to
with hotels in Tofo and Barra. transfers to/from Inhambane. 2-/4-person bungalows US$23/46, 4-person chalets US$94, stay in Inhambane the night before.
honeymoon ste US$94; s) Bamboozi has a large, cir-
BOAT TOFO cular dorm, camping, bungalows and a kitchen BARRA
An old and precipitously overloaded ferry %293 area set under the palms on the back side of %293
operates from sunrise to sundown between Tofo has long been legendary on the Southern a high dune, plus a dune-top bar-restaurant. Barra sits at the tip of the Barra peninsula,
Inhambane and Maxixe (US$0.50, 25 min- Africa holidaymakers’ scene, with its azure It’s 3km north of town along a sandy road. where the waters of Inhambane Bay mix with
utes), alternating with smaller motorboats. waters, long arc of beach, easy access and Wednesday and Friday are party nights. those of the Indian Ocean. It’s beautiful, but
Dhows do the trip more slowly for US$0.15. perpetual party-time atmosphere. Just to the Mango Beach (%82-943 4660; luckylil@webmail.co.za; unlike Tofo, there’s no town, and everything’s
The first boats to Maxixe depart at dawn. south and easily accessed from Tofo is Tofinho, r US$20, 4-person houses US$55, 6-person chalets US$102) A spread out. Many self-drivers prefer Barra’s
Mozambique’s unofficial surfing capital. large place behind the dunes about 4km north quieter scene and its greater range of mid-
BUS Tofo On-Line (per hr US$5; h10am-6pm Thu-Tue) has of town, with a cluster of simple bungalows range accommodation options, but Tofo is a
The bus station is behind the market. Chapas internet access. The closest ATMs and banks and some nice, well-equipped self-catering better bet if you’re backpacking.
to Tofo run throughout the day (US$0.60, one are in Inhambane. chalets behind the dunes, plus a dune-top Dive operators include Barra Lodge Scuba
hour). Oliveiras buses to Maputo depart at restaurant. Diving (www.barradiveresorts.com; Barra Lodge) and Barra
6am and 11am (US$9, seven hours, 450km). Activities Hotel Tofo Mar (%82-294 5150; hoteltofomar@yahoo Reef Divers (www.barrareef.co.za; Barra Reef ).
It’s faster to catch one of the 30-seaters, such Together with Tofo’s beach, diving has put .com.br; s/d US$38/70, with sea view from US$42/75; a)
as Inhambane Ceu and Inhambane Expresso, Tofo on the map. Operators (both PADI Gold Situated in a prime location directly on the Sleeping & Eating
which depart at 5am (US$8). For other south- Palm) include Diversity Scuba (%293-29002; www beach in the town centre, this is the only Farol de Barra (%82-960 3550; www.barralighthouse
bound buses, and for all northbound trans- .diversityscuba.com) and Tofo Scuba (%82-826 0140; hotel (ie nonbungalow-style place), and quite .com; camping per adult/child US$12/6) Under the same
port, you’ll need to head to Maxixe. www.tofoscuba.com). faded these days, though there are renovations management as Pensão Pachiça in Inham-
Coming from Maputo, Inhambane Ceu and Tofinho’s Turtle Cove (below) is ‘surfing planned. bane, with good camping on the beach at
other smaller buses depart Junta between 5am Mozambique’. The Waterworks Surf & Coffee Nordin’s Lodge (%293-29009; 2-/4-person chalets Barra point and a small bar-restaurant. Elec-
MOZAMBIQUE

MOZAMBIQUE
and 7am. Alternatively, take any northbound Shop (opposite) rents and sells gear. US$50/100) The quiet Nordin’s is at the far north- tricity per day is US$5. Take the signposted
bus to Maxixe. ern end of town, and just south of Fatima’s sandy (4WD only) right off the Barra road,
For shuttles between Swaziland and Tofo, Sleeping Nest on the beach. It has thatched chalets that when coming from Bar Babalaza.
see p299. Fatima’s Nest (% 82-414 5730; www.mozambique come with hot water, fridge and self-catering Barra Lodge (%293-20561; www.barralodge.co.za;
backpackers.com; camping per person US$5, dm US$7-9, facilities. dm US$13, casita s/d with half-board US$132/221, 6-person
AROUND INHAMBANE 2-/3-person bungalows US$24/36) A friendly, low-key self-catering cottages US$181) One of Barra’s largest,
The string of beaches south of Inhambane are and rather makeshift place about 1.5km south Eating longest-running and most outfitted places,
mostly geared towards drive-in visitors look- of Bamboozi’s on low dunes overlooking Dino’s Beach Bar (meals from US$2; h10am-late Thu-Tue) with a range of accommodation – from small
ing for a self-catering vacation, and they fill the beach. On offer: camping, tents for rent Tofo’s main hangout, with good vibes, good twin-bedded reed casitas with bathroom to
up completely during South African holidays. (US$18), no-frills reed bungalows, a kitchen, music and good food on the beach just past larger self-catering cottages – plus a beachside
Most also organise diving and instruction. bar, pool table and evening beach bonfires. Fatima’s Nest. bar-restaurant, a full range of activities and
They include Jeff’s Palm Resort (%293-56063; Turtle Cove (%in South Africa 011-803 4185; www Waterworks Surf & Coffee Shop (breakfasts & light excursions to Pomene, further up the coast.
www.jeffsmoz.com; 8-person camping barracas US$34, plus .feralsurf.com; camping per person US$8, dm US$12, r per meals US$2-4; h7am-5pm Tue-Sun) Great breakfasts For backpackers, there’s a divers’ bunkhouse
per person US$10, 4-/8-person houses US$129/300), about person with bathroom in reed/stone bungalows US$16/22) with muesli, waffles and more, plus light with hot showers and a cooking area.
20km southeast of Inhambane, with self- This place is in Tofinho and it’s the spot to go meals. It’s next to Diversity Scuba in the Barra Reef (%293-56035; www.barrareef.co.za; bunk-
catering houses and camping barracas (shel- if you’re interested in surfing or chilling, with a town centre. house s/d US$26/31, 4-person casitas US$109, 5- or 6-person
ters) in the palm groves behind the dunes; mix of stone or reed bungalows, evening bon- Albatroz (%293-29005; restalbatroz@teledata.mz; self-catering villas US$125) About 1km beyond Barra
and Jangamo Beach Resort (%in South Africa 013- fires, yoga instruction and surfboard rental. meals from US$5, breakfast buffet US$14; hbreakfast Sun, Lodge, directly on the beach with no dunes in
750 2439; www.jangamo.co.za; d US$55, 6-person chalets Bring your own bedding for the dorms. lunch & dinner daily) At the top of the hill in the between, and self-catering chalets, bungalows,
 264 S O U T H E R N M O Z A M B I Q U E • • M a x i xe Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N M O Z A M B I Q U E • • V i l a n k u l o 265

a bunkhouse, a beachside restaurant-bar and LINGA LINGA VILANKULO Complexo Âncora (per half-hr US$1.60; h8am-8pm
lots of activities. Ponta Linga Linga has a small village and %293 Wed-Mon) Internet access.
Flamingo Bay Water Lodge (%293-56001; www.fla the very no-frills, backpacker-oriented Funky Vilankulo is the finishing (or starting) point Telecomunicações de Moçambique (TDM; per min
mingobay.co.za; s/d with half-board US$250/391; ais) Monkeys (camping per person US$4, dm US$4), with of Mozambique’s popular southern tourist US$0.04; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri) Internet access and
The most upscale choice, with luxurious nothing more to do than relax under the circuit, and the gateway for visiting the nearby telephone calls; behind Banco Austral.
wood-and-thatch stilt houses lined up in a palms. Prices are negotiable the longer you Bazaruto Archipelago. During holidays, it’s Tourist Services (%293-82228; margie@teledata.mz;
row over the bay past Barra Lodge, and a res- stay, and you can go canoeing in the nearby overrun with 4WDs, but otherwise is very h2-5pm Mon-Sat) Very helpful, with town maps and gen-
taurant. No children under 12 years of age. mangroves. quiet. eral info; about 500m north of Baobab Beach Backpackers.
Bar Babalaza (meals from US$2) About 6km from Take a chapa to Morrumbene (US$0.80 WWF Office (%293-82383; h7.30am-noon, 2-4pm
Barra at the junction where the roads to Tofo from Maxixe, US$3 from Vilankulo), then Orientation Mon-Fri) Near TDM; the place to pay entry fees for
and Barra diverge, with meals, drinks and air walk about 20 minutes to the water (ask for The bus stand, market and ATMs are at the Bazaruto National Park.
for your tyres. the ponta) to catch a dhow to Linga Linga southwestern end of town near the main junc-
(US$0.20). Sailings depend on the winds, but tion. About 3km northeast of here following Activities
Getting There & Away there’s usually a public boat departing daily the tarmac Avenida Eduardo Mondlane is Most dive sites are well offshore, around the
Barra Lodge and several other places offer except Sunday about 11am. Otherwise, hire Bairro Mukoke, with another ATM, the old Bazaruto Archipelago. The main operator is
fly-in packages from Johannesburg. your own for about US$6. When approaching Dona Ana Hotel (closed) and a cluster of Vilanculos Dive Charters (%82-856 2700; bigblue@
The turn-off for Barra is about 15km from Linga Linga, ask the captain to take you all the sleeping options within easy reach. The beach- teledata.mz; Aguia Negra Lodge), which also arranges
Inhambane en route to Tofo – go left at Bar way to the point. It’s also possible to hire a front road, with Sail Away and more sleeping snorkelling and island transfers.
Babalaza. There are daily chapas between dhow in Inhambane (about US$5, bring water places along it or just inland, parallels Avenida For day or overnight dhow safaris around
Inhambane and Conguiana village along the and shade); ask at Pensão Pachiça (p261) in Eduardo Mondlane to the east. the Bazaruto Archipelago, contact the recom-
Barra road, from where you’ll need to sort out a Inhambane. mended Sail Away (%293-82385, 82-387 6350; www
pick-up or walk (about 4km to Barra Lodge). Information .sailaway.co.za), on the road paralleling the beach
MASSINGA & MORRUNGULO BIM Expresso (Avenida Eduardo Mondlane; Bairro road, about 400m south of the old Dona Ana
MAXIXE %293 Mukoke) ATM. Hotel.
%293 Bustling Massinga has an ATM, and accom- Banco Austral (Avenida Eduardo Mondlane) ATM, and For fishing charters, boat hire, snorkel-
Maxixe (ma-sheesh), about 450km northeast modation and meals at Dalilo’s Hotel (%293- changes cash dollars; at the junction near the town entrance. ling and other water sports, contact Big Blue
of Maputo on the EN1, has little to recom- 71043; EN1; r with shared/private bathroom from US$20/30;
mend it except its convenient location as a a) at the northern end of town. VILANKULO Approximate Scale 0
0
600 m
0.4 miles
stopping point for traffic up and down the Several kilometres further north is the 6 Boats to Bazaruto
coast. It’s also the place to get off the bus and signposted turn-off for the beautiful Mor- A B Archipelago C D
To Aguia Negra Lodge (2km);
onto the boat if you’re heading to Inhambane, rungulo beach.

ck
Vilanculos Dive Charters (2km); 14

y Tra
Big Blue Adventures (2km);
across the bay. Morrungulo Beach Resort (www.morrungulo.co.za; Vila la Mar (2.2km); Vilanculos
Jetty
INFORMATION

Sand
Beach Lodge (2.5km) Banco Austral..........................................1 B3
Maxixe Camping (%293-30351; EN1; camping per camping per adult/child US$11/5.50, bungalow d US$78, 1
2
Harbour
BIM Expresso..........................................2 A1
Dona Ana Hotel
person US$5, 2-person beach bungalows from US$32) is next 4-person chalets US$144, bunkhouse per person about US$31) Complexo Âncora..............................(see 14)
Telecomunicações de Moçambique........3 B3
to the jetty, with camping and faded bunga- is a large self-catering complex (no restaurant), Bairro
Mukoke 16
18
10 Tourist Services.......................................4 B3
lows. You can leave your vehicle here while set among the palms, with a range of chalets,
MOZAMBIQUE

MOZAMBIQUE
WWF Office.........................................(see 3)
8
5
visiting Inhambane. a bunkhouse and a dive centre. Bookings are SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Pousada de Maxixe (%293-30199; EN1; d with essential during South African school holidays; Sail Away................................................5 B1

shared/private bathroom US$16/24), across the road bring your own bed sheets. SLEEPING
from Maxixe Camping, has grubby rooms, Baobab Lodge (%82-865 6980, 21-455010; baobab Casa Rex.................................................6
Complexo Turístico Josef e Tina..............7
B1
B3
but surprisingly good evening meals. _lodge@yahoo.co.uk; camping/barraca per person US$5/8, dm Na Sombra..............................................8 A1
Stop (%293-30025; EN1; meals from US$2; h6am- US$8, cliff/beach d US$30/35, 6-person cottages US$75-100) 2 11 Palmeiras Lodge......................................9 B2
INDIAN Smugglers.............................................10 B1
10pm), next to the jetty, has meals and also rents has good camping, rooms and a self-catering 9 OCEAN Vilanculos Camping..............................11 B2
Zombie Cucumber Backpackers............12 B2
clean rooms with air-con for US$26 nearby. cottage at the top of the small escarpment 12

For self-catering, try Taurus, which is just off (five minutes’ walk from the sea), plus more EATING

Ave Ed
Bar Ti'Zé...............................................13 B3
the EN1. self-catering cottages and camping down Complexo Âncora Seafood Restaurant & NY

uardo
near the water. There’s also a restaurant, and 7 Pizza.................................................14 B1
Restaurante Monica.............................(see 8)
Getting There & Away staff can help you organise visits to nearby
Mond
Smugglers Sports Bar..........................(see 10)
Buses to Maputo (US$8, 6½ hours, 450km) villages. lane Suleimane Esep Amuji (SEA)
Supermarket.....................................15 B3
depart from the bus stand by the Tribunal Taurus..................................................16 A1
from 6am. Chapas to Vilankulo (US$6, 3½ Getting There & Away 3
13 1 3
TRANSPORT
hours) and other points north leave from Most north–south buses stop at Massinga. 17
Padaria Bento Transport Stand..............17 B3
Praça 25 de Setembro, in front of the Con- Morrungulo is 13km from the main road; To Airport (3km); Pambara
15
Pataquina Bus Stand.............................18 A1
Market
selho Municipal. For information about the sporadic chapas run to within walking dis- Junction & EN1 (20km)
4
To Baobab Beach Backpackers (1km)
Inhambane ferry, see p262. tance of the lodges.
 266 S O U T H E R N M O Z A M B I Q U E • • V i l a n k u l o Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N M O Z A M B I Q U E • • B a z a r u t o A r c h i p e l a g o 267

Adventures (%293-82425, bigblue@teledata.mz; Aguia It can also be booked through Vilanculos two throughout the day (US$0.80). Except a) An unpretentious four-star getaway on
Negra Lodge). Beach Lodge. as noted, all transport departs from the main a tranquil bay with A-frame chalets amid
Casa Rex (%293-82048; www.casa-rex.com; s/d from road just down from Padaria Bento. lush gardens beneath the sand dunes, and a
Sleeping US$95/150; s) A small, upmarket getaway in To Maputo (US$16, nine to 10 hours), there honeymoon suite.
BUDGET peaceful, manicured grounds about 500m are two to three buses daily, departing town Indigo Bay (%293-82340; www.indigobayonline
Baobab Beach Backpackers (%293-82202, 82-731 5420; north of the Dona Ana Hotel. by 4.30am (no advance bookings). If you’re .com; Bazaruto Island; s/d US$365/540) The largest and
baobabmoz@yahoo.com; camping US$6, dm US$8, chalet d Vilanculos Beach Lodge (%293-82388; www.vilan staying in the Mukoke section of town, it’s most outfitted lodge in the archipelago, with
US$20, beachfront chalet d US$40) A beachside setting culos.co.za; s/d from US$117/203; ps) A large, busy easier to board the bus at Pataquina (down rooms and beachfront chalets, and a range
(though camping and most accommodation resort-style place about 1km north of Aguia the small street opposite BIM Expresso); the of activities.
is inland) and a definite party vibe. It’s at Negra Lodge, with chalets set back from the first bus of the day usually departs from here Benguerra Lodge (%in South Africa 011-452 0641;
the southern end of town, reached from the water on a hillside, a restaurant and a range between 3am and 3.30am before stopping at www.benguerra.co.za; Benguera Island; s/d with full board
bus station and market area via a sandy path of water sports. the main stand near Padaria Bento. Coming from US$534/790; s) One of the best and most
winding through the village. It is not safe to Vila la Mar (%293-82302; vilalamar@teledata.mz; from Maputo, get to Junta by about 4.30am. intimate of the island lodges, with spacious
walk this stretch alone – call and they’ll send 6-/10-person houses US$250/280) Spacious, beautiful One of the better lines is Xiluva, which departs luxury chalets near the beach, and a few honey-
someone to meet you. and well-equipped self-catering chalets, just from Junta about 5am. moon suites.
Complexo Turístico Josef e Tina (%293-82140; up from Aguia Negra Lodge. To Beira (US$12, nine hours), 30-seater
camping per tent US$10, rondavel d US$24, d from US$30) Just buses depart Vilankulo at 4.30am; book the Getting There & Away
up from Zombie Cucumbers with camping, Eating afternoon before. AIR
a self-catering area, basic reed bungalows Bar Ti’Zé (Avenida Eduardo Mondlane; meals from US$1) A To Chimoio, there’s a daily 30-seater bus Pelican Air flies between Johannesburg, Nels-
and several self-catering rooms in the main small local eatery on the main road near the departing Vilankulo at 4am (US$14, 8½ to pruit and Vilankulo, with connections to Ben-
house. bus stand, with fresh, inexpensive meals. nine hours). guera and Bazaruto islands; see opposite.
Zombie Cucumber Backpackers (www.zombie Restaurante Monica (Na Sombra; meals US$2.50-6) To Maxixe (for Inhambane), minibuses
cucumber.com; dm US$10, chalet d US$28; s) Lots of has delicious local cuisine. run daily throughout the day (US$6, four BOAT
green space, hammocks, a bar and a circular Smugglers Sports Bar (at Smugglers; meals from US$3) hours). All the top-end lodges can arrange speedboat
dorm, small chalets and great meals. It’s just Has good breakfasts and hearty pub fare. transfers for their guests. To charter your
back from the beach road, south of Palmeiras Complexo Âncora Seafood Restaurant/NY Pizza Getting Around own speedboat (from about US$100 return),
Lodge. (%293-82444; pizzas & meals US$4-10; h7am-10pm Vilankulo is very spread out. There are no contact Vilankulo dive operators or Big Blue
Vilanculos Camping (%293-82043; www.vilanculos Wed-Mon) A piece of Americana in the middle taxis, but lifts are easy to find. Occasional Adventures (opposite).
camping.co.za; camping per person US$11, chalets per person of Mozambique, with large portions, pizza, chapas run along the main road, but not out Alternatively, you can reach the islands by
US$16-23) This large, shaded camping area on apple pie and a waterside eating area. to the beach places on the northeastern edge dhow from Vilankulo, best arranged through
the inland side of the beach road also has a For self-catering, try the Suleimane Esep of town. Sail Away (p265). There are also numerous
few straightforward rooms and bungalows Amuji (SEA) Supermarket near the market, freelancers who will offer to take you over,
with bedding. or Taurus, diagonally opposite BIM. BAZARUTO ARCHIPELAGO some reliable, and others not. Check with
Na Sombra (%293-82429; Bairro Mukoke; s/tw/d with The Bazaruto Archipelago is the quintessen- tourist information or with your hotel for
shared bathroom US$11/14/16) Small, no-frills rooms, Getting There & Away tial tropical paradise, with clear, turquoise recommendations. Expect to pay from about
and a good restaurant. waters filled with pretty fish, colourful birds US$60 per boat for a day sail, and don’t pay
MOZAMBIQUE

AIR

MOZAMBIQUE
LAM flies four times weekly to/from Maputo and top diving and snorkelling. There are until you’re safely back on land.
MIDRANGE & TOP END (US$216 one way), three times weekly to/from five main islands – Magaruque (Santa Isabel), For nonmotorised dhows, allow plenty of
Smugglers (%293-82253; www.smugglers.co.za; s/d with Chimoio and weekly to/from Beira. Pelican Air Benguera (Santo António), Santa Carolina extra time to account for wind and water
shared bathroom US$38/55, s/d US$44/66; ps) Just (%293-82348, in South Africa 011-973 3649; www.pelicanair (Paradise Island), Bazaruto and tiny Bangué – conditions; from Vilankulo to Benguera or
north of the Dona Ana Hotel on the inland .co.za; airport) flies daily between Johannesburg spread out 10km to 25km offshore between Magaruque takes two to six hours.
side of the road, with pleasant rooms around and Vilankulo (US$266 one way), sometimes Vilankulo and Inhassoro. Much of the area is
cool, lush gardens, and a restaurant. via Nelspruit, and with onward connections to protected as a national park (adult/child US$8/2). INHASSORO
Aguia Negra Lodge (%293-82387; www.aguianegra Bazaruto and Benguera Islands. Swazi Express Inhassoro is the last of the southern beaches
.co.za; chalet s/d US$55/86, with air-con US$86/140, 6-person (%in Swaziland 518-6840; www.flyswazi.com; airport) has Sleeping & Eating before the EN1 turns inland, and a popular
chalets about US$147; pas) About 2km north three flights weekly between Vilankulo, Dur- Ponta Dundo Camp (Bazaruto Island; camping per person destination for South African anglers.
of the Dona Ana Hotel, with breezy A-frame ban and Swaziland’s Matsapha Airport. US$15) The only budget accommodation in Hotel Seta (%293-91000/1, 82-302 0990; camping per
chalets on large, grassy grounds overlook- The airport is 3km from town. There are the archipelago, this place was soon to open adult/child US$8/4, chalets US$32-45) has camping, plus
ing the sea, plus newer air-con rooms, good no taxis, so you’ll need to arrange a lift with at the time of writing. It’s run by the local agreeable white stone-and-thatch cottages and
breakfasts and a restaurant. a hotel, or hitch. community in partnership with the national a restaurant.
Palmeiras Lodge (% 293-82257; cottage s/d park, with fixed double tents. Bring food and Inhassoro is about 15km east of the main
US$66/109; s) Just in from the beachfront road, BUS drink, and get an update in Vilankulo before road. Chapas run daily to/from Vilankulo
with nice whitewashed stone-and-thatch Vilankulo is 20km east of the EN1 down heading over. (US$2, 45 minutes), and there’s a daily bus
cottages set in green grounds. Continental a tarmac access road, with the turn-off at Bazaruto Lodge (%21-305000; reservas@pestana to/from Maputo (US$15, 10 hours). To Beira,
breakfast is included; there’s no restaurant. Pambara junction. Chapas run between the .co.mz; Bazaruto Island; s/d with full board from US$225/365; go to Macovane (the junction with the EN1)
 268 C E N T R A L M O Z A M B I Q U E • • B e i r a Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com C E N T R A L M O Z A M B I Q U E • • B e i r a 269

and wait for passing northbound buses from Post office (Rua Correia de Brito) BEIRA Minor Roads Not Depicted
0
0
600 m
0.4 miles
there. Driving northwards, there’s a bridge Standard Bank (Praça do Metical) ATM; changes travel-

ὈὈὈ
Train Station

Púngoè
A B C D

he ra
Port

River
(toll US$0.80, open 5am to 8pm) across the lers cheques (minimum US$35 per transaction, purchase

ac o
M Sam
l
Save River. receipts required). To Mar Azul (1km); Buses to Quelimane (1km);

e
Av
Ave Poder
Airport (7km); Dondo (25km); Rio Savane

Rua Costa Ser

(40km); EN1 (125km)
Telecomunicações de Moçambique (Rua Companhia

Ave
Rua dos Av

R ua M
eA

CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE
15 Açores
de Moçambique; h7am-10pm) Domestic and interna-

do
rm
1 14 an
do INFORMATION SLEEPING

. Santo
Baga
Popular
T 17 BCI Fomento............................1 A2 Beira Guest House......................8 B3
tional telephone calls. Just off Praça do Município. Rua da ivan Rua Alfredo Lawley

rão
11 e

moio
Clínica Avicena......................... 2 A1 Hotel Infante..............................9 A2

s
Madeira
Teledata (Rua Companhia de Moçambique; per hr US$2; end e Post Office...............................3 B2 Hotel Miramar.........................10 C3

ὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
2 r Can to Res
Rua Artu
Central Mozambique – Sofala, Manica, Tete h7.30am-7pm) Internet; diagonally opposite the Praça do
Metical
13 21 19
Da A
nie ve
l N de
Standard Bank..........................4 A1
Telecomunicações de
Hotel Tivoli...............................11
Pensão Moderna......................12
A1
B3
4
and Zambézia provinces – doesn’t draw the telecom office. Praça do apa
t
Moçambique.......................5 A2
Municipio ina Teledata..................................6 A2 EATING
tourist crowds, but it’s a convenient transit

Rua
5 Café Riviera..............................13 A1
zone for travel to/from Malawi and Zimbabwe. Sights & Activities

Aug
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Pappas.....................................14 A1
6

usto
Cathedral.................................7 B2 Pic-Nic......................................15 A1
Among its attractions are wild Gorongosa For relaxing, try Makuti beach, with breezes and Hotel Ru
18 Praça do Restaurante Kanimambo..........16 A2

Cas
aM Maquinino Av
National Park, beautiful hill landscapes and sunset views, or the swimming pool (Avenida das Embaixador
a
eA Shoprite....................................17 B1

tilho
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Ὀ
Mozambique’s highest peaks. FPLM; per day US$4) at Clube Náutico. 2 16 1 Se
rpa an nd
e o
Pin TRANSPORT
9 to
Beira’s cathedral (Avenida Eduardo Mondlane) was Golf Course LAM........................................18 A2
Main Transport Stand...............19 A1
BEIRA built in the early 20th century with stones 3 Panthera Azul & Prédio Grelha..20 A2
%23

ilva
from the old San Caetano fort (1505) in So- Taxi Stand................................21 A1

aS
20 7

sd
Av
Beira, Mozambique’s second-largest city and fala. The streets around the port are lined with

ere
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Julho
Alf
ou Park Rua
zin
busiest port, is as famed for its steamed crabs faded colonial-era buildings. Ro

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de 12 8 rto Palmeiras

Ave 24 de
and prawns as for its tawdry nightlife. Alb
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About 40km south is the site of the ancient Sleeping Ru
aD
rqu Ponta Gêa eia To Clube Náutico (1km);

l Ma
e Av
.F de Makuti Beach (2km);
ran e Bri
gold-trading port of Sofala, which in its 15th- BUDGET Ed Biques (2km); Jardim

chad
cis ua to
co rdo das Velas (3km);
3 de e a
century heyday was one of East Africa’s most Rio Savane (%23-323555, 82-385 7660; camping per M a d li

o
A lm on Ru Amé Lighthouse (3km)
eid dla to Ave Jaim
influential centres, with links to Madagascar, person US$3, 5-person barracas US$6 plus per person US$6, self- a ne Por Sigaúq e
ue

Rua CCXII
India and beyond, though nothing remains catering bungalows d/q US$50/100) About 40km north Sa Praça da
Ave Mateus nsão Mu 10 Brito Capelo
of this today. of town on the Savane River, with camping, INDIAN them
ba Independência
Avenida da
s FPLM
OCEAN
barracas with mattresses and bedding, self-
Orientation catering chalets and meals. Take the Dondo
At the heart of the city are the adjacent squares road past the airport to the signposted turn- bets, with adequate rooms – most with fan cup of coffee and bolo de mandioca (almond
of Praça do Município and Praça do Metical, off. Continue 35km to the estuary, where and shared bathroom. It’s two blocks south cake) and watch the passing scene.
with shops, banks and internet nearby. North there’s secure parking and a boat (until 5pm) of the cathedral. Pappas (Rua dos Açores; meals from US$2.50) A bar-
of here is the old commercial area and the to take you to the camp. Pick-ups from Beira eatery with steak and seafood grills on sizzle
port. Various streets lead south and east from can be arranged. MIDRANGE & TOP END platters. It’s just down from Hotel Tivoli.
Praça do Município through the Ponta Gêa Biques (%23-313051; Makuti Beach; camping per per- Jardim das Velas (%23-312209; jardimdasvelas@yahoo Restaurante Kanimambo (%23-323132; meals
residential area to Avenida das FPLM, which son US$3.50; p) This faded camping ground US$4-7; hlunch & dinner Sun-Fri) Behind Hotel Em-
MOZAMBIQUE

.com; 282 Avenida das FPLM, Makuti Beach; d/f US$75/85;

MOZAMBIQUE
runs for several kilometres along the ocean to has seen much better days. However, the bar a) Near the lighthouse, and another good baixador; has Beira’s best Chinese food.
Makuti Beach and the lighthouse. and restaurant are popular, and have sunset place with well-equipped doubles and a family Pic-Nic (%23-326518; Rua Costa Serrão; meals from
views. Take any chapa towards Makuti and room with kitchenette. No meals. about US$4.50; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Once one of
Information ask them to drop you at the turn-off, from Beira Guest House (%23-324030; 1311 Avenida Beira’s best restaurants and rather riding on
There are ATMs at the airport, at Shoprite where it’s 400m further on foot. Taxis from Eduardo Mondlane; r/ste US$75/100; ai) A nice its past reputation these days, though portions
(opposite) and at BCI Fomento (Rua Major Serpa town cost US$3. residential style B&B in the Ponta Gêa area are large and service reasonable.
Pinto), opposite LAM. Hotel Miramar (%23-322283; Rua Vilas Boas Truão; with pleasant rooms with minifridge, TV and For waterside dining, try the restaurants at
Clínica Avicena (%23-327990, 84-302 1520; Avenida s/d/tw US$14/20/16; a) A faded classic, with no- laundry service. Breakfast is included, and Biques (opposite) or Clube Náutico (%23-311720;
Poder Popular; h24hr) For medical emergencies; just frills rooms – some with private bathroom – there’s a cook. Avenida das FPLM; meals US$6-11, plus per person entry
north of Praça do Metical. near the water (no beach), but inconvenient Hotel Tivoli (%23-320300; h.tivoli-beira@teledata.mz; US$0.40; hlunch & dinner).
for the rest of town. cnr Avenida de Bagamoyo & Rua da Madeira; s/d US$83/99; Self-caterers should head to Shoprite (cnr
Hotel Infante (%23-326603; Rua Jaime Ferreira; s/d pai) The Tivoli, with small but tidy Avenidas Armando Tivane & Samora Machel).
POUNDS STERLING with fan & shared bathroom US$24/28, with air-con & private rooms with TV and amenities has captured
Unlike Portuguese-dominated Maputo, bathroom US$26/30; a) In a high-rise building Beira’s business market. There is also an on- Getting There & Away
British influence was strong in late-19th- a few blocks from LAM, with small, clean site restaurant-bar. AIR
and early-20th-century Beira, and for a time rooms and a restaurant. There are flights on LAM (%23-324141/2; 85 Rua
the Bank of Beira even circulated sterling Pensão Moderna (%23-329901; Rua Alferes da Silva; Eating Major Serpa Pinto) weekly to/from Johannesburg,
currency. d/tr with shared bathroom US$24/31, d with air-con & private Café Riviera (Praça do Município; snacks & light meals from daily to/from Maputo, and several times
bathroom US$34; a) One of the better budget US$1.50; h7.30am-9pm) A good spot to sit with a weekly to/from Tete, Nampula, Quelimane,
 270 C E N T R A L M O Z A M B I Q U E • • G o r o n g o s a N a t i o n a l Pa r k lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com C E N T R A L M O Z A M B I Q U E • • C h i m o i o 271

Pemba, Vilankulo and Lichinga. The LAM of- CAR ecotourism and reforestation project on the Sleeping & Eating
fice is opposite Hotel Embaixador. Air Corridor Rental agencies include Imperial (%23-302650/1; mountain, centred on day or multinight hik- Pink Papaya (%82-555 7310, 82-237 2980; http://pink
(%23-302222/3; airport) stops at Beira on its daily www.imperial.co.za) and Avis (%23-301263, 82-502 5360; ing trails and birding. A base camp for hikers papaya.atspace.com; cnr Ruas Pigivide & 3 de Fevereiro; camping
run up and down the coast. SAAirlink (%23- avis.beira@teledata.mz), both at the airport. and birders is being set up near the beautiful per person US$4, dm US$8, d US$24) The best budget
301569/70; www.saairlink.co.za; airport) flies three times Morumbodzi Falls, which are on the mountain’s option, with camping, dorm beds and doubles,
weekly between Beira and Johannesburg. GORONGOSA NATIONAL PARK western side at about 950m. From the camp, and a kitchen and braai area. The owner can
About 170km northwest of Beira is Gorongosa there are paths to the falls, birding walks and also help arrange local excursions, including to
BUS & CHAPA National Park (Parque Nacional de Gorongosa; www overnight climbs to the summit (about six Gorongosa National Park. With the bus stand
Beira’s main transport stand is at Praça do .gorongosa.net; adult/child/vehicle US$8/2/8; hclosed 1 hours one way). A booking office and infor- to your right and train station to your left, walk
Maquinino. There’s no real order to things – Dec-1 Apr), once one of Southern Africa’s pre- mation centre for the mountain and park is straight and take the fourth right into Rua 3 de
ask locals where to go for buses to your mier wildlife parks, and now getting a second planned for Gorongosa town, where guides Fevereiro. Go one block to Rua Pigivide.
destination. wind thanks to assistance from the US-based and porters can also be arranged. Meanwhile, Residencial Flôr de Vouga (%251-22469; cnr Avenida
To Maputo, Panthera Azul (%23-325042, 82- Carr Foundation. Admission is payable in to organise hikes contact park headquarters 25 de Setembro & Rua Dr Araújo de la Cerda; s/d with shared
394 4551; www.pantherazul.com; Complexo SNJ, 43 Aven- meticais only. at travel@gorongosa.net. All fees (to be de- bathroom US$8/19) A homey place above the old
ida Mouzinho de Albuquerque) departs at 5am on While animal numbers still pale in compar- termined soon – watch the park website for Banco Austral building, which has no-frills
Thursday from the Panthera Azul office at ison with those of the park’s heyday, wildlife details) will go to the local communities. rooms.
Prédio Grelha, at the southwestern end of is making a definite comeback, and the park is The climb is quite steep on the mountain’s Hotel-Residencial Castelo Branco (%251-23934;
Avenida Samora Machel (US$44, 17 to 18 well worth a visit if you’re in the area. It’s likely upper reaches, and good shoes and a reason- Rua Sussundenga; r with/without breakfast US$62/50;
hours). Otherwise, there’s usually an ‘express’ that you will see impalas, waterbucks, oribis, able level of fitness are essential. pa) Catering to business travellers, this
bus (US$30, 18 hours) and/or one regular kudus, warthogs, hippos, elephants and – To get to the Morumbodzi base camp area, place has modern twin-bed rooms, and is just
bus daily (US$24), both departing by about with luck – even a lion or two, and the bird follow the EN6 from Beira to the turnoff at off Praça dos Heróis.
4.30am from the main transport stand; buy life (with over 300 species, including endemics Inchope. Continue north along the sealed Elo 4 (Avenida 25 de Setembro; meals US$3-8) Good
tickets the day before. Coming from Maputo, and near endemics) is wonderful. road, passing the turn-off for Gorongosa pizzas and Italian dishes.
the express bus departs Junta by 5.30am, and Vehicle rental and guides for wildlife drives park and continuing about 25km further Shoprite (EN6) About 2km east of the town
the normal buses – which overnight at the and (soon) walking safaris can be arranged to Gorongosa town. About 10km beyond centre.
Save River bridge – between about 6am and at park headquarters (%23-535012, 23-535003; Gorongosa town, turn off the main highway
7.30am. travel@gorongosa.net) in Chitengo, about 15km to the right, and continue 10km along an Getting There & Away
To Vilankulo (US$12, nine hours, 470km), east of the entry gate. There’s also a camp- unpaved track to the base camp. Via public AIR
there’s a direct bus daily departing the main ing ground (camping per person US$4) here, a good transport, take any northbound bus or chapa LAM (%251-22531; Mafúia Comercial, Rua dos Operários)
transport stand by about 5am. restaurant and several pleasant rondavels (s/d to Gorongosa town, where inexpensive trans- flies several times weekly to Vilankulo, Tete
To Chimoio (US$5, three hours, 200km) US$26/38), with more camping and rondavels, fers will be available from the Gorongosa and Maputo. The airfield is 10km from town,
and Machipanda (US$6, four hours), mini- plus luxury accommodation coming soon. information centre to the base camp and and signposted about 5km west of Chimoio
buses go throughout the day from the main Check the website for updates. Pink Papaya the park. off the Manica road.
transport stand. backpackers (opposite) in Chimoio also
To Tete (US$16, 10 hours, 600km), there organises overnight trips to the park. CHIMOIO BUS & CHAPA
are direct buses several times weekly, but it’s %251 All transport leaves from near the train sta-
MOZAMBIQUE

MOZAMBIQUE
best to go first to Chimoio and get transport Getting There & Away Low-key Chimoio is the jumping-off point for tion. Buses depart daily at 4am to Tete (US$9,
there (requiring an overnight in Chimoio). The park turn-off is at Inchope, about 130km exploring the Chimanimani Mountains, well six hours) and Vilankulo (US$14, 10 hours).
To Quelimane (US$16.50, nine hours), west of Beira, from where it’s 43km north southwest on the Zimbabwe border. Chapas to Beira (US$5, three hours) and
buses depart from Mar Azul in Pioneiros along excellent tarmac to Nota village and There are ATMs at Standard Bank (cnr Avenida Manica (US$1.80, one hour) run throughout
bairro, 1km north of the centre. then 17km east along an all-weather gravel 25 de Setembro & Rua Patrice Lumumba) and at Shoprite, the day.
Another option, for any northbound or road to the park gate. Within the park, 4WD and internet at Teledata (cnr Avenida 25 de Setembro
southbound transport, is to go to Inchope, is necessary. & Rua Mossurize; per min US$0.04; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, MANICA
130km west of Beira (US$2, two to three hours 9am-2pm Sat). %251
via chapa), where the EN6 joins the EN1, and MOUNT GORONGOSA About 5km northeast of town is Cabeça do Tiny Manica, 70km west of Chimoio, lies
try your luck with passing buses there. Just northwest of Gorongosa park is Mt Velho, a large rock resembling the face of an in what was once the heart of the kingdom
Gorongosa (1864m), Mozambique’s fourth- old man at rest. To get here, continue past of Manica and an important gold-trading
Getting Around highest mountain. It’s steeped in local lore, Magarafa market on Rua do Bárue. It takes area. About 5km from town and signposted
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT and known for its rich plant and bird life (it’s about 10 minutes to climb. (pinturas rupestres) are the Chinamapere rock
The airport is 7km northwest of town (US$8 the only place in Southern Africa for spot- About 35km west of Chimoio is the sign- paintings.
in a taxi). ting the green-headed oriole) and its lovely posted turn-off for Chicamba Real Dam, a popu- BIM Expresso (EN6) has an ATM.
waterfalls. lar bass anglers’ getaway. To the southwest About 20km north of Manica and strad-
CHAPA The Carr Foundation, which is financ- on the Zimbabwe border is Mt Binga (2437m), dling the Zimbabwe border is the scenic Penha
Chapas to Makuti (US$0.30) depart from the ing the rehabilitation of Gorongosa National Mozambique’s highest peak, which is best Longa area, where there are good walking (stick
main transport stand. Park, is also supporting a community-based climbed from Zimbabwe (see p714). to the beaten path).
 272 C E N T R A L M O Z A M B I Q U E • • Te t e Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com C E N T R A L M O Z A M B I Q U E • • C a h o r a B a s s a D a m & S o n g o 273

swathe of the Zambezi gives it a unique charm station, where you’ll find chapas to Matema, bungalows; bring food. For bookings, contact
SACRED FORESTS and an atmosphere quite unlike that pervad- and then on to the border. the Direcção Provincial do Turismo (%252-24225;
The beautiful foothills of the Chimanimani ing Mozambique’s other provincial capitals. For Chimoio (US$9, six hours), transport dpturismo@teledata.mz; Rua 3 de Fevereiro) in Tete.
Mountains are dotted with sacred areas. leaves from opposite Prédio Emose near
One of these is the dzimbahwe or chief’s Information Univendas; the first departures are between SENA & MUTARARA
compound. Each chiefdom has its own MBC Internet Café (Avenida Julius Nyerere; per min 4.30am and 5am. About 250km downstream from Tete along
spot, generally in a densely forested area, US$0.04; h7.30am-noon & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Chapas to Moatize (US$0.35) depart the Zambezi are the twin villages of Sena and
to which access is strictly limited. Another Sat) Diagonally opposite Univendas. throughout the day from Rua do Qua. Mutarara, connected by the Dona Ana railway
is the gwasha, a forest area used by chiefs, Standard Bank (cnr Avenida Julius Nyerere & Avenida To Songo (for Cahora Bassa dam), several bridge (now converted to take vehicles). There
elders and spirit mediums for rainmaking Eduardo Mondlane) ATM, and changes cash dollars; next to pick-ups daily depart from the old Correios are basic pensões in both towns.
and other ceremonies. Both the dzimbahwe Hotel Zambeze. (post office) building near the cathedral.
and the gwasha are treated with great re- CAIA
spect by local communities, and no devel- Sleeping & Eating CAHORA BASSA DAM & SONGO This village is the main north–south crossing
opment, wood cutting or harvesting are Hotel Zambeze (%252-23100/3; Avenida Eduardo Mond- %252 point over the Zambezi River. About 32km
permitted. Hunting is under the control of lane; s/d US$10/14, with air-con from US$16/22; a) Cheap About 150km northwest of Tete at the head of south of Caia along the main road in Catapu
the chiefs, as is the gathering of medicinal and centrally located, but otherwise unappeal- a magnificent gorge in the mountains is Ca- is the good M’phingwe Camp (www.dalmann.com; cab-
and other plants. ing. It’s next to Standard Bank. hora Bassa, the fifth-largest dam in the world. ins s/d with shared bathroom US$18/24, cabin s/d US$22/30),
Prédios Univendas (%252-23198/9, 252-22670; It harnesses the waters of the Zambezi River, which has spotless double cabins, meals and
Avenida Julius Nyerere; s/d with shared bathroom US$22/31, creating the massive Cahora Bassa Lake, a good birding.
Sleeping & Eating s/d from US$42/52; a) Near Standard Bank, with prime angling destination. The new highway from Inchope (on
Pensão Flamingo (%251-62385; EN6; r US$18) Spiffy, clean, spacious rooms, most sharing bath- To arrange visits to the dam, contact Hidro- the EN6) to Caia via the western edge of
no-frills rooms with fan, and a restaurant. rooms. There’s no food. eléctrica de Cahora Bassa (HCB; %252-82157, 252- Gorongosa park is excellent tarmac. From
Manica Lodge (%251-62452; manica.lodge@teledata Motel Tete (%252-22345; EN103; r US$42; pa) 82221/4; rp.sng@hcb.co.mz) in nearby Songo town Caia northwards, it’s under rehabilitation. A
.mz; small/large rondavels US$20/30) About 400m off On the river about 25 minutes’ walk from and ask for Relações Públicas. bridge is being built over the Zambezi. For
the main road at the western end of town, town along the Changara road, this is Tete’s now, the river is crossed by two ferries (per
with a restaurant and pleasant stone rondavels best, with pleasant rooms and a good riverside Sleeping & Eating vehicle with driver US$4, per person US$0.05,
(the large ones are much nicer than the small restaurant (meals from US$3); no alcohol. Centro Social do HCB (%252-82215, 252-82454, 252- running from 7am to 5pm).
ones) scattered around tranquil, manicured Pastelaria Confiança (Avenida 25 de Junho; light meals 82508; r/ste US$30/36; s) Comfortable twin-bed
grounds. from US$0.80; h7.30am-8pm Mon-Sat; a) has light rooms overlooking green lawns in the centre QUELIMANE
Quinta da Fronteira (camping US$3, r US$6) In Penha meals, and Pino’s Pizza (Avenida Eduardo Mondlane, of Songo. Its restaurant, Restaurante O Teles, %24
Longa, this old mansion has camping and a Hotel Zambeze; pizzas from US$2.50; hdinner) has good is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner (meals Quelimane is the capital of Zambézia prov-
few basic rooms. Bring food and drink. pizzas. US$5 to US$10). ince and heartland of the Chuabo people. It
Supermercado Tete (Avenida 25 de Junho) is the best Ugezi Tiger Lodge (%82-599 8410; c61@mweb.co.za; stands on the site of an old Muslim trading
Getting There & Away bet for self-caterers. camping per person US$11, chalets per person US$19-25, with settlement built on the banks of the Bons
All transport departs from the market, diag- air-con US$23-30; a) A rustic fishing camp on a Sinais (Qua Qua) River in the days when it
onally opposite BIM Expresso. Chapas run Getting There & Away hillside overlooking Lake Cahora Bassa, 14km was linked to the Zambezi River. At one time
MOZAMBIQUE

MOZAMBIQUE
frequently to/from Chimoio (US$1.80, one AIR from Songo town and 6km beyond the dam. it was the main entry port to the interior. Few
hour) and to the Zimbabwe border (US$0.60, LAM (%252-22056; Avenida 24 de Julho) flies several It has camping, no-frills chalets, a restaurant traces of Quelimane’s long history remain,
30 minutes), and several times daily between times weekly to/from Maputo, Beira, Lichinga, and boat charter. but the town’s compact size and energetic
Manica and Penha Longa (US$1, one hour). Nampula, Quelimane and Chimoio. The air- atmosphere make it an agreeable stop.
From the chapa terminus in Penha Longa, port is 6km from town; take any chapa head- Getting There & Away
it’s a 20-minute walk to the Mutombomwe ing to Moatize. There are no taxis. Chapas run daily between Tete and Songo Information
area, and then about 3km further to Quinta (US$4, three to four hours), departing Tete BIM Expresso (Avenida Josina Machel) Has an ATM.
da Fronteira. BUS & CHAPA from the old Correios (post office) building. Cine Estúdio (cnr Avenida Josina Machel & Rua Acordos
For Malawi, chapas run to Zóbuè (US$2, two From Songo, it’s 7km down to the dam (walk de Lusaka, 1st fl; per min US$0.04; h7am-8pm Mon-Fri,
TETE hours) and Dedza from Mercado da OUA on or hitch). Ugezi Tiger Lodge does pick-ups 8am-7pm Sat) Internet access.
%252 the western side of town. from Tete. Zambezia Travels (%24-216174; www.zambezia.ch;
Tete was an important trading outpost well For Harare (Zimbabwe), take a chapa to Avenida Kwame Nkrumah) The best contact for arrang-
before the arrival of the Portuguese and today Changara (US$2.80, 1½ hours) from Mercado ZUMBO ing visits to Gurúè, climbing Mt Namúli and other central
continues to be a major transport junction. 1 de Maio, and get transport from there. Alter- Remote Zumbo is the home of Tchuma Tchato Mozambique travels. It’s diagonally opposite Hotel Chuabo.
Apart from the suspension bridge over the natively, wait at the intersection of the bridge (camping per person US$3, bungalows per person US$10), a
Zambezi River, there are few attractions, and road and the road to Harare, and catch one of community-based natural resources project Sights
Tete’s reputation as one of the hottest places the daily Harare–Blantyre buses. with a small campsite on the riverbank The main sights are the abandoned Portu-
in Mozambique discourages visitors. Yet the For Zambia, take a Moatize chapa over the opposite Zumbo and about 5km from the guese cathedral on the waterfront and the
baobab-studded landscape cut by the wide bridge past the SOS compound to the petrol Zimbabwe border. There are also some basic nearby old mosque. About 30km northeast of
 274 C E N T R A L M O Z A M B I Q U E • • Q u e l i m a n e Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com C E N T R A L M O Z A M B I Q U E • • M o c u b a 275

QUELIMANE 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles The airport is 3km northwest of town along MOCUBA
Avenida 25 de Junho. %24
A B C D Mocuba is the junction town for travel be-
To Transport Stand (1km);
To Airport
(3km) Nicoadala (35km); Mocuba
INFORMATION
BIM Expresso.........................1 B2
Hotel Flamingo........................8 C3
Hotel Rosy...............................9 B2
BUS & CHAPA tween Quelimane and Nampula or Malawi.
(110km); Pebane (280km)
Cine Estúdio..........................2 C2 The transport stand is at the northern end Pensão Cruzeiro (%24-810184; Avenida Eduardo
Zambezia Travels...................3 C3 EATING
1 Ave 25 de Junho
Bar Refeba.............................10 C3
of Avenida Eduardo Mondlane. Chapas run Mondlane; r US$14) on the main street has basic
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Esplanada A Coquinha...........11 C2 frequently to/from Nicoadala at the junction rooms and meals (US$2).
Mosque.................................4 B3 Restaurante da Estação..........12 A2
with the main road (US$1.50, 45 minutes). Transport to Quelimane (US$4, two to

Ὀ
Old Cathedral........................5 B3 Salão de Chá Riviera..............(see 6)
Ave 7 de Setembro Supermercado Primavera.......13 A3 To Nampula, a Grupo Mecula bus departs three hours) leaves from the market. Trans-
SLEEPING
daily at 4.30am (US$14, 10 hours). Several port to Nampula (US$11, eight hours) leaves
sistência

Hotel 1 de Julho.....................6 B3 TRANSPORT

Ave Paulo Samuel Kankhomba

vehicles also run daily to Mocuba (US$4, from the northern end of the main street.
Ave Eduardo Mondlane

Hotel Chuabo.........................7 B3 LAM.......................................14 B3

Ave Filipe Samuel Magaia

Liberdade Nacional
Rua Che Gu
S New
us
Re

two to three hours), for onward transport to There are several vehicles daily between

Ave Heróis da
Train

Rua dos Trabalh

ate ba Cathedral To Cemetery (1km);
Station aM m
Rua da

Ru uthe Capuzínio & Chapas

(Disused) M to Zalala (2km); Nampula via Alto Molócuè, or to Milange Mocuba and Milange (US$6.50, four hours)
Zalala Beach (30km)
(Malawi border). departing from Mocuba’s market, though
evara

ὈὈ
2 Rua
To Gurúè (US$9.60, six to seven hours), you’ll maximise your chances of a lift by walk-
12 Ma Zede
adores
nga quia
nhe s
la 1
2 Sporting de
Quelimane e Benfica
there’s a bus daily at 4.30am; buy your ticket ing west past the airstrip to the Milange road
Ave Josina Machel the day before. junction.
gabe

Ave Francisco
Rua Pratrice

Nyerere
Stadium

Lumumba

Manyanga
Praça dos Heróis 11 Buses heading to Beira depart daily at 5am
Rua Roberto Mu

de Lusaka
9 Moçambicanos
(US$16.50, nine hours). MILANGE

Ave Julius
Ave 1 de Julho
Ave Kwame

Chapas to Zalala (US$1) depart Quelimane Milange is on the border with southeastern
1 de Julho

Nkrumah
Travessa

13 4 14 Rua Acordos
8
7 Hospital from the Capuchin mission (capuzinio), about Malawi. BIM Expresso has an ATM, and Pen-
Ave Samora Mac 1km from the cemetery on the Zalala road. são Lili (r US$12) has no-frills rooms and meals.
Novembro

hel
Rua 29 de

de Março

6
Rua 3

3
5 10
3
Praça da
Ave Marginal CLIMBING MT NAMÚLI
Independência
Jetty Rising up about 15km northeast of Gurúè are the mist-shrouded slopes of Mt Namúli (2419m),
Bons Sinais (Qua Qua) River Mozambique’s second-highest peak. The mountain is considered sacred by the local Makua people,
so while climbing is permitted, you’ll need to observe the local traditions. Before setting out, buy
some farinha de mapira (sorghum flour), rice and sugar at the market in Gurúè (it shouldn’t cost
town through the coconut plantations is the Eating more than US$1.50 for everything) for appeasing the spirits and the local régulo (chief ).
wide Zalala beach. Bar Refeba (Avenida Marginal; meals from $2.50) Near The climb begins about 6km outside Gurúè near UP5, an old tea factory: head south out
the old cathedral overlooking the river, with of Gurúè along the Quelimane road, go left after about 2km and continue several kilometres
Sleeping grilled prawns, grilled chicken and drinks. further to UP5.
Hotel 1 de Julho (cnr Avenida Samora Machel & Avenida Salão de Cha Riviera (cnr Avenida Samora Machel & Shortly before reaching UP5 you’ll see a narrow but obvious track branching left. Follow this
Felipe Samuel Magaia; tw with shared bathroom US$16, with Avenida Felipe Samuel Magaia; light meals US$3) Under- through unrehabilitated tea plantations and stands of bamboo and forest until a high valley
private bathroom & air-con US$28; a) Near the old neath Pensão 1 de Julho, with snacks and
MOZAMBIQUE

MOZAMBIQUE
about 800m below the summit. On the edge of this valley is Mugunha Sede, where you should
cathedral, with reasonable no-frills rooms. light meals. seek out the chief, request permission to climb further and get a guide. The sorghum flour that
Breakfast costs extra. Esplanada A Coquinha (cnr Avenidas Josina Machel you bought in Gurúè should be presented to the chief as a gift, who may save some to make
Hotel Rosy (%24-214969; cnr Avenidas 1 de Julho & Julius Nyerere; meals from US$4, Sun lunch buffet US$6; traditional beer, and scatter the remainder on the ground to appease the ancestors.
& Paulo Samuel Kankhomba; s/d US$24/28; a) Near hlunch & dinner) The place to go for local Zam- About two-thirds of the way from the village is a spring where you can refill your water bottle,
the old mosque, with good-value rooms with bézian cuisine. although it’s considered a sacred spot and it may take some effot to persuade your guide
bathrooms, breakfast and air-con (downstairs) Restaurante da Estação (%24-213730; Rua da Re- to show you where it is. After the spring, the climb steepens. Once near the summit, the path
or fan (upstairs). sistência; meals from US$5) A pizza oven and good- evens out and then gradually ascends for another 1.5km to the mountain’s highest point. After
Complexo Kass-Kass (%24-212302; 4-person bun- value Italian meals, with porch seating. descending the mountain, present the rice that you bought at the Gurúè market to the chief
galows US$32)At Zalala beach, there’s this place, Supermercado Primavera (Avenida 1 de Julho) For as thanks.
with grubby bungalows and meals. self-catering, try this supermarket, a block It’s possible to do the climb in a long day from Gurúè if you get an early start and drive as far
Hotel Flamingo (%24-215602; sogetra@teledata down from and opposite Hotel Rosy. as Mugunha Sede (about 40km from Gurúè by road), from where it’s about three hours on foot
.mz; cnr Avenida Kwame Nkrumah & Avenida 1 de Julho; s/d to the summit. To do the entire climb on foot from Gurúè, allow three days, walking the first day
US$50/60; as) New-ish rooms, and full break- Getting There & Away as far as Mugunha Sede (seven to eight hours from Gurúè), where the régulo will show you a spot
fasts and a restaurant. AIR to camp. The second day, head up to the summit and back, sleeping again in Mugunha Sede, and
Hotel Chuabo (%24-213181/2; fax 24-213812; Avenida LAM (%24-212801; Avenida 1 de Julho) flies four to returning the next day to Gurúè. With an early start, it’s possible to combine the second and third
Samora Machel; s/d US$56/60; a) A ageing Queli- five times weekly to/from Maputo, Beira, stages into one long day. Camping on the summit isn’t permitted; be prepared for rain and cold
mane institution, with spacious rooms, most Nampula and Tete. Air Corridor (%24-216333/93; during the climb. Guides can also be arranged in Quelimane through Zambézia Travels (p273),
with river views, and a usually empty rooftop Avenida 25 de Junho) stops in Quelimane on its run or in Gurúè through Pensão Monte Verde and Residencial Likungo (see p276).
restaurant. along the coast.
 276 N O R T H E R N M O Z A M B I Q U E • • N a m p u l a lonelyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N M O Z A M B I Q U E • • N a m p u l a 277

The road between Milange and Mocuba is

fairly well travelled, and finding a lift usually NORTHERN Sleeping
BUDGET
pansive grounds and a restaurant. It’s 5km
west of town – follow Avenida do Trabalho
isn’t a problem. To Gurúè, there’s sporadic
public transport along a rehabilitated road
to Molumbo, and from there to Lioma, from
MOZAMBIQUE Hotel Lúrio (%26-218631; Avenida da Independência;
s/d US$20/32, ste s/d US$48/60) A cavernous high-
rise several blocks south of the train station,
west from the train station, then right onto
the Ribáuè road for 1.5km.
Hotel Girassol (%26-216000; www.girassolhoteis.co.mz;
where you can get a chapa to Gurúè. Also Beautiful Lake Niassa and the cool Lichinga with threadbare rooms with fan and without Avenida Eduardo Mondlane; s/d from US$90/105; a) In the
see p298. Plateau to the west, the wild Niassa Reserve hot water. Centro Commercial de Nampula high-rise, this
in the centre and palm-fringed beaches, fas- Hotel Brasília (%26-217531; 26 Rua dos Continu- four-star place has Nampula’s best rooms, some
GURÚÈ cinating island archipelagos and magical Ilha adores; tw/d US$26/30; a) Near Shoprite, and a with views over the cathedral and town.
Gurúè sits amid the hills and tea plantations in de Moçambique along the coast combine to 20-minute hike from the bus and train depots;
one of the coolest, highest and rainiest parts of make the north one of Mozambique’s most has clean rooms and a restaurant. Eating
the country. There are some good walks in the alluring and adventurous destinations for Residencial A Marisqueira (%26-213611; cnr Café Atlântico (Centro Comercial de Nampula, Avenida Edu-
surrounding area, including a stroll through visitors. Avenidas Paulo Samuel Kankhomba & Eduardo Mondlane; ardo Mondlane; snacks & meals from US$1; h6am-9pm)
the jacarandas on the northern edge of town. s/d/tw US$36/41/53; a) A convenient, central Pregos (thin steak sandwiches), burgers, pizzas
BIM (Avenida da República) has an ATM, and NAMPULA location, decent no-frills rooms (ask for one and other light meals.
Telecomunicações de Moçambique (per min US$0.04) %26 of the newer ones) without hot water, and a Frango King (Avenida Eduardo Mondlane; half/whole
has internet access. Bustling Nampula is a convenient transport restaurant. chicken US$3/5; h7.30am-4am) Grilled chicken
Residencial Likungo (%82-442 0290; Avenida 25 de hub and the jumping-off point for visiting to go.
Setembro; d & tw from US$16) and Pensão Monte Verde Ilha de Moçambique (p278). While there are MIDRANGE & TOP END Café Carlos (%26-217960; Rua José Macamo; meals
(%24-910245; Avenida da República; s/d US$20/30) have few tourist attractions, the city’s good facilities Residencial Expresso (%26-218808/9; Avenida da Inde- from US$4; hclosed Sun) A small courtyard place
no-frills rooms, and the Monte Verde also and its main plaza, rimmed by flowering trees pendência; s/d from US$53/67; a) Six large, spotless just off Rua dos Continuadores; does seafood
has meals. Residencial Likungo can also be and the imposing white cathedral, make it an rooms with fridge and TV. grills and has a pizza oven.
booked through Salão de Cha Riviera (p274) amenable stop. Complexo Bamboo (%26-217838; www.teledata Copacabana (%26-218121; Rua Macombe; pizzas
in Quelimane. .mz/bamboo; Ribáué Rd; s/d/tw US$60/80/80; as) & meals US$4-8; hclosed Sun) Covered outdoor
For self-catering, try Aquíl Comercial (Avenida Information Good for families; has well-maintained rooms seating, fresh pasta, pizzas, and seafood and
da República) near BIM. As well as at the banks, there’s also an ATM (the twins are nicer than the doubles) in ex- meat grills.
at Shoprite (p278).
Getting There & Away BIM Expresso (cnr Avenidas da Independência & Fran- NAMPULA 0
0
300 m
0.2 miles
A chapa departs at 4.30am daily to Quelimane cisco Manyanga) ATM
(US$9.60, six to seven hours) from near the Centro Comercial de Nampula (Avenida Eduardo A To Cuamba; Malawi B C D
market. Otherwise there are several vehicles Mondlane) Has an ATM. INFORMATION Train Station

daily to Mocuba (US$5, 3½ to four hours), Farmácia Calêndula (Avenida Eduardo Mondlane; BIM Expresso...........................1 C1
Centro Comercial de Ave do Trabalho
22

from where you can continue to Quelimane. h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) One block up from 1 Nampula............................(see 9) To Chapas to Ribáuè & Mocuba
& Faina area (2.5km); Complexo
Governor's To Airport (3km); Monapo
House (125km); Ilha de Moçambique
For Nampula, there’s a daily vehicle to the museum. Farmácia Calêndula.................2 D2 Bamboo (5km)

l
che
Rua (180km); Nacala (195km)

a
IT Services................................3 C2 21

ang
de C

Ma
Alto Molócuè, with onward connections IT Services (Avenida Eduardo Mondlane; per hr US$2; uam 6

eda
Standard Bank.........................4 D2

ny
ba

ina
h7am-9pm) Internet; next to Frango King.

Mu

Ma
Telecomunicações de
from there. Alternatively, catch a chapa to
MOZAMBIQUE

MOZAMBIQUE
1 Ave

Jos
Moçambique.......................5 C2 da In

co
da
bro
dep
Mutuali and wait for the train to Nampula Standard Bank (Avenida Eduardo Mondlane) Near

Ave
end

ncis
Teledata................................(see 9)

Rua
gaia
ênc

em
Ave ia

Fra
(or Cuamba). Ask chapa drivers on the route the museum; has an ATM, and changes travellers

Set
Edu

Ma
ard 10 Rua Francisco
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Ave
oM 9

de
3

uel
about the train schedule. Cuamba can also be cheques (minimum US$35 commission plus purchase Clube CFM..............................6 D1 ond
lan
12 Matanga

25
am
Cathedral of Nossa e 15 Rua

ὈὈ
National Ethnography Ma
reached via a decent road, though there’s little

Ave
receipts).

eS
Senhora de Fátima com
Museum..............................7 D2 19 be 18

Filip
11 2 4

a
traffic. If you leave Gurúè early enough (no Telecomunicações de Moçambique (Rua Monomo-

mb
Rua 14
7

Rua
Mo

kho
SLEEPING nom Stadium 25
later than 5am), you can take any Mocuba or tapa) Telephone calls; near the cathedral. 2 ota 5 17
de Setembro

Kan
Hotel Brasília............................8 B3 pa Rua
Dan
Quelimane transport to Nampevo junction, Teledata (Centro Comercial de Nampula, Avenida Eduardo Hotel Girassol..........................9 C2 20

uel
iel N

mo
Rua Mosque 24
Hotel Lúrio............................10 D2 Cid apa

Sam

ca
get out there and wait for a passing bus on Mondlane; per hr US$1.60; h7.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, ade
de M
tim
a

Ma
Residencial A Marisqueira......11 C2 oça

aulo
mb res
to Nampula.

osé
7.30am-1pm, 3-8pm Sat) Internet access. Residencial Expresso..............12 D2 Rua da ique Market ado
tinu

eP

aJ
Moma
Con

o
13
To Milange, it’s fastest to go via Mocuba.

reir
os

Ru
Av
EATING 23
Ru ad

eve
Sights & Activities Café Atlântico........................(see 9)

eF
Café Carlos............................13 D2 SHOPPING
ALTO MOLÓCUÈ

3d
The National Ethnography Museum (Avenida Eduardo Copacabana.......................... 14 D2 Craft Market..............................18 D2

Rua
Rua
This agreeable town is a refuelling point Mondlane; admission free, donations welcome; h2-4.30pm Frango King...........................15 C2
Shoprite.................................16 B3
Dar
es -
Craft Shop.................................(see 7)

between Mocuba and Nampula. Tue-Thu & Sat, 2-6pm Fri, 10am-noon & 2-4pm Sun) has Praça da

Sala
Sporting Clube de Nampula...17 D2 Liberdade TRANSPORT

am
Air Corridor............................... 19 D2
Pensão Santo António (d US$16) on the main a collection on local culture (English and 3

Ave Sa hel
Ma Rua Grupo Mecula Buses...................20 B2
guig
square has clean doubles and serves food Portuguese explanations).

Mac
uan 16 LAM...........................................21 C1
a

mora
Padaria Nampula Transport
(meals from US$3). Several vehicles daily There are swimming pools at Clube CFM (Rua
Ru
8 Stand.....................................22 D1

ad
go to/from Nampula (US$4, 3½ hours) and 3 de Fevereiro; admission US$2) and Complexo Bamboo To Muahvire Bairro Serviço Aéreo Regional..............23 C2
eT
(1.5km); Transport
Taxi Rank...................................24 C2
ete
Mocuba (US$4, four hours). (admission US$3); see opposite. to Angoche (1.5km)
 278 N O R T H E R N M O Z A M B I Q U E • • A n g o c h e lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N M O Z A M B I Q U E • • I l h a d e M o ç a m b i q u e 279

Sporting Clube de Nampula (Avenida Eduardo vire bairro, along the extension of Avenida with ties to Madagascar, Persia, Arabia and East Africa, Goa, Macau and elsewhere have
Mondlane; meals US$4-8; h8am-10pm) Next to the das FPLM. elsewhere – dates back well before that. all contributed to the ethnic mix on the
museum, with chicken and fish grills and Chapas to Ribáuè, Mocuba (US$11, eight Vasco da Gama landed here in 1498, and island. Today this heterogeneity continues
fejoada (traditional Brazilian bean and saus- hours) and Cuamba leave from ‘Faina’, about in 1507 a Portuguese settlement was estab- to be one of Ilha de Moçambique’s most
age dish). 2.5km west of the train station along Avenida lished on the island. Unlike Sofala to the marked characteristics, although Muslim
Self-caterers can try Shoprite (Rua dos Continu- do Trabalho near the Ribáuè road junction. south, where the Portuguese established a influence, together with local Makua culture,
adores; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-3pm Sun). settlement at about the same time, Ilha de now dominates.
TRAIN Moçambique prospered as both a trading
Shopping A six-times weekly passenger train connects station and a naval base. In the late 16th Information
There’s a Sunday morning craft market (hdawn- Nampula and Cuamba; see p283. century, the sprawling fort of São Sebastião BIM (Avenida Amilcar Cabral) Has an ATM, and changes
dusk) in the stadium field downhill from Copa- was constructed. The island soon became cash US dollars, euro and rand.
cabana (best from about 7am), and a craft shop Getting Around the capital of Portuguese East Africa – Telecomunicações de Moçambique (per min
behind the museum with Makonde carvings The main taxi rank (Moti Taxi; %82-352 0970; Avenida a status that it held until the end of the 19th US$0.04; h7.30am-8pm) Near the tourist information
and clay pots. Paulo Samuel Kankhomba) is near the market. For century when Lourenço Marques (now office; internet access and international calls.

ὈὈ
Ὀ
car rentals, try Imperial (%26-216312, 82-300 5170; Maputo) moved into the spotlight. Tourist information office (%26-610081; h9am-
Getting There & Away imperial.npl@teledata.mz; airport). Over the years various small waves of noon & 2-5pm, in theory) Next to the museum, with island
AIR immigration from locations as diverse as info, guides and accommodation listings.
LAM (%26-213322, 26-212801; Avenida Francisco Man- ANGOCHE
yanga; h7.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-5.30pm Mon-Fri) flies to %26 ILHA DE MOÇAMBIQUE (MOZAMBIQUE ISLAND) 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
Maputo (daily), Beira, Lichinga, Quelimane, Angoche, an old Muslim trading centre dat-
A B C D

ὈὈ
Ὀ
Tete and Pemba (all several times weekly). ing from at least the 15th century, was one of
Air Corridor (%26-214444, 26-213333; aircorridor@ the earliest settlements in Mozambique, an 0 100 m
0 100 yd
teledata.mz; cnr Avenida Eduardo Mondlane & Rua 3 de Fev- important gold- and ivory-trading post and, dor
es Beach
inua 10 5
ereiro) stops in Nampula on its daily flight up in the 18th century, one of the major centres 1 sC ont Mossuril
2 9
Av e do 3 Bay
and down the coast. along the northern coast. Today, little re- 12
os
Ave ddores
ua
Serviço Aéreo Regional (SAR; %26-212401; sargaw@ mains, but there’s the good Praia Nova beach See Enlargement Cotin
7 Beach
23 Stone 16
teledata.mz; Rua Cidade de Moçambique), opposite the about 7km north of town, and the Primeiras

es
21

ὈὈ
Town

nt
ate
17
market, flies twice weekly between Nampula and Segundas Islands (soon to be Mozam- Ave

mb
da República

Co
15
and Cuamba (US$72 one way). bique’s newest protected area) offshore. Ave da
República
Rua dos
Combatentes Port Stone do
s

The airport is 4km northeast of town (US$4 For sleeping, try the basic Pensão Mafamede Town Rua

in a taxi). (r US$4) or the much nicer Inas Casa de Hospedes Camões

Statue
(%26-720232; r US$52; a). Restaurante O Pescador 13
1
2 ral
BUS & CHAPA (Avenida Liberdade; meals from US$2) has meals. do
res
rC
ab Market
ha lca
Grupo Mecula buses go daily to Nacala (US$4, Chapas go daily to/from Nampula 11

is
al

i
Am
22

ró
b
Tra

He
two to three hours), Pemba (US$7, seven (US$4.80, three hours). Dhows to the islands 14 es

e
nt

Av
dos

os
24 te Complexo Índico

ed
hours), Quelimane (US$14, 11 hours), Mon- can be arranged at the fish market. ba
MOZAMBIQUE

MOZAMBIQUE
Rua
18

Av
o m
Hospital 20 sC INDIAN OCEAN
tepuez (US$7, eight hours) and Mueda (US$12, 25 do

a
ILHA DE MOÇAMBIQUE 8

Ru
13 hours). All depart at 5am except the Nacala (Mozambique Channel)
Mosque
bus (1pm) from the Grupo Mecula garage on %26 19 Igreja da

de
Rua da Moma, off Avenida 25 de Setembro. Ilha de Moçambique (Mozambique Island), Saúde

da
Tr

rie
av
es Makuti

da
To Ilha de Moçambique (US$3.60, three to about 3km off the mainland, is a Unesco sa

oli
do Town SLEEPING

aS
3 sF
four hours), chapas depart between 5am and World Heritage Site and one of Mozam- or

ad
no INFORMATION Casa Branca.............................13 A2
s
Ru

o
BIM..............................................1 B2 Casa de Dona Kero..................14 B2
11am from the Padaria Nampula transport bique’s most fascinating destinations. In the

h
un
Telecomunicações de Casa de Yasmin.......................15 C2

eJ
stand along Avenida do Trabalho east of the staid Stone Town, quiet, cobbled streets lead Moçambique............................2 A1 Hotel Omuhi'piti......................16 D1

5d
Tourist Information Office............3 A1 Mooxeleliya.............................17 A1

e2
train station. Look for one that’s going direct – onto graceful praças rimmed by once-grand
Av
O Escondidinho........................18 B2
many go only to Monapo, where you’ll need to churches and stately colonial buildings. In the To Casuarina Camping (3km);
Lumbo (4km); Airstrip (6km);
Fishing Port SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Patio dos Quintalinhos.............19 A3
BIM Bank...................................(see 1) Residencial Amy.......................20 B2
wait for another vehicle. The best connections adjoining Makuti Town, narrow alleyways Mossuril (50km); Monapo;
Nampula-Nacala Road (55km); Cemetery.....................................4 A4
6
are on one of the ‘tanzaniano’ chapas, which de- echo with the sounds of playing children and Chocas (60km) Chapel of Nossa Senhora de EATING
Baluarte....................................5 D1 Café-Bar Âncora.......................21 A1
part Nampula between around 7am and 10am, squawking chickens, while fishermen sit on Brid
Main ge to Church of Santo António..............6 B4 O Escondidinho.....................(see 18)

὆὆
land
depending on how early they arrive from Ilha. the sand repairing their nets. Church of the Misericórdia...........7 A1 O Paladar.................................22 B2
4 Colonial Administration Offices....8 B3 Relíquias...................................23 A1
The Padaria Nampula transport stand is also

὆὆
26 Dugong Dive Centre....................9 D1 Shipping Container Shop..........24 B2
the place to find chapas to Mossuril, Namapa, History Cemetery
Fort of São Sebastião..................10 D1

὆὆
Hindu temple.............................11 B2 TRANSPORT
and other points north and east. As early as the 15th century Ilha de Moçam- 4 Maritime Museum...................(see 12) Fish Market & Dhows to
Museum of Sacred Art...............(see 7) Cabaceira Pequena...............25 A2
Transport to Angoche (US$4.80, three bique was an important boat-building centre, Palace & Chapel of São Paulo.....12 A1 Transport Stand....................... 26 A4
hours) departs from about 5am from Muah- and its history as a trading settlement –
 280 N O R T H E R N M O Z A M B I Q U E • • I l h a d e M o ç a m b i q u e Book accommodation online
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Sights side overlooking the sea near the Camões minibuses, departing daily between 3am and
PALACE & CHAPEL OF SÃO PAULO MUSIRO statue, with three simple, bright and spotless 5am. Go the day before to the minibus stop
This imposing edifice (Palácio de São Paulo; %26- On Ilha de Moçambique and along the rooms – one with bathroom – and a kitchen. in Lumbo and arrange with the driver to be
610081; adult/child US$4/1; h9am-4pm) – the former northern coast, you’ll often see women Rates include breakfast. picked up at your hotel, or ask your hotel to
governor’s residence and now a museum – with their faces painted white. The paste O Escondidinho (%26-610078; ilhatur@itservices get a message to the driver. After about 6am,
dates from 1610 and is the island’s historical is known as musiro, and is used as a facial .co.mz; Avenida dos Heróis; s/d from US$36/52; s) An the only option is open pick-up trucks to
showpiece. The renovated interior gives a mask to beautify the skin, and sometimes atmospheric place with high-ceilinged rooms, Monapo (US$1.20, one hour), where you can
remarkable glimpse into what upper-class life as a medicinal treatment (though the medi- some with bathroom, and all with nets and get transport on to Nampula (US$2.20, two
must have been like during the island’s 18th- cinal paste usually has a yellow tinge). ceiling fans, plus a garden courtyard and the to three hours) or Nacala (US$2, one hour).
century heyday. In addition to a collection island’s best restaurant (below). It’s near the Once in Nampula, there are daily buses north
of knick-knacks from Portugal, Arabia, India public gardens. to Pemba and south to Quelimane, though
and China, there are pieces of original fur- Sleeping Hotel Omuhi’piti (%26-610101; h.omuhipiti@teledata both leave early so you’ll need to overnight in
niture, including an important collection of BUDGET .mz; s/d from US$60/72; a) At the island’s northern Nampula. To head direct to Pemba, take the
heavily ornamented Indo-Portuguese pieces. Casuarina Camping (lenavie@hotmail.com; camping per tip, this three-star establishment has quiet, 4am tanzaniano as far as Namialo, where –
In the chapel, don’t miss the altar and the person US$3, r per person US$20) On the mainland op- modern rooms with sea views. There is also with luck – you can connect with the Mecula
pulpit, which was made in the 17th century posite Ilha de Moçambique, and a two-minute a restaurant. bus from Nampula, which passes Namialo
by Chinese artists in Goa. On the ground walk from the bridge. On offer: camping on about 6am.
floor is the small Maritime Museum (Museu a small beach, simple bungalow-style rooms, Eating Chapas to Lumbo cost US$0.20. Wide
da Marinha), and behind the palace are the ablution blocks with bucket-style showers, O Paladar (meals from US$3; hlunch & dinner) At the vehicles won’t pass over the bridge, and
Church of the Misericórdia and the Museum of and meals. Entry is US$4 for vehicles and day eastern corner of the old market, unmarked, maximum weight is 1.5 tonnes. There’s a
Sacred Art (Museu de Arte Sacra; closed at the visitors pay US$0.40. and the place to go for local cuisine. Stop by in US$0.40 per vehicle toll payable on arrival
time of writing), with religious ornaments, Otherwise, the cheapest options are in local the morning and place your order with Dona on the island.
paintings and carvings. The ticket price in- homes, most with small, no-frills rooms in the Maria for lunch or dinner.
cludes entry to all three museums. family quarters. Some recommendations: Relíquias (%26-610092; Avenida da República; meals CHOCAS
Casa de Dona Kero (%26-610034; Contracosta; US$4-10; h10am-10pm) Another good spot, %26
FORT OF SÃO SEBASTIÃO r US$10, d or tr US$14) Small rooms with fans but no nets, with seafood and meat dishes, plus prawn Diagonally opposite Ilha de Moçambique
Dominating the island’s northern end, this and continental breakfast. It’s opposite Complexo Índico. curry, matapa (cooked cassava leaves with across Mossuril Bay is the old Portuguese
is the oldest complete fort (admission free, guide Residencial Amy (Avenida dos Heróis; d/tr US$16/18) peanut sauce) and coconut rice. It’s near the holiday town of Chocas. Nearby are some
US$2; h8am-5pm) still standing in sub-Saharan Near the park, with several basic, dark rooms, most museum. attractive nearby beaches; Cabaceira Grande,
Africa. Immediately beyond the fort, on the without exterior windows. Breakfast costs US$2. O Escondidinho (%26-610078; meals US$6-8) The with a late 16th-century church and the ruins
island’s tip, is the Chapel of Nossa Senhora de Casa de Yasmin (%26-610073; Rua dos Combatentes; restaurant at this hotel (above) has some of of the mid-19th-century governor-general’s
Baluarte, built in 1522 and considered to be r US$20) At the island’s northern end, with a handful of Ilha’s best dining, featuring seafood with palace; and Cabaceira Pequena, a few kilometres
the oldest European building in the southern small rooms – some with bathroom – in an annex next French overtones. southeast, with an old Swahili-style mosque
hemisphere. to the family house. Air-con rooms are planned. There’s Café-Bar Áncora (%26-610006; brunch US$9; and the ruins of a cistern used as a watering
no food. h8am-11pm) Newly reopened, Café Áncora, spot by Portuguese sailors.
diagonally opposite the Church of the Mis-
MOZAMBIQUE

OTHER SIGHTS

MOZAMBIQUE
At the island’s southern end is the Church of MIDRANGE ericórdia, has delicious brunches (10am to Sleeping & Eating
Santo António, while in the Stone Town are Patio dos Quintalinhos (Casa de Gabriele; %26-610090; 2pm Sunday), with fresh yoghurt and juice, Verandas (camping per person US$2) Camping under
many interesting buildings, including the re- www.patiodosquintalinhos.com; Rua do Celeiro; s/d with shared muesli, waffles and more, plus a menu fea- simple thatched shelters on the beach at
stored bank (Avenida Amilcar Cabral) and the ornate bathroom US$20/25, d/q/ste US$30/35/35; p) Opposite turing sandwiches, seafood and homemade Cabaceira Pequena, several kilometres past
colonial administration offices. Nearby is a Hindu the unmissable green mosque, with creatively ice cream. Carushka. Bring along everything with you,
temple, and to the south is a cemetery with designed rooms around a small courtyard, For self-caterers, there’s a reasonably well- although more facilities are planned.
Christian, Muslim and Hindu graves. including a suite with a star view skylight and stocked shop in an old shipping container Carushka (%82-516 0173; ophavela@teledata.mz;
private rooftop balcony. Breakfast is included, next to the market. 4-/8-person bungalows US$32/64) Rustic, spotless bun-
Activities and staff can help with bicycle and vehicle galows set between the mangroves and one
Dugong Dive Centre (% 26-610027, 82-454 7810; rental, and excursions. Getting There & Away of the best stretches of beach. A restaurant is
caku@teledata.mz; Centro Náutico; h8am-5pm Tue-Sun), Mooxeleliya (%26-610076; iannika@teledata.mz; Ilha de Moçambique is joined by a 3.5km planned; for now bring food and drink, and
opposite Hotel Omuhi’piti, arranges div- d/f US$22/48) Under the same management as bridge to the mainland. Most chapas stop staff will prepare it. It’s about 2km south of
ing around nearby Goa and Sena Islands, Casa Branca, and equally good value, with about 1km before the bridge in Lumbo, where Chocas town, en route to Cabaceira Pequena.
plus overnight dhow safaris (September to large, high-ceilinged rooms upstairs and two you’ll need to get into a smaller pick-up to Get here by road (4WD) or on foot from
November). darker family-style rooms downstairs, all with cross over Mossuril Bay (due to vehicle weight Chocas town, or hire a boat from Ilha de
The island has several small beaches, bathroom and breakfast. It’s just down from restrictions on the bridge). Moçambique.
though if it’s beach you’re after, it’s better to the Church of the Misericórdia. Leaving Ilha, all transport departs from Complexo Turístico Namarralo (%26-660049;
head across Mossuril Bay to Chocas, or to the Casa Branca (%26-610076; flora204@hotmail.com; the bridge. The only direct cars to Nampula 2-/4-person bungalows US$40/80; a) Straightforward
beaches near Nacala. Rua dos Combatentes; r US$24) On the island’s eastern (US$3.60, three hours) are the tanzaniano stone bungalows located in a large, beachside
 282 N O R T H E R N M O Z A M B I Q U E • • N a c a l a Book accommodation online
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compound at the edge of Chocas town. Break- heading to Fernão Veloso a bit extra to take BUS & CHAPA adventure and time in the bush, it’s an ideal
fast is included, and there’s a restaurant. you to Bay Diving. Most transport leaves from Maçaniqueira destination, with scenic, rugged terrain and
Hotel Maiaia (%26-526842; inturhoteis@teledata market, at the southern edge of town, and the beautiful Lake Niassa coastline.
Getting There & Away .mz; Rua Principal; s/d from US$60/70; a) A centrally chapas also come to meet arriving trains. To Niassa’s capital is Lichinga, a low-key town
Chapas daily go between Chocas and Nam- located three-star place catering to business Nampula, there’s at least one vehicle daily, at about 1300m altitude with jacarandas, pine
pula, with the best being the tanzaniano travellers; has good rooms and a restaurant. though most people take the train. groves and an invigorating climate.
chapa departing Nampula between 10am To Gurúè, the best way is via train to Mu- Hotel Girassol (below) and Acord (Avenida Filipe
and noon, and departing Chocas about 4am Getting There & Away tuali, from where you can find vehicles for Magaia; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri) have internet access,
(US$4). Otherwise, take any transport be- Grupo Mecula buses to Nampula (US$4, 2½ the remainder of the journey. This generally and Banco Austral (Avenida Samora Machel) and BIM
tween Monapo and Ilha de Moçambique hours) and Pemba (US$7, seven hours) depart works best going from Cuamba to Gurúè, as (cnr Avenida Samora Machel & Rua Filipe Samuel Magaia)
to the signposted Mossuril junction 25km Nacala daily at 5am from the Mecula garage in waits can be long in the other direction. have ATMs.
southeast of Monapo. Sporadic chapas go the town centre, uphill from the large round- To Lichinga (US$12, six to eight hours),
from here to Mossuril (20km), and on to about near Mozstar. there are several cars daily. Sleeping & Eating
Chocas (12km further). There are also chapas each morning to To Malawi, there are daily vehicles from Ponto Final (%271-20912; Rua Filipe Samuel Magaia; r
From Chocas, it’s a 30-minute walk at low Nampula and Monapo (US$1.20, one hour), Cuamba both to Entre Lagos (US$3.50, four US$22, with fridge & TV US$27) At the northeastern
tide to Cabaceira Pequena, and from one hour departing from TDM, and from next to the BP hours) and to Mandimba (US$6, 3½ hours). edge of town, with reasonable, low-ceilinged
to 1½ hours to Cabaceira Grande. Dhows petrol station in Nacala-Alta. From Monapo, Once at Entre Lagos, you’ll need to walk across rooms and a bar.
depart every morning for Cabaceira Pequena there’s onward transport to Ilha de Moçam- the border, where there’s a weekly train on the Hotel Chiwindi (%271-20345; Avenida Julius Nyerere;
from the fish market near the green mosque bique and Namialo (the junction town for Malawi side to Liwonde. For more on these r with shared/private bathroom US$25/30) No-frills and
on Ilha de Moçambique (US$0.20). To return Pemba). routes, see p298. somewhat overpriced rooms near the bus
the same day, you’ll need to charter a boat To Fernão Veloso: take the turn-off for stand and market.
(about US$20 for a motorised dhow). Dugong the airport and military base at the Nacala TRAIN Pousada de Lichinga (%271-20176/7; Rua Filipe Sam-
Dive Centre (p280) organises Chocas excur- town entrance. After about 9km watch for The Cuamba–Nampula train (1st/2nd/econ- uel Magaia; s/d with shared bathroom US$30/34, s/d US$36/40)
sions, as do all of Ilha’s midrange hotels and the signposted Bay Diving turn-off opposite omy class US$20/10/4, 10 to 11 hours, some- A convenient central location, straightforward
the tourist office. the base, from where it’s another 1.5km. Cha- times much longer) departs in each direction rooms and a restaurant. Prices include conti-
pas to Fernão Veloso (US$0.20) depart from at 5am on alternate days. Currently departures nental breakfast.
NACALA the Nacala-Alta market near the Catholic from Cuamba are on Wednesday, Friday and Hotel Girassol Lichinga (%271-21280; www
%26 church, or you can catch them at the airport Sunday; there are no trains in either direction .girassolhoteis.co.mz; Rua Filipe Samuel Magaia; s/d US$85/92;
Nacala is northern Mozambique’s busiest turn-off. on Monday. First class has been temporarily ais) Hovering between three and four
port, and a gateway to diving and some at- discontinued, and 2nd class sometimes doesn’t stars, this is Lichinga’s most upmarket option,
tractive beaches, including Fernão Veloso, 10km CUAMBA run. If you’re travelling on a day when there’s with satellite TV and a restaurant.
from town. %271 3rd class only, try heading to the more com- O Chambo (%271-21354; meals from US$2.50) In
The main street runs from Nacala-Porto This lively rail and road junction, with its fortable dining car and ingratiating yourself the Feira Exposição Niassa (FEN) compound
(the port) to Nacala-Alta (the higher town). dusty streets, flowering trees and large uni- with staff – though we’ve heard from some next to the market; has great soups and local
There are ATMs at Banco Austral (cnr Rua Principal versity student population, is the economic travellers that they had to buy something every meals.
& Rua 8) in the town centre and at the BP pet- centre of Niassa province and a convenient hour or so for the privilege of sitting there. Well-stocked supermarkets in Lichinga
MOZAMBIQUE

MOZAMBIQUE
rol station in Nacala-Alta. Telecomunicações stopping point if you’re travelling to/from To transport your vehicle on the train include Translândia (Avenida Julius Nyerere), en route
de Moçambique (per min US$0.04; h7.30am-10pm), Malawi. BIM Expresso (Avenida Eduardo Mondlane) (about US$90), you’ll need to load it the night to the airport, and Comércio Geral (%271-20819;
diagonally opposite Hotel Maiaia, has inter- near the post office has an ATM, and there’s before and arrange a guard. During the jour- Avenida Samora Machel), which also has rooms (per
net access. internet access at Telecomunicações de Moçam- ney you can ride with the car. person US$20) to let.
bique (Avenida Eduardo Mondlane; per min US$0.04).
Sleeping & Eating For budget accommodation, try Namacha MANDIMBA Getting There & Away
Bay Diving (% 26-520017; www.fimdomundosafaris (s/d US$12/18), off Avenida Eduardo Mondlane The best place to stay in this border town with AIR
.com; Fernão Veloso; camping per person US$6, dm US$8, and just down from Hotel Vision 2000. Hotel Malawi is Pensão Massinga (r US$8-32), which has LAM (%271-20434, 271-20847; Rua da LAM), just off
d US$21.50, 2- to 4-person chalets US$31-41; s) This Vision 2000 (%271-62632; h-vision2000@teledata.mz; cnr clean rooms with fan, and meals. the airport road, operates four flights weekly
popular divers’ base on an escarpment over- Avenidas Eduardo Mondlane & 25 de Junho; r US$50-70; i), Vehicles go daily to Lichinga and Cuamba. to/from Maputo, going via Tete, Nampula
looking the beach at Fernão Veloso is where at the main intersection, is the best midrange For border information, see p298. and/or Beira.
almost everybody heads. It has rustic reed- choice.
and-thatch A-frame chalets, dorm beds, LICHINGA BUS & TRUCK
camping, a good restaurant, diving instruc- Getting There & Away %271 All forms of transport depart from beside
tion and dhow safaris. Breakfast is US$6 per AIR ‘Fim do mundo’ (‘the end of the world’) is how the market, with vehicles to most destin-
person. Follow directions to Fernão Veloso There are twice weekly flights to/from Nam- many Mozambicans describe Niassa – the ations leaving by around 6am. There are daily
(see Getting There & Away, right), and then pula on Serviço Aéreo Regional (sargaw@teledata least populated of Mozambique’s provinces – chapas to Cuamba (US$12, 6½ hours) via
follow the Bay Diving signs. Pick-ups can be .mz) for US$72 one way. Vision 2000 is the and as far as the rest of the country is con- Mandimba, to Metangula (US$5, 2½ hours)
arranged from Nacala town, or pay any chapa booking agent. cerned, it might as well be. Yet, if you’re after and to Meponda (US$2.50, 1½ hours).
 284 N O R T H E R N M O Z A M B I Q U E • • L a k e N i a s s a Book accommodation online
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LAKE NIASSA and the lake is crystal clear and safe for swim- Air charter is the main way to reach the Super Wimbi (Avenida Marginal, Wimbi Beach; per hr
The Mozambican side of beautiful Lake ming. The surrounding bush is full of birds, reserve. During the dry season, road access US$5) Internet.
Niassa (Lake Malawi) is much less developed and with luck you may even see an occasional (4WD) is possible with time and tenacity from Telecomunicações de Moçambique (cnr Avenidas
than the Malawian side, and sees a small but elephant or antelope. Staff will come to meet Lichinga, Cuamba and Pemba. Eduardo Mondlane & 25 de Setembro; per hr US$4,
steady stream of adventure travellers. The you in Cóbuè, and boat transfers on the lodge’s h7am-10pm) Internet and telephone calls.
main area for exploring is between Metangula Miss Nkwichi can be arranged from Cóbuè, MONTEPUEZ
and Cóbuè. Likoma Island, Mbueca village or Metangula. %272 Activities
Advance bookings are essential. Montepuez, a busy district capital, is home to CI Divers (%272-20102; www.cidivers.com; Complexo Náuti
Metangula Hotel Inyati Yoyela (White Buffalo; r US$12) and Mira Aurora (%84-781 3820; www.auroramozambique.com; dm/ lus, Avenida Marginal, Wimbi Beach) has PADI instruc-
Bustling Metangula is the largest Mozambican Lago (r about US$10; p), just behind, have good s/d/tr with full board & cultural activities US$50/75/120/165), tion and equipment rental, plus windsurfing
town along the lakeshore, with little for visi- budget lodging. which offers the chance to take botanical and other water sports equipment rental and
tors. However, about 8km north is Chuwanga, walks, watch mapiko dancing and otherwise boat charters.
an attractive beach and a popular getaway. GETTING THERE & AWAY immerse yourself in local life while staying in Kaskazini (left) arranges day trips around
Chuwanga Beach Hotel (Complexo Cetuka; Catawala’s; There’s an airstrip in Cóbuè for charter a refurbished colonial-era house with com- Pemba Bay (from about US$40 per person
Chuwanga Beach; camping per person US$5, s/d bungalows flights. fortable rooms and good meals. per half day) and overnight dhow safaris to
US$15/20) is where everyone stays. It has camp- The weekly Ilala ferry connects Cóbuè Several chapas daily go between Pemba and the Quirimbas islands (from about US$150
ing, simple bungalows on the sand, meals with Metangula and Likoma Island; see p298. Montepuez (US$4, three hours). For Aurora, per boat).
and a grill. Otherwise, a few slow boats sail weekly be- ask to be dropped at the turnoff about 2km
Daily chapas connect Metangula and tween Cóbuè and Metangula; allow two days east of town, from where it’s about 600m Sleeping
Lichinga (US$5, 2½ hours), most departing for the journey. further on foot. BUDGET
early. Departures in Metangula are from the The road between Cóbuè and Metangula Nacole Jardim (%82-661 1530; info@kaskazini.com;
fork in the road just up from the market. (75km) is rough (4WD) but improving, and PEMBA camping per person US$5, chalet per person US$15) Tran-
There are occasional chapas between Metan- there’s secure parking at Mira Lago in Cóbuè %272 quil, and a good camping ground for fami-
gula and Chuwanga, and hitching is easy at and at Mchenga Wede in Mbueca. Walking Pemba has a beautiful setting on a peninsula lies. There’s also a self-catering chalet and a
weekends. takes about two days, going along the river jutting into the enormous, stunning Pemba beachside bar and braai area, and botanical
For information on the Ilala ferry between via the villages of Ngoo and Chia. Guides and Bay. It was established in 1904 as administrative walking tours can be arranged. It’s about 10
Metangula and Cóbuè, see p298. Local boats porters can be arranged at Nkwichi Lodge or headquarters for the Niassa Company. Today, minutes from town (US$6 in a taxi), behind
leave Metangula from the small dhow port Mchenga Wede. Allow four to five hours on it’s the capital of Cabo Delgado province, the the airport on the bay, and about 5km off the
below the Catholic church. foot between Cóbuè and Mchenga Wede. main town in Mozambique’s far north, and main road along an unpaved track. Bookings
gateway to the Quirimbas Archipelago. The can also be made through Pemba Dive, on
Cóbuè NIASSA RESERVE town is a relaxing, enjoyable stop in its own Wimbi Beach.
Tiny Cóbuè is the gateway into Mozambique About 160km northeast of Lichinga on the right, with a long beach and a laid-back pace. Russell’s Place (Cashew Camp; %82-686 2730; www
if you’re travelling from Malawi via Likoma Tanzanian border is the 42,000-sq-km Niassa .pembamagic.com; Wimbi Beach; camping per person US$6,
Island, 10km offshore. Reserve (Reserva do Niassa; www.niassa.com; entry per Orientation dm US$4, 2-/3-person chalets US$35) Around 3.5km
person/vehicle for 3 days US$5/10), a vast tract of wil- At the peninsula’s southwestern tip is the low- beyond Complexo Náutilus along the beach-
derness with the largest wildlife populations lying baixa area around the port and old town. road extension, this enclosed camping ground
MOZAMBIQUE

SLEEPING & EATING

MOZAMBIQUE
Mchenga Wede (per person US$5) About 5km south in Mozambique. It’s particularly notable for East of here and up the hill is the town centre, also has dorm beds, a few A-frame chalets, a
of Nkwichi Lodge near Mbueca village. It has its elephants and buffaloes; there are also with a few hotels and restaurants. About 5km bar and pizzas, and is a good place for lining
camping, basic bungalows and pricey meals populations of duikers, zebras, elands, leop- further east is Wimbi (Wimbe) Beach, the up lifts or getting the scoop on local road
(around US$7 to US$10), plus bush walks ards and more. Vehicle safaris are possible main hub of tourist activity and the favoured conditions.
and canoe trips. It’s run by some enterpris- using the limited network of bush tracks, and destination of most visitors. Pensão Baía (cnr Rua 1 de Maio & Rua Base Beira;
ing staff from Nkwichi Lodge, and bookings walking safaris can be arranged at reserve d with shared bathroom & fan US$16, with private bathroom &
can be made through Nkwichi or you can headquarters. Information air-con US$20; a) Spartan budget rooms in the
just show up. At reserve headquarters (rdn01@bushmail.net) Complexo Náutilus (p287) has an ATM. town centre.
Nkwichi Lodge (www.mandawilderness.org; s/d with there are twin-bedded chalets (per chalet US$30) BIM Expresso (Avenida Eduardo Mondlane) ATM.
full board US$240/380) This wonderful place about with bathroom, and three double tents (per tent Kaskazini (%272-20371, 82-309 6990; www.kaskazini MIDRANGE
15km south of Cóbuè on the lakeshore is part US$20) sharing hot and cold-water ablutions, .com; Pemba Beach Hotel, Avenida Marginal, Wimbi Beach; Complexo Turístico Caraçol (%272-20147; sulemane@
of the Manda Wilderness Area – a privately plus a communal kitchen and dining area. h8am-3pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-noon Sat) A good first teledata.mz; Avenida Marginal; s/d US$40/50, 1-/2-room apt
initiated conservation area that also promotes Bush camping (per person US$5) is also permitted; stop, with lots of info on Pemba and the surrounding area, US$75/85; a) On the inland side of the beach
community development and responsible bring all supplies. plus flight and accommodation bookings. road just beyond Complexo Náutilus, with
tourism. It offers the chance to explore an area Lugenda Bush Camp (www.raniresorts.com), on the PrestaServe/Skylink (Avenida 25 de Setembro; per hr straightforward rooms and small apartments,
of Southern Africa that’s about as remote as it Lugenda River near the eastern edge of the US$3; a) Internet. some with kitchenettes.
gets while enjoying all the comforts. Accom- park, is set to open soon, primarily offering Standard Bank (Avenida Eduardo Mondlane) ATM; also Peter’s Place (%272-20102; cidivers@teledata.mz;
modation is in hand-crafted chalets that each fly-in safaris based at the Pemba Beach Hotel changes travellers cheques (minimum US$35 commission Avenida Marginal; d US$45) Along the extension of
look out onto their own little white-sand cove, (p287). per transaction, original purchase receipts required). the Wimbi beach road with one small, airy
 286 N O R T H E R N M O Z A M B I Q U E • • Pe m b a lonelyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N M O Z A M B I Q U E • • Pe m b a 287

11
room in shaded grounds and more rooms WIMBI BEACH
0.5 miles

14
D2

D2
C4
E2
F2

E3
F2
F2
E3

10
Super Wimbe (Avenida Marginal; meals US$2-3; hfrom
800 m

planned. There’s no food.

200 m
3 etemb de

0.1 miles
Clube Naval...........................4
Complexo Náutilus.................5
Complexo Turístico Caraçol....6
Nacole Jardim........................7
Pemba Beach Hotel...............8
Pensão Baía............................9
Peter's Place.........................10
Residencial Regio Emilia........11
Wimbi Sun Residencial.........12

ro
25
Wimbi Sun Residencial (%82-318 1300; Avenida Mar- 7am) Burgers and omelettes, just past Com-

27
26
Ave
19
ginal; r US$45-60; a) Clean, modern rooms (ask plexo Caraçol.

S
To Simples Aldeia Lda (1km);
Russell's Place (Cashew Camp) (2km)

16
lane
Aquila Romana (%272-21972; Avenida Marginal,

Wimbi
ond
for a ‘suite’) diagonally opposite Complexo

Market
F

2
oM
ard

Wimbi
Beach
du

6
ve E A Náutilus. Breakfast costs US$6. Wimbi Beach; pizzas & meals US$4-10; h6.30-10pm Tue-

25
1

a
Residencial Regio Emilia (%272-21297; c.forna@ Fri, 9am-10pm Sat & Sun) Pizza, homemade pasta

Ndu omas
Pemba 17

18

uan
Ma Ru a d a
SLEEPING

0
0
da

guig
teledata.mz; Avenida Marginal; r from US$50; a) Next and delicious Italian food served in a tranquil,

Th
Dive

Rua
door to Peter’s Place, and good value, with beachside setting.

Rua 1 de Maio
self-catering chalets in green, quiet grounds. Clube Naval (%272-21770; Avenida Marginal, Wimbi
0
0

Kaskazini..........................................(see 8)

CI Divers..........................................(see 5)
Super Wimbe.................................(see 19)
Telecomunicações de Moçambique..(see 26)
BIM Expresso......................................1 F4

PrestaServe/Skylink.............................2 F3
Standard Bank....................................3 F4

9
Continental/full breakfast costs US$5/10. Beach; meals US$5-11; h10am-midnight) Next door

To Mareja (75km)
Beira
Rua Base

Moçambique
Rua Base de
Provincial
Complexo Náutilus (%272-21520; nautiluscas@ to Pemba Beach Hotel, this beachside place

Hospital
12
teledata.mz; Avenida Marginal; 2-/4-person bungalows from has salads, seafood, chicken, ribs, pizzas and
Rua 1 de Agosto US$120/140; as) A good beachside setting, desserts.
E

l
though marred by indifferent management. Pemba Dolphin (Avenida Marginal; seafood grills US$5-
ina
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

arg

Accommodation is in closely spaced bunga- 15) Directly on the beach, with a beach bar

Jingone
eM

Alto-
Av
INFORMATION

lows with TV and mini-fridge (ask for one of ambience and seafood grills.
the newer ones), and there’s a restaurant. Pemba Beach Hotel (%272-21770; Avenida Marginal,
4

Wimbi Beach; breakfast/dinner buffet US$14/18) Breakfast

Airport
8

23
TOP END and dinner buffets, plus à la carte dining.
Pemba Beach Hotel (% 272-21770; www.pemba
beachresort.com; Avenida Marginal; s/d from US$160/220; Shopping
Cariacó

ais ) This five-star establishment is The excellent Artes Maconde (%/fax 272-21099,
D

Pemba’s best, with expansive grounds over- 272-21100; ceebee@teledata.mz; Town Centre Avenida 25 de
looking the water, a good restaurant (right) Setembro; Wimbi Beach Pemba Beach Hotel) has a wide
and a luxury yacht for charters around the range of quality carvings and other crafts.
Quirimbas Archipelago. Package deals from
Johannesburg are available, also including Getting There & Away

7
mbro

sister lodges in the Quirimbas and Bazaruto

ai

AIR
Ch

Ave 25 de Sete
o

Archipelagos. LAM (%272-21251; Avenida Eduardo Mondlane; h7am-

ed
Av

Clube Naval (Avenida Marginal, Wimbi Beach; 4–6-person 5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat) flies daily to/from
apt US$312) Next door to Pemba Beach Hotel Maputo (via Nampula and/or Beira), and
20
C

and under the same management are upmar- three times weekly to/from Dar es Salaam
ket self-catering apartments accommodating (Tanzania).
24

Cemetery

up to four adults and two children. Air Corridor (%272-20799, 272-28012; Avenida
Igreja Reino de Deus..............(see 18)
Embondeiro Transport Stand....23 D3
Air Corridor.............................21 C2

Quirimbas............................22 A2

Grupo Mecula Buses................24 C2

LAM.........................................25 F4
Mcel Transport Stand...............26 F4
Taxi Rank.................................27 F3
὆὆
὆὆
21

25 de Setembro), diagonally opposite Osman’s

MOZAMBIQUE

MOZAMBIQUE
15

Governor's Mansion

Eating supermarket, has daily flights down the coast,

Dhows to Archipelago das

TOWN CENTRE stopping at Nampula, Beira, Quelimane and

TVM Station

Restaurante-Bar Samar (%272-20415; Avenida 25 de Maputo.

Setembro; light meals US$1-3, meals US$3-8; h9am-10pm For charters to the Quirimbas Archipelago
t
Natite

ne
me

ndla do
Sun-Fri) In the parking lot of the Igreja Reino de or Lake Niassa, contact Kaskazini (see Infor-
TRANSPORT

Mo Eduar
rp
III

ca
B

Ave
No

Deus, with good-value and tasty Portuguese mation, p285).

Es
See Enlargement

Rua

cuisine served on a shaded porch.

lho
Rua Base
Beira
Pastelaria Flôr d’Avenida (%272-20514; Avenida BUS & CHAPA
e Ju
Grupo Mecula (%272-20821) has daily buses to
KK Supermarket...................(see 16)

Pemba Beach Hotel................(see 8)

Eduardo Mondlane; meals from US$3) A wide selection

Clube Naval...........................(see 4)

Artes Maconde Branch..........(see 8)

556........................................13 A2

Osman's................................15 C2

Artes Maconde Main Shop....20 C2

Aquila Romana.......................14 F2

Pastelaria Flôr d'Avenida........16 F4

Pemba Dolphin.......................17 F2
Restaurante-Bar Samar...........18 F3
Super Wimbe.........................19 F2

1d
al Ave
rgin
Ma o e
Julh 16 d of standard dishes and pastries served at tables Nampula (US$7, seven hours), Nacala (US$7,
e

Rua Banco de
Moçambique

Ave
Av

on a small streetside plaza. seven hours), Moçimboa da Praia (US$6.50,

Hall
City
nt
me

556 (%272-21487; Rua No 1; meals US$6-14; h10am- 7½ hours) and Mueda (US$6.50, eight hours).
13
arp

Comércio

Pemba Bay
Rua do
INDIAN

OCEAN

11pm Mon-Sat) On the hill overlooking the port For Ilha de Moçambique, take the Nacala bus
Esc

Paquitequete

and bay, with South African meats, plus to Monapo, where you’ll need to get out and
22

Market
A

SHOPPING

chicken grills, pizzas and pub food. catch a chapa for the remaining 55km. All de-
PEMBA

EATING

For self-catering, try Osman’s (Avenida 25 de partures are at 4.45am from the Grupo Mecula
Paquitequete

Port
Mosque

Setembro), about 1.5km east of the main junc- office, just off the main road and about 1.5km
tion, or KK Supermarket (Avenida Eduardo Mondlane), from the centre on a small side street behind
2

3
1

next to Pastelaria Flôr d’Avenida. Osman’s supermarket. All buses also pass
 288 N O R T H E R N M O Z A M B I Q U E • • A r o u n d Pe m b a lonelyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N M O Z A M B I Q U E • • M a c o m i a 289

quoise waters alternate with green, vegetated Many of the southern islands, including Ibo BOAT
CABO DELGADO islands fringed in part by mangroves. Dense and Matemo, are part of the Quirimbas National Under your own steam, you’ll need to go first
Cabo Delgado province was the birthplace mangrove forests also link some of the islands Park (Parque Nacional das Quirimbas; adult/child US$8/2), to Quissanga, on the coast north of Pemba. A
of Mozambique’s independence struggle, to each other, and with the coast. Only skilled which also includes large inland areas on the direct chapa departs Pemba from the fish mar-
which began here and was supported from dhow captains are able to navigate among fringing coastline. Fees are collected by hotels ket behind the mosque in Paquitequete bairro
bases in nearby Tanzania. At the height of the intricate channels that were cut during within the park area. (US$4, four to five hours) at about 4am daily.
the war, it could take up to a month to Portuguese times. In addition to its pristine natural beauty, From Quissanga, most vehicles continue on
travel – convoy-style, and moving only at The Quirimbas Archipelago consists of the archipelago is known for its diving, which to Tandanhangue village (US$4 from Pemba),
night – between Pemba and Moçimboa da about two dozen islands and islets strewn is especially good around Quilaluia, Vamizi which is the departure point for dhows to Ibo
Praia, which makes the seven-hour bus ride among the turquoise waters along the 400km and Rongui. (locals pay US$0.80) and Quirimba islands.
today seem like a stroll in the park. stretch of coastline between Pemba and the For drivers (4WD), there’s secure parking
Rovuma River. Some are waterless and unin- Sleeping & Eating at Casa de Isufo (signposted 2km before the
habited, while others have histories as long as Almost all accommodation in the archi- Tandanhangue port) for US$1.50 per day.
by the Mcel office (corner of Avenidas 25 de the archipelago itself. pelago is moving upmarket, and everything – Dhows leave Tandanhangue only at high
Setembro and Eduardo Mondlane) before Ibo, the best known of the islands, was al- especially on Ibo – was in flux as this book was tide, and take from one to six hours to Ibo.
departing town by around 5am. ready an important Muslim trading post when researched, so ask around in Pemba before There’s no accommodation, but if you get
Otherwise, try your luck with other trans- the Portuguese arrived in the 15th century, heading over. stuck waiting, Isufo (at Casa de Isufo) can
port at Mcel, or head to Embondeiro transport and by the late 18th century, it had become Karibuni (Casa de Janine; ibo_pemba@yahoo.fr; Ibo help you find a meal, and has an enclosed area
stand, 3km from the centre (US$2 in a taxi). a major slave-trading port and the second- Island; camping per person US$3, r with shared bathroom where you can sleep on the ground.
Alternatively, ‘tanzaniano’ chapas depart in most important town in Mozambique after US$24) Cheap and friendly, with no-frills Alternatively, try and charter a local motor
all directions from Igreja Reino de Deus from Ilha de Moçambique. Today, it’s a fascinat- rooms, bucket baths, and meals on order. It’s boat (about US$40 to Ibo). For those with
4am, with high speeds and prices marginally ing, almost surreal place with wide streets northwest of the dhow port. larger budgets, it’s easy to arrange speedboat
cheaper than those of the Mecula buses. lined with dilapidated villas and crumbling, Ibo Island Lodge (%in South Africa 021-702 charters from Pemba direct to the islands;
moss-covered buildings. At its northern end 0643; www.iboisland.com; Ibo Island; s/d with half-board contact the lodges, or Kaskazini (p285).
Getting Around is the star-shaped fort of São João dating US$360/560) An atmospheric 12-room boutique
Pemba’s taxi rank (%272-20187; Avenida Eduardo from the late 18th century, known now for luxury hotel that was about to open as this MACOMIA
Mondlane) is just down from Mcel (town to its silversmiths. book went to press. It’s in three restored man- Macomia is the turn-off point for the beach at
Wimbi beach costs from US$2). Other islands include Quirimba, with ex- sions overlooking the water near the dhow Pangane. Pensão Kwetu-Kumo (r US$9), west of the
Moti Rent-A-Car (%272-21687; motimoz@teledata tensive coconut plantations, and Matemo and port, and operated by Ocean Island Safaris main road, has basic rooms. Daily chapas go
.mz) is at the airport. Quisiva, both sites of large Portuguese plan- (p303); check with them for an update. to Mucojo, sometimes continuing on to Pan-
Sporadic chapas run to/from Wimbi Beach, tation houses. Tiny Rolas, between Matemo Quilálea (%272-21808; www.quilalea.com; Quilaluia gane. About 40km north of Macomia is Chai,
and it’s easy to find lifts. Island and Pangane, is uninhabited except for Island; all-inclusive full board per person from US$375) Just where Frelimo’s military campaign against
some seasonal fishing settlements. Quilaluia, offshore, this luxurious private resort, with colonial rule began in 1964 with an attack on
AROUND PEMBA formerly also a seasonal fishing base, is now nine chalets facing the sea and diving and a Portuguese base.
In the area around Pemba are several new a protected marine sanctuary. Vamizi, Rongui snorkelling, is the place to come for a secluded
camps and lodges that offer visitors a chance and Macaloé Islands are part of the Maluane tropical island retreat. PANGANE
MOZAMBIQUE

MOZAMBIQUE
to experience Cabo Delgado’s wild, untamed Project (www.maluane.com) – a privately funded Vamizi Island Lodge (www.vamizi.com; Vamizi Island; r This village sits on a long, beautiful palm-
bush, learn about local life, and perhaps see community-based conservation project that per person with full-board & activities from US$485) A beau- fringed beach 9km north of Mucojo, and
an elephant or two. One to try is Mareja (www will ultimately also encompass an adjoin- tiful 24-bed luxury getaway on a long arc of 50km off the main north–south road.
.mareja.com; camping per person US$10, r with shared/private ing coastal strip, and an inland area where white sand, and the first of the Maluane lodges Hashim’s Camp (camping per person US$6, bungalows
bathroom US$20/30), an impressive community- wildlife safari–tropical island combinations to open. Activities include diving, snorkelling, US$10) is a laid-back camp on the point that’s
focused project where you can experience will be possible. walking and birding. run by the helpful Hashim, with reed bun-
local life in the bush, including traditional Medjumbe Island Resort (%in South Africa 011-465 galows on the sand, and grilled fish meals.
dancing, wildlife watching and walks. Luxury 6904; www.medjumberesort.com; Medjumbe Island; s/d with Alternatively, try Pensão Suki (r US$12), a no-frills
fly-camps are planned, but for now, there’s COCONUT CRABS half board US$389/576; as) and Matemo Island guesthouse.
camping, dorm beds and a couple of rustic Tiny Rolas island is known for its fascin- Resort (%in South Africa 011-465 6904; www.matemo Guludo (%in UK 01323-766 655; www.guludo.com) is
guesthouse rooms. It’s about 40km north- ating population of giant coconut-eating resort.com; Matemo Island; s/d with half board US$389/576; an upscale fair-trade camp that makes a fine
west of Pemba as the crow flies; allow 2½ land crabs. These nocturnal creatures, con- as) are operated by Rani Africa, which base if you want to combine a beach holiday
hours by road. Staff may be able to help with sidered to be the largest arthropods in the also runs the Pemba Beach Hotel in Pemba. with support for local community develop-
transfers. world, sometimes grow up to 1m long. ment initiatives. There are sea-facing safari-
They get their name from their proclivity Getting There & Away style tents, island excursions, diving and even
QUIRIMBAS ARCHIPELAGO for climbing coconut palms, shaking down AIR elephant tracking. It’s on a beautiful stretch
%272 the nuts, and then prying the cracked shells All lodges organise charters, and individual of sand about 15km south of Mucojo junc-
In the Quirimbas Archipelago, stunningly open to scoop out the flesh. seats are often available (US$65 per person tion; transfers can be arranged from Pemba
white patches of soft sand and brilliant tur- one way from Pemba to Ibo). and Macomia.
 290 N O R T H E R N M O Z A M B I Q U E • • M u e d a Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com M O Z A M B I Q U E D I R E C T O R Y • • A c c o m m o d a t i o n 291

There’s a daily chapa between Macomia Telecomunicações de Moçambique (Avenida 7 de Março; there are some wonderful island lodges. All
and Pangane, and several chapas daily be- per min US$0.60) has internet access. THE MAKONDE backpackers hostels and most resort hotels fill
tween Macomia and the Mucojo junction Like many tribes in the north for the coun- up around Christmas and during the South
(US$2), from where you can find a pick-up on Sleeping & Eating try, Mozambique’s Makonde are matrilineal. African school holidays (see p585); book in
to Pangane (US$0.80). Dhows to the Quirim- Pensão Leeta (%272-81147; Avenida Samora Machel; Children and inheritances normally belong advance if you’ll be travelling then.
bas Archipelago can be arranged at Hashim’s camping US$5, r US$10) At the town entrance near to the woman, and it’s common for hus- When quoting prices, many places distin-
Camp and Guludo. the transport stand, with no-frills and slightly bands to move to the village of their wives guish between a duplo (room with two twin
scruffy twin-bedded rooms sharing bucket- after marriage, setting up house near their beds) and a casal (double bed). Many hotels
MUEDA style baths. They’ll let you pitch a tent on mother-in-law. offer midweek and low-season discounts, and
Mueda, the main town on the cool Makonde their grounds. most places have children’s discounts.
Plateau, was the site of the infamous ‘mas- Hotel Chez Natalie (%82-527 9094; natalie@teledata
sacre of Mueda’ (see p239), and there’s a .mz; camping per tent US$8, 4-person chalets US$68) The between 3.30am and 4am, latest (US$10, four Budget
statue commemorating the town’s role in best bet in town, especially if you have your hours); arrange with the drivers the afternoon The cheapest options are small local hotels or
Mozambican independence at the western own transport, with camping (though only before to be collected from your hotel. Coming pensões, which start at about US$8 per room.
end of town. Many Makonde carvers live in minimal ablutions), three nice, family-style from Tanzania, the last vehicle to Moçimboa Expect shared bathrooms with cold water and
the outlying villages. chalets and a grill. Breakfast is included. It’s da Praia leaves the Rovuma by about noon. poor ventilation, though sometimes you’ll be
Pensão Takatuka (Rua 1 de Maio; r US$10, annexe 2km from the town centre overlooking the To Pemba, there’s a daily Mecula bus de- pleasantly surprised.
r US$12) and the nearby Motel Sanzala (Rua 1 de estuary; watch for the signposted turn-off near parting at 4.30am sharp (US$7, seven hours). Backpackers are the best budget value.
Maio; r US$10), both along the main road, have Clubé de Moçimboa. Get it at its garage, midway between Com- Most are along the southern coast; dorm beds
basic rooms. Complexo Miramar (Complexo Natasha; %272- plexo Miramar and the bus stand, or at the average US$10.
Grupo Mecula has daily buses to Pemba 81135/6; s/d US$18/24) A breezy waterside location main transport stand. A few chapas also do There are many camping grounds, especially
(US$7, eight hours) and Nampula (US$12, at the lower end of town, three no-frills ron- the journey, departing by 7am from the main along the coast. Free camping isn’t advisable
13 hours), departing at 5am. There are several davels, and a popular restaurant-bar. Follow road in front of the market. due to security concerns and the possibility of
vehicles each morning to Moçimboa da Praia the main road downhill to the water; it’s near land mines. In rural areas, ask the village régulo
(US$3.50, seven hours). All transport leaves the police station. PALMA (chief) for permission to camp.
from the main road opposite the market. This large fishing village is nestled among
Getting There & Away coconut groves about 45km south of the Tan- Midrange & Top End
MOÇIMBOA DA PRAIA BOAT zania border. Offshore are Rongui and Vamizi For midrange standards, including a private
%272 It’s easy to arrange dhows from Moçimboa da Islands, both privately owned as part of the bathroom, hot running water, electricity, air-
This bustling outpost, with its colourful dhow Praia. Expect to pay from US$10 to US$15 per Maluane Project (p288). conditioning (sometimes) and a restaurant
port, is the last major town before the Tanza- day, and see the general tips on opposite. The immigration office and the post office on the premises, expect to pay from about
nian border. If you’re travelling by dhow and are in the upper part of town. US$40 per room.
enter or leave Mozambique here, have your BUS & PICK-UP Hotel Palma (r US$8), 2km downhill from the Top-end hotels offer all the amenities you
passport stamped at the immigration office The transport stand is near the market at the immigration office, has basic rooms, and would expect from around US$150 per room,
near Complexo Miramar. Banco Austral (Avenida town entrance. Pick-ups daily go to/from the meals with advance notice. and often have special weekend deals.
Eduardo Mondlane) changes US dollars cash, and Rovuma via Palma, leaving Moçimboa da Praia All transport leaves from the Boa Viagem
MOZAMBIQUE

MOZAMBIQUE
roundabout at the entrance to town, 3km ACTIVITIES
from Hotel Palma. For travel to/from Tanzania Bird Watching
MAPIKO DANCING see p756. From Palma to the Rovuma River, Prime birding areas include the Bazaruto
If you hear drumming in the late afternoons while travelling around Cabo Delgado, it likely means chapas charge US$5, and depart from about Archipelago, Gorongosa National Park and
mapiko – the famed masked dancing of the Makonde. 6am. Transport to Moçimboa da Praia (US$5, nearby Mt Gorongosa, the Chimanimani
The dancer – always a man – wears a special wooden mask or lipiko (plural: mapiko), decorated 2½ hours) passes Palma between about 11am Mountains, Mt Namúli, the southern coastal
with wildly exaggerated features, hair (often real) and facial etchings. Before mapiko begins, the and 2pm. Dhows to offshore islands can be wetlands and Maputo Special Reserve. Rec-
dancer’s body is completely covered with large pieces of cloth wrapped around the legs, arms arranged from the harbour near Hotel Palma; ommended contacts for bird lists and bird-
and body so that nothing can be seen other than the fingers and toes. All evidence that there is take everything with you, including water. ing trips include the Pretoria-based Indicator
a person inside is supposed to remain hidden. Mapiko supposedly grew out of male attempts to Birding (www.birding.co.za), Southern African Birding

MOZAMBIQUE (www.sabirding.co.za) and the African Bird Club (www

limit the power of women in matrilineal Makonde society. The idea is that the dancer represents
the spirit of a dead person who has come to do harm to the women and children, from which only .africanbirdclub.org). The Mozambique Bird Atlas

DIRECTORY Project can be contacted through the Avian

the men of the village can protect them. While boys learn the secret of the dance during their
initiation rites, women are never supposed to discover it, and remain in fear of the mapiko. Demography Unit (http://web.uct.ac.za/depts/stats/adu
Once the dancer is ready, distinctive rhythms are beaten on special mapiko drums. The dance /p_mozat.htm) at the University of Cape Town.
is usually performed on weekend afternoons, and must be finished by sunset. The best places ACCOMMODATION
to see mapiko dancing are in and around Mueda, and in Macomia. To take a mask home, look Accommodation in Mozambique tends to Dhow Safaris & Boating
in craft shops in Pemba and Nampula. be pricier than elsewhere in the region, and The best places for arranging dhow safaris
midrange options are more limited, though are Vilankulo and the Bazaruto Archipelago
 292 M O Z A M B I Q U E D I R E C T O R Y • • B o o k s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com M O Z A M B I Q U E D I R E C T O R Y • • C h i l d re n 293

derful snorkelling). Prices are comparable to 8.30am to 5pm Monday to Friday, and on country. You’re also supposed to declare any
PRACTICALITIES what you would pay elsewhere in East Africa, Saturday until about noon. Restaurants are cash that you bring in excess of US$5000.

Mozambique’s main daily is Notícias. For though somewhat higher than in South Africa. generally open daily – many from about 9am, Local currency cannot be exported. Import
English-language news, try the website Humpback whales are seen all along the coast otherwise from noon – until about 10pm, or of food and other consumables is limited to
of Mozambique News Agency (AIM; between about July and September. The best earlier in smaller towns. Some close between a maximum value of US$200.
www.poptel.org.uk/mozambique-news). time to see whale sharks is between about lunch and dinner. Exceptions are listed in

Radio Mozambique (www.rm.co.mz) is November and March. individual reviews. Also see Business Hours DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
state run, with programming in Portu-
in the regional Directory chapter, p742. Mozambique has calmed down considerably
guese, English and local languages. Fishing from the war days when going anywhere by
Popular fishing areas include in the south CHILDREN road meant a convoy and a high risk of attack.

TV stations include TVM (state run), RTK between Ponta d’Ouro and Inhassoro, and in For general information on travelling with Today, it’s a relatively safe place, and most
(commercial), RTPI (Portuguese TV). the far north around Pemba, which is within children in the region, see p742. travellers shouldn’t have any difficulties. That

Electricity is 220V to 240V AC, 50Hz, easy reach of the famed St Lazarus Bank, east The southern beach resorts are among said, there are a few areas where caution is
accessed with South African-style of Quilaluia in the Quirimbas Archipelago. the best areas for visiting with young chil- warranted. Also see p302.
three-round-pin plugs or two-round- Inland, head to Lake Cahora Bassa, near Tete. dren, and most offer significant children’s
pin plugs. Adaptors are easily found in Contacts include Visagie World Charters (www discounts. Crime
major cities. .world-charters.com) for Pemba and the Quirimbas Powdered full-cream milk (but not Thefts and robberies are the main risks: watch

Weights, measures and road distances islands, and Ugezi Tiger Lodge (p273) for skimmed milk) is available in almost all mid- your pockets in markets, and avoid carry-
use the metric system. Lake Cahora Bassa. sized and larger towns, as is bottled water. ing a bag; don’t leave personal belongings
Nappies (diapers) are available in Maputo, unguarded on the beach or elsewhere; and
Hiking Beira, Chimoio and Nampula, as is prepared minimise (or eliminate) trappings such as
(contact Sail Away, p265), Pemba (contact The best mountain climbs are up Mt Namúli baby food. Shoprite branches and well-stocked jewellery, watches, headsets and external
Kaskazini, p285) and Pangane (contact (see the boxed text, p275) and Mt Gorongosa pharmacies are the best places to find baby money pouches. Never hold your wallet or
Guludo, p289). To organise things on your (p270). For hiking, there’s the Penha Longa supplies in all these towns. Cots and spare money in your hand while bargaining for
own (from around US$15 per boat per day) area near Manica (p271) and the Chimanim- beds are easily arranged at most midrange prices. If you leave your vehicle unguarded,
ask at your hotel for recommendations of ani Mountains, though there’s no infrastruc- and top-end places. For infants, pushchairs expect windscreen wipers and other acces-
reliable captains; travel with the prevailing ture and you’ll need a guide and tent. (strollers) are not practical. Much better is sories to be gone when you return. Don’t
winds (which blow south to north from about some sort of harness or cloth that allows you leave anything inside a parked vehicle. When
April/May to August/September and north Surfing to carry the baby on your back, Mozambican at stoplights or slowed in traffic, keep your
to south from November/December through The best waves are at Tofinho (see p262). style, or in front of you. windows up and doors locked, and don’t leave
February); bring plenty of extra food, water In beach areas, be aware of the risk of hook- anything on the seat next to you where it
and sun protection; and don’t set sail in bad Wildlife Watching worm infestation in populated areas, as well could be snatched.
weather. Unlike in some neighbouring countries, where as the risk of bilharzia in lakes. Other things In Maputo and southern Mozambique, due
Upmarket boat charters around the Quir- the herds practically come to you, in Mozam- to watch out for are sea urchins at the beach, to the proximity to South African organised
imbas and Bazaruto Archipelagos can be ar- bique you’ll need to spend considerable time, and thorns and the like in the brush. crime rings, carjackings and more violent
ranged through the island lodges. In Maputo, effort and, in some cases, money to seek them For malaria protection, it’s essential to robberies do occur, although the situation is
MOZAMBIQUE

MOZAMBIQUE
contact Clube Naval (%21-492690, 21-494881; Avenida out. Niassa Reserve, Maputo Special Reserve, bring nets from home for your children and nowhere near as bad as in Johannesburg, and
Marginal, Maputo) or the speedboat charter opera- and Gorongosa and Limpopo National Parks ensure that they sleep under them. Also bring most incidents can be avoided by taking the
tors listed in the Inhaca Getting There & Away are the main destinations. mosquito repellents from home, and check usual precautions – avoid driving at night,
section (p256). with your doctor regarding the use of prophy- don’t wander around isolated or dark streets,
BOOKS lactics. Long-sleeved shirts and trousers are and don’t put yourself in isolating situations,
Diving & Snorkelling To get started on Mozambique, look for Ka- the best protection at dawn and dusk. including on the beach. If you are driving
Mozambique offers wonderful diving and lashnikovs and Zombie Cucumbers: Travels Childcare is easy to arrange informally and your car is hijacked, hand over the keys
snorkelling. Quality equipment, instruction in Mozambique by Nick Middleton and With through your hotel. straight away.
and certification are readily available in the Both Hands Waving – A Journey Through
main coastal areas, including Ponta d’Ouro Mozambique by Justin Fox. Both are highly CUSTOMS
(known for its sharks and corals); Tofo and entertaining travelogues with lots of histori- It’s illegal to export any endangered species WARNING!
Barra (manta rays and whale sharks); Vi- cal snippets. or their products, including anything made All travellers, but especially women, and
lankulo and the Bazaruto Archipelago (dol- from ivory or tortoiseshell. If you bring in especially at Tofo and Vilankulo, should
phins, dugongs and fantastic fish diversity, BUSINESS HOURS a bicycle, laptop computer, video camera or avoid isolating situations, particularly iso-
plus excellent snorkelling); Ilha de Moçam- Banks are open from 8am to 3pm Monday to major camping and fishing equipment into lated stretches of beach. Enjoy the coast-
bique (historic wreck); Nacala (corals and Friday. Shops open from about 8am to noon Mozambique, you’ll need to fill out a tem- line, but always stay within sight of your
dhow-based diving); and Pemba and the and from 2pm to 6pm Monday to Friday, and porary import permit. You’ll then be given hotel or the crowds, and don’t go jogging
Quirimbas Archipelago (excellent fish diver- from 8am to 1pm Saturday. Most forex bur- a receipt, which you’ll need to present again or walking on the beach alone.
sity and coral gardens, wall dives and won- eaus (casas de câmbio) are open from about (with the item(s) declared) when leaving the
 294 M O Z A M B I Q U E D I R E C T O R Y • • E m b a s s i e s & C o n s u l a t e s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com M O Z A M B I Q U E D I R E C T O R Y • • Fe s t i v a l s & E v e n t s 295

South Africa Cape Town (%021-426 2944; 45 Castle Zimbabwe (Map pp248-9; %21-490404, 21-486499; Mozambique Music Magazine (www.mozambique
AVISO! (NOTICE) St, Castle Bldg, 7th fl); Durban (%031-304 0200; 320 1657 Avenida Mártires de Machava) -music.com) Mozambican music.
All foreigners are required to carry a copy of West St, Room 520); Johannesburg (%011-484 6427; 11 Mozambique News Agency (www.poptel.org.uk
their passport when out and about. Rather Boundary Rd, cnr Carse O’Gowrie Rd, Houghton); Nelspruit FESTIVALS & EVENTS /mozambique-news/) Mozambique news in English.
than carrying the original, it’s much better (%013-752 7396; 32 Bell St); Pretoria (%012-401 0300, Apart from national holidays, Mozambique
to carry a notarised copy of the name and 012-321 2288; 529 Edmund St, Arcadia) has few countrywide festivals. Smaller events LEGAL MATTERS
visa pages, as well as notarised copies of Swaziland (%404 3700; Mountain Inn Rd, Mbabane) abound, though, most with no advertising. The use or possession of recreational drugs is
your driving licence, and to hand these over Tanzania (%022-211 6502; 25 Garden Ave, Dar For concerts and performances, watch for illegal in Mozambique. However, grass and
if you’re asked. Notary facilities are avail- es Salaam) posters around town and announcements in more are readily available in several places
able in Maputo and other major cities; ask UK (%020-7383 3800; www.mozambiquehc.org.uk; 2 Notícias, and check with the Centro Cultural along the coast. If you’re offered anything, it
at your hotel for a recommendation. 1 Fitzroy Sq, London W1T 6EL) Franco-Moçambicano (p246). Local festivals will invariably be part of a set-up, and if you’re
USA (%202-293 7146; www.embamoc-usa.org; to watch for include Gwaza Muthini, held in caught, penalties are very stiff. At the least,
1990 M St, NW, Suite 570, Washington, DC 20036) Marracuene (p256) in early February to com- expect to pay a large bribe to avoid arrest or
Hassles & Bribes Zambia (%01-239135; 9592 Kacha Rd, Northmead, memorate the Battle of Marracuene and the imprisonment.
More likely than crime are simple hassles Lusaka) Off Paseri Rd. start of the ukanhi (traditional brew) season; Driving on the beach, driving without a
such as underpaid authorities in search of Zimbabwe (%04-253871; 152 Herbert Chitepo Ave, and the Chopi Timbilas Festival, held some- seatbelt (for driver and front-seat passengers),
bribes. If you do get stopped you shouldn’t Harare) where between June and August in Quissico exceeding speed limits and driving without
have any problem as long as your papers (p260). Maputo’s new two-week Avante Mozam- two red hazard triangles in the boot are all
are in order. Being friendly and respectful Embassies & Consulates in bique! festival is held each August/September; illegal, and are common ways of attracting
helps, as does trying to give the impression Mozambique see p251. police attention and demands for a bribe or
that you know what you’re doing and aren’t For a more complete listing check the tele- fine (multa).
new in the country. Sometimes the opposite phone directory. Except as noted, most are HOLIDAYS
tack is also helpful – feigning complete ig- open from about 8.30am to 3pm, often with New Year’s Day 1 January MAPS
norance if you’re told that you’ve violated a midday break. Mozambican Heroes’ Day 3 February The best is the Ravenstein map (1:2,000,000),
some regulation, and apologising profusely. Australia (Map pp248-9; %21-322780; www.embassy Women’s Day 7 April readily available outside Mozambique. Futur
If you are asked to pay a multa (fine) for a .gov.au/mz.html; 1st fl, 33 Storey Bldg, cnr Avenidas International Workers’ Day 1 May (p247) puts out a good country map with city
trumped-up charge, playing the game a bit Zedequias Manganhela & Vladimir Lenine) Independence Day 25 June inserts, available at their Maputo office and
(asking to speak to the supervisor or chefe, Canada (Map pp248-9; %21-492623; www.dfait-maeci Lusaka Agreement/Victory Day 7 September some hotels and bookshops.
and requesting a receipt) helps to counteract .gc.ca/mozambique/menu-en.asp; 1128 Avenida Julius Revolution Day 25 September
some of the more blatant attempts, as does Nyerere) Christmas/Family Day 25 December MONEY
insisting on going to the nearest police sta- France (Map pp248-9; %21-490444, 21-492896; www Mozambique’s currency is the metical (plural
tion or esquadrão (which you should always .ambafrance-mz.org; 2361 Avenida Julius Nyerere) For travel in southern Mozambique, also check meticais, pronounced me-ti-caish), abbre-
do anyway). Germany (Map pp248-9; %21-492714; www.maputo the South African school holidays (p585), viated Mtc. In July 2006 the ‘metical nova
.diplo.de; 506 Rua Damião de Gois) when everything fills up. família’ (new family metical) was introduced,
Land Mines Ireland (Map pp248-9; %21-483524/5, 21-491440; at a rate of 1000 old meticais to one meti-
Thanks to a massive demining effort, many of INTERNET ACCESS cal nova família. Metical nova família note
MOZAMBIQUE

ireland@virconn.com; 3332 Avenida Julius Nyerere)

MOZAMBIQUE
the unexploded land mines littering Mozam- Malawi (Map pp248-9; %21-492676; 75 Avenida Internet access is easy and fast in Maputo, and coin denominations include notes of
bique – a legacy of the country’s long war – Kenneth Kaunda) where there are numerous internet cafés. Mtc20, Mtc50, Mtc100, Mtc200, Mtc500 and
have been eliminated. However, mines are Netherlands (Map pp248-9; %21-490031; www Elsewhere, there are internet cafés in most Mtc1000, and coins of Mtc1, Mtc2, Mtc5 and
still a risk in some areas, so stick to well-used .nlembassy.org.mz; 285 Rua de Mukumbura) provincial capitals and some larger towns – Mtc10. One metical nova família is equiva-
paths, and don’t free camp or go wandering Portugal (Map pp248-9; %21-490316; often at the local Telecomunicações de lent to 100 centavos (Ct), and there are also
off into the bush anywhere without first seek- embaixada@embpormaputo.org.mz; 720 Avenida Julius Moçambique (TDM) office. Rates average coins of Ct1, Ct5, Ct10, Ct20 and Ct50. For
ing local advice. Nyerere) US$2 per hour, and connections range from exchange rates, see the inside front cover of
South Africa (Map pp248-9; %21-490059, 21-491614; reasonable to good. this guide.
EMBASSIES & CONSULATES consular@tropical.co.mz; 41 Avenida Eduardo Mondlane) Outside Maputo, the best way to travel in
Mozambican Embassies & Consulates Swaziland (Map pp248-9; %21-492117, 21-492451; INTERNET RESOURCES Mozambique is with a good supply of cash
Mozambican diplomatic representations: swazimoz@teledata.mz; Rua Luís Pasteur) African Studies Centre Mozambique Page (www in a mixture of US dollars (or South African
France (%01 47 64 91 32; 82 Rue Laugier, Paris 75017) Tanzania (Map pp248-9; %21-490110; 852 Avenida .africa.upenn.edu/Country_Specific/Mozambique.html) rand, especially in the south) and meticais
Germany (%030-3987 6500; emoza@aol.com; Strom- Mártires de Machava) Many links. (including a good supply of small-denomi-
strasse 47, 10551 Berlin) UK (Map pp248-9; %21-320111, 21-310111; bhc Kanimambo (www.kanimambo.com) In Portuguese, nation notes, as nobody ever has change).
Malawi Lilongwe (%01-774100); Limbe (%01-643189; .maputo@teledata.mz; 310 Avenida Vladimir Lenine) with English listings and links. Supplement this with a Visa card for with-
1st fl, Celtel Bldg, Rayner Ave, Limbe) The Lilongwe office USA (Map pp248-9; %21-492797; www.usembassy Mozambique Art Portal (www.arte.org.mz) An drawing meticais at ATMs (the best way of
is off Convention Dr. -maputo.gov.mz; 193 Avenida Kenneth Kaunda) overview of Mozambican art and artists. accessing money), and a few travellers cheques
Portugal (%021-797 1747, 797 1994; Avenida de Zambia (Map pp248-9; %21-492452; 1286 Avenida Mozambique Home Page (www.mozambique.mz) for emergencies (though they are difficult to
Berna 7, 1050-036 Lisbon) Kenneth Kaunda) Mozambique’s official website. change – see p296).
 296 M O Z A M B I Q U E D I R E C T O R Y • • Te l e p h o n e lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T R A N S P O R T I N M O Z A M B I Q U E • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 297

ATMs
All larger towns have ATMs for accessing cash
dialling internationally from TDM directly.
Collect (reverse-charge) calls are possible only
VISAS
Visas are required by all visitors except citi- TRANSPORT IN
meticais. Most accept Visa card only, and
many have a limit of Mtc3,000,000 (US$120)
per transaction.
to Portugal.
Domestic calls cost about US$0.10 per im-
pulse; most short calls won’t use more than
zens of South Africa, Swaziland, Zambia and
Botswana. They are available at most major
land and air entry points (US$25 for a one-
MOZAMBIQUE
two or three impulses. Calls to Europe, the month, single-entry visa). However, visa lines GETTING THERE & AWAY
Black Market USA and Australia cost from about US$5 for at busy borders are often long, and it’s best This section covers access to Mozambique
There’s essentially no black market, so if you the first three minutes (minimum), plus US$2 (and often cheaper) to arrange your visa in from neighbouring countries. For getting to
are offered good rates on the street, assume for each additional minute. Regional calls cost advance. If you’re arriving in Maputo via bus Southern Africa from outside the region, see
it’s a set-up. about US$3 for the first three minutes. Rates from Johannesburg it’s essential to get your the regional Transport chapter (p752).
are cheaper on weekends and evenings. visa in advance, as most buses won’t wait.
Cash All land-line telephone numbers now have Fees vary according to where you buy your Entering the Country
US dollars are easily exchanged everywhere, eight digits, including provincial area codes, visa, ranging from US$20 to US$70 for a Only a valid passport and visa are required to
and – together with South African rand – are which must always be dialled (even when call- one-month single-entry tourist visa outside enter, plus the necessary vehicle paperwork if
the best currency to carry. Other major cur- ing a number in the same city). Codes are in- Africa. Within the region, same-day visa serv- you are driving (p301).
rencies can be changed in Maputo. cluded with all telephone numbers in this book, ice is available at several places including
Most banks don’t charge commission and are also listed at the beginning of each town Johannesburg and Nelspruit (South Africa). Air
for changing cash, and together with forex section. No initial zero is required. The Mozambican representations in South Maputo’s Mavalane International (MPM; %21-
bureaus, these are the best places to change Africa and Swaziland are the cheapest places 465827/8; www.aeroportos.co.mz) is the main airport.
money, although some banks (including most Mobile Phones in the region to get visas, charging US$13 for Regional flights also go to the airports at
BIM branches) will let you change cash only Mobile phone numbers are seven digits, same-day service. Note that for getting a visa Vilankulo (VNX; %223-82207), Beira (BEW; %23-
if you have an account. preceded by %82 for Mcel (www.mcel.co.mz) or in Johannesburg, you’ll need to go first to a 301071/2), Nampula (APL; %26-213100, 26-213133)
In Maputo and other larger cities there are %84 for Vodacom (www.vm.co.mz). No initial branch of Nedbank and make a cash deposit and Pemba (POL; %272-20312).
foreign exchange bureaus (casas de câmbio), zero is required. If you see an old-style Mo- of the visa fee. Then, take the deposit slip The national carrier is Linhas Aéreas de
which usually give a rate equivalent to or zambique mobile number listed as ‘082-xxx with you to the embassy and make your visa Moçambique (LAM; code TM; %21-4680000, 21-490590;
slightly higher than the banks, and are open xxx’, just move the initial zero to the end application. Call the embassy (see p294) for www.lam.co.mz; hub Mavalane International, Maputo),
longer hours. Changing money on the street of the old six-digit number before dialling. bank account details. Wherever you get your which has flights connecting Johannesburg
isn’t safe anywhere, and is illegal – asking Otherwise, assume that seven-digit mobile visa, your passport must be valid for at least with Maputo (daily), Vilankulo and Beira
shopkeepers is a much better bet. numbers listed with zero at the outset are in six months from the dates of intended travel, (both twice weekly); Dar es Salaam with
South Africa; these must be preceded by the and have at least two blank pages. Pemba (five weekly); and Lisbon (Portugal)
Credit Cards South Africa country code (%27). Check with Maputo (five weekly). Other airlines
Credit cards are accepted at most top-end the Mcel and Vodacom websites for coverage Visa Extensions flying into Mozambique:
hotels and car-rental agencies, but otherwise (cobertura) maps. Mcel, the main provider, Visas can be extended at the immigration Kenya Airways (code KQ; %21-320337/8; www.kenya
are of only limited use. Visa is the most use- has outlets everywhere where you can buy office (migração) in all provincial capitals -airways.com; hub Jomo Kenyatta International, Nairobi)
ful, and is also the main (often only) card for Sim-card starter packs (US$2) and linked to provided you haven’t exceeded the three- Twice weekly between Maputo and Nairobi.
accessing money from ATMs. the network. Vodacom has shops in major month maximum stay. Processing takes one Pelican Air Services (code 7V; %in South Africa
MOZAMBIQUE

MOZAMBIQUE
towns, with similar services. to three days and is usually straightforward. 011-973 3649; www.pelicanair.co.za; hub OR Tambo Inter-
Travellers Cheques Don’t wait until the visa has already expired, national, Johannesburg) Daily between Johannesburg and
Travellers cheques can be changed only in Telephone Codes as hefty fines (US$100 per day) are levied for Vilankulo via Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport,
Maputo, Beira and a few other provincial When calling Mozambique from abroad, dial overstays. with connections to the Bazaruto Archipelago.
capitals, only at Standard Bank, and only the international access number (%09 from SAAirlink (code SA; %21-495483, 21-495484; www
with high commissions (minimum US$35 South Africa), then the international code for VOLUNTEERING .saairlink.co.za; hub OR Tambo International, Johannes-
per transaction, original purchase receipt re- Mozambique (%258), followed by the pro- Most volunteer work is in teaching or health burg) Three times weekly between Beira and Johannes-
quired). So, while it’s a good idea to bring vincial or city code (no zero) and the number. care, and school construction. Good initial burg, and between Maputo and Durban.
some along as an emergency standby, they For mobile numbers, dial the international contacts include InterAction (www.interaction.org), South African Airways (SAA; code SA; %21-495483,
shouldn’t be relied on as a source of funds in access number, followed by the international whose excellent twice-monthly subscriber 21-495484; www.flysaa.com; hub OR Tambo International,
Mozambique. code, the mobile prefix (no zero) and the newsletter advertises both paid and volunteer Johannesburg) Daily between Maputo and Johannesburg.
seven-digit number. positions internationally, including in Mo-
TELEPHONE zambique; and the Mozambique page of Volun-
The cheapest international dialling is with the TOURIST INFORMATION teer Abroad (www.volunteerabroad.com/Mozambique.cfm), ARRIVAL & DEPARTURE TAXES
Telecomunicações de Moçambique (TDM) The national tourist organisation, Fundo Na- which has links to volunteer opportunities in There’s an arrival tax of US$2. Departure tax
Bla-Bla Fixo card, sold at all TDM branches cional de Turísmo (Futur; www.futur.org.mz) is pri- the country. There is extensive missionary is US$20 for intercontinental and regional
and sometimes nearby shops. It’s a pre-paid marily geared to tourism promotion, but it’s work in Mozambique, so another possibility flights, payable in cash in meticais, US dol-
card for fixed lines (including those at TDM worth checking its English-language website would be to make inquiries through your lars or South African rand.
offices and card phones), and is cheaper than for an introduction to the country. local church.
 298 T R A N S P O R T I N M O Z A M B I Q U E • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T R A N S P O R T I N M O Z A M B I Q U E • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 299

Swazi Express (code Q4; %in South Africa 031-408 The crossing at Entre Lagos (for Cuamba SOUTH AFRICA Pafuri can be used to access the rough
1115; www.swaziexpress.com; hub Durban) Two to three and northern Mozambique) is possible with The busiest crossing is Komatipoort–Ressano tracks across Gaza and Inhambane provinces
flights weekly between Durban, Matsapha (Swaziland), your own 4WD, or via chapa between the Garcia (h6am-10pm), northwest of Maputo. to Mapinhane (at the junction with the EN1)
Maputo and Vilankulo. border and Cuamba. On the Malawi side, Others include Kosi Bay–Ponta d’Ouro (h8am- and the coast, or to go southeast into Limpopo
TAP Air Portugal (code TP; %21-303927/8, 21- there are minibuses from the border to Li- 4pm), 11km south of Ponta d’Ouro; Pafuri National Park, or towards Chokwé and the
431006/7; www.tap-airportugal.pt; hub Lisbon) Five flights wonde. Another option is the weekly Malawi (h8am-4pm), in Kruger park’s northeastern EN1 – all 4WD territory. There’s also a 4WD
weekly between Maputo and Lisbon. train, from where you’ll need to take a chapa corner; and Giriyondo (h8am-4pm Oct-Mar, 8am-3pm track sponsored by Sanparks (www.sanparks.org)
to Cuamba. Apr-Sep), northwest of Massingir. and Limpopo National Park (www.dolimpopo.com) that
Border Crossings More common is the Mandimba crossing. uses this crossing; see the websites for details.
Everyone entering Mozambique overland There’s frequent transport on the Malawi To/From Johannesburg The Limpopo River is unbridged and cross-
needs to pay an immigration tax of US$2 or side to Mangochi, from where you can get The best option between Johannesburg and able only in the dry season. Mozambique visas
the equivalent in meticais, rand or the local minibuses to Namwera, and on to the border Maputo is one of the large ‘luxury’ buses that are not issued at Pafuri, and there are no fuel
currency of the country from which you’re at Chiponde. Once in Mozambique, there are do the route daily (US$30 to US$38 one way, points anywhere along the route to Vilankulo
arriving. Have exact change, and get a receipt. several vehicles daily from Mandimba to both eight to nine hours), listed below (see p254 for until the EN1.
For additional fees and requirements for driv- Cuamba and Lichinga. Maputo location and contact details). All lines
ers, see p301). Except as noted, most borders also service Pretoria. You can also travel in Other routes
are open from 6am to 6pm. To/From Lilongwe each direction on these lines between Maputo Between Durban and Maputo, Panthera Azul
For information on getting to Mozambique The Dedza border is convenient for Lilongwe, and Nelspruit, but not between Nelspruit and (%in Durban 031-309 7798) has buses via Namaacha
from Tanzania and elsewhere outside South- and is linked with the EN103 to/from Tete Johannesburg. Organise your Mozambique and Big Bend in Swaziland (US$35, 8½ hours)
ern Africa, see p752. by a tarmac road. From Tete, there’s usually visa in advance. departing Maputo at 7am Tuesday, Thursday
at least one chapa daily to Ulongwé and on Greyhound (%in South Africa 011-276 8500; www and Saturday, and Durban at 7am Wednes-
MALAWI to Dedza. Otherwise, go in stages from Tete .greyhound.co.za) Daily from Johannesburg’s Park Station day, Friday and Sunday.
The busiest border is at Zóbuè, on the Tete via Moatize and the junction about 15km complex at 6.45am, and from Maputo at 7.30am. For travel via the Kosi Bay border post,
Corridor route linking Blantyre (Malawi) and southwest of Zóbuè. Once across the border, InterCape Mainliner (%in South Africa 021-380 see the Ponta d’Ouro Getting There & Away
Harare (Zimbabwe). Others include cross- it’s easy to find transport for the final 85km to 4400; www.intercape.co.za) Daily from Johannesburg’s section (p258).
ings at Dedza (85km southwest of Lilongwe), Lilongwe. If planning to enter Mozambique at Park Station complex at 8am, and from Maputo at 7.45am.
Milange (120km southeast of Blantyre), Entre this border, arrange your visa in advance. Panthera Azul (%in South Africa 011-618 8811/3; SWAZILAND
Lagos (southwest of Cuamba), Mandimba www.pantherazul.co.za) Daily from Johannesburg (34 The main crossing is at Lomahasha–Namaacha
(northwest of Cuamba), Vila Nova da Fron- Boat Bezuidenhout Ave, Troyville) at 7am; from Maputo at (h7am-8pm) in Swaziland’s northeast corner,
teira (at Malawi’s southern tip), and Cóbuè The Ilala ferry services several Mozambican 6.45am Monday, Wednesday and Friday, at 4am on Tues- with another, quieter post at Goba–Mhlumeni
and Metangula (both on Lake Niassa). ports on its way up and down Lake Niassa, day, Thursday and Saturday, and at 7am on Sunday. (h7am-6pm).
departing Monkey Bay (Malawi) at 10am Translux (%in South Africa 011-774 3333; www
To/From Blantyre Friday, arriving in Metangula (via Chipoka .translux.co.za) Daily from Johannesburg at 8.45am; from To/From Manzini
The Zóbuè crossing has good roads and public and Nkhotakota in Malawi) at 6am Saturday, Maputo at 7.45am. Minibuses depart Maputo throughout the
transport connections on both sides. There reaching Cóbuè around noon, Likoma Island day for Namaacha (US$2, 1½ hours), with
are daily vehicles from Blantyre to the border (Malawi) at 1.30pm, and Nkhata Bay (Malawi) For drivers, there’s a good toll road connect- some continuing on to Manzini (US$5, 3½
MOZAMBIQUE

MOZAMBIQUE
via Mwanza (US$4). Once on the Mozam- at 1am Sunday. Southbound, departures are at ing Maputo with Johannesburg via Ressano hours).
bique side there are daily chapas to Tete. Buses 8pm Monday from Nkhata Bay and at 6.30am Garcia. Bill’s Bus runs an occasional shuttle be-
between Blantyre and Harare via Zóbuè will Tuesday from Likoma Island, reaching Cóbuè Train is the other option. South Africa’s tween Manzini and Maputo, with connections
also drop you at Tete. at 7am and Metangula at noon. Komati line (%011-774 4555; www.spoornet.co.za) trav- to Tofo; get details through Grifter’s Lodge (www
Vila Nova da Fronteira sees a reasonable The schedule changes frequently; get an els between Johannesburg and the Komatipoort .grifterslodge.com) in Swaziland or Diversity Scuba
amount of traffic, although it’s an off-the- update from Malawi Lake Services (ilala@malawi border post daily (13 hours). Once across, it’s in Tofo (p262). Maputo Backpackers (p251)
beaten track journey. There are daily mini- .net). Fares are about US$40/20 for a 1st-class possible in theory to continue to Maputo by and Sobantu Guest Farm (www.swaziplace.com/sobantu)
buses from Blantyre to Nsanje and on to the cabin/economy class between Nkhata Bay rail. However, service in Mozambique is very also have a shuttle between Maputo and vari-
border. Once across, you can find chapas along and Cóbuè. slow; it’s much faster to take a chapa. ous points in Swaziland, connecting to Tofo.
a reasonable road via Mutarara to Sena, and There are immigration posts in Metangula Prices for both are about US$23 one way
from there on to Caia on the main north– and Cóbuè (and on Likoma Island and in To/From Kruger National Park between Swaziland and Maputo, and US$55
south road. Nkhata Bay, for Malawi). You can get a Mo- There are two border points between Mozam- from Swaziland to Tofo.
The Milange crossing is convenient for zambique visa at Cóbuè, but not at Metangula. bique and South Africa’s Kruger park, neither The Namaacha border is notoriously
Quelimane, Gurúè, and on to Ilha de Moçam- Slow sailing boats also go between Likoma accessible via public transport, and both re- slow at holiday weekends; the quiet border
bique. There are regular buses from Blantyre Island, Cóbuè and Metangula. quiring 4WD on the Mozambique side. at Goba (Goba Fronteira) makes a good al-
via Mulanje to the border. Once across, there Meponda was formerly linked with Mala- Giriyondo sees a small but steady stream of ternative. The new, good road from Swazi-
are several vehicles daily to Mocuba, and then wi’s Senga Bay via the weekly MV Mtendere. 4WD adventurers looking for an alternative land’s Mananga border, connecting north
frequent transport on to both Quelimane and It’s currently not running, but worth asking route to the Mozambican coast. See p260 to Komatipoort–Ressano Garcia, is another
Nampula. to see if services have resumed. for more. option.
 300 T R A N S P O R T I N M O Z A M B I Q U E • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T R A N S P O R T I N M O Z A M B I Q U E • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d 301

ZAMBIA Mukumbura, best done with 4WD, is of fairly carefully and to carry almost everything Sample journey fares and times: Maputo to
The main crossing is at Cassacatiza (h7am-5pm), interest mainly to anglers heading to Cahora with you, including all spares, as there are Inhambane (US$9, seven hours); Nampula to
290km northwest of Tete. There’s another Bassa dam. There is no public transport on long stretches with little or nothing en route. Pemba (US$7, seven hours); Maputo to Beira
crossing at Zumbo (h7am-5pm), at the western the Mozambique side. Avoid cycling in central Maputo and along (US$30, 18 hours). For schedule information,
end of Lake Cahora Bassa. main roads whenever possible, as there’s often see individual town listings.
Tours no shoulder, traffic is fast and drivers have
To/From Lusaka For tour operators who organise travel to little respect for cyclists. Carrying a tent is Car & Motorcycle
The road on both sides of the Cassacatiza/ Mozambique, as well as in-country itinerar- essential. However, because of land mines, the BRING YOUR OWN VEHICLE
Chanida border crossing is reasonably good, ies, see p303. odd chance of encountering roaming wildlife In addition to a passport and driving licence,
but the crossing is seldom used as most travel- (especially in the north), and general security drivers need third-party insurance, a tempor-
lers combining Mozambique and Zambia go GETTING AROUND concerns, it’s not a good idea to free camp. ary import permit, the original vehicle regis-
via Malawi. If you want to try it, chapas go Air Much better is to arrange something with tration papers and an authorisation document
daily from Tete to Matema, from where there’s AIRLINES IN MOZAMBIQUE villagers, who will invariably warmly welcome from the rental agency or registered vehicle
sporadic transport to the border. On the other The national airline is Linhas Aéreas de Moçam- you. Bicycles can be transported on buses owner, plus two red hazard triangles in the
side, there are daily vehicles to Katete (Zam- bique (LAM; %21-468000; www.lam.co.mz), which (US$2 to US$5, depending on the journey). boot. If you’re towing a trailer or boat, a haz-
bia), and then on to Lusaka or Chipata. together with its subsidiary, Moçambique ard triangle needs to be displayed on your
The rarely used crossing at Zumbo is dif- Expresso (Mex), runs most noncharter flights Bus front bumper and at the back of the trailer,
ficult to access from Mozambique, and of within Mozambique, linking Maputo with Bus travel is the most straightforward and and trailers also require reflective tape. You’ll
interest primarily to anglers and bird-watchers Inhambane, Vilankulo, Beira, Chimoio, economical way to get around, and relatively also need a sticker on the back of the vehicle
heading to the western reaches of Lake Cahora Quelimane, Tete, Nampula, Lichinga and reliable services connect all major towns at (or at the end of the trailer) showing the coun-
Bassa. See p273. Pemba. Service has improved markedly in least daily. try of registration (eg ZA for South Africa).
recent years, and flights are generally reliable. A large bus is called a machibombo, and Temporary import permits (TIP, about
ZIMBABWE Always reconfirm your ticket, and check in sometimes also autocarro. The main compa- US$2) and third-party insurance (US$23 to
The main crossing points are at Nyamapanda well in advance. nies are Transportes Oliveiras, with an exten- US$31 for 30 days, depending on vehicle size;
on the Tete Corridor, linking Harare with Tete LAM offers frequent specials; watch for sive but slow route network in southern and trailers from US$12) are available at most
and Lilongwe (Malawi), and at Machipanda advertisements in the daily newspaper, Notí- central Mozambique; the buses (including land borders, and you’ll be required to show
on the Beira Corridor linking Harare with the cias, or ask for one of their ‘Jacto Popular’ 30-seater minibuses) that once belonged to the the paperwork at all checkpoints (and will
sea. Other crossings are at Espungabera, in the fares, which require three to five days advance now-defunct TSL, and which operate on the be fined if you can’t produce it). Fees can
Chimanimani mountains, and at Mukumbura purchase. southern routes; and the good Grupo Mecula, be paid in meticais, US dollars or the local
(h7am-5pm), west of Tete. Other domestic carriers and routes are which has an extensive network in northern currency of the country you are leaving. As
listed below. Mozambique. Many lines run both express and some smaller border posts don’t always issue
To/From Harare Air Corridor (%21-311582; 26-213333; aircorridor@ stopping services. If there’s a choice, it’s worth third-party insurance, it’s worth arranging
Both the Nyamapanda and Machipanda bor- teledata.mz) The single Air Corridor plane does a daily paying the small difference between the two, this in advance with your local automobile
der crossings have reasonably good tarmac run up and down the coast, stopping at Maputo, Beira, as express is significantly faster. association if planning to enter Mozambique
access roads, and are easy to cross using public Quelimane, Nampula and Pemba; cheaper than LAM. Most towns don’t have central bus stations. via an out-of-the way routing. If you find
transport or hitching. Serviço Aéreo Regional (SAR; %26-212401; Rather, transport usually leaves from the bus yourself in Mozambique without it, contact
MOZAMBIQUE

MOZAMBIQUE
From Tete there are frequent vehicles to sargaw@teledata.mz) Twice weekly between Nampula company garage, or from the start of the road Hollard Seguros (%21-313114; www.hollard.co.za) to
Changara (US$3, 1½ hours) and on to the and Cuamba. towards the destination (which frequently help you sort it out.
border at Nyamapanda, where you can get TransAirways (%21-465108; transairways@virconn involves a hike of 1km to 2km from the centre
transport to Harare. Through buses between .com) Daily between Maputo and Inhaca Island. of town). Long-distance transport in gen- DRIVING LICENCE
Blantyre and Harare are another option, TTA (%21-465484, 21-465015, 282-82348) Daily eral, and all transport in the north, leaves You’ll need either a South African or an inter-
though schedules have been erratic due to between Vilankulo and the Bazaruto Archipelago, together early – between 3.30am and 7am. And, un- national driving licence to drive in Mozam-
fuel shortages in Zimbabwe. with Pelican Air Services (see p297). like many countries, Mozambican transport bique. Those staying longer than six months
From Chimoio there is frequent transport usually leaves quickly and close to the stated will need a Mozambique driving licence.
to Manica and from there to the border, from Bicycle departure time. If a driver tells you they will
where you’ll need to take a taxi for the 12km Cycling is a seldom used but good way to be departing at 4.30am, get there by 4.15am, FUEL & SPARE PARTS
to Mutare, and then get Zimbabwe transport see the ‘real’ Mozambique, but you’ll need at the latest. Petrol is a scarce commodity off main roads,
or the night train to Harare. In theory, this plenty of time to cover the long distances. especially in the north. Diesel supplies are
departs Mutare at 9pm, arriving in Harare at You’ll also need to plan the legs of your trip CLASSES & COSTS cheaper and more reliable. Always carry an
5.30am the next morning, although schedules All buses have just one class. Showing up on extra jerry can or two and tank up at every
have been interrupted in recent times. the morning of travel (about an hour prior to opportunity, as filling stations run out with
The seldom-used route via Espungabera is DOMESTIC DEPARTURE TAX departure for heavily travelled routes) is gen- some frequency. Or sometimes the fuel may be
slow and scenic, and an interesting dry-season Departure tax on domestic flights is US$8, erally enough to ensure you get a place. If you there but, if there’s a power outage, it may not
alternative for those with a 4WD. Public trans- payable in US dollars, meticais or rand. are choosy about your seat or want one in the be accessible. In some places, the only choice
port on the Mozambique side is scarce. front, get to the departure point earlier. will be petrol sold from roadside barracas
 © Lonely Planet Publications
302 T R A N S P O R T I N M O Z A M B I Q U E • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T R A N S P O R T I N M O Z A M B I Q U E • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d 303

(stalls); watch for petrol that has been mixed ROAD CONDITIONS and front-seat passenger. Speed limits (usually or truck. On some routes, your only option
with water or kerosene. Unleaded fuel (gasolina Mozambique’s road network is steadily im- 80km/h on main roads, and 50km/h or less will be a camião (truck). Many have open
sem chumbo) is available in major centres, but proving, and most southern coastal areas be- when passing through towns) are enforced backs, and on long journeys the sun and dust
not elsewhere. Fuel prices in Mozambique tween Maputo and Vilankulo are reachable by radar, and should be strictly adhered to can be brutal unless you get a seat upfront
average US$1 per litre for petrol, somewhat with 2WD, with the exception of some sandy as controls are frequent. Fines for speeding in the cab.
less for diesel. resort access roads. A 2WD vehicle is also fine and seatbelt and other traffic infringements Chapas can be hailed down anywhere,
A limited supply of spare parts is avail- for the roads connecting Nampula, Nacala, vary, and should always be negotiated (in a and prices are fixed. Intra-city fares average
able in Maputo and in major towns. Other- Ilha de Moçambique and Pemba, for the Beira polite, friendly way), keeping in mind that US$0.20; long-haul fares are usually slightly
wise, they’ll need to be ordered from South corridor, and for the Tete corridor between the standard speeding fine is about US$20. In higher than the bus fare for the same route.
Africa. Harare (Zimbabwe) and Tete. For most other addition to avoiding fines, another reason to Chapa drivers aren’t known for their safe driv-
routes, you’ll need 4WD with high clearance. limit your speed is to escape axle-shattering ing, and there are many accidents. If you have
HIRE However, all it takes is a heavy rainstorm or potholes that can appear out of nowhere, or a choice, bus is always a better option.
There are rental agencies in Maputo, Beira, some flooding to change the road map, so ask children or livestock running unexpectedly
Nampula and Pemba, most of which take around to get the latest updates. into the road. Tours
credit cards. Elsewhere, you can usually ar- Most of the main north–south highway has Although the rule is frequently violated, All of the following companies organise travel
range something with upscale hotels. Rates been sealed and is in reasonable to good shape driving on the beach is illegal (fines are about to Mozambique, as well as in-country itiner-
start at US$100 per day for 4WD, excluding except for the stretches between the Save River US$80), and driving off-road anywhere isn’t aries. Top-end hotels and lodges in Maputo
fuel. No rental agencies offer unlimited kilo- and Beira (under construction), from Caia recommended because of the risk of land and Pemba also offer fly-in packages from
metres. Rental cars from Mozambique can be north to Quelimane and on to Nampula (also mines. Johannesburg.
brought into South Africa and Swaziland, but under construction), and from Palma north to Dana Tours (www.danatours.net) Covers most of
not into other neighbouring countries. Let the the Rovuma River. The Beira corridor (EN6) is Hitching Mozambique, plus Mozambique–South Africa combination
rental agency know in advance so that they generally good tarmac, except between Beira In parts of rural Mozambique, your only itineraries.
can prepare the necessary paperwork. and Inchope (under construction). The road transport option will be hitching a lift. See Makomo Safaris (www.makomo.com) Combination
from Chimoio to Tete and Zóbuè is generally p764 for general considerations. In Mozam- itineraries for northern Mozambique, southern Tanzania,
INSURANCE good tarmac, as is that from Tete to Harare. bique, hitching is usually easy enough, though Zambia and Malawi.
All private vehicles entering Mozambique are From Lichinga to Cuamba and on to Nam- often quite slow off main routes. Payment for Mozambique Connection (www.mozambique
required to purchase third-party insurance pula, the road is reasonably good to Man- lifts is usually not expected, though it’s best to connection.co.za) Covers most of the country and all price
at the border (see Bring Your Own Vehicle, dimba, good from there into Cuamba, and in clarify before getting in, and a small token of ranges.
p301), which covers you to some degree in rough but reasonable condition from there on thanks, such as paying for a meal or making Ocean Island Safaris (www.oceanislandsafari.com)
the event of hitting a pedestrian or another to Nampula. Milange to Mocuba is unpaved a contribution for petrol, is always appreci- Luxury travel to the Quirimbas Archipelago, and itineraries
Mozambican vehicle. It’s also advisable to but fine during the dry season. ated. To flag a vehicle down, hold your hand combining Mozambique and other Indian Ocean islands.
take out good insurance coverage at home out at about waist level and wave it up and Wildlife Adventures (www.wildlifeadventures.co.za)
or (for rental vehicles) with the rental agency ROAD HAZARDS down. Try to avoid hitching alone, especially Coastal Mozambique, and itineraries combining Mozam-
to cover damage to the vehicle, yourself and Drunk driving is common, as are excessive women. Throughout the country, the preva- bique with elsewhere in Southern and East Africa.
your possessions. Car-rental agencies in speeds, and there are many road accidents. lence of drunk drivers makes it worth trying Zambezia Travels (www.zambezia.ch) Focuses on
Mozambique have wildly differing policies Armed robberies and carjackings are a risk, to assess the driver’s condition before getting
MOZAMBIQUE

central and northern Mozambique, including Gurúè, Mt

MOZAMBIQUE
(some offer no insurance at all, those that do especially in Maputo. Throughout the coun- into a vehicle. Namúli, Cuamba and Ilha de Moçambique.
often have high deductibles and most won’t try, travel as early in the day as possible, and
cover off-road driving) so inquire before avoid driving at night. If you must drive at Local Transport Train
signing any agreements. If renting in South night, use appropriate speeds, watch for ped- The main form of local transport is the chapa – The only passenger train regularly used by
Africa, ask whether Mozambique is included estrians and obstacles (including parked ve- the name given to converted minivans or tourists is the slow line between Nampula and
in the coverage. hicles with no lights) in the middle of the any other public transport that isn’t a bus Cuamba; see p283.
road and keep the doors locked and windows
PURCHASE up. Tree branches in the road are the local
High duties and associated costs, as well as version of flares or hazard lights, and mean
problems with stolen cars, make it not really there’s a stopped vehicle, crater-sized pothole
worth considering purchasing a vehicle in or similar calamity ahead. For public trans-
Mozambique for most travellers. If you will port, where there’s a choice, always take buses
be in Mozambique for an extended period, rather than chapas.
embassy notice boards are the best place to © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
check for ads for used vehicles. As many of ROAD RULES restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
these will have been imported under special In theory, traffic in Mozambique drives on only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
tax provisions applicable to diplomats, check the left. At roundabouts, traffic in the round-
out the fees and taxes you’ll need to pay in about has the right of way (again, in theory). everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
addition to the selling price. There’s a seatbelt requirement for the driver the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
 © Lonely Planet Publications
304 lonelyplanet.com N A M I B I A • • H i g h l i g h t s 305

Namibia
extreme sports in Swakopmund (p360),
HOW MUCH? take a safari through Etosha (p332), hike

Dune surfing US$25 the Fish River Canyon (p385) and go on an
expedition through the northwest and

Foreign newspaper US$1.70
along the Skeleton Coast (p354).

Night in a budget hotel US$12.50

Package of kudu biltong US$1 CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO

Traditional German dinner US$6
Namibia’s climatic variations correspond
Wedged between the Kalahari and the South Atlantic, Namibia enjoys both vast potential roughly to its geographical subdivisions. In
and promise as one of the youngest countries in Africa. In addition to a striking diversity the arid Central Namib, summer daytime
LONELY PLANET INDEX
of cultures and national origins, Namibia is also a photographer’s dream – it boasts wild temperatures may climb to over 40°C, but
seascapes, rugged mountains, lonely deserts, stunning wildlife, colonial cities and nearly
1L of petrol US$0.75 can fall to below freezing during the night.

1L of bottled water US$0.50-1 Rainfall is heaviest in the northeast, which
unlimited elbow room. enjoys a subtropical climate, and along the

Bottle of beer US$1
A predominantly arid country, Namibia can be divided into four main topographical re- Okavango River, rainfall reaches over 600mm

Souvenir T-shirt US$5-10 annually. The northern and interior regions
gions: the Namib Desert and coastal plains in the west, the eastward-sloping Central Plateau, experience the ‘little rains’ between October

Snack US$1-2
the Kalahari along the borders with South Africa and Botswana, and the densely wooded and December, while the main stormy period
bushveld of the Kavango and Caprivi regions. Despite its harsh climate, Namibia has some occurs from January to April.
of the world’s grandest national parks, ranging from the wildlife-rich Etosha National Park HIGHLIGHTS Note that accommodation is frequently

Sossusvlei (p371) Watch the sun rise from booked out in national parks and other tour-
to the dune fields and desert plains of the Namib-Naukluft Park.
the tops of flaming red dunes on the edge ist areas, especially during public holidays.
The Namib is one of the oldest and driest deserts in the world, and is the result of the of ephemeral salt pans. The busiest times are consistently during the

Etosha National Park (p332) Go on a self- Namibian, South African (see p585) and Euro-
Benguela Current sweeping north from Antarctica, which captures and condenses humid air drive safari in one of the continent’s pean school holidays. See p742 for more on
that would otherwise be blown ashore. Its western strip is a sea of sand comprised mainly premier wildlife venues. the climate in Southern Africa.
of apricot-coloured dunes interspersed with dry pans. However, the barren and inhospitable
Swakopmund (p355) Get your adrenaline fix
landscapes of the Namib are markedly different from those present in the Kalahari. Unlike at this popular extreme-sports capital of HISTORY
Namibia. For information on the general history of
the Namib, the Sahara and other ‘true’ deserts, the Kalahari is a semi-arid landscape that is

Fish River Canyon (p385) Test your endur- Southern Africa, see p37.
covered with trees and crisscrossed by ephemeral rivers and fossil watercourses. It is one of ance on the five-day hike through one of
the continent’s most prominent geographical features, and stretches across parts of Congo, the world’s largest canyons. The Scramble for Africa
Angola, Zambia, Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe and South Africa.
Off the beaten track (p354) Leave the sealed The Germans, under chancellor Otto von Bis-
road along the Skeleton Coast, a desolate marck, were late entering the European scram-
strip of fog-covered coastline. ble for Africa. Bismarck had always been against
colonies; he considered them an expensive il-
ITINERARIES lusion, famously stating, ‘My map of Africa
FAST FACTS Three Days Namibia’s tourist highlight is is here in Europe. Here is Russia and here is



Area: 825,000 sq km the expansive sand sea of the Namib (see France and here we are in the middle. That is
p373), and if you have only a few days to my map of Africa.’ But he was to be pushed into

Capital: Windhoek
visit, this is where you’ll want to focus. an ill-starred colonial venture by the actions

Country code: %264 From Sesriem (p371), spend a day hik- of a Bremen merchant called Adolf Lüderitz.

Famous for: Namib Desert, Kalahari, ing through the dunes, or arrange for Having already set up a trading station in
Etosha Pan a scenic flyover from the beach town of Lagos in 1881, Lüderitz convinced the Nama
Swakopmund (p355). chief, Joseph Fredericks, to sell Angra Pequena,

Languages: English, Afrikaans, German,

One Week Combine a visit to the Namib where Lüderitz established his second station
Oshivambo, Herero, Nama
with a safari through Etosha National Park trading in the stinking guano of thousands

Money: Namibian dollar (N$) (p332), one of the continent’s most dis- of cormorants who nest along the coast. He

Phrase: Howzit? (How are you?) tinctive safari experiences. Splurge on a then petitioned the German chancellor for
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
rental car, and get ready for some hair- protection. Bismarck, still trying to stay out of

Population: 1.83 million
raising, self-driven good times. Africa, politely requested the British at Walvis

One Month With a month, you can hire a Bay to say whether they had any interest in the
4WD or use a reputable safari company matter but they never bothered to reply and in
and see the best of the country: take a 1884 the newly named Lüderitz was officially
tour of the Namib (p373), splurge on some declared part of the German Empire.
 306 N A M I B I A • • H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N A M I B I A • • H i s t o r y 307

Reaping the Whirlwind of German colonial rule in Southwest Africa.

WHAT’S YOUR BUDGET? Meanwhile, in the south of the country, dia- By this time, though, the Germans had all but
If you’re camping or staying in backpackers’ hostels, cooking your own meals and hitching or monds had been discovered at Grasplatz, east succeeded in devastating the Herero tribal
using local minibuses, you’ll get by on as little as US$15 per day. A plausible midrange budget, of Lüderitz, by a South African labourer, structures and taken over all Khoikhoi and
which would include B&B or doubles in backpackers’ accommodation, public transport and at Zacharias Lewala. Despite the assessment Herero lands. The more fortunate Owambo,
least one restaurant meal daily, would be around US$50 to US$80 per person (if accommodation of De Beers that the find probably wouldn’t in the north, managed to avoid German
costs are shared between two people). In the upper range, accommodation at hotels, meals in amount to much, prospectors flooded in to conquest, but were subsequently overrun
restaurants and escorted tours will cost upwards of US$300 per person per day. stake their claims. By 1910, the German au- during WWI by Portuguese forces fighting
To reach Namibia’s most popular tourist sites, you’ll have to take an organised tour or hire thorities had branded the entire area between on the side of the Allies.
a vehicle (see p395). Car hire may be expensive for budget travellers, but if you can muster a Lüderitz and the Orange River a Sperrgebiet In 1914, at the beginning of WWI, Britain
group of four people and share costs, you can squeak by on an additional US$20/50 per day for (closed area), threw out the prospectors and pressured South Africa into invading Na-
a 2WD/4WD vehicle, including petrol, tax, insurance and 200 free kilometres per day. granted exclusive rights to Deutsche Dia- mibia. Under the command of Prime Minis-
manten Gesellschaft. ter Louis Botha and General Jan Smuts, the
But for all the devastation visited upon the South Africans pushed northwards, forcing

ὈὈ ὈὈ
Initially, German interests were minimal, the Herero and pursue a system of semino- local populace Germany was never to benefit the outnumbered Schutztruppe to retreat.
and between 1885 and 1890 the colonial ad- madic pastoralism. The problem with this from the diamond riches they found. The In May 1915, the Germans faced their final
ministration amounted to three public admin- was that all the best land fell within the ter- advent of WWI in 1914 was to mark the end defeat at Khorab, near Tsumeb, and a week
istrators. Their interests were served largely ritories of either the Herero or the Nama
through a colonial company (along the lines and they weren’t about to give it up without NAMIBIA 0 200 km
0 120 miles
of the British East India Company in India a fight. Za
Cu ZAMBIA

ὈὈὄ
ὈὈ
ὄὄὈ Ὀ
m
prior to the Raj), but the organisation couldn’t In 1904, the paramount chief of the Herero an
do
be
zi
Epupa ANGOLA
maintain law and order. invited his Nama, Baster and Owambo coun- Falls Uutapi/
Ri
ve
Ri
ve Katima
e r r Mulilo
So in the 1880s, due to renewed fighting terparts to join forces with him to resist the un
en Riv
Ombalantu
Oshikango
Bwabwata
NP

Ok
er
K Ruacana ava
between the Nama and Herero, the German growing German presence. This was an un- Ruacana
Owambo Country ngo Rive
r vi Stri
p Kongola Kasane
Rundu Capri iver
government dispatched Curt von François likely alliance between traditional enemies, Falls Oshakati Ondangwa Divundu
Popa Mudumu beR
Opuwo NP ho
and 23 soldiers to restrict the supply of arms especially considering that warring between Kaokoveld Etosha Khaudom
Falls
Shakawe
C
Namutoni Mamili
from British-administered Walvis Bay. This the Herero and Nama had been a catalyst for GR

ὈὈὈὈ
Cabo NP NP
Frio Skeleton Tsumeb Okavango
seemingly innocuous peacekeeping regiment increased involvement by the colonial pow- Coast Okaukuejo
Halali
Delta
Otavi
slowly evolved into the more powerful Schutz- ers. Driven almost all the way back to Wind- Park Grootfontein
Tsumkwe
Maun
Damaraland Kombat
truppe (Imperial Army), which constructed hoek, the German Schutztruppe brought in Petrified ab
Rv Outjo Waterberg
Terrace Bay Hu Plateau Park Otjozondjupa
forts around the country to aid its efforts to reinforcements and under the ruthless hand of Torra Bay
Forest Khorixas
Riv
er Otjiwarongo Region
Okakarara
put down opposition. General von Trotha went out in force to meet

ab
Twyfelfontein

Ug
Burnt Mountain Kalkfeld
At this stage of its history, Namibia became the Herero forces at their Waterberg camp. Brandberg

ὈὈὈ
ὈὈ ὈὈ
(2573m)
a fully fledged protectorate, known as German On 11 August 1904 the Battle of Water- Spitzkoppe Omaruru Rietfontein Ghanzi
(1728m) Usakos
South-West Africa. The first German farm- berg commenced. The general’s plan was to Henties Bay Karibib
Okahandja Mamuno
BOTSWANA
ers arrived in 1892 to take up expropriated surround the Herero position and with their National West Coast
RA
Daan Viljoen Gobabis Buitepos
GP
land on the Central Plateau, and were soon massively superior firepower ‘annihilate these Swakopmund
WINDHOEK
Arnhem Cave
Walvis Bay
followed by merchants and other settlers. In masses with a simultaneous blow’. Although Rehoboth
Dordabis
Leonardville
Sandwich Harbour
the late 1890s, the Germans, the Portuguese the casualties on the day were fairly light, Aminuis

ὈὈὈ
To Gaborone
in Angola and the British in Bechuanaland Von Trotha ordered the pursuit and exter- LEGEND
GR Game Reserve
Solitaire Naukluft
Namib- Mountains Aranos (110km)
agreed on Namibia’s boundaries. mination of some 65,000 survivors over the GP Game Park Naukluft Park (1973m)
Mariental
Stampriet
NP National Park Sesriem Maltahöhe
following four weeks, only desisting when NR Nature Reserve Sossusvlei Gochas
Kgalagadi
Kanye
RA Recreational Area
Colonial Atrocities his troops began to die from exhaustion and TP Transfrontier Park Namib Rand
Gibeon TP

Once the Germans had completed their in- typhoid, which they contracted from polluted NR
Koës
Tshabong
Helmeringhausen
ventory of Namibia’s natural resources, it is water holes littered with human bodies. In all, ATLANTIC
Brukkaros
(1586m) To Johannesburg
(390km)
difficult to see how they could have avoided some 80% of the entire Herero population OCEAN
Aus
Bethanie Keetmanshoop
Vryburg
the stark picture that presented itself. Their was wiped out. Lüderitz
Kolmanskop
Aroab

new colony was a drought-afflicted land en- At this stage, the Nama, under Hendrik DIAMOND AREA 1
(Prohibited Area)
SOUTH N
14 r
AFRICA ve
veloped by desert, with a nonexistent trans- Witbooi, took up the resistance cause and Fish River Canyon Grünau Ri
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
NP Karasburg Ariamsvlei

al
port network, highly restricted agricultural launched a large-scale rebellion, but after their Rosh Pinah

Va
Ai-Ais Upington
Warmbad
opportunities, unknown mineral resources defeat at the Battle of Vaalgras on 29 October Noordoewer r Kimberley
e
and a sparse, well-armed indigenous popu- 1905, the 68-year-old Witbooi died of his Oranjemund
Riv
Richtersveld
NP Orange N
12
lation. It was hardly the stuff of empirical wounds. Still, it was to be another three years N
10
dreams. In fact, the only option that readily before the Germans had fully defeated the To Cape Town (550km)
Prieska

presented itself was to follow the example of remaining guerrilla forces in the south. Springbok
 308 N A M I B I A • • H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N A M I B I A • • T h e C u l t u re 309

later a South African administration was set better-watered tribal areas to the north. Per- until 1984; Nujoma stayed in Tanzania. In advisers including the USA, France, Germany
up in Windhoek. haps the only positive result of this effective 1972, the UN finally declared the South Afri- and the USSR, a constitution was drafted. The
By 1920, many German farms had been imposition of tribal boundaries was the pre- can occupation of Southwest Africa officially new constitution established a multiparty sys-
sold to Afrikaans-speaking settlers and the vention of territorial disputes between previ- illegal and called for a withdrawal, proclaim- tem and an impressive bill of rights, covering
German diamond-mining interests in the ously mobile groups now forced to live under ing Swapo the legitimate representative of the provisions for protection of the environment,
south were handed over to the South Africa– the same political entity. This arrangement Namibian people. the rights of families and children, freedom of
based Consolidated Diamond Mines (CDM), was retained until Namibian independence In 1975 the independence of Angola finally religion, speech and the press, and a host of
which retains the concession rights to the in 1990, and to some extent continues up to gave Swapo a safe base just across the border other matters. It also limited the presidential
present day. the present day. from the action in Namibia, which enabled executive to two five-year terms. The new con-
them to step up their guerrilla campaign. stitution was adopted in February 1990 and
South African Occupation Swapo South Africa responded by invading Angola independence was granted a month later, with
Under the Treaty of Versailles in 1919, Ger- Throughout the 1950s, despite mounting in support of the opposition party Unita Sam Nujoma being sworn in as Namibia’s
many was required to renounce all its colonial pressure from the UN, South Africa refused to (National Union for the Total Independ- first president.
claims, and in 1921 the League of Nations release its grip on Namibia. This intransigence ence of Angola). The attempt failed, and by In 1999, Swapo won 76.8% of the vote, al-
granted South Africa a formal mandate to was based on its fears of having yet another March 1976 the troops had been withdrawn, though concerns arose when President Nujoma
administer Namibia as part of the Union. antagonistic government on its doorstep and although incursions continued well into the amended the constitution to allow himself
After a brief rebellion in 1924, the Basters at of losing the income that it derived from the 1980s. a rather unconstitutional third presidential
Rehoboth, who were descendants of liaisons mining operations there. In the end, however, it was not the activit- term.
between the Cape Colony Dutch and indig- Forced labour had been the lot of most ies of Swapo alone or international sanc- In 2004 the world watched warily to see if
enous African women, were granted some Namibians since German annexation, and tions that forced the South Africans to the Nujoma would cling to the office of power
measure of autonomy, and the following year was one of the main factors that led to mass negotiating table. People were growing tired for a fourth term, and an almost audible sigh
the territorial constitution was amended to demonstrations and the increasingly na- of the war and the economy was suffering of relief could be heard in Namibia when he
permit South Africa to set up a territorial tionalist sentiments during the late 1950s. badly. South Africa’s internal problems also announced that he would finally be stepping
legislature. Among the parties was the Owamboland had a significant effect. By 1985, the war was down in favour of his chosen successor Hi-
The mandate was renewed by the UN fol- People’s Congress, founded in Cape Town costing some R480 million (around US$250 fikepunye Pohamba.
lowing WWII. However, South Africa was under the leadership of Samuel Daniel Shafi- million) per year and conscription was wide-
more interested in annexing Southwest Africa ishuna Nujoma and Adimba Herman Toivo spread. Mineral exports, which once provided THE CULTURE
as a full province in the Union and decided ja Toivo. around 88% of the country’s GDP, had plum- The National Psyche
to scrap the terms of the mandate and re- In 1959, the party’s name was changed meted to just 27% by 1984. On a national level, Namibia is still struggling
write the constitution. In response, the Inter- to the Owamboland People’s Organisation to attain a cohesive identity. History weighs
national Court of Justice determined that and Nujoma took the issue of South African Independence heavy on generations who grew up during the
South Africa had overstepped its boundaries occupation to the UN in New York. By 1960, In December 1988 a deal was finally struck struggle for independence. As a result, some
and the UN established the Committee on his party had gathered the support of several between Cuba, Angola, South Africa and formidable tensions endure between vari-
South West Africa to enforce the original others and they eventually coalesced into the Swapo that provided for the withdrawal of ous social and racial groups. Although most
terms of the mandate. In 1956, the UN de- South West African People’s Organisation Cuban troops from Angola and South Afri- travellers will be greeted with great warmth
cided that South African control should be (Swapo) with its headquarters located in Dar can troops from Namibia. It also stipulated and curiosity, some people may experience
terminated. es Salaam (Tanzania). Troops were sent to that the transition to Namibian independence unpleasant racism or apparently unwarranted
Undeterred, the South African government Egypt for military training and the organis- would formally begin on 1 April 1989, and hostility (this is not confined to black/white
tightened its grip on the territory, and in 1949 ation prepared for war. would be followed by UN-monitored elec- relations but can affect travellers of all ethnici-
granted the white population parliamentary In 1966, Swapo took the issue of South tions held in November 1989 on the basis of ties as Namibia’s ethnic groups are extremely
representation in Pretoria. The bulk of Na- African occupation to the International Court universal suffrage. Although minor score- varied in colour).
mibia’s viable farmland was parcelled into of Justice. The court upheld South Africa’s settling and unrest among some Swapo troops Acquainting yourself with Namibia’s com-
some 6000 farms for white settlers, while right to govern South West Africa, but the threatened to derail the whole process, the plex and often turbulent past will hopefully
other ethnic groups were relegated to newly UN General Assembly voted to terminate plan went ahead and in September, Samuel alert you to potentially difficult or awkward
demarcated ‘tribal homelands’. The official South Africa’s mandate and replace it with Nujoma returned from his 30-year exile. In situations. Taking care to follow basic eti-
intent was ostensibly to ‘channel economic a Council for South West Africa (renamed the elections, Swapo garnered two-thirds of quette such as dressing appropriately (see
development into predominantly poor rural the Commission for Namibia in 1973) to the votes but the numbers were insufficient p310), greeting people warmly or learning
areas’, but it was all too obvious that it was, in administer the territory. to give the party the sole mandate to write a few words of the local languages will also
fact, simply a convenient way of retaining the In response, on 26 August 1966 (now called the new constitution, an outcome that went stand you in good stead.
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NAMIBIA
majority of the country for white settlement Heroes’ Day), Swapo launched its campaign some way to allaying fears that Namibia’s Socially, Namibians enjoy a rock-solid
and ranching. of guerrilla warfare at Ongulumbashe in the minority groups would be excluded from the sense of community thanks to the clan-based
As a result, a prominent line of demarca- Owambo region of northern Namibia. The democratic process. system. Members of your clan are people you
tion appeared between the predominantly next year, one of Swapo’s founders, Toivo ja Following negotiations between the Con- can turn to in times of need. Conversely, if
white ranching lands in the central and south- Toivo, was convicted of terrorism and impris- stituent Assembly (which was soon to become someone from your clan is in trouble you are
ern parts of the country, and the poorer but oned in South Africa, where he would remain the National Assembly) and international obligated to help; this may mean providing
 310 N A M I B I A • • T h e C u l t u re lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N A M I B I A • • R e l i g i o n 311

food for someone who is hungry, care for Most Namibians still live in homesteads status to get tested, the objection being that other ethnic groups making up a relatively
someone who is sick, or even the adoption of in rural areas and lead typical village lives. they were ‘uncomfortable with youngsters small percentage of the population: Kavango
an orphaned child in some cases. This inclu- Villages tend to be family- and clan-based or junior officers coming to them and telling (9%), Herero/Himba (7%), Damara (7%),
sivity also extends to others – any traveller and are presided over by an elected elenga them to go for testing’. Being disrespect- Caprivian (4%), Nama (5%), Afrikaner and
who is willing is sure to be asked to partici- (headman). The elenga is responsible for local ful to or undermining one’s elders or social German (6%), Baster (6.5%), San (1%) and
pate in a spontaneous game of football or a affairs, everything from settling disputes to and professional superiors is a heinous social Tswana (0.5%).
family meal. determining how communal lands are man- crime. Although this ethnic diversity is overlain
Such an all-embracing social structure also aged. He in turn reports to a senior headman, In a culture where male power is mytholo- with Western cultural influences, since inde-
means that the family nucleus is less impor- who represents a larger district comprised of gised, it’s unsurprising that women’s rights pendence there have been efforts to empha-
tant. Indeed many Namibian ‘families’ will several dozen villages. This system functions lag behind. It’s not uncommon for men to sise the history and traditions of each group.
include innumerable aunts and uncles, some alongside Namibia’s regional government have multiple partners and, until recently, in About 75% of the people inhabit rural areas,
of whom might even be referred to as mother bodies and enables traditional lifestyles to cases where women and their children were but urban drift in search of work or higher
or father. Likewise, cousins and siblings are flourish side by side with the country’s mod- abandoned by their husbands there was very wages has resulted in increased homelessness,
interchangeable and in some rural areas men ern civic system. little course for redress. Part of the problem unemployment and crime in the capital and
may have dozens of children, some of whom Modesty in dress and manner are important was that Namibia inherited the rather back- other towns.
they might not even recognise. In fact, it is this in Namibia. T-shirts and shorts are unheard of ward Roman-Dutch law that governed the Like nearly all other African nations Na-
fluid system that has enabled families to deal and while foreign men may just be able to pull country during apartheid. However, since mibia is struggling to contain its HIV/AIDS
in some way with the devastation wreaked by it off, you may feel like the only person at the independence the Namibian government has epidemic, which is impacting heavily on aver-
the AIDS crisis. wedding who came in casual dress! Modest been committed to improving women’s rights age life expectancy and population-growth
dress is required of women, but probably to with bills like the Married Persons Equality rates. According to the WHO, life expectancy
Daily Life an even greater degree. Keeping up appear- Act (1996), which equalised property rights in Namibia has dropped to a shocking 54
On the whole Namibians are conservative ances is also all-important and extends from and gave women equal rights of custody over years, although some sources place it as low
and god-fearing people (90% of the country dressing well, behaving modestly, performing their children. as 46. In 2003 it was estimated that about
is Christian, with about 10% of people follow- religious and social duties to fulfilling all es- However, the government acknowledges 21% of the population were HIV-positive and
ing indigenous belief systems). Education is sential family obligations. that achieving gender equality is more about by 2021 it is estimated that up to a third of
technically compulsory for all children (the changing grassroots attitudes than passing Namibia’s children under the age of 15 could
literacy rate is 84%) and the motivation to get A Woman’s Place laws, as a survey into domestic violence in be orphaned.
a good education is high. Since independence Namibian society is unquestionably patri- 2000 revealed. Of the women interviewed for
the government has built some 832 classrooms archal, although women have traditionally the survey in Lüderitz, Karasburg and Keet- RELIGION
and 700 literacy centres around the country worked hard to contribute to the family in- manshoop, 25% said they had been abused About 80% to 90% of Namibians profess to
and now at least 80% of the population is come. As head of the family, men are ex- or raped by their husbands. Endemic social being Christians, and German Lutheranism is
receiving a basic primary-school education. pected to project their authority through problems, such as poverty, alcohol abuse the dominant sect in most of the country. As
But getting an education is by no means easy material wealth, charisma or often just their and the feeling of powerlessness engendered a result of early missionary activity and Por-
for everyone and for families living in remote own physical size. Status – according to pro- by long-term unemployment, only serve to tuguese influence from Angola, there is also
rural areas it often means that very young fession, wealth and family – is also important. increase feelings of disaffection and fuel the a substantial Roman Catholic population,
children must be sent to schools far away, One of the key obstacles to the AIDS outreach flames of abuse. And although the govern- mainly in the central and northern areas.
where they board in hostels. programme was convincing men with local ment passed one of the most comprehensive Most non-Christian Namibians – mainly
rape acts in the world in the same year, it Himba, San and some Herero – live in the
remains to be seen how effectively the laws north and continue to follow animist tradi-
MOVERS & SHAKERS: SAMUEL NUJOMA are enforced. tions. In general, their beliefs are characterised
Samuel Daniel Shafiishuna Nujoma was born on 12 May 1929 in the small village of Ongandjera in by ancestor-veneration, and most practitioners
Owambo. His first rise to power was in the 1950s when he assumed control of the Owamboland Population believe that deceased ancestors continue to
People’s Organisation (OPO), which aimed to end the South African occupation of Southwest Af- Namibia’s population in 2006 was estimated to interact with the living and serve as messen-
rica, and to resist the implementation of apartheid. In 1960, OPO developed into the South West be 2.04 million. This figure takes into account gers between their descendants and the gods.
African People’s Organisation (Swapo), and began its multidecade campaign of guerrilla warfare the effects of excess mortality due to AIDS,
under the helm of Nujoma and other Namibia patriots. During the struggle, Nujoma took the which became the leading cause of death in ARTS & CRAFTS
combat name ‘Shafiishuna’, which means lightning in the Owambo language. Namibia in 1996. With approximately two Namibia is still in the process of developing a
Following independence, Nujoma was unanimously declared president after Swapo’s victory in a people per square kilometre Namibia has one literary tradition, but its musical, visual and
UN-supervised election in 1989, and was sworn in by UN Secretary-General Javier Pérez de Cuéllar of Africa’s lowest population densities, with architectural arts are fairly well established.
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
on 21 March 1990. Nujom was re-elected in 1994 and in 1999 after changing the constitution of an annual population growth rate of over 2.3% The country also enjoys a wealth of amateur
Namibia to allow a third five-year term. In 2005, he stepped down despite having an approval according to the World Health Organization talent in the production of material arts, in-
rating of over 75%, and hand-picked his successor, the current Namibian president Hifikepunye (WHO) in 2006. cluding carvings, basketware and tapestry,
Pohamba. Nujoma has stepped out of the limelight, and is studying geology at the University The population of Namibia comprises 11 along with simple but resourcefully designed
of Windhoek in the hopes of improving Namibia’s lucrative mining sector. major ethnic groups. The majority of people and produced toys, clothing and household
come from the Owambo tribe (50%), with the implements.
 312 N A M I B I A • • E n v i r o n m e n t lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N A M I B I A • • E n v i r o n m e n t 313

Music they hunt. The Himba ondjongo dance is per- floral oddities include the kokerboom (quiver per person and per vehicle, payable when you
Namibia’s earliest musicians were the San, formed only by cattle owners, who dance to tree; see the boxed text, p378), which is a enter the park.
whose music probably emulated the sounds demonstrate the care and ownership of their species of aloe, and the bizarre Welwitschia Prebooking is always advised for national
made by their animal neighbours and was animals. Herero dances feature the outjina mirabilis (the welwitschia plant). Along the parks. While you may be able to pick up
sung to accompany dances and storytelling. for women and otjipirangi for men, in which coastal plain around Swakopmund lie the accommodation at the last minute by just
The early Nama, who had a more developed dancers strap planks to one foot in order to world’s most extensive and diverse lichen turning up at the park gates, it isn’t recom-
musical technique, used drums, flutes and deliver a hollow, rhythmic percussion. In the fields; in dry weather, they appear to be merely mended (especially for Etosha and Sesriem).
basic stringed instruments, also to accom- Kavango and Caprivi regions, traditional plant skeletons, but with the addition of water Note that pets aren’t permitted in any wildlife-
pany dances. Some of these techniques were dancing involves rhythmic and exaggerated they burst into colourful bloom. oriented park.
later adapted by Bantu peoples, who added stamping and gyrating, accompanied by re-
marimbas, gourd rattles and animal-horn petitive chanting and a pervasive drumbeat. National Parks Environmental Issues
trumpets to the range. A prominent Euro- Despite its harsh climate, Namibia has some With a small human population spread over a
pean contribution to Namibian music is the ENVIRONMENT of the world’s grandest national parks, rang- large land area, Namibia is in better environ-
choir; the German colonists also introduced The Land ing from the world-famous wildlife-oriented mental shape than most African countries, but
their traditional ‘oom-pah-pah’ bands, which The Namib is one of the oldest and driest Etosha National Park to the immense Namib- challenges remain. The Ministry of Environ-
feature mainly at German festivals. deserts in the world, and is the result of Ben- Naukluft Park, which protects vast dunefields, ment & Tourism (MET) is largely a holdover
For more information on music in South- guela Current sweeping north from Antarc- desert plains, wild mountains and unique from pre-independence days and its policies
ern Africa, see p52. tica, which captures and condenses humid flora. There are also the smaller reserves of strongly reflect those of its South African
air that would otherwise be blown ashore. the Caprivi region, the renowned Skeleton counterpart. Although changes are afoot, at
Architecture Its western strip is a sea of sand comprised Coast Park and the awe-inspiring Fish River the time of research the country still lacked
The most obvious architectural contribution mainly of apricot-coloured dunes interspersed Canyon, which ranks among Africa’s most coherent environmental guidelines.
in Namibia was made by the German colo- with dry pans, of which Sossusvlei is the best spectacular sights. While local people are increasingly seeing
nists, who attempted to re-create late 19th- known. In fact, the oft-photographed dunes In addition to national parks, Namibia has more benefits from wildlife-oriented tour-
century Germany along the desert coast. In near Sossusvlei, which tower 300m above the a network of conservancies, which are indi- ism, their activities in and around protected
deference to the warmer climate, however, underlying strata, are regarded as among the vidual farms supporting either tourist lodges areas continue to affect local ecosystems.
they added features such as shaded verandas tallest in the world. or hunting opportunities. Examples of these Many ranchers in the south view wildlife as
to provide a cool outdoor living space. The The barren and inhospitable landscapes are the 200,000-hectare Namib-Rand Nature a nuisance, while people in the more densely
best examples can be seen in Lüderitz, Swako- of the Namib are markedly different from Reserve and the 102,000-hectare Gondwana populated north see wildlife reserves as po-
pmund and Windhoek. The most memorable those of the Kalahari. Unlike the Namib, the Cañon Park. tential settlement areas and wildlife itself as
structures were built in Wilhelminischer Stil Sahara and other ‘true’ deserts, the Kalahari Access to most wildlife-oriented parks is a food resource, and a threat to crops and
and Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) styles. is a semi-arid landscape that is covered with limited to enclosed vehicles only; no bicycles human life.
trees and crisscrossed by ephemeral rivers or motorcycles are allowed. For some parks, In the wilder areas of Damaraland and
Painting & Sculpture and fossil watercourses. It is one of the contin- such as Etosha and Namib-Naukluft, a 2WD Kaokoveld, which aren’t officially protected,
Most of Namibia’s renowned modern painters ent’s most prominent geographical features, is sufficient, but you need a 4WD in Mam- the desert lion is now extinct, but small num-
and photographers are of European origin; and stretches across parts of Congo, Angola, ili National Park and the Khaudom Game bers of desert elephants and black rhinos still
they mainly interpret the country’s colourful Zambia, Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe and Reserve. roam freely. Although the white rhino was
landscapes, bewitching light, native wildlife South Africa. Facilities in Namibian national parks are wiped out in Namibia prior to 1900, some
and diverse peoples. Artists include François operated by the semiprivate Namibia Wildlife have now been reintroduced into Waterberg
de Mecker, Axel Eriksson, Fritz Krampe and Wildlife Resorts (NWR; %061-2857000; reservations@mweb.com and Etosha parks and are doing relatively well.
Adolph Jentsch, as well as colonial landscape Etosha, Namibia’s greatest wildlife park, con- .na; Independence Ave, Windhoek; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri). Namibia was a pioneer in using dehorning
artists Carl Ossman and Ernst Vollbehr. Non- tains a variety of antelope species, as well When booking park camp sites or accom- to protect its rhino, but happily, recent de-
European rural Namibians, on the other hand, as other African ungulates, carnivores and modation by post, phone, fax or email, in- clines in the international market for rhino
have generally concentrated on wood and pachyderms. Damaraland, in the northwest, clude your passport number; the number of horn have made such measures less relevant
stone sculpture. Township art, which develops is home to antelopes and other ungulates, people in your group (including the ages of than in the past. The nongovernmental Save
sober themes in an expressive, colourful and and also harbours desert rhinos, elephants any children); your full address, telephone/ the Rhino Trust (%064-403829; www.rhino-trust.org
generally light-hearted manner, first appeared and other species that have specially adapted fax number or email address; the type of ac- .na) and the Desert Research Foundation of Namibia
in the townships of South Africa during the to the arid climate. Hikers in the Naukluft commodation required; and dates of arrival (%061-229855; drfn@drfn.org.na) both promote con-
apartheid years. Names to watch out for in- Massif may catch sight of the elusive Hart- and departure (including alternative dates). servation education.
clude Tembo Masala and Joseph Madisia, mann’s mountain zebra, and along the desert Bookings may be made up to 12 months in Although Namibia’s lion population fluc-
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NAMIBIA
among others. coast live jackass penguins, flamingoes, Cape advance. Fees must be paid by bank transfer tuates greatly from season to season, the lions
fur seals and the rare strandwulf (brown or credit card before the bookings will be in Etosha National Park are free of both feline
Dance hyena). confirmed. Note that camping fees are good immunodeficiency virus (a feline form of
Each Namibian group has its own dances, As Namibia is mostly arid, its typical veg- for up to four people; each additional person HIV) and canine distemper virus (which has
but common threads run through most of etation features mainly scrubby bushveld and up to eight people will be charged extra. In killed 30% of the lions in some Tanzanian
them. San dancing tends to mimic the animals succulents such as Euphorbia. Some unique addition, parks charge a daily admission fee parks).
 314 W I N D H O E K lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com W I N D H O E K • • H i s t o r y 315

Other major environmental issues involve lager-style beer, but the brewery also pro- HISTORY Medical Services
projects designed to provide water and power duces Tafel Lager, the stronger and more bit- Windhoek has only existed for just over a Rhino Park Private Hospital (Map p316; %225434;
resources for the country’s growing industrial ter Windhoek Export and the slightly rough century. The modern name Windhoek, or Sauer St) Provides excellent care and service, but patients
and human needs. It appears that the Kunene Windhoek Special. Windhoek Light (a tasty ‘windy corner’, was corrupted from the origi- must pay up-front.
River dam project has now been shelved, but beer with just 2% alcohol) and the similarly nal ‘Winterhoek’ during the German colo- Windhoek State Hospital (Map p316; %303 9111)
Namibia continues to examine the possibili- light Das Pilsner are both drunk as soft drinks. nial occupation. At that time, it became the An option for those who are short of cash but have time to
ties of bringing water to populated areas from The same brewery also produces a 7% stout headquarters for the German Schutztruppe, wait; the hospital is located off Harvey Rd.
the country’s five perennial rivers. known as Urbock. which was ostensibly charged with broker-
See p26 for information on travelling re- Namibia Breweries’ main competitor is ing peace between the warring Herero and Money
sponsibly in Southern Africa. Hansa, in Swakopmund, which produces Nama. For over 10 years around the turn of Major banks and bureaux de change are con-
both standard and export-strength beer. the 20th century, Windhoek served as the centrated around Independence Ave, and all
FOOD & DRINK South African beers such as Lion, Castle and administrative capital of German South- will change foreign currency and travellers
Food Black Label are widely available and you’ll West Africa. cheques and give credit-card advances. First
Outside Windhoek and Swakopmund, you’ll also find a range of refreshing spirit coolers National Bank’s BOB and other ATM systems
find few gourmet pretences. Most hotels serve and typically excellent and great-value South ORIENTATION handle Visa, MasterCard and home ATM
three meals, but menus are usually meat- African wines. The best place to buy beer, Central Windhoek is bisected by Independ- transactions.
oriented and are rarely very creative. For a wine or spirits is a drankwinkel (bottle store), ence Ave, where most shopping and admin-
treat, try one of the German-style konditorei but small convenience shops may also sell istrative functions are concentrated. The Post & Telephone
(pastry shops) in Windhoek or Swakopmund, beer and coolers. shopping district is focused on the pedestri- The modern main post office on Independ-
or one of the pleasant cafés that exist in most In the rural areas – especially the Owambo anised Post St Mall and the nearby Gustav ence Ave (Map p318) can readily handle over-
towns. regions – people socialise in tiny makeshift Voigts Centre, Wernhill Park Centre and seas post. It also has telephone boxes in the
Small hotels normally provide a cooked bars, enjoying such traditional local brews as Levinson Arcade. Zoo Park, beside the main lobby, and next door is the Telecommunica-
breakfast with cereal and toast, and big hotels oshikundu (millet beer), mataku (watermelon post office, provides a green lawn and shady tions Office, where you can make interna-
may include a buffet breakfast. In addition wine), tambo (fermented millet and sugar), lunch spots. tional calls and send or receive faxes.
to bread, cereals, fruit, yogurt and cold meat, mushokolo (a beer made from small seeds),
they may offer kippers (smoked kingclip) and walende, which is distilled from the maka- Maps Tourist Information
and mielie meal (porridge, also called pap). lani palm and tastes similar to vodka. Apart Free city maps are available from the tourist Namibia Tourism (Map p318; %220640, 284 2360;
Cooked breakfasts always include eggs, bacon from walende, all of these rural confections office on Post St Mall. You can buy topo- www.namibiatourism.com.au; Independence Ave, Private
and boerewors (farmers’ sausages), as well as are brewed in the morning and drunk the graphic sheets (US$3 for maps and US$2.50 Bag 13346) The national tourist office; can provide infor-
steaks and often even curried kidneys. same day, and they’re all dirt cheap – around for photocopies) for much of Namibia from mation from all over the country.
For lunch, many people go for takeaway US$0.20 per glass. the office of the Surveyor General (%245055; fax Namibia Wildlife Resorts (NWR; Map p318; %285
snacks, which may include fish and chips, 290 2050; cnr Robert Mugabe Ave & Lazarett St). 7000; reservations@mweb.com.na; cnr John Meinert &
meat pies and sandwiches in brötchen (little
bread rolls). Evening meals normally feature
meat, and restaurants serve typically high-
WINDHOEK INFORMATION
Bookshops
Moltke Sts) In the Oode Voorpost. Books national park
accommodation and hikes.
Windhoek Information & Publicity Office (Map
quality cuts. Fish (normally kingclip) is best %061 / pop 240,000 Windhoek Book Den (Map p318; %239976; p318; %290 2058; fax 290 2050; Post St Mall) This
eaten in Swakopmund or Lüderitz, where it’s Namibia’s Central Highlands are dominated wbd@mweb.com.na) Just off Post St Mall, the best place friendly office answers questions and distributes local
probably fresh. Chicken is often prepared with by its small, German-influenced capital, to look for novels, European and African literature, and publications including What’s On in Windhoek.
a fiery piri-piri sauce. Windhoek, which serves as the country’s geo- travel books.
graphical heart and commercial nerve centre. Travel Agencies
Drinks Set among low hills at an elevation of 1660m, Emergency Cardboard Box Travel Shop (Map p318; %256580)
NONALCOHOLIC DRINKS the capital city enjoys dry, clean air, a healthy Ambulance & Fire Brigade (%211111) Attached to the backpackers’ hostel of the same name, this
Tap water is generally safe to drink, but in highland climate and an optimistic outlook Crime report (%290 2239) 24-hour phone service. recommended travel agency can arrange both budget and
some locations it may be salty or otherwise that sets an example for all of Africa. Police (%228328) upmarket bookings all over the country.
unappealing, especially in desert areas and Windhoek’s population reflects the coun- Police – national (%10111)
around Windhoek and Etosha. Packaged fruit try’s ethnic mix: on the city streets, you will DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
juices provide an alternative. Every café and see Owambo, Kavango, Herero, Damara and Internet Access Windhoek is generally safe by day, but avoid
takeaway serves coffee and tea, as well as Caprivian peoples, together with Nama, San, Most backpackers’ hostels also offer internet going out alone at night, and be wary of news-
the strong herbal tea known as rooibos (red coloureds and Europeans, all contributing and email services. You can also try Club Inter- paper sellers, who may shove the paper in your
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
bush). to the hustle and bustle – but only during net (Map p318; Bülow St; per hr US$3; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, face as a distracting ruse. Don’t use bum bags
working hours. While Windhoek provides 9am-2pm Sat), near John Meinert St. or carry swanky camera or video totes, and
ALCOHOLIC DRINKS about as much action as Namibia has to never leave anything of value visible in a vehi-
Namibia’s dry heat means big sales for Na- offer, ‘vibrant’ probably isn’t the best word Laundry cle. Parts of Katutura and other northwestern
mibia Breweries. The most popular drop to describe its surprisingly staid and orderly Tauben Glen Laundrette (Map p316; %252115) At suburbs, where boredom and unemployment
is Windhoek Lager, a light and refreshing capital city. Village Sq. are rife, should be avoided unless you have
 316 W I N D H O E K lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com W I N D H O E K • • S i g h t s & A c t i v i t i e s 317

WINDHOEK 0
0
1 km
0.5 miles
a local contact and/or a specific reason to the administrative headquarters for German
Goreseb St
go there. South-West Africa. The name, ‘ink palace’,
A B C D honours the ink spent on the typically bu-
To Soweto
Market (500m)
17 To Nakara (300m);
Penduka (10km);
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES reaucratic paperwork it generated. It has also
Katutura
Kem
be
Okahandja (71km);
Swakopmund
Hofmeyer Walk served as the nerve centre for all subsequent
1 Ind (351km) This walking track (Map p316) through Klein governments, including the present one. On
rip

ep
at

en
a
bb

Bypass
de
nc Windhoek Valley starts from either Sinclair the lawn is Windhoek’s first post-independence
Sa

e
Av
Mungunda
e Some Minor St or Uhland St and heads south through the monument, which depicts Herero chief Hosea

rn
Streets Not Depicted
bushland to finish at the point where Orban St Kutako, known for his vociferous opposi-

ste
We
becomes Anderson St. It takes about an hour tion to South African rule. On weekdays –
Rand and affords a panoramic view over the city, except when the assembly is in session – you
as well as a look at the Aloe littoralis aloes, can reserve a place on a 45-minute tour by
Northern which characterise the hillside vegetation. calling %288 5111.
Mercedes Industrial
Rand

Zw Area Hikers have recently been robbed along this

Sterl

art

Klein
2 Heliodoor St
Gladiola
s
route, so don’t go alone and avoid carrying Other Historic Buildings
ing

n Ho s
Pieterso Eros Park
valuables. Near the corner of Lüderitz and Park Streets,

W
in
e
a
ho

Om
d
B1 ek
Ku

Khomasdal take a look at the Old Magistrates’ Court (Map

Sa

ur
Riv
ta
ue

am
ko

Aus er
Christuskirche
r

war
p318). It was built from 1897 to 1898 as
s

ba
er

Eros
Dr

ts
pp

Bach

12 15

Pr
lo

5 25 One of Windhoek’s most recognisable land- quarters for Carl Ludwig, the state architect,

om
K
rew

Nelson

en
ad
Oolevaa en Ma marks, the 1907 Christuskirche (Map p318) and now houses the Namibia Conservatorium.
And

r nd
Windhoek stands at the top of Fidel Castro St. This un- Down Park St towards Robert Mugabe Ave

ela
4 11

Av
West 10 cher usual building, constructed of local sand- lies South-West Africa House, now called

e
8 enbre
Rd

Eck
Von
3
1
stone, was designed by Gottlieb Redecker in the State House (Map p318). The site was once
y

St je
ve

Windhoek
3 Met
neogothic and Art Nouveau styles. To see the graced by the residence of the German colo-
r
Ha

Train Station
r
Sinclai

Ludwigsdorf
Best

Ne
interior, pick up the key during business hours nial governor, but it was razed in 1958 and
ss

Ave

Hip
pa

lso
Uh
po An
Scho
r
oi D

St

cra
By

de

nM
John Meinert St from the church office on Fidel Castro St. replaced by the present building. After inde-
lan e
tes rso
nlein

Ho
ern

itbo

nS
d yer Wal
fm

an
Independence

t
pendence, it became the official residence of
est

de
Hendrik W

St

la
W

9
Alte Feste & the Owela Museum the Namibian president.
Av
Ba
ch

e
St
The whitewashed ramparts of the Alte Feste Robert Mugabe Ave affords good city views
k

To Daan
Sam astro St
Viljoen Fidel C Klein
Game Park
(20km)
Nu
jom
aD
Windhoek 13
(National Museum of Namibia; Map p318), and colonial architecture. The Kaiserliche Reals-
Dr 16 18
r
C28 Sam N
ujoma Hügel St Ste
in S
t
Windhoek’s oldest surviving building, dates chule (Map p318), Windhoek’s first German
B6
2
14 back to 1890–92. It originally served as the primary school, dates back to 1907–08. The
4 Hochland To Chief Hosea Kutako
Park International Airport headquarters of the Schutztruppe, which ar- curious turret with wooden slats, which was
(42km); Gobabis (205km)
rived in 1889, but now houses the Historical part of the original building, was designed
Section of the State Museum (Map p318; %293 to provide ventilation. The Old Supreme Court
St

Fe Aigams
er

Gammams ld Train
4437; Robert Mugabe Ave; admission by donation; h9am-
nk

tt (Map p318; Obergericht; cnr Korner St & Robert Mugabe Ave)

Jo

Train Station
Rd a re 24
n

d Station 21 6
hlan az 6pm Mon-Fri, 3-6pm Sat & Sun). The other half of the is a gabled brick structure which dates back
Ja

Hoc L
To Windhoek
Country Club Resort
7
19
22
State Museum, known as the Owela Museum to 1908.
& Casino (2km)
See Central Windhoek Map (p318) (Map p318; %293 4358; 4 Lüderitz St; admission US$1.20; Further south is the Turnhalle (Map p318; cnr
h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 3-6pm Sat & Sun), features ex-
Rob

INFORMATION
23
Bahnhof St & Robert Mugabe Ave), designed by Otto
ert

Botswana High Commission.........1 D3

Diaz hibits that focus on Namibia’s natural and Busch and built in 1909 as a gymnasium. On
Mu

Hidas Centre................................2 D4 e
5 Krupp St bi
Hendrik

Ba anthropological history. 1 September 1975, the first Constitutional

gab

Malawi Embassy...........................3 B3
Suiderhof
NACOBTA...................................4 C3 DRINKING
eA

Conference on Independence for Southwest

Ave

Rhino Park Private Hospital..........5 C2Pioneer

Club Thriller............................ 17e B1
dum
ve

Park
Witboo

yo D4
National Art Gallery Africa (subsequently known as the Turnhalle
em an

fa18
Pa

South African High Commission.. 6 D4 Funky Lab..............................

rsi
Nd M
u
va

Tauben Glen Laundrette..............7 B5 La Dee Da's...........................19 C5 Laurent Kabila

This gallery (Map p318; %/fax 240930; cnr Robert Mu- Conference) was held here. In the 1980s it
l
i Dr

Windhoek State Hospital..............8 B3 Plaza....................................(see 22)

gabe Ave & John Meinert St; admission free; h9am-5pm hosted political summits and debates, which
SLEEPING ENTERTAINMENT
Mon-Fri, 9-11am Sat) contains a permanent col- later resulted in Namibian independence.
Aua

Haus Ol-Ga..................................9 B3 Ster Kinekor.........................(see 22)

Ma
s Rd

Hilltop House.............................10 C3 lection of works that reflects Namibia’s his- The classic 1902 Oode Voorpost (Map p318; cnr
lcolm

Roof of Africa Backpackers........11 D3 SHOPPING 20

Camping Hire Namibia.......... 20 D6 torical and natural scene. It also hosts visiting John Meinert & Moltke Sts) originally held the col-
Spe
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
EATING Cape Union Mart.................(see 22)
exhibitions. onial surveyors’ offices, where government
nce

Art Café...................................(see 22) Gräber's.................................21 C4

Esth

St

6 Joe's Beer House........................12 C2 Maerua Park Centre.............. 22 D5 maps were stored in fireproof archives. It was
er B

Luigi & the Fish..........................13 D4 Safari Den..............................23 C5

Tintenpalast restored in 1988 and now houses a portion of
ran

Mini-Markt................................ 14 D4
d St

O Portuga..................................15 C2 TRANSPORT
To Eros Airport (100m);
Now the Parliament building, the Tinten- the Ministry of Finance.
OK Supermarket........................(see 2) Intercape Mainliner Office.....24 C4
Yang Tse................................... 16 D4 Minibus Terminal...................25 C2
Independence Stadium
(2km); Rehoboth (82km)
palast (Map p318) was designed by architect Southward along Independence Ave are
Gottlieb Redecker and built in 1912–13 as three colonial buildings designed by architect
 318 W I N D H O E K • • C e n t r a l W i n d h o e k lonelyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com W I N D H O E K • • Fe s t i v a l s & E v e n t s 319

CENTRAL WINDHOEK 0
0
300 m
0.2 miles
Willi Sander. The southernmost building was teor shower, which deposited at least 21 tonnes
4 built in 1902 as the Kronprinz Hotel. In 1920, of mostly ferrous extraterrestrial boulders
A B C D Heinrich Gathemann bought it and converted around Gibeon in southern Namibia.

en
nz
ha
y
Uh it into a private business, to adjoin Gathemann
e
Lister

Sc
rv Ellis lan

Goethe St
18

Independence
Ha
50
dS
House (Map p318) next door, which he had Katutura

Osler
Ro t

O
46

Johann Albrecht St
be

ss
1 t built in 1913. The northernmost building is The lively black township of Katutura (Map

m
rt Kor ner S

an
Koch Pettenkofer 26 6
31

t
the Erkrath building, which dates from 1910. p316) is relatively safe by day if you stick to

nS

ud
Windhoek

hij

Ave

ir
Fre
Ross Train Station
the northern areas or find a local who can

nR
en

Sincla
Pavlov anz

Hosea Kutako Dr

ὈὈ
Sch

Robert Mugab
Va
Paste
ur
Schweitzer
33
Hofmeyer
Train Station & Trans-Namib Transport act as a guide. If you want to visit, Outside

Freud
Werth
Museum Adventures (p398) runs day trips, guided by

Walk
Bahnhof St St

t
eS
Pasteur 32
49
Windhoek’s Cape Dutch–style train station a Katutura resident. A taxi from Windhoek
Beeth

Salk

ltk
2
Da

Mo

e Ave
ve Adler
yS 57
dates from 1912, and near the entrance sits centre to Katutura costs US$1.
Sch

27
oven

t
John Meinert St
onle

24
the German steam locomotive Poor Old Joe,

Lü

Lo
34
Ros

Simpson

Stübel St
Bülo

ve
de
in

3
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Mandume
shipped to Swakopmund in 1899 and reas-
sini

St
ritz
e An
Curi 52
wS

n 43 de

ὈὈ
tge 41 42 rso
S

S
2 n 10
sembled for the run to Windhoek. The small Windhoek’s annual cultural bash is Septem-
t

t
Roe n
t

Verdi St 48 9 28
t Kasino St va
rt S 37 a
but worthwhile Trans-Namib Transport Museum ber’s /Ae//Gams Festival, which replaces the
ine s rg um
n Me Brahm be an
Joh s Ro Daniel M (Map p318; %298 2186; admission US$0.70; h8am-1pm former Mbapira/Enjando Street Festival; it
aus Bülow St 58 7
Str
36 ner St 16 21
& 2-5pm Mon-Fri), upstairs in the station, gives the features colourful gatherings of dancers, musi-
Ndem

g 59 13 25 29
Wa Post St Mall
history of Namibian transport, particularly cians and people in ethnic dress. True to its
Gl

Storch
uc

Park St
ufay

s 11
k

Ba hm Zoo
Vo ch Bra 15
30
railroads. partially Teutonic background, Windhoek
o Av

lan 55 5 Park
s 20
rieg St also stages its own Oktoberfest in late October.
We

G t
er Castro 39
e

Indep
Bism

Rev Scott
ub th
a Fidel
cke

Sc Bo 54 60 19 Post St Mall & Meteorite Exhibit Similarly, the German-style Windhoek Karnival
arck

40
art i St
enden
St
m

23
oz uis cin The busy heart of the Windhoek shopping (or WIKA) is held in late April and features
M

Bloh

M Lo Puc 56
ah

Sam 38
St
ler

ce Ave

3
r

Nujo ma Dr r
district is the bizarrely colourful Post St Mall, a week of events.
uste

D
ko
Bach

8
Sch

ta
Ku 17 r Hüg and its odd architecture that could have been
er Chopin a ma D el
San
dpip
Ho
se Ho
Sam
Nujo Sam St To Chief
part of the film Dick Tracy. It’s lined with ven- SLEEPING
Edelvalk

oge Nujo Hosea Kutako

Tal

Viljo nho ma International

en ut Dr Airport (42km) dors selling curios, artwork, clothing and other Budget
St

n Garten St 45 er
Eule Pur Schw insb
sell 53 urg
St tourist items, and in the centre is a prominent Puccini House (Map p318; %236355; puccinis@mweb
ht
St

display of 33 meteorites from the Gibeon me-

Voig

.com.na; 4 Puccini St; camping per person US$3, dm US$6,

Sch

Chu
rch 47
by

35 alk
me

Lisz
Ker

K
Mand ume Ndem

t Church
ren

Ne

Ausspann- St
Ro

rg
Trift
bec

zb u
se

platz
be

To Gammams init
r
arck

14
KATUTURA – A PERMANENT PLACE?
k

He 22
rt M

Nac
nsky

Train Station (400m) htig Shinz St 12

Bism

al
bothe

ug
Jan
Mere

4
t

44
tS

INFORMATION In 1912, during the days of the South African mandate – and apartheid – the Windhoek Town
ab

Chate

51
Jon

ret

eA

Burg

Angolan Embassy.......................... 1 C4
Reho

Fe
ufay

za
ke

Council set aside two ‘locations’, which were open to settlement by black Africans who were
ve
ld

au

British High Commission.................2 C2

La
rS

1
St
o

Cardboard Box Travel Shop........(see 34) working in the city: the Main Location, which was west of the centre, and Klein Windhoek, to the
Ave

Rd
Chameleon Safaris.....................(see 35) Hochland
Club Internet..................................3 B2 east. The following year, people were forcibly relocated to these areas, which effectively became
n

French Embassy..............................4 C1 Old Supreme Court (Obergericht)....26 C1 King Pies..................................45 C3

to

communal areas of haphazard settlement. In the early 1930s, however, streets were laid out in
w

German Embassy...........................5 C3 Oode Voorpost................................ 27 C2 King Pies................................(see 58)

Ne
ts

Bell
g

Kenyan Embassy.............................6 iC1 Owela Museum...............................28 i Fe 46 C1

C2 La Marmite............................... the Main Location and the area was divided into regions set aside for each ethnic group. Each
Voil

n llile ld
Gammams
Main Post Office............................ co
ar7 C2 State House (South-West Africa Ga
Pick & Pay.............................(see 59)
Train Station
Malawian Embassy......................... M 8 B3 PlanckHouse).........................................29 C2 Sardinia's.................................47 C4
subdivision within these regions was referred to by the name of its assigned ethnic group (eg
Ministry of Home Affairs................9 C2 State Museum................................(see 28) Shoprite Supermarket..............48 C2 Herero, Nama, Owambo, Damara), followed by a soulless numerical reference.
St
Namibia Tourism..........................10 C2 Tintenpalast..................................... 30 D3 ySteenbras................................. 49 C2
rr In the 1950s, the Windhoek municipal council – with encouragement from the South African
Pa

Namibia Wildlife Resorts..............11 C3 Trans-Namib Transport Museum......31 B1Fe

tte

5 Office of the Surveyor General.... 12 D4 Turnhalle..........................................32 C2 DRINKING government (which regarded Namibia as a province of South Africa) – decided to ‘take back’
rso
nS

Telecommunications Office..........13 C2 Worth Lookout & Villas....................33 D1 Chez Ntemba...........................50 C1

Klein Windhoek and consolidate all ‘location’ residents into a single settlement northwest of
t

US Embassy.................................14 C4 Jass Bar.................................... 51 C4

Windhoek Book Den....................15 C3 SLEEPING the main city. However, there was strong opposition to the move, and in early December 1959,
Windhoek Information & Publicity Cardboard Box Backpackers..............34 B2 ENTERTAINMENT
Office......................................16 C2 Chameleon City Lodge.....................35 C4 National Theatre of Namibia....52 C2 a group of Herero women launched a protest march and boycott against the city government.
Zambian Embassy........................17 C3 Chameleon Guesthouse...................36 A2 Warehouse Theatre.................53 C3 On 10 December, unrest escalated into a confrontation with the police, resulting in 11 deaths
Zimbabwean Embassy..................18 C1 Hotel Heinitzburg...........................(see 22) Windhoek Conservatorium......54 C3
Hotel-Pension Handke......................37 B2 and 44 serious injuries. Frightened, the roughly 4000 residents of the Main Location submitted
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Hotel-Pension Steiner.......................38 B3 SHOPPING and moved to the new settlement, ultimately named ‘Katutura’, which is Herero for ‘we have no
Alte Feste (National Museum of Kalahari Sands Hotel & Casino.........39 C3 Cymot Greensport...................55 C3
Namibia)..................................19 D3 Puccini House...................................40 B3 Gustav Voigts Centre...............56 C3 permanent place’ – but it can also be translated as ‘the place we do not want to settle’.
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
Christuskirche..............................20 C3 Rivendell Guest House......................41 A2 House of Gems........................57 C2
Erkrath Building..........................(see 21) Tramper's Haven..............................42 B2 Levinson Arcade.......................58 C2
In modern, independent Namibia, Katutura is a vibrant Windhoek suburb – Namibia’s Soweto –
6 Gathemann's House.....................21 C2 Villa Verdi.........................................43 B2 Namibia Crafts Centre............(see 53) where poverty and affluence brush elbows. Sadly and inexplicably, Katutura’s once-lovely inde-
Heinitzburg Castle....................... 22 D4 Wernhill Park Centre................59 B2
Kaiserliche Realschule...................23 C3 EATING
pendence murals along Independence Ave have been removed, but the town council has now
Namibia Conservatorium............(see 25) Checkers Supermarket....................(see 56) TRANSPORT extended municipal water, power and telephone services to most areas of Katutura and has also
National Art Gallery......................24 C2 Gathemann's.................................(see 21) Main Bus Terminal...................60 C3
Old Magistrates' Court................25 C2 Homestead.......................................44 C4 Taxi Stand.............................(see 59) established the colourful and perpetually busy Soweto Market.
 320 W I N D H O E K • • S l e e p i n g Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com W I N D H O E K • • E a t i n g 321

s/d 10/18; pis) The closest backpacker the property feel distinctly upmarket, though EATING Homestead (Map p318; %221958; 53 Feld St; meals
option to the city centre is located near the guests remain laid-back travellers looking Budget US$8-15) Arguably Windhoek’s best restaurant,
Wernhill Park Centre, and is characterised by for a quiet retreat from the city. Amenities King Pies (Map p318; %248978, Levinson Arcade; pies it features a range of starters, salads, pasta,
its relaxed atmosphere and friendly staff. include a communal kitchen, swimming pool, US$1-2) If you’re looking for a quick bite, this vegetarian dishes, fresh fish, beef and chicken
oCardboard Box Backpackers (Map p318; internet, TV lounge and a swish bar. popular Namibian institution serves up a var- dishes, as well as oryx, crocodile, fondues and
%228994; www.namibian.org; 15 Johann Albrecht St; camp- Haus Ol-Ga (Map p316; %235853; 91 Bach St; s/d iety of filled meat and vegetable pies. a hunters’ grill featuring zebra.
ing per site US$4, dm US$6, d US$18; pis) This US$25/35; p) This German-oriented place is Steenbras (Map p318; %231445; Bahnhof St; light meals
lively, colourful and perennial shoestring- named after the owners, Gesa Oldach and US$2-4) Near Independence Ave, this is one of Self-Catering
ers’ favourite is conveniently located just 15 Erno Gauerke. The establishment enjoys a Windhoek’s best takeaways, serving memora- The big names are Pick & Pay in the Wern-
minutes by foot from the city centre. ‘The nice, quiet garden atmosphere in Windhoek ble fish, chicken burgers and spicy chips. hill Park Centre and Checkers in the Gustav
Box’ runs an excellent travel centre that gives West. Sardinia’s (Map p318; %225600; 39 Independence Ave; Voigts Centre. The cheapest supermarket is
unbiased information about Namibian tour Hotel-Pension Handke (Map p318; %234904; dishes US$2-5) This rather loud and boisterous the crowded Shoprite on lower Independence
operators, and can help sort out all your future pensionhandke@iafrica.com.na; 3 Rossini St; s/d US$40/60; place is good for pizza and standard Italian Ave. The Mini-Markt in Klein Windhoek is
travel plans. Backpacker amenities include p) Run by a caring mother-and-son duo, fare, as well as great coffee and gelato. larger than it sounds and is open from 7am to
use of the cooking facilities and access to this homely option in Windhoek West is more Art Café (Map p316; %255020; Maerua Park Centre; midnight daily. The well-stocked OK super-
the swimming pool and the lively bar and reminiscent of staying with family friends US$2-5) This fashionable spot specialises in market at Hidas Centre is the best place for
restaurant. than it is a guesthouse. breakfast, sweet and savoury crepes and light foreign and ethnic ingredients.
Chameleon City Lodge (Map p318; %244347; www Hotel-Pension Steiner (Map p318; %222898; stein lunches – with excellent results.
.chameleonbackpackers.com; 5 Voight St; camping per site er@iafrica.com.na; 11 Wecke St; s/d from US$45/70; ps) Yang Tse (Map p316; %234779; /Ae//Gams Shopping DRINKING
US$4, dm US$6, d from US$18; pis) This well- This recently renovated hotel features well- Centre, 351 Sam Nujoma Dr; mains US$3-6) This locally Chez Ntemba (Map p318; 154 Uhland St; admission Thu &
matched rival to the Cardboard Box is also equipped rooms with modern amenities popular cheap Chinese joint is a good choice, Sun US$1.25, Wed, Fri & Sat US$3.50; h9pm-5am Wed-Sun)
extremely convenient to the city centre, and that overlook a thatched bar and swimming especially if you’re just coming back from (or Music from across the continent is played
boasts an inviting atmosphere, immaculate pool. heading out to) a long stint of bush cooking. here – Angolan, Zambian, Congolese and
facilities, comfy couches for lounging and a Villa Verdi (Map p318; %221994; villav@mweb.com.na; South African tunes all in the same night.
professional and well-informed staff. 4 Verdi St; s/d US$70/115; pais) This utterly Midrange & Top End Club Thriller (Map p318; Samuel Shikongo St, Katutura;
Tramper’s Haven (Map p318; %223669; 78 Bülow St; unique Mediterranean–African hybrid fea- O Portuga (Map p316; %272900, 151 Nelson Mandela Ave; admission US$3) Lies in a rough area, but beyond
dm US$10, s/d US$15/20; p) A sparkling, Christian- tures whimsically decorated rooms complete mains US$4-8) The best place in town for genuine the weapons search at the door, the music
oriented backpackers’ lodge that has kitchen with original paintings and artsy finishing. Portuguese and Angolan dishes, including is Western and African and the atmosphere
facilities and plenty of showers. Amenities include a pool, a dining room and numerous seafood options. There is also a upbeat and relatively secure.
Chameleon Guesthouse (Map p318;%247668; www a conference centre where you can send faxes good selection of wines. Funky Lab (Map p316; /Ae//Gams Centre; h4pm-late
.chameleonbackpackers.com; 22 Wagner St; d incl breakfast & and emails. Joe’s Beer House (Map p316; %232457, Green Market Sun-Thu, 2pm-late Fri & Sat) This very popular (and
shared bathroom US$20, d incl breakfast $25; pis) Hilltop House (Map p316; %249116; hilltop@iafrica Sq, 160 Nelson Mandela Ave; mains US$4-9; h5pm-late) very blue) club is one of Windhoek’s hottest
Occupying a quiet spot in Windhoek West, .com.na; 12 Lessing St; s/d US$85/135; ps) Featuring Similar to Carnivore’s in Nairobi, Joe’s Beer night-time dancing spots, especially if you’re
the older sister to the Chameleon City Lodge individually decorated rooms, this six-room House is a popular tourist spot where you craving a little disco in your life.
is a budget-oriented guesthouse that is home guesthouse oozes personality. can indulge in a game meat–oriented evening Jass Bar (Map p318; Shinz St 4; h6pm-late Tue-Sat)
to a couple of friendly meerkats. Hotel Heinitzburg (Map p318; %249597; heinitz@ meal – with prolonged drinking until early in This chilled-out club and cigar bar provides
Rivendell Guest House (Map p318; %250006; mweb.con.na; 22 Heinitzburg St; s/d from US$130/200; the morning. a leisurely respite for the more sophisticated
rivendell@toothfairy.com; d/tr US$20/25, self-catering flat pa) Located inside Heinitzburg Castle, Luigi & the Fish (Map p316; %256399; 320 Sam Nujoma crowd.
US$45; ps) Provides quiet, comfortable ac- this is Windhoek’s most royal B&B option, Dr, meals US$4-10) This famous Windhoek restau- La Dee Da’s (Map p316; %0812 434432, Ferry St,
commodation within easy walking distance of and probably one of the best and most person- rant specialises in reasonably priced seafood Southern Industrial Area; admission before/after midnight
the centre – you can choose between doubles able upmarket accommodations. (fish, shellfish, seafood paella, calamari etc) US$2.50/3.50; h10.30pm-4am Thu-Sat) La De Da’s
and self-catering apartments, but all have Windhoek Country Club Resort & Casino (%205 as well as steaks, game, pasta, chicken, Cajun boasts Namibia’s largest national flag; here
use of the swimming pool and communal 5911; www.legacyhotels.co.za; s/d from US$150/165; p dishes and vegetarian cuisine. you can dance to Angolan kizomba, hip-hop,
kitchen. ais) Constructed specifically for the La Marmite (Map p318; %248022; Independence Ave; rave, traditional African, rock and commercial
1995 Miss Universe pageant (Miss Namibia, mains US$7-10; h6-10pm) Here you can sample pop. Near Patterson.
Midrange & Top End Michelle McLean, who now has a street named wonderful North and West African cuisine, Plaza (Map p316; %0812 560780; Maerua Park Centre;
All rates include breakfast. for her, had won the pageant the previous including Algerian, Senegalese, Ivorian, Cam- h5pm-late) This relaxed and pleasant gay-
oRoof of Africa Backpackers (Map p316; year), this place offers a taste of Las Vegas in eroonian and Nigerian dishes. friendly venue is the right choice if you like
%254708; www.roofofafrica.com; 124-126 Nelson Mandela Windhoek. Gathemann’s (Map p318; %223853; 179 Independence to listen to your music at levels below ear-
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
Ave; camping per site US$5, dm US$8, s/d US$35/40, d with air- Kalahari Sands Hotel & Casino (Map p318; %22230; Ave; mains US$7-12) Located in the prominent colo- shattering.
con US$50; pais) This pleasant haven is Gustav Voigts Centre, 129 Independence Ave; s/d from nial building, Gathemann House, overlooking
located about 30 minutes by foot from the city US$150/185; pais) This high-rise hotel Independence Ave, this splash-out spot serves ENTERTAINMENT
centre, and has a rustic barnyard feel complete in the heart of the city primarily appeals to gourmet German and Continental food; it’s a Whether you’re in the mood for a night out at
with a frog pond and goats and ducks in a pen business travellers with its international four- good choice for a gateaux and pastry on the the theatre or a Hollywood screening, Wind-
by the pool. Recent renovations have made star standards. sundeck. hoek has just the ticket for you.
 322 W I N D H O E K • • S h o p p i n g lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com W I N D H O E K • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d 323

National Theatre of Namibia (Map p318; %237 966; GETTING THERE & AWAY seven hours), Oshakati (US$9, 11 hours), Rua- or VIP Shuttle (%0812 563657), which charges
12 John Meinert St, ntn@iafrica.com.na) The national Air cana (US$15, 15 hours), Rundu (US$10.50, US$12 per person for the trip; coming from
theatre stages infrequent theatre presenta- Chief Hosea Kutako International Airport, 10 hours), Divundu (US$12, 12 hours) and the airport, you’ll be able to choose between
tions; for information see the Friday edition which is located 42km east of the city centre, Katima Mulilo (US$14, 15½ hours). several shuttle services. Airport taxis on the
of the Namibian. serves most international flights into and out same trip cost a maximum of US$27.
Ster Kinekor (Map p316; %249267; Maerua Park of Windhoek. Air Namibia operates flights Car & Motorcycle
Centre, off Robert Mugabe Ave) This place shows re- daily between Cape Town and Johannesburg, Windhoek is literally the crossroads of Na- Taxi
cent films and has half-price admission on as well as twice-weekly flights to/from London mibia – the point where the main north–south City buses have been phased out in favour of
Tuesday. and Frankfurt. Several airlines also offer in- route (the B1) and east–west routes (B2 and inexpensive shared taxis and minibuses. Col-
Warehouse Theatre (Map p318; %225059, old South- ternational services to/from Maun, Botswana. B6) cross – and all approaches to the city are lective taxis from the main ranks at Wernhill
West Brewery Bldg, 48 Tal St; admission US$3.50) A delight- and Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. For more in- extremely scenic, passing through beauti- Park Centre follow set routes to Khomasdal
fully integrated club staging live African and formation, see p393. ful desert hills. Roads are clearly signposted and Katutura, and if your destination is along
European music and theatre productions, Eros Airport, immediately south of the and those travelling between northern and the way, you’ll pay less than US$1. With taxis
though unfortunately it’s only open when city centre, serves most domestic flights into southern Namibia can avoid the city centre from the main bus stations or by radio dis-
there’s a scheduled event. and out of Windhoek. Air Namibia offers oc- by taking the Western Bypass. patch, fares are either metered or are calcu-
Windhoek Conservatorium (Map p318; %293 3111; casional flights to/from Katima Mulilo, Lüde- lated on a per-kilometre basis, but you may
Peter Müller St) The conservatorium occasionally ritz, Ondangwa, Rundu, Swakopmund/Walvis Hitching be able to negotiate a set fare per journey.
holds classical concerts. Bay and Tsumeb. Due to its location and traffic, hitching to or Plan on spending US$3 to US$3.50 to any-
Coming from Windhoek, make sure the from Windhoek is easier than anywhere else where around the city centre. Try Crown Radio
SHOPPING taxi driver knows which airport you are going in Namibia. Taxis (%211115, 0811 299116), Express Radio Taxis
Handicrafts to (ie in-town Eros versus the more distant (%239739) or Sunshine Radio Taxis (%221029).
Namibia Crafts Centre (Map p318; %222236; 40 Tal St; international airport). Train
h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) This craft centre Airlines with flights into and out of Wind- The station has a booking office (h7.30am-4pm AROUND WINDHOEK
is an outlet for heaps of wonderful Namibian hoek include the following: Mon-Fri); note that from Monday to Thursday, Daan Viljoen Game Park
inspiration, including leather work, basketry, Air Namibia (code SW; %299 6333; www.airnamibia fares are about 60% of those quoted here, The beautiful Daan Viljoen Game Park (ad-
pottery, jewellery, needlework, hand-painted .com) and that economy-class fares are around mission per person US$2.50, per vehicle US$2.50; hday
textiles and other material arts. Information British Airways (code BA; %248528; www.ba.com) 10% lower. Overnight trains run daily except visitors sunrise-6pm) is situated in the Khomas
about the artist and the origin of each piece Lufthansa Airlines (code LH; %226662; www on Saturday between Windhoek and Keet- Hochland about 18km west of Windhoek. Be-
is documented. .lufthansa.com) manshoop, leaving at 7.10pm/6.30pm south- cause there are no dangerous animals, hikers
House of Gems (Map p318; %225202; scrap@iafrica South African Airways (code SA; %237670; www bound/northbound. Travel times and Friday can wander freely through lovely desertlike
.com.na; 131 Stübel St) This is the most reputable .flysaa.com) to Sunday business-class fares from Windhoek hills and valleys. You’ll almost certainly see
shop in Windhoek for buying raw minerals are: Rehoboth (US$4.30, 2¾ hours), Mari- gemsboks, kudus, mountain zebras, spring-
and gemstones. Bus ental (US$6, six hours) and Keetmanshoop boks, hartebeests, elands and up to 200 bird
Penduka (%257210; penduka@namibnet.com) The From the main bus station, at the corner of (US$7.50, 9½ hours). The Keetmanshoop run species.
names means ‘wake up’. Penduka operates Fidel Castro and Rev Michael Scott Sts, the now offers sleepers on Monday, Wednesday The 3km Wag-’n-Bietjie Trail follows a dry
a nonprofit women’s needlework project at Intercape Mainliner runs on Monday, Wednes- and Friday. riverbed from near the park office to Stengel
Goreangab Dam, northwest of the centre. You day, Friday and Sunday to and from Cape On Sunday, Tuesday and Thursday, the Dam. A 9km circuit, the Rooibos Trail crosses
can purchase needlework, baskets, carvings Town (US$45, 19½ hours) and Johannesburg northern-sector line connects Windhoek hills and ridges and affords great views back
and fabric creations for fair prices and you (US$58, 24½ hours, with a change in Uping- with Tsumeb (US$7, 16 hours) via Okahandja to Windhoek in the distance. The 34km Sweet-
can be assured that all proceeds go to the ton). There are also daily services to Swakop- (US$3, 2½ hours) and Otjiwarongo (US$5.25, Thorn Trail circuits the empty eastern reaches of
producers. To be picked up from town call mund (US$14, 4¼ hours); and Monday and 10½ hours). Other train lines connect Wind- the reserve. One group of three to 12 people is
%081-129 4116. Friday departures to Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe hoek with Swakopmund (US$8, 9½ hours) permitted on this trail each day for US$8 per
(US$52, 19¾), via Okahandja, Otjiwarongo, and Walvis Bay (US$8, 11 hours) daily ex- person, including accommodation in a shelter
Camping Gear Grootfontein, Rundu and Katima Mulilo. cept Saturday; and Windhoek with Gobabis halfway along. Advance bookings through
Try Camping Hire Namibia (Map p316; %/fax 252995; Local combis (minibuses) leave when full (US$4.25, 7½ hours) on Tuesday, Thursday NWR are required.
http://natron.net/tour/camping/hiree.html; 78 Malcolm Spence from the Rhino Park petrol station and can get and Sunday. Daan Viljoen Rest Camp (camping for up to 4 people
St, Olympia) to hire camping gear, but phone first. you to most urban centres in Namibia: Gobabis US$15, s/d bungalows US$25/31, 4-bed self-catering units
Cymot Greensport (Map p318; %234131; 60 Mandume (US$5, 2½ hours), Buitepos (US$7, five hours), GETTING AROUND US$65) sits on the shores of Augeigas Dam;
Ndemufayo Ave) is good for quality camping, hik- Swakopmund (US$7, four hours), Walvis Bay To/From the Airport there’s also a restaurant (h7.30-9am, noon-2pm
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
ing, cycling or vehicle outfitting equipment, (US$7.50, 4½ hours), Rehoboth (US$2.50, To the Chief Hosea Kutako International & 7-10pm) further along the road. Prebook at
as is Cape Union Mart (Map p316; Maerua Park Centre). 1½ hours), Mariental (US$6, three hours), Airport, the Elena Airport Shuttle (%244443, 0811 NWR in Windhoek.
Gear for 4WD expeditions is sold at Safari Den Keetmanshoop (US$8, six hours), Lüderitz 246286; elena@namibweb.com) provides 24-hour There’s no public transport to Daan Vil-
(Map p316; %231931; 20 Bessemer St); alternatively, (US$13, 10 hours), Otjiwarongo (US$7, three door-to-door airport transport for US$17 joen, but taxis charge around US$17 each way
try Gräber’s (Map p316; %222732; Bohr St) in the hours), Outjo (US$7.50, four hours), Groot- per bus; they also meet international flights. and persistent hitchers will eventually get a
Southern Industrial Area. fontein (US$8, seven hours), Tsumeb (US$8, Alternatively, try the Marenko Shuttle (%226331) lift. No motorcycles are permitted.
 324 N O R T H - C E N T R A L N A M I B I A Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N O R T H - C E N T R A L N A M I B I A 325

DORDABIS limestone and dolomite, sandwiched between

150 km

BOTSWANA
90 miles
ὈὈ
ὈὈ
ὄὄ
ὄὄὄὄ
D4

D1

Arnhem Cabe & Guesthouse............. 9 D4

Steakhouse...................................10 D1
Eningu Clay House Lodge................11 D4

Holiday Farm Scheidthof..................14 D4

Roy's Rest Camp..............................17 D1

C1
C4
C4
C1

Etosha Aoba Lodge...........................12 C1

Okonjima.........................................15 C2
B3

B3

Trails............................................13 B2

Ombinda Country Lodge..................16 B2

Toshari Inn........................................18 B1
Gamkarab Cave Guesthouse & Adventure
%062 quartzite and shale, in the rippled Arnhem

Dinosaur Footprints............................1
Dorka Teppiche Weavery...................2
Dragon's Breath Cave.........................3
Farm Ibenstein Weavery.....................4
Gross Barmen Recreation Resort........5
Hoba Meteorite..................................6
Kristall Kellerei Winery........................7
Muramba Bushman Trails...................8
The lonely ranching area around Dordabis is Hills synclines and anticlines (folds of strati-
the heart of Namibia’s karakul country, and fied rock). The cave was discovered in 1930

Die Kraal Camping Ground &

supports several sheep farms and weaveries. by farmer DN Bekker and, shortly thereaf-

F
At the Farm Ibenstein Weavery (Map p325; %573524; ter, mining operations began extracting the

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

BOTSWANA
h8am-12.30pm & 2.30-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat), deposits of bat guano, which were used as

Khaudom

Rietfontein
Reserve
Game

ὄ
located 4km down the C15 from Dordabis, fertiliser.
you can learn about spinning, dyeing and Guided tours cost US$8, plus US$3.50 to

SLEEPING
weaving, as well as purchase hand-woven hire helmets and torches. The route dives

Helena

Mamuno
rugs and carpets. You can also try the Dorka into darkness, beyond the reach of sunlight.
Teppiche Weavery (Map p325), which produces Because it’s dry, there are few stalagmites or

0
0
some of the finest original rugs and weavings stalactites, but it’s possible you could see up to

ver
Karakuwisa

River

Buitepos

i
er

R
in the country and progressive marble and six bat species. It’s also inhabited by a variety

Riv
E

wa
ein

kiro
soapstone sculpture. The weavery is located of insects, worms, shrews and shrimps. The

k
ont

O
Babi-Babi
e tf
Epu

i
in the grounds of the Eningu Clay House grand finale is the indescribable first view

R
Labora
r
ive

Welkom
(1532m)

C22
oR
Lodge (below). of the blue-cast natural light as you emerge

Drimiopsis
k
ata
from the depths.

Om
Sleeping Note that it gets extremely dusty, so wear

Keitsas
ver

C22

Epukiro
Ri
Holiday Farm Scheidthof (Map p325; % 573584; old clothing and avoid wearing contact lenses. eb

Gobabis
Eis

Maroelaboom
Tours must be booked in advance through

Otjimukandi

C20
discovaf@iafrica.com.na; camping per person US$5, r per person

Okatjoruu

r
B8

ve

er
Ri
incl breakfast US$45; p) This lovely 7400-hectare Arnhem Cave Guest House. r

Riv
Otjinene
Rive

Witvlei

it-
u
b

Doreenville
djo
sso

W
Steinhausen
farm offers a full complement of activities on
No

C29
jos

D
r

C30
ve Ot

Nina
Ri

Grootfontein

Arnhem
Sleeping

Summerdown
for the visitor, but the highlights are a 32km

14 Cave
b
Mangetti

Nosso
17

Okangeama

Okondjatu
Aukas

9
ku

4 C23 Kowas
Arnhem Cave Guest House (Map p325; %581885;

Oktjaveva
hiking trail and two 4WD tracks (which may

10 Berg
ata

International Silversand B6
Abenab
Om

Otjosondu
also be used for hiking). Turn south on the

C29
arnhem@mweb.com.na; camping per person US$7, d self- n

11
ei
Kl

ὄὄ
ὄ
ὈὈ
Tsintsabis

Cobleni

Omitara
M51, east of the international airport, then catering chalets US$35, s/d with half board US$40/65; p)

2
la c k
8

C42

B
east on the DR1506. The farm is 6km down This pleasant place offers an excellent over-

Tsumeb

B8

Seeis
C22

Hochfeld
6

Esere

Brack
Okakarara
Kombat
this road. night getaway from Windhoek, and lies within

Dordabis
R

Windhoek

WINDHOEK
3

Airport
mbo

C31
Eningu Clay House Lodge (Map p325; %226979; an hour’s walk of Arnhem Cave, on the same r
ve

Osire
Otjikoto
Ri

Owa

Lake
logufa@mweb.com.na; Peperkorrel Farm; s/d per person with farm.

Otavi

Penduka

Aris
Plateau Park

Okakeua

Okahandja
Waterberg
o
ak
half-board US$65/115; p) Yes, the name sounds a

B1

B1
at

C
Om

Mokuti
Airport

Guinas

C30
Getting There & Away

ὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὄὄὄ
ὄὄὄ
ὈὈὈὈ ὄ
ὈὈ ὄ
Lake
lot like the title of a children’s book and ap-

Evero
B1

Sukses

Daan Viljoen
Oshivelo

12

Neuheusis
propriately, this place is a bit of a fantasy. It The cave is on the private farm of Mr J Bekker.

Game Park
Ombotzu
(1920m)
B1

d
Otjiwarongo
was painstakingly designed and constructed To get there, turn south 3km east of Chief Hosea

n
Otjihaenamparero

a
ch l
by Volker and Stephanie Hümmer, whose ef- Kutako International Airport on the D1458.

15

Us
r e
C39

Riv

B2
Gerus

o
Otjimbingwe
forts with sun-dried adobe have resulted in an After 66km, turn northeast on the D1506 and

s H
ab
Ug
appealing African-Amerindian architectural continue for 11km to the T-junction, where

ma
iver
13

C33

Wilhelmstal

C28

ho
R
1
16
cross. To get to the lodge, follow the D1458 you turn south on the D1808. The farm is 6km

(Eastern Section) Map (p333)

K
ὄὄ
ὄὄὄ
ὄ
ὄὄὈὈ
ὄὈ Nature Park Tsaobis
Outjo

Kalkfeld
Etosha

7
for 63km southeast of Chief Hosea Kutako down this road.

See Etosha National Park

Groot Paresis

op
Pan

Eremutua

C33
Mountains
NORTH-CENTRAL NAMIBIA

Karibib

Swa k
Otuwe

Witwatersberge
International Airport and then turn west on

Buschfeld

Omaruru
18

Erongoberg

(1861m)
NORTH-CENTRAL
B

Usakos
Park

Leopard
(2216m)

Tsaobis
C38
the D1471; travel for another kilometre to
Okahakana

Okombache
Natukanaoka

Goreis
the Eningu gate.
Pan

(1728m) Phillips
Otjumue

Cave
Ameib
Pan

NAMIBIA

Omahoro
C39

Trekkopje
Epupa

Okonyenya
Vingerklip

Namib-Naukluft Park
r
ve
Getting There & Away

Omangambo
Ri

Spitzkoppe
Gainatseb
Otjikondo

Spitzkoppe
ὄ
ὄ
ὈὈ
ὈὈ
ver

(1584m)
To reach Dordabis, head east from Windhoek
r an

Klein
ive

Ri
Khorixas
Kh

C28
bR

Nonidas
C36
ru
on the B6 and turn right onto the C23, 20km The tourist trail in North-Central Namibia Ug
a u

Arandis
ar

Coast Recreation
C40
National

Rössing
Om

National West
Etosha

C35
east of town; the town centre is 66km down leads directly to Etosha National Park, one of
Park

C35
Fransfontein
River

H uab

Area
this road. At 7.30am on Friday, Star Line runs the world’s pre-eminent wildlife areas. Unlike

Uis
r
Otjovasandu

Rive

Brandberg
NAMIBIA

B2

NAMIBIA
Kamanjab

(2573m)

C35
a bus from Windhoek to Dordabis (US$5); the most safari parks in Africa, roads inside Etosha

-
Aba

Walvis Bay
Swakopmund
C34

ATLANTIC
Mountain
A

Wlotzkasbaken
bus returns at 4.45pm the same day. are 2WD-accessible and open to private vehi-

OCEAN
Burnt

Seal Reserve
Okatjuru

Cape Cross
Sout

Jakkalsputz
River

cles. This of course means that if you’ve been

Henties
Brandberg

Bay
Bergsig
C35

ARNHEM CAVE
Kowares

fortunate enough to rent your own vehicle,

West
de

Rodean

At 4.5km, Arnhem Cave is the longest cave you’re in for one of the most memorable safaris
bon

3
1

4
Om

system in Namibia. It was formed in a layer of of your life. Anyone call tell their friends and
 326 N O R T H - C E N T R A L N A M I B I A • • O k a h a n d j a lonelyplanet.com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com N O R T H - C E N T R A L N A M I B I A • • O u t j o 327

family back home how quickly their guide spot- GROSS BARMEN RECREATION German Captain Victor Franke, who defended OUTJO
ted a leopard in a tree, but how many people can RESERVE the colonial town in 1904 against a Herero at- %067
say they drove on the edges of a salt pan while The former mission station of Gross Barmen tack. The Rhenish mission station (admission free), Bougainvillea-decked Outjo, settled in 1880,
spotting elephant herds in the distance? (Map p325; %062-501091; admission per person US$2.50, constructed in 1872 by missionary Gottlieb was never a mission station, but in the mid-
per vehicle US$1.50; camping for up to 4 people US$12, d US$24, Viehe, now houses a small town museum. Pick 1890s it did a short, uneventful stint as a Ger-
OKAHANDJA 5-bed bungalows from US$40; ps), 26km southwest up keys to either place at the Central Hotel in man garrison town. For visitors, it best serves
%062 of Okahandja, has hot springs, short hikes and the town centre. as a staging point for trips to Okaukuejo,
Okahandja, the Herero administrative centre, fine bird-watching around the adjacent dam. A highlight is the Kristall Kellerei Winery in Etosha National Park. The 1899 military
is best-known for its two immense craft mar- Book your accommodation through (NWR) (Map p325; %570083; winery@omaruru.na; h9am-6pm residence, the Franke House, now houses the
kets – one near the junction of the B1 and B2, in Windhoek. Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat, dinner by appointment only). This, Outjo Museum (admission US$0.60; h10am-12.30pm &
the other about 1km out on the B1 towards Namibia’s only winery, produces colombard 3-5pm Mon-Fri).
Windhoek. At the southern end of Church St KARIBIB and ruby cabernet, and offers wine tasting and
is Friedenskirche, the Rhenish mission church, %064 great meals just 4km from town on the D2328. Sleeping & Eating
which was consecrated in 1876. Both in the The rustic ranching town of Karibib began Don’t miss its wonderful mineral water, Oasis, Outjo Backpackers (%313470; camping US$4, dm US$7,
churchyard and over the road are the graves as a station on the narrow-gauge rail line which is sold only in Omaruru. d with shared bathroom US$15; p) Behind the Afri-
of several historical figures, including those between Windhoek and Swakopmund. It’s Each year on the weekend nearest 10 Oc- can Curios Shop, this no-frills shoestringers’
of Herero leader Willem Maherero, Nama now dominated by the Palisandro marble tober, the White Flag Herero people hold a spot is centrally located, and has basic but
leader Jan Jonker Afrikaner and Hosea Ku- quarries, which annually yield more than 1200 festive procession in Omaruru. clean rooms and a well-stocked communal
tako, the ‘father of Namibian independence’. tonnes of aragonite, the world’s hardest and A worthwhile day trip from Omaruru kitchen.
Okahandja’s big events are Maherero Day in highest-quality marble. For tourist informa- would be to the Otjihaenamparero dinosaur Ombinda Country Lodge (Map p325; %313181;
August and the gathering of the Green Flag tion, contact Henckert Tourist Centre (%550028; footprints, 23km east of Kalkfeld, which fea- ombinda@ovt.namib.com; camping US$5 per person, s/d
Herero people in June. fax 550720; www.henckert.com; 38 Main St; h8am-5.30pm), tures the 170-million-year-old tracks of a incl breakfast US$35/50; pas) This jacaranda-
Okahandja Rest Camp (%504086; camping per site which also sells mineral specimens and local three-toed dinosaur. studded lodge is located 1km south of town,
US$9, d bungalows with shared bathroom US$12, d bungalows weavings. and features reed-and-thatch chalets with
US$22; p) is a secure camp located just outside Hotel Erongoblick (%/fax 550009; dm US$6, s/d with Sleeping & Eating modern amenities including satellite TV and
of town that offers modern ablution blocks, shared bathroom US$12/22, s/d US$18/30; s) offers nice Omaruru Rest Camp (%570516; jdg@iway.na; camp- air-con.
communal kitchens and braai (barbecue) digs and a swimming pool. The best place to ing per person US$4, s bungalows US$20-30, d bungalows Etosha Garden Hotel (%313130; www.etosha-gar
facilities. eat in Karibib is the Western Restaurant, on US$25-40; pi) This travellers’ rest camp at den-hotel.com; s/d US$30/50; pas) This is an
Pleasant Sylvanette B&B (%501213; sylvanet@ the main road. Karibib Bakery, which dates the edge of town also attracts locals with its Austrian-run oasis just a short walk from the
iafrica.com.na; s/d incl breakfast US$24/36; p) has seven from 1913, does great breakfasts and brewed popular restaurant (meals US$3 to US$7) town centre. It features well-furnished rooms
tidy rooms, and is in a quiet and garden-like coffee. and sports bar. Internet access is available for that surround a manicured garden and spot-
suburban setting. All of the bus and train services between US$4 per hour. less swimming pool.
Bäckerei Dekker & Café (%501962; Main St; meals Windhoek and Swakopmund pass through Hotel Staebe (%570035; staebe@iafrica.com.na; Outjo Cafe-Bäckerei (%313055; light meals US$2-4)
& snacks US$1.50-3) is a German café and bakery Karibib. camping per person US$5, s/d incl breakfast US$35/50; p Although it’s regionally famous for its bread
serving full breakfasts, toasted sandwiches, as) This quaint German-run hotel occu- and sweet treats, this is also a good choice
healthy snacks, pies, light lunches – and OMARURU pies a shady riverside setting, and features for light meals including chicken, schnitzels
desserts. %064 comfortable rooms with modern amenities and burgers.
Okahandja lies on the Intercape Mainliner, Dusty Omaruru, beside the shady Omaruru as well as a decent restaurant specialising in
minibus and train routes between Windhoek Riverbed, has a real outback feel to it. For a German fare. Getting There & Away
and points north. For train information, view over the town, you can climb Captain Central Hotel (%570030; central@africaonline.com Minibuses connect Outjo with Otjiwarongo
phone Trans-Namib (%503315). Franke’s tower, which was erected in honour of .na; Wilhelm Zeraua St; s/d US$30/45; ps) This small (US$2.50, one hour) from the bakery and the
and spartan place enjoys a central location OK supermarket, but there’s currently no
and friendly staff. public transport to Etosha or Khorixas.
FIREWOOD Omaruru Souvenirs & Kaffestube (%570230;
Firewood – normally split camelthorn acacia – is available for around US$2 per bundle at national Wilhelm Zeraua St) This cosy café is housed in GAMKARAB CAVE
park rest camps, most private camping grounds and general stores. Firewood gathering and open a historic building dating from 1907. It’s a Gamkarab Cave, 50km northeast of Outjo, is
fires are prohibited in national parks, but even outside the parks wilderness hikers are advised to good choice for a strong cup of coffee and replete with lovely stalagmites and stalactites,
carry a fuel stove and avoid lighting open fires, which can scar the landscape and may get out traditional German baked goods, as well as a and the surrounding area has an abundance
of control in the typically dry conditions. If you must gather your own firewood, note that it’s cold pint of Hansa and some pub grub in the of hiking trails, unusual vegetation and the
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
technically illegal in Namibia to use anything but mopane or acacia; burning or even carrying outdoor beer garden. world’s only source of pietersite mineral.
any other sort of wood will incur a fine, even outside national parks. Gamkarab Cave Guesthouse & Adventure Trails
Warning: do not burn dried branches of Euphorbia, as the plant contains a deadly toxin and Getting There & Away (Map p325; %067-313827; evg@agrinamibia.com.na;
it can be fatal to inhale the smoke or eat food cooked on a fire containing it. If you’re in doubt Trains to Tsumeb from either Walvis Bay or camping per person US$5, chalet per person US$12) offers
about any wood you’ve collected, leave it out of the fire. Windhoek pass through Omaruru. For train cave tours (US$4.50), horse riding (US$6 per
information, call Trans-Namib (%570006). hour), three-day horse tours (US$110) and
 328 N O R T H - C E N T R A L N A M I B I A • • O t j i w a r o n g o Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com N O R T H - C E N T R A L N A M I B I A • • G r o o t f o n t e i n 329

hiking trails (US$6 per day). With your own Getting There & Away
equipment, you can also go cave diving in The Intercape Mainliner service between THE RED LINE
the underground lake (US$7) or participate Windhoek and Victoria Falls passes through Between Grootfontein and Rundu, and between Tsumeb and Ondangwa, the B8 and B1 cross
in camping tours to Mooeihoek Cave and Otjiwarongo and minibuses between Wind- the Red Line, the Animal Disease Control Checkpoint (veterinary control fence) separating the
the upper Ugab Canyon (US$85 including hoek and the north stop at the Engen petrol commercial cattle ranches of the south from the communal subsistence lands to the north. This
meals). station. All train services between Tsumeb and fence bars the north–south movement of animals as a precaution against foot-and-mouth disease
Windhoek or Walvis Bay (via Swakopmund) and rinderpest, and animals bred north of this line may not be sold to the south or exported
OTJIWARONGO also pass through. to overseas markets.
%067 As a result, the Red Line also marks the effective boundary between the developed and
Otjiwarongo (‘the pleasant place’ in Herero) WATERBERG PLATEAU PARK developing Worlds. The landscape south of the line is characterised by a dry scrubby bushveld
lies at the junction of the roads between Taking in a 50km-long and 16km-wide Etjo (open grassland) of vast ranches, which are home only to cattle and a few scattered ranchers.
Windhoek, Swakopmund, Outjo, Etosha and sandstone plateau, Waterberg Plateau Park (per However, north of the Animal Disease Control Checkpoint, travellers enter a landscape of dense
the Golden Triangle. At the train station sits person US$2.50, plus per vehicle US$2.50; h8am-1pm & 2pm- bush, baobab trees, mopane scrub and small kraals, where people and animals wander along the
Locomotive No 41, which was manufactured by sunset year-round) looms 150m above the plain. road and the air is filled with smoke from cooking fires and bush-clearing operations.
the Henschel company of Kassel, Germany, Around this sheer-sided ‘Lost World’ are nu-
in 1912 and was brought to Namibia to haul merous freshwater springs supporting a lush
ore between the Tsumeb mines and the port mosaic of trees and lots of wildlife. The park is US$25 each way and quite a few budget safaris by hunter Jacobus Brits. This cuboid bit of
at Swakopmund. also a repository for rare and threatened species, include it in their itineraries. Note that bicy- space debris is composed of 82% iron, 16%
The Otjiwarongo Crocodile Ranch (%302121; including sables, roans and white rhinos. cles and motorcycles aren’t permitted. nickel and 0.8% cobalt, along with traces of
admission US$2; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 11am-2pm Sat & Sun), Visitors may not explore the plateau in other metals. No-one knows when it fell to
beside the caravan park, provides a marginally their own vehicles, but twice daily, NWR GROOTFONTEIN earth (it’s thought to have been around 80,000
interesting attraction. conducts three-hour wildlife drives (US$12/5 %067 years ago), but since it weighs in at 54,000kg it
The very basic tourist office (%303830; otjtc@ per adult/child). With a pronounced colonial feel, Grootfon- must have made a hell of a thump. There’s no
iafrica.com.na) is in the mineral shop opposite the tein (Big Spring) has an air of uprightness public transport, but taxis from town charge
Hamburger Hof Hotel. Hiking and respectability, with local limestone con- about US$15 each way.
There are nine short walking tracks around struction and avenues of jacaranda trees that
Sleeping & Eating Bernabé de la Bat Rest Camp, including one up bloom in September. It was the water that DRAGON’S BREATH CAVE
Falkennest B&B (%302616; otjbb@iafrica.com.na; 21 to the plateau rim at Mountain View. A four- attracted the earliest travellers, and in 1885, On Harasib Farm, 46km northwest of Groot-
Industria Ave; s/d incl breakfast US$18/30; ps) This day, 42km unguided hike around a figure-eight the Dorsland (Thirst Land) trekkers set up fontein, is the Dragon’s Breath Cave (Map
welcoming guesthouse is a friendly and af- track (US$12 per person) starts at 9am every the short-lived Republic of Upingtonia. By p325), which holds the world’s largest known
fordable option – bird lovers will appreciate Wednesday from April to November. Groups 1887, the settlement was gone, but six years underground lake. This fabulous 2-hectare
the colourful aviary, and everyone else will are limited to between three and 10 people. later Grootfontein was selected as the head- subterranean reservoir occupies an immense
enjoy the pool and braai pits. Hikers stay in basic shelters and don’t need a quarters for the German South-West Africa chamber 60m below the surface. Its waters
Out of Africa Town Lodge (%303397; www.out-of tent, but must otherwise be self-sufficient. Company, thanks to the area’s agricultural are crystal clear and, with sufficient light,
-afrika.com; Long Street; s/d US$50/60; pas) This Also from April to November, the four-day potential and mineral wealth. In 1896, the allow visibility for 100m. The name is derived
attractive whitewashed, colonial-style lodge guided Waterberg Wilderness Trail (US$24 German Schutztruppe constructed a fort and from the spontaneous condensation caused by
has recently renovated rooms featuring satel- per person) operates every second, third and it became a garrison town. warm, moist outside air forcing its way into
lite TV and air-con. There is also an on-site fourth Thursday of the month and is open to You’ll find the most useful tourist informa- the cool chamber.
bistro, pool, outdoor bar and restaurant. groups of six to eight people. Accommodation tion at Meteor Tours (%/fax 240086; dirkv@namibnet At the time of writing, the cave was closed
Okonjima (Map p325; %304563; www.okonjima.com; is in huts, but participants must carry their .com; h8am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri), which also pro- to the public and permission to explore it was
s/d with half board US$180/245) The ‘Place of Baboons’ own food and sleeping bags. All hikes must be vides email and internet access. granted only to professional caving expedi-
is home to the AfriCat Foundation, which prebooked through NWR in Windhoek. tions. However, following a recent change
sponsors a cheetah and leopard rehabilitation Sights in ownership, there are currently plans to
centre as well as a sanctuary for orphaned or Sleeping & Eating GERMAN FORT & MUSEUM develop the site for tourism.
problem lions, cheetahs and other cats. Guests Bernabé de la Bat Rest Camp (camping for up to 4 peo- In 1968 it was only a last-minute public appeal
can take part in cheetah and leopard tracking ple US$12, d/tr bungalows US$40/50, 5-bed bungalows/ste that saved the old German fort from demoli- Sleeping & Eating
expeditions, in addition to more relaxing ac- US$50/65; p) Offers a range of accommodation tion, and in 1974 it was restored to house the Die Kraal Camping Ground & Steak House (Map p325;
tivities including hiking, birding and wildlife with fans, braais and outdoor seating areas. municipal museum (Map p330; %242478; h4-6pm Tue %240300; camping per person US$4; p) Located 6km
drives. To reach Okonjima, turn west onto The camp restaurant serves meals during lim- & Fri, 9-11am Wed). To visit at other times, phone from town on the Rundu road, this German-
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
the D2515, 49km south of Otjiwarongo; fol- ited hours and a shop sells staple foods in the Mrs Pricket or Mrs Blumer (%242479). run guest farm provides the safest and most
low this road for 15km and turn left onto the morning and afternoon. attractive camping in the immediate Groot-
farm road for the last 10km. HOBA METEORITE fontein area. Die Kraal is locally famous for
Carstensen’s (%302326; St George’s St) This excel- Getting There & Away Near the Hoba Farm, 25km west of Groot- its top-prize steaks and game meat – even if
lent bakery and takeaway in the town centre is There’s no public transport, but taxis from fontein, the world’s largest meteorite (Map you’re not spending the night, be sure to stop
a long-standing Otjiwarongo institution. Otjiwarongo will get you there for around p325; admission US$1.30) was discovered in 1920 by for a meal.
 330 N O R T H - C E N T R A L N A M I B I A • • Ts u m e b Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com N O R T H - C E N T R A L N A M I B I A • • Ts u m e b 331

GROOTFONTEIN 0
0
600 m
0.4 miles h9am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat), in the personality of Mousebird, though it’s still a
Queen Elizabeth 1915 Old German Private School. cheap and comfortable option if you’re count-

Schönfelder
A B C D The Tsumeb Cultural Village (%220787; admission ing your Nam dollars.
C42 Hindorf
To Tsumeb (57km);
Etosha National Park (170km) Andersson US$1.30), on the Grootfontein road, presents Mousebird Backpackers & Safaris (Map p331;

Rahman

Eriksson
%221777; www.mousebird.com; 533 4th St; camping

Hage Geingob Ave

To Hoba Meteorite
(25km)
Kaptein Lombaard Toen
esse
Steff en Namibia’s many cultures with artefacts, dem-
1
n
Nickey Iyambo St
Historic
onstrations and buildings from around the per person US$4, dm US$8, d US$16; p) Tsumeb’s

Hidipo Hamutenya St
Cemetery

man

Dr Ngarikutuke Tjiriange
country. friendliest and most economical accommo-

Dr
Manetti Jasper 1 B2
Mo lton

Hart
n ltke Gauss y Ga To Die Kraal Camping
Volkman
St Hospital rtne
Cou lark Lake Otjikoto (admission US$1.30), meaning ‘deep dation, Mousebird offers comfortable rooms,
Bristow

Wither
Ground & Steak House (6km);

Sinclair
C

Nujoma
e Roy's Rest Camp (53km);
on Treic
To Otavi Kaptein Franke
Moltke thb
Ra Chur hel Rundu (238km) hole’ in Herero, lies on the B1 about 24km excellent kitchen facilities and a nice little
(96km) ch d
Dr Toivo ja Toivo
a v ang
oR northwest of Tsumeb. It was created when the bar. If you don’t have a car, it also operates
Okavango Rd Ok 4 roof of a 150m by 100m limestone sinkhole affordable safaris to Etosha (US$160 for three

Sam
B8 3
6 2
Railway (not in use)
5 collapsed; the resulting 55m-deep lake and days) and Otjozondjupa region (US$125 for
nearby Lake Guinas are the only natural lakes two days).
INFORMATION EATING
Meteor Tours.............................(see 2) Steinbach Bäckerei.......................3 B2 in Namibia. In 1915, during WWI, the retreat- Etosha Café & Biergarten (Map p331; %221207;
Huilbos

2 ing Germans dumped weaponry and ammuni- Main St; s/d with shared bathroom US$13/22; p) This
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Maroela TRANSPORT
German Fort & Museum...............1 C1
Paul Swart
Minibuses to Rundu & Oshakati...4 C2 tion into Lake Otjikoto – most of which is still quaint place offers clean, inexpensive ac-

Sonneblom
Minibuses to Tsumeb & there – to prevent the equipment falling into commodation, and it’s also one of the best
SLEEPING Windhoek................................5 B2
Meteor Hotel...............................2 C2 To Airport
Star Line (Trans-Namib) ..............6 A2 South African hands. If you’d like to dive in places in town for a hearty breakfast (with real
the lake, contact the Windhoek Underwater Club brewed coffee!) or a relaxed lunch or dinner
(%061-238320, 0811 281945; theo@schoemans.com.na). in the shady beer garden.
Roy’s Rest Camp (Map p325; %240302; royscamp@ TSUMEB Pension OMEG Allee (Map p331; %220631; 858 Omeg
iway.na; PO Box 755; camping per person US$5, s/d US$32/45, %067 Sleeping & Eating Allee; s/d incl breakfast US$30/45; pa) For a healthy
3-/4-bed bungalows US$60/65; ps) Accommoda- Tsumeb, which is perhaps Namibia’s loveliest Travel North Backpackers (Map p331; % 220728; dose of German hospitality, this friendly,
tion in this recommended place appears to town, enjoys quiet streets lined with flame travelnn@tsu.namib.com; Omeg Alee; camping per person family-run pension (boarding house) is a good
jump straight from a fairy-tale illustration – trees and jacarandas and surroundings that US$4, dm US$7, s/d from US$14/25; p) Adjacent to choice. Comfortable rooms with modern
the handmade wood furnishings are all fabu- have geologists salivating. Of the 184 minerals the tourist office, this no-frills lodge lacks the amenities are warm and homely.
lously rustic, while the thatched bungalows that have been discovered here, 10 are found

ὈὈ
are tranquil beneath towering trees. Meals are nowhere else in the world, and mineral col- TSUMEB 0 200 m
0 0.1 miles
US$4 to US$8. Roy’s is located 53km outside lectors justifiably rank the area as one of the
of Grootfontein on the road towards Rundu, world’s great natural wonders. A B C D
and it’s a convenient stop if you’re heading to The town’s name is derived from a melding
INFORMATION
Tsumkwe (p346). of the San word tsoumsoub (to dig in loose Travel North Namibia Tourist
Meteor Hotel (Map p330; %242078; s/d incl break- ground) and the Herero otjisume (place of 1
Office.......................................1 B3

ὈὈ
fast B&B US$30/50; pa) Modern rooms with frogs). Tsumeb isn’t really known for little 1st St SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
satellite TV and air-con are bright and airy, croakers, but the red, brown, green and grey 2nd St
Tsumeb Mining Museum.............2 C2

t
To Lake Otjikoto (24km);

al S
and the attached dining room is an excellent streaks created by minerals of the area re- Tsintsabis (63km); SLEEPING

spit
Muramba Bushman Post St Etosha Café & Biergarten..............3 B2
choice for local and European dishes. semble dried frog spawn, and both the frogs

Ho
Trails (70km);
Etosha National Makalani Hotel.............................4 B2
Steinbach Bäckerei (Map p330; %242348; snacks and digging equipment appear on the town’s Park (90km) Park Mousebird Backpackers & Safaris..5 C2
Pension OMEG Allee....................6 B3
US$2-3.50) This Grootfontein institution is a crest. 8
Main St Travel North Backpackers.............7 B3

ὈὈ
good bet if you’re hankering for a slice of 3
2
EATING
German chocolate cake or fresh-baked brown Information

8th Rd
4 Windpoort Pizza...........................8 B2
3rd St
bread. Travel North Namibia tourist office (Map p331; 2
TRANSPORT
%220728, 0811 246722; travelnn@tsu.namib.com; 1551 5 Bahnhof St Minibus Terminus......9 A3
Getting There & Away

3rd Rd
4th St
Omeg Alee, PO Box 799) The friendly tourist office provides Intercape Mainliner Bus Stop......(see 1)

Omeg Allee
Minibuses run frequently between Grootfon- information about the whole country, accommodation 5th St

Ilse Schot St
tein and Tsumeb, Rundu, Katima Mulilo and and transport bookings, as well as car hire anywhere in
Bahnhof St

Tsumeb 6th St
Station Sports
Windhoek, departing when full from informal northern Namibia (with special rates for Etosha trips). It 9 Field
1st Rd

6th Rd
5th Rd
bus stops along Okavango Rd at the appro- also provides Etosha bookings; fax, email and internet 7th St
7

priate ends of town. The Intercape Mainliner services; and laundry (US$2 to wash and dry; US$3 for a 1
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
bus between Windhoek (US$33, seven hours) service wash). 6

and Victoria Falls (US$25, five hours) also 3

passes through. On Thursdays at 11.30am, Sights & Activities
Star Line runs buses from the train station Tsumeb’s history and mineralogical heritage To Tsumeb
Cultural Village (3km); To Airport
to Tsumkwe (US$8, 6½ hours); it returns the is recounted in the worthwhile Tsumeb Mining 9th St
Grootfontein (57km);
Otavi (65km); Dekker van Wyk St
next day, leaving Tsumkwe at 10.15am. Museum (Map p331; %220447; Main St; admission US$1; Windhoek (431km)
 332 N O R T H - C E N T R A L N A M I B I A • • E t o s h a N a t i o n a l Pa r k Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N O R T H - C E N T R A L N A M I B I A • • Etosha National Park (Eastern Section) 333

Mushara
Makalani Hotel (Map p331; %221051; www.makalani Information

To Etosha Aoba
Lodge (10km);
Tsumeb (88km)
Lodge
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
20 km
12 mi
hotel.com; 3rd St; s/d incl breakfast US$60/85; pas) Visitors to the park must check in at von
Located in the town centre, the Makalani is Lindequist, Andersson or King Nehale gates
the most established and upmarket hotel in and purchase a daily permit, which costs

Twee Mokuti
Palms Lodge
Tsumeb. Modern rooms feature satellite TV US$3.50/0.30 per adult/child and US$2.50 per

Klein Lindequist
Gate
Von
and air-con, and surround a sparkling swim- vehicle. The permits must then be presented

Dikdik Drive
ming pool and a shady lapa. at your reserved rest camp, where you pay any

Aroe

Namutoni
Rest Camp
Windpoort Pizza (Map p331; %220243; Main St; outstanding camping or accommodation fees,

Namutoni
Kameeldoring

Windmill
Tsumcor
medium pizzas US$2.50-4; h7am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm & which must be prepaid through a travel agency

Fischer's
0
0

Mushara

Pan
or to NWR (%061-2857000; reservations@mweb.com

Tsam
5-7.30pm Sat, 5-7.30pm Sun) Housed in a video shop,

Chudob
Windpoort does a range of excellent (and .na; Independence Ave, Windhoek; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri) in

Koinachas

Kalkheuwel
Andoni Plain

Klein Okevi
Groot Okevi
often bizarre) pizza concoctions. Windhoek.

Dungariespomp
Book well in advance for visits during

Stinkwater
Getting There & Away Namibian or South African school holidays

Springbokfontein
The Intercape Mainliner between Windhoek (normally mid-December to mid-January,

Andoni

Kawaseb
Batia
and Victoria Falls calls in at the Travel North around Easter, late July to early August, and

Leeunes

Ngobib

Koinseb
Namibia office. Minibuses travel frequently for two weeks in mid-October). During this

Okerfontein
from the Bahnhof St terminus in Tsumeb to period, you may be limited to three nights in

Eland Drive
Grootfontein, Oshakati and Windhoek. each of the three camps, although exceptions

Noniams
Trains run three times weekly to and from can sometimes be made.
Windhoek and Walvis Bay. For train informa- Note that pets and firearms are prohibited

Goas
tion, contact Trans-Namib (%220358). in the park. Those booked into the rest camps

Windmill
Poacher's Point

Helio
must arrive before sunset and can only leave

Nuamses

Rhino Drive
ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK after sunrise; the daily times are posted on

Etosha Lookout
%067

Rest Camp
the gates.

Halali
Rietfontein
Etosha National Park, the ‘Great White Place
of Dry Water’, takes in more than 20,000 sq km Sleeping & Eating

Etosha Pan
surrounding its namesake, the vast white- and Etosha is open to day visitors, but it’s impossible
greenish-coloured Etosha Pan. This vast park to see much of the park in less than two or three
protects 114 mammal species, as well as 340 days. Most visitors spend a couple of nights at

Charitsaub
ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK (EASTERN SECTION)

Fence
Salvadora
bird species, 16 reptiles and amphibians, one one of its three rest camps, Namutoni, Halali

Sueda

Aus
fish species and countless insects. and Okaukuejo, which are spaced at 70km in-

Olifantsbad

Game
Windmill
Homob
The first Europeans in Etosha were traders tervals. Each has its own character, so it’s worth

Gemsbokvlakte
and explorers John Andersson and Francis visiting more than one if you have the time.

Windmill
Galton, who arrived by wagon at Namutoni Each camp is open year-round and has a

Gonob

Ondongab
r
in 1851, but Etosha didn’t attract the interest restaurant, which is open from 7am to 9am,

To Toshari Inn (27km);

Oshig ambo Rive

Kapupuhedi
of tourists or conservationists until after the noon to 2pm and 6pm to 10pm daily, as well

Outjo (102km)
turn of the 20th century, when the governor as a bar, a shop, a swimming pool, picnic sites, Ekuma

Ombika
of German South-West Africa, Dr F von Lind- a petrol station and a kiosk. The restaurants

ὄὄ
ὄὄ
Riv
er

Gaseb
equist, became concerned over diminishing serve meals from 7am to 8.30am, noon to

Pan
Wolfsnes
animal numbers and founded a 99,526 sq 1.30pm and 6pm to 8.30pm; at other times,

Ongava
Lodge
km reserve. In subsequent years, the park the kiosks are open. If you’re self-catering,

Okaukuejo
Rest Camp

Andersson Gate
boundaries were altered several times, and however, it’s considerably cheaper if you stock

Okondeka
by 1970 Etosha had been pared down to its up on groceries prior to entering the park.

Leeubron

Ondundozonananandana
present 23,175 sq km.
ὄὄὄ
ὄὄ
ὄὄ Mountains
Natukanaoka

IN THE PARK

Okahakana
Orientation Prebooking for the NWR-run rest camps
Pan

Nacto
Pan
Only the eastern two-thirds of Etosha is open listed following is mandatory. Although it is

Adamax
to the general public; the western third is re- sometimes possible to reserve a space at either

Dry Water Hole

NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
Water Hole
served exclusively for tour operators. All roads of the park gates, it’s best to contact the NWR

Grünewald

Toilets
are passable with 2WD vehicles and it’s in the office in Windhoek (see p315) well in advance
eastern section that you’ll find the rest camps. of your visit.

Ozonjuitji
Windmill
m'Bari
Each of the three rest camps has an information Okaukuejo Rest Camp (camping for 4 people US$20,
D3605

centre, and the staff and shops at either of the economy r or bungalows US$33, 2-bed r US$41, 3-bed bunga-
main gates sell maps and provide basic info. lows US$41, 4-bed chalets US$50, 4-bed ‘luxury’ bungalows
 334 N O R T H - C E N T R A L N A M I B I A • • A B e g i n n e r ’ s G u i d e t o T r a c k i n g G a m e lonelyplanet.com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com N O R T H - C E N T R A L N A M I B I A • • E t o s h a N a t i o n a l Pa r k 335

US$58, 4-bed self-catering bungalows US$95; ps) Gate, Toshari is the most affordable option
A BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO TRACKING GAME Okaukuejo’s camping ground is a bit of a dust outside the park, and a convenient place to
Visitors to Africa are always amazed at the apparent ease with which professional guides locate hole, but the self-catering accommodation crash if you can’t reach the park by sunset or
and spot their quarry. While most of us can’t hope to replicate their skills in a brief visit, a few may be the nicest in the park. The bungalows if the rest camps are fully booked.
pointers can hone your approach. and chalets all have a kitchen, braai pit, and Mokuti Lodge (%229084; www.namibsunhotels.com

Time of day – this is possibly the most important factor for determining animal movements bathroom and toilet facilities. .na/english/e_mokuti.htm; s/d incl breakfast from US$120/165,
and behaviours. Dawn and dusk tend to be the most productive periods for mammals and The floodlit water hole is probably Etosha’s f incl breakfast US$215; pas) This sprawling
many birds. They’re the coolest parts of the day, and also produce the richest light for pho- best rhino-viewing venue, particularly from lodge, located just 2km from von Lindequist
tographs. Although the middle of the day is usually too hot for much action, this is when 8pm to 10pm. Also popular is the sunset photo gate, has more than 100 rooms as well as sev-
some antelope feel less vulnerable at a watering hole, and when raptors and reptiles are most frenzy from Okaukuejo’s landmark stone tower, eral swimming pools and tennis courts, though
obvious. which affords a view across the spaces to the the low-profile buildings create an illusion of
distant Ondundozonananandana (Lost Shep- intimacy. The lodge seeks to create an infor-

Weather – prevailing weather conditions can greatly affect your wildlife-viewing experience. herd Boy) Mountains; try saying that after three mal, relaxed atmosphere, and is a good choice
For example, high winds may drive herbivores and birds into cover, so concentrate your pints of Windhoek lager (or even before!). if you’re travelling with the little ones.
search in sheltered areas. Summer thunderstorms are often followed by a flurry of activity as Halali Rest Camp (camping for 4 people US$20, 2-bed Mushara Lodge (%229106; www.mushara-lodge
insect colonies and frogs emerge, followed by their predators. Overcast or cool days may pro- r US$37, economy bungalows US$42, self-catering bungalows .com; s/d chalet incl breakfast US$140/225; pas)
long activity such as hunting by normally crepuscular predators, and extremely cold winter US$48-81) Etosha’s middle camp, Halali, nestles Located on a 25-sq-km concession just 8km
nights force nocturnal species to stay active at dawn. between several incongruous dolomite out- east of the von Lindequist gate, this rustic

Water – most animals drink daily when water is available, so water sources are worthwhile crops. The name is comes from a German term lodge is dotted with ‘mushara’ or purple pod
places to invest time, particularly in the dry season. Predators and very large herbivores tend for the ritual horn-blowing to signal the end terminalia trees, and attractively blends mod-
to drink early in the day or at dusk, while antelopes tend to drink from the early morning to of a hunt, and a horn is now Halali’s motif. A ern and traditional design elements. Accom-
midday. On the coast, receding tides are usually followed by the appearance of wading birds floodlit water hole extends wildlife viewing modation is in 12 reed and thatched chalets
and detritus feeders such as crabs. into the night, and allows observation of noc- that are scattered across a manicured lawn.

Food sources – knowing what your quarry eats will help you to decide where you should
turnal creatures. The watering hole at Halali is Etosha Aoba Lodge (Map p325; %229100; www
spend most of your time. A flowering aloe might not hold much interest at first glance, but
arguably the best wildlife-viewing venue in the .etosha-aoba-lodge.com; s/d incl breakfast US$145/225;
knowing that it is irresistible to many species of sunbirds might help to change your mind.
park. The bungalows are for four people. pas) Situated on a 70-sq-km private
Fruiting trees attract monkeys while herds of herbivores with their young are a predator’s
Namutoni Rest Camp (camping for 4 people US$20; 2-bed concession about 10km east of von Lindequist
dessert cart.
r with shared bathroom US$18, 2-bed r US$41, 2-bed economy gate, this tranquil lodge is located in Tamboti
flats inside/outside the fort US$38/27, 4-bed chalets US$45, forest next to a dry riverbed. The property

Habitat – knowing which habitats are preferred by each species is a good beginning, but just 4-bed flats US$42/50, 4-bed luxury ste US$87) The most is comprised of 10 light and airy thatched
as important is knowing where to look in those habitats. Animals aren’t merely randomly dis- popular and best kept of the camps is Namu- cottages that blend effortlessly into the sur-
persed within their favoured habitats. Instead, they seek out specific sites to shelter – hollows, toni, with its landmark whitewashed German rounding riverine forest.
trees, caves and high points on plains. Many predators use open grasslands, but also gravitate fort. It originally served as an outpost for Ger- Hobatere Lodge (Map p348; %067-330261; res
towards available cover such as large trees, thickets or even grass tussocks. Ecotones – where man troops, and in 1899 the cavalry built a fort africa.net/hobatere-lodge; s/d with full board US$155/280;
one habitat merges into another – can be particularly productive because species from both from which to control Owambo uprisings. pas) Located 80km north of Kamanjab
habitats overlap. on the western border of Etosha, Hobatere is

Tracks and signs – even when you don’t see animals, they leave many signs of their presence. OUTSIDE THE PARK a fine base for exploring the western Etosha
Spoor (tracks), scat (droppings), pellets, nests, scrapes and scent-marks provide information Pre-booking for the lodges listed below is (closed to private vehicles) and the Kaokoveld
about wildlife, and may even help to locate it. Check dirt and sand roads when driving – it strongly recommended. (p350), though it’s a bit far from Etosha Pan.
won’t take long for you to recognise interesting spoor. Elephant footprints are unmistakable, Toshari Inn (Map p325; %333440; toshari@out.namib Accommodation is in 12 pastel-washed cot-
and large predator tracks are fairly obvious. Also, many wild cats and dogs use roads to hunt, .com; camping per site US$16, r per person incl breakfast US$42; tages located close to a popular water hole
so look for where the tracks leave the road – often they mark the point where they began a ps) Located 27km south of Andersson (elephants gather here in the dry season).
stalk or sought out a nearby bush for shade.

Equipment – probably the most important piece of equipment you can have is a good pair of THE NAME OF THE GAME
binoculars. These help to not only spot wildlife, but also correctly identify it (this is essential
The word ‘game’ actually hails from hunting: originally the game was the thrill of the sport, but
for birding). Binoculars are also useful for viewing species and behaviours where close ap-
gradually the quarry itself came to be called game. Derivation notwithstanding, the term pops
proaches are impossible. Field guides, which are pocket-sized books that depict mammals,
up regularly in Southern Africa when people refer to wildlife, and doesn’t necessarily mean that
birds, flowers etc of a specific area with photos or colour illustrations, are also invaluable.
some poor beast is about to receive a lethal dose of lead poisoning. ‘Game viewing’ is the most
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
These guides also provide important identification pointers and a distribution map for each common local term for wildlife watching, and is usually done on a ‘game drive’, a guided tour by
species. vehicle. ‘Big Game’ is, of course, the Big Five (the black rhino, Cape buffalo, elephant, leopard and
lion), whereas ‘general game’ collectively refers to the diverse herbivore community, ranging from
Remember, although the majority of foreign visitors to Southern Africa choose to join an organised duikers to giraffes. Of course, while ‘game’ in its various forms is used widely, hunters also still
safari, nothing is comparable to the thrill of doing it yourself. employ the term, most often as ‘Big Game’, as well as ‘Plains Game,’ their term for herbivores.
 336 N O R T H E R N N A M I B I A lonelyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N N A M I B I A • • O s h a k a t i 337

Ongava Lodge (%061-274500; www.wilderness-safaris Hitching is prohibited inside Etosha, but Northern Namibia, which is the country’s your passport in the morning and pick it up
.com; s/d with full board & activities US$600/830; pas) hitchers may be able to find lifts from Tsumeb most densely populated region, is undeniably in the afternoon.
The most exclusive luxury lodge in the Etosha to Namutoni or Outjo to Okaukuejo. Sort its cultural heartland.
area is located on a private game reserve near out entry permits when you enter the park or Sleeping & Eating
Andersson Gate that protects several prides of your driver may have problems when trying to OSHAKATI Oshakati International Youth Hostel (%224294; San
lions, a few black and white rhinos and your exit the park (it will appear that some of their %065 Nujoma Rd; dm US$4, r per person US$10; p) Caters
standard assortment of herd animals. Ongava original party has vanished!) Your best bet is to The Owambo capital is an uninspiring com- mainly to Namibian school groups, but the
is divided into two properties; the main Ongava explain when you enter the park that you need mercial centre that is little more than a strip of hostel is clean and friendly to foreigners. Men
Lodge is a collection of safari-chic chalets sur- separate entry permits for your own records. characterless development along the highway. and women are housed in separate rooms.
rounding a small water hole, while the Ongava While it lacks specific attractions, it’s worth Santorini Inn (%220457; bookings@santorini-inn
Tented Camp is six East African–style canvas Getting Around spending an hour at the large and odorous .com; s/d incl breakfast from US$45/60; pas) This
tents situated deep in the bush. As well as hitching, pedestrians, bicycles and covered market, which proffers everything somewhat out-of-place inn may inspire
motorcycles are prohibited in Etosha, and from clothing and baskets to mopane worms the sensation that you’ve died and gone to
Getting There & Away open bakkies must be screened off. Outside and glasses of freshly brewed tambo (beer). Florida. With a distinctly tropical feel, the
Air Namibia flies daily between Windhoek’s the rest camps, visitors must stay in their Santorini features a pool, bar, digital satellite
Eros Airport and Mokuti Airport (US$90/145 vehicles (except at toilet stops). Information TV, restaurant, and a refrigeration shop that
one way/return), immediately south of Von For changing money, major banks (Bank of ensures that the air-con is functional.
Lindequist Gate.
Etosha’s two main entry gates are Von Lind-
equist (Namutoni), west of Tsumeb; and An-
NORTHERN NAMIBIA Namibia, Bank of Windhoek, First National
Bank and Standard Bank) are represented
along the bustling commercial centre. Email
Oshandira Lodge (%220443; oshandira@iway.na; per
person incl breakfast US$45; ps) Located next to the
airport, this pleasant lodge is a good choice –

ὈὈ
Ὀ
ὈὈὈὈ
dersson (Okaukuejo), north of Outjo. There’s Known as the ‘Land of Rivers’, Northern and internet access are available at the Iway simple but spacious rooms surround a land-
no public transport into the park, but Tsumeb, Namibia is bounded by the Kunene and I-café (%224070; per hr US$4.50; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri). scaped pool and thatched open-air restaurant.
the nearest bus and rail terminal, 110km away, Okavango Rivers along the Angolan bor- Alternatively, there’s the Pick-a-Phone (%221300; Oshakati Country Lodge (%222380; countrylodge@
has several car-hire agencies. Otherwise, plenty der, and in the east by the Zambezi and the per hr US$3.50; h8am-6pm), in the Yetu Centre. mweb.com, Robert Mugabe Rd, per person US$70; as)
of safari companies run Etosha tours, including Kwando/Mashe/Linyanti/Chobe river sys- The Angolan Consulate (h9am-4pm Mon-Fri) is- Provides posh but fairly heartless accommo-
some very economical options (see p397). tems. Although Windhoek may be the capital, sues 30-day visas for around US$50. Drop off dation for business travellers and government

ὈὈ
Ὀ
ὈὈὈὈ Ὀ
NORTHERN NAMIBIA 0
0
150 km
90 miles

A B C D E F G H
r
Rive

ANGOLA
Luangundo Rivungo ZAMBIA
ne River
Oka

ne

Za
Ca
Ku

m
van

nd ombe Kw

be
1 Xangongo 1

ὈὈὈ
ὄ
ὄὄ ὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
Ὀ ὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
Ὀ ὄ
LUENGUE

zi
go

an
iv er

Luengue Rive

ὅὅὅ
do

Ri
NATIONAL r

ve
ANGOLA
Chissombo R

PARK River

r
Calueque Ri
ve
Ri

ὅὅὅ
Dam Coutado do
ve

Ondjiva Cu
r

ito Mucusso Luia SIOMA NGWEZE

na R NATIONAL PARK
iver
Chitado Ruacana Ri MUCUSSO
Falls Santa Clara ve NATIONAL

ὅὅὅ
Uutapi Katwitwi r
Ruacana Oshikango Elundu PARK Luiana
(Ombalantu) Okongo Wenela Katundo
To 5 Okalongo B1 Cuangar
er

Onesi Eenhana Schuckmannsburg

C46 Nkurenkuru Katima
Riv

Swartbooi's Oshikuku Mpungu

ὅὅὅ
ὅ ὅὅ
Drift 2 Okatenda Calai Mulilo

ὈὈὈ
ὄὄὄ ὈὈὈὈ
ὄὄ
a

ὈὈὈ
Ongulumbashe Ogongo dil Nepara C45 Kongola B8
Bukalo Kasane
Otsandi 4 Oshigambo O Chipipa Kangango B8
C35 Oshakati Ondangwa Namungundo River Sambusu Mucusso BWABWATA Lake Liambezi
Ongandjera Okahau Rundu Sambiu Mashari (Dry)

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅ
ὅὅὅ ὅὅ
B8 NATIONAL PARK EAST
ak Oniipa OWAMBO
Et

2 Okankolo Katere Mukwe Divundu MUDUMU Ngoma 2

C41 a CAPRIVI
1 REGION Andara Popa Falls
River

Ombombo NATIONAL PARK Bridge

Opuwo Olukonda Bagani WEST CAPRIVI
Ek

Lake KAVANGO Ncaute

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅ
Oponono
uma

REGION MAMILI
le

B1 MAHANGO Shakawe
Nipe

NATIONAL
r

GAME
ve

PARK See East Caprivi Map (p342)

Ri

Fischer's Oshivelo RESERVE BOTSWANA

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Omatako

Natukanaoka Pan Mangetti Nxamaser y

KHAUDOM i
Pan
Tsintsabis River l wa

ὈὈ
Okatjuru Etosha GAME
B8
pil
ETOSHA Pan RESERVE Tsodilo Hills a S
nd

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
NATIONAL Karakuwisa Xaud (1375m) Seli SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
um Nakambale House..........................1 B2
PARK Ri
Lake Kano v Omukwa Baobab...........................2 A2
Guinas Maroelaboom Vlei

er
ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Lake Tsumeb MOREMI Omusati Region Museum............(see 2)
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
Otjovasandu Otjikoto 3 WILDLIFE
Klein Gumare
See Etosha National Park Map C44 Döbe Okavango RESERVE SLEEPING

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
3 Hoba Omatoko 3
(Eastern Section) (p333) Meteorite Grootfontein Delta Camping Anaglù/OO....................3 E3
Tsumkwe
Cresta Lodge Pandu Ondangwa.....4 B2
Kamanjab Otavi B8 Aha Hills Osheja Guest House & Sunset

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
(1250m)
Camp.........................................5 A2
C40 C38 B1
Maun
C35 To
Outjo Windhoek OTJOZO ONDJUPA REGION
 338 N O R T H E R N N A M I B I A • • O n d a n g w a Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N N A M I B I A • • U u t a p i ( O m b a l a n t u ) 339

OSHAKATI 0
0
1 km
0.5 miles
Namibia. It now houses a museum. In 1889, Getting There & Away
Reverend Rauttanen also constructed the All transport services between Oshakati and
A B C D area’s first church, which is open by request. Tsumeb or Windhoek stop at Ondangwa’s
To Oshikuku Roman
Catholic Hospital (26km);
Uutapi/Ombalantu (64km) INFORMATION SLEEPING BP petrol station.
l i
d er le
an ata 13
Angolan Consulate...................... 1
Bank of Namibia..........................2
D3
D3
Oshakati Country Lodge.....................9
Oshakati International Youth Hostel..10
B2
B3
Sleeping & Eating
1
E w
M Bank of Windhoek.......................3 D3 Oshandira Lodge..............................11 B3 Ondangwa Rest Camp (% 240351; restcamp@osh UUTAPI (OMBALANTU)
See Enlargement First National Bank.......................4
Iway I-Café..................................5
D3
D3
Santorini Inn.................................... 12 D2 .namib.com; camping per person US$4) Surrounds a Dusty Uutapi (frequently spelled Outapi, or
Pick-a-Phone...............................6 C2 EATING rather fetid pond behind Ondangwa’s very called Ombalantu, after a formerly adjacent

Ὀ
Standard Bank.............................7 D3 Pick & Pay Supermarket....................13 A1 obviously pink shopping centre. Although village) is one of Namibia’s most typically
8
Rocha's............................................14 C2
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Spar Supermarket.............................(see 5) the camp site is less than appealing, the at- African commercial towns.
ufayo Oshakati Market..........................8 A1
me Ndem
TRANSPORT
tached Oasis Restaurant & Beer Garden is Its main attraction is its former South Af-
Mandu
Bus Station......................................(see 8) probably the best place in town for a beer rican army base, which is dominated by the
and a bite to eat. enormous Omukwa Baobab. In the past, this
To Ondangwa (25km); Olukonda National Monument (%245668; olukon amazing hollow tree was used to shelter cat-
Iip

Onandjokwe Lutheran Hospital (35km)

um

2 da.museum@elcin.org.na; camping per tent US$4 plus per tle from invaders, and later used as a turret
bu

Odangwa 12
Rd
Sh

from which to ambush invading tribes. It

ilo

14 person US$1.50, traditional huts per person without/with linen

ng
o

9 6 US$5/8, cottages per person incl breakfast US$10) Here’s didn’t work against the South African army,
0 200 m
Independence 0 0.1 miles your opportunity to sleep in a basic mission- however, which invaded and used the tree for
Stadium be
ary cottage or a hut that would have been used everything from a chapel to a coffee shop (a
Im

a
ug
am

tM 2
an

r
be 5 historically by an Owambo chief or one of his sign outside reads ‘Die Koffiekamer Koelte’,
ue

a 7
Ro

lS

an 10
h 1 wives. The site is located in Olukonda vil- meaning ‘The Coffee Chamber Cult’), a post
hif

Os joma
Rd
idi

u 4
Sam N
Osha
kati Le
oS 3 lage (which also contains Nakambale House), office, a storage shed and an interrogation
Kw

11 ho
am

op
ala just 6km southeast of Ondangwa along the chamber for prisoners of war. The site, 1km
eN

Oshakati
3 D3606. off the D3612, is loosely described as the
kr

Airport
um
a

Cresta Lodge Pandu Ondangwa (Map pp336-7; Omusati Region Museum (Map pp336-7; admission free;
a
mb
mu

%241900; ondangwa@crestanamibia.com.na; s/d from h24hr) and includes a nearby bunker and
Lu

US$55/70; pas) This plush new business-

ce

watchtower from the South African days.

tri
Pa

travellers’ option features bright rooms deco-

rated with tasteful artwork as well as modern RUACANA
officials. Rooms are well furnished and come is required in places, especially after rain. furnishings. The attached Chatters restaurant %065
equipped with air-con and satellite TV. Petrol is available at Oshakati, Ondangwa, prepares decent Continental-inspired cui- The tiny Kunene River town of Ruacana (the
Rocha’s (%222038; Ondangwa Rd; mains US$4-8) For Oshikango and Uutapi (Ombalantu). sine, and there’s also a small takeaway in name comes from the Herero words orua
a taste of Angola, head to Rocha’s where you the lobby. hakahana – ‘the rapids’), was constructed as
can feast on Portuguese-style fare including ONDANGWA
a wide range of local fish dishes. %065
The second-largest Owambo town, Ondangwa WHAT’S BREWING IN THE OWAMBO COUNTRY?
Getting There & Away boasts several colourful buildings, a booming Forget the Pig & Whistle, Hare & Hounds and King George & the Dragon. The Owambo have their
AIR market and warehouses that provide stock to own pub culture, and the bars, nightclubs and bottle shops – better known as ‘cuca shops’ –
Oshakati’s airport is used for charters only. the 6000 tiny cuca shops (small bush shops along the northern highways bear wonderfully colourful names. One bottle store is called Seri-
Commercial flights use the airport in Ondan- named after the brand of Angolan beer that ous, another is the Fruit of Love and yet another is California BS. Perhaps the best is simply the
gwa, 25km down the road. they once sold) that serve the area’s rural unpretentious Botol Stor.
residents. Then there are the bars: the Clinic Happy Bar, Hot Box, Daily Needs, Salon for Sure, Club Jet
BUS & COMBI Lost in the maze of routes and tracks south Style, Sorry to See, Bruce Lee Bar, Oversize Bar, Club Euro Frique, Let’s Push, California City Style,
From the bus terminal at the market, white of Ondangwa lies Lake Oponono, a large wetland Come Together Good Life, Happy Brothers & Sisters, Join Us, Hard Workers Bar, Every Day Bar,
(minibuses) leave frequently for Ondangwa fed by the Culevai oshanas (underground Bar We Like and USA No Money No Life. A few are more philosophical: The System, Just Another
(US$1.50, one hour) and Uutapi/Ombalantu river channels). After rains, the region at- Life, The Agreement Centre, Take Time, Keep Trying No 1, Keep Trying No 2, Tenacity Centre and
(US$2, two hours). Minibuses for Windhoek tracts a variety of bird life, including saddle- Try Again. There also seems to be a new hydrological theme emerging: Sea Point, Quay 4, Club
(US$10, 11 hours), via Tsumeb (US$3, four bill storks, crowned cranes, flamingoes and LA Coast, Pelican, Friend Ship, Titanic, Titicaca, and Seven Seas Up & Down.
hours) set out when full, with extra departures pelicans. The edge of the lake lies 27km south Some names, however, boggle the mind. Who, for example, came up with the Sign of Mr Hans,
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
on Sunday afternoon. of Ondangwa. We Push & Pull, One Moo, No Wally Let’s Support Bar, Far Well Mr Happy Bar, Let’s Sweat for
Also worthwhile is Nakambale House (Map Tailor Bar, Club Say Father of Mustache, Let We Trust Uncle Simon, Three Sister in Beer Garden
CAR pp336-7; admission US$0.75; h8am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, and Wet Come to Big Mama? And given the choice, would you prefer to down a drop in the
The C46 and B1 through the Owambo region 8am-1pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun), which was built in the Peace Full Bar or the Water is Life, or choke down a foul brew in the Oshakati establishment
are tarred and in good condition, but off these late 1870s by Finnish missionary Martti Raut- known as Vile Waters?
routes, road maintenance is poor and 4WD tanen, and is the oldest building in northern
 340 N O R T H E R N N A M I B I A • • R u n d u Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N N A M I B I A • • K h a u d o m G a m e R e s e r v e 341

a company town to serve the 320-megawatt This brand-new lodge is situated in a secluded Okavango; the lodge also organises cultural which takes in 384,000 hectares. Along its
underground Ruacana hydroelectric project, riverine clearing 4km from the town centre, evenings with residents of adjacent Mayana meandering sand tracks you’ll see roans, wild
which currently supplies more than half of and features a number of attractive thatched village, and visits to Mayana School, which is dogs, elephants, zebras and most other species
Namibia’s power requirements. chalets that surround a landscaped pool. supported by the lodge. Transfers from town you’d encounter at Etosha National Park, but
The dramatic 85m-high Ruacana Falls was Ngandu Safari Lodge (% 256723; ngandu@mweb cost US$29 per group. in a much lonelier context.
once a great natural wonder, but thanks to .com.na; Sarasungu Rd; camping per person US$4, s/d from Tambuti Lodge (%255711; tambuti@namibnet.com; Namibia Wildlife Resorts asks visitors to
Angola’s Calueque Dam the water flows only US$30/40; ps) With a wide range of accom- s/d incl breakfast US$35/40, honeymoon ste US$80; ps) travel in a two-vehicle convoy and be self-
during heavy rains, when the power station modation to suit travellers of all budgets, this This small Swiss-run lodge is located at Rundu sufficient in food, water and spares. Caravans,
is satisfied and excess water is released over long-standing Rundu lodge draws a diverse Beach, and combines the convenience of being trailers and motorcycles are prohibited. The
the dam. In 2001 and 2002, the falls roared to mix of guests. Ngandu is conveniently situated in town with beauty of a riverside setting. two camps Khaudom (camping for 4 people US$12, 4-
life in March and April, presenting a spectacle near the centre town, though it’s about 1km Highlights are the on-site restaurant feature bed huts US$14) and Sikereti (camping for 4 people US$12,
comparable to Victoria Falls – if you hear from the riverfront. a host of traditional Swiss dishes, and the 4-bed huts US$14) won’t disappoint. All visitors
that it’s flowing, you certainly won’t regret N’Kwazi Lodge (%255467; nkwazi@iafrica.com.na; honeymoon suite, which has one of the most must prebook through NWR in Windhoek.
a side trip to see it. To enter the border area, camping per person US$4, African huts US$25, d incl breakfast bizarre Jacuzzis you’ve ever seen.
visitors must sign the Namibian immigration US$55) Makes a great riverside retreat, with Hakusembe Lodge (%257010; www.natron.net BWABWATA NATIONAL PARK
register. family-style meals and hospitality. In the /hakusembe; camping per person US$4, s/d with half-board %066
Osheja Guest House & Sunset Camp (Map pp336-7; evening, you can take a sunset cruise on the US$140/215; pas) This secluded hideaway Bwabwata National Park includes five main
%0812 424916; camping per person US$4, Sunset bunga- sits amid lush riverside gardens, and features zones: the 20,500-hectare West Caprivi Tri-
lows per person US$10, Osheja guest house per person US$18; RUNDU 0 1 km eight luxury chalets (one of which is floating) angle around Kongola (also known as the
0 0.5 miles
p) is a two-part lodge consisting of a leafy decked out in safari prints and locally crafted Kwando Core Area), the Mahango Game Re-
camping and bungalow area as well as the A B furniture. It lies 17km down the Nkurenkuru serve, Popa Falls, the Buffalo Core Area near
nearby Osheja Guest House. During business ANGOLA
road, then 2km north to the riverbank. Divundu and the now-defunct West Caprivi
hours, you can register with Venessa at the To Sarasungu
River Lodge (4km)
Antja’s (%256973; Main St; breakfast US$2, meals Game Reserve. Bwabwata aims to rehabili-
BP petrol station. Meals are available with 1 US$2-4) A good option for breakfast, burgers, tate wildlife populations that were virtually
advance booking. toasted sandwiches, pies, sweets and coffee destroyed by poaching.

Sara
To N'Kwazi
r

Minibuses connect Ruacana with Oshakati Calai (including espresso and cappuccino). Prior to the 2002 Angolan ceasefire, this
ve

Lodge (17km)
Ri

sun
daily from the BP petrol station. Ozzy’s Beer House (%256723; meals US$3-5) This area saw almost no visitors. Now that peace
o

gu R
ng
va

3
popular restaurant serves up greasy local fare, has returned, however, tourism is slowly start-
ka

Khe
d i Rd
Usiv
O

RUNDU

mo
St
4 Market
ro nga though it’s cheap and has a good number of ing to pick up again. If you’re looking to get

St
Rundu
iwa
%066 Beach 1 S
To Khemo
vegetarian options as well. off the beaten path, this is a great area to ex-
Rundu, a sultry tropical outpost on the bluffs gere
St
5
Open Market
(300m)
plore while it’s still relatively undiscovered.
en
above the Okavango River, has little of specific Mari
a Mw Getting There & Away
Saf

6
interest for tourists, but it’s great to laze at one Intercape Mainliner’s weekly buses between Sights
ari

2
S

2
t

of the lodges alongside the river, especially if Windhoek (US$38, nine hours) and Victoria MAHANGO GAME RESERVE
you want to break up the long drive to/from Falls (US$36, 11 hours) pass Rundu’s Shell The 25,400-hectare Mahango Game Reserve
Nkarap amwe St
the Caprivi Strip. It’s also a centre of activity Rundu
petrol station at 5.15am Saturday northbound (admission per person US$3.50 plus per vehicle US$3.50) oc-
Kakakuru St

Stadium
for Namibia’s growing Angolan community. To N'Kwazi Lodge (19km); and 7.15pm Sunday southbound. cupies a broad flood plain that’s best known
Divundu (220km);
Every May at Rundu Beach, locals put on the To Hakusembe
Lodge (18km) Katima Mulilo (553km) Star Line’s twice-weekly services between for its dry-season concentrations of thirsty
‘Anything that Floats’ regatta, accompanied by Windhoek (US$15, 11 hours) and Katima elephants. This is the only national park unit
the usual drinking, dining and socialising. 7 B2
Mulilo (US$12, seven hours) also call in at in Namibia where visitors are permitted to
The tourism centre (%256140; ngandu@mweb Rundu. Star Line runs a bus from Rundu to walk at will; winter is the best time for ob-
.com; Kakakuru St; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat) is 3 Tsumeb (US$9, four hours), via Grootfontein, serving the area’s ample wildlife. The near-
Rundu
run by the same folks who operate the Ngandu Airport at 8pm on Wednesday and Sunday. The bus est NWR camp is Popa Falls, 15km north of
Safari Lodge (see below). It can provide basic that runs from Grootfontein to Rundu (US$8, Mahango.
tourist information. three hours) leaves at 7.30pm on Tuesday
The well-stocked Okavango Pharmacy (Siwar- INFORMATION and Friday. DIVUNDU
Okavango Pharmacy..........................1 B2
onga St) is probably the best place for pharma- Tourism Centre...................................2 B2 A car ferry and border crossing are ex- Nondescript Divundu, which serves as a com-
To Grootfontein
ceuticals in northern Namibia. (238km) pected soon between Rundu and Calai, across mercial centre for the adjacent villages of
SLEEPING
If you’re shopping for crafts, be sure to visit Ngandu Safari Lodge..........................3 B1 the river in Angola. Mukwe, Andara and Bagani, has a couple of
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NAMIBIA
the Khemo Open Market (Khemo St), which has a Tambuti Lodge...................................4 A2 supermarkets and three (ostensibly) 24-hour
good selection of Kavango woodcarvings. 4 EATING KHAUDOM GAME RESERVE petrol stations.
Antja's................................................5 B2 If you’re looking for a truly wild and un-
Ozzy's Beer House..............................6 B2
Sleeping & Eating touristed wildlife venue in Namibia, head POPA FALLS
Sarasungu River Lodge (%255161; sarasungu@mweb TRANSPORT
Shell Petrol Station & Minibus Stop.....7 B3
for the undeveloped Khaudom Game Reserve Near Bagani, the Okavango River tumbles
.com.na; camping per person US$4, s/d US$30/40; ps) (day admission per person US$2.50 plus per vehicle US$2.50), down a broad series of cascades known as
 342 N O R T H E R N N A M I B I A • • B w a b w a t a N a t i o n a l Pa r k Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
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Popa Falls (day admission per person US$2.50 plus per vehicle opposite the Popa Falls Rest Camp, and has the sounds of hippos splashing ease you into a for the elephants that marched through. Now-
US$2.50). They’re nothing to get steamed up similar facilities. restful sleep. The camp is located 4km off the adays little wildlife remains, but the ambience
about, but low water does expose a 4m drop. Mahangu Safari Lodge (%259037; www.mahangu main road, though the sandy access can prove is still pleasant.
A kiosk sells the basics: tinned food, beer, .com.na; camping per person US$4, small/large tent per person difficult without a 4WD. Phone the lodge if
candles and mosquito coils. with half-board US$20/35, chalet per person with half-board you need a lift from Divundu. Information
US$50; ps) Situated among a grove of jackal- Suclabo Lodge (%259005; marlon@ravemail.com.za; Tourist information is dispensed at Tutwa Tour-
Sleeping berry trees along the Okavango River near the camping B&B per person US$7, s/d bungalows B&B US$75/100; ism & Travel (Map p344; %253048; tutwa@mweb.com.na;
WESTERN SECTION entrance to the Mahango Game Reserve gate, ps) This German-run lodge occupies a PO Box 126), which also organises custom tours
Following are the accommodation options in this reader-recommended lodge has a variety scenic bluff above the Okavango River about around the region. On weekdays, the Bank
the western section of the park. of accommodation to suit all budgets. Note 500m upstream from Popa Falls. It’s a good of Windhoek, beside the main town square,
Popa Falls Rest Camp (camping for 4 people US$12, that during rainy periods, the access road base for organising boat trips (US$9) and changes cash and travellers cheques at an ap-
each additional person US$2, standard/luxury 4-bed huts leading to the lodge may be impassable to Mahango wildlife drives (US$20), though non- propriately tropical pace. For fax, email and
US$26/28; p) Although it’s getting a bit shabby, 2WD vehicles. Germans may feel a bit out of place. internet access, see IWAY (Map p344; per hr US$2.50;
this NWR-run camp site does afford great Ngepi Camp (%259903; www.ngepicamp.com; camp- h8am-9pm Mon-Sat, 1-9pm Sun), in a nondescript
views of the cascades. A small on-site shop ing per person US$5, huts US$22; p) Ngepi is Mbuku- EASTERN SECTION building beside the Caprivi Arts Centre. If
sells the essentials while a field kitchen is shu for ‘How are you?’, and folks who stay At the eastern end of the park are a number of you’re either entering or leaving Namibia, be
available for self-catering. Facilities include here are normally just fine. Travellers rave accommodation options. See also p345. sure to pay the road tax (US$10) at the Cross-
cold showers, sit-down flush toilets and braai about this place, and we agree: it’s probably Nambwa Camp Site (Map p342; camping per person Border Charge Office.
pits. one of the best backpacker lodges in Namibia. US$5) Nambwa, 14km south of Kongola, lacks
N//goabaca Camp (camping per person US$4; p) Entire days can be spent sunbathing and read- facilities, but it’s the only official camp in the Sights
The Caprivi Arts Centre (Map p344; h8am-5.30pm),

ὈὈὈ
This locally run camp site is a member of ing on the green lawns or swimming in the park. Book and pick up a permit at the Susuwe
Namibia Community Based Tourism Asso- Okavango River ‘cage’ (it keeps you and the ranger station, about 4km north of Kongola run by the Caprivi Art & Cultural Association,
ciation (Nacobta; www.nacobta.com.na), a crocs at a safe distance from one another). (4WD access only) on the west bank of the is a good place to look for local curios and
collective of various organisations that aims Entire nights can be spent boozing it up in river. To reach the camp, follow the 4WD track crafts, including elephant and hippo wood-
to foster increased community-based tourism. the inviting bush bar. Crash for the night in south along the western bank of the Kwando carvings, baskets, bowls, kitchen implements
The camp sits beside the Okavango River a reed hut or pitch a tent by the river, and let River. and traditional knives and spears.
Susuwe Island Lodge (Map p342; %South Africa

ὈὈὈ
EAST CAPRIVI 0
0
50 km
30 miles
27-11-706 7207; www.islandsinafrica.com; low/high season Sleeping
per person US$305/465) This chic safari lodge is Caprivi Traveller Guest House (Map p344; %252788;
A B C D located on a remote island in the Kwando dm US$5, s/d US$14/16; p) Although it advertises
INFORMATION River, and it is surrounded by a wildlife-rich itself as a backpackers’ lodge, the Caprivi
Sinsinzwe Gate...................................1 A3
habitat of savanna, woodland and wetland. Traveller is actually more of a budget hotel.
1 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Accommodation is in six stylish brick and But it’s a cheap and clean option if you’re

ὈὈὈ
ὈὄὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ
Lizauli Traditional Village....................2 A3

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Mashi & Nsheshe Crafts Centre......(see 10)
thatch chalets adorned in soft earth tones. just looking to crash for the night. To get
Susuwe is accessible only by charter flight or there, follow the Rundu road 800m from the

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Wenela Ferry Sesheke Zam
4WD. Prebooking is mandatory. centre, turn left onto the nameless gravel road
be
Kwando ZAMBIA
Wenela River and continue on for 50m; the guesthouse is
Katima
zi

Lisikili

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
River Mulilo
Schuckmannsburg
To Victoria
Falls (49km); Getting There & Away on the left.
Livingstone
Mpacha (60km); Mpalila All buses and minibuses travelling between Caprivi River Lodge (%253300; www.capriviriver

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Airport

ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
Island (1km)
Singalambwe
Bukalo Katima Mulilo and Rundu pass through lodge.net; camping per person US$4; budget r s/d US$45/80,
Police Hwy Divundu. The gravel road between Divundu chalet incl breakfast US$90/110; ps) This reader-

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
n
2 Checkpoint Golde
Kongola Sibinda Rive
r and Mohembo (on the Botswana border) is recommended riverside lodge offers rustic
To Rundu (432km) Mate e Kasane accessible by 2WD, and there’s lots of traffic chalets and modest wooden cabins with shared

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
B8 Lake ob
4 Ngoma Ch
14
Liambezi
(Dry)
Bridge
See Kasane & Kazungula
Map (p104)
but no public transport; drivers may transit bathrooms, as well as grassy camp sites to suit
9
the park without charge, but incur national travellers of all budgets. The lodge is located

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅὅὅ
BWABWATA
Kanono
park entry fees to use the loop drive through 5km from Katima Mulilo along the Ngoma

ὈὈὈὈ
NATIONAL PARK
3 SLEEPING
the park. road.

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
MUDUMU Linyanti Camp Kwando...................................3 A3
2 CHOBE
r
ve

NATIONAL NATIONAL Kubunyana Community Camp...........4 A2

Zambezi Lodge (%253149; www.namibsun.com
Ri

5 PARK PARK Lianshulu Lodge.................................5 A3 To Nata

KATIMA MULILO

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ti Lyadura Camp Site.............................6 A3 .na; camping per person US$4, s/d incl breakfast US$65/95;
8 an
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NAMIBIA
ny
%066
Li Muumbu Camp Site...........................7 A3
Dipito Malengalenga Nakatwa Camp Site............................8 A3 ps) This stunning, riverside lodge is

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
3 Sangwali Nambwa Camp Site...........................9 A2 Out on a limb at the eastern end of the Caprivi perched on the banks of the Zambezi, and
10 11 Nsheshe Community Camp..............10 A3
7
12
1
BOTSWANA Nzalu Camp Site...............................11 B3 Strip lies remote Katima Mulilo, which is as features a floating bar from where you can

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
13
Linyanti
Shibumu Camp Site..........................12 A3 far from Windhoek as you can get in Namibia. watch the crocs and hippos below. The lodge
Sishika Camp Site.............................13 A3
MAMILI Swamp
6 Susuwe Island Lodge........................14 A2 This very African town features lush vegeta- is located 2km from town along the Ngoma
NATIONAL PARK
tion and enormous trees, and was once known road.
 344 N O R T H E R N N A M I B I A • • M p a l i l a I s l a n d Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N N A M I B I A • • M u d u m u N a t i o n a l Pa r k 345

KATIMA MULILO Drivers of foreign-registered vehicles leav- Mombova rapids, this stylish retreat has eight site is accessible in the dry season by 2WD,
0 300 m ing Namibia at Ngoma Bridge or Wenela need luxury chalets built on elevated decks at the though the road frequently floods after the
0 0.2 miles
a US$10 road tax certificate; if you did not water’s edge. The centrepiece of the lodge is rains.
ZAMBIA A B receive one on entry, purchase one at the road a pair of ancient baobab trees, which tower Camp Kwando (Map p342; %6860221; www.camp
r To Zambezi Lodge (2km);
Zam
bezi Ri
ve Caprivi River Lodge (5km);
Ngoma Bridge (67km)
tax office in town. For information on the majestically over the grounds. kwando.com; camping per person US$6.50, luxury tents s/d
1 Ngoma
Rd Wenela ferry, see p394. Ichingo Chobe River Lodge (%26-76 250143; www US$90/140, treehouses s/d US$165/260; ps) Near the
To Wenela
2 .ichingo.com; per person US$360) Ichingo consists of park entrance, 25km south of Kongola, this
Ferry (4km);
Zambia (6km)
3 MPALILA ISLAND eight East African–style luxury safari tents com- is a convenient base for exploring Mudumu.
%066
5
Market plete with thatched bathrooms. The ambience Whether you’re camping, bedding down in
8
1
4 Mpalila Island (also spelt Impalila) resembles is more relaxed and rustic than some in of its a luxury tent or climbing up a tree to your
7 a wedge driven between the Chobe and Zam- chic counterparts, though the lodge is perfect bungalow in the sky, you’ll be able to relax and
bezi Rivers. The island represents Namibia’s for a tranquil, worry-free escape. unwind at this secluded lodge. Rates include
outer limits at the ‘four-corners meeting’ of meals and activities.
Zimbabwe, Botswana, Namibia and Zambia, Getting There & Away Lianshulu Lodge (Map p342; %254317; www.lian
2 and actually reaches out and touches the mid- Access to Mpalila Island is either by charter shulu.com.na; per person US$195; ps) Occupying
INFORMATION
Bank of Windhoek........................1 B2 Zambezi point common to all four countries. flight (US$100 to US$150) or by boat from a private concession inside the boundaries of
Cross-Border Charge Office..........2 A1
IWAY............................................3 B1 In fact, on an area map, this international con- Kasane, Botswana, though lodges will organ- Mudumu National Park, Lianshulu is one of
Tutwa Tourism & Travel...............4 B1 vergence resembles Michelangelo’s Creation ise all transport for their booked guests. the most beautifully situated accommodations
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES of Adam on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel in Namibia. The lodge is dominated by an im-
Caprivi Arts Centre.......................5 B1 (really – check it out!). MUDUMU NATIONAL PARK pressive bar and dining area that overlooks the
6
SLEEPING The island, which is within easy reach of %066 surrounding wetlands. Rates include meals
Caprivi Traveller Guest House......6 A3
Mukusi Cabins.............................7 A2
Chobe National Park and Victoria Falls, is Until the late 1980s, Mudumu was a hunt- and activities. To reach the lodge, follow the
home to a handful of exclusive lodges catering ing concession gone mad, and over the years D3511 about 40km south of Kongola and turn
3 EATING
To Mpacha Airport Baobab Bistro.............................(see 4) to upmarket tourists in search of luxurious the wildlife was depleted by both locals and west on the signposted track. Rates include
(18km);
Kongola (119km);
Chicken Inn..................................8 B1 isolation. trophy hunters. In 1989, Mudumu National meals and activities.
Rundu (553km);
Windhoek (1253km) TRANSPORT Park and Mamili National Park were officially
Engen Petrol Station...................(see 7) Sleeping proclaimed in a last-ditch effort to rescue the MAMILI NATIONAL PARK
Prebooking for all of the accommodation area from environmental devastation. %066
listed below is essential. All lodges offer a var- In hopes of linking wildlife conservation Wild and little visited, 320-sq-km Mamili
Mukusi Cabins (Map p344; %253255; Engen petrol sta- iety of activities for guests including cruises and the sustainable use of natural resources National Park is Namibia’s equivalent of the
tion; budget r per person US$14, s/d cabins US$20/28; pa) on the Chobe River, guided wildlife drives, and local economic development, the former Okavango Delta, and when there’s water, the
This oasis in the centre of town has everything fishing expeditions, island walks and mokoro managers of Lianshulu Lodge helped the local park combines river channels, delightful wet-
from simple backpackers’ rooms with fan to (traditional dugout canoe) trips. Rates include community establish Lizauli Traditional Village lands and wildlife-rich islands. The forested
small but comfortable air-con cabins. The full-board as well as transfer from Kasane, (Map p342; tours per person US$2.30; h8.30am-5pm), areas brim with stands of sycamore figs, jackal-
lovely bar-restaurant dishes up a range of un- Botswana (p101). where visitors learn about rural Caprivian berry, leadwood and sausage trees, and are
expected options such as calamari, snails, king- King’s Den/Zambezi Queen (%6250814; www life. To get there, follow the D3511, south of fringed by vleis and reed-choked marshes.
clip, as well as steak and chicken standbys. .namibsun.com.na; s/d Zambezi Queen US$85/130, s/d King’s the Kongola petrol station. Mamili’s crowning glory is its bird life – more
Den US$170/275; as) The King’s Den consists than 430 species have been recorded. The
Eating of five rustic chalets that are perched along Sleeping best time to visit is from September to early
If you’re self-catering, there are two super- the Chobe River and surrounded by tropical Nakatwa Camp Site (Map p342; camping free; p) Mu- November.
markets to be found in the main square, as gardens. The Zambezi Queen is a riverboat dumu’s only camp site, 7km southeast of Li- Accommodation in the park is limited to
well as an open-air market near the Caprivi moored opposite Sedudu Island on the Chobe anshulu, is little more than a dry spot to pitch the Lyadura and Nzalu wilderness camp sites
Arts Centre. Proper restaurants are scarce in River, and features eight luxury cabins with a tent. Although it lacks any kind of facilities, in the eastern part of the park and Muumbu,
Katima Mulilo, though there are a couple of bathrooms. it overlooks extensive wetlands, and the price Shibumu and Sishika in the west (see Map
takeaways – the Chicken Inn (Map p344; meals US$2-5) Chobe Savannah Lodge (%Bookings through Desert is certainly right. p342), but no facilities are available and camp-
and the Baobab Bistro (Map p344; %252047; meals & Delta Safaris, Maun 686 1243; www.desertdelta.com; low/ Kubunyana Community Camp (Map p342; Choyi vil- ers must be self-sufficient. Camping permits
US$2-5) both offer your standard selection of high season per person US$250/325; as) The sister lage; camping per person US$4, fixed tents per person US$8; (US$3.50 per person and US$3.50 per vehicle)
greasy-spoon fare. lodge of the Chobe Game Lodge is renowned p) This locally run camp site 7km south are available at Sinsinzwe Gate or from the
for its panoramic views of the Puku Flats. of Kongola petrol station is a member of MET office (%253027, 253341; Katima Mulilo). Access
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
Getting There & Away Each stylishly decorated room has a private Nacobta (www.nacobta.com.na), a collective is by 4WD only.
The Intercape Mainliner passes Katima Mu- veranda where you can spot wildlife without of various organisations that aims to foster At Sangwali village, north of the park,
lilo en route between Windhoek and Victoria ever having to change out of your pyjamas. increased community-based tourism. Here Nactoba runs the Mashi & Nsheshe Crafts centre
Falls (Zimbabwe). Minibuses run when full to Impalila Island Lodge (%in South Africa 27-11-706 you can rent canoes (US$3 per hour) to pad- (Map p342), which produces and markets
and from Windhoek (US$15, 15½ hours) and 7207; www.islandsinafrica.com; low/high season per person dle around the adjacent backwater or take a Caprivian wood carvings, basketry and jew-
points in between. US$305/465; as) Overlooking the impressive guided walk (US$3.50 per hour). The camp ellery. It also operates the Nsheshe Community
 346 N O R T H E R N N A M I B I A • • O t j o z o n d j u p a R e g i o n Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N O R T H W E S T E R N N A M I B I A • • D a m a r a l a n d 347

Camp (Map p342; %696999; PO Box 1707, Ngweze; camping ties such as hunting with the San (US$8) and area is run by Arno and Estelle, who have who make up much of its population. Al-
per person US$3.50), 1km north of Sangwali. gathering wild foods (US$4). Fees are per lived in the area for several years and are well though it’s not an officially protected area, its
guide (up to three or four guides); there will respected by the local communities. From wild open spaces are home to many desert-
OTJOZONDJUPA REGION also be a fee for the translator (US$15 per Tsumkwe, go 1.5km south of the crossroads, adapted species, including giraffes, zebras,
%067 group). In the evening, you can experience turn right at the Ministry of Housing and lions, elephants and rhinos. In addition to its
The eastern part of Otjozondjupa region is traditional music and dancing by up to 15 continue for 500m. sense of freedom, the region is rich in both
commonly referred to as Bushmanland, a performers for US$33. Book through the There’s a restaurant at Tsumkwe Lodge, natural and cultural attractions, including
pejorative term that unfortunately seems Nyae Nyae office during regular business and Tsumkwe Winkel sells limited groceries, Brandberg, Namibia’s highest massif, and the
incapable of dying away. This largely flat hours. but beyond that, you must be self-sufficient. rock engravings of Twyfelfontein.
landscape of scrub desert lies at the edge of
the Kalahari, and is part of the traditional Sights Getting There & Away Spitzkoppe
homeland of the Ju/’hoansi San. Following a The dry hard-crust landscape supports bao- Remote Tsumkwe is surprisingly accessible on %064
spurt in worldwide interest in the San, there babs, including several giants. The imagin- the Thursday Star Line bus from Grootfontein The 1728m Spitzkoppe (D3716, Groot Spitzkoppe village;
has been a recent increase in tourist traffic atively named Grootboom (Big Tree) has a (US$8, 6½ hours), but beyond there, you’ll admission per person US$1.80, plus per car US$1; hsunrise-
throughout the region. Although Westerners circumference of over 30m, and the historic need to either have a private vehicle or be part sunset), one of Namibia’s most recognisable
typically perceive the San as a self-sufficient Dorslandboom (Thirst Land Tree) bears carv- of an organised tour. landmarks, rises miragelike above the dusty
hunter-gatherer society, witnessing the stark ings made by the Dorsland trekkers who There are no sealed roads in the region, pro-Namib plains of southern Damaraland.
reality of their modern lifestyle is a sobering camped here on their 1891 trek to Angola. The and only the C44 is passable to low-clearance Its dramatic shape has inspired its nickname,
experience. immense Holboom (Hollow Tree) grows near vehicles. Petrol is sometimes available at the which is the Matterhorn of Africa, but simi-
Fortunately, a number of influential West- the village of Tjokwe (also spelled Djokhoe). Bushmanland Safari Camp and the Tsumkwe larities between this granite inselberg and
erners ranging from academics and journal- The region’s diminutive service centre, Lodge, though it’s best to carry a few jerry the glaciated Swiss alp begin and end with
ists to development workers and cultural Tsumkwe, provides little more than basic gro- cans with you. If you’re planning to explore its sharp peak. Beside the Spitzkoppe rise the
survivalists have long been interested in the ceries, snacks and a tourist lodge. the bush around Tsumkwe, it is recommended equally impressive Pondoks, another inselberg
advocacy of indigenous rights throughout that you hire a local guide and travel as part formation that comprises enormous granite
Southern Africa. In Northern Namibia, US Sleeping & Eating of a convoy. domes.
film-maker John Marshall and his British The conservancy has set up five very basic The Dobe border crossing to Botswana Around the massif are dotted a number of
colleague, Claire Marshall, established the camp sites (US$5 per person) beneath notable requires 4WD and extra fuel to reach the beautiful wild camp sites (%530879; camping per
Nyae Nyae Development Fund in the late baobab trees: Makuri, Kremetart/N≠amapan, petrol stations at Maun or Etsha 6, which are person US$4; p), which are maintained by the
1980s to encourage the Ju/hoansi San to !O’baha, Holboom/Tjokwe and !A≠o. Water accessed by a difficult sand track through local community. Near the entrance, a small
return to their traditional lands. Over the is normally available in adjacent villages, but northwestern Botswana. shop sells staples and a range of local rocks
years, however, the foundation has suffered otherwise, campers must be self-sufficient. and minerals. Water (US$0.05/L) is scarce;
from a number of ideological conflicts, in-
cluding to what extent tourism should be
Avoid building fires near the baobabs, as it
damages the tree roots. NORTHWESTERN it’s wise to bring all you’ll need.
There’s no public transport, and although
fostered in the region.
If you’re thinking about whether or not to
visit Otjozondjupa, please consider the impact
Omatako Valley Rest Camp (camping per person in
tents/thatched shelters US$2.50/3) Outside the con-
servancy at the junction of the C44 and D3306,
NAMIBIA Swakopmund agencies offer day tours, you’d
probably regret not allowing more time to
explore this incredible place.
that you might have on the San community. this rest camp has solar power, a water pump, For 4WD explorers, Namibia is synonymous
On one hand, revenue from tourism can play hot showers and a caretaker. It offers both with the Skeleton Coast, a formidable desert Brandberg
a vital role in the development of the region, hunting/gathering trips (US$3 per person) coastline engulfed by icy breakers. Here, %064
particularly if you are buying locally produced and traditional music presentations (US$20 seemingly endless stretches of foggy beach The Brandberg (Fire Mountain) is named
crafts or paying for the services of a San guide. per group). are punctuated by rusting shipwrecks and for the effect created by the setting sun on its
However, Otjozondjupa is not a human zoo, Camping Anaglù/oo (Anaglù/oo Village; camping per flanked by wandering dunes. As one moves western face, which causes the granite massif
though unfortunately indigenous tourism is person US$3) This village has a nice little camp inland, the sinister fogs give way to the won- to resemble a burning slag heap. Its sum-
usually an exploitative force. If you do de- site with picnic areas, rubbish barrels, fire- drous desert wildernesses of Damaraland and mit, Königstein, is Namibia’s highest peak at
cide to visit, please remember that Western wood, water, a pit toilet and showers. It lies the Kaokoveld. The former is sparsely popu- 2573m. Its best-known attraction, the gallery
interests have already caused an irreversible 11km west of Tsumkwe along the C44, then lated by the Damara people, and is known of rock art in Tsisab Ravine, features the fa-
amount of damage to the region; be aware of 1km north. for its unique geological features; the latter mous White Lady of the Brandberg. The figure,
your surroundings, and be sensitive to the Bushmanland Safari Camp (%061-246708; camp- is known as one of the last great wildernesses which isn’t necessarily a lady, stands about
plight of the San. ing per person US$6) This wilderness outpost is in Southern Africa, as well as the home of the 40cm high, and is part of a larger painting
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
located about 80km west of Tsumkwe, and oft-photographed Himba people. that depicts a bizarre hunting procession. In
Information offers basic meals, fuel, mechanical repairs one hand, the figure is carrying what appears
Tourism is regulated by the Nyae Nyae Conserv- and a small shop. DAMARALAND to be a flower or possibly a feather. In the
ancy (%244011; nndfn@iafrica.com.na; entry per person Tsumkwe Lodge (%244028; www.tsumkwel.iway The territory between the Skeleton Coast and other, the figure is carrying a bow and arrows.
US$3.50), which also collects fees and activities .na; camping per person US$9, s/d bungalows US$65/105, full Namibia’s Central Plateau has traditionally However, the painting is distinct because ‘her’
charges from visitors. You can arrange activi- board US$95/170) The only tourist lodge in the been known as Damaraland, after the people hair is straight and light-coloured – distinctly
ὈὈὈὈ
348 N O R T H W E S T E R N N A M I B I A • • D a m a r a l a n d lonelyplanet.com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com N O R T H W E S T E R N N A M I B I A • • D a m a r a l a n d 349

NORTHWESTERN NAMIBIA 0
0
150 km
90 miles
For travellers, Uis is the only town of any size tour. At the entrance there’s a large thatched
near the Brandberg, and is a good place to fill picnic shelter and a small curio shop selling

ὈὈὈὈ
ὄ ὈὈὈὄ
Epupa Falls 6
A ve
r
7
B C D up on petrol and stock up on supplies. palm-ivory pendants, woodcarvings, local
Ri Otkimbapa ANGOLA
e ne Zebra Otjikongo Enyandi Swartbooi's Ruacana
Okalongo A worthwhile Uis-based venture is the Dâu- crystals and gems.
19 17 K un Mountains
es ns Omuramba Drift Falls Oshikango
n
Mar injange
o
y i
Ba unta
Himba Kraal 10 Ruacana Uutapi (Ombalantu)
reb Craft & Brandberg Community Tourism Project The Petrified Forest, whcih is signposted
Omuhonga
(Otj alley

1
Otjinungwa M
Okauwa Okongwati Otue
Hippo
Pools C46 Oshikuku B1
(%504030), which conducts guided tours to ‘Versteende Woud’, lies on the C39. En route
ienf
V
Har alley

Etengwa Epembe
the Brandberg rock-art sites and educates from Khorixas, watch for the prominent sand-
V
tma

luss )

Ovivero Dam Otjiveze Tsandi C41

C35 Oshakati
Otjitanda
travellers about the Damara culture. For in- stone formation known as ‘the Ship’, which
nn'

ὈὈὈὈ
ὄὄ ὄὄ
ὈὈὈὄ
Van Zyl's Ondangwa
s

Etanga Ongandjera
Rooidrum Pass Otwazumba Ombombo formation about the project and tours, contact is visible just south of the C39, 52km west of
Skele

Otjihaa
Pass Tertius !Oeamseb at the project. Khorixas.
r

C41
ve

Opuwo
ton

Ondauka OWAMBOLAND
Ri

r
Orupembe
Onjuva Plains Ri
ve
Otjirunda The Haus Lizenstein (%504052; lizen@iway.na;
m Sanitatas Okorosave See Estosha National Park
camping US$5, r per person incl breakfast US$35; p) is Twyfelfontein
sib

u
Rv

ut s (Eastern Section) Map (p333)

ru

Kaoko Otavi
un a

Jo unt
%067
M
oa

M Nad
Kh

an amenable family-run place at the edge

ub ai
o
H

Otjitoko
um

er ns
Co
ib River

t
as
t
KAOKOVELD
Otjondeka of town. You can also try the White Lady B&B At the head of a grassy valley, Twyfelfontein

ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
Okatumba
2 3 Okatjuru Etosha Okahakana Etosha
(%504102; nicovdyk@iway.na; camping per person US$5, r (admission per person US$1, plus per vehicle US$1) is one
Ombombo National Pan Pan
20 16 C35
Sarusas Purros
Otjozongombe Park per person US$40; ps), which occupies an in- of the most extensive galleries of rock art
Springs Sarusas Omuramba
Tomakas
2 Ganumub 8 congruously green compound with a welcom- in Africa. The original name of this water
Clay Kowares ing pool and bird-friendly water hole. source in the Aba-Huab Valley was /Ui-//Ais
Sk

Castles Sesfontein Warmquelle

W

Gagarus
er Anmire Damara Otjovasandu
ild

i v
(Surrounded by Rocks), but in 1947 it was
el

Dubis R Khowarib Cultural Village

er

5 Mon Desir
ne

Afguns
et

i b
oa n
Khorixas renamed Twyfelfontein, or ‘doubtful spring’,
ss

Amspoort H Om Biermanskool
on

bon
%067

ὈὈὈὈ
ὄ
ὄὄὈὈ
Möwe Bay
River 18
de River
C38 by European settler D Levin, who deemed its
b Kamanjab
ka Otjitambi
Although it’s the administrative capital of daily output of 1 cu metre of water insufficient
un Otjikondo
H
Rodean
Riv
er C40 Damaraland, Khorixas serves mainly as a re- for life in the harsh environment. The 6000-
3 Palmwag fuelling spot and a supply stop. You may want year-old petroglyphs here were executed by
r

Goreis Outjo
ve
Ri

Terrace C39
Bay
Un
iab C43
Hua
b Gainatseb er to visit Khorixas Community Craft Centre (%232154; cutting through the hard patina covering the
Fransfontein Riv
C34
C39 Bergsig Petrified Khorixas U g ab Main St), a self-help cooperative, which provides local sandstone. Guides are available (plan on
Forest Vingerklip 24 an outlet for local artists. The town holds an US$1 as a tip), but the route is easy and you

ὈὈὈὈὄὈὈ
ὄὄ
Torra Bay
Springbokwater
Wondergat
Skeleton Sinkhole
1
15 C35 annual arts festival in May. can usually walk alone.
SLEEPING Coast Park Twyfelfontein Organ Pipes iGowati Lodge (%331592; camping per person US$4, Nearby sites of interest include the Wonder-
r
Rive

Aba Huab Camp............................ 1 C4 21

Camel Top Camp Site.....................2 B2 a b Burnt bungalows per person incl breakfast US$60), opposite the gat sinkhole, the volcanic Burnt Mountain and the
Toscanini Brandberg Mountain DAMARALAND
petrol station, is a pricey but comfortable very worthwhile Organ Pipes dolerite (basalt)
Hu

Camp Aussicht...............................3 B2
West
Cape Cross Lodge..........................4 C5 r
Co

Elephant Song Camp......................5 B3 R ive lodge that provides a splash of colour and the columns. There’s no public transport here;
22 23
4 ab C33
as

Epupa Camp...................................6 B1 Ug Uis

C36 best meals in town. access is only by private vehicle or with an

ὈὈ
ὄὄ
ὈὈ
ὄ
Epupa Falls Public Camp Site...........7 B1 Ugabmund Skeleton Messum Brandberg Okombache
t

Hobatere Lodge.............................8 C2
Coast
Park Gate
Crater (2573m)
Neineis Omaruru Star Line has a Sunday bus from Khorixas to organised tour.
Jakkalsputz Camp Site....................9 C5 Henties Bay (US$7, 4½ hours), Swakopmund
r
ve

Kunene River Lodge......................10 B1 National C35 Uigaran

Ri

14 West Coast
Mile 4 Caravan Park....................11 C5 Recreational
Spitzkoppe
(1728m) To Windhoek
(US$9, six hours) and Walvis Bay (US$10, 6½ SLEEPING
u

Mile 14 Camp Site.......................12 C5 Area (172km) hours); it returns on Friday. Combis travel the Aba Huab Camp (Map p348; %697981; camping per
ur

Klein
ar

Mile 72 Camp Site.......................13 C5 Cape Cross 4 Spitzkoppe

Om

Mile 108 Camp Site.....................14 C4 Seal Reserve (1584m)

B2 Karibib
same route several times daily. person US$4, exclusive camp sites per person US$6, double
Mowani Mountain Camp.............15 C3
Ngatutunge Pamwe Camp Site.....16 B2
13 Usakos tents US$7, s/d A-frame US$27/42; p) This popular

ὈὈ
C32
Okarohombo Camp Site...............17 A1 Henties Bay
Trekkopje Tsaobis
Petrified Forest camp site is attractively perched beside the
Omarunga Camp.........................(see 7) 9
r

The Petrified Forest, 40km west of Khorixas, Aba Huab riverbed immediately north of the
ve

Palmwag Rhino Camp..................18 B3 Leopard

Ri

Arandis Sanctuary
5 Serra Cafema Camp.....................19 A1 C34
is an area of open veld scattered with petrified Twyfelfontein turn-off.
an

ATLANTIC Rössing Tsaobis

Kh

Skeleton Coast Wilderness Camp..20 B2 Wlotzkasbaken

Twyfelfontein Country Lodge...... 21 C4 OCEAN 11
12
Nonidas
Witwatersberge
(1861m)
tree trunks up to 34m long and 6m in circum- Twyfelfontein Country Lodge (Map p348; %374750;
Ugab River Camp Site..................22 C4 Swakopmund
kop R
v ference, which are estimated to be around 260 www.namibialodges.com; r per person incl breakfast US$115;
Ugab Wilderness Camp................23 C4 Swa
Vingerklip Lodge......................... 24 D3
B2
Namib-Naukluft C28 million years old. The original trees belonged pas) Over the hill from Twyfelfontein,
Walvis Bay Park
to an ancient group of cone-bearing plants this architectural wonder is embedded in the
that are known as Gymnospermae, which in- red rock. The lodge boasts stylish rooms,
un-African – and the body is painted white Uis cludes such modern plants as conifers, cycads an immense and airy elevated dining room
from the chest down. %064 and welwitschias. Because of the lack of root and a good variety of excursions throughout
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
Ugab Wilderness Camp (Map p348; camping per person The company town of Uis (Khoikhoi for ‘Bad or branch remnants, it’s thought that the fos- Damaraland.
US$4, plus per vehicle US$2.50, s/d tents US$18/26; p), a Water’) sprang up in 1958 when the South silised trunks were transported to the site in Mowani Mountain Camp (Map p348; %232009;
locally run camp site, is a member of Na- African corporation Iscor started a large-scale a flood. www.mowani.com; standard/luxury tent per person with full
cobta (www.nacobta.com.na) and is an excel- tin mine in the area. However, the mine closed Admission is US$4 per person, and guides board US$310/345; ps) There’s little to prepare
lent base for exploring the nearby hills. The in 1991 due to low world tin prices, and today are compulsory (tips are their only income); you for this beautiful lodge – hidden among a
turnoff is signposted from the D2359. Uis appears to be a ghost town in the making. plan on US$2 per group for the 500m walking jumble of boulders, its domed buildings seem
 350 N O R T H W E S T E R N N A M I B I A • • K a o k o v e l d lonelyplanet.com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com N O R T H W E S T E R N N A M I B I A • • K a o k o v e l d 351

to disappear into the landscape and you don’t find food staples at a small shop featuring a the South African Defence Force (SAFDF). OPUWO 0
0
300 m
0.2 miles
see it until you’re there. The mountain camp painting of a Score mielie meal. It is one of the least-developed regions of the
is located 5km north of the Twyfelfontein Camel Top Camp Site (Map p348; camping per person country, and is oft described as one of the A B
turn-off from the D2612. US$3.50; p) is a well-run community camping last true wildernesses in Southern Africa. It
ground with hot showers and large, shady is also home to the Himba (p352), a group of INFORMATION
Hospital..............................................1 B3
GETTING THERE & AWAY trees. It’s located 2km west of town, then 1km nomadic pastoralists native to the Kaokoveld 1 Kaoko Information Centre..................2 B4
There’s no public transport in the area and north of the road. who are famous for covering their skin with a SLEEPING
little traffic. Turn off the C39 73km west Although accommodation at Camp Aussicht traditional mixture of ochre butter and herbs Kunene Village Rest Camp.................3 A3
of Khorixas, turn south on the D3254 and (Map p348; %064-203581, ask for radio 217; nomad@namibnet to protect themselves from the sun. Ohakane Lodge..................................4
Opuwo (Power Safe) Guesthouse.......5
B4
B3
continue 15km to a right turning signposted .com; camping per person US$4.50, d US$25; p) is quite There’s no public transport in the region Oreness Camp Site.............................6 B4
Twyfelfontein. It’s 5km to the site. simple, the friendliness, the views and the and hitching is near impossible, so the best way EATING
geology are sure to inspire. Turn east off the to explore Kaokoveld is with a well-outfitted Bakery................................................7 B4
Power Safe.........................................8 B4
Vingerklip D3704 at the Camp Aussicht signpost, 55km 4WD vehicle or an organised camping safari
The unusual Vingerklip lies on the Bertram north of Sesfontein; the final 5km requires a (see p397). In the dry season, the routes from DRINKING
2 Drankwinkel.......................................9 B4
farm, 54km east of Khorixas on the C39, then high-clearance vehicle. Opuwo to Epupa Falls, Ruacana to Okong-
21km south on the D2743. This towering Ever fancy spending the night in a Ger- wati (via Swartbooi’s Drift) and Sesfontein to SHOPPING
Kunene Crafts Centre.......................10 B4
35m-high pillar of limestone is an erosional man fort in the middle of the desert? At Fort Purros may be passable with high-clearance
remnant of a plateau formed more than 15 Sesfontein (%065-275534; www.fort-sesfontein.com; 2WD vehicles, otherwise, you’ll need 4WD.
million years ago. camping US$6, r per person incl breakfast US$100; ps), To Okongwati (111km);
Epupa Falls (175km)
Vingerklip Lodge (Map p348; %/fax 061-255344; you and 63 other guests can live out all your Opuwo
vingerkl@mweb.com.na; PO Box 11550, Windhoek; s/d bizarre colonial fantasies. %065
US$85/130; ps) affords spectacular views The road between Palmwag and Sesfontein Although it’s the regional ‘capital’, Opuwo is C43
that include the Vingerklip itself, and the is good gravel, and you’ll only have problems little more than a dusty collection of commer-
panorama from the bar recalls the famous if the Hoanib River is flowing. cial buildings ringed by traditional rondavels. 3
scenes of Monument Valley in old John Ford You’ll see lots of Himba and Herero people To Etanga (111km)
westerns. KAOKOVELD here; the going rate for a ‘people photo’ is
%065 about US$1, but many people will ask for
4WD
3
5

Sesfontein The northwest corner of the country rep- US$2. Please either respect local wishes or D3703 Only 1

%067 resents Namibia at its most primeval. The put the camera away.
Sesfontein (Six Springs), which seems remi- Kaokoveld (also known as the Kaokoland) To meet local artisans and purchase arts M
art
hi
niscent of the Algerian Sahara, is built around is a vast repository of desert mountains that and crafts, see the Kunene Crafts Centre (%273209; Athisari St
4
h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat).
8 9
a petrol station and a 1901 German fort. You’ll is crossed only by sandy tracks laid down by 7 6
4 C43
KK and Kemuu, the friendly guys at the Vi Thom St

Kaoko Information Centre (%273420; gnn@iway.na; M

10 2
SAVE THE RHINO TRUST PO Box 217; h8am-6pm), provide direction and To Sesfontein
(146km)
bu
m t To Ruacana (140km);
b ija a S Kamanjab (242km)
zo Ma h a r u k u
The group Save the Rhino Trust (SRT; www.rhino-trust.org.na) was formed by a concerned group guides for your trip through the Kaokoveld
C41
of individuals in order to cease illegal poaching. Since the trust was formed, it has actively col- region. Ohakane Lodge runs half-day visits
laborated with both the Namibian government and local communities in order to provide security to Himba villages (from US$22) and camp-
for the rhino, monitor population size and bring benefit to the locals through conservation and ing trips around Kaokoveld, including Epupa and is relaxed and comfortable choice featuring
tourism initiatives. Falls (from US$105 per day). Book tours at a shady camp site and rustic bungalows.
Save the Rhino Trust operates in Damaraland, a sparsely populated region that is lacking in least a week in advance. Kunene Village Rest Camp (%273043; camping per
resources and deficient in employment opportunities. As a result, SRT has worked to include person US$5, s/d huts with shared bathroom US$16/20; p)
locals in conservation efforts in the hope that they will benefit from the preservation of the SLEEPING & EATING This amenable rest camp has well-groomed
species. This is especially important as Damaraland does not have a formal conservation status, Opuwo (Power Safe) Guesthouse (%273036; camping camp sites with adequate facilities as well as
and thus does not receive government funding. To date, SRT has successfully protected the only per person US$4, dm US$9; p) Offers camping on the basic thatched huts. Follow the signposted
free-ranging black rhino population in the world, and allowed the group to expand in size. In green lawn, pleasantly cool dorms and kitchen turn-off from the government housing project
fact, the International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN) has identified the population facilities. Coming from the south, turn left at at the edge of town, en route to Sesfontein.
as the fastest growing in Africa. the BP petrol station then take the next right; Ohakane Lodge (%273031; ohakane@iafrica.com
For visitors interesting in tracking black rhinos through the bush, SRT operates the exclusive turn left after the hospital and it’s several .na; s/d US$40/55; pas) The most established
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
Palmwag Rhino Camp (Map p348; %061-225178; www.wilderness-safaris.com; s/d luxury tent low season houses down on the right (look for the large lodge in town is your best bet if you need
US$445/630, high season US$530/800), a joint-venture with Wilderness Safaris. Accommodation is in reeds and fence). modern amenities such as air-con, cable TV,
eight East Africa–style linen tents with en-suite toilets and hot-water bucket showers. Rates in- Oreness Camp site (%273572; camping per person Western-style furniture and a pool.
clude all meals, wildlife drives and rhino-tracking excursions. Prebooking is essential, and 4WD US$4, bungalows per person with shared bathroom US$15; p) You’ll find the Opuwo equivalent of quick
transfers and air charters are available. This French-owned camping ground occupies culinary delights at the bakery beside the
a compound immediately east of the centre, petrol station on the main road, which sells
 352 N O R T H W E S T E R N N A M I B I A • • K a o k o v e l d Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com N O R T H W E S T E R N N A M I B I A • • K a o k o v e l d 353

hot showers and flush toilets that are main- the Skeleton Coast Wilderness, has been
BEYOND THE CLICHÉS: A TRAVELLER’S PERSPECTIVE Ian Ketcheson tained by the local community. There’s designated as the Kaokoveld Conservation
It’s hard to write about the Himba in a way that doesn’t sound like a cliché or a bad National a less-crowded overflow section east of its Area.
Geographic article. They are the widely photographed subject of many travel brochures and glossy neighbour, Omarunga Camp. A large number of 4WD tracks cross the
coffee-table books. They are often portrayed as an ‘early people’ who have lived untouched by Epupa Camp (Map p348; %695102, reservations 061- area, but some that appear on maps are now
outside influence for thousands of years. Their practice of smearing red ochre over their bodies, 232740; epupa@mweb.com.na; PO Box 26078, Windhoek; s/d impassable, or may be used only during dry
and their not-so-modest attire of leather miniskirt and loin cloths, has also made them quite US$135/205) This place, 800m upstream from periods (mainly due to flooding of the poten-
popular on the tourist circuit for those wishing to travel to a remote corner of the continent for the falls, was originally used as an engineering tially raging Hoarusib River).
a glimpse of ‘traditional’ Africa. camp for a now-shelved hydro project. It has Obvious destinations include the wild
While these stereotypes might seem at first glance to be accurate, the reality is much more been converted into a beautifully situated camp Otjinjange (also called Marienflüss) and Hart-
complex. The Himba have only lived in this part of Namibia for about 200 years. After being on where rates include tented accommodation mann’s Valleys, both of which end at the
the losing end of many ethnic battles during the 18th and 19th centuries, this group of people with meals, drinks and activities (including Kunene River. From Okongwati, follow the
managed some success on the battlefield in the late 19th century, stole a bunch of cattle and Himba visits, sundowner hikes, bird-watching westward route through Etengwa to Otjitanda,
goats, and headed off to the remote northwestern corner of the country where they could finally walks and trips to rock-art sites). where you can choose between the dramatic
get some peace and quiet – at least until the tourists started turning up. Epupa village now boasts a real supermar- and treacherously steep Van Zyl’s Pass (which
As for their attire, it’s just a sign of the lack of success that Christian missionaries have had ket where visitors and locals alike buy food may only be traversed from east to west) or
in colonising the Himba. One of the top priorities of missionaries across Namibia (and beyond) staples or gather to socialise and drink a cold head south over the equally beautiful but
was to convince people that the first thing a ‘civilised’ person could do was to put on hot, un- beer in the shade. much easier Otjihaa Pass towards the scenic
comfortable and expensive clothes. After they had ‘proper’ clothes, all they had to do was get desert country around Orupembe. About 9km
a ‘real’ (read Christian) name, exchange their mistresses for wives, and sit through long church GETTING THERE & AWAY north of Orupembe, a track turns north and
services. Next stop, heaven. From Opuwo or Swartbooi’s Drift, it’s pos- follows a broad valley to a fork where you can
Although the Himba are also widely portrayed as victims of the steady march of modernisa- sible to drive to Epupa Falls via Okongwati in choose between Hartmann’s and Otjinjange
tion, their leaders have shown themselves to be quite adept at dealing with the outside world. a high-clearance 2WD, but the route remains Valleys; note that wild camping is prohibited
In the late 1990s the Namibian government was moving ahead with plans to dam Epupa Falls in very rough. Via the Kunene River road, it’s in either valley.
order to reduce the country’s dependence on imported electricity. The plan would have flooded 93km to Epupa Falls from Swartbooi’s Drift. An easier but equally spectacular route
large areas of Himba land and posed a major threat to their way of life. Chief Kapika, the Himba Even with a 4WD vehicle it takes at least 12 leads westward from Sesfontein through a
leader for the area bordering the falls, with the assistance of some of the top lawyers in the hours, but this lovely stretch – known as the series of desert valleys to the tiny settlement
country, mounted a campaign of opposition to the scheme that included a high-profile trip to Namibian Riviera – serves as an increasingly of Purros, on the Hoarusib River. A logical
Europe where he spoke to foreign investors, nongovernmental organisations and activists. Chief popular hiking route. circuit heads south from Purros to the river
Kapika quite successfully managed to shine an international spotlight on his cause, attracting junction known as Amspoort, then northeast
attention and generating support to help in their fight against the government. In recent years, Swartbooi’s Drift back to Sesfontein via the Hoanib riverbed.
the dam proposal has fallen through, and it’s unlikely that the government will raise the issue %065 Note that the Hoanib lies within the Palmwag
again in the near future. From Ruacana, a rough track heads west Concession, and access costs US$7 per vehicle
along the Kunene to Swartbooi’s Drift, where plus US$2.50 per person per day, payable
Ian Ketcheson lived in Namibia for two years in the village of Odibo. a monument commemorates the Dorsland at Elephant Song Camp. Wild camping is
trekkers who passed en route to their future possible anywhere away from the Hoanib
homesteads in Angola. riverbed.
doughnuts, yogurt, beer, bread and renowned out and is ushered through a 500m-wide series Kunene River Lodge (Map p348; %274300; www
sausage rolls. The best-stocked supermarket of parallel channels, dropping a total of 60m .kuneneriverlodge.com; camping per adult US$12, s/d hut SLEEPING
is the Power Safe, and the Drankwinkel next over 1.5km. The greatest single drop – 37m – US$65/100, s/d hut incl breakfast, s/d US$110/150; ps), Okarohombo Camp Site (Map p348; Otjinungwa; camping
door sells soft drinks and alcohol. is commonly identified as the Epupa Falls, 5km east of Swartbooi’s Drift, makes a lovely, per person US$4; p) This community-run camp
where the river tumbles into a dark, narrow leafy riverside stop. You can hire canoes site is located at the mouth of the Otjinjange
GETTING THERE & AWAY cleft. During periods of low water flow, the (US$12), fishing gear (US$8.50) and moun- Valley. Facilities are limited to long-drop toi-
There’s currently no public transport to pools above the falls make fabulous natural tain bikes (US$12), and organise a range of lets and a water tap, and travellers must be
Opuwo, but minibus taxis may be hired from Jacuzzis. Here you are safe from crocodiles quadbiking tours (from US$47) and white- self-sufficient.
Ruacana or Outjo for a negotiated rate. The in the eddies and rapids, but be sure to hang water rafting trips on the Kunene River (from Elephant Song Camp (Map p348; %064-403829;
most economical option for visiting Opuwo on to the rocks and keep away from the lip US$47). Hoanib River track, PO Box 339, Swakopmund; camping per
and the surrounding Himba villages would be a of the falls, where there’s a real risk of being person US$4, bungalows per person US$8; p) In the
budget safari from Windhoek; a recommended swept over; swimming here isn’t suitable for The Northwest Corner Palmwag Concession a very rough 25km
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
company is Enyandi Safaris (see p397). young children. West of Epupa Falls lies the Kaokoveld of down the Hoanib River from Sesfontein, the
travellers’ dreams: stark, rugged desert peaks, Elephant Song offers hot showers, great views,
Epupa Falls SLEEPING & EATING vast landscapes, sparse scrubby vegetation, hiking, bird-watching and the chance to see
%065 Epupa Falls public camp site (Map p348; camping per drought-resistant wildlife and semiperma- rare desert elephants. There is a bar, but other-
At this dynamic spot, whose name means ‘fall- person US$4; p) This enclosed camp, right at nent settlements of beehive-shaped Himba wise, you’ll have to be self-sufficient. Access
ing waters’ in Herero, the Kunene River fans the falls, can get very crowded, but it has huts. This region, which is contiguous with is by 4WD only.
 354 N O R T H W E S T E R N N A M I B I A • • S k e l e t o n C o a s t Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com C E N T R A L N A M I B I A • • S w a k o p m u n d 355

Ngatutunge Pamwe Camp Site (Map p348; camp- are permitted and visitors may not cross the Day visits are not allowed, but transit per- Skeleton Coast Wilderness
ing per person US$4, double bungalows US$20; ps) low barrier between the seal-viewing area and mits (US$2.50 per person and US$2.50 per The Skeleton Coast Wilderness makes up the
Perched along the Hoarusib River in Purros, the rocks where the colony lounges. vehicle) for the road between the Ugabmund northern half of the Skeleton Coast Park. Here,
this community-run camping area is a real For keen hikers, a new 40km trail begins at and Springbokwater gates are available at the seemingly endless stretches of foggy beach are
surprise – there are hot showers, flush toi- the southern end of Henties Bay and follows Springbokwater and Ugabmund checkpoints. punctuated by rusting shipwrecks and the cries
lets, well-appointed bungalows, a communal the coast south to Jakkalsputz (Jackals’ Well), You must enter through one gate before 1pm of gulls and gannets. The most commonly
kitchen and (believe it or not!) a pool. then back north to the Omaruru River Mouth. and exit through the other before 3pm the visited sites lie around Sarusas Springs, near
Serra Cafema Camp (Map p348; %061-225178; Highlights include the sand dunes, freshwater same day. Transit permits can’t be used to Wilderness Safaris’ Skeleton Coast Wilder-
www.wilderness-safaris.com; 4-day fly-in s/d US$3900/5900; springs and fields of desert lichen that flank visit Torra Bay or Terrace Bay, but in Decem- ness Camp (Map p348). Other sites of interest
s) This exclusive luxury camp is centred the route. ber and January transit travellers may refuel include the coastal dunes, the Cabo Frio seal
on a grove of Albida trees overlooking the in Torra Bay. colony, the Clay Castles in Hoarusib Canyon and
Kunene River, and consists of eight canvas SLEEPING All park accommodation must be pre- the Roaring Sands.
and thatched chalets with en-suite bathrooms. Along the salt road in the National West Coast booked through NWR in either Windhoek A lone park ranger at Möwe Bay maintains
Although you’re going to pay dearly for the Recreation Area are several bleak beach camp or Swakopmund. a small museum of shipwreck detritus and
privilege to stay at Serra Cafema Camp, the sites used mainly by sea anglers. Basic camp newspaper clippings recounting the stories
unworldly isolation of the camp almost just- sites (see Map p348) at Mile 14 and Jakkalsputz UGAB RIVER HIKING TRAIL of shipwreck survivors.
ifies the price tag. Advance bookings are cost US$15 for two people plus US$2 for each The 50km Ugab River guided hiking trail
mandatory. additional person, including showers and crosses the coastal plain before climbing into SLEEPING
drinking water, while Mile 72 and Mile 108 hills and following a double loop through Skeleton Coast Wilderness Camp (Map p348; %061-
SKELETON COAST cost US$12 for two people plus US$2 for each fields of lichen and past caves, natural springs 274500; www.wilderness-safaris.com; s/d for 4 days
The term ‘Skeleton Coast’ is derived from additional person, without water. and unusual geological formations. Groups US$2586/4372, for 5 days US$2966/4932) Located close
the treacherous nature of the coast – a foggy Myl 4 Caravan Park (Map p348; %064-461781; camp- of three to eight people can leave from Ugab- to Sarusas Springs, this exclusive luxury re-
region with rocky and sandy coastal shallows ing per site US$4, plus per person US$2, plus per vehicle US$2 mund at 9am on the second and fourth Tues- treat is the most remote camp in the Wilder-
that has long been a graveyard for unwary & for electricity US$1, 6-bed bungalows US$45, 2-bed self- day of each month. It costs US$24 per person ness Safari collection. Activities include
ships and their crews. Early Portuguese sailors catering r US$15, 4-/6-bed self-catering flats US$30/45) This and must be prebooked through the NWR in viewing desert elephants along the Hoarusib,
called it As Areias do Inferno (the Sands of bleak beachfront camping ground 6km north Windhoek (p315). Hikers must provide and ocean fishing, dune climbing, hiking through
Hell) as once a ship washed ashore, the fate of Swakopmund is exposed to the wind, sand carry their own food and camping gear. the Clay Castles and appreciating the sparse
of the crew was sealed. and drizzle. Having said that, it’s definitely local vegetation. Rates include accommoda-
Although it has been extrapolated to take one of the world’s more unusual places to TORRA BAY tion, air transfers from Windhoek, meals,
in the entire Namib Desert coastline, the pitch a tent. The camping ground (camping for 4 people US$12; hDec drinks and two activities per day. Prebooking
Skeleton Coast actually refers to the coastal De Duine Country Hotel (%061-374750; www.namibia & Jan only) here is open to coincide with Nam- is mandatory.
stretch between the mouths of the Swakop lodges.com; per person incl breakfast US$45; pas) The ibian school holidays. Petrol, water, firewood
and Kunene Rivers. For our purposes, it cov-
ers the National West Coast Recreation Area
and the Skeleton Coast Park (including the
most established hotel in Henties Bay sits on
the coast, though not a single room has a sea
view – go figure that! However, the German-
and basic supplies are available, and campers
may use the restaurant at Terrace Bay. CENTRAL NAMIBIA
Skeleton Coast Wilderness). These protected colonial style property does feature rooms with TERRACE BAY Central Namibia is defined by the barren
areas stretch from just north of Swakopmund swimming pool and garden views. The more luxurious Terrace Bay Resort (s/d and desolate landscapes of the Namib Desert.
to the Kunene River, taking in nearly two Cape Cross Lodge (Map p348; %064-694012; www US$60/85, self-catering ste for up to 8 people US$265; p) The Nama word ‘Namib’, which inspired the
million hectares of dunes and gravel plains .capecross.org; s/d from US$175/265; pa) The odd ar- attracts mainly surf anglers, but there’s also a name of the entire country, rather prosaically
to form one of the world’s most inhospitable chitecture is self-described as a cross between nice line of dunes to the north. means ‘Vast Dry Plain’. Although travellers to
waterless areas. Cape Dutch and fishing-village style, but it’s Namibia and Botswana are often surprised
quite amenable and well sheltered from the UGAB RIVER SAVE THE RHINO TRUST by the lushness of the Kalahari, the soaring
National West Coast Recreation Area odiferous seal colony. The lodge is located just CAMP sand dunes of the Namib rarely disappoint.
%064 before the official reserve entrance. Located just outside the Skeleton Coast Park, Much of the surface between Walvis Bay
A 200km-long, 25km-wide strip from Swakop- the Ugab River Camp Site (Map p348; ugab@rhino-trust and Lüderitz is covered by enormous linear
mund to the Ugab River, the National West Skeleton Coast Park .org.na; camping per person US$4; p) is administered dunes, which roll back from the sea towards
Coast Recreation Area makes up the south- At Ugabmund, 110km north of Cape Cross, by the Save the Rhino Trust (see the boxed the inland gravel plains that are occasionally
ern end of the Skeleton Coast. It’s extremely the salt road crosses into the Skeleton Coast text, p350). This remote landscape is truly interrupted by lone mountain ranges.
popular with anglers, and no-one needs a Park. Only the zone south of the Hoanib River enigmatic, and those who’ve visited have only
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
permit to visit. is open to individual travellers, and everyone glowing comments. It’s also one of the best SWAKOPMUND
Most visitors head for the Cape Cross Seal requires a permit (US$2.50 per person and places in Namibia to see the elusive black %064
Reserve (Map p348; admission per person US$3 & per vehicle US$2.50 per vehicle). To reach the accom- rhino – multiday rhino-tracking expeditions Often described as being more German than
US$3; h10am-5pm), a breeding reserve for thou- modation options at Terrace Bay or Torra Bay, cost US$90 per day. To get there, turn east Germany, Swakopmund (population 25,000)
sands of Cape fur seals. There’s a basic snack you must pass the Ugabmund gate before 3pm onto the D2303, 67km north of Cape Cross; is a quirky mix of German-Namibian residents
bar with public toilets. No pets or motorcycles or the Springbokwater gate before 5pm. it’s then 76km to the camp. and overseas German tourists, who feel right at
ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
ὄ ὈὈ
ὄ
356 C E N T R A L N A M I B I A lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com C E N T R A L N A M I B I A • • S w a k o p m u n d 357

CENTRAL NAMIBIA 0 50 km home with the town’s pervasive Gemütlichkeit, MEDICAL SERVICES
0 30 miles
a distinctively German appreciation of comfort Bismarck Medical Centre (%405000; Bismarck St)

ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὄὄ
ὄὄ
Tsaobis Daan Viljoen
A Rössing Uranium B Leopard C Game Park 1 D and hospitality. With its seaside promenades, For doctors’ visits, see the recommended Drs Swiegers,

er
To Henties Bay (20km); Mine Sanctuary Tsaobis Liebig WINDHOEK

d
Wlotzkas
half-timbered homes and colonial-era build- Schikerling, Dantu and Biermann, all at this centre.

Riv

lan
Haus Neuheusis

r
Baken Cape Cross (66km)

ve
Witwatersberg Fort von C23

ch
Ri

op
(1861m) François ings, it seems that only the wind-blown sand

Ho
an

ak
B2 Kupferberg

Sw
Bosua
Kh
Brack
1 Pass
Grootberg
C28
Pass and the palm trees distinguish Swakopmund MONEY
Swakopmund Us
(1846m) Pass from holiday towns along Germany’s North The most convenient option for changing
Bird Island Us
Sea and Baltic coasts. money is the Bureau de Change (Sam Nujoma Ave;

ὄ ὄ
ὈὈὈὈὈ as
Pelican C28

om
Point
Walvis Bay Swakopmund is Namibia’s most popu- h7am-7pm), which charges no commission

Kh
Rooikop
C14
Gamsberg
Pass
lar holiday destination, and it attracts surf- to change travellers cheques – the catch is
Ganab
Sandwich Rooibank
Pan Kuiseb
Pass Gamsberg Rehoboth
ers, anglers and beach lovers from all over that you’ll need the slips verifying proof of
Hamilton
Harbour
Marine Hills C26
Gamsberg (2347m) Southern Africa. However, Swakopmund has purchase.
Kuiseb
Reserve Anichab
Klipneus
Mirabib Canyon Isabis B1 recently reinvented itself as the adventure-
Sandwich Isabis
Harbour Topnaar Gaub
River 4WD Trail Tropic of Capricorn sports capital of Namibia, and now attracts POST

ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὄὄ
4WD Trail
2 Gaub
Pass C14
10 Kobos adrenaline junkies jonesing for a quick fix. Main post office (Garnison St)
Topnaar Nauchas
Community Kuiseb Rive
r Spreetshoogte C24 Whether you race through the sand sea in a
Pass
See Namib-Naukluft Park Map (p368)
Nauzerus
Klein Aub quad bike, slide down the dunes on a greased- TELEPHONE
Black Cliff
Solitaire
6
7 Remhoogte up snowboard, jump from a Cessna with a Main post office (Garnison St) Sells rechargeable
Pass
5 Rietoog Schlip
To Mariental
(108km)
parachute strapped to your back or live out telephone cards and also offers fax services (per page
Conception Bay Tsondab
Namib-Naukluft Park River See Naukluft Mountains
Map (p370)
your Lawrence of Arabia fantasies on a camel US$0.50, plus per telephone unit US$0.15).
Edward River

ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὄὄ
ὄ Ὀὄὄ
Namib Restcamp Kalf
Bolen
Shipwreck
2 safari, there’s no shortage of gut-curdling
The Sand Büllsport
Dune Sea
12 er
Gamis activities to choose from. TOURIST INFORMATION
Middelpos Naukluft
Namib i Information Centre (%/fax 403129;
Riv

C14
C21

r
See Sesriem &
Orientation

ve
3 swainfo@iafrica.com.na; Sam Nujoma Ave, PO Box 829;

Ri
Meob Bay Sossusvlei Map (p372) Sukses 11 Nadaus Pack riem
h8am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon & 3.30-5.30pm
b

Sesriem 14 The streets in Swakopmund were recently

ha

Sesriem sa uc
Canyon 9 T 4 renamed, which means that navigation can Sat, 9.30am-noon & 3.30-5pm Sun) This centre is helpful.
Witwater be extremely difficult if you’re using an old Namibia Wildlife Resorts (NWR; %204172; fax

ὈὈὈὈὈ
Ὀ
ὄ ὄ
Voorspoed
Sossusvlei 8
3 Hu
dup
C19
street map. The map in this edition contains 402697; Woermannhaus; h8am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-
Maltahöhe Ri
Steinfeld Kalkhugel
ve
r the new street names. Fri) This office is also useful, selling Namib-Naukluft Park
NamibRand
Witberg
Nature
Tsarishoogte Bossiesvlei
and Skeleton Coast permits until 3.30pm. Note that park
Black Rock Reserve
13 Nubib
Pass Information permits are no longer available from petrol stations in
St Francis Bay Silvia
Bushman
Hill
BOOKSHOPS Swakopmund and Walvis Bay – they must be purchased
Duwisib
4 Hill Guinasibberg (1690m) 1 Castle CNA bookshop (Roon St) Sells popular paperbacks. either from this office or in Windhoek (p315).

ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὄὄὄ
(678m)
East
Chowagasberg
Gorasis Dina Die Muschel Book & Art Shop (%402874; 10
(2063m) Betta
Easter Point
Oyster Cliffs
Hill Satanskop C14
Roon St) More esoteric works on art and local history are Sights
Black Cliffs
Awasibberge Springbokvlakte Spes Bona
available here. HISTORIC BUILDINGS
Knoll Point Hauchab (1752m) Huams
Swakopmunder Büchhandlung (%402613; Sam Swakopmund is brimming with picturesque
North Point Schwarzerberg
(1922m) Nujoma Ave) A wide selection of literature from various historic buildings; a good source of infor-
ATLANTIC Spencer Bay genres. mation is Swakopmund – A Chronicle of the

ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὄὄ ὄ
Helmeringhausen
OCEAN
Dolphin Head Clara Hill Town’s People, Places and Progress, sold at the
Mooifontein
Saddle Hill C13
EMERGENCY museum and in local bookshops.
Konkiep

5 Gibraltar
Groot
Tirasberg
Ambulance (%405731) The imposing, fortlike Alte Kaserne (Old Bar-
Hottentot Bay Coastways Ko
Fire brigade (%day 402411, after-hours pager racks; Bismarck St) was built in 1906 by the railway
Hottentot Point 4WD Trail Koichab icha
Depression
b Rive r Neisip 405544) company, which got Swakopmund’s economic
Ri

Douglas Bay Aris

Police (%10111) ball rolling by completing the pier two years
ve

Glockenberg
r

(1148m)
Marshall Rocks Khoichab
Bethanie
C14
earlier. It now houses the Hostelling Inter-
Pan Dikwillem
Kirchberg
(1139m) (1732m) INTERNET ACCESS national Hostel.
Asbospan To Keetmanshoop
Dumfudgeon
Rocks
Rechenburg
(953m)
B4 Garub
Aus Swakopmund I-Café (Woermann & Brock Centre; per hr The Kaiserliches Bezirksgericht (State House; Am
Tsaukoib
Kolmanskop Haalenberg Ausweiche
Schakalskuppe
Ausnek
Guibes Goageb US$2; h7am-10pm Mon-Sat, 10am-10pm Sun) Zoll St), which originally served as the Dis-
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
Lüderitz
Rotkop Diamond Area I
(Prohibited Area) trict Magistrate’s Court, was designed by
Grasplatz
6
INFORMATION Desert Homestead & Horse Trails...4 C3 Swartfontein Mountain & Guest Desert
LAUNDRY Carl Schmidt in 1901 and constructed the
Tok-Tokkie Trails......................... 1 C4 Namib-Naukluft Lodge...................5 C2 Lodge.......................................10 C2 Swakopmund Laundrette (%402135; 15 Swakop St; following year. It was extended in 1905 and
Solitaire Country Lodge..................6 C2 Tsauchab River Camping.............11 C3
SLEEPING Solitaire Guest Farm.......................7 C2 Weltevrede Rest Camp................12 C3
wash up to 6kg US$1.30, dry US$0.80; h7.30am-mid- a tower was added in 1945. After WWI, the
Büllsport Guest Farm....................2 C3 Sossusvlei Mountain Lodge............8 C3 Wolwedans Dune Lodge............. 13 C4 night Mon-Fri, 8am-8pm Sat & Sun) Opposite the Hansa building was modified to serve as an official
Camp Mwisho.............................3 C4 Sossusvlei Wilderness Camp...........9 C3 Zebra River Lodge........................14 C3
Brewery; doubles as a local bar and entertainment centre. holiday home of the territorial administrator.
 358 C E N T R A L N A M I B I A • • S w a k o p m u n d lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com C E N T R A L N A M I B I A • • S w a k o p m u n d 359

In keeping with that tradition, it’s now the prisoners occupied less opulent quarters to

Fagin's Pub..................................(see 42)

Hostel......................................(see 13)

Hotel Europa Hof.........................(see 30)

Hotel Schweizerhaus....................(see 43)

Private Bar....................................(see 31)

Private Bar ...................................(see 31)

Sam's Giardino Hotel..................... 38 D3

Centre......................................(see 23)

Cape to Cairo...............................(see 31)

Captain's Tavern Pub...................(see 23)

Hansa Hotel...................................33 C3

Hotel Adler....................................34 A4

Pension Rapmund..........................36 A3
Prinzessin-Rupprecht Heim.............37 A3

Villa Wiese.....................................41 C2

Blue Whale Café............................42 C4

Cafe Anton....................................43 A2

Lighthouse Pub & Cafe..................45 A2

Model/Pick & Pay Supermarket.....46 C4

Oasis Bistro....................................48 C3

Out of Africa Coffee Shop.............50 C3

Swakopmund Brauhaus................. 51 C4
Tug................................................52 A3
Western Saloon Pizzeria................. 53 C4

African Café...................................54 C2

O'Kelley's......................................55 C4
Karen's Attic...................................35 B2

Secret Garden Guesthouse.............39 B3

Swakopmund Rest Camp...............40 B4

Kücki's Pub.....................................44 B3

Napolitana......................................47 B3

Restaurant..................................49 B3

Rafter's Action Pub.........................56 B3

Bus Stop.....................................57 B3
0.3 miles
500 m

official Swakopmund residence of the execu- one side. Note that it still serves as a prison

Swakopmund Hotel & Entertainment

Hostelling International (HI) Youth
tive president. and is considered a sensitive structure, so
Designed by Otto Ertl, the gabled Altes photography is not permitted.
Amtsgericht (Garrison St) was constructed in 1908 The colonial company Otavi Minen und
F

Original China Tong Hua

as a private school. However, when the funds Eisenbahn-Gesellschaft (OMEG) oversaw

InterCape Mainliner
ran out, the government took over the project the rich mines around Otavi and Tsumeb

TRANSPORT
and requisitioned it as a magistrates’ court. In in North-Central Namibia. As there was a

DRINKING
the 1960s it functioned as a school dormitory, connection to the coast by a narrow-gauge

EATING
and now houses municipal offices. Just so its railway in the early 1900s, the company also
identity isn’t left to question, the words Altes maintained an office in Swakopmund. Until
Namibia Wildlife Resorts..............(see 24)

Living Desert Snake Park..............(see 21)

Public Library...............................(see 24)

Otavi Bahnhof.............................(see 21)

Sam Cohen Library.......................(see 21)

Swakopmund Military Museum...(see 24)
Bismarck Medical Centre..................1 A3
Bureau de Change...........................2 C4
Charly's Desert Tours.......................3 A3
CNA Bookshop................................4 C4

Die Muschel Book & Art Shop..........6 C4

Namib i Information Centre.............8 C4

Pleasure Flights................................9 C4
Swakopmund Laundrette...............10 A4
Swakopmunder Büchhandlung...... 11 C4
Swakopmunder I-Café...................12 C4

Alte Gefängnis (Old Prison)............13 C1

Hansa Brewery...............................16 A4

House).......................................18 A2

National Marine Aquarium.............20 A4

OMEG House................................21 C3

Swakopmund Museum..................22 A2

Woermannhaus.............................24 A3

A4
C3

A3

A4
Desert Explorers Adventure Centre...5 B3

Main Post Office..............................7 B2

Alte Kaserne...................................14 B3
Altes Amtsgericht...........................15 B2

Hohenzollern Building.....................17 B3

Kristall Galerie.................................19 B2

Train Station (Bahnhof)..................23 B2

B1
B2
B3

B3
Amtsgericht are painted across the building. 1910, the OMEG House (Sam Nujoma Ave) served as a
0
0

Alte Brücke Rest Camp.................. 25

Atlanta Hotel.................................26
Brigadoon.......................................27
Cooke's House...............................28
Desert Sky Backpackers..................29
Dunes Lodge..................................30
Grüner Kranz..................................31
Gull's Cry.......................................32
The ornate train station (Bahnhof) was built warehouse. Next door is the Otavi Bahnhof, the
in 1901 and declared a national monument old train station for the Tsumeb line, which is

Kaiserliches Bezirksgericht (State

E

in 1972. It was originally constructed as the slated to house a Transport Museum (it wasn’t
terminus for the Kaiserliche Eisenbahn Ver- open at the time of writing). The complex
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

waltung (Imperial Railway Authority) railway, now houses the Sam Cohen Library (h9am-1pm
INFORMATION

which connected Swakopmund with Wind- & 3-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-12.30pm Sat), with 2000 titles
hoek. When this state railway was closed in on local history, and the Living Desert Snake Park

SLEEPING
1910, the building assumed the role as the (%0811 205100; admission US$2; h9am-1pm & 2.30-5pm
main station for the narrow-gauge mine rail- Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat), which houses an array of
way between Swakopmund and Otavi. It now serpentine sorts. Here you’ll learn everything
Camel Farm (12km);
Rössing Mine (55km);
Trekkopje (112km);
Windhoek (363km)

To (Alternative)
Space (800m)
To Swakopmund
Asparagus Farm (15km);

houses the Swakopmund Hotel & Entertain- you’d want to know – or not know – about
D

ment Centre. snakes, scorpions, spiders and other widely

὆὆὆὆὆
὆὆὆὆὆὆὆
὆὆὆὆὆
B2

The 1906 baroque-style Hohenzollern building misunderstood creatures. Feeding times are
38

Old German
Cemetery (cnr Moltke & Libertine Sts) was originally intended 10am and 12.30pm.
St
to be a hotel. Its outlandish décor is crowned
Nonidas
by a fibreglass cast of Atlas supporting the
Station

NATIONAL MARINE AQUARIUM

Train

To The Dunes
Nujoma Av

world, which replaced the precarious cement The National Marine Aquarium (admission adult/child
42

9
26
(1km)

Südring
὆὆
Roon St version that graced the roof prior to renova- US$3.50/1.80; h10am-4pm Tue-Sun), on the water-

50 m
46
a Ave
51 2 8

tions in 1988. front, provides an excellent introduction to

33

4
Sam

Sam Nujom

Especially picturesque is the 1905 Woer- the cold offshore world in the South Atlan-
Daniel Tjongarero St
41

er St
Windhoek
13
C

50

mannhaus (Bismarck St), which over the years has tic. Most impressive is the tunnel through
St

St
German Evangelical

St
11
21

ring
ngarero

Leutwein

Nord
0
Lutheran Church

served as the main offices for the Damara the largest aquarium, which allows close-up
54
Schlosser St
Caravan Park (6km);

53

St
Salt Works (7km)

6
55

St
Lüderitz
er & Namaqua Trading Company, a hostel for views of graceful rays, toothy sharks (you can
Daniel Tjo

ht Moltke St
To Myl 4

48

ac
12
St

l
ch merchant sailors, a school dormitory, and literally count the teeth!) and other marine
ld

S
Fe

now, the public library. The prominent Damara beasties found on seafood platters around the
Sports
Club
Amatila St

SFC

lS
t Otavi St tower once served as a water tower and a country. The fish are fed daily at 3pm, which
aa
28
23

35
Bahnhof St

See Enlargement

Kr
B2

landmark for ships at sea and traders arriv- makes for an interesting spectacle.
31

To Langstrand (20km);

St
Maxuilili
Walvis Bay (35km)

Nathaniel ing by ox-wagon from the interior. In the

t
l S

n St
e

29

1920s it fell into disrepair, but was declared a

itt

KRISTALL GALERIE
7 Franciscan

47
M

Hospital

Woerman

Roon St
B

national monument and restored in 1976. It At this architecturally fascinating gallery

40
Lazarett St
49
19

44 57

now contains the Swakopmund Military Museum (%406080; www.kristallgalerie.com; Bahnhof St; admis-
C34

17

n St
Garniso
St

St (Bismarck St; admission US$1.30; h10am-noon Mon, Tue & sion US$2.50; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) are some of the
lee
St
27
ch

er Moltke St
Ko

s
Libertine

Rhode Al

Ne
15

Ludwig
Thu-Sat, 3-6pm Mon-Thu) and a gallery of historic world’s most incredible crystal formations,
56

14
39
Sea Breeze Guesthouse (4.5km);

paintings, and the tower (adult/child US$1.30/0.80) including the largest quartz crystal ever found.
Swakop St
SWAKOPMUND

25
24
Beach Lodge B&B (1km);

37
To Seagull B&B (500m);

3
45

St
10

Bismarck affords a splendid panorama over the town; The adjacent shop features some lovely items,
18

St
a Ave
Vineta Point (2km)

and
30
1
43

36

34

Str t
ll S
stop by the library and pick up a key. including mineral samples, crystal jewellery,
Sam Nujom
22

Zo
16

Am
The impressive Alte Gefängnis (Old Prison; Nor- and intriguing plates, cups and wine glasses
52
NAMIBIA

Strand St

NAMIBIA
32

dring) was designed by architect Heinrich Bause carved from local stone.
Beach

20
Palm
A

Arnold Shad Promenade and dates back to 1909. If you didn’t know
this building was a prison, you’d swear it SWAKOPMUND MUSEUM
The Mole

Jetty
The

was either an early German train station or In an old harbour warehouse near the light-
a health-spa hotel. In fact, the main building house, this museum (%402046; Strand St; museum@
2

3
1

was used only for staff housing, while the mweb.com.na; adult/student US$2/1; h10am-1pm & 2-5pm)
 360 C E N T R A L N A M I B I A • • S w a k o p m u n d lonelyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com C E N T R A L N A M I B I A • • S w a k o p m u n d 361

displays exhibits on Namibia’s history, eth- desert. African Adventure Balloons (%403455; the Brandberg, the dunes, the Skeleton Coast mature adults may feel a bit cramped, and
nology, flora and fauna. It also contains a flylow@mweb.com.na) offers a half-/full-hour flight and beyond. Rates start at around US$80 per there’s not a backpackers’ vibe (but it certainly
well-executed reconstruction of early colonial for US$140/190 per person, with a minimum person for a one-hour circuit, though prices is cheap).
home interiors and an informative display on of three people. vary according to the length of the flight and Desert Sky Backpackers (%402339; dsbackpackers@
the nearby Rössing Uranium Mine. the number of passengers on board. swakop.com; 35 Lazarett St; camping per person US$6, dm
CAMEL RIDES US$8, d US$24; pi) This centrally located back-
HANSA BREWERY If you want to play Lawrence of Arabia in the SKYDIVING packers’ haunt is an excellent place to drop
Aficionados of the amber nectar will want to Namib Desert, visit the Camel Farm (%400363; Ground Rush Adventures (%402841; www.skydiveswa anchor in Swakopmund. The indoor lounge
visit the Hansa Brewery (%405021; 9 Rhode Allee), h2-5pm), 12km east of Swakopmund on the kop.com.na; tandem jump US$160) provides the ulti- is simple and homey, while the outdoor picnic
which is the source of Swakopmund’s favour- D1901. Camel rides cost US$15 for half an mate rush, and skydiving in Swakopmund is tables are a nice spot for a cold beer and hot
ite drop. Free brewery tours – with ample hour. To book or arrange transport from sweetened by the outstanding dune and ocean conversation.
opportunity to sample the product – run on town, phone and ask for Ms Elke Elb. backdrop. The guys at Ground Rush have Grüner Kranz (%402039; swakoplodge@yahoo.com;
Tuesday and Thursday at 10am and 2pm if an impeccable safety record, and make even 7 Nathaniel Maxuilili St; dm US$7, s/d US$27/30; pi)
there are at least six participants; prebook at HORSE RIDING the most nervous participant feel comfort- This budget hotel is the epicentre of the ac-
the office on Rhode Allee near the corner of Okakambe Trails (%0811 246626) runs 1½-hour able about jumping out of a plane at 3000m tion in Swakopmund. The hotel is extremely
Bismarck St. horse-riding trips along the Swakop River to and freefalling for 30 seconds (1500m) at popular with overland trucks, so it’s a safe best
the Moon Landscape for US$45. It can also 220km/h! The price includes a 25-minute that the upstairs bar is probably bumping and
DUNES organise moonlight rides and rides along the scenic flight. grinding most nights of the week.
A short hike across the Swakop riverbed from beach and dunes. Karen’s Attic (%404825; kattic@iafrica.com.na; Daniel
town will take you into the dunes, where you QUAD-BIKING Tjongarero St; dm US$8; p) This quiet and low-key
can easily spend several hours exploring the ROCK CLIMBING Outback Orange (%400968; www.outbackorange.com; backpackers’ lodge offers simple yet comfort-
sand formations and their unique vegeta- If you want to climb or abseil on a 15m climb- rides from US$50) offers stomach-dropping tours able rooms as well as immaculate kitchen
tion. Alternative Space loans dune carts to ing tower, contact Walker’s Rock & Rope Adven- on quad bikes (motorcycle-style 4WD). In two facilities and a cosy communal TV lounge.
its guests, and several tour companies offer tures (%403122; walker@iafrica.com.na). Note that it hours, you’ll travel over 60km and race up and Gull’s Cry (%461591; rdowning@iafrica.com.na; camp
sandboarding and quadbiking (see the sec- is currently in the process of moving, and will down countless dunes. The safety-conscious sites US$9 plus per person US$2; p) This camping
tion opposite). eventually wind up in the desert somewhere owners tailor trips to ability, but if you’re ground sits right on the sand at the beach-
east of town. feeling comfortable, ask them to let you fly front, sheltered from the wind by lovely tamar-
Activities down one of the really big dunes. isk trees. It’s convenient to the city centre, but
After aspiring for years to become a dry ver- SANDBOARDING facilities are basic.
sion of Victoria Falls, Swakopmund is one of Sandboarding with Alter Action (%402737; www Tours Villa Wiese (%407105; www.villawiese.com; cnr Bah-
the top destinations in Southern Africa for .alter-action.com; lie-down/stand-up US$20/30) is cer- The most popular operators are Charly’s Des- nhof & Windhoeker Sts; dm US$14, d US$38; pi) This
extreme-sports enthusiasts. Although filling tain to increase your heart rate while going ert Tours (%404341; charlydt@mweb.com.na), Namib friendly and funky upmarket backpackers’
your days with adrenaline-soaked activities easy on your wallet (it’s by far the cheapest Tours (%404072), Turnstone Tours (%403123; www place is housed in a historic colonial mansion
is certainly not cheap, there are few places in trip in town). If you have any experience .turnstone-tours.com) and Swakop Tour Company complete with vaulted ceilings, rock gardens
the world where you can climb up, race down snowboarding or surfing, it’s recommended (%404088; proverb@mweb.com.na). The operators and period furniture, and draws a good mix of
and soar over towering sand dunes. that you go for the stand-up option. You’ll listed above don’t have central offices, so it’s overlanders and independent travellers.
Your one-stop booking agency for just be given a new snowboard, gloves, goggles best to make arrangements through your hos- Dunes Lodge (%463139; www.africandestinations
about every breathtaking activity you’d like and enough polish to ensure a smooth ride. tel or hotel. Hata-Angu Cultural Tours (%0812 .co.za; 12 Lazarett St; dm US$14, d US$43; pis)
to pursue is the Desert Explorers Adventure Centre The lie-down option (which makes use of a 515916; hata-angu@hotmail.com) operates tours to Although more expensive than other budget
(%406096; www.swakop.com/adv). Here you can greased-up sheet of masonite) requires much the outlying Mondesa township, where you’ll options, the Dunes Lodge features a number
organise sandboarding (US$30), ecologically less finesse but is equally fun. The highlight is visit a shebeen, eat at a traditional restaurant of attractive perks including an indoor pool
sensitive quad-biking (US$55), tandem sky- an 80km/h ‘schuss’ down a 120m mountain of and meet local people. Reactions to township and billiards table as well as traditional back-
diving (US$160), dolphin cruising (US$40), sand with a big jump at the end. Slogging up tours are always mixed – some individuals packers’ amenities including a communal
deep-sea fishing (US$60), hot-air ballooning the dunes can be rather taxing work, so you walk away feeling as if they’ve made a strong kitchen, internet, a TV lounge and laundry
(from US$130), dune parasailing (US$40), need to be physically fit and healthy (which connection, while others find the whole ex- service.
descending on the flying fox (cable slide) isn’t a bad idea anyway). Trips depart in the perience to be reminiscent of a human zoo. (Alternative) Space (%402713; nam0352@mweb.com
at Rössing Mountain (US$55), paragliding morning and last about four hours. The price Your experience depends ultimately on your .na; 46 Dr Alfons Weber St; suggested donation d US$25 incl
(US$55), horse riding (US$35), and kayak- includes equipment rental, transport to and attitude and your expectations for the trip. breakfast; pi) Located on the desert fringe,
ing (from US$15) in Walvis Bay. Check out from the dunes, instruction, lunch and beer this delightfully alternative budget choice is
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
Desert Explorers 10-minute introductory or soda upon completion. Sleeping run by Frenus and Sybille Rorich. The main
video, which describes what’s on offer. BUDGET attractions are the castlelike architecture,
SCENIC FLIGHTS Hostelling International (HI) Youth Hostel (%404164; saturation artwork and an industrial-scrap-
BALLOONING Pleasure Flights (%404500; www.pleasureflights.com.na) Alte Kaserne, Nordring St; dm US$4, d US$14; p) The recycling theme. The catch is that only ‘friends
Whenever life gets you down, just hold onto offers ‘flightseeing’ tours over the colourful salt ambience here is appropriately military (the of Frenus’ are welcome, but he’s a great guy
the thought of hot-air balloon rides over the works, Sandwich Harbour, Welwitschia Drive, building is the old German barracks), though and makes friends easily.
 362 C E N T R A L N A M I B I A • • S w a k o p m u n d Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com Book
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MIDRANGE Prinzessin-Rupprecht Residenz (%412540; www Swakopmund Hotel & Entertainment Centre most sought-after commodities (traditional
Swakopmund Rest Camp (%410 4333; www.swako .prinzrupp.com.na; 15 Lazarett St; s/d incl breakfast US$40/75; (%400800; www.legacyhotels.co.za; 2 Bahnhof St; s/d German-style beer) as well as excellently pre-
pmund-restcamp.com; Swakop St; 2-bed/4-bed fishermen’s p) Housed in the former colonial military US$125/195; pas) This posh, four-star hotel pared beef and seafood.
shacks US$17/27, 4-bed flats US$30, 4-bed A-frame huts hospital, this family-run pension contains a is located in the shell of the historic train sta- Lighthouse Pub & Cafe (%400894; Palm Beach;
US$43, self-contained 6-bed bungalows/flats US$53/58; lovely palm-fringed courtyard and features tion, and boasts a Mermaid Casino, a cinema, mains US$6-10) With a view of the beach and
p) This municipal rest camp was recently distinctly German-style hospitality. several restaurants, a large swimming pool, a crashing surf, the Lighthouse Pub & Cafe is
renovated, and now boasts some quite smart conference centre, a gymnasium and a spa. an atmospheric choice that serves up good-
accommodation. TOP END value seafood including kabeljou, calamari,
Alte Brücke Rest Camp (%404918; accomod@iml Brigadoon (%406064; brigadon@iafrica.com.na; 16 Ludwig Eating kingclip and lobster.
-net.com.na, The Strand; 6-person camp site US$25, s/d/tr/q Koch St; s/d US$60/70; p) This Scottish-run B&B BUDGET Cape to Cairo (%463160; 7 Nathaniel Maxuilili St; mains
chalet US$50/70/85/115; p) This upmarket version is comprised of four Victorian-style cottages Out of Africa Coffee Shop (%404752; 13 Daniel Tjon- US$7-12) The most popular tourist restaurant
of the Swakopmund Rest Camp features spa- with period furniture that occupy a pleasant garero St; snacks & meals US$2-4) This place has the in Swakopmund serves up a gourmet variety
cious camp sites with private braai pits and garden setting opposite Palm Beach. motto ‘Life is too short to drink bad coffee’, of dishes from across the continent. Its game
power points as well as fully equipped chalets Beach Lodge B&B (%400933; volkb@iafrica.com.na; and it does something about it by welcom- meats are exceptional, though vegetarians
featuring modern kitchens, full bathrooms, Stint St; s/d/tr/q US$60/75/90/105) This boat-shaped ing you in the morning with Namibia’s best will have no problem feasting here on hearty
TV lounges and private patios. place, which sits right on the beach sand, coffee. chapatis and other vegie treats.
Cooke’s House (%462837; cooksb.b@mweb.com offers some of the most unusual architecture Original China Tong Hua Restaurant (%402081; cnr Tug (%402356; mains US$7-12) Housed in the
.na; 32 Daniel Tjongarero St; s/d incl breakfast US$26/40; p) and best sea views in town (through your own Libertine & Roon Sts; mains US$2.50-5) If you’re looking beached tugboat Danie Hugo near the jetty,
Housed in a 1910 historic home, this three- personal port-hole!). If the beach is your bag, for a cheap alternative to Namibian or Ger- the Tug is an atmospheric, upmarket choice
bedroom inn is an excellent choice if you’re you can’t beat it. man fare, look no further than this Chinese for fresh fish and seafood, and is regarded by
looking for personalised attention at the hands Hotel Adler (%405045; adler@natron.net; 3 Strand St; greasy spoon. locals as the best restaurant in town.
of the delightful owners. standard s/d US$60/95; ps) This chic and mod- Western Saloon Pizzeria (%403925; fax 464176;
Seagull B&B (%405278; www.seagullbandb.com.na; ern hotel would probably feel more at home 8 Moltke St; pizzas US$3-5) This popular local spot Drinking
60 Strand St North; s/d from incl breakfast US$30/50; p) somewhere in German suburbia, though it is is famous for its enormous pizzas and its African Café (3B Schlosser St) Here you can choose
This well-priced B&B is run by an accommo- an excellent choice if you’re a fan of creature boisterous clientele. between live music at the jazz bar or dancing
dating Brit, and features a variety of uniquely comforts. Kücki’s Pub (%402407; Moltke St; meals US$3-6) This the night away at the adjacent disco.
decorated rooms that will suit a wide range Hotel Schweizerhaus (%400331; www.schweizer local haunt is a good choice for cheap pub Captain’s Tavern Pub (Swakopmund Hotel & Enter-
of travellers. haus.net; 1 Bismarck St; s/d incl breakfast from US$60/95; p) grub, which is all the better after a pint or two tainment Centre, Bahnof St) This upmarket tavern
Pension Rapmund (%402035; rapmund@iafrica This beachside hotel has a spectacular view of frothy Hansa. attracts highbrow clientele from the Swako-
.com.na; 6-8 Bismarck St; s/d incl breakfast from US$35/55; of the lighthouse, and offers German-style pmund Hotel, and sometimes has live music.
p) This friendly pension overlooks the rooms with regal wooden furniture and over- MIDRANGE & TOP END Fagin’s Pub (Roon St) This extremely popular,
promenade, and has a number of bright and looking either the ocean or the landscaped Oasis Bistro (%402333; 5 Moltke St; lunches US$3-5.50, down-to-earth watering hole is reminiscent
airy rooms – the more expensive have ocean courtyard. dinners US$5-8) This excellent bistro does im- of a US truckies’ stop, complete with jocular
views. Hotel Europa Hof (%405061; europa@iml-net.com.na; aginative breakfasts, lunches and dinners, staff, faithful clientele and evening videos of
Sea Breeze Guesthouse (%463348; www.seabreeze 39 Bismarck St; s/d/tr US$65/85/100; pa) This hotel including a variety of salads, crepes, gyros, your day’s adrenaline activities.
.com.na; Turmalin St; s/d incl breakfast US$35/65, self-cater- resembles a Bavarian chalet, and simply over- steaks and seafood specials. O’Kelley’s (Moltke St) Emphasises local disco
ing flat US$60; p) This reader-recommended flows with European atmosphere, complete Cafe Anton (%402419; Hotel Schweizerhaus, Bismarck music, dancing and billiards – this is the place
guesthouse is situated right on the beach with colourful flower boxes, aloof service, a St; US$4-6) This somewhat pretentious spot to go when you don’t want to go home and
approximately 4.5km north of town, and is German-style beer garden and European flags serves up superb coffee, apfelstrüdel (apple you’re too drunk to care.
an excellent option if you’re looking for a flying from the 1st-floor windows. strudel), kugelhopf (cake with nuts and raisins), Rafter’s Action Pub (cnr Moltke & Woermann Sts)
secluded retreat. The Italian owners have in- Sam’s Giardino Hotel (%403210; www.giardino mohnkuchen (poppyseed cake), linzertorte At Rafter’s, it’s a safe bet that the music is
credible design sense, which is evident the .com.na; 89 Lazarett St; s/d from US$90/105, ste US$125; (cake flavoured with almond meal, lemon always pounding, the strobes are always flash-
moment you enter. p) A slice of central Europe in the desert, and spices and spread with jam) and other ing and hot young things are strutting their
Secret Garden Guesthouse (%404037; secretgar Sam’s Giardino Hotel mixes Swiss and Italian European delights. stuff on the dance floor, regardless of the
den@iway.na; 36 Bismarck St; s/d/tr US$45/60/75; p) The hospitality and architecture while emphasis- Blue Whale Café (%0811 294018; Atlanta Hotel, Roon time of night.
‘secret garden’ is the lush, palm-fringed court- ing fine wines, fine cigars and relaxing in St; mains US$5-9) This popular lunch spot has Private Bar (Grüner Kranz, 7 Nathaniel Maxuilili St) Al-
yard in the centre of the guesthouse, which is the rose garden with a St Bernard named alfresco pavement seating, which is perfect though it’s certainly not private, the Private Bar
the perfect oasis if you’re in search of a little Mr Einstein. for people watching. upstairs in the Grüner Kranz is becoming the
solitude. Hansa Hotel (%400311; hansa@iml-net.com.na; Napolitana (%402773; 33 Nathaniel Maxuilili St; US$5- most popular tourist bar in Swakopmund.
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
Atlanta Hotel (%402360; atlantah@iafrica.com.na; 3 Roon St; s/d US$115/150; p) Swakopmund’s most 9) This quaint and romantic Italian bistro
6 Roon St; s/d US$45/65; p) Although the rooms established upmarket stand-by bills itself as specialises in gourmet pizzas and pasta as well Getting There & Away
are basic and slightly worn here, the Atlanta ‘luxury in the desert’; individually decorated as heartier meat and seafood dishes. AIR
is centrally located, and it’s upstairs (or an rooms are tasteful and elegant, the service is Swakopmund Brauhaus (%402214; 22 Sam Nujoma Air Namibia (%405123) flies between Eros Air-
easy stumble away) from the popular Fagin’s top-notch and its restaurant is arguably the Ave; mains US$5-9) This excellent restaurant and port in Windhoek and Swakopmund (US$90)
Pub (opposite). best in town. boutique brewery offers one of Swakopmund’s daily.
 364 C E N T R A L N A M I B I A • • A r o u n d S w a k o p m u n d lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com C E N T R A L N A M I B I A • • W a l v i s B a y 365

BUS AROUND SWAKOPMUND WALVIS BAY 0

0 1 mile
2 km

From Roon St, the Intercape Mainliner bus Rössing Uranium Mine

St
travels to and from Walvis Bay (US$8, 30 The world’s largest open-cast uranium mine, A B C D

na
a
ce
Walvis
Rössing Uranium Mine (%402046), 55km northeast

O
minutes) and Windhoek (US$14, 4¼ hours) Bay
on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sun- of Swakopmund, certainly merits a visit. The

17

18
th

th
Rd
day, with connections to and from South scale of operations is staggering and at full 1

Rd
16
ATLANTIC ve

th
Africa. capacity the mine processes about one mil- aA Dr

Rd
ba

15
OCEAN jo m
m 6

th
The Friday Star Line bus between Khorixas lion tonnes of ore per week. Three-hour mine Nu bu

14

Rd
m M To Dolfynpark Beach
Train Station

th
Sa lo Chalets (10km);
(US$8, 6½ hours) and Walvis Bay (US$2, tours (US$2.50) leave from Cafe Anton at o

Rd
ng 11 Bird Island (10km);
Na

12
St Long Beach
one hour) passes through Swakopmund, and Hotel Schweizerhaus in Bismarck St at 10am

th
th
11 Resort (15km);

Rd
12

10
Burning Shore (17km);
returns on Sunday. on the first and third Friday of each month; St

th
th Swakopmund (35km)

Rd
14

13
17 14
There are occasional combis between Swa- book the previous day at the museum. 13

th
16 5 B2 C14

Rd
3

Ge
kopmund and Windhoek (US$7, three hours)

Ha gob
St

in
To Dune 7 (6km):

ge Rd
5t
5t
h St
and Swakopmund and Walvis Bay (US$2, Welwitschia Drive & Moon Landscape St Rooikop Airport (10km);

12
h
1 h 10
7 6t ab

Rd

th
11
Rooibank (20km);
2 rir

th

Rd
45 minutes), which depart from the Engen A worthwhile excursion by vehicle or or- 15 Gu Solitaire (241km);

Rd
St Be
n Sesriem (317km)

9t
h
petrol station. ganised tour is to Welwitschia Drive, east 8t

h
eo St 4

Rd
Th St ion
St
of Swakopmund. The NWR office in Swa- th th Un
12 15
HITCHING kopmund issues entry permits and a leaflet Dr INFORMATION
ba
Hitching isn’t difficult between Swakop- describing the drive, with numbered refer- Walvis m Mola Mola Safaris..........................1 A2

Esp
Bay bu
M Spawning Ground..........................2 B2

lana
mund and Windhoek or Walvis Bay, but ences to ‘beacons’, or points of interest, along Lagoon
ng
olo Walvis i Tourist Bureau...................3 B2

de
Na
conditions can be rough if you’re heading the route. The drive can be completed in two SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
EATING
Adventures Pub & Grill.................11 C1
for Namib-Naukluft Park or the Skeleton hours, but allow more time to experience this To Walvis Bay Lagoon Bird Paradise..................................4 D2 Crazy Mama's..............................12 B2
(7km); Salt Works
Coast; hitchers risk heatstroke, sandblast- otherworldly landscape. The Welwitschia camp (10km); Sandwich
9 Walvis Bay Museum......................5 C2 Harry Peppar's.............................13
Probst Bakery & Café...................14
C2
C2
ing and hypothermia – sometimes all in the site (Map p368; up to 4 people US$10) at the Swakop 3 Harbour (56km)
SLEEPING Raft..............................................15 A2
Asgard House................................6 D1 Shoprite Supermarket...................16 B2
same day. River must also be booked through NWR in 8 Courtyard......................................7 A2
Swakopmund or Windhoek.

e
Esplanade Municipal Bungalows.....8 A3 TRANSPORT

ad
an
Lagoon Lodge................................9 A3 Air Namibia..................................17 B2

pl
TRAIN

Es
Spawning Ground........................10 B2 Intercape Mainliner Bus Stop........(see 3)
Overnight trains connect Windhoek with WALVIS BAY
Swakopmund (US$7, 9½ hours) and Walvis %064
Bay (US$3.80, 1½ hours) daily except Satur- Due to the city’s strategic location, Walvis Today, Walvis Bay boasts a tanker berth, a Sights & Activities
day. The three-times-weekly trains between Bay (population 54,000) has a long and sto- dry dock and container facilities as well as The Walvis Bay Museum (Map p365; Nangolo Mbumba
Walvis Bay and Tsumeb (US$7, 17½ hours) ried history of British and South African a lucrative salt works and fish-processing Dr; admission free; h9am-12.30pm & 3-4.30pm Mon-Fri),
also pass through Swakopmund. For rail or occupation. Since 1992, however, the city has industry. in the library, describes the town’s maritime
Star Line information, telephone Trans-Namib rested firmly in Namibian hands, and is the Unlike neighbouring Swakopmund, Walvis and natural history and archaeology.
(%463538). country’s second-largest city after Windhoek. Bay was snatched by the British years before About 10km north of town on the Swakop-
the German colonists could get their hands on mund road, look out to sea and you’ll see the
it. As a result, Walvis Bay is architecturally un- huge wooden platform known as Bird Island,
THE MARTIN LUTHER inspiring, and lacks the old-world ambience which was built to provide a roost and nesting
In the desert 4km east of Swakopmund, a lonely and forlorn steam locomotive languished for of its northerly neighbour. However, although site for sea birds and to provide 1000 tonnes
several years. The 14,000kg machine was imported to Walvis Bay from Halberstadt, Germany in most visitors fail to see the city’s charms, the of smelly bird guano annually.
1896 to replace the ox-wagons used to transport freight between Swakopmund and the interior. area around Walvis Bay is home to a number Dune 7 (Map p368) rises above the bleak
However, its inauguration into service was delayed by the outbreak of the Nama-Herero Wars, of unique natural attractions including one of expanses just off the C14, 6km northeast of
and in the interim, its locomotive engineer returned to Germany without having revealed the the largest flocks of flamingoes in the whole town; there’s a picnic site, but water is available
secret of its operation. of Southern Africa. only sporadically.
A US prospector eventually got it running, but it consumed enormous quantities of precious Three diverse wetland areas – the Walvis
local water. It took three months to complete its initial trip from Walvis Bay to Swakopmund Orientation & Information Bay Lagoon, the Bird Paradise and the Walvis Bay
and subsequently survived just a couple of short trips before grinding to a halt just east of Although some streets have been renamed Salt Works (Map p368; %202376) – together form
Swakopmund. Clearly, this particular technology wasn’t making life easier for anyone, and it was after Swapo luminaries, Walvis Bay streets, the single most important coastal wetland for
abandoned and dubbed the Martin Luther, in reference to the great reformer’s famous words to from 1st St to 15th St, run northeast to south- migratory birds in Southern Africa, annually
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
the Diet of Reichstag in 1521: ‘Here I stand. May God help me, I cannot do otherwise’. west. The roads, from 1st Rd to 18th Rd, run attracting up to 150,000 transient avian visit-
Although the Martin Luther was restored in 1975 and declared a national monument, over the northwest to southeast. ors. The 45,000-hectare Walvis Bay Lagoon,
past several decades it suffered once more from the ravages of nature. At the time of writing, The helpful Walvis i Tourist Bureau (Map p365; a shallow bay southwest of town, boasts about
the locomotive was in the process of being removed from the ground, and it is likely that it will %209170; fax 209171; Shop 6, Hickory Creek Spur Bldg, half the flamingo population of Southern
find a new home in a museum sometime in the near future. Theo-Ben Gurirab St; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) Africa, as well as pelicans, chestnut banded
provides visitor information. plovers, avocets, damara terns and curlew
 366 C E N T R A L N A M I B I A • • W a l v i s B a y Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com C E N T R A L N A M I B I A • • N a m i b - N a u k l u f t Pa r k 367

sandpipers, plus other migrants and waders. This recently renovated hotel is now under by day including potjies (stew) and braais, as Sossusvlei and the bird lagoon at Sandwich
Southwest of the lagoon is the salt works, new ownership, and is regarded as one of the well as a heavy dose of beer, booze and pool. Harbour.
a 3500-hectare complex that supplies over better hotels in Walvis Bay. Raft (Map p365; %204877; Esplanade; mains US$5-12) The main park transit routes, the C28, C14,
90% of South Africa’s salt and also attracts Lagoon Lodge (Map p365; %200850; www.lagoon This Walvis Bay institution sits on stilts off- D1982 and D1998, are open to all traffic, but
flamingoes with its mineral content; tours lodge.com.na; 2 Nangolo Mbumba Dr; s/d US$75/120, ste shore (though it looks more like a porcupine use of the minor roads (note that some minor
are available with advance booking. At the US$130; ps) This pastel-drenched French- than a raft), and has a great front-row view of routes require 4WD), picnic sites or sites of
municipal sewage works immediately east of run lodge commands a magnificent location the ducks, pelicans and flamingoes. interest require park permits (US$3.50 per
town, an observation tower overlooks a series next to the lagoon, and features individually person plus US$2.50 per vehicle). They’re
of shallow artificial pools, fringed by reeds, decorated rooms with private terraces facing Getting There & Away available at NWR offices in Windhoek, Swa-
and provides rewarding bird-watching. The out towards the flamingoes. AIR kopmund and Sesriem.
site is known locally as the Bird Paradise. Air Namibia (%203102) flies twice weekly between Camp sites in Namib Desert Park and Ses-
LANGSTRAND (LONG BEACH) both of Windhoek’s airports and Walvis Bay’s riem/Naukluft must be prebooked through
Tours Long Beach Resort (%203134; camping per site US$10, Rooikop Airport (US$85), 10km southeast of the NWR offices in Windhoek or Swakop-
Eco-Marine Kayak Tours (%203144, plus per person US$1, 2-/4-bed bungalows US$30/40; ps) town on the C14. mund. Permits for the Naukluft 4WD Trail,
jeannem@iafrica.com.na) Run by Jeanne Mientjes, this This municipal camp site is about as other- the multiday Naukluft hikes and day entry
company offers wonderful sea-kayaking trips around the worldly as you can get, particularly during BUS & COMBI to Sesriem/Sossusvlei are most successfully
beautiful Walvis Bay wetlands (US$20) as well as trips to a heavy fog or a sandstorm when the entire Intercape Mainliner has Monday, Wednesday, booked in Windhoek.
Pelican Point (US$35). property is reminiscent of a desert mirage. Friday and Saturday services from Windhoek
Mola Mola Safaris (Map p365; %205511; www.mola Dolfynpark Beach Chalets (%204343; gkruger@ (US$14, five hours) to the Spur Restaurant bus Sandwich Harbour
-mola.com.na; cnr Esplanade & Atlantic St) Runs an walvisbaycc.org.na; 2-/4-bed self-catering chalets US$30/50; terminal in Walvis Bay, via Swakopmund. This harbour (h6am-8pm), which is 50km south
extremely popular dolphin and seal cruise (US$40). ps) You couldn’t imagine a structure more Star Line has a Friday bus from Walvis Bay of Walvis Bay, historically served as a com-
Spawning Ground (Map p365; %204400; alien to its setting than this – kids will love the to Khorixas (US$20, 7½ hours); it returns on mercial fishing and trading port. Despite a
spawning@iafrica.com.na) Runs backpacker trips to Walvis pool and hydro-slide, while the parents will Sunday. Book at the train station. Book Star period of silting in recent years, it seems to be
Bay Lagoon, Dune 7 and Bird Paradise (US$20) as well as wonder how a water park can operate at the Line buses at the train station (%208504). recovering and the northern end of the lagoon
Pelican Point, Sandwich Harbour, Cape Cross and Wel- edge of a dune sea. Combis occasionally run to Windhoek continues to attract large numbers of migra-
witschia Drive (US$40). Burning Shore (%207568; www.burningshore.info; (US$7, three hours) via Swakopmund (US$2, tory birds. There are no visitor facilities – not
d standard/luxury/ste with full board US$165/215/335; p 45 minutes). even a camp site – and it’s accessible only
Sleeping as) This upmarket luxury retreat received with a sturdy 4WD high-clearance vehicle.
Accommodation is located either in the city a huge publicity boost in 2006 following Ange- HITCHING The final 20km is tricky and, depending on
centre or at Langstrand (Long Beach), which lina Jolie’s and Brad Pitt’s surprise trip to Hitching is easy between Walvis Bay and dune conditions, may involve timing your
is 10km north of Walvis Bay on the road to Namibia. If the Burning Shore is good enough Swakopmund, though you need to be pre- arrival with low tide in order to run down to
Swakopmund. for Hollywood, it’s probably good enough pared for rough conditions if you’re trying the sandy beach.
for you too. to thumb a ride to the Namib-Naukluft Park
CITY CENTRE or the Skeleton Coast. TOPNAAR 4WD TRAIL
Spawning Ground (Map p365; %204400; spawning@ Eating The 4WD trail from Walvis Bay through the
iafrica.com.na; cnr 8th St & 8th Rd; camping per person US$5, The best self-catering option is the Shoprite TRAIN sand sea to Sandwich Harbour, Conception
dm US$10, d US$25; pi) Owner, manager and Supermarket on Sam Nujoma Ave. The overnight rail service to Windhoek (US$9, Bay and the renowned Edward Bolen ship-
all-around great guy, Wayne, knows exactly Probst Bakery & Café (Map p365; %202744; cnr 11 hours) runs daily except Saturday. On Tues- wreck creates a challenge for 4WD enthusiasts.
how to create a great vibe – guests often check 12th Rd & 9th St; US$2-5) If you’re feeling nostalgic day, Thursday and Sunday northbound, it Only guided trips are available and while you
in for one night and check out days later. for Swakopmund, take comfort in knowing leaves for Tsumeb (US$7, 17½ hours) at 4.15pm, can use a private vehicle, it’s probably better
Asgard House (Map p365; %209595; www.gateway that Probst specialises in stodgy German fare: meeting a train from Windhoek at Kranzberg, to rent a Uri – a desert-adapted vehicle that
-africa.com/asgard; 72 17th Rd; s/d US$38/50; p) This pork, meatballs, schnitzel and the like. where carriages are added/exchanged. For is produced in Namibia. Currently, a six-day
quaint family-run guesthouse features a nice Harry Peppar’s (Map p365; %203131; cnr 11th Rd & info, phone Trans-Namib (%208504). camping trip covering the entire route costs
homey lounge, a tropical garden and a frog Nangolo Mbumba Dr; pizzas US$3-5) Harry comes up US$700 per person in your own vehicle and
pond (the frogs do their bit by eating the with all sorts of creative thick-crust pizzas, NAMIB-NAUKLUFT PARK US$950 in a rented Uri. Other options that
mosquitoes). and if you’re feeling lazy, he’ll deliver his mad The present boundaries of Namib-Naukluft cover parts of the route start at US$350/570 in
Esplanade Municipal Bungalows (Map p365; creations right to your hotel. Park, one of the world’s largest national parks, a private/rented vehicle. Book through Tour-
%206145; gkruger@walvisbaycc.or.na; 5-/7-bed bunga- Crazy Mama’s (Map p365; %207364; cnr Sam Nujoma were established in 1978 by merging the Namib ist Junction (%061-231246; www.touristjunction.com.na;
lows US$45/55; p) Perched on the Esplanade Ave & 11th Rd; mains US$3-6) The service and at- Desert Park and the Naukluft Mountain Zebra PO Box 1591, Windhoek).
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
between the dunes and the lagoon, this af- mosphere are great, the price is right and the Park with parts of Diamond Area 1 and bits of
fordable municipal-run rest camp comprises eclectic menu features fabulous pizzas, salads surrounding government land. Today, it takes Namib Desert Park
several bungalows featuring full kitchens and and vegetarian options. in over 23,000 sq km of desert and semidesert, The relatively accessible Namib Desert Park
braai pits. Adventures Pub & Grill (Map p365; %206803; 230 including the diverse habitats of the Namib lies between the canyons of the Kuiseb River in
Courtyard (Map p365; %206252; courtyrd@iafrica 12th St; meals US$3-7; h10am-late) This popular Desert Park between the Kuiseb and Swakop the south and the Swakop River in the north.
.com.na; 16 3rd Rd, s/d US$55/65, ste from US$75; ps) night spot serves up traditional Namibian fare Rivers, the Naukluft, the dune fields around Although it has a small area of linear dunes,
 368 C E N T R A L N A M I B I A • • N a m i b - N a u k l u f t Pa r k Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com C E N T R A L N A M I B I A • • N a m i b - N a u k l u f t Pa r k 369

NAMIB-NAUKLUFT PARK 0
0
40 km
20 miles
Vogelfederberg Camp Site (Map p368) is a Most visitors to the Naukluft come to hike
small facility 2km south of the C14 and makes one of the area’s two day-walks, the Water-

ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
To Henties Bay
A B C D a convenient overnight camp just 51km from kloof Trail or the Olive Trail. These day hikes
(10km)
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Homeb Camp Site........................6 B4 Walvis Bay, but it’s more popular for picnics need not be booked, but the amazing four-
C34
Dune 7.........................................1 A3
Walvis Bay Salt Works.................2 A3
Kriess-se-Rus Camp Site...............7
Kuiseb Bridge Camp Site..............8
C3
D4
or short walks. day and eight-day loops have more restric-
1 Mirabib Camp Site.......................9 C4 Ganab Camp Site (Map p368), ‘Camelthorn tions attached. Thanks to stifling summer
SLEEPING Rostock Ritz...............................10 D4
Bloedkoppie Camp Sites...............3 C2 Vogelfederberg Camp Site.........11 B3
Acacia’, is a dusty, exposed facility that sits be- temperatures and potentially heavy rains,
Ganab Camp Site.........................4 C3 Welwitschia Camp Site...............12 B2 side a shallow stream bed on the gravel plains. the multiday hikes are only open from 1

ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
Groot Tinkas Camp Site...............5 C2
Wlotzkas
Baken
It’s shaded by hardy acacia trees, and a nearby March to the third Friday in October, on
To Rössing Mine;
Usakos To Karibib
borehole provides water for antelopes. Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday of the first
Kriess-se-Rus Camp Site (Map p368) is a three weeks of each month. The price (US$12
Tsoabis Leopard
rather ordinary site in a dry stream bank on per person) includes accommodation at the
ver
Nature Park
Ri

B2
the gravel plains, 107km east of Walvis Bay Hikers Haven Hut on the night before and
an

r
ve
Kh Husab

Ri
Swakopmund 12 Mountains
ak
op on the Gamsberg Pass Route. It is shaded, but after the hike, as well as camping at trailside

ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
We Sw
2 l wit
isn’t terribly prepossessing and is best used shelters and the Ubusis Canyon Hut. In ad-
Dr sch ia Witwatersberg

Langstrand
Langer
Heinrich Nature simply as a convenient stop en route between dition, you’ll have to pay US$3.50 per person
Walk
Mountain To Windhoek via
Bosua Pass (141km) Windhoek and Walvis Bay. per day and another US$2.50 per day for each
Bird Island Dolfynpark
Pelican
C28
3 Klein 5 Kuiseb Bridge Camp Site (Map p368) is a vehicle you leave parked. Groups must be
Tinkas Middel
Point Walvis
1 Tinkas Grootberg
shady site at the Kuiseb River crossing on the three to 12 people.
Bay
Hotsas (1846m) C14 and is handy for breaking a trip between Due to the typically hot, dry conditions
2 Rooikop Water

ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
Oanin
Hole Gemsbokwater To Windhoek via Windhoek and Walvis Bay. The location is and lack of reliable natural water sources,
Water Hole Us Pass (185km)
Walvis
C14 scenic, but dust and noise from passing vehi- you must carry at least 3L to 4L of water per
Bay Lagoon Kuiseb 11 cles makes it less appealing than other sites. person per day – and use it sparingly.
Delta 4
3 D1982
Ganab Mirabib Camp Site (Map p368) is a pleas-
Pan er
Sandwich Rooibank
lls
Tumasberg
b Riv ant facility that accommodates two parties WATERKLOOF TRAIL
Harbour ise
Marine Hi Heinrichberg Ku at separate sites and is comfortably placed The lovely 17km Waterkloof Trail begins
Reserve Round on
beneath rock overhangs in a large granite at the Koedoesrus Camp Site and follows
t

D1998

ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
il

Dune Namib-Naukluft
m
Ha

Sandwich
Harbour
Anichab
Park 7
C14
Kuiseb
Pass
inselberg. There’s evidence these shelters were a counter-clockwise loop that takes about
Klipneus
Lagoon
8
C26 used by nomadic peoples as many as 9000 seven hours to complete. It first crosses a
Ku

Bokenkop
Sandwich To Windhoek via years ago, and also by nomadic shepherds in weir on the Naukluft River and climbs past a
ise

Eagle Kuiseb Gamsberg (198km)

Harbour
b

Shipwreck 9 Canyon the 4th or 5th century. series of pools offering refreshing swimming.
Ri

Mud
ve
r

Mirabib
Flats
Homeb Camp Site (Map p368), which can After climbing out of the canyon, 6km later,
4 r
Zebra Pan ive accommodate several groups, is located in a the trail turns west and traverses more open
Ga ub R Gaub
Shawnee Topnaar Tropic of Capricorn
Shipwreck 4WD Trail
Pass scenic spot upstream from the most acces- country. After the halfway mark, it climbs to
6 sible set of dunes in the Namib Desert Park. a broad 1910m ridge that affords fabulous
To Conception Bay; To Solitaire (25km); 10 Residents of the nearby Topnaar Khoikhoi desert views in all directions. It then descends
Edward Bolen Shipwreck Topnaar Community Naukluft
village dig wells in the riverbed to access water steeply into several inviting pools filled with
beneath the surface, and one of their dietary reeds and tadpoles before dropping past an
it’s characterised mostly by broad gravel plains Bloedkoppie Camp Site (Map p368), or staples is the !nara melon. impressive tufa waterfall and meeting up with
punctuated by abrupt and imposing ranges ‘Blood Hill’, has among the most beautiful the normally dry Naukluft River.
of hills. and popular sites in the park. If you’re coming GETTING THERE & AWAY
Although this area doesn’t support a lot of from Swakopmund, they lie 55km northeast There’s no public transport to any of these OLIVE TRAIL
large mammals, you may see chacma baboons, of the C28, along a signposted track. The sites, but the rare minibuses between Mari- The 10km Olive Trail leaves from the car park
as well as dassies, which like to bask on the northern sites may be accessed with a 2WD, ental and Walvis Bay pass within walking about 4km northeast of the park headquarters
kopjes (small rocky hills). but they tend to attract ne’er-do-wells who distance of Kuiseb Bridge, Kriess-se-Rus and and follows a four- to five-hour triangular
The Kuiseb Canyon, on the Gamsberg Route drink themselves silly and get obnoxious. The Vogelfederberg Camp Sites. route. The route begins with a steep climb
between Windhoek and Walvis Bay, is also southern sites are quieter and more secluded, onto the plateau, affording good views of the
home to klipspringers and even leopards. but can be reached only by 4WD. Naukluft Mountains Naukluft Valley. It then turns sharply east and
Spotted hyenas are often heard at night and Groot Tinkas Camp Site (Map p368) must %063 descends a kloof, which becomes deeper and
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
jackals make a good living from the springbok be accessed with 4WD, and rarely sees much The Naukluft Mountains, which rises steeply steeper until it reaches a point where hikers
herds on the plains. traffic. It enjoys a lovely setting beneath shady from the gravel plains of the central Namib, must traverse a canyon wall – past a pool –
rocks and the surroundings are super for na- is mainly a high-plateau area cut around the using anchored chains. Near the end of the
SLEEPING ture walks. During rainy periods, the brackish edges by a complex of steep gorges, forming route, the trail strikes the Naukluft 4WD route
The following camp sites must be booked water in the nearby dam attracts a variety of an ideal habitat for mountain zebras, kudus, and swings sharply south, where it makes a
through NWR in Windhoek (p315). bird life. leopards, springboks and klipspringers. beeline back to the car park.
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
370 C E N T R A L N A M I B I A • • N a m i b - N a u k l u f t Pa r k

NAUKLUFT MOUNTAINS 0
0
lonelyplanet.com

4 miles
8 km
Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com

without special permission from the rangers

at Naukluft.
C E N T R A L N A M I B I A • • N a m i b - N a u k l u f t Pa r k 371

Büllsport Guest Farm (Map p356; %693371;

www.natron.net/tour/buellspt; s/d with half board US$125/190;

ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
To Solitaire
(20km)
To Maltahöhe Conditions are typically hot and dry, and p) This scenic farm owned by Ernst and Jo-
(136km)
water is reliably available only at overnight hanna Sauber occupies a lovely, austere setting
stops (at Putte, it’s 400m from the shelter). below the Naukluft Massif, and features a ru-
Spring 4WD T
Quartz
rac k Hikers must carry at least 4L of water per ined colonial police station, the Bogenfels arch
Large Fig
Valley
Tufa Chain-Assisted
day. Eight-day hikers can lighten their packs and several resident mountain zebras.
Tree Shelter Ascent by dropping off a re-supply cache of food

ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
Tufa Cave

World's
Chain-Assisted
Ascent Groot
Hartseer
N
a
and stove fuel at Tsams-Ost Shelter prior to GETTING THERE & AWAY
u
Die Valle
Pool k
lu the hike. In four places – Ubusis Canyon, The Naukluft is accessible only with a private
4WD Tra Waterfall
above Tsams-Ost, Die Valle and just beyond vehicle or an organised tour.

Vie
ck Shelter

w
t
Bakenkop Tufa Shelter – hikers must negotiate dry
M

l
ai
ou waterfalls, boulder-blocked kloofs and steep Sesriem & Sossusvlei

Tr
D

Melkbos
nt 4W tufa formations with the aid of chains. Some %063

ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ t
ai

f
lu
Plain people find this off-putting, so be sure you’re Despite being Namibia’s number-one tour-

uk
ns

Na
up to it. ist attraction, Sossusvlei still manages to feel
Drilling
isolated. Hiking through the dunes, which
Machine
Pool
Spring NAUKLUFT 4WD TRAIL are part of the 32,000-sq-km sand sea that
with Off-road enthusiasts can now exercise their covers much of Western Namibia, is a sombre
Fonteinpomp Social Weavers' Chains
Nest machines on the new National Parks 73km experience. The dunes, which reach as high as
f Never

ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
oo Quivertree Naukluft 4WD Trail. The route costs US$24 325m, are part of one of the oldest and driest
Kl Ending
ia Ridge
rb Hills
per vehicle plus US$3.50 per person per day, ecosystems on earth. However, the landscape

er
o
ph

Riv
Eu s Olive Trail (1884 m)
n including accommodation in one of the four here is constantly changing – wind forever
t
luf
i

Large Moringa
a

Nauk
Tree stone-walled A-frames at the 28km point. alters the shape of the dunes while colours
t
n

Start of Naukluft
ou

Waterkloof
Trail Weir
4WD Trail Facilities include shared toilets, showers and shift with the changing light. If possible, try
M

To Büllsport
Tsams Ost
Shelter
Pools & Tufa
Falls
Naukluft (15km) braais. Up to four vehicles per 16 people are to visit Sossusvlei at sunrise when the colours
ft

Chain-Assisted Park
permitted at a time. Book through NWR in are at the peak of their brilliance.

ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
Headquarters
lu

Descent Four-Day Loop Koedoesrus

4W

Camp Site Windhoek. The gateway to Sossusvlei is Sesriem (Six

oo

Return Route
Na u k
D

Kl

Hikers'
To Sesriem; Track Haven Hut Thongs), named for the number of joined
Zebra

Solitaire Road Pools & Tufa

Old German Falls SLEEPING leather ox-wagon thongs necessary to draw
Cannon Rd
To Büllsport
Koedoesrus Camp Site (Map p370; camping for 2 people water from the bottom of the nearby gorge.
Kudu
Plains Heartbreak Elephant
Skin Path
(20km) US$12, plus for each additional person US$2; p) Pleas- Both Sesriem Canyon and Sossusvlei are
Pass
antly situated in a deep valley, it has running open year-round between sunrise and sun-

ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
Crassula Fontein
Corner Kloof
(Spring)
water, hot showers and flush toilets. It books set. If you want to witness the sunrise over
Social Weavers'
Nests Social Weavers' D854 out quickly and the maximum stay is three Sossusvlei – as most people do – you must
ack
Nest Putte
Shelter
nights. Firewood is sold at the park entrance stay at or near Sesriem. Otherwise, you can’t
Tr
D Wag-'n-Bietjie ranger office. pass the gate early enough to reach Sossusvlei
4W Chain-Assisted
Ascents & Descents Tsauchab River Camping (Map p356; %293416; before sunrise.
Bergpos
Cathedral
tsauchab@triponline.net; camping per site US$5, plus per

ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
Spring person US$5, 4WD exclusive camp US$8 plus per person US$6; SIGHTS
k
ac

Ubusis
p) If you’re an avid hiker or just love excel-
Tr

Canyon Sesriem
D

Hut
4W

Ubusis
Canyon lent settings you’re in for a treat. The shady The park headquarters, a small food shop,
named camp sites sit beside the Tsauchab a petrol station, the camp site and the Sos-
riverbed – one occupies a huge hollow tree – susvlei Lodge are all found at Sesriem. All
To Maltahöhe-Sesriem
and each has private ablutions, a sink and visitors headed for Sossusvlei must check in
Road (35km)
braai area. at the park office and secure a park entry
Zebra River Lodge (Map p356; %693265; www permit (US$3.50 per person plus US$2.50
FOUR-DAY & EIGHT-DAY LOOPS it the rest of the way back to park headquar- .zebrariver.com; s/d with full board US$115/200; p) Oc- per vehicle).
The two big loops through the massif can be ters. Alternatively, you can finish the four-day cupying a magical setting in the Tsaris Moun- The 2km-long and 30m-deep Sesriem Can-
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
hiked in four and eight days. The four-day, route at Tsams-Ost Shelter, midway through tains, this is Rob and Marianne Field’s private yon, 4km south of the Sesriem headquarters,
60km loop is actually just the first third of the the eight-day loop, where a road leads out Grand Canyon. The surrounding wonderland was carved by the Tsauchab River through
eight-day 120km loop, combined with a 22km to the Sesriem–Solitaire road. However, you of desert mountains, plateaus, valleys and the 15-million-year-old deposits of sand and
cross-country jaunt across the plateau back to must pre-arrange to leave a vehicle there be- natural springs is accessible on a network of gravel conglomerate. From the car park, you
park headquarters. It joins up with the Wa- fore setting off from park headquarters. Note hiking trails and 4WD tracks (guided drives can hike upstream to the brackish pool at its
terkloof Trail at its halfway point and follows that hikers may not begin from Tsams-Ost to the springs cost US$18). head or downstream to the canyon mouth.
ὄὄὄὄὄ
ὈὈὈὈὈ
372 C E N T R A L N A M I B I A • • N a m i b - N a u k l u f t Pa r k Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com Book
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SESRIEM & SOSSUSVLEI 0

0
16 km
10 miles place, which bears a strong resemblance to resembles a Bedouin camp amid the dunes.
what happens when squabbling children top- The biggest perk of staying at Kulala is its

ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὄὄὄὄὄ
Elim Dune Sesriem Camp Site
& Bar
Park Headquarters, Sossusvlei
ple a stack of coloured blocks, sits right at the private entrance to Sossusvlei, which means
Shop & Petrol Station Lodge
Sesriem To Solitaire
Sesriem Camp Site fence. People either love it that guests can easily enter the park before
Namib-Naukluft
Park
Airstrip (60km) or hate it, but it does make a statement. Pre- sunrise.
dawn transfer to Sossusvlei is possible as the Sossusvlei Wilderness Camp (Map p356; %061-
Sesriem
Canyon lodge is located within the park gate. 274500; www.wilderness-safaris.com; s/d with full board &
The Sand Kulala Desert Lodge (Map p372; %061-274500; www activities US$600/835; ps) If money is no object,

ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὄὄὄὄὄὄ
ὄὄ
ὄ
Dune Sea
.wilderness-safaris.com; s/d with full board US$345/475; then splash out at this exclusive tented camp,
ps) Located approximately15km south which is situated on a mountainous 7000-
Sossuspoort D826
Lookout of Sesriem on the banks of the Tsauchab, hectare private ranch about 40km southeast
Tsauchab
Crossing
Kulala
Desert
this refreshingly unobtrusive luxury retreat of Sesriem. Accommodation is in beautiful
Lodge
r
ab Rive r
Tsauch ve
Ri
Nara Vlei THE NAMIB DUNES
4WD 2WD b
Au
Car Park Car Park The Namib dunes stretch from the Orange to the Kuiseb Rivers in the south (this area is known
Sossusvlei
Dune 45 as the ‘dune sea’) and from Torra Bay in Skeleton Coast Park to Angola’s Croce River in the
Hidden To Maltahöhe (165km);
Helmeringhausen (283km)
north. They’re composed of colourful quartz sand, and come in varying hues – from cream to
Dead Vlei Vlei
orange and red to violet.
Unlike the ancient Kalahari dunes, those of the Namib are dynamic, which means that they
Dune 45 TOURS shift with the wind, and are continuously sculpted into a variety of distinctive shapes. The top
The most accessible of the red dunes along Most Namib-area lodges run day tours to Sos- portion of the dune, which faces the direction of migrations, is known as the slipface, and is
the Sossusvlei road is the 150m Dune 45, so susvlei, and prices are generally proportional formed as the sand spills from the crest and slips down. Various bits of plant and animal detritus
called because it’s 45km from Sesriem and 45 to the amount you’re paying for accommo- also collect here and provide a meagre food source for dune-dwelling creatures, and it’s here
dunes from Sossusvlei. For tour groups, it’s a dation. In addition, nearly every Namibian that most dune life is concentrated.
popular sunrise and bush breakfast venue. tour operator includes it in their itineraries; The following is a list of the major types of dunes found in the Namib:
see p397.
Sossusvlei & Around
Parabolic dunes: along the eastern area of the dune sea, including around Sossusvlei (p371).
Sossusvlei, a large ephemeral pan, is set amid SLEEPING & EATING The dunes are classified as parabolic or multicyclic, and are the result of variable wind pat-
red sand dunes that tower up to 200m above Pre-booking is mandatory at the lodges listed terns. These are the most stable dunes in the Namib, and therefore the most vegetated.
the valley floor and more than 300m over the following.
Transverse dunes: the long, linear dunes along the coast south of Walvis Bay (p364), which lie
underlying strata. This is the most accessible Sesriem Camp Site (Map p372; camping for 4 peo- perpendicular to the prevailing southwesterly winds. Therefore, their slipfaces are oriented
part of the 300km-long and 150km-wide sand ple US$20; p) Sesriem is the most convenient towards the north and northeast.
sea that contains the world’s highest, oldest camp site for Sossusvlei, though it must be
Seif dunes: around Homeb in the Namib Desert Park (p367), also known as linear dunes,
and arguably most picturesque dunes. The booked in advance at the NWR office in which are enormous northwest–southeast sand ripples. With heights of up to 100m, they’re
pan rarely holds water, but when the Tsauchab Windhoek (p315). However, you must arrive spaced about 1km apart and show up plainly on satellite photographs. They’re formed by
River has gathered enough volume and mo- before sunset or the camp staff will reassign seasonal winds; during the prevailing southerly winds of summer, the slipfaces lie on the
mentum to push beyond the thirsty plains to your site on a stand-by basis; anyone who northeastern face. In the winter, the wind blows in the opposite direction, which causes
the sand sea (as it did in 1997 and 2001), it’s was unable to book a site in Windhoek may slipfaces to build up on the southwestern faces.
transformed into a verdant oasis. get in on this nightly lottery. A small shop at

Star dunes: in areas where individual dunes are exposed to winds from all directions, a forma-
A rugged 5km return walk from Sossus- the office here sells snacks and cold drinks,
tion known as a star dune appears. These dunes have multiple ridges, and when seen from
vlei takes you to Dead Vlei, which, despite its and the camp-site bar provides music and
above may appear to have a star shape.
name, is even more impressive than its popu- alcohol nightly.
lar neighbour. Alternatively, from the 2WD Desert Homestead & Horse Trails (Map p356;
Barchan dunes: these dunes prevail around the northern end of the Skeleton Coast (p355)
car park, a rewarding 4km return hike marked %293243; www.deserthomestead-namibia.com; s/d/tr and south of Lüderitz (p379). These are the most mobile dunes as they are created by uni-
by white-painted posts leads to Hidden Vlei, an US$115/190/250 incl breakfast; ps) This reader- directional winds. As they shift, barchan dunes take on a crescent shape, with the horns of
unearthly dry vlei amid lonely dunes. recommended lodge specialises in horse the crescent aimed in the direction of migration. In fact, it is barchan dunes that are slowly
From Sesriem, take the 65km 2WD road riding through the Namib-Naukluft park. devouring the ghost town of Kolmanskop near Lüderitz. These are also the so called ‘roar-
to the 2WD car park; the last 4km to Sos- Whether you’re keen for a sundowner or ing dunes’ of the Skeleton Coast Wilderness area, which let out a haunting roar when air is
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
susvlei requires 4WD, so visitors with lesser an overnight desert ‘sleep-out’ ride, the pro- pressed out from the interstices between the sand granules on the slipface.
vehicles park at the 2WD car park and walk, fessional staff and exceptional horses at the
Hump dunes: typically form in clusters near water sources, and are considerably smaller than
hitch or take the Sossus 4WD Shuttle Service Desert Homestead will make your experience other dune types. They are formed when sand builds up around vegetation (such as a tuft of
(US$3.50/6 one way/return). If you’re walk- a memorable one. grass), and held in place by the roots of the plant, forming a sandy tussock. Generally, hump
ing, carry enough water for a hot sandy slog Sossusvlei Lodge (Map p372; %293223; www.sossus dunes rise less than 3m from the surface.
in the sun. vleilodge.com; s/d US$265/365; ps) This curious
 374 C E N T R A L N A M I B I A • • N a m i b - N a u k l u f t Pa r k Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N N A M I B I A • • R e h o b o t h 375

stone, timber and thatched bungalows nestled 8100-hectare Namib-Spreetshoogte Private canvas tents surrounding a rustic farmhouse, manus van Wyk. The town museum (%522954;
between rock outcroppings for maximum Nature Reserve. The lodge is in a 1900-era though the main attraction is the included admission US$1.50; h10am-noon & 2-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-
privacy – each bungalow features a private farmhouse constructed by a German colonial hot-air balloon ride over Sossusvlei. Guests noon Sat), which is housed in the 1903 residence
plunge pool. The camp is located 30km west soldier, though the stylish décor is Italian all depart from Mwisho at dawn, and watch the of the settlement’s first colonial postmaster,
of Sesriem near the junction between the the way. sunrise as you glide through the air high above recounts this history.
C36 and D845; chartered fly-ins can also be Namib-Naukluft Lodge (Map p356; %061-263082; the dunes. If you’re looking to rehabilitate your travel-
arranged. afex@afex.com.na; s/d with half board US$130/210; ps) Sossusvlei Mountain Lodge (Map p356; %27-11 809 worn body, consider spending a night at the
This modernist lodge located on a 13,000- 4300; www.ccafrica.com; r per person with meals & activities Reho Spa Recreation Resort (Map p376; %522774;
GETTING THERE & AWAY hectare farm 20km south of Solitaire occu- US$585; pas) This fashionable destination camping for 2 people US$12, plus for each additional person
Sesriem is reached via a signposted turn-off pies a boulder-strewn landscape. Rooms are frequently appears in Condé Nast as one of US$2, 4-/5-/6-bed self-catering bungalows US$24/27/35;
from the C19. You’ll find petrol at Solitaire, designed to be functional, though they’re still the top lodges in the world. The property is ps), which was originally known by its
Namib Rest Camp, Sesriem and a bush BP extremely plush. comprise of 10 chalets, which are constructed Nama name aris (smoke), after the steam
station 93km south of Sesriem on the D826. from locally quarried stone, and which appear that rose from ground. Book through NWR
EATING to blend effortlessly into the surrounding in Windhoek (p315).
Solitaire Area Adjacent to the petrol station is the Solitaire landscape. Another relaxing retreat is the Lake Oanob
Solitaire is a lonely and aptly named settle- Country Store, a warm and friendly spot that Wolwedans Dune Lodge (Map p356; %061-230616; Resort (Map p376; %522370; oanob@iafrica.com.na; km6
ment of just a few buildings about 79km north remains a favourite with travellers. If you’re www.wolwedans.com; s/d with full board & activities US$700/ D1237, PO Box 3381; camping per site from US$14-22, s/d
of Sesriem. Although the town is nothing just stopping here for petrol, be sure to step 900; pas) This elite, upmarket destination US$43/53, 6-bed chalets US$78-100, 8-bed chalets US$125-160;
more than an open spot in the desert, the area inside and visit Moose, who continues to bake features an architecturally arresting collection ps), which is situated next to the 2.7-sq-km
is home to several guest farms and lodges, the best bread and apfelstrüdel in Africa. of raised wooded chalets that are scattered lake created by the Oanab Dam just west of
which serve as an alternative base for explor- amid towering red sand dunes. town.
ing Sossusvlei. GETTING THERE & AWAY Intercape Mainliner buses running between
Solitaire is located 79km north of Sesriem Getting There & Away Windhoek and South Africa stop at Rehoboth,
SLEEPING along the A46. Access to the NamibRand Nature Reserve by as does the train between Windhoek and
Solitaire Guest Farm (Map p356; %062-572024; www private vehicle is restricted. Keetmanshoop.
.solitaireguestfarm.com; camping US$8.50, r incl breakfast per NamibRand Nature Reserve
person US$50; ps) This inviting guest farm,
located 6km east of Solitaire on the C14, is
a peaceful oasis situated between the Namib
Abutting the Namib-Naukluft Park, the
NamibRand Nature Reserve is the largest
privately owned property in Southern Africa.
SOUTHERN NAMIBIA HARDAP DAM RECREATION RESORT &
GAME PARK
The 25-sq-km Hardap Dam (per person US$2.50 plus
plains and the Naukluft Mountains. It was formed from a collection of private Southern Namibia takes in everything from per vehicle US$2.50; hsunrise-6pm), 15km north-
Solitaire Country Lodge (Map p356; %061-256598; farms, and protects over 200,000 hectares of Rehoboth in the north to the Orange River west of Mariental, offers good fishing and
www.namibialodges.com; camping US$8.50, s/d incl breakfast dunes, desert grasslands and wild, isolated along the South African border, and westward a 25,000-hectare wildlife park with 80km of
US$60/85; ps) This swish new lodge, located mountain ranges. Currently, several conces- from the Botswana border to the Diamond gravel roads and a 15km hiking loop. Hardap
next to the petrol station, offers 23 country- sionaires operate on the reserve, offering a Coast. The Central Plateau is characterised is Nama for ‘nipple’, and it was named after
inspired rooms that surround a grassy court- range of experiences amid one of Namibia’s by wide-open country, and the area’s widely the conical hills topped by the dolerite knobs
yard with a spotless swimming pool. most stunning and colourful landscapes. spaced and largely uninspiring towns func- dotting the area.
Weltevrede Rest Camp (Map p356; %293374; tion primarily as commercial and market Most travellers come here for Blue Lake,
camping for 3 people US$12, s/d with half board US$75/130; TOURS centres. This is rich cattle-ranching country, which breaks up the arid plateau landscape
ps) Willie and Zanne Swarts’ simple rest Tok-Tokkie Trails (Map p356; %061-264668 ext 5230, and around Mariental, citrus fruit and market and provides anglers with carp, barbel, mud-
camp, located 30km south of Solitaire, offers 061-235454; www.namibweb.com/tok.htm; per person per vegetables are grown under irrigation. Further fish and blue karpers. The lake also supports
shady camping and spacious bungalows amid day US$300) is a company that guides one- to south, however, the landscape opens up into countless species of water birds including
a lonely desert setting. four-day walking tours through the desert, seemingly endless desert plains, ranges and flamingoes, fish eagles, pelicans, spoonbills
Rostock Ritz (Map p368; %064-403622; kuecki@ dunes and mountains of NamibRand. The far horizons – and the surprising Fish River and Goliath herons.
mweb.com.na; s/d chalets US$115/180; ps) Estab- rate includes meals, equipment and a guide; Canyon forms a spectacular gash across the The Hardap Dam Rest Camp (Map p376; 2-bed bun-
lished by the owner of Kücki’s Pub in Swa- camping is under the stars and bucket show- landscape. galow US$28-30, 4-bed bungalow US$48, 5-bed bungalow
kopmund, this unique accommodation is ers are available. US$37-42, 4-bed luxury suite US$59, 12-bed dormitory US$48;
known for its bizarre water gardens and cool, REHOBOTH ps) offers a variety of accommodation, plus
cavelike cement-domed chalets. The Ritz is SLEEPING %062 a shop, restaurant, kiosk and swimming pool.
situated east of the C14, just south of the Pre-booking is mandatory at the lodges listed Rehoboth lies 85km south of Windhoek, and Make reservations through NWR in Wind-
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
C26 junction. below. Transfer by 4WD or a fly-in is arranged just a stone’s throw north of the Tropic of hoek (p315).
Swartfontein Mountain & Desert Guest Lodge in conjunction with your lodge reservations. Capricorn. The original German mission was To get to the resort and game park, take the
(Map p356; %062-572004; info@swartfontein.com; s/d Camp Mwisho (Map p356; %063-293233; namibsky@ abandoned in 1864, but the town was revived signposted turning off the B1, 15km north of
with half board US$125/225; ps) This Italian- mweb.com.na; s/d will full board plus hot-air balloon ride in the early 1870s by the Basters, an ethnic Mariental, and continue 6km to the entrance
run guest farm lies at the top of the 1850m US$465/580; pas) This intimate camp con- group of mixed Khoikhoi/Afrikaner origin gate. For cruises on the lake, contact Oasis
Spreetshoogte Pass, and is situated on the sists solely of four East Africa–style luxury who migrated north from the Cape under Her- Ferries (%240805, 243292).
ὈὈ
376 S O U T H E R N N A M I B I A lonelyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N N A M I B I A • • M a r i e n t a l 377

SOUTHERN NAMIBIA 0
0
100 km
60 miles
MARIENTAL Getting There & Away
%063 There’s no public transport to Duwisib Castle.

ὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ
To Windhoek (85km)
A 13
B Klein Nauas C D The small administrative and commercial If you’re coming from Helmeringhausen, head
Rehoboth Leonardville
Gamsberg
C26
Isabis 16
C25
C23 Tropic of Capricorn centre of Mariental sits on the bus and rail north on the C14 for 62km and turn northwest
Gaub River Derm
Aminuis lines between Windhoek and Keetmanshoop, on to the D831. Continue for 27km, then turn

BOTSWANA
Kobos Uhlenhorst
1 C14 Nauchas B1
C20
C22 and serves as a popular petrol stop. It’s also west onto the D826 and travel a further 15km

Ol
Klein Aub Oorwinning home to the large-scale Hardap irrigation to the castle.

ifa
Hoachanas

No
Remhoogte Hoop

n
Nauzerus C15
scheme, which allows citrus-growing and

ts

ss
Solitaire Pass C21 Bosduin

ὈὈ ob
Ὀ
Schlip
Diep Rive
r
Rietoog
Kalf River
Kalkrand Lidfontein
Aranos Ri
ostrich farming. MALTAHÖHE
%063
C20 ve
luf
t Büllsport Kuis r Naomi
If you get stuck for the night, the well-
uk ins Gamis Stampriet
Middelpos Na unta Naukluft
M o C14 C21
Hardap Dam
Witvley
Goricia established Mariental Hotel (%242466; mrlhotel@ Maltahöhe, in the heart of a ranching area,
Recreation

Ri
Sukses Nomtsas Akanous iafrica.com.na; Marie Brandt St; s/d US$50/60; pa) has has little to recommend it, but thanks to its

ve
Resort &

Au
Sesriem Ts Nadaus

r
Game Park 10

ob
auchab Ri
Namib ver Mariental
Lendepas
plush rooms with modern amenities as well convenient location along the back route be-

Ri
Desert C18
as a decent dining room. tween Namib-Naukluft Park and Lüderitz,
Rv
Voigtsgrund

ver
iver

ὈὈ Ὀ
Gochas
2 C19 er All trains, buses and minibuses between the area supports a growing number of guest
Fish R
Sossusvlei Tsarishoogte Maltahöhe
Hû
Lew
Pass 9 du
Kalkhugel
Witberg
(426m)
Namib
Rand Steinfeld Bossiesvlei
p
Rv Gibeon
Witbooisvlei Windhoek and Keetmanshoop pass through farms and private rest camps.
Nature
Reserve
Gibeon Station
Bulwana
Mariental. Hotel Maltahöhe (%293013; s/d US$25/40; p) has
Bushman Persip
Hill C14 Aurus B1 Twee
Rivier
won several national awards for its amenable
Eindpaal
Chowagasberg
(2063m) 1
Asab
Mukurob C15 DUWISIB CASTLE accommodation. It also has a restaurant and
Spes Bona
Schwarzerberg Eidsemub
Wegdraai %063 bar, and organises good-value day trips to
Tira

Awassibberg (1922m) Brukkaros

This castle (Map p376; %066-385303; admission US$2.50;

ὈὈὈὈὈ Ὀ
(1752m)
Huams Lichtenfels Station
Katzies Sossusvlei (p371).
sber

Brukkaros h8am-1pm & 2-5pm), a curious baroque structure Located 2km south of Maltahöhe, Daweb
ge

(1586m) C98 Tses Shirley Koës

Namib-Naukluft
Helmeringhausen
Berseba
5
C17
70km south of Maltahöhe, was built in 1909 Guest Farm (Map p376; %293088; daweb@natron.net;
3 Mooifontein C11
Park
14
by Baron Captain Hans-Heinrich von Wolf. camping per person US$4, s/d with half board US$35/45;
Garinais
Koi chab
C13 C14 Kokerboom
Forest Kubis North After the German-Nama Wars, he commis- p) is a working cattle ranch that offers ac-
sioned architect Willie Sander to design a commodation in a lovely Cape Dutch–style
Ko

River Neisip Gaibis

2 Giant's
nki

Kirchberg Aris
(1139m) Garub Pan Playground Gross Aub
castle that would reflect his commitment to farmhouse. Guests are invited to participate

Ὀ
Blumtal
ep

wild horse 15 C16

Bethanie
viewing hide Keetmanshoop the German military cause. in guided walking or 4WD expeditions in the
B4 Aus
Goageb B4 Seeheim en
Rv
Aroab
Although the stone for the castle was quar- surrounding countryside.
Lüderitz w
12 Lö ried nearby, much of the raw material was Travel in this region typically requires a
Hu

Riv

Kolmanskop Narubis
imported from Germany, and required 20 private vehicle or a well-oiled thumb (and a
ib

Augub Aukam Naute

er

Nordeck
-H

(1490m) Dam Vredeshoop

Elizabeth Bay
oc

ox-wagons to transport it across the 330km good measure of patience).

ins
h

Rooipunt
Pl

4 at Gondwana
nt a

Gross C13 e au 8 Cañon B1 of desert from Lüderitz. Artesans and ma-

ὈὈ Ὀ
ou

Pomona Münzenberg Tsaraxaibis

(720m)
Park
sons were hired from as far away as Ireland, HELMERINGHAUSEN
M

Hope 7
%063
6 C11 Davignab
DIAMOND AREA 1 Hobas 11 Denmark, Sweden and Italy. The result was
as
e

Bogenfels (Sperrgebiet -
rg

C12
r
h River

Ka

a U-shaped castle with 22 rooms, suitably Tiny Helmeringhausen is little more than
be

Prohibited Area) Witputs

ns
Fo

Grünau
Hu

Rooiberg
fortified and decorated with family portraits a homestead, hotel and petrol station, and
rb

Nanzes
(1122m) r
id

Fis

ive and military paraphernalia. Rather than win- has been the property of the Hester family
de

Fish River Canyon C10 R Nuwefontein

Chamais National Park 4
n

Ai-Ais Karasburg
dows, most rooms have embrasures, which since 1919. The highlight is the idiosyncratic
C

Rosh Pinah
mchab
Nama B3
oa

Boegoeberg
Canyon Ga Ariamsvlei
emphasise Von Wolf’s apparent obsession Agricultural Museum (%283083; Main St; admission
st

(502m) Selingsdrif Ha
m
er

r
ive Ri with security. free; hon request), established in 1984 by the
Riv

Richtersveld R ve
5 Aussenkehr r
National
ib
Warmbad Helmeringhausen Farming Association. It
er

ge Park
Ha Sleeping
Riv

n
ATLANTIC O ra
Velloorsdrift
displays all sorts of interesting old furniture
m

Oranjemund 3
Duwisib Castle Rest Camp (Map p376; camping for 4 people and farming implements collected from local
Ho

OCEAN Alexander Bay Noordoewer

River Onseepkans
Vioolsdrif Orang e US$13). This very amenable camping ground properties, as well as an antique fire engine
Pella
N
14 occupies one corner of the castle grounds; from Lüderitz.
Mission
N
7 SOUTH Station Pofadder the adjoining kiosk sells snacks, coffee and Helmeringhausen Hotel (%233083; s/d incl break-
Port Nolloth
AFRICA cool drinks. Bookings are through NWR in fast US$40/45; p) is a friendly and pleasant coun-
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Steinkopf
Windhoek (p315). try hotel with a restaurant and bar. The food is
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
Duwisib Castle................................1 B3
Cañon Lodge...................................6 C4 Hobas Information Centre & Camp
Farm Duwisib (Map p376; %223994; duwisib@iway.na; excellent, the beer is always cold and there’s a
6 SLEEPING Cañon Roadhouse...........................7 C4 Site..........................................11 C4 r per person with half board US$35) Located 300m from well-stocked cellar. However, even those who
//Garas Park..................................2 C3 Canyon Adventures Guest Farm.......8 C4 Klein-Aus Vista.............................12 A4
Abiqua Camp.................................3 C5 Daweb Guest Farm...........................9 B2 Lake Oanob Resort.......................13 B1
the castle, this pleasant guest farm has rustic like game meat may feel uncomfortable being
Ai-ais Hot Springs Resort................4 B5 Duwisib Castle Rest Camp..............(see 1) Namtib Biosphere Reserve............14 A3 self-catering rooms for two to four people. watched by all those accusing trophies.
Brukkaros Community Campsite....5 C3 Farm Duwisib.................................(see 1) Quivertree Rest Camp..................15 C3
Camel Lodge................................(see 3) Hardap Dam Rest Camp.................10 C2 Reho Spa Recreation Resort..........16 B1 While you’re there, be sure to check out the Helmeringhausen is 130km south of Mal-
historic blacksmith shop up the hill. tahöhe on the C4.
 378 S O U T H E R N N A M I B I A • • B r u k k a r o s Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N N A M I B I A • • A u s 379

BRUKKAROS drive, there is some noteworthy accommoda-

With a 2km-wide crater, this extinct volcano tion in the area, especially if you’ve yet to FERAL DESERT HORSES
dominates the skyline between Mariental photograph Namibia’s most famous tree, the On the desert plains west of Aus live some of the world’s only wild desert-dwelling horses. Among
and Keetmanshoop. It was formed some 80 kokerboom (quiver tree). the several theories about the origins of these eccentric equines is the one that suggests they’re
million years ago when a magma pipe en- descended from German Schutztruppe cavalry horses abandoned during the South African inva-
countered ground water about 1km below the Sights sion in 1915. Others claim they were brought in by Nama raiders moving north from beyond the
earth’s surface and caused a series of volcanic The most prominent example of colonial Orange River. Another tale asserts that they’re descended from a load of shipwrecked horses en
explosions. From the car park, it’s a 3.5km architecture is the 1910 Kaiserliches Postampt route from Europe to Australia. Still others maintain they’re descended from the stud stock of
hike to the crater’s southern entrance; along (Imperial Post Office; cnr 5th Ave & Fenschel St). The town Baron Captain Hans-Heinrich von Wolf, the owner of Duwisib Castle, who set off for Germany in
the way, watch for the remarkable quartz forma- museum (%221256; admission free; h7.30am-12.30pm search of more horses but was killed in battle in France and never returned to Namibia.
tions embedded in the rock. From here, you & 2.30-4.30pm Mon-Fri), housed in the 1895 Rhenish At present, the population fluctuates between 150 and 160, but there have never been more than
can head for the otherworldly crater floor or Mission Church, outlines the history of Keet- 280 individuals. Their only source of water is Garub Pan, which is fed by an artificial borehole.
turn left and follow the southern rim up to the manshoop with old photos, early farming
abandoned sunspot research centre, which was implements, an old wagon and a model of a
established by the US Smithsonian Institute traditional Nama home. via Upington. The Engen station, opposite, Sleeping
in the 1930s. The area surrounding Keetmanshoop is serves as the bus terminal for minibuses to Klein-Aus Vista (Map p376; %258021; www.namibhorses
Brukkaros Community Campsite (Map p376; camping home to large concentrations of kokerbooms, and from Windhoek, Lüderitz and Noor- .com; camping for 2 people US$20, 10-person hut per person
per person US$3, day visits US$1.25; p) offers camping which belong to the aloe family and can grow doewer. Star Line buses to Lüderitz (US$9, five US$30, s/d US$75/130, s/d chalet US$130/200; pas)
with toilets and a bush shower, but campers to heights of 8m (see the boxed text, left). hours) depart from the train station at 7.30am This 10,000-hectare ranch, located 3km west
must supply all their own water. Monday, Wednesday and Friday. of Aus, is a hiker’s paradise – the highlight of
Brukkaros rises 35km west of Tses, on the Sleeping & Eating Overnight trains run Sunday to Friday be- the ranch is a magical four-day trekking route,
B1. Follow the C98 west for 40km and then //Garas Park (Map p376; %223217; morkel@namibnet tween Windhoek and Keetmanshoop (US$9, which traverses fabulous wild landscapes. Ac-
turn north on to the D3904 about 1km east of .com; camping per person US$3, plus per vehicle US$1, day 11 hours). On Wednesday and Saturday at commodation is in the main lodge or one of
Berseba. It’s then 8km to the car park. admission per person US$1 plus per vehicle US$1) Located 9am, trains continue to Upington (US$7.50, the two wonderful hikers’ huts: the dormitory
25km north of town, //Garas boasts stands 12½ hours) in South Africa; from Upington, hut Geister Schlucht, in a Shangri-La-like val-
KEETMANSHOOP of kokerbooms and lots of hiking tracks and they run on Sunday and Thursday. For train ley, or the opulent Eagle’s Nest complex, with
%063 drives through a fantasy landscape of stacked or Star Line information, phone Trans-Namib several chalets built right into the boulders.
Keetmanshoop (pronounced kayt-mahns- boulders. It’s enhanced by a series of sculp- (%292202). Namtib Biosphere Reserve (Map p376; %061-
hoo-up) sits at the main crossroads of south- tures made from spare junk. 233597; namtib@iafrica.com.na; bungalows per person with
ern Namibia and has more petrol stations per Quivertree Rest Camp (Map p376; %222835; quiver@ AUS full board US$45; p) In the beautiful Tirasberge,
capita than any other town in Namibia, which iafrica.com.na; camping per person US$4, s/d ‘igloo’ bungalows %063 this private reserve is run by ecologically con-
may hint at its main function for travellers. US$20/30, day admission per person US$2 plus per vehicle US$2) After the Germans surrendered to the South scious owners who’ve created a self-sustaining
However, if you’re looking to break up a long On Garaganus Farm 14km east of town, this African forces in 1915, Aus became one of farm in a narrow valley, with distant views of
boasts Namibia’s largest stand of kokerbooms. two internment camps for German military the Namib plains and dune sea. To reach the
Rates include use of the picnic facilities and personnel – military police and officers were reserve, take the C13 north of Aus for 55km,
KOKERBOOMS entry to the Giant’s Playground, a bizarre sent to Okanjanje in the north while non- then turn west on the D707; after 48km turn
Kokerbooms (Aloe dichotoma), or quiver natural rock garden 5km away. commissioned officers went to Aus. As the east onto the 12km farm road to the lodge.
trees, are widespread throughout southern Pension Gessert (%223892; gesserts@iafrica.com.na; camp quickly grew to 1500 prisoners and 600
Namibia and northwestern South Africa. 138 13th St; s/d incl breakfast US$25/35; ps) Located South African guards, residents were forced Getting There & Away
They are in fact aloes and can grow to in the quiet Westdene neighbourhood, this to seek shelter in flimsy tents. However, the Aus is located 125km east of Lüderitz on
heights of 8m. The name is derived from quaint pension offers homely rooms, a beauti- resourceful inmates turned to brickmaking the B4.
the lightweight branches, which were for- ful garden, a refreshing swimming pool and and constructed houses for themselves – they
merly used as quivers by San hunters; they country-style cooking to the weary traveller. even sold the excess bricks to the guards for LÜDERITZ
removed the branches’ fibrous heart, leav- Schutzen-Haus (%223400; 8th Ave; mains US$2-5) 10 shillings per 1000. The houses weren’t %063
ing a strong, hollow tube. This German-style pub and restaurant serves opulent – roofs were tiled with unrolled food Lüderitz is a surreal colonial relic sandwiched
The slow-growing plants occur mainly on up cheap pub grub, and is also a good choice tins – but they did provide protection from between the barren Namib Desert coast and
rocky plains or slopes – they need rocks to for a cold pint of Hansa or a game or two of the elements. The prisoners also built several the windswept South Atlantic. Barely touched
anchor their shallow root systems, storing billiards. wood stoves and even sank boreholes. by the 21st century, this remote town might
water in their succulent leaves and fibrous After the Treaty of Versailles, the camp was recall a Bavarian dorfchen (small village), with
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
trunk and branches. Loss of water through Getting There & Away dismantled and by May 1919 it was closed. its churches, bakeries, cafés and Jugendstil
transpiration is prevented by a waxy coat- Intercape Mainliner buses between Windhoek Virtually nothing remains, though several (Art Nouveau) architecture. The local com-
ing on the leaves and branches. In June and (US$24, 5¾ hours) and Cape Town (US$32, of the brick houses have been reconstructed. munity is fiercely proud of its town’s unique
July, their yellow blooms appear, lending 13¾ hours) stop at the Du Toit BP petrol sta- The former camp is 4km east of Aus village, heritage, and travellers often find that they’re
bright spots of colour to the desert. tion four times weekly in either direction; they down a gravel road, then to the right; there’s greeted in Lüderitz with warm smile and a
also leave for Johannesburg (US$46, 17 hours) now a national plaque commemorating it. cold pint.
 380 S O U T H E R N N A M I B I A • • L ü d e r i t z lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N N A M I B I A • • L ü d e r i t z 381

Dangers & Annoyances 4.30-6pm Mon-Sat winter), dominates Lüderitz from

GRAVEL ROADS Stay well clear of the Sperrgebiet or the Dia- high on Diamond Hill. It was designed by
Many of Namibia’s roads – even major routes – are surfaced with unsealed gravel, and while mond Area 1. The northern boundary is Albert Bause, who implemented the Victorian
some are well maintained, others are rutted, potholed, corrugated and unevenly surfaced. For formed by the B4 and extends almost as far influences he’d seen in the Cape, and the
drivers, this can be at best tricky and at worst treacherous. In fact, the price of car hire relates east as Aus. The Sperrgebiet boundary is pa- stained-glass panel over the altar was donated
directly to the number of cars rolled by foreigners who are inexperienced at driving on gravel trolled by some fairly ruthless characters and by Kaiser Wilhelm II himself. Go to see the
roads. The following points may help. trespassers will be prosecuted (or worse). late-afternoon sun shining through the ex-

Keep your tyre pressure slightly lower than you would when driving on sealed roads. traordinary stained-glass work.
Sights The Lüderitz Museum (%202582; Diaz St; admis-

Try to avoid travelling at night when dust and distance may create confusing mirages.
Just about every view in Lüderitz reveals its sion US$1.30; h3.30-5pm Mon-Fri) details Lüderitz’s

Keep your speed down to a maximum of 100km/h. German Imperial and Art Nouveau architec- diamond-mining heritage and other aspects

Maximise your control by keeping both hands on the steering wheel. tural heritage. Prominent buildings include of its natural and cultural history.
the colonial train station (cnr Bahnhof & Bismarck Sts),

Follow ruts made by other vehicles.
and the Goerke Haus (Diamantberg St; admission US$1.30; Tours

If the road is corrugated, gradually increase your speed until you find the correct speed – it’ll h2-4pm Mon-Fri, 4-5pm Sat & Sun). Atlantic Adventure Tours (%204030; sedina@iafrica
be obvious when the rattling stops. The prominent 1912 Evangelical Lutheran .com.na) Weather permitting, it sails daily with the

Be especially careful on bends; slow right down before attempting the turn. church, Felsenkirche (h5.30-7pm Mon-Sat summer, schooner Sedina past the Cape fur seal sanctuary at Diaz

If you have a tyre blowout, do not hit the brakes or you’ll lose control and the car will roll. 0 200 m
Instead, steer straight ahead as best you can and let the car slow itself down before you at- LÜDERITZ 0 0.1 miles

tempt to bring it to a complete stop. A 21 B C To Agate Bay D

& Beach (4km)

You don’t meet other cars very often, but when you do, it’s like dust clouds passing in the 10

Kreplin
INFORMATION
night. When a vehicle approaches from the opposite direction, reduce your speed and keep Commercial Bank of Namibia.......1 B3
as far left as possible. On remote roads, it’s customary to wave at the other driver as you pass. Extreme Communications I-café...2 C3
1 Shark
First National Bank.......................3 B3
Island
Lüderitzbucht Tours & Safaris.......4 B3

In rainy weather, gravel roads can turn to quagmires and desert washes may fill with water. Namibia Wildlife Resorts...............5 B4
If you’re uncertain about the water depth in a wash, get out to check the depth (unless it’s a Standard Bank..............................6 B3
raging torrent, of course!) and only cross when it’s safe for the type of vehicle you’re driving. SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Colonial Train Station...................7 B4

Be on the lookout for animals. Kudus, in particular, often bound onto the road unexpectedly, Felsenkirche.................................8 B4
resulting in an unpleasant meeting. Goerke Haus................................9 B4
Lighthouse..................................10 B1

Avoid swerving sharply or braking suddenly on a gravel road or you risk losing control of the Lüderitz Museum.......................11 B3

vehicle. If the rear wheels begin to skid, steer gently into the direction of the skid until you SLEEPING
t Tal St
regain control. If the front wheels skid, take a firm hand on the wheel and steer in the oppo- 2 nS Bay View Hotel........................... 12 B3
fe
Ha Hansa Haus Guesthouse............13 C4

Kie
site direction of the skid. Harbour

ler
Robert Haus Sandrose...........................14 B4
Reclamation
Project Harbour Hotel Diamond Reef City............15 B3

Dust permeates everything on gravel roads; wrap your food, clothing and camera equipment Krabbenhoft une Lampe.............16 B4
Kratzplatz...................................17 B4

st
in dust-proof plastic or keep them in sealed containers. To minimise dust inside the vehicle,

oo
Inse
Lüderitz Backpackers..................18 B4

Tr
26

W
pressurise the interior by closing the windows and turning on the blower. Lüderitz Nest Hotel....................19 A4

oe
l

Lü
rm
Sea-View Hotel Zum

b
2

an

eck

In dusty conditions, switch on your headlights so you can be more easily seen. Sperrgebeit............................20 C3

r
n

ne

er
ATLANTIC

tti
Shark Island Camp Site...............21 B1

e
St
Göring St

Overtaking (passing) can be extremely dangerous because your view may be obscured by OCEAN St
25
20
Hafen

Bahnh
EATING

er
Vog
flying dust kicked up by the car ahead. Try to gain the attention of the driver in front by

em
ng
Badger's.....................................22 B3

Ri

Br
elsan
of
flashing your high beams, which will indicate that you want to overtake (this isn’t considered 3 Lüderitz Moltke Diaz Coffee Shop.......................23 B4
22

St

g
Harbour Fairies’ Coffee Nook...................(see 2)
obnoxious in Namibia). If someone behind you flashes their lights, move as far to the left as 12 3
28
Fra Legends.....................................24 B4
1 nço
possible. 11 6 is OK Supermarket........................25 C3
Ritzi's Seafood Restaurant..........26 C2

t
z S
4 ist Rumours Grill & Pizzeria.............27 B4
Lindqu

Dia
15 Spar Supermarket.......................28 B3
Na
cht
iga 7
Information Lüderitzbucht Tours & Safaris (%202719; l S 13

S t
t 5 SHOPPING

nz
17 18 Klippenweg St

hi
Karaman Weavery...................(see 16)
Several banks, including Commercial Bank ludsaf@ldz.namib.com; Bismarck St; h8am-1pm & g

Sc
n
Radford Bay 23 Ri
of Namibia, First National Bank and Stand- 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat, 8.30-10am Sun) Provides el
TRANSPORT
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
14 27 Mab Star Line Bus Stop......................(see 7)

n
ard Bank, will change cash and travellers

Bismar
reliable tourist information, organises visitor permits
Ho

an
Bay R
e
ch
the

rm
Diamantb
4
Kir

cheques. for the Sperrgebiet and sells curios, books, stamps and

oe
r

24 n
Brücke

d
ck St

W
g
Lessin
Extreme Communications I-café (%204256; phonecards. 8
lin
pp
erg

Waterfront Complex; per hr US$3.50; h8am-5pm Namibia Wildlife Resorts (NWR; %202752; Schinz 16
Le
St

To Airport (8km);
Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) Provides email and internet St; h7.30am-1pm & 2-4pm Mon-Fri) This helpful office 9
To Diaz Point (16km); Kolmanskop (8km);
19 Grosse Bucht (35km) Keetmanshoop (341km)
access. can help with national park information.
 382 S O U T H E R N N A M I B I A • • L ü d e r i t z Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N N A M I B I A • • L ü d e r i t z 383

Point and the penguin colony on Halifax Island. The two- Haus Sandrose (%202630; sandrose@ldz.namib.com, Rumours Grill & Pizzeria (%202655; Bismarck St; grilled meats, pizzas and burgers as well as the
to three-hour trips cost US$25; book at the tourist office. clooser@africaonline.com.na; 15 Bismarck St, PO Box 109; 2-/4- mains US$5-9; hlunch & dinner) This is a popu- odd vegetarian option or two.
Coastway Tours Lüderitz (%202002; lewiscwt@iway bed r US$35/50; p) This intimate B&B is an excel- lar steak house-pizzeria, which also boasts Ritzi’s Seafood Restaurant (%202818; Hafen St,
.na) Runs day tours (US$80) to the 55m Bogenfels sea arch, lent choice if you’re looking for individualised a bustling sports bar and German-style beer Waterfront; mains US$6-12) This long-standing in-
Maerchental Valley and the ghost town of Pomona in the attention and service. The Sandrose features garden. stitution is the top spot in town for seafood.
Sperrgebiet. This tour also requires at least four partici- three uniquely decorated rooms that surround Legends (%203110; Bay Rd; mains US$5-10) This Not surprisingly, it’s always fully booked, so
pants and must be booked at least one week in advance. a sheltered garden. understated restaurant has a relaxed atmos- reservations are essential. Imaginative dishes
Ghost Town Tours (%204033; kolmans@iafrica.com Hotel Diamond Reef City (%203850; fotofun@ phere, and serves up a healthy mix of seafood, are concocted from fish, lobster, oysters, game
.na; Goerke Haus) This company operates day trips to iafrica.com.na; Bismarck St; s/d US$40/60; p) With a
Elizabeth Bay (US$30), deep in the Sperrgebiet, and a full popular restaurant and friendly reception, this
day taking in Kolmanskop, Elizabeth Bay and the Lüderitz rambling place is a good, comfortable choice DIAMOND DEMENTIA
Peninsula (US$55). These trips run with a minimum of right in the centre of town. All rooms have Diamonds are the best known allotrope (form) of carbon, and are characterised by their extreme
four people and permits must be issued at least a week in high ceilings and satellite TV. Guests can take hardness (they are the hardest naturally occurring mineral) and high dispersion of light (diamonds
advance. advantage of the next-door bar and casino. are prismatic when exposed to white light). As a result, they are valued for industrial purposes
Bay View Hotel (%202288; bayview@ldz.namib.com; as abrasives since they can only be scratched by other diamonds, and for ornamental purposes
Sleeping Diaz St; s/d US$45/75; ps) This historic complex since they retain lustre when polished. It’s estimated that 130 million carats (or 26,000kg) of
BUDGET owned by the Lüderitz family is one of the diamonds are mined annually, which yields a market value of over US$9 billion.
Lüderitz Backpackers (%202000; luderitzbackpackers@ most established hotels in town. Airy rooms Diamonds are formed when carbon-bearing materials are exposed to high pressures and tem-
hotmail.com; 7 Schinz St; dm US$10, d US$25; p) Housed with satellite TV surround a courtyard and a peratures for prolonged periods of time. With the exception of synthetically produced diamonds,
in a historic colonial mansion, this friendly swimming pool, and there’s also an on-site favourable conditions only occur beneath the continental crust starting at depths of about 150km.
place is the only true backpacker spot in town. bar and seafood restaurant. Once carbon crystallises, a diamond will continue to grow in size so long as it is exposed to suf-
The vibe is congenial and low-key, and the ficient temperatures and pressures. However, size is limited by the fact that diamond-bearing rock
friendly management is helpful in sorting out TOP END is eventually expelled towards the surface through deep-origin volcanic eruptions. Eventually,
your onward travels. Sea-View Hotel Zum Sperrgebiet (%203411; michaels@ they are forced to the surface by magma, and are expelled from a volcanic pipe.
Shark Island Camp Site (camping for 4 people US$12, ldz.namib.com; cnr Woermann & Göring Sts; s/d US$85/135, Although diamonds were discovered along the Orange River in South Africa and among the
5-bed bungalows US$70; p) This is a beautifully f US$225; pas) This modern hotel boasts guano workings on the offshore islands as early as 1866, it apparently didn’t occur to any-
situated but aggravatingly windy locale. It’s a glassed-in indoor swimming pool, a sauna, one that the desert sands might also harbour a bit of crystal carbon. In 1908, however, railway
connected to the town by a causeway, but sweeping terraces, harbour views and even an worker Zacharias Lewala found a shiny stone along the railway line near Grasplatz, and took it
is no longer an island, thanks to the recent indoor banana tree – it’s a natural favourite to his employer August Stauch. Stauch took immediate interest and, to his elation, the state
harbour reclamation project that attached it to with German visitors. geologist confirmed that it was indeed a diamond. Stauch applied for a prospecting licence
the mainland. Book through NWR (NWR) in Lüderitz Nest Hotel (%204000; www.nesthotel from the Deutsche Koloniale Gesellschaft (German Colonial Society), and set up his own mining
Lüderitz (see p380), or in Windhoek (p315) – .com; 820 Diaz St; s/d US$120/175, ste US$315; pas) company, the Deutsche Diamanten Gesellschaft (German Diamond Society), to begin exploiting
if space is available, camp sites and bungalows Lüderitz’s most upmarket hotel occupies a jut- the presumed windfall.
can also be booked at the entrance. ting peninsula in the southwest corner of town In the years to follow, hordes of prospectors descended upon Lüderitz with dreams of finding
complete with its own private beach. Each fabulous wealth buried in the sands. As a result, Lüderitz became a boomtown as service facili-
MIDRANGE room, which is stylishly appointed with mod- ties sprang up to accommodate the growing population. By September 1908, however, diamond
Hansa Haus Guesthouse (%203581; mcloud@africaonline ern furnishings, faces out towards the sea. dementia was threatening to escalate out of control, which influenced the German government
.com.na; 5 Mabel St; s/d with shared bathroom US$30/35; p) to intervene by establishing the Sperrgebiet. This ‘forbidden area’ extended from 26°S latitude
This imposing hilltop home boasts dramatic Eating southward to the Orange River mouth, and stretched inland for 100km. Independent prospecting
sea views and quiet surroundings. Rooms If you’re self-catering, there are a number of was henceforth verboten (forbidden), and those who’d already staked their claims were forced
feature high ceilings and picture windows, supermarkets as well as small seafood mer- to form mining companies.
while amenities include a TV lounge and a chants in town. In February 1909, a diamond board was created to broker all diamond sales and thereby
communal kitchen. Diaz Coffee Shop (%203147; cnr Bismarck St & Bay Rd; control prices. However, after WWI ended, the world diamond market was so depressed that
Krabbenhoft une Lampe (%202674; taurus@ldz snacks & meals US$1-4) This quaint and cosy coffee in 1920, Ernst Oppenheimer of the Anglo-American Corporation was able to purchase Stauch’s
.namib.com; 25 Bismarck St; s/d with shared bathroom shop serves excellent toasties, light meals, company, along with eight other diamond-producing companies. This ambitious move led to the
US$30/40, flats from US$55; p) One of the more coffee and cakes – its Sunday Continental formation of Consolidated Diamond Mines (CDM), which was administered by De Beers South
unusual accommodation options in town, the breakfast is popular among locals. Africa and headquartered in Kolmanskop.
Krabbenhoft is a converted carpet factory that Fairies’ Coffee Nook (%0812 456158; Waterfront Com- In 1928, rich diamond fields were discovered around the mouth of the Orange River, and in
now offers a number of basic rooms and self- plex; snacks & meals US$1-4) This waterfront café offers 1944, CDM relocated to the purpose-built company town of Oranjemund. Kolmanskop’s last
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
catering flats upstairs from a weaver. sea views and is the perfect spot to linger over inhabitants left in 1956, and the dunes have been encroaching on the town ever since.
Kratzplatz (%202458; kratzmr@iway.na; 5 Nachtigal a steaming cup of coffee and a sweet snack. In 1994, CDM gave way to Namdeb Diamond Corporation Limited (Namdeb), which is owned
St; s/d from US$30/45; p) Housed in a converted Badger’s (%202855; Diaz St; meals US$3-6) Al- in equal shares by the Government of Namibia and the De Beers Group. De Beers is a Johannes-
church complete with vaulted ceilings, this though it primarily serves as the town water- burg- and London-based diamond-mining and trading corporation that held a virtual monopoly
centrally located B&B offers a variety of homey ing hole, Badger’s also serves up cheap pub over the diamond trade for much of its corporate history.
rooms to choose from. grub as well as takeaway.
 384 S O U T H E R N N A M I B I A • • A r o u n d L ü d e r i t z lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N N A M I B I A • • Fi s h R i v e r C a n y o n N a t i o n a l Pa r k 385

meats and beef, but there’s usually a few veg- to and from Swakopmund and twice weekly a substantial diamond-mining town. It was dramatic inner canyon reaches a depth of
etarian options on the menu. to and from Walvis Bay. named after an early Afrikaner trekker, Jani 550m. Although these figures by themselves
For self-catering, see the Spar and OK super- Kolman, whose ox-wagon became bogged in are impressive, it’s difficult to get a sense of
markets (Map p381). BUS the sand here. It once boasted a casino, skittle perspective without actually witnessing the
Star Line buses to Keetmanshoop (US$9, five alley and theatre with fine acoustics, but the enormous scope of the canyon.
Shopping hours) go from the historic train station at slump in diamond sales after WWI and the
Karaman Weavery (%202272; 25 Bismarck St) This 12.30pm on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. discovery of richer deposits at Oranjemund Information
shop specialises in locally woven high-quality ended its heyday. By 1956 it was deserted. Sev- The main access points for Fish River Canyon

ὄὄὄ
rugs and garments in pastel desert colours, CAR & MOTORCYCLE eral buildings have been restored, but many are at Hobas, near the northern end of the
with Namibian flora and fauna the favoured Lüderitz and the scenery en route (see op- have already been invaded by the dunes. park, and Ai-Ais, near the southern end. Both
designs. It accepts special orders and can post posite) are worth the 300km trip from Keet- Kolmanskop tours (adult/child US$4/2; h9.30am & are administered by NWR, and all accommo-
them worldwide. manshoop via the tarred B4. 10.45am Mon-Sat, 10am Sun) last 45 minutes; pick dation must be booked in advance through
up a permit from the Lüderitzbucht Tours the Windhoek office (p315) or the Lüderitz
Getting There & Away AROUND LÜDERITZ & Safaris tourist office (see p380) at least 30 office (p380). Daily park permits, which cost

ὄὄὄ
AIR Kolmanskop Ghost Town minutes prior to each tour. Participants must US$3 per person and US$3 per vehicle, are
Air Namibia travels four times a week be- A popular trip from Lüderitz is the ghost town provide their own transport from town. After valid for both Hobas and Ai-Ais. The Hobas
tween Windhoek and Lüderitz, once weekly of Kolmanskop, 14km away, which was once the tour, you can eat a light lunch in the Ball Information Centre (Map p376; h7.30am-noon & 2-
Hall restaurant. 5pm) at the northern end of the park is also the
AROUND LÜDERITZ 0
0
5 km
3 miles
check-in point for the five-day canyon hike.
Lüderitz Peninsula Packaged snacks and cool drinks are available

ὄὄὄ
The Lüderitz Peninsula, much of which lies here, but little else.
Dunes
outside the Sperrgebiet prohibited area, makes
an interesting half-day excursion from town. Sights
Flamingo
Island The picturesque and relatively calm bay, Sturm- HOBAS
ATLANTIC Seal
Picnic Site vogelbucht, has a lovely beach and is viable for From Hobas, it’s 10km on a gravel road to the
OCEAN Island swimming, but the water temperature would Hikers’ Viewpoint (the start of the hiking route),
only be amenable to a seal or a penguin. A which has picnic tables, braai pits and toilets.

ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ
Agate
Bay
Agate Beach
Picnic Site
Norwegian whaling station was sited there Just around the corner is a good overview of
in 1914, but is now a rusty ruin. the northern part of the canyon. The Main
CD

Penguin
Island At Diaz Point, 22km west of Lüderitz, is a Viewpoint, a few kilometres south, has probably
M

Factories
Bo

Nautilus
Angra lovely, classic lighthouse and a replica of a the best – and most photographed – overall
un

Point Shark Hill

da

Diaz
r
Har bert

cross erected in July 1488 by Portuguese navi- canyon view. Both these vistas take in the
bou

Island
ry

Point Angra Dunes

Ro

Dias Cross Sturmvogelbucht Club Nautilus gator Bartolomeu Dias on his return voyage sharp river bend known as Hell’s Corner.

ὄὄὄὄὄὄ
Beach
Shearwater Old Norwegian from the Cape of Good Hope. The point is
Bay Whaling Station Lüderitz
Guano
Picnic
frequented by sea lions, and from the nearby AI-AIS
Halifax
Island
Bay
Pans
Site Benguela
car park you can observe the jackass penguin The hot springs (admission per session US$3; h9am-
Griffith See Lüderitz Map (p381)
Bay colony on Halifax Island. You can also observe 9pm) at Ai-Ais (Nama for ‘Scalding Hot’) are
e

Halifax Cemetery
Pan
idg

Point
Radford
Ruins cormorants, wading birds and even the oc- located beneath the towering peaks at the
Knochen
k R

Bay Golf casional school of dolphins. southern end of Fish River Canyon National
Bucht Pan Course

ὄὄὄ
Picnic Site Water B4 Dunes Grosse Bucht (Big Bay) at the southern end Park. Although the 60°C springs have prob-
ac

Tower
Bl

Picnic Site Second

of the peninsula, is another wild and scenic ably been known to the San for thousands of
Essy Lagoon Lüderitz beach. This normally cold, windy spot is fa- years, the legend goes that they were ‘discov-
Bay Airport
Pan voured by flocks of flamingoes that feed in ered’ by a nomadic Nama shepherd round-
Eberlanz
Spring
Kolmanskop
the tidal pools. It’s also the site of a small but ing up stray sheep. They’re rich in chloride,
Höhle (Ghost Town)
Ruins
picturesque shipwreck on the beach. Just a few fluoride and sulphur, and are reputedly thera-
kilometres north lies the small seaside rock peutic for sufferers of rheumatism or nervous

ὄ ὄὄὄ
Fjord
ry

Ruins
Picnic Site To Keetmanshoop
arch known as Klein Bogenfels. disorders. The hot water is piped to a series
da

(327km)
un

of baths and Jacuzzis as well as an outdoor

Bo

Kleiner
M

Fjord
FISH RIVER CANYON NATIONAL PARK swimming pool.
CD

Ruins
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
Klein
Bogenfels Picnic Site
Diamond Area 1
Ruins Nowhere else in Africa will you find any-
Pans (Sperrgebiet - Prohibited Area) thing quite like Fish River Canyon. Fish River, Activities
Picnic Site which joins the Orange River 70km south of FISH RIVER HIKING TRAIL
Dunes
Shipwreck the canyon, has been gouging out this gorge The five-day hike (per person US$11) from Hobas
Grosse To Elizabeth Bay (30km);
Bogenfels (110km)
for aeons. The canyon measures 160km in to Ai-Ais is Namibia’s most popular long-
Bucht
length and up to 27km in width, and the distance walk – and with good reason. The
 386 S O U T H E R N N A M I B I A • • A r o u n d Fi s h R i v e r C a n y o n Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com N A M I B I A D I R E C T O R Y • • A c c o m m o d a t i o n 387

magical 85km route, which follows the sandy ings, one 36km north of Noordoewer and the In the process, the park absorbed the former Activities
riverbed past a series of ephemeral pools (in other 30km south of Grünau. Once in Ai-Ais, Augurabies-Steenbok Nature Reserve, which RIVER TRIPS
May and June the river actually does flow), plenty of holiday-makers head for the view- was created earlier to protect Hartmann’s Canoe and rafting trips are normally done
begins at Hikers’ Viewpoint, and ends at the points around Hobas, thus facilitating hitch- mountain zebras, steenboks, gemsboks and in stages and last from three to six days. The
hot-spring resort of Ai-Ais. ing between Ai-Ais, Hobas and the beginning klipspringers. popular trips from Noordoewer to Aus-
Due to flash flooding and heat in the sum- of the Hikers’ Viewpoint trailhead. senkehr aren’t treacherous by any stretch –
mer months, the route is open only from SLEEPING the white water never exceeds class II – but
1 May to 30 September. Groups of three to AROUND FISH RIVER CANYON Funding for the park is derived from a 5% bed they do provide access to some wonderfully
40 people may begin the hike every day of Canyon Adventures Guest Farm levy at Cañon Lodge and Cañon Roadhouse. wild canyon country. Other possible stages
the season, though you will have to book The friendly Canyon Adventures Guest Farm (Map To make bookings, contact Cañon Travel Centre include Aussenkehr to the Fish River mouth,
in advance as the trail is extremely popular. p376; %063-266018; www.resafrica.net/fish-river-lodge; (%061-230066; www.namibiaweb.com/canyon; PO Box the Fish River mouth to Nama Canyon (this
Reservations can be made at the NWR office bush camping per person US$6, dm US$8, r per person incl 80205, Windhoek). one has a few more serious rapids) and Nama
in Windhoek (p315) or Lüderitz (p380). breakfast from US$32; ps) is situated on a ranch Cañon Roadhouse (Map p376; www.natron.net/can Canyon to Selingsdrif. For more information,
Officials sometimes require a doctor’s cer- cradled in the confluence of the Löwen and yon; camping per site US$6.50 plus per person US$2.50, s/d contact Amanzi Trails (%South Africa 21-559 1573;
tificate of fitness, issued less than 40 days Fish River Canyons amid some of the most US$50/84; ps) This wonderfully unique place www.amanzitrails.co.za).
before your hike, though if you look young amazing geology imaginable – don’t just take attempts to re-create a roadhouse out on the
and fit they might not ask. Hikers must ar- our word for it! Highlights include the 4WD wildest stretches of Route 66 – at least as it Sleeping
range their own transport to and from the trip (US$10) into the canyon to swim in the exists in the collective imagination. Buffets Abiqua Camp (Map p376; %297255; camping per per-
start and finish as well as accommodation in river pools, a ‘garnet crawl’, and the bizarre are served on an antique motorcycle, the stun- son US$3.50; p) This friendly and well-situated
Hobas and Ai-Ais. petroglyphs in the rippled black dolerite. ning window shades are made from used air camp, 13km on the Orange River Rd, sits on
Thanks to the typically warm, clear weather, From April to October, there’s also the filters, and the bar stools are air filters from the riverbank opposite some interesting sedi-
you probably won’t need a tent, but you must wonderful five-day, 85km Löwenfish hiking heavy-duty vehicles – and then there’s the mentary formations. Abiqua camp is also the
carry a sleeping bag and food. In Hobas, check trail (US$45 per person, including two nights’ obligatory collection of number plates (where launch site for Amanzi Trails and Rivers In-
on water availability in the canyon. In August accommodation at the Stable). This hike takes donations from your home country are grate- corporated river-trip operators.
and September, the final 15km of the walk in the Löwen Canyon and several days along fully accepted). Camel Lodge (Map p376; %797171; s/d incl breakfast
can be completely dry and hikers will need Fish River Canyon, interrupted by several Cañon Lodge (Map p376; www.natron.net/canyonlodge; US$30/35; pas) This affordable motel-style
several 2L water bottles to manage this hot, ascents to the plateau and descents down mountain camp per person US$15, s/d incl breakfast US$65/100; lodge offers recently renovated rooms com-
sandy stretch. Large plastic soft-drink bottles scenic cliffs. Camp sites (with no facilities) ps) This mountain retreat, which is one plete satellite TV and air-con, as well as a
normally work just fine. are situated at water sources along the way of Namibia’s most stunning accommodation refreshing swimming pool and braai pits.
and the last night you can stay at the Koelkrans options, consists of 26 red stone bungalows
Sleeping
Accommodation must be prebooked through
the NWR office in Windhoek (p315) or in
Camp (per person US$14), with cooking facilities
and hot showers. On the last day, hikers climb
out of the canyon for the last time and follow
that are perfectly integrated into the boulder-
strewn backdrop. The restaurant, housed in
a restored 1908 farmhouse, is decorated with
NAMIBIA DIRECTORY
Lüderitz (p380). a scenic route back to the lodge. Stages of the historic farming implements and rambling ACCOMMODATION
Hobas Camp Site (Map p376; camping for 4 people trip may be done as one- to four-day hikes. gardens. Namibia has an exhaustive (and growing)
US$15; ps) This pleasant and well-shaded Note that prebooking is essential. array of hotels, rest camps, camping grounds,
camping ground near the park’s northern end To reach the guest farm, head west from GETTING THERE & AWAY caravan parks, guest farms, backpackers’ hos-
is situated about 10km from the main view- Keetmanshoop and turn south on the D545; Gondwana Cañon Park can be accessed via tels, B&Bs, guesthouses and safari lodges. It
points. Facilities are clean, and there’s also a after 33km, bear left at the junction. After private vehicle along the C37. would take an enormous volume to mention
kiosk and swimming pool, but no restaurant a further 32km, you’ll see the signpost for everything that’s available, so those included
or petrol station. Canyon Adventures Guest Farm on the right- NOORDOEWER in this book are recommended and/or provide
Ai-Ais Hot Springs Resort (Map p376; camping for 4 hand side of the road. At this point, it’s 22km %063 accommodation in areas with few options.
people US$15, 4-bed bungalows US$30, 2-/4-bed flats US$35/35; west to the lodge. It’s passable with a 2WD but Noordoewer sits astride the Orange River, Note, however, that the lack of a mention
ps) Amenities include washing blocks, in several places you will have to take it very which has its headwaters in the Drakensberg here doesn’t mean that an establishment isn’t
braai pits and use of the resort facilities. All easy. Mountains of Natal, South Africa, and forms recommended.
flats have private baths and basic self-catering much of the boundary between Namibia and For further information, see the following
facilities. There is also an on-site restaurant Gondwana Cañon Park South Africa. The river was actually named annual publications, which are distributed at
and small grocery store. Founded in 1996, the 100,000-hectare Gond- not for its muddy colour, but for Prince tourist offices: Where to Stay – Namibia; Wel-
wana Cañon Park was created by amalgamat- William V of Orange, who was the Dutch come to Namibia – Tourist Accommodation
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
Getting There & Away ing several former sheep farms, and removing monarch in the late 1770s. Although the & Info Guide; Namibia Holiday & Travel and
There’s no public transport to either Hobas or the fences to restore the wilderness country town primarily serves as a border post and the listings and accompanying map published
Ai-Ais, but hitching is fairly easy during the immediately northeast of Fish River Can- a centre for viticulture (the cultivation of by the Hospitality Association of Namibia
hiking season from mid-March to 31 October. yon National Park. Water holes have been grapes), it serves as a good base for organis- (HAN).
Thanks to South African holiday traffic, the established, and wildlife is now returning to ing a canoeing or rafting adventure on the Hotels and most other establishments are
best-travelled route is to Ai-Ais via two turn- this wonderful, remote corner of Namibia. Orange River. graded using a star system; awards are based
 388 N A M I B I A D I R E C T O R Y • • A c c o m m o d a t i o n lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N A M I B I A D I R E C T O R Y • • A c t i v i t i e s 389

hiking routes and set aside areas as wildlife ACTIVITIES The Burning Shore, by Wilbur Smith, is
PRACTICALITIES and hunting reserves. In all cases, advance Hiking is a highlight in Namibia, and a grow- highly entertaining and is probably the best

Botswana generates electricity at 220V bookings are essential. ing number of private ranches have estab- novel set in Namibia. Kaokoveld – the Last
AC, 50Hz, though they confusingly use lished wonderful hiking routes for their guests Wilderness, by Anthony Hall-Martin, J du P
two types of plugs: the South African Hostels & B&Bs to enjoy; the finest ones include Klein-Aus Bothma and Clive Walker, is a breathtaking
type with three round prongs, and the Backpacker hostels now operate in Windhoek, Vista, near Aus, and Canyon Adventures compilation of beguiling photos and will have
UK type with three square prongs. Swakopmund, Walvis Bay, Outjo, Keetman- Guest Farm, south of Keetmanshoop. You’ll you heading for northwestern Namibia.
shoop and Lüderitz, and more are planned. also find superb routes in the national parks:

Most of Namibia’s English-language
newspapers are based in Windhoek:
They provide dorm accommodation and cook- Daan Viljoen, Namib-Naukluft, Fish River BUSINESS HOURS
ing facilities, and range from US$5.50 to US$8 Canyon, Waterberg Plateau and the Ugab Normal business hours are from 8am to 1pm
the Namibian, published weekdays;
the Windhoek Observer, published on
per person. Bed-and-breakfast establishments River area of the Skeleton Coast. For more and 2.30pm to 5pm weekdays. In the winter,
Saturday; and the government-owned
are also emerging around the country; for about the latter, see p313. when it gets dark early, some shops open at
New Era.
listings, contact the Budget & Home Association A burgeoning craze is sandboarding, which 7.30am and close at around 4pm. Lunchtime
of Namibia (%061-222899; www.bed-breakfast-namibia is commercially available in Swakopmund. closing is almost universal. On Saturday, most

Print and slide film, batteries and ac- .com; PO Box 90270, Klein Windhoek). In the same area, operators offer horse and city and town shops open from 8am to 1pm.
cessories as well as video cartridges camel riding, quad-biking, deep-sea fishing, Banks, government departments and tourist
are available in Windhoek and Swakop- Hotels sea kayaking, bird-watching and skydiving. offices also keep these hours, but some petrol
mund, though they’re not cheap, and The Namibian hotel-classification system rates A growing number of 4WD routes are open- stations, especially along highways, are open
you might not find your desired brand. everything from small guesthouses to four-star ing up for a largely South African market, 24 hours.

The Namibian Broadcasting Corpora- hotels. Most are locally owned and managed, including several popular routes along remote Restaurant opening hours vary according
tion (NBC) operates nine radio stations, and most have at least a breakfast room, if sections of the Namib Desert. Whitewater to the type of establishment – as a rule cafés
broadcasting on different wavebands in not a dining room and a bar. Any hotel with a rafting is available on the Kunene River, but and cheap eats will be open all day long,
12 languages. name that includes the word garni lacks a full it’s extremely expensive; more down to earth closing in the early evening. More expensive

Namibia uses the metric system for
dining room, but does offer a simple breakfast. is the whitewater canoeing along the Orange restaurants will be open from around 10.30am
measurements. The most luxurious hotels include the Kalahari River, on the South African border. to 11pm Monday to Saturday, usually with a
Sands and Windhoek Country Club, both in break between lunch and dinner. Run-of-the-
Windhoek, and the Swakopmund Hotel & BOOKS mill bars open from around 5pm until late,
on guidelines from the Ministry of Environ- Entertainment Centre. Guide to Namibian Game Parks, by Willie and while nightclubs and late-night drinking spots
ment & Tourism. The accommodation rates Sandra Olivier, has the lowdown on national open their doors at around 9pm (or 10pm)
listed in this chapter are rack rates for overseas National Parks Accommodation parks, wildlife reserves and other conserva- and keep going until 5am.
bookings, and include 15% value-added tax Namibia Wildlife Resorts (NWR) oversees ac- tion areas, with useful maps and advice on In this chapter we have only listed opening
(VAT). In most cases, you’ll get the best rates commodation in the national parks and offers wildlife viewing. It’s available locally. hours where they differ significantly from
when booking from within Namibia. a range of camp sites, bungalows, chalets and Horns of Darkness – Rhinos on the Edge, these broad guidelines. See above for infor-
The accommodation breakdown used in ‘bus quarters’ (for bus tours). Most sites in- by conservationists Carol Cunningham and mation on business hours in the Southern
this chapter is budget less than US$25, mid- clude access to a swimming pool, shop, kiosk, Joel Berger, describes a journey through the Africa region.
range US$25 to US$50, and top end above restaurant, braai (barbecue) facilities and well- Namibian wilds to find and protect the coun-
US$50. maintained ablutions (amenities) blocks. Dur- try’s remaining desert rhinos. The Shelter- CHILDREN
ing school holidays, visitors may be limited to ing Desert, by Henno Martin, is a Namibian Although Namibia is a safe place for chil-
Camping three nights at each of the three Etosha National classic recounting the adventures of German dren to travel in, be advised that child-related
Most towns have caravan parks with bun- Park camps and 10 nights at other camps. Pets geologists Henno Martin and Hermann Korn, goods and services are extremely limited, par-
galows or rondavels (round African-style aren’t permitted in any camp, but kennels are who spent two years in the Namib Desert ticularly in the far fringes of the country.
huts) where you can stay for very reasonable available at the gates of Daan Viljoen, Von Bach avoiding Allied forces during WWII.
rates. For information on camping in national Dam, Gross-Barmen, Ai-Ais and Hardap Dam. The Colonising Camera, by Wolfram Hart- CUSTOMS
parks, see right. Anyone is welcome to camp For booking information, see p313. mann et al (eds), is part of the new historical Any item (except vehicles) from elsewhere in
on communal lands, but if you can’t get out writings. This book is an illustrated history of the Southern African Customs Union – Bot-
of sight, it’s polite to ask locals to direct you Safari Lodges the country. To Free Namibia: The Life of the swana, South Africa, Lesotho and Swaziland –
to an unobtrusive place to set up. On private Most of Namibia’s lodges offer luxury accom- First President of Namibia, by Sam Nujoma, may be imported duty free. From elsewhere,
land, you must secure permission from the modation and superb international cuisine. is an autobiography of the president. Herero visitors can import duty free 400 cigarettes or
landowner. Rates are very reasonable when compared Heroes, written by JB Gewald, blends oral and 250g of tobacco, 2L of wine, 1L of spirits and
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
with similar places in other countries in the written accounts to provide a fascinating his- 250mL of eau de Cologne.
Guest Farms region and there’s little multitier pricing. Even tory of Namibia’s Herero people. Namibia –
A growing number of predominantly German- around the popular Etosha National Park, The Struggle for Liberation, by Alfred T DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Namibian private farms welcome guests, and you’ll pay a third of what you’d pay for similar Moleah, is an account of Swapo’s independ- Theft isn’t particularly rife in Namibia, but in
provide insight into the white rural lifestyle. lodges in the Okavango Delta. Other areas are ence struggle and describes the situation Windhoek and Swakopmund, avoid walking
Many of these farms have also established even more reasonably priced. before success was certain. alone at night and conceal your valuables.
 390 N A M I B I A D I R E C T O R Y • • E m b a s s i e s & C o n s u l a t e s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N A M I B I A D I R E C T O R Y • • I n t e r n e t A c c e s s 391

Similarly, don’t leave anything in sight inside Germany (Map p318; %223100; fax 222981; 6th Easter Monday March or April of Angolan immigrants. (See p772 for some
a vehicle or at camp sites, and keep valuables fl, Sanlam Centre, 154 Independence Ave, PO Box 231; Ascension Day April or May, 40 days after Easter useful words and phrases.)
inside your sleeping bag at night. h9am-12.30pm) Workers’ Day 1 May
Kavango and Caprivi both have malarial Kenya (Map p318; %226836; fax 221409; Kenya House, Cassinga Day 4 May MAPS
mosquito problems, and bilharzia is present Robert Mugabe Ave, PO Box 2889; h9am-12.30pm & Africa Day 25 May The Shell Roadmap – Namibia is probably the
all over northern Namibia; in the eastern 2-5pm) Heroes’ Day 26 August best reference for remote routes; it also has an
Caprivi, the tsetse fly is especially active at Malawi (Map p318; %221391; fax 227056; 56 Bismarck Human Rights Day 10 December excellent Windhoek map. Shell also publishes
dusk, and all of northern Namibia’s rivers St, Windhoek West, PO Box 23547; h9am-noon & Christmas 25 December the Kaokoland-Kunene Region Tourist Map,
harbour very large crocodiles. 2-5pm) Family/Boxing Day 26 December which depicts all routes and tracks through
East of Lüderitz, keep well clear of the South Africa (Map p316; %205 7111; fax 224140; this remote area. It’s available at bookshops
Sperrgebiet, the prohibited diamond area, as RSA House, cnr Jan Jonker St & Nelson Mandela Dr, Klein INTERNET ACCESS and tourist offices for US$3.
well-armed patrols can be overly zealous. The Windhoek, PO Box 23100; h8.15am-12.15pm) Both email and internet access are available at The Macmillan Namibia Travellers’ Map,
area begins immediately south of the Lüderitz– UK (Map p318; %223022; fax 228895; bhc@mweb.com backpackers’ hostels, internet cafés and hotels at a scale of 1:2.4 million, has clear print and
Keetmanshoop road and continues to just .na; 116A Robert Mugabe Ave, PO Box 22202; h9am- in larger towns, and also at several tourist of- colour-graded altitude representation, but
west of Aus, where the off-limits boundary noon) fices and remote lodges. minor routes aren’t depicted.
turns south towards the Orange River. USA (Map p318; %221601; fax 229792; www.usem Beautiful but generally outdated govern-
bassy.namibnet.com; 14 Lossen St, Ausspannplatz, Private INTERNET RESOURCES ment survey topographic sheets and aerial
EMBASSIES & CONSULATES Bag 12029; h8am-noon Mon, Wed & Fri) Cardboard Box Travel Shop (www.namibian.org) photos are available from the Office of the Sur-
Namibian Embassies & Consulates Zambia (Map p318; %237610; fax 228162; cnr Sam Namibia’s best budget and adventure travel agency is the veyor General (Map p318; %061-245055; fax 249802;
Namibia has embassies and high commissions Nujoma Dr & Mandume Ndemufayo Ave, PO Box 22882; place for a range of travel options, excellent background Ministry of Justice, Robert Mugabe Ave, Private Bag 13267,
in South Africa, Zambia and Zimbabwe (see h8am-1pm & 2-4pm) information and efficient bookings. Windhoek). The 1:250,000 series maps cost US$4
the relevant country chapters). If you need a Zimbabwe (Map p318; %228134; fax 226859; Gorp Travel (www.gorp.com) This is another useful each and the 1:50,000 maps are US$3.
visa and your home country lacks a Namibian Gamsberg Bldg, cnr Independence Ave & Grimm St, PO Box trip-planning site, with links to adventure outfits featuring
diplomatic mission, fax or post your passport 23056; h9am-12.30pm & 2-3pm) Namibia. MONEY
details and desired length of stay to the Ministry Namibia Holiday & Travel (www.holidaytravel.com The Namibian dollar (N$) equals 100 cents,
of Home Affairs (Map p318; %061-292 2111; fax 292 2185; FESTIVALS & EVENTS .na) This site provides information from the glossy pub- and in Namibia it’s pegged to the South Af-
mlusepani@mha.gov.na; Private Bag 13200, Windhoek) and A major local event is Maherero Day, on the lication of the same name. rican rand (in South Africa, it fetches only
hope for the best. weekend nearest 26 August, when the Red Namibia Tourism (www.tourism.com.na) The national about R0.70), which is also legal tender at a
Namibian diplomatic representatives else- Flag Herero people gather in traditional dress tourist office site provides a wide range of local travel rate of 1:1. This can be confusing, given that
where include the following: at Okahandja for a memorial service for the information. there are three sets of coins and notes in use,
Angola (%02-395483; fax 333923; 95 Rua Dos Coquei- chiefs killed in the German-Nama wars. A Namibia Wildlife Resorts (www.namibiawildlife all with different sizes: old South African,
ros, PO Box 953, Luanda) similar event, also at Okahandja, is staged by resorts.com) Includes guidelines on booking national parks, new South African and Namibian. Namibian
France (%01-44 17 32 65; fax 44 17 32 73; 80 Ave Foch, the Mbanderu or Green Flag Herero on the permits and accommodation. dollar notes come in denominations of N$10,
Sq de l’Ave Foch, F-75116 Paris) weekend nearest 11 June. On the weekend Namibian (www.namibian.com.na) For up-to-date news N$20, N$50, N$100 and N$200, and coins
Germany (%0228-346021; fax 346025; Mainzerstr 47, nearest 10 October, the White Flag Herero from Namibia, try the Namibian newspaper site. in values of 5¢, 10¢, 20¢ and 50¢, and N$1
D-53179 Bonn) gather in Omaruru to honour their chief Natron.Net (www.natron.net/etour.htm) This is a good and N$5.
UK (%020-7636 6244; fax 7637 5694; namibia-high Zeraua. tourism site, with useful links.
comm@btconnect.com; 6 Chandos St, London W1G 9LU) Among the ethnic European community, ATMs
USA (%202-986 0540; fax 986 0443; embnamibia@ events include the Windhoek Karnival (WIKA) For more information, see p25. ATMs are common in major cities and towns,
aol.com; www.grnnet.gov.na; 1605 New Hampshire Ave in late April/early May; the Küska (Küste Kar- and accept most major Western cards.
NW, Washington DC 20009) nival) at Swakopmund in late August/early LANGUAGE
September; the Windhoek Agricultural Show in At independence in 1990, the official lan- Credit Cards
Embassies & Consulates in Namibia late September; and the Windhoek Oktoberfest guage of Namibia was designated as English, Most major credit cards (especially Visa and
All of the following representations are in in late October. but the first language of most Namibians is MasterCard) are accepted at tourist hotels and
Windhoek (area code %061); opening hours either a Bantu language, which would include restaurants in the larger cities and towns.
are weekdays only: HOLIDAYS Owambo, Kavango, Herero and Caprivian
Angola (Map p318; %227535; fax 221498; Angola Resort areas are busiest over both Namibian languages; or a Khoisan language, including Moneychangers
House, 3 Ausspann St, Ausspannplatz, Private Bag 12020; and South African school holidays, which Khoikhoi (Nama/Damara) and San dialects. To change cash, both Barclays and Stand-
h9am-1pm) normally occur from mid-December to mid- In addition, Afrikaans is used as a lingua ard Chartered banks charge 3% commission,
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NAMIBIA
Botswana (Map p316;%221941; fax 236034; 101 January, around Easter, from late July to early franca, and is the first language of more than while the former charges 3% to change travel-
Nelson Mandela Dr, PO Box 20359; h8am-12.30pm) August, and for two weeks in mid-October. 100,000 Namibians of diverse ethnic back- lers cheques.
EU (%220099; 4th fl, Sanlam Centre, 154 Independence New Year’s Day 1 January grounds. German is also widely spoken but
Ave, PO Box 231; h9am-12.30pm) Independence Day 21 March is the first language of only about 2% of the Tipping
France (Map p318; %229022; fax 231436; 1 Goethe St, Good Friday March or April population. In the far north, Portuguese is Tipping is expected only in upmarket tour-
PO Box 20484; h9am-12.30pm & 1.30-5pm) Easter Sunday March or April the first language of an increasing number ist establishments, but many places add a
 392 N A M I B I A D I R E C T O R Y • • P o s t lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T R A N S P O R T I N N A M I B I A • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 393

service charge as a matter of course. Tipping is distributed by the Namibia Tourism (Map p318; Angola Visas are readily available only to Namibian Entering Namibia
is officially prohibited in national parks and %061-284 2360; www.tourism.com.na; Continental Bldg, citizens and residents; others must apply in their home All visitors entering Namibia must hold a
reserves, and bargaining is only acceptable ground fl, 272 Independence Ave, Private Bag 13346, Wind- country (usually limited to fly-in visas for arrival in Luanda) passport that is valid for at least six months.
when purchasing handicrafts and arts directly hoek). Also very useful is the glossy Namibia or attempt to secure an overland visa in Oshakati. Also, allow a few empty pages for stamp-
from the artist or artisan. Holiday & Travel (%061-225665; www.holidaytravel.com Kenya UK citizens need a visa, which costs US$50 and happy immigration officials, especially if
.na; PO Box 21593, Windhoek), which provides back- takes two days to process. A multiple-entry visa costs you’re crossing over to Zimbabwe and/or
Travellers Cheques ground information and listings. Those with a US$100 and can take up to six weeks to issue. Citizens of Zambia to see Victoria Falls.
Travellers cheques are falling into disuse in long-term interest in the country may want to the USA and Australia can enter Kenya for 30 days without Members of the EU, USA, South Africa,
Namibia, though they can still be changed subscribe to Travel News Namibia (%061-225665; a visa; longer stays require a visa, which is issued in two Scandinavia, Balkan countries and all mem-
in large cities. www.travelnews.com.na; PO Box 21593, Windhoek). days and costs US$53. bers of the Commonwealth (with the excep-
Namibia Community Based Tourism Association Zambia Visas are required by US, Australian and UK tion of Ghana, India, Sri Lanka, Nigeria and
POST (Map p316; Nacobta; %061-250558; www.nacobta.com citizens. In Windhoek, they take one day to process and Mauritius) will be granted a one-month entry
Domestic post generally moves slowly; for .na; 3 Weber St, PO Box 86099, Windhoek) provides cost US$60/100/200 for a single-entry/double-entry/ permit on arrival (passport photos required).
example, it can take several weeks for a letter information on its network of community multiple-entry visa. Note that they’re available at the Other nationalities will need to obtain a visa
to travel from Windhoek to Lüderitz or Ka- camping grounds and craft outlets around border for considerably less (normally US$25 for US citizens before they arrive in the country.
tima Mulilo. Overseas airmail post is normally the country. and $65 for UK citizens). However, they’re free if you’re
more efficient, and is limited only by the time ‘introduced’ to Zambia by a Zambian company (such as a Air
it takes the letter to get from where you post Tourist Offices Abroad hotel, backpackers’ hostel or tour company). Most international flights into Namibia land
it to Windhoek. Poste restante works best in Kartagener Associates Inc (%516-858 1270; Zimbabwe Australian, New Zealand and US citizens need at Windhoek’s Chief Hosea Kutako International
Windhoek (Poste Restante, GPO, Windhoek, kainyc@att.net; 631 Commack Rd, Suite 1A, Commack, NY a visa, which can be processed at the border (US$30/45 for Airport (WDH; %061-299 6602; www.airports.com.na),
Namibia). Photo identification is required to 11725, USA) single/double entry). However, you can also secure a visa 42km east of the capital city. Shorter-haul
collect mail. Namibia Tourism South Africa Cape Town (%Ca in advance for the same rates; multiple-entry visas cost international flights may also use Wind-
021-419 3190; namibia@saol.com; Main Tower, Standard US$55 and aren’t available at the border. hoek’s in-town Eros Airport (ERS; %051 299 6500),
TELEPHONE & FAX Bank Centre, Ground fl, Adderley St, PO Box 739, Cape although this airport mainly serves internal
Namibian area codes all have three digits and Town 8000, South Africa); Sandton (%011-784 80240; WORK flights and light-aircraft.
begin with %06. When phoning Namibia namtour@netdail.co.za; 11 Alice Lane, 3rd fl, East Wing, The chances of a foreigner scoring a long- The main carrier is Air Namibia, which
from abroad, dial the international access Standard Bank Bldg, PO Box 78946, Sandton 2146 South term Namibian work or residence permit are flies routes to and within Southern Africa as
code (%09 from South Africa, %011 from Africa) remote, but some are successful. Namibia’s cur- well as some international flights to London
the US and %00 from most other places), Namibia Tourism UK (%020-7636 2924; www rent policy is to accept only wealthy overseas and Frankfurt. Reservations are best handled
then the country code (%264), followed by .namibiatourism.co.uk; 6 Chandos St, London W1G 9LU) investors starting up a business in the country either by telephone or via the internet, rather
the area code (without the leading zero) and Namibia Verkehrsbüro (%069-1337 3620; www or those who can provide skills and expertise than through agencies.
the desired number. To phone out of Namibia, .namibia-tourism.com; Schillerstrasse 42-44, D-60313 that’s not locally available. If you are offered a
dial %00 followed by the country code, area Frankfurt-am-Main, Germany) job, you (or better, your prospective employer) AIRLINES FLYING TO & FROM NAMIBIA
code and number. must secure a temporary residence permit from Air Namibia (code SW; %061-299 6363; www
Telecom Namibia Flexicards (you buy only VISAS the Ministry of Home Affairs (Map p318; %061-292 2111; .airnamibia.com.na; hub Windhoek)
as much time as you want) are sold at post of- All visitors require a passport that is valid for mlusepani@mha.gov.na; Private Bag 13200, Windhoek). While British Airways (code BA; %199 712 266; www
fices and some retail shops, and most internet at least six months after their intended depar- it may be relatively easy to get a three-month .ba.com; hub Heathrow)
cafés also have fax services. Some remote bush ture date from Namibia, as well as a means work permit, to extend it or secure a one-year LTU (code LT; %49-211 9418 333; www.ltu.com; hub
locations subscribe to a message service oper- of leaving the region (a vehicle or an onward permit is usually quite difficult. Getting a per- Frankfurt)
ated by Walvis Bay Radio (%064-203581), which plane or bus ticket). No visas are required for manent residence permit may well subject you South African Airways (code SA; %020-22 96 63;
relays messages. Although mobile coverage visitors from Australia, New Zealand, France, to more insanity-inspiring bureaucracy than www.flysaa.com; hub Johannesburg)
is usually fine in major towns and cities, re- Germany, the UK, Ireland, Canada or the you’re prepared to face. Note that even mar- TAAG Angola (code DT; %244-222 333 139; http://
ception disappears as soon as you reach the USA. Tourists receive entry for an initial 90 rying a Namibian citizen won’t guarantee a pages.zdnet.com/taagangola; hub Luanda)
open road. days, but extensions are available from the permanent residence permit.
immigration offices. Border Crossings
TOURIST INFORMATION
Local Tourist Offices
Windhoek is useful for picking up visas for
Mozambique, Malawi, Zambia, Kenya and TRANSPORT IN Thanks to the Southern African Customs
Union, you can drive through Namibia, Bot-
Windhoek has both city and national tour-
ist offices, and Karibib, Usakos, Omaruru,
Tanzania; for Angolan visas, your best op-
tion is the Angolan Consulate in Oshakati NAMIBIA swana, South Africa and Swaziland with a
minimum of ado. To travel further to the
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NAMIBIA
Okahandja, Gobabis, Keetmanshoop, Lü- (see p337). north requires a carnet de passage, which
deritz, Swakopmund, Grootfontein and GETTING THERE & AWAY can amount to heavy expenditure and serious
Tsumeb all have private or municipal tour- Visas for Onward Travel This section covers access into Namibia from consideration.
ist information offices. Keep an eye out for You can pick up visas for several countries in neighbouring countries. You’ll find info about If you’re driving a hire car into Namibia
the free publication Welcome to Namibia – Windhoek; for details about how to go about reaching Southern Africa from elsewhere in you will need to present a letter of permis-
Tourist Accommodation & Info Guide, which this, see p390. Africa and other continents on p752. sion from the rental company saying the
 394 T R A N S P O R T I N N A M I B I A • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T R A N S P O R T I N N A M I B I A • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d 395

car is allowed to cross the border. For more The cost of the ferry is US$12 per vehicle; Africa and Swaziland, although if you’re plan- Grootfontein, Oshakati, Rundu and a route
information on taking a vehicle into Namibia pedestrians ride free. It’s about 4km from ning on travelling further north you will need across the Central Namib between Mariental
see p756. Katima Mulilo (Namibia), and 5km from to obtain one. and Walvis Bay. There’s also a connection
Sesheke (Zambia). If you don’t want to wait A vehicle registered outside Namibia can from Lüderitz to the border post at Noor-
ANGOLA for the ferry, you can opt for the small private be driven around the country so long as you doewer (US$9, five hours). These buses oper-
To enter Namibia overland, you’ll need an boats that carry passengers across the river for have proof of insurance and a letter from the ate on a first-come, first-serve basis.
Angolan visa permitting overland entry. See a negotiable fee – usually between US$0.50 hire-car agency giving you permission to cross
p392 for more information on visas. The main and US$1.50. The Zambian border crossing the border with the car. Everyone entering Car & Motorcycle
border crossings into Namibia are at Ruacana, is 500m from the ferry crossing and the Na- Namibia with a foreign-registered car must The easiest way to get around Namibia is
Oshikango and Rundu. mibian border crossing is 1km away. pay a Cross Border Charge (CBC). Passenger by road, and an excellent system of tarred
vehicles carrying fewer than 25 passengers are roads runs the length of the country from
BOTSWANA ZIMBABWE charged N$70 (US$10) per entry. Keep the the South African border at Noordoewer to
On Monday and Friday you can catch a very There’s no direct border crossing between receipt, because you may be asked to produce Ngoma Bridge on the Botswana border and
useful shuttle-bus service from Windhoek Namibia and Zimbabwe: to get there you it at police roadblocks. Ruacana in the northwest. Similarly, tarred
to Maun, via Ghanzi, with Audi Camp (see must take the Chobe National Park transit spur roads connect the main north–south
p109). The fare is US$55 per person one way route from Ngoma Bridge through northern GETTING AROUND routes to Buitepos, Lüderitz, Swakopmund
(10 hours). Shuttles leave Windhoek on Mon- Botswana to Kasane–Kazungula, and from Air and Walvis Bay. Elsewhere, towns and most
day and return from Maun on Wednesday. there to Victoria Falls. Air Namibia (www.airnamibia.com.na) has an exten- sites of interest are accessible on good gravel
Prebooking is essential. Contact Audi Camp At present, the only public transport be- sive network of local flights operating out of roads. Most C-numbered highways are well
to arrange a pick-up or drop-off in Ghanzi for tween Namibia and Zimbabwe is the weekly Eros Airport in Windhoek. There are regular maintained and passable to all vehicles, and
a negotiable fare. This may also be done as a Intercape Mainliner (www.intercape.co.za), which flights to Tsumeb; Rundu and Katima Mulilo; D-numbered roads, although a bit rougher,
return trip, including an inexpensive Audi travels between Windhoek and Victoria Falls Lüderitz and Alexander Bay (South Africa); are mostly (but not always) passable to 2WD
Camp safari in Botswana’s Okavango Delta. (US$73/144 one way/return, 21 hours, three and Swakopmund and Oshakati/Ondangwa. vehicles. In the Kaokoveld, however, most
Other than this, the public transport op- times weekly) via Grootfontein, Rundu and Passengers are allowed a baggage limit of D-numbered roads can only be negotiated
tions between the two countries are few Katima Mulilo. It departs Windhoek at 5pm 20kg; additional weight is US$2 per kilogram. with a 4WD.
and far between. The Trans-Kalahari Hwy on Monday, Wednesday and Friday and For details of Air Namibia’s local offices log See opposite for information on the docu-
from Windhoek to Botswana, via Gobabis, arrives in Victoria Falls at 2pm the follow- on to the website. mentation required for self-drivers.
crosses the border at Buitepos/Mamuno. A ing day. In the other direction, it leaves at
supposedly weekly Trans-Namib Star Line 11am Sunday, Wednesday and Friday and Bicycle DRIVING LICENCE
bus leaves Gobabis at 9am Friday for Ghanzi, arrives in Windhoek at 5.30am the follow- Namibia is a desert country and totally un- Foreigners can drive in Namibia on their
in Botswana (where you’ll find at least one or ing day. Although this bus passes through suitable for a biking holiday. Distances are home driving licence for up to 90 days, and
two daily buses to Maun), but this service is Botswana en route, it’s not possible to dis- great and horizons are vast; the climate and most (if not all) car-hire companies will ac-
highly unreliable. embark there. landscapes are hot and very dry; and, even cept foreign driving licences for car hire. If
Unfortunately, passengers on the Intercape along major routes, water is scarce and vil- your home licence isn’t written in English
Mainliner between Windhoek and Victoria Bus lages are widely spaced. What’s more, the then you’d be better off getting yourself an
Falls may not disembark in Botswana. There is only really one main inter-regional sun is intense and prolonged exposure to the International Driving Permit (IDP) before
bus service connecting cities in Namibia burning ultraviolet rays is hazardous. Also you arrive in Namibia.
SOUTH AFRICA with Botswana and South Africa. Intercape bear in mind that bicycles are not permitted
The Intercape Mainliner (%0861 287287; www.inter Mainliner (see p591) runs services between in any national parks. FUEL & SPARE PARTS
cape.co.za) service from Windhoek to Cape Windhoek and Gaborone (Botswana) and The cost of fuel (petrol) is relatively expensive
Town (US$70, 19½ hours) runs four times Johannesburg and Cape Town (South Af- Bus in Namibia, around US$0.75 per litre, but
weekly. Travelling between Jo’burg and Wind- rica). It also travels west to Swakopmund Namibia’s bus services aren’t extensive. Lux- prices vary according to the remoteness of
hoek (US$50, 10½ hours, four times weekly) and Walvis Bay. ury services are limited to the Intercape Main- the petrol station. Although the odd petrol
involves a connection in Upington. Students liner (%061-227847; www.intercape.co.za), which has station is occasionally open 24 hours, most
and seniors receive a 15% discount. Car & Motorcycle scheduled services from Windhoek to Swakop- are open from 7am to 7pm.
Bus tickets can be easily booked either by Crossing land borders with your own vehicle mund, Walvis Bay, Grootfontein, Rundu and As a general rule you should never pass
phone or via the internet. or a hire car is generally straightforward as Katima Mulilo. You’re allowed only two items a service station without filling up and it is
long as you have the necessary paperwork – of baggage, which must not exceed a total of advisable to carry an additional 100L of fuel
ZAMBIA the vehicle registration documents, proof of 30kg. Fares include meals. Reservations can (either in long-range tanks or jerry cans) if
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
The only crossing between Namibia and insurance and a letter from the hire company be made in advance either over the phone or you’re planning on driving in more remote
Zambia is via the Zambezi pontoon ferry at stating that you have permission to take the via the internet. areas.
Wenela/Sesheke. The only realistic way to car over the border. You won’t need a carnet The rail service, Trans-Namib (%061-29 22 02; Spare parts are readily available in most
cross the border at this point is if you have de passage to drive around Namibia and other www.transnamib.com.na/Starline.htm), has a system of major towns, but not elsewhere. If you are
your own car as there is no reliable public countries in the Southern African Customs Star Line buses that service Lüderitz, Ghanzi planning on some 4WD driving it is advisable
transport on the Zambian side of the border. Union (SACU), ie Lesotho, Botswana, South (Botswana), Outjo, Khorixas, Henties Bay, to carry the following: two spare tyres, jump
 396 T R A N S P O R T I N N A M I B I A • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T R A N S P O R T I N N A M I B I A • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d 397

leads, tow rope and cable, a few litres of oil, a hire your car from, make sure you understand Highway police use radar and love to fine transport bookings; national parks bookings; good advice;
wheel spanner and a complete tool kit. what is included in the price (unlimited kilo- motorists (about US$10, plus an additional and other travel services.
metres, tax, insurance, collision-waiver and so US$1 for every 10km you exceed the limit) Chameleon Safaris (Map p318; %/fax 061-247668;
HIRE on) and what your liabilities are. Most local for speeding. Sitting on the roof of a mov- www.chameleonsafaris.com; 8 Voight St, PO Box 6017,
For a compact car, the least-expensive com- insurance policies do not include cover for ing vehicle is illegal, and wearing seat belts Windhoek) This budget safari company is geared to back-
panies charge US$40 to US$60 per day (the damage to windshields and tyres. (where installed) is compulsory in the front packers and does a range of good-value safaris: six-day
longer the hire period, the lower the daily rate) Third-party motor insurance is a minimum (but not back) seats. Drink-driving is also Damaraland/Skeleton Coast (US$400); three-day Sossusvlei
with unlimited kilometres. Hiring a 4WD requirement in Namibia. However, it is also against the law, and your insurance policy (US$150); 18-day 4WD tour (US$950); 14-day Northern &
vehicle opens up remote parts of the coun- advisable to take Damage (Collision) Waiver, will be invalid if you have an accident while Southern Highlights (US$600); and seven-day Northern/
try, but it can get expensive at an average of which costs around US$20 extra per day for drunk. Driving without a licence is also a Southern Highlights (US$350 each).
US$80 per day. a 2WD; and about US$40 per day for a 4WD. serious offence. Crazy Kudu Safaris (%061-222636; fax 255074; www
Most companies include insurance and Loss (Theft) Waiver is also an extra that is If you have an accident causing injury, it .crazykudu.com; Windhoek) One of Namibia’s friendliest
unlimited kilometres in their standard rates, worth having. For both types of insurance, the must be reported to the authorities within 48 and most economical safari companies, Crazy Kudu does
but some require a minimum hire period excess liability is about US$1500 for a 2WD hours. If vehicles have sustained only minor 10-day all-inclusive ‘Namibia Explorer’ adventures through
before they allow unlimited kilometres. Note and US$3000 for a 4WD. If you’re only going damage and there are no injuries – and all northern and central highlights (US$440); a six-day
that some internationally known companies, for a short period of time it may be worth tak- parties agree – you can exchange names and northern highlights tour (US$275); and a three-day Sos-
such as Avis and Budget, charge amenable ing out the Super Collision Waiver, which cov- addresses and sort it out later through your susvlei Express tour (US$130), which may also be joined in
daily rates but only allow 200 free kilometres ers absolutely everything, albeit at a price. insurance companies. Swakopmund. All departures are guaranteed. They’ll also
per day. If one company’s rates seem quite a It is nearly always advisable to pay with a organise custom safaris: an Okavango Delta and Victoria
bit higher than another’s, check whether it ‘gold level’ credit card which will offer you Hitching Falls excursion; and Fish River or Kaokovveld extensions for
includes VAT, which would otherwise add some protection should anything go wrong and Hitching is possible in Namibia, but it’s illegal the best possible price.
15.5% to the quoted figure. Most companies will possibly cover you for collision as well. in national parks, and even main highways see Enyandi Safaris (%061-255103; enyandi@iafrica.com
also require a N$1000 (about US$155) deposit relatively little traffic. Truck drivers generally .na) This recommended company runs budget tours mainly
and won’t hire to anyone under the age of 23 PURCHASE expect to be paid around US$1.50 per 100km, in northwestern Namibia, starting at US$245 per person
(although some go as low as 21). Unless you’re going to be staying in Namibia so agree on a price before climbing in. Your for a seven-day trip.
It’s cheaper to hire a car in South Africa and for several years, it’s not worth purchasing a best options for lifts are Windhoek backpack- Felix Unite (%061-255488; fax 251400; rvanrooyen@af
drive it into Namibia, but you need permis- vehicle in-country. The best place to buy a ers’ lodges, where you can post notices about ricansolutions.org; www.felixunite.com) This water-
sion from the rental agency and paperwork to vehicle is across the border in South Africa. rides wanted or offered. (For warnings about oriented company runs river-rafting and canoeing ad-
cross the borders. Drivers entering Namibia in If you do buy a car with hard currency hitching, see p764.) ventures on the Kunene (US$700 for 10 days) and Orange
a foreign-registered vehicle must pay a N$70 and resell it in Namibia, you can remit the Rivers (US$160/180 for four/six days).
(US$10) road tax at the border. Most major same amount of hard currency to your home Tours Kaokohimba Safaris (%/fax 061-222378; www
international car-hire companies will also country without hassles – just keep the papers Namibia’s public transport system will get you .natron.net/tour/kaoko/himbae.htm; PO Box 11580,
allow you to take a vehicle to neighbouring and inform the bank in advance. to population centres, but not the sites most Windhoek) Kaokohimba organises cultural tours through
South Africa, Botswana and Zimbabwe, but visitors want to see: the Skeleton Coast, Dama- Kaokoveld and Damaraland and wildlife-viewing trips
only if you have cleared it with the company ROAD HAZARDS raland, the Kaokoveld, the Kunene River, Fish in Etosha National Park. A highlight is Camp Syncro, in
beforehand so they can sort out the paper- In addition to its fantastic system of tarred River Canyon, Sossusvlei, the Naukluft and remote Marienflüss.
work. Rental companies are less happy about roads, Namibia has everything from high- so on. Therefore, even those who’d normally Magic Bus Safaris(%061-259485, 0811 298093;
drivers going to Zambia and will not allow speed gravel roads to badly maintained main spurn organised tours may want to consider magicbus@iafrica.com.na; 5 Grieg St, Windhoek) This small
you to go anywhere else in Africa. routes, farm roads, bush tracks, sand tracks joining an inexpensive participation safari, or company runs budget trips from Windhoek to Sossusvlei
It is probably best to deal with one of the and challenging 4WD routes. Driving under a more luxurious option: (US$160 to US$190), Etosha (US$170), a seven-day combi-
major car-hire companies listed below. these conditions requires special techniques, Afro Ventures(%064-463812; www.afroventures nation (US$360) and other options.
Avis (www.avis.com) In Windhoek, Swakopmund, Tsumeb appropriate vehicle preparation, a bit of prac- .com; PO Box 1772, Swakopmund) Afro Ventures offers Muramba Bushman Trails (Map p325; %067-
and Walvis Bay as well as at the international airport. tice and a heavy dose of caution, see p380 for several Namibian highlights tours, focusing on fine lodges 220659; bushman@natron.net; PO Box 689, Tsumeb) This
Budget (www.budget.co.za) Another big agency with of- some tips. and 4WD tours. Its five- and seven-day Namib Desert tours recommended company, owned by Reinhard Friedrich,
fices in Windhoek and Walvis Bay as well as at the airport. explore the desert coast and dunes. It also runs the beauti- provides a unique introduction to the Heikum San people.
Imperial (www.imperialcarrental.co.za) Offices in Wind- ROAD RULES ful Sossusvlei Mountain Lodge. Namib Sky (%061-293233; namibsky@mweb.com.na;
hoek, Swakopmund, Tsumeb, Lüderitz, Walvis Bay and at To drive a car in Namibia, you must be at Campfire Safaris (%062-523946, 081 242 6116; PO Box 5197, Windhoek) For those who dream of looming
both Hosea Kutako and Eros airports. least 21 years old. Like most other Southern namibia@bigfoot.com; PO Box 4500, Rehoboth) This over the dunes in a balloon, this company offers Namib
Triple Three Car Hire (www.333.com.na) A competi- African countries, traffic keeps to the left economically priced company offers combi tours through Desert balloon flights for US$246 per person. The early-
NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA
tive local car-hire firm with offices in Swakopmund and side of the road. The national speed limit is a range of Namibian highlights. The booking agent is the morning flight departs before sunrise, when not a breath
Walvis Bay. 120km/h on paved roads, 80km/h on gravel Cardboard Box Travel Shop. of wind is stirring.
roads and 40km/h in all national parks and Cardboard Box Travel Shop (Map p318; %061- Okakambe Trails (%064-402799/405258, 0811
INSURANCE reserves. When passing through towns and 256580; www.namibian.org; PO Box 5142, Windhoek) 246626; D1901, PO Box 1668, Swakopmund) With
Although insurance is not compulsory it is villages, assume a speed limit of 60km/h, even This friendly agency offers bookings (including last-minute Okakambe, you can ride on horseback along the Swakop
strongly recommended. No matter who you in the absence of any signs. options) for all budget safaris; lodge, safari, car-hire and River to a moon landscape; it also organises longer trips.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
398 T R A N S P O R T I N N A M I B I A • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d lonelyplanet.com

Outside Adventures (%061-245595, 0812 2470329; US$350 for both); as well as longer participation safaris
www.namibia-adventures.com) These folks run excel- and accommodated excursions.
lent day tours from Windhoek: brewery tours (US$17),
mountain biking in Daan Viljoen (US$28), Arnhem Caves Trains
tours (US$45 to US$85), Katutura township tours (US$17) Trans-Namib Railways (%061-2982032; www.trans
and tours to see cheetahs, leopards and rhinos (US$45 to namib.com.na) connects most of the major towns,
US$70). but trains are extremely slow – as one reader
Turnstone Tours (%064-403123; www.turnstone remarked, moving ‘at the pace of an ener-
-tours.com; PO Box 307, Swakopmund) Turnstone runs getic donkey cart’. In addition, passenger and
4WD camping tours around Swakopmund, including Sand- freight cars are mixed on the same train, and
wich Harbour and Damaraland. Day tours are US$75 and trains tend to stop at every post. As a result,
all-inclusive longer trips cost US$300 per person per day. rail travel isn’t popular and services are rarely
West Coast Safaris (%/fax 061-256770) The company fully booked.
runs camping participation safaris, including seven-day Windhoek is Namibia’s railway hub, with
tours through Kaokoland (US$460); eight days in Ka- services south to Keetmanshoop and Upington
okoland and Etosha (US$447); seven-day wildlife tours to (South Africa), north to Tsumeb, west to Swa-
Etosha; Damaraland and Waterberg (US$442); seven-day kopmund and Walvis Bay and east to Goba-
Bushmanland tours (US$442); and Damaraland tours bis. Trains carry economy- and business-class
(US$460). seats but, although most services operate over-
Wild Dog Safaris (%061-257642; www.wilddog night, sleepers are no longer available. Book-
-safaris.com; 19 Johann Albrecht St, PO Box 26188, ings can be made at train stations or through
Windhoek) This friendly operation runs seven-day Northern the Windhoek Booking Office. The tickets
Namibia Adventures and Southern Swings (US$340 each); must be collected before 4pm on the day of
three-day Etosha or Sossusvlei circuits (US$160 each, or departure.

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
NAMIBIA

restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
 © Lonely Planet Publications
399

SOUTH AFRICA
South Africa
It’s no wonder that South Africa draws more visitors than anywhere else in sub-Saharan
Africa. World-class wildlife watching, cosmopolitan cities, stunning natural panoramas and
vibrant cultures make the country appealing to almost every taste and budget. Within the
space of a day, you can journey from vineyard-clad hillsides in the Western Cape to the vast
open spaces of the Kalahari, from Cape Town’s waterfront chic to isolated Zulu villages, from
elephant spotting in Kruger National Park to the pounding surf and sublime seascapes of
the coast. And, unlike many other areas of the continent, it’s possible to do all this while
still enjoying Western amenities and, for the most part, getting by in English.

Yet, while it’s easy to travel around South Africa focusing on the glitz and first-world
infrastructure, you’ll only get below the surface by seeking out the country’s other face –
most visible in the sprawling townships where far too many people live stalked by the
shadows of hunger, poverty and one of the highest HIV/AIDS infection rates in the world.
Behind its incredible natural beauty, South Africa is the stage for the daily drama of one of
the world’s greatest experiments in racial harmony. The intensity of this drama surrounds
you wherever you go, and will likely be one of the most fascinating and challenging aspects
of your travels. And, there’s never been a better time to experience this than now, as the
colours of the ‘rainbow nation’ finally begin to fuse.

FAST FACTS

Area: 1,233,404 sq km

Capital: Pretoria (administrative), Bloemfon-
tein (judicial) and Cape Town (legislative)

Country code: %27

Famous for: Nelson Mandela, ending apart-
heid, Zululand, cosmopolitan Cape Town,
Big Five wildlife

Languages: English, Afrikaans, Ndebele,
Sepedi, Setswana, Sotho, Swati, Tsonga,
Tswana, Tshivenda, Venda, Xhosa, Xitsonga,
Zulu

Money: Rand

Phrases: Dumela (hello; Sotho/Swati, Zulu),
howzit (hello; English), sala hantle/sala kahle
(goodbye; Sotho/Swati, Zulu)

Population: 46.9 million
SOUTH AFRICA 400 S O U T H A F R I C A • • H i g h l i g h t s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com S O U T H A F R I C A 401

SOUTH AFRICA
breathtaking views before returning to

120 miles
200 km
HOW MUCH?

Transfrontier Park
the throbbing heart of the country to get

WA Wilderness Area
NR Nature Reserve
NP National Park

Bottle of wine US$9 a taste of township life in Soweto (p544).

One month After a few days in Cape Town

Car hire per day US$40
(p415) and a trip to the top of Table Moun-

LEGEND

Kilo of mangoes US$0.80 tain (p419), tear yourself away from this

TP

Kruger National Park entry per wonderful city and head to the fertile

Greater St Lucia Wetland Park

valleys of the Winelands, with a night or

0
0
person US$16

Inhambane
MOZAMBIQUE
two in Stellenbosch (p438) or Franschhoek

Hluhluwe-Umfolozi NP

Surfboard US$200
(p442), and then via the scenic Route 62

Xai-Xai
through the Little Karoo to Oudtshoorn

INDIAN
OCEAN
LONELY PLANET INDEX
(p448), South Africa’s ostrich capital.

MAPUTO

1L of petrol US$0.70 Possible detours along the way include

Mtubatuba

Richards Bay
to Hermanus (p444) for whale watching, if

ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈ
Ὀ Lucia

1L of bottled water US$0.80

Pongola

Mkuze
Komatipoort

SWAZILAND

Golela
er
the season is right; Cape Agulhas (p446) for Riv

MBABANE

St

Can of Black Label beer US$0.95 po
the thrill of standing at Africa’s south- po

Amanzimtoti
Pietermaritzburg
m
Li

Port Shepstone
Empangeni

Souvenir T-shirt US$8

Durban
Ithala
ernmost point; or De Hoop Nature Reserve

Phalaborwa

Vryheid
GR

Ulundi
Thohoyandou

Mkambati NR
(p446). Make your way south, joining the

Louwsburg
Kruger

Roasted mealie (corn) US$0.30

Middelburg
Nelspruit

Dundee
NP

Blyde River
Canyon NR

Volksrust

Ladysmith
N2 along the Garden Route, near Knysna

Graskop
Sabie

Ermelo

Estcourt
Piet Retief

Port St Johns
N
4
(p453), with its sylvan setting, and Plet-

Standerton

Hluleka NR
Ficksburg Royal ra Bergville

Coffee Bay
Harrismith
HIGHLIGHTS

Messina
Makhado
(Louis Trichardt)
tenberg Bay (p456), a relaxed beachside re-

Madadeni
berg
r

Bethal

Newcastle

Dwesa NR
ve

Kokstad
Pass
L E S O T H O Sani
i

Silaka
Cape Town (p415) Marvel at the city’s ma- sort town. Recommended stops along the

Ladybrand Giant's s
Johannesburg

Heidelberg
PRETORIA

Vrede

n ts R

n
Pietersburg
Ellisras (Polokwane)

NR
e
fa

MASERU (3314m)
k
i
Martin's Drift

Castle

King William's Town

Ol
jestic setting and take a tipple tour of the coast include Tsitsikamma Coastal National

Bohlakong

N
D

2
Natal NP

East London
Vereeniging
N
1

Cintsa
area’s wineries. Park (p466) and Addo Elephant National

Tlokweng Gate-Kopfontein

Mthatha
Kroonstad
r

Rustenburg
ve

r
Kruger National Park (p528) Stay in a re- Park (p481). Move eastwards through the

ve
Ri

Ri
Virginia Bethlehem

Alfred
Sun City
po
mote bushveld camp and fall asleep to striking Wild Coast (p491), before spend-

Soweto

i
Ke

Fort Hogsback
po

N
1
ὈὈ Lim

at

Port
the sounds of grunting hippos. ing a day or so on the beach in Durban

Grahamstown
re

Alice
G
Potchefstroom

Thaba
'Nchu
er

Port Elizabeth
iv
Drakensberg mountain range (p516) Hike (p495). Head north into the heart of Zu-

N


n R

6
Mmabatho
Zeerust
do

Queenstown

Beaufort
Welkom

Sada
Aliwal North
le
Klerksdorp
the peaks of Royal Natal National Park’s luland (p509) or the Drakensberg (p516)

Ca

Cape St Francis
Jeffrey's Bay
Lichtenburg

BLOEMFONTEIN
magnificent Amphitheatre. or continue north for as much time as

N
1
GABORONE

Elephant NP
Kimberley
Bloemhof
Wild Coast (p491) Bum around the spec- possible enjoying the parks, including

Lobatse

Cradock

Somerset East
Addo
Mafikeng
r

Ramatlhabama

Tsitsikamma Uitenhage
Zebra NP
ve

Mountain
r
Ri

ve
Kanye
tacular beaches, hidden waterfalls and Mkhuze Game Reserve (p515) and Hluhluwe-

Ri

Middelburg
e
ng
Central Kalahari
l

De Aar
Va a
isolated reserves. Imfolozi Park (p512) before returning to

ra

Knysna Plettenberg
Vryburg

O
Khutse

Graaff-Reinet
Kuruman
GR

Coastal NP

Off the beaten track (p488) Leave every- Durban or making your way to Johan-

14
GR

Hotazel N

Vaalbos

Bay
NP

12
thing behind but the sun in the vast and nesburg for the flight home.

N
Prieska
BOTSWANA
magical Karoo.

Storms
River
CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO

Karoo

2 Mossel
NP
ITINERARIES

Oudtshoorn
South Africa has been favoured by nature

Beaufort West

Bay
George
Tshabong

10
N

Carnarvon

Two weeks Using Johannesburg (p540) as with one of the most temperate climates on

Stellenbosch Swellendam N

Hoop
N
1
Kalahari

Upington
a gateway, head east to South Africa’s the African continent, which can be visited

Desert

Bredasdorp NR
Cape Agulhas
Montagu

De
Noenieput
Kgalagadi
most convenient safari showpiece, Kruger comfortably any time. However, depending

Rietfontein
TP
National Park (p528). The teeming wildlife on what you plan to do, it’s worth paying

Nakop

Worcester
Calvinia

Cederberg

Hermanus
here and in the neighbouring private wild- attention to the seasons, which are the re-

WA

Ceres
life reserves (p532) will undoubtedly hold verse of those in the northern hemisphere.

Klein-Menasse

Ariamsvlei
MPUMALANGA

INDIAN
r

OCEAN
Rive

KWAZULU-

Good Hope False

To Windhoek

Bay
you captivated for at least several days. Winter (June to September) is cooler, drier ants

NATAL

(400km)
Olif

Orange River
NORTHERN
PROVINCE

Paarl
Springbok
If time is really tight, get a good taste and ideal for hiking and outdoor pursuits.
NORTH-WEST GAUTENG

Noordoewer

Cape of
CAPE TOWN
of things at Madikwe Game Reserve (p569) Because vegetation is less dense, and thirsty
SOUTH AFRICA

St Helena
Bitterfontein
EASTERN

Bay
N
STATE

or Pilanesberg National Park (p569), both animals congregate around rivers and other

Saldanha
7
CAPE
FREE

Keetmanshoop
PROVINCE
BOTSWANA

Vioolsdrif
easily reached from Johannesburg. From permanent water sources, winter is also the

NAMIBIA

ATLANTIC
Kruger, head south into KwaZulu-Natal, best time for wildlife watching. In the eastern
NORTHERN

McDougall's Bay

OCEAN
CAPE

WESTERN

where the dramatic valleys and peaks of highveld, nights are often crisp and clear, with
CAPE

Alexander
the Drakensberg mountains Royal Natal occasional frosts.

Bay
NAMIBIA
Provinces

National Park (p518) provide an endless Summer (late November to March) brings
array of captivating hikes. Head up Sani rain, mists and – in the lowveld – some un-
Pass (p522) to the Lesotho border for comfortably hot days. Along the Indian Ocean
SOUTH AFRICA 402 S O U T H A F R I C A • • H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com S O U T H A F R I C A • • H i s t o r y 403

SOUTH AFRICA
coast, conditions are sultry and tropical, with The Voortrekkers Meet the Zulu The Boers were disturbed by the foreigners, Without an enemy army to face, just com-
high humidity. The Great Trek’s first halt was at Thaba ‘Nchu, both black and white, who poured in follow- mandos who could instantly become innoc-
More of a consideration than weather are near present-day Bloemfontein, where a re- ing the discovery and were angry that their uous farmers, the British decided to exact
school holidays. From mid-December to Janu- public was established. Following disagree- impoverished republics were missing out on reprisals. If a railway line was blown up, the
ary, waves of vacation-hungry South Africans ments among their leadership, the various the money the mines brought in. nearest farmhouse was destroyed; if a shot was
stream out of the cities, with visitors from Voortrekker groups split apart, with most Meanwhile, Britain became nervous about fired from a farm, the house was burnt down,
Europe and North America adding to the crossing the Drakensberg into Natal to try the existence of independent republics in the crops destroyed and the animals killed.
crush. The absolute peak is from Christmas and establish a republic there. As this was Southern Africa, especially as gold had been The women and children from the farms were
to mid-January, followed by Easter. Accom- Zulu territory, the Voortrekker leader Piet found in the Transvaal. The solution, as usual, collected and taken to concentration camps –
modation in tourist areas and national parks Retief paid a visit to King Dingaan, and was was annexation and in 1877 the Transvaal lost a British invention. By the end of the war
is heavily booked, and prices can more than promptly massacred by the suspicious Zulu. its independence. 26,000 people, mainly children, had died of
double. On the plus side, the high summer This massacre triggered others, as well as a disease and neglect in the camps.
months offer some great festivals. revenge attack by the Boers. The culmination Anglo-Boer Wars On 31 May 1902 the Peace of Vereeniging
Spring (mid-September to November) and came in December 1838 at the Ncome River After the annexation, the Transvaal drifted was signed and the Boer republics became
autumn (April and May) are ideal almost in Natal. Several Boers were injured, while into rebellion and the First Anglo-Boer War, British colonies.
everywhere. Spring is also the best time to several thousand Zulus were killed, reportedly known by Afrikaners as the War of Independ-
see vast expanses of Northern Cape carpeted causing the Ncome’s waters to run red. ence, broke out. It was over almost as soon as British Rule
with wildflowers. After such a ‘miraculous’ victory (the result it began, with a crushing Boer victory at the The British response after their victory was a
of good tactics and vastly superior weaponry) Battle of Majuba in early 1881, and the repub- mixture of appeasement and insensitive impe-
HISTORY it seemed Boer expansion really did have that lic regained its independence as the ZAR. rialism. It was essential for the Boers and British
South Africa’s history extends back to around long-suspected stamp of divine approval, and With the discovery of a huge reef of gold to work together. The nonwhites were scarcely
40,000 BC when the San people first settled the 16 December victory was celebrated as in the Witwatersrand (the area around Johan- considered, other than as potential labour, de-
Southern Africa. By the 3rd century AD, the Day of the Vow until 1994, when it was nesburg) in 1886 and the ensuing explosive spite the fact that they constituted about 80% of
Bantu-speaking peoples were well estab- renamed the Day of Reconciliation. growth of Johannesburg itself, the ZAR was the combined population of the provinces.
lished in South Africa. Competing colonial suddenly host to thousands of uitlanders (for- Political awareness was growing, however.
European powers began settling here in small The Boer Republics eigners), black and white. Mohandas (later Mahatma) Gandhi was work-
numbers from the 17th century, mostly in Several short-lived Boer republics sprang up With little experience of towns, none of ing with the Indian populations of the Natal
the Cape. Widespread colonial settlement of but soon the only serious contenders were cities, and a deep suspicion of foreign ways, and Transvaal, and men like John Jabavu,
South Africa began in the 19th century. the Orange Free State and the Transvaal. The Kruger’s ZAR government did its best to isolate Walter Rubusana and Abdullah Abdurahman
British government, which commanded the the republic from the gold rush. The foreigners laid the foundations for new nontribal, black
The Great Trek strongest forces in the area, wasn’t at all sure paid taxes but were not allowed to vote. political groups.
From the 1820s, groups of Boers dissatisfied what it wanted. British officials in Africa often In 1899 the British demanded that voting Hard-up Boers flooded into the cities to
with British rule in the Cape Colony trekked had no idea whether they should be restrain- rights be given to the 60,000 foreign whites on find a world dominated by the English and
off into the interior in search of freedom. From ing Boers, protecting blacks, enforcing British the Witwatersrand. Kruger refused, demand- their language. Worst of all, they were forced
the mid-1830s increasing numbers of Voor- treaties or carving out new British colonies. ing that British troops massing on the ZAR to compete for jobs with blacks. Partly as a
trekkers (Fore-trekkers, pioneers) abandoned The Orange Free State was intermittently borders be withdrawn by 11 October – if they backlash to this, Afrikaans came to be seen
their farms and crossed the Orange River in at war with the powerful Basotho people – weren’t, he asserted, he would consider the as the volkstaal (people’s language) and as a
a decade of migration known as the Great sometimes with British assistance, sometimes republic to be at war. symbol of Afrikaner nationhood.
Trek. Reports from early treks told of vast, without. Finally, in 1871, the British annexed The British, confident that their vastly supe- The former republics were given repre-
uninhabited – or at least poorly defended – Basotholand. The Transvaal Republic’s prob- rior numbers of experienced troops would win sentative government in 1906–7, and moves
grazing lands. lems were mostly internal, with several leaders swiftly, took him on. Shocked to find that the towards union began almost immediately.
Tensions between the Boers and the gov- and breakaway republics threatening civil war Boers were no pushover, the British fell into
ernment had been building for some time, but until Paul Kruger (president of the Zuid-Af- disarray until reinforcements arrived. Lords Union of South Africa
the reason given by many trekkers for leaving rikaansche Republiek; ZAR – South African Roberts and Kitchener led an army of 450,000 The Union of South Africa was established on
was the 1833 act banning slavery. Republic, 1883–1900) settled the issue with a men against the 80,000 Boers from the ZAR, 31 May 1910. The British High Commission
The Great Trek coincided with the difaqane short, sharp campaign in 1864. the Free State and the Cape. The Boers gave Territories of Basotholand (now Lesotho),
(forced migration; see p41) and the Boers The financial position of the republics was way rapidly and by 5 June 1900 Pretoria, the Bechuanaland (now Botswana), Swaziland
mistakenly believed that what they found – always precarious and their economies de- last of the major towns, had surrendered. and Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe) were excluded
deserted pasture lands, disorganised bands pended entirely on cattle. Most trade was by It seemed that the war was over but instead from the Union.
of refugees and tales of brutality – was the barter. Just when it seemed that the republics, it entered a second, bitter phase. Commando English and Dutch became the official lan-
normal state of affairs. This mistaken assess- with their thinly spread population of fiercely raiders denied the British enemy control of guages – Afrikaans was not recognised as the
ment gave rise to the Afrikaner myths that independent Boers, were beginning to settle the countryside. There was no possibility that official language until 1925.
the Voortrekkers moved into unoccupied into stable states, diamonds were discovered the British could be defeated, but maintaining The first election was held in September
territory or arrived at much the same time near Kimberley in 1869. Britain stepped in an occupying army would be an expensive 1910. The South African National Party (soon
as the blacks. quickly and annexed the area. proposition for them. known as the South African Party, or SAP), a
SOUTH AFRICA 404 S O U T H A F R I C A • • H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com S O U T H A F R I C A • • H i s t o r y 405

SOUTH AFRICA
diverse coalition of Boer groups under Gen- Party, which quickly became the dominant Soon after, the PAC and ANC were banned countries imposed sanctions and the ANC and
eral Louis Botha and the brilliant General Jan force in Afrikaner political life. The Afrikaner and the security forces were given the right to PAC received direct support from the govern-
Smuts, won the election and Botha became the Broederbond, a secret ultra-nationalistic Afri- detain people indefinitely without trial. Prime ments of black Africa (with the exception of
union’s first prime minister. kaner brotherhood, became the extraordinarily Minister Verwoerd announced a referendum on Malawi and Swaziland). South Africa’s white
General Barry Hertzog raised some of the influential force behind the party. From 1948 whether the country should become a repub- governing elite increasingly saw the country
most divisive issues, championing Afrikaner to 1994 every prime minister and president lic. A slim majority of white voters gave their as a bastion besieged by communism, atheism
interests, advocating separate development was a member of the Broederbond. approval to the change and in May 1961 the and black anarchy.
for the two white groups and independence At the far right, the Ossewa-Brandwag Republic of South Africa came into existence.
from Britain. He and his supporters formed (Sentinels of the Ox-wagon, or OB) became Nelson Mandela became the leader of the Soweto Uprising
the National Party (NP). a popular militaristic organisation with strong underground ANC and Oliver Tambo went On 16 June 1976 the Soweto Students’ Rep-
Soon after the union was established a bar- German sympathies and an obvious affinity abroad to establish the organisation in exile. As resentative Council protests against the use
rage of repressive legislation was passed. It with Hitler’s doctrine of a master race. more black activists were arrested, the ANC and of Afrikaans (considered the language of the
became illegal for black workers to strike; PAC began a campaign of sabotage through the oppressor) in black schools. Police opened
skilled jobs were reserved for whites; blacks Apartheid armed wings of their organisations, respectively fire on a student march, starting a round of
were barred from military service; and pass The NP won the 1948 election on a platform Umkonto We Sizwe (Spear of the Nation; usu- nationwide demonstrations, strikes, mass ar-
laws, restricting black freedom of movement, of establishing apartheid (literally, the state of ally known as MK) and Poqo (Pure). In July rests and riots that, over the next 12 months,
were tightened. being apart). With the help of creative elec- 1963 Nelson Mandela, along with a number took more than 1000 lives.
In 1912, Pixley ka Isaka Seme formed a toral boundaries it held power right up to the of other ANC and communist leaders, was ar- Steve Biko, the charismatic leader of the
national democratic organisation to represent first democratic election in 1994. rested, charged with fomenting violent revolu- Black Consciousness movement, which
blacks. It was initially called the South African Mixed marriages were prohibited and inter- tion and sentenced to life imprisonment. stressed the need for psychological liberation
Native Congress, but from 1923 it was known racial sex was made illegal. Every individual and black pride, was killed in September 1977.
as the African National Congress (ANC). was classified by race. The Group Areas Act The Homelands Unidentified security police beat him until he
In 1913 the Natives Land Act set aside enforcing the physical separation of residential Verwoerd was assassinated in parliament in lapsed into a coma – he went without medical
7.5% of South Africa’s land for black occu- areas was promulgated. The Separate Ameni- 1966 (there was apparently no political motive) treatment for three days and finally died in
pancy. No black (and blacks made up over ties Act created separate public facilities – and was succeeded by BJ Vorster, who was Pretoria. At the subsequent inquest, the mag-
70% of the population) was allowed to buy, separate beaches, separate buses, separate followed in 1978 by PW Botha. Both men con- istrate found that no one was to blame.
rent or become a sharecropper outside this toilets, separate schools and separate park tinued to pursue the insane dream of separate South Africa was never the same again –
area. Thousands of squatters were evicted benches. The pass laws were further strength- black Homelands and a white South Africa. a generation of young blacks committed
from farms and forced into increasingly over- ened and blacks were compelled to carry iden- The plan was to restrict blacks to Home- themselves to a revolutionary struggle against
crowded reserves, or into the cities. tity documents at all times and were prohibited lands that were, according to the propaganda, apartheid and the black communities were
In 1914 South Africa, as a part of the British from remaining in towns, or even visiting to become self-sufficient, self-governing states politicised.
Empire, was drawn into war with Germany them, without specific permission. Thanks to on the traditional lands of particular tribal After changes to the constitution in 1983,
and saddled with the responsibility of deal- the Dutch Reformed churches, apartheid was groups. In reality, they had little infrastructure the powers of the state president were in-
ing with German South West Africa (now even given religious justification. and no industry and were therefore incapable creased and coloureds (mixed race) and In-
Namibia). This involvement on the British of producing sufficient food for the burgeon- dians were given a token role in government.
side prompted the last major violent Afrikaner Black Action ing black population. Under the plan, 13% Blacks were given no role at all.
rebellion – more than 300 men were killed. In 1949 the ANC for the first time advocated of the country’s total land area was to be the Violent protest built up steadily over the
After the war, South West Africa became a open resistance in the form of strikes, acts home to 75% of the population. next two years until, in 1985, the government
part of South Africa under ‘mandate’ from the of public disobedience and protest marches. Intense and widespread suffering was the declared a state of emergency that was to stay
League of Nations. These continued intermittently throughout result as blacks could not even move beyond in force for the next five years. The media was
the 1950s, with occasional violent clashes. their Homeland without a pass and explicit strictly censored and, by 1988, 30,000 people
Fusion In June 1955, at a congress held at Kliptown permission. had been detained without trial. Thousands
In 1924 the NP under Hertzog came to power, near Johannesburg, a number of organisa- Power proved irresistible to the leaders of were tortured.
with an agenda that included promoting Af- tions, including the Indian Congress and the Transkei, Bophuthatswana, Venda and Cis- Botha repealed the pass laws, but this failed
rikaner interests, independence and racial ANC, adopted a Freedom Charter setting out kei. Between 1976 and 1981 the collabora- to mollify black protesters and created a white
segregation. In the 1929 election the swaart- a vision of a nonracial democratic state. tors accepted a nominal independence, and backlash. His reforms also failed to impress
gevaar (black threat) was made the dominant On 21 March 1960 the Pan African Congress they then proceeded to crush all resistance the rest of the world, and economic sanctions
issue for the first time. (PAC) called for nationwide protests against to their rule and to that of the South African began to bite. Foreign banks refused to roll
In reality, the NP and the SAP were not the hated pass laws. When demonstrators sur- government. over government loans and the rand’s value
so far apart politically and, in 1933, the two rounded a police station in Sharpeville police collapsed. In late 1989 Botha was replaced by
formed a coalition (or fusion government), opened fire, killing 69 people and wounding International Conflict FW De Klerk.
with Hertzog as the prime minister and Smuts 160. To people in South Africa and the rest of In 1980 Robert Mugabe was elected prime
as his deputy. the world, the struggle had now crossed a cru- minister of an independent Zimbabwe, and Reform
Fusion was rejected by Dr DF Malan and his cial line – there could no longer be any doubts South Africa became the last white-controlled At his opening address to the parliament on
followers. They formed the Purified National about the nature of the white regime. state in Africa. Increasing numbers of Western 2 February 1990 De Klerk announced that he
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would repeal discriminatory laws and that the is no future, but without confession there can denial of the AIDS crisis invited global criticism, While crime continues to grab headlines
ANC, PAC and Communist Party were legal- be no forgiveness’. Many stories of horrific and his conspicuous failure to condemn the and undermine South Africa’s reputation as
ised. Media restrictions were lifted, and De brutality and injustice were heard by the com- forced reclamation of white-owned farms in a tourism destination, it’s important to keep
Klerk undertook to release political prisoners. mission, offering some catharsis to people and neighbouring Zimbabwe unnerved both South it in perspective. The slowly and often fitfully
On 11 February he released Nelson Mandela, communities shattered by their past. African landowners and foreign investors. emerging new South Africa is a unique and
after 27 years in jail. During 1990 and 1991 The commission operated by allowing vic- In the coming years – in addition to choos- refreshing place to visit, and one of the most
virtually all the old apartheid regulations were tims to tell their stories and perpetrators to ing a successor for Mbeki, who has announced inspiring and hope-filled places that you’ll
repealed. confess their guilt, with amnesty on offer to that he will step down in 2009 – attention find anywhere on the continent. Visiting is
On 21 December 1991 the Convention for those who made a clean breast of it. Those is likely to focus overwhelmingly on crime, a rare chance to experience a nation that is
a Democratic South Africa (Codesa) began who chose not to appear before the com- economic inequality, overhauling the educa- rebuilding itself after profound change. As
negotiations on the formation of a multiracial mission would face criminal prosecution if tion system and, especially, AIDS. With an a backdrop to all this is the stunning natural
transitional government and a new constitu- their guilt could be proven. Yet, while some estimated 4.5 million South Africans affected – magnificence, and the remarkably deep bond
tion extending political rights to all groups. soldiers, police and ‘ordinary’ citizens have more than in any other country in the world – that most South Africans feel for their land.
The Codesa negotiations did not proceed confessed their crimes, it seems unlikely that this scourge threatens to eclipse all of South South Africa has the highest incidence of
smoothly but both the NP and the ANC were the human-rights criminals who gave the Africa’s other problems. reported rape in the world, with approxi-
determined that free elections would take place orders and dictated the policies will present In recent years, efforts by AIDS activists mately 52,000 cases reported to the police
at some time. However, thrashing out the de- themselves (PW Botha is one famous no- and NGOs have focused on urging the govern- annually, and a woman is assaulted every 26 to
tails was complex and the ANC suspected the show), and it has proven difficult to gather ment to make anti-retroviral drugs available 60 seconds on average. Some women’s groups
government of dragging out the process. evidence against them. for treatment for all AIDS sufferers, and on say the real figures are much worse, because
The talks, by now a negotiation between reducing the major social stigma associated many women are too afraid to report the
the NP and the ANC, excluded the smaller Free Elections – Round Two with infection. While huge strides have been crime. Even more saddening is the fact that at
parties, including the predominantly Zulu In 1999, South Africa held its second demo- made – with many provinces now providing least 20% – some places the figure is closer to
Inkatha Freedom Party, which demanded a cratic elections. In 1997 Mandela had handed widespread access to treatment – there is still 40% – of reported rapes and attempted rapes
federal structure for the new constitution. over ANC leadership to his deputy, Thabo a long way to go. are of girls below 18 years of age.
Right-wing whites, who wanted a Volkstaat Mbeki, and there was speculation that the
(literally People’s State; a Boer Homeland), ANC vote might therefore drop. In fact, it THE CULTURE Daily Life
joined them in an unlikely alliance. increased to put the party within one seat of The National Psyche It’s difficult to present a unified picture of every-
Now, with white support drifting to the right- the two-thirds majority that would allow it to More than a decade has passed since South day life in South Africa. Many middle-class and
wing parties, the National Party needed to hurry alter the constitution. Africa’s first democratic elections, and the wealthy families live in heavily secured homes
negotiations. A compromise was reached and The NP, restyled as the New National Party country is still finding its way. While the and spend their leisure time in equally fortified
both sides accepted a five-year, post-election (NNP), lost two-thirds of its seats, as well as streets pulsate with the same determination shopping centres. Guards patrol the walkways
interim government of national unity. official opposition status to the Democratic and optimism that fuelled the liberation strug- and shops to keep criminals at bay, there’s still
Party (DP) – traditionally a stronghold of gle, the beat is tempered by the sobering social a lingering sense of fear and loss connected with
Free Elections liberal whites, with new force from conserva- realities that are the legacy of apartheid’s long the passing of the old regime, and conversations
Across the country at midnight on 26–27 tives disenchanted with the NP, and from years of oppression and bloodshed. Freedom are peppered with gloomy predictions about the
April 1994, ‘Die Stem’ (the old national an- some middle-class blacks. Coming in just has also brought with it a whole new set of government and the future.
them) was sung and the old flag was lowered. behind the DP was the KwaZulu-Natal–based challenges. Life is very different for the millions of
Then the new rainbow flag was raised and Inkatha Freedom Party (IFP), historically the Unemployment, crime and HIV/AIDS South Africans who are still living in poverty.
the new anthem, ‘Nkosi Sikelele Afrika’ (God voice of Zulu nationalism. While the IFP lost are the top concerns of most South Africans Tiny matchbox houses are home to large ex-
Bless Africa), was sung. some support, its leader, Chief Mangosouthu today, and the nation is fast becoming a so- tended families, clean drinking water remains
The ANC won 62.7% of the vote, less than Buthelezi, held onto power as the national ciety divided by class rather than colour. The a luxury in some areas, and health facilities are
the 66.7% which would have enabled it to Home Affairs Minister. gap between rich and poor is vast – one of the not uniformly available.
overrule the interim constitution. As well as highest in the world, according to World Bank Yet, township life is vibrant and informal.
deciding the national government, the election South Africa Today statistics. Manicured suburbs rub shoulders People gather on street corners and in local
decided the provincial governments, and the While Mbeki is viewed with far less affection by with squalid townships where clean drinking bars known as ‘shebeens’. Weddings are big
ANC won in all but two of the provinces. The the ANC grassroots than the beloved ‘Madiba’ water is a scarce commodity, and palatial events, and frequently spill onto the streets with
National Party won 20.4% of the vote, enough (Mandela), he has proven himself a shrewd pol- residences overlook cramped tin-roofed shan- plenty of dancing. If you’re passing by, don’t be
to guarantee it representation in cabinet. itician, maintaining his political pre-eminence ties. Violent crime has stabilised at unac- surprised if you’re encouraged to join in.
by isolating or coopting opposition parties. The ceptably high levels, and a generation that Unfortunately, funerals are becoming one
Rewriting History 2004 national elections were won decisively by saw almost daily brutality and uncertainty of the most common gatherings in South
After the elections, focus turned to the Truth the ANC with 70% of the votes, with Mbeki during its formative years is now coming of Africa, and on weekends, cemeteries are rou-
& Reconciliation Commission (1994–99), at the helm, and today the ANC continues its age. Although the formal racial divisions of tinely crowded with mourners. Many of those
which worked to expose crimes of the apart- dominance in daily political life. apartheid have dissolved, shadows and old who are dying are youth, and people spend
heid era under the dictum of Archbishop Yet it has not been all clear sailing. In the ways of interacting remain, and suspicions their time attending the funerals of one rela-
Desmond Tutu: ‘Without forgiveness there early days of his presidency, Mbeki’s effective and distrust still run high. tive after the next.
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Cape Muslims are South Africans of long province. At the other end of the scale is
MOVERS & SHAKERS: NELSON MANDELA standing. Although many were brought to the rural and underdeveloped Eastern Cape,
Nelson Rolihlahla Mandela is without doubt one of the global leaders of the millennium. Once the early Cape Colony as slaves, others were where up to 20% of adults have never received
vilified by South Africa’s ruling whites and sentenced to life imprisonment, he emerged from 27 political prisoners from the Dutch East Indies. any formal schooling.
years of incarceration calling for reconciliation and forgiveness, and was able to rally together Most South Africans of Indian descent live in Millions of immigrants from across the
all South Africans at the most crucial of times. KwaZulu-Natal. continent make their way to South Africa to
Mandela, son of a Xhosa chief, was born on 18 July 1918 in the small village of Mveso on the Limpopo, Mpumalanga and the Free State take advantage of the country’s powerhouse
Mbashe River. When he was young the family moved to Qunu, south of Umtata in what is now are the Afrikaner heartlands. People of British economy. Many of these who are considered
Eastern Cape. Here he grew up living a typical rural life, while at the same time being groomed descent are concentrated in KwaZulu-Natal, illegal live in Jo’burg’s impoverished inner
for a future position in the tribal leadership. After attending school at the University College Western Cape and Eastern Cape. city, causing resentment among some South
of Fort Hare, Mandela headed to Jo’burg, where he soon became immersed in politics. He also The Homelands no longer have any politi- Africans who accuse the outsiders of taking
finished his law degree and, together with Oliver Tambo, opened South Africa’s first black law cal meaning and were never realistic indica- jobs and creating crime.
firm. Meanwhile, in 1944, together with Tambo and Walter Sisulu, Mandela formed the Youth tors of the area’s cultural diversity, however
League of the African National Congress (ANC), which worked to turn the ANC into a nation- it’s still useful to have some idea of where the SPORT
wide grassroots movement. During the 1950s, Mandela was at the forefront of the ANC’s civil Homelands were and who lived (and still live) South Africans are sports fanatics, and after
disobedience campaigns. Various arrests and detention followed. After the ANC was banned in in them. Zulus are the largest group (seven decades of being shut out of international
the wake of the Sharpeville massacre, Mandela advocated establishing its underground military million), followed by the Xhosa (six million) competition, the national teams are now hun-
wing, Umkhonto we Sizwe. In 1964, Mandela was brought to stand trial for sabotage and foment- and the various Northern Sotho peoples, most gry for glory. Football, followed by rugby and
ing revolution in the widely publicised Rivonia Trial. After brilliantly arguing his own defence, of whom are Tswana. The smallest group are cricket, is the most popular spectator sport.
he was sentenced to life imprisonment, and spent the next 18 years in the infamous Robben the Venda (500,000). The majority of football fans are black, while
Island prison, before eventually being moved to the Victor Verster prison near Paarl, from where Superficially, urbanised European culture cricket and rugby attract predominately white
he was later released. doesn’t seem to differ much from other West- crowds, although this is slowly changing.
Throughout his incarceration, Mandela repeatedly refused to compromise his political beliefs ern countries. However, the unique experience South African rugby, in particular, is
in exchange for freedom, saying that only free men can negotiate. Among other things, he of the white people of Africa has given them still struggling to shake its reputation as a
rejected offers of release in exchange for recognising the independence of the Transkei (and a self-awareness that has raised culture to an whites-only domain, despite the inclusion
thereby giving tacit approval of the legitimacy of the apartheid regime). issue of central importance. Those of Afrikaner of black players and officials. Development
On 18 February 1990, Mandela was released and in 1991 he was elected president of the ANC. and British descent form distinct subgroups. programmes are nurturing talent across the
From this position, he continued the negotiations (which had started secretly while he was in South Africa’s Gauteng province, which colour divides, and both rugby and cricket
prison) to demolish apartheid and bring an end to minority rule. In 1993, Mandela shared the includes Johannesburg (Jo’burg) and Pretoria, are now played regularly in Soweto and in
Nobel peace prize with FW de Klerk and, in the first free elections the following year, was elected is the most densely populated and urbanised some other townships. Victory in the 1995
president of South Africa. In his much-quoted speech, ‘Free at Last!’, made after winning the 1994
elections, he focused the nation’s attention firmly on the future, declaring, ‘This is the time to
heal the old wounds and build a new South Africa’. ABUSING RIGHTS OF ADMISSION Simon Richmond
In 1997, Mandela – or Madiba, his traditional Xhosa name – stepped down as ANC president, Because of its recent history of apartheid, racial discrimination remains a prominent issue in
although he continues to be actively involved in politics as an elder statesman. South Africa, one that nearly everyone is sensitive about. When a Cape Town newspaper, the
Cape Argus, recently ran an investigation into whether backpacker lodges were using race-
based criteria when they accepted guests, what they found was disturbing. Two undercover
Thousands of households in South Africa sifications – as African (at various times also reporters – one young black man, one young white woman – were sent to six of the city’s
are now headed by children whose parents have called ‘native’ and ‘Bantu’, and sometimes now lodges; at three the black reporter was told the lodge was full, while his white counterpart
died from AIDS. AIDS is the leading cause of also ‘black’), coloured, Asian or white – were was offered a room.
death in South Africa (it accounts for about often arbitrary and highly contentious. They The lodges that had refused entry to the black reporter defended their rights to decide whom
30% of deaths nationwide). Sometimes the only were used to regulate where and how people to grant admission to. Such rights of admission policies are common – not just in backpacker
survivors from an entire family are the eldest could live and work, and became the basis for lodges, and not just in South Africa. The security and comfort of existing guests has to be re-
children, who were born before their parents institutionalised inequality and intolerance. spected, and we acknowledge the necessity for establishments to make split-second decisions
became infected. A large number of grand- Today, these times are fading into history, on whether a potential customer should be allowed entry or not – and how difficult it is to get
parents who have nursed and lost their adult although now discrimination based on wealth this right all the time.
offspring to AIDS are also looking after their is threatening to replace racial discrimination. From the Cape Argus’s investigation and other reports sent to Lonely Planet it would seem that
orphaned grandchildren, many of whom are Yet the apartheid-era classification terms con- rights of admission policies are occasionally abused. In particular, if you’re a black or coloured
also HIV-positive. tinue to be used. While we’ve also used these South African male, the chances of you being refused entry are likely to be higher than if you’re
terms in this chapter, they work only to a cer- a black or coloured South African female, a white South African or an overseas visitor. This could
Population & People tain extent, and within each of the four major happen whether you just turn up at a hostel or make an advance booking.
During the apartheid era, the government categories are dozens of subgroups that are Establishments rated by the South African Grading Council can be stripped of their stars if
attempted to categorise everyone into one of even more subjective and less clearly defined. found to be racially discriminating against guests. We urge all travellers who experience racial
four major groups – easily enough said, per- Most of the ‘coloured’ population lives in discrimination to share their stories with both local tourism authorities and us – such information
haps, but disastrous to implement. The clas- Northern Cape Province and Western Cape. is taken into account for upcoming guides.
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Rugby World Cup was a turning point, and Secretary-General of the ANC. In 1930, his Visual Arts African continent. On three sides, it’s edged by
the image of President Nelson Mandela cel- epic romance, Mhudi, became one of the first South African art had its beginnings with the a windswept and stunningly beautiful coast-
ebrating while wearing a Springboks jersey books published in English by a black South San, who left their distinctive designs on rock line, winding down the Atlantic seaboard in
became a symbol of reconciliation. African. faces and cave walls throughout the region. the west, and up into the warmer Indian Ocean
In 2010, South Africa will host the football In 1948, Alan Paton’s Cry, the Beloved Coun- When European painters arrived, many of waters to the east.
World Cup. The big local match is the Soweto try became an international bestseller. Today, their early works centred on depictions of Much of the country consists of a vast pla-
Derby, pitting Jo’burg’s ‘Orlando Pirates’ and this beautifully crafted, lyrical tale of a black Africa for colonial enthusiasts back home, teau averaging 1500m in height, and known
‘Kaizer Chiefs’ teams against each other. Wher- priest who comes to Jo’burg to find his son is although with time, a more South Africa– as the highveld. To the east is a narrow coastal
ever you are in the country, if a local invites still one of the country’s most widely recog- centred focus developed. plain (the lowveld), while to the northwest is
you to a game, don’t miss it. And if you’re in nised titles. Another Paton classic is Too Late Black artists were sidelined for many dec- the low-lying Kalahari Basin. The dramatic
the townships, watch for football stars cruising the Phalarope, which looks at the Afrikaner ades. Gerard Sekoto was one of the first to Drakensberg Escarpment marks the point
the streets in their expensive cars, enjoying psyche and the inhumanity of apartheid. break through the barriers. At about the same where the highveld plummets down towards
their pop-star status among their fans. During the 1950s, Drum magazine became time that Sekoto was gaining prominence, the eastern lowlands.
the focal point of lively satire, fiction and a Sophiatown neighbour, John Koenakeefe
RELIGION comment, and routinely drew attention as a Mohl, began spearheading artistic instruc- Wildlife
Around 75% of South Africans identify them- major anti-apartheid mouthpiece, eventually tion and schooling for young black artists. In ANIMALS
selves as Christians. Major South denomina- launching the careers of numerous prominent 1960, he was one of the founding members of South Africa is home to one of the most mag-
tions include the Nederduitse Gereformeerde journalists and authors. the Artists’ Market Association, which was set nificent groupings of wildlife on the planet.
(NG) or Dutch Reformed Churches, which In the 1960s, future Nobel laureate Nadine up to provide a showcase for young talent – You probably have a better chance of seeing
have a national congregation of more than 3.5 Gordimer began publishing her first books, today continued in Artists Under the Sun. the Big Five – the black rhino, Cape buffalo,
million people and more than 1200 churches but her most famous novel, July’s People, was elephant, leopard and lion – in South Africa
across the country, and the considerably more released in 1981, and depicts the collapse of Theatre & Dance than anywhere else. On even just a short
flamboyant Zion Christian Church (ZCC), with white rule. During the colonial era, South African theatre visit to the country’s parks you are almost
an estimated four million followers. Every year It was also in the 1960s and into the ’70s was dominated by European and American guaranteed to see dozens of creatures, and
more than one million ZCC members gather at that Afrikaner writers like Breyten Breyten- plays staged for local audiences. But home- the chance to spot the big cats and great
Zion city near Polokwane in Limpopo Province bach and André Brink began to gain promi- grown playwrights, performers and directors herd animals is one of the region’s prime
during festivals at Easter and in September. nence as powerful voices for the opposition. gradually emerged, particularly in the 1930s, attractions. See the boxed text, p61 for tips
Despite their disproportionately large so- Brink’s classic novel, A Dry White Season, when theatre began to gain popularity in the on wildlife viewing.
cial influence, Muslims, Hindus and Jews portrays the lonely struggles of a white South townships. One of the first black South African The best time for wildlife watching is the
combined make up less than 6% of South Af- African who discovered the truth about a writers to have his work published in English cooler, dry winter (June to September) when
ricans. The rest of the population are atheist, black friend who died in police custody. An- was Herbert Dhlomo, who won acclaim for his foliage is less dense, and animals congregate at
agnostic and a small number of people who other Brink title, The Rights of Desire, is a tale 1936 drama The Girl Who Killed to Save. waterholes, making spotting easier. Summer
follow traditional African beliefs. of post-apartheid South Africa. Athol Fugard played a crucial role in de- (late November to March) is rainy and hot,
Up to two-thirds of South Africa’s Indians The 1970s also gave rise to several influ- veloping and nurturing black theatrical talent with the animals more widely dispersed and
have retained their Hindu faith, and today ential black poets, including Mongane Wally by establishing troupes in Port Elizabeth and often difficult to see. However, the landscape
most of the country’s Hindus are of Indian Serote, a veteran of the liberation struggle. His Jo’burg during the 1950s. By the 1960s and turns beautiful shades of green around this
decent. Islam has a small but growing fol- work, including the moving epic poem ‘No ’70s, theatre and politics were inextricably in- time and bird life is abundant.
lowing, particularly in the Cape. The Jewish Baby Must Weep’, served as a rallying force tertwined and several artists were arrested and South Africa hosts over 800 bird species, in-
community is estimated to be around 100,000, for those living under apartheid. others had their work banned. The innovative cluding the world’s largest bird (the ostrich),
mostly in Jo’burg. John Maxwell (JM) Coetzee was also pub- two-man show Woza Albert!, portraying Jesus its heaviest flying bird (Kori bustard), and
African traditional believers are a small lished in the 1970s, although it wasn’t until Christ arriving in apartheid-era South Africa, vividly coloured sunbirds and flamingos. Also
group, although their traditions and practices two decades later that he gained international won rave reviews and international acclaim. here in abundance are weavers, who share
have a significant influence on the cultural acclaim. His novel Disgrace – a powerful, In 1974, run-down buildings at Jo’burg’s their huge city-like nests with pygmy falcons,
fabric and life of the region. The use of muti, brittle and complex look at South African old ‘Indian’ fruit market were converted to the world’s smallest raptors.
or traditional medicine, is widespread, even social realities – was released in 1999 and won become the Market Theatre, with patrons and Bird-watching is good year-round, with
among those who practise Christianity. Coetzee his second Booker Prize. Coetzee won performers defying the apartheid government’s spring (August to November) and summer
the Nobel Prize for Literature in 2003. notorious Group Areas Act to ensure that it the best.
ARTS One of the most prominent contemporary become an all-race venue. Today, the Market
For information on music in South Africa and authors is Zakes Mda, who – with the pub- Theatre is still one of the best-known perform- Endangered Species
the region, see p52. lication of Ways of Dying in 1995 – made a ance spaces in the country (see p549). The black rhino is the highest-profile entry on
successful transition from poetry and plays South Africa’s threatened species list (good
Literature to become an acclaimed novelist. His most ENVIRONMENT places to spot these include Mkhuze Game
Many of the first black South African writers recent book, The Whale Caller (2005), takes The Land Reserve, p515 and Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park,
were missionary-educated, including Solo- a somewhat sceptical look at the optimism South Africa spreads over 1,233,404 sq km – p512), and the riverine rabbit is the coun-
mon Tshekisho Plaatje, who was also the first surrounding the new South Africa. five times the size of the UK – at the tip of the try’s most endangered mammal. The wild dog
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(seen with luck in Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park) is national parks and reserves is ploughed back
also endangered, as is the roan antelope. into these areas, thus ensuring that future TOP PARKS & RESERVES
Endangered bird species include the grace- visitors will be able to collect their own un- Location Features Activities Best Time Page
ful wattled crane and the blue swallow. The forgettable memories. Park to Visit
African penguin and the Cape vulture are The majority of the larger wildlife parks
considered threatened. are under the jurisdiction of the South African Cape Peninsula
National (SAN) Parks Board (%012-428 9111; www Table Mountain rocky headlands, seascapes; water birds, hiking, year-round p419
PLANTS .sanparks.org), except for those in KwaZulu-Natal, National Park bonteboks, elands, African penguins mountain biking
Over 20,000 plant species sprout from South which are run by KZN Wildlife (%033-845 1000; Western Cape
Africa’s soil – an amazing 10% of the world’s www.kznwildlife.com). Several other provinces also Cederberg mountainous and rugged; San rock paintings hiking year-round p457
total, although the country constitutes only have conservation bodies that oversee smaller Wilderness Area bizzare sandstone formations, abundant
1% of the earth’s land surface. conservation areas within their boundaries. plant life
Dozens of flowers that are domesticated Komatiland Eco-Tourism (%013-754 2724; www.komati Mpumalanga/
elsewhere grow wild here, including gladi- ecotourism.co.za) oversees forest areas, promotes Limpopo
Kruger National savanna, woodlands, thornveld; the Big Five vehicle safaris, Jun-Oct p528
olus, proteas, birds of paradise and African ecotourism and manages several hiking trails Park and many more guided wildlife walks
lilies. South Africa is also the only country around Mpumalanga. Other useful contacts Blyde River Canyon canyon, caves, river; stunning vistas hiking, kloofing year-round p536
with one of the world’s six floral kingdoms include Cape Nature Conservation (%021-426 0723; Nature Reserve
within its borders. www.capenature.org.za) and the Eastern Cape Tourism Northern Cape
In the drier northwest, there are succulents Board (%043-701 9600; www.ectb.co.za). Augrabies Falls desert, river, waterfalls; klipspringers, rock hiking, canoeing, Apr-Sep p464
(dominated by euphorbias and aloes), and an- All South African national parks charge National Park dassies; striking scenery rafting
nuals, which flower brilliantly after the spring a daily entry (‘conservation’) fee. Amounts Richtersveld mountainous desert; haunting beauty hiking Apr-Sep p465
rains, and are one of Northern Cape’s major vary; see individual park listings for detail. National Park klipspringers, jackals, zebras, plants, birds
tourist attractions. One way to save is to consider purchasing a Eastern Cape
In contrast to this floral wealth, South Wild Card from SAN Parks. There are dif- Addo Elephant dense bush, coastal grasslands, forested vehicle safaris, walking year-round p481
Africa has few natural forests. They were ferent versions of the card, including one for National Park kloofs; elephants, black rhinos, buffaloes trails, horse riding
never extensive, and today only remnants foreign tourists which gives you 10 days’ entry Tsitsikamma coast, cliffs, rivers, ravines, forests; Cape hiking year-round p466
remain. Temperate forests occur on the into any one park for US$107 (US$188 per National Park clawless otters, baboons, monkeys, rich
southern coastal strip between George and couple, US$241 per family). This isn’t much birdlife
KwaZulu-Natal
Humansdorp, in the KwaZulu-Natal Draken- of a saving for some of the less expensive Hluhluwe-Imfolozi lush, subtropical vegetation, rolling savanna; wilderness walks, May-Oct p512
sberg and in Mpumalanga. Subtropical forests parks, but if you’re planning at least five days Park rhinos, giraffes, lions, elephants, lots of birds wildlife watching
are found northeast of Port Elizabeth in the in Kruger National Park (where the daily Greater St Lucia wetlands, coastal grasslands; elephants, wilderness walks, Mar-Nov p513
areas just inland from the Wild Coast, and in entry fee is US$16), it’s worth buying. SAN Wetland Park birds, hippos vehicle/boat safaris
KwaZulu-Natal. Parks also has cards targeted at different park Mkhuze Game savanna, woodlands, swamp; rhinos and guided walks, bird year-round p515
In the north are large areas of savanna, clusters. For details on acquiring a Wild Card, Reserve almost everything else; hundreds of bird walks, vehicle safaris
dotted with acacias and thorn trees. see www.wildinafrica.com. species
In addition to its national parks, South Af- uKhahlamba- awe-inspiring Drakensberg escarpment; hiking year-round p516
National Parks & Reserves rica is also party to several transfrontier parks Drakensberg Park fantastic scenery and wilderness areas
South Africa has close to 600 national parks joining conservation areas across international Free State
and reserves, collectively boasting spectacular borders. These include Kgalagadi Transfron- Golden Gate Highlands spectacular sandstone cliffs and outcrops; hiking year-round p565
scenery, impressive fauna and flora, excellent tier Park (p121), combining Northern Cape’s National Park zebras, jackals, rheboks, elands, birds
facilities and reasonable prices. Many are en- old Kalahari Gemsbok National Park with
closed within fences, intended to minimise Botswana’s Gemsbok National Park; and the
conflict between the animals and their human ambitious Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park, of ultimately increasing the total amount of of the apartheid era – with huge population
neighbours. Yet, due to the vast spaces, you’ll which spreads nearly 100,000 sq km (larger conservation land to over 10%. concentrations in townships that generally
generally only see the fences when you drive than Portugal) across the borders of South lack adequate utilities and infrastructure.
through the park gates – the wildlife itself is Africa, Mozambique and Zimbabwe. Environmental Issues Land degradation is one of the most serious
satisfyingly and completely wild. Visiting the Private wildlife reserves also abound and South Africa is the world’s third most biologi- problems, with about 25% of South Africa’s
parks and reserves will likely be the highlight while entry to these generally costs more than cally diverse country. It’s also one of Africa’s land considered to be severely degraded. In
of your visit. The most famous feature wildlife, their public equivalents, you can often get most urbanised, with approximately 60% former homeland areas, years of overgrazing
while others are primarily wilderness sanctu- closer to the animals. of the population living in towns and cities. and overcropping have resulted in massive
aries or hiking areas. In total, just under 7% of South African Major challenges for the government include soil depletion. This, plus poor overall condi-
When on safari, it’s worth remember- land has been given protected status. The gov- managing increasing urbanisation and popu- tions, is pushing people to the cities, further
ing that wildlife tourism is one of the main ernment has started teaming up with private lation growth while protecting the environ- increasing urban pressures.
sources of revenue for conservation efforts landowners to bring private conservation land ment. The picture is complicated by a distorted Water is another issue. South Africa re-
in South Africa. The money you spend in under government protection, with the goal rural-urban settlement pattern – a grim legacy ceives an average of only 500mm of rainfall
SOUTH AFRICA 414 S O U T H A F R I C A • • F o o d & D r i n k lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com C A P E T O W N • • H i s t o r y 415

SOUTH AFRICA
annually, and droughts are common. To meet
demand, all major South African rivers have
been dammed or modified. While this has
a crust, served with stewed fruits and chut-
ney), waterblommetjie bredie (water-flower
stew; meat stewed with the flower of the Cape
CAPE TOWN explain the unique character of the city’s Cape
Muslim population.
In the 150-odd years of Dutch rule, Kaap-
improved water supplies to many areas, it has pondweed) and malva (apricot pudding). %021 / pop 3,140,600 stad, as the Cape settlement became known,
also disrupted local ecosystems and caused Good looking, fun-loving, sporty and laid- thrived and gained a wider reputation as the
increased silting. CURRIES back. If Cape Town was in the dating game ‘Tavern of the Seven Seas’, a riotous port used
Along with Mahatma Ghandi, India’s other that’s how her profile would read. And – for by sailors travelling between Europe and the
FOOD & DRINK great export to South Africa has been the curry. once – it’s all true. The Mother City occupies East. But by the end of the 18th century the
It’s only since the dismantling of apartheid that Durban is the place to go for the spiciest cur- one of the world’s most stunning locations, VOC was almost bankrupt, making Cape Town
anyone has talked of South African cuisine as ries. Curries are also popular in Cape cuisine, with an iconic mountain slap-bang in its cen- an easy target for British imperial interests. Fol-
a unified whole. Earlier, the Africans had their though they’re usually not as spicy. If you’re in tre. As beautiful as the surrounding beaches lowing the British defeat of the Dutch in 1806 at
mealie pap (maize porridge), the Afrikaners Durban and hungry for a quick bite try a filling and vineyards can be, as cosmopolitan and Bloubergstrand, 25km north of Cape Town, the
their boerewors (spicy farmer’s sausages), and bunny chow (curry-to-go: half a loaf of bread, lively as its cultural scene, it’s the rugged wil- colony was ceded to the Crown on 13 August
the Indians and Cape Malays their curries. scooped out and filled with curry). derness of Table Mountain, coated in a unique 1814. The slave trade was abolished in 1808,
Today, along with divisions in other aspects of flora, that is the focus of attention. and all slaves were emancipated in 1833.
life, the culinary barriers are starting to fall. MEALIE PAP Complementing this natural beauty is The discovery and exploitation of diamonds
Awaiting the visiting gastronome is a fu- Mealie pap is the most widely eaten food in Cape Town’s eye-catching way with design and gold in the centre of South Africa in the
sion of influences: hearty meat and vegetable South Africa. It’s thinner or stiffer (depending and colour – in everything from the brightly 1870s and 1880s led to rapid changes. Cape
stews that resulted when the Dutch encoun- on where you eat it), bland and something of painted façades of the Bo-Kaap and the Vic- Town was soon no longer the single dominant
tered the bush; the seemingly endless variety an acquired taste. However, it’s ideal if you torian bathing chalets of Muizenberg, to the metropolis in the country, but as a major port
of maize dishes that have been at the centre of want something filling and economical, and contemporary Afro-chic décor of the many it too was a beneficiary of the mineral wealth
African family life for centuries; a sprinkling can be quite satisfying served with a good excellent guesthouses, restaurants and bars. that laid the foundations for an industrial
of piri-piri (hot pepper) from Mozambique; sauce or stew. The city’s multiethnic population is proof of society. The same wealth led to imperialist
and scents of curry and coriander that have South Africa’s ‘rainbow nation’ and a visual dreams of grandeur on the part of Cecil John
wafted over the Indian Ocean from Asia. BEER record of the city’s tumultuous recorded his- Rhodes (premier of the Cape Colony in 1890),
Perhaps more than anything else, it’s the Beer is the national beverage. There are numer- tory of over 350 years. who had made his millions at the head of De
braai (barbecue) – an Afrikaner institution that ous reasonable brands, including Castle, Black It’s a place of extremes, with the wealth of Beers Consolidated Mines.
has broken across race lines – that defines South Label and Namibia’s all-natural Windhoek. In Camps Bay and Constantia side by side with the An outbreak of bubonic plague in 1901 was
African cuisine. It’s as much a social event as the Cape provinces try Mitchell’s and Birken- poverty of townships such as Khayelitsa. Even blamed on the black African workers (although
a form of cooking, with the essential elements head’s. Lager-style beer comes in cans or dump- in the townships and the deprived coloured it actually came on boats from Argentina) and
boerewors and beer. The Winelands and Cape ies (small bottles) for around US$1.10. Bars areas of the city – home to the vast majority gave the government an excuse to introduce
Town remain the best places to eat well. serve long toms (750ml bottles) from around of Capetonians – there are huge differences in racial segregation: blacks were moved to two
US$1.40. Draught beers are uncommon. lifestyle and many great examples of civic pride locations, one near the docks and the other at
BILTONG & BOEREWORS and optimism to balance against the shocking Ndabeni on the western flank of Table Moun-
Your first introduction to traditional Afri- WATER crime and HIV/AIDS statistics. Discovering the tain. This was the start of what would later
kaner cuisine is likely to be biltong (dried Tap water is generally safe in South Africa’s Mother City’s true diversity and spirit is all part develop into the townships of the Cape Flats.
meat) or boerewors. If you’re having trouble cities. However, in rural areas (or anywhere of getting the most out of a visit here. In 1948 the National Party stood for elec-
getting used to boerewors, it could be that that local conditions indicate that water tion on its policy of apartheid and narrowly
you’re eating braaiwors (barbecue sausages), sources may be contaminated), stick to bot- HISTORY won. In a series of bitter court and constitu-
an inferior grade. Potjiekos (pot food) tradi- tled water and purify stream water. Long before the Dutch East India Company tional battles, the limited rights of blacks and
tionally features stewed meat and vegetables (Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie; VOC) coloureds to vote in the Cape were removed
that has bubbled away for hours in a three- WINE established a base here in 1652, the Cape Town and the insane apparatus of apartheid was
legged pot over hot coals. South African wine debuted in 1659. Since area was settled by the San and Khoekhoen erected. This resulted in whole communities,
then, it’s had time to age to perfection, and nomadic tribes, collectively known as the such as District Six, being uprooted and cast
CAPE CUISINE is both of a high standard and reasonably Khoesaan. The indigenous people shunned out to the bleak Cape Flats.
Often referred to as Cape Malay cuisine, priced. Dry whites are particularly good – try the Dutch, so the VOC was forced to import The government tried for decades to eradi-
Cape cuisine has its roots in the mixing of Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Colombard and slaves from Madagascar, India, Ceylon, Ma- cate squatter towns, such as Crossroads, which
the ‘Malay’ slaves (many of whom were from Chenin Blanc – while popular reds include laya and Indonesia to deal with the colony’s were focal points for black resistance to the
Madagascar and Indonesia) with the Dutch Cabernet Sauvignon, pinotage (a local cross chronic labour shortage. Women were in even apartheid regime. In its last attempt between
settlers. Often stodgy and overly sweet, it’s of Pinot and Cinsaut, which was known as shorter supply, so the Europeans exploited May and June 1986, an estimated 70,000 peo-
nonetheless well worth trying. The central Hermitage), Shiraz and Pinot Noir. the female slaves and the local Khoesaan for ple were driven from their homes and hun-
feature is a mixture of Asian spices and local Wine prices average from around US$8 both labour and sex. In time the slaves also dreds were killed. Even this brutal attack was
produce. Dishes to watch for include bobotie in a restaurant or bottle store. Most restau- intermixed with the Khoesaan. The offspring unsuccessful in eradicating the towns, and the
(traditional Malay dish of delicately flavoured rants stock a few varieties in dinkies (250ml of these unions formed the basis of sections government accepted the inevitable and began
curry with a topping of beaten egg baked to bottles). of today’s coloured population and also helps to upgrade conditions.
 SOUTH AFRICA
0 5 km
CAPE PENINSULA 0 3 miles

r
Ferry to To Bloubergstrand To Melkboshstrand (20km);
A B Robben C (7km) D Skydive Cape Town (20km); E F

Rive
M N
Island (3km) R 5 Langebaan (120km) 1
27 To Paarl (42km);

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Vanguard Rd

Rd
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M

a
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M
Ko rine Dr
N
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See Cape Town & Southern Park
Suburbs Map (pp420-1) 6 Bellville
R Monte
27 Kentemade Vista Parow
Rd
Table rekker
Goodwood R102 Tygerberg Voort
Bay Parow
Sea Point Elsies
Vasco River
Paardeneiland Woltemade
Esplanade N Goodwood
1 Maitland ve Kuilsrivier
Signal Cape Town ood A
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416 C A P E T O W N • • C a p e Pe n i n s u l a

2 Hill Jan Smuts 2

Woodstock Salt River Maitland
(352m) Ndabeni M
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Vredehoek
Observatory
Observatory
Pinelands

Pinelands
Langa
Bonteheuwel Laristown
Modderdam
10 R300
Fwy

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OCEAN Camps Netreg
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M Table Mountain Rondebosch M Heideveld International

A
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3
4 Kirstenbosch

T w
Nyanga ay Strand (24km); R44 (24km);
Dr Lansdowne Nyanga Gordon's Bay (30km);
Wreck of Bishopscourt Wynberg Crossroads
Ryecroft Gate n e Rd

W
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es
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Entrance to M Cape Hangklip (50km);
Kirstenbosch Rh 5 Port Elizabeth (750km)

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Llandudno M M
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Rd
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Tokai Diep River

Peak
Zeekoevlei R310

Steenberg
lonelyplanet.com

ὈὈ
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's Retreat Strandfontein
1 Steenberg Sewage Works

pm
Lakeside Strandfontein
Zandvlei

Cha
M Rd
well
Noordhoek 64 n Po
Valsbaai Bade
R310

5 Muizenberg 5
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ὈὈὈ
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Rd

Masiphumelele
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Long Kalk Bay
Clovelly
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Clovelly Seal
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Lighthouse Ko Fish Hoek
65 6
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6 6
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INFORMATION
M US Consulate.....................................1 C5
65
ill

Simon's
Scarborough Town SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Red H

M Duiker Island Cruises..........................2 B4

66
ὈὈὈ Simon's
Town Groot Constantia...............................3 C4
Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens..........4 C3

Boulders ENTERTAINMENT
Club Galaxy.......................................5 D3
West End.........................................(see 5)
7 M 7
M 4 SHOPPING
65
Canal Walk........................................6 D2
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
ὈὈὈ ATLANTIC
OCEAN
TRANSPORT
Cape Town International Airport.........7 E3

Entrance Smitswinkel
to Park Bay

Cape of Good Hope

Nature Reserve
8
ὈὈὈ
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Buffels
Bay
C A P E T O W N • • C a p e Pe n i n s u l a 417

SOUTH AFRICA
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SOUTH AFRICA 418 C A P E T O W N • • C l i m a t e lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com C A P E T O W N • • D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s 419

SOUTH AFRICA
Hours after being released from prison on running down to Muizenberg at False Bay, are Money sula and the ‘informal redistribution of wealth’
11 February 1990, Nelson Mandela made his leafy and increasingly rich suburbs including Money can be changed at the airport, most is reasonably common. The townships on the
first public speech in decades from the bal- Observatory, Newlands and Constantia. commercial banks and at Cape Town Tour- Cape Flats have an appalling crime rate and
cony of Cape Town’s City Hall, heralding the On the Atlantic Coast, exclusive Clifton and ism (below). Rennies Travel (below), the local unless you have a trustworthy guide or are on
beginning of a new era for South Africa. Much Camps Bay are accessible by coastal road from agent for Thomas Cook, has foreign-exchange a tour they are not places for a casual stroll.
has improved in Cape Town since – property Sea Point or via Kloof Nek, the pass between offices. Stick to the roads when you walk around
prices keep booming and the city centre is a Table Mountain and Lion’s Head. Camps Bay There are ATMs all over town. the city, and always listen to local advice.
safer and more pleasant place to shop, work is a 10-minute drive from the city centre and American Express City Bowl (%021-425 7991; Thibault There is safety in numbers.
and live, with the development of ritzy loft- can easily be reached by public transport, but Sq); Waterfront (Map pp424-5; %021-419 3917; V&A Swimming at any of the Cape beaches is
style apartments in grand old structures such as you go further south, the communities of Hotel Mall, Waterfront) potentially hazardous, especially for those
as Mutual Heights. Llandudno, Hout Bay and Noordhoek are bet- inexperienced in surf. Check for warning
Full integration of Cape Town’s mixed pop- ter explored with your own car or bike. Post signs about rips and rocks and only swim in
ulation, however, remains a long way off, if it’s General post office (Map pp428-9; %021-464 1700; patrolled areas.
achievable at all. The vast majority of Capeto- INFORMATION Parliament St, City Bowl; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to
nians who live in the Cape Flats remain split Bookshops noon Sat) Has a poste restante counter. SIGHTS
along race lines and suffer horrendous eco- The main mass-market bookshop and newsa- Table Mountain National Park
nomic, social and health problems, not least gent is CNA, with numerous branches around Tourist Information Covering some three quarters of the penin-
of which are the HIV/AIDs pandemic and the city. Cape Town Tourism (www.tourismcapetown.co.za) sula Table Mountain National Park (www.tmnp.co.za)
high levels of drug-related crime. At the most Clarke’s Bookshop (Map pp428-9; %021-423 5739; City Centre (Map pp428-9; %021-487 6800; cnr Castle stretches from flat-topped Table Mountain
recent local elections in March 2006, among www.clarkesbooks.co.za; 211 Long St, City Bowl) Stocks an & Burg Sts, City Bowl; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am- (Hoerikwaggo, its indigenous Khoesaan name
the issues that helped the Democratic Alliance unsurpassed range on South Africa and the continent. 2pm Sat, 9am-1pm Sun Oct-Mar, 8am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, means ‘mountain in the sea’) to Cape Point.
receive a higher percentage of the vote than Exclusive Books Waterfront (Map pp424-5;%021-419 8.30am-1pm Sat, 9am-1pm Sun Apr-Sep); Waterfront For the vast majority of visitors the main at-
the ruling African National Congress (ANC) 0905; Victoria Wharf ); Cavendish Sq Mall (Map pp420-1; (Map pp424-5; %021-405 4500; Clock Tower Centre; traction is the 1086m-high mountain itself,
were local government corruption, the rolling Claremont); Lifestyles on Kloof (Map p431; Kloof St) Has an h9am-9pm) At this impressive and well-run centre, the top of which can easily be accessed by the
power outages in the city and lack of funds for excellent range, including some books in French. you’ll find advisers who can book accommodation, Cableway (%021-424 5148; www.tablemountain.net;
the overstretched fire brigade. tours and rental cars. At the City Centre branch you adult one way/return US$8/16, child US$4/6; h8.30am-7pm
Emergency can also get advice on Cape Nature Conservation Parks Feb-Nov, to 10pm Dec & Jan), which runs every 10/20
CLIMATE In an emergency call %107, or %112 if using a (%021-426 0723) and the National Parks & Reserves minutes in high/low season.
Great extremes of temperature are unknown mobile phone. Other useful phone numbers: (%021-423 8005). There’s also an internet café and a The views from the revolving cable car
in Cape Town, although it can be relatively Ambulance (%10177) foreign-exchange booth. and on the summit are phenomenal. Once
cold and wet for a few months in winter (be- Fire brigade (%021-535 1100) you’re at the top there are souvenir shops, a
tween June and August) when temperatures Mountain Rescue Services (%021-948 9900) Travel Agencies café and some easy walks to follow. The Ca-
range from 7°C to 18°C. Spring weather from Police (%10111) Africa Travel Centre (Map p432; %021-423 5555; bleway doesn’t operate when it’s dangerously
September to November is unpredictable. De- www.backpackers.co.za; Backpack, 74 New Church St, Tam- windy, and there’s little point going up if you
cember to March is hot, although the average Internet Access boerskloof ) Books all sorts of tours and activities, including are simply going to be wrapped in the cloud
maximum temperature is only 26°C with the Cape Town is one of the most wired cities in day trips, hire cars and extended truck tours of Africa. known as the ‘tablecloth’. The best visibility
strong southeasterly wind (known as the Cape Africa. Most hotels and hostels have internet Atlantic Tourist Information Centre (Map pp420-1; and conditions are likely to be first thing in
Doctor) generally keeping things bearable. facilities and you’ll seldom have to hunt far %021-434 2382; www.arokan.co.za; 242 Main Rd, Three the morning or in the evening. For details of
From March to April, and to a lesser extent in for an internet café. Rates are pretty uniform Anchor Bay) Gay-run tour company and travel agent. climbing the mountain see p427.
May, the weather remains good and the wind at US$1.40 per hour. Rennies Travel (www.renniestravel.co.za) City Bowl If you don’t have your own transport, Rik-
is at its most gentle. Catwalk TV (Map pp428-9; %021-423 8999; www (Map pp428-9; %021-423 7154; 101 St George’s Mall); kis (small, open vans; see p437) will drop you
.catwalk.co.za; 16 Burg St, City Bowl; h24hr) Central Sea Point (Map pp420-1; %021-439 7529; 182 Main at the cable car from the city centre for US$2;
ORIENTATION and handy. Rd); Waterfront (Map pp424-5; %021-418 3744; Victoria a nonshared taxi will cost around US$7.
Cape Town’s commercial centre – known Wharf ) Handles international and domestic bookings and
as the City Bowl – lies to the north of Table Medical Services is the agent for Thomas Cook travellers cheques. It can Robben Island & Nelson Mandela
Mountain and east of Signal Hill. The inner- Christian Barnard Memorial Hospital (Map pp428-9; arrange visas for neighbouring countries. Gateway
city suburbs of Gardens, Oranjezicht and Tam- %021-480 6111; www.netcare.co.za; 181 Longmarket Prisoners were incarcerated on Robben Is-
boerskloof are all within walking distance of it. St, City Bowl) The best private hospital; reception is on the DANGERS & ANNOYANCES land (%413 4220; www.robben-island.org.za; adult/child
Nearby Signal Hill, Green Point and Sea Point 8th floor. Cape Town remains one of the most relaxed US$20/10; hhourly ferries 9am-3pm, sunset tour 5pm Dec
are other densely populated seaside suburbs. Groote Schuur Hospital (Map pp420-1; %021-404 cities in Africa, which can instil a false sense of & Jan) from the early days of the VOC right up
The city sprawls quite a distance to the 9111; capegateway.gov.za/gsh; Main Rd, Observatory) security. Thefts are most likely to happen when until 1996. Now a museum and UN World
northeast (this is where you’ll find the beachside SAA-Netcare Travel Clinic (Map pp428-9; %021- visitors do something stupid like leaving their Heritage Site, it is one of the most popular
district of Bloubergstrand and the enormous 419 3172; 11th fl, Picbal Arcade, 58 Strand St, City Bowl; gear on a beach while they go swimming. destinations in all of Cape Town.
Canal Walk Shopping Centre). To the south, h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) For vaccinations and Paranoia is not required, but common sense While we heartily recommend going to
skirting the eastern flank of the mountains and travel health. is. There is tremendous poverty on the penin- Robben Island, a visit here is not without
 ὈὈὈ
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SOUTH AFRICA 420 C A P E T O W N • • C a p e T o w n & S o u t h e r n S u b u r b s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com C A P E T O W N • • C a p e T o w n & S o u t h e r n S u b u r b s 421

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Point ac
INFORMATION h
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Atlantic Tourist Information Centre....1 C1 Green
Waterfront

Beach
Exclusive Books..................................2 G6 Point
1 ATLANTIC 1
Groote Schuur Hospital...................... 3 G4

Dr
Rennies Travel....................................4 C1 OCEAN Rocklands
M d

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6 wo

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Western Blvd

ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
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M
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES M Three Po d Table
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Pro Divers...........................................5 C1 6 Anchor
Rhodes Memorial...............................6 G5 Rd 5 4 Bay High Leve Waterkant Bay

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ὈὈὈὈὈ
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its drawbacks. Most likely you will have to CASTLE OF GOOD HOPE fired from the lower slopes of Signal Hill. Tra- adult/child US$4.70/0.30; h10am-5pm Sun-Thu, to 2pm Fri)
endure crowds and being hustled around on Many are surprised to find a castle (Map pp428- ditionally this allowed the burghers in the town is one of the most imaginatively designed and
a guided tour that at a maximum of two hours 9; %021-787 1249; www.castleofgoodhope.co.za; entrance below to check their watches. It’s a stiff walk up interesting of the city’s museums. Entry is
on the island (plus a 30-minute boat ride in on Buitenkant St; Mon-Sat adult/child US$2.70/1.30, Sun here through the Bo-Kaap – take Longmarket through the beautifully restored Old Syna-
both directions) is woefully short. You will US$1.40/0.70; h9am-4pm, tours 11am, noon & 2pm Mon- St and keep going until it ends. gogue (1862).
learn much of what happened to Mandela Sat) in Cape Town. Built between 1666 and 1679 In the same complex you’ll also find the
and others like him, since one of the former to defend the city, this stone-walled pentagonal SLAVE LODGE Cape Town Holocaust Centre (Map p432; %021-462
inmates will lead you around the prison. structure is commonly touted as the city’s old- One of the oldest buildings in South Africa, 5553; www.museums.org.za/ctholocaust; admission free;
The standard tours, which have set depar- est building. A tour is worthwhile, but you can dating from 1660, Slave Lodge (Map pp428-9; %021- h10am-5pm Sun-Thu, to 1pm Fri). Although small,
ture and return times when you buy your quite easily find your own way around. A key 460 8240; www.museums.org.za/slavelodge; 49 Adderley St; the centre packs a lot in with a considerable
ticket, include a walk through the old prison, ceremony at the castle gate – when the keys to adult/child US$1.40/0.70; h10am-4.30pm Mon-Sat) has emotional punch.
as well as a 45-minute bus ride around the the gate are handed over in an orchestrated cer- a fascinating history. Until 1811 the building
island with commentary on the various places emony – is held at 10am Monday to Friday. was home, if you could call it that, to as many Green Point & Waterfront
of note. If you’re lucky, you’ll have about 10 as 1000 slaves, who lived in damp, insanitary, Cape Town’s prime Atlantic Coast suburbs
minutes to wander around on your own. We COMPANY’S GARDENS crowded conditions. Up to 20% died each year. start at the Waterfront, from where you depart
recommend heading straight to the prison’s These shady green gardens (Map p432; h7am-7pm) The slaves were bought and sold just around for Robben Island (p419). Near here you’ll also
A-section to view the remarkable and very in the heart of the city are a lovely place to the corner on Spin St. find Green Point, which has lately seen devel-
moving exhibition ‘Cell Stories’. In each of 40 relax during the heat of the day. The surviving The museum today is increasingly devoted opment of a shopping and dining complex.
isolation cells is an artefact and story from a six hectares of what started as the vegetable to the history and experience of slaves and
former political prisoner. patch for the Dutch East India Company are their descendants in the Cape, although the VICTORIA & ALBERT WATERFRONT
Tours depart from the Nelson Mandela found around Government Ave. displays on the 2nd floor, including artefacts Commonly referred to as just the Waterfront
Gateway (Map pp424-5; admission free; h9am-8.30pm) from ancient Egypt, Greece and Rome, hark (www.waterfront.co.za), this tourist-oriented pre-
beside the Clock Tower at the Waterfront. HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT back to the building’s former use as the Cul- cinct offers masses of shops, restaurants,
Even if you don’t plan a visit to the island, Although it sounds unlikely, visiting South tural History Museum. bars, cinemas and other attractions, including
it’s worth dropping by the museum here, with Africa’s parliament (Map pp428-9; %021-403 2266; cruises of the harbour (see p426). Its success
its focus on the struggle for freedom. Book at www.parliament.gov.za; Parliament St; admission free; htours BO-KAAP MUSEUM is partly down to the fact that it remains a
the Nelson Mandela Gateway departure point by appointment Mon-Fri) can be fascinating, especially Giving some insight into the history and life- working harbour still used by tugs, harbour
or at Cape Town Tourism (see p419) in the if you’re interested in the country’s modern his- style of the people of the Bo-Kaap is this small vessels of various kinds and fishing boats;
city. At holiday times all tours can be booked tory. Opened in 1885, the hallowed halls have but engaging museum (Map pp428-9; %021-481 there are always seals splashing around or
up for days. seen some pretty momentous events, including 3939; www.museums.org.za/bokaap/index.html; 71 Wale lazing near the docks.
when president Hendrik Verwoerd, architect of St, Bo-Kaap; adult/child US$0.70/0.30; h9.30am-4.30pm Recent developments at the Waterfront
City Bowl apartheid, was stabbed to death in 1966. You Mon-Sat). It’s worth a stroll around the area include the millionaires’ playground of the V
The commercial heart of Cape Town, City must present your passport to gain entry. (during the day) to admire the traditional & A Marina with some 600 apartments and 200
Bowl is squeezed between Table Mountain, architecture. boat moorings, and the construction of Nobel
Signal Hill and the harbour. Immediately to LONG STREET Square (Map pp424-5; Dock Rd). Check out the larger-
the west is the Bo-Kaap and the Waterkant, Whether you come to browse the antique Gardens & Around than-life statues of South Africa’s four Nobel
and to the east Zonnebloem (once known as shops, secondhand bookstores and the Rising up Table Mountain’s slopes are the Prize winners: Nkosi Albert Luthuli, Arch-
District Six). streetwear boutiques, or to party at the host of ritzy suburbs of Gardens, Tamboerskloof, bishop Desmond Tutu, and former presidents
bars and clubs that crank up at night, a stroll Oranjezicht and Vredehoek. Most of the FW De Klerk and Nelson Mandela.
DISTRICT SIX MUSEUM along Long St (Map pp428–9) is an essen- major sights here are clustered around the
If you see only one museum in Cape Town tial element of a Cape Town visit. The most Company’s Gardens (opposite). Atlantic Coast
make it the District Six Museum (Map pp428-9; attractive section, lined with Victorian-era Cape Town’s Atlantic Coast is all about spec-
%021-466 7200; www.districtsix.co.za; 25A Buitenkant St; buildings with lovely wrought-iron balconies, SA NATIONAL GALLERY tacular scenery and soft-sand beaches. Strong
adult/child US$2/1.30; h9am-3pm Mon, to 4pm Tue-Sat). runs from the junction with Buitensingle St South Africa’s premier gallery (Map p432; %021- winds can be a downer and although it’s possi-
Note that almost all township tours stop here north to around the Strand. 467 4660; www.museums.org.za/sang; Government Ave, Gar- ble to shelter from the summer southeasterlies
first to explain the history of the pass laws. This dens; adult/child US$1.40/0.70, Sat by donation; h10am-5pm at some beaches, the water at them all, flowing
emotionally moving museum is as much for SIGNAL HILL & NOON GUN Tue-Sun) is a must for art lovers. The permanent straight from the Antarctic, is freezing. From
the people of the now-vanished District Six as Once also known as Lion’s Rump, as it’s at- collection harks back to Dutch times and in- Sea Point (best visited for its excellent outdoor
it is about them. Displays include a floor map tached to Lion’s Head by a ‘spine’ of hills, cludes some extraordinary pieces, but it’s often swimming pavilion), you can head down to
of District Six on which former residents have Signal Hill (Map pp428–9) separates Sea Point contemporary works that stand out the most. Clifton and Camps Bay.
labelled where their demolished homes and from the City Bowl. There are magnificent
features of their neighbourhood once stood. views from the 350m-high summit, especially SOUTH AFRICAN JEWISH MUSEUM & CAPE CLIFTON BEACHES
You can also arrange a walking tour (%021- at night. TOWN HOLOCAUST CENTRE Giant granite boulders split the four linked
466 7208; per person US$7, 10 people minimum) of the old At noon Monday to Saturday, a cannon The South African Jewish Museum (Map p432; %021- beaches at Clifton (Map pp420–1), acces-
District Six. known as the Noon Gun (Map pp428–9) is 465 1546; www.sajewishmuseum.co.za; 88 Hatfield St, Gardens; sible by steps from Victoria Rd. Almost
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Clyde Rd

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ὈὈὈὈὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈ
ὈὈ d
INFORMATION EATING St N

Lo

ant
ed
American Express..............................1 F3 Andiamo........................................15 E5 Alfr 2

ad
er

St
Cape Town Tourism.......................(see 2) Café Neo........................................16 A1

St
St M
Clock Tower Centre.........................2 G3 Gionvanni's Deli World..................17 C3 ier 5
Nap

Som
5 6 Ta
Exclusive Books.................................3 F2 Melissa's........................................18 D3 N bl
St 2 e

erse
Rennies Travel................................(see 3) One.Waterfront..............................19 F3 d Ba
lfre Waterkant

St
A Ta y
T welve Apostles Bl

g
t Rd
Wakame......................................... 20 B1 Co

on
en bl vd
e

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SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Willoughby & Co............................21 F1 Viewpoint 10 St Ba

we
St y
Clock Tower.................................... 4 G3 on pin i St ey Bl

Lo
Dix 15 tle
Nelson Mandela Gateway................5 G3 DRINKING Cape Quarter C hiap r vd
11 Av

ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈ
Nobel Square....................................6 F3 Alba Lounge...................................22 F2 Shopping e
Schotsche Centre
on St
Table Bay Diving............................(see 7) Belthazar.........................................23 F2
s
Lon

Kloof
St
Hu Vo

Waterfront Boat Company...............7 F2 Buena Vista Social Café..................24 D3 M

ec

St
gm

ds

Signal Nose Wine Bar.............................(see 15) ha

ng
Hans
u
ark

Hill

Lo
SLEEPING St
et

(350m) St
Big Blue........................................... 8 D4 ENTERTAINMENT
Rd

St
rij
St
Military Rd

ht
do Salazar
Cape Standard.................................9 B4 Computicket..................................(see 3)

ee

ac
Pier
t

m Sq
na S
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Br

gr
De Waterkant House......................10 E5 Green Dolphin................................25 F2 Av Pl 6

en
er
6 Thibault
St e

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Tulbagh
Voetb

Asta

De Waterkant Place........................11 E5 Manenberg's Jazz Café..................(see 2) ra M Sq

Lo

He
nd 62 Sq
House on the Hill...........................12 C4

St
St

p
Village Lodge.................................13 E5 SHOPPING

St
o
Lo
Ri n
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Wilton Manor.................................14 B3 Green Point Market.......................26 D3 ee ala
ck M
F
St D
SOUTH AFRICA 426 C A P E T O W N • • A c t i v i t i e s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com C A P E T O W N • • A c t i v i t i e s 427

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always sheltered from the wind, these are 5128; www.grootconstantia.co.za; Groot Constantia Rd, High Cycling Hoerikwaggo Trails (www.hoerikwaggotrails.co.za) de-
Cape Town’s top sunbathing spots. Local lore Constantia; tastings incl glass US$3.40; h9am-6pm Dec- Thrill-meisters Downhill Adventures (%021-422 signed to allow visitors, for the first time, to
has it that No 1 and No 2 beaches are for Apr, to 5pm May-Nov) is set in beautiful grounds. 0388; www.downhilladventures.com; cnr Orange & Kloof Sts, sleep on the mountain, and eventually to hike
models and confirmed narcissists, No 3 is the Not surprisingly, it can become busy with Gardens) offers a variety of cycling trips and 80km or so from the City Bowl to Cape Point.
gay beach and No 4 is for families. tour groups but the estate is big enough for adventures. Try a mountain-bike ride down The three-day Table Mountain Trail is a
you to escape the crowds, if need be. In the from the lower cable car station on Table fully guided hike starting at the Waterfront
CAMPS BAY BEACH 18th century, Constantia wines were exported Mountain (US$47). and proceeding through the City Bowl to the
With the spectacular Twelve Apostles of Table around the world and were highly acclaimed. lower northern slopes of the mountain to the
Mountain as a backdrop, and soft white sand, The beautifully restored homestead is now a Diving summit before descending down the eastern
Camps Bay (Map pp420–1) is one of the city’s museum (%021-795 5140; www.museums.org.za/groot- Cape Town offers a number of excellent shore slopes to Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens
most popular beaches. It’s within 15 minutes’ con; adult/child US$1/0.30; h10am-5pm). and boat dives, although it’s the shark-cage (opposite). The trail costs US$250 per person
drive of the city centre so can get crowded, diving in Gansbaii, some 150km southeast of (based on double occupancy of a room), which
particularly on weekends. The beach is often RHODES MEMORIAL city, that is the big draw. includes all meals, portering of luggage and
windy, and the water is decidedly on the cool Modelled after the arch at London’s Hyde Park A couple of good local dive operators: accommodation of a very high standard.
side. Corner, this impressive granite memorial (Map Pro Divers (Map pp420-1; %021-433 0472; www By the start of 2007 the less-pampered Tip to
pp420–1) to the mining magnate and former .prodiverssa.co.za; 88B Main Rd, Sea Point) Top Trail should be running. This six-day, five-
LLANDUDNO & SANDY BAY BEACHES prime minister is on the eastern slopes of Table Table Bay Diving (Map pp424-5; %021-419 8822; night hike beginning at Cape Point will involve
Surfing at Llandudno (Map pp416–17) on the Mountain. There are sweeping views from the www.tablebaydiving.com; Shop 7, Quay 5, Waterfront) carrying your own food, gear and sleeping bag,
beach breaks (mostly rights) is best at high tide memorial to the Cape Flats and the mountain and camping at fixed spots in the national park.
with a small swell and a southeasterly wind. ranges beyond. Behind the memorial there’s a Hiking & Rock Climbing By the end of 2007 a luxury version, running in
Nearby is Sandy Bay (Map pp416–17), Cape pleasant tearoom. The exit for the memorial is The mountainous spine of the Cape Peninsula the opposite direction (Top to Tip), and sleep-
Town’s nudist beach and gay stamping ground. at the Princess Anne Interchange on the M3. is a hiker’s and rock climber’s paradise, but ing in comfortable huts, should be available.
It’s a particularly beautiful stretch of sand and it’s not without its dangers, chief of which is
there’s no pressure to take your clothes off if ACTIVITIES the capricious weather conditions. LION’S HEAD
you don’t want to. Like many such beaches, Abseiling & Kloofing Kabbo African Adventures (%021-701 0867, 072 024 The 2.2km hike from Kloof Nek to the peak of
Sandy Bay has no direct access roads. Abseil Africa (Map pp428-9; % 021-424 4760; www 6537; www.kabbadventures.com) Runs its own version of the Lion’s Head (Map pp420–1) is one of the best
.abseilafrica.co.za; 1 Vredenburg Ln, City Bowl; US$40) is the Hoerikwaggo Trails. An overnight trip to the mountain costs you can do in Cape Town and is highly rec-
Southern Suburbs one to see if you want to shimmy 112m down US$98, while a summit hike or sunrise/sunset walk is US$43. ommended on a full-moon night, when many
Heading west around Table Mountain and a rope off the top of Table Mountain. Venture Forth (%021-556 4150; www.ventureforth people gather at the summit to watch the sun
Devil’s Peak will bring you to the Southern Abseil Africa also offer kloofing (canyon- .co.za) Enthusiastic guides will tailor a hike or climb to your go down. Always bring a torch (flashlight).
Suburbs, beginning with the bohemian, edgy ing) trips around Cape Town. The sport of requirements. The fee of US$55 includes all refreshments
areas of Woodstock and Observatory and mov- clambering into and out of kloofs (cliffs or and city centre transfers. THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE
ing through to Rondebosch, Newlands and gorges) also entails abseiling, climbing, hik- You’ll need to book to walk the two-day/one-
wealthy Constantia, home to South Africa’s ing, swimming and jumping. CLIMBING TABLE MOUNTAIN night Cape of Good Hope Trail, which traces
oldest vineyards and wine estates. Another reliable operator is Day Trippers More than 300 routes up and down the moun- a spectacular 33.8km circular route through
(see p430). tain have been identified, perhaps indicating the reserve. The cost is US$12 (not including
KIRSTENBOSCH BOTANICAL GARDENS how easy it is to get lost. Bear in mind that the the Cape Point entry fee) with accommoda-
Location and unique flora combine to make Cruises mountain is over 1000m high and conditions tion at the basic Protea and Restio huts at
Cape Town’s botanical gardens (Map pp416-17; DUIKER ISLAND CRUISES can become treacherous quickly. Unprepared the southern end of the reserve. Contact the
%021-799 8783, Sat & Sun 021-761 4916; www.sanbi.org; From Hout Bay’s harbour you can catch regu- and foolhardy hikers die here ever year. reserve’s Buffelfontein Visitors Centre (%021-780
Rhodes Dr, Newlands; adult/child US$3.40/0.70; h8am-7pm lar daily cruises to Duiker Island, also known None of the routes is easy but the Platteklip 9204) for further details.
Sep-Mar, to 6pm Apr-Aug) among the most beauti- as Seal Island because of its colony of Cape fur Gorge walk on the City Bowl side is straightfor-
ful in the world. The 36-hectare landscaped seals. Three companies run these cruises daily, ward. It takes about 2½ hours from the upper Surfing & Sandboarding
section seems to merge almost imperceptibly usually with guaranteed sailings in the morn- cableway station to the lower, taking it fairly The Cape Peninsula has plenty of fantastic surf-
with the 492 hectares of fynbos (fine bush) ings. The cheapest is Circe Launches (%021-790 easy. Be warned that the route is exposed to the ing possibilities, from gentle shore breaks ideal
vegetation cloaking the mountain slopes. 1040; www.circelaunches; adult/child US$4.70/1.30). sun and, for much of the way, a vertical slog. for beginners to 3m-plus monsters for experts
The gardens are at their best between mid- Another option, far trickier and recom- only. In general, the best surf is along the Atlan-
August and mid-October. HARBOUR CRUISES mended for experienced climbers only, is the tic side. Water temperatures as low as 8°C mean
You can hire a rikki (p437) to get you here If only to take in the panoramic view of Table Indian Windows route that starts from directly a steamer wet suit and booties are required.
or hop on the City Sightseeing Cape Town Mountain from the water, a cruise into Table behind the lower cableway station and heads Kommetjie, pronounced Kommi-kee, is the
bus (see p430). Bay should not be missed. Waterfront Boat straight up. The hikers you see from the cable Cape’s surf mecca, offering an assortment of
Company (Map pp424-5; %021-418 5806; www.waterfront car, perched like mountain goats on appar- reefs that hold a very big swell.
GROOT CONSTANTIA boats.co.za; Shop 7, Quay 5, Waterfront) offers a variety ently sheer cliffs, are taking this route. And if you don’t want to get wet there’s
A superb example of Cape Dutch architec- of cruises, including the highly recommended In 2005 Table Mountain National Park always sandboarding, which is like snowboard-
ture, Groot Constantia (Map pp416-17; %021-794 1½-hour sunset cruises (US$24). launched the first of its planned suite of three ing except on sand dunes. Downhill Adventures
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arl S St tw rij

n
C

t
W

ch

ala
Tana Baru ich do

La
at

ra

FM
Cemetery er m

lie

ng
ka St

Le
St
Lo Av

D
re
nt Tulbagh

St
ng e

e
Thibault

ni
Rd

He
m St Sq

pi

op
ar 7 Sq

iap

Lo
ke Ri

St
47

Ch
t eb
Voetboog

St

ee
Ho ee
ck

Br
ut 37

St
Ch Be La St

se
ur rg 44

Ro
ch St

St
St

rg
St
3 3

Bu
Dve

ng
Yu suf 1

r
H

we
Lo
41 Ca er

Lo
stl tz
Heritage Sq 31 e Merriman og

ts
53 St

St mu
Pentz Rd 23 Ho 54 Sq Bl
vd

S
Bo-Kaap

all
S ut

n
Van Riebeeck hort

Ja
M
La 13

St
Sq ma

ὈὈὈ
's
rke

op

ge
15 t 11

Lo

or
St 3

Ge
INFORMATION Birds Café............................32 D4 W
ale St Stephen's

St
Botswana Consulate...............1 F3 Café African Image..............33 E4 St Church Lo
ng O
British Consulate..................(see 1) Cara Lazuli...........................34 C5 m ld
ar M
ar
Canadian Consulate...............2 E4 Crush...................................35 E4 5 ket Cape Town

St
in
St

4 e
St

rg
St Train Station
ee

Cape Town Tourism...............3 E3 Frieda's.................................36 E2

St
58 Dv

Bu
Br
ht

2 12 e

ng
32
c

Catwalk TV............................4 E4 Ginja................................... 37 D3

e
ra

Av
Lo
ng

Christian Barnard Memorial Lola's...................................38 C5 St

ite

vic
ra

St
4 Do 52 nd 4
Bu

Ci
Hospital.............................5 D4 Madame Zingara...............(see 34)

y
rp Greenmarket Trafalgar

le
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ
St 57

er
Clarke's Bookshop................. 6 D5 Royale Eatery.......................39 C5 St Sq Pl

d
St

33 35

Ad
Dutch Consulate.....................7 E3 Royale Eatery.......................40 C5
Le
n

St

eu
Lio

French Consulate...................8 C6 Savoy Cabbage................... 41 D3 51 45 Ca

nt

stl
en
ya

General Post Office................9 F4 25 e

St
Br

W Ch
St

St

St
al City Bowl 55
an

German Consulate...............10 C6 DRINKING Pe e ur

rg
St

ch
rd

pp St

Bu
Jo

Mozambican Consulate........11 E3 Gallery Bar.........................(see 29) er

ice

St 9
St
rv

Rennies Travel......................12 E4 Marvel.................................42 C6

Se

Bl

SAA-Netcare Travel Clinic....13 F3 Orchard Bank...................... 43 D5

oe

Old Mutual
m

49 Building
St

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES ENTERTAINMENT St George's

St

St

ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ
29 Cathedral Grand
op
St

ng

St
Abseil Africa........................ 14 C5 Artscape..............................
M 44 H3 Pde

Bu
22
Lo

Lo

46

rea
n

n
Bo-Kaap Museum................15 C3 62 45 E4
City Hall............................... Bu
Lio

ei
u
ite

Pl
W 27 21 Church

St
Castle of Good Hope........... 16 G5h Mama Africa....................... 46 D5 28 n 50 National Library R102
St Sq
5 i
F6 tfor Marco's African Place..........47 D3 6 5
St

of South Africa

St
District Six Museum.............17 Sp
in
m

n
34
St

St

tio
ro

Houses of Parliament...........18 E5 Marimba.............................

St 48 G2 43
Ca

M
e

ia

a
38
Ke

or
os
ris

18
or

Noon Gun............................19 B1 Snap.................................... 49 D5

bro

rp
te
ct

Bu rt

Co
Vi
ok

Signal Hill............................20C2 Zula Sound Bar....................

ite 50 C5 St
26
en

E5 Rd
St

St
Slave Lodge..........................21 ns 40 Da 16
in
ue

e
en

gl

ad
rli
Q

SHOPPING e 39 Company's
am

24 ng

r
Pa
St Gardens
rli

SLEEPING African Image......................51 E4 Vr St

ὈὈὈὈ
14 30
Pa

ed
La

Cape Diamond Hotel............22 E5 Greenmarket Square............52 E4 42 en Al

be
rg

Ca u Lo

St
b
Rd

ris
Cape Heritage Hotel............23 D3 Monkeybiz.......................... 53 D3 56 rtu ng
St

t
br s m

an
n

oo ar
so

Daddy Long Legs Ba St

n

nk
k
ei

ke
ie

rra

ite
TRANSPORTSt
Pl
m

Apartments..................... 24 C5 ck t M Sir Lowry Rd

e
Ja

Bu
St
Av

Daddy Long Legs Hotel.......25 D4 Bus Terminus.......................54 G3 St 4

De 10
t
en

Inn Long Street....................26 C5 Golden Acre Terminal..........55 F4 an M

m

os
rn

St
Bo

Long St Backpackers............27 D5 Greyhound........................(see 54) Co te

St

ve

6 6
uq

8 Ro m 17 rt
Go

St
St Paul's B&B Guest House..28 C5 Homeland Shuttle & Tours...56 C6
rch

ue

el m St
M an er
t

se
Urban Chic..........................29 D5 ParIntercape Grey's
u

Mainliner............(see 54) us d cia

St

ro
Ch

k P ass eu

im
St l
t

SALaRoadlink.......................(see 54) m
St

St
e S
w

St

Pr
St
Ne

of

EATING Shared Taxi Main Rank....... 57 G4 ry

ang

rbu

Ca
o

SA National
La
Kl

nte

le
95 Keerom.......................... 30 D5 Taxi Rank.............................58 F4 South African Museum Gallery M f
Or

Ca

do
St

& Planetarium 59 er

n
pe

Africa Café.......................... 31 D3 Translux............................(see 54) W M

St
Ho

60
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