APPAREL PRODUCTION
• A Mood Board is a summary of a collection’s
inspiration and theme.
• It’s a design tool that will help designers remain
focused and consistent as their line develops.
• It’s also a great communication aid when
explaining your vision to others (retailers, media
etc.).
• Magazine tears, fabric swatches, old photos,
buttons, ribbons; basically any visual reference
you desire are mounted onto a hard board.
• Story board should have a title, to emphasize
the inspirations compiled.
Research: get inspiration from galleries, exhibition,
entertainment program, fashion geography shows,
street fashion, design magazine (fashion,
architecture, interior), retail market.
Take objects or scenes that relate to the theme
Write thematic key words and modify to create
something new.
Use cut out of relevant images from magazine, print
outs and 3D elements.
Select close related elements to have a strongly
themed presentation, e.g. Summer breeze, light
fabric, coconut shell, parasol, shade of blues
Use large size board to layout images, color
and fabric swatch and other inspiration
materials.
Analyze to ensure your inspirations material
match your title and theme
Present mood board to others that are not
involve and evaluate their comments.
An overview of a collection with all of the
design and financial parameters set out.
The plan outlines the specifics of a
collection; from how many styles you will
have, to what fabrics and color ways will be
used.
It is used before large scale production
started.
Most importantly, it gives potential buyers a
clear understanding of your vision.
Total number of garments
Illustrations or flat drawings of every garment
Proportion of different garments types
(Tops/bottoms/dresses)
Specific garment styles
Different fabrics and colourways for each
garment
Cost price per garment
Selling price per garment
Order quantities per style
Sizes
Manufacturer details
Pattern Design Sample Making Production Pattern
Spreading Marker Making Grading
Cutting Sorting/Bundling Sewing/Assembling
Final Inspection Pressing/Finishing Inspection
Packing Shipping
• Create a pattern for a garment or an apparel
product with design details consideration.
Flat Pattern- A pattern is created by using an
existing foundation pattern known as a sloper or a
block.
Sloper (Home Sewing Industry term) or Block
(Apparel Manufacturing Industry term) - custom
fitted basic pattern based on individual or
companies standard size measurements from
which other patterns can be made.
Drafting a Pattern- Patterns are created by
using measurements of an existing garment,
an individual, or body form. Pattern is then
drawn on paper utilizing the body
measurements.
Reverse Engineering a Pattern- Patterns
are created by deconstructing an existing
garment. It is taken apart, analyzed, and new
pattern pieces are created.
Draping- A garment is created
by molding, cutting, and
pinning fabric on an individual
or a dress form. It is the oldest
method of pattern making.
Computer Generated
Patterns- Computer-aided
design (CAD) software is used
to produce patterns for textiles,
apparel and other products.
• Select the materials
(fabrication and trims)
• Construct the sample
(prototype)
• Fit, revise and finalize the
sample.
Preliminary costing is
completed to insure
profitability.
Costing Considerations-
fabrics, trims, design
details, and labor costs.
• Once a sample pattern
has been approved for
size, costing, availability
of materials, and
potential profit; it is used
for production samples
and samples for sales
promotion, pattern for
mass production
prepared.
• Create an apparel
technical design pack for
production guideline.
• Detailed flat sketch with front
and back views. Should
include topstitching, pocket
and button placement,
placement of contrast
fabrications, hem and band
widths, label placement etc.
• Directions for any special
fabric direction or matching.
For example borders, napped
fabric etc.
• Any special seam allowances,
decorative or standard
topstitching, stitch length,
thread type and color.
• Include samples of fabrics and
trims. Clearly indicate what is
Self, Contrast, Trim, and
Lining fabrics.
• Measurement details.
• Care Instructions for labeling
• Color details and season
information
The approved pattern
(size M/10) is graded
into smaller and larger
sizes usually by
computer but can be
done by hand.
Final fabric selections
and trims are ordered
by suppliers.
Process of determining a
most efficient layout of
pattern pieces for a
style, fabric and
distribution of sizes.
Marker making is mostly
done by CAD systems
which give accuracy,
increase control over
variables and reduces
time required in making
markers.
preparatory operation for Types of Spreading:
cutting and consist of laying 1. Flat Spreading
piles of fabric one on top of 2. Stepped Spreading
the other in a predetermined
direction and relationship
between the right and the
wrong side of the garment.
The number of piles of each
color is obtain from the cut
order plan.
Number of piles depend on:
1. Capacity of the cutting machine
2. Volume of production
3. Type of fabric itself (rough or
slippery)
4. Thickness of fabric
STRAIGHT KNIFE
Vertical blade
Reciprocates up and down
Corners and curves can be cut
accurately
Most versatile and commonly used
Blades length - 6 to 14 inches
Spread depth depends on blade length
adjustable height of the blade guard
All of the pieces cut from a lay are
identical
ROUND KNIFE
Popular, light and fast.
Suitable only for cutting in straight
lines or very gradual curves, in depths
of about 15cm
Larger blade cuts up to 2" of soft or
bulky material, or lower lays of harder
material such as shirts
Small blade cuts single layer
A round blade contacts the spread at
an angle; thus, the top ply is cut before
the bottom ply
Batches of cut fabric move from
one work station to another in
systematically, with bundle
ticket, consist of e.g.
Order no. 6015
Bundle no. 1430
Quantity 12
Style no. 3145
Size 12
Section collar
Make Through System
When a tailor alone makes
a complete garment, then
it is called as make though
systems. The tailor even
makes pattern (use ready-
made pattern), cuts fabric
and does finishing of the
garment. For example,
tailors in the tailor shops
do all jobs from cut to
pack. In this system tailors
are not depended to
others.
Progressive Bundle System
In Progressive bundle system,
each operator does different
operations of a garment. All
sewing machines needed to
make the garment are laid in a
line. Cut parts are fed in a
bundle form. When an operator
receives a bundle of cut
components, she opens the
bundle and does her operation
(job) for all pieces of the bundle.
After completing her job she
moves the bundle to the next
operator who is doing next
operation. Numbers of people
are involved in sewing a single
garment.
Modular Production System
In ‘Modular production
system’ sewing operators
work as a team. Neither they
sew complete garment nor
do they sew only single
operation. Multi skilled
operators form a group and
each of the team members
do multiple operations. In
modular system, operators
help each other to finish the
garment quickly and team is
fully responsible for quality
and production.
Considered to be like portfolios, except
they represent a product line rather than
providing visual samples of one’s work
history. The term is relatively new. It came
out of the colleges.
Most companies provided both line sheets and a
look book of the current season.
The line sheets used flat drawings or pictures
of the clothes flat on a surface.
The look books were
given less frequently
and were much more
expensively done-
glossy, heavy paper,
beautiful graphics, etc.
They almost always had clothed models and
seemed to promote the brand and style of the
company or collection
What is this company saying
about their jeans?
Give your look a style name
What would you call this look?
Or this look?
