1.

Tanchoi textiles
2.pipli
• Tanchoi is one of the weaving techniques
involving a single or double warp and two to
five colors on the weft which are often of the
same shade, on Silk fabric. Famed for the
intricate and small weaving patterns over the
fabric, the commonly used patterns used are
those of flowers, small birds in flight, peacocks
and parrot motifs.
• In fact Tanchoi sarees are one of a kind which
have spots all over the surface and are woven
with a dual color wrap. Another stand-alone
feature of the Tanchoi sarees is that the fabric
texture background has a Satin finish. Some
extra threads are added to give the saris an
appearance of being embroidered.
 Origin and History

• Tanchoi Silk was is said to have been brought

to India through Chinese traders in 19th
century which was later adapted to suit
preferences of Indian wearers.
• Also, three Parsi (Persian immigrants to India)
brothers are said to have traveled to China in
the 19th century and were enamored by the
technique. 
• After learning the skill, they came back to
Gujarat and trained the weavers in the
technique and then innovated the Tanchoi
weaving technique into Indian versions.
While Tanchoi art was introduced
in Gujarat to start with in 1940s,
weavers from Banaras started
making cheaper versions of
Tanchoi sarees. Banarasi weavers
started incorporating zari work into
Tanchoi sarees. Banarasi Tanchoi
sarees have evolved into five
different varieties over the
decades.
 Variety

• Tanchoi’s innovation can be credited to the

weavers of Banaras who brought in zari work
into the already complex art. Banarasi Tanchoi
has several different varieties:
• Satin Tanchoi – As the name suggests, it is based on a Satin fabric
base of a single color and the weft threads of one or more colors.
The additional weft colors can also be used as a body weft.
• Satin Jari Tanchoi – This is an extension of Satin Tanchoi wherein
the weft is a combination of either one Silk and one Gold thread or
two Silk threads and one Gold thread.
• Atlas or Gilt – The fabric surface is pure satin. In comparison to
other fabrics, Atlas or Gilt is heavier and has more shine because
of the extra use of zari.
• Mushabbar – This version stands out with its net woven design to
appear as bushes or branches of a tree. The Mushabbar design is
often associated with a jungle or nature’s greenery.
Tanchoi sarees are a popular across
the country for formal occasion,
wedding ceremonies or festivals.
Tanchoi Silk Sarees are ideally worn
in cooler months of autumn and
winter owing to the fabric.
• Maintenance

• Tanchoi sarees ought to washed through the

process of dry cleaning. Drying them under
direct sunlight should be avoided. Tanchoi
Sarees have gradually gained popularity as
another type of Silk woven fabric, in India and
abroad.
• PIPLI of orissa
 history
• There is a fascinating legend of how applique came to be in
Puri and, eventually, Pipli. It tells of how Emperor Badshah, of
what might have been Delhi, ordered a darji or professional
tailor to create two pillows. The darji finished the first and
found his creation to be so beautiful that he thought them
only befitting for use by Lord Jagannath. When
the darji returned the next morning to complete his
handiwork, one of the pillows was found to be missing. Upon
learning this, Badshah imprisoned the darji for the crime of
stealing. However, that night, Lord Jagannath came to Badshah
in his dreams to tell him that it was he himself who
transported the pillow to Puri.
 PIPLI
• Pipli applique artisans are known to produce
the most exquisite motifs in Indian textile
applique. Motifs in Pipli applique are made up
of smaller pieces of fabric, or small
ornaments, that are of a variety of different
colours and textures. Sometimes, these motifs
are made up of patchwork, which explains
why the two textile arts are sometimes
confused.
• Embroidery work or mirror work may also
feature alongside Pipli applique, which adds to
the intricacy of its designs. Traditional motifs
and colours that have been used for centuries
still feature extravagantly in Pipli applique of
today. Popular Pipli applique motifs include:
• Geometric Patterns
• Abstract Astral Shapes
Floral Patterns/ Animal Motifs
• These are primarily stylised jasmines
(malli or mogra), sunflowers (suryamukhi) and
lotuses (padma), all sacred flowers in the
Hindu religion.
• Stylised birds and animals, most commonly
peacocks (mayur) and elephants (hat).
Exquisite designs may even feature motifs of
mythical birds, such as the double-headed
peacock (gandamayur or bhairaba).
 celestial Bodies and Mythical Creatures/
Abstract Motifs
• These usually include the sun (surya), moon
(chandra) and Rahu, the demon who is said to
devour the sun and moon, the result of which
is an eclipse or a lunar eclipse.
• Sometimes, abstract motifs take on a
schematic form to represent society, nature or
deities.
 Colours used
• Traditional colours in Pipli applique still feature in contemporary
creations, are not only striking, but also hold symbolic significance:
• a) Red, an auspicious colour in the Hindu religion and a sign of
prosperity
• b) Yellow, a colour that represents spirituality and enlightenment
• c) Green, a colour that signifies hope and new beginnings
• d) Black, used not only to outline designs and create striking
contrasts, but also to ward off evil
• e) White, which signifies peace and purity
• f) The base fabric, onto which smaller fabric motifs and
embellishments are stitched, to form awe-inspiring designs, is
usually one of four colours
• Today, contemporary Pipli applique items also
incorporate the use of other vibrant hues including
blue and non-customary shades of traditional
colours. The artisans make use of various forms of
stitching to make up the enchanting colourful
collages of Pipli applique. Though combinations of
these motifs and colours have been quite varied
for centuries, their symbolic representations of
traditional themes live on today.
• Thank you