The long tables at this Lyonnais bouchon are a school canteen throwback, except here, rather than turkey dinosaurs and chips, you’re tucking into tripe and andouillette. There isn’t much for vegetarians, except for the copious sharing salads passed along the red checked tablecloths for starters, but they’re welcomed with good humor all the same. The menu is belted from the bar using a large megaphone, and you’re obliged to speak to your neighbours to exchange carafes of cheap and cheerful wine. As a result, it’s noisy, and since it’s equally popular with locals and tourists, the din is in all languages. The pike quenelle is so big it bubbles up, volcano-like, from the serving dish.