Circle reminds us that the best dishes are often the simplest. They wow with fresh, seasonal ingredients—and olive oil so vivid it would make Elphaba from Wicked look jaundiced. The exterior is, dare we say, bland, but the flavor and texture combinations are anything but, and will take you well beyond Lyon. Okonomiyaki is served with a hazelnut and satay sauce and gochujang jelly, lobster bisque is the texture of panna cotta, and deconstructed makroud, a Tunisian date-filled cookie, are so light they evaporate in your mouth. In a welcome break from tradition, the six-course menu is €70 at both lunch and dinner (€90 for up to eight courses ), so head here for supper when there’s much more atmosphere.