L’Établi’s set menus of three, six, or seven courses hit the spot without leaving you stuffed. Most impressive is the sheer variety of textures—confit egg yolk, melty squid ink risotto, and, somehow, a sugary poached asparagus for dessert. They’re all great, but the humble bread is what you’ll still be dreaming about. A crusty cob is smeared in black sesame butter with a flavor that isn't humble at all. Getting to choose your own (highly ornate) bread knife is a lovely touch, as are the menus neatly folded into envelopes like love letters. Look under your coffee cup to find a hidden dessert.