Trattoria Pennestri is the spot to come to for a candlelight dinner. Rustic wooden tables are set with vases of fresh flowers, and oil paintings decorate the cream and bordeaux-colored walls. Their menu offers classics like carbonara, amatriciana, and cacio e pepe, along with less traditional options like pici all’aglione and the distinctly non-Roman seared duck breast with seasonal sauces. Don’t miss their rich chocolate mousse, served with pane carasau, rosemary, and sea salt—one of the best desserts in the city. The wine list may be small, but it’s packed with exceptional bottles from small Italian producers.