It’s the emerald green walls and the platter of coratella that’ll stay with you after a meal at Piperno, an old-school spot in the Jewish Ghetto. Made from lamb offal—heart, lungs, and liver—coratella is classic cucina povera, meaning humble ingredients turned into something rich and satisfying. Here, the innards are slowly sautéed with caramelized onions, creating a subtly sweet sauce that mellows their gamey flavor. Make sure to mop up the gravy with bread. This dish may come from peasant cooking, but the white tablecloths and sharp service say otherwise. Glasses are topped off without asking by waiters who recite the menu like they wrote it themselves.

photo credit: Maela Bonafede