Mosaic Bucket Bag Crochet-Along

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Click here to get your FREE Mosaic Bucket Bag PDF Planning Guide!

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First Things First… What’s A CAL?

***PLEASE NOTE: THIS CAL HAS FINISHED. YOU CAN STILL FIND THE PATTERN BELOW!***

A CAL (Crochet-Along) is an online event where a pattern is released in segments over the course of a number of weeks, and a community of crocheters works on it together. The Mosaic Bucket Bag CAL will begin on March 27 and last for 3 weeks. For this CAL, I’ll be keeping everything on this page; I’ll just update the page each time a new part of the pattern is released. The schedule is as follows:

Pre-Launch: Supply List (published)
Week 1: Base (published)
Week 2: Mosaic Section (published)
Week 3: Top, Drawstring, + Strap (published)

What’s the first thing you should do?

If you haven’t already, you should download your FREE Mosaic Bucket Bag PDF Planning Guide! This 8-page guide will walk you through the complete supply list, explain how the colors are chosen and how they work together, and give you lots of inspiration to fuel your creativity. It even includes a handy checklist so you know exactly what supplies you need and when!

(FYI, this is optional, and you’ll still be able to follow along with the crochet-along without the Planning Guide… but, I worked really hard on it and I am so excited about it, and I think you’re going to love it!)

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Click here to view your FREE Mosaic Bucket Bag PDF Planning Guide!

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Mosaic Bucket Bag on Ravelry

Ravelry lover? Click here to add the Mosaic Bucket Bag to your Ravelry favorites!

Join my Crochet-Along Facebook Group

Life is better together, right? That’s the heart behind a crochet-along, too! If you’re on Facebook and want to join our private group to ask questions, post progress pics, or just meet new friends while you work through the CAL, request your invite by clicking here.

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

Need a little extra help?

If you’re a visual learner, my tutorial videos are for you! You’ll find the step-by-step tutorials right here when they are published (according to the CAL schedule). Currently available: Video Planning Guide, Part 1: Base, Part 2: Mosaic, and Part 3: Top + Straps.

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MOSAIC BUCKET BAG

DIFFICULTY: Easy

FINISHED SIZES: Please note that measurements are approximate and may vary slightly depending on thickness of yarn used for COLOR C.

Laid flat:
Classic size: 12.5” (w) x 13” (h)
Mini size: 9.5” (w) x 8.5” (h)

Standing up with flat base, uncinched:
Classic size:   10” (w) x 5” (d) x 10” (h)
Mini size:   7.5” (w) x 4” (d) x 7” (h)

HOOK: F/G (4.0 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

YARN: Bag is comprised of 3 different yarns. For a full explanation of how each yarn is used, please download your FREE PDF Planning Guide or watch the Video Planning Guide.

COLOR A: #4 worsted weight (preferably cotton) in any color.
Classic size: 150 yds / Mini size: 100 yds

COLOR B: #4 worsted weight (same type yarn as COLOR A) in a light color.
Classic size: 140 yds / Mini size: 70 yds

COLOR C: Can be any weight, any fiber, as long as it is thinner than COLOR B.  Use darker colors for more contrast.
Classic size: 150 yds / Mini size: 80 yds

GAUGE: With COLOR A, 16SC x 20 rows = 4” square

ADDITIONAL SUPPLIES: 

• (8) 6mm or 8mm Eyelets. You can find packages of eyelets at craft stores, and they are usually available in colors like silver, gunmetal, and gold. Either size (6mm or 8mm) will work.
• Eyelet Setting Tool. Sometimes this comes with your eyelets, but may need to be purchased separately. Just be sure to get the right size (6mm or 8mm)! You’ll also need a hammer.
• (2) 1” D-Rings. Get the same color as the eyelets you chose.
• (2) Swivel Lobster Clasps. Again, make sure these match your eyelets and D-Rings.
• Craft Cord, 2mm or 4mm. This is for the drawstring. You’ll need two lengths of 34” each for the Classic size, and for the Mini size, two lengths of 30” each.
• Shoulder Strap. Nylon or cotton ribbon (sold by the yard) is an economical choice, but feel free to get creative! You’ll also need a needle and thread for sewing it. Choose measurements based on the wearer; for adults, you’ll need about 42”, and for kids, about 30”. Other options include sewing your own from another fabric, or ordering one online.

TERMS AND ABBREVIATIONS:

ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
Spike Stitch (see Special Stitches, below)

SPECIAL STITCHES:

SC Spike Stitch: Instead of inserting your hook into the top loops of the stitch, insert them into its base, then complete an SC. This will wrap your SCs over the top of the SCs from the previous round.

SL ST Spike Stitch: Follow instructions for SC Spike Stitch, but instead of completing an SC, complete a SL ST.

NOTES:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1s at the beginning of rounds do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
(3) When instructed to “join”, join with a slip stitch to the first stitch of the round.
(4) Because we utilize the SC Spike Stitch for entire rounds throughout the pattern, we will be referring to those rounds as an extension of the SC rounds they are being worked into. For example, if Round 32 is a round of SC, then the very next round which places spike stitches on top of those SCs will be referred to as Round 32B. This just makes for easier counting.

CLASSIC SIZE

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PART 1: BOTTOM
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To begin: CH15.

Round 1: 3SC in 2nd CH from hook, SC in each of the next 12 CH, 3SC in final CH (working around the tail to the other side). Working down the other side of the chain, SC in each of the next 12 CH. Join.  (30)

Round 2: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 12 STS. 2SC in each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 12 STS. 2SC in each of the next 3 STS. Join. (36)

Round 3: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in next ST. (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) 2 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. Join. (42)

Round 4: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) 3 times. Join. (48)

Round 5: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) 2 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. Join. (54)

Round 6: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS) 3 times. Join. (60)

Round 7: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) 2 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. Join. (66)

Round 8: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 6 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 6 STS) 3 times. Join. (72)

Round 9: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS) 2 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. Join. (78)

Round 10: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 8 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 8 STS) 3 times. Join. (84)

Round 11: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 9 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 9 STS) 2 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 9 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. Join. (90)

Round 12: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 10 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 10 STS) 3 times. DO NOT join. (96)

We are now switching to a seamless spiral. Do not join, turn or chain until instructed, and mark the first stitch of each round with a stitch marker so you don’t lose your place.

Round 13: Continuing in the same direction, SC in first ST (the ST you would have joined in, if we had joined the previous round) and in each ST around. Do not join. (96)

Rounds 14-22: SC in each ST around.

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PART 2: MOSAIC
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Switch to COLOR B. For the best transition, use the jogless method (demonstrated in the tutorial video for Part 2).

Round 23: SL ST in first ST of the round. (If you used the jogless color change method, you will have already done this.)  SC in each remaining ST around. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (96)

Round 23B: Insert hook into top loops of next ST; attach COLOR C and CH1; SC in same ST. SC SPIKE STITCH into next ST and each remaining ST. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (96)

Round 24: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. SC in each ST around (you’re working in the top loops of the SC Spike Stitches from the previous round). Remove hook. (96)

Round 24B: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR C. SC Spike Stitch in each ST around. Remove hook. (96)

Rounds 25-47B: Repeat Rounds 24-24B. (96)

Round 48: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. SC in each of the first 95 STS. SL ST in the final ST.  Remove hook. (96)

Round 48B: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR C. SC Spike Stitch in each of the first 95 STS. SL ST in the remaining ST. Remove hook. (96)

Fasten off both COLOR B and COLOR C (but don’t weave in ends yet).

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PART 3: TOP
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Turn bag right side out (if not already so). Fold it lengthwise along the bottom seam, and lay it flat so that the side with the joins and color changes is face up. Locate the stitch that sits atop the right-hand crease. Counting that stitch as #1, count over 8 stitches. Attach COLOR A into that 8th stitch; CH1.

Round 49: SC in same ST as CH1, and in each ST around. Join. (96)

Rounds 50-52: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around. Join. (96)

Round 53: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 11 STS. CH1, SK next ST. (SC in each of the next 11 STS; CH1, SK next ST) 7 times. Join. (96)

Round 54: CH1, turn. SC in first CH1 space. Continue to SC in each ST around, putting 1SC in each CH1 space. Join. (96)

Round 55: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 39 STS. SC each of the next 6 STS over a D-Ring. SC in each of the next 42 STS. SC each of the next 6 STS over a D-Ring. SC in each of the remaining 3 STS. Join. (96)

Round 56: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 3 STS. SC SPIKE STITCH in each of the 6 STS inside the D-Ring. SC in each of the next 42 STS. SC SPIKE STITCH in each of the 6 STS inside the D-Ring. SC in each of the remaining 39 STS. Join. (96)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Proceed to ADDING EYELETS, located after instructions for Mini Size bag.

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MINI SIZE

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PART 1: BOTTOM
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To begin: CH15.

Round 1: 3SC in 2nd CH from hook, SC in each of the next 12 CH, 3SC in final CH (working around the tail to the other side). Working down the other side of the chain, SC in each of the next 12 CH. Join.  (30)

Round 2: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 12 STS. 2SC in each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 12 STS. 2SC in each of the next 3 STS. Join. (36)

Round 3: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in next ST. (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) 2 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. Join. (42)

Round 4: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) 3 times. Join. (48)

Round 5: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) 2 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. Join. (54)

Round 6: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS) 3 times. Join. (60)

Round 7: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) 2 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. Join. (66)

Round 8: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 6 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 6 STS) 3 times. DO NOT join. (72)

We are now switching to a seamless spiral. Do not join, turn or chain until instructed, and mark the first stitch of each round with a stitch marker so you don’t lose your place.

Round 9: Continuing in the same direction, SC in first ST (the ST you would have joined in, if we had joined the previous round) and in each ST around. Do not join. (72)

Rounds 10-15: SC in each ST around. (72)

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PART 2: MOSAIC
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Switch to COLOR B. For the best transition, use the jogless method (demonstrated in the tutorial video for Part 2).

Round 16: SL ST in first ST of the round. (If you used the jogless  color change method, you will have already done this.)  SC in each remaining ST around. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (72)

Round 16B: Insert hook into top loops of next ST; attach COLOR C and CH1; SC in same ST. SC SPIKE STITCH into next ST and each remaining ST. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (72)

Round 17: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. SC in each ST around (you’re working in the top loops of the SC Spike Stitches from the previous round). Remove hook. (72)

Round 17B: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR C. SC Spike Stitch in each ST around. Remove hook. (72)

Rounds 18-30B: Repeat Rounds 17-17B. (72)

Round 31: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. SC in each of the first 71 STS. SL ST in remaining ST.  Remove hook. (72)

Round 31B: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR C. SC Spike Stitch in each of the first 71 STS. SL ST in remaining ST. Remove hook. (72)

Fasten off both COLOR B and COLOR C (but don’t weave in ends yet).

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PART 3: TOP
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Turn bag right side out (if not already so). Fold it lengthwise along the bottom seam, and lay it flat so that the side with the joins and color changes is face up. Locate the stitch that sits atop the right-hand crease. Counting that stitch as #1, count over 6 stitches. Attach COLOR A into that 6th stitch; CH1.

Round 32: SC in same ST as CH1, and in each ST around. Join. (72)

Round 33: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around. Join. (72)

Round 34: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 8 STS. CH1, SK next ST. (SC in each of the next 8 STS; CH1, SK next ST) 7 times. Join. (72)

Round 35: CH1, turn. SC in first CH1 space. Continue to SC in each ST around, putting 1SC in each CH1 space. Join. (72)

Round 36: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 28 STS. SC each of the next 6 STS over a D-Ring. SC in each of the next 30 STS. SC each of the next 6 STS over a D-Ring. SC in each of the remaining 2 STS. Join. (72)

Round 37: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 2 STS. SC SPIKE STITCH in each of the 6 STS inside the D-Ring. SC in each of the next 30 STS. SC SPIKE STITCH in each of the 6 STS inside the D-Ring. SC in each of the remaining 28 STS. Join. (72)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Proceed to ADDING EYELETS.

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ADDING EYELETS

With eyelets, eyelet setting tool and hammer ready, turn your bag inside out. Follow the instructions on your eyelet kit (or watch my video demonstration!) to add eyelets to each of the eight holes at the top of the bag. 

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ADDING DRAWSTRING

Option 1: Double Side Drawstrings

Lay bag flat (right side out). Starting on outside of bag, insert first length of craft cord (represented in purple) into the first eyelet on the left. Moving right (counter-clockwise), weave cord in and out through all 8 eyelets around the bag; the last one should exit the bag so that both ends of cord are outside the bag. Make sure bag is uncinched, then bring cord ends together and tie a tight knot close to the bag. Complete with second length of craft cord (represented in navy), but start on the eyelet on the right side of the bag and move left (clockwise).

Option 2: Single Centered Drawstring

Lay bag flat (right side out), seam side down. Starting on front of bag, locate center and insert craft cord in first eyelet to the left. Working left (in a clockwise direction), weave cord in and out through all 8 eyelets around the bag; the last one should exit the bag so that both ends of cord are outside the bag and can meet in the center. Make sure bag is uncinched, then bring cord ends together and tie a tight knot close to the bag.

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ADDING A STRAP

The following are very bare-bones instructions for making your own strap, but these instructions are meant specifically for someone like me who is not a seamstress and just needs something basic. Other options include purchasing straps online, or sewing your own from fabric. There are plenty of tutorials on YouTube for this if you are handy with a sewing machine!

For the rest of us, here’s what I did:

1. Thread strap through lobster clasp.

2. Fold the tip of the strap over about 1/2”.

3. Hold the fold from Step 2 in place and make another fold about 1” down, resting the hardware in that fold.

4. Use the texture of the material as a guide to sew a straight line across the strap, just below the first fold (as indicated in the photo), going through all three layers.

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DONE! If you’re sharing your bag on social media, be sure to use hashtag #mosaicbucketbagcal and tag me @yarnandchai.design!