The Times of Fiber: Recording the History of Fiber Art

Dive into the history of fiber art and its use as a symbol of status and cultural expression in East Asia.

By The Chung Young Yang Embroidery Museum

Silk Fragment Embroidered with Pearl Roundel (China, Tang Dynasty 7th~8th century) by UnknownThe Chung Young Yang Embroidery Museum

The exhibition 'Recording the History of Fiber Art' explores East Asian fiber art from its earliest traces to the pre-modern era. Religious attire, wedding garments, and official uniforms highlight the traditions of fiber art.

Bronze Mirror with Remains of Embroidered Silk Cover (China, Warring States period) by UnknownThe Chung Young Yang Embroidery Museum

The History of Fiber Art

Embroidery designs used in ancient East Asia seem to have been inspired by hunting, shamanistic symbolism and incantation ceremonies. Fiber art became a medium for conveying political, religious, and cultural messages for the elite through intricate techniques.

Bronze Mirror with Remains of Embroidered Silk Cover, Unknown, China, Warring States period, From the collection of: The Chung Young Yang Embroidery Museum

Silk Fragment Embroidered with Pearl Roundel, Unknown, China, Tang Dynasty 7th~8th century, From the collection of: The Chung Young Yang Embroidery Museum

Embroidered Fragment Depicting Lions and Palmette, Unknown, Central Asia or China, 12th~13th century, From the collection of: The Chung Young Yang Embroidery Museum

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In East Asia, silk embroidery was more than decoration; it was a status symbol. The designs reflected the wearer's aspirations and position in society.

Woman’s Robe (Replica) by UnknownThe Chung Young Yang Embroidery Museum

The Chain Stitch

In 1972, the Mawangdui tombs in China revealed a treasure trove of Han dynasty silks (221BCE~226CE). These well-preserved textiles are adorned with flowing, abstract designs of animals, plants, and clouds, all meticulously created using chain stitch.

The chain stitch enabled embroiderers to create such sweeping, curvilinear patterns.

Chain Stitch on Woman’s Robe (Replica) by UnknownThe Chung Young Yang Embroidery Museum

Exhibition view, 'The Times of Fiber: Recording the History of Fiber Art ' (2025-05-08/2025-12-30) by The Chung Young Yang Embroidery Museum, Sookmyung Women's UniversityThe Chung Young Yang Embroidery Museum

East Asian Ceremonial Costumes

Ceremonial garments in East Asia use symbols to represent the wearer's life, culture, and role in the universe. These aren't just decorations; they visually communicate deep religious and cultural meanings through instrumental expressions.

Twelve-symbol Semiformal Robe Worn during a Ritual for Rain (China Qing dynasty(1644-1911)) by unknownThe Chung Young Yang Embroidery Museum

Symbols of Power

In East Asia, certain design patterns like dragons, phoenixes, and clouds traditionally symbolized the authority of the royal family and aristocrats.

Heir Apparent's Robe, unknown, China Qing dynasty(1644-1911), From the collection of: The Chung Young Yang Embroidery Museum

King's Official Robe, Jeon Nan-soo, Replica, From the collection of: Sookmyung Women’s University Museum

Ceremonial Armor, Unknown, China, Qing dynasty, From the collection of: The Chung Young Yang Embroidery Museum

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Dragon motifs on royal garments reinforced authority. The color and pattern combinations visually communicated the social status and hierarchy of the wearer.

Woman's Court Robe (Korea, 19th century) by UnknownSookmyung Women’s University Museum

Symbols in Women's Attire

Woman's Wedding Robe (Hwarot), Unknown, Korea, 19th century, From the collection of: Sookmyung Women’s University Museum

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The phoenix symbolizes royal women, while the peony represents wealth and good fortune in East Asian fiber art. These motifs were used to communicate status and auspicious wishes through clothing.

Uchikake with Cranes, Pine Trees, and Mt. Fuji_front (Japan Edo period(1603–1868)) by unknownThe Chung Young Yang Embroidery Museum

Symbols of Long Life

Costumes are often designed with symbols of longevity and dignity to wish the wearer happiness and a long life. Patterns featuring cranes, pine trees, and turtles were often incorporated.

Mongolian Woman's Robe (Mongol, 19th century) by UnknownThe Chung Young Yang Embroidery Museum

Ceremonial Attire of East Asia

Here's a look at various ceremonial attire from East Asia, each piece reflecting deep cultural and symbolic meanings through its design and materials.

Miao 'Hundred Bird Coat', Unknown, China, Guizhou province, Early 20th century, From the collection of: The Chung Young Yang Embroidery Museum

Kaparamip, Unknown, Japan, Early 20th century, From the collection of: Sookmyung Women’s University Museum

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Hanging with Twenty Embroidered Buddhas Appliqued on a Yellow Silk Ground (China Qing dynasty(1644-1911)) by unknownThe Chung Young Yang Embroidery Museum

East Asian Religious Symbols

Thangka Embroidered with Figures of The Five Spirits of Destiny(Gobiin Lha) (Mongol, 19th century) by unknownThe Chung Young Yang Embroidery Museum

Buddhism

This Thangka exemplifies sacred paintings and embroideries displayed in Tibetan, Mongolian, and Nepalese temples, monasteries, and shrines.

Robe of Descent, Unknown, China, Qing dynasty, From the collection of: The Chung Young Yang Embroidery Museum

Daoist Ceremonial Hat, Unknown, China, Qing dynasty, From the collection of: The Chung Young Yang Embroidery Museum

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As for Taoist clothing, patterns that depict immortals and natural elements were used to express the state of ultimate bliss in Taoism and its connection with humans.

Wedding Banner Woven Pheonix and Dragon Design Symbolized Man and Women (China Qing dynasty(1644-1911)) by unknownThe Chung Young Yang Embroidery Museum

East Asian Wedding Traditions

In East Asian cultures, red symbolizes good fortune, making it a popular choice for wedding garments.

Manchu Woman’s Wedding Robe, Unknown, China, Qing dynasty, From the collection of: The Chung Young Yang Embroidery Museum

Red Uchikake Embroidered with Cranes, Turtles, Pine Branches, and Plum Blossoms, unknown, Japan Edo period, 19th century, From the collection of: The Chung Young Yang Embroidery Museum

Woman's Wedding Robe (Hwarot), Unknown, Korea, 19th century, From the collection of: Sookmyung Women’s University Museum

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In East Asian wedding traditions, red symbolizes happiness. Wedding robes use this color as a base, embroidered with symbols of longevity and dignity to bless the wearer.

Wedding Document Carrier, Unknown, China, Qing dynasty, From the collection of: The Chung Young Yang Embroidery Museum

Wrapping Cloth for Engagement, Unknown, Korea, 19th century, From the collection of: Sookmyung Women’s University Museum

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In traditional wedding ceremony of China and Korea, the bride and groom exchanged letters containing personal details such as their birth dates before marriage. This artifact was used to hold and deliver those letters.

Double Crane Insignia in Gold Thread (Korea, Late 19th Century) by UnknownSookmyung Women’s University Museum

The Times of Fiber: Korean Embroidery Art

Explore the captivating beauty and enduring value of Korean traditional embroidery art.→Read more

Embroidered Folding Screen with Ten Longevity Symbols (Korea, 1958) by Lee Shin-jaSookmyung Women’s University Museum

The Times of Fiber: Modern Korean Embroidery

Learn more about modern embroidery art that continues the tradition of Korean embroidery.→Read more

This story is based on the special exhibition The Times of Fiber: Carrying Tradition and Connecting the Future, which was selected for the “2025 University Museum Promotion & Support Project,” hosted by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism and organized by the Korean Association of University Museums.

Credits: Story

Planned by The Chung Young Yang Embroidery Museum and Sookmyung Women's University Museum
Photographyed by Han Jung-youp and Seo Heon-kang

Credits: All media

The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.

The Chung Young Yang Embroidery Museum

Sookmyung Women’s University Museum

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