Not enough hours in the day

 

Not enough hours in the day

You know that feeling, when work is super busy, and you have housework to do, and you actually have to cook, eat and do basic self- care, but you still have the need to bead? Well that’s how I was feeling on Friday night. Work had been very intense for a couple of weeks, and I was just wrung out. I’m getting a kitten in a couple of weeks, so there’s preparation and kitten-proofing to do… but still, I needed to bead. My brain had definitely checked out, so I just let my fingers do the beading. The general aim was to make a circular pendant, I would have sworn up and down there were 12 gemduos in the centre… but I was obviously very tired, and there are only 11. So, there aren’t enough hours in the day to get everything done, and if my pendant were a clock, there wouldn’t be enough hours on that either! That’s how this pendant was born.

For the two examples I made, I used Miyuki seed beads, I’ll give the colour references at the end.

When I made the purple version, I used 3mm bicones in place of 2mm fire polish beads – it worked, but I didn’t feel like they sat quite right – it’s an alternative if you don’t have any 2mm fire polish in your stash!

 

What you’ll need to make this

A.      Size 11 seed beads (2g) 

B.      Size 11 seed beads (2g)

C.       Size 15 seed beads (3g)

D.      Size 15 seed beads (1g)

E.       Gemduo beads (11) (check that both holes are clear before starting)

F.       3mm fire polish beads (15)

G.      4mm fire polish beads (11)

H.      2mm fire polish beads (11)

I.         Chain and clasp

 

Anything else?

Beading needle (I use Miyuki)
Beading thread (I use fireline 0.10mm)
Bead mat

You'll probably need about a wingspan and a half of thread for this project, if you're comfortable working with a thread that long - go for it! If like me, you're recovering f
rom dislocating your shoulder, or you just prefer a shorter working thread, then you'll probably need to add a second thread part way through. 

1.       Pick up 1(A), 1(E), repeat 11 times. Go though all 22 beads again to form a ring, tie a double knot, go forward through your ring so that your thread is exiting an (E) and step up so that your thread is exiting the top hole of the gemduo.  You’ll notice here that you can see the thread along the side of the gemduo where you’ve stepped up, don’t worry, it’ll get hidden and you won’t be able to see it.  This is also the best time to weave in and cut off your tail thread.

2.       Pick up 1(F), go through the next top hole of the next (E). Repeat all the way around the ring, adding 11 3mm fire polish beads between the tops of the gemduos. Step up so that your thread is exiting from one of the gemduos.

 

3.       Pick up 4(C), go through the (A) between the gemduos and back up 2(C).

 

4.       Pick up 2(C) and go into the next gemduo. This makes a little Y shape of size 15 seed beads between the gemduos.

 

5.       Repeat steps 3 and 4 all the way around the pendant and step up so that your thread is exiting from a 3mm fire polish bead. You will find that the 3mm fire polish beads have been pushed to the back a little, and this is absolutely fine, so don’t worry!

6.       Pick up 4(B), go through the next (F), repeat all the way around the pendant. Step up so that your thread is exiting from the second (B) added in the first group of 4(B) added in this step.

 

7.       Pick up 1(B), go through the next 2(B), 1(F), 2(B). Repeat this all the way around the pendant, adding a point bead to the groups of 4(B). Step up so that your thread is exiting from the first (B) added in this step.

 

8.       Pick up 1(A), 1(G), 1(A), go through the next point (B). Repeat this all the way around the pendant. Do not pull tight in this step, there will be a bit of thread visible between the point (B) beads and the groups of 1(A), 1(G), 1(A), but it will be tightened up as we work through the next steps. Step up so that your thread is exiting from the first (G) added in this step on the reverse side of the pendant.

 

9.       We’re going to carry on working on the back of the pendant, and join the (F) and (G) beads together with little loops of 3(C) beads. Pick up 3(C), go through the (F) underneath the (G), pick up 3(C) and go through 1(G), 1(A), 1(B), 1(A), 1G).

 

10.   Repeat step 9 all the way around the pendant. Step up so that your thread is exiting from an (A) bead facing towards a (G).

 

11.   Use fairly light tension for this step, we will tighten it up in the following steps. Pick up 5(C), go through the (A) on the opposite side of the (G). Pick up 1(H), go through the next (A).

 

12.   Repeat step 11 all the way around the pendant, and step up so that your thread is exiting from the last (C) of the first group of 5(C) we added in step 11.

 

13.   Now we will increase the tension and ensure the loops of 5(C) sit around the outside edge of the pendant. Pick up 1(D), go through the (H). Pick up 1(D), go through the next 5(C). Repeat this all the way around the pendant. The ring of the pendant is now complete. Steps 14 onwards show how to make the bail – the part used to hang the pendant from a chain.

 

14.   With your thread exiting from the second (C) of a group of 5(C), pick up 1(B), 1(F), 1(B), 3(A), 1(B), 1(F), 1(B). Go into the next (C) in the group of 5(C).

 

15.   Pick up 1(B), 1(F), 1(B), 3(A), 1(B), 1(F), 1(B), go back into the middle (C), and then up into the (B) from group added in step 14.

 

16.   Go down into the corresponding (B) from the second group and back up into the (B) from the first group, effectively joining the two (B)s together using square stitch. Step up so that your thread is exiting from the (F).  (I know the photo looks like the thread is coming from the (B), but it should definitely be coming from the (F)).

 

17.   Pick up 3(D), go down the opposite 1(F), 1(B), and then back up through the 1(B), 1(F), 1(B), 2(A).

 

18.  Pick up 3(A), go through the middle (A) on the opposite side, back through the 3(A) you just  added and back through the (A) you started from in this step. GO through (A), 1(B), 1(F), 1(B). Join the two (B) beads together using square stitch as we did on the front side of the bail in step 16, and then step up so that your thread is exiting from 1(F), pointing away from the pendant.

 

19.   Pick up 3(D), go down through the 1(F) on the opposite side.

 

20.   You can reinforce the thread path of the bail and where it joins to the pendant if you feel your connection could do with strengthening. Weave in, tie off and trim your thread ends and add a chain to the bail.

 

21.   If you struggle to get your chain through the bail, try threading some beading thread through the chain end and then pulling this through the bail – it should help encourage your chain to go through.

 

 

I still can’t figure out which side of the pendant I prefer – especially on the purple version!

 

Bead colours used in my examples

		Purple/Silver	Golden
A	Size 11 seed bead	Miyuki 5115	Miyuki 4220
B	Size 11 seed bead	Miyuki 538	Miyuki 1072L
C	Size 15 seed bead	Miyuki 4201	Miyuki 4220
D	Size 15 seed bead	Miyuki 1899	Miyuki 462
E	Gemduo	Purple velvet / small target etched	Rainbow gold
F	3mm fire polish beads	Metallic turquoise	Crystal gold
G	4mm fire polish beads	Metallic dark purple	Etched slipperit
H	Edging beads	3mm Swarovski bicones, Crystal iridescent green	True2 2mm firepolish 24k gold AB

 

Pixie Earrings

 These earrings are named after my lovely kitty-cat and beading companion, Pixie. I came up with the design while I was trying to work out new ways to use up some of the two-hole beads in my stash.  As they’re component based, it’s easy to make smaller earrings using either just the rivoli or chaton elements, or bead a bunch of the elements and join them together to make a bracelet or necklace. 

I chose a very smoky, sultry colour scheme for my earrings, but these would look beautiful in pearl tones for a bride or pastel colours for a spring look, or even black and silver to complement a little black dress! If you love this colour scheme, I've listed the bead colours I used at the end.

What you'll need to make this:

A. Size 11 seed beads (2g)
B. 40 half tila beads
C. Size 15 seed beads (3g) (to match A)
D. Size 15 seed beads (3g)
E. 20 quarter tila beads

2 14mm rivolis
2 ss39 chatons (8mm)
ear wires

Anything else? 

Beading thread (I use fireline 0.10mm)
Beading needles (I use Miyuki brand)
Bead mat
Scissors or thread zap
Pliers for opening and closing ear wires

1.     Pick up 1(A),1(B) 10 times and tie in a circle with a double knot. Thread through a few beads until you are exiting a (B), and then thread through the top hole of the (B). 

2.     Pick up 1(B) and thread through the top hole of the next (B) in the circle from step 1. Repeat around the circle, go through the first (B) you added in this step and then through the top hole.

 

3.     Pick up 1(A) and go through the top hole of the next (B) in the circle from step 2. Repeat this around the circle but do not pull tightly yet. Go through the first (A) added in this step, keeping the tension very loose, then add the 14mm Rivoli with the front facing up. Pull your thread tight and reinforce the thread path. Go back through the outer hole of one of the (B) beads.

 

4.     Pick up 4(D), go through the corresponding hole on the next (B) on the front side of the bezel. Repeat a further 9 times all the way around the bezel. Step up by going up the first 2(D) added in this step.

 

5.     Pick up 1(D), go through 2(D),1(B),2(D). Repeat this around the bezel. Adding the 5th bead to the picot in this way makes them more pointy.
Step up by exiting from a (B) bead with your thread coming out towards the front of the bezel.

 

6.     Pick up 3(C). Go though the next (B). Repeat this around the bezel. Step up by exiting from the first (C) added in this step. To make these picots more pointy, we will: skip the middle (C), go through the third (C) and the next (B). Repeat around the bezel; go through 1(C), skip 1(C), go though 1(C),1(B). Thread through to the outer hole of a (B) on the back of the bezel.

 

7.     To make the loop for the earwire: Pick up 7(C), go though the next (B). To reinforce this loop, go down through the lower hole in the (B),1(A),1(B), up through the top hole in the (B) and through the 7(C) again.  Weave in your thread ends and tie off.

 

8.     To make the chaton element: Pick up 10(E) and tie in a circle with a double knot. Go through a few of the (E) beads again, the up to the top hole of the (E) your thread is exiting.

 

9.     Pick up 1(A), go though the next (E) in the ring. Repeat this around the ring and step up by exiting from the first (A) you added in this step.

 

10.  Pick up 3(D), go back though the (A) your  thread was exiting, and thread through 1(E), 1(A).

 

11.  Pick up 2(D), thread down through the first (D) added in step 11, the (A) your thread started from in this step and 1(E),1(A) (this is a modified Right Angle Weave). Repeat this 7 more times (total of 8 times).

 

12.  With your thread exiting the last (A), thread up through the 3^rd (D) added in step 11, pick up 1(D), and thread down through the 1^st (D) on the opposite side. Then thread back through 1(A), 2(D). Before pulling everything tight, pop the chaton into the bezel. This will not hold the chaton in place yet.

 

13.  Pick up 1(C), go through 1(D). Repeat all the way around the bezel. Getting the chaton to sit square in the bezel can be a little tricky, but with a little patience and manipulation, you will get there. Once it’s how you’d like it, pull your thread tight, then reinforce this thread path several times.  Step up to exit from an (A) bead.

 

14.  Pick up 4(D), go through 1(A). Repeat a further 9 times all the way around the bezel. Step up by going up the first 2(D) added in this step.

 

15.  Pick up 1(D), go through 2(D),1(A),2(D). Repeat this around the bezel. Adding the 5^th bead to the picot in this way makes them more pointy.
Step up by exiting from a (A) bead with your thread coming out towards the front of the bezel.

 

16.  Pick up 3(C), go though the next (A). Repeat this around the bezel. There is no need to repeat step 7 on this bezel as it is smaller and the picots are naturally very pointy.

 

17.  Thread through your work so that your thread exits the middle (3^rd) (D) on one of the outer picots. Pick up 2(D), thread through 3(D) on the bottom of larger, rivoli bezel.  Thread through the outer hole on the (B), (A), and the outer hole on the next (B). Thread down though 3(D), pick up 2(D) and down through 3(D) on the corresponding picot of the chaton bezel. Reinforce this thread path, then weave in and trim the thread ends.

 

18.  Add the earwire to the loop at the top and repeat steps 1-18 to make the second earring.

I'd love to see what you make using this design. Please feel free to tag me on Instagram or Facebook @BeadsbyBecs or use the hashtag #beadsbybecs

A. size 11 seed beads - Miyuki California black violet

B. half tila beads - Miyuki dark bronze

C. size 15 seed beads - Miyuki California black violet

D. size 15 seed beads - Miyuki matte metallic khaki iris
E quarter tila beads - Miyuki dark bronze

14mm rivolis - Preciosa venus

ss39 chatons - Preciosa lava 

Scintilla Necklace

I think it'd be fair to admit that I'm a nerd, or maybe a geek. I spent nearly 8 years at university studying chemistry, so some of that geekiness inevitably sneaks out into me beading occasionally. This time it's the name of the design that's geeky. Scintillating is something that is sparkly or shining brightly, but it came to my mind because of scintillation counters which measure ionising radiation. I'll just leave a wiki link here before I lose you all! 

Back to the beads! 

These bezels are designed to be sparkly above all else. The crystal bicones make up the majority of the bezel, which is pretty unusual, there are a few seed beads at the back for stability... And then just a chain to turn them into a necklace. 

This bezelled chatons doesn't have to be used in a necklace, nor does it have to be clear crystals - I've made some earrings using this bezel before, and I love them. Check out the picture at the bottom of the page for the earrings. But you could use a row of these bezelled chatons as a bracelet, or add a few here and there throughout some beadwork for some sparkle.  

What you will need to make this: 

A. Size 15  Miyuki seed beads (silver) 2g)

B. 3mm crystal bicones (80)

C. 4mm crystal bicones (89)

D. Size 11 Miyuki seed beads (3g)

E. ss39 (8mm) chatons (10)

F. 30cm of chain + clasp and jump rings

Anything else? 

Bead mat, beading needle (my favourite is Miyuki needles), thread (I strongly recommend fireline for this as there are so many crystals), scissors or a thread zap, pliers for opening and closing jump rings. 

1.    Pick up 1(A),1(B) 8 times (total 16 beads). Go through all of these beads again and tie into a circle. Go through a couple of beads in the circle so that your thread is exiting a (B) bead.

2.    Pick up 1(C), 1(D) and go back through the (C) bead again. Skip the (A) bead in the circle and go through the next (B) in the circle. This adds the bicone as a little fringe.

 

 

3.    Repeat step 2 around the circle adding a total of 8(C) beads. Step up by exiting the (D) bead added in step 2.

4.    Pick up 1(D), pass through the (D) on the tip of the next crystal around on the circle. Repeat this until you have added a total of 8(D) beads and the circle is closed, go through the first (D) bead added in this step. Place your chaton into the centre of the circle, flat side down and pull the thread tight to close the circle.

5.    Pick up 1(D), go through the next 2(D) beads added in step 4. Do not go through any of the (D) beads from step 3. Repeat this three more times until you have added a total of 4(D) beads. Step up by going through the first (D) added in this step.

6.    Pick up 1(A), go through 1(D). Repeat 3 more times until you have added a total of 4(1). Sew through all 8 beads used in this step again to reinforce the thread path, then weave in, tie off and cut your threads. Repeat steps 1-6 until you have 10 bezelled chatons.

7.    With a new length of thread, weave and tie into one chaton and exit from one of (C) beads, facing towards the front of the bezel. Pick up 1(C) and go through a (C) on another bezel from front to back. Pick up 3(D) and go though the (C) on the first bezel. Leave an 8 inch tail thread as we will use this later.

8.    Pick up 1(A) and go through the connecting (C), pick up 1(A) and go through the (C) on the second chaton. Repeat this thread path without adding any beads, then step up by going through the (D) on the back of the (C) bead of the second bezel.

9.    To move across to the correct place to add the next bezelled chaton, we are going to add (D) beads between the (D) beads added in step 3. *Pick up 1(D), go through (D)* Repeat between * 3 times. Step up by going through the (C) bead toward the front of the bezel.

10. Repeat steps 7-9 until all 10 chatons are joined.

11. Move to the correct place to add your loop to connect your chain: *Pick up 1(D), go through (D)* Repeat between * 3 times. Go through the (C) and pick up 7(D). Go back through the (C) to make a loop. Repeat this thread path several times to strengthen it. Weave in, tie off and cut your thread. Repeat this step at the opposite end of your necklace using the tail thread.

12.  Using a jump ring, attach your chain to your (D)bead loops at each end of your necklace. If required, add the claps to your chain using jump-rings. 

I made this pair of earrings using the bezel for this necklace, they work beautifully - I used opal chatons and opal ABx2 bicones for as much sparkle as possible. 

       

      I'd love to see what you make using this design - feel free to tag me in your pictures on Instagram @BeadsByBecs or using the hashtag #BeadsByBecs