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Gyaru

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Shibuya Gal Shop Staff from the brand MA*RS

Gyaru (ギャル) is a Japanese transliteration of the English slang word 'gal'. Its usage peaked in the early 2000s and has since gradually declined. The decline[1] has been often refereed due to a strategy by the magazine organizations,[2] over-exaggeration of the use fashion itself[3], western media itself[4] or even sometimes considered sometimes to be because of the government for its decline; but in reality its decline began because of the Tōhoku earthquake and tsunami of 2011, which created a grieving period and realization in the women whom lived in Japan; even some gyaru themselves became or tried to be less materialistic and become more minimal in their style. The term gradually drifted to apply to a slightly older group, whose seeming lack of interest in work or marriage; made it that these women were remarked as childish or even to be considered hussies[5] due to its past and its present connotation. It is now used almost interchangeably with kogal.

Gyaru subculture had during the Heisei era a large influence in Japan's fashion and its economy; with gyaru brands branching out and eventually declining[6]. Becoming more accessible in rural areas.[text–source integrity?] In Tokyo, near the main train station by the Shibuya crossing; there you would find a mall called Shibuya 109, which at the time was a popular place of refuge for gyaru. This is where this fashion sub-culture was most often seen. In that said era, it was decided to completely dedicated and offer the newest and trendiest items or brands for gyaru; from popular Gal brands to even some more independent brands that were Japanese for Japanese, in said mall. Therefore the shopping would be mostly done their in Shibuya 109. But with time, some brands would also reach overseas by having their brands to be in at an convention with a pop-up store or their items becoming more easily accessible in webshops offering worldwide shipping services or by other means of shopping for said items; such as second-hand re-selling of older items or newer items of apparel or accessories.

Description

A woman wearing gyaru/Ganguro fashion in 2007

Gyaru is a description of either men but mostly women who follow a type of Japanese street fashion with many sub-categories many types of that originated in the 1970s.[7] Its popularity peaked in the 1990s and early 2000s, then changed and became more accessible and widely popular in Japan and out of the East. In the 2010s gyaru fashion for women, is typically characterized by having heavily bleached or dyed hair (mostly shades from dark brown to blonde), tanned skin, highly elongated decorated nails, and dramatic makeup. The makeup typically consists of dark eyeliner and fake eyelashes used in ways intended to make the eyes appear larger, contouring of the face and nose which was done for a slimming effect; also using colour contacts to fake or change the colour of their eyes and enlarging their eyes as well. Apparel for gyaru fashion differ depending on which gyaru style the individual would have chosen and also where said individual would buy their items from the Japanese brand or even if it were from western fast-fashion brands would still determine their style in gyaru fashion sub-culture. Some would even have the luxury to buy from western high-branded or Haute Couture brands. But those who lived in Japan, mostly stuck to certain brands from Japan itself depending on their style; mostly originating from Shibuya 109.

Shibuya 109 in 2007

Popular recurring gyaru models, icons and idols would of included that who would've been easily recognized during its peak; were Tsubasa Masuwaka; 益若つばさ, Kumiko Funayama; 船山久美子 (Kumicky), Rie Matsuoka; 松岡理恵 (Okarie), Hikari Shiina; 椎名ひかり (Pikarin), Satomi Yakuwa; 湯川里民 (Satomin), Sayoko Ozaki; 尾崎紗代子, Yuka Kowara (Yunkoro) 小原由香, Rina Sakurai; 桜井莉菜 さくりな, Nana Suzuki 鈴木奈々and twins Chika & Chie Yoshikawa 吉川千佳&恵 (Guri & Gura). The names in brackets are their magazine or modeling nicknames or aliases on online social media websites.

Common gyaru styles

Three unknown Gal models being photographed.

There are various subcategories of "gal" fashion depending on the choice of apparel, but also gender.

  • gyaru-kei (ギャル系/gyaru-style): The default gyaru style. It is an umbrella term for the many subcategories or themes of gal styles.
  • Ganguro (ガングロ): A gyaru with an artificial deep tan and bleached hair; and makeup which tended to use white around the eyes and on the lips and darker shades on the eyes. Also decorations such as glitter or flower such hibiscus flower stickers added on the under part of the eyes. This style was popular in the late 1990s and early 2000s.
  • Manba (まんば)[8]: Manba is darker then ganguro, but also wilder then ganguro. Manba would wear sexy outfits from very short to very long dresses, or shorts to long skirts. Accessories (such as bangles, beads, etc.) would also include the motif of flowers such as Leis, Hibiscus which these patterns would appear on their clothes. Colorful clothing was a must. They would some times wear sweat shirt, pants and leg warmers. Disney character make an appearance as a choice of fashion apparel such as characters as stitch from 'Lilo & Stitch' and also infamous characters from Micky Mouse franchise. The white lips remained and white eye-shadow were applied. It also depends on the manba's eye shadow which can be placed on a different place around the eyes. It could be a lot or very scarce appliance of eyeshadow. Some manbas also use different eye-shadow color on their eye lids. The use of glitter was acceptable. Stickers weren't used under the eyes anymore, instead they were replaced with rhinestones (however they did not have to necessarily need put them on). Hair styles big hair, bouffant, high ponytail with partly hair down, synthetic dreads, ribbons braided in as well as some fake lays, teased, side-swept, fringe, braids, curled, or plan straight, very colorful. Hair accessories like leis/ other type of flowers/bows, straw cowboys hats, or straw hats. Flip flops, sandals, platform sandals, slippers, crocs, boots, leg warmers.
  • Yamanba (やまんば): Like manba, but the nose contour stripe which was white coloured goes past the eyebrows; also Yamanaba also means old mountain hag in Japanese, the style was regarded by the Japanese civilians as improper or even dirty.
  • Banba (バンバ): Banba is a lighter form of manba. Banbas wear less white makeup than manbas; they also use more glitter, and may or may not have neon colored hair. Banbas wear more extreme-looking types of false eyelashes, and colored contact lenses. Banbas wear darker colors than manbas, and sometimes dress in club wear.
    Picture of Himena Osaki a Hime-gyaru infulencer, taken in 26 May 2012
  • Hime-gyaru: Also known as Hime-kei. It is one of the more over the top and also one of the most expensive style of dress of all of the categories since it is a must to buy from the brand 'MA*RS' or 'Princess Melody'. The hime style is largely based on the Rococo era. Gyaru of this style wear dresses or skirts in pink or other pastel colors with lots of laces and bows. Rose patterns, rosettes, pearls and crown motifs are also very common. Headpieces range from large bow clips with pearls to headbands with a rose accent, while the hair is either bleached in a certain color, poofed up or crimped in a bouffant at the top and curled or a wig/extensions are worn. The make-up style has even more exaggerated eyes than the typical gyaru. Hime-gyaru does not only include clothes, but many girls see it as a way of life and make or buy custom-made decor for their homes. The style blossomed in the early 2000s but has since declined or turned more casual (this version is referred to as hime kajii; but this style mostly use the fashion brand 'Liz Lisa' then the now obsolete brand 'Princess Melody'.), even if the old it is still present today in some sub-circles. Not to be confused with Lolita fashion.
  • Agejo (上げ序): A style that was highly active, Agejo was mostly inspired and its aesthetic was always referenced in the magazine Koakuma Ageha. It is a very foxy, ladylike, and mature style. It is generally worn by, but is not always exclusively to, a hostess. With the intention to be in sort: being flawlessly glamorous, and desirable. The agejo style has an emphasis on the eyes, often enlarging and enhancing them with circle lenses, and several sets of false eyelashes; but in a more alluring way. The hair is always styled in an up-do; almost as hime-gyaru with curls or hair that was poofed up or crimped, and sometimes includes extensions and sometimes even wigs. It is very common for those participating in the agejo style were to wear multiple wigs at the same time. Agejo style is similar to hime-gyaru with the exception of being more skimpy and the intention to be classy.
Yamanba style [gyaru] participant
  • Amekaji (アメカジ) or "American casual": It is a usually very bright, fun, flamboyant and is generally multi-coloured style; inspired by a fictionalised images of America. Clothes are generally looser then most of the other styles. They usually have many layers that overlap each other. It mostly involves sweaters, bomber-jackets from the early 2000s and coats such as Letterman jackets. In the summer they would wear t-shirts and cargo pants. Also, they would mostly wear their boyfriend's clothes. Shoes are mostly tennis shoes, uggs, engineer boots. Girly shorts are welcome (for the girls).
  • Western gyaru, often referred as 'foreign gyaru' often called online as gaijin-gyaru "外人ギャル". Women and even men who have found gyaru fashion outside Japan and participate in said fashion sub-culture (Western gyaru includes countries also outside of the west such as the middle-east.). The term Amerigyaru was short-lived, since it was used for people who identified with gyaru lifestyle and/or fashion in America. When Western/Gaijin-gyaru created their own communities, and forums with lists of tutorials to help beginner gyaru with make up and hair basics and to also meet up with each other during travel if they did choose so.
  • gyaruo (ギャル男): A male gyaru. Typically, gyaruo have similar elements to their appearance with gyaru in terms of having high volume styled hair, trendy fashion styles, and sometimes tanned skin.
  • Kogyaru: Generally a high school student (高校生 kōkōsei).
  • JK gyaru: term for kogyaru in school uniforms.
  • Ane gyaru: gyaru style that has the yanki and biker gang culture with gyaru makeup and style. The girls drive or ride bikes, and tend to have tattoos and piercings. They not only look rebellious, but the magazine caters to girls who live on the edge. Ane gyaru is more of a tougher version of Onee gyaru, and are for a bit more mature and more virile yet effeminate gals. Magazine of choice for fans and followers is Soul Sister, a relatively new magazine.
  • Gyaru-mama (ギャルママ):[9] Teenage gyaru or women who continued with the style even after having children. BBC News states: "Gal-mama are young mothers who refuse to shed their gal-ness."[10] They also would clothe their children in the same style. Meaning a boy would look like a gyaruo while girls would look gyaru but the style would depend on the mothers own personal choice of style or which subculture she belonged to.
  • Bibinba (ビビンバ): This look usually includes a lot of gold and jewelry. Similar to b-gal[11]. It was said to be a joke in Egg magazine about this style, and was not a serious style.
  • Neo-gyaru (ネオギャル): The name was coined for gyaru that wanted to revitalize the style during the 2010s during its decline. But when the style reached popularity or even realization that it existed the community of gyaru reacted in a completely different way then what some antiquated, radically and older or more fanatical gyaru were used to; some even shunned the style. But those who were wearing said fashion were not using the same fashion style as before or in its traditional form to wear; from apparel to there makeup. A style which is thought to be created by a previous gyaru model Alisa Ueno 上野アリサ, who owns the Japanese brand 'FIG&VIPER'.[12] It looks more westerner like or even resembling grunge wear[13]. The makeup was also considered dark in terms of lipstick or eyeshadow.
  • Gyaru-Den (ギャル電機): A style of gyaru consisting on reviving gyaru through technology. It takes aspects of the gyaru fashion sub-culture and makes then makes use of technology as a way to revamp the style; The creators of this style have created all of their items themselves; which can be as LED-lights or synthesizers which are used on accessories such as: necklaces, loose socks (ルーズソックス) or different apparel pieces. Kyoko (京子) from Japan and Mao (เหมา) from Thailand who immigrated and went to Japan, has a degree in Engineering; are the creators of this style![14][15]
  • Ishoku Hada Gyaru (異色肌ギャル): mostly named different colored skin or unique skin is a gyaru style that consists of taking ganguro to even higher level than manba or yamanba; a outer-space level. Instead of making your skin colour twice as darker then usual; you instead you face paint or rather physically dip themselves in a colorful paint and you must resemble something out of the earth atmosphere or rather to look like an extraterrestrial, but with the same essential gyaru makeup. The creator of this style is Miyako Akane (あかねみやこ), she states in this ARTE interview [16]: 'I decided to create this style since that this style was created because of the fact that westerns have different hair color and skin color while the Japanese stereotypical features is always of pale clear skin and black hair; so when we want to do this we have to do something drastic. So, by changing our skin color or painting it we get to liberate ourselves; it's like a therapy from makeup, we are allowed to choose our hair color and skin color' also she states that 'There are many mixed marriage children that are subject to a number of prejudices because of their skin color or their hair color; that's why I want to help by saying loud and strong that everyone is allowed to be whom they want to be.' She also stated on a online interview[17] that: 'I decided to create this style based upon by many things apart from gyaru, but also Harajuku fashion and of course the idea of extraterrestrials; of course it is kawaii gyaru (かわいいギャル).' In a Kotaku interview[18] she stated that: 'she has longed for the interesting skin tones you can see in video games, anime, and movies'. This fashion sub-style in gyaru has been promoted in the Egg magazine for gyaru

Clothing Brands

Shibuya 109 Coco*Lulu shop staff who is wearing Amekaji style

[19]

Magazines

Shibuya 109 staff from an Onee-gyaru brand

[21]

Music and Acting

Koda Kumi singing at a Convention in 2005

Music is not necessarily a main hobby within gyaru culture, although Jpop and Eurobeat remixes and were regularly danced to with the dance parapara (パラパラ) of course there were/are popular many Japanese singers were/are casually listened to, mostly during a date or when driving a car.[24] Singers such as Koda Kumi, Namie Amuro and Ayumi Hamasaki are popular both in Japan and overseas, and regarded as inspiration for many gyarus. Other Jpop artist that were considered a must to listen to were LOVE to LOVE, GAL DOLL, Rady[25] and Juliet[26]. Also a music group called LADYMDE often used gyaru models at the time; such as Yuka Kowara (Yunkoro). They also listened to Eastern & Western to rock, rap and all sorts of genres, as long as it fitted the gyaru aesthetic.

Prominent models or members of the gyaru community may also try building a musical career or acting career. Tsubasa Masuwaka (as Milky Bunny)[27][28], Aina Tanaka & Yumachi Takahashi forming the girl group 'SHIBUYA GIRLS'[29], Rina Sakurai having the main protagonist role in her own movie and the Black Diamond members are some of the very few prominent gyaru to have to build a career.[30]

Dancing

A regular pass-time or what used to be; for gyaru is parapara (パラパラ), it is a dance performed mostly with hands and legs going back and forth, from left to right to be precise. It is mostly danced with Eurobeat music. The most infamous parapara song and tagline is "GET WILD & BE SEXY" which was of an infamous eurobeat song of the same name, by the group called CREAM[31]. But they are numerous eurobeat songs which dated since 1980's. So, there is a diverse choice number of songs that can be danced to parapara. There are even deticated channels to parapara on YouTube that are still active to this day[32].

Hobbies

A group of gyaru; probably a gyaru circle.

A common hobby of gyaru was and stil is Purikura (プリクラ); these were photo booths that you could decorate pictures with handwritten, stickers, and also by doing ridiculous or gaudy poses depending on the mood of the picture you or your group were taking. These booths were mostly located in the electronic district of Tokyo, Akihabara; they were the thing to do for gyaru enthusiast and even models participated. These booths was a creative, sometimes hobbyist obsession but also in some ways a way to get yourself recognized for a magazine in Japan; these photobooths would often use or find the pictures you would've made via your social network service, or SNS for the magazine would often make you a Dokumo model[33] which these were often refereed as that by the magazines themselves.

Events and meetings.

A group of gyaru who would often meet each other and hang out would've been called a "gal circle" (ギャルサークル). They were two types of groups: Nagasa (長さ), which were casual groups to hang out with each other, and Ibesa (イベサ), which would plan, host, and have events with each-other. These events would consit of clubbing, karaoké, purikura, and showing of each-others outfits. One of the most famous gyaru groups is Angeleek; whom predominantly wore ganguro but wore the mostly the famous styles that they wore in that circle were manba and yamanba which consisted of at least twelve members. They have been promoted numerous times in Egg magazine and on national Japanese television.

Influence in Manga

A manga that had an impact and was influenced to said fashion was the promptly 'Gals!' graphic novel or what would be called in Japan a manga (マンガ), created by the female Mangaka; Mihona Fujii (藤井みほな); which started publication around 1999; it is a shoujo manga. Now has become yet again now quite renowned in the sub-culture of gyaru!

But there were and are certainly many others using the fashion and creating a protagonist with it. For example, one of them is Peach Girl (ピーチガール) a manga created by Miwa Ueda (上田 美和) and it's publication started in 1997. A more recent one would be Gal Gohan[34] (ギャルごはん), a manga about cooking at school and is also quite shoujo as well.

See also

gyaru at Shibuya crossing going towards Shibuya109

References

  1. ^ "Past and present photos of Japanese fashion models make us wonder, where have all the gyaru gone?". SoraNews24 -Japan News-. 2015-03-30. Retrieved 2019-07-16.
  2. ^ Hime Hime Star (2015-02-12), Beginner Guide to Gyaru: History of Gal, retrieved 2019-07-16
  3. ^ Mitsu (2015-01-03). "The Fall of Gyaru an easy target and masking the problems with Japan teen fashion". universal-doll.com. Retrieved 2019-07-16.
  4. ^ "SNS and it's impact on Gyaru". {{cite web}}: Cite has empty unknown parameter: |dead-url= (help)
  5. ^ "Part of this essay on gyaru discusses it's harlotry". {{cite web}}: Cite has empty unknown parameter: |dead-url= (help)
  6. ^ "A blog post about the possible & inevitable decline". {{cite web}}: Cite has empty unknown parameter: |dead-url= (help)
  7. ^ "The History of the Gyaru - Part One" NéoJaponisme, Retrieved February 28 2012
  8. ^ "New Manba (2004-officially... | What is Gyaru?". web.archive.org. 2016-07-03. Retrieved 2019-08-30.
  9. ^ "葉酸サプリおすすめランキング". 葉酸サプリメント. Retrieved 9 January 2016.
  10. ^ Oi, Mariko (29 August 2012). "Japan harnesses fashion power of gals". BBC News.
  11. ^ "B-Gyaru image references". {{cite web}}: Cite has empty unknown parameter: |dead-url= (help)
  12. ^ "A blog discussing the brand during it's creation". {{cite web}}: Cite has empty unknown parameter: |dead-url= (help)
  13. ^ "A foreign gyaru and her reaction to Neo-gal". {{cite web}}: Cite has empty unknown parameter: |dead-url= (help)
  14. ^ Keeping Gyaru alive with technology Gyaru-tech Galden
  15. ^ Fashion & Technology in Japan by Kawaii.i from NHK
  16. ^ "ARTE - TRACKS, ishoku hada gyaru short documentary (french)". {{cite web}}: Cite has empty unknown parameter: |dead-url= (help)
  17. ^ "Interview with ishoku hada gyaru creator Miyako - TokyoGirlsUpdate". {{cite web}}: Cite has empty unknown parameter: |dead-url= (help)
  18. ^ Ashcraft, Brian. "Body Paint Makes For Colorful Japanese Fashion". Kotaku. Retrieved 2019-08-24.
  19. ^ http://universal-doll.com/2013/05/gyaru-university-japanese-gyaru-clothing-brands/, Retrieved May 7, 2013
  20. ^ "WCJAPAN". wc-japan.com. Retrieved 2019-08-31.
  21. ^ http://universal-doll.com/2013/03/gyaru-magazine-encyclopedia/, Retrieved March 11, 2013
  22. ^ Koakuma Ageha#Sister magazines
  23. ^ "AneAgeha twitter". {{cite web}}: Cite has empty unknown parameter: |dead-url= (help)
  24. ^ "ギャル、彼と音楽を聴く時は". excite.co.jp. Retrieved 9 January 2016.
  25. ^ zipang-create Music company that produced said music.
  26. ^ Whom were produced at the time by Universal Music Japan
  27. ^ "(Text in Japanese)益若つばさますわかつばさ/Tsubasa Masuwaka's Artist Milky Bunny Discography",Oricon
  28. ^ (text in Japanese)Oricon Style, Retrieved 2015-09-13. July 13, 2011
  29. ^ "Yumashi & Aina Gathering the Girls of Shibuya and Become the Producers of this Large Group"MUSICJapanplus
  30. ^ "(Text in Japanese)強め"黒肌"ギャルの全国ユニット/BlackDiamond gyarusa website", 強め"黒肌"ギャルの全国ユニット/BlackDiamond group
  31. ^ "Eurobeat song from CREAM GETWILD&BESEXY". {{cite web}}: Cite has empty unknown parameter: |dead-url= (help)
  32. ^ "パラパラ遊楽町@香港". YouTube. Retrieved 2019-08-30.
  33. ^ "Dokumo modeling". {{cite web}}: Cite has empty unknown parameter: |dead-url= (help)
  34. ^ "Gal Gohan on the website My anime list". {{cite web}}: Cite has empty unknown parameter: |dead-url= (help)
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