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Tadeusz Piotrowski (mountaineer)

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Tadeusz Piotrowski
Personal information
Born(1940-01-01)1 January 1940 [1]
Kołki, Volhynia, Poland[2]
Died10 July 1986(1986-07-10) (aged 46)
K2, Karakoram, Pakistan
Occupation(s)rock climber, mountaineer, writer
Climbing career
Known forFirst ascent of the south face of K2, 1986
First ascents

Tadeusz Piotrowski (January 1, 1940 – July 10, 1986)[2] was a Polish mountaineer and author of several books related to the subject. He has been referred to as "perhaps the finest winter mountaineer of his day".[3]

Career

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Piotrowski began his career in the 1960s in Poland's Tatra Mountains, around the time when he was a student at the Szczecin University of Technology. He would go on to become one of the leading Polish mountaineers, known worldwide as a winter climbing specialist. He was one of the earliest mountaineers to specialize in winter climbing.[2]

His best known climbs, usually first along the given path, and most of them in winter, include: Trollryggen, Norway in winter 1972, Noshaq, Afghanistan in winter 1973,[4] Trollryggen, Norway in winter 1974, Trollryggen, Norway in winter 1977, Tirich Mir, Pakistan in 1978, Rakaposhi, Pakistan in 1979,[5] Distaghil Sar, Pakistan in 1980,[6] Api, Nepal in winter 1983[7] and K2 in China/Pakistan in summer 1986.[8]

In 1974, his climbing companion, Stanisław Latałło [pl], died on Lhotse;[9] whether Piotrowski could have helped him caused some controversy among Polish mountaineers.[10] In 1983, Piotrowski directed the winter ascent on Api (7132 meters above sea level), and reached its peak on Christmas Eve. He was accompanied by Andrzej Bieluń [pl], who climbed at the head, and was lost, assumed dead near the top of the mountain.[7]

Piotrowski died on 10 July 1986. Two days previously he and Jerzy Kukuczka had finished the first ascent of the South Face of K2 (also called the "Polish Line") - a very difficult and dangerous route which was threatened by seracs and had been called "suicidal" by Reinhold Messner.[11] "The route is so avalanche-prone, that no one else has ever considered a new attempt."[12][8] It was during the descent by a classic route (the Abruzzi Spur) that he lost both his crampons and fell to his death at around 7900 meters, following two exhausting stopovers at the wall with no food or water.[13] The route Piotrowski and Kukuczka climbed remains unrepeated.[a]

For his mountaineering successes, Tadeusz Piotrowski became a four-time recipient of the highest sports medal in Poland, the Gold Medal for the Exceptional Sporting Achievements.

See also

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Notes

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a ^ In 1993 a Canadian team (Barry Blanchard, Troy Kirwan and Peter Arbic) made a partial repeat, but exited onto the Abruzzi Spur at a lower point than the Poles had done, and did not reach the summit.[14]

References

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Inline
  1. ^ "Tadeusz Piotrowski – Wikidata". Wikidata. Retrieved 26 June 2024.
  2. ^ a b c "Tadeusz Piotrowski - Szczecinian, Himalayan mountaineer, writer, photographer - meeting with Danuta Piotrowska". West Pomerania. Archived from the original on 2024-06-26. Retrieved 25 June 2024.
  3. ^ Kevin Fedarko, The Mountain of Mountains, p.3, Outside Magazine November 2003
  4. ^ "Asia, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier Area, Noshaq, First Winter Ascent". American Alpine Club. 1974.
  5. ^ Nyka, Józef (1980). "Rakaposhi, Second Ascent by New Route, Northwest and Southwest Ridges". Climbs And Expeditions. American Alpine Journal. New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club. Retrieved 2017-10-08.
  6. ^ Kurczab, Janusz (13 July 2010). "The history of Polish climbing – Karakorum. Cz.I (1969-1980)". wspinanie.pl. Retrieved 11 June 2024.
  7. ^ a b Piotrowski, Tadeusz (1985). "The Winter Expedition to Api". Himalayan Journal. #41: 55–60. Retrieved 25 June 2024.
  8. ^ a b Kukuczka, Jerzy. "K2's South Face - AAC Publications - Search The American Alpine Journal and Accidents". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 16 February 2017.
  9. ^ Zawada, Andrzej (1977). "Winter at 8250 m: Polish Expedition to Lhotse 1974" (PDF). Alpine Journal. #82 (326): 28–35. ISBN 978-0900523212. ISSN 0065-6569. Retrieved 25 June 2024.
  10. ^ (in Polish) Ryszard Szafirski, Andrzej Skupiński, Andrzej Zawada Był Wspaniały i Dumny, Zwoje 5 (25) / 2000
  11. ^ R. Messner and A. Gogna [1981] (1982) K2 Mountain of Mountains. Translated from German by A. Salked. Oxford University Press. ISBN 0-19-520253-8
  12. ^ "AdventureStats Special: The unclimbed faces of K2" K2 Climb Net, ExplorersWeb Inc., undated, retrieved on 2008-09-18.
  13. ^ Greg Child and Jon Krakauer, The Dangerous Summer Archived 2009-04-16 at the Wayback Machine, Outside Magazine, March 1987.
  14. ^ See Curran, Jim (1995). K2: The Story of the Savage Mountain. Hodder & Stoughton. pp. 220–221. ISBN 978-0-340-66007-2.
General

Bibliography

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