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Thom Browne

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Thom Browne
Born (1965-09-27) September 27, 1965 (age 59)
Allentown, Pennsylvania, U.S.
Alma materUniversity of Notre Dame
OccupationFashion designer
LabelThom Browne
PartnerAndrew Bolton
Websitethombrowne.com

Thom Browne (born September 27, 1965) is an American fashion designer. He is the founder and head of design for Thom Browne, a luxury fashion brand based in New York City. Browne debuted his womenswear collection in 2014.[1][2]

In 2023, Browne became the chairman of the Council of Fashion Designers of America,[3] succeeding Tom Ford.[4]

Early life and education

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Thom Browne was born into an Irish-Italian family[5] in Allentown, Pennsylvania on September 27, 1965.[6] He went to Catholic school until the seventh grade and served as an altar boy.[5] Subsequently, he graduated from William Allen High School in Allentown and attended the University of Notre Dame, where he was a member of the track and field team and graduated with a degree in economics.

Early career

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Michelle Obama (center) at Barack Obama's second inauguration, wearing a Browne silk jacquard coat and dress in a navy checked pattern based on "a men’s necktie fabric"[7]
Thom Browne Sunglasses from his eyewear collection

In an attempt at an acting career, Browne lived in Los Angeles from 1992 to 1998.[8] Born as Tom, he added the “H” because his name was taken by someone else in the Screen Actors Guild.[9] He also worked as a production assistant and script reader on films.[10][5]

Browne started making custom suits after befriending Johnson Hartig, who went on to found the brand Libertine.[9] He moved to New York City in 1997, where he began working as a salesman at Armani's wholesale showroom.[5] Club Monaco, then a Polo Ralph Lauren brand, later selected him to lead its creative development team, where he worked with American fashion designer Ralph Lauren. Browne led Club Monaco's design department for several years before launching the Thom Browne label.

Thom Browne

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History

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Browne started his eponymous business with made-to-measure suits in 2001,[11] with its first shop in New York's West Village.[9]

Thom Browne's breakthrough is considered to be his reimagining of the suit, shrinking the proportions and cutting the fit closer to the body, encapsulated by his signature grey suit.[11] His preferred fabric is Super 120’s wool twill in “medium gray.”[5] Every Thom Browne piece includes a red-white-and-blue striped grosgrain ribbon.[5]

Between 2001 and 2015, Browne produced his suits and runway looks with Rocco Ciccarelli.[9][5] He introduced a limited ready-to-wear collection in 2003. In 2005, the brand held its first menswear runway show in New York City.[5]

The brand's first external investor, Japan’s Stripe International (formerly Cross),[12] gave the company the capital it needed to recover from the 2007–2008 financial crisis, before selling its stake on to Sandbridge Capital – a private equity firm whose advisors included Tommy Hilfiger, Domenico De Sole and Dominique de Villepin –[13][12] in 2016.[11] At that time, the business was believed to have annual sales of more than $60 million.[12]

Since 2010, Thom Browne has primarily shown his men’s collections in Paris.[9] After selling a women’s wear capsule collection at Barneys New York for a couple of seasons in 2007 and 2008,[14] the brand launched its women’s wear line in 2011; by 2021, it comprised nearly half the company’s revenue.[9]

In August 2018, Zegna purchased 85 percent of the brand for $500 million, which was seen as a bid by the century-old Italian company to court a younger demographic and reach new markets;[15][16] two years later, it increased its share to 90 percent.[11] Browne continues to hold the remaining ownership stake in the brand and has continued as its chief creative officer.[16] Rodrigo Bazan remains the company's chief executive officer.[16]

In 2023, Thom Browne debuted its first couture collection[17] at Paris Fashion Week.[18]

Browne has produced four films that accompanied his collections, including the spring 2007 short “The Septemberists” (in collaboration with Anthony Goicolea); a 10-minute black-and-white film starring skier Lindsey Vonn for his fall 2021 women’s collection; and the 29-minute “Looking Forward to Tomorrow” depicting the loneliness of marathon training for his spring 2022 men’s collection.[8]

Thom Grey

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In a move designed to appeal to younger customers, Thom Browne launched a men’s capsule collection for fall 2012 called Thom Grey that was offered at a lower price than his signature line.[19] Thom Grey was a one-year-only project and was subsequently discontinued.[20]

Other activities

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Thom Browne launched its first eyewear collection with Dita Eyewear in 2011.[21] The brand brought its sunglasses business in-house in 2022.[11]

Also since 2011, the brand has been designing swimwear.[22]

The brand's childrenswear range was launched in 2021.[11] The childrenswear line was initially also licensed, but the company internalized that division, too.[23]

Collaborations

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In September 2006, Brooks Brothers announced its partnership with Browne as part of a guest designer program to create and distribute a 50-piece men's and women's high-end collection, Black Fleece by Brooks Brothers.[1] Claudio Del Vecchio, chairman and chief executive officer of Brooks Brothers, said "Thom Browne's brilliant eye... his ability to foreshadow the market and offer a special look will bring a new dimension to Brooks Brothers."[24]

The line appeared exclusively in 30 Brooks Brothers stores worldwide beginning in September 2007. In July 2008, Thom Browne and Brooks Brothers announced they would continue their partnership in the Black Fleece collection for another three years. Brooks Brothers opened a standalone Black Fleece store located in New York City's West Village.[25]

In 2008, Browne teamed up with the Italian sportswear company and down apparel specialist Moncler to design their men's top line Moncler Gamme Bleu, which launched in January 2009.[1][26] The line was shown at Milan Fashion Week.

In September 2020, Browne made a scarf[27] as part of Joe Biden's "Believe in Better" fashion collection, which included collaborations from 18 other fashion designers around the country as part of the Biden's 2020 presidential campaign.[28] His scarf, along with the rest of the collection, was made in unionized factories and is available for purchase; all purchase proceeds were donated to Biden's presidential campaign.

Style and themes

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Browne's style and themes revolve around blending traditional menswear with avant-garde elements.[29] His designs are both classic and subversive, rooted in the gray suit but transformed into fashion statements through unconventional cuts, proportions, and androgynous detailing.[30] Browne frequently explores the concept of the "uniform," with his collections adhering to a strict aesthetic code while allowing for personal expression within the structure.[31] He creates a cohesive identity across his brand but emphasizing the duality of uniformity.[32]

Marketing

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Thom Browne has dressed teams including the Cleveland Cavaliers and FC Barcelona.[11] In 2018, LeBron James led the entire Cleveland Cavaliers team during the NBA playoffs in coordinated gray Thom Browne suits.[4]

Awards and honors

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Thom Browne long used a three-bar design on its clothing, only changing it to the four-stripe design after Adidas objected in 2007.[37] Adidas sued Thom Browne's brand in 2021, claiming Thom Browne's four-bar and "Grosgrain" stripe patterns on its shoes and high-end activewear violated its three-stripe trademark rights.[38] A jury determined in 2023 that the Thom Browne designs were not likely to cause customer confusion with Adidas' products and did not violate the company's trademark rights.[38]

Personal life

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Browne lives with partner Andrew Bolton,[39] who is curator at the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in Manhattan.[40] His older brother, Pat Browne, is a former member of the Pennsylvania State Senate and Secretary of the Pennsylvania Department of Revenue.

In 2019, Browne and Bolton purchased and renovated a 7,000-square-foot, 15-room Sutton Place mansion formerly owned by the philanthropist Drue Heinz.[9][41]

See also

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References

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  1. ^ a b c "Thom Browne Branching Out". WWD. 20 November 2013. Archived from the original on 8 May 2014. Retrieved 21 November 2013.
  2. ^ "Kempt Woman: Thom Browne's Debutante Debut". The FADER. Archived from the original on 2014-04-07.
  3. ^ Vanessa Friedman (15 February 2023), The Prince of New York New York Times.
  4. ^ a b Nathan Heller (11 October 2022), After A Stellar Paris Show, What's Next For Thom Browne? Heading Up The CFDA Vogue.
  5. ^ a b c d e f g h Rachel Syme (18 September 2023), The Suitor The New Yorker.
  6. ^ "Ensemble, spring/summer 2016 Thom Browne". The Met. Archived from the original on 25 August 2019. Retrieved 25 August 2019.
  7. ^ Wilson, Eric (January 21, 2013). "A Fashion First for the Designer Thom Browne at the Inauguration". The New York Times. Archived from the original on October 11, 2018. Retrieved March 26, 2013.
  8. ^ a b Booth Moore (3 April 2024), Thom Browne Is in an L.A. State of Mind Women's Wear Daily.
  9. ^ a b c d e f g Kurt Soller (4 March 2022), How Thom Browne Turned the Gray Flannel Suit Into Something Subversive T: The New York Times Style Magazine.
  10. ^ Jessica Iredale (9 September 2015), Thom Browne Prefers to Be Seen, Not Heard Women's Wear Daily.
  11. ^ a b c d e f g Adrienne Klasa (18 May 2023), Thom Browne reimagined the suit — now he’s thinking bigger Financial Times.
  12. ^ a b c Jean E. Palmieri (21 March 2017), Thom Browne: The Master Showman Women's Wear Daily.
  13. ^ Giulia Segreti (28 August 2018), Italian tailor Ermenegildo Zegna acquires Thom Browne Reuters.
  14. ^ Jean Scheidnes (10 June 2010), Thom Browne Branching Into Women’s Women's Wear Daily.
  15. ^ "Ermenegildo Zegna buys Thom Browne". The Hollywood Reporter. Retrieved August 28, 2018.
  16. ^ a b c Paton, Elizabeth; Friedman, Vanessa (28 August 2018). "Ermenegildo Zegna buys Thom Browne in a bid for Younger Customers". The New York Times. Archived from the original on 28 August 2018. Retrieved August 28, 2018.
  17. ^ Friedman, Vanessa (2023-07-04). "The Gray Suit Takes Center Stage". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Archived from the original on 2023-07-08. Retrieved 2023-07-08.
  18. ^ Sayej, Nadja. "Thom Browne's Debut Couture Show In Paris Felt Very Edgar Allan Poe". Forbes. Archived from the original on 2023-07-08. Retrieved 2023-07-08.
  19. ^ Jean E. Palmieri (16 August 2012), Thom Browne to Launch Capsule Line Women's Wear Daily.
  20. ^ Jean E. Palmieri (20 November 2013), Thom Browne Branching Out Women's Wear Daily.
  21. ^ Venessa Lau (13 June 2011), Thom Browne Signs Eyewear License Women's Wear Daily.
  22. ^ Jean E. Palmieri (9 June 2022), Thom Browne Makes Splash With New Swim Campaign Women's Wear Daily.
  23. ^ Luisa Zargani (19 May 2022), Thom Browne Takes Eyewear Business In-house Women's Wear Daily.
  24. ^ "Is Thom Browne's Brooks Brothers Deal Over?". The Cut. 2008-06-04. Archived from the original on 2023-07-07. Retrieved 2023-07-06.
  25. ^ "Thom Browne and Brooks Brothers Broke Up". GQ. 2015-08-06. Archived from the original on 2023-07-08. Retrieved 2023-07-08.
  26. ^ WWD: Moncler Gamme Bleu Men's RTW Fall 2009 Archived 2009-03-14 at the Wayback Machine (January 19, 2009)
  27. ^ "Thom Browne – Believe In Better Scarf". Team Joe Store. Archived from the original on 2020-09-09. Retrieved 2020-09-09.
  28. ^ Spellings, Sarah (8 September 2020). "Joe Biden's "Believe in Better" Collection Brings Together 19 of America's Top Designers". Vogue. Archived from the original on 2020-09-08. Retrieved 2020-09-09.
  29. ^ Syme, Rachel; Cattelan, Maurizio; Ferrari, Pierpaolo (18 September 2023). "How Thom Browne's Gray Suit Conquered American Fashion". The New Yorker.
  30. ^ "CFDA". cfda.com.
  31. ^ "Thom Browne the career of the American fashion designer always in uniform". www.lofficielibiza.com.
  32. ^ "Thom Browne's Life and His Uniform". Archive. 14 August 2020.
  33. ^ Official site, ABOUT THOM BROWNE Archived 2017-06-06 at the Wayback Machine
  34. ^ Rosemary Feitelberg (28 April 2013), Thom Browne Honored at Pratt Women's Wear Daily.
  35. ^ Jean E. Palmieri (5 June 2017), Thom Browne to Be Honored by FIT Women's Wear Daily.
  36. ^ "Time 100". Time. April 13, 2023. Archived from the original on April 13, 2023. Retrieved April 15, 2023.
  37. ^ Blake Brittain (13 January 2023), Adidas loses N.Y. trial against Thom Browne over three-stripe design Reuters.
  38. ^ a b Sara Merken (3 May 2024), Adidas loses US court bid to revive Thom Browne trademark lawsuit Reuters.
  39. ^ Leland, John (29 April 2016). "How Andrew Bolton of Met Costume Institute Spends His Sundays". The New York Times. Archived from the original on 31 January 2021. Retrieved 21 October 2019.
  40. ^ Yaeger, Lynn (31 August 2013). "Thom Browne's Manhattan Apartment". Architectural Digest. Retrieved 18 May 2016.
  41. ^ Mitchell Owens (1 November 2022), Step Inside Thom Browne and Andrew Bolton’s Storied House on Manhattan’s East Side Architectural Digest.
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