Apsley Falls
Giant waterfall and gorge – that sums Apsley Falls in Oxley Wild Rivers National Park – a mid-sized precinct centring around the falls of its same name in the eastern New England region of New South Wales. Although it is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park, it has no direct connection to any other part of the park – via car or foot – and in practice, is a park of its own.
Understand
History
Apsley had significance even thousands of years ago; the story of how the Rainbow Serpent created the Apsley Falls in the Dreamtime holds immense cultural significance. According to the tale, the Rainbow Serpent travelled underground from the base of the falls, reemerging 20 km upstream at Mill Hole on the Apsley River in Walcha. This site is marked with a mosaic of the Rainbow Serpent, created with the help of the local Indigenous community.
Beyond its cultural significance as a meeting place for Aboriginal people, the area also has a history tied to European exploration. On September 13, 1818, John Oxley passed by the falls, naming them Bathurst Falls. He described them as "one of the most magnificent waterfalls we have seen." Oxley also named nearby the Apsley River.
In 1902, three men built a wooden staircase that cross-crossed from the top of the gorge to the base of the falls. The timber for this risky and labour-intensive project was hand-cut using only axes and adzes. The original staircase was in use until 1932, when it was declared unsafe and partially dismantled. This marked the start of tourism to the falls.
Years later, after the wooden stairs had deteriorated, the Walcha Lions Club undertook the major task of building a steel staircase and halfway lookout. The local council supplied all the materials, and club members dedicated over 1,700 hours to complete the project before opening in October 1961.
Today Apsley Falls primarily remains as a stopover point for travellers driving along the Oxley Highway, which is particular popular with motorcylists. However, the nature of Oxley Highway and the fact that it sees very little use by car drivers and road trippers due to its obscure location means the park is often very quiet at most times of the day – if you visit on a weekday outside the holiday season, chances are you will be the only one in the park. It sees considerably fewer visitors compared to its similar counterparts such as Dorrigo or Ebor along Waterfall Way.
As part of being part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park, which is in the Hastings-Macleay Group of Gondwana Rainforests of Australia, Apsley Falls is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Landscape
The steep walls of the upper Apsley Gorge are mainly caused by the vertical splitting of slate in the area.
Flora and fauna
Around the gorge, you'll find forest vegetation with only a light undergrowth of shrubs. Some of the common plants include brambles, boomerang wattle (Acacia amoena), silver wattle (Acacia dealbata), fern-leaved wattle (Acacia filicifolia), and green briars. There are also tea trees, broad-leaved stringybark (Eucalyptus caliginosa), ribbon gum (Eucalyptus viminalis), narrow-leaved black peppermint (Eucalyptus nicholii), forest red gum, yellow box (Eucalyptus melliodora), hyacinth orchids (Dipodium punctatum), gorge hakea (Hakea fraseri), native broom (Jacksonia scoparia), and daisy shrubs.
The area is great for spotting wildlife. You might see bald eagles soaring on the thermals, kangaroos hopping around, colourful parrots like crimson rosellas, echidnas (also called spiny anteaters), and wallabies.
Climate
Visitor information
Get in
The park is only accessible by car, but can be reached by 2WD all-year as all the park's roads are sealed.
Walcha is the closest town to the park – from Walcha, head 19 km east from the intersection between Thunderbolts Way and Oxley Highway. There will be signs indicating the approach to Apsley Falls around 1–2 km before the turnoff onto Apsley Falls Road. Pay extra attention as the approach can come rather quickly as you'll be travelling 110 km/h between the two. The same applies travelling west from Wauchope, except the park is 144 km west of Wauchope and it takes 2 hours from the east.
Once you have turned onto Apsley Falls Road, continue on the sealed road for a few hundred metres and parking will appear to your left. Parking is also available close to Apsley Falls itself.
Fees and permits
Apsley Falls is in Oxley Wild Rivers National Park, which is not a fee-collecting park – meaning no fee required other than camping fees (if you're camping).
Get around
The core part of the park is no greater than 3 km across by foot; you can get around most of the park by foot, though from the campground you do have the option to drive a few hundred metres to get closer to the falls and both walking trails.
All roads in the park are strictly 40 km/h.
See and do
Everything in this section of the park is either on two walks, Gorge Rim Track (coloured on map) or Oxley Walk (coloured on map). Gorge Rim Circuit is the shorter of the two walks; if you're short on time, the shorter walk has most of the important sights, but Oxley is well worth a walk if you have the extra time.
Gorge Rim Circuit
The Gorge Rim Circuit is a 1.2-km loop trail, very easy and good if you're travelling with children who don't want to walk long distances. It should take no more than 30 minutes to complete, even with stops at all of the lookouts. The track also makes a spur to the campground; this part can be safely skipped if you aren't camping.
Starting clockwise from the picnic area, the lookouts on this circuit are as follows:
- Apsley Main Falls Lookout (McMillan Lookout).
- Lower Pool Lookout.
- Landslide Lookout.
- Lions Lookout.
Oxley Walk
Buy
There are no shops in Apsley Falls – bring your own supplies. If you forget, very basic/essential supplies can be purchased at nearby Walcha.
Eat
You will need to bring your own food. A picnic area, 1 Apsley Falls picnic area, near the suspension bridge, is a good place to bring the food you brought. However, keep in mind that picnic area only conssts of a single picnic bench and a single BBQ area. Although it is seldom used due to the low number of visitors, you'd be out of luck if it were in use. No bins are provided; please take your rubbish home.
Drink
Although water is available, it is non-potable and you are better off bringing your own water (or purchasing it from a supermarket in nearby Walcha). If you do use the water here, make sure to boil it for at least 10 minutes before consuming it.
Sleep
The precinct only has one campground, which is the only place you may sleep within the park.
- 1 Apsley Falls Campground, Apsley Falls Camping Area Rd. Contains 14 campsites, all of which are marked. The campsite also has additional exclusive picnic tables and barbecue facilities in addition to the park's only toilets.
Stay safe
Go next
| Coonabarabran ← Walcha ← | W B56 E | → Cottan-Bimbang National Park → Port Macquarie |