Wikipedia

List of grade milestones in rock climbing

In rock-climbing, a first free ascent (FFA) is the first redpoint, onsight or flash of a single-pitch, multi-pitch (or big wall), or boulder climbing route that did not involve using aid equipment to help progression or resting; the ascent must therefore be performed in either a sport, a traditional, or a free solo manner. First-free-ascents that set new grade milestones are important events in rock climbing history, and are listed below. While sport climbing has dominated absolute-grade milestones since the mid-1980s (i.e. are now the highest grades), milestones for modern traditional climbing, free solo climbing, onsighted, and flashed ascents, are also listed.

Wolfgang Güllich set new "hardest-ever routes" multiple times

A route's grade is provisional until enough climbers have repeated the route to have a "consensus". At the highest grades, this can take years as few climbers are capable of repeating these routes. For example, in 2001, Realization was considered the world's first 9a+ (5.15a), however, the first repeat of the 1996 route Open Air [de], which only happened in 2008, suggested that it was possibly the first 9a+ (5.15a). Open Air has had no further repeats, and has had holds broken since 1996, whereas Realization has had many ascents and is thus a "consensus" 9a+. Therefore, where known, the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th ranked candidates are also chronicled.[1][2]

As of October 2024, the hardest single-pitch redpoint was at the grade of 9c (5.15d) for men and 9b (5.15b) for women. The hardest onsight was at the grade of 9a (5.14d) for men and 8c (5.14b) for women. The hardest boulder solved was at the boulder grade of V17 (9A) for men and V15/V16 (8C/8C+)  for women. The hardest multi-pitch (or big wall) redpoint was at the grade of 9a+ (5.15a). The hardest single-pitch free solo was at the grade of 8c (5.14b), and the hardest multi-pitch (or big wall) free solo was at 7c+ (5.13a).

Single-pitch routes

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Redpointed by men

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9c (5.15d):[a]

 
Adam Ondra on Silence
  • Silence – Flatanger Municipality (NOR) – September 3, 2017 – First ascent by Adam Ondra, who described it as "much harder than anything else" he had previously done, and cautiously suggested the 9c rating for the 45 m route.[5][6] Remains unrepeated (August 2024).
  • DNA [de] – Verdon Gorge (FRA) – April 29, 2022 – First ascent by Sébastien Bouin who proposed the grade of 9c, saying "Comparing this route to Bibliographie, Move, Beyond [Integral], it seems a step ahead", and "To choose 9c is to take a risk". Remains unrepeated (August 2024).[7]
  • B.I.G. (also Project Big) – Flatanger Municipality (NOR) – September 20, 2023 – First ascent by Jakob Schubert, who worked on the route with Adam Ondra, and after consulting with Ondra, proposed 9c on the basis it was "definitely harder" than Perfecto Mundo, a "benchmark" 9b+. Remains unrepeated (August 2024).[8]

9b+ (5.15c):[b]

9b (5.15b):[c][d][e][f]

9a+ (5.15a):[g][h]

9a (5.14d):

 
Alex Megos on Action Directe

8c+ (5.14c):

8c (5.14b):[i]

8b+ (5.14a):[j]

 
Climber nearing the top of Punks in the Gym 32 8b+ (5.14a)

8b (5.13d):[k]

8a+ (5.13c)[l]

Pre-sport era

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Many of the notable first ascents that achieved a new highest grade prior to The Face are traditional climbing routes:

8a (5.13b)[m]

  • Grand Illusion – Sugar Loaf, Lake Tahoe, CA (US) – 1979 – First-ever consensus 8a (5.13b) in history, by Tony Yaniro.[10][37]
  • Cosmic Debris – Yosemite Valley, CA (US) – May, 1980 – Early 8a led by Bill Price.[49]
  • Sphinx Crack – South Platte, CO (US) – April, 1981 – Early 8a led by Steve Hong.[50]
  • 13 Boulevard du Vol – Rochers de Freyr, (BEL) – 1981 – Early consensus 8a (5.13b), by Arnould t'Kint.[10][37]
  • Grand Illusion – Sugar Loaf, Lake Tahoe, CA (US) – 1982 – Early consensus 8a (5.13b), by Wolfgang Güllich.[37]
  • La Crépinette – Les Eaux-Claires (FRA) – 1983 – Early consensus 8a (5.13b) in history, by Fabrice Guillot (and first 8a in France).[37][51]

7c+ (5.13a)

  • The Phoenix – Yosemite, CA (US) – 1977 – Considered the first-ever consensus 7c+ (5.13a) in history, by Ray Jardine (used his new cams).[52]
  • Le Toit – Baou de Quatre Ouro (FRA) – 1981 – Second-ever consensus 7c+ (5.13a) in history, by Patrick Edlinger.[37]
  • Le Haine – La Turbie (FRA) – March, 1981 – Third-ever consensus 7c+ (5.13a) in history, by Patrick Berhault.[37]
  • Chimpanzodrome – Le Saussois (FRA) – April, 1981 – Fourth-ever consensus 7c+ (5.13a) in history, by Jean-Pierre Bouvier.[37]

7c (5.12d)

  • Psycho Roof – Eldorado, CO (US) – 1975 – Estimated as the first-ever 7c (5.12d) in history, by Steve Wunsch; only one ascent, due to large broken flake, and was possibly harder than 7c in 1975.[53][54]
  • The Pirate – Suicide Rock, CA – (US) – 1978 – Early 7c (5.12d) by Tony Yaniro.[55]
  • Iron Cross – Shawangunks, NY – (US) – 1978 – Early 7c (5.12d) by John Bragg.[56][57]
  • Genesis – Eldorado, CO – (US) – 1979 – Early 7c (5.12d) by Jim Collins.[58][50]
  • Nymphodalle – Les Calanques (FRA) – 1979 – Sometimes considered first-ever consensus 7c (5.12d) in history, by Patrick Edlinger.[37][40]
  • Equinox – Joshua Tree (US) – 1980 – Considered one of the earliest consensus 7c (5.12d) climbs in history, by Tony Yaniro.[37]
  • Chasin' the trane – Frankenjura (GER) – 1980 – Considered one of the earliest consensus 7c (5.12d) climbs in history, by John Bachar.[37]

7b+ (5.12c)

7b (5.12b)

7a+ (5.12a)

 
Thimble, the 1960s
  • Thimble – Needles, SD, (US) – 1961 – First-ever 7a+ (5.12a) in history, by John Gill. Free soloed.[10]
  • Macabre Roof – Ogden, Utah, (US) – 1967 – First-ever roped 7a+ (5.12a) in history, flashed by Greg Lowe.[62][63]
  • Orchrist – Almscliff, (ENG) – July 1973 – Early 7a+ (5.12a) as was graded E5 6b, by Hank Pasquill.[64]
  • The Throne – Shawangunks, NY (US) – 1973 – Very early 7a+ (5.12a) climb, led by John Stannard.[56]
  • Footless Crow – Goat Crag, Borrowdale, (ENG) – April 19, 1974 – Early 7a+ (5.12a) as was graded E5 6b, by Pete Livesey.[64]

7a (5.11d)

Redpointed by women

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9b (5.15b):[n]

9a+ (5.15a):

9a/9a+ :

9a (5.14d):[o][p]

8c+ (5.14c):

8c (5.14b):

8b+ (5.14a):

8b (5.13d):

8a+ (5.13c):

8a (5.13b):

7c+/8a (5.13a/b) :

Pre-sport era

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Many of the notable first female ascents that achieved a new highest grade pre Fleur de Rocaille, are traditional climbing routes:

7c+ (5.13a):

7c (5.12d):

7b+ (5.12c):

7b (5.12b):

7a (5.11d):

6b+ (5.10d/11a):

6a (5.10a):

5a (5.7):



Onsighted / Flashed by men

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With route beta on the internet, the distinction between an onsight (no prior beta) and a flash (had prior beta) is less relevant; it is recorded where noted.

9a+ (5.15a):

  • Super Crackinette – Saint Léger (FRA) – 10 February 2018 – First-ever 9a+ flash (not onsight) in history, by Adam Ondra.[95]

9a (5.14d):

  • Southern Smoke Direct – Red River Gorge (USA) – 29 October 2012 – First-ever 9a flash (not onsight), by Adam Ondra.[96][97]
  • Estado Critico – Siurana (ESP) – 24 March 2013 – First-ever 9a onsight, by Alex Megos.[98]
  • Cabane au Canada – Rawyl (SUI) – 9 July 2013 – Second-ever 9a onsight, by Adam Ondra.[99]
  • Il Domani – Baltzola (ESP) – 3 May 2014 – Third-ever 9a onsight, by Adam Ondra.[100]
  • Water World – Pajkova Streha (SLO) – November 2022 – Fourth-ever 9a onsight, by Adam Ondra.[101]

8c+ (5.14c):

8c (5.14b):

8b+ (5.14a):

8b (5.13d):

  • Liaisons Dangereuses – Les Calanques (Les Goudes), (FRA) – 1993 – First-ever 8b onsight, by Elie Chevieux [de][10]
  • Public Enemy – Cuenca, (ESP) – 1993 – Originally considered the first 8a+/8b onsight, by Stefan Glowacz, but consensus grade is now 8b.[103]

8a+ (5.13c):

(unknown)

8a (5.13b):

7c+ (5.13a):

7c (5.12d):

7b+ (5.12c):

Onsighted / Flashed by women

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With route beta on the internet, the distinction between an onsight (no prior beta) and a flash (had prior beta) is less relevant; it is recorded where noted.

8c (5.14b):[q]

8b+ (5.14a):[r][s]

8b (5.13d):

8a+ (5.13c):

8a (5.13b):

7b (5.12b):

  • Trojan – Mount Arapiles, Victoria (AUS) – 1981 – Onsight lead at grade 25 (5.12b) by Louise Shepherd.[90]

7a+ (5.12a):

6c+ (5.11b/c):

  • Kloeberdanz – Eldorado Canyon, CO (US) – 1977 – Onsight lead at 5.11c by Coral Bowman.[124]
  • Vulcan – Tremadog, (WAL) – 1980 – Onsight lead at E4 6a by Jill Lawrence.[94]

6c (5.11a/b):

  • Wide Country (first pitch) – Eldorado Canyon CO (US) – June 1973 – Early female onsight at 5.11a by Diana Hunter.[125][54][124][50]
  • Valhalla – Suicide Rock CA (US) – 1976 – Early female onsight at 5.11a by Maria Cranor.[126]
  • Naked Edge (first pitch) – Eldorado Canyon CO (US) – October 1976 – Onsight lead at 5.11a by Beth Bennett.[124]


Free-solo by men

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Important free-solos, all were rehearsed except as noted; does not include "highball" boulder ascents as the climbers here did not use padding or spotters.[127]

8c (5.14b):

  • Panem et Circenses – Length: 15 metres (49 ft) – Arco (IT) – March 2021 – First-ever 8c free solo, by Alfredo Webber, aged 52.[128]

8b+ (5.14a):

8b (5.13d):

8a+ (5.13c):

8a (5.13b):

7c (5.12d)

7b (5.12b)

7a+ (5.12a)

  • Thimble – Length: 9 meters – Needles, SD, (US) – 1961 – First ascent and first-ever 7a+ free solo in history (and first-ever redpoint, see above), flashed by John Gill.[10][132]

7a (5.11d):

  • Spider Line – Length: 16 meters – Joshua Tree National Park, CA, (US) – February 1978 – First lead (free solo) and first free solo at 5.11d by John Yablonski.[133][134]

6c+ (5.11b/c):

  • Wall of Horrors – Length: 18 meters – Almscliff, (ENG) – 1961 – First lead (free solo) and first free solo at E3 6a by Allan Austin.[135]
  • Slip N Slide – Length: 8 meters – Peak District, (ENG) – 1976 – First lead (free solo) and first free solo at E6 6a by Ron Fawcett.[136]

6c (5.11a/b):

  • Western Front – Length: 13 meters – Almscliff, (ENG) – 1958 – First ascent, unrehearsed, now rated E3 5c, by Allan Austin.[64][135]

6b+ (5.10d/11a):

  • Left Wall – Length: 38 meters – Llanberis Pass, (ENG) – 1964 – First free ascent (free solo) rated E2 5c, by Rowland Edwards.[137]

6a+ (5.10b):

  • Sometime Crack – Length: 15 meters – Devil's Lake, WI, (US) – 1959 – Onsight first ascent by John Gill.[50]

6a (5.10a):

  • Cave Arete Indirect – Length: 18 meters – Laddow Rocks, (ENG) – 1916 – Free solo first ascent by Ivar Berg.[138]

Boulder problems

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Solved by men

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9A (V17):[t][u]

  • Alphane – Chironico (SUI) – April 6, 2022 – First ascent by Shawn Raboutou,[141][147] and first repeat by Aidan Roberts (October 2022); Roberts was silent on the grade having never climbed at V17, and having previously failed on Burden of Dreams.[148] William Bosi made a second repeat in November 2022, and after feeling that it was less of a challenge than his FA of Honey Badger 8C+, later felt it was still at 9A (V17).[149]

8C+ (V16):[v]

 
Christian Core on Gioia [fr]
  • Gioia [fr] – Varazze (ITA) – 2008 – Considered the first-ever 8C+ (V16), by Christian Core.[152] First repeat in 2011 by Adam Ondra who proposed an 8C+ grade, describing the boulder as one of the hardest in the world, together with Terranova (see below).[153] Third ascent by Nalle Hukkataival in 2014, and Niccolo Ceria in 2020, who were silent on grade.[154][155] In 2015, it was discovered that new holds were chipped on the route, which Core tried to fix but not with complete success, leaving one new crimp that Core felt does lower the grade.[152] In 2021, a fifth repeat by Elias Lagnemma suggested a slightly lower grade of 8C/+ (using a kneepad).[142][156]

8C (V15):[w][x]

8B+ (V14):[y]

 
Dreamtime in Switzerland

8B (V13):

8A+ (V12):[z]

8A (V11):

7C+ (V10):

7C (V9):

  • Red Cross Overhang, or Gill Problem – Teton Range (US) – 1959 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a 7C (V9), by John Gill.[10][169]
  • Double Clutch – Flagstaff Mountain, Boulder, CO (US) – 1972 – Very early 7c (V8-V9) by Bob Williams.[175]
  • Speed of Light Dyno – Black Mountains (US) – 1979 – Considered an important early ascent of a 7C (V9), by John Long.[10]
  • L'Abbé Résina – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1983 – Considered an important early ascent of a 7C (V9), by Pierre Richard.[169]
 
Climber on Midnight Lightning

7B+ (V8):

7B (V8):

7A (V6):

6A (V3):

Solved by women

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8C/8C+ (V15/16) :

8C (V15):

8B+ (V14):

8B (V13):[aa]

8A+ (V12):

8A (V11):

7C+/8A :

7C+ (V10):

7C (V9):

7B+ (V8):

Multi-pitch routes

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Given the smaller number of entries for multi-pitch and big wall routes, the sections below combine milestones for overall and female ascents. In some cases (e.g. the Salathé Wall and Dawn Wall), the first free ascent was by a climbing pair alternating leads, and in such instances, the first individual to free climb all the pitches is also recorded.

Redpointed

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9a+ (5.15a):

9a (5.14d):

  • Wu Wei (180-metres, 5-pitches) – Picco delle Aquile, Dolomites (ITA) – 16 August 2023 – Second-ever multi-pitch redpoint at 9a (5.14d), by Alessandro Zeni.[194][198]

8c+ (5.14c):

  • Nirwana (200-metres, 5-pitches) – Sonnwendwand, (AUT) – 9 September 2012 – Second-ever multi-pitch redpoint at at 8c+ (5.14c), by Alexander Huber.[194][200][201]

8c (5.14b):

 
Climbers on the roof of Pan Aroma (and Bellavista) 8c (5.14b) on the Cima Ovest in the Dolomites.
  • Bellavista [it] (500-metres, 10-pitches) – Cima Ovest, Dolomites (ITA) – 18 July 2001 – First-ever big wall redpoint at 8c (5.14b), by Alexander Huber;[194][202] repeating the route in 2007 (to create Pan Aroma, also 8c), Huber found some key holds were "treated" from a 2005 attempt, and the crux was heavily lined with pegs, which had softened the grade to 8b/8b+.[203][204]

8b+ (5.14a):

  • The Nose (870-metres, 31-pitches) – El Capitan, Yosemite (USA) – 1993 – Second multi-pitch at 5.14a (8b+),[194] by Lynn Hill (partnered by Brooke Sandahl); the big-wall free climb is considered as one of the most important ascents in rock climbing history, and also a major milestone in female rock climbing; in 1994, Hill repeated it in under 24 hours; took over a decade for the first clean repeat.[210]

8a+ (5.13c):

8a (5.13b):

7c+ (5.13a):

7b+ (5.12c):

  • Regular Northwest Face (690-meters, 24 pitches) – Half Dome, Yosemite (USA) – 1976 – First big wall free climb at 7b+ (5.12c) by Art Higbee and Jim Erickson.[215][216][213] 20 years later, a variation to the crux pitch was found to keep the entire route at 5.12a.
  • Hall of Mirrors (650-meters, 16 pitches) – Glacier Point, Yosemite (USA) –1980 – Second big wall free climb at 7b+ (5.12c) by Chris Cantwell, Scott Burk, Scott Cole.[217][50][213]
  • Amarcord (400-metres, 9-pitches) – 7th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon (SUI) – 1984 – Third big wall free climb at 7b+ (5.12c), by Martin Scheel [de].[209]

7b (5.12b):

7a+ (5.12a):

  • Macabre Wall (180-meters, 5-pitches) – Ogden, UT (US) – 1967 – Multi-pitch free climb at 5.12a led by Greg Lowe.[62][63]
  • Footless Crow (60-meters, 2-pitches) – Goat Crag, Lake District (UK) – April 1974 – Multi-pitch free climb at E5 6b by Pete Livesey, harder today due to large broken flake.[64]
  • Air Voyage (550-meters, 13-pitches) – Black Canyon National Park CO (US) – 1979 – Big Wall free climb at 5.12a by Leonard Coyne and Ken Sims.[217][124]

7a (5.11d):

6c+ (5.11b/c):

  • New Frontier (75-meters, 2-pitches) – Millbrook Shawangunks NY (US) – 1969 – Multi-pitch Free Ascent at 5.11b by Gary Brown and John Stannard.[220][56]
  • Naked Edge (205-meters, 7-pitches) – Redgarden Wall Eldorado Canyon CO (US) – Oct 1971 – Multi-pitch Free Ascent at 5.11b by Jim Erickson and Duncan Ferguson.[124][221]
  • Wide Country (120-meters, 4-pitches) – Bastille Eldorado Canyon CO (US) – June 1972 – First Free Ascent at 5.11b by Duncan Ferguson and Don Peterson.[221][222]
  • Basket Case (255-meters, 7-pitches) – Basket Dome Yosemite CA (US) – June 1972 – Multi-pitch free climb at 5.11b by Mark Klemens, Jim Bridwell and Jim Donini.[50]

6c (5.11a/b):

  • Athletes Feat (80-meters, 5-pitches) – Castle Rock, Boulder Canyon, Boulder CO (US) – 1964 – First Free Ascent by Royal Robbins and Pat Ament.[50][124]
  • Country Club Crack (60-meters, 2-pitches) – Castle Rock, Boulder Canyon, Boulder CO (US) – 1967 – First Free Ascent led by Pat Ament; the first pitch is now 5.11c as holds have crumbled.[50][124]
  • Swing Time (50-meters, 2-pitches) – Shawangunk Mountains NY (US) – 1968 – Multi-pitch First Free Ascent by John Stannard.[223][56]

6b+ (5.10d/11a):

  • Talseite (40-meters, 3-pitches) – Schwager Schrammsteine Saxon Switzerland (DEU) – 1952 – Early multi-pitch free climb, even with shoulder stands is graded Sax VIIIc, by Harry Rost.[224]
  • Post Mortem (45-meters, 2-pitches) – Eagle Crag Borrowdale Lake District (UK) – 1956 – Early multi-pitch at E4 5c (5.11a) by Paul Ross and Peter Lockey.[225]

6b (5.10c):

  • Solleder Route, Direct Finish (700-meters total, 19-pitches total) –Furchetta Dolomites (ITA) – 1932 – New five-pitch variation at UIAA Grade VII added to the route by Giovanni Vinatzer and Vincenzo Perista.[226][227]
  • Rebitsch-Spiegl (300-meters, 8-pitches) – Fleischbank Wilde Kaiser (AUT) – 1946 – Multi-pitch free climb at UIAA Grade VII by Mathias Rebitsch and Sepp Spiegl.[227]
  • Nordverschneidung (800-meters, 20-pitches) – Lalidererspitze Karwendel (AUT) – 1947 – Big wall free climb at UIAA Grade VII by Mathias Rebitsch and Franz Lorenz.[227]

6a+ (5.10b):

  • Via Vinatzer (180-meters, 6-pitches) – Stevia, Val Gardena, Dolomites, (ITA) – 1933 – Multi-pitch at UIAA Grade VII- by Giovanni Vinatzer and Vincenzo Peristi.[228][227][226]
  • Via Solda (650-meters, 18-pitches) – Marmolada, Dolomites, (ITA) – August 1936 – Big wall free climb at UIAA Grade VII- by Gino Solda and Umberto Conforto.[228]
  • Via Vinatzer-Castiglioni (900-meters, 29-pitches) – Marmolada, Dolomites, (ITA) – Sept 1936 – Big wall free climb at UIAA Grade VII- by Giovanni Vinatzer and Ettore Castiglioni.[228][226]

6a (5.10a):

  • Micheluzzi Route (720-meters, 19-pitches) – Marmolada, Dolomites, (ITA) –1929 – Big wall free climb at UIAA Grade VI+ by Luigi Micheluzzi, Roberto Perathoner, Demitrio Christomannos.[217]
  • Spigolo Giallo (410-meters, 14-pitches) – Tre Cima, Dolomites, (ITA) – 1933 – Big wall free climb at UIAA Grade VI+ by Emilio Comici, Mary Varale, and Renatto Zanutti.[227]

5c (5.9):

  • Ha-He Verschneidung (360-meters, 12-pitches) – Dreizinkenspitze, Karwendel (AUT) – August 1921 – Big wall free climb at UIAA Grade VI by Otto Herzog and Gustav Haber.[229]
  • North Face (600-meters, 20-pitches) – Furchetta, Dolomites, (ITA) – August 1, 1925 – Big wall free climb at UIAA Grade VI by Emil Solleder and Fritz Wiessner.[229]
  • Solleder Route (1,100-meters, 44-pitches) Monte Civetta, Dolomites, (ITA) – August 4, 1925 – Big wall free climb at UIAA Grade VI by Emil Solleder and Gustl Lettenbauer.[229]

Free-soloed

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All of these climbs were rehearsed except as noted below.

7c+ (5.13a):

 
Alex Honnold's 2017 free solo of Freerider (5.13a, 7c+), El Capitan

7b+ (5.12c):

 
The famous "fish" feature on The Fish Route [de], Marmolada

7b (5.12b):

7a+ (5.12a):

6c+ (5.11b/c):

6b+ (5.10d/11a):

  • The Boldest (75-meters, 2-pitches) – Clogwyn (WAL) – 1969 – Multi-pitch free solo at E4 5c by Alan Rouse.[64]
  • Pipeline (140-meters, 4-pitches) – Squamish BC (CAN) – 1979 – Onsight First Free Ascent at 5.10d by Greg Cameron.[134]
  • Scenic Cruise (600-meters, 14-pitches) – Black Canyon, CO – (US) – 1979 – Big wall free solo at 5.10d, four of the pitches soloed on sight, by Earl Wiggins.[134]

6b (5.10c):

  • Vector (90-meters, 4-pitches) – Tremadog (UK) – 1969 – Multi-pitch free solo at E2 5c by Alan McHardy.[137]
  • Sooberb (70-meters, 3-pitches) – Eldorado Canyon CO (US) – 1972 – Onsight First Free Ascent at 5.10c by Jim Erickson.[54][238]

6a+ (5.10b):

6a (5.10a):

  • Cassin Route (800-meters, 21-pitches) – Piz Badile, Bregaglia, (SUI) – 1952 – Onsight Big Wall free solo, in four and a half hours, by Hermann Buhl.[228][217]

5c (5.9):

5b (5.8):

5a (5.7):


See also

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Notes

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  1. ^ Excluded from 9c: Alex Megos's Bibliographie (2020) is excluded post its 2021 downgrade by Stefano Ghisolfi (that Megos agreed with), and Sean Bailey's (2020) further confirmation that it is at 9b+ (it ranks as the fifth-ever 9b+ in history).[3][4]
  2. ^ Excluded from 9b+: Bernabè Fernandez [es]'s Chilam Balam [fr] (2003), was an unconfirmed and disputed first ascent that Fernandez proposed at 9b+ (5.15c) (the world's first-ever 9b+), which Adam Ondra regraded to a "low end" 5.15b (9b) in 2008, and which was further downgraded by later repeaters to a consensus of "hard 9a+ or 9a+/b".[9]
  3. ^ Excluded from 9b: Dani Andrada [fr]'s Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension (2007) is excluded post its 2021 downgrade to 9a+/b by Alex Garriga,[18][19][20] and further downgraded to 9a by Dani Moreno in 2023.[21]
  4. ^ Excluded from 9b: Dani Andrada [fr]'s Delincuente Natural (2008) is excluded post its 2021 downgrade to 9a by Jonathan Flor, who made the first repeat.[22]
  5. ^ Excluded from 9b: Fred Rouhling's Akira (1995) is excluded post its 2020 downgrade to 9a by Seb Bouin and Lucien Martinez.[23]
  6. ^ Not included in 9b: Tommy Caldwell's Flex Luthor (2003) is not included as Matty Hong's 2021 upgrade to 9b included the breaking of over a dozen handholds and twenty footholds, so much so that Hong could not opine on whether it was the same route Caldwell climbed, and Caldwell himself intervened to say that it was not as hard as Jumbo Love.[24][25] In November 2022, Jonathan Siegrist made the fourth ascent and downgraded it to 9a+ (5.15a)[26]
  7. ^ Excluded from 9a+: Alexander Huber's Weiße Rose (1994) was graded 8c+ but Adam Ondra's 2008 repeat estimated it at 9a (and potentially 9a+, which would have made it the world first-ever 9a+), however, Jakob Schubert's 2020 repeat confirmed it 9a.[31]
  8. ^ Excluded from 9a+: Bernabè Fernandez [es]'s Orujo (1998), was an unconfirmed and disputed ascent that Fernandez proposed at 9a+ (5.15a) (the world's first-ever 9a+ at the time), which has not been repeated due to concerns over manufacturing of holds.[32][33]
  9. ^ Not included in 8c:Jerry Moffatt's Stone Love (1988), is listed in some climbing databases as the world's second-ever 8c,[37] however, its consensus grade is considered at 8b+.[42]
  10. ^ Not included in 8b+: Wolfgang Güllich's Dead Line (1986) is listed in some climbing databases as the world's third-ever 8b+,[37] however, its consensus grade is now closer to 8b.[43]
  11. ^ Not included in 8b: Martin Scheel [de]'s Vuelo a Ciegas Direct (trans: Blind Fight) which was Spain's first 8b and sometimes mistaken as being climbed in 1984,[10] whereas Scheel did the first ascent in 1986.[45]
  12. ^ Not included in 8a+: Dave Cuthbertson's traditional climb Requiem (1983) is listed in some climbing databases as the world's second-ever 8a+,[37] however, its consensus grade is now closer to 8a (or E8 6b in the English traditional grading system).[47]
  13. ^ Not included in 8a: Peter Cleveland's Phlogiston (1977) at Devil's Lake is sometimes proposed as a first 8a (5.13b),[10] but it was clarified as a top rope.[48]
  14. ^ Excluded from 9b: Laura Rogora's 2020 ascent of Dani Andrada [fr]'s Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension (2007),[66] is excluded post its 2021 downgrade from 9b to 9a+/b by Alex Garriga.[18][19]
  15. ^ Excluded from 9a: Sasha Digiulian's 2012 ascent of Era Vella, which was at the time considered the fourth-ever female ascent of a 9a.[81] Era Vella has since been downgraded to 8c+/9a in the main climbing databases.[82]
  16. ^ Not included in 9a: Alizée Dufraisse's 2012 ascent of La Reina Mora, which is sometimes considered as being 9a (thus the fourth-ever female 9a), but the climbing databases regard La Reina Mora as 8c+/9a.[83]
  17. ^ Excluded from 8c:Kajsa Rosén [cs]'s onsight of T-1 Full Equip in March 2016 was considered a possible first female 8c onsght,[111] but the consensus grade was settled at 8b+ in 2021.[112][113]
  18. ^ Not included in 8b+: Katie Brown's onsight of Omaha Beach in 1999 is sometimes mistakenly classed as an 8b+ onsight,[118] however, several holds had broken from the sandstone route since Brown's onsight, and the original route was not considered an 8b+ (5.14a)-graded route.[119][120]
  19. ^ Not included in 8b+:Charlotte Durif [fr] lists a number of 8b+ onsights in her personal database: Spider cochon (2008), Ultime démence (2009), Basse température (2009) and Snails paradise (July 2010), that would rank as the earliest 8b+ female onsights,[118] however, they have not been verified in climbing media (unlike Les Rois du Pétrole in 2010).[121]
  20. ^ Excluded from V17: Charles Albert's No Kpote Only (2019) was proposed at V17 but was downgraded by the first and second repeaters, Ryohei Kameyama (to V16 in 2020) and Nicolas Pelorson respectively (to V15 in 2020).[139]
  21. ^ Not included in V17: Simon Lorenzi's Soudain Seul (2021), proposed at V17 but repeated by Nicolas Pelorson (2021) who felt it was V16 saying "V17 is impossible for Soudain Seul because you do a V12 before a V14/15"; a second repeat by Camille Coudert (2022) upheld the V17 grade, however, it remains listed as V16 or V16/V17 in the main climbing databases (e.g thecrag).[140][141]
  22. ^ Excluded from 8C+: Dai Koyamada's The Wheel of Life (2004), once considered the first 8C+ but since downgraded to 8C (V15); it links several boulder problems over 68 moves and is now regarded as more a sport climbing route, with grade of 9a (5.14d).[151]
  23. ^ Not included in V15: Markus Bock [de]'s Gossip (April 2002) was proposed by Bock at 8B+ (V14) but later revised upwards by Bock to 8C (V15),[162] however, a first repeat by John Gaskins disputed the grade and felt it was closer to 8B+ (V14); led to a very acrimonious public exchange with Bock.[163][164][165]
  24. ^ Not included in V15: Klem Loskot's Emotional Landscapes SS (November 2002), was originally proposed by Loskot at 8B+ (V14), and Martin Moser's 2004 repeat was silent on the grade (he used different beta), however, Nalle Hukkataival's second repeat in 2014 (who also used different beta) suggested a possible 8C (V15), one of the world's first;[166] currently listed at 8B+/C (note the standing start is 8A+).[167]
  25. ^ Excluded from V14: Werner Thom's Zerberus (1997), was downgraded to V13 (8B) on its repeat by Thomas Lindinger in 2017.[170]
  26. ^ Excluded from V12: Jacky Godoffe [it]'s Partenaire Particulier (1987), which was considered at 8A+ (V12),[10] but has since been regraded to 8A (V11) in the main climbing databases.
  27. ^ Not included in V13: Therese Johansen's ascent of Bernd Zangerl [fr]'s Propaganda (May 2011) would have ranked as the third-ever female ascent of a V13 (8B), but she downgraded the boulder herself to hard V12 or maybe V13 after climbing it.[188]

References

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Further reading

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