Seven days to myself in London, just what did I get up to? This post follows on from the last, as I finished up in Chinatown, headed to more nearby points of interest.
Piccadilly Circus
Having done a lap of Chinatown, I headed towards my next point of interest, Piccadilly Circus. Along the way, I passed by the Swiss Court, albeit not at the right time.
I passed by this rather vintage, ovular-shaped post box, divided by first class and presumably regular post. It’s nice to see older vintage facilities still kept functional.
Almost there, I see this rather different-looking building. It’s interesting how some buildings stand out – from red brick to a much more curved, dome and glassy appearance with pale-coloured bricks and greenish and gold accents. I suspect that’s code for high-end Victorian architecture.
At the corner is this marble fountain, although dry at the time of visiting.
Apparently, it’s a charity fountain, with a sculpture known as the Horses of Helios.
The Underground entrance (or exit) for the Piccadilly Circus station. While I knew all I would find is a large roundabout … after all, that’s what “circus” is still understood to mean over in London, in my head, all I could think about was travelling performers.
I took a free-handed quick 360-degree panorama of the area. As much as I was hoping to find an unforgettable view, all I found was something akin to a scaled-down city intersection, almost like a mini-Shibuya crossing.
Sure, there are a few modern LED sign-boards which means this is a big-traffic area, but there were also a fair amount of “rough sleepers” hanging around the sculpture that made me a little more alert of my belongings and to minimise my time loitering around.
Eros, atop the Shaftesbury Memorial Fountain.
A wider shot, showing the full context along with the myriad of people sitting on its steps. I left soon after taking the shot …
… headed back towards Trafalgar Square, I passed by this red phone box near the Theatre Royal Haymarket. The sign above has been replaced with what looks like wood, with drilled holes in a grid, painted grey. A most unusual sign, perhaps an odd repair?
Whitehall & Westminster
Back near Trafalgar Square, nearing the middle of the day on a weekend, I receive an alert from my university’s risk management provider indicating some protests happening in the UK. Well, I wasn’t going to be part of that, so let’s walk down Whitehall before everything is set-up.
A view of Trafalgar Square as I was heading towards Westminster on-foot.
Having visited Theatreland and seeing the map, I was no longer surprised to find a theatre hiding out here.
The George Duke of Cambridge equestrian statue, in front of the Old War Office (OWO) building, now home of Raffles Spa according to Google Maps.
Further down, I managed to see the Kings/Queen’s Guard. Don’t touch the horse! While I had made a conscious decision to avoid seeing the changing of the guard ceremony at Buckingham Palace to avoid crowds, at least I got to see the guards on their horses here. Some inconsiderate tourists did get a bit close for comfort to the horse – the white painted box on the ground doesn’t seem to deter the determined.
Near the 8th Duke of Devonshire statue, I saw two police officers having quite the chat with a cyclist. While cycling seems to be quite popular in London, perhaps some of them are not as law-abiding or as considerate as they should be.
Along Whitehall, there are plenty of statues and memorials -Field Marshal Earl Haig Memorial and The Women of WWII.
Another for Field Marshal Viscount Montgomery of Alamein.
By now, I realised that I should probably keep my momentum, because things are starting to get set-up and fences were already in-place all around. The Cenotaph had been fenced around. By now, I’ve realised that I’ve passed by Downing St, but given the situation, I wasn’t going to try to cross the road or turn back.
King Charles Street Arch leading into a number of government offices.
At last, I’ve managed to reach Westminster, where I saw the statue of Sir Winston Churchill. Far from being intimidating, the statue with his stature and stance seems to be quite unique and full of character. Opposite the statue? Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament.
In the past, whenever I saw Big Ben, it had a dull sandstone yellow almost like dirty sand. But it seems after the restorations, the clock tower is now very bright and vibrant. The London Eye in the background, peeking out from behind Westminster station, almost seems like an undeserving eye-sore by comparison.
I took a panorama of the Houses of Parliament. There was some construction going on near the rear of the building which spoiled the look a little.
But the remarkably straight, angular and regular lines are quite impressive considering the age of such a building – the Palace of Westminster is a UNESCO World Heritage site and stands from 1876.
Gaslighting? Yes! There’s plenty of gas lamps still in operation in the UK. The mantles are clearly visible.
The back of Westminster Abbey …
… another view as I’m walking around towards the front ..
… oh wait … there’s some construction happening …
The sun was in just the wrong place, but as grand as it appears, I wasn’t going to pay the entrance fee to see it – GBP31 is quite the steep fee.
I took some up-close vertical panoramas of the clock-face, which have plenty of gold accents and adornments. The black of the dial face shines more of a dark indigo. There are even words inscribed in the stonework below the clockface.
One more shot before I cross the road.
There is a memorial on the fenceline, for P.C. Keith Palmer GM. It seemed plenty of people walked past without noticing.
In the meantime, I couldn’t wait to get onto Westminster Bridge. The earthy colour of the Thames beneath me, I managed to confirm that the handrail’s openings combined with the angle of the sunlight projects phallic images onto the ground. Just as some meme image randomly found on the internet had warned me beforehand!
But yes, overtourism seems to be everywhere in London. That’s what Westminster Bridge’s footpaths actually look like. All these tourists taking photos …
… including me. But I was more of a “get the shot and get out” mission-oriented visitor.
In the meantime, there is a separated bike lane on the bridge with this sign. Is it a warning to cyclists not to overtake cyclists? Or is it a warning to cars on the road not to overtake cyclists that are on the road (that didn’t opt to use the cycle lane)? Some of the tourists weren’t very aware of their surroundings, stepping into the cycle lane with some close-calls.
Greenwich
It’s another day, so it’s time to take a big trip. Even though Greenwich (pronounced gren-itch) is a little out-of-the-way, I thought it would be worth my time to pay it a visit, in part because of the National Maritime Museum and Queens House, both of which are free to enter with free tickets available through their site, and to pay the Greenwich Prime Meridian a visit. It is especially fitting, given that my visit was to support our Longitude Prize effort, that I visit the landmark that defined 0-degrees longitude.
But alas, my visit was slightly more complicated than it need be. I arrived by DLR, with the tube map helpfully telling me that “Cutty Sark for Greenwich Maritime” station was closed. Turns out, after years of neglect by private ownership, it had a long shut-down in order to replace all the escalators, only re-opening on 23rd March – the day after I had planned my booked visit. My luck with encountering construction on my travels continues, it would seem.
As a result, I had to alight at Greenwich station, a bit closer to the city centre, taking a walk down the high road to get back to the Thames. Passing by the National Rail station, I thought “that’s a quaint station building!”
On my way down, I met this electronic advertisement board with a Department for Education ad running on it – GBP37.8k starting salary for a teacher … doesn’t sound that great. That would translate to about AUD72.2k, which is less than our teaching graduate salaries at home of AUD79k to 92k. Considering the prices I saw in London which seem high compared to home … Londoners definitely have it tough. Once again, it’s hard not to love home even more when you see things like this!
Is that a cherry blossom tree? Or could it be a plum blossom tree? Either way, it was in such full bloom, I could almost mistake being back in Japan for a moment.
Passing by St Alfege Church, its spire told me it was 9am, right on the dot!
On my way to find the meridian, I passed by a traditional-looking pub, Ye Olde Rose & Crown …
… and right opposite the gates, the Greenwich Tavern. Pubs aren’t quite my thing but 9am is definitely too early for a pub …
… and it was too early for the museum as well. Thankfully, the grounds were open to walk around. After snapping a quick shot of the statue of William IV …
… I turned my attention to the park.
The morning was lovely, with a broken overcast layer making for a gentle illumination, over the bitumen road that gently sloped up-hill towards the observatory. The keen jogged, ran and cycled up the incline, which got progressively steeper. Myself, I decided to take a more unhurried approach, taking the time to sit down on the slightly-reclined benches from time to time to catch my breath and scroll through my e-mails. After all, while I might have a week to myself, there are still things to worry about at home and elsewhere.
Walking up this road, I crossed a curious “strip” of concrete in the bitumen. Granted, this is the back side of the observatory, I couldn’t help but wonder if that was the Prime Meridian. I took out my phone with my favourite GPS Toolbox app and … to my surprise, it told me I was at 0° 0.0870′ W. That’s close, but not quite zero.
Confused, I quickly Googled and discovered the truth – that there’s more to the story. In fact, it is 0.001472° off – converting my phone’s reading to decimal degrees give 0.00145° which is pretty darn accurate!
Thinking that I’ve learned something at long last, I sought to find where the actual zero-degree line, as referenced by GPS, would pass. Turns out, it passes in front one of the observatory buildings which was … and say it with me now … under-renovation. As for my facial expression … I suppose it’s the indifference of knowing where 0 degrees (+/- 3.8m) passes through …
While one of the buildings was under renovation, the main part of the Royal Observatory was not. But it is a paid visit and one that I didn’t feel was necessary – I had encountered the Prime Meridian, albeit “from behind”.
It was worth coming up to the observatory though – not for the observatory or the Prime Meridian, but for the view! The view at the top of the hill gives another perspective of London.
The beautiful green of the park, the Greenwich Museums and Naval buildings in front of the city skyline. The only thing spoiling it was a bit of brown haze.
While I didn’t go into the Royal Observatory, at least I got to see it from the outside …
… and got a peek of the courtyard through the front gates. There it is, on the ground! The Prime Meridian.
Passing the “galvano-magnetic clock” on the front, there is a bit of path that extends just below the courtyard where the Prime Meridian extends, no payment necessary!
Here, I got a measurement of 0° 0.0880′ which converts to 0.001467°.
Compared to the “actual value” of 0.001472° and my last measurement on the rear of 0.00145°, all I can say is that multi-constellation GNSS is pretty accurate for a “spot” reading. Perhaps if I had stayed longer and averaged it over time, it might have converged better.
The beautiful green appears to be a concerted rejuvenation effort to address erosion.
I’m quite happy that I took the “back road” to the Royal Observatory, since the direct path is quite a steep ramp. The outer path is definitely a bit more gentle.
The Royal Observatory sitting proudly on its hill. In the meantime, I sat down for a little, watching people play with their dogs. Before long, it was time to make my way to the museums.
Royal Maritime Museum & Queen’s House
The Royal Maritime Museum is a bit of an oddly-laid-out museum. As with most museums, I’d say there’s quite a lot of educational value that suits younger audiences, but there are also plenty of more sophisticated exhibits for adults.
There’s a giant interior floor-space near the cafeteria with a map of the seas laid out for children to explore. Throughout, there are various exhibits of maritime technology as well as significant maritime events and explorations. I did decide to have fun with one of the interactive exhibits that asked “I feel most lost when …”
… so I decided to give the very technical and literal response of “… the GPS navigation is jammed or unavailable.” Others seemed to choose a more emotional frame for the question.
I was plenty disappointed to find that the lighthouse lamp turned out to be a spiral CFL.
The front entrance of the museum is quite a heritage facade, unlike the modern rear entrance.
There was a groundskeeper watering the lawn … what a nice day to be outside.
Queens House was worth a quick visit too, with quite a few artworks on exhibit inside.
After that, I crossed the road to head towards the river.
I think this is the University of Greenwich and the area was the old Royal Naval College.
It is quite picturesque, but there was a statue of King George II all wrapped up. Not sure why though.
Walking along the shoreline, we pass the other major attraction in the area, the Cutty Sark.
But I was more interested in this … after having seen it in a YouTube video, I’m finally visiting it in person.
The Greenwich foot tunnel … a small “tube” of sorts that opened in 1902, a year after Australia was federated.
While rental electric bikes are not permitted in the foot tunnel and nor is riding of bikes, people seem to ignore this. At each end, there are displays that indicate the operational status of the large octagonal hydraulic lifts. It seems they’re a bit aged, with one of them having some sticky doors.
The tunnel diameter is a bit on the small side, but it is well lit.
One segment does get narrower, a result of a breach of the tunnel during WWII that was repaired.
This section seems to consist of steel segments bolted together.
Professor Oak (from Pokemon) would agree with this … but a sign doesn’t stop the locals.
Conclusion
I guess that’s a few more of those “must-see” locations ticked off my list. It’s nice to see many of these locations in real life, up-close. The bustle and advertising signs of Piccadilly Circus, which felt like a bit like a scaled-down mini Shibuya in a way. Big Ben, after its restoration, is absolutely radiant in the sun. Westminster bridge’s design, in the sun, proved to be just as entertaining as the online memes had suggested. Visiting the Prime Meridian at Greenwich is one of those “scientific” pilgrimages to an important historical location and I enjoyed walking through the foot tunnel at Greenwich, seeing the war-damaged section in-person, while enjoying a pleasant and slightly-inclined commute that many Londoners may do on a regular basis without a second thought. Best of all, there were plenty of amazing sights along the way.
With just seven days to myself, I think I’ve done well so far, but there is still more to see. I really tried to squeeze as much as I could into my trip, so there are a few more parts to come in the following weeks … in the meantime, I’ll be back to my 8 Out of 10 Cats Does Countdown and Taskmaster binge. I guess I’ve grown fond of British comedy for no specific reason whatsoever …