2026LON Part 5: Piccadilly Circus, Whitehall, Westminster and Greenwich

Seven days to myself in London, just what did I get up to? This post follows on from the last, as I finished up in Chinatown, headed to more nearby points of interest.

Piccadilly Circus

Having done a lap of Chinatown, I headed towards my next point of interest, Piccadilly Circus. Along the way, I passed by the Swiss Court, albeit not at the right time.

I passed by this rather vintage, ovular-shaped post box, divided by first class and presumably regular post. It’s nice to see older vintage facilities still kept functional.

Almost there, I see this rather different-looking building. It’s interesting how some buildings stand out – from red brick to a much more curved, dome and glassy appearance with pale-coloured bricks and greenish and gold accents. I suspect that’s code for high-end Victorian architecture.

At the corner is this marble fountain, although dry at the time of visiting.

Apparently, it’s a charity fountain, with a sculpture known as the Horses of Helios.

The Underground entrance (or exit) for the Piccadilly Circus station. While I knew all I would find is a large roundabout … after all, that’s what “circus” is still understood to mean over in London, in my head, all I could think about was travelling performers.

I took a free-handed quick 360-degree panorama of the area. As much as I was hoping to find an unforgettable view, all I found was something akin to a scaled-down city intersection, almost like a mini-Shibuya crossing.

Sure, there are a few modern LED sign-boards which means this is a big-traffic area, but there were also a fair amount of “rough sleepers” hanging around the sculpture that made me a little more alert of my belongings and to minimise my time loitering around.

Eros, atop the Shaftesbury Memorial Fountain.

A wider shot, showing the full context along with the myriad of people sitting on its steps. I left soon after taking the shot …

… headed back towards Trafalgar Square, I passed by this red phone box near the Theatre Royal Haymarket. The sign above has been replaced with what looks like wood, with drilled holes in a grid, painted grey. A most unusual sign, perhaps an odd repair?

Whitehall & Westminster

Back near Trafalgar Square, nearing the middle of the day on a weekend, I receive an alert from my university’s risk management provider indicating some protests happening in the UK. Well, I wasn’t going to be part of that, so let’s walk down Whitehall before everything is set-up.

A view of Trafalgar Square as I was heading towards Westminster on-foot.

Having visited Theatreland and seeing the map, I was no longer surprised to find a theatre hiding out here.

The George Duke of Cambridge equestrian statue, in front of the Old War Office (OWO) building, now home of Raffles Spa according to Google Maps.

Further down, I managed to see the Kings/Queen’s Guard. Don’t touch the horse! While I had made a conscious decision to avoid seeing the changing of the guard ceremony at Buckingham Palace to avoid crowds, at least I got to see the guards on their horses here. Some inconsiderate tourists did get a bit close for comfort to the horse – the white painted box on the ground doesn’t seem to deter the determined.

Near the 8th Duke of Devonshire statue, I saw two police officers having quite the chat with a cyclist. While cycling seems to be quite popular in London, perhaps some of them are not as law-abiding or as considerate as they should be.

Along Whitehall, there are plenty of statues and memorials -Field Marshal Earl Haig Memorial and The Women of WWII.

Another for Field Marshal Viscount Montgomery of Alamein.

By now, I realised that I should probably keep my momentum, because things are starting to get set-up and fences were already in-place all around. The Cenotaph had been fenced around. By now, I’ve realised that I’ve passed by Downing St, but given the situation, I wasn’t going to try to cross the road or turn back.

King Charles Street Arch leading into a number of government offices.

 

At last, I’ve managed to reach Westminster, where I saw the statue of Sir Winston Churchill. Far from being intimidating, the statue with his stature and stance seems to be quite unique and full of character. Opposite the statue? Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament.

In the past, whenever I saw Big Ben, it had a dull sandstone yellow almost like dirty sand. But it seems after the restorations, the clock tower is now very bright and vibrant. The London Eye in the background, peeking out from behind Westminster station, almost seems like an undeserving eye-sore by comparison.

I took a panorama of the Houses of Parliament. There was some construction going on near the rear of the building which spoiled the look a little.

But the remarkably straight, angular and regular lines are quite impressive considering the age of such a building – the Palace of Westminster is a UNESCO World Heritage site and stands from 1876.

Gaslighting? Yes! There’s plenty of gas lamps still in operation in the UK. The mantles are clearly visible.

The back of Westminster Abbey …

… another view as I’m walking around towards the front ..

… oh wait … there’s some construction happening …

The sun was in just the wrong place, but as grand as it appears, I wasn’t going to pay the entrance fee to see it – GBP31 is quite the steep fee.

I took some up-close vertical panoramas of the clock-face, which have plenty of gold accents and adornments. The black of the dial face shines more of a dark indigo. There are even words inscribed in the stonework below the clockface.

One more shot before I cross the road.

There is a memorial on the fenceline, for P.C. Keith Palmer GM. It seemed plenty of people walked past without noticing.

In the meantime, I couldn’t wait to get onto Westminster Bridge. The earthy colour of the Thames beneath me, I managed to confirm that the handrail’s openings combined with the angle of the sunlight projects phallic images onto the ground. Just as some meme image randomly found on the internet had warned me beforehand!

But yes, overtourism seems to be everywhere in London. That’s what Westminster Bridge’s footpaths actually look like. All these tourists taking photos …

… including me. But I was more of a “get the shot and get out” mission-oriented visitor.

In the meantime, there is a separated bike lane on the bridge with this sign. Is it a warning to cyclists not to overtake cyclists? Or is it a warning to cars on the road not to overtake cyclists that are on the road (that didn’t opt to use the cycle lane)? Some of the tourists weren’t very aware of their surroundings, stepping into the cycle lane with some close-calls.

Greenwich

It’s another day, so it’s time to take a big trip. Even though Greenwich (pronounced gren-itch) is a little out-of-the-way, I thought it would be worth my time to pay it a visit, in part because of the National Maritime Museum and Queens House, both of which are free to enter with free tickets available through their site, and to pay the Greenwich Prime Meridian a visit. It is especially fitting, given that my visit was to support our Longitude Prize effort, that I visit the landmark that defined 0-degrees longitude.

But alas, my visit was slightly more complicated than it need be. I arrived by DLR, with the tube map helpfully telling me that “Cutty Sark for Greenwich Maritime” station was closed. Turns out, after years of neglect by private ownership, it had a long shut-down in order to replace all the escalators, only re-opening on 23rd March – the day after I had planned my booked visit. My luck with encountering construction on my travels continues, it would seem.

As a result, I had to alight at Greenwich station, a bit closer to the city centre, taking a walk down the high road to get back to the Thames. Passing by the National Rail station, I thought “that’s a quaint station building!”

On my way down, I met this electronic advertisement board with a Department for Education ad running on it – GBP37.8k starting salary for a teacher … doesn’t sound that great. That would translate to about AUD72.2k, which is less than our teaching graduate salaries at home of AUD79k to 92k. Considering the prices I saw in London which seem high compared to home … Londoners definitely have it tough. Once again, it’s hard not to love home even more when you see things like this!

Is that a cherry blossom tree? Or could it be a plum blossom tree? Either way, it was in such full bloom, I could almost mistake being back in Japan for a moment.

Passing by St Alfege Church, its spire told me it was 9am, right on the dot!

On my way to find the meridian, I passed by a traditional-looking pub, Ye Olde Rose & Crown …

… and right opposite the gates, the Greenwich Tavern. Pubs aren’t quite my thing but 9am is definitely too early for a pub …

 

… and it was too early for the museum as well. Thankfully, the grounds were open to walk around. After snapping a quick shot of the statue of William IV …

… I turned my attention to the park.

The morning was lovely, with a broken overcast layer making for a gentle illumination, over the bitumen road that gently sloped up-hill towards the observatory. The keen jogged, ran and cycled up the incline, which got progressively steeper. Myself, I decided to take a more unhurried approach, taking the time to sit down on the slightly-reclined benches from time to time to catch my breath and scroll through my e-mails. After all, while I might have a week to myself, there are still things to worry about at home and elsewhere.

Walking up this road, I crossed a curious “strip” of concrete in the bitumen. Granted, this is the back side of the observatory, I couldn’t help but wonder if that was the Prime Meridian. I took out my phone with my favourite GPS Toolbox app and … to my surprise, it told me I was at 0° 0.0870′ W. That’s close, but not quite zero.

Confused, I quickly Googled and discovered the truththat there’s more to the story. In fact, it is 0.001472° off – converting my phone’s reading to decimal degrees give 0.00145° which is pretty darn accurate!

Thinking that I’ve learned something at long last, I sought to find where the actual zero-degree line, as referenced by GPS, would pass. Turns out, it passes in front one of the observatory buildings which was … and say it with me now … under-renovation. As for my facial expression … I suppose it’s the indifference of knowing where 0 degrees (+/- 3.8m) passes through …

While one of the buildings was under renovation, the main part of the Royal Observatory was not. But it is a paid visit and one that I didn’t feel was necessary – I had encountered the Prime Meridian, albeit “from behind”.

It was worth coming up to the observatory though – not for the observatory or the Prime Meridian, but for the view! The view at the top of the hill gives another perspective of London.

The beautiful green of the park, the Greenwich Museums and Naval buildings in front of the city skyline. The only thing spoiling it was a bit of brown haze.

While I didn’t go into the Royal Observatory, at least I got to see it from the outside …

… and got a peek of the courtyard through the front gates. There it is, on the ground! The Prime Meridian.

Passing the “galvano-magnetic clock” on the front, there is a bit of path that extends just below the courtyard where the Prime Meridian extends, no payment necessary!

Here, I got a measurement of 0° 0.0880′ which converts to 0.001467°.

Compared to the “actual value” of 0.001472° and my last measurement on the rear of 0.00145°, all I can say is that multi-constellation GNSS is pretty accurate for a “spot” reading. Perhaps if I had stayed longer and averaged it over time, it might have converged better.

The beautiful green appears to be a concerted rejuvenation effort to address erosion.

I’m quite happy that I took the “back road” to the Royal Observatory, since the direct path is quite a steep ramp. The outer path is definitely a bit more gentle.

The Royal Observatory sitting proudly on its hill. In the meantime, I sat down for a little, watching people play with their dogs. Before long, it was time to make my way to the museums.

Royal Maritime Museum & Queen’s House

The Royal Maritime Museum is a bit of an oddly-laid-out museum. As with most museums, I’d say there’s quite a lot of educational value that suits younger audiences, but there are also plenty of more sophisticated exhibits for adults.

There’s a giant interior floor-space near the cafeteria with a map of the seas laid out for children to explore. Throughout, there are various exhibits of maritime technology as well as significant maritime events and explorations. I did decide to have fun with one of the interactive exhibits that asked “I feel most lost when …”

… so I decided to give the very technical and literal response of “… the GPS navigation is jammed or unavailable.” Others seemed to choose a more emotional frame for the question.

I was plenty disappointed to find that the lighthouse lamp turned out to be a spiral CFL.

The front entrance of the museum is quite a heritage facade, unlike the modern rear entrance.

There was a groundskeeper watering the lawn … what a nice day to be outside.

Queens House was worth a quick visit too, with quite a few artworks on exhibit inside.

After that, I crossed the road to head towards the river.

I think this is the University of Greenwich and the area was the old Royal Naval College.

It is quite picturesque, but there was a statue of King George II all wrapped up. Not sure why though.

Walking along the shoreline, we pass the other major attraction in the area, the Cutty Sark.

But I was more interested in this … after having seen it in a YouTube video, I’m finally visiting it in person.

The Greenwich foot tunnel … a small “tube” of sorts that opened in 1902, a year after Australia was federated.

While rental electric bikes are not permitted in the foot tunnel and nor is riding of bikes, people seem to ignore this. At each end, there are displays that indicate the operational status of the large octagonal hydraulic lifts. It seems they’re a bit aged, with one of them having some sticky doors.

The tunnel diameter is a bit on the small side, but it is well lit.

One segment does get narrower, a result of a breach of the tunnel during WWII that was repaired.

This section seems to consist of steel segments bolted together.

Professor Oak (from Pokemon) would agree with this … but a sign doesn’t stop the locals.

Conclusion

I guess that’s a few more of those “must-see” locations ticked off my list. It’s nice to see many of these locations in real life, up-close. The bustle and advertising signs of Piccadilly Circus, which felt like a bit like a scaled-down mini Shibuya in a way. Big Ben, after its restoration, is absolutely radiant in the sun. Westminster bridge’s design, in the sun, proved to be just as entertaining as the online memes had suggested. Visiting the Prime Meridian at Greenwich is one of those “scientific” pilgrimages to an important historical location and I enjoyed walking through the foot tunnel at Greenwich, seeing the war-damaged section in-person, while enjoying a pleasant and slightly-inclined commute that many Londoners may do on a regular basis without a second thought. Best of all, there were plenty of amazing sights along the way.

With just seven days to myself, I think I’ve done well so far, but there is still more to see. I really tried to squeeze as much as I could into my trip, so there are a few more parts to come in the following weeks … in the meantime, I’ll be back to my 8 Out of 10 Cats Does Countdown and Taskmaster binge. I guess I’ve grown fond of British comedy for no specific reason whatsoever …

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Review: Anker Solix F1200 Portable Power Station (aka 757, PowerHouse 1229Wh)

As part of my quest to optimise my energy bills, I’ve been looking into power stations and building up my arsenal of energy storage. Whenever I spot a reasonably priced power station (and budget permits), I decide to grab them for my own needs and run them through tests along the way.

When it comes to big-brands in the charging world, Anker is definitely well-recognised and their products usually carry a premium price-tag, up with the likes of Bluetti and Ecoflow. But just before the financial year was up, Anker came to the OzBargain table with quite a few tempting offers – unfortunately, I did miss a few but this one I did manage to catch. The deal was the Anker Solix F1200 1500W output/1229Wh capacity power station for AU$599 including delivery or just under AU$0.50/Wh which is quite decent for a branded product with a five-year warranty. Of course, this was a clearance as new models were on the way (this model is no longer listed), but this was a deal so hard to pass-up on that I ended up purchasing a few units, just like the DJI Power 1000 that I previously reviewed.

Unboxing

The first unit arrived in a very odd cardboard box. The design of the box has a lift-off lid and a base, resulting in a “rim” of packing tape left to secure the lid on a box containing more than 20kg of goods. Hardly a secure way to close the package, making it feel “spongy” even when it arrived.

Because of its weight, there are “team lift” stickers on the sides. Additionally, it is labelled with the necessary hazardous goods shipment labels, but from the sides, it is mostly plain.

 

The label on the side gives some information about the consignment, some of which I have blurred out. While the label on the outer with the model A1770C11A indicates a 2023 year, the label underneath (contrast-enhanced) indicates a date of manufacture of 2022.

The overpack protects the retail art box inside with an extra piece of cardboard at the top.

Everything is in a matte black, blue and silver colour scheme. An authenticity check label is affixed to the top.

The unit is branded Anker 757 Portable Power Station (PowerHouse 1229Wh), but online, it is also known as the Anker Solix F1200. This is part of their “Series 7” of products and comes with five year arranty. The front has an isometric view of the product.

The rear introduces the user to the main features of the power station, with a front-on view of the unit.

The sides provide an overview of some of the other features including the things which don’t come up in specifications – like the internal chassis. The other side shows an application for power stations – i.e. camping.

There are more details about the company on the underside of the box.

There’s a thank-you message printed on the internal flap.

The accessories are contained in a box, in foam, on the top layer. Below is the power station inside a foam cradle, wrapped in a protective plastic bag.

Included is thin nylon cover bag, a cigarette lighter charger cable, a solar charging cable for three panels, a mains lead and a user manual.

The front is rather spartan, with a reset pin-hole, a slide switch for the efficiency mode, a button for light, display, car socket output and AC output. The blue USB outputs which are very “Anker” in colour appear to be always active.

The ports on the rear are covered by a protective flap. A label reminds the user that they need to charge the unit to activate it prior to first use.

The full specifications and contact details for help are provided on the rear. The text 16IFpR27/72-6 is likely a hint as to the battery configuration internally – 16 series of 6 parallel 26700 cells.

Opening the magnetically-secured rear flap exposes the XT60 solar/DC input, a push-to-reset button for an overload breaker and an IEC input for charging/pass-through power.

The silver accent on the handles forms an X (or is that an angular “infinity”) when viewed from the top. But the arrangement is not simply flat – there are subtle natural curves throughout.

The unit is kept in place with two large, ribbed rubber feet. The heavy weight also keeps it firmly planted.

The two end-vents are stylishly fashioned out of slots with interleaved blue plastic tangs, making for a grille that is large, tough but resists entry of larger foreign matter.

The included mains cable comes from Linoya with the plug (XYP-05) carrying the RCM logo and an SAA number.

The IEC plug (XYC-05) carries a lot of the foregin approvals and both are stamped with 10A 250V rating.

The cable consists of three 1.0mm^2 cores, appropriate for the intended load.

For solar charging, an XT60 female to three XT60 female cable is included for use with specific solar panels, to allow three to be connected at a time in parallel.

The cable for the solar and for the included cigarette lighter charger cable is 14AWG which is appropriate for a current of 10A. The cigarette lighter socket contains a 10A fuse.

My final consignment was not quite as pleasing. This one had a more traditional box which is easier to seal …

… but the text on the side suggests to me that this item has been returned and refurbished. The label inside seems to suggest it had passed their internal check. This one was more willing to advertise the brand on the outside of the overpack.

It is telling when the label on the side has a number beginning with RMA! The date of manufacture is still in 2022 making this unit close to four years old. While the time may take a bit of a toll, the price is still exceptional and I’m fairly sure there’s quite a bit of life left in it. Rather than be petty and reject the unit, I decided to accept it – with such durable goods, I generally don’t mind if it’s a little used. The alternative may be that they tell me there’s no units left in their clearance and so I’d be left with a refund instead …

User Experience

For peace of mind, I did check the security verification code.

On the correct entry of the code the first time, you are given the indication that it is genuine. On subsequent queries, it tells you it is genuine along with the first date/time it was looked-up. As expected, this unit is genuine, so let’s see what the user experience is like.

Being an older unit, the F1200 (PowerHouse 757) is pretty spartan. There’s no remote control in the form of Bluetooth or Wi-Fi. In fact, there isn’t even any configuration except for a slide-switch that controls the power-saving “eco” mode that automatically shuts down unused outputs after a certain length of time. The threshold is not configurable and neither is the charge rate or output.

The LCD is quite simple to read, with a large battery icon on the left and the percentage remaining in very large font (the largest I’ve seen to date). This is very easily readable at a distance. This is checked by pressing on the “Display” button or by toggling any output status. The remaining time is estimated on the lower row in a smaller font – it would be nice if both were given nearly equal prominence.

 

Instantaneous output wattage is displayed to the left side with the unit having about a 1700W peak and 1500W sustained constant-power capability to run simple appliances like heaters. In case of severe overload, the output switches off automatically.

Charging input power is displayed towards the centre and begins slowly when the battery is fully depleted. It appears the final percentage is reserved and cannot be used. The solar input seems to be a bit sub-optimal due to its low-voltage range of 11-30V and doesn’t seem to automatically start when the sun rises (at least, in my testing, I had to push the display button to wake the station to have it start charging). The cable which parallels three solar panels is wired as XT60 female plugs, so it’s not going to work with all solar panels, but also means that all panels must be equivalent in voltage specifications for the unit to be able to maximise extracted energy.

On the upside, the most basic nature of the user interface makes it dead-simple to use. There’s no master switch. The USB outputs seem to be always active. The other outputs are a case of pushing the button once to turn on, in which the button illuminates to indicate it is active, then pushing against to turn off. It’s so simple that my Dad can use it without any ambiguity. While there is more in the way of inputs and outputs compared to the DJI Power 1000’s accessory-requiring nature, but overall the offering of the F1200 is still limited with only two AC outlets (equal to the DJI but less than my VTOMAN FlashSpeed 1500) and the USB-C ports being 100W and 60W rather than the 140W of the DJI.

Acoustically, it fares well as I rarely ever hear its fan, except during charging where it has a habit of coming on in short-ish bursts to keep the internals cool. The result is that sometimes you might be working away with the station nearly silent, but then it roars into a low “whoaaaarrrrr” for two or three seconds then stops. This might happen once every five or ten minutes. The fan arrangement is the opposite of the DJI Power 1000 – this unit exhausts to the left rather than the right. There is a little bit of coil whine that manifests itself as a high-pitched hiss under load but the fan doesn’t come on in discharge unless you’re running a heavy (>100W) load continuously and even then, it is thermostatically controlled with a speed that is proportional to cooling needs. Overall, I’d still say the DJI Power 1000 is quieter.

I think the Anker Solix F1200 looks quite aesthetically pleasing with its grey, silver and blue highlights and curved lines, but these looks hide a very substantial solid chassis. The build quality is indisputably first-rate, but being an older station, it does suffer from the fact that it’s one of the heaviest in this capacity class, weighing in at 19.9kg. That’s approaching the safe lifting limit for a single person. That’s not unsurprising when you realise that the capacity appears to be made up of 96 x ITR26/70-40E 3.2V 12.8Wh cylindrical cells (you can spy the markings from the side vents). Unfortunately, it would seem that age may have cost a little bit of the cell’s capacity.

While there is a warm-white light bar, I usually don’t find such frills all that useful as a power station is rarely placed where a light would be all that useful, but it is noted that it cycles through three brightnesses and SOS mode by long-press.

Testing

This section contains the results of measurements made using various pieces of test equipment which include the Tektronix PA1000 Power Analyser, Thermal Master P3 Thermal Camera, FNIRSI FNB58 USB Tester and Rohde and Schwarz MXO4 Oscilloscope.

USB Output Modes

One of the USB-C ports is rated at 100W and offers four fixed PDOs with one PPS PDO that doesn’t cover the full range (3.3V to 16V, 3.25A). The supported legacy fast charge protocols is somewhat limited, surprising given the IQ branding on the unit.

The other is rated at 60W and offers a similar mix but with lower current limits. It should be noted that the absence of 12V PDO may be unfortunate for some users.

The USB-A ports are very spartan, supporting Apple 2.4A and USB BCS (1.5A) only.

Discharge Tests

I used my fan heater load which is nominally 1.9kW to test the power station at high load. As the unit cannot sustain the full load, it appears to operate at a “peak” rating of about 1740W for the first minute, then falling back to about 1505W until the discharge completes. However, it does seem that the last percentage of capacity is not available for use, which does complicate calculation of efficiency – I’ve used the claimed capacity for all the computations just to be consistent, which results in an estimated discharge efficiency of 76.9% based on 945Wh delivered to the load. This implies a self-consumption (or loss) of about 454.5W under this load which is not great – the DJI Power 1000 manages a better result.

Moving down to a more modest 150W load, two stations were tested this time, producing very similar results. The discharge efficiency was 71.6%, with approximately 880Wh being delivered to the load. The computed self-consumption under this load was 55.4W. Once again, the DJI Power 1000 is better, but only very slightly.

The output voltage is quite well regulated, staying within around one volt throughout the full discharge process.

But it seems the Anker Solix F1200 does quite acceptably when it comes to the very light load circumstance of a single 2.9W LED lamp. While the efficiency of 15.8% is very low, it was still ahead of the DJI Power 1000’s 11.8% and the run-time is about 26 hours longer, also in part due to the larger cell capacity. The computed self-consumption is 15.3W, less than the DJI Power 1000’s 21.9W. So while the inverter isn’t as efficient under load, it’s slightly more efficient under a light load.

This pay-off can be seen in the fridge run time test – while the fridge load will vary due to the defrost cycle kicking in at intervals and changes in room temperature/food placed inside, the results are a bit neck-and-neck – 530.7Wh delivered is less than the 574Wh delivered from the DJI Power 1000, but the run-time of over 28 hours is longer than the 21 hours achieved in the DJI Power 1000 review. The computed self-consumption is 24.7W. This variation is not unexpected since the variation in fridge operation leads to differences in draw – but it is noted that the fridge does spend a little over 50% of its time idling, where the Anker would be more efficient. In the end, it seems there is no clear winner here.

The cigarette lighter socket output appears to be well regulated, outputting about 13.12V under a 10A load. It delivered 1013Wh for a 82.4% estimated discharge efficiency (27.8W calculated self-consumption). For a DC output, the efficiency is a bit lower than expected.

Under a 60W USB-C load, the unit delivered 900.4Wh for an estimated 73.3% discharge efficiency. This corresponds to a calculated 21.2W self-consumption, again, not the best. So it would imply that perhaps the older design of this power station and the fact there is no master-switch (so USB outputs are always live) may be the cause of the higher self-consumption.

Charging Tests

In the meantime, charging appears to be quite decent in terms of efficiency, with a computed 91.2% estimated charging efficiency. Charging took just shy of one and a half hours, making this a bit slower than the leading-edge one-hour charge stations, but faster charging does often come with lifetime risks, so this is not a bad compromise. There is no selection to charging speed, however. Charging is a little more gentle at the beginning when the cell voltage is low and tapers down to a finish. The quiescent draw at the end with the outputs turned off is around 5.3W. Based on the 150W discharge, the cycle efficiency is 65.2% which is fairly similar to other stations.

When charging via the DC solar input, it appears clear that the input is current limited to 10A, but it hovers more around 9A in reality. The calculated efficiencies exceed 100%, suggesting that the DC solar input is perhaps the most efficient, but also that the internal cells may be less than the rated capacity due to ageing and thus the poor showing for DC discharge efficiency may be representative of lost capacity instead. Nevertheless, in all cases, it appears that after charging completes, a constant 60mA is consumed regardless of voltage.

Plotting the same data as a function of power suggests that the charging input really is more a ~250W input assuming you manage to hit 28V, and more like 160W if your panels operate at a more 12V-nominal 18V maximum power point, which is not ideal for such a large station.

Thermal Profile

With such a big chassis and a lot of material inside, it’s no surprise that the exterior temperature is relatively low even under heavy loads. From the front, the outer only reached just shy of 35 degrees C, with the heat mostly concentrating on the left, as that is where the heat exhausts from.

Over the top, the temperature remained within 35 degrees C.

Peering through the side vents, internally, the temperature appeared to be up to around 50 degrees C, which is quite reasonable.

Standby Power

Using PWRVIEW in IEC 62301 mode, the standby power with no outputs enabled measured 5.5W.

In UPS mode with the output on, the power curves down (due to relays warming up) to settle at a power of about 10.9W. This is not particularly great but is quite a bit more acceptable than the DJI Power 1000’s 28.8W.

UPS Change-Over Time

Measuring change-over time is a but tricky as the mains waveform seemed to come back but that could have been capacitive coupling due to low load. Most optimistically, I’d say the switch-over from mains to inverter occurred in 30ms, but it could have been as long as 50ms.

Another two more attempts and the switch-over time was 42ms and 18ms respectively. This suggests that the speed of changeover may depend on where in the mains phase the power loss occurs and/or the output loading.

A final fourth attempt measured 34ms, in-between the measurements made so far. It’s not a very consistent performance.

Going from inverter to mains is a consistent 16ms across attempts.

Inverter AC Waveform Quality

The output is a pure sine wave with an accurate voltage and frequency. The first spur is about 48dB below the fundamental.

Under 150W load, the difference reduces to about 44dB. This seems quite acceptable, although the output does appear to have a slight DC offset (the probe had been zeroed to re-confirm this).

Conclusion

I think that the Anker Solix F1200 (Anker PowerHouse 757) is a decent offering considering its 2022 heritage. It is aesthetically elegant, functionally sturdy and easy-to-use, but is also no-frills without any remote control capability. It stays quiet under a majority of use cases, with only a slight hissy coil whine and the occasional fan “roar” during charging. While the LCD provides easy-to-read remaining charge percentage, the remaining time and instantaneous power readings are de-prioritised and are quite small. The AC and DC outputs are well regulated and clean.

Perhaps the biggest downside is that the sturdiness comes with a weight penalty, being 19.9kg making it less portable than other stations of this capacity class. Some of the original capacity may have been lost to ageing while in storage, resulting in lower discharge efficiency estimations. Cycle-efficiency is still within range at 65.2% based on the 150W discharge data and AC charging data – not the best and not the worst, but it is bested by the DJI Power 1000 at 67.7%. While the idle power consumption of 5.5W is not anything special, UPS mode consumption was 10.9W which seems in-line with other units of the era and is better than the DJI Power 1000’s egregious 28.8W. The inverter output power of 1500W (1700W surge) seems enough for a lot of loads, and the 60W/100W USB-C ports aren’t too bad, the USB-A ports did lack support for many alternative legacy fast-charging modes. Solar charging input is relatively limited depending on the voltage of your panel and doesn’t seem to automatically wake the station each morning.

One risk is the UPS functionality – while inverter to mains seemed consistently fast at 16ms, going from mains to inverter was a lot more variable, with a number of measurements ranging in-between 18 to 50ms which might not be fast enough for more sensitive linear-based power supplies.

In all, for the price, I think it was a fair purchase especially given the five year warranty and likely better-quality components than low-end power-stations of today. It has been running solidly for a couple of months now without any signs of errors. As long as you’re aware of the limitations, it’s definitely still a very solid power station at a good price. Too bad this one’s off the market now … so perhaps a new one will be coming soon. Perhaps they might improve upon efficiency which seems to be a key limitation of many current stations.


I hope you enjoyed this power station review. There’s another to come as the data gets processed, as I’ve already made some investments into a few units thanks to the Solar Sharer Offer. I hope to make this site a bit of a “home” for some more power station reviews in the future … but one person can only afford to buy so many! If you’re a company and you’re interested in contributing one for review, then take on my review challenge and reach out.

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Review: ALIENTEK T90B 140W Smart USB-C Soldering Iron

If you’re an electronics enthusiast or a maker, chances are, you’ve had to use a soldering iron at some point in your life, whether to build something new or to modify and repair something that already exists. Anyone serious about soldering will vouch for the necessity of a temperature-controlled soldering station, but they can be somewhat pricey as an initial investment, and their design mostly lends themselves to being on the bench.

But what if you’re the sort of person that gets called out into the field (e.g. a relative’s house) for a quick repair? Or perhaps you’ve got a wire to join or a connector to populate, but it’s in your car? Lugging around a soldering station isn’t ideal especially when power is not readily available. In those cases, a USB-C PD-based soldering iron is a good compromise. In the past few years, they’ve advanced quite a bit with the increasing popularity of higher-power EPR power supplies and power banks.

In this post, I’ll be reviewing the ALIENTEK T90B Smart Soldering Iron, which is powered via USB-C PD at up to 140W and uses JBC-style T245 compatible cartridge tips. As someone who’s soldered with the high-end (Metcal, Weller, Ersa) and the more reasonably-priced (Hakko, Atten) stations on a regular basis, will the ALIENTEK T90B be useful enough to find a spot in my tool bag?

Thanks to ALIENTEK for submitting this for review under the review challenge terms, via Platima (YouTube | GitHub).

Unboxing

The box arrived shrink-wrapped, with the front of the box showing a hero-photo of the soldering iron.

The rear provides a number of key specifications, along with a QR code for the user manual. The T90B that I am reviewing is part of a family of irons – the T90A which is a smaller fine-work oriented unit that uses T210 cartridges, the T90B that is more of a general purpose iron that uses T245 cartridges and the T90C that uses T65 tips.

The sides of the box provides some indications of the key features of the unit.

Rather than use disposable packaging, ALIENTEK have nicely decided to use a plastic box which can serve as a case for the unit throughout its life. I definitely appreciate this very thoughtful and consumer-friendly way to package their product.

The interior of the plastic box is well laid out, using foam to hold the included items in position.

The inclusions are an information card, a stand, a USB-C to USB-C cable and the T90B soldering iron.

The top half of the unit has an LCD with a protective cover. The ALIENTEK logo is printed above the screen and the model is on the cover. Below that is the two buttons (A and B) and a rubber grip.

On one end is the USB-C socket for power and data. The cap is secured using a bayonet (push and twist to lock) mechanism.

The body is made of a nice aluminium alloy. The metal cap is a nice touch, matching the rest of the body, safely covering up the warm tip after use. The tip cartridges, as with the JBC system it’s based on, is simply a pull-out and push-in affair, making it easy to change.

The pre-installed cartridge appears to be marked T245-KU BK with the ALIENTEK logo. This appears to be a knife-chisel style tip – I’m more of a conical tip user myself, but I can work with this too …

The included stand is made of silicone and has the ALIENTEK branding printed on one side. A small sponge is included for tip-cleaning, which I don’t mind, but will require water. Brass-wool users will have to supply their own.

The supplied USB-C to USB-C cable has a nice solid plug on both ends, with the ALIENTEK logo moulded into the ends. The cable is silicone-sheathed to avoid burning.

When placed on the stand, the iron stands with the tip safely raised above the bench surface with the iron at an angle. With the stand, there is no risk of the iron rolling away either.

User Experience

In this section, I focus on the user experience, looking at the user interface and how it handles a number of common tasks.

User Interface

The iron is relatively straightforward to operate – plug in USB-C power, watch the display and interact with the two buttons on the barrel – A and B. The buttons are placed high-enough that they are unlikely to be inadvertently pushed. Interactions are via short and long-presses of each button, which can be a bit tedious at first, but thankfully the menus are only really necessary for configuration. Once you’ve set up the T90B to your liking, you probably won’t need to worry about them.

While starting up, it displays the ALIENTEK logo. It starts up with the iron turned off, and a press of the A button closest to the tip is needed to start the iron.

 

The user interface has three presets – the currently active one is displayed in blue. The current temperature is displayed in large red font, while the bar underneath indicates the power status. The fine details about the available power is on the right, showing real-time voltage, current and power.

The menu can be invoked with both A and B pressed and is displayed two lines at a time.

Voltage information gives you information about your power source and the tip resistance. The unit will self-diagnose improper tip installation or heater failure.

Other settings can be configured such as the temperature step, preset, sleep temperature, sleep and standby timeouts.

The power mode can be manually set to a lower value if you’re experiencing issues with power supplies cutting out under load. The auto mode will use the highest power available – this is recommended in most circumstances and it makes good sense because the higher wattage means faster heat recovery and better soldering experience. Because of the temperature regulation, the power is cut back once the tip reaches temperature – old advice to stick to lower wattage irons for delicate work does not apply! Power trim allows for fine adjustments of the power.

Localisation is available to change the temperature unit and language. The unit can also be set to start up automatically rather than require a button press.

A temperature offset can be set to improve the calibration. My T90B came with firmware V1.1.1.

You can long-press the B button to put the iron to sleep which keeps it at a lower temperature to be ready to start-up quickly. This is also automatically invoked after the time-out, based on the inductive sensing to know if the iron is in the hand. If the unit is connected to a 5V-only supply, the screen will display “Vol low”  – the soldering iron absolutely requires 9V at a minimum to operate.

If you’re really lost regarding the menus and features, the firmware download package also has the user manual which is quite comprehensive and readable.

Firmware Update

As it turns out, the firmware that was pre-loaded on the T90B that I received was not the latest. Firmware and the updater tool can be downloaded from ALIENTEK’s product page.

The tool loads in Chinese by default. It was only after I updated the firmware that I realised the language can be changed using the drop-down menu. You can choose to load the firmware and logo file at the same time, or just one at a time.

In my case, the firmware update went smoothly and I was able to load the English version of the boot-up logo. The new firmware improved the display rotation and added the option to disable the beeper, but otherwise remains unchanged.

Soldering Jobs

To fairly assess the soldering iron’s potential, I decided to use it as my primary soldering iron for a couple of weeks. That meant, despite having a Weller, Metcal and an Atten on the bench, I would use the ALIENTEK T90B – no excuses.

In my week, I was wiring up a few transfer switch boxes and needed to solder 2.5mm^2 copper wire to lugs on an IEC socket. This is probably a bit much for the knife-type tip to handle, but I managed to do it just fine with leaded solder. The tip could pass enough heat into the joint before the wire wicked it away, but the higher-temperature required for lead-free solder made this a bit tricky. Perhaps it would be better if I had a chisel or wider conical tip rather than a knife tip.

I came across an old Ktec-style plug-pack with bad capacitors that needed a quick swap. Squeezing off the top case, I managed to swap out three capacitors …

… with the main challenge being the tight confines due to not wanting to desolder the input lugs from the PCB. The thin general-purpose tip made it easy to sneak in and wiggle out the old caps, wick up the remaining solder and solder in new capacitors.

Speaking of wick, desoldering is one of those tasks that needs quite a bit of power to do effectively. But it was no challenge – the T90B managed this external drive power supply with ease, especially as a single-sided board.

Here’s a wider shot of the task on my workbench – this time it was replacing the primary high-voltage DC electrolytic capacitor.

Being less of a heat-sink, I managed to solder this with leaded solder …

… and lead-free (slightly less shiny) solder with no problems at all.

Final Thoughts

In all, I found the T90B to be exceptionally handy and good enough to replace my primary iron for a majority of tasks. Part of the reason it wasn’t quite able to cover every task is due to the knife-type tip that is included that has a limited amount of contact area and size. Perhaps a larger collection of tips would help.

In use, the heat-up is quite rapid at 140W, to the point that it feels practically as good as my Weller in terms of “pick-up and go” solderability, managing to heat up within three seconds. The “inductive” hand detection worked very reliably, with a “dot” on the display to indicate sensor status which accurately reflected whether the iron was “in-hand” or on the bench. While the T90B will work with lower-powered supplies, I found soldering at 18-20W with smaller power banks to be very frustrating for anything but joining thinner wires or doing smaller PCB tasks. Perhaps in an emergency, it’s better than nothing, but I’d recommend at least 60W for a usable soldering experience. The main downside at 60W is a slight wait of a few more seconds for it to come up to temperature, but it seems that once up-to-temperature, it handles quite well.

The supplied e-Marked cable that supports USB-C PD EPR has a silicone sheath, which is great for avoiding potentially burning the cord, and is connected-through for data so that firmware updates can be made using the included cable. But it is slightly thick and heavy, so compared to my higher end soldering stations, it’s not as easy to manoeuvre. But it’s far from the PVC “stiffness” of my older Atten station. The length is quite good at 1.2m, especially when used with a power bank which is my preferred configuration as that lets you easily reposition your work and reach awkward places that an ordinary soldering station would find hard.

The rubber grip feels nice and never seems to get beyond a comfortably warm at the front edge. It doesn’t seem to be conductive though and the finish on the soldering iron doesn’t seem to make good conduction. This means that the iron could be an ESD risk for sensitive chips – while the tip is connected directly to the shield of the USB-C connector, only some power supplies connect this to ground. Where you are using a power bank or many “two-prong” un-Earthed power supplies, the tip will “float” and may have a voltage on it that could be bad for ESD-sensitive devices. It would be nice if there is a way to connect an Earth to the iron itself to guarantee the tip is at a safe voltage, but until then, I’d recommend using an Earthed USB-C PD power supply (e.g. the ones supplied with laptops) if handling ESD-sensitive components.

The included silicone stand and sponge is basic, but better than some of the folded-metal style stands offered by other basic kits. It’s definitely more reusable and the sponge, while small, is enough for a small tip and occasional use. The inclusion of a plastic case to keep the kit together is also a nice bonus and the metal cover also means what you can sheath the hot tip and pack it away without risk of burns.

Unfortunately, there is no teardown in this review, as I did try but then I got stuck and discovered that it cannot be done easily or non-destructively. That being said, given the (likely) simplicity of the circuitry, short of bricking the firmware or wanting to modify/repair it, I don’t see myself wanting to take it apart. It feels so solidly built and elegantly simple as it’s just PWM-ing the USB-C PD power that I feel it should be quite reliable, but only time will tell.

Testing

This section has results measured using test equipment.

Weight

The soldering pencil, with tip, measured 39.77g on my set of scales. This excludes the cable and is roughly similar with many of the handpieces I have. The handpiece doesn’t feel specifically front or rear-weighted, which makes for comfortable handling.

e-Marked Cable

The FNB58 recognises the e-Mark chip in the cable as supporting 50V/5A, therefore supporting up to 250W. It is great the cable is included, as this means no worrying about finding EPR-capable cables that won’t be accidentally burnt.

Absolute Temperature Calibration

To test the temperature, I used a Weller WCU thermocouple-based temperature meter.

It seems that the temperature is a bit low at all settings – 350 degrees C measured 330.1 degrees C (~20 degrees C low)

At 450 degrees C, it measured 416 degrees C (~34 degrees C low) and at 200 degrees C, it measured 186.1 degrees C (~13 degrees C low). I could have used the temperature calibration setting to null-out the error in the middle, but because there’s a bit of a “curve” to the error, it would not result in accurate temperature across the scale.

However, even with the temperature offset, the fact that the unit regulates temperature just means that you need to set temperatures which work better for your purposes. I quickly changed the presets to more reasonable ones.

Thermal Image

Using the Thermal Master P3, I took a thermal image of the T90B handpiece without the tip to see what the temperature of the handle would be after some prolonged soldering.

Overall, the handle remains pretty cool – the middle of the handle was at 31 degrees C. The hottest part was 53.1 degrees C, which was the metallic collar near the tip cartridge itself, while the rubber grip was a slightly more comfortable temperature, feeling only slightly warm and not at all uncomfortable.

Power Input Behaviour

Initially, I tried to measure the power consumption directly using the Fnirsi FNB58 tester, but the rapid PWM made for a very messy graph even at the highest sample rate that the tester was capable of. The T90B seems to be switching the input hard, therefore, the meter is measuring 5A or near-zero, most of the time, with the duty changing depending on the load.

Using the Rohde and Schwarz MXO4 oscilloscope, watching the power supply voltage, I was able to determine the initial warm-up time of almost exactly three seconds, confirming the claimed specifications.

During heat-up, it seems there’s a short hiccup every 100ms (10Hz). Once fully warmed up, the PWM seems to be at 20ms intervals (50Hz).

Temperature Stability

High-rate temperature measurement was performed using a B&K Precision DAS240 multi-channel process recorder.

The warm-up curve doesn’t quite meet the three-second specification because the measuring thermocouple applies a load to the tip and wicks away some of the heat. There is also a slight lag in response of the thermocouple. Regardless, the warm-up curve is mostly smooth, with no signs of overshoot.

Once warmed up, I left it to run until it timed out, so over the space of around three minutes, the temperature seemed to creep up by almost four degrees Celsius. This isn’t particularly significant and can be considered relatively stable.

Upon expiry of the timeout, the unit goes into 200 degrees C standby for a bit before turning off and cooling naturally.

To more strenuously test the iron, I decided to get my Wolfbox MF100 to blow on the tip and create thermal load in a nearly step-load.

While the unit heated up to about 332 degrees C to start with, after it was blown on by the air duster several times in quick succession, the iron recovered quickly and did not overshoot, settling comfortably in the 324-326 degrees C range. This indicates a stable PID control algorithm.

Conclusion

The ALIENTEK T90B definitely impressed me. As a package, it was nicely finished with a handpiece that is well-balanced with a solid build quality with its aluminium alloy body. The kit includes a plastic case, silicone-based stand with cleaning sponge and a 1.2m silicone-sheathed USB-C to USB-C PD EPR e-Marked cable. The unit comes with a T245-KU knife-type tip, which may be a bit small for some work, but it is a common JBC style cartridge which can easily be replaced.

Having used the unit as my primary soldering iron for two weeks, it managed to handle most of the soldering and desoldering tasks with aplomb, leaded and lead-free, albeit slightly limited by the contact area of the included tip. With 140W support, when used with a power bank, it results in a portable soldering set-up that can reach places that traditional stations find difficult. Despite being portable, it is in no way compromised with three-second warm-up, accurate inductive sensing, configurable easy-to-use highly-informative user interface and tip-preserving sleep modes. Tip temperatures were consistent without overshoot and the rubber grip remained at a comfortable temperature even on longer soldering sessions.

The key drawbacks include a high temperature offset out-of-the-box which can be tuned out using the menus and the potential issue of ESD safety, depending on what power source you use, as there doesn’t seem to be an easy earthing point. Floating sources of power could develop some stray voltages. Finally, disassembly is a bit complicated, unlike earlier designs.

In the end, it’s hard to deny the T90B’s versatility and utility, especially considering its price. Whether it’s a first soldering-iron for someone starting out, or an iron for someone who’s a seasoned service technician, it’s exceptionally handy and will be in my tool bag for sure!

If you’re interested in a T90B for yourself, or its smaller (T90A) or bigger (T90C) cousins, you can find more information at ALIENTEK’s site and purchase from their official AliExpress and Amazon stores.

Thanks to ALIENTEK for providing this unit for review.

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