Since my most recent trip to Israel, my favorite summer entertaining format has been salatim, Hebrew for “salads,” a do-ahead array of small cold plates, condiments and flatbreads that guests dip, scoop, spread, tear and combine to their hearts’ content. No courses to manage or food to keep hot, and only enough people to crowd comfortably around the table, so that all the food is within reach — and so is the conversation.Salatim are a kind of mezze, the traditional selection of small…