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A very nice looking awning/boiler deck/shade deck, Keith. John

Hello Steve, and a warm welcome to the forum from 'Down Under'. John

I have been steaming or soaking in boiling water then clamping in place with shims for a slight over bend to allow for spring back. Once dried overnight I glue with wood glue and clamp until set.

Copper plating the other side of the hull continues, I have made reasonably good progress today and feel the end is in sight in the next few days. I will be adding a 1mm square batten to neaten up the copper plating along the waterline. For the most part I have made a better job of this side of the hull. I will need to redo the copper plates fitted up to the waterline, as can be seen in the photo below. The copper plates will be buffed cleaned. I will need to revisit on small area, as indicated by the yellow arrow as for some unknown reason I had a senior moment. I also need to replace the upper most right hand copper plate .

I only use CA if I want to secure one end of a particularly difficult plank while I work along it and glue it with wood glue for the rest of the way. Like Bob just said (@Knocklouder), it's down to personal preference but I find CA glue dries too quickly and allows pretty much no readjustment of the plank. Like him I prefer wood glue and clamps - so much more forgiving One thing to think about, and this is only the way I approach planking right now (I am going to try out a new method using a small mini iron to bend the planks on my Lynx build), I soak the planks (first layer only) for about 15 minutes and then clamp/nail them in position (NO GLUE) overnight to let them take the required shape. When they are dry and shaped, it is a whole lot easier to have them lay correctly while you glue them, you are not fighting against the wood and they don't spring back once glued (you may still need to secure them while they dry, depending on the curve etc.).

It is a rule of thumb given on the 1794/1795 abstract and its notes - as such it is not 'official' nor specific to the ordering. The carronade is *usually* on a slide fixed to a fighting bolt, and as such it is best fitted to the second place on the forecastle - the gun on a truck carriage is much more easily shifted to a new position... However, the carronade is generally a lighter ordnance which could relieve strain on the hull... and it is possible to supply a truck carriage with a joint rather than trunnion brackets which can be shifted as a variant carriage, which would allow a carronade to be shifted easily, and there are options to unship a fighting bolt from a slide, and to move the slide carriage to a different fighting bolt. Forward there is less interference between arcs, the carronade muzzle and shrouds/lines, bur once the carronade had been lengthened and the 'outboard' fighting bolt was adopted for most carronades (which should align with the 1798 'general order for quarterdeck carronades'), then the difficulties this caused would be reduced. The French even preferred to use non recoiling slides (short breechings) soon after the adoption of caronades generally, and the British used both, but I have nothing on which ships or dates that should apply. Victory, as at Trafalgar had struck or exchanged down it's forecastle 12pdrs and used only the pair of 68s as chase ordnance. These were also the only exposed ordnance on the weather decks, all 8 of the QD decks were under the stairs or the roundhouse deck, and the waist was mostly closed. This is of course a later armament (and not her official one), but there is scope for vessels to both have unique authorised establishments on application and for changes to be made with forgiveness to be asked, rather than permission sought. A 'typical' 74 is much less well recorded - most continually repeat the 1794 establishment of guns, without adding/substituting the carronades allowed. Almost all fleet lists in common distribution just repeat the 'plain' armament for most ships, even after carronades become common, then widespread for castles armament. Same with frigates which often repeat the 1794 'carronade added' formula, although later fitting also substitute all or almost all spar deck guns by the early C19th.

That is a good call. It would be a disaster to ruin this beautiful piece with a slight slip of the brush so to speak 😉

Thanks Greg. We have a saying; "The tool works but the hand boasts". Proper tools really make my life a lot easier.

Thanks Jon. I tried to make the spokes out of wood but they were really thin and broke during the turning process. It turned out I needed a drawplate but for now I'll have to make do with metal spokes.

Just stumbled across your build. What a treat to see your process and product! I have in my possession a Florida Sharpie that was built by an unknown modeler that I have been working on (it needed some repair). It is also scratch from Chapeles collection. Part of my problem has been how to finish off the haliyards etc. as there are obvious restrictions. The smithsonian plan I have shows no rigging. Was wondering what your reference was. Joe

Copy arrived in today’s mail. Thanks !

I don't know how I missed this build, great work, now I am here, you are inspiring me to get back to my build. Tim

Steve, Glad to have another “near to Boston” ship modeler. Be most welcome! tom

I have airbrushed with Model Masters Acrylics using a thinner mixture I found on "CYBERMODEL", Distilled water, isopropyl alcohol, flow improver and flow retarder. Used the thinner with Vallejo, AK, Model Shipways paints as well. Just water did not work very well, clogged quickly. Tech Tip: Make Your Own Acrylic Thinner Have only airbrushed acrylics on small items/areas using this thinner. No problems to note. Actually, did not know Model Masters had an airbrush thinner!

Thanks, that makes significantly more sense! I did a fake eye splice on the Canoa de Rancho build, but didn't think to use it here because I was worried that it wouldn't work with the line already served. But perhaps it would work, I suppose I would be serving back over the splice so any disruption to the original serving wouldn't be seen.

That’ll be me for a bit, next post shall hope to have aft hull completed 👍 thanks for looking 🤛

One photo there is another person’s building and their fix on said problem of hull, this just shows how far out the hull actually is. Incidentally the small holes in the thin skin are me fixing air bubbles that have formed where liquid cement hasn’t quite caught the skin, just add a bit more cement through these holes and then fill and sand 👍 Also decided possibly to motorise propellers so have used 2mm brass rod for shafts and have purchased suitable bearings, shall put them in and take photo.

Looks pretty good to me.

Making slow progress on rigging. I've finished ratlines and back stays, and I just added yards. It's starting to look like a ship. Starting work on jeers and ties. Here's a few photos showing current status. I would post more photos, but I'm finding it difficult to take photos of rigging and show anything other than a jumble of lines (could do closeups, but you don't want to see my work close up!) I'm having to take a few shortcuts, especially with knots. I've always had trouble with rigging and working with the tiny blocks, and after cataract surgery I don't see as well closeup, especially depth perception. But I want to get it finished, so doing the best I can.

Hallo ihr Lieben, ich habe die letzten Tage an den Segeln gebastelt. Zuerst muss ich feststellen, dass die Schneiderin die Form ziemlich vermasselt hat, aber das seht ihr ja selbst. Die meisten sind auch nicht breit genug, nur zwei passen richtig auf die Rah. Also habe ich erstmal Spitze aufgenäht. Ich habe eigentlich handelsübliche Paketschnur verwendet, das war das Einzige im Haus, das die richtige Dicke hatte. Da die Segel keine Ecken hatten, habe ich die Schnur nicht zum Formen der Halteschlaufen verwendet. Das muss ich mir anders überlegen. Anschließend habe ich sie mit etwas Tee behandelt und gewachst, damit sie im Licht etwas schimmern. Also werde ich in den nächsten Tagen die Segel hissen. Pass auf dich auf Übersetzt mit DeepL.com (kostenlose Version)

'Glad to have you aboard!

'Really super ! ... Its amazing to see what can be done in a card medium.

Filling out the hull between the stern keel and the outer port and starboard shaft housings is probably the hardest part of fixing the hull, theirs no quick or easy way here, you just have to build up the hull with strips of styrene and contour it till you think you’re happy, takes ages, am just about there now, shall be less difficult after this part, at least that’s what lm telling myself 😂 got some more thin styrene sheet grafted onto hull, can see it starting to change now, some more photos now.

it's Vallejo Black/grey, makes for a better scale effect I think. For the same reason I tend to use lesser whites - White/grey and Ivory rather than pure white. B.E.

Absolutely excellent work, Mustafa! You really do make it look simple. Getting those drill holes spaced such that each of the rods fit perfectly. Impressive, sir! And, yes, the proper tools certainly help! I have the dividing attachment, as well, for my drill press and mill but have not used it yet. Dividing Attachment for MF 70 – PROXXON Inc Nice to see how it can be used for making these measured cuts.