Outfitting a sea kayak

Here is a summary of the outfitting and modifications that I do to my kayaks.
Not all kayaks have the same amount of work done and some outfitting is not shown here.
Some kayaks have more work than this one but those modifications (camera mounts) are not relevant to general paddling.
Most of the work depicted here is only possible on a composite lay-up and I use exclusively West System for my fiberglassing.
I currently don't have any ruddered kayaks in my fleet so there are not details of previous modification done to rudders.
Here is on overview of outfitting of a recently acquired British style kayak.



The numbers are referring to modification or additions that I have permanently attached to the kayak. Other items that are added for a particular outing are not depicted.
Each item that is light-blue has a hot-link pointing to the relevant article in GnarlyDog News.


Bow
1) retractable grab handle, replacing factory looped ones
2) pulley (block) for Flat Earth sail. Attached to deck anchor via Dyneema line
3) short tether line for quick anchor to piers (no article)
4) mast base for Flat Earth sail;  under-deck is reinforced
5) recessed anchor for side stays (sail). Dyneema loops
6) protective tape for mast/boom joiner (possibly scraping deck when sail lowered_no article).
7) 3M Dual-Lock fastener for removable compass (often removed when surfing).
8) pulley (block) for boom of Flat Earth sail. Secured with recess anchor and Dyneema loop


Midship
9) bungee loop for stowing lowered sail
10) cam-cleat for trimming boom
11) slim profile tow-line
12) cleat for up-haul on sail
13) paddle leash (anchor point)
14) magnetic switch for bilge pump
15) replacement DIY fiberglass seat
16) replacement back-band: Immersion Research (no article)
17) electric bilge pump
18) bilge pump outlet, away from the cockpit to prevent water being pumped back in
19) drinking system (below deck)


Stern
20)  protective "deck thread" tape for spare paddle (prevent scuffing)
21)  retractable grab handle
22) clip-on flag for car topping transport (removed before launch_no article)

SHOP: modifying a Tahe Greenland seat and cockpit

Tahe Marine Greenland is one of the few production kayaks specifically designed for Greenland style rolling.

Very low volume and low rear deck allow for advance moves that in most other kayaks are much harder to perform. A low rear deck promotes laybacks where the paddler can honestly lay with his/her back on the rear deck.

Some paddlers find that the position of the seat in the Greenland is a bit too close to the rear coaming and that the back band is a little bit uncomfortable. When laying back there can be localized pressure on the spine against the rim of the coaming.

Below is an example of a highly modified cockpit of a Tahe Greenland, customized to the needs and body shape of the owner of the kayak.

The seat has been moved forward and the fabric back band has been removed.

Thin closed cell foam (minicell) has been added to strategic points to alleviate pressure on the pelvis bone.

The back band has been replaced by a custom made contoured fibreglass extension of the existing seat that is hinged for behind-the-seat access.



Located behind the seat is an electric bilge pump that allows quick removal of water that might have entered during launch in rough waters. The Greenland has very little freeboard (that's the nature of low deck kayaks) and launching on shores with waves can be tricky trying to avoid flooding. The solid backrest pivots on stainless steel bolts anchored into the coaming. The flanges of the cockpit coaming have been extended to allow for the seat to be moved forward.

The owner of this Greenland found the stock Tahe seat a bit short and not supportive enough for long paddles. He wanted more support under his legs and modified the seat with fibreglass "wing" extensions, padded with closed cell foam. He also modified the underside of the deck to create "cradles" for his thighs and have a more positive area for boat control. Perfectly shaped closed cell foam now engages his thighs exactly the way he wants it.

Visible is also a custom made under deck "glove box".

View inside the kayak showing supports for the seat extensions.



UPDATE 13DEC12
After receiving numerous emails asking for details on the procedure for the above mods, here are some additional images of work in progress.

EPS foam plug in place of back band


lay-up with carbon/Kevlar and fibreglass

.

Bilge pump system for sea kayaks_patent pending?

In late 2007 I published my installation for a sea kayak electric bilge pump (on QSKC website_ it has been recently removed by the current webmaster).
I published a variation of that installation on this blog in 2009.
The article has attracted a tremendous amount of interest and I have seen links to my article appear on many websites around the world.
USA, British and German readers are particularly interested in the set up.

Recently I have found a manufacturer that appears to offer the same set up commercially.



There are no details (images or drawings) of the system but it lists the components that are the same as my documented items.
The video on their website seems to replicate the identical set up as mine.
However what intrigued me is the mention of a magnetic switch for the activation of the pump (Bluewater website: "Sealed switch, waterproof, dustproof, operated by a sliding magnet that runs on your deck bunge cord")
To my knowledge, I was the first to publish the idea of the switch, even though it is not my invention.
I am not aware of any other publication showing the magnetic switch assembly.

I do know that manufacturers occasionally scan my blog for ideas and some actually use my findings on their products.
There is nothing wrong with that, or I would keep my tinkering ideas to myself.
What makes me a bit dubious is the fact that Bluewater claims a pending patent to the system.
Bluewater makes no mention of the alleged patent number (most manufacturer don’t divulge that) but I have not been able to find any documentation of such patent in my searches.

There are a couple of scenarios: Bluewater could have applied for a patent that is not directly related to the bilge pump system that I have documented or they are just bluffing to scare competition away.
Bluewater has not replied to my queries of patent application date, and probably won’t :-)

If Bluewater has applied for a patent of the existing system, it will not be valid.
The electric bilge pump system has been used for some time now (documented on several websites) and the magnetic switch documentation is not recent (Feb 2008)

Gnarlydog News ideas are published for the benefit of the private public and not for the monopolization from the industry.
I want to keep sharing my findings with fellow adventurers that might benefit from my projects.

SHOP: Electric bilge pump switch

I have written about the installation of an electric bilge pump in a sea kayak here.
While the install seems nothing out of the ordinary and has been done many times over by keen sea kayakers, the switch to activate the pump remains the sticky point for most installs.
The switch is also the culprit that gives electric bilge pumps the reputation for being unreliable.
I started off with the standard toggle switch that some kayak manufacturers (Mirage for example) use as factory install.

available in Australia at Whitworths
The switch is inexpensive and only a relatively small hole needs to be drilled through the deck of the kayak.
A rubber booth protects the internal moving parts and makes it waterproof.
Unfortunately the booth is prone to get a hole in it and inevitably the switch fails making the pump inoperable.
Often is the UV, the salt water or abrasion that hole the booth.
Replacing the booth frequently only limits the problems but not fully addresses it.
I have seen some installations of bilge pumps using an air switch that is commonly used in kitchen sink garbage disposals.

available at Costco
I have never used one but I hear that occasionally it switches the pump on without activation form the user. Apparently the air that is in the line from the button to the actual switch can expand in hot weather and trigger the pump. If not noticed (like during car top transport) it will flatten the battery.
The air switch is rather expensive (AU$130) and needs a large hole drilled on the deck to install the button. The button protrudes deep below deck.

I have been using a DIY magnetic switch that needs no holes drilled for its operation.
The switch is made of two 3 parts: the magnet, the reed and the relay.

magnet on deck reed switch encased in epoxy
The reed is the actual switch activated by the magnet and the relay is the "booster" that is needed to run the pump. The reed alone is not strong enough to run the bilge pump.
Since the magnet and the reed are totally enclosed in epoxy resin they are very durable and there are no parts to wear out or needing maintenance.
Some kayakers have been discouraged by the complexity of manufacturing a magnetic switch and have rather used the other alternatives or opted for a fully automatic bilge pump.

The commercially available automatic bilge pumps work on the principle of switching-on periodically (commonly every two minutes) and switching itself off if no resistance (water) is detected. Such pumps need to be connected to the battery before every paddle and disconnected afterwords, or the battery will run flat eventually by the intermittent activation of the pump.
Having the pump periodically switchig on for no reason (testing the "waters") while paddling can be annoying.These pumps usually cost 3 times as much as conventional electric bilge pumps and are bulkier making installs behind the seat in some cases not possible (there is not enough room).

There is also the option of automatic activation of the pump using a float switch.
When the water level in the cockpit of the kayak rises high enough to float the switch , the pump gets turned on.
Often these switches need a relatively high water level to turn on and occasionally fail.
A paddler will be sitting in a few inches of water before the pump goes off.
The float switch will also swtich-on if the kayak is turned upside down.
In a few cases the user forgot to switch the pump off while the kayak was inverted ending up with a flat battery.

Just recently I have come across a very neat small automatic switch that activates the pump by "detecting" water (available in Australia at Whitworths).

Witch Switch water sensor switch
The sensor will switch the pump on if it detects water covering it.
The witch switch can be installed in any position and low enough to activate the pump even lower water levels are present in the cockpit.
While I have not tried the switch (I am happy with my magnetic one) this unit sounds promising.
I guess it could be a good alternative for a pump install where the fabrication of the magnetic switch is just too daunting.
The company offers a 7 years warranty on the switch giving the user confidence in their product.
Rule does make a new automatically switched pump that uses the same technology in their switch but the pump will only activate at water level above 2-3/4" (70 mm).

The Rule Mate pump is also rather bulky and only kayaks with plenty of room behind the seat will accommodate its size.
The Witch Switch can be positioned to activate at much lower water level than that leaving a dryer cockpit.

PS:Steve Foreman has alerted me of this great option for an electric bilge pump set up. While I am a bit puzzled at all the electronic components (I am no engineer, obviously) it's good to see that there are options out there.

SHOP: recess in bulkhead

In a previous post I have documented the installation of an electric bilge pump in an fiberglass kayak.
In most kayaks there is enough room to position the pump behind the seat.
Recently I was installing a pump in an Impex Montauk where the bulkhead is very close to the seat.
This bulkhead minimizes cockpit volume and aids the empting of water in a T-rescue however complicates the installation of an electric bilge pump.
Measuring the distance between seat and bulkhead there was not enough room for the Rule 500 pump.


The bulkhead had to be modified and a recess created to accommodate the pump.
I made a half moon shaped fiberglass channel that would be used to recess the bulkhead.
I used double bias cloth, epoxy and a soda plastic bottle to create the piece.
I outlined the shape of the tube on the bulkhead and estimated the cut-out. The bulkhead is convex and curved; an exact outline was hard to guess so I undersized the cut-out.


I used a high speed drill with a small cut-off wheel to make easy work of cutting fiberglass. Wearing a respirator was essential since there was a lot of fiberglass dust created with cutting and shaping the hole.


I then tried to fit the tube against the cut-out and redefined the correct shape needed with a sanding wheel on my drill.
The base (return) of the bulkhead had to be removed from the hull to make a flush recess for the pump.
I had to be careful not to cut into the hull.

Once the tube had a good fit the area was cleaned off of silicon, grease and dirt with acetone. I used electrical tape to hold in place while I epoxyed it to the bulkhead with 1” fiberglass tape.
After leaving it cure overnight I removed the excess flange with the cut off wheel.
I filled any little gap with epoxy/microfiber slurry.

The recess was now ready to accept the pump.
Installation proceeded as per any other pump installed in this article.

The final install of the Rule 500 bilge pump shown with a loop in the outlet hose to prevent water from waves reentering the cockpit

SHOP: custom foot bilge pump

I have previously detailed the installation of an electric bilge pump.
Here I am depicting an alternative: a foot pump.

Greg Schwarz is a master in kayak modification (see his cockpit rim mods!) and he can create precision parts from fiberglass, carbon and epoxy.
After installing an electric bilge pump in his wife's Avocet LV he wanted to compare it to a foot bilge pump.
Not satisfied with the commercially available one he designed and fabricated his own one. The pump is a modified manual hand pump that was sourced at a marine chandlery.
The handle has been removed and a custom foot bracket made to optimize the action of the pump.

foot pump mounted in cockpit of a Nordkapp LV.
A reinforcing plate is mounted on the bulkhead. This version of a foot pump is mounted on the bulkhead instead of on a bracket off the foot pegs(http://www.hybridaustralia.com/).
Needless to say that a kayak must be just the right size for you with the forward bulkhead close enough to have this set up.

Extensive modelling has been done to achieve the right pedal size and leverage.

The strum box is enlarged to allow wider pick up and increase water flow.


details of the pedal: a custom one-off (no mold) unit made from fiberglass, carbon and epoxy.

strum box detail
The pump works extremely well and empties a flooded cockpit almost as fast as a Rule 500 electric bilge pump.
If your idea for a bilge pump does not include electricity, this foot pump seems to be probably the best solution.
Unfortunately Greg Schwarz is not interested in producing these units commercially (they would cost almost as much as a kayak, if he had to charge for his time making one).
If you really are confident with your fibreglassing and have the time and patience, this pump could be the inspiration for your version.
Let me know how your project turns out.

SHOP: electric bilge pump in a kayak

It is interesting how some technology seems to be more popular in one country than others.
Sails and electric bilge pumps are way more popular in Australia than anywhere else; skegged kayaks are more popular in Great Britain than Downunder or the Americas.
But let’s look at the bilge pump.
Like probably most kayakers, I equipped myself with the safety of a trusty hand bilge pump.
I really thought that with that piece of equipment I was ready to take on the rough seas.
I soon realized that even during practice the little pump was kind of, ahem..., a joke, if I was going to rely on it to empty my boat in case of a flooded cockpit in a serious emergency.
While the hand pump has still got its place in a sea kayak (empty a flooded hatch that by accident was left open?...) I don’t regard the little pump sufficient as main safety device.

How was I going to steady myself in my swamped cockpit and balance the kayak using both hands to operate the pump while waves were tossing me around?
It just does not work; not for me.

I am aware of two options for a hands free device that will empty water from the cockpit: a foot pump

commercialy available version


custom fabricated one with carbon

or an electric bilge pump.

I had a kayak with a foot pump and did not work for me. Maybe coz my big feet rub against the deck, maybe because I could not really steady myself while trying to balance the boat and pump with one foot or just because I found the foot pump so painfully slow.
I decided that an electric bilge pump will be my choice.
While certainly not totally foolproof it has a higher percentage of success rate than other devices.
To date I have installed 15 sea kayaks with the Rule 500 bilge pump.

If you are keen to install such pump in a kayak and are a bit handy with tinkering read on.

The pump is brilliant but the switch and installation pose some challenges.
Kayaks that have some room between the seat and the rear bulkhead are best suited to this install.

Components that you will need:

1) bilge pump (my preferred one is Rule 500)
2) Switch (including a small relay; will detail later)
3) Quality electrical wire (figure of eight)
4) Waterproof battery box
5) Small SLA battery
6) Outlet hose
7) Outlet spigot

For tools and supplies:

1) power drill
2) various drill bits (some small and a large one 10mm)
3) round file (or Dremel with attachments)
4) marine sealant (polyurethane, like Sikaflex)
5) soldering iron
6) heatshrink
7) epoxy resin (optional)

Before you start drilling try to suspend your kayak with slings. Working at waist height is easier and later on working inside the cockpit you can turn the kayak belly up and avoid a bad back.
Plan your install carefully considering thoughtfully the location of your outlet spigot, switch and hose route.
Think twice drill once.

The spigot outlet should be in a spot where it is not going to spray water on yourself or back into the cockpit. While it seems that I am stating the obvious I have seen some installs that made it happen. The outlet should also be above waterline, well above it.
The deck seems to be the obvious location.
Enlarge the hole with a file (or Dremel) just big enough for the spigot to fit snugly. No need to be sloppy.

The switch for the pump must be waterproof. I mean it. Electric bilge pumps fail most times because of lousy switches. I used to install pumps using the typical toggle switch with the rubber boot.

Good when new but the boot is prone to be torn or deteriorates in the elements.
I have seen air switches used but they cost a bomb and a large hole has to be drilled to install them.
To date the best solution seems to be a magnetic switch.

Ready made fully sealed burglar alarm switches are available from electronic parts stores but I have trouble envisioning the proper operation on the deck of a kayak.
I fabricate my own ones that require no holes drilled into the deck and so far have been very reliable. See appendix on how to make one.
More info on options available here.

The wiring has to be secured to the underdeck of the kayak. Loose wires will get ripped off while entering/exiting the kayak. It’s only a matter of time. I use polyurethane to secure the wires to the fiberglass inside the kayak.

The battery that powers the electric bilge pump is a 12V. Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) 1.3 Ah.
It almost fits perfectly inside the Pelican #1010. Since the battery is just a smidgen too wide a small section of the lining inside the box MUST be cut out to ensure a good seal when closed.
If you forego this step your box will not keep the water out.


The box needs a hole drilled where the wires will run to the battery.
Once the wires are in place I seal the hole with epoxy or high quality sealant (but never with silicone! It’s a product that has no place in a sea kayak, in my opinion).

Drill a small hole into the rear bulkhead behind the seat close to the deck. Run the wires to the switch and pump then seal with polyurethane.
The battery box is secured to the hull in the day hatch away from frequent dunkings.
Pelican boxes located in the cockpit have proven to leak.

I secure the bilge pump to the floor of the kayak with little saddles (custom made) and bungee cord. I heard some people gluing the pump directly to the hull.

Measure the outlet hose with a loop close to the deck and attached to the outlet spigot. While the loop will prevent water running back in, a quality non return valve can be used instead.
For kayaks with bulkhead too close to the seat to fit the pump, a recess for the pump can be created. Details here

Appendix:

THE SWITCH:
The switch is made of two parts: the magnet and the reed.
The reed is a little ampoule that contains a metal "leaf" that is "bent" by a magnet.
When you place a magnet over the reed it closes the circuit and makes the contact to activate the pump. Reeds are available from electronics parts stores.
The reed is soldered to the wire and then placed in a little section of PVC tube cut in half.
I use epoxy resin to encapsulate the reed and exposed soldering and make it waterproof.

Once the resin has cured I remove the switch from the mold and stick it with polyurethane (Sikaflex) to the underdeck (see previous image)

The magnet is made up of a small rare earth magnet (from electronic store) and a small piece of steel to channel the magnetism towards the reed switch.
(PS: further research revealed that the piece of steel is not really necessary. The magnetism of the rare earth magnet is not really shielded by such a small piece of steel. Future magnetic sliders willbe made without the steel bit)
I position the rare earth magnet in a suitable plastic cap (or mold) .
I place a spacer of thin paper under the magnet. It will allow for clearance of the hole where the bungee cord goes.
Make sure that the resin covers all the components or salt water will corrode them in no time.

visible are rare earth magnet on top of section of steel (PS steel not really necessary)
The little reed switch is not strong enough to operate the bilge pump.
It needs a booster: a relay.
The relay must be strong enough to switch the pump (minimum 3 A). Below relay available from Jaycar.

A typical diagram for the wiring will look like this. This wiring will only work with this relay. Other relays will need a specific wiring depending on the design of the part.

The above diagram does not show a fuse (strongly recommended)
The relay (and fuse) are positioned in line with the positive (+) and are all contained inside the Pelican box inside the day hatch of the kayak.

The local kayak outfitter charges $395 for fitting an electric bilge pump in your kayak.
If tinkering does not scare you probably you can save yourself about $250+...

PS MAR'10
Douglas Wilcox from Seakayakphoto has installed a Rule 500 fully automatic pump for jetskis (25S-6WC).
He does not use any switches, fuses or relays. The pump turns on automatically every 20 sec and it continues to pumps only if encounters resistance (water).
According to his findings he used the pump on a 10 day trip having it connected every day and emptied a flooded cockpit at least 10 times.
There was plenty of power left in a 1.3 Ah SLA battery.
He does not use a waterproof case either (battery in day hatch) but simply connects to the battery terminals with spade style connectors.
After a few years of use he is confident that his set up is very reliable.