2017 Loire in Anjou – Anne, Marie & Yves Guegniard, Emmanuel, Catherine and Vincent Ogereau

Yesterday we headed across westwards to Anjou to check on progress with the 2017 harvest. We were well aware that the 2017 harvest is virtually over. We dropped in the see the Guegniard family – Anne, Marie, Marie-Annick and Yves (Domaine de la Bergerie) – and also caught up with Jean-Michel Monnier, their wine consultant who happened to be visiting at the same time.

They have virtually finished the harvest – there just remain a couple of tris in Chaume and Quarts de Chaume. Picking started pretty early on 4th September. Fortunately they have been less hit by frost in 2017 than they were last year. However, in the Moulin de Beaupreau (Savennières), which they share with the Ogereaus and Papins, was badly hit by frost where they lost two thirds. The Ogereaus lost even more – virtually 100%. Luckily the Guiegniard family's La Croix Pichot, a parcel further east in the Savennières appellation was not hit by the frost. The Guegniards' La Croix Pichot is excellent and offers very good value at just under 14 euros from the estate. 

Unusually in 2017 the Cabernet here on schist was picked earlier than the Cabernet on limestone in Saumur – normally it is the other way round. 

On 4th October they did their first tri in the Quarts de Chaume, which came in at 21˚ potential, while Chaume was at 20˚. This year for the first time they have made an Anjou Sec from golden grapes in Chaume. The aim is to eventually create a Anjou Villages 1er Cru from a range of recognised sectors each with their own name. The intention is to give the top dry whites from the Anjou Blanc appellation great cachet than they currently have. Producers in Chaume and Quarts de Chaume are apparently the furthest advanced. However, I suspect that it will be some considerable time before this new designation will be accepted by the INAO and come to fruition.  

       Anne, Jean-Michel, Marie, Yves and CRM 

 Jean-Michel Monnier takes a sample from their 'egg', 

which is made from sandstone 

 Marie Guegniard

Domaine Ogereau, Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay:

Emmanuel Ogereau with their Vent de Spilite, 

which they hope will be an eventual Anjou Blanc Cru 

The Ogereaus have also nearly finished picking – just a last tri in the Quarts de Chaume – Les Martinières – and a parcel of Layon to finish. 

They started early – 1st September. By 30th September they had harvested their Cabernet Sauvignon parcel on the Côte de la Houssaye, which is remarkably early. Because of severe frost damage there will sadly be no Savennières this year. What few grapes they did pick have been combined with a small amount of dry wine harvested in their Quarts de Chaume parcel making just a barrel.

The first Quart de Chaume tri was on 25th September with grapes reaching a potential of 19.5%. For the second tri the potential was 22%.    

As at the Domaine de la Bergerie we tasted some nascent 2017 Chenin Blanc and again the juice was very clean with good length.  

 

Harvest virtually over the Ogereaus can relax:

Vincent, Emmanuel and Catherine 

2017 Salon des Vin de Loire + La Levée – some producers present 6th February 2017

Philippe Delesvaux (Anjou)– previously young Turk
now elder statesman

Still producing excellent wine 

 Peter Hahn, Clos de la Meslerie, Vouvray
Peter's Vouvrays vary dramatically in style from vintage to vintage

Tessa Laroche, Domaine Roche aux Moines  

Tessa has substantially improved this estate's wines.

Vincent Ogereau (Domaine Ogereau, Anjou) 

– happy to let son Emmanuel make changes

More to add in morning but internet very slow this evening.

2005 Loire vintage in the Layon, Anjou – some photos from that October

 Pickers' vehicles in the Layon 

 Looking west along the Layon towards Château Soucherie 

from Pierre Bise 

In October Nigel Wilkinson (RSJ Restaurant) I spent a week or more in the Loire seeing how the 2005 vintage was coming. Because of the ideal conditions during the autumn of 2005, the vignerons were very relaxed during the harvest. They were able to choose exactly the moment when to pick. I suspect that the 2016 harvest is unlikely to be as relaxed – still it is some way off so we will have to see.  

Ripening Chenin Blanc at Château Pierre Bise
(above and below)

A steep slope overlooking the River Layon 

Cabernet Sauvignon – if I remember rightly

Claude Papin (Château Pierre Bise)

making a point

Looking westward along the Layon 

Château de Breuil on extreme left

Nigel Wilkinson with Vincent Ogereau 

in a parcel of Vincent's vines in 

Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay 

Cabernet Sauvignon – Côte de la Houssaye

(Domaine Ogereau)

above and below 

 In Les Bonnes Blanches 

ripening Chenin Blanc destined for Coteaux du Layon

above and below   

Vincent Ogereau checking on progress of his Chenin 

Domaine Ogereau, Anjou – profile

Domaine Ogereau, Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay, Anjou

Vincent, Catherine and Emmanuel Ogereau

Vincent and Catherine Ogereau

 

Emmanuel Ogereau during the 2015 vintage – October 

 

Here at Domaine Ogereau, as in a number of other Loire domaines, the changing of the generations is underway with Emmanuel Ogereau increasingly taking over from his parents – Vincent and Catherine. Emmanuel officially became an associate on 20th April 2015. Emmanuel is the 5th generation in this family of vignerons. The Ogereaus have owned this domaine since 1890s. 

Vincent and Catherine took over responsibility for the domaine in 1989 – the year when they made an excellent 1989 Coteaux du Layon St Lambert Cuvée Prestige and followed this success with an award winning 1990 Coteaux du Layon St Lambert Cuvée Prestige.      

Vincent is thoroughly modern in his approach to quality wine-making. His winery is impeccably clean with high quality throughout his Chais. Vincent is a great believer in Chenin Blanc. His Savennières is wonderful. His bright hued, dry Rosé de Loire has an enjoyable red fruit character with zest and style.

Vincent’s reds are some of the best in the appellation. His “straight” Anjou Rouge is nowadays made in a slightly lighter style for earlier drinking, whilst his 'Villages' wines are sterner stuff and need a few years cellaring to show their finest attributes. The Ogereaus top red is a single vineyard – Côte de la Houssaye. This is planted with Cabernet Sauvignon and only released in good vintages when the Cabernet Sauvignon ripens properly.

There are two dry whites: an Anjou Blanc En Chenin made, as the name implies, from 100% Chenin Blanc and a Savennières Clos le Grand Beaupréau. This is from the joint venture vineyard with the Papins (Pierre Bisé) and the Guégniards (Domaine de la Bergerie). 

They also make very elegant and refined Coteaux du Layons – a range of three. First off a straight Coteaux du Layon Saint-Lambert and a top wine the Clos des Bonnes Blanches from a well-sited single vineyard that overlooks the Layon. Fermented in 500-litre barrels and the aged for 18 months this is only made in good vintages. This is one of the top sweet wines from the Layon.   

Then there is a recent introduction – Harmonie des Bonnes Blanches. This is lighter and less rich than Clos des Bonnes Blanches. It is also vinified in 500-litre oak barrels and aged for 15 months.   

2015 saw two exciting additions to their range of wines: the acquisition of 43 ares in Coteaux du Layon Chaume and 87 ares in the Quarts de Chaume. 

Before returning to Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay Emmanuel had considerable experience working away from the Loire. He spent just over two years at Les Vignerons de Buzet from July 2010 to July 2012. Then he had a short spell at the Cave de Tain l'Hermitage from September 2012 – November 2012. At the beginning of 2013 Emmanuel headed to New Zealand spending six months (January to June) at Carrick Wines in Central Otago. He also had a work experience at Domaine Serene in Oregon during the autumn of 2009.   

Unlike his parents Emmanuel is at home on social media with Facebook, Twitter and Linkedin accounts. However, both Vincent and Emmanuel are fine musicians. The Ogereau tasting room has a photo of Vincent playing with his father. 

     

 

This profile is one of a series I am gradually writing for RSJ News – the blog for the RSJ Restaurant in London's Waterloo. The other two profiles completed, so far, are Domaine Luneau-Papin and Château Pierre-Bise.  

 

   

2005 Clos le Grand Beaupréau, Savennières, Château Pierre-Bise

 2005 Clos le Grand Beaupréau, 

Savennières, Château Pierre-Bise

 

Back label signed by Yves Guégniard, 

Vincent Ogereau and Claude Papin 

We recently drank this 2005 Clos le Grand Beaupréau, Savennières from Château Pierre-Bise. Clos le Grand Beaupréau is a vineyard up on the plateau of Savennières by Le Moulin de Beaupréau, a very well appointed chambres d'hôtes with an internal swimming pool.  The vineyard is shared between Yves Guégniard, Vincent Ogereau and Claude Papin, who each have their own rows of vines. 

The 2005 Pierre-Bise Savennières was impressively good. There have been times in the past when their Savennières has just been too rich and ripe for its own good. Whereas this 2005 is very nicely balanced with rich fruit including a touch of honey but contrasted in the finish with a fine backbone of acidity. To be enjoyed now or to keep for a good many years. 

2010 picking in le Clos de Grand Beaupréau with Yves Guégniard 

   

 

Dinner with the Wine Doctor and Tony Aspler

 2012 Le Haut-Lieu Sec, Vouvray, Domaine Huet

 2012 Clos du Bourg, Vouvray, Domaine Huet

Taking advantage of the Decanter World Wine Awards we held a dinner with Chris Kissack (The Wine Doctor) and Tony Aspler, Canada's leading wine writer and wine novelist.

We started by tasting the second bottles of Domaine Huet's 2012 Le Haut-Lieu Sec and the Clos du Bourg Sec. Chris and I had tasted both wines back in early October and been disappointed by them – see here. It would be good to be able to report that a further six months in bottle had given these two wines greater complexity and interest. Sadly they were little changed with the Clos du Bourg the more exciting of the two but both lacked depth and length of fruit. The 2012 Le Mont, tasted at the pre-Salon des Vins de Loire Renaissance event in Angers, was certainly the best of the three Huet 2012s.    

 2013 Chenin Château Petit-Thouars, 

AC Touraine or IGP Val de Loire?
Excellent label design!

After the two Huets we tried the first Chenin Blanc produced from Château du Petit-Thouars from vines planted three years ago. This was bottled at the beginning of April and I have been holding off trying it just to allow time for the wine to recover from the shock of bottling. Although still obviously very young, this is an impressive start with both concentration and character along with Chenin typicity. I have two more sample bottles to try, so it will be very interesting to see how this Chenin develops. 

 1995 Muscadet Sèvre & Maine, 

Domaine Pierre Luneau-Papi

  

As the first course was cerviche of salmon and smoked haddock with some salad leaves I thought the 1995 from Pierre Luneau would be a good and interesting idea. Sadly the wine initially had a mushroomy character. Hoping that this would disappear I served the wine but although initially there were some other interesting characteristics, full blown TCA became all too evident especially in a glass with a wide bowl. The unusual frustration of having kept a bottle for several years only for the cork to let you down!  

In the light of the TCAed Luneau the Domaine Ogereau 2007 Clos le Grand Beaupréau, Savennières was pressed into service – with a quick spell in the freezer! – its attractive concentration and racy acidity worked well with the fish.   

Onto the main course a daube of beef with black olives, sundried tomatoes, orange juice and peel and some mushrooms. I chose to hightlight a couple of Loire Pinot Noirs. We started with the 2006 Cuvée de la Comtesse, Reuilly from Denis Jamain (Domaine de Reuilly). Over the last couple of years we have treally enjoyed the 2005 Cuvée de la Comtesse that spends a year in local oak barrels. Sadly the 2005 was too good and we have polished off all the bottles, so it is onto the 2006, which has good and attractive concentration but needs some more time in bottle to develop further.  

We followed the Reuilly with a rare bottle of La Pertétuelle, Sancerre 1996-2008 from Claude and Laurent Champault. This comes from a solera system that Claude and Laurent started in 1996. The wine is aged in a 600-litre barrel. They take out a third every year and refill with the same quantity. It had good, sweet Pinot character and drank well. 

Rather mischieveously I asked Chris and Tony to guess the vintage. Chris went for 2008, so was half right!   

Following the daube we moved onto the 1998 Menetou-Salon from Bertrand Minchin and the 2007 Cuvée Sarah Coteaux du Saumur from Domaine des Champs Fleuris to partner the cheese. 

 

1998 Menetou-Salon Morogues, La Tour Saint Martin

Bertrand Minchin 

This 1998 Menetou-Salon was a strong candidate to be wine of the dinner with lovely aromatics – ripe but restrained asparagus notes and yellow plum, good concentration and a long finish. Additional complexity from aging in the bottle but still at its best and not at all in decline after nearly 16 years. 

2007 Cuvée Sarah, Coteaux de Saumur, 

Domaine des Champs Fleuris  

Attractive mid-weight sweet wine from Saumur with sweet citrus flavours not one to match with desserts but a good foil for blue cheese or as an apéro or equally after a meal or as an alternative to a dessert. 

 marc sancerrois Famille Vacheron

A curiosity to end with a marc sancerrois from the time of Jean Vacheron. A touch rustic but with a mark of the terroir. Ideal to set us up for the first flight tomorrow@the 2014 Decanter World Wine Awards! 

Dinner with Michel Smith: 2 out of the 5

 

Brut Zéro from Château de l'Aulée

The night before the start of Les 5 du Vin's stay in Bourgueil and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil last weekend we had dinner with Michel Smith – a good opportunity to limber up for the days to come. 

We started with the lemony and very good value Brut Zéro, Crémant de Loire (7.50€) from Château de l'Aulée in Azay-le-Rideau. With the salad of lettuce, lardons, mushrooms and goats' cheese we had the 2000 Le MD, Sancerre from Henri Bourgeois, which is currently showing well with some quite rich, evolved flavours and good freshness in the finish. For those who preferred a red there was Michel Smith's own delightfully easy drinking 2011 Puch from the Côtes Catalanes made from pure Carignan.           

2000 Le MD, Sancerre, Henri Bourgeois 

2011 Puch, VDP Côtes Catalanes – Michel Smith and friends  

With the free-range chicken, pot roasted with garlic and lemon, we explored the 1997 Côt, AC Touraine from Le Clos Roche Blanche – still wonderfully youthful with the seductive black fruits that has always been a hallmark of the 1997 vintage. We also took a look at the fine 2003 Anjou Villages Brissac from Christophe Daviau's Domaine de Bablut. It has the richness of very ripe fruit from this heatwave year but has freshness too and shows no signs of tiring.     

1997 Côt, AC Touraine, Le Clos Roche Blanche

2003 Anjou-Villages Brissac, Domaine de Bablut 

1988 Coteaux du Layon Saint-Lambert, Domaine Ogereau

1988 has always been in the shadow of 1989 and 1990 that followed and its merits have often be overlooked. This 1988 Layon from Domaine Ogereau has lovely balance – the fruit isn't super-concentrated but there is great harmony between the citric and apricot fruit and the acidity. It reminds me of the marvellous balance that 2002 has and it went wonderfully well with the small selection of cheese.

1990 Moelleux, Cuvée Céline, Pascal Delaleu, Vouvray 

As you would expect this 1990 Delaleu Vouvray was richer than the 1988 and still very youthful. It proved to be a good match with baked peaches in Muscat and also to sip after dinner – an appropriate way to finish our soirée de la modération.