The Summer Breeze Top Gets A Sleeve

A number of you asked for a sleeve option when you saw the currently running sew along for the Hot Patterns Summer Breeze top. So, your wish is my command :), and I've created a sleeve for the top.

 It has 3 pleats that echo the front drape on the blouse.

The back of the sleeve lays flat over the arm, just like the back of the blouse basically lays flat over the back of the body.

The sleeve is very easy to draft. I used Butterick 5678 for my sleeve pattern. The pattern has been used for so many garments. If by chance you're new to the blog, or you just missed a few, you can see the many faces of Butterick 5678 here. I'll warn you now, there are quite a few posts.

The instructions for this sleeve are on the Sew News blog and you can find them here, http://www.sewnews.com/blogs/sewing/2014/07/17/sew-along-extra-summer-breeze-top-adding-sleeves/

You may have noticed that the hem of this blouse has a little extra fullness. I added a little something extra for anyone who might have mis-measured and the hip area of their top is just a little snug. It will be in the final sew along post this upcoming Monday. 

Sewing Indie Month, Be A Pattern Hacker

I have a very nice surprise for you today, so be sure to read to the end :)
Over the last few weeks, I've thought a lot about pattern hacking, redesigning, chopping, whatever you would like to call it, primarily because I have a pile of patterns I have been commissioned to hack for Sewing Indie Month!! So, what does it take to make a pattern your own? As you saw last week with the top I did from Soma Patterns,

the change can be very, very simple like adding a triangular shaped sleeve.
You may remember the dress I did last summer,

that started with Butterick 5678. Of course, this was much more involved, but lots of fun and even more fun to wear!!! 

I did lots of hacks to that simple shirt pattern. If you would like to scroll through and see the many faces of Butterick 5678, click here.
A little more inspiration can be found with all the posts I've done on sleeve drafting. Here's a link to my Pinterest Sleeve Page, http://www.pinterest.com/sewbussted/sleeves-on-saturdays/
The sleeve below was drafted from the free t-shirt pattern offered by Deer and Doe. You can find the instructions on how to draft this sleeve here, http://rhondabuss.blogspot.com/2014/03/sleeves-on-saturdays_15.html

Deer and Doe is not a part of Sewing Indie Month, but to refresh your memory, here's the list;

• By Hand London
• Christine Haynes
• Closet Case Files
• Dixie DIY
• Fehr Trade
• Garmenter
• Kate & Rose
• Lolita Patterns
• Maria Denmark
• Seamster Sewing Patterns
• Sew Caroline
• Sew Chic Patterns
• Sewn Square One
• Sinbad & Sailor
• Skinny Bitch Curvy Chick Patterns
• SomaPatterns by Sylvie P
• Stepalica Patterns
• Pauline Alice
• Thread Theory Designs
• Tilly & the Buttons
• Waffle Patterns

A number of the companies have free patterns, so be sure to take a look.

Now for the surprise!!!!!

This week's hack will be a pair of pants from Sewn Square One.

You may be wondering what in the world I could do with a pair of pants. Well, you'll have to come back by tomorrow to see, but I think that what I've done is rather cute if I say so myself :) I will tell you that my pants have a very different look, and yet, the change was nothing earth shaking. You'll see!!!!

Okay, finally, the good news!!! Elizabeth was so very generous to offer a free pattern to my readers!!!!! If you would like a chance to win your own copy of her Paper Bag Pant pattern, just leave a message on this post. You'll only have a few days to enter as I would like to get the pattern out as soon as possible so whoever the winner is will have a chance to make the pattern up during Sewing Indie Month. Get Ready, Set, Go!!!! I'll announce the winner Friday morning. That's this Friday morning, May 16, 2014!!!!!!!

If by chance you've already hacked a pattern and would like to link it up for a chance to win the prizes that I announced on May 1st, see this post and link away, http://rhondabuss.blogspot.com/2014/05/announcing-sewing-indie-month.html  You'll find the link button just under the list of prizes.  

Happy Hacking!      

Drafting The Mandarin Collar

Today's post was a request from a lovely lady who lives in Sri Lanka. She has really embraced pattern drafting and is so excited about the process. She sent a picture to me of the drop shoulder sleeve that she drafted from my instructions and she did such a wonderful job. I'm really quite excited for her as learning to draft is a very uplifting experience. At least I think it is :)
There are a few methods for drafting a mandarin collar. I am going to share my preferred method.
I began with my trusty Butterick 5678 shirt pattern that I've used to draft a number of collars and sleeves.
Since I am starting with a pattern that has been developed for the attachment of a collar, I will not need to adjust the neckline. If you are starting with a bodice that fits close to the neck, you will need to adjust the neckline. Lower the center back 1/8" to 1/4" and the shoulder at neck edge, the same amount as you lowered center back. The center front should be lowered 1/4" to 1/2". Lower the shoulder at neck edge the same amount as you did the back bodice at the shoulder. The amount that you lower the neckline depends upon how much comfort you would like around the neckline as well as the design of your garment.
I personally like a shaped mandarin collar and I like to cut it on the bias if at all possible. The only time a shaped mandarin collar will not work is if you are using a stripe fabric.
To begin, I marked the 5/8" seam allowance around the neckline of my pattern.

I then measured from center back to the shoulder line along the seamline.

Then measure from the shoulder line to center front. With these 2 measurements we are now ready to draft the collar.

A mandarin collar can be as narrow as 1" or as wide as 1 1/2". The collar may be wider if you wish, but it will have a tendency to hit the chin.
Begin by drawing a vertical line for center back. From the center back line, draw a horizontal line the measurement of the back neck from center back to the shoulder line. Place a notch at this point. Determine the width of your collar and draw another horizontal line from center back.

From the shoulder notch, continue the line to center front. This measurement should be the amount measured from the shoulder line to center front on the neckline of your bodice. To develop the shaped collar, the center front line should be 2". Measure up 1/2" from the lower line and place a notch. At the top edge of the 2" line, measure over 1/2" and place a dot.

 Connect the notch at center front and the dot with a straight line.

 Connect the notch at center front to the shoulder notch with a straight line.

 Find the center between center front and the shoulder notch and place a mark at this point.

 From that mark, measure down 1/8" and place a mark.

 Connect the mark to center front and the shoulder notch with a slightly curved line.

 Using your ruler, measure up from the curved line the width of your collar.

 Now you can see the collar taking shape.

 Draw in the line.

The final pattern. 1/4" seam allowances were added around the entire collar pattern. Since I will be cutting my collar on the bias grainline, the collar is no longer on the fold, but one piece. There are notches for the shoulders and for center back. Cut 1 collar for the top and 1 for the under collar.

Once I have sewn my collar together, I like to edge stitch the under collar between the 2 shoulder notches.

Since I only added 1/4" seam allowances to my collar, I need to adjust the seam allowance on my bodice. I began by marking the 5/8" seam allowance and then measured up 1/4".

 3/8"was cut away from the neckline leaving a 1/4" seam allowance.

The final collar. Because the collar was cut on the bias, it sits very nicely around the neck. 

 The collar has a close fit to the neck, but there is still room for movement. 

Now you see just how easy it is to draft a shaped mandarin collar.
Good luck and happy drafting!
Rhonda

Linda's Raised Collar, It's Beautiful!

Good Morning Everyone!!! I am working on a new Fabulous Free Pattern Friday piece that I hope to post a little later today, but a shout out and a big thank you needs to go out to Linda of http://seamswell.blogspot.ca/2014/02/butterick-5678-modified-neckline.html. As I scrolled through a piece that she posted yesterday, I came across this top

and my first thought was, "wow I love that neckline!" Now in all honesty, I am very bad about scrolling through blogs and looking at the pictures. I guess I'm a picture kinda gal!! I've always loved picture books:) As I scrolled through, my name caught my eye and I was pleasantly surprised to see that Linda had purchased Butterick 5678. You may remember that I did a series of collar posts for Sew News and used this pattern as my base.

This is the collar I drafted for the tutorial.

Linda said that she was very happy with how the blouse turned out. I do love her neckline!

If you would like to check out the tutorial I did on the raised neckline, you can find it here, http://www.sewnews.com/blogs/sewing/2013/05/28/rhonda-buss-the-raised-collar-neckline-tutorial/
As I said, I did an entire series of collar posts and you can find those here, http://www.sewnews.com/blogs/sewing/?s=Rhonda+Buss
Thanks so much Linda for taking a chance on the collar. I'm truly honored.
If by chance any of you give a sleeve or Free Pattern Friday piece a try, let me know. I always love to see what you've done and even more, I love to brag on your work!!!

The Zebra Dress Tutorial Part 2

First, I need to apologize for not basically disappearing for a few days. Sometimes something has to give and sadly, it was the blog. But, I'm back and doing my best to catch up by posting the second tutorial on the zebra dress. You can find the first tutorial here, http://www.rhondabuss.blogspot.com/2013/08/the-zebra-dress-tutorial-begins.html

Just in case you are just finding this dress, we began with the Butterick pattern, 5678, just a basic shirt pattern. 

And this is what I created.

 In the first tutorial I went over how important it is to get a good fit before you begin with any of the design details. My bodice has been fitted and I have also drafted the raised collar as well as the cap sleeves. For the tutorial on the raised collar, you can find that here, http://www.sewnews.com/blogs/sewing/2013/05/28/rhonda-buss-the-raised-collar-neckline-tutorial/, and for the cap sleeves, you can find that tutorial here, http://rhondabuss.blogspot.com/2012/07/sleeves-on-saturdays_26.html  Take note the you will only be using the first part of the tutorial for the sleeve since we will not be adding a long sleeve to this design. Once you have drafted the sleeve, you will probably need to round off the shoulder seam as it comes down on the arm.
At this point, the design would lend itself to a blouse or a dress, but we want to take it a little further.

Begin by rounding the raised collar on the right side of the garment.

Now draw in a style line. This will actually become a yoke. The black wax line is approximately 2" below the armpit. Note that this line does not continue to the back, but stops at the side seam. The first line that I drew wasn't exactly what I wanted so I drew in a second line. Now I just have to remember which line I like!

 In the picture below I have placed a mark at my waistline.

Now draw in a line from the collar, rounding the front edge of the collar. The line will intersect the princess line seam and end at the waistline.  

The style lines have been drawn in and you can see what they look like from the front.

Now for the lines that create the wow factor. The line that will come under the bust line begins approximately 2" from the princess line seam and angels down under the bust.

 The picture below shows the line going across the front of the garment.

 This line will intersect the line we drew from the neckline on the left side of the garment.

 I'm happy with my lines and I will now cut out the area that should no longer be there.

 The piece has now been removed.

You can see that the garment gaps a bit at the princess line seams. This could be because I am not exactly the same size as my dress form or it may be that I need to tweak my fitting just a bit. Sometimes once changes are made, the fitting will change just a bit as well.

Remember that we want a very well fitting garment. If the garment does not fit well, it will gape open once it is finished and spoil the look.

At this point try the garment on and make any necessary adjustments.

 Below is the original dress with the center cut out.

And how it looks with the bustier underneath.

The next step will be to take the pattern pieces apart and add the length and the flare to the hem. As you can see, once the dress is broken down into steps, it really isn't difficult to do.
I will be making the dress once again for this tutorial series. I bought a piece of denim and a great zipper. I'm just a little undecided about what to make the bustier out of. Any ideas?