This is personally my favorite Bruce Brown flick. As always full of surfing pioneers in their heyday. I have the entire Bruce Brown collection and love them all. These guys were in another league than surfers today as far as strength is concerned. Riding those big waves on extremely heavy longboards with no leash. Could you imagine having to paddle out in those waves almost every time you couldn't hold on to your board. Not too mention those longboards were much faster than today's shortboard. Kimo almost getting decapitated in the "terrible ten" is still one of the luckiest moment in surfing. I would like to find some Bud Brown movies. The Brown family changed the world of surfing forever and we should never forget their work.
Thanks Bruce and all the surfers for such a classic surf movie. Makes me wish I could travel back in time to those days and buy one of the $80 airline tickets to Oahu.
