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WROCŁAW
January - April 2009

Bad Chemistry
The Story of Breslau’s
Fritz Haber

Drop a Squat
Wrocław’s Counter-
Culture Heroes

N°14 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT)

www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1642-2899
 CONTENTS 5

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents
Quick picks 10

Arriving in Wrocław 12

The Basics 13
Surviving Wrocław

History 16

Culture & Events 18

What’s on, and where

Where to stay 24
Accommodation for all pockets

Dining & Nightlife 34

From fine dining to food poisoning
Wrocław’s edgy CRK (Centrum Reanimacji Kultury) is one of
Cafés 49 less than a half-dozen squats in Poland and ground zero for
alternative culture in Lower Silesia. The semi-legal site of
Bars 51 regular concerts, workshops and lectures, it’s a swift steel
toe to the teeth of anyone who thinks Wrocław is all trendy
Clubs 58 clubs, cocktails and conservative dress codes. Join the
revolution on page 51.

Sightseeing
What to see 62
Old Town 70
Ostrów Tumski 71
Festung Breslau 72

Getting around 74
From A to B

Mail & Phones 79

Directory
Shopping 80
Directory 83

Maps & Index

City centre map 87
City map 88
Country map 90
One of history’s most misremembered figures, we couldn’t
help but recount the dark turns in the tale of Fritz Haber, a Street index 92
man who through his genius wrought both life and death Listing Index 93
upon millions. His story of startling irony starts here in Features Index 94
Wrocław on page 8...

wroclaw.inyourpocket.com January - April 2009

6 FOREWORD
While tossed-off designations of Wrocław as the
‘New Kraków’ bring a bit of bile to the back of Europe In Your Pocket
this editor’s throat, we’ll admit that it’s easy to
see similarities between the two cities. Indeed,
Wrocław’s majestic market square, ornamental
architecture, skyline of spires, artsy smoke-
choked cafes and non-stop nightlife draw easy
comparisons between the two pearls of Poland,
but we’ll be quick to point out that Wrocław has
a lot going on that you won’t find in Kraków. As
Poland’s third city, Wrocław represents a nice
balance between Kraków’s good looks and
Warsaw’s urban energy, making itself the model
Eastern European metropolis – a point well-noted
by Google when they made Wrocław their Eastern
European headquarters in 2007. Here you’ll find
an adherence to architectural integrity, but without
Kraków’s paranoia of progress, artistic elitism
and stubborn conservatism. A dynamic, forward-
thinking city, Wrocław has established itself as
a burgeoning business hub, snubbing Kraków
significantly with its inclusion in the Euro 2012
tournament while PL’s ‘cultural capital’ got left on
the B-list. Yet it’s Wrocław’s street-style and urban
underground that truly set it apart from its eastern
tourist-dollars counterpart. This issue of IYP we’ve Odesa In Your Pocket, a mini-guide to the jewel
explored Wrocław’s street scene with a visit out to of the Ukrainian coast, became the 50th In Your
CRK – the city’s most established squat/counter- Pocket guide when published in November. It fol-
culture centre (page 51), and a poke around at the lowed hard on the heels of Moscow and Banja Luka,
city’s contributions to urban art (page 68). We’ve two cities pocketed in October. The year 2009 will
see more In Your Pockets, in Sarejevo, Glasgow
also scoured the streets for all the new venues and Vienna. If you want to join the Pocket Revolu-
that’ll keep you warm this season and you’ll find an tion and publish your own guide, to your city, get in
ample spate of fresh listings herein – so clutch this touch at publisher@inyourpocket.com. You should
little tome to your chest and we’re sure you can get also make sure you take a look at our new, much
through the winter. We’d love to hear your thoughts improved website, finally launched in November.
on the city – its pulse, playgrounds and people – so It is packed with exclusive content, and offers you
please post your impressions to editor_poland@ the chance to really get involved, writing your own
inyourpocket.com, and for godsakes get out there reviews or commenting on our features. Go surf at
inyourpocket.com.
and enjoy yourself.

Editorial Copyright notice

Writer Garrett Van Reed Text and photos copyright WIYP Sp. z o.o.
Contributor Craig Turp 1999-2008. Maps copyright cartographer.
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Assistant Editor: Karolina Montygierd-Łojbo All rights reserved. No part of this
Research Kasia Laskowska, Adam publication may be reproduced in any
Publisher Zdancewicz, Tomasz Zaniewski, Paulina form, except brief extracts for the purpose
Pietruszyńska, Martyna Klukowska
WIYP Sp. z o.o. Events Klaudia Mampe, Vaughan Elliott of review, without written permission from
ul. Paderewskiego 1, 81-831 Sopot Design Tomáš Haman the publisher and copyright owner. The
Photography Alex Webber, Rentapocket, brand name In Your Pocket is used under
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Rynek Główny 6, Szara Kamienica Manager: Anna Wyrzykowska 0606 749 642 the accuracy of the information at the
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Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

8 FRITZ HABER
Germany’s Chemical Agent of Life and Death
Wrocław, believe it or not, had a total of eleven (eleven!) and other gases to be used in trench warfare. Commonly
native-born Nobel laureates in the 20th century, beginning with regarded as the father of modern chemical warfare, Haber
Thomas Mommsen’s prize for literature in 1902 and spanning earned himself the nickname ‘Dr. Death,’ his enthusiasm
Richard Selten’s 1992 prize for his work in ‘game theory.’ While for gas warfare extending so far as the organisation and
we might be tempted (we’re not) to fill this guide with texts about personal direction of the world’s first gas attack – the large
all eleven of Wrocław’s Nobel nerds, we do find merit in bringing scale release of chlorine gas on the battlefield at Ypres,
you the story of the rise and fall of Fritz Haber. Most remembered France on April 22nd, 1915. Casualty estimates vary, but lie
for his invention of a process for synthesizing ammonia – a feat somewhere between 5,000 and 15,000 Allied wounded or
which earned him the 1918 Nobel Prize in Chemistry – Haber killed as a result of gas, with German losses in the hundreds.
was more than another bespectacled scientist in a white coat. Haber’s wife Clara was disheartened by her husband’s
A fanatical brinksman and nationalist, his work had a tragically application of his genius to the proliferation of chemical
ironic and profound effect on his personal life and the world, weapons and, upon his return to Berlin, took his service
sustaining and scorching both. weapon and shot herself in the chest on May 15th, dying the
next morning. Haber left that same morning for the Eastern
Our drama begins in 1868 in Prussian Breslau (yes, Front to direct the first gas attack against the Russians.
that would be Polish Wrocław today), with the birth of our
momentary hero and the coinciding death of his mother. Fritz’s Though gas warfare became a powerful psychological
father, a prosperous Jewish chemical merchant, thereby sent weapon in the war, it was never a decisive one as the Allies
his son to be educated in Berlin, Heidelberg and Zurich, not improved their own protective devices and retaliated. In some
knowing what else to do with the little creature. Briefly returning sense, World War I’s gas warfare became a war of the chemists
to Breslau to work for his father’s business, young Fritz swiftly with Haber finding his nemesis in France’s Victor Grignard, who
developed a chemical intrigue and left to study organic worked on the detection of mustard gas and the manufacture of
chemistry at the University of Jena, later taking a teaching the chemical weapon phosgene for the Allies. For his exemplary
position in Karlsruhe. Upon reaching the quarter-century mark, military service, Haber was given the rank of captain by Kaiser
Haber began to apply himself with maniacal devotion to the Wilhelm – a rare distinction for a scientist too old to enlist.
study of physical chemistry. Having essentially taught himself Despite being previously passed by the Swedish Academy of
the subject, Haber’s name received recognition, and then Science for the Nobel Prize, Haber was ironically given the award
renown, as he authored several books based on his research. in 1918 for his discovery of ammonia synthesis, receiving the
In 1901, the successful suitor married fellow chemist Clara award at a time when he was reviled by the foreign scientific
Immerwahl – herself the first female Ph.D. at the University community for his war involvement.
of Breslau, and together they had a son.
Upon Germany’s eventual defeat in the Great War, Haber
Meanwhile, the world had a problem. Its natural resource was devastated, manifesting the loss into an emotional
for ammonia and nitrogenous compounds – necessary to burden and suffering from nervous exhaustion. Taking
the production of fertilisers and thereby food – was not responsibility for his country’s failure, an increasingly
large enough to meet increasing world-wide demand, and unbalanced Haber hatched a plan for how to help his country
lay almost exclusively in one huge 355 kilometre-long, pay back its enormous war reparations (brace yourselves): by
one-and-a-half metre-deep guano deposit off the coast of extracting gold from seawater. The seemingly hare-brained
Chile – and it was fast being depleted! With Chile holding a scheme was based less on mystical German alchemy
monopoly over the world’s ability to produce ammonia thanks techniques than on applying to the Atlantic Ocean the
to their unique ‘deposit,’ in stepped Haber. Abandoning an concept of panning a river for gold. After publishing papers
initial project to develop an addictive laxative for the common on the subject and making several sea voyages, Haber was
German house sparrow (– this is the only part we made up), finally forced to conclude in 1928 that the concentration of
Haber teamed with Carl Bosch to create a now well-known gold in the ocean was too insignificant to make its extraction
process for the synthesis of ammonia from the abundant economically viable. [Perhaps a re-evaluation of the post-war
elements of nitrogen and hydrogen gas. In doing so, Haber guano market would have been more fruitful.]
saved the world from the impending food crisis many were
predicting, as suddenly inexpensive fertilisers could be made Haber’s distinguished service to his country wasn’t enough
all over the world. Conversely, ammonia was also necessary to overcome his Jewish ethnicity and save him from persecution
in the production of nitric acid – a raw material essential for when Hitler came to power. Though he was allowed safe
creating explosives – and the invention of synthetic ammonia passage, Haber was forced to leave Germany in 1933 and went
brought with it the viable mass manufacture of chemical to Cambridge where he had been offered a position. Citing poor
high explosives and ammunition. In the wake of Haber’s health and an understandable disapproval of British weather,
breakthrough the German war machine began to rev up and he soon left and failed to settle anywhere before dying of a
the Chilean guano market bottomed out, never to recover. heart attack en route to Switzerland on January 30, 1935 at
the age of 65. Though Haber and his son Hermann were both
A dutiful patriot, Haber was in no way bothered by his work able to escape the War (albeit separately), Haber’s extended
becoming the backbone of the German war effort. Having family were all put to death in the concentration camps, where
been appointed director of the Kaiser Wilhelm Institute for by the early 1940s the Nazis had begun to use a cyanide-based
Physical Chemistry in Berlin, Haber placed himself and his gas called Zyklon B to exterminate Jews in mass. As you can
laboratory at the service of the German government upon probably guess, Haber himself developed the infamous poison,
the outbreak of WWI. Soon Haber was a favoured behind-the- his institute creating it as a pesticide in the 1920s before it
scenes military consultant, occupying himself with solving became the preferred genocide method of the Nazis. By the
many of the country’s military concerns. Certainly Haber’s war’s end 1.2 million Jews were gassed to death using Zyklon
most notorious and controversial contribution to Germany’s B. Fritz and Clara’s son, Hermann Haber, who had successfully
war effort was the development of chemical weapons, which emigrated to America before the war, eventually followed his
he went about with zeal. Haber and his institute produced mother’s example, committing suicide in 1945 as the true horror
several improved gas masks before developing chlorine of the Holocaust was being fully realised.

Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

10 QUICK PICKS QUICK PICKS 11

Wrocław condensed
Eat Drink Sleep See Do
Local For Polish food at its best, though not its most Do what the ‘in the know’ locals do and head to the The Dwór Polski (page 26) is a 16th Poles are rightly proud of the monolithic Head to the top of the cathedral
expensive, head to the incomparable JaDka (page courtyard at Ruska 51 (A-3). There is a bevy of places century gem (from the outside, at Racławice Panorama (page 66), as well as (page 62) for panoramic views of all
44) for the top-notch Polska experience. Other op- to drink there, and at least one in which you can play least). Merely through association victory in the battle it commemorates. For a Wrocław (and as you will see it is a
tions include the uber-traditional Piwnica Świdnicka darts (big in Wrocław). Else hit typically Polish bars like with the great man’s name the summer stroll locals often head to Ostrów surprisingly big city: almost 700,000
(page 46), and the enjoyable mayhem that is Pod Rejs (page 56), before finishing off in Kalabur (page Hotel Jana Pawła II (page 27) is Tumski (page 71) and the Botanical gardens, people live here), or to the top of St
Złotym Jeleniem (page 56). 58) - a tiny Secessionist dance space swamped with popular with Poles from other though like visitors their main point of refer- Elizabeth’s church (page 62) for much
students that you'll never outlast. cities. ence is the Market Square (page 70). of the same. And don’t forego pierogi,
preferably at the market for the real
local experience (page 70).

Cheap The Polish love of pierogi will ensure even the Join local students and the after work crowd at the Dutch backpackers looking for Walk around Old Town (page 70) and Ostrów Use public transport, it is cheap and
cheapest of cheapskates never starves in Wrocław, gaggle of boozers which line the courtyard at Ruska a bargain should head to the Tumski (page 71), it’s free. Many museums efficient, and make use of the free
with the little pierogi bar at the market (page 70) 51 (A-3). Conversely, make the ballsy trek out to CRK insanely plush refuge that is Na- offer free entrance on Wednesdays, though internet access in the tourist office.
serving the cheapest we have found (3.90zl for (page 51) and you can bring your own bevvy, or buy than’s Villa (hostels never had wifi with the standard price never more than To top off your stay in (cheap) style
eight). For a little more sophistication try the various one for 3zł or less at CRK's Cafe Utopia. Also, don't and flat screen televisions in our 4zł or so sightseeing is not an expensive buy some cheap seats for the very
delights of the inexpensive but decent restaurants forget Kropka Chlup & Go's 4zł beverage menu (page day) (page 33), while other decent pastime in Wrocław. The one exception is splendid opera house (page 19)
Kurna Chata (page 44), Gruzińskie Chaczapuri and 53), though you get what you pay for... choices include Boogie (page 33) the Racławice Panorama (page 66), which (tickets from 8zł).
Multifood STP (page 44). and Mleczarnia (page 33), where costs a whopping 20zł.
you should ask for the bargain that
is the private apartment.

Lads For a feast of meat, served with side dishes of meat Spiż (page 39) has to be top of your list for the sheer Both the Scandic (page 25) and Beyond the knickers of the rather splendid Crazy Stags (www.crazystags.com)
for men who eat little less than meat, then it has to hell of it: the beer hall atmosphere, music and likeli- the Novotel (page 38) are good, lap dancers in Pruderia (page 60) you will can organize shooting, kidnapping
be Rodeo Drive (page 34). For a post beer kebab hood of getting rat-arsed with German tour groups is well-priced options for big group probably want to see little except drink and (yes, really), paintball, debauchery
the best in the Old Town is Readys (page 47). You often too much to resist. For a more mundane drink bookings, while if you are looking bed. For those with a bit more of a cultural and all the other stag related she-
can also snack unhealthily on pierogi; the market head to Guinness pub (page 52), which will also show for something cheaper then it has interest there is the Military Museum (page nanigans you know and love. Football
(page 70) serves up a plateful for a song. English football, or squeeze into the barrels at High- to be Nathan’s Villa Hostel (page 65), while a trip to the top of the Cathedral fans might want to take a trip out
lander (page 52). 33), where you can of course also (page 62) will clear most hangovers. to Wrocław’s ambitiously-named
come across as mature and in the Olympic Stadium.
know to the young, impressionable
girls who stay here.

Couples Head to the elegant Kardamon (page 34) for a Paparazzi (page 55) is not the posers’ paradise it The top floor apartment in the Exploring the Botanical Gardens (page A starlight walk across the little iron
romantic fusion dinner, or try the stylish downstairs sounds: it is in fact a popular choice with local couples. Qubus (page 25) overlooking 66) hand in hand, arm in arm is a Wrocław bridge linking Ostrów Tumski and Old
at Złota Kaczka (page 40). JaDka (page 44) is great Many a first date gets held here. A glass of very good the church has to be the most ritual that engulfs all generations; expect to Town has been the scene of many a
for the seminal flowery, Polish atmosphere, while wine (and Lord knows there are plenty to choose romantic bedroom in town. For see youths in the first throes of love snog- proposal. If she says yes take her to
odNova (page 36) offers cutting edge couples from) at Vinoteca La Bodega (page 57) is a good idea, luxury try one of the suites at the ging on a bench and well-dressed couples Cafeterie Chic (page 49) for apple pie
cutting edge food. Finally, give Abrams’ Tower a followed up by a nightcap and live piano music at Sofitel (page 26) or the Radisson walking the tree-lined paths reminiscing of and raspberry sauce, then cross the
whirl for fusion recipes inside a romantic medieval Ragtime (page 56). (page 25). times past. bridge for champagne in the Radisson
bastion (page 34). lobby bar (page 25). If she says no
you can always throw her over the
side of the canal.

Splurge JaDka (page 44) is the best restaurant in town, Paparazzi (page 55) is good for cocktails, which can Basically you have two choices, the There are lots of ostentatious gravestones Hit th e sh ops. Head to Arkad y
though the most expensive is probably that in the be expensive, while if you are really classy and flush Sofitel (page 26) and the Radisson in Wrocław’s Jewish cemetery (page 65), Wrocławskie, Galeria Dominikańska
Sofitel – Pan Tadeusz (page 38), where the wine you can book the VIP room in Lemoniada (page 54). (page 25), with little to pick be- itself a worthwhile historical sight. Though or Magnolia Park (page 82) for big
list is extraordinary and can knock the bill towards Local hotshots tend to splash the cash at Pod Pap- tween the two. Both are genuinely many are now neglected you can admire the name, high-maintenance brands,
and often beyond four (Polish) figures. ugami (page 55). five star, with lobby bars selling wealth and taste of people who put great while any of the antique shops of
vintage champagne, presidential thought into their legacies. The Archeology Old Town will be happy to rob you of
suites and every extra known to Museum (page 64) is full of priceless arti- your wealth in exchange for genuine
man. Of the two you are probably facts you might fancy making the curators SS watches, Secession lamps and
looking at the Radisson for sheer an offer for. Contemporary art fans should the like.
luxury, but the Sofitel has the edge head to the top floor of the National Museum
on location. (page 65).
Abstract Dine in a great big water tower at Wieża Ciśnień The fact that Mleczarnia (page 54) is dark even at midday There is nowhere really off the wall Look out for the curious head that peeps out Follow the trail of now infamous
(page 39), or in an old medieval defensive tower at on the sunniest day of the year makes it a great abstract to kip, but for something a little of the wall of St. John’s Cathedral (page 62), gnomes (page 59), which have be-
Abrams’ Tower (page 34). You could also try eating choice, while the local student favourite Graciarnia (page less mainstream try Cinnamon before heading out to the Olympic Stadium come something of a city landmark;
in what is little more than a converted lavatory at 52) is great for meeting “let’s end the fucking war man” Hostel (page 32), or for something built for a city that has never hosted the make sure you do not leave town until
Pod II Strusiem (page 44), where the menu includes types in scarves and dreadlocks. Chill Out Club (page 52) more upmarket Dwór Polski - Olympics. Wrocław is also full of tunnels and you have found them all. Also, how
the very abstract Indian Pizza. does a good line in mystery and is a bugger to find. Finally, (page 26) once served a meeting subterranean quirks. about a drink in a medieval jail, also
why not go to Pruderia (a strip club – page 60) simply for point between King Sigismund III known as Pracoffnia (page 55).
a drink. That’s post-modernism for you. Vasa and his future wife Anna of
Habsburg.

Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com wroclaw.inyourpocket.com January - April 2009

12 ARRIVING BASICS 13

Arriving by bus Poland’s Venice Basic data luck is really low you may find yourself having the daylights
beaten out of you by the guards. Refreshment comes in the
We always feel that if you arrive anywhere by bus then form of limitless coffee, though the mug it comes in will smell
something, somewhere, must have gone ver y wrong. Built on 12 islands the city of Wrocław is surrounded by riv- Territory of urine for a reason. Credit cards not accepted.
However, given that getting from Warsaw to Wrocław by ers and canals. No-one seems to agree on an exact figure, Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers
but you’ll find approximately 127 bridges within the city and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the
bus is a far quicker proposition than the train, in this case
we will let you off. The city’s main bus station, Dworzec boundaries, a figure that only three other European cities Baltic Sea and seven countries, namely the Baltic Sea Climate
Centralny, is immediately behind the railway station, and is can beat (Venice, Amsterdam and St Petersburg). (528km), Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km), Poland has a temperate climate with hot summers and cold
a bit of a dump. We recommend heading for the (relative) Though not the most beautiful, the daddy of them all has Germany (467km), Lithuania (103km), the Russian winters. Seasons tend to be more pronounced than in the
safety of the train station as soon as possible. Getting into to be Most Grunwaldzski; Poland’s longest suspension exclave of Kaliningrad (210km),Slovakia (539km) and, west and temperatures can get down as low as -20 C in winter
the city and all other details therefore are the same as for bridge. Designed by Mager, Weyerauch and Mayer, the Ukraine (529km). and as high as +30 C in summer. The coldest weather tends
Arriving by train. bridge was completed in 1910 and originally christened to hit around February although the last couple of winters
the Imperial Bridge. According to local legend the chief Longest River have been fairly mild. Below is a graphic showing average
Wrocław Główny Bus Station (Dworzec Centralny engineer committed suicide on the eve of its unveiling, The river Vistula (Wisła) is Poland’s longest river at temperatures and rainfall.
PKS) B-6, ul. Sucha 1/11, tel. 0 703 30 01 22. convinced that the structure would collapse. 1,047km and flows through Kraków and Warsaw
before reaching the Bay of Gdańsk (Zatoka Gdańska).
Wrocław sits on the Odra river which reaches the Baltic Customs
Arriving by car at Szczecin. If you are travelling within the EU those over 18 can now take
Are you mad? You drove to Poland? God help you, though 10L of spirits, 90L of wine and 110L of beer. Most countries
note that Wrocław’s drivers at least appear to take a little Highest Point will not allow more than 200 cigarettes from Poland. A work
more care than the standard cretins who make other cit- The highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the nearby Tatra of art produced before 1945 is classified as a ‘cultural good’
ies such a nightmare. A heavy police presence in the city Mountains. In comparison Kraków’s landscape is flat and and must be authorised before it can leave the country. If
centre helps. the city lies 219m above sea level. the gallery or shop can’t supply the zaświadczenie (permis-
Your biggest problem in Wrocław will be finding somewhere to sion) when you buy the artwork, check with the Wojewódzki
park. As you will be barred from the city centre anyway (much Population (2007) Konserwator Zabytków (Regional Curator’s Office). If a book
is pedestrianised and what isn’t is accessible only to permit Poland 38,126,000 was printed before 1945, you’ll need permission from the
holders) either park for free at the Arkady Wrocławskie (B-5, Warsaw 1,702,139 National Library to take it out of Poland.
next to the railway station, and note you will not be able to Kraków 756,267
Łódź 755,251
leave your car here overnight) or in the multi-storey car park
on (A-2) ul. Rzeźnicza, next to the Sofitel. Some - mainly Wrocław 634,630 Electricity
upmarket - hotels have limited parking spaces, check when Poznań 564,951 Electricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round
you book your room. Gdańsk 456,658 with two round-pin sockets. Therefore if you are coming
Katowice 314,500 from the UK or Ireland you are definitely going to need a plug
Sopot 40,666
Arriving by plane convertor. The best place to pick these up is at home as our
residents Brits will testify although if you do arrive without
Wrocław’s Nicolaus Coper- Copernicus Airpor t Wrocław (Por t Lotniczy Local time a covertor you can try your hotel concierge or reception. If
nicus Airport (Port Lotnicz y Wrocław im. Mikołaja Kopernika) ul. Skarżyńskiego Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone they don’t have one the best place to pick one up is at one
im. Mikołaja Kopernika we 36, tel. 071 358 13 81, www.airport.wroclaw.pl. (GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Warsaw it’s 11:00 in of the big electrical outlets often situated on the edge of
Wrocławiu) is located about London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo. town. Our advice is save yourself the hassle and get one in
Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the
13 km north-west of the city
centre, and is a model of effi- Arriving by train last Sundays of March and October.
the airport as you leave.

ciency, with luggage arriving in

minutes and passport control
Wrocław‘s Train station (Dworzec Główny PKP: B-6, ul.
Piłsudskiego 105, tel. 071 717 16 74, www.pkp.pl) must Twin Towns Flowers
a breeze, even for non-Schengen zone flights. Modern, bright have been lovely once. Today only the marvellous vaulted Breda, Dresden, Charlotte, Guadalajara, Hradec Králové, As in much of Eastern Europe the giving of flowers comes with
and refreshingly free of bad smells the airport is indeed set ceilings remind visitors of those long lost days when arriving Kaunas, La Vienne, Lviv, Ramat Gan, Wiesbaden a sophisticated set of rules. Should you wish to stay on the
to get even better: a brand new terminal will be built for the by train was a pleasure, not a chore. To be fair there are right side of your lover, parents-in-law, etc pay heed to the
2012 European Championships. Nostalgia-buffs might want far worse train stations in Poland, and the opening up of following. Always give an odd number of flowers (or stems)
to look out for Wroclaw’s old, communist-era airport, visible
as you taxi in from the runway and looking every inch as
McDonald‘s and KFC right inside the station have improved
things greatly. Extra security means fewer drunks, though Booze unless the occasion is a solemn one. If visiting somebody
with flowers be sure to remove the paper before you arrive.
though it had just starred in live-action a remake of Where the usual smattering of toothless wonders with their rancid While Polish beer elicits mixed reports from the foreign
Eagles Dare. dogs are still ten a penny. community, Polish vodka stands alongside the best, and the
There are press stores, refreshment kiosks, currency
exchange and ATMs aplenty in the arrivals hall, almost as
Facilities include modern (we mean it) toilets for 2.50zł, a
couple of ATMs and a currency exchange with rates so poor
country is rightfully seen as the ancient home of the wicked
sauce. The elite brands are commonly accepted as being
Climate
many as there are rogue taxi drivers offering to take you we‘d rather eat our money than change it here. A few lug- Chopin and Belvedere, though those who fancy themselves 80
Rainfall
20

into town for all the money in the wallet. Ignore them (and gage lockers can be found opposite the ticket windows (you as connoisseurs of mixology should try swallowing a szarlotka 70
Temperature
18

all other taxis for that matter) and head smartly out of the will need change). Larger bags can be left with the unsmiling - a sweet blend of Żubrówka vodka (produced with a blade of 16

terminal building, turning right and walking towards the line staff who man the drop-off point just to the left of the lockers. bison grass in the bottle) and apple juice. Drunks hankering 60

up of shiny white Ascotaxis (tel. 071 94 55). These chaps Note that left luggage is not open 24hrs: check if it will be for something a little more fiery should look no further than 14

will take you to the city centre for a fare of 40-45zł or €12-14, open when you want to pick up your bag. ordering a Mad Dog (Wściekły Pies) - a mix of vodka, Tabasco

Temperature (°C)
50
12

Rainfall (mm)
and though the drivers speak little English there is usually As for getting into town, you are basically in it. Most of the and raspberry juice; it’ll leave you seeing stars. One more to 40 10

a dispatcher on hand who will at least be able to com- city‘s hotels and hostels are within 15 minutes walking dis- look for, a specialty hailing from Gdańsk, is Goldwasser - a
municate your destination to the driver. Cheapskates can tance, and given that getting anywhere near the Old Town sweetish vodka sprinkled with goldleaf.
8
30

take bus No. 406 from outside arrivals to Wrocław’s main on public transport requires you take at least two trams, it But stand warned: Polish beer and vodka are rocket fuel. If 6

bus station, itself just behind the railway station. Tickets isn‘t really worth the hassle. If you really don‘t fancy the walk you’re determined to make a prat of yourself then make sure
20

cost 2.40zł and can be bought from the vending machines jump in an MPT Radio Taxi (071 91 91), as they are at least it’s not in front of the law. A trip to Wrocław’s premier drunk 10
2
next to the bus stop, the press kiosks inside the terminal allowed into the Old Town. (ul. Sokolnicza 16/20) tank will set you back 250zł for a 6-24
or direct from the driver. Remember to stamp your ticket as hour stay. In return for your cash expect a strip search, a set of 0
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
0

you get on board, and note that excessively bulky luggage Wrocław Główny Train Station (Dworzec Główny blue pyjamas and the company of a dozen mumbling vagrants. Institute of Meteorology and Water Management,
in theory warrants an extra charge of 1.20zł, but this rule PKP) B-6, Al. Piłsudskiego 105, tel. 071 717 16 74, Those resisting arrest will find themselves strapped down to www.imgw.pl
is rarely observed. www.pkp.pl. a bed, One Flew Over The Cuckoo’s Nest-style, and if you’re

Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com wroclaw.inyourpocket.com January - April 2009

14 BASICS BASICS 15

leading to confusion over who is and who isn’t queuing in the

Market values first place. Note that some municipal offices and post offices National holidays Language smarts
employ a ticket system to help organize queues. Many Poles, particularly younger people, have a fairly healthy
Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite January 1 New Year‘s Day
command of the English language. Many will also be adept at
increases over the last couple of years particularly in April 12, 2009 Easter Sunday
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday Religion April 13, 2009 Easter Monday
other European languages with German being the most commonly
spoken. Older Poles will fiercely contest that they have ‘forgotten’
products and prices. For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of May 1 Labour Day the Russian taught to them at school but most will still have a
Market values as of 16th December 2008 based on Catholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions May 3 Constitution Day (May 3, 1791) reasonable understanding.
May 31, 2009 Pentecost Sunday Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal and will often
€1 = 4.05zł and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national result in personal degradation as shop assistants laugh at your
unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many June 11, 2009 Corpus Christi
Product Price (zł) Price (€) flustered attempts. That aside, learning a few key phrases will smooth
turned to the church for solace and during the communist era, August 15 Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary also your time in Poland and may even win you friends and admirers.
McDonald’s Big Mac 7.10zł €1.75 Polish Army Day
Snickers 1.50zł €0.37 underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously held in On the positive side Polish sounds as it appears. This is a great
churches. The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains November 1 All Saints‘ Day help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination
0.5ltr vodka (shop) 25.00zł €6.17 November 11 Independence Day (Nov 11, 1918) of letters. Many letters represent the same sounds as they do in
0.5ltr beer (shop) 3.00zł €0.74 a genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way
December 25 First Day of Christmas English. Below we have listed those particular to Polish.
0.5ltr beer (bar) 7.00zł €1.73 more profound than cynics in the West can understand. Many
Poles genuinely believe that John Paul II single-handedly started December 26 Second Day of Christmas Basic pronunciation of Polish vowels
Loaf of white bread 2.25zł €0.56
20 Marlboros 9.20zł €2.27 the overthrow of Communism in Central and Eastern Europe. ‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) 3.86zł €0.95 Small wonder then, that your average Pole takes Catholicism ‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’
very seriously. Those used to the more easy-going habits of production centre for leading cigarette brands, with Phillip ‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’
Local transport ticket (1 journey) 2.40zł €0.59 Basic pronunciation of consonants
the West may find the Polish enthusiasm a bit unnerving at first, Morris, Imperial Tobacco and British American Tobacco all
‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’
particularly the solemn and opulent processions that occur being major investors in the economy. Those gunning for a ‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’
Decorative foil can be left on. Always give flowers with your from time to time and the droves that flock to mass. lung-busting taste of a traditional local brand should keep ‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’
left hand in order to shake or kiss the right hand of the their eyes peeled for brands like Sobieskie, Extra Mocne and ‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’
recipient. Attention should also be paid to colour. If you’re
proposing, then it’s red for your fiancée and pink for her Safety Męskie. Bear in mind that it is taken as bad luck to light your
snout off a candle, especially if you are close to the coast;
‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’
‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’
mother. Pink flowers are also considered the most neutral, In general Wrocław is far safer than most Western cities, and an action which apparently guarantees the death of a sailor. ‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’
‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’
so when in doubt use those. Yellow is the colour of envy, visitors are unlikely to face any problems. Petty crime does Non-smokers are in for a tough time, and the tobacco free ‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’
chrysanthemums are for the dead and carnations remain exist, and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets sections (dla niepalących) of restaurants are often in the ‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’
unpopular, especially among women, due to their communist working tram and bus routes by the train station. If you’re nether-regions of the venue. r is always rolled and stress is generally always on the last but
connotations. Good luck. in a bar or a restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser one syllable.
pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. Those
Toilets Think you’ve got that? Here are some words and phrases to get
Money travelling by car are advised to use a guarded car park. Avoid
being ripped off by opportunistic taxi gits by using clearly Generally speaking toilets in Poland come marked with a circle you started.
Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 100zł marked cabs, something to bear in mind around the train for women, and a triangle for men. Some restaurants and bars Civilities
notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops, newsagents, station and airport. If travelling on an overnight train make still charge a nominal fee for use of their facilities - no matter cześć (cheshch) hi/bye
public toilets, even the occasional fast food franchise and bar, sure your compartment is locked, and try if possible to book how much cash you’ve already spent in the establishment. dzień dobry (jen do-bri) good morning/
will refuse to break a large note for you. As annoying as coins onto a sleeper carriage; robberies are not unheard of on the This is a practice also used in train stations and most public afternoon
dobry wieczór (do-bri vyeh-choor) good evening
can be, do carry small change for such moments. Notes come Prague and Berlin route. conveniences. Keep small change handy. dobranoc (dobrah-nots) good night
in denominations of 200, 100, 50, 20 and 10 złotys, and there tak (tahk) yes
are 1, 2 and 5 złoty coins. One złoty equals 100 groszy which
come in 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 groszy coins. Smoking Visas nie
proszę
(nyeh)
(prosheh)
no
please
Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and Smokers tired of relentless persecution in the west will be Poland’s entrance into the EU has seen changes galore to visa na zdrowie (nah zdrovyeh) cheers
dziękuje (jen-koo-yeh) thank you
anywhere with a sign proclaiming it to be a Kantor and you will delighted to know that few countries can boast such a fierce requirements. Members of the EU, and citizens of Australia, przepraszam (psheh-prasham) sorry
also be able to withdraw currency at a bankomat using your commitment to the habit as Poland. Although the number New Zealand, Canada and the US can now enter Poland kocham cię (koham tshe) I love you
ATM card. A Kantor will often provide better value than the of male smokers has plunged from 70% of the population without a visa and stay for a period of three months (British Mam ma imię (mam nah ee-myeh) My name is
banks in your home country or the ATM although for obvious down to 38% in recent years, this is still very much a tobacco citizens can stay for six months). Visas are obligatory for citi- Jestem z Anglii (yehstem zanglee) I am from England
reasons be very wary of Kantors in the airports, bus stations friendly country. Poland is fast becoming the major European zens of any country which does not have an agreement with Necessities
and close to tourist sights. Shopping around will reward you Poland - you’ll find a relevant list available at www.msz.gov.pl. Gdzie są toalety? (gdjeh song toalety) Where are the toilets?
with the best rate. The Polish currency has been exceedingly Visas are not available at airports or land or sea borders and
strong in recent years and the value of the dollar has nearly Quick currency convertor therefore must be procured from a Polish consulate outside of
Czy mówi pan/pani (che moovee
po angielsku? pan/panee po
Do you (male/female)
speak English?
halved while you will be getting 25-40% less złoty for your Poland. Although there is no set price standard cost is 35Euro angyelskoo?)
PLN US$ Euro Pound Nie mówię po (nyeh moovyeh po I don’t speak Polish
euros and sterling than a couple of years back. Having said and waiting time is usually 14 days. Again, visas issued ap- polsku polskoo)
that prices for food, drink, cultural venues and transport still 2,97zł = $1 4.05zł = €1 4.52zł = £1 ply for 30 or 90 days. Since October 21, 2007 Poland has Proszę to napisać (prosheh toh Please write it down
remain comparatively cheap in contrast to Western Europe. A 1 zł $0,34 € 0,25 £0,22 been a member of the Schengen agreement leading to the napeesatch)
ticket to the theatre or cinema will rarely cost more than 20zł 2 zł $0,67 € 0,49 £0,44 elimination of border posts and between member countries. Czy można tu palić (che mohzhnah too Can I smoke here?
while admission to most museums costs around 5-10zł. 3 zł $1,01 € 0,74 £0,66 Currently this applies to land crossings, with airports due to paleech?)
4 zł $1,35 € 0,99 £0,88 fall into line on March 31, 2008. Those wishing to apply for Jedno piwo (yedno peevo poh- One beer please
5 zł $1,68 € 1,23 £1,11 poproszę prosheh)
Queuing 6 zł $2,02 € 1,48 £1,33
residency are required to visit the local Urzad Wojewódzki
office no later that 45 days before your visa expires. A short Numbers
Years of practice during the cold war era has meant that the 7 zł $2,36 € 1,73 £1,55 term residency issue can then be issued. Those looking to 1 jeden yehden
Poles have truly mastered the art of the queue: more to the 8 zł $2,69 € 1,98 £1,77 work in Poland must apply for permission from the Voivodeship 2 dwa dva
point, the art of queue barging. Whether you find yourself at a 9 zł $3,03 € 2,22 £1,99 Work Office. The process allegedly takes 14 days though can 3 trzy tshi
10 zł $3,37 € 2,47 £2,21 10 dziesięć jayshench
ticket counter, or your nearest KFC, do not make the mistake take longer depending on the office.
of being patient. ‘I’m late for something, can I go first’ is a com- 20 zł $6,73 € 4,94 £4,42
General
50 zł $16,84 € 12,35 £11,06
mon ploy used to fool foreigners into giving up their place in a
line. Old people in particular seem to assume that they should
100 zł $33,67 € 24,69 £22,12 Water Airport
Train station
lotnisko
dworzec pkp
150 zł $50,51 € 37,04 £33,19 Bus station dworzec pks
by rights be able to take position at the head of a line. The Water quality in Poland, although improving, is still not of a Right/left prawo/lewo
200 zł $67,34 € 49,38 £44,25
only time when the common rules of etiquette seem to apply standard that we would recommend you drink it. Bottled water One ticket to jeden bilet do
250 zł $84,18 € 61,73 £55,31
are in banks or outside ATMs, at which point the natives will 1 000 zł $336,70 € 246,91 £221,24 is widely available and tap water is acceptable for cooking First/second class pierwsza/druga klasa
assume a stance as far as possible from the next man, often with and for washing your teeth.

Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com wroclaw.inyourpocket.com January - April 2009

16 HISTORY HISTORY 17

Like much of Central Europe, Wrocław (Breslau) changed

hands every time the wind blew. But no matter who was Floods Breslau Easter
issuing orders from afar, from the very beginning Wrocław
was the largest and the culturally-dominant city in the Nature’s blind indifference You may know Wrocław under its old German name, As a d e epl y Ca t h oli c
region of Śląsk (Silesia). The area has been settled since to civilization was amply Breslau, especially if you are one of the German nostalgia coun tr y, Poland takes
Neolithic times. d em onstrate d i n 1997 tourists who has come to seek their roots. The Polish its Easter celebrations
when the city was hit by the name Wrocław actually predates the German name, and seriously; this is no place
9-10th century biggest flood in its history. is thought to have been derived from the name of the for th e Eas ter Bunn y.
The Slavic Slezan tribe builds a stronghold on what is now Starting on July 3, 1997 Czech sovereign Vratislav. Variants of the German name Throughout the period,
known as Ostrów Tumski. The tribe is absorbed into Czech six days of torrential rain began appearing in documents shortly after Poland lost the visiting foreigner can
lands and the fortress is thought to be named for the Czech battered Poland, Austria control of the region in 1335. Some sources claim that expect bars and restau-
leader Vratislav. The Polish Prince Mieszko I wins control of and the Czech Republic. By Frederick the Great changed the city’s name to Breslau in rants to be either empty
Wrocław and all of Silesia sometime around 990. July 6 the first towns and 1741, though this is subject to historical dispute. or closed.
villages were under water, With the German population expelled in 1945, and
11th century though worse was to come Poland’s borders shifted westwards, post-war Wrocław Traditionally Good Friday
King Bolesław establishes the Wrocław bishopric in on July 11 when the Odra was repopulated with citizens from what is now the (Wielki Post or Great Fast
1000, making the city a centre of the region‘s religious, and Oława rivers burst Ukrainian city of Lviv (formally Polish Lwów). The tens in Polish) is a day of ab-
and economic life. A stronghold and cathedral are built their banks by the town of of thousands of migrants who arrived from the east not stinence and Catholics
Siechnice. The torrent that only changed the ethnic make-up of the city, but also its visi t church to at tend Krzysztof Piś
on the spot where the Cathedral of John the Baptist is
located today. was unleashed rushed in cultural life. Treasures taken from Lwów and moved to stations of the cross – a
the direction of Wrocław, Wrocław include the Fredro statue in the main square, series of prayers following Jesus Christ’s route to his
12th century the wave hitting the city the library collection from the Ossolinski Institute, and crucifixion.
The century is marked by years of war among the Roman the following evening. By the epic painting the Racławice Panorama.
Empire, the Czech Premysl rulers and the Polish Piast‘s. In morning much of the city On Easter Saturday (22/03/2008) Poles, typically
1109 the Piast Duke Bolesław Krzywousty defeats Henryk resembled a lake, with children, will take brightly decorated baskets of food
V at the battle of Psie Pole, driving him out of Silesia. The some parts of Wrocław 19th century to church to have them blessed. In these baskets
legendary victory becomes symbolic of Polish triumph over submerged by up to three At the beginning of the century Breslau‘s population is will typicall y be a piece of sausage, bread, eg g,
German incursions. Ethnic Germans nonetheless settle the metres of water. Electricity 65,000. It will be eight times that by 1900. In 1807 Napo- mazurek cake (a traditional Easter cake), some salt,
area in droves. was cut, transpor t leon‘s army enters the city after a long siege. Churches and some horseradish and a symbolic ram made from
paralyzed and telephone monasteries are secularised in 1810. When the German Reich dough In addition ‘pisanki’ are included which are
13th century lines destroyed. The two is consolidated in 1871, Breslau is the third-largest city after painted boiled eggs which have been prepared in the
Silesia, with Wrocław at its centre, is among the most stable, Flood monument water plants had also been Berlin and Hamburg. lead-up to Easter by the whole family. Each of these
prosperous and developed areas in Poland. After the Tartar Dariusz Bajak hit, leaving over 650,000 components of the basket has a symbolic meaning.
invasion nearly destroys the city in 1241, city leaders use habitants without water for 20th century The eggs and meat symbolize new life, fertility and
the opportunity to draw plans for a new city. A plan is drawn the following three weeks. As affected sewage plants By 1935, Breslau‘s population has reached 630,000; health, the salt protects against bad spirits and helps
up for a massive market square (rynek), which has much the were overwhelmed the threat of epidemic loomed. With 20,000 are Polish. Most of Breslau‘s roughly 20,000 you follow the right path, the bread symbolizes the
same layout as today. a third of the city covered by water Wrocław presented Jews flee when Hitler comes to power. The Nazis expel body of Christ and by this future prosperity in terms
an apocalyptic nightmare. But the response of the Polish students from the university. In September 1944 of always having food to feed yourself, the horserad-
14th century citizens and emergency services was emphatic. Over 50 the city is declared Festung Breslau: the closed fortress ish represents strength and physical health and the
Henry VI, the last of the Piast dynasty dies in 1336. By previ- kilometres of sandbag barriers had been hastily erected, of Breslau. Soviet forces begin their attack in January cake represents skills and talents needed for the
ous agreement, Silesia passes to the control of the Kingdom thereby saving numerous historical buildings and 1945, expecting to take the city in a matter of days. coming year.
of Bohemia. The area will not be under Polish rule again until treasures; among them the Cathedral island. A massive The siege lasts until May 6 when the commander of the
1945. The city becomes a member of the Hanseatic league evacuation project was also launched with thousands of city capitulates. C om e Ea s ter Sun da y (23/03/2008), famili e s
in 1387. The German name for the city, Prezzla, which later children spirited away from the disaster zone. will gath er togeth er to celebrate wi th an Easter
becomes Breslau, first appears in documents in 1337. Over 162,000 people were evacuated, fifty five killed Post-war Wrocław breakfast of zurek (Polish r ye soup), bread, eg gs,
and 1,358 towns and villages had been hit over an 1945-79: Poland falls under the Soviet sphere of influ- sausage, horseradish and poppy seed cakes. Each
15th century affected area that spanned 400,000 hectares. In the ence. Business is nationalised; political and religious person places a small piece of the blessed food
The powerful merchant class controls the Town Council days that followed huge swathes of Wrocław were only leaders are imprisoned. The Communists consolidate on their plate before exchanging wishes wi th other
and is often at odds with the church and the lower classes. accessible by pontoon or helicopter. In material terms a political monopoly after rig ged elections in 1947. In members of the famil y. The symbolic dough ram is
This comes to a head in 1418 when craftsmen revolt and the damage caused topped 5.5 billion złoty, as well as 1955 the Warsaw Pact is created. Under the leadership placed on the table to symbolize the resurrection
behead the mayor. destroying 100,000 cars, 87 railways stations and 56 of Władysław Gomułka in October 1956 a political thaw of Christ. The Sunday tradi tionall y sees an earl y
sewage plants. begins. The 1970‘s initially see improvements in living morning mass wi th procession which is called Re-
16th century standards built on foreign loans. In October 1978, Car- zurekcja (Resurrection) which is then followed by
In 1526 King Ludwig of the Jagiellons dies in the Battle of dinal Karol Wojtyła is elected Pope and takes the name Easter breakfast.
Mohacz against the Turks. The Bohemian estates elect Duke John Paul II. The following year he returns for nine days
Ferdinand as the next King of Bohemia. to his homeland. Now a warning. Things take a more lighthear ted
1980: A general strike is called in August by the fledgling twist on Easter Monday (24/03/2008). Known as
17th century Solidarność trade union, led by Lech Wałęsa. Śmingus Dyngus the day is dominated by public
Both plague and The Thirty Year‘s War (1618-48) take their 1981: Martial law is declared December 13. water fights and ever yone is gi ven car te blanche
toll on the city. By the time the Treaty of Westphalia is signed, 1982: Solidarność is outlawed by the government. to drench anyone they see wi th water. You, as a
the city has lost half its population. 1985-88: Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev‘s perestroika foreigner, are not exempt from this practice, so
reforms initiate a period of liberalization. move fast if you see someone armed wi th a water
18th century 1989: Partly-free elections are held. Solidarność sweeps the pistol or bucket and a grin. Al th ou gh i t’s never
After the Great Northern War (1700-1721), Poland is more elections and the Communist regime collapses. pleasant to have a jug of water thrown over your
or less absorbed into the Russian Empire. The country will 1990: Lech Wałęsa becomes the first popularly-elected head, this is an improvement from the past when
suffer through three humiliating partitions in the latter half president of post-Communist Poland on December 9th. young people would be beaten with sticks from Palm
of the century. But Wrocław‘s - now Breslau‘s - fortunes at 1997: The Odra and Oława rivers, which converge in the Sunday trees - which apparentl y brought luck and
this point are tied less to Poland than to Austria and Prussia. historic centre of Wrocław, burst their banks and flood over strength for the year ahead.
After the Seven Years‘ War (1756-63), Prussia formally gains Piotr Hawałej a third of the city on July 12.
control of the region. 2004: Poland enters the EU May 1st.

Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com wroclaw.inyourpocket.com January - April 2009

18 CULTURE & EVENTS CULTURE & EVENTS 19

Ethnographic Museum (Muzeum Etnograficzne)

Culturally Wrocław has grown into one of the most exciting
cities in Poland, giving Kraków‘s claim to 'cultural capital' Cinemas H-5, ul. Traugutta 111/113, tel. 071 344 33 13, www. Wrocław Opera
an earnest run for the money. With an esteemed opera, Cinema City Korona Psie Pole, ul. Krzywoustego 126c, muzeumetnograficzne.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Thu
puppet, pantomime and song theatre troupes, a clutch tel. 071 323 60 00, www.cinema-city.pl. Q Box office 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5/3zł. Groups over Wrocław Opera (Opera Wrocławska) A-4, ul.
of great museums and galleries, and a festival calendar open depending on repertoire. Tickets 14-28zł. 10 people 2zł per person. Sat free. Świdnicka 35, tel. 071 344 57 79, www.opera.
luring more high-profile international acts each year, Helios K. Wielkiego A-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego Wrocław City Museum (Muzeum Miejskie wroclaw.pl. Opera in Wrocław can be traced back as
Wrocław has something to offer everyone. Check here to 19a-21, tel. 071 786 65 66, www.heliosnet.pl. Al- Wrocławia) A-3, ul. Sukiennice 14/15, tel. 071 347 far as the first part of the 17th century when operatic
see what‘s on each month, and don‘t miss the National, ways plenty of films to choose from at this multi-screen 16 90, www.mmw.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. troupes performed at the Ballhaus (located on ul. Wita
Ethnographic and Architecture museums, or Galeria Awan- cinemaplex. Q Box office open depending on repertoire. Admission 10/7zł. Stwosza) although it appears that 1725-34 were the
garda before leaving town. Great live music can regularly Tickets 13-28zł. years were opera became truly established thanks to
Helios Magnolia Park E-4, ul. Legnicka 58, tel. the presence of Italian operatic troupes in the city. In
be heard in Firlej and Szepty music clubs, or to step far
outside the mainstream head to CRK. Enjoy Wrocław. 071 355 53 55, www.heliosnet.pl. Excellent modern, Theatres 1727 the theatre was given the tilte of city theatre and
multi-screen cinema in the Magnolia Park shopping cen- Capitol Music Theatre (Teatr Muzyczny Capitol) then in 1755 a new theatre, called Kalten Asche was
tre. Q Box office open depending on repertoire. Tickets A-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 67, tel. 071 789 04 52, www.teatr- built on what today is the corner of ul. Oławska and ul.
For the latest Wrocław 14-21zł. capitol.pl. With its roots in the post-WWII Popular Theatre Piotra Skargi. This venue saw its greatest years at the
end of the 18th century when five of Mozart’s operas
Lalka Cinema H-3, ul. Prusa 32, tel. 071 792 44 05, (now home to the city’s Holiday Inn), the Capitol Music Theatre
events information visit www.odra-film.wroc.pl. Q Box office open depending on performs operetta, variety shows and musicals. See their were staged here between 1787 and 1795. The theatre
wrocław.inyourpocket.com repertoire. Tickets 14/13zł.
Lwów Cinema Krzyki, ul. Hallera 15, tel. 071 793 50
website for information on upcoming performances. Q Box
office open 12:00 - 19:00, Sun one hour before performance.
was officially named the Royal Theatre in Wrocław in
1795. After Carl Maria von Weber took over the director-
78, www.odra-film.wroc.pl. Q Box office open depending Tickets 12-40zł. ship of the opera at the very start of the 19th century
Contemporary Theatre (Teatr Współczesny) A-3, the theatre continued to figure highly in the world of
Art galleries on repertoire. Tickets 14/13zł.
Warszawa Cinema A-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 64, tel. 071 ul. Rzeźnicza 12, tel. 071 358 89 22, www.wteatrw.pl. opera. Many operas appeared here shortly after their
City Gallery (Galeria Miejska) A-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 792 43 83, www.odra-film.wroc.pl. Q Box office open A slick modern theatre with an experimental touch. Q Box premieres incluing Beethoven’s only opera Fidelio.
28, tel. 071 344 67 20, www.galeriamiejska.art.pl. Since depending on repertoire. Tickets 14/13zł. office open 12:00 - 19:00. Sun open 2 hours before perfor- The current building dates to 1841 and was designed
its opening in 1991 this gallery’s remit has been to promote mance. Closed Mon. Tickets 18-32zł. in a classicist style by Carl Ferdinand Langhans. When
Jerzy Grotowski`s Centre (Instytut im. Jerzego opened it was extremely modern with space for 1600
modern art in all its various forms - including sculpture and
installations. Lots of weird and wonderful stuff on display. Cultural Centres Grotowskiego) A-3, Rynek-Ratusz 27, tel. 071 343 42 spectators. The opera continued to perform, pretty much
QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Impart Art Centre (Centrum Sztuki Impart) 67, www.grotowski-institute.art.pl. Looking for something without a break, until 1944. Productions during this period
Admission free. D-3, ul. Mazowiecka 17, tel. 071 344 28 16, www. different then, look no further. Not exactly everybodies cup featured works by Wagner, Verdi, Puccini and Strauss and
Design Gallery B-3, ul. Świdnicka 2-4, tel. 071 790 11 impart.art.pl. Q Box office open 15:00 - 18:00, Closed of tea, but thats what makes Jerzy’s something different. If over the years many of the biggest names in European
93, www.bwa.wroc.pl. You could easily pretend you were Sat, Sun. you can ignore the pretentious name (not an easy task) you opera appeared here.
inside some achingly cool London art gallery while, inside The Bente Kahan Foundation E-4, ul. Włodkowica might just enjoy yourself. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed After World War II, the opera started up again remarkably
Design. A fantastic addition to the Wrocław Art scene. The 5, tel. 071 782 81 23, www.fbk.org.pl. QOpen 10:00 - Sat, Sun. quickly with the first production taking place on the 8th
lack of sweeping landscapes with peasants hard at work is 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. Pantomime Theatre (Wrocławski Teatr Pan- of September 1945. The Wrocław Opera became a key
a refreshing break from the majority of Polish art galleries. tomimy im. Henryka Tomaszewskiego) E-4, element in the reviving of the city’s cultural and musical
traditions.
A beautiful space with some thought provoking exhibitions.
QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Dance & Music Świebodzki Stage, Pl. Orląt Lwowskich 20c, tel.
071 337 21 03, www.pantomima.wroc.pl. Founded The current repertoire features classical opera and
Admission free. Academy of Music (Akademia Muzyczna) E-4, in 1958 b y H enr yk Tomaszewski, Wro cła w’s on c e ballet pieces and cover a wide spectrum from Mozart
Galeria Awangarda B-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 32, tel. Pl. Jana Pawła II 2, tel. 071 355 72 76, www.amuz. legendar y experimental theatre is now in the hands to Prokoviev. The thing that sets Wrocław Opera apart
071 790 25 82, www.bwa.wroc.pl. The largest gal- wroc.pl. Occasional free classical music concer ts. of Tomaszewski’s student, Aleksander Sobiszewski. from other opera companies is its productions of un-
lery of BWA Wrocław, and Wrocław’s most cutting-edge, QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free As they don’t have their own home they per form at usual operatic events including its staging of operas
Awangarda is located within the old Hatzfeld Palace. De- for all concerts. the Polish Theatre (Cameral stage) Świdnick 28 or at outside of the theatre in parks, city squares and even
stroyed during World War II, this ‘living ruin’ was adapted Lower Silesian Cultural Centre (Dolnośląskie Cen- Zapolskiej 3 (Grzegrorzewkiego stage). Be warned, they the cloisters of the National Museum. Its crowning
into an art space and now runs exhibitions that comment trum Informacji Kulturalnej) A-3, Rynek-Ratusz 24, don’t per form at Ul. Dębowa. Q Tickets available at event each year is the superproduction in the Cente-
on current social and political issues, never shying from tel. 071 342 22 91, www.dcik.pl. Come here for complete Polish Theatre box office (ul. Zapolska 3, A-5, Open nary Hall, which are the biggest operatic productions
controversy. Passersby can see the exhibits through the information on what`s happening in Wrocław and the sur- 11:00 -14:00, 15:00 - 19:00, Sun two hours before in Poland and are watched by 4,000 people with the
huge streetside bay windows and the lobby hosts a bril- rounding area. You can also buy tickets to most events here. per formance. Closed Mon). Tickets 10-30zł. involvement of hundreds of European performers and
liant cafe. Recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Polish Theatre (Teatr Polski) A-5, ul. Zapolskiej 3, huge sets and lighting. In summer keep an eye for
Mon. Admission 8/4zł. Wrocław Philharmonic (Filharmonia Wrocławska) tel. 071 316 07 01, www.teatrpolski.wroc.pl. Q Box the performances in the Summer Operatic Festival,
Glass & Ceramics Gallery (Galeria Szkła i Cera- E-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 19, tel. 071 342 20 01, www.filhar- office open 11:00 -14:00, 15:00 - 19:00, Sun two hours before another element of the Wrocław opera, which takes
miki) A-5, Pl. Kościuszki 9/10, tel. 071 784 39 00, monia.wroclaw.pl. The Witold Lutosławski Philharmonic in performance. Closed Mon. Tickets 11- 50zł. opera into the charming and historic streets of the city.
www.bwa.wroc.pl. A giant glass ball - and other, more Wrocław represents one part of the history of Philharmonic Puppet Theatre (Teatr Lalek) A-4, Pl. Teatralny 4, Q Box office open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 19:00,
practical works. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. in the city which has a long history and has played a major tel. 071 344 12 16, www.teatrlalek.wroclaw.pl. Estab- Sun 14:30 - 17:00 and one hour before the spectacle.
Closed Sun. Admission free. role in the music of the city. Built in 1862, concerts have lished in 1946 as a simple children’s theatre, contemporary Tickets 10-150zł.
Lower Silesian Photography Centre (Dolnośląskie been performed here 1878 and over the years Johannes performances include a range of works from the former to
Centrum Fotografii) B-2, Pl. Nankiera 8, tel. 071 344 Brahms, Joseph Joachim, Edward Grieg, Gustav Mahler and interpretations of Goethe, Kafka, Shakespeare and Schulz.
78 40, www.okis.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Max Bruch were all guests here. After WWII, a new group Q Box office open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun two hours before
Admission free. of enthusiasts brought the Philharmonic back to life and performance. Closed Mon. Tickets 15-40zł.
M Odwach Gallery A-4, ul. Świdnicka 38a, tel. 071 the Wrocław Philharmonic was created in 1954 with Witold Song Theatre (Teatr Piosenki) D-4, ul. Mazowiecka
372 44 96, www.galeriam.com. Small gallery in a 18-th Lutosławski becoming its patron in 1994. Q Box office open 17, tel. 071 341 76 94, www.teatrpiosenki.pl. Estab-
century guardhouse. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 11:00 - 15:00, 15:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun one hour lished in 2005, up to now it has put on recitals and musical
15:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. before performance. Tickets 15-150zł. shows. Its stage has been graced by famous names like
Na Solnym Gallery A-3, Pl. Solny 11, tel. 071 342 37 Robert Gonera, Mariusz Kiljan and Magda Kumorek Q Box
79, www.galerianasolnym.pl. Mostly paintings with a great
cafe next door. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Sat 13:00 - 16:00. Museums office open 15:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun one hour before perfor-
mance. Tickets 20-40zł.
Closed Sun. Admission free. Architecture Museum (Muzeum Architektury) C-3, Świebodzki Stage (Scena na Świebodzkim) E-4,
Tkacka Na Jatkach Gallery A-2, ul. Jatki 19/23, tel. ul. Bernardyńska 5, tel. 071 344 82 78, www.ma.wroc. Pl. Orląt Lwowskich 20c, tel. 071 341 29 54, www.
071 344 38 78, www.galeria.md4.pl. Textiles, including pl. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 12:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - teatrpolski.wroc.pl. Q Box office open 11:00 - 14:00,
embroidery, linen and lacework. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 7/5zł. Groups over 10 people 15:00 - 19:00, Sun two hours before performance. Closed fot: M. Grotowski
Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. 3zł per person. Wed free. Mon. Tickets 15-50zł.

Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com wroclaw.inyourpocket.com January - April 2009

20 CULTURE & EVENTS CULTURE & EVENTS 21

28 January The Black 15 February-15 April Bruno

January 2009 Dahlia Murder E-5, Firlej, Taut, Master of Colour Asymmetry Festival
02-04 January Swing! ul.Grabiszyńska 56, www. Buildings in Berlin C-3, Ar-
Duke Ellington Show A-5, go-ahead.pl. Death metal heads chitecture Museum, ul.
Capitol Music Theatre, ul. raise your index and little fingers Bernardyńska 5, tel. 071 344
Piłsudskiego 67, tel. 071 in salute! A treat is in store as the 82 78, www.ma.wroc.pl. This
789 04 52, w w w.teatr- bill doesn’t just include The Black touring exhibition celebrates the
capitol.pl. Enter the Jazz age Dahlia Murder: the name is taken 125th anniversary of the birth of
with this all-singing all-dancing from the slaying of famous American artist Elizabeth Short, per- hugely influential architect Bruno
show based around the won- haps via the Ellroy novel or later film. No, other blood curdling acts Taut. Working mainly before and after the First World War, his main
derful music of Duke Ellington. If you’ve seen the Cotton Club, like Cephalic Carnage, Psycroptic and Sylosis (isn’t that a skin aim was to create light and colourful living spaces. His work is
you’ll know the atmosphere - a big band, showy costumes complaint?) are here to tell their scary stories too. Q Concert seen as marking a turning point in 20th century housing and
and the best tap dancers around, including 12-year old Dan- starts at 20:00. Tickets 69/59zł. Available at www.eventim.pl, housing estate design. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 12:00 - 18:00,
iel Budlovsky - world junior tap champion. Q Events 02- www.ticketpro.pl and www.ticketonline.pl. Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 7/5zł. Groups over 10
03/01 start at 19:00, 04/01 at 17:00. Tickets 25-40zł. people 3zł per person. Wed free.
Available at Capitol Music Theatre box office (Open 12:00 - 29-30 January Die Fleder-
maus - Operetta A-4,
19:00, Sun one hour before performance).
Wrocław Opera, ul. Świdnicka March 2009
12-30 January Pretty Miss Rosenthal, Jurek Kozi- 35, tel. 071 344 57 79, www. 04-08 March High School
eras - Exhibition A-3, City Gallery, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 28, opera.wroclaw.pl. One of Jo- Musical - Ice Tour I-4, Hala
tel. 071 344 67 20, www.galeriamiejska.art.pl. Jurek hann Strauss’ most enduring and Stulecia, ul. Wystawowa 1,
Kozieras is an original artist who concentrates on natural endearing works. First performed www.alterartshow.pl. See
topics and human interaction with nature. In a way his work in 1874, it is a lively comedy with your favouri te scenes and
presents personal histories; he incorporates evryday items, © M. Grotowski all the required operatic ele- characters from the movies
often dug up in Wroclaw, in his art. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00 , ments present and correct, namely love, betrayal and crime. Q played out on ice. Prepared by
Sat 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Operettas start at 19:00. Tickets 10-150zł. Available at Wrocław world famous choreographer 17-26 April Asymmetry Festival E-5, Firlej,
Opera box office (Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 19:00, Sun Kenny Ortega, the show is full of singing, dancing and technical Grabiczyńska 56, tel. 071 795 66 67, www.firlej.
16-25 January A History of Sin 14:30 - 17:00 and one hour before the spectacle). wizardry. Q Spectacles start at 04-05/03 at 19:00, wroc.pl. The idea behind this two weekend affair is to
- Musical Show A-5, Capitol Mu- 06/03 at 12:00, 19:00, bring together a number of bands who over the years have
been influenced by the American rock band Neurosis.
sic Theatre, ul. Piłsudskiego 67,
tel. 071 789 04 52, www.teatr- February 2009 07/03 at 12:00, 15:30, 19:00,
08/03 at 11:00, 14:30. Tickets 45-85zł. Available at www. However, the scope of the festival is ambitious and is
capitol.pl. This musical is based on 05-28 February Tomasz ticketpro.pl and www.eventim.pl. way more than a simple retrospective or collection of
a story by Polish heavyweight writer Gudzowaty - Exhibition tribute acts, expect new avenues and directions for rock
Żeromski from 1908. If you fancy the B-2, Lower Silesian Photogra- 10-12 March Stomp A-5, Polish music to be explored. All of the artists performing inhabit
tale of a woman, her tragic love affair, phy Centre, Pl. Nankiera 8, Theatre, ul. Zapolskiej 3, tel. 022 the experimental side of things, collapsing the distinction
her innocence, betrayal, death and tel. 071 344 78 40, www. 696 99 00, www.makroconcert.pl. between verse and chorus for example, the devils. It all
forgiveness, this is for you. It’s di- okis.pl. This photographer’s The last time they visited Brits Stomp goes under the heading of assymetric rock, hence the
rected by Anna Kękuś-Poks and the work captures everything from had to expand the tour from 5 to 18 name of the festival. It’s not just about the music either.
music is by Krzesimir Dębski. Q Spectacles 16-17/01 and synchronised swimming, Shao- shows, such was the interest and de- There will be an exhibition based on themes of assymetry
23-24/01 start at 19:00, 18/01 and 25/01 at 17:00. Tickets lin training, Chinese gymnasts to mand. Making music by banging any- in our lives too.
25-40zł. Available at Capitol Music Theatre box office (Open Hindu Yoga and has been exhibited all over the world. For a taste thing and everything, mainly dustbins, Come along and see US gloom mongers A Storm of Light
12:00 - 19:00, Sun one hour before performance). of what to expect you should have a look at www.gudzowaty. their brand of musical mayhem has as they bring their downbeat rock assessment of the
com Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. made them world famous. Q Ticket world to Wrocław. Tephra from Germany play a rowdy
21-22 January Musical Box prices and schedule were undecided at mixture of hardcore, sludge (a new one for me) and doom.
A-5, Capitol Music Theatre, ul. 13 February SBB - Con- press time. Please check website for updates as they happen. Blindhead from Gdynia combine a mixture of lyrical and
Piłsudskiego 67, tel. 071 789 cert E-5, Firlej, Grabiczyńska heavier sounds.
04 52, www.teatr-capitol.pl. 56, tel. 032 205 25 00, 26 March Cinderella - The festival runs for two weekends - 17-19 and 24-26
This is a rock musical based w w w.metalmind.com.pl. Opera A-4, Wrocław Opera, April. Come along and support what promises to be a
around the life of an unstable Blues-Jazz-Prog rockers SBB ul. Świdnicka 35, tel. 071 cracking event. Q Full schedule available at www.asym-
© Bartłomiej Sowa young woman in a mental health have been going since 1971 344 57 79, w w w.opera. metryfest.pl. Ticket prices were undecided at press time.
hospital. She’s lonely and rebellious and wants us to know about and in their early days played wroclaw.pl. Johann Strauss’ Please check the website for updates as they happen.
it. When first performed it received awards from the OFF 29 jury. with Polish rock legend Czesław 5 act adaptation of the old
The show is a multimedia affair with video projections. Also Niemen. January sees the release of a new CD, so the concert favourite - ugly sisters, a fairy
showing 17-18 February. Q Event starts at 20:00. Tickets will be a chance to hear some new material as well as their godmother, a handsome prince
22-36zł. Available at Capitol Music Theatre box office (Open old favourites. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 50/45zł. © M. Grotowski and a glass slipper... Q Opera
12:00 - 19:00, Sun one hour before performance). Available at Firlej box office (Open 08:00 - 16:00, Closed Sat, starts at 19:00. Tickets 10-150zł. Available at Wrocław Opera
Sun). box office (Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 19:00, Sun 14:30
24 January Helmet - Con- - 17:00 and one hour before the spectacle).
cer t E-5, Firlej, ul. 14 February Girls against
Grabiszyńska 56, tel. 071 795 Boys - Concert E-5, Firlej, 27-30 March Vth International
66 67, www.go-ahead.pl. If ul. Grabiczyńska 53, tel. H. Halska Vocal Competition
you’ve seen the cult movie you 071 795 66 67, www.firlej. E-4, Academy of Music, Pl. Jana
will have heard Helmet, they wroc.pl. Influential Washing- Pawła II 2, tel. 071 355 72 76, www.
provided the soundtrack. Found- ton indie-rockers Girls against amuz.wroc.pl. Th e first time this
ed in New York in 1985 they mix Boys have been plying their competition has gone international.
hard core and metal with ele- trade since the 90’s. One curi- Last year there were 30 participants
ments of jazz.QConcert starts ous fact is that they have two bass players so expect the with the winner bringing down the final
at 20:00. Tickets 69/59zł. Avail- earth to move, or at least rumble a bit. Q Concert starts at cur tain. Q Event star ts at 10:00.
able at www.eventim.pl and Firlej 20:00. Ticket prices were undecided at press time. Please Concert 30/03 starts at 19:00. Admis-
box office (Open 08:00 - 16:00, Closed Sat, Sun). check website for updates as they happen. © W. Rzeżuchowski sion free.

Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com wroclaw.inyourpocket.com January - April 2009

22 CULTURE & EVENTS PRESS & MAIL 23

National Museum April 2009 Dear Editor,

Attending the climate conference in Poznan I got my hands
Your brochure was handed to us by a Polish beauty in Bierhalle
in Manufaktura (Lodz), where we were falling over with laughter
01 April A Broadway Musical on your city guide and read it thoroughly. Among others you from it. Have you guys ever seen another tourist brochure? You
National Museum - Thriller Live I-4, Hala Stule- published a letter that accuses you accuses of running texts are not supposed to tell tourists all that bad stuff. The roads of
(Muzeum Narodowe) cia, ul. Wystawowa 1, tel. 022 that are political, snotty and snide. I could not agree more! both Paris and Rome could use some new asphalt also, but as
D-3, Pl. Powstańców 696 99 00, w w w.macrocon- Your booklet is so different from the usual guides financed far as I know, they have never apologised for it!
Warszawy 5, tel. 071 cert.pl. Owww! You know the hits, by tourism boards where they try to convince you that you Seriously, it was a great brochure, and next time I go to Lodz in
372 51 50, w w w. you’ve enjoyed the videos, now have just arrived in the Capital of Paradise. Please keep December, there are lots of new places I want to see. Anyhow, I
mn.wroclaw.pl. Paint- come and see the musical of the up that standard and that style. You had me laughing out feel I’ve discovered a new country in Europe. The country is not very
ings, sculptures, engrav- gloved one’s life. Our sources tell loud several times during a bus ride. By the time I got off, far from me, I know more people from that country than any other
ings, photographs and handicrafts are exhibited in a Dutch us that when Michael saw the Poznanians must have started worrying about a strange country except for Sweden, I have been there before, eight years
Neo-Renaissance building from the 19th century. Both show for himself, he couldn’t stop breed of lunatics visiting their city - maybe originating from ago, to the same town we went now, and yet, if you had put me in
permanent and temporary exhibitions show precious crying... It has been all over the one of the UFOs you write so superbly about..... the town centre, I would have thought I was in Oslo or Helsinki, if
items from the Middle Ages to the present day from Lower world and finally arrives in Poland Cheers, you had put me in the outskirts I would have thought I was in Paris,
Silesia, Poland and Europe. and is full of all the later hits as well Melita S., Budapest if you had put me in one of the markets I would have thought I was
Permanent exhibitions as the earlier tunes he did with his brothers in the Jackson in Italy and if you put me in the country side I would have thought
- Silesian Art from the 12th to 19th century: Stone and 5. Q Ticket prices and schedule were undecided at press I was in Germany. And if you haven’t guessed which country I am
wood sculptures, paintings, objects of artistic craft. time. Please check the website for updates as they hap- To whom it may concern, talking about, it’s Poland, and the city of Łodź. It’s had an extreme
- Polish Art from the 17th to the 19th century: Polish ar- pen. My family and I were in Poland in July and we visited makeover, becoming prosperous, pretty and even a little bit posh.
tefacts and paintings by Gierymski, Grottger, Malczewski Warsaw and Krakow. While in Warsaw we had a copy of If you, like us, watched CNN the day when Obama was elected, you
and Matejko.
-Polish Art of the 20th century: Paintings, sculptures, Ongoing Warsaw In Your Pocket and my husband and I thought
it was the best guide ever!! We laughed ourselves
might have noticed that in between there was a commercial that
told you to “come to Łodź and be a star”. Which is what we did – and
ceramics, glass, photographs. Until 08 February Archi- silly reading the restaurant and bar reviews for hours we felt like stars all the time we were there.
QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 - tect Oscar Niemeyer, and HATS OFF to the editorial team who put this guide The first noticeable difference happened in the airport. Eight years
18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 15/10zł. Groups over Brazil - Exhibition C-3, together. We loved the twisted sense of humour in some ago we were greeted by an officer in Eastern European grey uniform
10 people 5zł per person. Sat free. Architecture Museum, ul. of the descriptions and if it didn't make you laugh then with a gun on each hip, (creepy for us who grew up to fear the
Bernardyńska 5, tel. 071 there must be something wrong with you. I just wanted communists). He tried to, and succeeded in convincing us that to get
09 February - 15 March 344 82 78, www.ma.wroc. to let you know that we appreciated the guide and all into Poland, we had to pay him something and as the suckers we are,
Japanese Art Inspirations pl. This exhibition celebrates it had to offer. we did. This time we were greeted by a Polish beauty in NATO uniform
in Wojciech Weiss’ Works the architecture of the great Brenda Rollins who, with a sparkling smile, wished us welcome to Poland and just
Wojciech Weiss is one of Poland’s modernist Oscar Niemeyer. His work was inspired by the Halifax, Canada waved at us when we wanted to show our passports.
most famous artists. This exhibi- curves and shapes of the Brazilian landscape. Perhaps his The next thing we noticed was how clean it was. We are talking
tion gathers together over 200 of most famous project is the UNESCO site and Brazilian admin- German clean on the inside (which basically means you can drink out
his works - oil paintings, pastels istrative capital Brazilia. The exhibition comprises photogra- Recently flying back from my home city Poznan I picked up your of their toilet bowls) and Scandinavian clean on the outside: Poles do
and wood carvings - and focuss- phy by Slowenian historian Damian Prelovska. Q Open 10:00 Poznan In Your Pocket brochure. I showed it yesterday to my not litter. And when we arrived in Łodź, the difference was even more
es on the inspiration Weiss has - 16:00, Thu 12:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. partner’s parents who are English. I wanted to advertise Poznan noticeable. The most surprising thing, however, was the people, the
drawn from Japanese culture. Q Admission 7/5zł. Groups over 10 people 3zł per person. Wed as an interesting cultural city which is worth a visit, though when Poles. They have now learned English to such an extent that they
Open 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 09:00 - free. they started reading your magazine they said that it shows them are easy to communicate with. Most sales ladies and waiters speak
16:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Closed more of a negative picture of the city than positive. Additionally English so that is no problem, and even if you should go into a “hole in
Mon, Tue. Admission 15/10zł. Groups over 10 people 5zł Until 08 March Marian the English language used is very casual and uses a lot of slang the wall” - where the food is always excellent and cost next to nothing,
per person. Sat free. Późniak - Exhibition C-3, which does not go in line with the officially published text. Please and the lady there does not speak English, some of her customers
Architecture Museum, ul. could you let me know if you need more information or examples will, and they are dying to speak it and dying to help you.
Until 31 January Bernardyńska 5, tel. 071 regarding to the above suggestions. I was born and grew up Love from Bente Brenna, Hvitsten, Norway
City’s faces-the 344 82 78, www.ma.wroc. in Poznan and really do not believe that main recommended
Iconography of pl. Marian Późniak has long attraction of the city is for lads to “Hold a piss-up in a brewery”.
Wrocław A collection been one of of the most impor- Izabela Hello Sir
of 550 objects con- tant local ar tist. His style Lodz In Your Pocket is brilliant and one of the best guide
nected with Wrocław’s combines elements of social books I have ever had the pleasure to use.
histor y go on sh ow realism, structuralism and the Called into Il Sole (Warsaw) back in July, looking for Not only did Lodz IYP help us to find out where to go but
inside an exhibi tion in-formal. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 12:00 - 18:00, Sun somewhere basic but with reasonable quality. it also made us laugh loads. Keep up the good work and
which spans the 15th century to modern day. Divided 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 7/5zł. Groups over 10 Decor and surroundings were as you say in the guide, a merry Christmas to you
into five the story of Wrocław is presented in the following people 3zł per person. Wed free. nice bit of bread & oil as appetiser, but unfortunately we Hosk
sections: medieval, renaissance, baroque, 19th century, both ordered the lasagne. I reckon the recipe must have
20th century. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 09:00 - 16:00, Until 31 January FOTO been guessed at from a photo of a 1980’s English pub
Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 15/10zł. 2008 - Exhibition B-2, lasagne! The obligatory white oval oven-dish arrived with
Groups over 10 people 5zł per person. Sat free. Lower Silesian Photography some more bread ... surface looked uniformly smooth
Centre, Pl. Nankiera 8, tel. and cheesy. However prodding with the fork established Poland Happenings
Until 29 March Jew- 071 344 78 40, www.okis. that the bowl contained nothing but melted cheese ... Poland is an increasingly important centre of culture,
els of Europe - Exhi- pl. A wide variery of work is on correction, there seemed to be a small rectangle of and artisans, performers and musicians from all over
bition Your chance to show with different techniques pasta (smaller than a playing-card) at the bottom of the the world now regularly arrive here to showcase their
see this famous medieval as well as different subject dish, with a bit of ragu underneath it! The whole concept various talents. From art house sculptors to top-name
treasury. The star item is a matter. The exhibition brings together the work of the Lower of layers of pasta and filling did not seem to have been bands, In Your Pocket is dedicated to bringing news
wedding crown for her set Silesian Union of Polish Photographers and includes artists taken on board, so the whole thing resembled a pub
with pearls, sapphires and garnets. Astonishingly, most like Arczy lński, Berdak, Nowak, Stawiński and many many of these events to as wide an audience as possible.
cheese-on-toast without the toast - in a dish. Oh, you
of the jewellery was discovered in a rubbish dump - what more. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Closed Sun. Admission free. should mention that the SAS Radisson rooms give free Besides the listings on these pages, we also regularly
some people throw away, honestly. Q Open 10:00 - internet connection, whereas at the Hilton just down the update our website with all the news and events as
16:00, Thu 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Closed road (where I had a good bar snack meal of a ham toastie they reach us, sometimes after our print guide has
Mon, Tue. Admission 15/10zł. Groups over 10 people served with chips) the internet has to be paid for. gone o press. For the latest event information make
5zł per person. Sat free. www.inyourpocket.com Best regards, Mike Whittaker www.inyourpocket.com the first place you visit.

Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com wroclaw.inyourpocket.com January - April 2009

24 WHERE TO STAY WHERE TO STAY 25

No matter what end of the price spectrum you’re looking Best Western offers top class conference facilities, fitness Qubus Hotel Wrocław B-3, ul. Św. Marii Magdaleny
at, in Wrocław you have nothing but choice. The market is studio and a quality onsite restaurant. A glass lift whisks Symbol key 2, tel. 071 797 98 00, fax 071 341 09 20, wroclaw@
positively flooded with hotel rooms (well over 3,000), with guests to smart rooms furnished with floral touches. Q79 qubushotel.com, www.qubushotel.com. One of our favou-
several new options opening each year. This means that rooms (78 singles 450 - 490zł, 66 doubles 510 - 530zł, 1 P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted rite hotels in the city and one that offers quality from top to
special promotions abound and the rack rate is not always apartment 700zł). PTJHARUFLGKDW C Swimming pool H Conference facilities bottom - literally. In the basement, an excellent swimming pool,
what you pay. Determining what it is you’re paying for is hhhh on the top floor a vast presidential suite featuring stripped wood
the hard part: the star system (assigned by the local tour- D Sauna U Facilities for the disabled floors, kitchen and lounge and a terrace overlooking the church
ist board) is pretty opaque and downright baffling in some Campanile A-1, ul. Jagiełły 7, tel. 071 326 78 00, fax R Internet L Guarded parking opposite. Nothing less than an excellent deal. Q83 rooms (80
cases. Do note that in local parlance, ‘apartment’ means 071 326 78 01, wroclaw@campanile.com.pl, www.cam- singles €146 - 162, 48 doubles €179, 3 apartments €207 -
‘suite’. In our listings, we’ve stuck to the internationally panile.com.pl. Great value. Rooms are large, smart and spa- F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms 326). PTJHARUFGKDCW hhhh
understood definitions: a suite has more than one room cious, and come decorated in the Campanile colours of green K Restaurant W Wi-Fi
and an apartment has kitchen facilities. All prices include and yellow. Accommodation is decorated with chequered Radisson SAS C-3, ul. Purkyniego 10, tel. 071 375 00
VAT (7%) and breakfast unless indicated. Hotels will list duvets and curtains, and creature comforts like satellite TV 00, fax 071 375 00 10, reservations.wroclaw@radis-
their prices in either euros, dollars or local currency. You’ll and air-con. Q110 rooms (109 singles 195 - 269zł, 109 sonsas.com, www.radissonsas.com. A class experience
be charged according to the exchange rate of the day and doubles 195 - 269zł, 1 apartment 320zł). Breakfast 30zł. HP Park Plaza B-1, ul. Drobnera 11-13, tel. 071 courtesy of the Raddison chain. Overlooking a quiet park
expected to pay in złoty. PTHAUGKW hh 320 84 00, fax 071 320 84 59, hpwroclaw@beph. rooms come with clean, light colours, heated bathroom
pl, www.parkplaza.pl. A huge glass and marble affair, floors and a telephone next to the toilet. Stay in the business
Upmarket NEW
Diament ul. Muchoborska 10 (Fabryczna), tel. 071
the HP Park Plaza sits on the banks of the Odra river and
proves an excellent conference venue. Well appointed
rooms and you’ll have newspapers delivered to your door and
dressing gown and slippers to pad around in. Facilities include
Art A-2, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 20, tel. 071 342 42 49, fax 735 03 50, fax 071 735 03 51, wroclaw@hoteldia- rooms feature wood panelling, plastic flowers and huge gym, fantastic restaurant and Sqwiggles Bar - where expert
071 342 39 29, info@arthotel.pl, www.arthotel.pl. ment.pl, www.hoteldiament.pl. One of the region‘s best windows to savour the riverside views. Q 177 rooms bartenders mix lethal cocktails for off-duty businessmen.
A plush boutique hotel found on one of Wrocław’s most accommodation chains has finally made it to Wrocław (156 singles 420zł, 156 doubles 470zł, 19 suites 650zł, Q162 rooms (157 singles 570zł, 157 doubles 630zł, 5
engaging streets. Modern rooms come with personally - good news for those who (like ourselves) have under- 2 apartments 1000zł). POTHARUFGKDW apartments 908 - 965zł). PTJHARUFGKDW
controlled air-conditioning, mini-bar and satellite TV, and standably grown to rely on Diament‘s good graces while on hhhh hhhhh
feature a chic upmarket aesthetic. Vaulted cellars dating the go about south-western PL. A more business-minded
from medieval times house the hotel restaurant. Q80 model, Wrocław‘s Diament has seven climate-controlled Mercure Panorama C-3, Pl. Dominikański 1, tel. Scandic Wrocław A-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 49/57, tel. 071
rooms (16 singles 270 - 490zł, 62 doubles 290 - 530zł, conference rooms with free wifi and movable walls, al- 071 323 27 00, fax 071 344 36 81, rez.mer.pan- 787 00 00, fax 071 787 00 01, wroclaw@scandichotels.
2 suites 390 - 610zł). PTJHARUFLGKW lowing creative company execs some interesting options orama@orbis.pl, www.orbisonline.pl. Large, colourful com, www.scandichotels.com. Immaculate rooms a short
hhhh for ‚team-building‘ exercises. Tidy, handsome rooms with rooms come equipped with bathtubs, while the apart- walk from the train station. All the hallmarks of the top-class
flat-screen satellite TV and wifi, and a strikingly modern ments feature floor to ceiling windows. Attached to the chain are in evidence, including heated bathroom floors,
Best Western Prima A-2, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 16-19, restaurant and lobby round out this revelatory effort ten corner of a shopping centre, Mercure is fiercely favoured sparkling rooms and extras like satellite TV and mini-bars.
tel. 071 782 55 55, fax 071 342 67 32, prima@ minutes from the Old Town and airport. Q132 rooms (127 by the business community. Top marks. Q 150 rooms Downstairs pretty receptionists greet guests, while the
bestwestern-prima.pl, www.bestwestern-prima.pl. A singles 209 - 299zł, 115 doubles 249 - 319zł, 3 suites (144 singles 215 - 680zł, 144 doubles 215 - 680zł, 6 business facilities are second to none. Q164 rooms (164
modern hotel occupying a quiet corner of the old town. 329 - 419zł, 2 apartments 429 - 499zł). PTHAR apar tments 735zł). Breakfast 55zł. PTJHAR singles €125 - 170, 164 doubles €125 - 170). PTHAR
Striking a neat balance between business and pleasure UFKW hhh UGKW hhh UFGKDW hhhh

Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com wroclaw.inyourpocket.com January - April 2009

26 WHERE TO STAY WHERE TO STAY 27

Sofitel Wrocław Old Town A-3, ul. Św. Mikołaja 67, Centrum Dikul A-2, ul. Cieszyńskiego 17/19, tel./fax Europejski Silfor Premium B-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 88,
tel. 071 358 83 00, fax 071 358 83 01, H5345@sofitel. 071 796 77 66, hotel@dikul.pl, www.dikul.pl. Occupy- tel. 071 772 10 00, fax 071 772 10 05, recepcja@
com, wroclaw.hotels.orbisonline.pl. Outstanding quality ing a fabulous and wonderfully restored Secession building silfor.pl, www.silfor.pl. You may remember this place as
inside a glass building. Ultra-modern fittings include Bang opposite the Archeology and Military museums, this comfort- the Europejski, a completely mediocre hotel with everything
& Olufsen sound systems, marble bathrooms, jacuzzis and able hotel offers not a little luxury and ample opportunities from carpets to curtains done up in a 1960s shade of
dressing gowns. Mike’s Bar and the Pan Tadeusz restaurant for pampering. Interiors are at odds with the façade: it’s all chocolate brown; a tasty colour for cake, rather revolting
are attached to an impressive atrium. Q205 rooms (190 contemporary moods, from the spacious common areas to used anywhere else. Fortunately signs of renovation have
singles 240 - 750zł, 173 doubles 240 - 750zł, 15 apart- the big doubles and generous single rooms: many a business- finally penetrated this station-side monolith, with decent
ments 460 - 970zł, 1 Senator Suite 2380zł). Breakfast 85zł. man will be happy to return here after a hectic day. For others enough rooms equipped with brand new fittings which
PTJHARUFGKDW hhhhh the attraction of the Dikul is the surprise it has up its sleeve: would not be out-of-place in any other identikit three star. A
this is one of Europe’s cutting edge spinal mobility centres. pleasant experience with a profusion of plants interspersed
Wrocław E-6, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 7, tel. 071 361 People from all over Europe travel here to follow the rigorous around the neutral colour schemes. Q98 rooms (82 singles
46 51, fax 071 361 66 17, wroclaw@orbis.pl, wroclaw. Dikul regime, which can speed up recovery from serious spinal 239 - 279zł, 82 doubles 289 - 319zł, 16 suites 329 - 359zł).
orbisonline.pl. A tall hotel with equally high standards. injuries, strokes and operations. We should also point out that PTHARUGKW hhh
Britain’s Prince Andrew stayed here a few years back, and every room - and we mean every room - is disabled traveler
no doubt enjoyed the charming service and hotel swimming friendly: a first for Poland worthy of note and commendation. Europeum A-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 27a, tel. 071
pool. Rooms come air-conditioning, mini-bar and pay TV with Note that not all rooms have air-conditioning.Q26 rooms 371 45 00, fax 071 371 44 01, europeum@europeum.
plenty of saucy channels to pick from. Q294 rooms (289 (26 singles 270 - 360zł, 7 doubles 360zł). PTHAR pl, www.europeum.pl. A super little find set behind a glass
singles 241 - 375zł, 289 doubles 273 - 407zł, 5 apartments UFGW hhh frontage just across the road from the old town. Modern
534 - 699zł). Breakfast 40zł. PTHARULG box-style rooms are accessed with swipey cards and come
KDCW hhhh Dwór Polski A-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 2, tel. 071 372 34 with climate control, Sky News on the TV, and windows that
15, fax 071 372 58 29, reception@dworpolski.wroclaw. have been fully sound-proofed - a thoughtful addition which
Mid-range pl, www.dworpolski.wroclaw.pl. A fabulous menagerie of
old-world sophistication, communist leftovers and touches
gives you maximum chance to recover from the indulgences
of the night before. Each also has a fridge, though its con-
Bugatti ul. Kosmonautów 328, (Fabryczna), tel. 071 of modernity, this 16th-century beast provides good rooms tents will depend on your willingness to stock it. A bargain
349 35 23, fax 071 349 14 26, hotel@hotelbugatti. throughout featuring satellite television, minibars and reno- for the money, with an all-smiling female cast to greet you at
pl, www.hotelbugatti.pl. A secluded villa on the city limits vated bathrooms. The apartment is a wonderful monster reception. Q20 rooms (20 singles 240 - 270zł, 16 doubles
is the home of this gem. While it’s distance might make it indeed, featuring lots of fancy trimmings and a private 275 - 295zł). PHARUGK hh
an odd choice, the furnishings provide plenty of traditional entrance for the discreet guest. Add-ons are minimal, but
character, and the staff are helpful. The golf course is nearby, there’s a feast of traditional bars and restaurants through- Gem I-2, ul. Baudouina de Courtenay 16, tel. 071 372 92
so expect to hear plenty of golfing anecdotes being ex- out the building representing every aspect of Polish food 13, fax 071 372 90 02, hotel@hotelgem.com.pl, www.
changed over the breakfast buffet. Q20 rooms (17 singles and drink. Q28 rooms (24 singles 212 - 265zł, 24 doubles hotelgem.com.pl. Set a fair distance from the centre (you’ll
195 - 330zł, 17 doubles 249 - 390zł, 3 triples 360 - 390zł). 260 - 325zł, 4 apartments 336 - 470zł). TJHAL need a car or taxi) this modern German-funded hotel may have
PTHARGKW hhh GDW hhhh a gem of a swimming pool and sports facilities, but they are
only accessible to guests in the evening when the schoolkids
have cleared out. The rooms are reasonable, but rather bare. '$!¨3+

Note that not all rooms have air-conditioning.Q55 rooms
(52 singles 170 - 240zł, 52 doubles 195 - 280zł, 7 triples
240 - 340zł, 3 apartments 300 - 390zł). PTHARU
FLGKDCW hhh '/2:ª77,+0

:)%,/.!'ª2!

Hotel Bacero ul. Ołtaszyńska 107 (Krzyki), tel. 071 '{/'ª7

,%'.)#!
{ª$j

793 26 45, fax 071 339 75 50, hotelbacero@hotelba-

72/#{!7
:{/4/29*!

cero.com.pl, www.hotelbacero.com.pl. A strange but not 7!{"2:9#(

',)7)#%
+)%,#%

unattractive low-rise which is a long, long way from the centre +!4/7)#%
+2!+ª7
of the city, but if you can get over that rather large hump, then
you are looking at a bargain here. After all, for your money you
get a good room - much larger than average - new furnish-
ings, bright colour schemes and bathrooms which positively
sparkle. Its conference facilities make it a popular choice with
the business fraternity. Q64 rooms (64 singles 200 - 275zł,
64 doubles 230 - 300zł). PHAUGKW h

Hotel Jana Pawła II C-2, ul. Św. Idziego 2, tel. 071 SAVE&STAY RESERVATION
327 14 00, fax 071 327 14 70, hotel@hotel-jp2.pl,
www.hotel-jp2.pl. Very decent lodgings that go far beyond GUARANTEES YOUR SMILE.
the standards the price tags would suggest; let the guest
book speak for itself. Past lodgers include best-selling writer CHECK OUR WEBSITE TO FIND
and historian Norman Davies, as well as Poland’s recently THE BEST PRICES!
deposed rulers, the Kaczyński twins. The exterior is a great
mix of old and new, the glass entrance on the corner blend-
ing in seamlessly with the townhouse style. It’s a strategy
that has been extended to the interiors, with serious looking
oil paintings and classic furnishings fitted alongside all the
creature comforts of the modern century. If the weather
is getting a bit naughty then views of Ostrów Tumski allow
you to do all your holiday snaps from the warmth of your
room. Q81 rooms (76 singles 200 - 270zł, 60 doubles WWWQUBUSHOTELCOM
310 - 340zł, 4 suites 350 - 800zł, 1 apartment 520 - 580zł).
PTHARUGKW hhhh

Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com wroclaw.inyourpocket.com January - April 2009

28 WHERE TO STAY WHERE TO STAY 29

Hotel System PREMIUM H-1, Al. Kromera 16, tel. 071 Orbita ul. Wejherowska 34, (Fabryczna-Popowice), tel.
364 97 00, fax 071 364 97 01, premium.wro@hotelsys- 071 350 10 26, fax 071 356 35 20, recepcja@orbita.
tem.pl, www.hotelsystem.pl. Clean cream colours lend a pl, www.orbita.pl. A vaguely futuristic building with swirly
sharp modern look to the System and all rooms come equipped patterns on the floor and neat cream-coloured rooms. The
with their own PC and flatscreen TV. This is a real favourite with accommodation is compact, verging on tiny, with a double bed
the corporate crowd though the cosmopolitan bar and wellness amounting to no more than two single beds pushed together.
centre - complete with swimming pool - mean there’s plenty Right next door to Polkowice aquapark. Q25 rooms (22
to occupy yourself with in those post-conference moments. singles 160 - 190zł, 22 doubles 190 - 220zł, 3 apartments
Q107 rooms (100 singles 229zł, 90 doubles 229zł, 7 apart- 220 - 260zł). PHARFGKDW hhh
ments 329zł). PHARUFLGKDCW hhh
Patio A-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 24-25, tel. 071 375 04 00,
Jasek ul. Sułowska 39, (Psie Pole-Widawa), tel. 071 fax 071 343 91 49, patio@hotelpatio.pl, www.hotel-
346 27 12, fax 071 346 22 11, hotel@hoteljasek. patio.pl. One of the city’s better accommodation options,
com.pl, www.hoteljasek.com.pl. A new hotel offering the Patio is a sumptuous place in a top location: minutes
completely acceptable generic standards aimed at those from Rynek. Centred around a striking yet elegant atrium
passing through. In the outskirts, so if you don’t have your the individually furnished rooms here have been recently
own transport expect to be forking out taxi fares left, right and refurbished and offer maximum comfort, from high-sepped
centre. Rooms come with shimmery bedspreads, pot plants internet to state of the art televisions and luxuriously
and satellite TV, and the hotel also features a 24hr restaurant decorated bathrooms. Best of all we like the deep carpets
should hunger strike. Q36 rooms (34 singles 150 - 170zł, and comfy arcmchairs. If we had one complaint it would be
34 doubles 220 - 240zł, 10 triples 290 - 320zł, 2 apartments that the rooms are not all that big, but given the gebneral
320zł). THARULKW hhh high standards of service, decor and comfort we won’t
mention that. Note that not all rooms have air-conditioning.
Lothus B-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 22/23, tel./fax 071 341 Q50 rooms (21 singles 250 - 395zł, 32 doubles 270 -
97 38, rezerwacja@hotel.lothus.pl, www.hotel.lothus.pl. 415zł, 6 triples 390 - 495zł, 8 apartments 350 - 560zł).
Previous visitors to Wrocław may remember what once stood PTJHARUGKW hhh
here; the shabby Saigon hotel complete with a hairdresser
staffed by women who would do more than just cut hair. The Polonia A-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 66, tel. 071 343 10 21,
decorators have been in and things have improved, but not fax 071 344 73 10, recepcja@poloniawroclaw.pl, www.
much. Enter through a pagoda-style entrance to find a lobby poloniawroclaw.pl. The Polonia hardly looks as plush at
with a gurgling fountain and dragons looking on. A knackered once was (and still does as the star of a million 1930s
looking lift then creaks its way to bland rooms featuring postcards), but once past the perfunctory reception this
lumpy beds, coffee stained floors and the occasional flooded is a decent hotel that offers big - if a little plain - rooms for
bathroom. Ask for a room looking away from the construction a more than fair price. Bathrooms are clean and realtively
site if you don’t want to be woken by power drills and Polish modern, though almost all have showers and not baths.
brickies shouting obscenities. Q62 rooms (22 singles 190 For a cheap sleep around the station this is a good op-
- 230zł, 36 doubles 225 - 280zł, 3 apartments 280 - 350zł). tion. Q145 rooms (46 singles 139 - 229zł, 89 doubles
HAUGKW hh 189 - 249zł, 9 triples 249 - 279zł, 10 quads 289 - 319zł).
THARGK hhh
Motel Rezydent I-3, Al. Kochanowskiego 32a, tel./fax
071 348 32 13, motel_villa@op.pl. Pink rooms, jacuzzis Rezydent I-3, Al. Różyckiego 7, tel. 071 348 42 48, fax
and a collection of men in leather jackets in the lobby; we’re 071 348 34 05, rezydent@rezydent.pl, www.rezydent.
not talking about our favourite brothel, but the rather surreal pl. Short of being haunted by Barry White you couldn’t wish
Motel Rezydent. Unfortunately it’s out of the centre, and the for a more romantic experience. A pink façade and wooded
staff are openly hostile. Q27 rooms (4 singles 120zł, 21 location are topped with individually designed rooms, a wacky
doubles 160 - 220zł, 2 triples 210zł). ARKW garden and decent restaurant. Splash out on a suite and you Exclusive Apartments is a firm offering exclusive
and your honey bunny can enjoy champagne and snails while
Novotel ul. Wyścigowa 35, (Krzyki), tel. 071 339 80 giggling in a jacuzzi.Q23 rooms (23 singles 160 - 280zł, 14 accommodation in Wroclaw.
51, fax 071 339 80 75, rez.nov.wroclaw@orbis.pl, www. doubles 200 - 360zł). ARULKW We rent luxurious apartments for both short
orbisonline.pl. A squat sixties building surrounded with and long term stays. The excellent location of
flagpoles and conifers hides good value accommodation on Start Hotel Jester ul. Kowalska 63, (Psie Pole-
the outskirts of town. The Novotel standard as replicated Kowale), tel. 071 345 86 00, fax 071 345 86 41, info@ those apartments allows you to quickly reach the
across the world is strictly followed, so expect multi-lingual hotel-jester.com, www.starthotel.pl. A low-rise modern cultural, business and restaurant heart of the city.
staff, comfortable rooms and plenty of business travellers and villa offering prim, spotless rooms painted in pastel shades.
tourist groups. Guests have access to the outdoor swimming Accommodation comes with internet connection and
pool and tennis facilities half a kilometre away. Q145 rooms satellite TV, as well as ensuite bathrooms. Five kilometers
(145 singles 150 - 280zł, 145 doubles 150 - 280zł). Breakfast from the centre. Q25 rooms (24 singles 180 - 230zł, 10
39zł. Tax 7%. THARULGKCW hhh doubles 230 - 250zł, 14 triples 280zł, 1 apartment 350zł).
HARGKW hhh
Olimpia Al. Paderewskiego 35 (Śródmieście), tel./fax
071 372 83 32, hotel@hotelolimpia.pl, www.hotelolim- Tumski C-2, Wyspa Słodowa 10, tel. 071 322 60 88,
pia.com.pl. You’re going to have to pick your way through a fax 071 322 61 13, hotel@hotel-tumski.com.pl, www.
physical education academy before you reach the lobby of hotel-tumski.com.pl. While nothing to rhapsodise about,
this end-of-the-world hotel. But with chocolates on the pillow Tumski offers pleasant rooms staring across the Oder and
and complimentary bathrobes, the welcome is first class, and new fixtures and fittings. The chief conference room, ‘The Office: Jagielly St. 3/79 (4’th floor)
the receptionists are so forthcoming it’s tempting to put them Black Hall’, on the other hand deviates from all norms; raise tel. 0048 515 138 177, fax: 0048 71 750 32 61
across your knee. Interiors are strictly straight-forward and your eyebrows at beamed ceilings, faux chandeliers and par-
standard. Q20 rooms (2 singles 179 - 199zł, 12 doubles quet floors. Q57 rooms (53 singles 230 - 280zł, 39 doubles mail: office@ea.wroclaw.pl
229 - 289zł, 2 triples 289 - 309zł, 6 apartments 309 - 389zł). 340 - 450zł, 3 triples 360 - 420zł, 1 apartment 460 - 530zł). www.ea.wroclaw.pl
THALKW hhh TJHARUGKW hhh

Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com wroclaw.inyourpocket.com January - April 2009

30 WHERE TO STAY WHERE TO STAY 31

you can afford another holiday. The out-of-town location infers

Hansel & Gretel you‘ve a car at your disposal and if you‘ve issue with this perfectly
satisfactory overnight offer, feel free to sleep in it. Q109 rooms
Wrocław’s not short (109 singles 129 - 169zł, 109 doubles 129 - 169zł, 2 triples
on photo opportu- 129 - 169zł). Breakfast 20zł. PTAUW
nities and one par-
ticular favourite is Dom Turystyczny ‘TRIO’ ul. Trzemeska 4/6/8, (Fabryc-
the two skinny build- zna), tel./fax 071 355 94 46, trzemeska@puhot.pl, www.
ings that connect puhot.pl. It’s got the three C’s: cheap, clean and close to the
ul. Św Mikołaja with centre. Furniture is vaguely modern, conference and office facili-
ul. Odrzańska. This ties are available, and all rooms are neat and vaguely modern.
pair o f stor yb ook Certainly a better option to Wrocław’s plague of toxic budget
tenements are com- choices. Q218 rooms (10 singles 65zł, 214 doubles 76 - 87zł,
monly known as Han- 1 triple 96zł, 3 quads 120zł). No breakfast served. G
sel and Gretel (Jaś i
Małgosia), apparent- Podkowa ul. Wojszycka 8, (Krzyki), tel. 071 339 83 60,
ly because the con- recepcja@hotelpodkowa.pl, www.hotelpodkowa.pl. It’s
necting archway is unlikely you’ll be spending much time down here in the Krzyki
symbolic of a couple residential area. But if you don’t mind the 15-minute tram ride
holding hands. Built into town, this is a friendly, comfortable alternative. And while
in the 16th and 18th century respectively they are all that you’re here, take advantage of the wooded paths in nearby
remain of the line of townhouses that once circled the Park Południowy. Remember, if you want a double bed you’ll
cemetery of St. Elizabeth’s, and the archway is inscribed have to spring for a suite. To get here take tram N°3 or 9 from
with a Latin motto proclaiming ‘Death is the gate to life’. the train station to the last stop. Q17 rooms (14 singles
The bas-relief we picture (photographed by Sco) can be 150 - 180zł, 11 doubles 162 - 200zł, 1 triple 185 - 225zł, 3
spotted on the Jaś building, the smaller, less decorative apartments 186 - 272zł). AKW h
of the two. Designed by Eugeniusz Get- Stankiewicz the
work is a self-portrait and rather sensibly titled “Head in Podróżnik B-6, ul. Sucha 1/11, tel./fax 071 373 28
laurel wreath”. The artist himself is a bit of a local legend 45, styrna.pilch@neostrada.pl, www.podroznik.emeteor.
and commonly regarded as one of the key movers in pl. Not the flea-ridden halfway-house you’d expect from a
1960s Polish counter-culture. Since 1995 the house bus-station hotel, Podróżnik touts private showers and clean
has also doubled as his studio, which he rents from the rooms. Though far from honeymoon standard the prices offer
city for a token one groszy coin per month. unbeatable value for the more scrooge-like traveller. You’ll be
expected to communicate in Polish. Q17 rooms (11 singles
98 - 146zł, 9 doubles 146zł, 3 triples 186zł, 1 quad 228zł, 1 the Opium apartment, decked out with ultra-stylish fittings gratis, and facilities include high-speed internet, DVD and
apartment 176zł, 1 Six-person room 285zł). JH and cream and caramel colours. If there’s six of you then fully fitted kitchen. Q15 rooms (2 singles 100zł, 10 doubles
Wodnik H-5, ul. Na Grobli 28, tel. 071 343 36 67, fax don’t look beyond the Mizurii, a chic three room affair with a 120zł, 1 triple 135zł). No breakfast served. 123 dorm beds
071 342 93 44, wodnik@wodnik-hotel.pl, www.wodnik- Savoy A-5, Pl. Kościuszki 19, tel. 071 340 32 19, fax corner tub, 32 inch flatscreen TV and underground parking. 45zł per person. AGW
hotel.pl. Wodnik just oozes rustic charm: from the dark 071 372 53 79, savoy@savoy.wroc.pl, www.savoy.wroc. And at these prices, it’s an absolute giveaway. Note that not
woodwork and subtle maritime theme to the babbling brook pl. Presumably named after the cabbage dish, not the more all apartments have air-conditioning. Q19 rooms (19 apart- NEW
painted on the walls. It’s quite a contrast with the rather indus- famous hotel, this reasonably central battered communist legacy ments 250 - 400zł). No breakfast served. PGW Babel B-5, ul. Kołłątaja 16/3, tel. 071 344 12 06, fax 071
trial surroundings (that’s Wrocław’s water purification works is a grim and cheerful establishment offering little in the way of 342 02 50, rezerwacja@babelhostel.pl, www.babelhos-
across the road, if you’re wondering). All in all, the hotel meets comfort or spoken English. The rooms haven’t seen much in the Leoapart B-2, ul. WIęzienna 21/36, tel. 071 330 71 21, tel.pl. With the sad demise of The Stranger Hostel in Kraków,
a pretty high standard for its price class. Public transport? way of renovation and the facilities are non-existent, but for the fax 071 337 02 17, booking@leoapart.com, www.apart- we were concerned a similar fate might be in store for its sister
Not out here. Lace up your hiking shoes. Wodnik, by the way, price there’s not much to complain about really. Q27 rooms (6 mentswroclaw.pl. A great alternative to a hotel is your own sleeping hole in Wrocław. And indeed it was; however, while the
is Polish for the zodiak sign Aquarius. Q17 rooms (8 singles singles 120 - 200zł, 16 doubles 150 - 170zł, 4 triples 180 - 210zł, apartment in the city which will give you a chance to see how the Kraków hostel was replaced by an abominable parking garage,
195 - 215zł, 3 doubles 250 - 270zł, 3 triples 355 - 380zł, 4 1 apartment 180 - 220zł). Breakfast 12zł. A locals live (if they have the money to renovate). Note that not the folks that now run Babel have taken up the cape and cowl
apartments 395 - 415zł). HARUKDW hhh all rooms have air-conditioning.Q35 rooms (35 apartments in Wrocław, preserving the atmosphere and facilities of what
U Szermierzy C-4, ul. Krasińskiego 30b, tel./fax 071 343 200 - 450zł). Breakfest 15-20zł. PTARLKW was once one of the city’s better hostels. A great location
Zaułek A-2, ul. Garbary 11, tel. 071 341 00 46, fax 071 49 89, wks.kolejarz@neostrada.pl. You may be tempted incredibly close to the train station, internet PCs and wifi, free
375 29 47, recepcja@hotelzaulek.pl, www.hotelzaulek. to turn around and plunk down your credit card some place Vincent A-3, ul. Ruska 39, tel. 071 341 05 20, fax 071 linen, a fully-equipped kitchen and multi-lingual staff continue to
pl. A good choice in the heart of the old town, this university- swankier when you first see U Szermierzy’s courtyard. But don’t: 341 74 75, vincent@vincent.wroclaw.pl, www.aparta- make this location an ideal place to crash-land upon arriving in
owned hotel offers clean bargain rooms with satellite television what could be safer than staying in a hotel staffed by fencers? menty.vincent.wroclaw.pl. Gorgeous apartments filled with Wrocław.Q5 rooms (1 double 120zł). 24 dorm beds 40-60zł
and little else. Slowly dragging itself out of the communist era, (We mean the kind with swords, not stolen goods.) The furniture floral patterns and timber beams; squint hard enough and per person. No breakfast served. ARLGW
all of the singles now come with renovated bathrooms and and fixtures have seen better days, but where else could you you’d think you were in Provence. Not cheap, but well worth
the building has, somewhat surprisingly, WiFi throughout. A get your own shower for just 15 zl extra? Ring the bell to enter. the outlay. Q5 rooms (5 apartments 250 - 420zł). Breakfast Boogie E-4, ul. Ruska 35, tel./fax 071 342 44 72, hos-
homely feel is rounded off with a pleasant and exceedingly frilly Q10 rooms (3 singles 65 - 80zł, 4 doubles 80zł, 2 triples 12zł. THARGKW tel@boogiehostel.pl, www.boogiehostel.pl. One more hos-
restaurant. Q12 rooms (12 singles 230 - 280zł, 6 doubles 90 - 100zł, 1 quad 100zł). No breakfast served. R tel to add to Wrocław’s ever growing list, and it’s not bad at all.
290 - 330zł). TJAGKW hhh
Hostels Features of note include a great spiral staircase inside a brick
Serviced Apartments Avantgarde B-5, ul. Kościuszki 55, tel./fax 071 341
tower, lots of timber frames and a common room every bit as
Budget Exclusive Apartments A-1, ul. Jagiełły 3/79, tel. 0 07 38, biuro@avantgardehostel.pl, www.avantgarde-
sexy as a pink pussycat; think low banquettes, purple colours
and weird wallpaper. Facilities number a fully stocked kitchen,
NEW 515 13 81 77, fax 071 750 32 61, booking@ea.wroclaw. hostel.pl. A superbly modern hostel and ample proof how bullet fast internet, DVDs and bike rental, while accommodation
Etap ul. Wyścigowa 35a (Krzyki), tel. 071 360 89 91, fax pl, www.ea.wroclaw.pl. As the name suggests, Exclusive far Wrocław has come in the space of a few years. Dorms comes split between private rooms and dorms decked out with
071 311 92 83, H6603@accor.com, www.orbis.pl. This are here to provide designer living to the itinerant traveller. come fitted with steel frame bunks, while a limit of six to a single beds - so no chance of the bloke in the upstairs bunk
bland-for-your-buck budget option will do well to remind you that, Guests have a number of apartments to book into, ranging room ensure minimal risk of having your rest interrupted by stepping on your head. Quite an experience, and those with an
in the end, a hotel is a hotel. Here‘s a roof o‘er your head and a in size from 32 to 80 square metres. There’s a number of drunken oafs snoring away or randy couples giving the bed aversion to spiral stairs can look forward to a lift being unveiled
comfortable bed. You won‘t need to fumigate your room or hold- locations to pick from, including a couple within the old town springs a work out. Metallic grey and tangerine colours prevail in the foreseeable future. Q16 rooms (4 singles 100zł, 4
your-breath in the bathroom, and you may even find something limits, each one coming with kitchen facilities, wifi, ironing throughout, adding a sharp aesthetic, while every detail and doubles 130zł, 3 triples 150 - 165zł, 3 quads 180 - 200zł). 23
worth watching on the satellite TV. And with the money you‘ll save boards and cable TV. For something utterly sexy check out fitting shines and sparkles. Bed linen and towels are supplied dorm beds 35-50zł per person. AGKW

Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com wroclaw.inyourpocket.com January - April 2009

32 WHERE TO STAY WHERE TO STAY 33

Mleczarnia E-4, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel./fax 071 787 75

70, rezerwacja@mleczarniahostel.pl, www.mleczarniahos-
tel.pl. Find one of Wrocław’s best bars occupying the ground
floor, and a medley of rooms upstairs that come with rugs,
lampshades, rocking chairs and other detritus picked up from
the flea markets of Wrocław. In fact, such is the profusion of net
curtains and fresh flowers you half expect your own grandmother
to come creaking round the corner with a bowl of mashed carrots.
If you are feeling a bit flush ask about taking the apartment: in ->HBVLROPBIC
a separate building on ul. Ruska: it is the best located cheap
GUEST ROOMS, MILKY APARTMENT, HOSTEL sleep in Wroclaw. Q5 rooms (4 doubles 220zł, 4 triples 253zł, >QELJB
1 quad 286zł, 1 apartment 275 - 330zł). 34 dorm beds 40-55zł
per person. Breakfast 6-17zł. HARGKW &OFBKAIV>CCLOA>?IB
!ӿȸ=‡¿ÜºÈ‡ÂÈ=È|¿h=ÊÈ=ŽÊh¿—=ʇÙhÈʛȒ›¿hÈhÛªh—‡ÙhÈÈ >@@LJJLA>QFLKFKQEBEB>OQ
Nathan’s Villa A-3, ul. Świdnicka 13, tel./fax 071 344 10
„›ÊhŽÂÈ=—_ÈU„h=ªÈª=¿Ê܆„›ÂÊhŽÂ 95, wroclaw@nathansvilla.com, www.nathansvilla.com.
LC7OL@I>TGRPQQTLJFK
T>IHCOLJQEBLIAJ>OHBQ
This brand new venture steals the crown of Poland’s best hostel. PNR>OB'R>O>KQBBAQL>AA

6hÈ=¿hÈÚ=‡Ê‡—|Èu›¿È8›Ó¯¯¯ Set over a number of floors dorm rooms come with solid pine
frame beds, and the presence of over 20 bathrooms means
PMF@BQLVLROSFPFQ
PMF

minimal chance of early morning queues or grubby surprises Ì㥗ÂØñàäàÜéñؗ

festering inside the toilet. Those who don’t care for shared living ÎàÜãâàÜÞ旭®
have a number of private rooms to pick from, each equipped with ¬§¤§®®—ÎéæÚãØî
ensuite bathrooms and flatscreen TV units. Find a fully stocked ëÜ㱗§—®¨—ª««—¬¯—¬¯
kitchen on the top floor, with a great common room hidden away îéæÚãØî·ÚàååØäæåßæêëÜã¥Úæä
in a fully converted loft space. Laundry, net access and central ììì£ØÞããÖâäãÝäèéÚá£Øäâ
location complete the experience. Note that not all rooms have air-
conditioning.Q10 rooms (10 singles 150 - 190zł, 10 doubles 150 Ċ—ÝéÜܗàåëÜéåÜ뗟îàă 
- 190zł). 76 dorm beds 45-60zł per person. PJAUGW Ċ—ÝéÜܗãæÚâÜéê
ul. P. Włodkowica 5, 50 – 072 Wrocław, tel./fax +48 71 787 75 70, www.mleczarniahostel.pl Ċ—ÝéÜܗÚàëð—àåÝæ
e-mail: rezerwacja@mleczarniahostel.pl Na wyspie C-2, Wyspa Słodowa 10, tel. 071 322 11 50, Ċ—ÝéÜܗãØìåÛéð
fax 071 322 61 13, hotel@hotel-tumski.com.pl, www. Ċ—©«—ßæìé—éÜÚÜçëàæå
hotel-tumski.com.pl. Brilliantly located on one of the islands Ċ—ÙàâܗßàéÜ
The Dair y, Die Molkerei, La Latteria, Le Lecheria, La Laitearie. in the middle of Wrocław, this hostel is just a bit too boarding ØåۗäìÚߗäæéÜ
schoolish for us. Actually, scrap that: boarding schools at least
have a modicum of space between the rows of bunk beds.
Centrum A-3, ul. Św. Mikołaja 16/17, tel./fax 071 comes with fluffy duvets and parquet floors. A flatscreen This place does not. Though impeccably clean (seriously, the
793 08 70, hostelcentrum@o2.pl, www.centrumhostel. PC in the common room caters to any internet needs while floors shine and the bathrooms look like IKEA showrooms)
pl. Hostels appear to be opening by the minute in Wrocław, kitchens and bathrooms alike still feature a crisp unbroken and staffed by uniformed nymphettes, we just found this place
and here’s one of the latest. What you’ll find in Centrum are look. Q10 rooms (2 doubles 135zł). 46 dorm beds 45-60zł a bit too regulated. Still, as you can only reserve a bed if you
a central setting, modern hardwood floors, a top kitchen per person. AGW are a member of Hostelling International, you will probably be
and rooms decorated with pale colours and startlingly bright used to that. Q7 rooms (1 double 130 - 140zł). 36 dorm
bedspreads - bring your shades. Large windows allow plenty Europa E-5, ul. Grabiszyńska 61-65, tel. 071 343 70 24, beds 35-70zł per person. Breakfest 25zł. THAGKW
of light to spill in, while a spacious layout means backpackers fax 071 342 46 75, rezerwacja@hosteleuropa.pl, www.
won’t feel like Vietnamese boat people. The private rooms are hosteleuropa.pl. A bit of a trek from the city centre this place Piast B-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 98, tel. 071 343 00 33, fax
an absolute steal, and highly recommended. Q13 rooms (11 offers cheap and just about cheerful accommodation to a vari- 071 343 78 93, recepcja@dwpiast.pl, www.dwpiast.pl.
singles 120zł, 11 doubles 120zł, 1 apartment 200 - 350zł). 60 ety of budget conscious travelers. The rooms and dorms are Once a hotel now more a hostel, this is a less than welcoming
dorm beds 55zł per person. No breakfast served. GW reached via rather dark and unwelcoming hallways, and though place whose entrance is hidden between two shops, though 7dd\^Z =dhiZa ^h h^ijViZY ^c i]Z ZmVXi XZcigZ
simply furnished the private rooms at least are relatively quiet, marked by a huge advertising hoarding overhead. The place d[LgdXVl!dcan*b^cjiZhdc[ddi[gdbi]Z
Cinema A-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 15, tel./fax 071 795 and have free wifi to remind you that you are in the 21st century. always looks closed, though isn’t, but note that once you are
77 55, hostelcinema@gmail.com, www.hostelcinema.pl. Bathrooms (both the private and shared) are a long way from brave enouh to cross the threshold it is far better than you X^inXZcigZ!^cVWZVji^[ja&-"XZcijgniZcZbZci
For what you are paying, you’re getting a lot here. A reasonably luxurious, but are kept spotlessly clean and hot water is never expect. Accommodation is cheap, bright and clean if unfussy ]djhZ# 8db[dgiVWaZ gddbh! L^";^! [gZZ Xd[[Z
central location, friendly 24 hour reception staff, a comfy bed an issue regardless the time of night or day. A friendly bunch, - expect no luxuries - and for a cheap sleep right opposite the VcYiZV#7gZV`[Vhi^cXajYZY^ceg^XZ#
(even the bunks in the bigger dorms - in fact, the bunks might the staff are on call 24 hours a day and will go out of their way station there is nowhere better. Q63 rooms (10 singles 99zł,
be the comfiest of all) and bathrooms to grace hotels far further to help in any number of languages, and consensus among the 28 doubles 119zł, 7 triples 139zł, 7 quads 159zł, 3 Five-person
up the food chain. The best rooms are the private doubles on seasoned backpackers we spoke to was ‘I’ve stayed in much rooms 189zł, 7 Six-person rooms 189zł, 1 Eight-person room 9Vh 7dd\^Z =dhiZa WZÀcYZi h^X] ^b =ZgoZc
the ground floor. There are plenty of added extras, such as free worse.’ Q11 rooms (3 singles 60 - 100zł, 6 doubles 120zł, 5 259zł). Breakfast 14-25zł. TJHAGW kdc7gZhaVj!cjg(<Z]b^cjiZckdb7gZhaVjZg
wifi throughout, free tea and coffee, safety deposit boxes and triples 150zł, 3 quads 180zł, 1 apartment 160zł). 16 dorm beds =VjeibVg`i#9Vh=dhiZaWZÀcYZih^X]^cZ^cZb
a laundry service (just about the only extra you have to pay 37-40zł per person. No breakfast served. TRGW Silesius E-5, ul. Stysia 16a, tel. 071 338 07 93, fax 071
for). Children under three stay for nothing. That’s good news for 338 07 93 ext. 102, wroclaw@silesius.org.pl, www.sile- hX]ŽcZcB^Zi]VjhVjh&-#?]#9Vh;gjh]ijX`
groups of backpacking two year olds. Q19 rooms (6 singles Hi Way H-4, ul. Curie-Skłodowskiej 9/4, tel. 0 513 01 11 siushostel.pl. This hostel is quite literally on the wrong side of ^begZ^h#L^";^!IZZjcY@V[[Z`dhiZcadh#
120zł, 6 doubles 120zł, 4 triples 165zł, 3 quads 220zł). 24 dorm 69, stay@hiwayhostel.pl, www.hiwayhostel.pl. So called the tracks: to get there you have to leave the train station via the
beds 55zł per person. No breakfast served. TGW because it is a hell of a hi-way from the centre of Wrocław. rear exit - never a good sign. Be warned, it is a long, long walk
There are four and eight bed dorms, all have lockers (a nice from the city centre. That said, the hostel is in a decent area with 7dd\^Z=dhiZa
Cinnamon B-4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 67, tel. 071 touch), comfy sofas and decent bathrooms (except that the plenty of greenery, including its own super garden (usually full Ja#Gjh`V(*
344 58 58, wroclaw@cinnamonhostel.com, www. door of one shower appeared to be falling off). It is a totally of chain-smoking students). Rooms have their own bathrooms *%"%,.LgdXVl
cinnamonhostel.com. Formerly a barren desert for the non-smoking hostel, they do not accept pets and will offer you and there is a decent canteen serving food round the clock: pick iZa#%,&()')),'
backpacker Wrocław now has three quality hostels to call its a glass of questionable home made wine when you check in. up an omelette and sit yourself alongside an attractive stranger [Vm#%,&()')),'
]dhiZa5Wdd\^Z]dhiZa#ea
own. Cinnamon features pleasant dorms fitted with two to Stay here by all means - it has much to recommend it - but at one of the long tables. Q17 rooms (2 doubles 80 - 110zł, 7
lll#Wdd\^Z]dhiZa#ea
eight beds, each with names like Curry, Lavender and Chilli. be prepared to shell out on taxis or do a lot of walking. Q triples 105 - 135zł, 8 quads 120 - 160zł). 57 dorm beds 30-55zł
Colour coordinated accordingly the colourful accommodation 12 dorm beds 40-50zł per person. RGW per person. Breakfast not included. HGW

Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com wroclaw.inyourpocket.com January - April 2009

34 RESTAURANTS
Wrocław’s respectable number of international restau-
rants reflects its status as a thriving urban centre. Things Symbol key
are ever on the up with an improving number of ethic
options now available. Like bars and pubs, most stay open P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
as long as customers are still lingering. We list the latest E Live music S Take away
time you can expect the chef to still be working.
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
American G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking
Rodeo Drive B-3, Rynek 27/28, tel. 071 343 96 09, R Internet W Wi-Fi
www.rodeodrive.pl. Styled like a Dodge City saloon bar I Fire place
the multi-level Rodeo Drive comes decorated with all the
gear you’d ever need to pursue a career as a redneck.
The menu here features all the requisite burgers and ribs,
though the real reason for visiting are the steaks. The French
filet mignon is spot on every time, and perfectly paired NEW
with spicy bacon beans and loaded jacket potatoes. Word Iguana B-2, ul. Nożownicza 12/14, tel. 0 662 91 15
of warning, keep an eye on the bill - maybe it’s bad luck, 80. Iguana serves a range of savoury crepes (28 in all)
maybe they hate me, either way the final count is never stuffed with assorted fittings and French cheeses, as well as
right.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (20- sweet choices, salads and cakes. Though the food doesn’t
70zł). PTAXSW especially distinguish itself, the atmosphere of this cozy little
hole-in-the-wall is surprisingly pleasant (despite an enormous
Sioux E-4, ul. Legnicka 58 (Magnolia Park), tel. 3D lizard looming over an entire wall) and would be well-suited
071 338 51 15, w w w.sioux.com.pl. Zip to th e for an intimate drink with a friend. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri,
second floor of the Magnolia Park mall to dine inside Sat 11:00 - 22:30, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. (4-20zł). PG
a sh a d o w y in teri or pun c tua te d wi t h to tem p ol e s
and other misappropriated Wild West malarkey. The Le Bistrot Parisien A-2, ul. Nożownicza 1d, tel. 071
menu is a collection of cowboy munches like ribs and 343 76 98. Clouds of smoke billow around a scruffy interior
wings th ough rarel y goes b eyond th e standard one festooned with clippings from Le Monde, watering cans and
expects from a mall. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. (18-55zł). dog eared books, while the menu features a range of superb
PTAUEGS pancakes as well as more substantial dishes. Café, bar or
restaurant, this venue is whatever you wish it to be, and ever
TGI Friday’s E-4, ul. Legnicka 58 (Magnolia Park), popular with French expats waving their arms around. QOpen
tel. 071 338 50 94, www.fridays.com.pl. What could 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (15-36zł). JAS
well be the smallest Friday’s in the world takes its Wroclaw
bow at the Magnolia Park shopping mall. Filled with Yank Splendido A-5, ul. Świdnicka 53, tel. 071 344 77 77,
absurdities this is the Friday’s experience as replicated www.splendido.pl. An old timer that’s been impressing us
across the world, though so far it’s something of a hit- ever since we first bowled into town nearly a decade back.
and-miss experience. The burgers are sub-par, while the Cutting edge it isn’t, but if you’re after top notch Mediter-
monster mudslide is sickly sweet, leaving you in no doubt ranean eats then you can’t go far wrong. Only a Bolivian
how you’ll be feeling when the morning alarm goes off. drug lord would enjoy the excessive interiors, but there’s no
Points go to the filet mignon, which doesn’t disappoint, faulting choices like the lamb haunch or Dover sole. QOpen
while the staff look great kitted out in bells, whistles and 13:00 - 23:00. (43-75zł). PTAIES
dunce caps.QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 -
23:00. (20-75zł). PTAUGS
Fusion
Abrams’ Tower C-3, ul. Kraińskiego 14, tel. 071 725 66
Armenian 52, www.abramstower.pl. Formerly known as La Luz, this spot
Armine A-5, ul. Bogusławskiego 83, tel. 071 367 15 has seen a major kitchen overhaul, a menu reshuffle, a change
31, www.armine.com.pl. Vaguely seedy, thanks in part to of name and a fair bit of tinkering with the interior. If you liked this
the peep shows that flank it. The Assatarian family seem to place before you’re going to just love it now. Occupying three levels,
know everyone who comes through the door at Armine, and the collection of candles, cushions and artwork generate a cool,
this place appears to double as a card school and drinking ethereal ambiance throughout the year, while the menu includes
den for men in leather jackets. If you’ve come for the food, snappy red Thai curry, goat cheese risotto and trout in wasabi
not a chat and a vodka, the owners grill shish kebabs on sauce. The commitment to excellence here is second to none,
an open coal fire and fill your table with salads, pilaf and while expats starved of authentic Mexican cooking should skip
dolma. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. (14-50zł). right to the burritos (see Mexican section). Find it inside the guts
PJAUIS of a medieval tower just off ul. Kraińskiego.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. (24-68zł). ALEGSW
Austrian Kardamon E-4, ul. Włodkowica 8, tel. 071 783 60 12.
Galicja A-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 66 (Polonia Hotel), tel. Three lavish chambers with each serving a different purpose:
071 342 21 75, www.galicja.wroclaw.pl. Huge, formal bar, restaurant and lounge, the latter replete with luxurious
and slighly musty the Hotel Polonia’s restaurant comes leather sofas. Supremely elegant with tiled floors and inven-
with a classical atmosphere and portraits of Emperor tive lighting this masterpiece comes with quirky touches like
Franz Jozef glaring down on the scattering of diners. The an antique silver till and a pervasive scent of cardamom. It’s
food is every bit as you’d imagine from a middle-of-the- a fusion menu, and the chefs aren’t afraid to get seriously
road hotel. Not bad, but let’s face it, you’ve got a zillion creative here with knockout dishes that have proved a hit on
better places to visit.Q Open 13:00 - 21:00. (13-85zł). the local dining circuit. QOpen 11:30 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
PTABS 11:30 - 23:00. (18-45zł). PAS

Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

36 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 37

branch-like lights. As day dims into night this place fills with
Zbigniew Cybulski noisy diners hoisting pint glasses and getting stuck into plates
cascading with crinkly fries, cabbage and meaty dishes. The
Referred too as the Polish James Dean Zbigniew ‘Zbyszek’ end result is delicious and guaranteed to leave guests fiddling
Cybulski personified the confusion and longings of Po- furtively under the table as belts are readjusted. QOpen
land’s post-war youth. His image – dark glasses, leather 11:00 - 24:00. (10-30zł). PAUXSW
jacket, angry young man frown – was so widely emulated
that a border guard once pointed at him sneering ‘there’s
another idiot pretending to be Cybulski’. He was born in Greek
1927 in what is now Ukraine; his mother saw active ser- Akropolis A-3, Rynek 16/17, tel. 071 343 14 13, www.
vice during WWII with the Red Army, while his father was akropolis.wroc.pl. Apparently Plac Solny just wasn’t central
imprisoned in France for his work with local resistance enough for the Greeks, as they’ve packed up and plonked
fighters. His cinematic debut (and Roman Polański’s) came themselves in a handsome new location smack on the Rynek.
in 1954 when he played a small role in Andrzej Wajda’s Seems they’ve also traded up with the interior design, swap-
film, A Generation. His big break followed in 1958 when ping breezy seaside villa for a dark wood, wine-warm elegance
he starred in Krzyż Walecznych, and later that year he more befitting the historic townhouse it now occupies. Indeed
shot to international fame when he was nominated for a the gold and lavender walls seem to compel you to buy an
BAFTA award as best foreign actor for his seminal role, obligatory bottle of red. Remaining is Akropolis’ Godfather
that of a troubled resistance fighter in Wajda’s 'Ashes factor, where well-dressed cigarette-smoking patrons wine
and Diamonds'. From there he became one of Poland’s and dine their dames in what is still one of the best ethnic
best known faces, appearing in a string of hit films. His restaurants in the region. The menu of seafood and Greek
premature death came on January 8, 1967, when he was meats from the grill hits the mark - we ordered lamb and
killed while jumping onto a moving Warsaw bound train at were not disappointed. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (30-50zł).
Wrocław’s train station. Only the day before he had been PTJABXS
informed that he was to star in the New York production
of Tennessee Williams’ ‘A Streetcar Named Desire’. His
impact on Polish film cannot be underestimated, as proved Chinese
in 1996 when readers of Film magazine voted him Poland’s Bistro Green Papaya A-3, Rynek 7, tel. 071 343 70
‘Best Actor of All Time’. A plaque commemorating his life 81, www.greenpapaya.pl. Here’s the quickie version of the
was unveiled on platform three of Wrocław’s train station next door Green Papaya, with straight-forward Chinese dishes
by his mentor Andrezj Wajda in 1997. Two years later a served up for the kind of crowd who do lunch-on-the-run. A
star honouring Cybulski’s achievements was unveiled on decent budget option, with the chefs clearly knowing their way
Piotrkowska’s walk of fame. around the tools of their trade.QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (10-18zł). PTAUBS

odNOVA E-4, ul. Włodkowica 9, tel. 071 782 60 90, Green Papaya A-3, Rynek 7, tel. 071 343 70 81, www. include a well, local artwork and potted shrubbery in every Dominikańska C-3, Pl. Dominikański 1 (Mercure Pan-
www.odnova.pl. Wrocław’s most original restaurant, and greenpapaya.pl. Decent Chinese situated in the building conceivable form. The menu does the rest with a strong orama Hotel), tel. 071 323 27 00, www.mercure.com.
already making waves for all the right reasons. The menu here that connects the Rynek with Kiełbasnicza. Entered via a line in maritime delights as well as well presented modern Hotel restaurants get a bad rap - and a lot of them deserve it.
is as experimental as any in town, with imported Argentinean pagoda the food here isn’t half bad, with good size portions, Italian dishes. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00. (32-66zł). PT But at the Mercure, you’ll find an eatery that could make it on
beef, plenty of Asian influences and lots of fruits popping into and staff gracious enough to let you tamper with the menu to JAUXSW its own. Surprisingly affordable offerings pay homage to local
the recipes. Set on a street that is fast becoming seriously your hearts desire. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - traditions, with the menu changing as regularly as the seasons.
trendy od Nova features a pseudo Moroccan design with lots 23:00. (22-52zł). PAUBS NEW QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (39-60zł). PTJAUXW
of stenciled wallpaper, plush violet colours and drooping chan- Bistro Cappuccino A-3, ul. Św. Mikołaja 67 (Sofitel
deliers. Supremely attractive, and complete with bar tenders Pekin A-3, ul. Kotlarska 24/1a, tel. 071 787 87 84, Hotel), tel. 071 358 83 00, www.sofitel-wroclaw.com. Europejska B-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 88 (Europejski Silfor
capable of mixing seriously delicious cocktails. Spirits come www.chinskarestauracja.pl. A local favourite, and your This cafe/restaurant loosely attached to the atrium of the Premium Hotel), tel. 071 784 57 31, www.silfor.pl. Meat and
plucked out from behind a gilded frame, before being expertly best bet if you want to eat Chinese food and live to tell the spiffy Sofitel hotel serves breakfast (24-42 zł) and a very potatoes are the order of the day at this small, casual restaurant.
mixed by black-clad good lookers. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, tale. All your standards are cooked well enough, and the limited menu of 3 entrees, one dessert and daily specials. The booths are comfy, but too bad the grumpy waitress was unwill-
Thu 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun interior features only the bare minimum of dragons and You’re probably best off going the coffee and cake route, as ing to play along with our attempts to communicate in either Polish
12:00 - 22:00. (19-58zł). PAUEXSW lanterns. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun there’s something a little odd about eating in what feels like a or English. Inexpensive prix-fixe lunch offers fill this place around
12:00 - 22:00. (17-90zł). PJAGS hotel lobby - albeit a really nice one. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. midday. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. (20-60zł). PAUSW
Spiżarnia E-4, ul. Włodkowica 27, tel. 071 341 41 66, (31-56zł). PTAUW
Inn Door Restaurant A-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 49/57, tel. 071
www.spizarnia.wroclaw.pl. A modern joint with lots of
blacks, reds and local office bods looking like they’ve just International Casablanca E-4, ul. Włodkowica 8a, tel. 071 344 78 787 01 62. Tucked away inside the Holiday Inn, Inn Door offers
finished a tough day on the square mile. Filled with tooting Aquarelle C-3, ul. Purkyniego 10 (Radisson Sas Hotel), tel. 17, www.casablanca.net.pl. The building reeks of nostalgia enormous portions that are guaranteed to plug any holes in your
jazz sounds this is a lovely looking venue, while the menu 071 375 00 00, www.radissonsas.com. What really caught with posh dining rooms stuffed with potted palms, Persian appetite. Dishes appear to have been named after 1930s films,
impresses with a selection of quasi-fusion choices that come our eye on the menu here was the good selection of cheap, rugs and pictures of Bogart and Bergman. The menu features for example, ‘An afternoon in Istanbul’. Very good, but clearly an-
impeccably presented. The only downer here is the terrace, simple kid’s dishes (all priced around 10zł): a rarity in Poland. For a mix of Polish and Mediterranean dishes, with the foie gras noying for the waiters who are called upon to specify exactly what
little more than a couple of tables plonked on an uneven grown ups the selection is no less varied, though the prices are reputed to be the best in the region.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. an afternoon in Istanbul consists of. Despite the confusion the
pavement.QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 22:30. somewhat higher. We always go for the break-the-bank expen- (40-160zł). PTJAXSW European style dishes are always reliable.QOpen 06:30 - 23:00,
(23-44zł). PTAGSW sive but sublime Argentinean steaks, which come with a choice Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00. (26-68zł). PTJAUEXW
of side dishes, but there is fish and pasta too. A well-seperated Cesarsko-Królewska A-3, Rynek 19, tel. 071 341
Jadalnia Dekada H-4, ul. Skłodowskiej 45/1, tel. 071
Georgian non-smoking section and a courtyard terrace complete with lawn
are further bonusses for families looking for somewhere to eat.
92 04, www.restauracja-ck.pl. An impressive effort
with three vaulted banquet halls designed to evoke the 328 48 60, www.jadalniadekada.pl. Cross the river to find
Gruzińskie Chaczapuri A-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 7a, tel. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00. (32-92zł). PTAUEGW empire spirit of Vienna, Prague and Budapest. Muskets the embodiment of cheap and cheerful. Dishes come with jocular
0 512 295 858, www.chaczapuri.pl. We’ve long been and framed pictures hang from the walls and aproned names like Close to your Neighbour and Miss California, though
championing Wrocław as The Next Kraków, and now we’ve Art A-2, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 20, tel. 071 787 71 02, staff rush around polishing cutlery and straightening table the end results are no laughing matter. This is decent meat and
finally got evidence. These guys own five locales in Kraków, www.arthotel.pl. A hotel restaurant that would thrive cloths. On the menu deer, boar and other central European veg cooking served up at a fraction of the prices found in old
and they’ve picked Wrocław as the next stepping stone in their even without its captive audience of hotel guests. The classics, while the cellar houses a huge range of whisky town. Do your dining amid a riot of randomness, brick walls paired
quest for world domination. They’ve employed pretty much vaulted interiors of Art come decorated with light colours, and gourmet vodka. Q Open 13:00 - 24:00. (49-89zł). with mismatching jumble sale furnishings and local handicrafts.
the same formula here with stout wooden fittings found under timber beams and wicker chairs, while visual distractions TJASW QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. (15-37zł). PTAGSW

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38 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 39

Kuchnia Marche A-5, ul. Świdnicka 53, tel. 071 343

Local Heroes - Steinmetz 95 65. A medley of food options await you at Kuchnia, rang-
ing from Polish staples through to Mediterranean dishes to
Charles Proteus Steinmetz Peking Duck. What’s more is the ethnic cuisine is backed up
Born Carl August Rudolph Stein- by authentic chefs; we spied a dude from Thailand working his
metz in what was then Breslau magic on some noodles on our visit. The canteen atmosphere
on April 9, 1865, Charles Proteus is given life by an eccentric market style interior and winsome
Steinmetz was a 1.22m hunchback wenches donning market hats. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat,
genius inventor who at the time Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (10-20zł). PTAXSW
of his death in the United States
after an astonishing and extremely Maria Magdalena B-3, ul. Św. Marii Magdaleny 2
colourful life on October 26, 1923 (Qubus Hotel), tel. 071 341 08 98, www.qubushotel.
held over 200 patents. A radical socialist, Steinmetz com. Another hotel restaurant that matches its accommoda-
received his Ph.D. in 1888 and was shortly after forced tion with top-notch dining facilities. Choose from an assembly
to flee the country for writing a paper strongly criticising of pan-Euro and traditional Polish dishes amidst a swish
the German government of the time. In 1889 Steinmetz interior decorated with dried flowers and pastel colours. Q
emigrated to the US where he soon found a job work- Open 07:00 - 10:00, 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 07:00-11:00,
ing for the General Electric company in Schenectady, 12:00-24:00. (35-79zł). PTJAUIXW
New York, having been headhunted by none other than
Thomas Edison himself. Pan Tadeusz A-3, ul. Św. Mikołaja 67, tel. 071 358 87
35, www.sofitel.com. The Sofitel’s restaurant is one of
A long fascination with alternating current led to him Wroclaw’s gems, and you should under no circumstances allow
patenting a system for distributing AC power (the the hotel location to put you off. The prices might, for this is
ver y life blood of our modern-day existence), a sys- certainly not a cheap place to eat, but in our experience it has
tem he wholehear tedly believed would bring about always been worth it. Take the Kansas steak for example, an
a social revolution worldwide. Dedicating his time enormous hunk of meat that will try and defeat the most beefy
to his work and social causes, including a period as of diners. A little less taxing is the sublime fresh tomato soup,
reforming president of Schenectady’s Board of Edu- perfect for that light lunch. The wine recommendations under
cation and a member of the city’s council. Although each dish are a classy touch even if they are not always - in our
never marr ying, Steinmetz developed a father-son humble opinion at least - the right ones. QOpen 12:30 - 23:00,
relationship wi th his young lab assistant, Joseph Sat, Sun 15:00 - 23:00. (34-128zł). PTAUXSW
Le Roy Hayden, who later moved in with Steinmetz
along with his wife. Pastelowa A-3, ul. Ruska 58/59, tel. 071 344 47 43,
www.pastelowa.pl. The ubiquitous glistening European can-
A keen lover of the great outdoors, our hero built his own teen kitchen with plenty of shiny surfaces and bumbling student
campsite and was often seen being rowed up and down staff. A good location for reasonably priced pancakes and Spiż A-3, Rynek Ratusz 2, tel. 071 344 72 25, www.spiz. NEW
the Mohawk River doing mathematical calculations in a desserts but little else, find it packed at lunchtimes with local pl. In their heyday Spiz were renowned for serving Wrocław’s W Innym Tonie A-3, ul. Odrzańska 24/29, tel. 071
tiny canoe he’d had specially adapted into an office (an office and shop workers. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 best beer. Now they can’t even get that right (see By Night), 785 40 45, www.winnymtonie.pl. Dine to the soothing
extract from his diary of the time reads, ‘It was a hot - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (16-28zł). PTAXSW so what hope the food? While the distant sound of merriment sounds of classical guitar on this pleasingly stylish and
sunny day with almost no wind, and I sat in the sun and roars from the beer hall the Spiz restaurant section sits stub- palatable culinary excursion to unexpected waters. A highly
calculated instances of condenser discharge through an Prowokacja B-4, ul. Piotra Skargi 18a, tel. 071 787 41 bornly empty, the bow-tied waiters left to lurk menacingly in the original menu of international choices leans heavily toward
asymmetrical gas circuit.’). 62, www.prowokacja.com.pl. Downstairs, in the brickwork shadows. Average, uncomplicated and overpriced traditional the French with fondue, escargot and salmon tartar being
vaults of this triple play establishment (bar/cafe, restaurant, fare.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (18-55zł). PTJAXSW interjected by thai soup and a variety of seafoods. Try the
Not one to let his disabilities get in the way of a good club) hides one of the most spectacular wine lists in the city. unique Chef’s Special Soup with celery, gorgonzola cheese,
and worthy life, the Blackstone panatela cigar-smoking You will be blown away by the food too, with the daily specials Tre Piani B-4, ul. Czysta 2-4, tel. 071 793 39 03. A sharp, potato and bacon, topped by bean sprouts - magnifique!
midget was a constant entertainer, cooking meals for a always worth asking the good and friendly staff about. Just blond-looking effort with palms springing into the air, a glass QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (20-160zł).
never-ending stream of guests to his house and filling it a word of warning: you will need a reservation if you want façade and a mezzanine level set over an open kitchen. The PTAEXW
with pet crows, squirrels, raccoons, cranes, dogs and a to eat here at the weekend. Cheaper than you think, it is menu can get seriously inventive with dishes like lamb in snail
pet monkey named Jenny. as popular as it is good. Big groups of men on the razz? sauce and salmon served with pickled onion hiding between Wskazóffka B-2, ul. Więzienna 21. Step inside Wska-
Don’t even think about it. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (21-55zł). more familiar European mains. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (18- zóffka to see what roaming packs of foreign language teach-
The most famous Steinmetz story relates to an incident PTAXSW 74zł). PTAUBS ers do best: gather more tables than is logically necessary,
after he’d left General Electric. The company was having assemble them together making as many screeching sounds
immense problems operating a new system that simply Restauracja Na Strychu E-4, ul. Ruska 34, tel. 071 Vincent E-4, ul. Ruska 39, tel. 071 341 05 20, www. as possible, before proceeding to cover them with bags,
wouldn’t work. Steinmetz was called in as a consultant 334 47 90, www.nastrychu.com. Excellent basement vincent.wroclaw.pl. Set over numerous levels Vincent is papers, fags and vodka. Aside from these intriguing distrac-
and instantl y found the problem, marking it with a piece drinking zone with vaulted ceilings, framed pics of pre-war all woodcutters timber beams, warm corners and dusky tions what you’ll find is a simple space, its crimson walls
of chalk. For his labours he submitted an invoice for Breslau and jumble sale junk like sewing machines and type- lanterns. It looks like an old country inn and the food reflects plastered with cogs, clocks and wheels - all of them set at
US$10,000 dollars, itemised as 1) Making chalk mark writers filling any available space. A couple of sofas and coat the surrounds; manly servings of shashlik, steak and duck. the wrong time, and thereby providing the perfect pretext to
$1, and 2) Knowing where to place it $9,999. hangers add to the feeling you have just invaded the space Not the cheapest meal in town, but certainly worth the miss those classes you had previously arranged. The menu
of some mad old bat. QOpen 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. visit. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (36-81zł). is decent enough, offering a good spread of filling simple
After his death, former President Herbert Hoover headed (19-49zł). PTAXS PTJASW bites that leave you doing some serious belt fiddling at the
a committee to raise US$25,000 to purchase Steinmetz’s end. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00.
house and convert it into a museum. The money was Sir William A-2, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 16-19 (Best Western Wieża Ciśnień E-7, ul. Sudecka 125a, tel. 071 367 19 29, (16-28zł). PAXSW
duly raised, but the city and state couldn’t agree on the Hotel Prima), tel. 071 782 55 55, www.bestwestern- www.wiezacisnien.pl. Affecting the look of a fairytale castle the
responsibility for restoring it. The house was demolished prima.pl. The lurid floral wallpaper will give nightmares to the second floor of this former water tower is now home to Wieża,
in 1938, ending the reign of one of life’s more inspiring frail and infirm but don’t let that put you off your dinner. You’ll one of the few restaurants in town that qualifies the taxi bill. An
characters. The next time you switch on the bedside lamp find some of Wrocław’s best restaurants hiding in hotels and uncluttered design features plenty of red bricks, whites and dark
to tuck into the latest In Your Pocket, spare a thought for
the little people in life who’ve made such a difference to
the Sir William is no different. Immaculate waiters serve top
class game dishes and more international inventions from a
woods, and definitely hails from the ‘less is more’ school of think-
ing. Head chef Jacek Kępa does the rest with a great seasonal
www.inyourpocket.com
us all. And remember, it all started in Wrocław. menu that modifies itself with the seasons. QOpen 06:30 menu that is focused - but not limited - to grilled meats.QOpen
- 23:00. (48-60zł). PTJAUXSW 12:00 - 23:00. (45-85zł). PTAXS

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40 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 41

NEW
Złota Kaczka (The Golden Duck) B-3, ul. Oławska
Discover Italy 9, tel. 071 342 08 30. Behind a somewhat inconspicuous
entrance, this Golden Duck wears a few different outfits: On
the ground floor you’ll find an unassuming bistro ideal for
in Wrocław after-work eats, a coffee or wifi fiddling. But descend to the
downstairs dining and cocktail bar and you’ll discover a stylish,
modern lounge of leather with chandeliers hanging from re-
flective black marble ceilings. The difference from Saturday to
Sunday is as pronounced as sharp-dressed society-climbers
swanking off on the small flashing dancefloor one evening, to
sleepy couples whispering over their meals or snuggling on
the smart decor while local jazz-smiths tweet and twoodle
through the night. The ridiculously over-sized menu also
comes in English and features standouts like grilled venison
with cranberry sauce and plum-stuffed duck. An impressive
and welcome new addition to the city’s culinary catalogue.
QOpen 13:00 - 24:00. (13-68zł). PTYAEXSW

Italian
Original Italian Trattoria Pizzeria Capri Trattoria Pizzeria B-2, ul. Więzienna 21, tel.
Air-conditioned 071 343 20 71. Found inside the Galeria Italia complex
the style here is clear and simple, with visual distractions
The exceptional interior is something essentially limited to the streetside views and the theatrics
you will not forget... of other diners. An ambitious range of Italian dishes can be
found here, with the real emphasis placed on spaghetti,
Open: Everyday from 12.00 till last guest... while the propreitors Italian origins are unmistakable in
their influence on the end product. Prices remain pegged
at sensible levels, providing prospective diners with all the
Trattoria Pizzeria Capri more reason to visit. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (9-120zł).
PTAXS
Ul. Więzienna 21/18, Tel.+48 0713432071
NEW
Invito A-3, ul. Odrzańska 2/3, tel. 0 607 46 24 26,
www.invitopizza.pl. This straightforward pizza, pasta, Novocaina A-3, Rynek 13, tel. 071 343 69 15, www.no- Ohh! Sushi E-4, ul. Legnicka 58/27 (Magnolia Park),
soup and salad spot caters to students with a reassuringly vocaina.com. A fashionable eatery whose now tattered menus tel. 071 350 03 68. Travellers to Poland’s capital may
Orwat flashless cafeteria-style interior and a 15% discount for hav- testify to its popularity. An extravagant design featuring plump already be familiar with the Ohh! Sushi brand, and the
ing academic ID (Mon-Fri 15:00-21:00). There aren’t any scarlet fabrics is perfectly complimented by the crowd of vamps Wroclaw incranation is little different. Find it in the Magnolia
One could easily be excused for thinking that modern Polish surprises on the menu but the food doesn’t disappoint (we found within the four walls. The cooking features standard Italian Park shopping centre. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. (13-60zł).
culture is one large and often frightening amalgam of bad can recommend the lasagne) and the prices are reasonable. offerings, from pizza and pasta to decent pepper steak. QOpen PAUGS
cabbage and boorish expats. True, it doesn’t quite cut the Red walls with black and white photos of Rome, views of St. 12:00 - 23:00. (25-120zł). PTJAESW
mustard of New York or Cologne, and the Poles will probably Elizabeth’s church and the smell of oregano punctuate this Planet Sushi A-3, Rynek 46/47, tel. 071 343 71 18,
never make it into space or even get to work on time, but pleasant, if not profound, eatery. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Secondo Paradiso A-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 27a, www.planetsushi.pl. Planet Sushi is now genuinely across
one thing Poland has that every half-way civilised society Sat 11:00 - 24:00. A tel. 071 371 44 71, www.secondoparadiso.pl. Sure it’s the planet, with branches stretching from New York to
would cut off their own ears for is a man called Darek Orwat. located on the ground floor of a mid-range hotel but don’t let Wrocław. These franchise operations have their critics but
A graduate of Wrocław's prestigious Academy of Plastic La Casa F-4, ul. Wita Stwosza 16, tel. 071 344 13 that deter your visit. The white seats might show signs of we like the simple, well priced food - there is tepanyaki for
Arts, Darek Orwat hails from this city, is described by those 41, www.lacasa-restauracja.pl. Modern Italian cooking scuffs and age but there’s little else wrong in this slick effort. those who want more than sushi - trained staff and genuine
who know and love him as an idealistic dadaist, and is, in a presented inside a brick lined room that never overshadows The design is modern and minimal and a glass frontage allows sushi ‘sit at the bar and choose’ layout. Table service is avail-
nutshell, refreshingly odd. Discovered by über-cool Polish the considerable efforts of the chef. The results are frequently for plenty of people spotting. On the menu it’s well-presented able, but best to leave such uncouth things for the tourists.
theatre director and playwright Jacek Papis, the mysterious outstanding, and there’s also plenty for those who wish to dishes that range from carpaccio to beef fillet. Not bad at all. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (18-69zł).
Orwat is currently making waves in the Polish art world with stray a little further than the Adriatic; the Asado steak is If you’re just here for the drinks then prop up the bar and get PTAXSW
his unique blend of delightfully meaningless creations. The well worth shelling out for, with the cow coming direct from stuck into the Peroni lager. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed
some-time actor and set designer is best known for two Argentina - he did not die in vain.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri Sun. (28-98zł). PAUXW Sakana A-2, ul. Odrzańska 17/1a, tel. 071 343 37 10,
recurring themes in his work. As a sculptor, Orwat fashions 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (15- www.sakana.pl. Arguably regarded as the best sushi in the
enormous cuddly toys from bright material and fur, sticking
silly flashing lights where their eyes should be and getting
45zł). AXSW
Japanese capital, the Sakana team have expanded to cover Wrocław
and the natives appear to be loving it. Expertly prepared raw
usually coherent curators to put them willingly into their La Scala A-3, Rynek 38, tel. 071 372 53 94. La Kyoto Sushi bar & Japanese club B-3, ul. Wita fish floats by on small boats inside a pleasant white interior
galleries. Described by one gallery as a painter, handyman Scala enjoys a big reputation though a visit here makes Stwosza 15a, tel. 071 783 04 06, www.kyotobar.pl. A decorated sparingly with bamboo bits and bobs. Definitely
and philosopher-charmer, Orwat also spends excessive you won d er wh y. A ch eap l o okin g lamina te d m enu basement sushi bar with walkways lined with pebbles and a one of the addresses to be seen dining in, as proved by the
amounts of his time taking photographs of himself wearing is presented by plodding bow-tied wai ters while the number of rooms spidering off into different directions. Pick of crowds of fashionista who prop up the bar. QOpen 12:00 -
ridiculous jam-jar spectacles and superimposing the results interiors - red chequered tablecloths, pictures of rural the bunch is a secluded room where diners get to sit cross- 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (30-60zł). PTAGSW
over the top of iconic photographs. Thus will a Darek Orwat Italy and strings of garlic - look worn and dated. But legged on a matted floor, its privacy particularly handy for
exhibition often include several walls of large prints showing the bad news here is reser ved for the food. We opted the sausage-fingered chopstick challenged. Kids aren’t left
seven Orwats winning the FA Cup final, or a solitary, pensive- for pepper steak and while it was acceptable we were out either, with a separate corner featuring fluffy toys and a
looking Orwat sat alongside a resplendent Maharaja. If the a little surprised to find it ser ved with absolutely zero mural picturing an octopus touting a Karate Kid headband.
Poles ever do make it into the stratosphere, let’s hope they
choose Darek Orwat - himself a big fan of outer space - as
condiments; surely an ideal oppor tunity for the staff to
get proactive and sug gest that any extras have to be
As for the menu, that’s a rundown of traditional Japanese
hot and colds. Let the number of regulars we spotted speak
www.inyourpocket.com
their flight commander. ordered. Q Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. for itself. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun
(12-70zł). PTJABXSW 13:00 - 22:00. (23-61zł). PTAUXS

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42 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 43

Stara Kanapa F-4, ul. Św. Antoniego 15 (Pasaż

Korean made using fresh tortillas, real cheddar cheese, Mexican
rice and red kidney beans. Bliss. And this place isn’t short Niepolda), tel. 071 343 77 42, www.stara-kanapa. Middle Eastern
Darea B-2, ul. Kuźnicza 43/45, tel. 071 343 53 01, on atmosphere either, but that’s what happens when you pl. Bathed in a permanent half light Stara Kanapa is Alladin’s A-2, ul. Odrzańska 23, tel. 071 796 73 27,
www.darea.pl. A huge open plan space that does little in choose to locate yourself inside a restored 13th century an appealing space scattered with retro sofas, chunk y www.alladins.pl. Crossed scabbards and Persian rugs
the way of décor, but plenty for the reputation of Korean tower. A must-visit, and if not for the food then a look at the radio sets and pictures of scantily-clad beauty queens hang from the walls inside a reddish Arabian Nights interior.
food. Overseen by a Korean chap who settled in Poland bargirls. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. waving their legs in the air. Although better known as The menu is a predictable range of above average grilled and
over a decade ago Darea offers a cracking menu of both (24-68zł). AEGSW a nighttime venue they’re proud to proclaim a list of skewered meats, and is definitely a cut above other Middle
Japanese and Korean dishes including yokhue (chopped Mexican eats, though when we dropped by there was Eastern options such as Sphinx. What you may not find is
raw beef), bulgugi and five grill options where the cooking Meksykańska Tequila A-3, Pl. Solny 11, tel. 071 no English menu and fur thermore no ser vice. We left, good service; our waitress did an incredible job at making
is left to the patrons. Highly recommended and a confirmed 341 01 14, www.tequila.gdziezjesc.info. The owners hungr y, and we’ve seen nothing to sug gest that oth- us feel like escaped perverts. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri,
favourite of Wrocław’s expats. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. (30- have obviously been reading the ‘How not to run a Mexican ers won’t share our fate. Q Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (14-20zł). AS
60zł). PTAS restaurant’ manual, a best seller in this part of the world. 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 14:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00.
Your burritos here come buried under cabbage and green (19-22zł). PAXS Mercado A-3, ul. Igielna 8, tel. 071 344 40 40, www.
Mediterranean tomatoes, while the accompanying salsa has the crunching
kick of a glass of milk. Amazingly quiet nights are a rarity here The Mexican B-3, ul. Szewska 61/62, tel. 071
mercado-restauracja.pl. Robotic service inside a pleasent
cave-like room filled with pine fixtures and families with toddlers.
Kaliteros A-3, Rynek 20/21, tel. 071 343 56 17, www. and the whitewashed interiors - decked out with sombreros 324 13 86, w w w.mexican.pl. Sometimes a place To call the menu ambitious would be somewhat modest: Italian,
kaliteros.eu. We at first thought the menu here was sus- and bandit posters - are frequently packed. If you must visit gets slandered so badl y i t creates enough of an ou tcr y Syrian, Greek, Indian, Chinese and Greek dishes are just a few of
piciously Italian for a Greek restaurant, but that was before then don’t miss the garden, one of the most scenic in the for IYP to suck up i ts pride and send another edi tor your options. We plumped for a curry and were surprised to be
we were told they had reprofiled as ‘Mediterranean’. Expect city. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (18-69zł). to investigate. Such were th e circumstances of our rewarded with chips, salad and a bun alongside cuts of meat in
a hodge-podge of choice then, from standard pasta to more PJARBS recent visi t to The Mexican - a li vel y, colour ful venue a watery sauce.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00,
adventurous octopus, and a sensational selection of meze we were happy to award points to for the Corona bottle Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (13-78zł). PTJAXS
(you can take 10 types for 110zł).QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Mexico Bar A-3, ul. Rzeźnicza 34, tel. 071 346 02 chandeliers and the winning midriffs of the wai tresses.
(20-62zł). TJAXSW 92, www.mexicobar.com.pl. A compact interior includes Th en our drink arri ved - a flaccid margari ta craf til y Piramida B-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 12, tel. 071 344 58 44,
a chandelier crafted from Corona bottles, cacti and Aztec clog ged wi th ice and lemon slices and barel y a trace www.piramida.wroclaw.pl. Set inside an interior consisting
Mexican masks, and you may have to ring in advance to guarantee
a table; the natives regard this as the best Mexican joint in
of tequila. And the glass was rimmed wi th sugar. Ay
caramba. M eals h ere are pre ce d e d by exa c tl y si x
of Egyptian scrolls, fairy lights and hieroglyphs the chefs at Pi-
ramida have researched their recipes to bring you the authen-
Abrams’ Tower C-3, ul. Kraińskiego 14, tel. 071 town, and as such it’s frequently packed to the gills. Do they complimentar y cheese-flavoured corn chips and lousy tic dishes once enjoyed by the pharaohs; pizza, kebabs with
725 66 52, www.abramstower.pl. There’s a deluge of know something we don’t? Our meal was a calamity. Perhaps salsa, b efore large, misguided en trees arri ve on a cabbage etc. Basically this is the poor mans Sphinx, which is
Mexican eateries in Wrocław, and absolutely none get it the chef had lost his tin opener, maybe he was thrown by our bed of krau t (one of our enchilladas was smothered in every bit as sinister as it sounds.QOpen 12:00 - 22:30, Fri,
right - if anything you’ll be lucky to come away with your request for no cabbage, either way our order took forever to sweet and sour sauce). The main thing The Mexican Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (16-39zł). PTJAXS
guts in one piece. Bucking that trend is Abrams’ Tower, turn up, and when it did we immediately wished it hadn’t. has going against i t is that we’ve eaten good Mexican
a magnificent restobar overseen by Frederick Abrams, a Decorated with peas and fluorescent sauces the burritos food before. While this could be a fun place for lads to Ramzes E-5, ul. Sądowa 14, tel. 071 341 20 24. An exact
Californian native whose done the unthinkable and intro- here are an utter disaster, while the salsa tastes like some- have a few beers, we reall y can’t recommend any thing replica of all the other venues listed in this section; find kebabs
duced quality Mexican food to the city. On offer are a line thing from a squeezy bottle. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat else. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. served with cabbage to a crowd of students who know no
of fajitas and quesadillas, though our pick are the burritos, 12:00 - 24:00. (15-60zł). PTJASW (15-30zł). PTAESW better. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (10-28zł). PJUXS

ul. Kuźniczaa 43/45

50-138 Wroc claw
tel. (071) 34
43 53 01
fax. (071) 34
42 10 15
www.darea.pl
restauracja@ @darea.pl

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44 RESTAURANTS
Sphinx B-3, Rynek 39/40, tel. 071 795 77 30, www. JaDka A-3, ul. Rzeźnicza 24/25, tel. 071 343 64 61,
sphinx.pl. Considered by many Poles as the height of sophis- www.jadka.pl. Faultless modern and traditional Polish cuisine
tication, Sphinx’s nationwide chain of identikit restaurants served inside an ornate, imperial backdrop featuring vaulted
offer cheap plates of poorly cooked kebabs and steaks with brick ceilings, timber and starched linen. Expect an expansive
heaps of cabbage delivered to your table by amiable men wine list, professional service and an all round commitment
dressed as penguins. There’s something very strange going to excellence. One of the few world class dining options in the
on here, because as queasy as the food often makes you, city. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (38-82zł).
you do find yourself going back for more. Somebody should PTAS
definitely look into this QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 24:00. (15-60zł). PTJAUBXSW Karczma Lwowska A-3, Rynek 4, tel. 071 343 98
87, www.lwowska.com.pl. A mish-mash of dark forbid-
Pizza ding woods, sunny coloured table cloths and assorted
rustic servings of farmyard food. Nonetheless the heaps
Amalfi B-2, ul. Więzienna 21, tel. 071 343 67 84, www. of sausage and game dishes come served with beer in
amalfi.pl. A bright, sunny option filled with chequered patterns ceramic mugs and come in generous portions. The sepia
and pleasant service. The menu is basic pizza and pasta options, pictures you see on the walls are of Wrocław’s spiritual
with the pizza marinara presenting great value. There’s little danger twin town, Lwow. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (22-45zł). PT
Amalfi will be challenging Wrocław’s premier league Italian eateries, JAEXSW
but this is a superb choice for an informal, budget-priced lunch date.
QOpen 12:00 - 00:30. (20-199zł). PTAS Karczma Młyńska C-2, Wyspa Słodowa 10 (Tum-
ski Hotel), tel. 071 322 60 77, w w w.hotel-tumski.
Pizza Dominium A-3, Rynek 60, tel. 071 343 18 30, www. com.pl. This place takes th e stan dard tradi tional
pizzadominium.pl. A stringent indoor non-smoking policy, bal- theme to higher level. Great ri verside views, and an
loons, mini-sized pizzas for kids and super staff make this a hit English/German menu complement th e fast ser vice
with families. For the rest of us there is the usual pizza and pasta and gu t-busting por tions. Whereas bratwurst in beer
to choose from, with the goulash (available as a starter and as (16zł) may not seem like the most ambi tious choice,
a main) a tasty surprise. In fact, we recommend bypassing the i t played i ts par t in what was an enjoyable experience
pizza and ordering the goulash. It’s a revelation. Really.QOpen from star t to finish. Q Open 13:00 - 23:00. (19-52zł).
11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (15-38zł). AGS TJAUXSW

Pizza Hut A-3, Rynek 48, tel. 071 386 17 56, www. Karczma Piastów A-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 6, tel. 071
pizzahut.pl. You know the deal. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, 372 48 96, www.dworpolski.wroclaw.pl. Par t of the
Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (11-42zł). PTJAGSW network of rooms found on the ground floor of Dwór
Polski. E xpect chunk y peasant furnishings of colour ful
Pod II Strusiem A-3, ul. Ruska 61, tel. 071 343 43 car vings and piles of firewood, and similarl y robust
23, www.pizzeriapodstrusiem.pl. Set inside a former meals. The ser vice is gloomy, but the pork chops and
public lavatory Pod Strusiem serves decent pizza inside an pigs trotters make for a super feast. The cour tyard
aboriginal themed intrerior. Cheerful service ferries standard would be excellent, were it not for the awful Astrotur f
value pepperoni, as well as maverick options like ‘Indian pizza’ and pop music. Why? Q Open 11:00 - 23:00. (28-45zł).
and ‘Bavarian pizza’. Strangely, considering the theme, none TJAXSW
of the pizzas feature anything remotely linked with Australia.
The piece of paper handed to you at the start of the meal is Kurna Chata A-2, ul. Odrzańska 17, tel. 071 341 06
the electronic code for the toilet. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, 68, www.kurnachata.pl. Ghastly yellow windows hide one
Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (14-21zł). PAGS of the top budget choices you’ll stumble across. Feast on
platters of uncomplicated Polish delicacies inside a chalet-
Telepizza A-5, ul. Kościuszki 147, tel. 071 787 99 07, like, pub atmosphere. The prices are rock bottom, and the
www.telepizza.pl. Poland’s best pizza chain. QOpen 10:00 food is the sort of culinary genius that only a grandmother
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. (14-45zł). PTGSW could perfect, so be prepared to wait around for a spare
table. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30, Mon, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:30.
Polish (8-20zł). JAGSW

Dwór Polski A-3, Rynek 5, tel. 071 372 48 96, www. Multifood STP B-3, ul. Kuźnicza 10, tel. 071 344
dworpolski.wroclaw.pl. Decorated with stuffed falcons and 54 49, w w w.multifoodstp.pl. A large sel f-ser vice
enough medieval armour and weaponry to start a national canteen whose counters come manned with cheer ful
museum this is a suitably upmarket old town feed. The menu red clad staff touting sun visors and t-shir ts. The dining
focuses on boar, deer, pigs and ducks, all carved up with pew- hall is largely anonymous, but the food - plates of meat
ter cutlery. If you’re a vegetarian, run. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. and veg - has already won a loyal following. Ever y thing
(30-60zł). PTAXSW is priced at 29zł per kilo, with your bill worked out once
you reach the end of the queue. Additional locations
Gospoda Wrocławska A-3, ul. Sukiennice 7, tel. 071 in Magnolia Park (ul. Legnicka 58) and Marino shop-
342 74 60, www.restauracjekrawczyk.com.pl. A traditional ping centre (ul. Paprotna 7). Q Open 10:00 - 21:00.
restaurant featuring plenty of high backed chairs, halberds, PTUGS
copper pans and 80s hits. The menu is standard medieval
fare, with dishes like ‘duck in King August II sauce’ arriving on Oregano B-3, ul. Kuźnicza 57/58, tel. 071 344 40
big wooden boards. It looks decent enough, the problem here 86, www.oregano.com.pl. An attractive cellar decorated
is the food just isn’t very good. The chef clearly doesn’t like with picture frames, creepers and stained sofas. Cheap,
to cook very much, evidence provided by the bleeding mass warm and lively, Oregano serves above average pizza and
that purports to be a steak - it’ll take five minutes to exit your pasta to a dark backdrop of forgotten flea market finds.
system, though a lot longer to leave the memory.QOpen QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. (25-45zł).
12:00 - 24:00. (18-70zł). PTJAUBS PTJAXS

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46 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 47

Piwnica Świdnicka A-3, Rynek-Ratusz 1, tel. 071 369 you won’t need to eat the next day. Lamb, venison, steak Kentucky Fried Chicken B-3, ul. Świdnicka 13a, tel. Wieża Ciśnień Bistro E-7, ul. Sudecka 125a, tel. 071
95 10, www.piwnicaswidnicka.com. Pub, restaurant and and fish are charcoal grilled and garnished with high-end fix- 071 341 85 83, www.kfc.pl. Chicken drumsticks served 367 19 29, www.wiezacisnien.pl. Visitors to the water
historic experience all rolled into one. This is the oldest hostelry ings like pear, peach and vodka. Enthusiastic portions and under the gaze of Colonel Sanders and photos of grown men tower already have one very good restaurant to visit on the
in the city, with a story that dates back to the 15th century. The unflagging quality; don’t pass it by. QOpen 12:00 - 23:45. dressed as chickens. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - first floor. Now there’s a second eatery, this one on the ground
centuries have seen a slew of famous diners pitching up here, (20-59zł). PASW 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (11-16zł). PAGSW level, and laid out in canteen style for the lunch-on-the-run
with a roll of honour found in the entrance in close proximity to modern man. The bubbling pots of grub here won’t disappoint,
a stone bear - rub his shiny tongue for good luck. If the spring Żak A-3, Rynek-Ratusz 7/9, tel. 071 344 56 00, www. McDonald’s B-3, Rynek 30, tel. 071 342 17 00, www.mc- with a tempting selection of tasty meat and potato dishes
has arrived early then take to the outdoor terrace to enjoy pub restaurant.wroclaw.pl. Oompah-pah decorations, golden donalds.pl. You know the drill. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Thu 07:00 guaranteed to leave you readjusting your belt. But that’s not to
grub served under the gaze of a stone carving depicting a typewriters on the wall and waitresses sleeping on the tables - 02:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 03:00. (12-16zł). PAUGSW say improvements can’t be made; a price list would be helpful,
drunken husband receiving a scolding from an unamused wife. mark this amusing little anomaly out as one of the old town’s for instance. As would a couple of labels next to a few of the
In colder climes descend downstairs into their vast labyrinth of more interesting restaurants. Geared towards German tour- NEW more unidentifiable dishes. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun
vaulted rooms, where bow-tied waiters produce a vast menu ists, the menu features a range of surprisingly good dishes Misz i Masz B-2, ul. Nożownicza 14, tel. 071 343 90 67. 10:00 - 21:00. (12-30zł). TABXS
that includes all the classics of the Polish kitchen. QOpen including a clear, peppery beetroot soup, Silesian sausages This centrally located student canteen is a good place to go
12:00 - 23:00. (12-75zł). PTAUEXS and old Polish tripe. Avoid if you’re in a hurry or were on the
winning side in WWII. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. (15-46zł).
if you’re travelling on a budget and have an appetite for some
proletarian Polish food. All the standards can be found inside this Russian
Pod Gryfami A-3, Rynek 2, tel. 071 344 33 89 ext.17, TJAUEXSW striped cafeteria that comes off as slightly less desperate than Sankt Petersburg A-3, ul. Igielna 14/15, tel. 071 341
www.podgryfami.pl. On the ground floor of this 14th cen- your typical milk bar. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. (8-14zł). PX 80 84, www.sanktpetersburg.pl. Class dishes, including
tury townhouse roosts an artsy, elegant stained wood cafe
well-suited for a glass of wine and a cloudy conversation. But Quick Eats Ready’s A-3, Rynek 15, tel. 071 343 29 12, www.
soups, herring and meatballs, served amid a ceremonious
atmosphere. Brisk, waistcoated waiters ferry some of the
should your stomach lead you towards their well-regarded Bazylia B-2, ul. Kuźnicza 42, tel. 071 375 20 65. A clean, readys.com.pl. Paper napkins and plenty of plasticky bits best cooking in the city to tables of wealthy locals and
restaurant and you’ll descend two disorienting levels below modern, spacious and rather tinkly affair, find a wide selection and bobs greet you in what rates as a very poor man’s Sphinx. moneyed expats. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (42-88zł). PT
ground to an awkward labyrinthe of ancient, sprawling cel- of Polish and other hot dishes sitting in metal tins and more Eating is just a means to an end here, with plates of kebab JAEBS
lars. Unfortunately the ambiance of this fascinating space or less ready to eat. If you’re in a hurry, this place, with huge meat, fries and chicken being the core dishes. You may enjoy
Ready’s, but only after a dozen beers. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
is a bit put off by an overabundance of random art on the
walls and cheesy jazz and r’n’b music. The food, however,
windows overlooking the wonderful University Church of the
Blessed Name of Jesus, offers cheap, fast and filling food and (16-26zł). PTAXSW Seafood
is nothing to poke at, with pork, duck and veal dominating soft drinks at extremely affordable prices. QOpen 08:00 - Fish Restaurant A-3, ul. Sukiennice 6, tel. 071
the menu. The arrival of our fried camembert salad beneath 20:00, Sat, Sun 07:30 - 20:00. (7-13zł). PJUGS Subway E-4, ul. Legnicka 58 (Magnolia Park), tel. 0 693 342 74 56, w w w.restauracjekrawczyk.com.pl. A
a silver serving canopy only seemed silly until we tasted 82 76 17, www.subway.com. Lunch-on-the-dash has never galleon like interior comes complete with nets, lanterns
it - somebody take a bow.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (29-85zł). Burger King E-4, ul. Legnicka 60 (Magnolia Park), tel. been this good. Sandwiches in Poland have traditionally been and bubbling por tholes filled with ner vous looking fish
PTJAEXW 071 386 17 48, www.burgerking.com.pl. Our favourite sub-standard (stray gherkins, green tomatoes, you know the waiting for their moment of execution. While the name
source of cholesterol finally arrives in Wrocław. Stuck out in drill), but Subway redress the balance serving a cracking col- won’t be winning awards for creativity this is the best
Pod Złotym Jeleniem A-3, Rynek 44, tel. 071 372 the Magnolia Park mall BK serves up all the Whoppers you lection of sarnies that vary from pocket-size to the length of seafood option to be found, with a menu that includes
39 51, www.restauracjekrawczyk.com.pl. An upscale require for those critical between-the-shopping moments. a missile. Combos range from teriyaki chicken to meatball, all stewed catfish, squid rings and a concise selection
grill pub with hunting lodge décor (dark wood, bear skins Comfort food at its best. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. (11-17zł). made using fresh ingredients and served to a choice of bread. of sushi. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. (18-40zł). PT
and animal heads nailed to plinths), and portions so large PAUGSW QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. (7-21zł). PTAUGBSW JAUBS

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48 RESTAURANTS CAFÉS 49

Spanish summer terrace) all ensure that this Spanish eater y

stays stoked with happy patrons. Inside you will find a Cafés
Centro Tropicana D-4, Pl. Wróblewskiego 3a, tel. 071 vaulted room full of gloomy corners and a scar y man- NEW
343 34 08, www.centro-tropicana.com. You can learn nequin dressed like a matador. For the full faux-Spanish Afryka A-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 24, tel. 071 341 77 32.
to tango, salsa and shake your thing in any number of ways effect, Desperados beer (it’s actually French!) can be An old standby, we’ve finally put this one to print: This cozy
at this place, which doubles as a dance school and as bar, indulged in, but at 14zł a bottle it isn’t half as good a retreat serves coffee, teas and cakes from an expansive menu
restaurant and live music venue - so make that quadruples, value as the terrific food. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. (20- of flavours, blends, liqours, syrups and countries of origin to
actually. The food is convincingly exotic, and the staff are as 50zł). PJAGSW mull over. [Unfortunately it’s not in English, but surely you’ve
friendly and helpful as they come. Live salsa, reggae and the wherewithall to order yourself a cuppa.] Rather than
Latino gigs most evenings, which are usually free for diners.
For details about dance courses call ahead. Also note that the Vegetarian pasting the place with tribal masks and lions’ manes, Afryka
is sparing in its details, favouring white walls and furnishings
place is popular with private parties: phone ahead to check it Green Way F-4, ul. Kuźnicza 11-13, tel. 0 71 341 90 given character by their texture. An array of kettles, cups and
isn’t closed. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 01:00. 98, www.greenway.pl. A canteen-style affair offering coffeeeware is also on site, as well as bulk beans and teas
(5-35zł). TIEXS decent fare to the health-conscious diner. Bites on show to steep at home. Recommended. QOpen 09:30 - 22:00,
include falafel, enchiladas, samosas and quiche, and it’s Sat 09:30 - 23:00. TJAGSW
Taberna Flamenca Camaron A-3, ul. Ruska 19, tel. very much hard to find fault with any. A budget hero, and
071 782 20 20. A cheerful looking Spanish haunt with a recognized as such by the students, eco-warriors and Antrakt A-5, ul. Bogusławskiego 25, tel. 071 361
wood-decked bar downstairs and a dining room lined with modern mums who gather here. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. 89 16. Antrakt is one of the main reasons why the former
patterned tiles upstairs. A trickling fountain gurgles in the (6-20zł). PTAUGS Bogusławskiego ‘hood’ is now a fine and almost respectable
background while the crooning sounds of a Spanish guitar place to be. It still has its edge and seedy side of course, but
set the scene for what could be a great evening. It proves Vega B-3, ul. Sukiennice 1/2, tel. 071 344 39 34. if great little places like this keep opening up: a good eat cafe
anything but, and that’s down to the kitchen. Gazpacho Samosas, pakoras and a small range of juices are dished serving all sorts of treats like tasty pierogi, Hawaian chops
here is seemingly tipped from a carton, served in a mug and up in a simple, canteen-style environment. Colour comes and such like, then underneath the railway arches will soon be
without any of the diced ingredients you might be hoping for. from oversized pot plants and adverts for kung-fu classes. the hippest part of town. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. P
Don’t expect things to improve with the arrival of the mains: QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. (5-20zł).
our beefsteak was cooked unevenly, and the accompanying PTJGS Artzat A-2, ul. Malarska 30, tel. 071 372 37 66, www.
potatoes served in a thin sauce with the consistency of water. artzatcafe.pl. One of the towns premier cafés. Scarlet walls,
Note that listening to the guitarist upstairs warrants a rather
unromantic 20zł surcharge. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat Vietnamese glass sconces and framed photos present a calm retreat to
read a clever book and watch the world. Good selection of
12:00 - 24:00. (20-45zł). AEXS Da Lat A-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 74, tel. 071 344 39 30, tea, coffee, cakes and ice cream. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri,
www.dalat.pl. Depressing. Hidden behind a sooty facade Sat 11:00 - 02:00. PAUXW
Taverna Espaniola A-3, Rynek 53/55, tel. 071 344 Da Lat greets customers with tinny Oriental pop hits and
65 62. Six types of paella, a good range of tapas and a jungle of droopy paper lanterns. Eat here once, then Cafeterie Chic C-2, ul. Katedralna 6, tel. 071 327 13
tor tillas, fish in abundance, a superb veg gie selection promise never again. QOpen 11:00 - 22:30. (14-60zł). 55. This might just be the quintessential Wrocław café. Find
and a coveted location (including the terrific Rynek-side TAEXS it (which you must, it is well disguised) just past the Cathedral
over on Ostrów Tumski, and enter a world of marbled floors,
tiny little tables, period lamps and the dreamiest apple pie Local Heroes - Max Berg
and raspberry sauce in Poland. Popular with ladies of a certain
age who have little to do except visit cafes and eat what they Born in the coastal town of Szczecin (then known as Stettin) in
would call ‘naughty’ cakes, it might just be our favourite place 1870 Max Berg went on to become one of the most eminent
in Wrocław. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. PAGS architects of his time, and nowhere will he be remembered
more so than in Wrocław. He attended the Technische
Cafe Uni B-2, Pl. Uniwersytecki 11, tel. 071 375 28 38, Hochschule Charlottenburg in Berlin where his development
www.cafeuni.pl. Formerly a scrappy student bar with smoky as a budding architect was nurtured first by Carl Schafer,
corners and peeling Klimt prints. The builders have been in, and then by Franz Adickes. On graduation he worked as a
and transformed this space for the worse. Colourful catalogue building inspector in Frankfurt am Main, and in 1907 was
furniture sits amid clinical white floors and a wall made of glass commissioned to sketch a blueprint for the redevelopment
blocks; think London 1986. But while Uni has the atmosphere of Berlin. These plans were never realized but that did not
of a dental surgery its location on the doorstep of the main stop his progress. In 1909 he was appointed Wrocław’s (then
University faculty keeps it crowded with academics. QOpen Breslau) chief architect and set about designing his defining
Welcome to THE MEXICAN restaurant 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. JAESW work – the domed Hala Ludowa (I-4, ul. Wystawowa 1). Then
known as the Century Hall the reinforced concrete dome
Are you searching for a quiet corner, where you Coffeeheaven B-3, ul. Świdnicka 3, tel. 071 341 85 became the largest building of its kind when it was finally
92, www.coffeeheaven.pl. A bright and vivacious take unveiled in 1913, and in 2006 was awarded the status of a
could hide yourself on a Friday evening? on the Starbucks theme only much better than the original. UNESCO World Heritage Site. Berg was a keen proponent of
You don’t know where you can eat something new? The best place in the city for coffee, cakes, smoothies, the modernist style, and in particular uniform concrete struc-
Do you fancy something spicey? sandwiches and wraps, though the ordering system, pay at tures. Living on ul. Kopernika 19 Berg set about changing the
one counter, wait for your winnings at another, often turns to look of Wrocław, with structures including the hydroelectric
farce. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 power station on ul. Nowy Świat and the public baths (now a
THE MEXICAN offers you a great deal more. - 21:00. PJAGSW Pizza Hut) on ul. Marii Skłodowskiej Curie. His vision included
maniacal plans to knock down the buildings ringing the Rynek,
Coffee Planet A-3, Rynek 7, tel. 071 796 45 40, www. replacing them with concrete office blocks and a 20 storey
Wrroc
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eet) venue has an artsy atmosphere, a great choice of caffeine equal measure and many projects were canned after heated
highs and a range of events that include DJ sets, photo debate. Disillusioned with his perceived lack of support he
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33 exhibits and drag queen shows, even. That said it appears opted for early retirement in 1925. A keen humanitarian he
to be far more popular by day than at night: when we visited refused to join the Nazis and instead dedicated the rest of
www.
ww w.me
w. mexica
me
mex can.
n.pl
pl first thingin the morning it was packed, when we came back his life to the study of Christian mysticism, living out the rest
at 9pm it was deserted. QOpen 07:30 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 of his days in the spa town of Baden Baden.
- 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. PJAEXSW

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50 CAFÉS NIGHTLIFE 51

Coffeina B-3, ul. Świdnicka 8, tel. 071 343 96 17. Pre- Wroclaw bars are flexible - no matter what the official
mium Illy coffee, friendly little blond waitresses in tight tops closing times are, most pubs will stay open until the last CRK
and a killer hot chocolate make this a favourite haunt of roving customer has crawled out. Most bars are concentrated
Pocket editors. Be prepared for a bun fight to bag one of the around the Old Town market square, but also check out ul. Looking for an alterna-
big bay windows that look out over Wrocław’s wide pedes- Ruska which is the best street for studenty bars. tive to trendy lounges
trian shopping street, Świdnicka.QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat and mindless club mu-
sic? Need allies for your
11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. ASW
Bars & Pubs n ex t p ol i ti c a l a c ti o n?
Czekoladziarnia E-4, ul. Włodkowica 19, tel. 071 797 7 Kotów (7 Cats) A-3, ul. Św. Mikołaja 8-11, tel. 071 Looking for a free place
57 16, www.czekoladziarnia.wroclaw.pl. Filled with grind- 341 04 88. Filled with floral curtains, ceramics and wooden to crash? Head to CRK,
ing contraptions and the rich smell of roasted coffee beans chests this spot has a warm atmosphere, and permanently Wrocław’s counter-cul-
everyone from suited bozos shouting into their phones to hums with the sound of students getting drunk. On the bar ture headquarters. In a
motherly types dressed exclusively in floral patterns. Dimly find a big brass bell for calling last orders, a tap serving dodgy neighbourhood north of the city centre, across
lit and equipped with a few sofas this is a top choice if you’ve Murphy’s, and a collection of rather nice bar girls to look an isolated quad, buried between some forgotten
got an hour to lose. The first syllable refers to the numerous at. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 03:00, Sun back-lot apartment buildings, the ‘Cultural Resus-
sweets and treats found behind the counter, safely glassed 15:00 - 01:00. JAX citation Centre’ (Centrum Reanimacji Kultury) has
off from the enquiring fingers of the pre-teen population. been breathing fresh air into the iron lung of Poland’s
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. Świat Chin A-3, ul. Igielna 16, tel. 071 346 08 32, www. Abrams’ Tower C-3, ul. Kraińskiego 14, tel. 071 725 conservative culture and pissing on the shoe of the
TAGSW swiatchin.pl. A charming tea house stacked with flowers, 66 52, www.abramstower.pl. Set in a great big medieval powers-that-be for the last eight years. Walk through
bone china and wind chimes. The list of aromatic teas and tower Abram’s Tower is a little tricky to find, but your map the gates of CRK on a Saturday night (go ahead,
Esencja B-3, ul. Kurzy Targ 3, tel. 071 792 58 90, www. inexpensive snacks (spring rolls etc) is impressive, but the flapping is rewarded by a fantastic space set over three kick ‘em down if you want) and you’ve discovered
esencjacafe.com. Supremely elegant, and the kind of place incessant twitter of caged budgies is enough to make you levels. Enveloped in dark reddish colours this place catches a home grown scene of do-it-yourself debauchery.
you’ll fit right in reading a heavy duty newspaper. Ochre walls wish the blighted birds were dead. Haphazard service from the attention with a supremely lazy atmosphere, a knock-out Hippies, hipsters, artists, activists, runaways, crusty
and wooden floors compliment the extravagant arrangements easily confused Chinese waitresses. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. wine list and a chilled out music policy that captures the mood punks, drunks and dogs swill vodka and smoke hash
of cakes and desserts, and the staff are expert in fussing over PJGS perfectly. Highly recommended.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, together in the secluded courtyard of this abandoned
guests. On the menu everything from salads and breakfasts, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. AEGW tenement, surrounded by righteous murals, car parts,
to Italian coffee and freshly squeezed juices. A perfect spot, W Biegu Cafe A-5, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 2-4 bicycles, empty bottles, rotting sofas and chairs. First
and located just off the main square. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, (Arkady Wrocławskie), tel. 071 367 90 15, www.domi- Academus A-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 23, tel. 071 788 77 10, squatted in 2000, this semi-legal site has been ex-
Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. PJASW nata.pl. More and more cities are putting out the welcome www.academus.pl. On the surface Academus is far from panding its scope and activity within the community
mat for Poland’s latest coffee chain, and Wrocław is just captivating; sparingly decorated with a couple of medieval since its embattled inception. Already hosting some
Kalaczakra B-3, ul. Kuźnicza 29a, tel. 071 372 35 71, one of a number. Bathed in voluptuous reds and browns W bits and bobs (including a weird ball and chain thing above 150 concerts in the small live venue on the left-side
www.kalaczakra.com. A budget beauty, with stone clad Biegu’s signature are huge photo prints of grinning buffoons, the door). By the stairwell you’ll find a giant world map dot- of the courtyard, CRK has developed a renowned
flooring juxtaposed against walls of weird artwork, dimmed while the deep sofas are perfect for locking horns with that ted with pins indicating visitors from across the world. The reputation that regularly draws acts from as far as
lighting and gentle looking yogic folk. Run by the same big book you always carry around. The good news doesn’t reason for this is straight forward: excellent beer straight the US to its stage. From hardcore to punk to post-
people behind the next door Kalambur, so expect much of stop there. The coffee’s good, the staff even better, and the from the Browar Amber microbrewery.QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. rock to avant-garde, it’s not the music as much as
the same spaced-out spirit, as well as an array of healthy, menu more than just a range of pre-packed sandwiches; PJAW the independent, anti-commercial aesthetic and
planet-conscious eats. Check out their film screenings for check out their numerous pasta offerings, all of them priced message that matters here. Across the courtyard
something really potty.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - around the 20zł mark. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - Altana Pub B-3, ul. Kotlarska 40, tel. 071 372 57 43. you’ll find Cafe ‘Utopia’ – a quiet meeting place and
24:00. REGSW 20:00. PAUXSW The interior is an attractive combo of copper pans, timber art-cafe by day; now filled with pierced punk queens,
furniture and strings of foliage, while yellow walls prevent any dreadlocked pacifists, chair-kicking teenagers and
Lodziarnia La Scala A-3, Pl. Solny 10, tel. 071 342 00 W Biegu Cafe E-4, ul. Legnicka 58 (Magnolia Park), tel. smoke damage the future may bring. Expect the worst of both aging activists downing dirt-cheap drinks and moving
82. Servings of top-class ice cream and some half decent 071 349 02 41, www.wbiegucafe.pl. This smart café on worlds: local radio and daytime TV are often played simultane- madly to energetic ethnic music and Polish hip-hop
paninis keep La Scala choc-full of sweet toothed locals. Sit the ground floor of Magnolia Park is ideal for those who like ously. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 02:00. J until the power cuts out (which it did in true squat
inside to marvel at the cherubs on the ceiling - most likely to sit inside a shopping centre on a warm sunny day wearing spirit while we were there). And while it’s 4 am and
painted by the owners children. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, sunglasses. Good pastries and cakes (the croissants espe- Blue Bar Cafe A-3, Pl. Solny 8/9, tel. 071 343 41 26. these kids aren’t shoving off until this rig goes live
Sun 10:00 - 23:00. PJUGSW cially are worth a nibble) though you run the risk of sharing You’ll think you’ve seen this bar before. Upbeat Latino tunes, again with Goran Bregovic’s ‘Kalashnikov,’ it’s not all
personal space with utter ponces. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. big sunflowers and catalogue furniture make Blue Bar no counter-culture chaos at CRK. On the contrary, you’ve
Pod Kalamburem B-3, ul. Kuźnicza 29a, tel. 071 PAGSW different to the crop of half-trendy cafe/bars springing up gotta have a lot of respect for the projects being or-
372 35 71, www.kalambur.org. An all-round artsy venue across the country. A projection screen relays everything ganised between bouts of revelry. Tomorrow morning
where good, simple and really cheap food (including plenty of Wedel H-4, Pl. Grunwaldzki 22/123, tel. 071 796 79 from sports events to daytime soap operas. A thin strip of the debris (human and otherwise) will be cleared and
vegetarian options) such as spinach pancakes, tangy French 46, www.wedelpijalnie.pl. The Wedel experience isn’t terracing outside is popular with the sort of people who wear the communal kitchen will start cooking. CRK’s ‘Food
onion soup and numerous types of pierogi are served in a unlike stepping into the pages of Charlie and the Chocolate sunglasses balanced atop spiky hair.QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Not Bombs’ program has been running for the last ten
wonderful Secessionist setting. There are also art exhibitions, Factory. Poland’s premier chocolate company have been Fri 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. years providing hearty meals for everyone in need of
poetry readings and heaps of other art-folk events. A one stop busy launching cafes across the country where people can PJAW one in nearby Staszica Park (F-2), where every Sunday
shop for eternal students. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, sample their confectionary, and this place is no different from at 15:00 hungry locals line up with their own flatware
Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 02:00. JUEXSW their other ventures. Maroon coloured walls come festooned NEW for a hot meal. CRK is also home to an art gallery,
with pictures of Wedel’s founding fathers, while dark woods Casa de la Musica A-3, Rynek 11/12, tel. 071 343 silk-screening workshop, music studio, internet radio
Pomorzanka B-3, Rynek 59, tel. 071 346 06 92. The and white leather seating create an upmarket ambiance one 72 62, www.casadelamusica.pl. A fun and welcome ad- program and literary magazine, as well as provid-
widest selection on ice cream, cakes and pastries on the wouldn’t expect of the mall location. Chocolate, cakes and dition to the Rynek, this Cuban-themed music club takes all ing a backdrop for countless demonstrations, film
Rynek. Colour scheme provided by peach wallpaper, white pralines of every description sit behind the glass counter, the best aspects of Cuban culture - sparing patrons glorified screenings, meetings, readings, exhibitions, lectures
tables and blue-rinse grannies. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. and prove every bit as a delicious as the aproned angels portraits of Che in preference for colourful framed cigar labels, and workshops for children. More information can be
JGBSW who serve them. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. an antique cash register and proper mojitos. With Latin DJs found on their website, as well as the events posters
PAUGW playing passionate salsa, rumba and merengue music, the and flyers all over the city. If you want to mingle with
Soul Cafe A-3, Pl. Solny 4, tel. 071 343 47 83, www. lack of a designated dancefloor deosn’t stop anyone from Wrocław’s alternative youth, this is the place to do
soulcafe.pl. A compact, narrow space that’s still just as Witaminka B-3, Rynek 52, tel. 071 343 15 24. Excel- cutting a rug; in fact the smooth DJs often leave their station it. BYO booze and get busy.
trendy and popular as when it opened a fair few years back. lent cake goes for 40zł per kilogram in this large, airy café. to take local lasses in hand and put on a dancing clinic. If you
You don’t have to have an oriental tattoo or a handbag full There’s a sprinkling of chandeliers, plants and mirrors by know how to move to this music, consider yourself money Centrum Reanimacji Kultury (CRK)
of Bond-style gadgets but it certainly helps. Very white, very way of decoration, but Witaminka’s more about the cake in the bank; if not, be careful - or your girlfriend will have the F-3, ul. Kazimierza Jagiellończyka 10c/d
minimal and highly recommended. QOpen 07:30 - 22:00, Fri, than the atmosphere. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - time of her life while you sit and shrug down a beer. Chump. www.crk-wro.info, crkblabla@gmail.com
Sat 07:30 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. PJABS 21:00. JGBS QOpen 14:00 - 02:00. PAEW

Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com wroclaw.inyourpocket.com January - April 2009

52 NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE 53

Cegielnia B-2, ul. Więzienna 21, tel. 0 693 97 40 05. Globetrotter A-2, ul. Garbary 5, tel. 071 342 51 62, Inspiracja A-3, Pl. Solny 16, tel. 071 346 09 83, www.
Judging by the décor it’s the food that is the draw; find www.globe-trotter.com.pl. An interesting venue filled with inspiracja.wroc.pl. Split in two sections. Out back black tie
strings of black wooden cutlery dangling from the ceilings Indiana Jones explorers loot. On entrance you’ll be confronted waiters hover around in an olde world, classic Polish restau- www.inyourpocket.com
and pumpkins sitting on a brick bar. We can’t comment on with a chamber stuffed with maps, charts, books and dials, rant. In the front, a hip bar with lounge seating, dim lighting
the food - it never arrived - but this does also serve as a while in the next you’ll find a more private space seemingly and waitresses who could have stepped from the pages of
vaguely fashionable drinking spot; though you’ll need to dedicated to the world of aviation - check out the zeppelin a magazine. Behind the bar well-trained staff mix knockout NEW
place your order at the bar to staff who stoically refuse that hangs from above. Very much a decent place, but its no cocktails. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00. PJAIXW Kredens A-3, ul. Szajnochy 11, tel. 0 511 30 39 94,
to leave their station. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun man’s land location seems to guarantee low takings.QOpen www.kredens.wroclaw.pl. Inheriting the space formerly
12:00 - 24:00. PJX 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. PAUX Jazz Club Rura A-2, ul. Łazienna 4, tel. 071 799 09 occupied by the now defunct Dobre Czasy, Kredens cre-
07, www.jazzklubrura.art.pl. A dark, atmospheric space ates a rather above-ground atmosphere in what used to
Celtic E-4, ul. Ruska 51 (Pasaż Niepolda), tel. 071 Graciarnia A-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 39, tel. 071 slightly off the path beaten by most. It’s nothing great, but be just another cellar bar. A DJ spinning old school funk
344 34 25. Just how Irish this place is we’ll let you de- 795 66 88, www.graciarnia.com.pl. If you want to drink the bar staff do sometimes go AWOL, meaning barflies have and soul for a desolate little dancefloor on a Friday night
cide; visitors can expect no Guinness, no Murphy’s and among student girls wearing big beads and stripey leggings the opportunity to top their own drinks up. The live music indicate it may not last much longer than its predecessor
no warm welcome - in fact, you may not get any welcome then head to Graciarnia, where decoration surely comes talent is worth dropping by for. QOpen 13:00 - 02:00, Fri, however. Wallpaper with old school American newspaper
at all. When we visited the barman was nowhere to be courtesy of an abandoned skip; here it’s all tables that shake Sat 13:00 - 04:00, Sun 17:00 - 02:00. JEW prints of Lindbergh’s trans-Atlantic triumph and Kitty Hawk
seen. Some visitors may use such an opportunity to their and wobble, and an assortment of absurdities that number a clippings, two bars where one would suffice and needless
own advantage by nicking the day’s takings, but judging trumpet, a headless mannequin and a set of cupboard doors. John Bull Pub A-3, Pl. Solny 6-7, tel. 071 344 25 20. table service characterise what is generally a groovy little
by the lack of customers you’d be lucky to come away An obscure musical menu matches the beatnik mood, and On the face of it this is a classic English pub, and it looks the hangout great for drink anytime in any company. Raise a
with a couple of cobwebs. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Thu you’ll need to bring your sharpest set of elbows if visiting at part with a low ceiling, convincing bar and a decent range of glass to its longevity... QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 03:00, Fri 10:00 - 06:00, Sat 11:00 - 06:00, Sun night; seats go as quick as toffee. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, ales. But with no Sky Sports (or even a television, for that 18:00 - 05:00. PAE
11:00 - 01:00. PAEXW Sat 17:00 - 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. AEXW matter) on offer, the John Bull loses out time and time again
to Guinness across the road. Given that just about every NEW
Chill Out Club A-4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 45 (en- Grawitacja I-3, ul. Grunwaldzka 67, tel. 071 328 40 30. Englishman in Wrocław pops his head in at some stage to Kropka Chlup & Go B-3, ul. Szewska 59/60, tel. 071
trance from ul. Św. Doroty), tel. 071 344 50 64. Dark A fine boozer this one, and not short on character either. Find a ask, ‘You showing the game tonight?’ you’d think the owners 344 24 81. Odd place, this one. Upstairs you have a stylish
and unmarked and with an entrance found down a shadowy number of nooks and alcoves spidering in different directions, might take the hint. Apparently not. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, and intimate bar where everything costs 4zł and comes in a
alleyway this venue is strictly reserved for those In The each kitted out in eclectic style. Sit amid bookcases and lamp- Sun 10:30 - 01:00. PJAW quantity proportional to that price - resulting in a lot of people
Know. Check out the Afro stencil art on the walls outside shades inside this flea market haven, or if you trust your sense drinking out of juice glasses. Downstairs is a small cellar dining
before entering this hotbed of Wrocław counterculture. of balance perch yourself on one of the swings suspended by Karczma Pod Szczęśliwym Kupcem B-3, Rynek area of bricks and candlelight. In lieu of a proper food card,
Dreadlocked musicians hold court on low slung sofas in a the bar. Wonderfully wacky, and with a decent music policy 46/47, tel. 071 343 27 46. The Happy Merchant prob- Kropla Chlup & Go has invented a sort of Polish tapas menu
series of rooms painted in exotic colours and stocked with that bounces from reggae to latin. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, ably takes the prize for the blandest bar in Wrocław - a prize featuring 12 typical Polish foods in small portions (100-220g)
budget paraphernalia, while a series of net curtains add to Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 02:00. A not awarded lightly. You’ve got your fake plants, your mirrors, and all costing 8zł: pierogi, toasts, bread with smalec, barszcz
the private club atmosphere. Expect abstract world sounds, your indifferent bartender and a mile-long menu with nothing with crokiet, etc. - and it’s served 24 hours. Give credit where
and a host of characters that wouldn’t be out of place in a Guinness A-3, Pl. Solny 5, tel. 071 344 60 15. It took the but alcohol. The only thing that sets it apart may be the it’s due - the result is a refreshingly simple snack bar with
student squat. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - barman two attempts to pour our Guinness, but he got there in number of empty seats. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Mon, Tue good music and friendly people, perfect for an after work beer
04:00. JAEX the end: at 16zł a pint we would have expected he got it right 11:00 - 23:00. JAW and bite. Q Open 24hrs. PTIW
the first time, but you can’t have everything. This three-level
Coolturka A-3, ul. Odrzańska 6, tel. 071 341 04 62, pub on the corner of Plac Solny and Ruska is a decent enough
www.coolturka.pl. Busy black-clad staff serve the drinks boozer, and football fans should be aware that this is just about
inside this wannabe Warsaw copycat space, which comes the only place in town you are likely to find your match on the
with trimmings like zebra print seating, exposed pipes and television. There’s half-decent pub grub on offer, and live bands
naked brick walls. The crowd is young and game, and the fun most evenings. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PJAEXW
continues well into the night in the downstairs area. QOpen
11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. PJAW Haggis Pub A-4, ul. Świdnicka 39, tel. 071 342 16
87. Apparently Scottish. Expect a barren pub with a bland
Czeski Film A-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 2, tel. 071 342 25 wooden interior, and vaguely sinister clients. Very similar to
49. Walk straight past the non-descript cafe on the ground the pubs you’ll find in British train stations. The one point
floor and descend into the dimly-lit basement below. Find a of redemption is the cider.QOpen 16:00-24:00, Thu-Sat
maze of rooms regularly heaving with students putting the 16:00-02:00, Closed Mon. PU
finishing touches to their hangovers. A top spot to associate
with friendly locals who are more than willing to introduce you Havana E-5, ul. Kolejowa 20a, tel. 071 786 70 71,
to the messy world of Polish vodka. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, www.havanaclub.wroclaw.pl. Expect the usual story: huge
Thu 09:00 - 01:00, Fri 09:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun portraits of murdering communists Che and Fidel stare from
12:00 - 24:00. PAX the walls, while palm leaves and low vaulted ceilings add a
murky, cluttered atmosphere. Suck away on a plump cigar
Error A-3, Rynek-Ratusz 10, tel. 071 342 55 26, www. while bar staff mix a range of rum-based cocktails to the
prl.wroc.pl. The biggest error you can make here is to start cheerful backing noise of salsa and rumba sounds. It’s good,
your drinking early; they’re open round-the-clock, meaning but when will places like this learn that displaying portraits
there’s no final drinks call to curtail prattish drunken overtures of these people is as morally acceptable as putting up a
to the table of blondes found next to you. In late hours find picture of Hitler? QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Fri 12:00 - 04:00,
after-party casualties flopped on the blue banquettes, making Sat 13:00 - 04:00, Sun 13:00 - 02:00. AW
sense of their brain damage and staring blankly at the photo
portraits of rock icons. Q Open 24hrs. PAW Highlander B-3, Rynek-Ratusz 15, tel. 071 372 55 24.
Not the most original of names, though the terrace seating
Firlej E-5, ul. Grabiszyńska 56, tel. 071 795 66 67, www. - hollowed out beer barrels - are certainly unique in Wroclaw,
firlej.wroc.pl. One of Wrocław’s best kept secrets. In The if not entirely comfortable. Service out on the terrace can
Know art students and wannabe playwrights fill this top-notch be slow too. Inside is a small pub that overdoes the Tartan
venue. The interiors won’t inspire flights of artistic creativity - Army bit somewhat, though the drunken, rowdy, kilted hordes
you’ll find many hotel bars with more daring decorations - but who throng here every weekend seem to care not a jot. For
the live music shows make the atmosphere crackle and fizz. a quiet drink in the Old Town, go somewhere else. QOpen
Q Open only during concerts. PEXW 11:00 - 02:00. JAUI

Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com wroclaw.inyourpocket.com January - April 2009

54 NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE 55

Lemoniada (Lemonade) B-3, ul. Kuźnicza 10, tel.

071 344 85 53, www.lemoniada.pl. The glory days of
disco live, at least they do in Lemoniada, where glittery
balls spin above a young and urban crowd reclined on low
level scarlet sofas. Gilt picture frames contain polka dot
patterns while the fish tank set in the centre of the bar
evokes shades of 70s excess. Hidden down a set of stairs
this crimson pleasure palace has proved to be the bar of the
moment, and as such you’ll need to sharpen your elbows
before assuming stance at the bar. QOpen 16:00 - 06:00,
Wed 16:00 - 02:00, Thu 16:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Sun. PAUEXW

Małgosia A-3, ul. Odrzańska 39/40, tel. 071 343 58

82, www.malgosia.wroc.pl. Jaś and Małgosia - the slim
little buildings on the corner of the Rynek - are as tempting
as the witch’s candy house in Hansel and Gretel. From the
outside, that is. What could be an excellent bar transpires to Novocaina A-3, Rynek 13, tel. 071 343 69 Pod Zielonym Kogutem A-4, Pl. Teatralny 8, tel.
be little more than a long, dank room with ghastly souvenirs 15, w w w.novocaina.com. A main square location 071 342 01 87, www.megaparty.pl. This long, high-
in the entrance, and two wooden tables in the back. Grumpy guaran tees th e crowds, bu t th ere’s plen t y more to ceilinged room looks like a converted Italian restaurant
barflies will love it, others will give it a swerve.Q Open recommend ab ou t this spot aside from a ground zero and has a comfortable atmosphere without a tracksuit
14:00 - 02:00. X location. Black clad blondes humour your fractured or a shaved head in sight. People dance in the small
at tempts at Polish from b ehind a large wooden bar, space in front of the bar, so be careful when you’re car-
Mike’s Bar A-3, ul. Św. Mikołaja 67 (Sofitel Hotel), while por trai t frames han gin g from th e walls reveal rying drinks through. There’s a huge wooden cock above
tel. 071 358 83 00, www.sofitel-wroclaw.com. Find plasma screens relaying thin girls doing th eir thing on the bar. Rooster, that is. Q Open 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
off duty business travellers nursing tumblers of whisky Fashion T V. Plush red seatin g and cinnamon smells 16:00 - 05:00. PA
and huge cigars inside the Sofitel’s bar. Talk of finance is are enou gh to en tice af ter-office drinkers to stay on
pleasantly drowned by anything from Irish drinking tunes for ‘one more drink’ while th e stack of piz za b oxes Pracoffnia B-2, ul. Więzienna 6, tel. 0 603 58 54
to easy listening elevator tunes. Full of leather upholstery b ehind th e bar su g gest a menu aimed at in-b et ween 96, www.pracoffnia.pl. Sneak through an iron gate and
and sepia prints of pre-war Breslau Mike’s is an intimate b eer momen ts. Downstairs opens in to a more clubby descend the stairs into what was once a medievel prison.
spot, and one of the few hotel bars that doesn’t resemble space, wi th stainless steel toilets a fashionabl y ironic Now cluttered with X-ray machines, projectors and other
an airport bar. Of note, the staff are a mine of informa- 80s st yle. Q Open 21:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, eccentric junk this cellar is without a doubt one of the
tion, and are happy to indulge you in conversation about Wed, Thu, Sun. PJAW best discoveries you’ll make. Chessboards, broken-spined
what to see and do in the city. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00. books and pieces of abstract art add to the avant-garde
PJAUW Paparazzi F-4, ul. Rzeźnicza 32/33, tel. 071 341 atmosphere, while in summer the courtyard is an outstand-
04 85, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Find a hyper cool crowd ing drinking spots. Do they have an Achilles Heel? Step into
Mleczarnia E-4, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. 071 788 24 48, of platinum airheads and local hotshots dressed in col- the toilet. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 15:00 - 05:00, Sun
www.mle.pl. There’s a real Krakowian flavour to this back lars and cufflinks in one of the best bars in the city. A 15:00 - 02:00. J
street bar. Somewhere in the darkness you’ll be able to make rectangular bar is the centerpiece from which black clad
out a boho art crowd discussing heavyweight topics while hipsters mix cocktails with fatal precision, though any Prowokacja B-4, ul. Piotra Skargi 18a, tel. 071 787
huddled over candlesticks. With the onset of night this venue headache the next day is just as likely to be the doing of 41 62, www.prowokacja.com.pl. The vaulted - and
becomes a black fog, with local thinkers groping around to the steel column positioned right outside the gents; you some say haunted - depths of Partisan Hill have finally gone
avoid clattering into the profusion of wobbly tables and framed have been warned. Grand colonnades support the ceiling, under the surgeons knife and been gifted the facelift they
sketches. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. black and white prints of film icons cling to the walls and deserve. The result is Prowokacja, and its simply stunning.
PJAEXW sexy music pipes in the distance; this is designer drink- If the weather is behaving don’t miss their outdoor seating,
ing exactly the way it should be. Q Open 12:00 - 01:00, where a forest of tables and parasols have been positioned
Moloco B-2, ul. Więzienna 21, tel. 071 341 01 32, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. under a shield of colonnades. Inside, downstairs, the brick
www.moloco.pl. Well designed and ultra fashionable so a PJAUEW interiors have been transformed into a smart space holding
high head count of metrosexual cretins comes guaranteed. both restaurant and bar area. This is the new watering hole
Don’t let that deter you from visiting. Galeria Italiana has Piwiarnia Warka E-4, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. 071 of choice for the high-flying set, and with a door policy to
proved a cursed location for a number of ventures, but 341 75 94. A real blokes pub this, what with all the reflect this. QOpen 16:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00.
Moloco looks destined for a long life. Mixing stark white signed football shirts, scarves and team photos. Fitted PAXW
colours with polished brown woods this place features a around the sporting memorabilia are a load of tacky fit-
long bar with huge metallic baubles hanging overhead, tings provided by the Warka brewery, a few TVs, some Przed i Po A-3, Pl. Solny 16, tel. 071 346 08 93.
and a black and white Breslau street scene covering the red vinyl seat covers and a load of local men sporting I t’s hard not to like this li ttle place, which appears to
back wall. Out front top-to-bottom windows allow views of impressive moustaches. A Union Jack hangs mysteriously be popular wi th local office workers as they tip ou t of
a medieval prison while pre-party club sounds elevate the from the ceiling, its presence unexplained by anything we their offices and head here for the obligator y after work
atmosphere as the night draws on. This is as cutting edge saw. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun beer. The summer terrace overlooking Pl. Solny is one
as Wrocław gets, and a visit here is a must for designer 12:00 - 24:00. AW of the best around and gets packed earl y, though like
tagged trendies.QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - th e rath er fu turistic interior i t later empties ou t as
01:00. PAUEXW Pod Papugami A-3, ul. Sukiennice 9a, tel. 071 343 people head home or go to places far more interest-
92 75, www.podpapugami.com.pl. Packed with wasp- ing. Q Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00.
Niebo E-4, ul. Ruska 51, tel. 071 342 98 67, www. waisted blondes Pod Papugami still manages to rate as JAUX
niebocafe.pl. As long as you keep drinking, Niebo will stay one of the top drinkeries in town. Squeeze among the
open, and this has become an after-hours cult classic. This local stars to knock down complicated cocktails amid
dog-eared scarlet and blue bar is the start and finish point film reels, projectors and vintage movie memorabilia. Live
for many Ruska pub crawls, and you’ll find drinkers collapsed music most nights, and the performances are usually very
on scruffy sofas at all hours, while taking in their numerous good indeed.QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Mon 12:00 - 01:00, www.inyourpocket.com
live concerts. QOpen 13:00 - 05:00, Mon 17:00 - 05:00. Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 13:00 - 02:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00.
JAUEW JAIE

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56 NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE 57

Ragtime A-3, Pl. Solny 17, tel. 071 343 37 01, www. no-one, and a free table here is a rarity. A bubbling beer hall
Underground, overground ragtimecafe.pl. In the years we’ve been visiting Ragtime atmosphere prevails throughout this cellar, and the acoustics
not much has changed, only a few more grey hairs on the are often drowned out by pub DJs playing sing-along hits for
You’ll hear of Prague referred to as the city of a hundred patrons. This is an engaging endeavour that refuses to follow the benefit of German pensioners. There’s four house beers
spires, but it’s a description that can easily be applied to fashions and as such has a charismatic personality of its own. to pick from, and to be fair none of them are all that good.
Wrocław. Crane your neck and you’ll find a horizon dotted Vermillion walls are home to all manner of visual diversions, This place is yesterdays news, and the opening of Bierhalle
with church towers soaring into the sky, though few grab from framed pics of jazz gods to a collection of musical instru- is the proof.QOpen 10:00 - 03:00, Mon, Sun 10:00 - 24:00,
the attention like the Church of St Mary Magdalene ments. A wrought iron mezzanine level allows the opportunity Tue, Wed 10:00 - 02:00. PJAXW
(ul. Oławska 19). This Gothic beast received a proper to admire all the clutter and the regular live jazz nights are not
battering during the war, and its cupolas were never to be missed. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Stara Kanapa F-4, ul. Św. Antoniego 15 (Pasaż
replaced after they went up in flames, and neither was Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PJAEXW Niepolda), tel. 071 343 77 42, www.stara-kanapa.pl.
‘the sinners bell’, allegedly the largest in Silesia. The two Immerse yourself in the 1950s by stepping inside this time
towers, standing like stunted tree stumps, are worth Regeneracja F-4, ul. Św. Mikołaja 9-11, tel. 0 601 88 machine. Vintage radios stand alongside pictures of 50s
noting for the bridge that connects them (pictured). 04 06, www.regeneracja.wroc.pl. Wrocław’s latest class beauty queens, while ancient lampshades cast long shadows
Known as ‘the bridge of penitents’, and standing 46 act is more new generation than regeneration, and comes on the Persian rugs spread around. By day business is ticks
metres above ground, this overpass was added in the split with two bars, a dance floor and separate zone for the by with café customers, though it’s at night when things kick
17th century, and the shadows that swirl under it are high and mighty. It’s safe to say a few sovereigns have been off for real. Weekends witness DJs taking to the decks and
reputed to be the ghostly forms of maidens who refused spent on this place, with a top-bracket lighting system in spinning chillout and trance sounds to a crowd taking time
to do household chores, condemned in death to sweep place and a design that will leave you tipping any headgear off from the head mashing sounds that emanate from the
the bridge for eternity. In 1887 a firework display staged you posses; check out the ultra stark white room, a cool Ruska courtyard round the corner. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00,
on it to celebrate the birthday of Kasier Wilhelm I ended work with chessboard flooring and chain links dangling from Mon 13:00 - 02:00, Fri 12:00 - 04:00, Sat 14:00 - 04:00, Sun
with a bang when a misfired firework set light to the north the ceiling. The music is house and disco, and lapped up by 14:00 - 02:00. PAXW
tower. The bridge collapsed after during the war, finally the local fashion casualties. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat
rebuilt in 2002. Less obvious to the wondering eye are 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAX Stare Miasto E-4, ul. Włodkowica 18, tel. 071 341 86
the crypts, tunnels and secrets of subterranean Wrocław. 08, www.staremiasto.wroc.pl. If you’ve had enough of
The depths of Wzgórze Partyzantów (Partisan Hill, see Rejs Pub B-3, ul. Kotlarska 32a, tel. 0 509 79 67 71. Tiny mixing it with the thesps and beatniks on Włodkowica then
page 42) formerly housed medieval torture chambers, and unspectacular but nearly always lively and packed. Decorated point your compass in this direction. Set over two floors Stare
and during WWII new underground fortifications were with Star Wars posters, film reels and Mr Moon smiling from the Misato is a long, narrow space, and decorated with the obliga-
added to house the Nazi high command during the corner of the ceiling, this dark wooden pub attracts Goth students tory pics of black and white Breslau in its heyday. It’s a pub
1945 siege of Wrocław. In the Rynek don’t miss a visit looking for animated discussion to a background of ACDC tunes. by name, though a little more swank than the competition,
to Piwnica Świdnicka (see Where to eat, page 32). QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. J and in summer the riverside beer garden demands a visit.
These underground chambers are home to what is QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00, Sun 15:00 -
claimed to be Europe’s oldest hostelry. Opened in 1519 Salvador A-3, Pl. Solny 16 (entrance from ul. Szajnochy), 01:00. PAEW
previous guests include Chopin and Goethe, and a tunnel tel. 071 342 02 25, www.salvador.pl. Basement bar just
was allegedly constructed to link it with the brewery. off Pl. Solny featuring dark scarlet corners, low level seating Strefa WZ A-4, Pl. Wolności 7, tel. 071 790 00 33,
Elsewhere St Mathias’ Church (pl. Bp Nankera) features and wild parties that only conclude after several students www.strefawz.pl. A vast club that has hosted everything
a crypt that was once used to store the bodies of monks have attempted to pull drunken dance moves on the tables. from fashion shows and jazz concerts to Polish rock legends
from the Czech Order of the Cross, while the catacombs Living up to its title there’s plenty of Dali associated weirdness Lady Pank. Though the interior is strictly drab, club standard,
underneath St. Adalbert’s Church (pl. Dominikański 2) are on the walls, with weird, sometimes profane, pieces of art and illuminated by a dazzling collection of lights and mirror balls,
said to extend to the edge of the old town. photography on the walls. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri 12:00 - this place packs to the rafters with beer monsters, and on
05:00, Sat 17:00 - 05:00, Sun 17:00 - 02:00. AEW the right days represents an anarchic night out. QOpen
20:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PE
Sarah E-4, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. 071 792 49 56. Could
Włodkowica become Wrocław’s answer to Kraków’s Kazimierz Szuflada (The Drawer) B-3, ul. Świdnicka 13, tel.
district? Why not. Its got the Jewish history, its got the trendy 071 341 84 63. Find Szuflada by keeping a look out for
eatery, and in the shape of Mleczarnia and Sarah its got the the metal coat attached to a doorway next to KFC. This is a
flea-bitten bar culture so loved by theatre queens and student long, narrow pub/club with bewildering 80’s noise, clouds of
activists. In this venue it’s all slacker patrons, slow tunes, smoke and a small stage set aside for dance moves. Although
battered typewriters and black and white pics hung at odd largely non-descript it’s as popular as ever with a crowd that
angles. This is exactly what Kraków was famous for before it ranges from teen pigs wobbling around in heels to candidates
was invaded by the stags. And with Bloody Marys priced at for Miss Poland, and a night here is usually terminates with
8zł there’s not one reason to give this place a miss. QOpen the onset of amnesia. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
11:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. AUX - 04:00. PAW

Siwy Dym A-5, ul. Bogusławskiego 63, tel. 0 606 11 60 U Beatki B-3, Rynek Ratusz 13/14, tel. 071 372 55
92, www.siwydym.com.pl. A wonderfully foggy pub for those 27. Follows the unfortunate formula of quite a few old town
who don’t mind drinking underneath a railway line. It’s not ex- bars. Read: brewery parasols, a barman chatting to his mates
actly a clever concept, and no more than an assembly of tightly and beer that tastes suspiciously watery. Small and plain on
packed tables and chairs, good tunes and an all-night crowd, the inside, this is one main square spot that’s best avoided.
but it works effectively and has the habit of becoming a time QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. JAW
trap: enter at daylight, leave in the middle of the morning with
strange phone numbers crumpled in your pocket. Regular jazz Vinoteka la Bodega A-3, ul. Św. Mikołaja 12, tel. 071
concerts keep the punters more high brow than some of the 798 35 11, www.bodega.pl. An educated choice. If you’re
surrounding drinking spots. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00. AE familiar with Bodega’s other enterprises across Poland then
you’ll know the drill here: racks and racks of quality wine from
Spiż Brewery A-3, Rynek Ratusz 2, tel. 071 344 72 25, across the globe, knowledgeable service and an atmosphere
www.spiz.pl. Spiz comes decked out like a Chinese laundry primed for soft conversation with a hot date. Split in two sec-
- what with all the sinister pots and pipes - and is nowadays tions, a cellar with big screen, and an upstairs wine bar, with
remarkable only for the staff; often engaged in open hostili- a selection of tapas to compliment the moment. QOpen
ties with the patrons who pay their wages. But that bothers 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PAUEXW

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58 NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE 59

Włodkowica 21 E-4, ul. Włodkowica 21, tel. 071 Ibiza Beach Club E-4, ul. Ruska 51, tel. 071 787 97 23, NEW
784 48 18, www.wlodkowica21.com. If you’ve just www.ibiza.strona.pl. You have to admire their chutzpah. Wrocław Louis Bar A-3, Pl. Solny 10, tel. 071 342 00 82. No longer Gnomenclature
finished band practice, or at least look like you have, then is as far from a beach as you can get, yet these guys have done content with scooping with ice cream and serving sweets, the
make your way to Włodkowica 21, a bar seemingly aimed all they can to bring a little sunshine to this corner of Poland that team behind Lodziarnia La Scala has reinterpreted the signals, Gnomes and dwarves;
at catching any overspill from the nearby Mleczarnia. But can so often seem forever rainy. Descend the stairs of the Ruska determining that ‚the birth of cool‘ isn‘t about ice cream - it‘s about not what you’d expect
behold, this place has character of its own. Decorated courtyard then for an enjoyable melange of fake plastic trees, jazz, dammit. Or both. This new jazz venue in the same Plac Solny to see lurking in the
with bare brick walls, empty picture frames and various straw chairs, staff in Hawaii shirts and jugs of cut-price Sangria. building has live jazz music Tuesday to Friday nights, with Saturday city of Wrocław, but
junk store detritus this place looks every inch the artists There’s Latino dancing, salsa rhythms and that most Ibiza of club reserved for techno and house. Expect a full review next go round. keep your eyes peeled
haven, and best of all, you don’t need to bring a spare accessories: an electronic darts board. Mind you, given that the QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PAE and that’s exactly what
oxygen tank to survive the night. Q Open 10:00 - 02:00, owners also run the next door Lech Darts Club you can’t blame you’ll find. Really. Think
Fri 10:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 03:000. them. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri 18:00 - 04:00, Sat 18:00 Madness G-6, ul. Hubska 6, tel. 0 501 93 40 68, www. that sounds bonkers,
PAUIEW - 05:00. Closed Mon. Admission free, Sat 5zł. E madnes.website.pl. Everything from Ska and reggae to read on. There’s 15 in
heavy metal nights inside a dark, sweaty space that packs total, the last one being
Złoty Pies (The Golden Dog) B-3, Rynek 41, tel. 071 Jazzda B-3, Rynek 60, tel. 071 346 08 25, www.jazzda. out with hundreds of wear-what-you-like student types. A unveiled on April 26th
372 37 60, www.zloty-pies.pl. Occasionally crowded, usu- pl. Come here for a taste of Saturday Night Fever. A tiny dance simple interior featuring murals of palms and Jamaican flags 2008 to th e ch eers
ally deserted, Under the Golden Dog is a labyrinth of twisting floor that lights up to resemble a chessboard packs out at gives Madness the atmosphere of a British inner-city com- of a crowd waving red
stairwells and dark corners. Stout furniture and rustic junk the weekends, while spinning disco lights and mirror balls munity centre, and the party has been known to go on until umbrellas. Touching
add plenty of rural flavour, while the menu is a straight- complete the Austin Powers feel.QOpen 11:30 - 02:00, dawn. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 03:00. E d own i n th e ci t y on
forward choice of traditional dishes. Likeable as opposed to Thu 11:00 - 03:00, Fri 11:00 - 04:00, Sat 10:30 - 04:00, Sun November 8th, 780,
memorable. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Mon 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:30 - 02:00. PAXW Maniana E-4, ul. Św. Mikołaja 8-11, tel. 071 343 43 70. the gnomes speak only German, Czech, Latin or French
12:00 - 23:00. JAX Go through the courtyard and up the stairs to enter this den of and can be found occupying various corners of the
NEW iniquity, where clientele comes dressed in the latest retro geek city. That’s the official city line anyway; in reality these
Zorba A-3, ul. Przejście Garncarskie 8, tel. 0 602 24 14 Kalambur B-3, ul. Kuźnicza 29a, tel. 071 372 35 71, fashions and committed to excess; don’t let the absence of a diminutive bronze sculptures started appearing in
25. Don’t be conned into thinking Zorba has anything to do www.kalambur.org. An artsy bohemian headquarters by dancefloor stop you from doing your Travolta, spontaneous danc- 2005 and are the work of local artist Tomasz Moczek,
with Greece. This is no more than a small room deocrated day, this tiny Seccessionist space becomes one of the slop- ing is rife and encouraged. Looking rough and scruffy Maniana a graduate from the Wrocław Academy of Fine Arts.
with newspaper cuttings and flickering candles, and it seems piest, most unhinged student clubs in Wrocław on weekend comes with mystical beads dangling above the bar, steel piping Costing 2,000zł each work has become embedded in
to serve as a quasi-living room for the local students. Found nights, with the party going on until dawn o’clock. As drunken and armchairs with springs poking out. Sounds from the last 30 the hearts of the locals, and are apparently equipped
deep in the guts of Rynek-Ratusz. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, revellers bump into the DJ booth, the masses writhe to skip- years spill from the DJ station, booming away long after the rest with GPS tracking devices – though that did nothing
Sat 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. J ping recordings of everything from classic MJ to the Doors to of Wrocław sleeps.QOpen 17:00 - 04:00, Thu 17:00 - 05:00, to stop the one on ul. Jatki vanishing into the night.
Goran Bregovic. So chock-a-block with shimmying students Fri, Sat 17:00 - 07:00, Sun 18:00 - 03:00. PA Although they may sound like a daft tourist gimmick
there is actually a serious background to the figures;
Clubs and hipsters, dancers upstruct the door, so start testing
your moves on the approach cause you’re going right into No Name F-4, ul. Wita Stwosza 16, tel. 071 343 21 40, www. the gnomes, although not the work of the Orange
Antidotum F-4, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 32, tel. 0 664 95 78 85, the frying pan, friend. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat noname.com.pl. Seasonal gimmicks aside - such as their outdoor Alternative, have been interpreted by some people
www.antidotum.wroc.pl. A new find set inside a network of 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 02:00. UW summer beach - No Name is a musical feast for those who don’t as a tribute too them, especially the figure of Papa
underground tunnels. It looks great with a design that’s kept care what they dance to. Different days of the week are designated Krasnal lying at the Świdnicka and Kazimerza Wielkiego
to scrubbed stone walls, stripped wood floors and an array Klub 13 Igieł A-3, ul. Igielna 13, tel. 0 695 32 66 34. for Polish pop, Latin sounds, chart hits and hip-hop. Vaulted medieval intersection. Under communism any anti-establishment
of deep sofas. There’s no surprises found hidden in the DJ’s Wroclaw does mystery very well - it’s all the cobbled side interiors sit uneasily with the spinning disco balls and young crowd, graffiti or public art was immediately painted over by
bag with a safe choice of club house tunes and the occasional streets that do it - and one such mystery is how this place and though it’s completely crass, you can’t help but roll the eyes and the militia; which is where Major Fydrych and his band
disco anthem played to a fervent crowd of Miss Polska six suddenly became a great place in which to spend time. When join the shenanigans. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Thu 17:00 - 03:00, of pranksters step in. If they spotted any graffiti which
footers. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00. PAU it opened it was full of the city’s sunglasses set, thick-headed Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PE had been recently concealed they’d set about covering
loons and their blond tarts. Now you can expect to find a far the fresh paint with daubings of gnomes. From there
Bezsenność E-4, ul. Ruska 51, tel. 071 792 80 48, more laid-back, witty and welcoming crowd, all enjoying cut- Obsesja A-3, ul. Św. Mikołaja 8-11, tel. 071 341 84 25, gnomes became inexorably linked with the Orange
www.bezsennosc.wroclaw.pl. The Ruska courtyard is hot ting edge London sounds provided - most nights - by a DJ. In www.klubobsesja.com. A corking venue with industrial gray walls Alternative, repeatedly cropping up in demonstrations:
news, and this place is the cherry on the cake. Wrocław’s high the afternoon and early evening it doubles as a student cafe. offset by a no-expense-spared décor that includes safari print sofas, International Children’s Day on June 1,1988, was
society gather amid a decadent background of moth-eaten QOpen 13:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 03:00. J curtained off boudoirs and glowing glass blocks. It looks great, but celebrated in Wrocław by dozens of locals dressed
sofas, stark concrete walls and thrift-store furnishings in what not half as fetching as the nymphs who swerve and slink under the as gnomes and smurfs, complete with red hats and
rates as a must-visit venue. On the speakers, everything Klub 54 A-3, Rynek 11/12, tel. 071 343 72 62, www. glittery disco balls. The DJs like interspersing house with disco, and handkerchiefs, while an anti-Chernobyl protest saw
from cool 60s tracks to smooth jazz tunes. Atmosphere in klub54.com. With its horseshoe bar and close quarters, the results are often absolutely riotous as chiseled lads attempt Major Fydrych handing out gnome-like headwear
abundance, and a crowd that could have stepped from the Klub 54 has a pub atmosphere parlayed into a power hour dickish dance turns. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Thu 17:00 - 02:00, to passing pedestrians. Today you’ll find numerous
pages of a top-shelf magazine. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Thu, danceparty by DJs spinning pounding club music. Tan leather Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PAW gnomes secreted around Wrocław, complete with their
Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. PUE booths, chrome pipes that dispense beer and lots of cute own names and tiny signs pointing them out: ‘Patrz
girls in difficult to approach pairs - including the sexy underage Od Zmierzchu Do Świtu A-3, ul. Krupnicza 15 (Hala pod nogi’ (Watch your step), ‘W górę głowę’ (heads up).
Daytona B-3, Rynek 35-37, tel. 071 344 10 79, www. barmaids - make 54 an ideal place to go with friends, but flying Gwardii), tel. 071 796 30 76, www.odzmierzchudoswitu. Look for the fellas at the following locations: Szermierz
daytona.pl. Customers are subjected to a vigorous frisking solo may not see you truly take off, or land you anywhere. The pl. A superb vaulted venue with motorbikes standing behind the in the underground part of the main uni building, Szyfki
at the door, which comes as no surprise considering the bar’s most interesting feature is the trough in the men’s room bar, and even a car chassis bursting from one of the walls. This pushing a granite ball on ul. Świdnicka, Śpioch taking a
meatheads who gather here to swear at each other and leer - above which a one-way window warrantlessly allows you to labyrinthine complex has no problem with atmosphere, least nap across from Św Elżbieta church (ul. Św. Mikołaja),
at tarts. Daytona is a metallic nightmare with unadventurous watch up-close (and have a wizz) as amorous couples make not when its smokey brick rooms crowd out for their live music Rzeźnik currently absent
club sounds and a continual scrum round the bar.QOpen out on the other side of the glass. Voyeurs, urine luck!QOpen concerts - which range from wild rock nights to blues bandstands without leave from ul.
20:00 - 04:00. PA 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00. PJA lapped up by beret-wearing music fans. QOpen 19:00 - 04:00, Jatki, Słupniki (Pl. Solny),
Tue, Wed 19:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon, Sun. E G o łę b n i k (pl. G o łę b i),
Garage E-4, ul. Ruska 51, tel. 071 787 97 20, www. Klub Na Jatkach A-3, ul. Św. Elżbiety 3/4, tel. 071 Strażnik (Ratusz), Kuźnik
garage.strona.pl. No prizes for guessing what music gets 797 66 11, www.najatkach.pl. Split into two sections: the Opium B-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 12, tel. 071 343 05 83, (ul. Kuźnicza), Meloman
played. The customer base seems an even mix between one on the left is where you’ll find DJs spinning experimental www.opiumclub.eu. Walk across a stretch of glass floor- (ul. Oławska), Grajek (ul.
kids who should be getting up for school the next day, and tunes to a crowd of slackers with record bags slung over ing before delving down into this tacky contribution to local Oławska), Pracz (Bulwar
lads swapping cheery anecdotes about prison. On the plus their shoulders. On the opposite end of the building find a nightlife. A glitter ball revolves above the dancers, while scarlet W łos towi c a), a n d t h e
side the Indian-style back room is worth popping by, and bar area with paintings hanging from chains and lighting kept curves and bountiful mirrors complete the gaudy decorations. fat Papa Krasnal on the
the cushioned floor is superb if you plan on getting intimate to a bare minimum. Moody, atmospheric and highly recom- The music is mainstream chart noise, with an over 21 door corner of ul. Swidnicka
with some lucky person. Q Open 17:00 - 02:00, Mon mended. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Mon 12:00 - 24:00, Thu policy ensuring there’s no chance of mixing with the teenage and ul. Kazimierza
17:00 - 01:00, Thu 17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00, 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. Eminem look-alikes found festering inside many of the local A. Webber Wielkiego.
Sun 18:00 - 24:00. PJAUW clubs. QOpen 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. W

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60 NIGHTLIFE
Pasja A-5, ul. Świdnicka 53, tel. 0 609 20 91 60. One from the walls point to a severe lack of imagination on the
of the hottest addresses in town, complete with a whirring behalf of the designers. The deluge of brewery-provided
disco ball and a voluptuous interior of Doric columns and fittings indicate a highly profitable sponsorship deal, though
vanilla seating. The impeccable crowd consists of vampy do little to add to the appeal. Positive points are earned by
girls and lads on the verge of making their fortune, practic- the over 21 door policy, and a team of door police to keep
ing snake hip dance moves to the house sounds that thump Wrocław’s rascal element from walking past the velvet
from an excellent sound system. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. rope. Find a more developed crowd enjoying music that
Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. offers little in the way of surprises; standard chart house
music, and the occasional Latin nights. Not bad, but you’ll
PRL A-3, Rynek-Ratusz 10, tel. 071 342 55 26, www. find far better. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
prl.wroc.pl. You may have noticed the beat-up cars Wed, Sun. PAU
pootling around the streets with pics of Comrade Lenin
painted on them. They’re to spread the gospel of PRL, a Szepty Chillout Cafe E-4, ul. Ruska 47/48a, tel. 071
commie-themed bar with portraits of Chairman Mao and 344 53 25, www.szepty.wroclaw.pl. A completely addic-
other baddies on the walls (which some IYP editors don’t tive space that fills with both fashion followers and students
find to be ironic so much as in very bad taste). The natives wisely investing their scholarship cash on booze. The interior
lap it up and in the evenings the cellar turns into a sweaty must have cost no more than a bag of sausages but still
disco full of wandering hands. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Wed looks great; red walls, some deeps sofas and a scattering
12:00 - 02:30, Thu 12:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. of mystical looking prints and symbols. The DJs know what
PAEXW they’re doing, with some great trance and chillout sounds
spilling from the speakers, and we’d invite you to take a
NEW perch on the mezzanine level, only that’s our favourite spot,
Prowokacja B-4, ul. Piotra Skargi 18a, tel. 071 787 so leave it well alone. QOpen 16:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 16:00
41 52, www.prowokacja.com.pl. With large photos of - 04:00. PUE
naked girls contorted across the same white leather sofas
that circle this white-washed platinum blonde club space, Tabasco B-3, Rynek 27/28, tel. 071 346 89 44, www.
Prowokacja is a wet dream for voyeurs and the voluptuous tabasco.com.pl. Walk through the main square at night and
vixens putting themselves on display atop the steel centre you’ll notice a number of girls in outsized sombreros, flirting
stage. Columns and an upstairs seating area overlooking with intent; it’s their job to lure people to Tabasco, and it’s
the dancefloor - with DJs addressing the throbbing crowds a job they do well. Found downstairs from the Rodeo Drive
from its extended balcony - maintain some of the palacial restaurant this place is packed throughout the week. Fitted
aesthetic of this pulsating venue’s Partisan Hill parentage. in light, bright woods, Tabasco comes with orange walls and
Prepare to make a good impression and dispense some photos of fruit, while DJs play Latin and house sounds to a
cash at the door (20zł on a Saturday) - they don’t want no crowd that cares more for good times than posturing. Mar-
scrubs. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, keted as a club first and foremost, though the satsuma-sized
Sun. PAW dance floor limits dancing to token foot shuffling. QOpen
19:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon. PAW
Przekręt H-4, ul. Polaka 10, tel. 071 321 06 30, www.
przekret.pl. Show your superiority over other tourists by Wagon Club E-4, Pl. Orląt Lwowskich 20a, tel. 071 341
crossing the Grunwaldzki bridge and going to this den of 29 48, www.wagonclub.com. Techno and drum’n’bass
weirdness. Red walls are paired with sofas plucked from chaos at Wrocław’s premier club. Bare bones and indus-
thrift stores, a few posters hanging at odd angles and slip- trial, the maze of brick rooms pack out with clubbers more
pery tiled floors. Beeping dart machines and other annoying concerned about music and dreadlocks than spangly shirts
diversions fill the rest of this basic space. Cheap and hence and blue sunglasses. Decorated with rusty train wheels and
popular with the students; your English accent will make you huge spanners, the enormous speakers quite literally have
high-demand. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, the walls shaking. Pandemonium. QOpen 14:00 - 03:00, Fri,
Sun 16:00 - 03:00. PA Sat 14:00 - 05:00. AEXW

Senso E-4, Pl. Orląt Lwowskich 20, tel. 0 600 55 98

55, www.sensoclub.pl/wroclaw. When train stations in Adult entertainment
Poland die they do not go to heaven, they get transformed Pruderia Pl. Solidarności 1/3/5, tel. 071 781 01 36,
into nightclubs. Senso makes great use of the vast space at www.pruderia.com.pl. Our favourite strip club in Poland,
the former Wrocław Świebodzki Station, though its choice of with private routines that are guaranteed to get the snake
nightly live entertainment is a bit hit and miss. From the Polish poking out of the grass. Allow yourself to be entertained by
Chippendales to Miss Belarus in Poland there seems to be the cocktail grandmaster working from behind the bar, or step
something tawdry going on every night. Great! The locals love among the Bond girls searching for the evening’s sugar spon-
it though, and given that the bar is staffed by enough people to sor. With entry priced at 30zł, and private dances starting
make getting a drink less than the chore it is in other places, at 100zł, this place is by no means cheap, but it gets both
we can see why. When the stage is not occupied by naked thumbs and pecker up every time.QOpen 21:00 - 04:00.
Poles expect sensationally bad Eurotrash mixed with some Closed Sun. PA
happy house.QOpen 21:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 06:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Admission Thu 5zł , Fri 10zł , Sat 20zł Strip Night Club E-4, Pl. Orląt Lwowskich 20a, tel.
for men and 10zł for women. PARE 0 501 70 00 60, www.gogo.pl. A real waste of time,
especially considering there’s a brothel upstairs - why eat
Studio P1 B-3, ul. Szewska 3a, tel. 071 370 69 41, the cherry when you can have the whole cake? It’s thirty
www.p1.pl. Size counts in some eyes, including those of zeds to get past the ape, after which you get the chance to
the owners of P1. This place is huge, which makes the bland buy very expensive drinks for your standard Polski solarium
interiors seem even more of a design disaster. Never-ending casualty. The private dances are rude enough, but you can’t
rows of seats, countless disco balls revolving above the help but leave feeling scammed. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00.
dance floor and boring black and whites of stars pouting PAUXW

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62 WHAT TO SEE WHAT TO SEE 63

Essential Wrocław Churches We lost count after about 200 steps, mostly due to the lack
of oxygen in the narrow, twisting stairwell, though one reader Tours
Cathedral of St. John the Baptist (Katedra św. has written to assure that the tower has 300 steps in all. The
There’s plenty to see in Wrocław, and even wandering Jana Chrzciciela) D-2, Pl. Katedralny 18, tel. 071 view from the top is more than worth it. Open daily, visitors Active Poland B-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 102, tel. 071
aimlessly around the Old Town will prove to be a more 322 25 74, www.katedra.archidiecezja.wroc.pl. Like should ask to be let in at the vestry. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, 354 47 42, www.activepoland.com. QOpen 09:00 -
than rewarding experience. For those looking for a little all of Wrocław’s churches, the Cathedral remains a living, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Sat, Sun Open on request.
more guidance however, you would do well to take into working church. As a visitor you will undoubtedly encounter
our account our picks and tips to ensure they miss noth- queues of people waiting patiently for the confessionals and St. Mar tin’s Church (Kościół Św. Marcina) Cool Tour Company , tel. 0 509 03 18 98, www.
ing of importance. others in quiet worship. The elegant double-spired Gothic C-2, ul. Św. Marcina, w w w.duszpasterstwo.md4. cooltourcompany.com.
building stands like a sentinal at the end of ulica Katedralna, pl. This tiny brick church is all that remains of the Piast
First port of call in Wrocław has to be Market Square, its elaborate portal one of the most valuable medieval arte- dynasty’s 13th-century royal castle, though it, too, was Krzysztof Frączek , tel. 0 691 72 77 62. Q Reserve
the Rynek (A/B-3/4). Note that while the Rynek was facts in the Wrocław. This is the fourth church to be built on largely rebuilt in the 15th and 20th centuries. Before WWII one week in advance. Tours in English 366zł.
originally built and laid out according to a plan in the this site. When construction began in 1244, this was the first the church was a centre of Polish culture in a primarily
13th century, much of what you see is in fact a façade, brick building in Poland. Cathedral-building being what it is, German city. Poles gathered here to hear sermons and Passenger Navigation (Żegluga pasażerska)
quite literally. The square was ravaged by fighting in work continued for five more centuries. The centrepiece of sing hymns in their own language. The last Polish mass C-2, Przystań, Bulwar Włostowica (Wyspa Piasek),
World War II and had to be rebuilt almost entirely the rich, Gothic interior is the altarpiece, painted in Lublin in under Nazi oppression was held here in 1939. The church tel. 0 609 20 08 67, www.statekpasazerski.pl.
in the 1950s. In the square’s centre the Town Hall 1522, showing the Virgin Mary falling asleep. The Cathedral was 80% destroyed in the siege of Wrocław. A plaque Beginning March 15th, hour-long panoramic river cruises
takes pride of place, a miraculous survivor form the suffered massive damage in WWII, with traces of bullet outside reads in part, “We are Poles...A Pole is a brother abroad the good ship ‘Nereida’ are available from the
13th century and the city’s defining landmark. After holes still visible, and has been meticulously rebuilt since. to a Pole...Poland is our mother, we cannot speak badly Bułwar Włostowica harbor on Piasek Island to the Wrocław
exploring the three streets – packed with shops and Of interest, to some at least, the cathedral houses the of our mother.” Zoo and back again for the reasonable rate of 8-14zł. Or
bars - that run under the Town Hall you should head largest organ in Poland, which prior to the war was also the enjoy a 40-minute tour around the Odra abroad an open-
for the neighbouring Plac Solny (A-3), known as Flower largest in the world. But the real highlight of the Cathedral St. Mary Magdalene’s Church (Kościół Św. Marii air gondola boat, rounding the islands in the direction of
market, always a bright sight thanks to the tens of is the panoramic view from its tower. An elevator takes you Magdaleny) B-3, ul. Szewska 10, tel. 071 344 19 Wrocław University, heading to Most Grunwaldski and
flower sellers who are here every hour of the day and to the top of the Cathedral’s tower, which offers a wonderful 04. This massive church was the second to be built on the back to Bułwar Włostowica for 12 zł. On Fridays, Saturdays
night (yes, you can buy a bunch of tulips at four in the view of the city and surrounding countryside. There’s also left bank of the Odra River, after St. Adalbert’s. During the and Sundays, hour-long evening cruises also depart
morning if you wish). a small exhibition at the top of the tower featuring various Reformation it was taken over by the Protestants and was abroad the Nereida at 20:00 and 21:00 with entertain-
objects brought back from missions. Be warned that your not returned to the Catholic church until after WWII. It’s most ment, a bar and food available; tickets 20 złoty. QOpen
From Plac Solny you are only a short walk from St. chances of viewing these spectacular views are slim as striking feature is a 12th-century Romanesque portal that 10:00 - 20:00. Runs from March 15. Nereida cruises every
Elizabeth’s Church (A-3, ul. Sw. Elzbiety), the city’s tall- the tower is expected to close the moment the weather was moved here from the Benedictine abbey. It is considered hour and 15 minutes from 10:00 to 19:00 daily. Gondola
est. Climb to the top for cracking views of the city. Head turns nasty. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 14:00 - 16:00. to be Wrocław’s most valuable relic from this era. QOpen cruises every 45 minutes from 11:00 to 19:15 daily.
next to the stunning University building on, (B-2) Plac No visiting during mass please. 08:00 - 20:00.
Uniwersytecki, whose interiors are quite frankly far too Piotrek Tour , tel. 0 609 21 59 00, www.piotrek-
plush for grotty students. Before heading over to Ostrow St. Adalbert’s Church (Kościół św. Wojciecha) University Church of the Blessed Name of Jesus tour.pl. Q Tours in English for groups up to 40 people
Tumski (C/D-2) pop into the Market (C-2, Hala Targowa) C-3, ul. Św. Katarzyny 15, tel. 071 344 66 31, www. (Kościół Najświętszego Imienia Jezusa) B-2, Pl. 366zł.
on the corner of Plaskowa and sw. Ducha for a look at wroclaw.dominikanie.pl. This heavy, imposing church on Uniwersytecki 1, tel. 071 344 94 23, www.uniwer-
locals living their lives, and for some top quality, dirt Plac Dominikański is the oldest church on the left bank of sytecki.archidiecezja.wroc.pl. This Late Baroque church PTTK B-3, Rynek - Ratusz 11/12, tel. 071 343 83
cheap pierogi. the Odra River. It was founded in 1112 for the Augustinians has been ranked among the most beautiful in Central Europe. 31, www.pttk.wroclaw.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
and later handed over to the Dominicans. It was destroyed It’s certainly the most impressive in Wrocław. The Jesuits Closed Sat, Sun. Reserve one week in advance. Tours
O s t r ó w Tu m s k i i s in the 1241 Tartar invasion and then again in the 1945 built the church as part of the university complex in the in English 320zł.
where Wrocław began, siege of Wrocław. Q Open 10:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 17:00, late 17th century on the site of the Piast castle. Part of the
and it is packed with Sun 13:00 - 16:00. castle structure can still be seen in the northern sacristy, Wratislavia Tour , tel. 0 601 57 84 54. Q Reserve
religious sights and the alcove at the far end of the church. The interior, painted two days in advance. Tours in English 300zł.
historic significance. St. Elizabeth’s Church (Kościół Św. Elżbiety) to imitate marble and gilt, is very well preserved and most
Top of your list should A-3, ul. Św. Elżbiety 1/2, tel. 071 343 16 38, www. of the furnishings are original. Look up to see the fresco on Wrocław Tours A-3, Pl. Solny 14/14a, tel. 071 727
be St. John’s Cathe- kosciolgarnizon.wroclaw.pl. Among the oldest churches in the vaults; the figures are 18th-century depictions of na- 15 34, www.wroclawtours.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
d ra l (D -2, P l. Ka te - Wrocław and the tallest buildings in Old Town, St. Elizabeth’s tives from the Americas, Africa, Asia and Europe. Q Open Closed Sat, Sun.
d ra l n y), fa m o u s fo r is unmistakable. A church has stood on this site since the 07:00 - 08:30, 10:00 - 15:30. From September 15 Open
its stunning stained 12th century, but the current Gothic structure dates to the 07:00 - 08:30, 15:30 - 19:00.
glass windows and for 14th and 15th centuries. This is not the luckiest church in the
its 16th century altar-
piece. To the right of
world: it was destroyed in 1529 by heavy hail, suffered severe
damage in WWII and then was the victim of a mysterious fire in Monuments
the cathedral’s main 1976. Today the church serves as a military garrison church. Alexander Fredro A-3, ul. Rynek Ratusz. Walking
por tal is the Arch- Inside you’ll find impressive Gothic and Renaissance altars around Wrocław’s Rynek it’s impossible to miss the form
bishop’s Palace, now and over 100 tombs of prominent citizens. The 91m tower of the elegant looking fella cast in stone sitting outside
the Archdiocese Museum (the Archbishop lives (the original tower was 128m) is open to able-bodied visitors. the Spiż microbrewery. That’s Alexander Fredro, one of
elsewhere these days). Not to be missed either St. Poland’s most distinguished literary figures. His statue
Bartholemew’s Church, originally a Greek-Catholic replaced that of Kaiser Wilhelm who had stood on that
(Uniate) church. North of here the city’s Botanical
Gardens (D-2) are a real joy.
Tourist information spot during Wrocław’s incarnation as the city of Breslau.
Although unharmed by the bombs and bullets of the war
Lower Silesian Cultural Information Centre A-3, Wilhelm fell foul of the iconoclastic fury that was to follow
Back over the river locals will not forgive you for Rynek - Ratusz 24, tel. 071 342 22 91, www.dcik.pl. in peacetime, and most likely ended up being tossed into
missing out on the Panoroma Raclawicka (C-3), a QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. a blast furnace. When Fredro was unveiled to the people of
140m-long canvas depicting a legendary Polish victory Wrocław in 1956 his plinth came without the aristocratic
over the Russians in 1794. Of the city’s museums we Tourist Information A-3, Rynek 14, tel. 071 344 initials HR. Following popular condemnation the communist
would class the Archeology (A-2, ul Cienzynskiego) 31 11, www.itwroclaw.pl. Brochures, maps, events authorities relented and Fredro has since stood gazing forth
and Ethnographic (H-5, ul. Traugatta) in the essential and advice. There’s now also a second point on (A-3) ul. in all his noble brilliance. Like the Mickiewicz monument in
bracket, while no visitor to Wrocław should leave Sukiennice 12 offering all the above as well as internet Kraków, or Zygmunt in Warsaw, the Fredro statue has grown
without having found all of the infamous gnomes (see access and ticket purchase for cultural events.Q Open to symbolize the city, and is the principal meeting point for
elsewhere in this guide). 09:00 - 20:00, From April Open 09:00-21:00. both canoodling couples, students bashing bongo drums
and political agitators.

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64 WHAT TO SEE WHAT TO SEE 65

Monument to Victims of the Flood (Powodzianka) Ethnographic Museum (Muzeum Etnograficzne)

Water Tower B-2, Most Uniwersytecki. Standing halfway across Most H-5, ul. Traugutta 111/113, tel. 071 344 33 13, www. Jewish Wrocław
Uniwersytecki you’ll come across Stanisław Wysocki’s trib- muzeumetnograficzne.pl. The best part of the Ethnographic
Modelled on a medieval castle the water tower found on ute to the thousands of anonymous heroes who sprang to Museum is on the top floor. Life-size dolls are arranged in Prior to Hitler’s rise to power Breslau was home to a Jew-
(E-7) ul. Sudecka 125a is an architectural masterpiece Wrocław’s rescue during the great flood of 1997. Erected in quaint scenes of life in Silesia before 1945. It won’t take you ish community numbering around 20,000 - the third high-
and not to be missed by visitors. A short taxi drive from 1998 the three metre structure depicts a nameless woman long to see it, but the national costumes and farm equipment est concentration in what was then Germany - as well as
the centre the structure was originally designed by Karl wading out of the water carrying books, mimicking scenes offer a glimpse of life you won’t find in urban Wrocław. And the the second largest synagogue in the country (ul. Łąkowa).
Klimm, an eminent Breslau architect and the brains that took place in 1997 when local students joined efforts to museum’s strange fondness for the definite article in the Although the city remains the home of some 1,000 Jews
behind the (J-4) Zwierzyniecki Bridge. Built between save the priceless artifacts hidden in the University Library. English labels is worth a giggle. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Thu (the second highest figure in Poland) traces of the past
1903 and 1904 the 63 metre tower supplied water to 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5/3zł. Groups over 10 are few and far between. The ul. Łąkowa synagogue was
the residents of southern Wrocław, with the base of the The Anonymous Pedestrians (Pomnik Przejścia) A-5, people 2zł per person, Sat free. torched during Kristallnacht on November 9, 1938, and
building used to house employees. From its beginnings Corner of ul. Piłsudskiego and ul. Świdnicka. When you’re now only a small memorial signifies what once stood in its
this fairytale tower was equipped with an electric lift to tired of gazing at Wrocław’s multitude of cherubs, gargoyles and Geology Museum (Muzeum Geologiczne) A-1, ul. place. The only synagogue to survive the holocaust can
whisk visitors to the top for panoramic views; costing 10 bearded national heroes clutching important pens and looking Wojciecha Cybulskiego 30, tel. 071 375 93 27, www.mgeol. be found in the former Jewish quarter on ul. Włodkowica
pfennigs, a clear day would afford sightseers uninter- frightfully serious, hike on down to the junction of Piłsudskiego ing.uni.wroc.pl. You can see rooms full of rocks and fossils any- 7. The White Stork Synagogue was built in 1829, and was
rupted views of the Sudety mountains 100 kilometres and Świdnicka and have a look at an entirely different take on where in the world. You can also see them here. You won’t learn used during the war as a transit point for people being
away, and from 1908 a red flag would wave from the top public art. The wonderfully lifelike bronze statues descending much about Wrocław and, with everything in Polish, you won’t learn herded to death camps, as well as a warehouse to store
whenever viewing was deemed particularly good. The into the earth that make up ‘The Anonymous Pedestrians’ are much about rocks. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Wed, Fri 09:00 - 15:00, their possessions. Taken over by the Polish government
sculptors Taschner and Bednorz added several intricate a memorial to the introduction of martial law on December 13, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Guided tours 2 days in advance. in 1974 the building was allowed to slide into disrepair
carvings to the sandstone, including medieval style bas 1981, and the hordes of people who disappeared (‘went under- Admission 3/2zł. Guided tours 15zł per group. and gutted by two fires. Partially restored in 1996 the
reliefs depicting winged beasts engaged in gruesome ground’) in the middle of the night courtesy of the militia. The work building is gradually regaining its former glory.
scenes, and a spectacular fountain spouting water from of Jerzy Kalina, the 14 statues were erected here in the middle Military Museum (Muzeum Militariów) A-2, ul.
the underground spring down below. During the 1945 of the night in 2005 on the 24th anniversary of the introduction Cieszyńskiego 9, tel. 071 347 16 96, www.mmw.pl. Old Jewish Cemetery (Stary Cmentarz Żydowski)
siege of Festung Breslau the tower served as a military of martial law, though the prophetic moulds were actually made The other half of the 15th-century arsenal that houses the F-7, ul. Ślężna 37/39, tel. 071 791 59 03. This is a beau-
observation point, and in spite of heavy shelling in the several years before the events the commemorate. Archaeology Museum is, appropriately, the Military Museum. tiful and peaceful place to learn about a part of Wrocław’s
immediate vicinity survived largely unscathed. Up until Not surprisingly, the Medieval halls are filled with arms and history that has all but disappeared. With over 1,200
the 80s it continued to function as a water plant serving gravestones and tombs it is among the best-preserved
Southern Wrocław, though a lack of investment meant Museums weapons of all sorts, many of them dating to the 18th century.
There is also a collection medals - a lot more interesting than Jewish cemeteries in Poland, though it hasn’t always been.
it assumed the brutalized appearance of a blackened Archaeology Museum (Muzeum Archeologiczne) it sounds - and military flags, some of which have the battle The cemetery opened in 1856 and closed in 1942. It fell into
monster, sporadically pockmarked with bullet holes from A-2, ul. Cieszyńskiego 9, tel. 071 347 16 96, www. scars of live action.QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. a state of deep neglect until the 1970s, when restoration
the war. In 1995 it was purchased by Stephan Elektronik mmw.pl. Like all the best museums in Poland, Wrocław’s Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 7/5zł. work began. In 1991 it opened as the Museum of Jewish
Investment who promptly launched an ambitious plan to Archaeological Museum is located inside a building that’s a Cemetery Art. The first Jewish cemetery in Wrocław was
restore it to its former glory. Based on a design by Wacław museum in itself. In this instance the city’s former 15th-century Mineralogy Museum (Muzeum Mineralogiczne) built in the 12th or 13th century in the area now bounded
Bienasz-Necholson countless cash was committed to Arsenal plays host to the usual suspects found lurking in most B-3, ul. Kuźnicza 22, tel. 071 375 26 68, www.muzmin. by Podwale and ul. Krasińskiego. It’s gone now, but the
the project, its rejuvenation as a city icon completed museums of its type. Annoyingly, everything is labelled only in ing.uni.wroc.pl. We’ve included this Lilliputian museum oldest gravestone discovered there (dated 1203) is the
with the recent addition of a top class restaurant (see Polish making navigation awkward, but many of the exhibits, mostly because you’re likely to wander past and wonder what oldest Jewish gravestone in Poland. It’s on display in the
Wieża, Where to eat) and wine store. such as the gargoyles, ancient musical instruments carved out it is. The display cases are filled patriotically with ‘Minerals Archaeology Museum. Q Open 08:00-16:00. From March
of tiny twigs and the reconstructed thatched house all fascinate of Poland’ as well as bits of meteorites. It’s a good place Open 08:00-18:00. Admission 7/5zł.
without the need to know more. Of particular interest is Kantor to get out of the rain. QOpen 10:00 - 15:30. Closed Sun.
David’s gravestone, dated 1203 and believed to be the old- Admission 4/2zł.
est Jewish tomb in Poland, and an excellent model of Ostrów Partisan Hill
Tumski as it was in the 12th century. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, National Museum (Muzeum Narodowe) D-3, Pl.
Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 7/5zł. Powstańców Warszawy 5, tel. 071 343 88 39, www. Partisan Hill B-4. If you’re walking along ul. Ks.
mnwr.art.pl. Wrocław’s National Museum houses one of the Skargi it’s impossible to miss the white crescent-
Archdiocese Museum (Muzeum Archidiecezjalne) largest collections of Polish art. Before the 18th century this shaped structure rising by Most Skargi. Wz górze
D-2, Pl. Katedralny 16, tel. 071 327 11 78. This is a do-it- means almost exclusively religous art: altarpieces, urns for Partyzantów (Partisan Hill) is one of the few remaining
yourself museum: It throws rooms full of religious art at you and relics, busts of saints and the like. Later parts of the collection ancient for tifications that once protected the Old
you’re left to decide for yourself what to make of it. Much of the also include applied arts and quite a few pieces on national Town from invasion. Built between 1594 and 1598,
art is recent, the work of local religious orders, but the largest themes (uprisings and saints figure heavily in Polish history). and originally awarded the name Bastion Sakwowy
room is filled with invaluable medieval works from around Poland. By far the most interesting bit is the 20th-century collection (Saddlebag Bastion), the buildings you see now top-
Diehard art historians will no doubt find something of interest. on the top floor. Innovative installation artists like Magdalena ping the horizon date from the 19th century when the
QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 4/3zł. Abakanowicz and Józef Szajna make this an exciting period area was redeveloped to serve as public recreational
in Polish art. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 09:00 - 16:00, Sat space. A fearsome tower, designed by Berlin architect
Architecture Museum (Muzeum Architektury) C-3, 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 15/10zł. Groups Carl Schmidt was added in 1867, though this was
ul. Bernardyńska 5, tel. 071 344 82 78, www.ma.wroc. over 10 people 5zł per person, Sat free. demolished during WWII to prevent advancing Russian
pl. A unique and thoroughly recommended permanent exhi- troops from using it as a reference point for artillery
bition inside the gorgeous 16th-century former Bernadine Natural History Museum (Muzeum Przyrodnicze) shelling. At the start of the siege of Festung Breslau
monastery, the city’s architecture museum is more of a D-1, ul. Sienkiewicza 21, tel. 071 322 50 44, www. the subterranean bunkers and catacombs were used
record of all that was lost in the city during WWII than a true muzeum-przyrodnicze.uni.wroc.pl. Halls full of massive as HQ by Nazi high command, though they relocated
museum of architecture. Permanent displays include beauti- skeletons, stuffed animal corpses posed on fake landscapes, in March 1945 as the Red Army drew closer. After the
ful examples of stained glass from the 12th century through butterflies pinned to boards - all natural history museums war the hillock was re-christened Partisan Hill and the
to some spectacular Art Nouveau pieces, a breathtaking are gloomy places and this is no exception. The collection old cellars temporarily housed a museum. Today much
collection of tiled ceramic stoves, intricate door handles, was founded as part of the University of Wroclaw in 1811 of the area lies forlorn and forgotten, a once gleaming
Turkish floor tiles and a selection of truly ghastly gargoyles. and moved to its own building in 1906. The entire collection construction littered with smashed bottles and spray
There’s a large model of the city as it was in 1740, which for public display was destroyed in World War II, but has can squiggles, though recent restoration hints at better
clearly shows its status as a fortress surrounded by water, been replaced since and now numbers about three million times. The windswept loneliness that greets visitors
and the occasional temporary to keep the eyes peeled for. animals and half a million plants. You won’t find much English, is ripe for myth and legend, and stories of secret Nazi
QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 12:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. but for bio-buffs it’s the Latin that matters, right? QOpen tunnels and the ghostly shrieks of prisoners tortured
Closed Mon. Admission 7/5zł. Groups over 10 people 3zł per 09:00 - 15:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admis- to death in medieval times abound.
person, Wed free. sion 8/5zł.

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66 WHAT TO SEE WHAT TO SEE 67

Post & Communications Museum (Muzeum Poc-

zty i Telekomunikacji) C-3, ul. Krasińskiego 1, tel.
071 343 67 65, www.muzeum.wroclaw.pl. Housed inside
the 1929, bullet-knarled former Central Post Office, easily
recognisable from the old town thanks to the crown of satellite
dishes on its roof, this is one of the city’s more interesting
museums. Tracing the history of Polish communications from
the beginnings of its postal service in 1558 through to the
present day, the museum houses some fascinating displays
featuring everything from old postmen’s uniforms to stamps
to a bizarre collection of post boxes of the world. With thought-
ful explanations in good English its possible to spend hours
in here. Locked away downstairs from the main exhibition
rooms are a number of mail coaches and a small exhibition
dedicated to Polish television. If you’re a nut for this kind of
thing then be sure to ask somebody to unlock the door and
let you in. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00, Wed 10:00 - 17:00, Sun
11:00 - 16:00. Closed Tue. Admission 5/4zł. Groups over 10
people 3,50zł per person, Sun free.

Racławice Panorama
(Panorama Racławicka)
C-3, ul. Purkyniego 11, tel.
Michał Matuszewski 071 344 23 44, www.pan-
oramaraclawicka.pl. The
Panorama is not just a paint-
Town Hall ing. I t’s a pilgrimage. Th e
140m-long canvas depicts
Town Hall (Muzeum Miejskie Wrocławia) A-3, the legendary General Tadeusz
ul. Sukiennice 14/15, tel. 071 347 16 93, www. Kościuszko’s victory over the Russian forces at Racławice in
mmw.pl. The first thing you’ll probably notice about 1794, and took just over nine months to complete. Peasants
the Town Hall (Ratusz) is that it seems to be patched wielding scythes rush the ranks of Russian hussars in a heroic
together from bits and pieces of a dozen different build- bid for independence. They win the battle, but the uprising
ings. In a way it was. Construction began on it in the comes to nought. Poland won’t be truly self-governing until
end of the 13th century and continued - through all the the early 20th century. The painting was born in a burst of
changing political and artistic forces - for about 250 patriotic fervor in Lwów (now Lviv, Ukraine) a hundred years
years. The Town Hall was the centre of city life up until after the battle. Painters Jan Styka and Wojciech Kossak
wanted to create a monument to Polish national spirit. Their
Japanese Garden (Ogród Japoński) Park Szczyt-
nicki, tel. 0 662 16 92 26, www.wroclaw.pl/ogrod.
Stare Jatki
the early 20th century, housing the Town Council, mer-
chants’ stalls and - most importantly - a beer cellar. The work, displayed in a rotunda built especially for it, was a Found in Park Szcztnicki the Japanese Garden is one of the few
building escaped relatively unscathed after World War II popular - and financial - success. After World War II, the Soviet reminders of Wrocław’s ‘World Expo’ held back in 1913. Origi-
(an estimated 10% was damaged). After reconstruction Union, which had absorbed the city of Lviv, sent the painting nally the work of Count Fritz von Hochberg and Mankichi Arai,
work, it was re-opened as the Museum of City-Dwellers’ to Wrocław. Its subject, however, was a bit too nationalistic for the garden was fully restored in 1996 - thanks in part to the
Art (Muzeum Sztuki Mieszczanskiej). Inside you can see the local Communist authorities, who rejected several bids to generosity of the Japanese Embassy in Warsaw. Waterfalls,
the remarkable Gothic interiors and a collection of silver display it. The current building was completed in 1967, but the trimmed shrubs and two traditional pagodas now all feature in
and other city artefacts. In the Treasury room, look for Panorama itself was not installed for display until 1985. Today this exquisite park. Q Closed. From April Open 09:00 - 19:00.
the new flower-shaped decorative keystones: these school groups and hordes of others file in daily for a 30-minute Admission 3/1,5zł. For children up to 7 free.
replaced Nazi symbols that were installed during World taped lecture on the painting and its history. Headsets with
War II. The most fun part of the Town Hall to explore is the commentary in 12 languages (including English, French, Rus- Zoo I-4, ul. Wróblewskiego 1-5, tel. 071 348 30 24,
elaborate exterior decoration. See if you can find scenes sian, Spanish and German) are available at no extra charge. www.zoo.wroclaw.pl. Founded in 1865 Wrocław Zoo is both
from Aesop’s fables, or grotesque scenes of medieval pub Presentations are held every half hour. Around 1,600 people the biggest and oldest in Poland, and attracts an estimated
life. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed per day turn up to admire the painting, so don’t think you’ll just 500,000 visitors per annum. Briefly closed after the post A. Webber
Mon. Admission 10/7zł, Wed free. be able to walk in straight away - expect queues. Q Open WWI economic crisis, and then again after WWII destruc- Wrocław’s most engaging street can be found connecting
09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. From March Open 09:00 - 17:00 tion, the zoo is now home to around 600 species and over Kiełbaśnicza with Odrzańska, and though most of the
Closed Mon., From April Open 09:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon. 6,000 animals including panthers, lions, cobras, piranhas structures on Stare Jatki date from the 17th and 18th
Admission 20/15zł. and crocodiles. Of note, the elephant house is where three centuries the line of low level buildings were constructed
of the noble beasts were buried following the slaughter of on medieval foundations - some elements from the 13th
Parks & Gardens the siege of Breslau. Although the animals appear well-fed
and reasonably happy, the zoo will do nothing to change any
century are still visible on the south side of the street.
Today the alleyway is home to numerous artists’ studios,
Botanical Garden (Ogród Botaniczny) D-2, ul. Sien- opinions you might have about keeping animals in cages. Q though in past times the principal industry here was
kiewicza 23, tel. 071 322 59 57, www.biol.uni.wroc.pl/ Open 09:00-16:00, From March Open 09:00-17:00, From meat, the wooden stalls packed with the carcasses of
obuwr. The Botanical Garden began as a scientific pursuit, March Open 09:00-18:00. Admission 10/4zł. butchered beasts. The defining feature of Stare Jatki is
but has become a favorite retreat for Wroclaw’s residents. the collection of cast iron farm animals at the start of
The garden was built from 1811 to 1816 on the riverbed the street. Sculpted by Piotr Wieczorek and erected in
where the Odra once flowed around Ostrow Tumski. The the 1990s this ‘Memorial to Slaughtered Animals’ was
grounds include cactus and palm houses, aquariums, a plant All our guides are available for funded by the local government (aside from the cock,
shop and cafe, and a large pond with picturesque bridges. On paid for by the owner of Pod Zielonym Kogutem bar), and
most days your peace and quiet could be marred by noisy free download: serves not only as one of Wrocław’s most photographed
groups of schoolkids. But there are enough nooks and cran-
nies that you should be able to escape. Q Closed. From April www.inyourpocket.com attractions, but also as an obstacle course for party
casualties pouring out of Klub Na Jatkach.
Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 7/5zł.

Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com wroclaw.inyourpocket.com January - April 2009

68 WHAT TO SEE WHAT TO SEE 69

Wherefore Urban Art Thou

Poland has a long, lauded tradi tion of graphic ar t,
which continued to flourish under the constraints
of communism and has exhibi ted an even greater
depth of imagination since. And while anyone on a
Sunday stroll abou t town in PL is likel y to see the
countr y’s proud poster ar t tradi tion in full force
on ci ty walls and signboards, that same creati vi ty
doesn’t seem to have translated off paper onto the
graffiti found marring public spaces. Indeed, most of
the graffi ti found in Poland’s major ci ties is embar-
rassingl y ar tless, failing to graduate beyond gang
signs and slurs or football allegiances. Wi th that
in mind, the curators of Wrocław’s vanguard Awan-
garda Galler y organised the countr y’s first street
ar t exhibi tion in Jul y 2008, invi ting 20 of Europe’s 1757, a food store. The dying days of WWII saw the university The portraits ringing the walls depict the founding fathers of
big gest names in urban ar t to do installations in library turned into a makeshift HQ for the occupying Nazi’s. the University. Four years ago four of them were stolen and
Wrocław. While hal f the exhibi tion – dubbed ‘Ou t of The end of the war saw the German faculty all but exiled, two have yet to be returned. The whole campus presents
Sth’ – took place within the conventional, accepted with the replacement professors arriving from the University dozens of superb photographic opportunities, though the
ar t space of the ci ty centre galler y, the other hal f of Lwow forming the first Polish faculty to teach here. The pick of the bunch has to be the naked swordsman who
took to the streets creating murals and large-scale University is still functioning as an academic building, and proudly stands at the entrance. The work of Hugo Lederer,
ar t pieces wi thin the urban landscape, reclaiming past professors include Alois Alzheimer (the man who gave the splendid sculpture was erected in 1904, and prompted
public space for skilled, provocati ve, purposeful, his name to the disease) and Robert Bunsen (who didn’t invent complaints from parish priests that students would be mor-
you know...ar t. And while the resul ts may not have the Bunsen burner but improved it to such a degree that is ally corrupted by the statue’s naked form. Early grumblings
sparke d a ci t y wid e ar tisti c revolu tion, th ey d o was named in honour of him). But this does little to deter the were countered by the legend that the statue represents
pu t Wrocław on a map of ci ties wi th a street ar t tourists who troop in and out to see the Aula Leopoldina, the an extravagant gambler who squandered all but his sword
consciousness and will hopefull y encourage more grand Baroque ceremonial hall. In true Baroque style, the hall in drunken card games - thus serving as an example to the
th ou gh t ful publi c ren d erin gs, h oldin g your n ex t
profane spray can scrawling to a higher cour t of Places of interest is a virtual explosion of cherubs and swag. The painting on the
ceiling depicts the apotheosis of God’s wisdom - reflecting the
university’s 14,000 students. Town mayor, George Bender,
agreed and the statue has been standing ever since. QOpen
aesthetic accountabili ty. The People’s Hall (Hala Ludowa) I-4, ul. Wystawowa religious and academic mission of this room and the Jesuits. 10:00 - 15:30. Closed Wed. Admission 4-10zł.
1, tel. 071 347 72 00, www.halaludowa.wroc.pl. When it
We had no problem hounding down Ou t of Sth’s was built in 1913, the People’s Hall (then known as Century
highlights and hope anyone else wi th an interest in Hall, Hala Stulecia in Polish) was really something. Max Berg, The Red Baron
urban ar t will do the same, so here’s our homework: the renowned Modernist architect, designed the building to
Two of the event’s most evocative works come from commemorate the 100th anniversary of Napoleon’s defeat Better known as The Red Baron, Manfred von Richthofen is an man flying ace Oswald Boelcke for his
the trendsetting, enigmatic I talian painter known at Leipzig. Today, well, judge the greying concrete structure enduring symbol of daredevil adventure and the cavalier spirit. To squadron Ricthofen soon started to prove
as ‘Blu;’ his sardonic mural of a man sleeping on yourself. The building is primarily used for trade fairs and this day regarded as the ‘ace of all aces’ Richthofen was the top a name for himself, hunting down British
a pillow of money can be found covering the side concerts, but tour buses still dutifully drop bewildered tourists scoring fighter pilot of WWI, and is still seen as a national hero in observation planes and their armed
of a building on the corner of ul. Pomorska and ul. his native Germany. Born in Wrocław, or Breslau as it was then escorts. After his 16th confirmed kill he
at its doors. The acoustics in the 18,000-seat hall are said to
Cybulskiego (A-1). Even easier to find, Blu’s second known, his family moved to their estate in Schweidnitz in 1901 was awarded Germany’s highest military
be excellent, so we recommend saving your trip for a concert (currently Świdnica, Silesia) where the young Richthofen enjoyed honour, the Pour le Merite, and was as-
piece – a mural of a woman wearing a dress made (or a visit from the Pope - the late Pope John Paul II spoke
of locks and bol ts – adorns a back wall of the onl y hunting squirrels, riding horses and other snooty pastimes. signed command of Jasta 11 squadron.
here in May 1997). On the grounds are a massive man-made Following Prussian tradition that the eldest son would follow a While most planes were camouflaged,
buildin g (hard to miss) on Słodowa Island (B-2). pond and covered walkway just perfect for a Sunday stroll. military career he was enrolled into a cadet academy at the age Richthofen insisted on his squadron's
Beside i t is a large figure painted by th e Polish The 96m high needle built in 1948 smacks of a ‘gift from of 11, where by all accounts he was unimpressed by the spartan planes being painted blood red, adding
acti vist and ar tist going by the pseudonym ZBK, the Soviet people.’ Elsewhere, keep your eyes peeled for the quarters and ropey food he had to endure. At the age of 17 he to the legend building around Germany’s
while discreetl y tucked between them is a piece by ‘kindergarten’ building; Eastern Europe’s only building by Le joined a senior cadet academy in Berlin-Lichterfede, where he new war hero. A brilliant tactician, his squadron became known
home-grown sculptor and ar tist Olaf Brzeski. ZBK – Corbusier. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Admission 7/5zł. Groups was to forge a close friendship with Prince Frederick Karl; the as one of the elite units of the war, with an unparalleled hit rate.
who co-au thored Ou t of Sth – has also covered an over 15 people 5zł per person. pair of them often sneaking into Berlin to roam the bars and His 50th kill prompted a personal telegram from the Kaiser, as
entire block of ul. Nabycińska (just off ul. Legnicka, cabarets in search of high times. The young Richthofen failed well as an invitation for a lunch reception, during which he was
E-4) wi th his comic figures, which can also be seen Wroclaw University (Uniwersytet Wrocławski) to excel academically, but was by all accounts a gifted athlete presented with a bronze and marble bust of the Kaiser’s like-
in a satirical composition on nearby Plac Jana Pawła B-2, Pl. Uniwersytecki 1, tel. 071 375 26 18, www.uni. and gymnast, and on graduating from cadet academy elected ness. A key figure in the propaganda campaign he was urged
II (A-4). Plac Jana Pawła II also shares i ts space wroc.pl. Today it takes a little imagination to see the mag- to join the mounted cavalry, specifically the 1st Regiment of the to retire several times, the fear being that his death would be a
with an iconic mural by one of the exhibition’s other Uhlans – a unit with something of a dashing reputation. In the major blow to German morale. Although he was persuaded to
nificent Baroque building that the University once was, but
premier par ticipants – French painter and designer, months leading up to The Great War, Richthofen spent his days visit striking factories in a bid to lift workers spirits he refused
with all that scaffolding it probably won’t be long before it’s re- off-duty riding his horses, twice breaking his collarbone during to abandon his military duties, and finally met his death on April
Remed. Wor th seeking ou t, Remed’s second mural stored to its former glory. Wrocław University was founded by
– perhaps the largest and most capti vating now in steeplechases, while the rest of his family tried to cope with 21, 1918, struck by a single bullet fired while he was flying over
the Jesuits in 1670, after Emperor the fallout of a social scandal that had enveloped the family; enemy line near the Somme River. A definitive study released in
Wrocław – can be seen covering the entire bread th Leopold granted them the land Emma von Richthofen, a distant cousin of Manfred’s had left her 1998 credited Richthofen with 73 kills. To this day controversy
of an apar tment building on ul. P tasia (F-3), look- where the derelict castle of the husband and children to elope with a hitherto unknown writer reigns over the identity of who fired the bullet which killed him,
ing over a bleak, dishevelled marketplace in one of Piast dynasty stood. They built named DH Lawrence. When war broke out Richthofen originally with credit officially attributed to Canadian Captain Roy Brown.
Wrocław’s gri ttier (and by that we mean s#!ttier) the structure that stands today, served as a cavalry scout, spending much of his time idling in Recent evidence also suggests that brain damage sustained
neighbourhoods. Not to be forgotten is the nearby along with the adjacent Church of dugouts frustrated as the war passed him by. Inspired by the in an earlier dogfight may have contributed to his death, with
CRK squat at Jagiellończ yka 10c/d (F-3, see the box the Holy Name of Jesus. Prussia sight of the solitary aircraft that would occasionally buzz over eye witness accounts noting that the Red Baron had strayed
elsewhere in this guide) which – since long before secularised all church property in him he applied to join the Imperial Air Service. His first flight, from several of his own rules of aerial engagement, possibly a
contemporar y ar t galleries star ted endorsing street 1811 and took over administration over the Cologne’s fearsome cathedral filled him with glorious sign of combat fatigue. Originally buried in Amiens, his body was
ar t – still boasts the best graffi ti in Wrocław wi th of the university. Prior to this the ambition, and possibly for the first time ever he applied himself transferred to Germany’s Invaliden Cemetery in 1925, where it
elaborate murals by local heroes MCi ty and ZBK. Austrian-Prussian war in 1741 with a dedicated zeal to his military career. By Autumn 1915 he rested until 1976. Lying just five feet from the Berlin Wall East
That’s called credibili ty, kids. was judged to be ready for his first solo flight, and on Christmas German officals chose to move his remains to the family plot in
saw the campus transformed into
Day he was awarded his pilot's certificate. Headhunted by Ger- Mainz, where he lies to this day.
a hospital, a prison and finally, in

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70 OLD TOWN OSTRÓW TUMSKI 71

While you’re gawping at the medieval beauty of Wrocław’s Playing soul to the Rynek’s heart, first brick building in Poland. Cathedral-building being what it is,
Market Square (Rynek) keep this in mind: in 1945 much of Ostrów Tumski is the gem at the work continued for five more centuries. The centrepiece of the
the square was levelled by the war. Such was the dedication centre of Wrocław’s crown. This, rich, Gothic interior is the altarpiece, painted in Lublin in 1522,
of Wrocław’s ‘pioneers’ - the resettlers from the east - that after all, is where the city began. showing the Virgin Mary falling asleep. The Cathedral suffered
the remarkable ensemble you see today was faithfully rebuilt, During the latter part of the ninth massive damage in WWII, with traces of bullet holes still visible,
though not before many of the original bricks had been sent century what is now known as Os- and has been meticulously rebuilt since. Of interest, to some at
to help with the post-war Warsaw rebuilding effort. Such was trów Tumski (the name means Ca- least, the cathedral houses the largest organ in Poland, which
the attention to detail tourists can now even admire a replica thedral Island in Polish) was settled prior to the war was also the largest in the world. But the real
of the stone pillory (south east of the town hall) used to flog by a Slavic tribe, the Śleżanie, who highlight of the Cathedral is the panoramic view from its tower.
people from 1492 to way into the 18th century. Topped with - not without reason - considered An elevator takes you to the top of the Cathedral’s tower, which
the figure of a hangman the column was originally the work of the island impregnable. The first offers a wonderful view of the city and surrounding countryside.
Briccius Gauske and it was here that prostitutes and thieves Silesian bishopric was built on There’s also a small exhibition at the top of the tower featuring
were lashed. Indeed, being on the wrong side of the law in the island in 1000, and the town various objects brought back from missions.
Wrocław was a dangerous occupation. Other punishments flourished until its almost total de-
meted out on this spot included the severing of hands, ears struction during the Tatar invasions © Milosz To the right of the cathedral is the stunning Archdiocese
and noses, all of which would be enthusiastically lapped up of the 1240s. After that date the town developed on the other Museum (D-2, Pl. Katedralny 16), a do-it-yourself museum
by the watching crowds. Wrocław’s principal gallows was addresses, the buildings originally had symbols from which side of the Odra river, and Ostrów Tumski became a place of that throws rooms full of religious art at you and you’re left
positioned outside the house on Rynek 19, the condemned they took their names. Since the symbol was generally placed almost exclusively royal - the Piast Dynasty built a castle here to decide for yourself what to make of it. Much of the art is
accompanied on their final walk by the doleful dong of the above the door, the buildings would be called, for example, in the 1260s - and religious significance. With a few exceptions recent - the work of local religious orders, but the largest room
‘the sinners bell’ once found in St Mary Magdalene’s Church. Under the Golden Eagle (Pod Złotym Orłem, Rynek 4). Most of it remains primarily a place of worship and reflection to this day; is filled with invaluable medieval works from around Poland.
According to local legend the artisan who cast the bell killed these are still visible and have given their name to whatever there are few shops, dwellings, cafes and restaurants, and the Art historians will no doubt find plenty of interest.
his apprentice in a blind fury. Sentenced to hang his last restaurant or bar has moved in. The majority come steeped in Wrocław Archdiocese occupies almost all of the beautifully
request was to walk to his death to the sound of his bell, and legend and history, with the building at number 7 once serving maintained classical buildings you will see. Four other churches of note are located in the area: the 15th cen-
from there the tradition stuck. Further on the south side of the as an inn for visiting regents and nabobs. Under the Golden tury Church of Sts. Peter and Paul (C-2; ul. Katedralna); the Church
Rynek stands a bizarre looking brown bear by the town hall. Dog (Pod Złotym Psem, Rynek 41), meanwhile, is one of the The first thing the modern visitor notices however about of St. Bartholemew and the Holy Cross (C-2, Plac Kościelny). This
Rub his tongue for luck before continuing down to the statue most haunted houses in Wrocław. The sounds of carpentry Ostrów Tumski is that, though accessed from central Wrocław was originally two separate churches, one of which was Greek-
of Count Aleksander Fredro. A legendary comedy writer, his can allegedly be heard on the stroke of midnight, while another by bridge, it is not actually an island. It was until the 19th Catholic, or Uniate. On ul. Idziego, St. Giles Church (C-2) was the
statue was brought from Lvov in 1956, replacing the statue tale claims that Frederick the Great was once staying in the century, but persistent flooding led town planners to fill in one only Wrocław church to survive the Tatars, while the somewhat
that had previously occupied the space up until the end of residence, when all of a sudden a demonic force snatched his of the Odra’s tributaries in 1810 (not that that has prevented irregularly shaped St. Martin’s Church (C-2, ul. Św. Marcina) is all
the war - that of Kaiser Wilhelm. Formerly the home of the feather quilled pen and hurled him across the room. It’s not the further flooding). that remains of the Piast dynasty’s 13th-century royal castle, which
Wrocław fish market, from 1545 until 1745 it was also the only house where you’ll find scary goings-on. The house on the once stood on the island. St. Martin’s too, however, was largely
site of ‘the madman’s shed’ - a cage where drunks and other corner of the Rynek and ul. Mikołaja is allegedly haunted by a Though there is much to see on Ostrów Tumski perhaps the real rebuilt in the 15th and 20th centuries. Before WWII the church was
miscreants would be incarcerated. City records reveal those particularly nasty chap who was possessed by a goblin living joy of the place is its other-worldly feel. It is a million miles from the a centre of Polish culture in a primarily German city. Poles gathered
imprisoned ranged from a cross-dressing woman to a pair of in the bell tower of St Elizabeth’s Church. Motivated by greed bustle of Rynek, with both ul. Katedralna and ul. Idziego providing here to hear sermons and sing hymns in their own language. The
compulsive gamblers caught engrossed in a card game during he murdered his grandmother for the sake of her fortune. cobbled reminders of the past. Idzeigo especially, though it lacks last Polish mass under Nazi oppression was held here in 1939. A
a church sermon. The square and much of the grid of streets Adjacent to the Market Square is Plac Solny, which is almost the in-your-face sights of Katedralna, is a particularly gorgeous plaque outside reads in part, “We are Poles... A Pole is a brother
around it was laid out by city planners in 1241. It was then as impressive architecturally, especially with its elaborate street, still lit today by original gas lamps and providing the per- to a Pole... Poland is our mother, we cannot speak badly of our
and remains even now one of the largest squares of its kind reliefs and figurines bursting from the facades. Formerly fect frame for a picturesque, romantic evening stroll. mother.” Outside St. Martin’s stands a massive monument to
in Europe. Its centre is dominated by the Gothic Town Hall home to a bazaar specializing in salt, leather and honey the Pope John Paul II, placed here in 1986.
and an ensemble of buildings that replaced the original trad- centre is now a 24 hour flower market - which is good news But we are getting ahead of ourselves. A visit to this lovely,
ing stalls. Ringing the Town Hall are buildings whose facades for budding romeos, looking to delight any beauties they may peaceful part of Wrocław rightly begins at Most Piaskowy To complete a thorough visit to the island you should not
range from Gothic to Art Nouveau (Rynek 6) - with only a little have seduced on the dance floors of Wrocław. But Plac Solny (Sand Bridge). This is the oldest bridge in Wrocław, built in miss the charming Botanical Gardens (D-2, ul. Sienkiewicza
bit of modern thrown in for comparison’s sake: for instance, has also played a darker role in Wrocław’s past. It was from 1861 and an engineering marvel, if no great shakes on the 23). The gardens began life as a scientific pursuit, but have
that grey ten-storey office building at Rynek 11. Completed the windows of a house here that the John of Capistrano architectural front. The original bridge, built back in the 11th become a favourite retreat for Wrocław’s residents. The
in 1931 the structure was designed by Heinrich Rump and conducted fire and brimstone sermons in 1453. Holding a century, was part of the ancient trade route - the Amber garden was built from 1811 to 1816 on the riverbed where
is a glimpse at what the market square might have looked human skull in one hand, his diatribes and rants inspired his Road, which led from the Baltic Sea to Vienna, and thence to the Odra once flowed around Ostrów Tumski. The grounds
like had a ludicrous project to modernize the historic centre captivated flock to throw cards and mirrors into a bonfire. Venice. As you walk along ul. Jadwigii you will pass the Russian include cactus and palm houses, aquariums, a plant shop and
ever come to fruition. It was the idea of Max Berg, creator of Unfortunately the fiery antics didn’t stop there. It was partly Orthodox Church of Sts. Cyril and Methodius, the Baroque and cafe, and a large pond with picturesque bridges.
Hala Ludowa, to demolish the buildings surrounding the town under John’s instigation that a panel of city chiefs ordered sadly graffiti-strewn University Library, and the Gothic Church
hall, replacing them with 20 storey concrete towers. After the arrest of all Jews. They were given a stark choice: convert of the Blessed Virgin on the Sand, famous for its 16th century Finally, completionists might want to view the scale model of
much deliberation city authorities abandoned the plan, in to Christianity, or face death at the stake. On a lighter note, icon of the Virgin Mary in the northern nave. From here the the Ostrów Tumski’s earliest incarnation in the Archaeologi-
the process saving the Wrocław loved by all today. In lieu of the narrow passageway leading from Solny to ul. Szajnochy iron, 1890-built Most Tumski (Tumski Bridge) leads you across cal Museum.
should not be missed. It was the building at Szajnochy 10 to the oldest part of the city; look out for the statues of St.
that once housed Goethe during a fleeting trip to Wrocław Jadwiga (Hedwig), Silesia’s patron saint, and John the Baptist,
in 1790, while its environs were once home to the town’s Wrocław’s patron, at the head of the bridge.
Jewish population. Although much of Wrocław’s historic cen-
tre was subject to meticulous renovation after the war the Ul. Katedralna itself, which leads to the Cathedral, is the
millhouses and wooden cottages that once lined the canal same path that the original inhabitants of the island walked.
were never rebuilt, and nowadays this belt of land remains a Indeed, if you poke around the stones near the cathedral, you
quiet, meditative spot in the centre of the city. Delving back should be able to see the outlines of some of the buildings
into the heart of the historic centre the numerous side streets that used to stand on the island.
that sprout off ul. Kiełbaśniczna are well worth exploring, most
notably Stare Jatki; formerly filled with rows of butchers stalls, The Cathedral of St. John the Baptist (D-2, Pl. Katedralny 18)
this cobbled alleyway features a collection of cast-iron farm remains a living, working church. As a visitor you will undoubtedly
animals at its beginning in reference to its past, though today encounter queues of people waiting patiently for the confession-
its principal industry lies in selling local artwork to those with als and others in quiet worship. The elegant double-spired Gothic
plenty of cash at their disposal. Close by ghouls and artsy building stands like a sentinal at the end of ul. Katedralna, its
types will enjoy interrupting a tour of the old town by drinking elaborate portal one of the most valuable medieval artefacts in
in the beatnik environs of Klub Pracoffnia (B-2, ul. Więzienna Wrocław. What we see today is in fact the fourth church to be
6), once home to a medieval prison. built on this site. When construction began in 1244, this was the © Macie 3k

Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com wroclaw.inyourpocket.com January - April 2009

72 FESTUNG BRESLAU FESTUNG BRESLAU 73

One of the biggest events to ever rock Wrocław, the epic

80 day siege of 1945 cost tens of thousands of lives, and Aftermath
left the town a smouldering heap of ruins. One of the most For the survivors the end of war unleashed a new enemy.
savage sieges in modern history, the ‘Battle for Breslau’ It’s estimated that approximately two million German
rates as one of the biggest human tragedies of WWII. women were raped by Red Army soldiers, and Breslau
proved no exception as marauding packs of drunk troops
Prelude sought to celebrate victory. With all hospitals destroyed,
and the city waterworks a pile of ruins, epidemics raged
Prior to WWII Wrocław, or Breslau as it was then known, was unchecked as the city descended further into a hellish
something of a model nazi city, with a staggering 200,000 chaos. Historical figures suggest that in total the battle for
of its citizens voting for Hitler’s NSDAP party in the 1933 Breslau cost the lives of 170,000 civilians, 6,000 German
elections. From that moment on the Nazis cemented their troops, and 7,000 Russian. About 70% of the city lay in
grip on the city launching a campaign of terror, and eventually total ruin (about 75% directly attributed to Nazi efforts to
murder, against Jews and numerous other enemies of the fortify the city), 10km of sewers had been dynamited and
state. Synagogues were burnt to the ground on Kristallnacht, nearly 70% of electricity cut off. Of the 30,000 registered
November 9, 1938, and the guillotine at Kleczkowska prison buildings in Wrocław, 21,600 sustained damage, with an
saw plenty of action; the decapitated bodies of political A. Webber estimated 18 million cubic metres of smashed rubble
prisoners donated to Wrocław’s medical schools. Yet in spite covering the city - the removal of this war debris was to
of this sinister background and strict rationing the denizens temperatures sinking to -15 celsius an estimated 100,000 last until the 1960s. Although several bunkers still lie scat-
of wartime Wrocław fared better than their compatriots people froze to death during this ill-fated evacuation, with tered around the city (Park Zachodni, Park Południowy etc)
elsewhere in the Reich. Out of range from allied air raids other reports of children trampled to death in the chaos there is no official memorial as such for the thousands of
citizens were spared the aerial nightmare of British carpet that ensued at the train station. Wrocław was in a state of innocent victims of war. Two Soviet cemeteries stand in
bombings, and the city came to be considered something of full-blown panic. Defeatism was punished by death and on the suburbs: one for officers on ul. Karkonoska, and one for
a safe haven, it’s population swelling to over a million people January 28 the deputy mayor, Dr Wolfgang Spielhagen, was the rank and file on Skowronia Góra. Both find themselves
towards the end of the conflict. executed in the main square for this very reason. Execution in state of disrepair, littered with broken glass and graffiti.
squads roamed the city, murdering pessimists, looters and A German military cemetery and Garden of Peace can be
But by the second half of 1944 the doomsday reality of anyone found shirking their duty to the fatherland. Finally, fol- found 15 kilometres from Wrocław, the final resting place
war started to dawn on the local population. Truckloads of lowing a rapid advance, the advancing Soviets encircled the of approximately 18,000 soldiers.
mangled German wounded flooded the hospitals, and with city on February 15, 1945. Wrocław’s fate was sealed.
the Red Army creeping closer the rumble of artillery could be Declared a part of Poland under the terms of the Yalta A. Webber
heard in the distance. On August 24 the city was declared a
closed stronghold, Festung Breslau, and the citizens braced Siege agreement the new rulers of Wrocław arrived three days
after the peace deal. A new chapter in Wrocław’s history the source of everything from railway wagons loaded with
themselves for the inevitable bloodbath that was come. On February 16, 1945 months of waiting finally came to an was about to be written. Poles from the east flocked to bricks, to priceless paintings dating from the 17th century.
General Johann Krause was appointed commander, and set end. The Red Army launched a ferocious attack on the city, repopulate Wrocław, swayed by rumours of jobs, wealth and Black market trading thrived, and the money that was flying
about the daunting task of turning a picturebook city into a throwing hundreds of tanks into the fray. But hopes for a undamaged townhouses. Over ten per cent of these new round led to a slew of bars and ballrooms opening, many with
fortress. Two defensive rings were constructed around the quick victory proved optimistic, and the battle soon turned settlers hailed from Lvov, and this mass migration was to colourful names: Kiosk Pod Bombą (Kiosk under the Bomb)
city - with some fortifications 20km outside the centre - sup- into a brutal slaughter, with both sides sustaining heavy irrevocably change Wrocław’s demographic makeup. Others and Wstąp Kolego na Jednego (Drop in for one glass, mate)
plies stockpiled and troops mobilised. A garrison of some casualties. In the first three days alone the Soviets lost hailed from impoverished villages, with their peasant mental- being a couple of note.
80,000 men was hurriedly raised in what was projected to well over 70 tanks as fighting descended into savage street ity frequently blamed for harming surviving city structures:
become the key defensive element on ‘The Eastern Wall’. In fighting. In his excellent book, Microcosm, author Norman ‘heaps of coal in a bathtub, hens in an expensive piano and The end of the war also signalled an active campaign to de-
reality however the troops were a chaotic rabble consisting Davies suggests that as a last resort measure chemical a pig kept on the fourth floor of an apartment were not rare Germanize the city. Newspapers launched competitions to
of Hitler Youth, WWI veterans, police officers and retreating weapons produced in Silesia were used to repel Soviet exceptions’, so writes Beata Maciejewska in her excellent eliminate all traces of Wrocław’s German heritage with monu-
regiments. This mixed bag of men and boys were ludicrously troops in the early stages of combat, though this theory is book ‘Wrocław: history of the city’. But farm animals eating ments and street signs all falling victim to this iconoclastic
ill-equipped to face the full force of the looming Soviet fury. largely open to debate. Civilians and slave labour were called sofas were the least of the cities worries. Wrocław was on fury. By the end of 1945 as many as 300,000 Germans were
As countdown to the impending siege began the governor up to build fortifications, and vast stretches of the city were the brink of anarchy, with armed gangs of Russians, Germans still in the city, many of whom had been temporarily relocated
of the region, Gauleiter Karl Hanke, noted he only had two demolished so bricks could be used to strengthen defences. and Poles roaming the streets at night, looting, shooting from Poznań, and this was a pressing concern for the Polish
tanks at his disposal, and weaponry that was either outdated In a growing sign of desperation even the University Library and boozing. Fortunes were made from theft, with most authorities. Forced transports began in July, and by January
or captured from previous campaigns in Poland, Russia and found itself stripped of thousands of books, all destined for goods ending up in the open air bazaar that had sprung up 1948 Wrocław was officially declared to be free of German
Yugoslavia. Even so, Hanke stubbornly refused to order an the barricades. In March the residential area between the on Pl. Grunwaldzki; Maciejewska’s research reveals this was habitants (there were, in fact, still 3,000 in the city, essentially
evacuation of civilians until January 19, 1945. By this time Szczytnicki and Grunwaldzki bridges was levelled in order to kept on to do jobs Poles were unqualified for).
the majority of transport links had been smashed by Soviet build an improvised airstrip that would, in theory, be Breslau’s
shelling, forcing many evacuees to leave the city on foot. With connection to the outside world. The enormous project was Further reading Wrocław was chosen to host the Exhibition of Recovered
a disaster. With rations only issued to those working civilians Territories, a propaganda stunt aimed at highlighting the
were forced to work under fierce fire, and as a result over Microcosm; glories of Polish socialism. Attracting over 1.5 million visitors
13,000 died when the Soviets shelled the area. But worse portrait of a Central European city the exhibition finally closed in 1948, and with that investment
was to come. April 1 saw the Soviets launch a new offensive Norman Davies & Roger Moorehouse and national interest in Wrocław died. For the next few years
to seize the city. A heavy bombardment saw much of the 2002, the city was to become a feeder city for Warsaw, with price-
city engulfed in flames, and hostilities were resumed once ISBN 0-224-06243-3, approx. 100zł. less works of art ferried to the capital. In 1949 approximately
more. With the noose tightening, Nazi HQ relocated from A cracking book by Davies, the guru of Polish history 200,000 bricks were sent daily up to Warsaw, with several
the bunker on Partisan Hill to the university library, while writing. Taking Wrocław as an example of a typical Cen- undamaged buildings falling victim to the demolition teams
fighting continued to rage in the sewers and houses on the tral European city, Davies manages to place its local hellbent on rebuilding the Polish capital. Wrocław’s recovery
fringes of the city. Even with the end in sight, the Nazis fought history in the fascinating whirlwind of external events, was still a long way away.
bitterly to the last man, crushing an ill-fated uprising by the and Wrocław has certainly had many of those. Starting
remaining civilians. A full five days after the Battle for Berlin with a horrific description of the annihilation of Fortress
had ended, Breslau finally capitulated on May 6, the peace Breslau in the prologue, the well-illustrated book deals
deal signed at the villa on ul. Rapackiego 14. The day before
Karl Hanke, the very man who had ordered the execution of
with the city that changed ownership, name and popu-
lation quite a few times from prehistory, via Bohemia,
Full contents online:
anyone caught fleeing the city, escaped the city in a plane
apparently bound for the Czech Republic. What became of
Habsburg, Prussia, Germany and Poland. If you read one www.inyourpocket.com
book about Wrocław, make it this one.
A. Webber him remains a mystery.

Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com wroclaw.inyourpocket.com January - April 2009

74 GETTING AROUND GETTING AROUND 75

Car Rental Joka B-5, ul. Kościuszki

34 (Pałacyk), tel. 0 601
By car vast majority of which are unlit at night. These are often used
as pavements by local people who add to the Russian roulette
54 53 69, www.joka.com. Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, by venturing out at night wearing their darkest clothing. Add
Avis A-5, ul. Piłsudskiego a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure in the odd drunk on a bike and these hard shoulders become
49/57, tel. 071 372 35 67, pl. A wide range of cars from
the baby Citroen C1 to the spacious Mercedes E220 CDi of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road a very real problem when facing a set of headlights bearing
www.avis.pl. Avis also has a surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different down on your vehicle.
desk at the airport but you must arrange in advance to station wagon. All cars are equipped with power assisted
steering. Satellite navgation systems are also available. traffic and, most of all, drivers who have no consideration For those brave enough to venture out the following informa-
pick up or drop off a car there. Also on ul. Skarżyńskiego for anybody else result in the common sight of mangled tion should be noted. Poland has strong drink-driving laws:
36 (Airport). QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Special rates offered to those who order through the
Joka website. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. wreckages of cars around the country. Yes, the crosses 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/alcohol limit, so forget about
Closed Sun. Sun Open on request. you see beside roadsides are there to mark fatal crashes. having even a single beer - this did nothing to deter the prat
Closed Sun. Sun Open on request.
Police seem unwilling to control irresponsible driving, and who was arrested outside Warsaw in September with a blood/
Budget ul. Skarżyńskiego 36 (Airport), tel. 071 358 12 don’t be surprised to see cars shooting through red lights, alcohol level of 9.5‰ (approximately 24 pints). You can use
92, www.budget.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, cutting each other up and staking a claim for the Formula your home driving license or an international driving permit for
Sun. Sat, Sun Open on request. Micar ul. Kamieńskiego 12, tel. 071 325 19 49, www. 1 championship. While we do not advise against driving in six months from the entry date on your passport. Carry your
micar.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Poland, we do wish to make a number of points clear to license and passport at all times if you’re driving.
Europcar ul. Sun. Sun Open on request. the foreign driver. The speed limit is 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between
Skarżyńskiego 36 (Air- The road quality issue is being addressed with EU directives 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 110km/
port), tel. 071 358 12
91, www.europcar.pl. Europcar is one of the biggest
By bus and funding but the size of the country’s road network as
well as its condition means that it’ll be years till improve-
hr on dual carriageways and 130km/hr on motorways. All
cars are required to carry a red warning triangle, first aid
car rental companies offering many rental options (both The bus station is located directly behind the train station. ments will take effect. In fact the issue of the condition of kit, replacement bulbs and a national identity sticker. A new
short and long term) that will suit all needs (8 different Buy international (międzynarodowe) tickets at platform No4 the road and rail networks are being cited by many experts law was introduced in April 2007 making it compulsory to
categories of cars are available; Europcar is present at (or from a company below). Each window has its own complex as being a serious handicap to the development of the have headlights switched on at all times. Car related crime
all Polish airports and many other convenient locations). set of opening hours, but at least one is open from 05:30 to Polish economy. is high and drivers should make use of guarded car parks
Europcar creates flexible driving solutions to meet your 21:00. As at the train station, you should not risk your dignity For someone taking to the road today the following warnings where possible.
individual mobility needs. In doing so we deliver excellence by asking for information at a ticket window (without some should be taken into account. Firstly when driving outside of If you really feeling at home in Wrocław, you could do as the
in services and benefits that are tailored to fulfil your Polish, this will be futile anyway). Arriving in Wrocław on a bus built-up areas you will typically find yourself sharing a single locals do: just park your car wherever it suits your fancy. We’ve
specific requirements QOpen 09:00 - 23:30. should only be considered if there are no other options avail- lane road with anything from a sports car convertible to an seen rows of cars on (disused) tram tracks. Of course we’ve
able. The bus station is grim, dirty, and acts as the city’s unof- old bloke in charge of a horse and cart. Throw in the huge also seen more then one car with a clamp on its tyre. If you
ficial day care centre for drunks and lunatics. Facilities include fleet of lorries that traverse Poland and you will commonly want to do it right, look for a giant “P” for parking. Tickets are
Germaz ul. Strzegomska 139 (Fabryczna), tel. 071 349 toilets (Open 06:00 - 22:00, 1zł), an ATM just outside the main find yourself in a situation where traffic is blocked behind said available from parking meters and those wishing to park up
02 07, www.germazrent.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat entrance and currency exchange (Open 08:00 - 20:00) inside lorries/horse/tractor. This results in frustrated/impatient in the centre will be charged 3zł for the first hour, 3.15zł for
08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Sun Open on request. the main station building. You have been warned. drivers overtaking each other at high speed and then braking the second hour and 3.30zł for the third. Thereafter you’ll be
Hertz ul. Skarżyńskiego 36 (Airport), tel. 071 353 77 sharply to avoid oncoming traffic. Be warned and keep a safe forking out 3 zeds an hour. Out of the centre these charges
43, www.hertz.com.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 Wrocław Główny Bus Station (Dworzec Centralny distance between you and the vehicle in front. sink to 2zł for the first hour, 2.10zł the second, and 2.20zł for
- 12:30, Sun 08:00 - 16:00. PKS) B-6, ul. Sucha 1/11, tel. 0 300 30 01 22. Secondly beware of the hard shoulders of these roads, the the third. After that it’s 2zł per hour.

Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com wroclaw.inyourpocket.com January - April 2009

76 GETTING AROUND GETTING AROUND 77

Train station Public Transport Train smarts

Wrocław public transport system is easy to use and fairly
Amateur sociologists could do clothes and pornography. Some- extensive, with 120 bus lines and 23 tram lines. You`ll rarely The Polish rail network is generally in decent shape even if
worse than spending time at a what surprisingly the station is need trams or buses to get around Old Town, but many the rolling stock is by and large something you may have
Polish train station, most of which best known for its connection to affordable hotels and some sights are located outside the travelled on in Italy some years ago. Certainly better than
serve as impromptu social clubs Polish film. It was on platform 3 centre. Major hubs for trams and buses include the main train Britain’s railways; you’ll find most trains run on time, are
for tramps, junkies and people that cult actor Zbigniew Cybulski station (B-6), Plac Dominikański (C-3), and Plac Jana Pawła cheap, and don’t crash. Travelling times are generally pretty
who talk to windows. Wrocław is (aka The Polish James Dean) II (E-4). Buses and trams run roughly from 05:00 to 01:00. slow even on express and Intercity trains with limited high-
no different, and some of its vile died while trying to jump onto Buy tickets from any kiosk marked “Ruch” and most marked speed sections of track throughout the country. That is
corners are best left untouched. a moving train bound for War- “Prasa” (press) for 2.40zł. Look for a sign saying “Bilety MPK”. being remedied but in turn this is causing increased travelling
But unlike many of the faceless saw. A commemorative plaque Most shops now have automatic ticket machines, but must times on many lines. Tickets are by western standards very
concrete carbuncles that serve was unveiled here by director have exact change to use them. Press button No1 for full-price cheap with a first -class ticket to Krakow from Warsaw for
Polish travellers the train station Andrzej Wajda on January 8, ticket, No 2 for a student ticket, then one ticket at a time instance setting you back about 130zl (about €35).
at Wrocław boasts a flamboyant 1997, to coincide with the 30th buy pressing the button again before inserting your coins.
Neo Gothic exterior and a colour- anniversary of the event. The Tickets are valid for both tram and bus. You can also buy a The state-owned Polish rail network PKP run several types
ful history. Designed by Wilhelm station is also famous for its ticket from the driver though that often depends on both his of train. Intercity (also known as Eurocity or just IC) trains
Grapów and built between 1855 now defunct cinema – allegedly mood and if you can gain his attention. Night buses (nocne) are the fastest, newest and most expensive of the lot,
and 1857 the structure features the last train station cinema in cost 2.80zł. Students (including ISIC holders) pay just half of with first and second class compartments holding up to
turrets and crenellations, and at Europe. Operating from 1947 all these prices. Remember to punch your ticket once inside six people. New rolling stock is appearing with open car-
the time of completion was the until February 2007, the tiny Kino the tram or bus. You can punch any combination of tickets riages and 220v AV sockets. Ekepress are supposed to
biggest station in Europe. When Dworcowe was open round-the- that adds up to the right amount. If the conductor catches be older and slower and pack more people into less space
it first opened for business it was A. Webber clock, attracting an estimated than the former, but this distinction is slowly disappearing
you without a properly punched ticket, you’ll owe the city of
well separated from the rest of urban Wrocław, flanked by seven million viewers (among them Cybulski) during its Wroclaw 100zł if you pay within a week, or 120zł if you need as both tracks and rolling stock get older. Use either of
a lake and a Jewish cemetery (today the site of a tennis life span. By 2002 declining audience figures led to the longer than seven days to raise the fine. the above for long-distance journeys. Both come with
court). As the city grew so did the need for more trains, proprietors trying to reverse their dwindling fortunes by Schedules posted at each stop tend to be right on the money. dining carriages, though be warned, anyone falling asleep
and by 1904 five new platforms had been added. This broadcasting erotica, though even this failed to capture W dni robocze means Monday through Friday and w dni wolne will incur the full wrath of the steward. Smokers should
era marked a golden age for the city, though calamity was custom. A last gasp attempt to save the cinema was means Saturday and Sunday. not make the mistake of booking a seat in a smoking
never far away – the flood of 1903 devastated the area, made in 2005, when in a sudden U-turn the owners opted compartment - you will die within minutes. Cheapskates
with surviving postcards depicting people rowing boats for an edgy, alternative repertoire showing underground looking to cut costs should opt for the markedly cheaper
past the station. During WWII air raid shelters were built movies produced by students of the Łódź Film School. Taxis Tanie Linie Kolejowe (TLK), Pospieszny (posp) or Osobowy
underneath the car park in the front, with the surviving Their plan B terminated in bankruptcy, and the cinema Rogue taxis are still a problem in Wrocław especially around (os.) trains; you will pay buttons for the privilege, but your
catacombs today utilized to serve as shops selling cheap closed two months shy of its 60 th birthday. the train station. Make sure that your cab has a sign on the journey is guaranteed to try your good humour.
roof marked with the name of the company rather than just
a simple ‘taxi’ sign, as well as a rate card in the window. With the exception of pocaig osobowy trains, ticket
prices include a seperate seat reservation charge. More
Airline Offices from both newsagents and the post office. To connect to a
Once inside make sure the driver turns on the metre and
you should be fine. Under Polish law the driver should now information on train times and prices check the very
Cimber Air ul. Skarżyńskiego 36 (Airport), tel. 071 Polish mobile network you’ll need a SIMlock free mobile - have a cash register in the cab and is obliged to give you a useful www.pkp.pl which has an English option. There
358 12 01, www.cimber.dk. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. from there purchase pre-paid cards from Relay kiosks and printed receipt for your fare. In some instances it is possible is the functionality to book tickets online once you have
Closed Sat, Sun. the post office. to pay by credit card but do ask before hand. On the whole registered (https://bilet.intercity.pl/irez/index.jsp) but
LOT ul. Skarżyńskiego 36 (Airport), tel. 022 95 72, you’ll pay an initial 6zł fee, before being charged from 2.40- you will need the help of a Polish speaker t present. This
www.lot.com. Copernicus Airpor t Wrocław (Por t Lotniczy 4.50zł per kilometre. Note that after 22:00 you’ll be paying option allows you to book a ticket and seat in one without
Wrocław im. Mikołaja Kopernika) ul. Skarżyńskiego a premium night tariff. Prices also rise at weekends and if the hassle of queuing at the station.
By plane 36, tel. 071 358 13 81, www.airport.wroclaw.pl. traveling outside the city limits.
If you find yourself faced with long queues in the train
Asco Taxi , tel. 071 94 55. station then you’ll be pleased to hear you can hop on the
Nicolaus Copernicus Airport Wrocław (Port Lotniczy im.
Mikołaja Kopernika we Wrocławiu) is located about 13 km By train Lux Radio Taxi , tel. 071 96 23, www.luxradiotaxi. desired train and buy a ticket direct from the conductor.
north-west of the centre. Although there is currently no tourist Marvellous vaulted ceilings and interesting smells await those pl. You’ll pay a small surcharge for this (approx 8zł), and
information point airline and flight info is available on tel. 071 arriving in Wrocław by train. Facilities include modern toilets credit cards are now accepted. Travellers are expected
358 13 81. To find a fully updated flight schedule see www. for 2zł, ATMs and currency exchange. A few luggage lockers to greet others in their compartment with a curt ‘dzien
MPT Radio Taxi, tel. 71 dobry’, and it is taken as given that a male passengers
airport.wroclaw.pl/en/rozklad.php. can be found opposite the ticket windows. Larger bags can 91 91, w w w.919.com.pl.
Take bus No 406 from ul. Dworcowa, abort a hundred meters be left just to the left of the lockers. Plan ahead when buy- will help females or the elderly with any heavy baggage.
Wrocław’s biggest and longest
north of the train station. The bus runs twice an hour and ing your train tickets: there may be 20 ticket windows, but standing taxi firm, with a clean and modern fleet of cars and
takes about 20 minutes. At night use bus number 249. Tick- the queues can still be miles long. Buy international tickets Travelling by train should hold no fear, though you may have
who also offer 6- and 8-seater vehicles by prior booking.
ets cost 2.40zł and 2.80zł respectively. Tickets are available (międzynarodowej) at the last window. Buy tickets for journeys the misfortune of sharing a compartment with a woman
Look out for vehicles marked with 9191 on the side.
from kiosks, vending machines at the bus stop and also from under 100 km at windows No 3-16. All others sell tickets for who has no qualms with silencing errant children with a
the driver. The bus stop is located right outside the main trips within Poland (krajowej). There’s a special window for thump to the head. Or even worse, sharing a compartment
entrance to the airport. that - the one with the longest queue, of course. Departures Taxi Blues , tel. 071 96 61. with perky army discharges. Upgrading to first class for a
(odjazdy) are listed on yellow timetables and arrivals (przy- Taxi Plus , tel. 0 601 700 753. cursory fee is usually enough to avoid these pitfalls.
A taxi too and from town will take about ten minutes and cost jazdy) on the white ones. Check the large electronic board
from 40 -45zł and you’ll find plenty to choose from stationed for the number of the platform (peron). Finally most stations throughout the country are ap-
outside the entrance. There’s plenty of guarded parking at Wrocław Główny Train Station (Dworzec Główny palling lacking in signs denoting the station name and
the airport. Each half an hour for the first two will cost 3zł, with PKP) B-6, Al. Piłsudskiego 105, tel. 071 717 16 74, it’s surprisingly easy to miss your stop. Communicating
every hour after costing 4zł. If you plan on parking for 24hrs www.pkp.pl. Have your say! with your fellow passengers can save a lot of time and
expect to pay 50zł, 42zł for a second day and 32zł for a third. frustration.
Write your own reviews at
After that each extra day will set you back 15zł.
On arrival you’ll find three ATMs (bankomats) as well as two Travel agents Arrivals Przyjazdy
currency exchange offices, one of which is open from 06:00 Itaka B-5, ul. Kołłątaja 15, tel. 071 343 50 00, www. wroclaw.inyourpocket.com Departures Odjazdy
(06:30 on weekends and Monday’s) until 22:15. Phone itaka.pl. Great last-minute fares. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Platform Peron
booths are scattered around and phone cards are available Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com wroclaw.inyourpocket.com January - April 2009

78 GETTING AROUND MAIL & PHONES 79

Airlines Laptop login Polish city codes

Unless stated otherwise the following offices are based CSA pl. Zawiszy 1 (Jan III Sobieski Hotel), tel. 659 67 Wireless Gdańsk 58 Poznań 61
in Warsaw. Phone numbers listed are central call centres 99/668 74 71, www.csa.cz. Both free and paid-for wireless hotspots continue to Katowice 32 Rzeszów 17
and all should have English-speaking staff. For full local easyJet www.easyjet.com. multiply around Poland, providing fast and convenient Kraków 12 Szczecin 97
flight schedule visit www.airport. wroclaw.pl. European Air Express tel. 071 358 11 00, www. internet access to anyone with a laptop or wireless- Łódź 42 Warsaw 22
Adria www.adria-airways.com. eae.aero. enabled mobile device. This guide provides a wireless Lublin 81 Wrocław 71
Aer Lingus tel. 022 626 84 02, www.aerlingus.com. Eurowings ul. Skarżyńskiego 36 (airport), tel. 071 symbol for all listed hotels, cafés, restaurants and bars
Aeroflot al. Jerozolimskie 29, tel. 022 628 25 57/022 357 70 03, www.eurowings.de. Lufthansa agent. offering a wireless internet connection. Many busy
628 17 10, www.aeroflot.com. Finnair ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Plaza), tel. 022 657 01 streets are also now providing free wireless access. If
Aerosvit Airlines ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. 29, www.finnair.com. finding a free connection is proving difficult it’s worth Country codes
022 650 40 60, www.aerosvit.com. Regular flights from Germanwings www.germanwings.com. buying a prepaid wireless scratch card. Mobile opera-
Australia 61 Germany 49 Poland 48
Warsaw to the Ukraine. Helios Airways tor Orange sells a range of easy to use cards offering a
Austria 43 Greece 30 Romania 40
Air Europa ul. Świetokrzyska 36, tel. 022 455 38 uI. Chmiela 132-134, tel. 022 656 23 00, www.helios- good choice of wireless connection options. At the time
40/022 455 38 44, www.aireuropa.com. of going to press a card giving two continuous hours cost Belgium 32 Hungary 36 Russia 7
airways.com.
Air France ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 022 556 64 00, Bulgaria 359 Ireland 353 Spain 34
LOT ul. Skarżyńskiego 36 (airport), tel. 022 9572, 9zł. A 19zł provides users two hours of wireless access
Canada 1 Israel 972 Sweden 46
fax 022 556 64 15, www.airfrance.com. www.lot.com. over a two month period. Their 29zł cards allow users
Air Lithuania www.airlithuania.lt. Czech Rep. 420 Italy 39 UK 44
Lufthansa ul. Sienna 39 (Warsaw Towers), tel. 022 to connect for a total of 24 hours. Find them for sale in
Denmark 45 Japan 81 Ukraine 380
Alitalia ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 022 692 82 85, www. 338 13 00, www.lufthansa.pl. kiosks and at many hotel reception desks.
France 33 Netherlands 31 USA 1
alitalia.it. Malev al. Jana Pawła II 15, tel. 022 697 74 72, www. Dialup
American Airlines malev.hu. If you don’t have the luxury of a wireless connection or
al. Ujazdowskie 20, tel. 022 625 30 02, w w w. Norwegian Air Shuttle ASA www.norwegian.no. you simply can’t get wireless access, all is not lost. The
aa.com. SAS ul. Sienna 39 (Warsaw Towers), tel. 022 850 05 Polish telephone company TP SA offers a simple internet Mobile phones
Austrian Airlines ul. Sienna 39, tel. 022 627 52 90, 00, www.scandinavian.net. dialup service which is far from fast but is more than good Orange A-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 19/23, tel. 071
www.austrianairlines.pl. SkyEurope ul. Żwirki Wigury 1 (Courtyard by Mar- enough for sending and receiving emails and well as basic 344 71 66, www.orange.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat
Belavia ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. 022 650 riott), tel. 022 433 07 33, www.skyeurope.com. browsing. To use the service simply dial tel. 020 21 22 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
23 14, www.belavia.by. SN Brussels Airlines ul. Iłżecka 26, tel. 022 575 71 and enter ppp as both the username and password. Plus GSM A-3, ul. Krupnicza 2/4, tel. 0 601 10 26
British Airways ul. Krucza 49, tel. 022 529 90 00, 00, www.flySN.com. Access costs the price of a local call. 01, www.plusgsm.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00
www.ba.com. Swiss ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. 022 697 66 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Centralwings tel. 801 45 45 45, www.centralwings. 00, www.swiss.com.
com. Wizz Air tel. 022 351 94 99, www.wizzair.com.
Cimber Air tel. 071 358 12 01, www.cimber.dk. Post
Express mail Post Office ul. Skarżyńskego 36 (Airport), tel. 071 354
EMS B-3, Rynek 28 (in the Post Office), tel. 071 347 19 73 50, www.poczta-polska.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00.
32. Also at most post offices. Q Open 24hrs. Closed Sat, Sun.
M & M Ser vice ul. Maga zynowa 2 (Bielany Post Office B-3, Rynek 28, tel. 071 347 19 38, www.
Wrocławskie), tel. 071 710 52 58, www.mumnet. poczta-polska.pl. Faxes and EMS at window No. 1 and 6.
com.pl. International forwarders. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. QOpen 24hrs.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Siódemka C-6, ul. Pułaskiego 48-50 (Krzyki), tel. 071
337 47 73, www.siodemka.info. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Telephone
Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. International Calls To call abroad dial 00 followed by the
TNT ul. Brucknera 24-26 (Psie Pole), tel. 071 324 03 country code and the number. To call Poland from abroad dial
24, www.tnt.com. Door-to-door service. QOpen 08:00 - your international access code followed by 48 (Poland`s country
17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. code) and the city code minus the initial zero.Calling Wrocław from
UK, for example, would require 00 48 71 then the number. To call
Internet cafes a Polish mobile phone from abroad, dial the international access
code, followed by 48 and the number minus the initial zero.
Cafe Internet A-3, ul. Przejście Garncarskie 4, tel. 071 Local Calls Local numbers have seven digits. Mobile
342 46 75. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. phone numbers have ten digits and start with 05, 06, 07 or
3,50zł 30minutes/ 5zł 60 minutes. 08. Numbers beginning with 0-800 are free.
Internet Cafe Spider
E-4, ul. Legnicka 72, tel.
071 352 13 96, www.
Prepaid cards
kaf ejka.wroclaw.pl.
Avoid steep roaming costs when visiting Poland by buying a prepaid SIM card and sticking it in your
Q Open 10:00 - 21:00,
mobile. Several companies now offer a prepaid service. Below is a comparative list of what it costs
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.
to set up and use each of them. Top-ups are available in most press kiosks unless otherwise noted.
5zł/h, printing and cd-burn-
All prices quoted are for peak time calls and were correct at the time of going to press.
ing available.
Internet Navig@tor B-3, Price Local London Top-up SMS Coverage
ul. Igielna 14, tel. 071 Card
(zł) (zł/min) (zł/min) (zł) (zł) (%)
344 59 62. QOpen 09:00
Orange 5/6/15/20 0.65 2.11 5/25/50/100 0.20 97
- 24:00. 3zł/h, printing and Heyah 5/20 0.68 1.70 5/20/30/50 0.20 95
cd-burning available. Era Tak Tak 9/20 0.77 1.81 5/25/50/100/150 0.22 95
Navigator B-3, ul. Ig- Simplus 9/18 0.72 2.00 5/10/30/40/50/60/80/100/150 0.18 99.5
ielna 14, tel. 071 344 59 Sami Swoi 9,99 0.66 2.00 10/20/40/80/160 0.24 99.5
62. Printing and cd-burning Play 9/30 0.59 1.99 10/30/50/100/150 0.18 99.5
available.QOpen 09:00 - Mobile King 20 0.5 2.00 10/20/50 0.15 99
24:00. 3zł/hour.

Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com wroclaw.inyourpocket.com January - April 2009

80 SHOPPING SHOPPING 81

Tax refund Computers

Interam ul. Krzemieniecka 60a, tel. 071 787 83 33, Wro
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Non-EU residents can claim VAT www.interam.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.
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shops bearing the Global Refund Vobis E-5, Pl. Legionów 2, tel. 071 341 15 61, www.
in your postbox logo. The only condition is a minimum phone
pho
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h ne
ne + +48
48 8 71 17788 55 8 8110
vobis.pl. Also on ul. Hallera 52, Pl. Grunwaldzki 22 (Pasaż
outlay of 200zł on your part on the
with our free subscription offer item purchased. Claim your Global
Grunwaldzki). QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun.
Refund cheque, have it stamped
at customs before claiming your money back at your
nearest cash refund office. For full details check www. DIY
Visit our website at www.inyourpocket.com/delivery/, globalrefund.com. Castorama ul. Krzywoustego 126a, tel. 071 320
give us your details and we’ll post you a brand new copy 81 00, www.castorama.pl. Also on ul.Czekoladowa 3.
every 2 months when the guide is published * QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 -
Magnolia video killed the Old Town radio star? Not 19:00.
quite. There is still plenty of city centre shopping to be Cermag ul. Strzegomska 36-40, tel. 071 782 00 10,
had in Wrocław, with pedestrian Rynek, Świdnicka and www.cermag.com.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00
Oławska offering bags of retail opportunities. Odrzańska, - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Kiełbaśnicza and Mikołaja are home to upmarket Domat F-4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 7, tel. 071 344 74 ART A
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E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S boutiques and galleries, while souvenir hunters will find
plenty in the small stores hidden away along the streets
91. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Gaya Market Budowlany ul. Opolska 136, tel. 071
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E celllleen
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* only available to readers with a Polish postal address
underneath the Town Hall. For the big name shopping 370 58 58, www.gaya.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat an
nd so ouuvven
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experience however, you will indeed need to decamp to 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. 10
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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps one of Wrocław’s big new shopping centres. The closest to Interior-Zachód Sp. z o.o. ul. Karmelkowa 29 pawilon
WARSAW KRAKÓW the city centre is Arkady Wrocławskie, next to the station 6, tel. 071 364 55 98, www.interior-zachod.pl. QOpen
and boasting a wonderful bookshop on the ground floor, 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
December 2008 - January 2009 December 2008 - January 2009
So This Is
X-Mas
amongst its many other delights. Magnolia Park is bigger, Praktiker J-7, ul. Krakowska 63/69, tel. 071 370
And what will you do?

Teodor Talowski
with more than 200 stores, though it is a taxi ride from the 98 10, www.praktiker.pl. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sun
Kraków‘s one-man
architectural movement
centre of town. If you have the time, visit both. 10:00 - 20:00.

Antiques Electronics
Wolf‘s Lair
Getting Down Wilcza
Antyki-Ars Silesiae A-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 29, tel. 071 Arcol F-5, ul. Kościuszki 15, tel. 071 341 07 98. QOpen
372 46 91. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Hypermarkets
Street

Humbug
Christmas in Warsaw
Closed Sun. Media Markt C-3, Pl. Dominikański 3, (Galeria
N°48
Poland - 5zá (w tym 7% VAT)
UK - £5
N°55
Poland - 5zá (w tym 7% VAT)
UK - £5
Galeria Retro A-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 24, tel. 071 343 Dominikańska), tel. 071 371 51 00, www.mediamarkt. Carrefour ul. Hallera 52, tel. 071 369 01 00, www.car-
90 84. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed pl. QOpen 09:30 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. refour.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.
EU (excl. Poland & UK) - €3 EU (excl. Poland & UK) - €3
www.inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1641-5264 ISSN 1508-2334

Sun. Neo Net G-2, ul. Zakładowa 2/4, tel. 071 329 25 55, Delikatesy Alma E-6, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 2-4,
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
Galerie Horszowski A-3, Rynek 2, tel. 071 344 41 93 www.neonet.com.pl. Also on ul. Horbaczewskiego 4-6. tel. 071 334 14 00, www.almamarket.pl. QOpen 08:00
GDA­SK WROCAW ext.14, www.podgryfami.pl. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.
Including

SOPOT & GDYNIA 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Video 3000 A-4, ul. Podwale 37/38, tel. 071 341 07 Tesco E-3, ul. Długa 37-47, tel. 071 356 10 00, www.
December 2008 - April 2009 September - December 2008
Inny Świat w Piwniczce Gotyckiej A-3, ul. 63, www.video3000.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 tesco.pl. Also on ul. Czekoladowa 11. Q Open 24hrs.
Out of the Kiełbaśnicza 24, tel. 071 344 61 03. QOpen 11:00 - - 15:00. Closed Sun.
18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Perfume & Beauty
ashes
Rebuilding post-war
Wroclaw

Pod Iglicą ul. Wróblewskiego 2, tel. 071 348 32 26.

Fashion
Quick Picks
The best of the city in

Drogeria pod Złotym Pucharem A-3, Rynek 26, tel.

a flash

Free City
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Inter war Gdaĭsk

GdaÍsk 2012
Pod Szermierzem B-2, Pl. Uniwersytecki 8, tel. 071 Vistula C-3, Pl. Dominikański 3, (Galeria 071 344 14 15. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:30.
342 34 16. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Dominikańska), tel. 071 346 83 50, www.vistula. Closed Sun.
Stadium Shenanigans

Closed Sun. pl. Also on ul. Krz y woustego 126, ul. Francuska 6, Pl. Organique Natural Cosmetics & SPA E-4, ul.
Grunwaldzki 22 QOpen 09:30 - 21:00, Sat 09:30 - 20:00, Legnicka 58 (Magnolia Park), tel. 071 338 54 39, www.
organique.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
N°27 - 5zá (w tym 7% VAT)
www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1640-3592
N°13 - 5zá (w tym 7% VAT)
www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1642-2899
Books & Paper Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Wrangler Lee ul. Czekoladowa 9, (Bielany Centre), tel. Perfumeria Douglas C-3, Pl. Dominikański 3, (Galeria
Empik A-5, Pl. Kościuszki 21/23, tel. 071 341 70 08, 071 311 28 61. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Dominikańska), tel. 071 346 81 85, www.douglas.pl.
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
www.empik.com. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - Zara H-4, Pl. Grunwaldzki 22, tel. 071 346 79 64. QOpen 09:30 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
POZNA­ ÓDl 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Perfumeria Marionnaud E-4, ul. Legnicka 58 (Magno-
Empik Megastore B-3, Rynek 50, tel. 071 343 40 lia Park), tel. 071 355 51 38, www.marionnaud.com.pl.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
16, www.empik.com. Dictionaries, phrase books, maps,
Food & Drink
November 2008 - February 2009 September - December 2008

foreign newspapers and magazines, CDs, DVDs, postcards, Sabon F-4, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 27a, tel. 071 783 87
office supplies and more besides. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Demmers Teahouse E-4, ul. Legnicka 58 (Magnolia 78, www.sabon.pl. QOpen 09:45 - 20:00, Sun 11:00
Sun 12:00 - 21:00. Park), tel. 071 338 51 62, www.tea.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Matras-Księgarnia Dolnośląska A-4, ul. Świdnicka - 21:00. Sephora ul. Hallera 52, (Borek Shopping Centre), tel.
28, tel. 071 343 58 49, www.matras.pl. QOpen 10:00 Organic Farma Zdrowia E-4, ul. Legnicka 58 (Mag- 071 783 18 00, www.sephora.pl. Also on ul. Krzywoustego
Ghosts of the
Past
- 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. nolia Park), tel. 071 338 54 50, www.organicmarket. 126 (Korona Shopping Centre). QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
Traffic Club E-6, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 2-4 (Arkady pl. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. 10:00 - 20:00.
Exploring the former
Ghetto

Toscana E-4, ul. Legnicka 58 (Magnolia Park), tel. 071

Bronze Age
Heroes
& Villains
The statues of
Piotrkowska Wrocławskie), tel. 071 333 64 62, www.traffic-club.pl.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. 338 53 56, www.toscana.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Photo
The Good, the Bad
& Ugly

N°21 - 5zá (w tym 7% VAT)

www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1642-2902
Coming At You
Holidays & Events
N°8 - 5zá (w tym 7% VAT)
www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1896-1169
Świat Książki A-3, ul. Św. Mikołaja 16/17, tel. 071 344 Vinoteka la Bodega A-3, ul. Św. Mikołaja 12, tel. 071
20 08, www.swiatksiazki.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 798 35 11, www.vinoteka.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun Ab Foto F-3, ul. Dubois 8/10, tel. 071 329 67 14, www.
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. 12:00 - 24:00. abfoto.pl. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com wroclaw.inyourpocket.com January - April 2009

82 SHOPPING DIRECTORY 83

Whether a traveller or an expat our directory has many

Hala Targowa useful contacts for you. Remember to email us if you find
any of our contacts particularly helpful or, for that matter,
Hala Targowa C-2, ul. Piaskowa 17, Plac Nankiera, unhelpful. We also welcome new additions.
tel. 071 344 27 31. Crying out for a facelift and a
thorough renovation, the faded glory that is Wroclaw’s
main market, Hala Targowa, is nevertheless a great 24-hour pharmacies
place to come and watch real Wroclawski living real Apteka Magiczna C-1, ul. Niemcewicza 6b, tel. 071
lives. Find top quality fruit and vegetables on the ground 795 62 20, www.magiczna.com.
floor, alongside a wide selection of local cheese, salami Generalna G-5, ul. Pułaskiego 49a, tel. 0 71 789 91
and hams. Upstairs is a bewildering array of bric-a-brac, 38.
nylon underwear and plastic kitchen utensils, and a set Katedralna D-1, ul. Sienkiewicza 54/56, tel. 071 322
of surprisingly clean and modern public toilets. To your 73 15. A good choice if you‘re north of the old town by the
right as you enter the market is one of the city’s best little Cathedral and the Botanical Garden.
no-name, no-fuss pierogi bars: at eight for 3.90zl it is also Pod Lwami A-2, Pl. Jana Pawła II 7a, tel. 071 343 67 24.
one of the cheapest. Essential. QOpen 08:00 - 18:30, West of Old Town near the Archeological Museum.
Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Accountants
cultural events and an 800 metre lake that transforms into Contract Administration A-3, ul. Św. Antoniego 15,
an ice rink in winter as well as plenty of parkland and greenery 1st floor, tel. 071 344 34 95, www.ca-staff.eu. Account-
and a dramatic piazza.QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. ing services.
Pasaż Grunwaldzki H-4, Pl. Grunwaldzki 22, tel. 071
335 87 22, www.pasazgrunwaldzki.pl. QOpen 09:00 -
21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Beauty & Spa
Beauty Salon for Him and Her (Salonik dla Pań
i Panów) A-5, Pl. Kościuszki 20, tel. 071 343 14 41.
Souvenirs Luxurious hair and beauty salon for men and women.
Amfora A-3, Rynek 22/24, tel. 071 344 10 86. Specialis- Jelenia Struga Day Spa A-4, ul. Świdnicka 12-16, tel.
ing in glassware, Amfora offers it in a variety of shapes, sizes 071 341 79 10, www.jeleniastruga.pl.
and colours, handmade as well. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat La Femme B-3, ul. Biskupia 7a, tel. 071 344 50 34.
10:00 - 15:30. Closed Sun. Narodziny Piękna A-4, Pl. Teatralny 8, tel. 071 796 67
Cepelia B-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 55, tel. 071 780 78 77, 64, www.narodziny-piekna.pl.
www.cepelia.pl. Also on Pl. Biskupa Nankiera 5/6/7. QOpen Optima Forma A-3, ul. św. Mikołaja 59-60, tel. 071 783
10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. 61 96, www.optimaforma.pl.
Empik A-5, Pl. Kościuszki 21/23, tel. 071 341 70 08, Galeria Art Amber B-3, ul. Szewska 68/1a, tel. 071 Royal Laser A-3, ul. Ruska 50/1, tel. 071 341 73 74.
www.empikfoto.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 785 58 10, www.artamber.pl. QOpen 11:30 - 18:30, Sat Studio Tatuażu Skullmaster B-5, ul. Kościuszki 34,
18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. 11:30 - 15:30. Closed Sun. tel. 071 344 74 82, www.skullmaster.pl. This may be
Fotojoker C-3, Pl. Dominikański 3, (Galeria Dominikańska), Galeria Przedmiotu i Osobliwości Manowce (The your idea of beauty.
tel. 071 346 82 49, www.fotojoker.pl. Also on Al. Hallera 52, Meander Gallery of Objects and Peculiarities) B-2, Tołpa Spa Borowinowe B-3, ul. Oławska 27/29, tel.
ul. Czekoladowa 7, ul. Krzywoustego 126(C.H.Korona). QOpen ul. Więzienna 1/4, tel. 0 603 76 58 03, www.galeri- 071 344 41 56, www.tolpaspa.pl.
09:30 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. amanowce.pl. The gallery sells paintings, ceramics and glass
by both Polish and foreign artists. QOpen 10:30 - 18:30,
Business
Shopping malls Sat 10:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun.
Mydlarnia B-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 19/20, tel. 071 343 Road Assistance , tel. 0 601 57 69 95, www.auto- Wrocław,, ul. S. Leszczyń
y skiego
g 5/7/9
Te. 071 3441129
Arkady Wrocławskie E-6, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 66 15, www.mydlarnia.wroc.pl. QOpen 10:30 - 19:30, pomoc.pl.
2-4, tel. 071 797 76 03, www.arkadywroclawskie.pl. Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Open:
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Centrum Korona ul. Krzywoustego 126, tel. 071 350 Business associations Mon-Fri: 8.00-20.00
Sat: 9.00-14.00
13 00, www.centrum-korona.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Watches & Jewellery British Polish Chamber of Commerce B-3, ul. Some things
things are pric
priceles
elesss
eles
Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Apart C-3, Pl. Dominikański 3, (Galeria Dominikańska), Oławska 2, tel. 071 344 14 77, www.bpcc.org.pl. A healthy and beautiful smile is one of them.
Factory Outlet ul. Graniczna 2, tel. 071 374 00 45, tel. 071 346 83 30, www.apart.pl. QOpen 09:30 - 21:00, Chamber of Handicraft (Izba Rzemieślnicza) A-3, To let you make an impression with your smile.
www.factory.pl. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Pl. Solny 13, tel. 071 344 86 91, www.izba.wroc.pl.
Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Beatrix Heir A-3, Rynek-Ratusz 20/22, tel. 071 344 22 Lower Silesian Chamb er of Commerce SERVICES PROVIDED
Conservative dentistry
Galeria Dominikańska C-3, Pl. Dominikański 3, tel. 02. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. (Dolnośląska Izba Gospodarcza) A-4, ul. Świdnicka Pediatric dentistry
071 344 95 17, www.galeria-dominikanska.pl. QOpen Dab SC. Jubiler A-3, ul. Ruska 37/38, tel. 071 343 53 39, tel. 071 344 78 25, www.dig.wroc.pl. Prosthetics
09:30 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. 33. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Western Chamber of Commerce (Zachodnia Izba Impla
Surge
g ryy
p ntologygy
Magnolia Park E-4, ul. Legnicka 58, tel. 071 338 44 Time Trend ul. Czekoladowa 9, (Bielany Centre), tel. Gospodarcza) A-3, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich 41/43, tel. Implantoprosthetic
60, www.magnoliapark.pl. Opened in October 2007, situ- 071 311 03 67, www.timetrend.pl. Also on ul. Krzywoust- 071 795 06 56, www.zig.pl. Periodontology
Orthodontics
ated close to the city centre and covering over 240, 000 m2 ego 126 (Korona Shopping Centre). QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Radiology diagnostics
the Magnolia Park complex features designer stores Peek
& Cloppenburg, Palmers, Tatuum, Camaieau, Centrum HiFi,
Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
W.Kruk C-3, Pl. Dominikański 3, (Galeria Dominikan- Conference organisers We offer to our patients:
• full RTG diagnostics and radiovisiography
EMPiK and electronics giant Saturn. Magnolia is serviced by ska), tel. 071 346 80 91, www.wkruk.pl. Also at ul. Orbis Travel A-3, Rynek 29, tel. 071 344 41 09, • non-inv
non invasive
asive caries
caries diagnos
diagnostics
tics
nine tram and bus routes with parking for 2,800 vehicles. Hallera 52, ul. Wita Stwosza 57/58. QOpen 09:30 - 21:00, www.orbistravel.pl. Organises coferences and training • endodontics usingg oper
p ative microscop pe
• ozone therap py
Reasons to visit go beyond the sheer scale of retail opportuni- Sun 10:00 - 20:00. sessions. • teeth whitening
ties; catering to the hungry masses are names like Burger Yes Biżuteria C-3, Pl. Dominikański 3, (Galeria Zamek Kliczków Kliczków 8, Osiecznica, Marketing of-
King, Ohh Sushi, Sphinx, Marche Oriental and Costa Coffee Dominikańska), tel. 071 346 83 28, www.yes.com.pl. fice in Wrocław: (A-2), ul. Garbary 1, tel. 071 341 93 83,
to name but a few. Over 40,000 m2 has been set aside for Also on ul. Czekoladowa 9 (Centrum Bielany), ul. Francuska 6 tel. 075 734 07 00, www.kliczkow.com.pl. Fully-equipped www.royaldent.pl
recreation alone and aside from the requisite multiplex visi- (CH Auchan), ul. Krzywoustego 126 (CH Korona), ul. Hallera 52 conference center in a castle in the forrest. Conference rooms
tors will find tennis courts, cycle paths, playground, art and (CH Borek). QOpen 09:30 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. for 200 and hotel for 217.

Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com wroclaw.inyourpocket.com January - April 2009

84 DIRECTORY DIRECTORY 85

Consultants Gold & Silversmiths Private clinics

Ernst & Young A-3, Pl. Solny 20, tel. 071 375 10 00, Semjase A-2, ul. Malarska 25, tel. 071 342 54 51, Ars Medica Aesthetic Dermatology ul. Mińska 38
www.ey.com. International financial, legal, tax and manage- www.semjase.pl. Silver jewellery repair. (Krzyki), tel. 0 604 08 13 04, www.arsmedica.pl. Also New
ment services. Wrocław Exhibition Salon (Salon Wystawienniczy on ul. Powstańców Śląskich 56a/2, tel. 071 373 89 29 and
PricewaterhouseCoopers A-3, ul. Św. Mikołaja 7, tel. Wrocławskiego Produktu) B-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 37, 071 373 62 62 Poland
071 356 11 70, www.pwc.com. Management consulting, tel. 071 342 57 18, www.restauracja-pasnik.pl. Cosmetic Surgery Center ul. Długosza 4, tel. 071 Express
tax, legal and financial advisiory services. 339 74 70, www.plastyczna.com.
Dr Stelczyk Plastic Surgery Clinic A-6, ul. Ślężna
Hairdressers & Barbers
Dentists Jean Louis Davis B-2, ul. Więzienna 18/1, tel. 071 344
148, tel. 0 606 38 37 37, www.stelczyk.com.
Private Plastic & Cosmetic Surgery Clinic B-1, ul. November may be a few months away from the Polish bleak mid-winter
Art-Dent ul. Zielonogórska 12a, tel. 071 343 66 87. 17 93, www.jld.com.pl. Rydygiera 30, tel. 071 328 44 44, www.knakiewicz. when temperatures sink to a mental -20, but with death, conspiracy,
Badenia B-3, ul. Igielna 14-15/2, tel. 071 372 30 36, Le Grand Salon B-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 16, tel. 071 341 wroc.pl. embarrassing government gaffes and economic downturn dominating
www.badenia.com.pl. 72 55, www.legrandsalon.pl. the headlines, November was certainly a bleak mid-autumn, as far as
Dens B-3, ul. Łaciarska 5/1f, tel. 071 344 78 33. Salon Fryzjerski Laurent A-4, ul. Świdnicka 22, tel. news stories went.
Dentalmed ul. Kamieńskiego 142 (Karłowice), tel. 071 071 341 07 70, www.laurent-wroclaw.pl. Real estate
327 63 13, www.dental-med.com.pl. Anna Pepłowska - Nieruchomości A-4, ul. Świdnicka It kicked off with an increase in the number of road deaths as vodka-
InterDent A-3, ul. Ruska 32/33, tel. 071 341 88 55, sodden drivers set off on their annual celebration of All Souls’ Day where,
www.interdent.com.pl. Language schools 39, tel. 071 341 07 88, www.nieruchomosci.wroc.pl.
Mamdom , www.mamdom.com. Mamdom.com is Po- ironically, they drive to cemeteries to pay respect to the dead. Police
reported arresting nearly 1,500 drunk drivers.
Polish My Smile , tel. 0 503 60 76 66, www.polish- British International School F-6, ul. Akacjowa 10-12, land‘s largest Anglo-Polish Property Portal listing thousands
mysmile.com. Most Polish dentists are great value, friendly, tel. 071 796 68 61, www.bisc.wroclaw.pl. of real estate offers from estate agents, private individuals, The death theme continued a few weeks later when it was announced
and speak English. These chaps are all of the above and they Polonica - Polish Language Classes C-4, ul. Wocella government organisations and companies. Every offer has that a murder-mystery dating back to WWII could soon be solved fol-
have a sense of humnour. Outstanding. 13/1, tel. 0 609 69 00 86, www.polonica.edu.pl. at least one image and the descriptions are all translated lowing the exhumation of the Polish wartime leader and national hero,
Royal Dent A-3, ul. Leszczyńskiego 5, tel. 071 344 11 into English by a native speaker, not a computer. You can General Wladyslaw Sikorski. He died in dodgy circumstances in 1943
29, www.royaldent.pl.
Laundry & Dry Cleaning choose to deal directly with the sellers (who often speak
English) or make use of Mamdom‘s interpreters, drivers, and
and the government department responsible for investigating WWII and
communist-era crimes reckons that he was knocked off by the Soviets
Foka ul. Żubrza 18, tel. 071 355 01 76, www.foka.
Foreign friendly banks wroclaw.pl.
other services. Help includes checking tenancy agreements,
organising utilities such as electricity, gas, internet access
with the connivance of the British government. A post postmortem will
resolve that, they hope.
Bank Zachodni WBK A-3, Rynek 9/11, tel. 071 370 Pralnia Samoobsługowa D-1, ul. Sienkiewicza 52, tel. and television and getting to know your local area. Mamdom
14 03, www.bzwbk.pl. 0 518 67 11 28, www.washsalon.pl. charges no commission on any property purchases. Abroad, Polish forces based in Iraq packed their bags after a five year
Citi Handlowy A-3, ul. Ruska 6-7, tel. 071 374 99 75, tour of duty. But as they were welcomed back amid a small fanfare, 1,600
www.citibank.pl.
PKO SA A-3, Rynek 1, tel. 071 344 36 67, www.pekao. Lawyers Recruitment other troops were sent off to Afghanistan to take over responsibility for
security in the Ghanzi province.
com.pl. Biuro Usług Prawnych A-5, ul. Kościuszki 6/7, tel. Adecco Poland B-4, ul. Piotra Skargi 22/5, tel. 071
071 343 28 04. 344 74 61, www.adecco.pl. Temporary staff, recruitment, The election of Barack Obama brought flurries of excitement, but not with-
Kancelaria Adwokacka E-5, Pl. Muzealny 11/5, tel. outsourcing, promotion. out a fair degree of humiliation, too. It started when Polish President Lech
071 343 20 58, www.adwokat.wroclaw.pl. Kaczynski, said he had spoken to the new president-elect who had vowed
to continue with plans for the establishment of a US anti-missile defence
Relocation companies system on Polish soil. Obama’s chief aide promptly denied this and said
Local government Corstjens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, the president-elect would only agree to it, if it proved to be necessary.
State Labour Inspectorate ul. Zielonego Dębu 22, Stara Iwiczna-Piaseczno, tel. 022 737 72 00, www.
tel. 071 371 04 30, www.oip.pl. corstjens.com. Worldwide removal services, excellent stor- Further embarrassment followed when a backbench opposition MP said
Obama’s electoral win was “the end of civilization for the white man.” This
age facilities and relocations to and within Europe. Office and
was compounded towards the end of the month when Oxford-educated
Money transfers local moves also handled.
Universal Express Relocations ul. Mińska 38, tel. foreign minister, Radoslaw Sikorski, apparently joked that Obama’s grand-
parents were cannibals. Both incidents are now being investigated.
Feniks B-3, ul. Szewska 75/77, tel. 071 377 18 97, 071 357 17 87, www.uer.pl. International moving company
www.dorex.com.pl. In the Feniks grocery store. (household goods, personal effects, office equipment). Further embarrassment lay in store for President Kaczynski when he held
Kantor Korona A-4, ul. Świdnicka 34, tel. 071 343 his much-vaunted Presidential Ball on Polish Independence Day. Only a
49 16.
Trade fairs handful of the 35 heads of state turned up. This wasn’t helped by both
local and international media focusing on the President’s decision to not
Inter-Tark I-4, ul. Wystawowa 1, tel. 071 347 51 49,
Photocopying www.intertark.pl. Exhibition design and production.
invite Solidarity hero Lech Walesa.

Kopland B-3, ul. Nożownicza 37, tel. 071 344 63 04, Wrocław Exhibition Salon (Salon Wystawienniczy Polish business got a pummeling with redundancies kicking in, bank loans
www.kopland.pl. Black and white (0.15zl/A4 page) and Wrocławskiego Produktu) B-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 37, being frozen and exports dropping, despite government reassurances that
colour (2zł/A4 page) photocopying. Large formats and tel. 071 342 57 18, www.restauracja-pasnik.pl. Exhibi- the country would not be affected by the global economic slump.

POLISH printing as well. tions and promotes the products of Wrocław`s industries,
including a lot of bathroom fixtures. The good news, if any, was a court ruling that the Polish president and his

Photo developing opposition leader brother and former Prime Minister, Jaroslaw, can now

FOR FOREIGNERS Laboratorium Kodak Express A-5, Pl. Kościuszki 20,

tel. 071 344 76 55.
Translators & Interpretors
Express B-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 92, tel. 071 344 76 65,
be legally referred to as ducks. The court reached its ruling following a
complaint from Kaczynski’s office against a Polish journalist who repeat-
edly referred to the twins as “Kaczory”, or “Ducks”. The judge decided
No1 A-2, ul. Odrzańska 24/29, tel. 071 346 06 38, www.biuro.tlumaczy.pl. Translates to and from most of the moniker was not slanderous.
www.fotocentrum-1.com.pl. Professional laboratory and European languages.
www.polonica.edu.pl atelier. Gajlewicz Adam A-5, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 52/28, Having as broad a view of the local market is key to any investment.
The New Poland Express, Poland’s leading weekly source of incisive
tel. 071 783 65 15, www.adamgajlewicz.myplace.
polonica@polonica.edu.pl English-language news, covers everything from politics and business

tel. 0048 609 690 086

Places of worship com.
Lizurej Grażyna A-3, Rynek 56/57 no.4, tel. 0 604 to sports and entertainment, giving you a more complete picture of
the country and people around you than ever before. Visit www.nwe.pl
Muslim Culture Centre (Centrum Kultur y 18 62 88.
today and subscribe to our free weekly PDF newspaper.
Muzułmańskiej) ul. Kasprowicza 24, (Psie Pole- Versus D-3, ul. Purkyniego 1, tel. 071 372 30 11, www.
Karłowice), tel. 071 325 53 20, www.islam.net.pl. versus.com.pl.

Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com wroclaw.inyourpocket.com January - April 2009

CAME TO POLAND?
WHY DON’T YOU VISIT POZNAŃ?
Poznań, a capital of the Wielkopolska region, is located half
way between Berlin and Warsaw on the international route
5 (E30) running from Berlin to Poznań and Warsaw. It is
easily accessible from Wrocław by train, which runs every
hour.

Poznań is a city with tradition. Splendid monuments of

art and architecture, representing a wide variety of styles
– from the Roman style to Secession illustrate rich history
of the city. Each part of Poznań prides itself on unique
character. The most valuable ones, including the 16th
century renaissance Town Hall in the Old Market Square,
are concentrated in three areas: the island of Ostrów Tumski
(Cathedral Island), the Old Town and the City Centre. A
unique ambience of the Old Market Square is especially
worth to be learn in the evening, when the nearby pubs and
cafes are crowded with people.

Poznań is a large culture centre. Among the outstanding

culture events staged here are the Malta International
Theatre Festival and The Henryk Wieniawski Violin
Competition. Poznań is home to the world famous boys’
and men’s male voice choir conducted by Stefan Stuligrosz
and the Polish Theatre of Dance Poznań Ballet, the only
one of its kind in Poland.

The residents of Poznań enjoy many venues and places where

they can relax and practice sports. Just five kilometres from
its centre are lakes with designated swimming areas, forests
with bicycle and hiking trails and an artificial ski slope and
sled track open year round. In 1990, Europe’s most advanced
2 kilometre long and 175-meter wide regatta course was
built on Lake Malta.

Poznań is above the ordinary – full of charming places,

surprising with its atmosphere, very dynamic and welcoming
at the same time. This city does have its own character, and
so do its citizens.

POZNAŃ – SEE YOU THERE!

More information about Poznan can be found at www.poznan.pl
Tourist information:
centrum@cim.poznan.pl; it@cim.poznan.pl; lawica@cim.poznan.pl
92 STREET REGISTER LISTINGS INDEX 93

Al. Armii Krajowej F-7, H-7 Gwarna F-5 Łąkowa A-4 Plac Grunwaldzki H-4, I-4 Środkowa E-4 7 Kotów 51 Diament 24 Klub 54 58 Mexico Bar 42
Al. Boya-Żeleńskiego H-1 Hauke-Bosaka G-5 Łąkowa F-5 Plac J. Szeli E-5 Śrutowa B-1
Al. Kochanowskiego I-3 Haukego-Bosaka C/D-4 Łazienna A-2 Plac Jana Pawła II E-4 Staromłyńska C-2 Abrams' Tower 34, 42, 51 Dominikańska 37 Klub Na Jatkach 58 Mike's Bar 54
Al. Kromera H-1 Henryka Brodatego F-3 Łazienna F-4 Plac Katedralny G-4 Stawowa B-5
Al. Matejki G-3 Henryka Pobożnego F-3 Ledochowskiego D-1 Plac Legionów E-5 Strażnicza A/B-2 Academus 51 Dom Turystyczny 'TRIO' 30 Kredens 53 Military Museum 65
Al. Słowackiego G-4 Henrykowska G-7 Legnicka E-4 Plac Nowy Targ F-4 Stysia E-5 Active Poland 63 Dwór Polski 26, 44 Kropka Chlup & Go 53 Mineralogy Museum 65
Anny, św. C-2 Hercena C-5 Lelewela E-5 Plac Orląt Lwowskich E-4 Sucha B/C-6
Antoniego, św. A-3 Hercena G-5 Leszczyńskiego A-3 Plac Polski G-4 Sucha F-6, G-6 Afryka 49 Error 52 Krzysztof Frączek 63 Misz i Masz 47
Arrasowa B-4 Hlonda, kard. D-2 Lniana G-7 Plac Powstańców Śląskich E-7 Sudecka E-7
Bałuckiego A-5 Hoene-Wrońskiego H-4 Łódzka F-6/7 Plac Powstańców Warszawy G-4 Sukiennice A/B-3 Akropolis 36 Esencja 50 Kuchnia Marche 38 Mleczarnia 33, 54
Bałuckiego F-5 Hubska C-6 Łokietka Władysława B-1 Plac Powstańców Św. Anny F-3, G-3 Alexander Fredro 63 Etap 30 Kurna Chata 44 Moloco 54
Barlickiego G-2 Hubska G-6/7 Lubuska E-5 Wielkopolskich F-2 Św. Antoniego E-4, F-4
Barycka D-1 Chemiczna H-3 Łukasińskiego D-5 Plac Rozjezdny E-5 Św. Doroty F-4/5 Alladin's 43 Ethnographic Museum 65 Kyoto Sushi bar & Japanese Monument to Victims of the
Barycka G-3 Chudoby H-6 Łukasińskiego G-5 Plac Słowiański G-2 Św. Ducha C-2
Baudouina de Courtenay I-2 Idziego, św. C/D-2 Macieja, św., pl. B-1 Plac Solny F-4 Św. Ducha G-4 Altana Pub 51 Europa 32 club 41 Flood 64
Bema G-3 Igielna A/B-3 Małachowskiego C-6 Plac Strzelecki F-2 Św. Jadwigi G-3/4 Amalfi 44 Europejska 37 La Casa 40 Motel Rezydent 28
Bema, gen. C-1 Igielna F-4 Małachowskiego F-5, G-5 Plac św. Krzysztofa F-4 Św. Józefa G-4
Bema, gen., pl. C-1 Inowrocławska E-3 Malarska A-2 Plac św. Mikołaja E-3 Św. Katarzyny F-4, G-4 Antidotum 58 Europejski Silfor Premium 27 La Scala 40 Multifood STP 44
Benedyktyńska F-3, G-3 Jadwigi, św. C-2 Marcina, św. C-2 Plac Teatralny F-5 Św. Mikołaja E-4, F-4
Berenta H-1 Jagiełły E-3 Marii Magdaleny, św. B-3 Plac Uniwersytecki F-4 Św. Wincentego F-2/3 Antrakt 49 Europeum 27 Le Bistrot Parisien 34 Nathan's Villa 33
Bernardyńska C-3 Janickiego C-3 Marsz. Piłsudskiego E-5, F-5 Plac Westerplatte H-3 Świdnicka A/B-3/5 Aquarelle 36 Exclusive Apartments 30 Lemoniada 54 National Museum 65
Bernardyńska G-4 Janickiego G-4 Matejki, al. D-1 Plac Wróblewskiego G-5 Świdnicka F-5
Białoskórnicza A-2 Janiszewskiego H-4 Mazowiecka D-3/4 Plac Zgody H-5 Świebodzka E-5 Archaeology Museum 64 Firlej 52 Leoapart 31 Natural History Museum 65
Biskupia B-3 Jatki A-2 Mazowiecka G-4/5 Podwale A/C-3/5 Świętokrzyska C/D-1/2
Biskupia F-4 Jęczmienna E-5 Mennicza A/B-4 Podwale E-4, F-3, G-4/5 Świętokrzyska G-3 Archdiocese Museum 64 Fish Restaurant 47 Lodziarnia La Scala 50 Na wyspie 33
Bogusławskiego A/B-5 Jedności Narodowej B/C-1 Mennicza F-5 Podwórcowa F-3 Świstackiego D-6 Architecture Museum 64 Galicja 34 Lothus 28 Niebo 54
Bogusławskiego F-5 Jedności Narodowej Miernicza D-5 Polaka H-4 Świstackiego G-5/6
Bohaterów Getta, pl. A-3 F-3, G-2/3, H-2 Miernicza G-5 Polski, pl. C-3 Swobodna A-6 Armine 34 Garage 58 Louis Bar 59 No Name 59
Bolesława Chrobrego F-2/3 Joannitów B-6 Mieszczańska A-1 Pomorska A-1 Swobodna E-5, F-5/6
Borna, pl. A-1 Joannitów F-6 Mieszczańska E-3, F-3 Pomorska F-3 Szajnochy A-3 Art 24, 36 Gem 27 Lower Silesian Cultural Novocaina 41, 55
Borowska A-6 Jodłowa B-3 Mieszka I C-1/2 Poniatowskiego G-3 Szajnochy F-4 Artzat 49 Geology Museum 65 Information Centre 62 Novotel 28
Borowska F-6 Joliot-Curie D-2/3 Mieszka I G-3 Poniatowskiego, ks. C-1 Szarzyńskiego H-3
Bożego Ciała A/B-4 Joliot-Curie G-4, H-4 Michalczyka E-3 Portowa E-2 Szczepińska E-4 Avantgarde 31 Globetrotter 52 Madness 59 Obsesja 59
Bożego Ciała F-5 Józefa, św. D-2 Mikołaja, św. A-3 Powstańców Śląskich A-5/6 Szczytnicka D-2
Braniborska E-4 Kamienna E-7, G-7 Miła H-3/4 Powstańców Śląskich E-6 Szczytnicka G-4, H-4 Babel 31 Gospoda Wrocławska 44 Małgosia 54 odNOVA 36
Brodatego Henryka B-1 Kanonia C/D-2 Minkowskiego H-3/4 Powstańców Warszawy pl. D-3 Szewska B-2/4 Bazylia 46 Graciarnia 52 Maniana 59 Od Zmierzchu Do Świtu 59
Browarna G-1/2 Kapistrana, św. C-3 Młoda H-6 Prądzyńskiego G-5, H-5 Teatralna B-4
Brzeska D-6 Kapitulna D-2 Młodych Techników E-3 Prądzyńskiego, Igancego, gen. Teatralna F-5 Best Western Prima 24 Grawitacja 52 Maria Magdalena 38 Ohh! Sushi 41
Brzeska H-6 Kard. Hlonda G-3 Modrzejewskiej A-4 D-5/6 Teatralny, pl. A-4
Bulwar Dunikowskiego G-4 Kard. Wyszyńskiego Modrzejewskiej F-5 Pretficza E-6/7 Traugutta C/D-4/5 Bezsenność 58 Green Papaya 36 McDonald's 47 Old Jewish Cemetery 65
Bulwar Włostowica G-4 G-3/4, H-2/3 Muzealna A-4 Probusa F-3 Traugutta G-5, H-5 Bistro Cappuccino 37 Green Way 48 Meksykańska Tequila 42 Olimpia 28
Ciepła F-6/7 Kaszubska F-3 Muzealna F-5 Probusa Henryka B-1 Trzebnicka B-1
Cieszkowskiego I-2 Katarzyny, św. B/C-3 Myśliwska F-3 Prosta E-5 Trzebnicka F-2/3 Bistro Green Papaya 36 Gruzińskie Chaczapuri 36 Mercado 43 Opium 59
Cieszyńskiego A-2 Katedralna C/D-2 Na Grobli H-5 Prusa C/D-1 Ukryta H-3
Cieszyńskiego F-4 Katedralna G-3/4 Na Niskich Łąkach H-6, I-6 Prusa G-3, H-3 Uniwersytecka B-2 Blue Bar Cafe 51 Guinness 52 Mercure Panorama 25 Orbita 29
Curie-Skłodowskiej H-4, I-4 Katedralny, pl. D-2 Na Szańcach C-1 Przejście Garncarskie A/B-3 Uniwersytecka F-4 Boogie 31 Haggis Pub 52
Cybulskiego A/B-1/2 Kazimierza Jagiellończyka F-3 Na Szańcach G-3 Przejście Żelaźnicze A/B-3 Uniwersytecki, pl. B-2
Cybulskiego F-3 Kazimierza Wielkiego A/B-3/4 Nabycińska E-4 Przeskok D-1 Ustronie G-2 Botanical Garden 66 Havana 52
Czerwonego Krzyża I-3 Kazimierza Wielkiego F-4 Najświętszej Marii Panny C-2 Przeskok G-3 Walecznych H-3
Czesława, bł. B-3 Kaznodziejska B-3 Namysłowska G-2 Ptasia F-3 Walońska D-4 Bugatti 26 Highlander 52
Czysta B-4/5 Kiełbaśnicza A-2/3 Nankiera, bp., pl. B/C-2 Psie Budy A-3 Walońska G-5 Burger King 46 Hi Way 32
Czysta F-5 Kiełbaśnicza F-4 Nasypowa A-5 Psie Budy F-4 Warzywnicza C-1
Czysty, pl. A/B-4 Kilińskiego C-1 Nasypowa E-5, F-5 Pszenna E-5 Wąska A/B-1 Cafeterie Chic 49 Hotel Bacero 27
Dąbrowskiego G-5 Kilińskiego G-3 Nauczycielska H-4 Pułaskiego G-5/6 Wesoła F-6
Dąbrowskiego, gen. C-5 Kleczkowska F-2 Nehringa H-4 Pułaskiego, gen. C/D-4/6 Widok B-4 Cafe Uni 49 Hotel Jana Pawła II 27
Daszyńskiego G-2, H-2/3 Kluczborska G-2 Niemcewicza C-1 Purkyniego, Jana Ewangelisty Widok F-4/5 Campanile 24 Hotel System PREMIUM 28
Dawida G-6 Kniaziewicza C-5 Niemcewicza G-2/3 C/D-3 Więckowskiego H-5/6
Dębickiego F-2 Kniaziewicza G-5 Nobla F-3 Rakowiecka I-5/6 Wieczysta F-7, G-7 Capri Trattoria Pizzeria 40 HP Park Plaza 25
Długa E-3 Kolejowa E-5 Norwida H-4 Reja H-3/4 Wierzbowa B-4
Dmowskiego E-3 Kołłątaja B-4/5 Nowa B/C-4 Rejtana B-5 Wierzbowa F-4/5 Casablanca 37 Ibiza Beach Club 58
Dobra E-4 Komandorska A-5/6 Nowa F-5, G-5 Rejtana F-5 Więzienna B-2 Casa de la Musica 51 Iguana 34
Dobrzyńska D-4 Komandorska F-6 Nowowiejska H-3 Reymonta F-2 Więzienna F-4
Dobrzyńska G-4 Kominka, kard. D-2 Nowy Świat A-2 Roentgena H-3/4 Wita Stwosza B-3 Cathedral of St. John the Inn Door Restaurant 37
Dolna G-2 Komuny Paryskiej C/D-5/6 Nowy Świat F-4 Roosevelta G-2/3 Wita Stwosza F-4
Dominikański, Pl. C-3 Komuny Paryskiej G-5 Nowy Targ, pl. B-3 Rostafińskiego B-1 Wita, św. B-3 Baptist 62 Inspiracja 53
Doroty, św. A-4 Konstytucji 3 Maja, pl. Nożownicza B-2/3 Rostafińskiego F-3 Witolda, ks. A/B-2 Cegielnia 52 Invito 40
Drobnera B/C-1 B/C-5/6 Nożownicza F-4 Rozbrat H-3 Władysława Łokietka F-3
Drobnera F-3, G-3 Kościelny, pl. C-2 Nyska G-7, H-7 Ruska A-3 Włodkowica E-4 Celtic 52 Jadalnia Dekada 37
Druckiego-Lubeckiego A-4 Kościuszki A-5 Odrzańska A-2/3 Ruska E-4, F-4 Wodna B-2
Druckiego-Lubeckiego F-5 Kościuszki F-5, G-5 Odrzańska F-4 Rybacka E-4 Wolności, pl. A-4 Centro Tropicana 48 JaDka 44
Drukarska E-6/7 Kościuszki, pl. A/D-4/6 Ofiar Oświęcimskich A/B-3 Rydygiera B-1 Worcella C/D-4/5 Centrum 32 Japanese Garden 67
Drzewna E-4 Kotlarska A/B-3 Ofiar Oświęcimskich F-4 Rydygiera F-3 Worcella G-5
Dubois A/B-1 Kotlarska F-4 Oławska B-3, C-4 Rychtalska G-2 Wróblewskiego, pl. D-4 Centrum Dikul 26 Jasek 28
Dubois F-3 Kraińskiego C-2/3 Oławska F-4, G-4 Rynek A-3 Wrocławczyka H-4
Dworcowa B/C-5 Krakowska H-6, I-7 Ołbińska G-2/3 Rynek F-4 Wybrzeże Conrada- Cesarsko-Królewska 37 Jazz Club Rura 53
Dworcowa G-5 Krasińskiego B/C-3/4 Oleśnicka G-3 Rzeźnicza A-2/3 Korzeniowskiego F-2 Chill Out Club 52 Jazzda 58
Dyrekcyjna B/C-6 Krasińskiego G-5 Orzeszkowej H-2/3 Rzeźnicza F-4 Wybrzeże Słowackiego
Dyrekcyjna F-6 Kraszewskiego F-2 Otmuchowska G-7, I-7 Sądowa E-5 G-4, 5, H-4 Cinema 32 John Bull Pub 53
Elżbiety, św. A-3 Krawiecka B-3 Otwarta A-1 Siemieńskiego F-2 Wybrzeże Wyspiańskiego H-4
Flisacka E-2, F-2 Kręta F-2, G-2 Otwarta F-3 Sienkiewicza C/D-1 Wygodna G-2 Cinnamon 32 Kalaczakra 50
Franciszkańska A-4 Krowia B-3 Owsiana E-5 Sienkiewicza G-3, H-3, I-3 Wyspa C-2 Coffeeheaven 49 Kalambur 58
Franciszkański, pl. A-4 Krowia F-4 Pabianicka F-6 Sikorskiego E-4 Wyszyńskiego, kard. D-1/2
Frycza-Modrzewskiego C-2/3 Krupnicza A-3 Pasterska E-1, G-1, H-2 Skargi F-5 Zachodnia E-3 Coffee Planet 49 Kaliteros 42
Gajowa C-6 Krupnicza F-4 Paulińska A/B-1 Skargi, ks. B-4 Zakładowa F-2, G-2
Garbary A/B-2 Krzysztofa, św., pl. B-4 Paulińska F-3 Składowa A-1 Zaolziańska A-6 Coffeina 50 Karczma Lwowska 44
Garncarska C-3 Krzywa H-3 Pawła Włodkowica E-4 Składowa F-3 Zaolziańska F-6 Cool Tour Company 63 Karczma Młyńska 44
Gdańska H-3 Księcia Witolda F-3 Pawłowa E-5 Skwerowa A-6 Zapolskiej A-5
Gepperta A-3 Kurkowa A-1 Pestalozziego G-3 Ślężna A/B-6 Zapolskiej F-5 Coolturka 52 Karczma Piastów 44
Gliniana F-6, G-6 Kurkowa F-3 Piaskowa C-2/3 Słodowa C-2 Zaporoska E-5/6
Gnieźnieńska E-2 Kurzy Targ B-3 Piaskowa G-4 Słowackiego, al. C/D-3 Zaułek Wolski A-5 Czekoladziarnia 50 Karczma Pod Szczęśliwym
Górnickiego H-3 Kurzy Targ F-4 Piastowska H-3/4 Słowackiego, wybrzeże D-3/4 Żeromskiego D-1 Czeski Film 52 Kupcem 53
Grabiszyńska E-5 Kuźnicza B-2/3 Piłsudskiego, marsz. A/B-5 Słowiańska G-2 Zgodna H-5
Grodzka B/C-2 Kuźnicza F-4 Piwna H-4 Smoluchowskiego H-4, I-4 Zielińskiego E-5/6 Da Lat 48 Kardamon 34
Grodzka F-4, G-4 Łaciarska B-2/3 Plac Bema G-3 Śniadeckich I-3 Żiżki E-3
Grunwaldzka H-3/4, I-3 Łaciarska F-4 Plac Borna F-3 Solny, pl. A-3 Zyndrama z Maszkowic A-1/2 Darea 42 Kentucky Fried Chicken 47
Grunwaldzki, pl C/D-3/4 Ładna H-3/4 Plac Dominikański G-4 Sopocka H-3, I-3 Zyndrama z Maszkowic E-3, F-3 Daytona 58 Klub 13 Igieł 58
Gwarna B-5 Łąka Mazurska H-1, I-1 Plac Franciszkański F-4 Srocza F-3 Żytnia E-5

Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com wroclaw.inyourpocket.com January

January -- April
April 2009
94 LISTINGS & FEATURES INDEX
Oregano 44 Pruderia 60 Spiż Brewery 56 Tumski 29
Pan Tadeusz 38 Przed i Po 55 Splendido 34 U Beatki 57
Paparazzi 55 Przekręt 60 St. Adalbert's Church 62 University Church of the
Partisan Hill 65 PTTK 63 Stara Kanapa 43, 57 Blessed Name of Jesus 63
Pasja 60 Qubus Hotel Wrocław 25 Stare Miasto 57 U Szermierzy 30
Passenger Navigation 63 Racławice Panorama 66 Start Hotel Jester 29 Vega 48
Pastelowa 38 Radisson SAS 25 St. Elizabeth's Church 62 Vincent 31, 39
Patio 29 Ragtime 56 St. Martin's Church 63 Vinoteka la Bodega 57
Pekin 36 Ramzes 43 St. Mary Magdalene's Church Wagon Club 60
Piast 33 Ready's 47 63 W Biegu Cafe 50
Piotrek Tour 63 Regeneracja 56 Strefa WZ 57 Wedel 50
Piramida 43 Rejs Pub 56 Strip Night Club 60 Wieża Ciśnień 39
Piwiarnia Warka 55 Restauracja Na Strychu 38 Studio P1 60 Wieża Ciśnień Bistro 47
Piwnica Świdnicka 46 Rezydent 29 Subway 47 W Innym Tonie 39
Pizza Dominium 44 Rodeo Drive 34 Świat Chin 50 Witaminka 50
Pizza Hut 44 Sakana 41 Szepty Chillout Cafe 60 Włodkowica 21 58
Planet Sushi 41 Salvador 56 Szuflada 57 Wodnik 30
Pod Gryfami 46 Sankt Petersburg 47 Tabasco 60 Wratislavia Tour 63
Pod II Strusiem 44 Sarah 56 Taberna Flamenca Camaron 48 Wrocław 26
Pod Kalamburem 50 Savoy 30 Taverna Espaniola 48 Wrocław Tours 63
Podkowa 30 Scandic Wrocław 25 Telepizza 44 Wroclaw University 68
Pod Papugami 55 Secondo Paradiso 41 TGI Friday's 34 Wskazóffka 39
Podróżnik 30 Senso 60 The Anonymous Pedestrians Zaułek 30
Pod Zielonym Kogutem 55 Silesius 33 64 Złota Kaczka 40
Pod Złotym Jeleniem 46 Sioux 34 The Mexican 43 Złoty Pies 58
Polonia 29 Sir William 38 The People's Hall 68 Zoo 67
Pomorzanka 50 Siwy Dym 56 Tourist Information 62 Zorba 58
Post & Communications Sofitel Wrocław Old Town 26 Town Hall 66 Żak 46
Museum 66 Soul Cafe 50 Tre Piani 39
Pracoffnia 55 Sphinx 44
PRL 60 Spiż 39
Prowokacja 38, 55, 60 Spiżarnia 36
Features index
Basic Data 13
Breslau 17
Climate 13
CRK 51
Easter 17
Essential Wrocław 62
Floods 16
Fritz Haber 8
Gnomenclature 59
Hansel & Gretel 30
Jewish Wrocław 65
Language Smarts 15
Local Heroes - Max Berg 49
Local Heroes - Steinmetz 38
Market Values 14
Orwat 40
Partisan Hill 65
Poland’s Venice 12
Quick Currency Convertor 14
Quick Picks 10
Stare Jatki 67
The Red Baron 69
Town Hall 66
Train Smarts 81
Train Station 80
Underground, overground 56
Water Tower 64
Wherefore Urban Art Thou 68
Zbigniew Cybulski 36

Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com