Iceland

I celandic Times Extra is an extensive and informative book about the Icelandic Tourist Industry. It contains
articles from the first 16 issues of Icelandic Times magazine as well as a number of brand new articles
on nature, natural wonders, birds and wildlife, towns and villages, museums and galleries, swimming pools,
activities, curiosities, accommodation, restaurants, design and handicraft and the endless exciting possibilities
available to our guests. The winter wonders with the Nordic Lights, the summer season with the Midnight Sun.
Whether it is fising, sailing, horse-riding, skiing, snow-mobiling, adventure tours, hiking, mountaineering,
river-rafting, glacier-tours, hang-gliding, or just plain relaxation in the tranquil nature, here you will find the
best possibilities on offer in Iceland.
The book travels clock-wise around Iceland, starting in Reykjavk at 08.00 with maps for villages and
towns, as well as greater areas. There is vast information on each of the ten main areas, their specialities and interest points; Reykjavk,
West Coast, Westfjords, North-West, North-East, East, South-East, South, South-West and, of course, the Highlands.
The tourist industry is an ever-growing field and thus we do not claim to give a complete account of the possibilities but we are close.
You can be pretty sure youll fid everything you need in this book.

Editor in Chief and Publisher

Icelandic Times Extra

Information about Iceland at Your Fingertips
I t took a volcano to bring Iceland to the centre stage in the eyes
of the world. From being Europes Best Kept Secret, the country
was suddenly thrust into the limelight, making Iceland a top tourist
The autumn brings change as the sheep are gathered from the
mountains and sorted by farm in the rttir fast becoming a popular
tourist attraction. The light and colours transform the landscape.
destination. Many thousands of people all over the world are seeking In winter, the ski slopes draw enthusiasts from many countries
information about Iceland and the number of visitors is burgeoning. while the awesome Northern Lights fill the night skies, sometimes
This first issue of the Icelandic Times Extra introduces Iceland in for hours on end. Hikers and mountaineers are rewarded by breath-
all its facets. It provides a valuable resource of information that you taking views in the silence and solitude of the snow-covered land
can use to plan your trip and use as you travel. It answers those basic away from the towns. Super-jeep tours take anyone, regardless of
questions of where to stay, where to go, where to eat and what to physical fitness, to the glaciers and peaks of the Highlands, which
do and buy. It contains a wealth of information about the country, are especially spectacular during winter months.
its nature, culture, customs, history, recreational activities and
lifestyle. You will be taken around the country, just as if you were The Life of the Night
driving from Reykjavk, visiting the towns and villages, with their The nightlife and restaurant scene in Iceland is legendary. Some
museums, restaurants, hotels and camp sites, handcraft shops and of the best restaurants are found in little villages. Visitors find
galleries. Travelling through the countryside, the natural wonders themselves welcomed and drawn into the enjoyment of the nights
are revealed, the birds and wildlife captured in spectacular photos by wherever they find themselves. Christmas and New Year bring age-
renowned expert, Jhann li Hilmarsson and the Northern Lights old traditions and modern parties to life with displays that draw
recorded by famed photographer, Olgeir Andrsson, making it a tourists from all over the world.
fascinating read for anyone interested in the Land of Fire and Ice.
About the Icelandic Times
The Life of the Seasons This, then, is Iceland and the Icelandic Times Extra will guide you
This is a country that dramatically changes with the seasons. The through it, help you find out more information about any aspect that
spring brings the birds from all over the world and the bird watchers interests you and provide you with a comprehensive picture of this
and photographers follow them. The summer brings golfers to play country that still holds many secrets for you to discover.
under the midnight sun; campers, hikers, and nature lovers to It is updated on a bi-monthly basis on the Icelandic Times website,
explore the countryside. Round the coast, whale- and seal-watching where you will also find much more information and videos about
combine with enjoying sights like the puffin and fishing, whilst the country and its people. All this can be accessed easily on your
inland, horse-riding tours, glacier walks, mountaineering, river- smartphone using the QR codes that are included in the contact
rafting and bathing in geothermal pools vie for attention with the information throughout the book.
magnificent and unique natural wonders that are making Iceland We hope you enjoy reading the book and it inspires you to
such a thrilling place to visit. experience what we love: Iceland in all its flavours.

3
 Contents Contents
Gems of Iceland ...............................................................66 First and last stop in Iceland ........................................ 112 Let the River Sing You to Sleep ................................... 205 The Mystery of Randulfs Sea House .......................... 304 Fantasy Tours ......................................................338-339 Another taste of Ethiopia............................................. 365
The Golden Circle ......................................................... 8-9 Skies Covered in Colours ......................................114-115 Refreshments on the Road ......................................... 206 Between Mountains and Fjord .................................... 305 True Comfort Food ..................................................... 340 The Chocolate Innovator ............................................. 365
A Very brief History of Iceland ........................................10 Adrenalin Pumping ....................................................... 117 Live Like an Outlaw ..................................................... 206 The French Connection .............................................. 305 Experience Excellence .................................................341 A Taste of Wild and Sweet........................................... 366
The Alingi at ingvellir..................................................11 The Grindavk Experience .....................................118-119 Unrequited Love ...........................................................207 Sleep by the Seashore ................................................ 306 Skgar Folk and Transport Museum ........................... 342 Within The Golden Circle ............................................. 367
Iceland symbolised in clothes ........................................12 The Fishermans Friend................................................120 Coffee with the Schoolmaster ......................................207 What One Woman Can Do ...................................308-309 Hotel Skgar ............................................................... 343 Down Into the Depths.................................................. 367
Land of Contrasts ..........................................................13 A Different Iceland .......................................................120 Capital of Country ....................................................... 209 Just Begging to be Explored ........................................311 Hvolsvllur: The Door to the Highlands ....................... 345 The Land of Health ...............................................368-369
Forging the Future ....................................................14-17 Mamma Mia .................................................................121 Horses, History and Nature .................................. 210-211 Comfortable Htel Blfell .............................................312 The Perfect Base Camp .............................................. 346 A Spring Evening in Stokkseyri ....................................370
Lessons from the Eruptions ......................................18-19 The Place to Stay in Grindavk .....................................122 Skagafjrurs Treasure Trove ............................. 212-213 Embraced by the Nature of East Iceland ......................313 Souvenir Candy ........................................................... 346 Elegant Eating ..............................................................371
Lighting the night .....................................................20-21 Stakkavk .....................................................................123 Light in the North ................................................. 214-215 The Gateway to East Iceland ........................................315 Sitting Pretty ................................................................347 Birds of Southern Iceland .....................................372-373
Enjoy the Lights ....................................................... 22-23 Natures Nuances.........................................................124 Make Friends in History ...............................................216 Fashion design goes all-natural .......................... 316-317 The Old Cowhouse Restaurant-Caf-Bar .....................347 Geothermal Cycling ......................................................374
Europes Only Fish Tannery ............................................24 A Mecca for Seafood Lovers ........................................127 A Dream Come True .....................................................217 Hotel Framt of Djpivogur .........................................318 Southern Fantasies ..............................................348-349 Adrenalin High .............................................................375
Leather from the Sea .....................................................25 Man, Sea and Nature ...................................................128 A Boutique Lifestyle in the North .................................218 East Iceland .........................................................320-321 Travelling Green ...........................................................351 Viking Tours of the Westman Islands .......................... 377
Best in Birdwatching ................................................26-27 Sail with Charcot..........................................................129 Dine in the Danish Era..................................................218 Dine by the Riverside .................................................. 352 A Weekend in the Westman Islands .....................378-379
The Icelandic Sheep .................................................28-29 Rare Sights of Reykjanes ..................................... 130-131 Far From Home ............................................................219 South Iceland ...............................................................323 rnesinga Folk Museum ............................................. 352
Tender is the meat ...................................................30-31 The Pearl of Drangey .................................................. 220 The Vast Vatnajkull.................................................... 329 A Man and His Horse................................................... 353 The Highlands ..............................................................381
Men Who Made Iceland............................................32-33 West Iceland ................................................................133 The Most Valuable Servant ......................................... 221 Sleep Under the Glacier........................................330-331 Touring Iceland from above and below.................354-355 Landmannalaugar ................................................386-387
Men Who Made Iceland............................................34-35 Designer with a Golden Touch......................................139 Outdoor Life to the Full................................................ 223 Humarhfnin of Hfn ................................................... 332 The Oldest Eco-Village .........................................356-357 A Glacier Walk made possible ..............................388-389
A Cultural Celbration ................................................36-37 Eat like the locals .........................................................139 Hannes Boy Caf & Kaffi Rauka .................................224 Eating well in Hfn ...................................................... 333 Make Your Trip Memorable ..................................358-359 Between the Glaciers ...........................................390-391
The Call of the Wild ..................................................38-39 They Love Life ..............................................................140 The Klondike of the North ........................................... 225 On of the World ....................................................334-335 Travel With a Friend .................................................... 360 Beyond the mountains .........................................392-393
Art in forment...........................................................40-41 The Saga Land of West Iceland ....................................143 Singing and Silence..................................................... 226 Discover an Ice-Blue World ......................................... 336 Slakki Zoo & Play centre ......................................362-363 Kerlingarfjll the untouched beauty .....................394-395
Contemporary Art in Iceland ..........................................42 Stay and See the Midnight Sun ....................................144 Enjoy Akureyri on a Budget ......................................... 229 Oasis Under the Glacier............................................... 337 Take a Break at the Waterfall ...................................... 364 Jkulsrgljfur - Vatajkull Natonal Park ............ 400-401
Reykjavk Art Museum ...................................................43 The English House With History and Soul ....................144 Where Fitness Folk Eat ............................................... 229 Index ........................................................................... 402
Treasures and Riches...............................................44-45 Settling for More .........................................................145 The Deep Valley in the North ....................................... 230
Enjoy Icelandic Farm Life .............................................146 Bsar Guesthouse in Grmsey ......................................231
The Greater Reykjavik Area............................................46 Golfing in the Dales ......................................................146 The Northern Playground .....................................232-233
Something old and new ...........................................54-55 Deep in Natural Wonders .............................................147 The Old Town of Akureyri .....................................234-235
Well meet in the Pool ..............................................56-57 Goats and Roses ..........................................................147 Winter Whale Watching from Akureyri .................236-237
An Icelandic Icon............................................................58 History Brought to Life .................................................149 A Hundred Years of Flowers ........................................ 238
Enter the Volcanic Caf ..................................................59 Its Time to Enjoy Life...................................................150 The Caf in the Flowers .............................................. 239
The Brave get the Best...................................................60 The Ideal and Idyllic .....................................................151 The North Eats Thai .....................................................240
A Changing of the Seasons ............................................61 Black & White or Colour? ..................................... 152-153 Pure and Natural ..........................................................241
Harbourside Sushi..........................................................61 Between the Mountains and the Sea ...........................154 A Perfect Day in Hrsey ........................................ 242-243
A Gourmet Experience ...................................................62 Superb Views and Food ...............................................155 Enjoy the Peace and Nature .........................................244
The Chefs Subtle Blend .................................................64 The Life of the Town ....................................................156 Home to the Ravens Roost ..........................................245
Art to Enjoy and Own .....................................................65 Snack in the Sun at Snfellsnes ..................................157 An Outdoor Paradise ....................................................245
Flavours of the Orient.....................................................66 Dining in the Old Town .................................................157 Riding the North ...........................................................246
Leather Designer............................................................67 Birds in Breiafjrur ........................................... 158-159 The Pristine Quality of Winter ......................................247
Focus on Fashion ...........................................................68 Iceland to Yourself .......................................................160 ingeyjarsveit County ..................................................248
The Aesthetic Wonderland .............................................69 Snfellsnes Peninsula .................................................161 Its a Birds Life ....................................................250-251
Jewels & Art by the Sea .................................................70
Map Legend
Experience a Fantasy World.........................................162 Birdwatching in paradise .....................................252-253
Opening The Treasure Chest ..........................................70 I Discovered America First ...........................................165 The Magical Mystery................................................... 254
Handknitters United .......................................................71 Prepare for Lunar Landing .......................................... 255
Life of Whales ...............................................................72 Westfjords....................................................................167
Hospital / Clinic Police station Graveyard Gulf course
Invigorate Yourself in Another World ......................... 256
See Iceland With Fresh Eyes ..........................................73 Mystic History ..............................................................173 Winterland Wonders.............................................258-259
Best way to see the city ................................................74 Icelands Oldest Country Hotel ..................................... 174 The Culture House ......................................................261
Post office Sports area Chemist Swimming pool
Self-Driving Made Easy..................................................76 Sailing Breiafjrur Bay.............................................. 174 The Biggest Bones Youll Ever See! ............................. 262
Gifts from the viking ................................................ 78-79 Magnificent Westfjords ...............................................175 A Stay by the Park ....................................................... 263 Church Boat trips Ski slopes Place of interest
Come out to play ............................................................81 Breathtaking Landscapes and Museums of Fun ..........177 Gentle Giants of the Sea ............................................. 264
Food Fit for Kings ...........................................................82 Peace with Nature and Birds ........................................178 As Far As You Can Go.................................................. 267 Airport Information centre Museum Campsite
Travel Back to the Viking Era .........................................85 Dine with the Vikings ...................................................178 At the End of the World ............................................... 268
Celebrate Horse Riding ..................................................85 A Travellers Haven ......................................................179 The Highlands in North East Iceland ....................270-271
Hafnarfjrur the Town in the Lava ..........................86-87
Credits Icelandic language How to make use of QR codes
Pirates in Patreksfjrur ..............................................179
At the Lavas Edge .........................................................88 Hrafnseyri ............................................................ 180-181 East Iceland .................................................................273
Rent a Second Home in Iceland .....................................88 North by Northwest......................................................183 A Farm with a Long History ..........................................279 Eln Bra Einarsdttir Nanna Hln Halldrsdttir Icelandic is one of the European
Gourmet dishes at fair prices .........................................89 Experience a Fishing Village ........................................185 Guarded by a Firey Dragon...................................280-281
elinb@landogsaga.is
Sigrn Ptursdttir
Eln Sigrur rmannsdttir root languages, like Latin. There
Radiant Jewellery and reflectors .............................90-91 Adventure at Sea..........................................................185 The Hiking Paradise .............................................282-284 elin@icelandictimes.com Stefn Helgi Valsson
is no c or z in modern Icelandic,
Can we invite you over? .................................................93 Icelands first settler ....................................................186 Kingdom of the Wyrm ..................................................287 Erna Sigmundsdttir Ssanna Svavarsdttir
Wonders at My doorstep .........................................94-95 Life through the Lens ...................................................187 erna@landogsaga.is Vignir Andri Gumundsson except in foreign words. However,
Cowshed Corner ......................................................... 288
Halla Lthersdttir It still contains some letters not
The Mansion of the Icelandic Soul .................................96 Beauty in Remoteness .................................................188 Eastern Lakeside Resort ............................................. 288 halla@landogsaga.is
VIDEO & TV DEPARTMENT
Your own piece of Iceland ..............................................97 A Nature Paradise ........................................................189 In Your Private World ................................................... 289 Hrnn Kristbjrnsdttir
Einar Th. Thorsteinsson found in most other languages.
EDITOR & GENERAL MANAGER Gabriel Rutenberg
Travel in Touch ...............................................................97 Where East is West ......................................................190 At the Eastern Crossroads .......................................... 289 Einar Th. Thorsteinsson
hronn@landogsaga.is
Sigurlaug Ragnarsdttir This basic list provides a general
Sigurlaug Ragnarsdttir
Stay Warm this Winter ...................................................98 Hlmavks Harbour House ...........................................190 A Fresh Place to Stay .................................................. 290 einar@landogsaga.is sigurlaug@icelandictimes.com
ART DIRECTOR idea of their sounds, using familiar Use your QR code reader application on your smartphone or
Connoisseurs Delight ....................................................99 Of Sorcerers and Witches ............................................191 PROOFREADER iPad to scan the QR codes. QR code reader applications can be
Hidden Pearls of the Highlands ................................... 291 Andrew Scott Fortune
ARTICLES WRITTEN BY Vilhjlmur rni Langfeldt
words rather than phonetics.
Baked to Perfection .....................................................100 downloaded free for all makes of smartphones
Trolling the Westfjords ................................................192 The Reindeer Centre ................................................... 292 andrew@icelandictimes.com Andrew Scott Fortune L AYOUT & DESIGN
The Crafty Side of Mosfellsbr ....................................101 SALES AND MARKETING Anna Margrt Bjarnadttir Sigrn Ptursdttir Character Pronunciation
The Natural Pearl of the East ...................................... 295 Icelandic Times
Anna Margrt Bjarnadttir Elaine Marie Valgarsson Svafar Helgasson
North Iceland ...............................................................195 Trendy Seyisfjrur ................................................... 296 anna@icelandictimes.com
Like ow in cow
The Reykjanes Peninsula .............................................103 Jlana Bjrnsdttir FRONT COVER PHOTO Like the personal pronoun I
Whos Watching Whom? ..............................................201 Eat, Drink, and Enjoy................................................... 297 Delphine Briois
delphine@icelandictimes.com Hrafnhildur rhalsdttir Landmannalaugar - Olgeir Andresson Like th in that
A Cultural Metropolis ...................................................109 The Life of Salmon ...................................................... 202 Eyjlfsstair Guesthouse ............................................ 297 Sumla 1 108 Reykjavk
Like th in thing
The World of the Vikings ..............................................110 Family leisure, comfort and beauty ............................. 202 A Birdwatchers paradise .....................................298-299 +354 578 5800
Harbour Dining in Old Keflavik ..................................... 111 Gateway to the Vatnsnes Peninsula ........................... 203 Quintessentially German ............................................. 301 info@icelandictimes.com
Salmon in every possible form ..................................... 111 The opinions expressed in Icelandic Times do not necessarily reflect those of the editor, publishers or their agents. Though the
A Guesthouse with History .......................................... 204 Home Away from Home .............................................. 301 www.icelandictimes.com
I wish I could stay longer.............................................. 112 content of this issue have been meticulously prepared, no warranty is made about the accuracy and completeness of its content.
Cosy Nostalgia ............................................................ 204 Meet the Locals ..................................................302-303
This first edition published January 2013 by Land og saga ehf. All rights reserved Oddi Ecolabelled Printing Company
 Gems of Iceland

Blue Lagoon ........................................................................124

Mvatn ..............................................250-254

Geysir ........................................................8-9 Landmannalaugar ...................................................... 386-387 Akureyri ............................... 232-235

Dynjandi................................................... 175

Ltrabjarg ....................................177 Jkulsrln........................................ 336 Westman Islands .................................................................. 378-379 ingvellir ................................................... 11

6 7
 Geysir If you get close to the falls, you will produce. It lies in a thermal
For a country named, Iceland, there is an undoubtedly get soaked by the spray but, hotspot under the Hellisheii mountain
amazing amount of heat in evidence and by climbing the staircase up to the top of plateau and has hot springs bubbling up

The Golden Circle

nowhere more dramatic than the famous the cliff, you will fi nd a caf and giftshop all around it, with plumes of steam visible
Geysir. Until a recent earthquake, it had gone where you can both dry off and enjoy their around the mountainside. These heat the
quite quiet but when it does erupt, sending delicious hot soup and snacks. greenhouses, along with the bright electric
boiling water up to 70 metres high, it dwarfs lights that make them clearly visible for
its brother, Strokkur, which erupts every Hekla miles around. A lot of food is grown here
58 mins. Strokkur is nevertheless a dramatic Named The Gateway to Hell, the Hekla and the town has a f lower festival every
Travel through the Treasures of the North sight, sending a plume 1830 metres high. volcano is one of the most famous and active year in June that attracts thousands. With
Surrounding these two giants are smaller volcanoes in Europe. It is clearly visible from a good hotel, golf course, good trout
geysers, bubbling hot mud pools and bright Gullfoss or Geysir, rising out of the plain in the
and char fishing in its rivers, numerous

V isitors come to Iceland for something

d i f ferent, away f rom t he norm.
Let others head south to the sun-baked
Halldr La xness, which has now been
turned into a museum, the quaint little
houses in the rocks reminding the visitor
finally set up in 1930. It was then placed on
the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2004.
The ingvellir area is part of a fissure zone
blue-coloured clear pools of hot water.
A beautiful hotel with a restaurant,
caf and giftshop is at the site to provide
east, normally covered by a large snow cap. It
has erupted about every 10 years since 1970 and
famous artists and authors, it is another
example of Icelands unique character.
its eruptions are usually quite explosive. It is due
b e a c h e s t h e y w a nt t o e x p e r i e n c e of the Hulduflk or Hidden People or the that runs through Iceland. These faults and refreshment and a place to enjoy the sights to erupt once again, though it has not shown Hellisheii
s ome t h i n g u n ique. I n t h at re sp e c t , southern episcopal see at Sklholt, also fissures mark the boundaries of the Eurasian in comfort over coff ee or a larger meal. any signs of doing so, at the time of writing. Leaving Hverageri in the valley, there is
the whole of Iceland meets that desire. the site of Icelands first school. and North American tectonic plates of the a climb up the steep side of Hellisheii.
However, for some, they do not have the Howe ver, wh at m a ke s t he G olden Mid-Atlantic Ridge. The effects of the Once at the top of this mountain, there is
time to see everything the country off ers Circle so famousand popularare the shifting of the plates can be seen dramatically an awesome view of the countryside to the
and taking the Golden Circle is like seeing three key sites that tours focus on: here as they slowly pull apart in the fractured south and east. Lava fields are punctuated
a microcosm of the whole. ground and rocks. by plumes of steam rising high into the
The Golden Circle genera lly refers ingvellir (Thingvellir) National Park Besides history, natural beauty and a air that turn golden in the evening sun.
to a t r ip to s e e s ome k e y site s: t he ingvellir (Parliament Plains) is the site rare geological site, Lake ingvallavatn is Coming down of f the mounta in, the
worlds oldest parliament in ing vellir on which the worlds oldest parliament, the largest natural lake in Iceland. South of visitor can see an odd snake-like pattern
(Thing vellir) Nationa l Pa rk; t he hot the Alingi, an open-air assembly, was ingvellir is the largest high-temperature area of pipes carrying hot water to the capital
springs at Geysir, after which all the rest held in 930. It continued to meet for two in the country, where water, heated by contact from the new power stations that tap into
of the worlds geysers are named; and the weeks a year until 1798. Following Inglfur with the rock still hot underground, is forced the geothermal waters heated by the rocks
power of the waterfall at Gullfoss. Arnarsons landing in 870 AD, many others to the surface, where it much of it is converted beneath the mountain.
It is possible to take a trip around the followed and the population grew steadily. into electricity and household heating. The Golden Circle encapsulates the
Golden Circle in a few hours but the longer Th at brought the need for laws and a place unique f lavour of Iceland in all its forms
you can allow, the more you can see and to settle disputes and the Alingi was the and beauty, its culture and history, past
experience. There are several tour companies result. and present. A brief article like this can
who can take you on a Golden Circle Tour Howe ver, i n g ve l l i r i s not ju s t a only hit some highlights but its worth
and their experience is very valuable, as they fascinating historical site. It possesses a ta k ing the time to investigate a ll the
can point out a lot of features on the way very unusual natural beauty that could many features that surround the tour.
that you might otherwise miss. have been lost to posterity had it not been Gullfoss Hverageri Then, if you have the time available,
A l l a lon g t he route you w i l l f i nd for the efforts of two early-20th century Just a few kilometres from Geysir stands Returning towards Reykjavk, the garden the rest of the country will only build
features that are synonymous withand men, Matthas rarson and Gumundur the spectacularly powerful double waterfall town of Hverageri is a popular place on what you have seen on this, the most
of ten unique to Iceland such as the Davsson. Citing examples of protection of of Gullfoss (Golden Falls) on the Hvt to stop for refreshments and buy local popular tour of Iceland.
caldera at Keri (Kerith, crater lake) or such special sites in the USA, the two lobbied (White River). The Hvt has its source in
the home of Nobel prize-winning author, for a national park to be established. This was the Hvtvatn lake on the Langjkull glacier,
40 km away in the highlands. The glacier is
clearly visible amidst the mountains of the
highlands from Gullfoss.
Its a wild spot and, as the river first plunges
down a three-step staircase and, in two wide
steps, plunges into a 32 metre-deep crevice,
it throws up a terrific spray that displays
multiple rainbows in the bright sunshine.
A bust has been erected to a nearby
farmers daughter, Sigrur Tmasdttir,
who fought to preserve the falls when the
government of the time was considering
building a large hydroelectric power plant
there, destroying one of Icelands natural
wonders. The nation stood behind her
and the government purchased the land
for a national park instead.

8 9
 A Very brief History of Iceland
rights. Alingi continued to be held at
ingvellir until 1798.
Today ingvellir is a protected national
874-930 shrine. According to the law, passed in
The Settlement of Iceland by the Vikings started in 874 and was largely completed by 930 AD. It was 1928, the protected area shall always be the
precipitated largely by internal struggles in Norway between King Harald the Fairhaired and other property of the Icelandic nation, under the
nobles. King Harald won a major victory late in the 8th century, after which he drove his enemies to the preservation of Alingi.
Scottish Isles, which he then later conquered. Many fled onwards to Iceland.
The first Viking settler in Iceland is believed to be Inglfur Arnarson. He started a farm in Reykjavk. The A World Heritage Site
years between 874 and 930 AD saw increasing numbers of Viking settlers arriving from Scandinavia ingvellir National Park is not only impressive
(bringing with them Celtic women and slaves) and claiming land in the habitable areas. for its historical importance, it is also a treasure
in its own right. In the last few decades,

The Alingi at ingvellir

930 research has made it clear that ingvellir is
one of the natural wonders of the world, with
Parliament: The Alingi, Icelands present-day parliament, is the worlds oldest existing national
The Worlds Longest Running Parliament at the Continental Divide
the geologic history and biosystem of Lake
assembly. A constitutional law code was written and the Alingi parliament established. Founded at
ingvallavatn forming a unique entity.

ingvellir in 930 AD, the countrys democratic system of government was completely unique in its day.
ing vellir National Park is perhaps The heathen lawmaker, named orgeir Being able to witness the evolution and
The judicial power of the Alingi was distributed among four regional courts, together with a supreme
the most important historical site in Ljsvetningagoi, went to rest under a fur formation of new species in a place like
court which convened annually at the national assembly at ingvellir. The Alingi assembled for two
Iceland. From 930 to 1798 ingvellir hosted blanket, under which he stayed the whole Lake ingvallavatn is of immense value. The
weeks every summer and attracted a large proportion of the population.
the Alingi, a general assembly where many night, before he gave his verdict: Iceland ingvellir area is part of a fissure zone running
of the major events in Icelandic history took wou ld adopt Ch r i st ia n it y, a lt hou g h through Iceland, being situated on the tectonic
1000-1106 place. It is included on the list of UNESCOs heathens could practice their religion plate boundaries of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge.
Christianity was peacefully adopted at ingvellir in the year 1000 AD. The first diocese was established world heritage sites as it is considered giving secretly. Th is coined a common saying in The faults and fissures of the area make the
at Sklholt in South Iceland in 1056 and a second at Hlar in the north in 1106. Both became the a unique ref lection of mediaeval Norse/ Iceland, to lie down underneath the fur, rifting of the earths crust evident.
countrys main centres of learning. Germanic culture and one that persisted in which is said whenever a matter needs to Preservation measures at ingvellir were
essence from its foundation in 980 AD until be given serious thought. modelled on the national parks that had
1120-1230 the 18th century. been established somewhat earlier in the
The Sagas include some of the classics of world medieval literature and are written in the ancient Parliament Under the King United States to stem changes to the natural
Viking languageOld Norse. Between 1120 and 1230, the Norse Sagas were written down on vellum A Nationwide Assembly of Free Men The Alingi took on a different role in environment there resulting from encroach-
in Iceland. The first literary medium to emerge was poetry, which tended to be heroic in theme. The Alingi initially was a general assembly the later part of the 12th century, when the ment by settlers. National parks conserved
Poetry was then replaced by epic and dramatic tales of early settlement, romance, disputes and the of the nation, where the countrys most executive power was transferred to the King large uninhabited areas, which people could
development of Iceland. eminent leaders gathered to set laws and settle of Norway with the adoption of the new visit and enjoy - but not settle or develop.
1244-1262 disputes. The Alingi was considered the most legal corpora of the codex Jrnsa in 1271
important social gathering of the year and and Jnsbk in 1281. Now Alingi shared Preserved for the Worlds Enjoyment
Conquered: Norway laid a claim to Iceland and conquered the island in 1262 in a navy battle which
lasted two weeks each time. All free men were formal legislative power with the king and Iceland identified a similar need to preserve
resulted in the infamous Sturlung Age, a turbulent era of political treachery and violence, dominated
allowed to attend and the event frequently both the king and Alingi had to give its certain natural and historical sites for future
by Sturla Thurdason and his sons. Iceland became a Norwegian and later a Danish province and didnt
drew a large crowd of farmers, traders, consent for laws to be passed. Toward the generations to enjoy them in their original
regain its independence until 1944.
storytellers, travellers and, of course, those end of the 14th century Norway and Iceland state.Today, ingvellir is one of the most
who had disputes to settle. These guests would were brought under the control of the frequently visited tourist sites in the country.
1855-1890 each set up their own camps during Alingi Danish monarchy through royal succession. Each year, thousands of visitors go there to
Emmigration: In the last quarter of the 19 th century, the Icelandic nation was beset by problems of and fragments of around 50 booths built from In 1662 Alingi relinquished its autonomy become better acquainted with Icelands
hardship, overpopulation, disease and famine. Icelanders had been emigrating west to North America turf and stone can still be found there today. to the Danish Crown, including legislative greatest historical site and jewel of nature.
since 1855, but the first organised journey was undertaken in 1873 when a large group sailed from At the centre of the assembly stands
Akureyri. The greatest exodus to the west took place shortly after 1880 and the situation lasted until Lgberg, or Rock of Law, on top of which
1890, when living conditions began to improve. an appointed official would direct the events
and recite the laws of the land.
1904-1930
Home Rule came to Iceland with the appointment of the first Icelandic government minister. In 1918, Decisions that Changed History
Denmark, recognised Iceland as a fully sovereign state, united with Denmark under a common king. Many important decisions were taken at
Denmark, though, retained responsibility for Icelands defence and foreign affairs. In 1930 there were ingvellir and perhaps the most important
huge celebrations at ingvellir in honour of the millennial anniversary of the founding of the Alingi one was the adoption of Christianity in the
parliament. year 1000. At that time, Iceland was divided
into two factions: heathens and Christians.
1944 Each faction had its own lawmaker and
Independence: When the Germans occupied Denmark in April 1940, Iceland took over its own foreign
refused to acknowledge the other groups
policy and proclaimed its neutrality. The islands vulnerability and strategic value became a matter of
legislation, thus threatening to dissolve
concern for the Allies, who occupied Iceland in May 1940. Following a plebiscite, Iceland formally
Alingi. Famously, the two lawmakers
became an independent republic on June 17, 1944. decided that the heathen lawmaker would
decide which faith should prevail.

10 11
 Volcanic Eruptions Every Five Years
Iceland is one of the most active volcanic
regions on earth, with eruption frequency of
about 20 events per century. Iceland is home
to more than 100 volcanoes and on average,
a volcano erupts about every 5th year.
Volcanoes define a wide spectrum of
forms, ranging from a crack in the ground
to the stately strato volcanoes like the Hekla
volcano. Icelanders have learned to live with
natural disasters and there is a risk that
eruptions could take place at any time.
Lakis great eruption in 1783 is the largest
lava eruption known to the world in historical
times. Enormous quantities of lava poured
out and devastated immense areas of land.
Poisonous gases and ashes from the eruption
led to crop failure and livestock deaths.
In the famine that followed, one fi fth of
Icelands population died. Fortunately for
Iceland, such cataclysmic events are rare.
A recent major eruption took place in
1973 when, without warning, a new volcano
erupted on the eastern side of Heimaey in
the Westman Islands.
In 1963, further south, accompanied by
columns of fi re, clouds of ash and rumbles
of t hu nder, a completely ne w isla nd
emerged from the sea. Th is island is called
Surtsey after Surtur, the fi re giant from
Nordic mythology.

Iceland
Melting the Ice Age Away
After the last Ice Age, the land had changed
and great mountain ranges had grown from

symbolised
the sub-glacial eruptions. Composed mainly

T he Icelandic National Costume holds

great significance in the minds of most
Icelanders. Every independence day (17th June),
of crumbly rocks, like easily eroded tuff and
rhyolite, they are the beautifully coloured
mountains at Landmannalaugar, the moss-

in clothes
an Icelandic actress is chosen to represent the clad cliff s of rsmrk and the grey ridges

Land of Contrasts
Fjallkona (the lady of the mountains) who that transect the northern desert.
symbolises Iceland as a whole. The Fjallkona Where the eruptions were long enough,
appears in full traditional garb; the splendid they broke through the ice and a hard cap
Skautbningur, complete with elaborate The geology of Iceland of lava formed. After the ice melted, flat-
embroidery, belt of linked silver, silver brooch
and a high white headdress.
History preserved
I celand is a land of contrasts and diversity
where beautifully colored lava, wide
expanses of sand, and the power of its
to be fed by a deep mantle plume. At the
plate boundary the two major plates, the
Eurasia and North America Plates, move
topped table mountains appeared, of which
Herubrei is the most striking.
The older parts of Iceland, the east,
Independence costume In order to preserve knowledge of the waterfalls all interplay. Only a short drive apart today with a velocity of about 19 north and north-west of the island were
The origin of the Icelandic costume is unclear, Icelandic traditional costume and the making from Reykjavk one fi nds oneself in a vast mm/year. The divergence continues today eroded during the Ice Ages and steep-
as historical evidence is scarce before the 16th of these costumes, the Ministry of Education wilderness where lava formations resemble a nd is accompa nied by ea r t hqua kes, sided va lleys and f jords were formed.
century. But from the 16th and 17th century and Culture established a National Costume modern sculpture, bubbling holes of mud reactivation of old volcanoes and creation Those mountains are made of many layers
evidence is more readily available from paintings Board in 2001. This board has since collected with superheated water are found, glaciers of new volcanoes. The best place in the of basalts from eruptions that built the
and manuscripts. Interest in the traditional and supported extensive research on the fill valleys and geysers explode. world to study divergent plate boundaries foundations of the island. Because of
costume grew considerably in the 19th century Icelandic traditional costume. is ingvellir (Thingvellir), a short drive Icelands location, on the Mid-Atlantic
when Icelands campaign for independence Throughout its history the national costume Geological Hot Spot from Reykjavk where one can observe Ridge, the island will be in the process
from Danish rule gained momentum. The has developed and adjusted to different fashion You can catch a glimpse of the Icelandic On a geological time scale, Iceland is a both faults and tension fissures related of formation and transformation. Its old
costume proved a useful tool for a nation with a landscapes and now has several variations, National Costume at rbjarsafn. very young country. It is situated astride a to the rifting and drifting of the North parts, the east and west carried away by
growing sense of national identity and became including: Peysuft, Upphlutur, Kyrtill, divergent plate boundary, the Mid-Atlantic A mer ic a n a nd Eu r a si a n pl ate s aw ay the elements, while new parts are created
a symbolic icon for Icelands spirit. Skautbningur and Faldbningur. Further information at www.buningurinn.is Ridge, and on top of a hotspot presumed from each other. by volcanic action.

12 13
 Forging
the Future Iceland Pioneers Clean Energy
has proven to have serious weaknesses, as shown with 14 other organisations throughout

T he world of tomorrow will no longer

be powered by polluting fossil fuels.
With the worlds oil, coal and gas reserves
by the major incidents at Three Mile Island,
Chernobyl and Japan. Nuclear waste is also a
very challenging issue, for which no truly safe
Scandinavia, both in academic and business
arenas. Tidal energy is also being researched
at the university.
dwindling, attention is being focussed on and effective solution has been found.
alternative forms of energy generation. Hydrogen Power
Although a very small country, Iceland is on Renewable Energy Resources In an effort to reduce dependence on oil, Global
the cutting edge of both research and use of According to figures compiled in 2007, hydro Energy prize winner, physicist orsteinn Ingi
clean energy resources. The country has shown power led the field in installed capacity at Sigfsson and his team at the University of
that it is possible to use clean energy, even 87.5%, followed by Biomass with 4.5%, Wind Iceland and Innovation, (the government-
close to the Arctic Circle. Whether houses is well under way to address the remaining According to research published by Dr. with 6.6%, Geothermal at 1% and Solar at sponsored centre to promote development and amount of time and investment that has
are heated by geothermal energy or powered 18% of energ y requirements: that of Ingvar Frileifsson, Director of the UN 0.4%. The potential for each of these resources marketing of new ideas), Daimler-Chrysler, been poured into the internal combustion
by hydroelectricity, Iceland has shown that it transportation. Experiments with hydrogen- University in Reykjavk, 70% of the worlds is so great, however, that all the expected Norsk Hydro and Shell Hydrogen, have engine, progress has been very significant.
is not only possible but an environmentally powered buses, methane or electric cars have population uses less than a quarter of the future energy needs could technically be met already got probably the worlds most crowded Th is work is not being done in isolation
very friendly way to power a modern society. proven the feasibility of these alternative energy per capita of W. Europe and one sixth through renewable resources. hydrogen station in the world running in but is being shared with the international
By having the political will, support from energy sources. In other areas, recycling has of the USA. Two billion people or one third Reykjavk, currently serving 2,000 cars. community. An example of this is Russias
the business and academic sectors and an led to towns being powered through energy of the worlds population have no access to Icelands Role The potential power gains from hydrogen investment in the establishing of a large
environment that encourages innovation, a lot generated from waste disposal and bio diesel energy resources. Th is is not only a moral Iceland uses not only its natural resources fuel cells far surpass the capacity of current centre for renewable energy at the university
of progress has already been made. is freely available at fuel stations. issue but a societal challenge of immense but the intellect and skills of its people. battery storage technology, making them an in the 400 year-old city of Tomsk, in Siberia.
Whilst, clearly, each country has to proportions, especially given the anticipated Since 1951, Icelandic geothermal experts ideal power source for vehicles. Hyundai is Taking another approach, Reykjavk
assess its own resources and capabilities, if A Worldwide Challenge increase in the worlds population. A key have worked as consultants in over 50 introducing a hydrogen-powered car with a City has installed recharging centres for
a small nation such as Iceland can develop In this fast-changing world, countries are still issue, therefore, is how to improve the living countries on all continents. When the UN range of 500 km, opening the door for the battery-powered cars and the N1 energy
a renewable energy policy that currently heavily dependent on fossil fuels for their energy standards of the poor and, in this context, discussed the need for the development of further expansion of the concept. company has installed some of its service
meets 82% of its needs, then larger and more needs. A full 79% of current energy needs are met energy plays a vital role. alternative energy forms, Iceland stepped up Using hydrogen to power fuel cells with stations with methane pumps for the
auent societies can find hope in reducing by oil-based products yet, with the developing The only conceivable way to increase world and opened a UN university in Reykjavk battery storage for the excess energy, the increasing number of hybrid cars.
their dependence on finite fossil fuels. worlds energy needs growing and oil reserves energy supply is to develop renewable energy in 1978 focusing on the geothermal aspects. vision of the non-polluting electric car is A transportation system whose only
Such is t he impetu s to become a s dwindling, alternative energy forms are needed resources. Nuclear energy, once thought Hydrogen use is actively pursued. Wind steadily becoming reality. However, there byproduct is clean water would have a major
independent of fossil fuels as possible that the to fill the void. At present, all renewable energy capable of providing all the worlds needs, research is currently under way by a team in are still great challenges and problems to impact on the world with a drastic cut in
development of hydrogen-powered fuel cells forms contribute only 14% of the worlds energy. currently supplies 7% of the worlds energy. It the University of Iceland, in collaboration be overcome but when compared to the pollution and health issues to name just two.

14 15
 Tidal Power the Icelandic Roads Authority, so the plan
Using the Fire in the Basement countries can develop a comprehensive potential sites for wind farms. Landsvirkjun, Icelanders are ambitious when it comes would combine both projects.
For many years now, hot water has been used de velopment prog ra m me. Fol low-up the countrys energy company, is planning a to energy and scientists are now looking
to heat houses in many parts of Iceland. In is done in each area by the Icelandic pilot project near Brfell. The wind at a height at osmotic and tidal power to meet future From Poverty to Plenty
1930, geothermal heating was installed in professionals and close communication of 90 m or more is much stronger and more energy needs. orsteinn Ingi Sigfusson A round 1900, Iceland was considered
Reykjavk. Bubbling up from the ground in is maintained to provide a cost-effective consistent than at lower levels, so by using at the Innovation Centre Iceland (ICI), the poorest country in Europe and all
hot springs, the water has also been used in programme. Geothermal resources offer the tall windmills about 100 m in height, a much who ha s a lso been involved wit h t he its scientists and engineers had to travel
swimming pools and hot tubs. However, it most consistent supplies of energy, unlike greater generating capacity can be utilised. development of osmotic energy and tidal abroad to gain their education. Since the
was realised early on that there was potential wind and solar power and there are many Developing a complex mathematical model, power, says that osmotic technology is end of the Second World War, there has
for much more. Drilling into volcanic rocks, locations worldwide where the technology one plan is to combine wind and hydro to relatively safe and simple. been a massive growth in the university
still hot after many centuries, produced many can be applied. Its technical potential is 100 produce constant power. Wind currently Prototype power plants tapping these student population and now the University
new sources of hot water and steam. This led times that of hydroelectricity. produces 2% of world energy. The technical innovative sources are to be located in the of Iceland, celebrated its centenary in
to electricity generating stations using this potential of wind energy worldwide is almost Westfj ords of Iceland and expected to be 2011, is recognised as being one of the
geothermal source to supply power. One Blowing in the Wind 13 times that of hydroelectricity. functional in the next few years. top centres of learning and research in the
unexpected offshoot of one of these stations Wi nd power generat ion is a mat u re A s for t id a l p ower, t wo t y p e s a re fields of engineering and renewable energy.
in the Reykjanes peninsula was the creation technology that is being applied worldwide. Water Power envisaged: a tida l barrage plant and a Th is, along with the UN University, the
of the now-famous Blue Lagoon health spa. However, there is still a great deal of Icela nd ha s some of Europes la rgest tidal current plant. new Keilir university at Kefl avk and the
By 2009, 66% of primary energy came from research being undertaken to develop glaciers and most powerful waterfalls. The Bjarni M. Jnsson has been involved Innovation Centre, has created a dynamic
geothermal sources - both heat and electricity. greater efficiency and power. fi rst hydroelectric power station was built with the former. It will measure the force for the development of renewable
A wealth of experience has been gained in Iceland, living under the jet stream, in 1904. There are many sites throughout height difference between low and high resources both at home and worldwide
all the technologies needed to tap into this def initely has the potentia l for wind the country that have now been developed tides, he says. He found that the real t h at w i l l b e of g re at b ene f it to t he
powerful energy source. For the past 30 years, generation. A team, led by Kristjn Jnasson, for hydroelectric power. Over 80% of power that can be harnessed from the international community and developing
the UN University Geothermal Training a professor at the University of Iceland, electricity generation has been through fjords emptying into Breiafjrur would countries, in particular.

Images by Olgeir Andresson

Programme in Reykjavk has trained 424 in conjuction with other universities and hydroelectric power. The largest power be 75-80 Mw. But t here is a n added From its humble state at the beginning
scientists from 44 developing countries Scandinavian companies are working on station by far is Krahnjkavirkjun (690 bonus: if the barrage is constructed, two of t he l a s t c ent u r y, Ic e l a nd h a s a n
from China to Africa to Central America. a project named IceWind. The Icelandic MW), which generates electricity in the crossings will be built across adjacent understanding of the needs of developing
By training teams who can work together, Meteorological Office has built a wind area north of the Vatnajkull glacier for fj ords to house the turbines. Bridges for countries and is doing its best to help
combining their talents from each discipline, map of the country, showing the most the production of aluminium. these fjords were already in the pipeline by transform them in the same way. asF

16 17
 moved repeatedly by wind and water erosion large areas, in total over
possibly causing further abrasive damage. 2,170 ha of land, where existing vegetation
R isks can be reduced by a build-up was either strengthened with fertilizer
of healthy ecosystems, which increases distribution or areas were reseeded in order
resilience and provides a better capability to reduce damage from post-eruption storms
for surviving ash fallout. The common of re-suspended ash.
range lands in the highlands that are T he Soi l C on ser vat ion Ser v ic e of
now degraded pose Icelands most serious Iceland and the Road Administration were
environmental problem. Existing vegetation instrumental in flood prevention actions,
in common range lands is generally sparse repairing various river bank barriers that
and low growing and is therefore vulnerable were damaged due to floods of glacial melt-
to disruption. Ash fall onto such land can be water caused by the volcanic activity and
catastrophicas seen in recent events. then later by repeated rain-induced floods
Resilience to catastrophic events can be in ash filled river channels.
drastically improved by land reclamation
efforts. Distribution of fertilizer and
sometimes seeds or tree-planting can provide
degraded ecosystems with the extra help
they need on the road to recovery. Use of the
natural succession of vegetation over a long-
time period is the only reasonable method

Lessons
to achieve significant results over the large
areas that need assistance, for both economic
reasons and also lack of machine accessibility.
The future land use is an important aid T he Soi l C on ser vat ion Ser v ic e of
in this respect. Sustainable management Iceland has, for more than a century,
is important, revegetation of land and promoted encouragement of sustainable
restoration of natural birch forests and land use and appropriate management of

from the Eruptions

willows (up to 500 m elevation) now has fragile ecosystems through better land-
increased importance. The vegetation cover use planning and development activities.
increases the surface roughness, lowers the Now the build-up of Icelands degraded
wind speed near the surface and limits the ecosystems has the additiona l aim of
damaging effects of wind erosion of tephra preventive measures to reduce the risk and
How Iceland responded to the volcanic disasters and future plans and ash material that is repeatedly blown
up into the atmosphere, years and even
vulnerability to natural hazards. aM

centuries after the eruption has ceased. Sagnagardur is the information- and

I celanders have had to deal with 205

volcanic eruptions since the island
was settled 1100 years ago. Recently the
Ash deposition can also affect hydrology
and air quality.
Nearby farming communities suffered
come. For example, there is the need to
strengthen existing vegetation; and the
destruction of grazing land calls for changes.
buried, seasonal timing, water availability,
toxicity etc. Vigorous ecosystems with tall
vegetation generally have greater endurance
Effective governance through alignment
of policies, e.g.: land use planning and
zoning, natural resources management,
visitor centre of the Soil Conservation
Service of Iceland.

worlds modern lifestyle also had a little damage to their fields, rangelands, livestock How well vegetation can tolerate this ash capability; the sheltering effect minimizes agricultural policies, mitigation action In Sagnagardur, which was opened in 2011, the
taste of this medicine when an eruption in and property where ash fallout occurred. disturbance, or how resilient ecosystems are the secondary wind transport of ash, and against climate change through revegetation history of ecological degradation and soil erosion
Eyjafjallajkull caused enormous disruption The uncertainty of the immediate effects of against deposition of volcanic ash depends hastens the incorporation of ash into the and carbon sequestration, restoration of in Iceland is presented in text and pictures.
to air travel across northern and western the hazard has now worn off. on various factors eg: the depth of burial, soil. Whereas when ash falls onto areas with natural birch forests, along with coherent The exhibition presents the battle against the
Europe over an initial period of six days The uncertaint y involved what was species capability of regeneration when little or no vegetation, it is unstable and easily legislation, multi-sectoral coordination with harsh forces of nature and consequences of
in April 2010, and again in 2011 when happening, where, for how long; health effective knowledge sharing, are important volcanic eruptions and gives an account of the
the Grmsvtn volcano erupted. Volcanic concerns; the flood risks; care concerns for in successful risk management. pioneers in land reclamation. Some light is shed
activity is prevalent in Iceland, with active people and animals with limited housing Recent eruptions clearly taught the on the general attitude and public disbelief in
regions covering 30% of the land and with c apacit y during t he la mbing period; value of assistance in emergency response, land reclamation during the early years and a
a historical eruption frequency of 2025 concerns ensuring livestock s access to r e c o v e r y m e a s u r e s a n d p r e v e nt i v e review is presented of the 100 year history of
events per 100 years. clean water and sufficient food; the difficult measures against natural hazards. The soil conservation and land reclamation efforts
There is considerable risk for tephra or living conditions when fi ne ash penetrates Soil Conser vation Ser vice of Icela nd in Iceland. Furthermore, the exhibition shows
ash deposits to occur, as 80% of historic everywhere. There were financial concerns, aided farming communities hit under the the approach and methods applied in todays
eruptions have been explosive eruptions all the decisions to be taken; whether to stay latest eruptions, as it had revegetated land soil conservation endeavours, major schemes
with tephra fallout. Ash can damage or or evacuate and, in areas further away, what available that could be used as emergency in land reclamation and ecosystem restoration
destroy vegetation by the initial direct the wind direction would be that day and gra zing la nd s, so livestock cou ld be are listed, as well as participation in international
burial or with sandblasting effects from who would be next? transported from the area most affected by programs.
post-eruptive transport either by water However today, months after the eruption the ash fall to temporarily safe rangeland
or wind, extending the area of inf luence has ceased, the effects are ongoing and will areas. Also, the Soil Conservation Service sagnagarur will be open 9:00-16:00,
June 1st - september 15th
far away from the initial deposition area. continue to affect the area in the years to of Iceland executed recovery measures over

18 19
Lighting
the night
The spectacular Northern Lights captured by Olgeir andrsson for all to enjoy

W inter in Icela nd is a complete

contrast to its summers. Those long
the solar cycle reaches its peak. Across
the entire country on almost every clear
Their shape and patterns change by the
moment and they really do appear to be Capturing the beauty of the Northern Lights
has been a life-long project for Olgeir

Immages: Olgeir Andrsson

summer nights, when the sun barely dips night, these brilliant, swirling lights in the dancing as they sweep across the sky. Whilst
below the horizon are replaced by darkness sky Th ere is never one night the same as they can be seen in Reykjavk, the city lights Andrsson. He travels for hours to find the
settling in early in the afternoons. However, another. They appear, dance across the sky dont allow their full beauty to be visible and spots he feels they will be at their best and
all is not blackness as the snows transform in a ballet of light, only to disappear as so it has become popular to take a tour out then spends hours filming them, sacrificing
the landscape into an ethereal picture of abruptly as they came. into the countryside or to travel to different sleep and comfort to get the best shots.
beauty unlike any other. Not only that, This will be the best time to view them and parts of the country to enjoy them. Over the years, he has developed numerous
but those frosty nights, when the skies are the time when the chance of viewing them Just as they are never the same any given techniques to portray both them and his
crystal clear, the unique Aurora Borealis can is higher than in past years. Experiencing night, so they appear differently according to surroundings at their best. Using a good
fill them with works of art that are constantly the Northern Lights display in person can where you are viewing them in the country. camera with long exposures, he has produced
changing in an entrancing display that draws be awesome. The nights generally need to Photos you see are a moment, frozen in time some stunning displays of this phenomenon
many to Iceland just to enjoy them. be chilly and clear. Any time from 6 pm of an event that will be very different just that most would never get the opportunity to
Th e 20122013 winter is expected to onwards, the Lights can appear, starting as a minute later. Thus, this is a performance see in their lifetime. He has become a master
provide the most spectacular season of a glow and frequently becoming so bright that can be enjoyed every night they appear, in his craft and his masterpieces could adorn
Northern Lights for the next decade as that everything around is clearly visible. often for hours at a time. asF
any art gallery, company or home.
Enjoy the Lights
What to Wear
Naturally, coming to Iceland in winter
How to Get the Best Pictures and Memories of the Northern Lights

The Lens good pictures but also for your own safety.
requires different clothing than the summer Secondly, a wide-angle lens is important to Icelandic weather can change very quickly
months. However, the weather is not usually be able to shoot as wide a picture as possible
and you dont want to be out on a distant
as bitter as in many other European or North to get the greatest impact. The faster the glacier in when a sudden snowstorm
American countries. Nevertheless, being lens, the better, of course. st ri ke s! I f you pla n to t ravel w it h a
out for several hours at night, standing and tour, they will know the weather report
watching or photographing the Northern A Tripod a nd t hey have good communications
Lights, you do need to be warmly dressed Given that you are going to be taking long equipment with them.
and especially, a warm hat, gloves, scarves, exposures, some solid form of stabilisation
socks and good shoes or boots. Of course, is essential. That means a good tripod. You Where to Go?
you can buy these here from the people who cant rely on a perfectly shaped rock to You will fi nd the Northern Lights all across
know the weather conditions the best. always be conveniently available and you the country but the main criterion for good
will not be happy if you miss these once-in- viewing is to be away from the lights of the out on the Reykjanes peninsula but he has
How to get the Best Photos The Camera number of consumer cameras that have a-lifetime shots! city. There are many spots not far from also been known to frequently travel to

Immages: Olgeir Andrsson

Olgeir has been taking photos of the Firstly, a simple point-and-shoot camera t h is fe at u re a nd it is not absolutely a town or city where the light pollution the West or the South to get those special
Northern Lights for many years and has wont give you the features you will need necessar y to have a professiona l level The Weather Report is not. However, because you will be pictures for which he is so famous.
developed techniques that make his photos for this specialist-type of photography. A camera. You may need to consider the The Icelandic Weather bureau issues daily shooting with long exposures, its especially Remember that the photos you take will
special. However, that doesnt mean that you digital SLR camera with exposure control working temperature of your camera if reports on the weather and the likelihood worthwhile taking the countryside into be a unique record. The same image will
cant take impressive photos yourself but that allows you to leave the shutter open you are planning to be out for long on a of viewing the Northern Lights and it is account so you will get photos of both never again be taken by anyone else. You will
there are some basics you will need. on a timer is best. There are an increasing particularly cold night. important to check thesenot only to get the landscape and the sky. Olgeir is often have that to treasure when you get home.

22 23
Europes Only Fish Tannery Leather from the Sea
Five Years from Fish Soup to Soft Leather Fabulous Fish Creations from Starinns Tannery

J une 10th marked the official opening of

Starinn, the last remaining Icelandic
tanner y and now economuseum. The
tanneries that were donated by Glaumbaer,
which collaborates in projects to preserve
Skagafjrurs history.
S potted leopard print leather in turquoise
a nd cha r treuse leaps from glossy
magazine pages. But these daring spots
cow or sheep leather with its variety of
patterns, which change according to the
species of fish. Wolf fish sports spots,
Still a skeptic? Then come take a look at
Starinn, Atlantic Leathers economuseum
in Saurkrkur. Guests can take a tour to
museum guides guests through the tanning Starinn uses fish skin, which would come from wolf fish tanned at Starinn, perch has rough and raw scales, while see the process firsthand and walk away with
process from stripping the fat off translucent otherwise be thrown away. Most of its fi sh Icelands only tannery. Shocking as it may salmon leather is thin and moulds to fit any some of the latest fish leather fashions.
fish skins to adding finishing details to dried skins come from a factory in Dalvk, a seem, fi sh is the latest trend in leather and contour. Though skins are dyed and treated
skins. The idea to start a museum came when town an hour away. The majority of skins has begun to climb its way from the bottom
visitors to the town of Sauarkrkur got are exported, but some Icelandic designers of the sea to the top fashion world.
wind that Europes only fish leather tannery have decided to work with the new material. Though the idea for using fish leather
was operating nearby. Last year, Starinn A shop in Starinn features products from is not novel, the process has been refi ned.
received between four and five thousand Icelandic designers and fish skins themselves Fish leather shoes were worn in Iceland
visitors. It was then that they had to decide for purchase. Traditional double hundreds of years ago, but their quality
whether to open their doors completely or face sheepskins, calf skins, was questionable. A popular joke was to ask
firmly shut the tannery to guests. and ostrich skins are also how many fi sh leather shoes it took to get to enhance their pattern, they are simply a
processed at the tannery. from one place to another. This dilemma soft and scentless version of natures original
A Crazy Invention was solved by the inventive Atlantic Leather design. All chemicals used in the tanning
Aided by IMPRA, a branch of the Icelandic Five years later, they had developed a process c o m p a n y, w h i c h and dyeing process are EU approved.
Innovation Centre committed to aiding and created Atlantic Leather. By 2000, their ta kes f ish sk in
companies starting new projects and work fish leather had the same softness as leather byproducts Out of Weakness, Made Strong
developed by entrepreneurs and inventors, from cows and no residual smell; the process from Dalvk, in The questions in everyones minds revolve
Starinn has grown from an experiment in was perfected and Starinn remained the North Iceland around the quality and durability of fish
the inventive search for new materials into only tannery left in Iceland. and turns them leather. Fish leather is surprisingly strong,
a rapidly developing for-profit museum. into skins that even stronger than other kinds of leather
While other tanneries struggled to compete A Rare View of Tanning can be made into because it has cross-hatched fibres rather
with each other, Starinn opted for a new Starinns determination has made it what shoes, bags, clothes than fibres that run in only one direction.
approach and began working with fish skins it is today and is part of the reason for Starinn KB and furniture. Despite the normally pungent smell of Atlantic Leather KB
in 1989. the econo-museum, which gives visitors a fish, the treatment eliminates any smell
People thought that we were crazy in rare view of tanning from start to finish. Borgarmri 5 550 Saurkrkur From Waste to Haute Couture so that few people can even recognise the Borgarmri 5 550 Saurkrkur
those early years, grins Gunnsteinn, owner Starinn combines their tannery tour with +354 512 8025 Couture clothing designers like Alexander difference between fi sh and other types of +354 453 59 10
of both companies working at Starinn: a historical overview of tanning in Iceland. gestastofa@sutarinn.is Wang, Sigerson & Morrison and Helmut leather. Better yet, fish leather is a byproduct atlanticleather@atlanticleather.is

Atlantic Leather and Loskinn. All we had Starinn has tools used in tanning, early www.sutarinn.is Lang have all bought skins from Atlantic of food processing so it creates value from www.atlanticleather.is

at first was thousands of litres of fish soup. photographs, and clothes produced from old Leather. Fish leather trumps more mundane something otherwise thrown away.

24 25
 Best in Birdwatching
Where and when to watch birds in Iceland Other target species
Iceland represents the southernmost limit of
mid-April to mid-May, when the nesting
season begins. This peaks in June, and peters
the Gulf Stream, while inland, some bodies
of water remain unfrozen throughout the

T op sites: You dont need to go far to

watch birds in Iceland as there are good
birdwatching sites almost anywhere, even in
the Westfjords, the Fli Nature Reserve in
southern Iceland and the Vestmannaeyjar
archipelago off the south coast. Perhaps the
the breeding range for several High Arctic
birds. Few places offer better opportunities
than Iceland to see Pink-footed Goose, Long-
out in July. Autumn migration lasts from
late July until the end of October.
Coastal seas, especially off the southwest,
winter due to geothermal springs or spring-
fed rivers, and so Icelands winter birdlife is
quite varied.
central Reykjavk. Among the places most most famous birdwatching site in Iceland, tailed Duck, Ptarmigan, Gyr Falcon, Red are relatively warm due to the influence of
regularly visited by overseas birdwatchers however, is the Mvatn-Lax area in north- Phalarope, Red-necked Phalarope, Glaucous The origins of Icelands birds
are the Snfellsnes peninsula in western east Iceland, where more species of duck Gull, Brnnichs Guillemot and Snow Bunting. Ic el a nd s f lor a a nd f au n a i s l a rgely

Images by Jhann li Hilmarsson

Iceland, the vast sea-cliff s at Ltrabjarg in breed than anywhere else in Europe, 14 Red Phalarope, Gyr Falcon and White-tailed European (Western Palearctic) in origin.
species in total, in addition to numerous Eagle all enjoy special protection and visiting a Several species, however, have colonised
other species. However, birds can be found nesting site of these species is strictly prohibited. the country from the west, and Iceland can
throughout the country and the best areas Another popular bird is the Atlantic Puffin, therefore said to be the meeting point of
are often close to water. Th is is especially which is best seen in the Westman Islands east and west. Iceland furthermore marks
true in winter, when birdwatching on the archipelago, the islands of Breiafjrur bay, the southern breeding limit for several
coast is almost always more rewarding than the cliffs at Ltrabjarg or in Borgarfjrur eystri. species and the northern limit for several
inland. Many European birdwatchers are others and, as such, is also the meeting
particular keen to see Icelands Big Four, When they can be seen point of north and south. JH

i.e. Harlequin Duck, Barrows Goldeneye, Birdwatching is an all-year activity in

Gyr Falcon and Brnnichs Guillemot, all of Iceland. The best time of year, in the view Jhann li is President of BirdLife Iceland
which are relatively easy to find at the right of the author, is from mid-April to the end and author of the Icelandic Bird Guide.
Translation by Edward B. Rickson
time of year or in the right areas. of June. Spring migration is at its peak from

26 27
 Sheep
S
The Icelandic

strong and hardy, Icelandic sheep contributed to the nations survival

heep. They seem to be everywhere,
wandering freely all over the mountains and
highlands as if they own the country. They are
forces: water, wind, fi re and ice, as well as
the encroachment of men and animals has,
in the course of time, disturbed the layer
their father is and on which dates his lambs
are due. Its important to know the date
of delivery so that he can keep the mother
indoors when she gives birth and to be able to
The Rttir (Round-up)
Farmers gather their flocks in the autumn.
Systematically, they round up the sheep all
over the country. There is practically no
After the sheep have been herded into
the correct pens they are divided up. Those
destined for the slaughterhouse are removed
from the flock. Those destined to live graze
one of the most common animals in Iceland. of surface vegetation. When destroyed, a shelter the newborns on their first days. Each place in the wilderness of the highlands of on fields on or near the farm, until November,
Icelandic sheep are so called shorttailed chain reaction of soil erosion begins which farmer has a special earmark, cut into one of Iceland where sheep cannot be found during when they are housed for the winter .
animals, an ancient Nordic Breed which was is difficult to stop. This shows how hard the the lambs ears soon after its birth. the summerexcept maybe on the glaciers. Sheep used to be sheared before they were
formerly common in the north part of Western struggle for survival has been in Iceland. This traditional book-keeping method The round-up is conducted on horseback or released to roam the pastures. Nowadays, most
Europe, but now only found in a few areas of The sheep has been called one of the keys would make it easy for farmers to provide on foot with the assistance of sheepdogs. The farmers shear them in winter when they are
the world. It is a strong, hardy breed which has to survival the country in the old times. The a genealogical tree of the meat you are entire process may take up to a week and, indoors, as this wool fetches a higher price.
adapted well to Icelandic conditions. animals could survive on winter grazing, and purchasing! Today, the lambs are also tagged during this time, participants stay overnight
The Icelandic sheep is special in many the people fed themselves on their meat and with modern plastic eartags. in mountain huts, where they pen in the A Valuable Resource
ways. Part of the breed is called leader milk and made warm clothes from the wool. Nowhere else in the world are sheep bred sheep they have gathered so far, then hang Wool wa s one of t he countr ys most
sheep and possesses unique qualities, not Since the last decades of the 20th century, steps by this method because in most countries the up their damp clothes, uncork their hip important exports during the Middle Ages
found in any other sheep breed in the world. have been taken to fight erosion by reforestation, sheep simply have their lambs outdoors and no flasks and swap stories and songs. (along with dried fish, known as stock fish).
Many stories have been told of their rescuing reseeding and other programmes to protect one knows anything about their genealogy. W hen the search is over and all the It became the basis of a valuable export
both men and other sheep from danger. sensitive areas from overuse by men and The lambs are born in May and stay with sheep are accounted for, the fat frisky industry again in the 20th century.
Around 1980, there were about 10 times animals. Government regulation now prohibits their mothers all summer long. After the first lambs, ewes and rams are herded down The fleece of the Icelandic sheep, which
more sheep than people in the country or unsustainable use of land. One of these steps few days indoors, they graze on grass fields on to the lowlands and into a corral called a varies in colour from white through grey and
around 2,000,000 sheep (including the has been to reduce the number of sheep so now the farm for 3-4 weeks. Then they are sent rttir, where they are identifi ed by their browns to near black, is made up of two layers.
summer lambs) and 226,948 inhabitants. there are 475,000 adult sheep in the country or out to graze the hills and mountain pastures earmarks and sorted into the correct pens, The inner layer of short, fine fibres, called thel
The number has now been reduced by 1,100,000, including the summer lambs. all over the country, running free until the belonging to individual farms. was used for knitting delicate laces, underwear
almost half, because of overgrazing in some middle of September, feeding on the rich and The rttir is a popular event across the and baby clothes while the coarser, longer,
cases but also market developments. Lambing Time nourishing vegetation. During the intervening country and most Icelanders like to take part outer fibres, called tog were used for warm
In former times, sheep were allowed to The mating season is in December. The time, the farmer harvests the hay to feed his in it, be they bureaucrats or bankers, school- and water resistant winter garments. Today
graze freely all year round, even in winter. farmer registers the individual matings, and sheep during the winter. Only about 1% of children or teachers, sailors or seamstresses. the soft spun lopi wool is used in traditionally
This had disastrous effects when the climate their dates. So when the lambing season Iceland is cultivated. This means that most of Some travel compa nies of fer foreign patterned hand knitted sweaters, the most
became cooler. The interaction of natural starts, he can look into his book to see who the grass and plants the sheep feed on is wild. travellers the opportunity to participate also. popular souvenirs from Iceland. aMB

28 29
Tender is the meat
It is Lamb-season in Iceland when the years fresh meat is celebrated throughout the country
Nutritional Facts
In an environment where consumers are
increasingly conscious of their health,
fo o d mu s t b e s a fe to e at , pu re a nd
nutritious. For these reasons, Icelandic
carca ss weighs around 16 kg (35 lbs).
The muscle ha s a hig h propor tion of
Omega-3 fatt y acids a nd iron, giving
t he me at it s w i ld g a me f lavou r. T he
distinctive taste is a result of the wild

I celanders love their lamb and autumn

is the traditional lamb-season with
t he 4 5 mont h- old l i ve s to c k b e i n g
Sheep farming in Iceland is as old as the
settlement of Iceland itself. To this day
farmers are rearing their sheep by a method
clean air and an abundant supply of fresh
mountain water make the use of pesticides
and herbicides unnecessary. The cool climate
l a m b me a t i s b e c om i n g r e c o g n i s e d
t hroughout t he world for its hea lt hy
nutritional value and unique taste. The
pastures; the grass and the aromatic and
spicy herbs on which the lambs graze.
Some subt le d if ferences have been
slaughtered after roaming the highlands established by centuries of tradition, with protects the land against many diseases and Icelandic sheep is a direct descendant of noted between the f lavour of meat from
t h r o u g h o ut t h e s u m m e r. C l o s e r t o most farms still family-owned and operated. pests which plague agriculture in warmer the sheep first brought to the island by the la mbs g ra zing in t he h ig h la nd s, t he
ga me tha n fa rm-a nima ls, the meat is The breed is still the same as in the time of latitudes. Due to Icelands geographical Viking settlers. It has not been crossbred lowlands, and by the seashore. The meat
exceptionally tender, its texture fine and the Vikingssturdy small animals, well isolation and agricultura l regulation, by importing other breeds. is very tender and has a fine texture due
nutritious enough to have carried many adapted to the environment. which prohibits the importing of live T he cold climate inf luence s t he to its high amount of red muscle fibres,
an Icelander, adult and child, through animals, many common animal diseases are c omposit ion of t he pla nt s t he sheep which is inf luenced both by the breed
relentlessly harsh winters. The Protective Cold unknown in Iceland. gra ze on. The la mbs a lso move freely and its grazing habits. The tenderness is
Much of Icelands lamb production is The lambs are entirely reared outdoors. t h r ou g h e x t e n s i ve w i ld p a s t u r e s i n enhanced by electrical stimulation and
Traditional Quality simply based on sustainable harvesting Their natural diet of sedge, willow, thrift, prist ine mou nt a inou s la nd sc ape s. strict control of chilling rates.
When producing high quality meat, you of the bounties of nature. The use of mass campion, and berries makes the This, a nd t he young a ge at slaughter A nd the best thing about the
need unpolluted raw materials and Icelandic hormones is prohibited and antibiotics are Icelandic lamb instantly recognizable for its (4 5 mont hs), gives t he meat unique Icelandic lamb: It is the perfect match
sheep farmers can guarantee as much. strictly regulated. The Icelandic weather, delicious and distinctive taste. qu a l it y a nd proper t ie s. T he aver a ge to any kind of herbs and spices. ss

30 31
 drawn to the Romanticist and Reform
movements like the Unitarian church. He
read the works of Ralph Waldo Emerson
and was said to be Icelands most able
proponent of the liberal religious position.
He tra nslated ma ny work s from
different languages, including a number of
Shakespeares works, but it was his prolific
poetry that made him popular. He wrote
his most famous poem for the 1,000 year
celebration of Inglfur rnasons pioneering
of the country. This was destined to become

Halldr Laxness
Icelands national anthem.
He was the first poet to be granted a

The Nobel Prize-winning Writer from Iceland

pension and the title of National Poet by
the Alingi, the Icelandic governing body
in 1900, when he retired as a clergyman.
Through his religious poetr y, hymns
and funeral elegies, along with his heroic
H alldr Laxness (1902-1998) stands as a
luminary amongst the other Icelandic
writers of the 20th century. He was a prolific
The Writings of a Master
In the 1920s, he wrote a modernist novel
with a surrealist overlay, The Great Weaver
narrative poems, he continued to preach author during his long career, writing 13 from Kashmir (1927), as well as progressive
Christian faith and humanity. major novels, five plays and a dramatisation poetry, while in the 1930s, he wrote social

Men who Made Iceland

of one of his novels, not to mention his realist novels, including Independent People
collections of short stories, essays and (1934-35) about Bjartur, the farmer of

Matthas Jochumsson, poet and writer of Icelands national anthem

memoirs. His books have been translated Summerhouses, the story of a man who sowed
into 43 languages and published in more his enemys field all his life, day and night.

T he Westfjords have produced some

of Icelands outstanding leaders in
different fields, particularly in the 19 th
The play tells the story of the outlaw Skugga
and his companions and their conflicts with
the locals, and was inspired by the stories of
than 500 editions. His career was unique,
the diversity of his works almost without
parallel and, with every book, he can be said
Such is the story of the most independent
man in the country, as it says in the book. In
the 1940s, he embarked on historical novels,
centur y, at a time when ma ny of the outlaws living in the Icelandic wilderness. It to have approached his readers from a new his works. He began his writing career as
including Icelands Bell, his contribution to
worlds greatest names were born. has since been performed many times and and unexpected direction. Icelands campaign for independence, which a Catholic, then turned to socialism, but
Matthas Jochumsson (11. November, Matthas, who had been planning to become a was published 1943-46. Among other well later lost interest in all dogmaexcept
1835 18. December, 1920) was born on businessman, discovered his love of languages known works by Laxness are World Light perhaps Taoism. He never attempted
the Skgar farm on the south part of the and literature that was to define his life. to disown the ea rlier views which he
(1937-40), The Atom Station (1948), The Fish
Westfjords to a poor farming family. He did On graduating, he became a priest but, Can Sing (1957) and Paradise Reclaimed s ub s e quent ly re pud i ate d , re g a rd i n g
not begin school until a comparatively late when he lost his second wife, it led to great them instead as an instructive part of his
(1960). Laxness wrote absurdist plays in the
age when his talents were recognised and mental anguish and a reconsideration of psychological development. Yet, from the
1960s and, 40 years after The Great Weaver
he attended the Latin School in Reykjavk. his religious beliefs. He took a break from from Kashmir and, at nearly 70 years old, earliest period to the latest, it is possible
During the Christmas holiday in 1861, the priesthood for some years, becoming to detect the same basic themes in his
he began to flirt anew with the modernist in
he wrote a play called, The Outlaws the editor of the most popular weekly books. He looked at things differently
novel, along with a new generation of Icelandic
which his fellow students per formed Icelandic journal, jlfur. novelists, in Under the Glacier (1968). from ot her people, his writings were
the following year. It became an instant Although he returned to the Lutheran He moved to the northern town of Akureyri, often barbed, and yet he always managed
success, thereby distinguishing Matthas priesthood, his was a liberal thinking in where he built a house in 1903, where he lived Ideals and Beliefs to see the comic aspects of his characters
a s a m ajor p o e t , w h ic h m a rk e d t he contrast to the harsh religious dogmatism until his death. The house is now open as a Laxness ideals and beliefs changed with a nd t heir actions. His sympat hy wa s
beginning of modern Icelandic drama. of the day. He travelled extensively, being museum and study centre. asf time, as ref lected to a certain extent in invariably with the underdog. ss

32 33
 On graduating, he was given a grant to
do scientific research in Iceland, which gave
him the opportunity to follow his interest
in botany. He had only really just begun to
formulate his ideas when he fell down the stairs
at his home in Denmark. Blood poisoning set
in and led to his untimely death.

A Literary Legacy
Thus, it is for his poetry that he is best
known, rather than his scientific work.
He first published many of his poems in
Fjlnir. His poetry expresses his love for his
country, its beauty and landscapes that so

Image by Gabriel Rosenberg

influenced his early life, in particular. He
is considered to be a founding father of the

Men Who Made Iceland

Icelandic Romanticist movement and his
style completely changed the direction and

Jnas Hallgrmsson changed the face of Icelandic poetry

form of Icelandic poetry, breathing new life
and vigour into its expression.

Men Who Made Iceland

inventions in agriculture and industry.
W it h i n 6 m o nt h s , h e r e c e i v e d t h e M any of Icelands greatest heroes were
not fearsome warriors but all were
and natural sciences, excelling in both.
Revolutionary fervour was sweeping Europe,
Such was his inf luence on Icelandic
literature that his birthday, 16 th zof

Skli Magnsson
Danish kings approval. fighters for what they passionately believed with independence movements fighting for November, is celebrated a s Icela ndic
He bec a me k now n a s T he Fat her in. They were not from the cities, as Iceland freedom from the established order. With Language Day. Each year, the Minister of

T here are a number of people who

had a great influence on the nation
through their lives and work.
Weigh it right - meaning to cheat the poor
customers. This made him very angry and he
swore to use his life to replace the dishonest
of R e ykjav k a nd wa s t he on ly one
bringing news and information to the
country. Reykjavk was little more than
didnt possess any. Their education was
not in a monolithic ediface, churning out
spiritless robots but in the home and the
three friends, he founded a magazine, Fjlnir,
for which he wrote for the rest of his life. Its
goal was to inspire patriotism in Iceland.
Education gives the Jnas Hallgrmsson
Award to an author in recognition of their
contribution to Icelandic literature. asf
In the 1700s, Iceland was under Danish rule. merchants and set up a trading system to a smattering of houses, farms and fields fields and on the sea, where character was
They held a trading monopoly and the merchants improve the living standards of the people. at this time. built in the face of adversity.
were often corrupt, whilst the communities were In 1732-34, he studied at Copenhagen Skli built simple factories, focussing Jnas Hallgrmsson was born the third of
small and wielded little economic power. university, though he didnt gain his degree. o n a g r i c u l t u r a l m a c h i n e r y, s u l f u r four children in 1807 in the beautiful valley
Sk l i Ma g n sson (1711-1794) wa s Instead, he took a position in South Iceland pro c e s si n g , a wo ol we av i n g c e nt re , of xnadalur, a narrow dale enclosed on both
born in the remote village of Keldunes in as the county magistrate before moving 3 dyei n g , rop e -m a k i n g , le at her work, sides by high mountains with jagged peaks.
North-East Iceland. His family moved to years later to Skagafjrur in the north. shipbuilding a nd f ishing. He wa nted Fr o m t h e s e h u m b l e b e g i n n i n g s ,
Hsavk, where his father was a priest. In the first year in his new position, a Dutch Icelanders to use decked boats so they surrounded by a culture of oral story-telling
As a teenager, he worked in a Danish trading ship foundered in the fjrd. Skli, on could fish in deeper seas, increase their of folklore, poetry and sagas, in the pristine
merchants company, learning the way business discovering the sailors illegally trading with catches with less risk to life than the open beauty of the nature he would later write
was conducted. The merchant told him to the local people, seized their ship and its cargo rowing boats used at the time. about, he rose in his short lifetime to become
which he used to build the village of Akrar. T he on ly bu i ld i ng f rom t h at t i me the nations most loved and popular poet.
He also procured new type for the printer, s t i l l s t a n d i n g i s A a l s t r t i 10 , i n
enabling the printshop to run the year round. Reykjavk s centre, which operated as A Stale Diet
His vision was to use his wealth and a factory until 1803. From the sagas of the Middle Ages, Icelandic
power to destroy the corrupt system and It t hen bec a me a private residence poetry had fallen into a stale regimen of
strengthen the country. In Skagafjrur, where some of Icelands most prominent pathos and criticism. Even the poems of
he sued one of the monopolistic merchants c it i z en s h ave s t aye d , i nc lud i n g Jn Jnas role model, Eggert lafsson, who
for selling poor iron and mouldy f lour Sigursson, the leader of the 19th century broke new ground with his writing, are
and for selling over the maximum price Ic e l a nd ic i nd e p e nd e nc e move me nt . considered stale and dull by comparison.
allowed. He won the case and became A r ou nd 2 0 0 0, t he c on s e r v a t ion i s t s Jnas was schooled for six years at the Latin
very popular with the people. renovating it wanted a business ref lecting school in Bessastair, now the home of the
He was known as Skli fgeti as he was the Sklis spirit of innovation and design to Icelandic president, with a rigorous training
king of Denmarks representative and when use it. Kraum was the company chosen. in Latin and Greek classics that would stand
the countrys Danish Governor was dismissed Skli set up a farm on Viey island and him in good stead. He developed an interest
in 1749 for drunkeness and bankrupcy, Skli built Vieyjarstofa as his official house in science that was ahead of his time but
was appointed to his positionthe first between 1753-55. He worked tirelessly didnt live long enough to codify his ideas.
Icelander to become Governor. before finally retiring in 1793. He died
He moved sout h to B e ssa st air i n the following year. University in Revolution
1750 a nd e s t a bl i s he d a c om merc i a l In 1954 a statue of Skli Magnusson was In 1832, he sailed to Copenhagen, where
enterprise in competition with the Danes erected to commemorate the centenary of he started studying law at the university.
which would make enhancements and free trade in Iceland. asf After 4 years, he switched to literature

34 35
 Hall of Fire in rich red with black
Th e radical design extends to each of the trimmings. Even up in the gods in the upper
four halls, whose names correspond to the gallery, the sound quality was amazing. Every
elements of air, earth, fi re and water. word was crystal clear. A lot of work has gone
Eldborg or Fire Castle, named after the into the advanced system of controls for the
famous volcanic crater in the East of Iceland, sound quality. The seating is very comfortable.
is the grand concert hall, seating up to 1800 However, the experience is not just in
guests, providing a dramatic backdrop to the hall. There are large, open areas on each
any production or event. floor for socialising, flowing staircases with
ingenious small lounges set at different levels
Northern Lights fill the air along their length - and then, there is the
Representing air, Norurljs or Northern view. Part of Harpa is built out into the
Lights is a smaller recital hall, whose harbour. This is where its glass faade comes
vivid blue decor is equally as dramatic. into its own, with its uninterrupted view
The colouring can be conf igured with over the harbour and bay to the mountain
different themes to create the optimum range of Esja beyond. The view in almost
atmosphere and ambiance. It is an ideal any weather is beautiful - and when the
location for conferences, concerts by rainbows arch over the bay, it is stunning.
sinfoniettas, chamber groups, jazz bands
or similar performances, receptions and A Vibrant Inspiration of Top Artists
ot her such events. The ha ll, situated A wide range of events take place at Harpa
between Eldborg and Silfurberg can be and performers have included British pop
connected to them for larger events. sensation Jamie Cullum; German tenor Jonas
Kaufmann; world renowned pianist Maria
Earths Translucent Crystal Joao Pires, violinist and conductor Maxim
Silfurberg, representing earth, is Harpas Vengerov, conductor Gustavo Dudame and
conference hall. Its name comes from a crystal the Gothenburg Symphony Orchestra. With
of translucent calcite that is rarely found other the annual Airwaves music festival, Bjrk
than in Iceland. It can accommodate up to and Yoko Ono have received rave reviews for
750 seated guests. The stage is movable and their performances. Upcoming events include
expandable. The hall can be divided into two You Are In Control and Eve Online Fanfest.
parts, each accommodating 325 seated guests, Already, since its opening in May 2011, over
with a soundproofed retractable partition. The 350,000 guests have attended events there -
hall is very suitable for all types of conferences, more than the total population of Iceland.
receptions or concerts, especially if they are
amplified. It is specially designed as a conference State of the Art Facilities
hall and features the best available technological There is an underground car park, so guests
equipment. The acoustics are adapted to the are unaffected by inclement weather and all

A Cultural Celbration
spoken word and are configurable. the services are in the top echelons of such
international venues, including a state-of-the-
Water - the Changeable Element art Business Centre, with high-speed Internet
Kaldalon or Cold Lagoon representing connections and translators booths with the
water, is named after the beautiful blue bay provision of headsets, where applicable.

The Harpa Concert and Conference Centre opens to wide acclaim

in the Westfjords. It is the birthplace of one of There are three quality restaurants in
Icelands most celebrated songwriters, Sigvaldi Harpa and, being in the centre, all of the
Kaldalns. This is the smallest of the halls, citys other restaurants are close by.
seating just under 200 guests. Coloured yellow,
the scheme can nonetheless be changed to The New Icon of the North
match the theme of the event. It is well suited As the Opera House in Sydney became

T he opening of a new concert hall in any

country is a very prestigious event. It
never ceases to amaze people that a country
Glass like Crystallised Basalt Columns and consists of quasi bricks inspired by
The spectacular glass building would not
be out of place in one of the worlds largest
crystalised basalt columns, such as those
found at Skgarfoss waterfall. Natural
for all types of music, as well as for conferences,
meetings, film screenings, and lectures with a
moveable stage and a floor that can be used as
synonymous with Australia, so Harpa is
destined to become an iconic symbol of
Icelandic culture.
of 300,000 people - thats a country, not a cities but for it to be in Icelands capital, light is a key element in the design as the a stage, as well. It features collapsible writing Harpan asF
town or a city - can have such a rich cultural with a population of under 120,000, is changing daylight alters the ref lectivity tables and power outlets for use with laptops.
life. Art galleries abound, theatres, schools all the more remarkable and testament and colours of the glass. At night, when Inglfsgarur 101 Reykjavk
for each of the performing arts and now, the to the emphasis this country puts upon the faade is lit, the whole building glows The Harpa Experience +354 528 5008
jewel in Reykjavks crown: the new concert the cultural aspects of life. The unique dra matica lly a ga inst t he back ground What is Harpa actually like? I attended the concerts@harpa.is

and conference hall complex, situated right g la ss fa ade wa s de signed by la f u r of the harbour and, across the bay, the centennial anniversary of the University of www.harpa.is

on the waterfront by Reykjavks harbour. Elasson and Henning Larsen Architects mountains of Esja. Iceland held in Eldborg. The decor is dramatic

36 37
 The Call
of the Wild
Enter the lives of the seamen and shermen at Reykjavks Maritime Museum, Vkin

T he sea has helped the Icelanders survive

down through the centuries but it
imagine just what it must have been like to
go out in a small open boat, rowing for your
they were landed, manys the time that they
would also go out on the boats to ensure
impossible, due to the weather. It carried
doctors, nurses, supplies and rescue workers
hasnt been a free ride. Whilst shoals of fish life when the skies filled with storms and their familys livelihood and very survival. from Reykjavk in atrocious, violently
swim the oceans surrounding this remote the waves rose as high as houses. It was a With the modernisation and mechanisation stormy weather when an avalanche struck Today, the inn is a living museum Theres nothing sterile about this museum.
northern country, getting them to the dining battle for survival that everyone took part of the fishing industry, conditions have in the Westfjords, serving as a base of rescue that visitors can tour. It has the feeling Its an action museum where visitors get the
table can be challenging, to say the least. in together - men, women and children. The improved considerably. Using real and operations while there. of being lived in, with everything still in feeling of becoming part of the seafaring
Icelands fishing grounds have provided a communities pulled together and worked reconstructed collections and dramatic When Iceland had to defend its fishing place from its times of active duty. Th is community. This is heightened when meeting
rich harvest for generations of fishermen but together to harvest the seas bounty. The video footage, the museum gives a very rights in each of the three Cod Wars, it was the provides a very special opportunity to see some of the former crew of the inn who
often, the cost has been very high. young grew into responsibilities at an early clear understanding of Icelands maritime inn that fended off British frigates, trawlers what life is like on the high seas for adults regularly get together in the museums cafeteria
Until recent years, almost all international age in this tough environment. Though the history down through the years, covering and tug boats and enforced the fishing limits and children alike. A DVD story of its with wives (or husbands) and friends.
trade was conducted by sea. In todays women generally took care of the hard work each of its periods with its hands-on realistic designed to protect fish stocks that were being history, available in the museums shop, The museum is located at Grandi - just
industrialised world, most people know of processing and cleaning of the fi sh once exhibitions. Where else could you jump into severely depleted by foreign fishing boats. makes very interesting viewing. at the end of the road that runs along the
little of the life of the seaman and the a fishermans bed without upsetting someone? harbour, and a 5-minute walk from the
fi sherman and their communities. Th eir It was not only the fishermen who braved centre of town and it is open daily in winter,
fi sh appears in the supermarkets in shrink- the seas but also the Icelandic coastguard, from Tuesday to Friday from 11am to 5pm,
wrapped polystyrene packets. So its a part of whose role was to rescue ships that weekends from 1pm to 5pm. Summer
special experience to enter into the world got in distress. For all those that were lost in opening times are from daily from 10am to
and lives of the fishermen and sailors - the wild storms and winter blizzards, there 6pm, from 1st June1st September.
something that brings out a childhood were many more that were rescued. Just in Vkin Sjminjasafn asF
Immages Gabriel Rutenberg

wonder at being able to see, touch, feel the 46-year service of the inn, the fi rst
and even dress like they did. modern Icelandic coastguard ship, over 200 Grandagarur 8 101 Reykjavk
The Icelandic Maritime Museum is filled ships were rescued and more crews were +354 517 9400
with the feeling of life with the sea. You can saved, often in extreme weather conditions. sjominjasafn@sjominjasafn.is

see how former generations struggled with Its crew also took part in rescue operations www.sjominjasafn.is

the challenges and the boats they used. You when la nd tra nspor t wa s practic a l ly

38 39
Art in forment
From placid landscape beginnings to a dynamic diversity Returning to Iceland, many artists planted the

I n a country where culture plays a major

role, art has been held in high regard.
Nonetheless, it has had a tumultuous history,
was an awakening for the nation. sgrmur
Jnsson wrote in 1903 about the importance
of a nation having its own artists, if only to
seeds in others who were to take art in different
directions. They faced strong opposition from
several sections of society.
In 1965, an exhibition was held under the
name of SM, a movement that was soon to
shake up the art scene in the sixties. Some
as aficionados and artists alike struggled to teach the public to appreciate the beauty of In 1925, Finnur Jnsson returned to of its members were invited to exhibit in the
come to terms with a changing world and nature around us Iceland, holding an exhibition in Caf Pompidou in Paris at its opening in 1977. dialogues and embracing latest technological until, in 1988, it found its home opposite the
changing definitions of what is considered art. However, only two years later, mirroring Rsenberg. This was the first major exhibit In the 1990s, video art made its debut developments by digitising its collection with pond next to Frkirkja - the church that
Iceland was under Danish rule at the end of the spirit of independence in the country, of avant-garde abstract art. and visitors found a new expression through a view to making it available on the Internet. borders the lake. It is housed in what used to be
the 19th century, when revolutionary fervour the struggle to break free from a restrictive Around 1930, artists began investigating new interactive participation in works of art. Exhibitions and lecturers travel the country an frozen fish storage. A dramatic glass addition
was sweeping Europe and the desire for inde- concept of art was already beginning, a themes and methods of modern art. Nonetheless, the stormy debate over the years so everyone can benefit from them, no matter highlights its modern outlook.
pendence was expressed in bloody upheavals struggle that was to continue to the present 1940-41 were characterised by much debate has barely abated, with every push in a new how remote they are from the capital. Schools It is open daily from 11 am to 5 pm, except
in many countries. Icelands drive for freedom day, with young new artists continually about the character and substance of art that split direction leading to debate and controversy, pay regular visits and special attention is Mondays and visitors will find it well worth

Images by Gabriel Rutenberg

was lead by the wise counsel and argument of seeking new expression, interpretation and the Icelandic art world for decades following. with each generation of artists pushing the devoted to them, as it will be from them that taking some time there. There is a bookstore
Jn Sigursson in the courts of the Danish forms for their art. Some politicians demanded art be easily envelope to discover new means of expression. the next generation of artists will arise. with many beautiful publications and a range
king while art was expressing an Icelandic At the end of the 19th century and in understood and in close connection to nature, Icelands short, but rich history is evident Then and Now is an exhibition that of interesting articles and upstairs, a caf
identity to its people through its landscapes. the beginning of the 20th, most aspiring whilst numerous artists wanted to see modern in the number of works the Gallery has - not gives an overview of the countrys art history serves delicious meals and snacks.
Founded in 1884, the National Gallery artists went to Copenhagen to further art that emphasised the role of structure, form to mention those hanging in official buildings with samples from each time and genre. It asF
Listasafn slands
of Iceland exhibited works in Parliament their studies. The vibrant art scene there and colour find a place in Icelandic art, which and embassies worldwide. With over 10,000 demonstrates how much effort is put into
House. A rtists travelled the countr y, was in the throes of a rebellion by young resulted in a lot of experimentation. works to choose from, a number that is every aspect of each exhibition. Frkirkjuvegi 7 101 Reykjavk
painting its beauty for the public to see. For a r tist s a g a inst trad itiona l a r t st yles. The late 1950s saw two major artists bring growing with contributions from upcoming The National Gallery has moved several +354 515 9600
many, it was the first time to see the nations I nter n at ion a l e x h i bit ion s were he ld dramatic new themes to the art world here: artists, the Gallery maintains a high level times. From the Parliament, it moved to the list@listasafn.is

natural treasures. Travel was difficult and frequently, offering an opportunity for Erro introducing Pop art and Dieter Roth, of interest from the public by having top floor of a new building designed for it and www.listasafn.is

few undertook the arduous treks, so this new inspiration and direction. the Fluxus movement. regularly changing exhibitions, educational for the National Museum next to the university

40 41
 Reykjavk Art Museum
Where It all started
A lthough Iceland is a young nation in
terms of art history, youd be surprised
to discover the quality and unique character of
The Kjarvalsstair museum is dedicated
to permanent exhibitions of Kjar vals
work s, a sizable portion of which he
Icelands finest artists. Reykjavk Art Museum donated to the city of Reykjavk before his
offers the chance to experience the best of death, as well as exhibitions of paintings,
classic and contemporary art in Iceland in one scu lptures a nd design by established
enlightening day. The museum is situated in Icelandic and international artists.
three different buildings in the city centre:
Hafnarhs, Kjarvalsstair and smundarsafn,
each with its own theme and character.

The Must-See
Those wondering who the stately gentleman
staring at you from the 2,000 krnur bill is,
would be well advised to visit Kjarvalsstair,
housing the work of Icelands most beloved Err, The Grand Children of Mao, 2007
rni Bartels Hrefna Vglundsdttir painter, Jhannes S. Kjarval (1885-1972). Kjarval, Mountain Milk, 1941
While it is hard not to be inspired by Icelands the Mediterranean, the domed buildings
colourful landscape, few have managed to Get With the Times of the Middle East, and the pyramids of
capture its essence and tie it so securely into the W hile Kjar valsstair covers the more Egypt. smundurs sculptures can be found
Icelandic psyche as Kjarval did. conventional forms of artistic expression, surrounding the house and on the inside,
A m on g t h e d o z e n s o f c e l e b r a t e d Hafnarhsi has the liberty to experiment making a magical land inspired by Icelandic
paintings youll fi nd now on display the a nd ta ke on a mbitious projects with landscapes, literature and its people.
exquisite Fjallamjlk, which Icelandic art contemporary artists from all over the world.
scholars claim has contributed more to the While Hafnarhsi has six different All in One Day
Icelandic identity than any other painting, galleries devoted to the most exciting current The famous landscapes of Iceland are well
making it an absolute must-see and worth happenings, one of them is dedicated to a known and easily accessible, but only
the trip to Kjarvalsstair by itself. permanent exhibition of the works of Err, through the eye of the artistic mind can one
the acclaimed pop-artist who has donated fully comprehend their significance to the
over 2,000 works to the museum. nations identity, making it an unmissable
Being located close to the city centre in an part of your discovery of Iceland. Reykjavk
intriguing building and due to its ambitious Art Museum off ers its guests a chance to
undertakings, Hafnarhsi has become a do it all in one day with their museum day
Helena Morland Helena Morland center of-sorts for the creative arts in Reykjavk. passes. What really makes it an outing
worth your time is that it also gives you
The Hidden Pearl the chance to experience the culture of
Probably the least known of the three Reykjavk while you stroll between the
buildings is smundarsafn, which is quite museums and relax in their coffee shops
remarkable considering that it is dedicated where patrons of the arts spend their time.
to the wonders of one of Icelands foremost You can even get souvenirs and informative
sculptors, smundur Sveinsson (1893-1982). books to commemorate your day.
The museum is housed in a unique Look out for Reykjavk Art Museums
building, designed mostly by the artist autumn programme for upcoming exhibitions.

Contemporary Art in Iceland

himself, who sought inspiration from www.artmuseum.is VaG

Hafnarhs, Tryggvagata 17, 101 Reykjavk

R eykjavk A rt Ga ller y is Iceland s

largest art gallery. The gallery exhibits
and sells artwork by about 20 active artists
Reykjavk Art Gallery is open every
day from 12 to 18.
Reykjavk Art Gallery
at any given time. The many different
artists all offer their unique version of Sklagata 30 101 Reykjavk
contemporary Icelandic art. +354 893 6653
The gallery welcomes the Swedish artist thsteinn@simnet.is

Helena Morland, who works with Icelandic www.Reykjavkart.is

##
landscapes, to its ranks. Kjarvalsstair, Flkagata, 105 Reykjavk smunarsafn, by Sigtn, 105 Reykjavk

42 43
Treasures
I
and Riches
t is always a special experience to visit a
new country and to see its sights and enjoy
all that makes it different from ones own. Its
culture, its people, the beauty of its landscape
people and country, from the early days of
the Settlement right through to modern
times. It offers a fascinating perspective
on m a ny a spec t s of l i fe a nd societ y
crossed the unpredictable ocean with the
most rudimentary of instrumentation from
their Viking homeland to the high-tech
airport of today, handling many thousands
The National Museum Holds the Nations Wealth
Craftsmen Before the Age of Plastics
Between the two cultures, the Celts, with
their writing and the Vikings with their
craftsmanship, a rich tapestry of life has
from a young age all the way up to university
students, with each presentation being both
geared to their age and maturity level and
the national curriculum.
and its man-made creations. throughout Icelands short history. of travellers. Using about 2,000 objects and been handed down to us today. Children visiting with their parents can
However, its true wealth lies in what has Being the last European country to be 1,000 photographs, this is the next best Temporary exhibitions add an additional enjoy the quizzes and hand-outs the teachers
made it what it is today as each generation has populated, Iceland doesnt have the relics thing to personal time travel. perspective on Icelands heritage, with have madeas well as having fun dressing
added their own contribution to the countrys of the Romans, the architecture of the When visiting the museum, you can opt thousands of photographs showing life over up and re-enacting lives of the past.
heritage. What you see in todays society is Greeks or the dynasties of China. What it to take one of four themed routes through the last century. For example, there is an This is the way to learn histor y The museum offers refreshments and a
the result of all its previous generations and possesses is a unique mingling of two very the exhibition: Work and the Way of Life; exhibit containing a range of ornamentally- hands on and seeing it first hand. The shop so you can continue your time travelling.

Images by Gabriel Rutenberg

is what makes it truly unique. diverse cultures, living under incredibly Homes and Settlement Patterns; Arts and carved drinking horns. Your imagination multimedia presentations build on the Iceland values its historical narrative highly
The National Museum of Iceland is located difficult conditions and the powerful story Crafts; Social Culture and Language. can take you back to see the care and skill of displays to provide adults and children and the National Museum is but the first step
next to the University of Iceland and holds a of their struggles and overcoming great To enrich your experience, there are the craftsman at work, transforming these a l i k e w it h a f a s c i n a t i n g , e n g a g i n g in a journey that will take you around the
sample of the lives previous generations have adversity to become the independent nation multimedia presentations that allow you to gain bovine horns into objects of artpractical experience that educates without you country. It provides a foundation that puts
left. Here is where you will gain so much Iceland is today, with its rich culture. Many
greater insight and active involvement in a more drinking goblets that have disappeared from even knowing it! everything else in context.
greater insight of what makes Iceland today people fi nd its cultural diversity absolutely
immersive experience. Likewise, there are two modern mass-produced plastic society. jminjasafn slands
asF
and the value attached to each individuals life. incredible for a population so small. rooms that are especially popular with families Stay for a Day in Time
on the second floor which are dedicated to History is for Children You can choose how long and how much you Suurgata 41 101 Reykjavk
A Young Nation with a Mature History Travel Through Time hands-on experiences. Dress like a Viking; have a Mu s e u m s c a n m a k e a v e r y s p e c i a l want to get into the details of the exhibition +354 530 2200
The Making of a Nation is the museums The exhibition is conceived as a journey mock sword fight; try out some of the puzzles and contribution to a childs development. but even a cursory look will take some time. thjodminjasafn@thjodminjasafn.is

perma nent ex hibition, displaying the through time, beginning with an example gamesand come away with a new perspective Recognising t hat, museum educators For those wanting an in-depth view, you will www.thjodminjasafn.is

herita ge a nd histor y of t he Icela ndic of one of the ships in which early settlers on the country through the best medium: fun! make presentations for schoolchildren undoubtedly want to stay longer.

44 45
 ReykjavikArea The Greater
The Cosmopolitan Capital - where History and Culture meet todays world

O
ne of the worlds smaller capitals, Reykjavk
is surrounded by the towns of Seltjarnarnes,
Kpavogur, Garabr, lftanes, where the President
Map lafur Valsson
lives, Hafnarfjrur and the country town of Mosfellsbr,
combining to make up the Greater Reykjavk area.
It is also one of Europes youngest capitals. Founded
by the first permanent Viking settler in the 900s, Inglfur
Arnarson, it has grown from a handful of houses a few
centuries ago to a compact and thriving metropolis.
The National Museum holds the history of the nation,
while the National Library, just opposite it, has the nations
books and records. There are many art galleries and museums
throughout the area and the new concert hall complex by
Reykjavks harbour, Harpa, has a full programme each month.
Innovation and inspiration play a major role in the citys
life. From here, visitors can reach the whole country. The
countryside is always very close by. Activities such as tours,
whale- or bird-watching, fishing, swimming, hiking, biking
and horse-riding are very popular.
Theres even ice skating. On weekends especially, the
city is filled with nightlife that continues till morning.
There are plenty of pubs and restaurants with both
genuine Icelandic food and international cuisines.
So you never need to go hungry. From youth hostel
to guesthouses and hotels, theres accommodation for
every budget. Clubbing in downtown Reykjavk
Photos; courtesy of the Reykjavk Marketing Office.

46 47
Gay Pride in Reykjavik

Hellisgeri park in Hafnarfjrur By Varm river in Mosfellsbr

The sculpture Adonis by Bertel Thorvaldsen

Displays in The National Museum of Iceland, jminjasafni Ducks by the pond The Pearl restaurant in Reykjavik
 Enjoying nature in Mosfellsdalur

The artistic Viking ship in Reykjavik By the old harbour of Reykjavik

Bessastair, the presidential residence Swimmingpool at Mosfellsbr

 REYKJAVK

SELTJARNARNES

KPAVOGUR

LFTANES

The Greater Reykjavik Area MAP LAFUR VALSSON

The Greater Reykjavik Area

H ow to get to know a country when you are famous meeting between

only here for a week or two? Its a dilemma Reagan and Gorbachev took place in 1986,
which many people solve by taking advantage of Elliar river and Laugardalur valley.
the tours to the major places of interest. The tour finishes in time for you to choose
where you would like to eat your evening meal.
Dont forget the home base By then, you will have had the opportunity to
In Iceland, there is simply so much that you build up quite a photo collection. Its a popular
will never find anywhere else that it can tour that runs every day of the week.
seem a little overwhelming. To give you a
good foundation and start to your holiday,
its a good idea to look at the capital itself.
Here, there is much to see and do - but you
could waste a lot of time wandering.
Reykjavik Excursions has two tours that give
you a perspective of not only the capital, but
the country itself, which will help you make
the most of your stay. These are fascinating A Sense of Reykjavik
tours that encompass history, nature, the Between Thursdays and Saturdays, there is also
main attractions and popular spots. a 3-hour early evening tour that uncovers more
of the history of the capital - past and living,
taking you first of all to Seltjarnarnes where you
can see how close to nature Reykjavik is. This is
especially of interest to bird lovers, but everyone
will find the variety of both the birdlife and
flora to be quite amazing both in a country so
far north and less than 10 minutes from the city
centre, where the tour moves to next.
Taking advantage of the warm, light summer
Reykjavik Grand Excursion evenings, you stroll through parts of the town
An afternoon tour, 3 hours long, this begins that even long-time residents may have missed.
with a pick-up at your hotel. Reykjavik is not Having grown from a small fishing village, the
a large city, nonetheless, it can take awhile to old and the new mingle together, fascinating
both get your bearings and make your way from galleries next to enticing restaurants - at two
one spot to another. On a tour like this, you of which you pop in to try their delicacies.
dont want to be stuck in a bus, just gawking at You quickly get an appreciation for both
the sites; you want to experience them. So this Icelandic culture and the international
tour uses the bus to quickly get you from site variety that makes up the city today.
to site, with a guide using the opportunity You see the old preserved and renovated to
to give you an insight into the many varied fill new roles. Nowhere is this more evident
aspects of the life and history of the city. than at the oldest house in Reykjavik and the
Its a fascinating tour, filled with anecdotes, old harbour, where the bright green, former
folk tales, fun facts and history. In this short fishermens huts have found a whole range of

Something
time, you get an appreciation for much of the new purposes, from jewellery workshops to gift
town and what it contains, so you can then shops to Viking speciality stores to bustling
more knowledgeably use your stay. restaurants and cafs. This is a popular spot
you will doubtless want to revisit.

old and new

These tours give you such a good overview of
the capital in all its aspects that you will have a
list to follow up on by the time the tour returns
you to your hotel. Youll just be left wondering
how to fit everything inwhich is why so many
make return trips to discover more.
Reykjavik Excursions asF

Reykjavik Excursions reveals the heart of Reykjavik

You visit the key landmarks, such as BSI Bus Terminal 101 Reykjavk
Hallgrmskirkja and The Pearl, overlooking +354 580 5400
the city, Reykjavik City Hall and the main@re.is

University of Iceland. It also delves into the www.re.is

unusual, such as Hfi House, where the

54 55
The Greater Reykjavik Area

Well meet in the Pool

Laugardalslaugthe most popular swimming pool in Reykjavik
S wimming in one of Reykjaviks seven
geothermal swimming pools and the
unique Ylstrnd geothermal beach is very
indoor pool for training and competition,
a childrens pool with slightly warmer water
than the main pool, 3 childrens water
a distance of 7 m without falling into the
water. Finally, the tallest waterslide at
Laugardalslaug swimming pool has been
Pool etiquette
It is considered very important to shower
naked and wash thoroughly before entering
near Reykjavik. The quality of the water is
inspected four times a day by the pool staff
and four times a year by independent health
invigorating. The pools, which are open all slides, a wipe-out-style challenge, 7 hot revamped and now has LED-lights in the the pool for hygiene reasons. Visitors who and safety inspectors. The clean natural
year, attract nearly 2 million visitors and tubs of various temperatures and a steam ceiling for a part of the ride. dont conform may have one of the staff, or geothermal water and regular inspection
Stefan Helgi Valsson

for a good reason! Enjoy soaking in the bath. In addition, it is possible to order a even guests ask them to do so. Most people ensures the highest water quality possible.
warm water originating from a geothermal massage prior to your visit. Great place to meet the locals leave their towel behind in a special area
drill hole within the city limits. Swimming pools and hot tubs are an near the showers while they go into the Laugardalslaug opens at 06:30 in the morning
New at the pool in 2012 important meeting place for local people pool. Bath robes and sandals are hardly and closes at 22:00 at night on week days in
Cool like a pool A s a lt w ater hot t ub ju s t op ene d i n of all ages. Many of the most frequent ever seen around pools but people with long summer. Saturdays and Sundays it is open from
Reykjaviks swimming pools are defi nitely The largest hot tub in Laugardalslaug Laugardalslaug. It is the first one of its visitors come to the pool fi rst and foremost hair are expected to wear a shower cap. Be 8 in the morning. The price in 2012 is 500 kr. for
coolas in hip. The water in the main pool swimming pool has space for 50 people. kind in Iceland. The saltwater comes from to socia lise rat her to e xercise. T he y considerate to other swimmers. Try not adults and 120 kr. for children under the age of
is about 29 Celsius / 83 Fahrenheit which a drill hole near the sea on the northern typically come to the pool on a certain to swim in a lane with faster swimmers so 18. Disabled and senior citizens go free.
is quite comfortable. In warmer countries Reykjaviks most popular pool side of the Reykjavik peninsula, about one day of the week and time of day when they wont have to overtake you. When it
people jump into the pool to cool off Laugardalslaug Olympic size swimming kilometre from the pool. Th e saltwater is they know their friends are there, too. looks like youre going to swim into a person Laugardalslaug sHV
here in Iceland, it is exactly the opposite. pool is the largest and most popular pool in cold when it comes from the ground but Because nearly everyone in Iceland enjoys youre supposed to veer to the right.
You want to jump in to keep warm! The Iceland. Originally built in 1968 and since it is heated to 40C. Children love the going to the pool you might bump into Sundlaugarvegur 104 Reykjavk
childrens pool is even warmer than the renovated periodically, it was visited by new wipe-out style iceberg challenge Icelands most famous singer, the mayor Great water quality +354 411 5100
main pool and if that is not warm enough, 750,000 people in 2011. The main pool has which consists of a mesh of ropes overhead of Reykjavik, pop stars, TV-personalities, The water in Reykjaviks swimming pools

Oddur Albertson
laugardalslaug@itr.is

then you have 7 hot tubs to choose from several 50 m lanes for casual swimming, and iceberg-like fl oats in the water. Th e actors, members of parliament, university is of the highest quality. It comes from www.swimminginiceland.com

ranging in temperature from 37C to 43C. exercise and competition. There is an challenge is to walk on the icebergs over lecturers and students. drill holes in three diff erent areas, in and

56 57
The Greater Reykjavik Area

Enter the Volcanic Caf

Feel the shakes and Tremors of Earthquakes and Volcanos

W hat is it like living on a small island

where eruptions occur on average
every four years and earthquakes of various
a fi lm about the eruption in the Westman
Islands in 1973. The second one, The
Volcano Island, by the Icelandic film maker
sizes occur daily, is a question Icelanders are Jn Sigfsson, is a documentary on the

An Icelandic Icon
frequently asked. An island where ice and Eyjafjallajkull eruption in 2010, nominated
A Weekend Hotspot fi re are constantly battling, moulding and for the 2011 Emmy Award for outstanding

The Heart of Reykjavik City

Come the weekend, Caf Paris turns into reshaping the islands appearance and the location cinematography.
a sophisticated bar with live jazz music islanders mood and emotions. The only The Westma n Isla nd documenta r y

T he spacious but intimate Caf Paris is

a caf and a restaurant known for first-
class service and bistro-style meals, primarily
A Landmark for all
Caf Paris is a city landmark meaning
different things to different people. Its a
playing from 11 pm. The atmosphere is a
unique fusion of a Parisian jazz club and
a sophisticated Icelandic wine bar. The
reply we can give is: We wouldnt know how
to survive in a country which is not alive.
But if you are curious about the reality
contains unforgettable footage from the 1973
eruption which started without warning in
the middle of the night on January 23rd .
made using fresh local produce, in the heart of place where artists contemplate in solitude, wide variety of imaginative cocktails is the of the Icelandic life-force enter the Volcano The entire populationover five thousand
the city centre, Austurvllur. Austurvllur is where writers busily document t heir creation of ambitious bartenders who aim House, a caf in the centre of Reykjavik individualswere evacuated by boat to the
Icelands Champ du Mars, where locals relax thoughts on a laptop, where politicians to impress with their blend of rich flavours. and experience for yourself the impact of an Icelandic mainland where they stayed until
on warm summer afternoons, overlooked by escape heated debates and share a quiet eruption or an earthquake while enjoying a the end of the eruption seven months later.
the Icelandic House of Parliament and the moment together, where young adults cup of tea or coffee, or munching on a slice The documentary contains truly dramatic
Cathedral Church, Dmkirkjan. giggle and smile over Mocha and sweetened of cake or homemade bread. and unforgettable footage. An Exhibition from the Ground
Its long history and esteemed reputation Latte, where young mothers share a slice Volcano House is no ordinary caf. It is The Eyjafjallajkull eruption caused A large collection of semi-precious rocks
has contributed to it being one of the most of a homemade chocolate cake and creamy also a cinema and a museum, specialising millions of people to be stranded across and minerals from around the country
successful restaurants and cafs in all of coffee, where students gather to celebrate in the tremors and shakes, the colours, Eu rope due to t hou sa nd s of f l ig ht s are also on display and are available for
Iceland. In 2012, Caf Paris celebrated its and where hungr y travellers come to the smells and the touch of living in this being cancelled over several weeks. This purchase. Volcano House off ers guidance
twentieth anniversary and guests were asked experience the Icelandic bistro culture. strange, remote corner of the world. documentary contains some breathtaking and information throughout the exhibition
for their feedback to help the management In summer, the tables outdoors facing Volcano House in-house cinema offers aerial views and footage and is truly a gem. which is particularly interesting for school
continue to offer the highest standards. t h e Pa r l i a m e nt a r e a l w a y s p a c k e d . two backtoback documentaries. First up, Additionally, Volcano House offers a groups and students of geology. Volcano
Since its inception, Ca f Pa ris ha s Sheltered from the North Atlantic breeze, handson geology exhibition where guests House occupies an enviable location in the
had a professional staff providing great days of sunshine in the very heart of the can handle various samples of pumice, ash heart of Reykjavik, with large bay windows
service, knowledgeable about the menu, city are hard to resist, and the well-trained and lava from Icelandic volcanos. overlooking the colourful old harbour. It
wine, cocktail and coffee selections and and experienced staff make sure no one C a f Pa r i s c ater s to a l l a g e s a nd is open seven days a week from 10.00 to
the mouth-watering desserts. goes hungry or thirsty. nationalities. Caf Paris may seem to be a 22.00. The documentaries in English can
Parisian caf in Reykjavik but local culinary be viewed hourly from 10.00 to 21.00.
Eat in style traditions and fresh Icelandic produce are at German language commentary is available
There is nothing like the house white wine the heart of this Reykjavik bistro. for groups or private screenings.
boiled mussels and a glass of Pinot Grigio on a JB ss
Caf Paris Volcano House
beautiful sunny day, or a succulent burger with
Images Gabriel Rutenberg

a bun fresh out of the oven and ice-cold beer. Austurstrti 14 101 Reykjavk Tryggvagata 11 101 Reykjavik
For dessert, the house speciality is a French +354 551 1020 +354 555 1900
chocolate cakefreshly baked in houseand cafeparis@cafeparis.is info@volcanohouse.is

best served with deluxe coffee. The wellkept www.cafeparis.is www.volcanohouse.is

secret recipe is legendary in Reykjavik.

58 59
The Greater Reykjavik Area

fi sh and vegetable soups served with freshly

baked bread are offered. Try the smoked
salmon on toast, or the always fresh catch
of the day, fi shed right from the waters of
Faxafli Bay. A steaming bowl of plokkfiskur,
a traditionally Icelandic fish stew, is just the
thing to warm you after an afternoon of
whale watching at the Old Harbour.

A Changing of the Seasons

Caf Haiti is great place to do some
people watching, for its as popular with

The Brave get the Best

which sounded revolting, and from them, tourists as it is with Icelanders. You might
made mea ls t hat have established his Welcome to the enticing and inviting Caf Haiti even spot a well known Icelandic celebrity

The Sea Barons Fish Meals attract visitors from all over the world
reputation around the world.
Kjartans restaurant is popular with the I n autumn, when the weather inevitably baked croissant or two, for this is one of the or two while youre at it. Enjoy!
starts cooling down, Caf Haiti serves few places in the downtown area that opens Caf Haiti EMV

I cela nd ha s ma ny d if ferent foods

which have their roots in seafaring
history. Th e Vikings came up with many
of the worlds greatest lobster soup. While
he doesnt reveal the secrets of his recipe,
that doesnt stop his restaurant from being
fi shermen who sailed for many years from
Reykjavik. It is filled with memorabilia
donated by old sea captains and their
as one of those cosy, unpretentious places for breakfast8.30 am to be precise. There
where you can pop in to warm your toes and is also an enticing array of home baked cakes
enjoy an excellent cup of coffee from beans and pastries should you feel the inclination
Geirsgata 7a 101 Reykjavk

+354 588 8484

novel ways of preserving their foods and fi lled every day with afficianados. families, that fill it with a character all roasted every morning right on the premises. for a little something sweet. kaf@cafe-haiti.com
www.cafe-haiti.com
their traditions continue to this day. He entered the restaurant business by its own. Handmade model sailing boats, Here you can start your day early with a hot The laid back atmosphere is a lso a
Some of these foods sound unappealing, chance. One day, when standing by his boxes pictures of ships of the past and stuff ed latte or cappuccino, along with a freshly favourite with locals for lunchquiche,
to say the least, and it takes the daring soul of fish, some foreign visitors asked if he could birds fill the second f loors walls, where

Harbourside Sushi
to step out and try them. Iceland is for the prepare some fish for them. Spotting an groups of up to 35 can celebrate together
adventurous and they reap the benefits of opportunity, he ran to the nearest hardware and where the fishermen used to sleep

SushismijanMidori, a Top Class Restaurant at the Old Harbour

the brave. The timid stick to burgers! store to buy a grilland was in business! His when coming to land.
visitors were invited to dine in his shop in this
A True Fisherman
A former fisherman and Coast Guard chef,
Kjartan Halldrsson, also known as the Sea
improbable restaurant. Word quickly spread
and soon he was shifting his boxes out of the
way to make room for tables and chairs.
Dining as a Seafaring Experience
Eating at the polished tables, sitting on
cushioned f ish barrels, surrounded by
I n one of the bright green buildings down
at the old harbour is Sushismijan, a
bright and busy sushi restaurant.
Baron, is the master of unusual fish dishes. He took the unusual and created delicious paraphernalia of the sea, is an experience Serving a range of tasty sushi dishes
His lobster soup, for example, has gained meals that no-one else had thought of t h at w i l l le ave you w it h bot h good with sake, wine or beer, this is a ver y sushi cannot be beaten for quality and flavour
fame around the world, earning it the title tr ying. He took old recipes, some of memorie s, a sat isf ied appet ite a nd popular eating and meeting place. and its presentation is top class.
perhaps, a rather shocked mind that you Sitting on the patio on a cool autumn day, The menu offers Makis, Nigiris and
would actually have eaten fermented fi sh enjoying a delicious sushi and the view over the Sashimis, along with a mixed vegetable sushi
and that it tasted so, so good. harbour to Mount Esja across the bay, this is and different childrens dishes. Japanese
the life! For freshness, the harbour is the place noodles with chicken, vegetables or Tiger
Smoked in Succulence to be. The combination of Icelandic fish and prawns, fi sh or miso soup, seafood or beef
A true pioneer, Kjartan is always coming salad round out the main courses. For
up new ideas. Besides the smoked eel, desert, there is chocolate cake with cream,
Kjartan has taken to smoking mackerel and ice cream and fresh berry smoothies.
the special grey halibut, the delicious flat The restaurant is open from 11:30 am
fi sh with both eyes on top. His technique to 11 pm. Take-away meals can be ordered
imbibes the fish with a delicious flavour that by phone or on the web. They cater for
has to be tasted to be believed. companies, parties and lunches, too.
Sgreinn ASF Sushismijan ASF

Geirsgata 8 101 Reykjavk Geirsgtu 3 101 Reykjavik

+354 553 1500 +354 517 3366

info@saegreinn.is sushismidjan@sushismidjan.is
www.saegreinn.is www.sushismidjan.is

60 61
The Greater Reykjavik Area Pizzeria tel. 578 8555 Lkjargata 8 Downtown

Probably the best pizza

in town

A Gourmet Experience
Steaks and Style at Argentna Steakhouse
I celand is a land of secrets, waiting
to be discovered. For those who love
good food, wines and spirits, the only
of the rustic, Argentinean-style decor,
the music and the tantalising aromas.
Enjoying a drink from the large selection
give-away is a f lag hanging above two of fine wines and spirits stocked at the www.gamlasmidjan.is
gates on a side-street just off Laugavegurs bar in front of the fire crackling in the
shopping street. Here, at the end of a dark hearth, relaxing in the comfortable chairs
hallway is a large wooden door with an of one of the lounges, provides the perfect
ornate handle that opens into one of the ambiance to the start of your evening. Char grilled to perfection, the steaks are
most popular and respected restaurants in Steaks are the hallmark of Argentnas complemented by the red and white wine
Iceland. Popular, that is, with people in cuisine. Icelandic beef is untouched by selection from all the major countries and
the know. Th is hidden epicurean jewel has drugs, additives or steroids. They have been regions, or Champagne and sparkling wines, all
been sought out by visitors from all over genetically unaltered over the 1,000 years served by attentive waiters and waitresses. The
the world for the past 22 years! since the first settlers. Allowed to grow desert menu complements the main meal with its
Argentna Steakhouse won the coveted slowly, they have developed just the right range of both Icelandic and international choices.
Restaurant of the Year award in 2000 with amount of fat necessary for the meat to There is no incentive to rush out once you
good reason. You are not just offered a meal, grill perfectly and the muscles are fi ner, so have finished your meal. There are plenty of
as this is not an eat-and-run restaurant but the steak is succulent and tender. Icelandic comfortable couches and chairs in which to
an evenings gourmet experience. No matter lamb is renowned for its unspoilt, natural relax and enjoy an after-dinner glass of quality
what your choice from the menu, you are growth as they roam unrestrained in the cognac, whiskey, port or liqueurs. Argentna
guaranteed a meal to remember for its mountain wilderness pastures, also free is also the most popular venue to buy cigars,
presentation, flavour, texture and originality. from additives or hormones, colouring though the restaurant is now a smoke-free area.
However, the meal is the culmination of or enhancers a nd t h at show s i n it s Although the restaurant can seat up to
that experience. Before anything touches tenderness and taste! Also on the menu 120 guests, including two banquet rooms
your taste buds, your other senses are is a w ide ra nge of c a ref u l ly selec ted that seat up to 16 and 20 guests respectively,
immersed in the rich leather and wood, fresh seafood, shellf ish and lobster, to Fridays and Saturdays should be booked in
the intimate lighting and atmosphere provide a choice for every palate. advance. It is open Sunday-Thursday from
6 pm to midnight and on Friday-Saturday
from 5:30 pm to 1 am. (The kitchen closes
90 mins. before closing time.)
Argentna ASF
Immages Gabriel Rutenberg

Grandakaffi
Barnsstgur 11 A 101 Reykjavk
Welcome to
+354 551 9555 Opening hours
salur@argentina.is weekdays 06.00 - 18.00
www.argentina.is serving hot lunch at noon Saturday 06.00 - 14.00
Grandagari 101 101 Reykjavk +354 552 9094

62
The Greater Reykjavik Area

Drawings of a Frenchman
The room is sma ll a nd cosy a nd t he
decor is great. Ulfar just bought antique
origina l drawings by Auguste Mayer.
French painter, lithographer and prolifi c
illustrator, he created, before the days of

The Chefs Subtle Blend

digital cameras, drawings, photo-realistic
l a nd s c a p e s a nd m a r i ne a n i m a l s , i n
particular, when he led an expedition to
rr Frakkar Hj Ulfari fuses Icelandic and French cuisine
Art to Enjoy and Own
Iceland in 1836. You can fi nd his drawings

I n the historic heart of Reykjavik is a small

haven for lovers of good food. Behind a
red faade, the rr Frakkar restaurant is a
A Mysterious Name
Ulfar Eysteinsson and his family bought
the restaurant in 1989, just when the ban on
of fi sh on the walls in the dining room.

Find Fine Art at Galler List

romantic and intimate dining room and sun
room reminiscent of a bistro in the Saint-
Michel district of Paris, with an added
drinking beer in Iceland was ended. He kept
the name of the restaurant, which means
both 3 French people and 3 raincoats,
A rt is a major part of Icelandic culture.
There are probably more artists,
musicians, writers and poets per capita
growing reputation as the leading art house
in the city. Gunnar was able to completely
redesign the interior and its lighting to best
from graphics, watercolours, oil paintings
and acrylics to ceramics, porcelain and glass,
the art aficionado can experience the full
Icelandic touch. Chef Ulfar Eysteinsson referring to the former owners who were than in any other countr y. Walk into exhibit each picture. With its high ceilings, wealth of Icelandic artistry under one roof.
has managed a skillful fusion of French and all French and who chose, as their logo, a almost any house or business and there will large works can now be displayed in the best In addition, the Galler also holds a
Icelandic cuisine, almost exclusively using drawing of three raincoats to play on the usually be at least one work of art hanging ambience. The Galler is currently housed monthly exhibition devoted to either new
fresh Icelandic ingredients. double meaning, where frakkar means there, as many of those who are not artists in the spacious ground f loor of Skipholt or established Icelandic talent. Gunnar
Renowned for his specialization and both French people and raincoats. themselves tend to be collectors or patrons. 50a, an elegant modern round house, just a says that variety is the spice of life and,
creativity with fresh fi sh, Ulfar has earned Galler List is the longest running and stones throw from Reykjaviks main street, in the case of Galler List, it seems to be a
a reputation as one of Iceland s most most successful art house in town. Since Laugavegur. Exquisitely lit in a sweeping successful route, as well. I think one of the
skilled chefs in marrying local traditions 1987 and, under its current owner, Gunnar open space design, Galler List showcases keys to our longevity in a competitive world
with refi ned French cuisine. Helgason, it has gone from strength to the cream of Icelandic artistic talent. is the diversity of our collections.
A Gem of a Find strength. A few years ago, a move was The works of between sixty and eighty We pr ide ou r s e lve s on ou r w ide
The restaurant has, among its regular made to its current and larger home to Icelandic artists are on display at any given customer base with something to suit all
patrons, the current President of Iceland, accommodate their growing collection, and time. With all the major media represented, artistic tastes, he says. The same philosophy
Olafur Ragnar Grimsson. The restaurant extends to the price tags, and of course
ensures delivery of meals every week to his professional packaging and international
official home, Bessastair. shipping is available upon request.
The rr Frakkar hj Ulfari is truly one From the expert art collector to the more
of the hidden gems of Reykjavik, where modest, but conscientious gift shopper, there
Icelandic cuisine and family culture meet always something unique for everyone at
for the taste buds to be tantalised! Galler List that makes a visit worthwhile.
rr Frakkar JB Galler List ASF

Baldursgata 14 101 Reykjavik Skipholti 50A 105 Reykjavk

+354 552 3939 +354 581 4020

frakkar@islandia.is gallerilist@gallerilist.is
www.3frakkar.com www.gallerilist.is

64 65
The Greater Reykjavik Area

Leather Designer
Ladies handbags, earrings and necklaces
Flavours of the Orient Q uality Icelandic design and leather
handcraft is much sought after. My
accessory collection. I wanted to use the
leather cut-off s for something useful, when
All the Tastes of Thailand down by Reykjaviks Harbour first leather design was a handbag painted I came up with the idea to use them to make

N ot ma ny Icela nders travelled to

Thailand during the last century but
those who did, discovered a whole new world
a totally different meal and you are in for a
delicious dining experience. The stories that
filtered back to Iceland sounded like tall tales
with colourful artwork and patterns,
says Gurn Stefnsdttir, a successful
independent architect who found a second
jewelleryearrings and necklaces.
Gurns Ark Art leather jewellery is
recognisable by her use of thin leather
of culinary delights. With a large range to many local folk, however. career in creative leather designs. Gurn rings or squares and use of colours. It is a
of vegetables and new fruits every month, In 2001, all that changed. Sonya opened designs leather handbags and now shes sophisticated yet simple design, skilfully
Thailand is a culinary heaven. Add the special Krua Thai in the white house directly across added necklaces and earrings to her Ark Art using geometric shapes and colours.
spices that change the same ingredients into from the old harbour. The small restaurant
seemed a curiosity at first until word quickly
spread: that Thai food is the most flavourful
and delicious form of cooking known to man!
All the spices and specialities are imported
directly from Thailand along with many of
the ingredients. However, they are blended Gur n graduated from t he Roya l
with Icelandic meats and fresh vegetables School of Architecture in Denmark in
to create a unique fl avour of Th ai cuisine, 1986. A f ter work ing at an architects
brought together by experienced Thai cooks of f ice, she sta rted her own business.
and their assistants. All the food is cooked Ive worked on some amazing projects,
on the spot to order, so its the freshest it can My family and I lived in Thailand for many ranging from large buildings to single
be. Visiting Thai tourists are commonly seen years and always enjoyed the wide range of family homes. My favourite projects are
eating there testimony to the quality. Thai cooking. What we didnt expect was those where I design everything from A-Z
The restaurant is cosy and small. Entering to find a restaurant in Iceland that matched for private homes. Th ose projects would
it is walking in to another world, as it is the best we had experienced in Asia, as the typically involve the house and interior
decorated as a restaurant in Thailand would addition of Icelands well-known meats and design, the landscaping around the house
be. It seats between 30 40, making it ideal fresh vegetables adds that special touch that and the furniture inside.
for groups. However, its popularity quickly cannot be found elsewhere. You will not want The Ark Art collection is available at
outgrew its size and, in 2007, a second to leave Iceland without experiencing a meal the National Art Gallery, Sds jewellery
restaurant was opened close to the Smralind in Krua Thai but be warned, it is addictive shop at Reykjavik s Old Harbour and
shopping centre that also provided home and youll find yourself wanting to try all the direct ly from Gurn. More info on
deliveries. This restaurant in Bjarlind seats dishes on the extensive menu! facebook: Ark.art leather design.
40 50 comfortably. Take away meals are Krua Thai ASF Arkart NHH
available from both restaurants.
For special group events, the restaurants Tryggvagtu 14 101 Reykjavk Draghls 10 110 Reykjavk
have a specialist who decorates the tables +354 561 0039 +354 551 5533
with unique Th ai food decorations, taking kruathai@kruathai.is arkgunna@simnet.is

different fruits and vegetables and carving www.kruathai.is www.arkart.is

them into beautiful works of art.

66 67
The Greater Reykjavik Area

The Aesthetic Wonderland

The Little Christmas Shop that is Festive All Year Round

A nne Helen, owner of The Little

Christmas Shop on Reykjaviks main
shopping street, Laugarvegur, is what you
In the Land of Eternal Christmas
Anne Helen, a genuine aesthete, says she
has always had somewhat of a Christmas
might call a one woman wonder. When frenzy and an intense passion for things
she lost her job in tourism ten years ago, she of beauty. She never goes for anything
decided it was time for a change and turned average but hunts for things of quality
to doing what she does better than most of that truly stand out. Though she imports
us; making the world a prettier place, one merchandise from all over Europe, her
Christmas ball at a time. a mbition is to specia lise in Icela ndic
handiwork and ornaments. She already
ha s a n e x tensive c ol lec t ion for sa le, Anne Helen loves is to tell customers
most made exclusively for her by artists, about Icelandic Christmas traditions.

Focus on Fashion
each having a distinctive approach and Visitors often stop by simply because theyve
working in materials as different as wool, heard of her hospitality and the shops

Top Designers are Developing Fashion for Men and Women at Kraum
glass and clay. In addition to customary friendly atmosphere. They rarely leave empty
Christmas ornaments, she includes local handed. After all, placing an Icelandic Santa

I celand is a country with inspiration in

its blood. It pours out through an ever
increasing number of talented designs for
Odinn, they look really stylish. A range of
pants complements them, making an ideal
ensemble whether for business or partying.
folklore figures, like the thirteen Santas
and the Christmas Cat.
on your Christmas tree every year is a great
way to remember your visit to Iceland.
H
Litla Jlabin
everything from the humble pancake pan to
the latest developments in fish skin to make A Mecca for the Unique Laugarvegi 8 Reykjavk
top quality men and womens shoes. The Vikings were renowned for their +354 552 2412
When Kraum fi rst opened in Reykjavik, engineering and craftsmanship skills that none

a group of just 30 designers presented their their descendants have amplified over the none

ideas. Their number has swelled to more years, producing a range of unique ideas and
than 200 all over the country and the range designs, skillfully using both common and
of products has multiplied likewise. unusual materials in totally new ways.
Whether it is living jewellery or a stool Searching for a memorable gift for
Designed with Men in Mind that is a light or a shaggy lambskin seat, someone special, the choice from over 200
Womens clothing and accessories found a butterf ly formed by the play of light designers could seem a little overwhelming
a natural home in the shop but the latest and shadow or a pair of fishskin shoes, but the way the shop is laid out, it is easy and
development is for mens designer clothing it is immediately obvious that each is the quick to fi nd what youre looking foror
to join them. Starting with a range of shirts, work of a thoughtful, inspired designer, even fi nd something you didnt know you
named after Huginn & Muninn (The Mind c r e a t i n g s ome t h i n g ne ve r f ou nd i n were looking for but which fits the bill more
and The Memory), the ravens of Norse god, todays mass-produced world. precisely than you could have hoped.
Being designer products, they are designed In Reykjanesbr, In Reykjavk In Reykjavk
i
to be easily shipped. Kraum can handle it for Keflavk, ureyr Garastrti 6 lfabakka 12
you if you have too much to take on your Hafnargata 50 In Ak ur 1b In Reykjavk
lund at Mjdd
flight and, if you forgot something, it is easy Hrsa n e
Charity shop open
Eyjasl 7,
Charity shop open op op weekdays 13-18
to order from their website, too. ity sh 8 by the harbor Charity shop open
Tue - Fr i 11-17 Char days 13-1 Tuesdays, Wednesdays
week Phonenumber: 561 3277
Phonenumber: 421 4433 and Fridays 13-18
7090 r: 462 Charity shop
Finding Kraum enum
be
weekdays 13
open (open Thursdays
& Hertex- Phon -18 from 20.December!)
The oldest building in Reykjavik, originally
lukkupotturinn Phonenumbe Phonenumber: 844 6188
built by the Icelandic reformer, Skli r: 858 5908
Magnsson as a factory to produce goods for Vallargata 14
his needy countrymen, is found by Inglfstorg, Open Thursdays 13-
18
the square just down from the Post Office and and Saturdays 12-17
it is there you will find Kraum.
Kraum ASF

Aalstrti 10 101 Reykjavk

+354 517 7797

kraum@kraum.is
Get a Bargain and Make a Difference by Supporting
www.kraum.is

the Salvation Armys youth and welfare program!

Hjlprisherinn Kirkjustrti 2 101 Reykjavk 552 0788 Island@herinn.is www.herinn.is
68
The Greater Reykjavik Area

Custom-made Beauty
Sds also makes pieces embodying the
wishes of clients using whatever metal
t he y re que s t , m a k i n g a u n ique a nd

Handknitters United
precious gift from the heart.
She also sells quality fish leather products and

Jewels & Art by the Sea

fine art pieces by significant Icelandic artists.
Youll find her creations for sale online The One Stop Shop for All Things Woollen at the Handknitting Assn.
Sds hand crafts jewellery in her studio at the Old Harbour
at saedis.etsy.com and through her website,
where you can order from abroad but if youre S heep came to Iceland with the Viking
settlers and they quickly proved their
important supplement to many family
incomes and shortly thereafter, opened a

F or centuries, jewellery has had a special Sds, whose name means Goddess of in Reykjavk, a visit to her open workshop
place in the heart. An object of art and the Sea, works with all the precious metals, and gallery is a worthwhile experience.
beauty, a gift of love to be treasured. To which she combines with gemstones, blue, Sds the Jeweller ASF
worth, not only for their meat but also their
wool. Living conditions were very basic and
especially tough in the cold and dark winter
shop to sell their members woollen goods
on Sklavrustgur, the main shopping
street that descends from Hallgrmskirkja,
find craftsman-made jewellery is a rarity in appropriately, being her favourite and Icelandic months. Sheep helped keep the settlers alive. the cathedral overlooking the city.
todays mass-produced world. stones like the lava stone. Her respect for the Geirsgata 5b 101 Reykjavk These Icelandic sheep have two types of As the name indicates, these woollen its distinctive scalloped pattern, which
Sds creates designs that range from the environment and a strong emphasis on quality +354 555 6087 fleecean outer, weather and water repellant creations are hand made in Iceland, using has become so popular worldwide, but
most feminine to pieces for both men and is evident in all aspects of her work. She uses saedis@saedis.is layer and a soft, warm f leece close to the Icelandic wool. The motto from the outset numerous young Icelandic designers have
women. They evoke images of Icelands most green practices in choosing her elaborately www.saedisbauer.com
skin. Combined, they have provided warm has been, Buy directly from the people also turned their attention to wool as a
distinct symbols, nature and pure water. handcrafted materials and fair trade stones. clothing for farmers and seamen, adults, who make them. Walking into the shop, medium of choice for their fashion designs,
children and babies for centuries. Making one cannot help but be amazed at the skill resulting in new products, st yles and
sweaters became a tradition in farmhouses, and productivity of these ladiesand some colours. There is a wide range of sweaters,
cottages and houses around the country. men, too, from all walks of life, living in all gloves, hats, scarves, socks, bags and many
The Handknitting Association of Iceland parts of the country. Every item has that other items in sizes to suit everyone from
was founded in 1977 to help overcome sense of individual uniqueness that only a Viking warrior (or farmer) to a pretty
problems that knitters were having in handmade items carry. fashion model to a newborn baby.
getting their handiwork marketed. A The world of k nitting has changed The store has become a centre not only
group of women formed the association, dramatically since the association began. A for selling the finished products but also for
established standards and guidelines for few decades ago, the designs took on the supplying the wool and all the accessories
the production that was - and still is, an form of the lopapeysa or sweater, with required to make woollen items.
The association has established high
standards for the wool they supply the
knitting community so as to get an equally

Opening The Treasure Chest

high quality product back to sell. This is
all the best genuine Icelandic wool with its

Images by Gabriel Rosenberg

unique characteristics.
A Master Craftsman Creates Works of Art in Precious Metals Visitors can have their purchases shipped

D ra Gubjrt Jnsdttir is one of

Icelands fi nest and most productive
goldsmiths using, with great understanding,
in Reykjavk. Her expertise is national
costume jewellery, or filigree, a delicate kind
of jewellery metalwork, usually of gold and
artist, she has always striven to put national
crafts in a new context and associate her
designs with modern trends which combine
to them and they can also email orders
from the website in the comfort of their
own homes. That includes the patterns,
the ways of Icelandic masters before her time. silver. Outstanding skills can be seen in her the artists desire to experiment with a wool, needles and accessories, not just the
Between 1949-53, Dra started learning the superb work, honouring Icelandic tradition. thorough knowledge of templates and clothing. If knitting is your hobby, there is a
trade at her fathers workshop, gaining her Dra likes to work with very old jewellery patterns of the past. world of warm designs just waiting for you.
Masters degree in 1954. Additionally, she templates, often well over 100 years old. Gullkistan SP Handprjnasamband
ASF
studied at Trna folk high school in Sweden She has always actively participated
and Konstfackskolan in Stockholm around i n e x h ibit ion s, bot h nat iona l ly a nd Frakkastg 10 101 Reykjavk Sklavrustgur 19 101 Reykjavk
1950, graduating with honours. internationally, and served as a chairman +354 551 3160 +354 552 1890
Dra took over her fathers workshop in o f t h e F IG ( Ic e l a n d i c G o l d s m it h s gullkistan@vortex.is handknit@handknit.is

1970 and relocated it, opening her company Foundation) from 1974-75, being the fi rst www.thjodbuningasilfur.is www.handknit.is

called Gullkistan, on Frakkastgur street Nordic woman to take that position. A true

70 71
The Greater Reykjavik Area
and thousands of which
have already nested in these islands.
The Andrea is the biggest whale watching
ship in Iceland; thus it is very stable, comfortable
andmost importantlyhas excellent viewing
decks, providing you with a great sailing
experience. Guests can have a nice cup of coffee
or hot chocolate indoors or borrow a sweater to
wear outdoors on colder days.

See Iceland with Fresh Eyes

Unique visual experiences of Icelands geological history

M uch ha s been w rit ten about

Ic e l a nd s splend id l a nd s c ap e s
nature since 1970s a nd ha s a ma ssed
enormous amounts of extraordinary footage.
some people dont realise that Iceland is
positioned on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge,

Life of Whales Notes from a guides diary

in trying to capture the essence of the
country, but fewer have tried to actually
One of their most popular f ilms is
c a l le d E r upt ion. It fo c u s e s on t he
s p a n n i n g t he Nor t h- A me r ic a n a nd
European tectonic plates, as well as being
Watch whales, porpoises and dolphins from the Andrea According to the guides diary to be found on explain how Iceland came to be the way powerf ul Eyja f ja llajkull eruption in on top of a so-called hot spot, resulting

W hales and humans coexist harmoniously Life of Whales website, the beginning of June it is. Thus many visitors casually pass 2010. Brynds Kristjnsdttir, manager in the extremely variable volcanic activity
in Faxafli bay in these first sunny days was really exciting on the bay. One day, for by Icelands staple attractions without at Cinema No. 2, says their guests are found in Iceland. But the volcanoes are not
of summer. The whales have been playing and example, a minke whale stayed with the ship ever rea lising the complexit y of their continually amazed by the force of the the only things which shape our country.
enjoying riding along Life of Whales ship for awhile during a thick fog, a description origin and being. In the rustic loft of a eruption as seen in the f ilm and often The movie explores how climate changes,
Andrea, while the humans enjoy the view of one normally only encounters in mystic fairy f isherma ns hut down by Reykjavik s want to know more about the volcanic glaciers, rivers and the ocean slowly, slowly
these magnificent animals. tales! Another entry tells of some harbour old harbour, you can now glimpse into activity in Iceland. As a result, Cinema form the splendid landscapes we see here
The whales by the shores of Iceland, are purpoises competing with minke whales to the origin of Iceland at Cinema No. 2s No. 2 now presents their latest film, The today. As with our other fi lms, we wanted
without a doubt, some of the most spectacular show off only ten metres from the ship in
unique movie theatre. Birth of an Island, which shows you exactly to focus on giving a visual experience and
sights Iceland has to offer. Four types of whales front of the eager human audience.
The compa ny specia lises in nature that how Iceland came to be the way it is. limit the amount of explanation as much
live in Faxafli bay, which makes them quite Yet another entry tells of a playground
cinematography and offers a wide selection Br ynds says that visitors, and even as possible, focusing instead on atmosphere
accessible from Reykjavk. Those species are: of minkes, a group of five staying a secure
the Minke whales, White-Beaked Dolphins, 60 metres distance from the ship, while a of films which focus more on the experience Icelanders themselves, often dont get the and visual presentation, says Brynds.
Harbour Porpoises and Humpback Whales. group of three others dared to come much of the topic rather than simply showing it. full Iceland experience simply because Cinema No. 2 has a wide selection of
closer, surfacing at the same time in the same The fi lmmaker has been fi lming Icelandic they dont know its history. For example, fi lm screenings from noon to the evening,
Tour the bay on a stable ship direction. This same tour also witnessed some ranging from just over twenty minutes up
Life of Whales is a small family company, dolphins, mothers and calfs alike jumping out to two-hour showings. Brynds says the
which runs three tours a day from the old they visit the puffin islands in the bay, of the water and turning in the air. Whales are schedule is designed to suit everyone, from
harbour in Reykjavk, each one lasting three where one can easily see the peculiar just like us humans, some of them are more people who want to take a breather from
hours. In addition to the whalewatching, puffin among other seabirds, hundreds suspicious, keeping their distance from the ship a busy day of excursions, whale-watchers
while others are more daring, playing along and looking for things to do, those wanting
perhaps even communicating with us! a lunch break, pre-dinner entertainment
or a cosy way to spend the evening. In
Make your visit complete
fact, Cinema No.2 was recently selected
Staring at the unbelievable sight of a whale
as one of the top 10 places to go after
surfacing from the sea is something one
should not miss while staying in Iceland. hours in Reykjavik by popular tourist
On board the Andrea, you are provided website, www.TripAdvisor.com. German
with both the comfort and facilities to speakers are advised to check out the daily
enjoy that experience to the fullest. screenings at 18:30 in German.
Life of Whales NHH Cinema No. 2 VAG

gisgari 1 101 Reykjavk Geirsgata 7b - 101 Reykjavk

+354 562 2300 +354 898 6628

hvalalif@hvalalif.is Cinemano2@lifsmynd.is
www.hvalalif.is www.lifsmynd.is

72 73
The Greater Reykjavik Area

Best way to see the city

Reykjavik Bike Tours original way to see Reykjavik is also the best

I f youre in good health and know how to

balance a bicycle, youll enjoy riding with
one of Reykjavik Bike Tours entertaining
Classic Reykjavik Tour 2.5 hrs / 7 km
This tour is the perfect introduction to the
capital city of Iceland and is offered all year.
and professional guides. They offer bicycle You can expect to see some of the citys hidden
tours and rentals in Reykjavik all year. In secrets while learning about its history from require the assistance of a minibus and
summer, they also do day trips out of town a professional and enthusiastic local tourist trailer. Combine all five and youve got
in a minibus with a bicycle combination to guide. You get to know what the city is all about yourself a holiday bicycle tour.
places not to be missed. in terms of its history, best museums, best The t wo cit y tours a re the Cla ssic
restaurants, current special events and much, Reykjavik 2.5 hrs / 7 km, and the Coast
No. 1 on Trip Advisor much more. Perhaps the most important aspect of Reykjavik 2.5 hrs / 18 km. The Classic
Reykjavik Bike Tours has enjoyed top of this tour, apart from the exercise, of course, is tour has plenty of stops and is quite easy for
position on the Trip Advisor social traveller the direct access to the local guide giving the tour. anyone in good health. The Coast tour is
website for the past three years. It is Ursula also fairly easy but covers more than twice
and Stefans family business, founded in Holiday Bicycle Tour the distance of the Classic tour.
2009. Travellers appreciate the friendly Reykjavik Bike Tours offers one scheduled The three tours that involve the use of a
welcome, knowledgeable guides, the outdoor tour in winter, and five scheduled tours in minibus and trailer are: Golden Circle &
activity and excellent quality bicycles. summer; two in the city, and three which Bike 8 hrs / 25 km; Westman Isles & Bike
9 hrs / 11 km and Blue Lagoon & Bike 8
hrs / 18 km. For more information, please
visit Reykjavik Bike Tours website.

Ursula and Stefan love what they

do and receive every visitor with a
friendly smile.
Reykjavik Bike Tours SHV Opening hours 11:00-18:00
gisgarur 7 101 Reykjavk

+354 694 8956

Lkjargata 4 101 Reykjavk Tel. +354 55 10 100 jomfruin@jomfruin.is
bike@icelandbike.com
www.icelandbike.com www.jomfruin.is

74
The Greater Reykjavik Area

Self-Driving Made Easy

access to such diverse activities as whale
watching, the geological phenomena of

Fosshtel: Connecting the Ring around Iceland

sbyrgi and the magnificent Dettifoss
waterfall. Fosshtel, of course, provide

T he thought of booking accommodation

for an entire road trip can be a daunting
task, as the number of options and variables
way. Their hotels are each located by the
main road and close to many of Icelands
main attractions, eliminating long and
accommodation close to Vatnajkull in the
East of Iceland. Fosshtel Mosfell gives you
easy access to many of Southern Icelands
is sometimes seemingly endless. Fosshtel has tedious drives to your nights lodging. greatest attractions, including a hike to Mt.
come up with a convenient option for those Hekla and the secluded rsmrk area.
driving around Iceland: the On the Road Right Where the Sights Are Opening in 2013 is a new 3-star hotel in
package, which enables you to travel to all Fosshtel has two conveniently located Patreksfjrur in the West Fjords.
of Icelands greatest attractions while always hotels in Reykjavik to start your trip. In The hotels are not exclusive to those
having a comfortable place to stay nearby. Reykholt, in the west of Iceland, youll using the self-drive package and provide
fi nd a culturally-themed hotel connecting a cosy and friendly option for the weary
No Worry Accommodation you to the rich history of the area and the traveller. Fosshotels motto is Friendly

CELEBRATING
F o s s h t e l h a n d l e s a l l y o u r h o t e l wonders of the Snfellsnes peninsula. There all around Iceland, and their three main
accommodation and provides you with a are three hotels in the North of Iceland: goals are to provide a good nights sleep,
detailed travel itinerary to help you on your Dalvk, Hsavk and Laugar, giving you healthy breakfast and making their visitors
comfortable, so you can be sure of a warm
welcome. Most of their hotels have quality
restaurants which emphasise the local
35 YEARS
cuisine and many of the staff are, in fact,
locals who are more than happy to give you COACH HIRE
AND TRAVEL
advice and information for your travels.
Fosshtel VAG
Hesthls 10,
Sigtn 38 105 Reykjavk

+354 562 4000

sales@fosshotel.is
SERVICE 110 - Reykjavk Iceland
Tel: 00-354-587-6000
www.fosshotel.is

IN ICELAND! Email: info@trex.is

www.trex.is
76
The Greater Reykjavik Area

gifts from
T
the viking
he etymology of souvenir lies in
the similar French word meaning
Take home a part of Iceland with you for posterity
granddaughter and shop manager has helped and lava stone jewellery or a fine set of wine
in the store since she was 7 years old. glasses of Icelandic design. Children would
in Iceland they pointed at the farmers and
said, Paysan! and the Icelanders thought Forget about taxes
to remember, to recall. For almost sixty love to play with a puffin stuffed toy. All the they were referring to their wool sweaters. Dont forget to have your taxes refunded
years, travellers have been buying their gifts Symbols of Iceland products are provided by local producers. The Viking collaborates with local at the airport or in the last port where
and souvenirs from The Viking. Ice, Vikings and volcanoes. Big symbols producers and has a big collection of sweaters your ship stops in Iceland. Youll get 15%
of Iceland. We have one of the biggest Feel the warmth of Iceland in different sizes and colours along with the back. And heres another tip: you can get
The Tailor from the North collections of gifts and souvenirs in Iceland, The traditional knitted sweaters started to very popular hats and fluff y woollen mittens. can fi nd them again on Hafnarstrti and discounts with The Vik ing coupons
Sigurur Gumundsson opened the first store says Sigurur Gumundsson, the shop owner. become popular in the 1950s. The yarn down by the old harbour and in the West from the Visitors Guide handbook!
in the 50s in the northern town of Akureyri. The six stores around the country offer used, lopi, is made from 100% natural Six locations around the country Fjrds, in the town of safjrur. The Viking AB
In the beginning, the shop sold souvenirs in great gift options to fit everyones budget: Icela ndic sheep wool, which ha s t he Five years ago, the family decided to The family business is making a full circle
the summer and mainly wooden toys in the photo albums or books about Vikings and property of keeping you warm, letting expand their stores. Now, there are three in going back to Akureyri. In the beginning of Laugarvegur 1 101 Reykjavik
winter. Sigurur was a tailor and thats where their sagas; traditional and warm lopapeysa your skin breath and being waterproof at Reykjavk at Hafnarstti 3 and on the citys June 2012, Cafe Bjrk opened in the one of the +354 5511250
the tradition of selling local products began, (wool sweaters); Yule lads or troll statues; the same time. It is believed that the origin main shopping street, Laugavegur 1. A most beautiful locations in town, the Botanical info@theviking.com

a tradition continuing to the present day. cool T-shirt designs by The Viking. For of peysa comes from the French word new shop opened at Laugavegur 4 in June, Garden. With a terrace and surrounded by www.theviking.com

Tinna Berglind Gumundsdttir, Sigururs something more fancy, there is the silver paysan (peasant). As French sailors arrived 2012. In their home town, of Akureyri, you flowers, this is a must if you are in Akureyri.

78 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 79
 KPAVOGUR

GARABR

Come out to play

The Activity Parks in Gufunes and Smralind provide hours of fun

Kpavogur Garabr T h rou g h pl ay, c h i ld ren le a r n to

understand the world, relate to each
other and develop skills. Adults who keep in
touch with the child inside and play all their
Because the staff are experts in event
management, the park is ideal for orienteering.
They can create games that will promote team
building, sharpen your attention and help
lives will always be a step ahead of others. develop resourcefulness. The park also offers
The activity park in Gufunes and its mini golf, laser tag and paintball.
sister park in Smralind Mall provide an In Ketills hut, where the settler Ketill Gufa is
opportunity for fun and amusement. remembered, food and refreshments are offered.
Gufunes is a former settlement. In the
early days of Iceland there was a harbour Joy is the key to a long life
there where goods were traded. The pirate It is said that laughter strengthens the heart
ship watching over the park could just as and is the key to good health and there is
well have docked there centuries ago. plenty to go around in Smralind Park.
Th e park is a small world full of fun and
exciting challenges with over 100 games Food nurtures the soul
offered: bumper cars, a sledgehammer If you are hungry, the Forest Snack offers
that spins you 14 metres in the air, a drop treats such as candy floss, ice cream, popcorn
tower and arcade games which provide a and soda. For those who prefer something
challenge for people of all ages. The first 7D more substantial, try the Fun Caf on the
motion theatre on earth takes participants second floor. The best thing about amusement
into the world of animation during which parks is the atmosphere of excitement and
they can affect the fi lms outcome. romance that lets us nurture the child within.
Open from early afternoon till late Skemmtigarurinn ST.S
evening, you can spend time in the various
attractions, watch live sports, play pool or Hagasmra 1 201 Kpavogi
darts or try to set a new record in the games +354 534 1900
in the arcade hall. If its competition you info@skemmtigardur.is

want, grab a scorecard and create your own www.skemmtigardur.is

competition with your friends.

81
The Greater Reykjavik Area

Best selection of
Icelandic riding gear
Joyful tradition We strive to
offer the best
Minilik has been very well received by the
Icelanders and its no wonder. The food is
authentic and delicious, with herbs and
spices imported from Ethiopiaa joy for the
palette and fingers as guests use traditional
selection of
Ethiopian bread (similar to crepes) instead of
forks, to scoop up the food with their fingers. Icelandic
riding gear

Our stores

Food Fit for Kings Lnsbakki Akureyri

Ethiopian culture in the North Atlantic
M inilik is an Ethiopian restaurant
serving exquisite food. Located
near the Smralind Mall in Kpa vogur,
Ancient culture
Lemlem, a professional marathon runner and
Yirga, a former journalist, have been living in
at Hlarsmri 15, Minilik is owned and Iceland for a number of years, raising their four Lynghls 3 Reykjavk
operated by an Ethiopian couple, Lemlem children. Though they are both from Ethiopia,
Kahssay and Yirga Mekonnen. they met in Germany. I persuaded her to move
The restaurant derives its name from to Iceland, says Yirga and adds playfully, It is The jewel in the Minilik crown is the coffee
Prince Minilik, son of the Queen of Sheba. impossible to escape from Iceland! ceremony. Be sure not to miss it. Ethiopia is
According to the Bible, the Ethiopian queen When asked why they decided to open known as the Mother of Coffee and at Minilik,
visited King Solomon of Jerusalem to study a restaurant, the couple reply, Ethiopian guests can observe the process from start to
his wisdom and presented him with gold and culture is 3-4,000 years old and has a great finish; from the roasting of the washed coffee
other precious gifts. They became lovers and culinary tradition. We wanted to share our beans to the hostess pouring the aromatic and
upon her return to Ethiopia she gave birth tradition which is little known today as most delicious brew into cupsas traditionally, only
to a child who she named Minilik, which of the news the world gets from Ethiopia women can perform this ceremony.
means the son of a wise man. is of hunger and famine. But Ethiopia has The service at Minilik is warm and lovely. One
another huge side to it. We have 85 tribes, cannot help feeling welcome and at home in this
thus 85 dialects, 85 cultures with their own part of Africa moved to the northern Atlantic.
traditional songs and dances and culinary Minilik Restaurant SS
traditions. So, it is a rich and diverse culture
and we are offering dishes which were Hliarsmri 15 201 Kopavogur
Please visit our
served in Ethiopian palaces 3,000 years
ago. Ethiopian restaurants are very popular
+354 554 0908
azeb-kassay@hotmail.com online store
www.liand.is
all over Europe and the US and we were www.minilik.is

convinced the same would apply to Iceland.

82 tel: +354 540 1100

 Hotel Viking is modern in West-Nordic
design on the first floor and a Viking theme
on the ground floor. All the rooms have a
bathroom, shower, coffee-maker, hairdryer,
television and free internet access. In the
garden youl find a sauna and a hot tuba
great favourite of the Vikings centuries ago
where youl be able to relax, surrounded by

Travel Back to the Viking Era

the Viking atmosphere and architecure.
The fourteen cottages have a ll the

The Vikings Never Had It So Good as at Fjrukrin

modern comforts. They are a lovely place
to stay with your family and friends as each

F jrukrin is a Viking village in the centre and waitresses are clad in Viking garb, while cottage houses five guests.
of Hafnarfjrur. It consists of two musicians sing Icelandic songs.
restaurants, a hotel and a cave in which to Fjrukrin has developed the Viking
Fjrukrin SS

enjoy your Viking drinks. In the restaurants, theme for 22 years and enjoys great popularity Strandgata 55 220 Hafnarfjrdur
you can either tread the safe route and choose amongst Icelanders. The oldest house was +354 565 1213
from the extensive Icelandic menuor you can built in 1841 and renovated as a restaurant. vikings@vikingvillage.is

brave the Viking Feast, which includes shark Since then, the Hotel Viking and, recently, www.fjorukrain.is

and brennivn or Black Death. The waiters Viking cottages have been added.

Hafnarfjrur

Image Gabriel Rutenberg

Celebrate Horse Riding Safety is paramount

You watch an instructional video before
shestars 30 years of exciting riding tours and satisfied riders. your tour (Find shestar on youtube.com)

I ts an anniversary worth celebrating.

Many riders return annually to ride
with the family-owned company whose
A Tour for Every Rider
If youre on a weekend trip or a longer
stay, theres a tour designed for you.
Training and help is given at every stage
to make your ride fun. Hungry? Why not
book a delicious lunch to eat on your return
philosophy is we care and share. They Schoolchildren and families take the Family to the Riding Centre after your morning
care for their riders, for their enjoyment Adventure Tour and then visit the rabbits tour, or before going out in the afternoon.
and safety. They care for their horses and other animals. Guests can take a ride shestar ASF
and training and share them with people combined with whale-watching, a trip to
who like to ride, adult or child, novice or Gulfoss and Geysir or the Blue Lagoon. Srlaskei 26 220 Hafnarfjrur
experienced. They share the beauty of the The Viking Tour is a 5-6 hour tour for more +354 555 7000
Icelandic countryside, both the local nature experienced riders and seasoned riders can info@ishestar.is

and, for those taking the longer tours, the take the multi-day upcountry tours. Details www.ishestar.is

spectacular upcountry experience. are on their website.

85
The Greater Reykjavik Area

Hafnarfjrur
the Town in the Lava Vikings, Elves and Merchants
about machines breaking down or their
operators getting hurt while attempting to
clear the way for a new road. Join a fun and
T he Fol k Mu seu m i nc lude s va r iou s
buildings in town, such as the Pakkhsi
(Storage house), Merchant Svertsens House

Images by Gabriel Rutenberg

H afnarfjrur harbour town has 26,000
official inhabitants and countless
hidden people who have made their home
Harbour Town
Directly translated, the name Hafnarfjrur
means Harbour Fjord, so named because
informative guide on a walk to learn about
their ways and habits.
and Siggubr (Siggas Cottage). The main
exhibition is in Pakkhsi. Siggubr is an
old, small but quaint farmhouse built in
on a lava field 7,300 years old. Hafnarfjrur of its natural harbour, surrounded by lava Town Festivals the lava field. It is a fine example of a house
has much to offer local and foreign visitors all fields. The natural harbour conditions Hafnarfjrurs three best known festivals belonging to common people. Entrance to
year. Krsuvk geothermal area draws 100,000 attracted foreign merchants from England include Bjartir dagar (Bright Days) at the both museums is free.
visitors annually; shestar offer fun horse riding in the 15th century; later German traders
Hafnarfjrur is only 15 minute drive from
tours through the lava field. For those interested who drove out the English, and fi nally the end of May, Annual Seamens Day on the
Reykjavik. A frequent, convenient, reliable
in culture, history, food and shopping theres Danes, who imposed a trade monopoly in fi rst weekend in June, The Viking Festival and inexpensive bus service is available.
an arts museum and folk museum, the Viking Iceland in 1602. in mid-June, and Jlaorpi (The Christmas Look for bus route number S-1.
Village, and Fjrurinn Shopping Centre. Market), open from the beginning of
Capital of Elves December until Christmas. Please visit Hafnarfjararbr SV
Hafnarborg Culture and Fine Arts Museum Hafnarfjrur is famous for having one of Hafnarfjrurs website for details.
Open every day except Tuesdays. Icelands largest settlements of Hulduflk Strandgtu 6 220 Hafnarri
The Folk Museum (Hidden People). Hu ldu fl k is t he Free Admission to Museums +354 585 5500
Open on week-ends in winter, and daily from collective word for elves, dwarfs and other There are two museums in Hafnarfjrur, info@hanfarfjordur.is
June to August. Groups are welcome outside
published opening times. mystical beings. Much evidence supports the namely Hafnarborg Culture and Fine Arts www.visithafnarfjordur.is

belief in the hidden people, such as stories Museum, and Hafnarfjrur Folk Museum.

86 87
The Greater Reykjavik Area

At the Lavas Edge and also caters for groups, big and small,

Hotel Hafnarfjrur is at Reykjaviks Doorstep

offering set three course menus or a buffet.
It has a 24-hour front desk, multi-lingual

H otel Hafnarfjrur is a great choice

when staying in Iceland. Located in the
beautiful town of Hafnarfjrur, with its nice
The hotel itself has altogether 83 rooms
(from single and deluxe rooms to family
rooms) and can accommodate 180 guests.
sta f f and laundr y-ser vice, wheelchair
access and free parking for all its guests.
A ll sightseeing a nd bus tours ca n be
harbour, good shopping area, lovely museums All the rooms are beautifully furnished, booked from the hotel desk.
and restaurants, it is only a 10 minute drive from spacious and bright. The deluxe rooms are Htel Hafnafjrur SS
Reykjavik city centre. Further, it takes only 20 located in a tower with a wonderful view.
minutes to drive to the Blue Lagoon and 30 Most of them have a kitchenette. Included in Reykjavkurvegur 72 220 Hafnarfjrur

Gourmet dishes at fair prices

minutes to Keflavik International Airport. all the room prices is a continental breakfast +354 540 9700 The owners of Gamla Vnhsi pride
Hafnarfjrur is surrounded by lava, and free wireless internet access. info@hhotel.is themselves on excellent ingredients, excellent

Gamla Vnhsi prides itself in Good Wines and Services

making the town quite picturesque. It has Hotel Hafnarf jrur of fers a lunch www.hotelhafnarfjordur.is
steaks, fair prices and a friendly atmosphere.
access to easy hiking trails of unspoilt nature. buffet ever y day in its new restaurant The steaks are their speciality and their aim

G amla Vnhsi, or the Old Winehouse

Restaurant, is to be found both in
Reykjavik and Hafnarfjrurthe original one
dissappoint them. The most popular dishes
at Gamla Vnhsi is beef, the second is
horse fillet and the third is minke whale.
is to offer lower prices than their competitors
with similiar service standards. All the
ingredients come straight from either an
being in Hafnarfjrur. Both restaurants are Yes, you might be taken aback, but its a Icelandic farmer or Icelandic fishermen and
right in the town centres and their popularity
fact that the islanders have had to survive thus are always at their freshest.
is due to both good services and excellent food.
harsh weather, eruptions, earthquakes and
The menus differ slightly, with the other natural disasters during the centuries Thriving in Economic Hard Times
traditional Icelandic kjtspa (lamb meat and have had to adapt to available food. The Hafnarfjrur restaurant opened in 2007,
soup) and fish balls being available at the With their wild herbs and spices they have a year before the notorious financial collapse.
Reykjavik restaurant. Both courses are developed lovely dishes from the animals at The Reykjavik restaurant opened in 2010,
a great favourite amongst the Icelandic hand and still like them very much. when a quite number of restaurants in Iceland

Rent a Second Home in Iceland people and the lamb meat soup is loved by
all children. It is simply delicious.
One more favourite dish at Ga mla
Vnhsi is, of course, the lobster. Differing
went bust. So, the hosts at Gamla Vnhsi
most certainly are doing something right.
Bustadur.is connects travellers and second home owners from the lobsters of other seas, the Icelandic As to be expected, Gamla Vnhsi has an

E ver thought of renting someones private

second home during your holiday?
Bustadur rental agency connects holidaymakers
Second homes offer more convenience,
more f lexibility and more independence
to holidaymakers than any other kind of
coastal scenery, farm meadows to volcanic
landscapeeven volcanoes.
Meats from Hardship lobster is small, fi rm and extremely tasty.
Icelanders love their fish but they also The Icelandic lobster is possibly the most
love their meat. The islanders are quite the loved seafood in Iceland, especially with just
excellent wine list and the hosts do their best
to cater for everyones taste and wishes. Their
house wine is invariably very good and at the
in Iceland and owners of private second homes accommodationespecially for small groups Bstaur lists 40 quality second homes on gourmets and Gamla Vnhsi does not butter and fresh garlic. Reykjavik restaurant, they additionally offer
in all parts of the country all year. and families with children. its website. The second homes are available for a special winelist with more expensive wines.
Staying in a second home is quite rent all year to locals and visitors from abroad
economical, especially for small groups and alike. Most of the 14,000 second homes in Both restaurants are large and can
familiesbut perhaps even more importantly Iceland are privately owned and come in seat big groups (120 in Reykjavik
theyre often most conveniently located. different sizes and level of luxury. and 150 in Hafnarfjrur).
Sometimes theyre even closer to main scenic Bstaur SHV Gamla vnhsi SS
attractions than hotels and guesthouses.
Northern lights are best viewed away from Suurgata 68 220 Hafnarri Vesturgtu 4 220 Hafnarfjrur
city lights from mid-September to mid-April. +354 615 4550 +354 565 1130
This is why second homes are the perfect place bustadur@bustadur.is gamlavinhusid@gamlavinhusid.is
www.bustadur.is
to be to view this beautiful but elusive natural www.gamlavinhusid.is

phenomenon. The surroundings range from

88 89
The Greater Reykjavik Area

Radiant
Jewellery and reflectors Stay beautiful and Safe in the Dark with Tras Radiant Jewellery
T he Canadian born mosaic-artist,
A lice Olivia Clarke, has found a
way to make Icelanders visible during the
arm, leg, scarf, bag or rucksackand they
became instantly popular. There are short
bands and long bands and even Icelandic
birds. All Tras accessories are available at
the National Museum, National Gallery,
Epal (also at the Kef lavik International
one making their own leaf. Alice created
the centrepiece a 3 metre high mosaic Celtic
cross, in the form of a tree and each of the
long, dark winterdays. With the traditional men are happy to wear them. Airport), and in the Icelandic design store, leaves have been added to its crown. This
reflective adhesives insulting the least bit of But Alice creativity was not finished. Not Kraum, in the centre of Reykjavk. community project can be found in the
vanity, men and women have refrained from by a long shot. The next item was a beautiful community hall of Hafnarfjararkirkju

Images by Gabriel Rutenberg

sticking them on their overcoats. Which, by necklace, long enough to wear over any jacket, From the Family to the World Hafnarfjrur church.
the way, is quite unfortunate as black is a coat or parka, with reflective buttons on each The aim of Tra is to combine the traditional Her installations can be found in several
favourite colour in Iceland. end hanging down front and back and thus with the contemporary, focusing on Icelandic pl a c e s i n Ic e l a nd . I n he r s t ud io i n
On a dark winters day four years ago, Alice making the one wearing it quite visible. All material where possible. Only the reflective Ha fna rf jrur, she gives courses a nd
wondered at all the black-clad people and the accessories can also be worn as beautiful thread and the buttons are imported. seminars to teach her craft to Icelanders
decided there must be a way to make beautiful jewellery. Everything is made from Lopi and Actually, the whole concept is quite the who are always ready to learn a new do-it-
reflective accessories men and women would be reflective thread, not just on the surface, but family affair, as Alice husband, architect yourself craft. From Alice, they learn to
happy to wear. And she found a solution. throughout. All the flowers are crocheted, all Kri Eirksson, co-designs and their daughter make their own mosaic creations: mirrors,
handmade and the knitted bands are machine makes the box illustrations. tables, candleholders and hotpads.
A Flower Blooms into a Whole Range knitted by the Icelandic knitting company, Tra is already exporting the radiant When in Iceland be sure to look for Tra
It started with a f lower, a completely Glofi. The bands inside the knitted cover accessories to the Netherlands and Alice has Radiant Accessories when buying gifts for family
handmade flower, made from the Icelandic are reflective, so is the leather on the end. Alla long list of countries wanting to buy her and friends back home. The beautiful pieces will
wool, Lopi. To begin with Alice and her the buttons on Tras radiant accessories are extraordinary products. This little idea I had make your loved ones visible in the dark.
mother-in-law made them, but due to is certainly blossoming, says this married
recycled and it takes several metres of reflective Tra SS
demand they had to add two more knitters thread to fasten them onto the flowers. mother of two, who is presently working
to the group, all working in Alice studio. on another of her mosaic installations in Gunnarssund 5 220 Hafnarfjrur
Women were happy to add the radiant Where to Find Them Hafnarfjrur. She has worked on this +354 697 6111
flowers to their overcoats, but the men were The result is beautiful quality accessories. The newest piece, aptly named The Tree of Life alice@aok.is

still very much in the dark. So, the next latest product is multi-coloured necklaces, for over three years along with nearly three www.tira.is

product was a band one can circle around an based on the colour of indigenous Icelandic hundred, thirteen year-old children, each

90 91
 Can we invite you over? Th e no. 15 bus stops literally at Hotel
Laxnes doorstep and it only takes about
Mosfellsbr opens a new tourist information office at the lovely Hotel Laxnes fi fteen minutes to get to Reykjavk and less

A s the hometown of Nobel Prize winner

Halldr Laxness, Mosfellsbr has long
been a popular stop for travellers. Every year,
Shaun Roberts, says most people come to
Mosfellsbr to visit lafoss woollen factory
or hike up nearby Mount Esja but are
to Esja. You can easily stroll from the hotel
to the most interesting sites in Mosfellsbr,
such as lafoss, where youll f ind, in
thousands of tourists visit his former home, pleasantly surprised by the range of other addition to the famous woollen outlet, a
now a museum. The area has a lot more to offer, activities and services at hand. caf and restaurant with a veranda and an
however. Consequently the town, in collabo- The mounta inous a rea a round t he excellent menu and Palli the Knifemaker.
ration with the local Hotel Laxnes, has set up town is ideal for walks and hikes and Across the street from the hotel, you have
an excellent information office for visitors. opportunities for outdoor activities, such the popular local bakery and caf, a nice
as horseback riding, fishing and swimming, pub and restaurant serving, among other

Mosfellsbr MAP LAFUR VALSSON

Perfect location, plenty to do
Located at Hotel Laxnes, in the heart of
town, the Information Office helps both
hotel guests and people passing through
are numerous. Shaun adds that much of the
growing popularity of Mosfellsbr is due to
its brilliant location. Right on Route One,
its a natural stop when heading both west
meals, fresh fi sh and great salads as well as
a lovely giftstore where local craftspeople
sell their creations. In summer, you can
buy home-grown vegetables and other
to organise their stay and get the most and north but its also the perfect place goods at the farmers markets at nearby
from their visit. This makes a world of a for those who want to stay in a relaxed Reykir and Mosfellsdalur.
difference for visitors and can save both environment surrounded by untouched
time and money, of course. Hotel manager, nature, just minutes away from the city. Hotel Laxnes
The hotel, open since 2008, has played
a significant role in making Mosfellsbr
attractive for tourists. The house is a country
lodge with spacious and tastefully decorated
rooms. The upper floor has a beautiful view
of Mount Esja. The hotel has bicycles for

Image by Gabriel Rutenberg

rent and an outdoor hot tub. Customers
agree that the hotels cheerful, personal
atmosphere and the staff s eagerness to
please, really make it stand out.
By increasing its service to tourists,
Mosfellsbr is making the towns attractions
as accessible to visitors as possible. Whether
youre looking for a beautiful place to spend.
Hotel Laxnes H

Hholt 7 - 270 Mosfellbr

+354 566 8822

info@hotellaxnes.is
www.hotellaxnes.is

93
The Greater Reykjavik Area

Wonders at
My doorstep
L ook at all these people with backpacks
and maps and picnic bags, I said to
my sister in genuine surprise last summer
surroundings, even though theyre right there
in front of us, staring us invitingly in the eye.
An old Icelandic saying states that A guest
in winter, indigo blue from the spreads of
lupine in summer. There is certainly no
shortage of beauty in this placebut thats
tubs, sauna baths and top notch facilities. It
also prides itself on a gorgeous golf course
stretching along the shore with a breath-
when the stream of travellers to my lovely sees with a clear eye, so I decided to look at by no means all there is to it. taking view of the ocean.
little hometown reached a whole new level. my hometown with the eyes of a guest and T he possibilities to enjoy outdoor For families, the outdoor recreational
Seriously, why do they come here? My sister, discover it anew. What I found is that I live in activities are endless and the numerous areas that form what locals call The
(being the sharper knife in the drawer) looked the most wonderful little goody bag, a real walking and hiking paths, with information Adventure Park, should be a real hit. old woollen factory where nature and culture So after giving it a second thought, its
at me with a raised eyebrow. She answered: treat for your spirit and senses. signs offering further insight into the areas With their unusual equipment and natural come together. This little village is the home really not at all surprising that travellers seem
Dont they have every reason to want to come With its humble population and beautiful nature and wildlife, make this place perfect surroundings, theyre a great excuse to and workplace of artists and craftsmen who to have such great interest in my backyard.
here? I mean, just look around you. scenery, Mosfellsbr offers its residents for those who like to get around on foot kick of your shoes and fi nd the kid in you. seek inspiration in its serenity. The river I feel extremely proud to welcome those who
In the routine of daily life I guess we all have and visitors a little bit of everything you or by bike. The town has two swimming Those who dare can walk up to Kaldakvsl Varm runs through it and all around it are visit it and theres no doubt in my mind that
a tendency to become a little dispassionate can ask for; a relaxed, safe and especially pools, one brand new, with great waterslides waterfall, somewhat of a hidden gem, and spots perfect for a picnic and lazy walks. it offers each and every sone something
about the obvious wonders in our everyday family-friendly community in the midst of a for the kids to play in as well as several hot jump in like the towns teenagers do in the In the summertime, when the town really that will absolutely make their day and live
gorgeous landscape, with proximity to both spring- and summertime. comes to life, local markets, both in lafoss in their memory long after they leave and
sea and mountains, plenty of green areas, Mosfellsbr really has the feel of country and Mosfellsdalur, are a regular event, selling return to their own backyards. I, on the
playgrounds and interesting local attractions. living and the numerous horses and stables in homemade goods, flowers and arts and crafts. other hand, am so grateful for never having
Plus youre just minutes away from both the the area bear strong witness to that. The Ice- And last but not least, the towns bakery is to leave and will gladly remain a permanent
capital as well as the more rural places of note landic horse is a big part of the countrys history an entire world of its own! Its reputation has traveller in Mosfellsbr!
such as ingvellir and the Golden Circle. and some say that the best way to experience travelled far out of Mosfellsbr and attracts Mosfellsbr H
A mere f if teen minute d rive f rom Iceland is from a horses back. A horse ride customers from all over. Run by Haf lii
Reykjavik, the town rests in a cosy embrace through the beautiful scenery is nothing less Ragnarsson, a master baker and chocolatier, verholt 2 270 Mosfellsb
of seven hills and stretches down to the than invograting and in summertime, theres its a state of the art gourmet shop and +354 525 6700
shore of Kollafjrur fjord. Across the fjord, even a riding school for kids. caf, selling not just bread and pastries but moso@moso.is

Mount Esja rises in all its splendour and bids Through the years, one of the towns main all sorts of delicatessen waresas well as www.mosfellsbaer.is

you welcome; white in its snowy bridesveil attractions has been the lafoss area and its Hafliis handmade chocolates.

94 95
The Greater Reykjavik Area
piec e one of a k i nd, a
unique blend of art and nature.
Karen, having a keen artistic eye, also
ma kes jeweller y and ornaments from
seashells and decorative pearls, which make

Immages Gabriel Rutenberg

great presents. Also, their little heart-shaped
stones, small enough to fit into a childs
hand, and their funny little houses are
wonderful souvenirs. After all, what could
be more perfect to bring home with you
than a small piece of Iceland in your pocket?

Your own piece of Iceland

Art and nature collide at Gallery Front

I n soothing closeness to the sea and nature,

artists Valds and her daughter, Karen,
have made their long term dream come true.
they constantly look for stones shaped in
a way that allows them to transform them
simply by painting them.

The Mansion of the Icelandic Soul

At their gorgeous home, by the shores of T he stone s, elaborately pa inted in Gallery Front H
Kjalanes, they have opened a gallery, selling beautiful colours, take on a whole new

Gljfrasteinn Museum is the Former Home of Icelandic Writer Halldr Laxness

their distinctive craftwork made mostly from life, and become their own element. The Bagrund 13 116 Reykjavk
stones found on the slopes of the nearby brilliant thing is that they dont change +354 695 9652

G ljfrasteinn-La xness museum, in tiny steps as well as the big jumps, often knee, that he learned to appreciate the mountain and on the beach by their doorstep. the shape of the stones in any way, their frontlist@front.is

the Mosfellsdalur valley, is only 20 foreseeing their consequences, creating his dif ferent destinies of the human race Valds, who has been fascinated by stones natural form drives the creative process www.front.is

minutes away from Reykjavik on the way to much-loved literature from the fast-paced and develop a kindness towards those since childhood and an avid collector, says a nd t he f ina l outcome, ma k ing each
Th ingvellir National Park. It was the home journey and characters the Icelanders dicuss less fortunatewhich is quite apparent
and workplace of Halldr Laxness (winner of and refer to as if they had actually existed. in his novels. The area where La xness receive GPS-based guidance, information and/
the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1955) and He totally captured the Icelandic soul. spent his childhood became his source or articles with built-in Apps.
his family for more than half a century. It is In the reception building at Gljfrasteinn, of inspiration throughout his life. Trawire offers several add-on features,
now open to the public as a museum. Hardly you can watch a multimedia presentation Th e garden at Gljfrasteinn is open to such as a childrens package with videos
anything has been changed in or around the dedicated to Laxnesss life and work. Indeed, the public and a number of pleasant walks a nd ga mes to help time pa ss quick ly
museum since Laxness lived there and thus, it is worth your while as the writer was both can be taken throughout the area. Halldr while travelling. The iPad can also be
it is a perfect example of how the cultural interesting and fun, with a tremendous sense Laxness spent long hours roaming the attached to the back of the seat in front.
families of Iceland lived during a century of humour. There is also a souvenir shop on beautiful countryside around Gljfrasteinn The business pack is ideal for conference
of stunning changes, an era when Iceland the premises where Laxnesss books can be and visitors are encouraged to walk both attendees and business travellers who
took a leap from being a remote and tad obtained in various languages. along the river Kaldakvsl and around want to travel light. Trawire provides
primitive fi shing and farming community the valley, which were both his childhood all needed applications to keep updated
to becoming a player on the world stage. The Source of Inspiration haunts and his inspiration in later life. on bu siness de velopments, ne ws a nd
T he re a s on L a x ne s s bu i lt h i s home If you already know Laxnesss work, you contacts at home and help organise events
Capturing the Soul here was his love for the Mosfellsdalur will love this museum. And if you dont, and schedules while visiting Iceland.
Laxness, who was born in 1902 and died va lley. He was born and raised there. the museum is your first step towards an
Order a Trawire iPad online and it
in 1998, absorbed the players and all the It w a s t h e r e , a t h i s g r a n d m o t h e r s unimaginably versatile and rich world.
can be waiting for you upon arrival
If you are planning to visit during the
or collected at chosen locations.
summer check the museums schedule
first. During June, July and August there Trawire was inspired by gifted, autistic
are schamber concerts in the living room, children who function better in the modern

Travel in Touch
which sports a grand piano, as Laxness world using iPads. Trawires policy is to give
was an excellent pianist himself. back by sponsoring autistic children.
ASF
Rent an iPad from Trawire to guide your Icelandic travel and business
Gljfrasteinn SS Trawire

Gljfrasteinn 270 Mosfellsbr

+354 586 8066

gljufrasteinn@gljufrasteinn.is
I celand is very well connected. 2G mobile
coverage covers the whole country and 3G
reaches towns, villages, most coastal areas
Now you can stay in touch with friends
and family and up-to-date with news or
business. Trawire has launched an innovative
Grundartanga 28 270 Mosfellsb

+354 651 7368

trawire@trawire.com
www.gljufrasteinn.is and some of the interior. There are Wi-Fi iPad rental plan to help you get the most from www.trawire.com

hotspots in practically every inhabited spot. your visit. As you travel within Iceland, you

96 97
The Greater Reykjavik Area

Connoisseurs Delight
Hand-made knives by Palli are treasured across the world patient treatment. In this case, he wrapped

C arefully car ved out of diligently it in plastic and for the next 6 years, he daily

Stay Warm this Winter

A Living History researched and prepared materials, pricked a tiny hole in the covering to let just
lafoss is also a virtual museum. Built in 1896, often rare and always unusual, Pallis knives a bit more air in to dry it. Had he done it

lafoss wool keeps you warm and dryjust like the Icelandic sheep began and flourished. The mill itself has closed
it was here that the Icelandic woollen industry are now found in at least 85 countries of faster, it would have splintered and crumbled
the world. When he makes a special knife, to dust. Such is the thought and care applied

I celand is known for its ferocious winter who enjoy knitting themselves, balls of but the building now houses the lafoss store.
storms. Generations of Icelanders have yarn, knitting accessories, patterns and There are looms, pieces of machinery, vintage-
stayed warm, dry and comfortable wearing everything associated with making the style cash registers, original early phones and
there can be quite a competition to own it.

Born from enthusiasm

to each individual material that each handle
stands out as carrying the touch of a master
craftsman, a quality much soughtafter.
woollen clothing from the sheep that roam clothing, are available in the shop. examples of equipment used to make the Palli started carving knife handles over 25
the mountains in this wild country. Icelandic original company the powerhouse that drove years ago as a personal hobby. He enjoyed Custom or catalogueall are unique
wool is noted for its special qualities. It has Icelandic society for so many years in the 20th finding unusual materials to create the Because each knife is hand made, it is a
a virtually waterproof outer layer and a soft, century. There is a small caf which overlooks handles and took delight in carving each unique creation. He does have a catalogue
warm inner layer. The clothes are warm and the waterfall that started it all. one carefully to match the individual blades. but the images are just samples, as no
shower-proof. Th is makes them especially It is the kind of store where you can relax knives are completely identical. He loves
comfortable and suitable for all weathers and browse, enjoy the ambience and find those Under the blade he will blend diff erent materials together the challenge of experimenting with new
unlike many wool clothes that end up a special gifts and personal items that are so rarely Visit his workshop and you will most likely to form a composite handle that, when materials. A 65 year-old dentist drill is
heavy, sodden mess when it rains. found in Europe or the rest of the world. fi nd yourself seated right under a collection carved, will be unique. A horses hoof, a pressed into use for intricate carvings. They
Just 20 minutes from Reykjavik lies the of blades magnetically held to a bar on the reindeers antler, a goats horn, a hippos can be ordered online or, in Iceland, can
Made in Iceland, Found in lafoss town of Mosfellsbr on the road to the north. ceiling above you. None has fallen yet! A tooth, elm, fossilized wood, ebony or even be found at Brynja, the handyman shop on
All the woollen clothing to be found in There, after passing under the two bridges true craftsman, he always chooses the best diff erent Icelandic stonesthese are but Laugarvegur 29, Reykjaviks main shopping
lafoss is made in Iceland from Icelandic you will find a roundabout. Most traffic blades, sourcing them from as far away as a few of the materials he uses to create street and at his workshop in Mosfellsbr. Its
wool, ensuring that you can find these continues straight but if you turn right, youll Pakistan. Others come from a blacksmith a handle. Whilst most are found within worth the 15 minute trip there (from down
authentic qualities you are looking for. immediately see the red-roofed building of in Denmark. Factory made blades come Icelands shores, his search also takes him town Reykjavik) to see the environment
Today, the clothing ranges from traditional the old mill, built next to the lafoss or la from Norway, Sweden and Germany. They to many diff erent parts of the world. from which he draws his inspiration in his
to high fashion. Many young designers have waterfall, from which the mill took its name. are either made from fi ne Damascus steel, workshop next to the lafoss waterfall.
taken the Icelandic wool to create a whole lafoss Wool Store ASF stainless steel or single high carbon steel: The Patience of a Master Palli the Knife Maker
ASF
new range of designs and colours, which which keeps its sharp edge the best. Sometimes, materials will require special
gives plenty of choice for men, women and lafossvegur 23 270 Mosfellsbr treatment if they are to last and that can lafossvegur 29 270 Mosfellsb
children alike. Youll fi nd them at lafoss +354 566 6303 Natures provision take time. Some woods need to dry slowly +354 899 6903
alongside a stock of the traditional designs addi@alafoss.is What is special about these handles? Palli or they will split. Others, such as the palli@knifemaker.is

that have become a fashion statement www.alafoss.is loves to wander the countryside, looking fossilized tree he pulled from the water that www.knifemaker.is

in themselves the world over. For those for new materials for his handles. Often, was turning into brown coal, need more

98 99
The Greater Reykjavik Area

Images by Gabriel Rutenberg

The Crafty Side of Mosfellsbr
Local craftwork at Handverkshsi
I n the very centre of Mosfellsbr, just
across the street from Hotel Laxnes,
youll find an art and craft giftstore packed
quite a lot to choose from and whether youre
looking for a special souvenir or a present,
youre bound to find something that suits.
there are various beautiful glass objects
and delicate jewellery.
Handverkshsi is open all weekdays
with beautiful handmade objects. The In its range of products youll f ind from 14-18 and on Saturdays from 13-17 but
store, which also serves as a workshop for itsbeautiful crochet and woollen knitwork, arrangements can be made for other opening
owners, offers a broad selection of craftwork,like mittens and sweaters, but wool is hours, especially for groups. Simply call one
Images Gabriel Rutenberg

utility design and decorative ornaments also used in a more unusual manner, for of the numbers on the front door.
which clearly ref lect the diversity of the example in colourful guestbooks and the Handverkshsi H
seven craftswomen who have been running prettiest lamps and candleholders that
it for the past eleven years. give the most wonderfully soft light. Handverkshsi Mos
Hholt 14 270 Mosfellsb
Theres also an assortment of ceramics +354 847 7405
Hholt 14 270 Mosfellsb

A wide collection of all things pretty +354 847 7405

Baked to Perfection
in all shapes and sizes, everything from katagretars@hotmail.com
katagretars@hotmail.cowww.
Not only does their work vary in method and l a rge bowl s a nd c enter pie c e s to t he www.handmoso.com
handmoso.com

30 Years supplying delicious handmade baked goods at Mosfellsbakar

material of use but also in style, so theres world s cutest t himbles! In addition,

J
Mosskgar
ust over 30 years ago, a young couple The best of baking
worked together at a summer job in the Icelanders relish real, freshly-baked bread Mosfellsbr. Their range of handmade breads,
Westmann Islands. Later, they met again, and pasties. Family events and parties cakes, pastries, cookies, sandwiches and buns
working with the herring in the very east, always have a range of delicious cakes. are so wholesome and delicious. In the latter
in Seyisf jrur. Love blossomed and Mosfellsbakar has just celebrated its own two bakeries, there is also a delicatessen, Camp Site and Organic Vegetable Market
Ragnar and slaug married. 30th anniversary in each of its 3 shops: showing their continued commitment to An ecological vegetable farm in Mosfellsdalur is also a
They decided to start a bakery in Mosfellsbr. downtown in Reykjavik s oldest house service and innovation. The original bakery beautiful and calm camp site, sheltered from wind. Fully
They wanted it to provide a real service to the on Aalstrti, in Haleitisbraut and in in Mosfellsbr has moved to larger premises equipped service centre with cooking facilities, electricity.
then tiny community, so they added some at the shopping centre but it still retains its Market is open Saturdays from noon to 4pm. Easily found
tables and chairs in the cosy atmosphere of comfortable caf, with more seating. 4 km. from Mosfellsbr on the way to ingvellir. Not far
the warm bakery, so people could sit and chat from the capital. Bus service available.
over a coffee and cookies. That thoughtfulness, Start the day deliciously
along with their growing range of delicious Whether you are on a day trip or travelling Dalsgari 1 270 Mosfellsb +354 566 8121
breads, cakes and pastries made them very around the country, stopping of at one of
popular. Travellers from Reykjavik would stop the bakeries will certainly give you a good
off on their way to the north. startand a good opportunity to stock
up on delicious lunches, snacks and coffee
Chocolate Lovers to fortify you. The glittering silver Italian
An opportunity presented itself to open a machines offer a good reminder of just how
branch in the capital and this, too, was soon good coffee can taste when made right. And
thriving. Its reputation was enhanced when those chocolates? Dont tell your friends or
Haflii, Ragnar and slaugs son, started relatives. They are just too good!
making his chocolate creations. These are Mosfellsbakar ASF
real chocolates in contrast to the mass- home accommodation offers two well equipped,
private apartments with private entrance in a calm
produced bars in supermarkets and you Hholti 13-15 270 Mosfellsb neighbourhood in the beautiful town of Mosfellbr.
can just taste the quality! Is it any wonder, +354 566 6145 Regular bus to city centre.
therefore, that a branch has recently opened
in Reykjaviks oldest house on Aalstrti,
specialising in these delicious delicacies?
mosbak@mosbak.is
www.mosfellsbakari.is
2cosyapartments Bjars 5 270 Mosfellsb
gudrun.elsa.g@gmail.com
+354 611 8699
www.2cosyapartments.com

100 101
 The Reykjanes
The Blue Lagoon
Peninsula Iceland in a Nutshell - Step off the plane and step into history

Y
ou could spend your whole holiday on the
Reykjanes peninsula. Stand on the bridge
spanning the continents. Take a thrilling ATV ride
up to a moonscape of mountains, volcanos and lava
Map lafur Valsson

fields. Bathe in the world-renowned Blue Lagoon, with its

warm, healing waters. Ride the Icelandic horse. Go hiking
and caving. Catch your breathyou are just beginning!
Here, some of the first pioneers set up home. You can
see their ancient ruins. Their rich fishing fields just offshore
still provide large catches but winter storms are so fierce
they can throw ships many metres inland. Their salt fish is
famous in the Mediterranean countries.
Here, you will find the Viking longship that sailed to
America in the steps of Leif the Lucky, the first European to
discover North America in the year 1000, and the museum
for one of the worlds most famous polar explorers,
Jean-Baptiste Chacot. Take a tour with one of the
knowledgeable guides to see the area: the birdwatching
sites, the ancestral Viking house, the boiling mud springs
and steam vents, bubbling lakes, the cultural centres.
Enjoy a stay in one of the hotels, guesthouses or
camp sites and eat delicious meals in a wide variety of
restaurants, pubs and cafs. This is the Land of the Vikings!
Creating geothermal energy
Photos; courtesy of the Reykjanes Marketing Office.

102 103
 Hikers gathering

Riding in Grindavk The Blue Lagoon

Sogin Canyon Misty winter in Reykjanes

Quadbiking in Sandvk Valahnkur and Reykjanes lighthouse

Geothermal Power Plant Sandstone in Krsuvk

 has served as a concert hall
where most of the communitys local artists
have performed since its opening.
The last building to be incorporated
into the museum is the Bryggjuhsi or
the Harbour house. It is one of the more
important buildings in the Duus Hs
cluster, and the goal is to make it a mirror
image of the original.
To the local municipality, arts are an
asset to the society of man, and the fusion
of history and art makes the Duus Hs
Cultural Centre a unique place to visit.
Nearly 400,000 visitors have come to the
art museum since the opening in 2002.

A Testament to the seamen of the past

The Fishing Season (Vert) exhibition that

A Cultural Metropolis
opened in June 2012 is a documentation of
the pre-industrialised years when seamen

Reykjanes Duus Hs combines Culture and History

would head out to sea on small rowboats.
Workers from all corners of the country

T he often overlooked but must-visit

town of Reykjanesbr is the first sign of
civilisation upon arrival in Iceland. Dont be
Throughout history, the Duus Hs cluster
has been a commercial centre for the local
fishing industry and today, it is a memorial
would walk long distances to the shores of
Reykjanes where work was plentiful during
the winter season from 2nd February to 11th
bluffed by the small size of the community. museum celebrating the regions long history May. As early as the early 1800s, commercial
The wealth of activities available to visitors and with seamanship and fish processing. vessels travelled to Iceland in Spring, stocked
locals is extensive and locals are particularly with foreign products and departed in the
proud of their heritage and the intimacy they A Veritable Armada of Vessels Autumn, laden with Icelandic seafood.
share with the great North Atlantic Ocean The first house to open on 11th May 2002 was Toward the end of the 19 th century,
crashing upon its rocky shores. Btasalurinn, where over 100 models of the merchants set up shop along the coast of
The best place to discover the long tradition Icelandic fleet have been collected. The oldest Iceland. The new commercial centre became
of seamanship is at the Reykjanes Art are replicas of 19th century vessels to modern the heart of small coastal communities
Museum located in the Duus Hs Cultural 20 th century trawlers. Grmur Karlsson, erected a s a re su lt of t he indu st r ys
Centre, one of Icelands most remarkable a former sea captain, built the majority expansion. Two of the buildings in the Duus
historical documentations of life in ages past. of the collection. Other items of interest cluster are former commercial centres.
The Duus Hs Cultural Centre opened are wooden sculptures by Gumundur
its doors in the spring of 2002 when the Gararsson, and souvenirs and pictures
first stage was completed. In the years to rooted in seamanship and fish processing.
come, the Cultural Centre grew from a
single construction to a cluster of houses The World of Art
representing 100 years of architectural Listasalurinn (art gallery) opened in April 2003
history in the region, the oldest being from and numerous local and international artists
1877 and the most recent one from 1954. have exhibited their work in the gallery. For
The choice of materials changed significantly instance, the summer 2012 exhibition was a
from timber in 1877 to concrete in 1954. collection of artwork from a large collection Further in the past: The Viking World
belonging to former sea captain Matthas I f t here i s t i me to spa re, a v i sit to
Matthasson and his wife Katrn M. lafsd- Vkingaheimar or Viking World is a great
ttir. Matthas Matthasson collected art from way to end the day. It is the place to explore
around the world during his travels as a captain Norse Mythology, records of famous sagas
and was a friend and a benefactor to artists in and authentic turf houses where early
the Faroe Islands, Denmark and in Iceland. settlers lived once upon a time.
Gryfjan or the Pit Hole opened in Duus Reykjanesbr JB
Hs on 11th June. 2004, the day Reykjanesbr
celebrated its tenth anniversary. Two years Tjarnargtu 12 230 Reykjanesb
later, Bsalurinn or the Cinema Room +354 421 6700
opened its doors for cultural activities, reykjanesbaer@reykjanesbaer.is

meetings, conferences, art exhibitions and www.reykjanesbaer.is

Reykjanesbr
theatre performances. Last but not least, it

109
The Reykjanes Peninsula
fresh vegetables. Arriving
steaming hot, served on a wooden platter, it
was impressive and delicious.
Also on the menu: authentic Indian vegetable
stews, pasta dishes and a range of fresh fish,
lobster and all manner of seafood dishes. If you
are not a seafood lover, the Grilled Trio of the
House - lamb fillet, beef and pork tenderloin,
served with grilled vegetables and baked potato
allows you to sample some of the best cuts of
succulent Icelandic meat.

Sailing across the Atlantic might not seem

that impressive with the technology and
materials we have today, but one cannot but
be impressed when looking at the 18 tons of
wood and 5,000 nails used to make a wooden Harbour Dining in Old Keflavik Kaffi Duus will fulfi ll your expectations
for authentic Icelandic and international
behemoth which could survive the unforgiving Authentic Icelandic and international cuisine at Kaffi Duus cuisine in a charming location, just 5
high seas of the Atlantic Ocean Viking style!

The Whole Viking Package

I ts the classic seafood restaurant setting
overlooking Kef laviks small harbour.
caf, Kaffi Duus has evolved into a sizable minutes from the airport.
restaurant with an extensive menu, suitable Kaf Duus EMV

The World of the Vikings

From our window seat, we are treated to a for an intimate tete--tete or a special occasion
Vkingaheimar is full of informative and view of the deep blue waters of Faxafli Bay dinner for large groups. Duusgtu 10 230 Reykjanesb
entertaining exhibitions, which delve into and the snow capped mountains of Snfellness The chef regaled me with one of the +354 421 7080
The Complete Viking Experience the story of the Viking expansion across the Peninsula on the horizon. A pair of kittiwakes specialties of the house, the Seafood Trio duus@duus.is

M uch has been made of Icelands Viking Millennial Voyage Atlantic, their unique mythology, myths and glide overhead, completing the picture-perfect la Duus, comprising 3 types of fish, plus www.duus.is

heritage and many Icelanders proudly One of its prize displays is the Viking ship the archeological findings in the Suurnes setting. From its simple beginnings as small shrimp and lobster tails on a mound of
claim they possess some of the Vikings slendingur, an exact replica of a genuine region which tell the story of the settlement
most desirable traits; strength, courage and Viking ship, dated back to 870 AD, which of Iceland. After your visit youll no longer
persistence. The modern day Icelander can, was excavated almost entirely intact in wonder why so many Icelanders cling so
however, hardly be considered an accurate Norway in 1882 and is considered one of adamantly to their Viking ancestry. The
representation of the Viking lifestyle. Outside the best examples of the eras engineering Vikings accomplishments and ingenuity
of witnessing history buffs dressing up in and maritime knowledge. What makes in face of extremely harsh environments on
traditional garb in county festivals, the full the slendingur so a ma zing is that it display in Vkingaheimar speak for themselves
extent of the Vikings incredible way of life is was actually used to cross the Atlantic and when you show up at home with your
nowhere more visible than in Vkingaheimar, in the year 2000 to commemorate Leif Viking helmet on, youll actually be able to
The World of the Vikings, in Reykjanesbr. Eirikssons discovery of North-America. retell the incredible heritage that it signifies.

Iceland at Your Doorstep

When arriving to Iceland all too many tourists
hop on the first bus they see and head straight
to Reykjavk, missing out on the wonders of

Salmon in every possible form

the Reykjanes peninsula geological, historic
and cultural. Youd be well advised to book
your first night in Reykjanesbr and work
your way from there. Despite its proximity Rin Restaurant are Experts in preparing Salmon
to the airport, Reykjanesbr is no ordinary
airport town; its actually a vibrant village
with a unique history, countless activities and
T here are many different ways to prepare
salmon and the experts are only 10
minutes from the International Airport.
celebrations, events or shows. Its windows
offer a restful, panoramic view of the ocean
to the horizon, making it a popular venue
you would fi nd it worth the sacrifice! After
all, home is always there, but meals like
this are an dining experience you would be
natural phenomena to be discovered. Rin, in Kef lavik town, are specialists in for locals and visitors alike. hard-pressed to match.
Reykjanesbr VAG this delicious fish and have so many different The personalised service and well-stocked Rin
ways to prepare it that there is always more bar complements the chefs work s of
Tjarnargtu 12 230 Reykjanesb to choose from than you are able to eat! culinary art that would not be out of place Hafnargtu 19 230 Keavk

+354 421 6700 In its 23rd year and recently renovated, in any of the worlds top restaurants. +354 421 4601
reykjanesbaer@reykjanesbaer.is this elegant restaurant has the cosy style You could get so lost in your enjoyment rain@rain.is
www.reykjanesbaer.is of the 1930s Golden Years and all the of the meal that, if youre on your way www.rain.is

modern trappings needed for conferences, home, you could miss your flight! However,

110 111
The Reykjanes Peninsula
T he hotel overlook s
the picturesque small boat harbour in
At your service
Keflavik. Some of Keflaviks best walks and
restaurants are nearby. A 7-minute drive to
the International airport makes it a favourite
- Anywhere
- Anytime
choice with travellers who arrive in the
country at night or depart early. You dont
want a long trek after a tiring flight.

Many a visitor has commented that they

wished they could have stayed longer, as

I wish I could stay longer

they had enjoyed it so muchespecially
after they found they could see all the

Peace, quiet, rest and relaxation in the comfort of Hotel Berg

sights and enjoy the tours while basing
from this quiet and comfortable hotel.

S i nc e TripAdv isor.c om awa rded a

Certificate of Excellence to Hotel Berg,
you know its a special place to stay. This
Each room has an en-suite bathroom
with a washbasin, shower and toilet, a
T V a nd DV D player, with movies on
Htel Berg ASF

Bakkavegur 17 230 Reykjanesb

small, new and homely hotel in Kef lavik request, wireless Internet, high-quality +354 422 7922

Special sightseeing taxi tours

with its twelve spacious double rooms, is b e dd i n g , a f r id g e , a h a i r- d r yer a nd berg@hotelberg.is

warm, pleasant and quiet. Close to the other conveniences. Buffet breakfast is www.hotelberg.is

airport but you dont hear the planes. served as early as needed.
We specialize in personalized sightseeing
First and last stop in Iceland day trips to the natural wonders of Iceland
for small groups of 4-8 persons.
Keilir Hotel in the heart of Keflavik and Reykjanesbr
K eilir Hotel is a family business on
Keflaviks main street, within walking
distance of all the best restaurants and pubs
The quaint coastal promenade with sculptures
dedicated to local fishermen is nearby.
Keilirs hosts are Brynds orsteinsdttir
in the area. Its the perfect place in which and Ragnar Jn Sklason and their three
to stay when exploring Kef lavik or the sons, orsteinn, Ragnar and Styrmir. The
Reykjanes Peninsula - which includes the family truly put their hearts into making rooms accommodate 3-6 persons. Rooms
world-famous Blue Lagoon, or when coming people feel welcome, comfortable and of this size are unusual in hotels in Iceland
to or leaving the country. A minibus takes satisfied during their stay. but are particularly popular with families.
passengers to the Kef lavik International Keilir Hotel has 40 rooms, half facing the Rooms are equipped with free wireless Well make you a Comfortable Price offer!
airport, which is just 5 minutes away. Atlantic Ocean. The rooms have a beautiful Internet, television, telephone and mini-bar.
Keflaviks cinema and geothermal swimming view. Whales can sometimes be spotted in Keilir Hotel a lso has a conference/
pool are also within a short walking distance. the water from its windows. Keilirs larger meeting room and off street park ing.
Bicycle rental is available.
Keilir Hotel is named after Mt. Keilir,
the landmark 1000 ft. high cone-shaped
volcanic plug south of the main road along
the Reykjanes Peninsula bet ween the
International airport and Reykjavik.
Htel Keilir ASF

Hafnargata 37 230 Reykjanesb

+354 420 9800

info@hotelkeilir.is
www.hotelkeilir.is
All major credit cards accepted by the driver.
To book in advance: tel:+354 588 5522 or on www.hreyfill.is E-mail: tour@hreyfill.is
112
The Reykjanes Peninsula

Skies Covered in Colours

Reykjavik Excursions takes you to the Northern Lights Late Night Dance

A s summer gives way to autumn, the

seasons changes are immediately
apparent as the grass turns golden, then
t hat ha s to be experienced in person
to gra sp the majest y a nd beaut y that
artists and photographers try to capture.
beforehand, though naturally, the Aurora
Borealis dont appear on demand!
Should you go on a tour where they
brown and the leaves start to fall. Visitors to Nonetheless, a camera can capture even dont appear, you can join a tour another
Iceland during autumn, winter and spring more of the richness of the colour and night again free of charge, as the company
are then rewarded with an extra bonus. These beaut y, even if they cant capture the really want you to enjoy this experience.
months are generally much milder than in experience, so dont forget to take one. A guide provides commentary, counsel and
other northern European countries or North R e ykjav i k E xc u r sion s r u n re g u la r background in English on each of the trips, so
America and the beauty of the nature is nightly excursions lasting from 2 to 3 youll get the most out of this special night tour.
enhanced by spectacular displays in the skies. hours in length. Starting at 10 pm in the
After the sun has gone down and the autumn (15th Sept-15th Oct) and spring (15th To see pictures is one thing but to
days get shorter, the stage is set for the March-15th April) or 9 pm from 16 th Oct- be there when the sky is filled with
appearance of the enigmatic Northern 14th March, the tours destination varies, colour and light is quite another.
L ig ht s t hat s weep acros s t he sk y i n depending on the weather and where the Reykjavik Excursions ASF
spectacular displays that can last for hours. conditions are most likely to be optimal.
Many a visitor comes to Iceland to The weather has to generally be cold for BSI
Bs Bus Terminal 101 Reykjavk
enjoy this phenomenon in the heavens. them to appear at their best, so bear that +354 580 5400
Every night is different and you never in mind when choosing your clothing main@re.is

know what it will bring. The appearance for the trip. They seek out the sites where www.re.is

of t he Nor t hern Lights is somet hing the best displays are most likely to occur

114 115
 Adrenalin Pumping
Moonscape Riding with ATV-Adventures in Grindavk

the name. The tour also includes a stop at a

m o d e s hot spring which rumours say is haunted,

Grindavk A lt hough exploring foreign

landscapes through the window of a
o f t r a n s p o r t an old lighthouse, a look into a volcanic
for each activity, ATV crater and a chance to pick up a lava rock
of fers you a pick-up at you r that still actually feels warm to the touch.
hotel in Reykjavk or Kefl avk and several Th e 6 7 hour Volcanic Safari off ers you
moving car and the occasional stop can be options for further activities the same day. the chance to see all of Reykjanes most
quite efficient and comfortable, there is A popular choice is to make the most of dramatic locations in one exciting trip.
really nothing which compares to scaling your last day in Iceland with a car waiting That includes the birdlife in the area,
volcanic craters and speeding across sandy for you and your luggage at your hotel lunch down by the docks in the fishing
beaches on a quad-bike! ATV-Adventures in the morning, then some adrenaline town of Grindavk, the multi-coloured
in Grind av k of fers you t hat u nique pumping quad-biking, then winding up in landscapes of Vigdsarvellir and all of the
chance through its practical and thrilling the Blue Lagoon while ATV safely stores activities in the other tours.
tours on the volcanic landscapes of the your luggage before fi nally heading off to
Reykjanes peninsula. the airport in the afternoon. Safety First
Being the youngest part of Iceland AT V places special emphasis on safety
and the upper-most part of the North- Alien and Foreign Landscapes and quality equipment in their tours. All
Atlantic ridge, the Reykjanes peninsula The tours include the compact Panorama of the tour guides are required to complete
is abundant with geological wonders and Tour, which takes you up a hard mountain strenuous safety and first-aid courses and
spectacular views, including immense path for some splendid views and a ride the company works closely with the local
lava fields, hot springs, multi coloured along the coastline with stops at various rescue team to map out all possible safety
landscapes and, the most famous of all, shipwrecks. The Lava Beach Tour goes scenarios. All the quad-bikes are specially
the Blue Lagoon. You can now explore in further into the culture and history of the built for two persons, which means both
the wide array of tours ATV-Adventures area in two hours and explores the lives of riders are fully insured.
has on off er. the local fishermen in the past. VAG
ATV-Adventures
The Trip to the Moon tour takes you
Make Your Last Day in Iceland Count for a three-hour ride on top of a relatively Tangasund 1 240 Grindavk
Th e practical aspect of ATV-Adventures recent lava field, so recent that vegetation +354 857 3001
is the ability to combine excitement with has yet to get a foothold on it and smoke info@atv4x4.is

the often tedious logistics of travelling. actually steams up from underneath; an www.atv-adventures.com

Instead of having to arrange different alien and foreign landscape for sure hence

117
The Reykjanes Peninsula

The Grindavk Experience

As a result you can, for example, enjoy the lava
fields and craters and learn about the many
shipwrecks and ship rescues in the area. With
So Much More than Just the Blue Lagoon their involvement in the project, smaller

A ll too few visitors to the famous Blue

Lagoon realise that, just beyond the
surrounding hills is a wonderland of geology
an entire day talking just about one particular
cape, called Hpsnes, without anyone
becoming even remotely bored, says Sigurur.
operators have been able to present their services
on a much bigger scale, giving visitors a unique
way of experiencing the area, says Sigurur.
and historyat the centre of which is the
tranquil fishing town of Grindavk. Having Extreme Conditions Geological Wonderland
survived extreme conditions throughout the Grindavk retains a special place in history The peninsula on which Grindavk is the Blue Lagoon to Grindavk is underway.
centuries, the industrious people of Grindavk as one of Icelands prime locations for the until only a few decades ago this was one of the positioned is actually the Mid-Atlantic Ridge A park guiding you through one hundred
have now united to give their visitors a chance production of salted cod. While present day most inhospitable places imaginable. Extreme rising out of the Atlantic Ocean as a result of volcanic craters was established recently and
to get the full Grindavk Experience. Iceland has welcomed modern comforts and weather conditions, lack of vegetation, powerful underwater volcanic eruptions As you the creation of a Geopark is in the works.
technology, its important to remember that unforgiving tides, isolation, darkness, disease, can imagine, the area is bursting with energy. The Geopark concept is a collective
Unique Geology, Tranquility by the Sea famine, poverty and even pillaging pirates The region is home to over 100 volcanic craters, venue where visitors can experience history,
Sigurur li Hilmarsson, chairman of from Algeria are among the struggles that the over 200 lava tubes, lava fields, hot springs and modernity, landscape, geology, cuisine, arts,
Grindavk Experience, says the initiative has people of Grindavk have had to deal with over much more. These phenomena have however crafts, flora and fauna of the area.
exceeded most expectations, but the biggest the centuries and the only way out of these dire been somewhat hidden and hard to reach, but Grindavkurbr VAG
reward is giving people a chance to experience circumstances was through the salted cod. via the Grindavk Experience, the area has
the area which the people of Grindavk are With Grindavk Experience, visitors are been made easily accessible by walking tours, Vkurbraut 62 240 Grindavk
so proud of. The attractions here are really now able to get a better sense of how history all-terrain vehicles, bus tours, bicycle tours and +354 420 1100
limitless, with a history so rich that it would has moulded the nation of today. Through even on horseback. Signposts and paths have grindavik@grindavik.is

take days to recount. I myself have done some this initiative weve been able to merge all these already been placed throughout the lavafields www.visitgrindavik.is

guiding in the area and found I could spend divergent sources of interest into one experience. and historical sites and a new direct path from

118 119
The Reykjanes Peninsula
floors could talk. About the W hether you are
only thing that might seem out of place is the hankering for a hamburger or are looking
plaster bust of John Lennon that is suspended for a traditional lamb or beef steak, youll
from the ceiling and a large poster of the fi nd them here, as this is a restaurant with
Beatle above the piano in the corner of the a wide selection of dishes on its menu.
room. The owners are retired fishermen who Mamma Mia offers a choice of sandwiches
just happen to be big Beatle fans! with different original fillings, if youre
When the weather allows, you can sit outside looking for a lighter meal. With such a
on the deck to sip your coffee, tea or glass of variety of meals available, you can visit
wine, or enjoy the cosy atmosphere inside often and try a new dish each time.
where light lunches of soups and sandwiches or The restaura nt ser ves drink s of a ll
home-made cakes are served. On Wednesdays, kinds, including beers, wine and spirits.
the house specialty is a traditional lamb soup Its a lovely place to dine outside in the
and on Fridays its lobster soup, using the warm summer evenings, sheltered from

The Fishermans Friend

freshest ingredients, of course. a ny w i nd . T he f re sh se a a i r i s bot h
Ever y year, Caf Br yggjan hosts its stimulating and restful.

Grindavks cosy caf culture

very own Cultural Week with some of Ma mma Mia ha s seating for 30
Icelands well known poets, writers, and outside along with the 60 places inside.

W hat I love about Caf Bryggjan is its

solid authenticity in a town that has
served as one of Icelands most important
musicians, performing their works. And
if you stick around long enough, someone
may just strike up an old Beatle song on
T h i s m a ke s it a c onven ient stop for
lu n c h o r a n e v e n i n g m e a l f o r t o u r
groups visiting the museum. They also
fishing centres for the last 500 years. Located that piano in the corner! run the coffee shop in the museum, to
on the quay of Grindavks harbour, the Caf Bryggjan EMV which t he y add life w it h por tions of
popular fishermens caf has an almost sa lt f ish that you can snack on as you
museum-like feel to it. It is decorated with an Migari 2 240 Grindavk enjoy the ex hibition, besides of fering
interesting variety of sea-related memorabilia. +354 426 7100 the usual drinks and snacks.
Photo after photo of retired fi shing vessels
line the walls. The well-worn wooden floor
kafbryggjan@simnet.is
www.kafbryggjan.is Mamma Mia Seated in the coffee shop, you have a
view over the harbour and can watch the
would no doubt have some stories to tell, if Tantalise Your Taste Buds and Satisfy Your Stomach boats returning and unloading their catch.

Salty Tours owner, orsteinn, is an

expert guide. Visitors he takes on tours
G rindavks a great place to stay when
exploring and touring the amazing
sights of the Reykjanes peninsulabut,
T h i s c om f or t a bl e r e s t a u r a nt i s a
pizzeria with a full complement of pizza
si z e s a nd t y p e s , a l l h a nd-m a de a nd
consistently give him rave reviews on sites wherever you stay, theres a lways the stone-ba ked with a delicious crunchy
like TripAdvisor.com because he takes question of where to eat! Just 200 metres crust. They produce their own Mamma
them to see and do the unusual, sights from the campsiteand right opposite the Mia pizza topped with tuna, shrimp
commonly missed by tour groups but which newly-opened Magma museum, close to the and musselsa real speciality.
are easily as inspiring and interesting. His harbour, is one of the hottest additions to No restaurant in a fi shing town would
commentaries alone are worth the trip. the restaurant scene, Mamma Mia. be complete without a selection of seafood
Whether you plant your own tree or visit dishes. Grindavk is famous for its saltfi sh
a rare goat farm, stand on the continental or bacalao, as the Spanish call it, that
d i v ide or e njoy t he mu lt i- c olou re d is so popular in Mediterranean
landscape around boiling mud pools, you c ou nt rie s. A long side t h is
will certainly have fascinating memories to delicious cod dish, you will
take homeand, hopefully, plenty of fi lm a lso f ind the freshest
and photos to prove it to your friends. Yes, plaice, straight from
he can also take you to the Golden Circle, the harbour just
if you ask, but youll miss the crowds and metres away.
see them in a different light. Mamma Mia is open from 11:30 until

A Different Iceland
He l l pick you up f rom you r hotel 10 pm - or later, and you can order their
for a day you will not forget, leaving pizz a s to be delivered to your hotel,

Salty Tours takes you to places other tourists will miss

you with that, Can we do that again? guesthouse or the campsite - even the Blue
question on your lips. Lagoon and Northern Light Inn.

V isiting Iceland is a thrill. Time is

limited and you promise yourself
to return and see more. Most people
Salty Tours ASF Mamma Mia ASF

Borgarhrauni 1 240 Grindavk Hafnargata 7a Grindavk

have heard of the Golden Circle tour +354 820 5750 +354 426 9966
encompa ssing a few of t he countr ys tgk@saltytours.is mammamia@mammamia.is

highlights. However, there is so much more www.saltytours.is www.mammamia.is

to this country of hidden secrets than this.

120 121
The Reykjanes Peninsula

The Place to Stay in Grindavk

Guesthouse Borg offers economical comfort in a friendly house

I n most countries, the opportunity to

experience life in a fishing town has all
but disappeared. Not so in Iceland, where
Grindavk is one of the busiest. Situated
a few kilometres from the world-famous
Blue Lagoon, 20 minutes from Keflaviks Gue st hou se Borg is a n idea l place
International airport and 40 minutes from the to st ay, meet intere st ing people a nd
capital, the town is packed with history going enjoy the facilities and f un the town
back as far as the first settlers. A geological off ers. It caters for individuals, couples,
hotspot, the area offers such a wide array of families and groups of up to 16 people
other tours, sights and experiences that one in a clean, modestly-priced homestay
holiday is not enough. accommodation. Youll fi nd a full kitchen
where you can cook your own mea ls,
a laundry and a computer to go online.
Breakfasts are provided on a self-service
basis. Owners Bjrk and Magns make
this a comfortable home from which to
launch out to explore the area.
Guesthouse Borg ASF

Borgarhraun 2 240 Grindavk

+354 895 8686

bjorksv@hive.is
www.guesthouseborg.com

Stakkavk
Where Does That Fish Come From?
The Northern Light Inn is the only hotel in
Iceland near the Blue Lagoon. 32 cozy rooms,
family hospitality, delicious foods and Max
T he rougher the sea, the better the
f i sh i n g ! A rou nd t he R e ykja ne s
peninsula are some very rough seas. The
is boned, prepared and packed, ready to be
flown out on the afternoon fl ight daily to
Europe and the USA, where it can be on
await you, 20 minutes from KEF Keavik
International Airport.
number of shipwrecks is testament to that diners plates for lunch the following day!
fact! However, you can take a trip to see how The difference between the fresh fish
Complimentary International Airport and Blue
its done without leaving the comfort of your and frozen fish is in its quality, texture
Lagoon transfers are available anytime. Wi-Fi
internet access is free throughout the hotel. chair - and relish the freshness in the most and taste. Once you have tasted the fresh
exquisite seafood soup you have ever tasted! fish, you will be hooked!
+354 426 8650 www.northernlightinn.is Stakkavk is unique in showing visitors Not only do you get to see the whole
info@nli.is Blue Lagoon Rd. 240 Grindavk all the steps from the time the fishing boat process, but you can learn about the different
prepares to leave harbour to catch the fi sh ways to cook the fish that make it so full of it gets to them. The reputation for freshness
Golden Circle Eyjafjallajkull Blue Lagoon Volcano Garden Caving tours until you eat the freshly-landed and freshly- flavour, whether fried, steamed, baked or that Stakkavk possesses cannot be beaten!
cooked catch in the form of a delicious bowl boiled. This is a great visit for everyone who And those rough seas? You can see actual
of seafood soup. In their Grindavk visitor loves good food and would like to see how film that will forever make you thankful
centre, you can view a fi lm in the comfort for the fishermen! Even though a well-built
of their dining lounge as you enjoy that harbour has been constructed, those seas
soup! Th is video is fascinating for all ages may seem like scenes from The Perfect

as it shows all that goes into the fishing,

from start to fi nish. On board, you see the
Storm outside its walls at times!
Stakkavk
Bar & Restaurant
Vikings know how to enjoy themselvesthe
fishing community, especially. That makes
Volcano tours lines being prepared and baited. You see
scenes fi lmed underwater, showing the fish Bakkalg 15b 240 Grindavk

Volcano Tours take you to the most breath- deciding their own fate! Following the video, +354 420 8000
Grindavk popular with tourists who want to visitors can see how the fish is prepared
taking places in Iceland by luxury jeep stakkavik@stakkavik.is
experience the real culture of the country.
once it is landed from a special platform www.stakkavik.is

Hafnargata 6 240 Grindavk +354 426 9999 +354 426 8822 volcano@volcano.is www.volcanotours.is
overlooking the processing area, where it

122 123
The Reykjanes Peninsula

Natures Nuances
the exposed lava rock wall
integrated into its layout. A towering glass

Blue Lagoon Bliss

staircase brings guests to a second floor bar
where you can indulge in a drink before

B odies lie weightlessly suspended,

enveloped in mineral rich, milky blue
waters. Faces, covered with white silica masks,
A swim-up bar delivers specialised skin
masks, nourishing algae masks, exfoliating
volcanic scrubs, or luscious cocktails for
dinner. Though the Lava Restaurant & Bar
has won several architectural awards, its
design does not outdo the restaurants menu
wade slowly through shallow water. Pitted those who wish to imbibe. Guests who have which runs the gamut from light dishes to
rocks, created by the slow cooling of the lava the willpower to drag themselves from the gourmet meals.
flow from volcanic eruptions thousands of deliciously warm water are richly rewarded An exclusive lounge is set aside for guests
years ago, give the illusion of a lunar landscape. for their effort in the Lava Restaurant & who want more privacy. The six rooms
Welcome to the otherworldly Blue Lagoon. Bar. Built into a cliff, it gets its name from feature a changing area, vanity, and shower
A path leading to the main entrance takes
you into rooms accented with rich chestnut-
brown wood, framed by natural rock. Beyond
the doors of the changing rooms lies geothermal
seawater enriched with silica and algae minerals
to energize and nourish your skin. The brisk
Icelandic weather rushes you into the pool
and seconds later the warm embrace of that
geothermal seawater enfolds you.
Trained masseuses can float you effortlessly
through the water for submerged spa treatments
while soothing any tensions from your trip. They
gently place you on a raft as warm water lazily laps
over your body. Stress melts away in the healing
blue water, transforming concern into relaxed
energy, which you can take home with help from an
assortment of spa products available in the gift shop.

which open into a hall that leads to a

second floor balcony overlooking the main
pool. Downstairs in a shared lounge amid
subtly scattered curved grey chairs, fresh
fruit, tea and coffee await, while a cheerful
fi re warms the room. A small indoor pool
is reserved for guests of the lounge and
provides access, through a private entrance,
to the main pool. For those who want to
treat themselves, full meals, small dishes,
and cocktails can be ordered from the Lava
Restaurant & Bar.
Blue Lagoon KB

Grindarvkurvegur 5 240 Grindavk

+354 420 8800

bluelagoon@bluelagoon.is
www.bluelagoon.is

124
 A Mecca for Seafood Lovers
In some countries, when travelling in
a group, you may feel as if you are being

Vitinn - the Sandgeri Restaurant right at the Harbour

herded like cattle so it is a great relief to
visit a restaurant like Vitinn, where large

Y o uv e ju s t l a n d e d a t Ic e l a n d s
i nter n at ion a l a i r p or t a nd you r
stomach is rumbling! Its at least an hour
groups can be accommodated but each
one is treated to personalised service and
warm Icelandic hospitality. For those used
before you can settle into your hotel in to the smog and pollution of the cities of
Reykjavk and longer before you can fi nd the world, the freshness of the air and the

Sandgeri somewhere to eat. What you need is a good

meal and now! You could eat a standard
snack to be found the world over or
A short, 10-minute ride will bring you
relaxed lifestyle of this coastal town add
to the pleasure of being able to unwind in
comfortable surroundings and enjoy a meal
without stress or pressure.
the quickest introduction to the Icelandic Open for lunch all the year round, from
speciality cuisine and the most delicious May to September, Vitinn is open all day,
relief to that rumbling stomach that you too, so diners can enjoy the garden, or watch
could imagine thats nonetheless easy the surf as the boats come in to the harbour,
on the wallet! Whether you are alone or The menu and the presentation of each laden with fresh fish as the sun gently dips to
with a large group, Vitinn (Lighthouse) course show off Icelandic cuisine at its best. the horizon in the light evenings.
restaurant can satisfy your appetite with a Besides seafood, there is also a delicious The town is worth a visit and has its own
culinary and visual feast that sets the bar offering of Icelandic specialties such as blend of unique features and a fascinating
for quality, taste and ambiance. lamb steak. However, it is not restricted to history. After taking a stroll, stop back in at
Set next to the lighthouse, right by the classic Icelandic foods alone but provides a the highly-praised coffee house in Vitinn for
harbour where the fishing f leet lands its truly international variety. Vitinn is the only a snack of cakes, waffles and specialties from
catch, Vitinn prepares fish that could not be restaurant in Europe that provides Rock Crab the Icelandic home-baked cuisine, including
fresher! The rich coastal fishing ground has fresh from the sea. Rock Crab is a delicacy an inexpensive lunch. After that, youll be
been the source of delicious fish since the days found only on the US coast and in Iceland. ready to face the challenges and excitement
of Steinunn the Old, cousin of the first settler Children are not only welcome but are that awaits you with a fresh perspective of
in Iceland, Inglfur Arnason in the 800s. provided with a special reward when they what Iceland has to offer you, along with a
Eating in this restaurant, with its warm finish their scrumptious lunch from the very pleasant memory of your experience on
wood pa nelling a nd cosy atmosphere childrens menu. the wild coast of Sandgeri.
wou ld be enjoyable at a ny t i me but Just married, celebrating an anniversary, Vitinn ASF
it s o w n e r s , S t e f n Si g u r s s on, t h e special event, just looking for something
restaurants chef, and his wife Brynhildur distinctive for your friends or a group? Vitatorg 7 245 Sandgeri
Kristjnsdttir have surrounded the diners Vitinn makes a celebration to remember +354 423 7755
with antiques and relics from both the for a lifetime for groups with its service, info@vitinn.is

areas agricultural and fi shing past to make supplied by waiters and waitresses dressed www.vitinn.is

this a unique and fascinating experience. in national costume.

127
The Reykjanes Peninsula

Sail with Charcot

See what life was like on the polar pioneers ship in Sandgeri
Man, Sea and Nature Jean-Baptiste Charcot was born in 1867. Iceland and Greenland. The Pourquoi Pas?
Sandgeri: The Town with Ties to the Sea He took an old soapbox when he was 3
years old, scrawled Pourquoi Pas? on its
was a scientific research vessel with a library
and three laboratories on board.

S andgeri is a fishing town just 5 min.

from Keflavk International Airport. Rich
fishing-grounds are found just off the coast
Exploring Nature
There are many interesting things to do in
Sandgeri and lots of places to visit. No one
makes a round trip of the northern part of
the peninsula possible, with many beautiful
spots to visit, some of which have historical
side and set sailin the garden pool! It
sank, leaving him wet but undaunted!
French society was too superficial for him.
The ship stopped often in Iceland, where
Charcot made many friends, including
the eminent Icelandic naturalist, Bjarni Suurnesja in Sandgeri, where part of the
and in recent years, good harbour facilities should miss visiting the Nature Centre called significance. In 1892, aged 25, he bought his fi rst ship Smundsson. When the Pourquoi Pas? put ship has been reconstructed with many
have been constructed in the town. It is one ekkingarsetur Suurnesja, where visitors can A great variety of Icelandic handmade and sailed north to the Shetlands, Hebrides, into Reykjavik to repair its boiler, they had items from both the ship and Charcots
of the countrys major fishing communities, learn more about the birds, beaches and sea life souvenirs is on sale at Listatorg souvenir shop Faeroes and Iceland. a meeting that was to prove to be their last. personal belongings on display.
with a long history. In 1986, the community of the area in an unusual and exciting way. The and the handcraft workshop N-Vdd at His father died the following year, leaving This is a dramatic display that really
celebrated its 100th anniversary but its lighthouse in Sandgeri is one of few of its kind Vitatorg. Vitinn and Mamma-Mia restaurants him a large inheritance, allowing him to Disaster in the Bay gives a clear impression of life on board the
origins date back to the early settlers. in the country and is interesting to visit. are within walking distance of Vitatorg. leave medicine behind for a life of scientific The ship set sail on the 16th September, ship and is well worth a visit to the centre,
I n t he nor t he r n p a r t of t o w n i s investigation and sea-faring adventure. 1936, heading for France, when a sudden, which is close to the harbour.
Monument to Might Sandgeristjrn pond, where hundreds of Everyone needs Recreation On his first trip to the Antarctic, he charted very violent storm drove them off course, Sandgerisbr ASF
When entering the town, the poignant art migratory birds gather each spring. The A new swimming pool has been opened in more than 600 miles of new Antarctic coastline across the Faxafli Bay onto the rocks. Of
monument, lg, stands on the left side. towns oldest house, after which the town of Sandgeri with hot tubs and slides for the kids. and islands. Another, equally successful the crew of over 40 souls, only one survived. Minestorg 3 245 Sandgeri
Made by sculptor Steinunn rarinsdttir, it Sandgeri was named, stands by the pond. Then there is also an excellent new 18-hole golf expedition followed. Scott of the Antarctic The news shocked all Iceland and a memorial +354 420 7555
honours the seamen and reminds us of how It was erected in 1883. course, Kirkjublsvllur, with its elegant club nicknamed him, The Gentleman of the Pole. service was held in Reykjavik for them. sandgerdi@sandgerdi.is

small and insignificant human existence can A new road south from Sandgeri passes house. An impressive camping site with a service After the 1st World War, he led expeditions You can get an idea of what it was like on www.sandgerdi.is

be when faced with the powerful ocean. Hvalsnes and Stafnes on to Hafnir village. This building is situated in the town. to the Faeroe Islands, Jan Mayen Island, the Pourquoi Pas? at the ekkingarsetur

128 129
The Reykjanes Peninsula

Rare
Sights of Reykjanes A new road to sights unseen
W hen you land at the International
airport in Keflavik, you are just 45 min
from the capitaland youll no doubt want to
Tours to the Best Kept Secrets
Iceland wasnt called Europes best kept
secret for nothing! Experienced guides
Revealing Reykjanes
Visitors are increasingly recognising the value
of the tours to these areas and there are two
island of Eldey, weather permitting. There
are very few spots in the world to see the
tectonic plates splitting. At Sandvk, youll
be getting there as soon as you can, so you can bring the tours to life, sharing fascinating different tours available that cover the same be able to stand on two continents. The
get checked in and begin enjoying your holiday. history, anecdotes, folk tales and even ground. One (AH17) leaves at 9 am, after a brightly coloured landscape offers a great
Time is precious, but so is money, so you will scientific background and try to make each pick-up from your hotel and includes time to variety of possibilities for the photographer.
probably want to save both from the start. trip personal for every traveller. bathe in the Blue Lagoon. The second tour
Iceland Excursions-Gray Line Iceland runs This is one reason that Iceland Excursions- (AH16) also goes to the Blue Lagoon, leaving A spa before your flight
a very efficient Airport Express shuttle service Gray Line Iceland offers guided tours to the at 1 pm, which doesnt allow time for bathing The tour ends at the Blue Lagoon, where you
in comfortable coaches that leave at regular area that take in all the fascinating sights but includes all the same sights in this part of can bathe, continue with the AH16 tour, take
intervals after each flight. Not only do you get a and special attractions only found here such the Reykjanes peninsula. With a history going there, the tour stops at Kleifarvatn lake, a bus to the airport to catch your flight home
smooth trip directly to your hotel or guesthouse, world-famous Blue Lagoon - one place you as the bridge between the continents at back to the earliest settlers, there is much to see where bubbles stream up from fissures on the or one to Reykjavik directly. This flexibility
but you get an idea of things to see. defi nitely need to visit. the junction of the tectonic plates. Iceland and experience. The tour makes a short stop at bottom, through the rocks and sand. This is makes it a popular choice - as does a last tour
There is a lot of history on the peninsula After you have been safely delivered to is a geologically young land and its still the harbour of the fishing town of Grindavk, a popular spot for divers and hikers. A quick before going to the airport and heading home.
not to mention so many wildlife and your hotel, you might wonder what would stretching its musclesas youll see here. just 5 mins from the Blue Lagoon before check of YouTube videos will show why! Iceland Excursions ASF
geological attractions that youll have to be the best way to see these sights that are The country youre visiting is still on fire heading off to the geothermal area at Seltn,
come back here to discover. so unusual that your friends will think you in the basement, despite the lunar landscape, with its bubbling, boiling mud pools. Marine World and Geological Wonders Hafnarstrti 20 101 Reykjavk
On t he lef t is t he glittering ocea n Photoshopped your holiday pictures. There a result of old volcanic eruptions. There are On its return to Reykjavik, the tour The third tour, (AH19), leaving at 8 am, +354 540 1313
whilst to the right are the vast lava fi eld, are many tours you can take but the area still boiling mud pools, hot spots where also passes through the lunar landscape at takes you around the northern and western iceland@grayline.is

mountains and volcanos. Youll see the youve just passed through is one of the most steam rises freely from the waters, painting Krsuvk. You dont need an Apollo flight parts of the peninsula, visiting Sandgeri www.grayline.is

plu me s of ste a m rising up f rom t he worthwhile to explore more fully. the surrounding rocks in surreal colours. to feel what the moon must be like! From and taking in the marine sights, such as the

130 131
 West Iceland Nature steeped in History and Beauty - Discover West Icelands rich culture and nature

T
heres much more to West Iceland than the
spectacular Snfellsjkull, made famous by Jules
Verne, gleaming white in the sunshine. The beauty
and variety of Icelandic nature is everywhere. Magnificent
Map lafur Valsson

views overlooking mountains and glaciers, fertile regions,

colourful birdlife, abundant rivers and lakes, fjords and
bays, along with gushing geothermal activity.
But West Iceland is more than magnificent nature. Land
and history form an unbroken whole as the setting for sagas
like Sturlunga, Egils Saga, Eyrbyggja and Laxdaela, not to
mention the rich folklore and tales of adventure. Tours bring
history to life as museums and historical sites abound.
For the outdoor enthusiasts, there is enough to keep
them busy all summer long. Horse riding tours are
popular, as are hiking, fishing and golf. At the end of an
active day, there are plenty of swimming pools and hot
pots to relax in. Accommodation covers the complete
range from sleeping bag to hotel.
The mystical Breiafjrur bay, with its countless islands
is home to all kinds of sea life and tours out into the bay will
visit islands covered in birds, with some offering sea fishing.
The tourist information office in Borgarnes provides a
wealth of helpful material.
Arnarstapi, a small fishing village at the foot of Mt.Stapafell
Photos; courtesy of the West Iceland Marketing Office.

132 133
Icelandic moss at Bifrst

Arnarstapi is a small fishing village at the foot of Mt. Stapafell At the Shark Museum in Bjarnarhfn

Stykkishlmur At The Settlement Centre in Borgarnes National Park Snfellsjkull glacier

 The church at Bir, Snfellsnes

Snfellsjkull glacier hovering above Arnarstapi area By Hraunfossar waterfall

Eirksstair, birthplace of Leifur Eirksson - Leif the Lucky,

who was the first European to set foot in America By the dock at Stykkishlmur
 Designer with a Golden Touch
receiving various other prizes and awards.
Attending The Icelandic Skills Competition

Drfinna Torfadttir, Master Goldsmith and Designer of Jewellery

in September 2007, she also was awarded
the fi rst prize for both mens and womens

R aised in the one of Icelands oldest

towns, safjrur, goldsmith Drfinna
Torfadttir has developed a distinct, personal
her graduation, she opened a studio and a
giftshop in safjrur, the latter which she
still runs, offering jewellery and giftware to
jewellery piece of the year.
The beautiful pieces of jewellery and
other creations can be found and bought
style as a designer of jewellery, characterised customers. Today she lives in Akranes where in Epal Design Store at Keflavik Airport, in
by an original and often unconventional use she operates a small studio-workshop/gallery Lisths feigs in Reykjavik, at Goldsmith
of materials and a daring execution. Icelandic where she composes her jewellery, sculptures Sds in Reykjaviks old harbour and in
nature is a notable influence in most of her and relief art murals. Gullauga, safjrur.
work, and she is considered among the most Drnna Torfadttir SP
significant goldsmiths and designers of Bringing Nature to Design
jewellery in Iceland. Goldsmith Drfinna was, in the years 1997- Stillholt 16-18 300 Akranes
D r f i n n a pu r s u e d he r s t u d ie s i n 1999, awarded fi rst prize for her designs at +354 464 3460
Akureyri, North-Iceland and in Valdres, the Icelands yearly competition for fashion diditorfa@simnet.is

Norway, earning her certificate as master jewellery and she has participated in a www.diditorfa.com

goldsmith in the early eighties. Following number of private and group exhibitions,

Akranes Eat like the locals

Gamla Kaupflagi is a popular place for locals and foreigners to meet
F or more tha n three years, Ga mla
Kaupflagi has been one of the most
popular restaurants in Akranes, enjoyed
by locals as well as tourists. With a great
variet y of dishes, this restaura nt ca n
satisfy every hungry customer.

You name it
From popular pizzas, pasta and burgers
to soup, barbecue ribs and lamb f illet.
You will f ind something appetising as A bar after 10
Akranes Folk Museum Icelands Sport Museum you shuff le through this big menu! Open The last food order is normally at 10 p.m. But
Mineral Kingdom Play area for kids
from noon till ten in the evening, this is on the weekends, Gamla Kaupflagi turns into

Birta Guesthouse
the restaurant where locals stop by for Akranes local pub, where folks enjoy a drink
the big salads, yummy pizzas baked in with friends and chat till 3 in the morning. It is
a brick oven on birch, Icelandic lobster often a venue for troubadours and concerts. So,
soup or the homemade ice-cream. Good food doesnt have to be expensive come and enjoy the local atmosphere with the
This locally run summer guesthouse Portions are not small here, says Gsli friendly people of Akranes!
is located in Akranes, a small fishing
town reachable within a 45 minutes
dr ive from R eyk jav i k. We of fer
Garakaffi Sigurjn rinsson, restaurant manager.
Taking that into consideration, you will
Gamla Kaupflagi AB

Located within the Akranes Museum not have to take a lot of money out of your Kirkjubraut 11 300 Akranesi
32 rooms in the local high school Centre, Gara Caf invites you to stop pocket to dine here. Dont worry about not +354 431 4343
dormitory during summer break. by for light refreshments, teas & coffee. fi nding a table. The restaurant takes up to gamlakaupfelagid@skaginn.is

Vogabraut 4 300 Akranes +354 695 62 55 Grum 300 Akranes +354 431 5566
230 people, nicely divided into two rooms www.gamlakaupfelagid.is

info@birtabirta.is www.birtabirta.is gudnihh@simnet.is www.museum.is and a terrace for sunny days.

139
West Iceland

They Love Life

Akranes is for people who enjoy nature, culture, life and fun
E arly Celtic pioneers made a good choice
when they set up home Akranes. Its a
haven for nature lovers, bird lovers, beach
for Iceland. There are changing facilities and
a sun veranda right next to it. Hot showers
and a jaccuzzi make it a relaxing place to
It has been abandoned now since the winters
rough seas spray right over it. Both are open to
visitors and provide a beautiful panoramic view
in the centre of town; art and crafts are found
everywhere, as is writing, singing and poetry.
One of the highlights of the year is the
stones which show just how colourful Iceland
is. There is always a temporary exhibit on
display. Currently, there is a photo gallery of
lovers and history buffs. Those settlers would enjoy the long summer evenings. of the Akranes area and all the way to Keflavk. Irish festival in early July with a variety of past residents that gives a fascinating insight
be surprised today at the small fishing town Akranes is surrounded on three sides by This is the land of the Celts and, for events that will keep the die-hard party addict into the character of the people. Work is
that has built up around their early dwellings. the seawhich gives plenty of scope for some the history buff, there is much to see. The happy. Its a big family event that includes starting shortly on the construction of The
You can see Akranes gleaming in the good fishing. Since the camp site is right next spiritually-minded Celts travelled in small everyone in the funlocal and visitor alike. Celtic Cultural Centre, which will bring
sunshine across the bay from the harbour in to one of these fishing spots, catching your boats covered in skins that seemed to survive Akranes is a family town and there are scientifically documented evidence together
Reykjavik. Its only a bus ride away, with the dinner is all the easier, if youre a fisherman. on a wing and a prayer, relying on miracles plenty of activities from golf to football (their of the Celtic influence and history. But then,
regular bus service taking you past picturesque The geography of the area is really inspiring rather than engineering prowess like the top team boasts several stars who have gone just look at the number of fair-skinned red-
farms, setting the stage for the variety of nature for hikers, who have all levels of hiking open Vikings. In fact, it is said that Saint Brendan to famous international clubs). There is a heads and youll see how strong it is.
and bird life as you approach the town. Once to themincluding the mountain that forms tested his faith in these little craft against great barbeque area in the park, surrounded example of a 3-masted cutter, the indoor Akraneskaupstaur ASF
there, the local bus service is free. the backdrop to the town and, to a large the wild Atlanticfaith and prayers that by trees, with games and crazy golf. Walking section has samples of practically every
Akranes is a very popular place for camping extent, protection from the northerly winds. clearly kept them, as they had a thriving and cycling are popular pastimes with paths aspect of the fishermans life. Next to it is Stillholti 16-18 300 Akranesi
and caravans. The sites are well set up with all The summer is usually warm and pleasant community around Akranes. of different lengths to enjoy. another unusual museum: The Icelandic +354 433 1000
the facilities easily available. Shops and the but the same cannot be said for the winter! If That community spirit not only survives The museum area is really worth visiting. Sport Museum. Check out the footsteps on tomas.gudmundsson@akranes.is

two swimming pools are close by. There is you take a look at the two lighthouses, youll but thrives today, as the townsfolk love all Besides examples of fishing vessels down the the floor. A Geological museum is housed in www.akranes.is

also the golden sand beach, which is unusual see the smaller one is a little closer to the sea. forms of culture. The Music School is right years displayed outside, including the only the same building with a large collection of

140 141
Borgarnes The Saga Land of West Iceland
collective museum in Borgarnes, which houses
a library, a nature museum and an art gallery.

Borgarbygg is Blessed with Warmth, Ice, History and Beauty

Borgarnes and Borgarfjrur are home
to one of the greatest sagas, Egils Saga, and

B orgarbygg is the name of a large conditions, the area has many greenhouses starting from the Settlement Centre, you
municipality in the central area of West and numerous outdoor swimming pools.
Iceland. The main town is Borgarnes and
can follow the informative guide from the
For outdoor lovers, Borgarfjrur has a Information Centre in Borgarnes.
area is called Borgarfjrur. They are one large number of easy and hard hiking trails
of the best loved parts of Iceland, not least through its lovely nature, along the coast, Stay and Enjoy
for the soft and warm beauty and prominent through valleys, forests and lava fields. A There are a number of excellent restaurants
contrasts in its nature. Though partly number of companies in Borgarfjrur offer and cafs in Borgarnes and Borgarfjrur. You
covered with lava and reaching up to barren guided horse riding tours, guided hiking will also find diverse types accommodations,
highlands, most of Borgarfjrur is quite rich tours and jeep tours and a guided tour to the from camp grounds to B&Bs, to summer
and fertile, an excellent farming area. Here largest lavacave in Iceland. The area also cottages, guesthouses, Open Farms and
you find the largest birch forests in Iceland, offers a number of golf courses, ranging Hotels. Whichever you choose, you will always
diverse types of lava fields and lava caves and from nine to eighteen holes and mostly find good service, a friendly atmosphere and
such beautiful waterfalls as Hraunfossar, located in areas where the midnight sun cleanliness. In the area you also find countless
Barnafoss, Glanni and many others. The can be enjoyed to the fullest. handicraft galleries and shops, as well as stores,
highlands and the west part of Langjkull bakeries and a farmers market.
glacier are easily accessible in summertime. The Sites of Sagas
For the saga and culture fans, the area has a Markasstofa Vesturlands SS

Enjoy Summers warmth numerous exhibitions and museums: The

Weat her wise, it is possibly t he most Settlement Centre in Borgarnes a heritage Borgarbraut 58-60 310 Borgarnes
fortunate part of Iceland, as the numerous museum which has a lovely restaurant and a +354 437 2214
summer camps and cottages scattered theatre with various productions in English; upplysingamidstod@vesturland.is

all over the area and the verdant forests Snorrastofa in Reykholt; The Agricultural www.vesturland.is

and fauna testify. With great geothermal Museum at Hvanneyri; and the Safnahsi

143
West Iceland

Settling for More

Curiosity about Icelandic
history is not the only hunger satisfied by the

A Condensed Version of History in The Settlement Centre, Borganes

Settlement Centre, which features a bright
and spacious restaurant on its second floor.

I celandic history is not for the faint

of heart. Defined by the exploits of
adventurous Nor wegian colonists and
several la ng u a ge s, t he power of t he se
narratives is of ten lost in a minef ield
of patronymic homage to ancestors who
written during the Middle Ages, Icelands kept thorough records.
bloody past is a challenge to understand The need for a condensed version of
una ided. Murderous fa mily riva lries Icelands past led to the creation of the
coupled with escalating strife between Settlement Centre, which brings Icelandic
Iceland and Norway was recorded histor y to life. Two ex hibits initiate
in several volumes of visitors into Icelands founding and vividly

Stay and See the Midnight Sun A generous breakfast is available and
dinners can also be provided, cooked on
h i s tor ic a l re c ord s
a nd s a g a s. W h i le
detail Egils Saga, one of the main epics
written in the 13 th century, by adopting
Borgarnes B&B is the ideal home away from home location by a professional chef. Or, a guest these deeds have been theatrical elements to imaginatively retell Prepared using five element principles which

B y the Borgarnes shoreline, with a

wonderful view of the midnight sun
is Borgarnes B&B. A beautiful house, ideal
course, it is just as ideal for a single person
or a couple to stay for a night or few.
Borgarnes is located in an area rich in
can do his/her own cooking. A grocery shop
is within a walking distance and the dining
room is well equipped with porcelain,
translated into well-known tales. Interactive displays,
including a Viking ship simulation of the
fi rst journey from Iceland to Norway and
focus on balanced nutrition, the Settlement
Centres restaurant serves up a tasty array of
choices. A local favourite is the lunch
for large families and small groups, it can history and culture, activities and leisure, cutlery and glassware. Next door is the most lively renderings of characters from Egils buffet of soup, salads, and homemade
accommodate up to 18-20 guests. And of fi shing and farming, and thus a very good original playground for children, designed Saga sculpted by different artists in breads prepared
choice to establish a kind of homebase when and built by one of the towns craftsmen. unique media, do justice to detailed
travelling around the west part of Iceland. Borgarnes B&B SS descriptions of Icelands origins from
Borgarnes B&B provides all the home the 13th century Book of Settlement and
comforts with clean and airy rooms, free Sklagata 21 310 Borgarnes
internet access, two large bathrooms and +354 434 1566
a large, very well equipped kitchen, a cosy borgarnesbb@internet.is

livingroom with a fireplace and a lovely, www.borgarnesbb.is

tranquil veranda.

The English House With History and Soul

Cosy, traditional family home away from home
I ts always nice to feel at home and eat
a delicious, traditional cuisine. Better
still, when that home is in the Icelandic
Ensku hsin (The English Houses) has
been family-run as a guesthouse for three
generations, with a fascinating history,
fishing rights. On his death, an English
lady, Mrs. Kennard, bought it, she and her
fishing friends coming each summer. She
countryside, right by the Sjvarfoss or sea providing a homey feeling to guests. hired local people as staff and it acquired its
waterfall, marking the point where river Carpenter Ptur Ptursson built it in name out of respect for her. She was forcibly
Lang meets the seas salt waters and where 1884 for his family, When he moved, it shipped home by the British ambassador
salmon leap on their way upstream. became a fishing lodge owned by the priest after the war broke out and never returned, Snorri Sturlusons renowned depiction of fresh daily. In the evenings, a dinner menu
at Borg, the farm that was formerly home selling it to an Icelandic merchant, Geir Egill Skallagrmsson, Icelands foremost caters meatier dishes of lamb, fish, and
to Egil Skalla-Grmsson, the warrior-poet Zoega, who had cared for it. He then sold it w a r r ior-p o e t . T he s e i m a g e s , pa i re d occasionally horse.
who wrote his first poem whilst drunk to a young farmer, Jhannes Gumundsson, w it h a mu lt i ling u a l iPod g u ide, a re The Settlement Centre has expanded its
at the age of 3. The Scottish Lord Oran whose family later rebuilt it, turning it into designed to leave an indelible impression current exhibitions with a third project, a GPS
Campell next bought the house, river and a very comfortable guesthouse. on visitors. Run by husband and wife guided tour of its surroundings in Borgarnes.
Open all year round, its an ideal place team Kjartan Ragnarsson and Sigrur Since many scenes from Egils Saga have
for individuals and families, celebrations or Margrt Gumundsdttir, the Settlement unfolded close to the Settlement Museum, the
small conferences. In summer, its a beautiful Centre was founded with the desire to GPS winds visitors through countryside where
location to base from while exploring this associate places with Sagas and stories the sagas took place. Visitors can then listen on
rich and diverse area with its spectacular from historical texts. Enriched with this the spot to stories from the sagas, giving a sense
features and colourful history. background knowledge, visitors can then of place to vast stretches of history.
Ensku hsin ASF easily appreciate the connection between The Settlement Centre EMV
Icelands past and present; its places and
By river Lang 311 Borgarbygg stories. One hour is all it takes to get the 13 -15 Brkarbraut 310 Borgarnes

+354 437 1826 gist of Icelands last thousand years, with +354 437 1600
enskuhusin@simnet.is the Settlement Centre handpicking choice landnam@landnam.is
www.enskuhusin.is morsels to whet visitors appetites for www.landnam.is

Icelandic history and sagas.

144 145
West Iceland

Enjoy Icelandic Farm Life Deep in Natural Wonders

I n t he v ic i n it y a r e up beds. Owners Steinunn
Reykholt, Deildartunghver, the largest hot and Smundur will be more than happy to
A Superb View of the Dale from Steindrsstair Gamli Brinn Bed & Breakfast at Hsafell
spring in Europe in terms of volume of water, point you in the right direction to the natural
Barnafoss, Hraunfossar and Hsafell. An wonders in the area, among them:

S teindrsstair in Reykholtsdalur Valley is

a fully functional farm that offers bed and
breakfast in a warm and welcoming farmhouse.
interesting hiking route along Rausgil offers
a wonderful view of the many waterfalls in
the canyon and the forest of Steindorsstair is
D riving north towards Akureyri in
the Spring, I decided to wander off
the ring road near the town of Borgarnes
Surtshellir - a lava tube, the longest cave
in Iceland at (1970 m or 6463 ft)
Just a stones throw away are some of the most peaceful and inviting. Its an ideal base to travel to do some exploring. Forty minutes later, Hraunfossar - a series of low cascading
beautiful places in Borgarfjrur. The Icelandic from around the valleys of Borgarfjrur, seeing I found myself at Hsafellan area rich falls that come up through the lava plain.
highlands await above the farm with glaciers, all the sights and returning in the evening for in histor y with severa l extraordinar y Barnafoss falls
lava caves and panoramic views of extraordinary some pampering and rest. waterfalls, two scenic glaciers and some Langjkull and Eirksjkull Glaciers
mountains. The same family has owned the pretty amazing people.
farm since 1828 and the old residential home, Enjoy the comforts of home Hsafell is a service village nowadays, Beautifully sculpted rocks, the work of
where the guest rooms are, was built in 1937 A dd i ng to t he at t rac t ion i s t he f ac t but in former times it was a sprawling estate sculptor and musician Pll Gumundsson,
after a fire had destroyed the turf house that that this is a working farm with cows, with a farm and rectory under the care of himself the great, great, great grandson
had been the homestead for centuries. The fire from the living room. The household, a total horses, sheep, forestry and corn growing. the 18th century Pastor Snorri Bjrnason. of Pastor Snorri, are scattered around the
occurred during a dry spell so it was impossible of eleven people, took up residence in the sheep T he f a rm a n i ma l s a nd t he f ac t t hat The old farmhouse from 1908, known today grounds. A fascinating artist and musician,
to control and the family lost nearly all their shed where they lived for three months until t his is a home ma ke it exceptiona lly as Gamli Brinn, has been renovated and Pll is also known for his marimba-like
belongings. They only managed to save some they could move into the then new house. interesting and inviting. Staying at such turned into a quaint bed and breakfast that instrument made of stones. Pll and the
of their better clothing and odds and ends a diverse Icelandic farm is educational offers sleeping bag accommodation and made Sigur Rs band did a performance using the
Rising from the ashes as well as comfortable. Enjoy Icelandic steinnharp, as it is called in Icelandic, several
The top floor was added around 1950 and the hospitalityits first class. years ago in the Surtshellir lava tube cave.
first floor was enlarged around 1965. Total Steindrsstair ST.S Gamli brinn Hsafelli EMV
renovation of the building was conducted
from spring 2009 until the opening of the Reykholt 320 Borgarfjrur Hsafell 311 Borgarbygg
guesthouse in June 2010. A large terrace with +354 435 1227 +354 895 1342
a hot tub is situated in front of the house steindorsstadir@steindorsstadir.is sveitasetrid@simnet.is
none
where guests can relax, enjoy the view and www.steindorsstadir.is

languish after a long day of travelling.

The goats are very likeable, playful and

more like pets than lifestock, says Jhanna.
From her stock, she makes ointments,
soaps and fine cashmere wool; from the
skin, inner soles, hats and cases for cognac
fl asks. Th en, in the autumn, she sells the
goat meatwhich is as rich of protein as

Golfing in the Dales

beef and has as little fat as chicken.

Goats and Roses

sites of the entire Borgarfjrur area. Close A n o t h e r a t t r a c t i on a t H a f e l l i s

Golf balls on the greens replace cow herds in the pastures

by is Snorrastofa, the medieval culture Jhannas Rose Garden. With 180 types

Saved from Extinction, Goats breed in Borgarbygg

centre, with its library and museum. Now, of roseswhich is no mean achievement

A fter farming for over 44 years, first

with his father and later with his son,
Bjarni, with his wife, Sigrn, were faced
Golfers are always looking for new courses
to challenge their skills. Iceland is becoming
well known as an interesting location to
less than 2 hours from Reykjavk on road
no. 518, is a 9-hole golf course, complete
with putting green and driving range for all T he Icelandic goats at Hafell in
Borgarbygg are the oldest and purest
resulting in the goats becoming nearly extinct
in Iceland. Today there are only 800 in the
in the harsh Icelandic climate, along with
lavender, violets and herbs and grasses
from the moorshe makes bath-salts and
with a choice: retire and quit orpioneer play. The par 70 course is enjoyable for the world to enjoy, the result of Bjarni and goat stock found in Europe today. Their country, so they are still an endangered species. scrubs. Her little homestead shop is both
something new. They sold their livelihood anyone interested in the sport, regardless Sigrns tenacity and vision. arrival dates back to the Settlement in Iceland, The farmers at Hafell, Jhanna and interesting and original.
and poured their everything into a bold new of their skill level. They have a guesthouse Nes in Reykholtsdal ASF around 930 AD. For centuries, they were the orbjrn, were running a traditiona l Hafell Geitab SS
idea. They built a golf course, a club house with both made-up beds and sleeping bag main source of food for the islanders but, due Icelandic farm with cows and sheep until
with massage facilities and a jacuzzi and a accommodation, bathing and cooking Reykholt 311 Borgarnes to a long climate cooling period during the 2000 when they decided to focus solely Hafell Hvtrsu 320 Reykholt
restaurant on their farm in the beautiful facilities. It is open all year for travellers to +354 435 1472 Middle Ages, they were replaced by sheep on goat farming, after working to increase +354 845 2331
Reykholtsdalur. The restaurant also has enjoy each season, providing a lovely place to bgnes@vesturland.is with their coarse wool being better suited for their herd for eleven yearssince 1989, haafell@gmail.com

excellent facilities for small conferences and relax in and enjoy the beautiful nature, with www.farmholidays.is long periods of freezing cold weather. Since when they adopted the last four goats www.geitur.is

meetings for up to 60 people. its waterfalls and hills and the rich historical then, the emphasis has been on the sheep, without horns left in Iceland.

146 147
 History Brought to Life
A statue of Snorri by
Gustav Vigeland stands in front of the old

The Snorrastofa Cultural and Medieval Centre is in Reykholt

district school, which was used between
1931 a nd 1997. Today t he beautif u l

S norri Sturluson (1179-

1241), Icelands best
k nown Saga writer and
building, designed by Gujn Samelsson,
is administrated by Snorrastofa, offering
apartments and study facilities for scholars,
scholar, is the author along with meeting and conference facilities.
of such important
and famous works The Reykholt Churches
as Heimskringla, There are two churches in Reykholt: the
which is one old church, consecrated in 1887, now
of the most beautif u lly restored by t he Nationa l
important sources of Museum of Iceland, and the new church
Scandinavian history, bu i lt b e t we en 1988 a nd 19 9 6 . T he
Snorra Edda, a new church is known for its strikingly
handbook on poetry designed windows (designed by Valgerur
and mythology and Bergsdttir) and its acoustics. The church
probably one of the is situated on his ancient homestead, is famous for its concerts all year round.
very best Sagas of which is considered one of Icelands most A classical music festival of the highest
Icelanders, Egils noteworthy historical sites. Snorrastofa quality, The Reykholt Music Festival is held
Saga, the story of manages research, a library, an exhibition annually on the last weekend in July.
the Viking poet Egill Skallagrmsson.
Snorris records of the Old Norse language
and Nordic mythology are invaluable to
modern scholars. The quality of his writing
made him the foremost historical writer of
medieval times throughout Europe. His
style, bringing his characters to life, makes
fascinating reading even today.

Reykholt Snorri was a wea lthy and powerful

chieftain in the age of unrest and civil war
preceding Icelands loss of independence. He
was murdered by his enemies in his home on
the 23rd September 1241.

Snorrastofa
Snorrastofa, the Cultural and Medieval
Centre in Reyk holt in West Iceland,
was founded in memor y of Snorri. It

about Snorri and conference facilities. It Sn or r a s t of as e x h i bit i on, Sn or r i

also runs a tourist reception and a souvenir Sturlusons Saga, can be visited all year
shop, which offers books, postcards and round. During the summer season, (1st May
Icelandic designs, some exclusively for sale 31st August), the opening hours are from
in Snorrastofa. A new exhibition, The 10 to 18 every day, and during the winter
Snor r i St u rlu son Sa g a, c a n now b e season, from 10 to 17 on weekdays and, if
visited in Snorrastofa. It tells the story booked in advance, during weekends.
of Snorris exciting life, addressing issues Snorrastofa
such as upbringing, education, writing,
properties and manors. Reykholt 320 Borgarfjrur
Snorris bath (a geothermally heated +354 433 8000
pool) can be seen outside along with the snorrastofa@snorrastofa.is

tunnel which led from his private manor www.snorrastofa.is

directly out to the pool.

149
West Iceland

Its Time to Enjoy Life

Put Your Feet Up and Stay Awhile in Munaarnes
J ust 95 km north of Reykjavik, lies a 65
hectare tract of birch-covered land on
ingredients wherever possible, using the
slow cooking method that gives them
Reykjavik and have no plans to return there
any time soon. Its not hard to see why.

The Ideal and Idyllic

the banks of the peaceful Norur river. such fl avour. Trout, salmon and Icelandic
Its a place where Icelanders go to get away
lamb are the restaurants specialities Drop In
from the stress of city life and is a favourite
a long w it h goat t hat is fa st g a in ing Dropping by for lunch or dinner is very
haunt for families, too. popularity here. The succulent Limousin- beneficial and its a beautiful place to stop Caters for Conferences, Large Meetings, Seminars and Symposiums
Fifty-six rustic, self-contained cottages
are scattered throughout the park-like
grounds, some sleeping 6 to 8, while others
Galloway beef from a nearby farm is used
in all Munaarnes home-style burgers
and steaks. A variety of home-baked cakes
for a coffee and snackespecially so if you
are facing a long drive or taxing work. Even
a short visit has a good effect on your mood
B orgarf jrur on the west coast of
Iceland has an immensely rich and
colourful history dating back to Egils Saga,
Conference and Seminar Specialists
The hotel has excellent facilities for conferences
as well as large and small meetings, seminars
are ideal for couples, but all come with theand desserts served with excellent fair- and spirit. There is just something about this undoubtedly one of the greatest Icelandic and symposiums. With four conference halls,
usual summer cottage life-style, an invitingtrade coff ee rounds off the meal. tranquil valley resort and restaurant that Sagas. It is fi lled with an amazing diversity auditoriums and rooms for work-groups, each
hot tub and grill out on the deck. Th is is not a fast-food restaurant, where helps everything flow that much better. of nature and natural resources as well as equipped with the latest technology, it is the
Munaarnes can accommodate up to you grab your food and run. Here, you sit Th is is why it is also a favourite place for great facilities for outdoor activities. ideal place for melding groups together and
300 guests, year-round, making this an back and enjoy - not just the food, but the families. The calming influence can make At the heart of this area is Hotel Bifrst, connecting co-workers based in different geothermal swimming pools as well as the
unparalleled place for family reunions, tourservice and the whole ambience. long drives so much more pleasant. The a lovely hotel at the scenic location of the corners of the world. Grbrk and Raubrk volcano craters.
groups and conferences. Its therapeutic value cannot be measured children can burn off some of that pent-up University community at Bifrst. The hotel At Hotel Bifrsts gym and sports facilities The hotel has an excellent restaurant with
except in the rela xed smiles of those energy in the playground before eating. is accessed from the Ring road, Route No. you will fi nd massage hot tubs, a paddling an emphasis on a healthy menu based on local
Slow Down returning to their everyday lives with Each season adds its own charm, making 1, an hour and a half drive from Reykjavk. pool, sauna and solarium. It also has a hobby ingredients and a very nice caf, open every
Here, life is not rushed, it is enjoyed. At renewed vigour and inspiration. every visit different. Hotel Bifrst has four f loors with 51 room where you can play pool, table tennis day, offering light meals, sandwiches and
Images by Gabriel Rutenberg

the restaurant, r and Stefana create Thoroughly loving what they do, Stefana Reading through the guest-book, I was double and family rooms. All the rooms and attend a variety of activities. A short walk cakes. It also offers bagged lunches to its guests
succulent meals, selecting locally grown and r have no regrets about leaving impressed with the many positive comments are nice and bright with ample space, a away is the Glanni nine-hole golf course, to take on hiking or biking tours or just to
from visitors. As one young person so aptly separate bathroom, satellite TV and internet considered to be one of the most beautiful enjoy in your favorite spot indoors or outdoors.
put it, Th is is the place where I fell in love connection with access for the disabled. golf courses in Iceland. A basketball field In close proximity to the hotel there is a grocery
with Icelanda fitting sentiment that pretty and a small soccer field are adjacent to Hotel store where you can get freshly baked bread. It
much sums up the Munaarnes experience. Bifrst, suitable for all age groups. is open every day except Sunday.
Munaarnes EMV However, you dont have to be attending a Htel Bifrst SS
conference to enjoy the hospitality of Hotel
Munaarnesi 311 Borgarnes Bifrst. It is open all year round to those Htel Bifrst 311 Borgarnes

+354 525 8440 who appreciate the tranquility and beauty of +354 433 3001
munadarnes@munadarnes.is the area. It is an area with excellent hiking hotel@bifrost.is
www.munadarnes.is and biking routes, salmon rivers and trout www.hotelbifrost.is

lakes, historical sites from the Viking era,

150 151
West Iceland

Black & White or Colour? Which experience will you take home?

W hats the difference between a black

& white picture and a colour one?
They display the same image but theres a
A plain drive was transformed with a richness
of history, nature, geology and understanding.
Here is a trip to one of the most famous parts
you understand the kind of people the Vikings
of today call their ancestors.
You go down to the seashore to see the
Seeing the rusting bits of twisted iron How had I never seen that before, nor heard
from the ship-wrecked trawler washed up about the pool he bathed in or where he lives?
world of richness in the colour version that of Iceland - brought to a wider public through geese swimming and the seals sunning on the black beach and seeing the pounding Then there are natures own sculptures
is missing in the black & white. Th ats the Jules Vernes Journey to the Centre of the themselves whilst so many varieties of surf gave me more of a clear idea of the - dramatic rocks down to delicate moss,
difference between driving yourself around to Earth. Despite its fame, however, there are so birds swoop and plunge around you. Th is tough lives these men lived and the risks clinging precariously to the lava.
see Iceland and taking a guided tour. many secrets to be revealed on this 500 km. is up-close and personal. they took fi shing these seas. I never knew I took a tour today and took away a totally
I have visited Snfellsnes for the last 10 years. round trip that make this tour of such greater If I pick up a 20 kg. stone and carry it, I how many men lost their lives fishing in different experience from my own visits to
I know the scenery - and love it! However, I got value than just looking at sights on your own. think Im pretty strong - but Id be classed open row boats, trying to make a living and the area. I came home much richer for it.
more out of one day tour than in all those 10 This is no stale see-the-sights coach tour. It is as useless, if that was all I could carry! provide for their families in past centuries. Reykjavik Excursions offers trips to many
years of trips put together. I saw places I had a plunge into a vibrant, living realm that brings Id never heard of the useless stone, Here is living history! different parts of the country; each one as
never been to - places off the beaten track. I you into the world of Iceland and makes you a the weak stone, the half-strength or That sculpture of the giant, brilliant in its unique as the locations they visit, brought
learnt the background behind places I had part of it. The guide brings the tour to life with full-strength stones used to test a mans simplicity but powerful in its presentation! fully to life by professional guides.
merely driven past with barely a passing glance. anecdotes from the Sagas, history that helps fitness to be a fisherman.

Reykjavik Excursions

BSI Bus Terminal 101 Reykjavk

+354 580 5400

main@re.is
www.re.is

152 153
West Iceland

Between the Mountains and the Sea

If you arrive for a good lunch, there is a choice
of fish or vegetable soup, fish of the day and fish

Kast Guesthouse offers a Natural Stress-Relieving Break

stew. The deserts are that delicious chocolate
cake or waffles with whipped cream, caramel

W ith Snfellsjkull glacier towering

above, steep mountains behind it
and the sea before it, Lsudal farm, on the
across the road to enjoy. The streams
from spectacular mountain waterfalls are
crystal clear and, just 2 minutes away, the
There are tours of between one and three
hours daily, with longer tours also available for
groups. In fact, groups tours in winter are really
sauce and mintsomething you must try!
For dinner, starters include fish soup,
vegetable soup, trout marinated in dill, or
southern side of the Snfells peninsula, has swimming pool at Lsuhll is renowned special, as the guesthouse is open all year round. mussels - these as a starter or main course.
the best of all worlds. In 2011, the family for its nutrient rich waters cleansing and Other main courses could be fish stew,
opened Kast guesthouse on its land to share healing effects on the skin. Strength for the Day catfish with ginger and soya, cod steak
its beauty with others. Whether you are planning vigorous or fried in butter with rose pepper, basil and
When we were in the area this year, we relaxed activities in the fresh air, you will sun-dried tomatoes or lamb with red wine
wanted to stay there as it is such a beautiful want a good breakfast to start with. Here, sauce. The menu varies depending on the
location. Ten of the double rooms have en Lyda, the guesthouse manager, has an ace availability of the fresh ingredients.
suite bathrooms and the remaining six are up her sleeve. Her brother is a baker who For desert, there are pancakes or chocolate cake
with shared bathrooms. There are two rooms supplies a wide range of freshly baked foods and there is a good selection of red or white wines.
that take up to four people each with sleeping to the restaurant every day. Seating up to 50 After a satisfying meal, you might be forgiven

Superb Views and Food

bags. There are toilets and cooking facilities. guests the elegant restaurant also provides for booking a room and enjoying a good nights
The rooms have large windows revealing an evening dinners for guests and visitors. sleep before exploring the area some more.

Let Your Senses Imbibe the Spirit of Snfellsnes at Langaholt

unobstructed panorama of nature. Kast Guesthouse is a tranquil place to stay Take a walk outside and look at the glacier.
Close by, the large camp site has excellent amidst an area rich in interest. Bookings can With your left ear, youll hear the relaxing sound
facilities including electricity for campers
and caravans. Sheltered by the mountain,
its a peaceful location.
be made online. You will not be disappointed.

Kast guesthouse offers 16 double rooms and a

W hether you rent a car, ride a bike or take
the bus, spending a day in the middle
of all the sites of interest on the Snfellsnes
few and enjoy both the natural and historical
sites of the area, which are no doubt very
different from any other country youve visited!
of the surf, whilst in your right, the whispers of
waterfalls. Swirling around you are the many
varieties of birds like the arctic terns and the
restaurant that welcomes up to 50 people. Groups peninsula will leave you both refreshed and Speaking of meals, this is a restaurant different gulls. You can watch the clouds rolling
Healthy Attractions of Nature Travel the Area the Natural Way bigger than 10 people get a 15% discount. You can inspired by the beauty of the nature and the with a top chef who wants you to enjoy a over the mountain peaks while you play a round
What draws people to this area, besides With so many beautiful vistas surrounding book online or just show up. Ekkert ml! tranquility with which it refreshes your spirit. wholesome meal, not a fancy work of art but of golf or set up your tent on the campsite.
t he fa mous volca no a nd its glacier the Kast guesthouse, this land should be Kast Guesthouse ASF Langaholt is a 20-room guesthouse with you will get good-sized portions that will fill Langaholt ASF
w h ic h ju s t b e g to b e c l i mb e d a r e enjoyed the natural wayon horseback. a campsite, golf course and restaurant, with that hole left from a busy days exploring.
the ruggedly breathta k ing bird cliffs, The name Kast actually comes from the Lsudalur 356 Snfellsbr probably the best view of the Snfells mountain A number of the vegetables and spices are Ytri-Garar 356 Snfellsbr
w it h t housa nds of sea g u lls, f u lma rs, meadow behind the guesthouse where the +354 421 5252 and glacier from the beach by the campsite. grown in their own gardens and you wont +354 435 6789
k it tiwa kes a nd a rctic terns, s w irling mares go to cast their foals. Horses are a kast@kastguesthouse.is This is a great place to come for a weekend find food that comes from outside the area. langaholt@langaholt.is

around them just minutes away. For those part of the environment here and bring www.kastguesthouse.is getaway, to spend a night or two enjoying the With its proximity to the sea, you would be www.langaholt.is

interested in fishing, there are lakes just great enjoyment. Icelandic countryside, eat a delicious meal or surprised if seafood wasnt on the menu.

154 155
West Iceland

On warm days or summer evenings, you can

sit out on the veranda, surrounded by spectacular
mountains and a magnificent view of the bay.
Whenever there is a major sports event, it is
shown on the large screen. The ambience makes
meals enjoyable especially on the weekends,
when live musicians and karaoke make it an
exciting place to spend the evening.
Here, you will find home-baked cakes Snack in the Sun at Snfellsnes
and traditional Icelandic food, as well as Fjruhsi is a relaxing setting for a break in Hellnar
pizzas, hamburgers and sandwiches. Th is is
H iking around the Snfells peninsula but, on a sunny day, it is the outside seating Youll find Fjruhsi easily when youre

The Life of the Town

where we always come to eat when were in is a beautiful experience. The walk that is always fi lled, as walkers take a rest walking but if youre driving, go right down
the area because were guaranteed good food from Arnarstapi to Hellnar is especially and imbibe the beauty of the surroundings to the harbour parking spot and youll see it
Kaffi 59s meals draw diners who love delicious Icelandic meals
and warm, friendly service. spectacular, with its bird cliffs filled with whilst enjoying a delicious snack or lunch. perched on the cliffside.
ASF screeching arctic terns and gulls. In the Tour guides know the best places to stop Fjruhsi Caf ASF
Kaf 59

W hat is on your mind after a days

hiking or exploring? Food! The
mounta ins of the Snfells peninsula
Kaffi 59 is a very popular restaurant,
caf and bar on Grundarfjrurs main
street where you can get a delicious and
Grundargata 59 350 Grundarfjrur

+354 438 6446

background is the Snfells glacier peak.
Right down at the harbour at Hellnar is
Fjruhsi, probably the most picturesque
and this is one of them, so its popular. Open
from Easter to October, the little family caf
provides seafood soup, homemade bread,
Hellnar 365 Snfellsnes

+354 435 6844

offer some memorable experiences, photo f illing meal at almost any time of the kaf59@simnet.is caf I have seen, surrounded as it is by the vegetable or chicken quiche, pasta, waffles, fjoruhusid@isl.is
www.fjoruhusid.is
opportunities of nature, birdlife, outstanding day. On the weekends, it stays open late www.kaf59.is
rocky bird cliffs, right under the Snfells a range of delicious cakes and drinks of all
landscapes and more but then hunger strikes! into the night, too. glacier. The cosy caf seats two dozen inside kinds, all with friendly service.

Other souvenir candy available: Icelandic Pufin Eggs

Milk chocolate treats with soft chewy
Icelandic Northern Lights liquorice centres

Icelandic Lava Sparks Available in

all quality
Icelandic Lava Pebbles gift shops
around
Iceland

islandtreasures@gmx.com www.islandtreasures.biz +354 612 5065

Dining in the Old Town The menu, which can be viewed online,

Mvur A meal in Narfeyrarstofa is a delicious trip back in time

shows the emphasis placed on fresh, healthy
food and each selection is named, with a brief

T he small fishing town of Stykkishlmur is that royalty dined there. The current chef, explanation giving its history. It shows just
home to a restaurant with excellent food, Gunnar, received awards in Denmark for his how appetising the Icelandic food chest can

Lavaland
an extensive la carte menu and an innovative deserts and, as a chocolatier par exellence, you be in the hands of a master chef.
Fully equipped,fully furnished chef who has worked in top international may not want to leave after the main meal! Narfeyrarstofa ASF
restaurants. In addition, the ambience takes Situated next to the old church close to the
Handmade jewellery proudly made in Iceland. accommodation,located on the tip of
Melted lava from Ey jaf jallajkull glacier you back to the early days of the last century, harbour, its well placed to get the freshest
is combined w it h silver to make simple, Snfellsnes Peninsula, with magnificent Aalgata 3 340 Stykkishlmur
and its close connections to Denmark. seafood and this restaurant takes seafood to +354 438 1119
outstanding and unique jewellery. views to the sea and glacier. Narfeyrarstofa was converted into a the next level. A group of visiting chefs from narf@narf.is
Ke avkurgata 1 360 Hellissandur +354 845 1780
Nesvegur 17 350 Grundarfjrur +354 777 0611 restaurant in 2001 and quickly gained a Norway rated the restaurant as the highlight www.narfeyrarstofa.is

lavaland@lavaland.is www.lavaland.is mavur@mavur.is www.mavur.is reputation for such quality of food and service of their trip to Icelandpraise indeed.

156 157
 West Iceland

Birds in
Breiafjrur
The Mystical Bay with Marvellous Birdlife

B reia f jrur is a n expa nsive a nd

shallow bay located on the west coast
of Iceland. The bay is the largest area of
two thirds of the Icelandic White-tailed
Eagle population and the vast majority of
Great Cormorants and European Shags
The Baldur ferry stops on the island of
Flatey on its trips between Stykkishlmur
and Brjnslkur. A day can be spent on the
shallow waters and beaches in the country, nest by the bay. By far the worlds largest island between ferry stops or a longer period if
and rich wildlife can be found both above Razorbill colony is on the Ltrabjarg bird preferred. The bird life on Flatey is special and
and below its surface. The area has greater cliff s, and about one third of the Common diverse and well worth paying attention to as
tides and tidal currents than elsewhere Eider population is in Breiafjrur. The many birds on the island are unusually tame.
in Iceland, and it is believed that about a largest Glaucous Gull breeding grounds in Prominent along the coast of Flatey are the jet
quarter of the countrys beaches are located Iceland are in Breiafjrur, and the bay Black Guillemots sporting white wing patches,
in Breiafjrur. The bay has more diverse is also home to large colonies of Northern red legs and the inside of their mouth is bright
benthic species than have been detected Fulmars, Black-legged Kittiwakes, and Arctic red. Their main source of food is butterfish
elsewhere in the country. While folk belief Terns. In addition, a large part of the world which they hunt in the seaweed along the
holds that the islands in Breiafjrur populations of Brent Geese, Red Knots and shore. Puffins are quite common under
are infinite, estimates put the number at Ruddy Turnstones pass through the beaches Lundaberg cliff and on the islands around
approximately 2,500. Breiafjrur was of Breiafjrur in the spring and autumn. Flatey. Other prominent sea birds are Shags,
once a great source of food and numerous The White-tailed Eagle is known as the Fulmars, Kittiwakes, and Eiders. The Snow
Black Guillemot on Flatey Island islands were inhabited. The islands are now king of Icelandic birds. This majestic bird of Bunting sings its wistful song from rooftops
Brnnichs Guillemots at Snfellsnes
mostly deserted, with only two which are prey was almost extinct in Iceland in 1960, but or rocky outcrops. The Red-necked Phalarope
inhabited year roundbut many houses are BirdLife Iceland was able to save the population swoops and swirls on most ponds and pools
maintained and used as summer dwellings. with its fight against narrow-mindedness and but can also be seen at sea, while its cousin, the
Th e birdlife in Breiafj rur is unique ignorant views. When the population was at its Red Phalarope, may also appear on the beach.
and one of the most important in Iceland lowest, it managed to prevail in Breiafjrur, Redshanks call from fence posts, Common
Puffin with food and the whole of the North Atlantic. which was and still is its main habitat in Snipes drum overhead, and Arctic Terns dive
Breiafjrur is protected according to Iceland. Currently, the White-tailed Eagle at unwelcome visitors on the nesting grounds.
law, in addition to being identifi ed as an mostly nests on islands and islets and on low O ne c a n not d i s c u s s t he bi rd s of
Important Bird Area (IBA) by BirdLife peninsulas and cliff edges, but during the Breiaf jrur without mentioning the
A playful pair of Red-necked Phalaropes A pair of Black-legged Kittiwakes with their chick A Common Eider drake on display International. The outpost of Breiafjrur population slump, it nested quite a lot on Ltrabjarg bird cliffs, even though it is
to the north and west is Ltrabjarg, the steep, unscalable mountainsides. The eagle not within the area covered by laws on
largest bird cliff in the North Atlantic. is wholly protected and its nest may not be the protection of Breiafjrur and even
The microcosm is characterised by birds approached unless permitted by the Ministry though it is a diff erent IBA. Ltrabjarg is
which are wholly dependent on marine life, for the Environment. The Sferir company, the largest bird cliff in the North Atlantic,
and many of them nest in large colonies. which sails from the town of Stykkishlmur, and it is home to hundreds of thousands of

Images by Jhann li Hilmarsson

Furthermore, the beaches in Breiafjrur are has a permit to sail near an eagles nest and sea birds: Fulmars, Kittiwakes, Razorbills,
an important stop for migratory birds on their show tourists this magnificent bird. C o m m o n G u i l l e m o t s , B r n n i c h s
way to and from wintering grounds east of the The Atlantic Puffin is one of the most Guillemots, and Puffi ns. Bjargtangar is the
Atlantic and breeding grounds in Greenland common birds which nest in Breiafjrur, best place in the world for photographing
A White-tailed Eagle in flight in Breiafjrur A male Snow Bunting on Flatey Island Breiafjrur is the domain of the Glaucous Gull and the Arctic Islands of Canada. The reason nesting in tight colonies on grassy islands Puffi ns; in the evenings, they are so tame
for this rich bird life is an abundance of food, which are plentiful in the bay. It dives for fish that you can almost touch them, and
which is based on an interplay of landscape, and, in late summer, it is often seen in flight nowhere else in the world can you take
European Shag in Breiafjrur significant tides, and the fertility of the sea. carrying sand eels for its young. The Puffin is their portraits using a wide-angle lens!
As an example of the importance of very popular with tourists and Breiafjrur
Happy birdwatching! JH
Breiafjrur to birds, one can mention that is a good spot for viewing it.

158 159
West Iceland

Iceland to Yourself
Autumn in Grundarfjrur reveals a different world

H tel Framnes sits right on the bay

in Grundarfj rur, enjoying a clear
the coastline and the mountains, lakes and
waterfalls behind the village, while the bay Splendid views right from the doorstep.

Snfellsnes Peninsula
view over the waters of Breiafjrur, with itself is popular for fishing as well as being a
its myriad islands. Jutting out into the bay photographers hot spot. Glacier trips and horse A Passage to the Centre of the Earth

Htel Framnes Makes a Comfortable Base to Explore the Area

to the left rises the most photographed riding are both inspiring experiences here and The Snfellsjkull glacier is thought by many
mountain in Iceland, Mt. Kirkjufell. all the main attractions on the peninsula can to be shrouded in mystique, which has been the
Th e hotel was built to be a fi shermans
hostel but, following extensive renovation,
it is now popular for its comfort, service
be easily reached from Grundarfjrur.

Colours and Comfort

T he Snfellsnes peninsula is home to
some of Icelands most remarkable
n a t u r a l a nd h i s tor ic a l phe nome n a .
mountain range, Mt. Kirkjufell and splendid
ocean views. Youll find most services available
in Grundarfjrur, including a grocery store
inspiration for artists for hundreds of years. The
most famous is undoubtedly Jules Verne who,
in his book from 1864, A Journey to the Centre
and warm friendliness. As August draws to a close, it is the time for Situated in the middle of the peninsula, and a swimming pool. of the Earth, wrote about a passage leading to
the independent traveller who likes to enjoy Htel Framnes is the perfect place to set The management and staff are known for the centre of the earth found on Snfellsjkull.
An Ever-Changing Landscape the serenity of the mountains. Colours begin up base in a tranquil and family-friendly their friendly and helpful demeanour. They Snfellsnes also provided the setting
Grundarfjrur is particularly easy to get to to changein both the landscape and the environment while you visit the peninsulas are, of course, experts on the area and can for one of the most important Icelandic
from Reykjavk, being just a two-hour drive sky, with spectacular sunsets on a regular Lki Tours many attractions. Snfellsjkull Glacier is, give you invaluable advice for your travels. sagas, Laxdla saga, which tells the tale of
through amazing countryside. It is the central basis. As the evenings cool, the northern Sa iling in the mystica l bay aboard a of course, the most famous but is far from For example, it is not much fun to go Gurn svfursdttir and her profound
of the three fishing villages on the northern lights begin to appear, dancing across the traditional oak fi shing boat holds a magic the only attraction Snfellsnes peninsula hiking in ferocious winds, so be sure to ask and complicated marriage problems, the
coast of the Snfellsnes peninsula. Hikers love night skies. Travellers can enjoy them from all of its own. Sea angling from the boat is has to offer. You can soak in the areas rich for help in choosing the best day for each cause of much bloodshed.
the comfort of the hot tub, which has a screen fun for any age and the catch can be a good history and folklore, visit its peaceful fishing activity, as the weather in Iceland can change An ancient trail in the Berserker lava
protecting them from any sea breezes without size. Islands like Melrakkaey are home to villages, go horseback riding, sea angling, drastically within a few hours. field provides the material for an interesting
interrupting the view. A massage chair and thousands of puffins and different sea birds bird watching or explore some of adjacent When planning your day, the staff will folk legend. It tells the tale of two Swedish
sauna provide soothing for sore muscles. and, out in the deeper waters, the dolphins, Breiafjrur bays hundreds of islands. help you with information, opening hours, berserker slaves who were killed by their owner
It is little wonder that this 29-room hotel, porpoises and whales swim. Last year, the reservations and whatever else you may need. while clearing a trail through the lava field.
with a 60-seat dining room and free wireless tours had 100% success in seeing whales. Just Like Home Obviously a young maiden was involved in
Internet has won the approbation of visitors as The powerful orca or killer whales are most Htel Framnes is an old fishermans hostel, the Berserkjagata tale somehow.
TripAdvisors Certificate of Excellence attests. often seen in the first months of the year and which has been totally transformed into a
After a busy day of activities you can
are a truly amazing sight. They follow the cosy and family-friendly hotel. There are
unwind in Htel Framnes hot tub and
herring that come into the fjord, providing a 29 comfortable rooms, each with a private
sauna. The hotel restaurant offers
once-in-a-lifetime experience. bathroom, wireless Internet and television.
Group bookings are accepted in September Families can fi nd rooms accommodating gourmet seafood as its speciality and
and October. Bookings can be made for the up to six people and childrens beds can takes great pride in offering fresh fish
daily trips at Htel Framnes. be arranged. After a busy day of activities every day caught by local fishermen.
Lki Tours ASF you can unwind in Htel Framnes hot Htel Framnes
tub and sauna. The hotel restaurant off ers
Nesvegiur 6 350 Grundarfjrur gourmet seafood as its speciality and takes Nesvegur 6 350 Grundarfjrur

+354 438 6893 great pride in off ering fresh fi sh every day +354 438 6893
framnes@hotelframnes.is caught by local fi shermen. framnes@hotelframnes.is
www.lakitours.com The hotel is located in Grundarfjrur www.hotelframnes.is

village, surrounded by the Hells Gate Htel Framnes.

160 161
West Iceland

Experience a Fantasy World

scallops and sea urchins. You are given a knife
and invited to dine. The funny thing is: its

A Trip into Breiafjrur Bay with SeaTours Takes You to Another World this is just the appetiser. Theres a restaurant
so delicious. For those on the Gourmet Tour,

W hether youre on a student on a school Eirksey, where Eric the Red hid before sailing below deck, which offers a beautiful view of
trip or a seasoned professional, to Greenland after being banished from Iceland. the romantically tranquil surroundings while
making the choice to visit Iceland is a enjoying a lunch or dinner.
choice to be different and to stand out from Beautiful Birdlife
the crowd, to join the people for whom On many of the islands, safe from harm, Specially for Schools
challenges are a way of life. In Iceland you thousands of birds nest and raise their SeaTours provides a highlight for school
can live a fantasy world thats real. young. Not just the colourful puffin but t r ip s to Ic e l a nd w it h t he i r Un iqu e
Ta k e , f o r e x a m p l e , t h e m y s t i c a l whole flocks of different species that you can Adventure Tour. Th is is the best way to
Breiafj rur Bay. It could fi t right into get up close to. SeaTours special catamaran get an education: enjoy yourself so much
Lord of the Ringsand yet, you can be gets within feet of the islands, providing that you learn without even realising it.
there. Actually experiencing it is so much astonishing photo opportunities. Th e captain can emphasise subjects like
more thrilling than watching it as a couch geology, history or marine biology while
potato. Not only that, but there are things Sushi Straight from the Sea t he students enjoy t he experience of
to try that would make Frodo jealous. You cannot get fresher than this: a net is these subjects brought to life. The tour
drawn up from the sea bed, laden with fresh culminates with the sea plough drawing
Stunning Scenery up shellf ish and sea creatures and the
Sailing out into the bay is an experience in itself. students are challenged to eat some. Then
No-one knows quite how many islands there we see who is really brave!
are, though some estimates say about 3,000. ASF
Seatours
Many are quite sizeable, such as Grmsey (one of
several by that name), with its incredible basalt Smijustgur 3 340 Stykkishlmi
rock formations; Gods bookshelf on another +354 438 1450
island is also made of basalt rockwith lines seatours@seatours.is

cut into them, making them look like stacks www.seaferdir.is

of booksthough no-one knows why; and

162
 Activities in the area
In Hvtidalur, you can go horse riding
t h r ou g h t he c ou nt r y s i d e . Cy c l i n g ,
especially around the coastline is much
enjoyed. There are beautiful salmon fi shing
rivers. Bird watching and photography are

I Discovered America First

increasingly popular, especially with a
number of eagles adding to the many species

The Small Community of Bardalur has a Rich Heritage

and the natural beauty of the area.

W est Iceland is filled with history and

three of it most famous characters
lived around the small village of Bardalur
Erik the Red settled in Greenland
Leif s father, the fiery Erik the Redwas
fiery not only in hair but in temperament,
on the spectacular road to the Westfjords. too. Arguments with his neighbours got
violent and led to his exile, first from
Icelands famous pioneer Norway, then from his home just outside

Bardalur As you enter the village, an information sign

points to the left, down to a clean, grey building
by the shore. Leifsb houses an impressive
display of pictures, ancient manuscripts, models
Bardalur and fi nally, from the island of
xney. His farm has been reconstructed in
Haukadalur and gives a fascinating insight
into his life before he became the first
and more, detailing the exploits surrounding permanent European settler in Greenland.
the discovery of America centuries before
Columbus. Historians now generally accept The Queen lived here Camping and Accommodation
that this courageous Viking pioneer was the Queen Auur the Deepminded, daughter The campsite received a 5-star accolade
first to not only discover, but found settlements of a Celtic king, after building her own from the DV newspaper, who hailed it
in the New World such as the one in LAnse- ship in secret in Scotland, established a as the best campsite in Iceland. Bjarg
aux-Meadows in Newfoundland with 2,400 Christian community in the area. She was Guesthouse is in the centre of the village
recently discovered Viking objects. well-known for her deep connection with and, a little farther north, urranes, a
In 2000, as further confirmation, an God and practice of her faith. She built countr y guesthouse set in a beautiful
accurate reconstruction of a Viking longship, up a centre of learning in a time of deep va l le y bet ween hig h mou nt a ins, c a n
the slendingur, sailed to New York, retracing ignorance and superstition and influenced r e c e i v e u p t o 3 0 g u e s t s g r e a t f or
Leif Eirikssons voyage across the Atlantic. future generations with her example. individual or group get-aways.
Still an area for pioneers, Erpsstair farm
produces its own ice cream, cheese, skyr
and other dairy products. Th e Handverk
craft shop is well worth a visit as it sells
beautiful woollen sweaters and many other
items made in the area at good prices.
Dalabygg ASF

Mibraut 11 370 Bardalur

+354 430 4700

dalir@dalir.is
www.dalir.is

165
 Westfjords Award-Winning Westfjords - The most famous unknown place in Iceland

I
t was for good reasons that the Lonely Planet guide
put this area in its list of the top 10 regions of the world
Map lafur Valsson
to visit in 2011 and it won a European Destination of
Excellence (EDEN) award.
A very sparsely populated region of Iceland, it is home
to the Arctic fox, a dizzying variety of birdlife and a nature
that is simply breathtaking. With precipitous cliffs that
plunge almost vertically to the deep blue seas below, its
multitude of beautiful fjords, its hot springs, pure streams
and waterfalls, its a place for the nature-lover to be awed
by its silence and tranquility, pierced only by the birds.
Although a region easy to get to, once there, the
isolation and untouched beauty is best explored by hiking,
horse riding or kayaking. After a day enjoying this nature,
it is always nice to relax in the hot springs, well known
for their healing properties, dine in one of the numerous
restaurants or cafs or to go fishing under the midnight
sun or Northern Lights. The tiny, picturesque villages
dotted around the fjords and the main town of safjrur
welcome visitors with campsites, guesthouses and hotels.
There is much history here, too, worth investigating. Cottongrass in Drafjrur
Photos; courtesy of the Westfjords Marketing Office.

166 167
A horsetrip at rlygshfn in Patreksfjrur An old rusty hulk at Djpavk

Three young Eider Ducks snug and warm Drying fish heads The lighthouse in Flatey
 At Reykjafjrur area

Houses in Flatey Icelandic sheep

One with nature in Hlmavk Hornbjarg, the northwest corner of the Westfjords
 Grund

Mystic History
of Reykhlahreppur and
in the islands of Breiafjrur Bay. Perhaps

Reykhlahreppur: Overlooking Breiafjrur from the Westfjords

one of the most impressive bird-sighting
opportunities in the area is the majestic and

T here are still hidden pearls to be found Th roughout history Reykhlar has been elusive whitetailed eagle (haliaeetus albicilla),
in Iceland which have not been over- the residence of many of Icelands most that make their nests in the area and can even
saturated with tourism. One of these is prominent chieftains and is frequently be seen flying over Reykhlar.
Reykhlahreppur County on the southern mentioned in the Icelandic sagas. Reminders
coast of the Westfjords peninsula, asw relatively of that time are plentiful including a boat Uncountable Islands
small and peaceful community, but with museum which has a large collection of the The islands of Breiafjrur Bay are so
natural phenomena and a landscape that is as boats which were used in Breiafjrur Bay. many that some people say that they are
grand as it gets. Over a dozen fjords overlook The oldest summer hotel in Iceland, Htel uncountable, but ca rtographers have
the island-dotted mystical Breiafjrur Bay Bjarkalundur, just outside Reykhlar, can estimated that there are around 3.000
with its beautiful scenery, historical and poetic provide you with quality accommodation, islands in the fjord, most of which belong to
references and exceptionally vivid birdlife. good dining and picturesque views. Reykhlahreppur County. You can arrange
Looking at a map, you might think it for an island cruise with Eyjasigling at
could only be reached by helicopter or Birdwatchers Paradise Reykhlar, taking you to inhabited and to
special transportation, but the truth is that Birdwatchers are in for a treat as a wide variety islands uninhabited except for the plethora
it is just a two and a half hour drive from of species make their nests on both the coastline of birds which make their homes there.
Reykjavk all on an asphalt road.

A Service Centre with a History

The village of Reykhlar is the centre of
Reykhlahreppur County and provides a
full range of services for visitors, including a
campsite, stores, museums, a unique seaweed
spa at Sjvarsmijan and a geothermally
heated swimming pool named after one of
Icelands greatest heroes Grettir the Strong.

Reykhlar

The second largest island in Breiafjrur

is called Flatey Island and was once one of
the most important cultural sites in Iceland.
Perhaps nowhere else in Iceland has the
turn-of-the-century atmosphere been better
preserved and walking around Flatey in the
summertime youll almost think youre back
in the year 1900. There youll find reminders
of past times including a monastery built in
1172 and Icelands first library built in 1864.
Reykhlahreppur VAG

Reykhlar 380 Reykhlahreppur

+354 434 7880

skrifstofa@reykholar.is
www.reykholar.is

173
Westfjords

The Western Fjords are a world apart, as

reflected in the folk tale of the trolls who tried
to dig this mountainous peninsula away from
the mainland to establish a troll colony, free of
men and their meddling. The landscape is a
mixture of deep narrow fjords, high mountains

Icelands Oldest Country Hotel

and luscious green plants. Tall cliffs, teeming
with birdlife rise sharply from the deep blue sea.

Htel Bjarkalundur is at the entrance to the Westfjords

Enjoy a respite at Bjarkalundur before

Magnificent Westfjords
and after experiencing the amazing charm

U n d e r t h e m a j e s t i c Va a l f j l l A World Apart of the Westfjords and their people. You will

mountains, with its two distinctive Bjarkalundur is conveniently located to stop fi nd it just off Road 60.
tops of volca nic ba sa lt plugs, nestles for a breather before entering Icelands most Htel Bjarkalundur SS Discover the West with West Tours
West Tours offers a variety of popular
tours to Hornstrandir, including but
not limited to:
Bjarkalundur, the oldest country hotel in remote region, the Westfjords. The hotel has,
Iceland. Surrounded by an ancient birch throughout its history, welcomed guests and
wood, the hotels immediate environment made them comfortable. In the past, dances
Bjarkalundur 380 Reykhlahreppur

+354 434 7762

T he Lonely Planet guide book has rated
the Westfjords of Iceland as one of
the Top 10 places to visit in 2011. The top
The place is so remote that the only way to
get there is by boat. There are no roads, no
airstrips, no electricity and not even sheep
History at Hesteyri - a leisurely tour
4 - 5 hours long
is friendly and welcoming. Th is historic and were held during the summer months and bjarkalundur@bjarkalundur.is regions list means getting out the hiking grazing on the hillsides. Milla, managing
popular resting spot has served Icelanders still the Midsummer Night bonfire is an www.bjarkalundur.is
boots and camping equipment; many of director of West Tours, tells me that the last Hiking in Hornstrandir - a moderate
and foreign guests for sixty-five years. event frequented by locals and travellers alike. these places are tourist-free and dont have of the areas residents all packed up and left hike, 12 hours
luxury hotels. But they do offer pure natural with only their clothes and a few belongings
experiences with incredible wildlife, regional in tow. Some of those homes are preserved Backpacking in Hornstrandir (a more
food and possibly a more authentic adventure, today, intact, as they were when the occupants strenuous hike - choose a 4-day or
says the Lonely Planet Guide to Iceland. suddenly left in 1952. One such house is the 6-day hike)
Indeed, the region is Icelands most Doctors House in Hesteyri, which today
sparsely populated area. The main service serves as a cafe, guesthouse and memorial The King and Queen of Cliffs
town of safjrur, in contrast to the nature to the last residents of the region. Now a The name says it all! Once youve seen these
that surrounds it, has been described as a protected nature reserve, Hornstrandir is a cliffs you might be spoiled for life!
friendly mini-metropolis, and is surprisingly true wilderness where flora and fauna have This 12-hour tour takes in all the grandeur
cosmopolitan. It is here in safjrur that been allowed to f lourish undisturbed by of these magnificent cliffs at Hornvk at the
you will fi nd West Tours. Operating since human civilization for almost 60 years. very tip of Hornstrandir. Millions of birds
1993, West Tours prides itself on being descend upon these cliffs every summer,
one of the most friendly and creative tour making it the one of the biggest bird cliff s

Sailing Breiafjrur Bay

agencies and operators in the country. in the whole of Europe. A boat will take you
around the cliffs and then you will be able to

Eyjasigling takes tours, photography and birdwatching to sea

will feel as if time stood still a century ago, The hauntingly beautiful take an exhilarating walk to the top.
their houses restored to original condition. landscape of Hornstandir
E yjasigling or Island Cruises is very
aptly named as they sail Breiafjrur
Bay with its innumerable islands, many
takes enthusiasts out twice a day at 10:30 and
4pm on a trip guaranteed to awe.
Enjoying the wildlife in its natural
The farmers still live a simple self-
sufficient lifestyle, collecting eider down,
birds eggs, fishing and seal hunting.
Its just a hop, skip and a jump to the
Westfjords from Reykjavk.
The 40 minute fl ight will get you on your
teeming with birdlife. The bay itself is environment is a fulfi lling experience and, There is a rich history going back to the way, making day tours an excellent and
home to seals, dolphins and the occasional with the guide, Bjrn Samuelsson, bringing Settlement days of the 900s AD, which viable option wh en planning your vacation
whales, presenting opportunities to the the bays history to life and taking you to Bjrn tells his guests as they sail. in the Westfjords with West Tours.
wildlife photographer and a wonderful the best spots to see the birds, seals and Eyjasigling ASF West Tours VAG
experience for anyone interested in seeing dolphins, its one of those truly defining
these creatures close-up. moments in a holiday. Reykhlar 380 Reykhlahreppur Aalstrti 7 400 safjrur
Sailing from Staurs harbour, less than +354 849 6748 +354 456 5111
a dozen kilometres from the village of Sail to Flatey or Skleyjar eyjasigling@eyjasigling.is westtours@westtours.is
Reykhlar on the southern Westfjords, Bjrn also takes you to Flatey or Skleyjar, the www.eyjasigling.is www.westtours.is

Eyjasiglings 19-passenger boat, the Sula, only islands inhabited year-round. Here, you

174 175
 Sjldur

Breathtaking Landscapes and Museums of Fun

The Virtually Untouched Nature of Vesturbygg is a Treat for Every Visitor
V esturbygg, the southern part of the
Westfjords is, without doubt, one
of the most spectacular areas in Iceland.
Patreksfjrur is an old fishing town with
quite an historyand a Pirates Museum. A
brand new three star hotel with a restaurant
along the vast beach. Further north from
Breiavk, across the moors is Hnuvk,
where the seabird life can be viewed close up.
With breathtaking, tranquil fjords and opens in May 2013, adding to various On the way back towards Patreksfjrur is
a mountain road along Barastrnd, the accommodation possibilities available, an excellent museum at Hnjtur, specialising

Patreksfjrur south coast, the area provides a view over

Breiafjrur and its countless islands.
The journey starts at Reykhlar where the
Icelandic eagle resides, a lovely village with
both hotels and hostels. Patreksfjrur is
a wonderful town to observe fishermen
working and have guided tours of the fi sh
factories and buy the freshest fish available.
in the life of seafarers and fishermen, telling
stories of disasters and rescues and their
aff ect on both families and communities.
The fi lm, Rescue at Ltrabjarg is shown in
a number of galleries, museums and tours English and German.
around the Breiafjrur islands. A real treat The Largest Coastal Cliffs
is the wholesome seaweed bathing pool, an Ltrabjarg is the westernmost point in Of Monsters and Music
excellent way to relax and nourish your skin Icelandand indeed Europe. It is 441 Bldudalur by Arnarfjrur is another
before driving west along Barastrnd. metres high and spans 14 kilometres, village full of surprises with a Monster
making it the islands largest coastal cliff Museum and a Music Museum. Nowhere
Beach On Fire with fabulously rich bird-life and a hiking in Iceland have there been as many sea
Be sure to stop by at Htel Flkalundur trail along most of the steep cliff top. Created monster sightings as in Arnarfjrur. The
and take a walk up to the most beautiful by eruptions and sculpted by the raging sea, Music Museum is privately owned. Just
camping site in Iceland with a view over Ltrabjarg has been used for farming since knock on the door and the owner will gladly
Vatnsf jrur, where the ferry crossing the arrival of the first settlers in the area. show his collection. A short distance from
Breia f jrur dock s. On your way to There are several places to stay nearby. Nice Bldudalur, in Selrdalur, is an exceptional
Pat rek sf jru r i s R aui s a ndu r (R e d and quiet and just a short distance away is outdoor museum created by the builder and
Beach), where the sand is indeed red, Htel Ltrabjarg. Hotel Breiavk is a great sculptor, Samel Jnsson.
giving the illusion of being on fi re. place for watching the sunset and strolling Travelling north, visit the Dynjandi
waterfall, considered one of the most beautiful
waterfalls in Iceland. It is actually six waterfalls
in one and is called, The Diamond.
Vesturbygg SS

Aalstrti 63 450 Patreksfjrur

+354 450 2300

vesturbyggd@vesturbyggd.is
www.vesturbyggd.is

177
Westfjords

Images by Karl Eggertsson

A Travellers Haven
Peace with Nature and Birds Rageri is both a hotel and hostel
Although it can handle up to 40 guests,
owners Karl and Sigrur like to maintain

Htel Ltrabjarg brings back the simple joys of life

a close, homely atmosphere and therefore
do not take groups during the high season. S et on the hillside with a beautiful view
of the bay, Htel Rageri has just
beds.The linen has been specially made by
Icelandic designer, Scintilla. The attractive
Wander the Westfjords
Open all year, its a good place to base from, as

O n E u r op e s w e s t e r n m o s t t ip, studded with spectacular vistas, ending in Th is has made it popular with individuals
Htel Ltrabjarg is set amidst a a bay that, with its curved white sand beach who appreciate its simple style, delicious
photographers and birdwatchers paradise and clear blue waters looks as if it belongs in meals and tranquil surroundings, with their
re-opened after a complete renovation. The
8 rooms are all clean and fresh, with free
wi-fi throughout.
designs can be purchased at the hotel.
There is comfortable accommodation
downstairs for those with sleeping bags seeking
you can easily reach the famous Ltrabjarg bird
cliffs, the red sand beaches at Rauasandur, the
beautiful Dynjandi falls and the many other
at the furthermost point of the Westfjords. a travel brochure for the Caribbean. constantly changing colours. The hotel is located in the middle of an economic place to stay. sights on this west part of the Westfjords.
Its a rugged countryside here, with sheer The hotel has a commanding view of the Htel Ltrabjarg ASF Patreksfjrur which is the western-most Htel Rageri ASF
cliffs rising high above the fjords. Although fjord, where whales can sometimes be seen, and village in Europe. Nestled in a large fjord Whale Watching Without a Boat
the road is paved from the ferry terminal to of the bay and valley below, where sheep graze Fagrihvammur 451 Patreksfjrur under the mountains, it is well-protected. The large windows look out onto the fjord Aalstrti 31 450 Patreksfjrur
Patreksfjrur, the nearest town, from the peacefully. Its an almost idyllic situation during +354 456 1500 where, in recent years, whales have often +354 456 0181
end of the fjord, a gravel road takes you to the summer months, when it is open from 15th info@latrabjarg.com Accommodation been seen jumping clear out of the water stay@radagerdi.com

the beaches of Rauasandur, the bird cliff s May to 20th September. It was originally built www.latrabjarg.com
The upstairs is devoted to the dining room, and swimming close to shore. The view of www.radagerdi.com

of Ltrabjarg and the hotel. The route is as a boarding school for local children. Gubjrg Fortune Sigurardttir
living room and bedrooms with made-up the fjord is truly spectacular.

travels on his boat, on the mountainside

wherever the food is to be cooked!
Perhaps you would rather eat in the comfort
of his dining roomonly youll find probably
the most innovative dining table youve seen. their culinary expertise or healthy diet

Pirates in Patreksfjrur
Shaped in a U, it has a broad channel in the and their hard drinking and fighting is

Dine with the Vikings

centre filled with water, with shells on the legendary. The Pirate School is changing all

Pirates welcome at the Pirate House

bottom! Food is shipped to the diners in glass that for this new generation as, in this case,
Viking boats, sailed down the channel. No, this it is good food and drinknot a typical
Taking the Westfjords with a tasteful touch
I
is no ordinary dining room, for here, you are
ts an area that can be cha lleng ing This is what retired sea captain, Jn dining in an art gallery of works by different
to reach but those who take up the rarson has dreamed up. Whether you artists, which are available to purchase.
D own by the shore, an old workshop the family where the children learn useful pirates fare, eaten at long wooden tables.
ha s been ta ken over by pirates, nautical training, dressed up to take their
teaching children the pirates life. Th is is place in the crew.
Its just getting startedbut ye landlubbers
watch out; tharll be pirates about!
challenge win the rewards of some of the take his sea angling tour, catch and cook ASF the way to learn! The children watch, learn The more experienced pirates make The Pirate House ASF
EagleFjord
countrys most thrilling land scapes, spec- your own fish (or take them with you, to eat and put into practice. learning fun and interesting. Who knows?
tacular views, fascinating legends and later), go out in his boat to watch for whales Dalbraut 1, 465 Bldudalur The foundation laid at such a young age Vatneyri 450 Patreksfjrur
mystifying monsters. in the fjords or any of his equally innovative +354 894 1684 A School for Scoundrels could lead to a seafaring life in the future +354 456 1133
EagleFjord travel service provides a tours, prepare for a day to remember. jon@bildudalur.is Whether its making knots, navigating though, one hopes it will be a legal one! alda@sjoraeningjahusid.is

comprehensive menu of tours to take in all tastes You may have a little barbecue at home www.bildudalur.is by the stars, choosing a sailing route or What would a pirate hall be without food www.sjoraeningjahusid.is

and top it off with terrific culinary possibilities. but Jns is about 5 metres longand it what to eat, this is a pirate school for all and drink? Pirates were never known for

178 179
Westfjords

Hrafnseyri revolutionary fervour was sweeping the

western world. Independence movements
i n G e r m a n y, Fr a n c e a n d t h e U S A
Jn was able to bring a peaceful transition
to self-rule at a time when most other
E u r o p e a n c ou nt r ie s w e r e s u f f e r i n g
Jn Sigurssons legacy
is very relevant in a modern world. The
Viking chieftain, Hrafn Sveinbjarnasons
A farm that changed a nation, a museum for the future provided inspiration to the students in violently turbulent revolutions, in which was willing to brave many perils to travel
Copenhagen. Jn sought self-rule for m a ny we re tor t u re d , k i l le d or through different countries, listening
Iceland under the Danish crown. maimed in the battle for change. to ne w idea s, experiencing d if ferent
Th rough his annual writings, A lt houg h it wa snt u nt i l cultures and to bring the best to help
he kept his suppor ters in 1944 that Iceland became his countrymen. If one remote farm can
Iceland informed. tota lly independent, produce two such leaders, there must be
In 1851, a new Danish the foundation for something very valuable to learn from it!
govern ment sou g ht to independence and national Visitors today can stay in a variet y
annex Iceland, making it identit y wa s la id by Jn of accommodations in the nearby town
merely another district of Sigursson. The museum of ingeyri. The gravel road over the
Denmark. The Aling (the at Hrafnseyri is a testament mounta in is pa ssable from Spring to
Icelandic parliament), which to his life and legacy, giving Autumn. Refreshments are provided in
had become an advisory body a clear insight into his early the replica turf housedelicious home-
on Icelandic matters, under Jns years, through the chapel and made cakes, bread, waffles and jam, soup
leadership boldly resisted these the replicas of the farm buildings. or coffee that make it the most popular
attempts. Despite Danish warships and The museum was renovated in time caf in the area! Th is special experience is
military presence in the harbour, force
was not used and a stalemate existed for
a decade, during which Jn continued to
argue so successfully that it became accepted

A sm a l l, ver y remote f a r m, on a
mountainside almost at the end of the
world; the home of two men, separated by
On the 17th June 2011, Iceland celebrated
the 200 th birthday of their most famous
freedom fighter, who fought with words and
Both the remoteness and peace of the fjord
provide a good opportunity for anyone to
contemplate their lives and roles.
fact that Iceland should rule itself. It was just
a matter of how much money the Danish
government would pay. A committee was
six centuries. A Viking chieftain in the late wisdom, as opposed to the guns and bullets In 1829, when Jn Sigursson was 18 set up in Denmark, on which Jn served.
12th century and a young scholar who favoured by most governments and years old, he left the farm, fi rst moving to He delivered his own report, however,
was later to become known as revolutionaries alike. In 1944, Reykjavik before moving to Copenhagen demanding five times as much as the Danish
the Father of the Nation. Jns birthday was chosen as to become a student in 1833. An upright committee was considering, claiming
Hrafn Sveinbjarnason the birthday of Iceland as and forthright man, he had the ca lm reparations for damage done in the past.
was a Viking leader who a nation, in recognition authorit y of a leader. He wa s able to His motive was apparently to buy time,
travelled to England, of the key role he played c onv e r s e w it h k i n g a nd c om mone r as Iceland was not ready to stand on its
France and Italy, studying in bringing its freedom alikea trait that won him much respect own either economically or politically
to become a physician in and independence from a nd suppor t a s he a rg ued, u sing his and he wanted it be understood that the
Salerno. He returned to foreign rule, becoming knowledge of the historical archives as his money was given as a right, not a gift.
become a popular leader a nation in its own right. platform, to justify his claim for Icelandic T h rou g h h i s w i s dom, d iplom a c y, for the June 2011 celebrations with a augmented by other locally produced items,
in the Westfjords, only It is celebrated each year independence. This was a time when eloquent argument and Godly conviction, dramatic new presentation designed by along with souvenirs that will provide a
to be assassinated by one as Iceland s Nationa l Basalt architects, who designed the Blue constant reminder of this farm for heroes!
of those he had helped. He Day. On the 17t h June Lagoons new structures. A unique feature of the farm is its old
lived on the farm in Eyri, to 2011, the President of Iceland The museum uses its facilities to continue chapel, which is fast becoming a hot
which he gave his name. visited Hra fnseyri to open to educate and provide a unique setting for favourite for couples wanting to get married
Si x centuries later, from t his the celebrations marking, not only conferences and courses run in cooperation in a very special location. It is also the
same little farm, came a young man, the Jn Sigurssons birth but the rebirth and with University Centre of Westf jords, venue for the conferences and courses held
son of a pastor, who was to change the reopening of the museum dedicated to his Universit y of Ic ela nd, Universit y of there during summer months, turning the
destiny of Iceland. Hrafnseyri has become memory on the same spot where he was born. A kureyri and the National Gallery of museum into a forward-thinking university,
synonymous with Jn Sigursson, the Why would anyone want to live in such an Iceland. Visiting lecturers from Denmark, building on the educational foundation that
man who, without a shot being fi red or a inhospitable spot? The road linking it with USA and U K have taught innovative led to both its former famous inhabitants
man being killed, brought Iceland from the rest of the Westfjord towns in the north courses such as the 2009 Conference on leaving such a mark on the countrys history.
servitude to the Danish crown to internal is difficult and often impassable in winter. National Identity in a Globalised World. Interested couples, students and course
self-rule with a rekindled self-respect. The rest of the year off ers an answer. It is Provocative questions are asked with providers should contact the museums curator,
Today, the farm is a museum, a testament located on the north slopes of Arnarfjrur, a view to stimulate debate and argument Valdimar J. Halldrsson. Tel. +354 845 5518.
to the man who brought freedom to his surrounded by scenes of great natural in order to provide a platform for change Hrafnseyri
nation. However, this is no dead memorial beauty, including Icelands most beautiful based on discussion rather than violence
but rather a living extension of the lives of waterfall, the 100 metre high Dynjandi whilst addressing questions that have no Hrafnseyri 471 ingeyri
both these great men, each a hero in his (Thunderer), often also called The Brides easy answers. For example, What place +354 456 8260
time, taking their work forward in new Veil. Hiking trails abound in the almost- do national heroes have in a cosmopolitan hrafnseyri@hrafnseyri.is

ways whilst enshrining the values and untouched landscape of mountains, fjords, world? What is the place of National www.hrafnseyri.is

achievements they made. valleys and cliffs where wildlife is plentiful. Identity in a Multi-Cultural Society?

180 181
 North by Northwest with its rich fi shing grounds at the mouth
of safjarardjp. Still today, her heritage
Bolungarvk has a lot to offer from shoreline to mountain tops is well and thriving. Opposite the village

T he coastal village of Bolungar vk

(pop. 900) is located at the edge of
safjarardjp, making it the most north-
in the waters far below. Indeed, when the
weather is nice, a midnight picnic is quite a
treat on top of Bolafjall.
is the port of svr, where there is now a
maritime museum and an old fi shermens
hut from the Settlement Era has been
erly village of the West fj ords. Th e village Bolungarvk has been a fi shing port ever restored to its original look.
is surrounded by steep mountains, moors since the area was settled in 930 by urur Bolungarvk offers a variety of accommo-

Bolungarvk and mostly uninhabited valleys, providing

it with rich gra zing la nd, interesting
wildlife, amazing birdlife, beautiful flora
and access to fabulous scenery.
Sunda f yllir, a lady with superhuma n
powers. Before sailing to Iceland she was
renowned all over Norway for her ability
to lure the fi sh into all the fjords she lived
dation possibilities with hotels, guesthouses
and a nice camp site next to the indoor
swimming pool with its outdoor hot pools
and a small water park for the young ones.
Toweri ng over t he v i l la ge a re t he in. No wonder she settled in Bolungarvk A short distance away from the village
Traaryrna and Bolafjall mountains, quite is a 9 hole golf course, open throughout
menacing during winter, but inviting during the summer. There are also a number of
summer, when the dirt road is open for hiking trails leading from Bolungarvk
access to the peaks, where one can enjoy and a tour company offering tours to
amazing scenery. The top, being relatively Jkulf irir and other interesting areas
flat, is pure joy to roam around with a view inhabited by all but the soaring birds.
to Greenland to the west, the majestic There are a number of good restaurants
mountain range of Jkulfi rir to the north and cafs in Bolungarvk, as well as a grocery
and the dwarf-like fishing boats working store, handicraft and art gallery. The village
has the Centre for Natural Research and has
an extensive bird and mammal collection
which gives a comprehensive overview of
the livestock and wildlife of the Westfjords.
Bolungar vk is actively work ing on a
health-awareness programme, emphasising
activity healthy food. When travelling the
Westfjords, its really worth a visit.
Bolungarvk SS

Aalstrti 12 415 Bolungarvk

+ 354 450 7000

bolungarvik@bolungarvik.is
www.bolungarvik.is

183
 Experience a Fishing Village
In town and as well as
the surrounding areas, nature is always close
Savk is an ideal place for families and nature lovers by with many attractions. The only family
park in the Westfjords is situated in the old

S avk is a f ishing village in

lftafj rur, safj ardardjp. Only 20
km from the domestic airport in safjrur
when the old part was hit by an avalanche.
Savk is an exciting destination that
off ers new and unique opportunities. The
part and the Artic Fox Centre occupies the
middle. Savk is a gateway to safjarardjp,
operating nature safari trips that include
it is ideally situated, surrounded by nature houses in the old town are now used by puffin, seal and, of course, the magnificent
and tranquility. The town moved in 1995 visitors in the summer. whales. Sea Angling is also a big part of the
tourism in Savk as it is situated close to one
of the best fishing areas in the world.
Visitors can choose everything from exciting
Northern Lights trips in the winter to the ideal
summer vacation for the whole family.
Savk is the ideal place for families looking
to experience the life of a small fishing village
and at the same time feel close to nature. Hiking
trails are numerous in the surrounding area and
very popular with locals and visitors alike.
Savk is a perfect hub to a ll the
wonderful experiences that the nature of
the Westfjords has to offer.
Savk

Grundarstrti 3 420 Savk

+ 354 450 5900

sudavik@sudavik.is
www.sudavik.is

Savk Adventure at Sea

Go fishing in the Westfjords waters with Icelandic Sea Angling
T he region of the Westfjords in northwest
Iceland is a world of rugged beauty.
Imagine a region where majestic mountains,
intimidating and wildly exhilarating to
explore with the naked eye, and the ice-cold
North Atlantic Ocean meetleaving but a
narrow platform for human existence.
For centuries, the brave seamen faced
the wrath of the sea to provide for their
families on shore. In winters, often fearing
for their lives, they faced violent waves that
dwarfed their little boats as they rowed out
from the fj ords or on calm summer days, To the owners of Iceland Sea Angling, traveller should miss. A day spent at sea,
heaved a sigh of relief as they set out. f ishing continues to be a way of life in with the occasiona l slap of sa lted sea
the twenty-first century. water and the loud calls of seabirds, is a
It was in 2006 when the adventure proper Icelandic adventure.
began with 5 boats in Tlknafjrur and 7 Guided tours are available in German,
in Savk. After only six years in the sea English and Icelandic.
angling business, the company fl eet has Iceland Sea Angling
JB
expanded dramatically with the addition
of 9 boats in Bolungarvk. Adalgata 2 420 Savk
Wit h ac c om mod at ion ava i lable i n +354 456 1540
a ll three communities, sea angling in icelandseaangling@icelandseaangling.is

the great fjords of the Westfjords is an www.icelandseaangling.is

exciting Icelandic experience no spirited

185
Westfjords

Icelands first settler

Find the furtive little arctic fox in Savk in the Westfjords
T he arctic fox is an enchanting creature.
At some point in the distant past, it and the hunters themselves, the last mentioned L L
A Photographer Gives a Different Perspective to Iceland
travelled across the frozen sea and, in containing, for example, objects and personal
spite of the inhospitable climate, found accounts from fox hunters. Other material is
a home on this small, isolated island. The
arctic fox is Icelands only native terrestrial
land mammal and has been the subject of
presented through written text or video and
of course there are quite a few stuffed animals.
Visitors are guided through the exhibition,
T ouched by Icelandic nature, German
photographer, Claus Sterneck, had
been a regular visitor to the country for
curiosity by scholars and lay people alike. which is one of a kind in Iceland and open several yearsbefore moving permanently
For this reason, The Arctic Fox Centre was all year round. The Centre is a non-profit to Reykjavik in 2008. Embracing the
established in the village of Savk in 2010, business, involved in research and studies countrys diversity, Claus has, through his
which is well fitting since the fox is the areas The Centre serves as an educational on the population of the fox. They also offer observation and the lens of his camera, Daily Facebook Photos Find Friends
distinctive animal. and cultural hub and offers an extensive guidance on arctic fox tours in collaboration captured a wide range of alluring photos The photographer started a project in
exhibition on the arctic fox as well as with tourist offices as well as believing in and from his environment. early 2012, called One Picture per Day,
Exhibition of the first native regularly exhibiting local art and craft. Its supporting ecotourism in Iceland. taking spontaneous photographs which he
The Centre is located in the oldest house main aim however, is to collect and preserve A nice little caf is run at the Centre, Capturing the Silence publishes daily on his Facebook page. As
in Savk, a 120 year old farm that was anything of importance regarding the arctic selling home baked pastries, light courses A regular visitor to Djpavk, his work from a result, he is getting great responses from
renovated by the local authorities and is fox and its long-lasting relationship with and wonderful coffee which guests can enjoy there displays the tranquility of its remote numerous people flicking through his work.
situated between what locals call the old man as, surprisingly, fox hunting is the out on the patio, overlooking the beautiful surroundings, silence and a certain affection. For those curious, his facebook address is
village, destroyed in a devastating avalanche oldest paid operation in Iceland. mountains and the sea. The Caf has an open These are often his most expressive photographs. www.facebook.com/claus.in.iceland.
in 1995, and the new village, built in its The exhibition is divided into three sections; Internet access. On Friday nights, live music
stead at a safe distance from the mountain. the biology of the fox, the hunting of the fox is performed in the loft, where its nice to sit Immersing the Viewer in the Experience Where Land and Talent Harmonise
down for a drink in the cosy atmosphere. Knowing that pictures can transport the viewer An artist by nature, Claus Sterneck lives life
The Centre also has a small boutique selling to a moment long gone or a place one would like to the fullest in the rural island of Iceland,
specially made souvenirs and craftwork. to be, Claus likes to combine audio recordings where his skill as a spectator shines through.
Arctic Fox Centre H with some of his photographs, recorded at the Claus in Iceland SP

same time the photo is taken. This takes the

Eyrardalur 420 Savk experience, by widening the range of senses, to thl 4 105 Reykjavk

+354 456 4922 a deeper level of perception. People have really +354 866 8358
melrakki@melrakki.is taken to this creative form of media. Tourists, in info@claus-in-iceland.com
www.melrakki.is particular, are very pleased to take home some www.claus-in-iceland.com

live memories of Iceland with them.

186 187
Westfjords

Beauty in Remoteness
History and Nature go hand-in-hand in rneshreppur
W hen heading to the magnificent
Westfords peninsula of North
Western Iceland, approaching rneshreppur
Small but sufficient services
A ba n k, c o - op a nd a c a f ser ve t h is
bustling little community; Sparisjur
County is one extraordinary journey. Strandamanna Bank in Norurfjrur is
open every weekday but Wednesday from
How to get there 13 -16. T he Steingrmsf jrur Co-op and sanitary facilities, open from June until

A Nature Paradise
Th is least populated community in Iceland has a petrol station as well as a great the end of August.
is served by Gjgur Airport, with year variety of products for sale. Then Caf Urartindur Tourist Ser vices offers
round scheduled flights by Eagle Air. From Norurfjrur, one of the most northerly excellent summer house rental and a campsite.
Reykjavk to rneshreppur, f lying takes cafs in Iceland, offers a varied menu of The Iceland Touring Association, another Htel Djpavk, comfort and care at the edge of the world
only about half an hourthe ideal trip
especially in the wintertime, as the road
connecting the region to the rest of Iceland
national dishes. rneshreppur has also
a great community centre, ideal for any
type of celebration.
great option, owns a hut in Valgeirsstair,
with a dining room and a kitchen and
accommodation for 20 people.
U ntouched nature and interesting when Eva Sig u rbjrnsdt t ir a nd her
history are among the attractions of
husba nd sbjrn orgilsson, decided
to cu lt ivate g ue st s rat her t ha n f ish.
Djpavk at Strandir. In this remote part
can be closed for weeks during winter, If you are searching for homely sleeping We had planned to start a fish farm but
of Iceland, a special breed of people found
leaving transport by air the only option. A trip back in time bag arrangement, Norurfjrur Guest a way to live off the land and, when all the
were unable to get a loan from the bank, Eva and sbjrn provide guidance and
For local history, Krt Museum has an House is definitely the place to look for, says Eva. We had bought the womens
fj ords were fi lled with herring, this quiet advice on what to see and how to get
You visit for the landscapes and the life impressive display of old artefacts from open from 10th of June until 31st of August. dormitor y a long with the old herring
cove became important in the hunt for the there along with comfort and rest after a
With rneshreppur boasting some of the a rea a nd of fer a rts a nd cra f ts for Bergistangi Guesthouse has two bedrooms silver of the sea. Now it is a paradise for
factory and the hotel started there. long days exploration.
Icelands most astonishing landscapes, sale. Another example of notable work available, each with beds for three people. Most of the guests staying at Htel
walkers and nature lovers who fi ll up Htel
hiking trails and walking paths are truly dating from the past is the creation of The old Meat Freezing Pla nt (now Djpavk from early spring till autumn.Djp av k a re i n s e a rc h of a n at u re A Historical Exhibition
enjoyed in this unique nature. eiderdown duvets and pillows. Gathered renovated as a hostel) ser ves up to 28 experience. Many walk from one f jord The Herring Factory is now the site of
Then the geothermal swimming pool at by hand, the eiderdown is then cleaned people and has cooking facilities. Old factory and dormitory to another but others use cars, kayaks or Djpavk s Historical Exhibition where
Krossnes is surely both dramatic and scenic and processed by people with decades of Finally, feigsfjrur Tourist Services offer Htel Djpavk was established in 1985 boats to get from place to place. old photographs and texts lead viewers
definitely something not to be missed. experience in this field. a campsite and even luggage transportation, through the life and times of people in
One characteristic of the area are the two from June until the end of August. this quiet cove at the edge of the world.
herring factories, built in early 20th century, Any traveller interested in the diversity of A guided tour of the factory is held two
one in Inglfsfjrur and one in Djpavk, Icelandic nature and nation should not miss times per day, at 10am and 2pm.
a mute reminder of the times past. the opportunity to visit this phenomenal The factory also hosts art exhibitions
place of the north. during the summer.
Accomodation rneshreppur SP Htel Djpavk JB
For accommodation, rneshreppur has
several good options. The beautifully situated Norurfjrur 524 rneshreppur Djpavk 524 rneshreppur
Htel Djpavk offers accommodation with +354 451 4001 +354 451 4037
breakfast and is open all year round. arneshreppur@simnet.is djupavik@snerpa.is

Finnbog a st air School Hostel ha s none www.djupavik.com

sleeping bag accommodation with cooking

188 189
Westfjords
It called for all kinds
of changes for the f ishing community,
both hotels and restaurants and today
there is a variety of accommodation in
Hlmav k . Finna Htel wou ld be a n
excel lent choice. It is loc ated on t he
hill slopes of the village and thus has
quite a vie w over t he villa ge a nd t he
Hnaf li bay.
Finna Hotel is altogether three f loors,
w it h a reception a nd brea k fa st room
on the ground f loor. Newly renovated, There are number of sorcery recipes at
along the veranda outside, it offers you the museum, the potion for making oneself
a cosy time-out, whether you choose to invisible, for example, where the preparation
sit indoors or outdoors. of the ink is the most difficult task. Collect
The hotel has t welve air y and three drops of blood from the index fi nger
beautifully furnished rooms, either with of your left hand, three from the ring finger
or without an en suite bathroom. It also of your right hand, two from your right
of fer s sleepi ng-ba g ac c om mod at ion. nipple, and one from your left nipple. Mix

Where East is West

The rooms without en suite bathrooms the blood with six drops of blood from the

Of Sorcerers and Witches

all have sinks and access to communal heart of a living raven and melt it all with
bathrooms. the ravens brain and pieces of a human
Finna Hotel is Set in the Sorcery and Witchcraft Area SS
The Museum Dedicated to an Extraordinary Profession
Htel Finna stomach. Carve the sign on the lignite with

H lmavk is the home of the

Mu s e u m o f Ic e l a n d i c S o r c e r y
and Witchcraft, located in a region the
it came as no surprise to the islanders
when a museum and a research centre
into witchcra f t a nd sorcer y wa s
Borgabraut 4 510 Hlmavk

+354 451 3136 T he Museum of Icelandic Sorcery and

Witchcraft in Hlmavk is an excellent
until recently, has drawn little attention from
historians. For decades, prosecutions for
magnetic steel which has been hardened
three times in human blood. The museum
even has an invisible boy on display.
Icelanders have always maintained to be established in this quiet little f ishing nnahotel@nnahotel.is place to get acquainted with the Icelandic witchcraft and sorcery dominated the courts The Histor y and A nnals of the 17t h
different as in superhuman energy and villa ge on t he ea st coa st of t he West www.nnahotel.is
soul. Superstitions and folklores are quite and it was generally believed that the Devil century, persons involved in witchcraft
psychic power different. Consequently, Fjords. Its where east is west. revealingand also great fun. Founded himself roamed the earth, taking an active and the folklore surrounding it, Icelandic
in the year 2000, the museum exhibits part in the lives of humans. During the Gr i moi r e s , M a g ic a l St a ve s , R u ne s ,

Hlmavks Harbour House

artefacts related to sorcery and is home to persecutions and burnings for witchcraft, the Magical Flora, Magical Stones; they are
the only necropants in the world. region of Strandir was regarded as the home all part of this splendid museum.

Steinhsi - modern accommodation in a house from another era

By the beginning of the 17th century, the of the cunning. As a result the region holds a There is a lso a f urther pa rt to the
Reformation Period was past in Iceland. unique heritage of superstition, folklore and museum: The Sorcerers Cottage in Bjarna-

T wo do or s s pl a s he d w it h br i g ht r e l i v i n g i t s f o r m e r g l o r y d a y s i n
r e d p a i nt a n nou nc e t he r e c e nt Hlmavk, the large town in the eastern
re storat ion of a home bu i lt i n 1911, pa r t of t he We st Fjord s. Stei n hu si
What commenced was a century which, the history of the 17th century. fj rur, where one can easily understand
how the sorcerers survivedwhy their
solitudeand yes, they were real.
is a n outpost of comfort in what ca n A guide through the museum is available
be a de sol ate a re a , of fer i n g moder n in six languages: English, Spanish, German,
accommodation in t he midst of a Dutch, French and Italian and shortly it will
traditional f ishing village. Its location also be available in Hebrew and Russian.
near the harbour and across the street There is a restaurant/caf specialising in
from Hlmavk s attractions, such a s the fresh local mussels at the museum. Surely
the Witchcra f t and Sorcer y Museum, the sorcerers have applied their influence on
Cafe R iis, and artists workshop, make rooms a nd a sepa rate f u l ly-equ ipped the ocean and seashoreas those will be the
Steinhusi an ideal place to rest before k itchen on the bottom. A n adjoining most delicious mussels youll ever taste.
embarking further into the Westfjords. apa r t ment w it h a s epa r ate ent r a nc e B ot h mu s e u m a nd re s t au r a nt a re
The main house has five bedrooms on features a large bedroom, kitchen, and open all year round and in addition, the
the second f loor with t wo large living small living room. Tongue and groove museum a lso of fers day tours around
painted wood walls meld with modern the most bewitched area and a meeting
furnishings to invoke the past without with the trolls that tried to separate the
forsaking contemporary comforts. Westfjords from the mainland.
Steinhsi KB Strandagaldur SS

Hfagata 1 510 Hlmavk Hfagata 8-10 510 Hlmavk

+354 856 1911 +354 897 6525

steinhusid@steinhusid.is galdrasyning@holmavik.is
www.steinhusid.is www.galdrasyning.is

190 191
Westfjords

Trolling the Westfjords

seals and, occasionally, whales. Large
stones sheltering them from strong coastal

Living Legends in Drangsnes

winds have teardrops car ved in them,
created by artist Mireyja Samper.

A ccording to an old Icelandic folk tale,

the Westfjords were nearly separated
from Iceland by a relentless trio of trolls,
coastline of a tiny fishing village called
Drangsnes at the far end of Steingrimsfjorur
bears marks of the troll womans handiwork.
An annual festival, held in the middle
of July, celebrates Drangsnes livelihood
by tickling the palette with tastes of minke
furiously digging away at the narrow strip Her grim profile, transformed into stone by the whale, puffin, seal, and a wide variety of
of soil fanning off to form the Westfjords. first rays of sunlight, watches over Grimsey. fish from the fjord. Kids and adults can
One troll woman competing against her Happy accidents have helped Drangsnes try their hand at sea-angling, while braver
conspirators realised that her monumental both in legend and reality. A source of visitors attempt to swim through strong
ta sk would not be accomplished a nd geothermal water was discovered when currents to Grimsey. The festival has steadily
slammed the spade of her shovel down in someone forgot to shut of f the water expanded over sixteen years of celebration
a rage, breaking off a chunk of land with supply feeding into the fi sh factory. When and has grown to host thousands of people.
her ox on it, thus forming Grimsey, the the town furiously sought water by boring The festival is run entirely by volunteers
small island near Drangsnes and home to holes, they struck geothermal gold: a hot who pour into Drangsnes to help the 65
the worlds most concentrated puffin colony. water source that now heats the entire townspeople prepare to receive guests.
Though the trolls were unsuccessful in village and provides free hot tubs on the Drangsnes has a long relationship with
breaking off the Westfjords, the choppy beach from where visitors watch birdlife, volunteers who have travelled to help not
only with the festival, but with various
projects such as building the community
centre. Cooperation is an important
part of life here, says Jenny Jensdttir,
without it we couldnt survive.
Too bad the legendary trolls were too busy
to realize this. Perhaps if they had adopted
the spirit of Drangsnes residents, they would
be floating on an island called Westfjords
rather than sitting in stony silence.
Kaldrananeshreppur KB

Holtagata 520 Drangsnes

+354 451 3277

drangsnes@drangsnes.is
www.drangsnes.is

192
 North Iceland
Life under the Midnight Sun - North Icelands diversity makes it an exciting place Lake Mvatn area

S
ummer in the North is characterised by the midnight
sun. You can play golf, go seal and whale watching,
horse riding, hiking, swimming, fishing, river rafting,
Map lafur Valsson
bird-watching, camping or simply enjoy the disparate
forms of nature. The region wears a different coat in
winter, when you can ride horses on the frozen lakes in
Mvatn under the Northern Lights or ski the slopes just
minutes from Akureyri town centre. The town is known
as the winter sports capital of Iceland.
Northern Iceland is probably Icelands most diverse
regionin every sphere. Nature varies from the mystical
area around Mvatn Lake, a birdwatching paradise, to the
awesome horse-shoe canyon of sbyrgi, the thunderous
waterfalls at Goafoss and Dettifoss, Askjas calderas
and volcanos, or islands like Drangey, to name a few.
Tours to the Highlands in the summer, to Askja for
example, are unforgettable. The region is bursting with
vibrant history, just waiting to be enjoyed. Museums are
found in almost every town, with fascinating insights into
fields such as the seals at Selasetur in Hvammstangi or the
Whale Museum in Hsavk to the turf house of Glaumbr
farm in Skagafjrur. Then Skagastrnd, home to the
Museum of Prophecies is known as the country music
capital of Iceland. In Hjaltadal valley in Skagafjrur is
Hlar, formerly the episcopal see and site of the first
printing press. Siglufjrur hosts the Folk Music and
Herring museums. Blndus has several museums, as
does Akureyri, the largest town of the north, along with
its art galleries and rich culture.
Grjtagj, a popular bathing place
Photos; courtesy of the North Iceland Marketing Office.

194 195
Enjoying summer in Akureyri

A sheep round-upthe Rttir An old farm, Glaumbr

The swimmingpool in Akureyri The town of Dalvk River rafting in Skagafjrur

 Skiing down Trllaskagi

Akureyri The strange island of Hvtserkur

Playing golf in the midnight sun Goafoss waterfall

 Whos Watching Whom?
Seal watching from the sea
A treat for children and adults alike, this Seal watching tours are offered twice-daily

Blndus Hvammstangi summer it will be possible to take an

unforgettable seal watching tour with Seal
Watching ehf. From the decks of their most
recent acquisition, the Brimill, you will get a
from June through August at 10:00 and 13:00.
Sightings ranging anywhere from 12 to 95
seals are possible and, as the boat approaches,
the captain will turn off the engines, getting are home to about 12,000 Common seals

W
chance to observe seals at one of the very best you within about 45 metres of the seals, much and 4,000 Grey sealsthe two native seal
seal watching locations in Iceland, Mifjrur species that are thought to rarely leave the
closer than is possible on land. Puffins, as well
fjord, along the Vatnsnes Peninsula. as other migratory birds, inhabit the area everyIcelandic shelf. The Common seal, being the
Seals are one of the star attractions of summer and are also great to watch. Other more outgoing and curious of the two species,
aqua-parks and zoos around the world with tours on offer are a 3 hour sea angling tour congregates in small groups on skerries and
their graceful swimming and cute antics. and a 2 hour midnight cruise which starts at rocky beaches and is more easily spotted than
Its one thing, however, to see them in 23:00. (from 10th June to 20th July only) the shyer Grey seal. Solitary vagrants such as
captivity and quite another to see them in Harp seals, Ringed seals and Hooded seals
their natural habitat. Playful and curious by A few surprising facts... are sometimes seen during the winter, while
nature, the seals often swim quite close to With puffins and whales grabbing many Bearded seals and Walruses are very rare.
the boat for a better look at you! Then it is a headlines in recent years, it may come as (Information courtesy of the Icelandic Ministry of
question of who is watching whom? rather a surprise to find that Icelandic coasts Fisheries and Agriculture)
Sea lwatching ehf is located in t he
sm a l l v i l la ge of Hva m m a st a ng i, on
Mifjrurfjord, on the west side of Vatnsnes
Peninsula. The village is easily accessible, just
7 km off the main ring road, about half way
between Reykjavik and Akureyri.
Selasigling EMV

Hfabraut 13 530 Hvammstangi

+354 897 9900

selasigling@simnet.is
www.sealwatching.is

201
North Iceland

Gatewaytothe VatnsnesPeninsula
The Icelandic Seal Centre at Hvammstangi

T he Icelandic Seal Centre of Hvammstangi,

the gateway to the picturesque Vatnsnes
Peninsula, provides the perfect starting point
way to learn about these gentle creatures
than a stop at the Icelandic Seal Centre in
Hvammstangi? Now operating in its new 280
for the exploration of this outstandingly square metre premises, the centre multitasks
beautiful but little-visited corner of North as a museum, research centre and tourist
West Iceland. Heralded as the ultimate seal- information desk, all under one roof.
viewing destination in Iceland, the Vatnsnes Th rough its varied educational exhibits
Peninsula offers visitors a unique opportunity and cultural displays that include seal importance in Icelandic history and present
to observe both harbour seals and grey seals folklore, the centre offers a comprehensive day sustainability issues surrounding this
in their natural habitats. And what better view of seals in Iceland, their role and sometimes controversial marine mammal.

The Life of Salmon

At the tourist information desk, visitors can
why. It answers questions on why some rivers book seal watching tours, either on land or

Anglers pay fortunes for the privilege to catch this fish

are more popular amongst the salmon than by sea, as well as accommodation in the area.
others, which conditions are ideal and why Established in 2005, the centre is dedicated

T he Icelandic Salmon Centre is an the centre, is an exhibition sporting the live

interesting and informative destination
salmon, its habitat, feeding grounds and
when travelling the northern part of Iceland.
mating habits. It is the only salmon centre in
this fi sh is so fascinating that hundreds of
men and women from all over the world pay
fortunes to be allowed to catch itand in
to ongoing seal research, educational outreach
and the promotion of sustainable tourism,
particularly as it pertains to seal populations
It is located in Blndus in Hnavatnsssla Iceland, connected to Hlar University and most instances, just release it again. in and around the Vatnsnes Peninsula.
where most of the great salmon-fishing rivers
the Institute of Freshwater Fisheries of Iceland. Laxasetur slands SS Selasetur slands EMV
in Iceland are found. Indeed, one of them, Since its opening in 2012, it has become
Blanda, runs right through the town. increasingly popular with, not just salmon Efstabraut 1 540 Blndus Strandgtu 1 530 Hvammstanga
fishers, but all those interested in nature and its +354 452 2900 +354 451 2345
An Exhibition for Old and Young endless resources not least children of all ages. laxasetur@laxasetur.is info@selasetur.is

The exhibition is divided into three parts: The exhibition explains the different www.laxasetur.is www.selasetur.is

Biology, History and Salmon fishing. At salmon species, where they come from and

194 km from
of the most wonderful camping grounds in Reykjavik on
the country. Situated in a peaceful dale and Road No. 1

sheltered by the surrounding mountains, its

KIDKA
a paradise for families: secluded but yet with The Wool Factory Shop
all services to hand, including sanitary and
leisure facilities and stores.
The towns general store, as indicated by
the name, sells practically everything you The Wool Factory Shop enables you
might need: groceries, hardware and farm to buy directly from the people who
produce, while also housing the local liquor make traditional natural Icelandic
store. First founded in 1909, its a joint wool products and ornaments in
ownership of the farmers and the people original colours.
of Hvammstangi and as such, sticks to old
Hfabraut 34 530 Hvammstangi +354 451 0060 kidka@simnet.is www.kidka.com
values and trade practices. In many ways its
the heart of the community and sums up the
Holiday cottages Double & family Camp site with a Fishing Mini-golf Hot Pot Sauna
spirit of the village. Restaurant for rooms with or without fully-equipped permits can be
60 people private facilities service house arranged
Summertime opening hours
Monday - Thursday 9 - 18
Friday 9 - 19
Saturday 11 - 16 Gauksmri Lodge
Family leisure, comfort and beauty Holiday services emphasising
A warm welcome at Hvammstangi H nature and horsemanship. With

T
Kaupflag Vestur-Hnvetninga

hough the most densely populated gorgeous scenery and historical sites, and accommodation, refreshments,

Dli Holiday Farm

area in the beautiful west Hnaing with a seal habitat within walking distance, Strandgata 1 530 Hvammstangi horse-rental, horse shows and
County, Hvammstangi has a population of a its an interesting and highly memorable +354 455 2300 bird watching.
mere 580 and welcomes visitors with all the place to visit. The town ha s a great kvh@kvh.is

warmth and hospitality of a small village. swimming pool with a water slide and well- www.kvh.is Accomodation, Camping, Restaurant & Bar Gauksmri 531 Hvammstanga +354 451 2927
Being in close vicinity to Vatnsnes, with its reviewed guesthouses, not to mention one Dli 531 Hvammstangi +354 451 2566 daeli@daeli.is www.daeli.is gauksmyri@gauksmyri.is www.gauksmyri.is

202 203
North Iceland

A Guesthouse with History A First Stop

Whether driving from Mvatn, Keflavk or
Guesthouse Blndus Offers Comfort Amidst Stunning Views even from the Norrna passenger ship at
Seyisfjrur, Blndus Guesthouse is a perfect

V isiting Blndus, guests are able to

feel the special atmosphere of the old
town centre where the charming Blndus
in the restaurant at the adjacent Htel
Blndus, where brea k fast and lunch
packs are also available.
place to stop for 2-3 nights, enjoying what
Iceland has to offerat an affordable price.
Enjoy t he beaut y of t he Ic ela nd ic
Guesthouse stands. Originally built as a Blndus has numerous activities to countryside, participate in your favourite
postoffi ce, this magnifi cent building has enjoy. Sports enthusiasts can take a swing activity, or just relax in one of Blndus
a history to it. at the 9-hole golf course just outside town, Guesthouse scenic rooms.
Renovated in 2000, it is a two-storey, visit the sports centre or swimming pool. Gamla Psthsi SP
nine-bedroom guesthouse housing about Th ose with affi nity for fi shing are sure to
20 visitors. The rooms have beautiful get a good catch nearby. Grundargtu 50 350 Grundarfjrur

views of eit her Sk aga f jll mounta ins Blndus also off ers the only Handcraft +354 430 8043
or R iver Blanda. Bathrooms, toilets, Museum in Iceland, a Sea Ice Exhibition gisting@tsc.is
www.gamlaposthusid.is
showers and kitchen facilities are available Centre in the old part of town and The
on both f loors. Regular meals are served Icelandic Textile Centre.

Let the River Sing You to Sleep

Glaheimar Cottages and Campsite are right by the river in Blndus
By the Blanda estuary is Htel Blndus,
a delightful little country hotel with a fully
licensed bar and a restaurant specialising in
traditional Icelandic cuisine, what Icelanders
refer nostalgically to as grandmothers
I ncreasingly, tourists are recognising that
Iceland is a destination of choice whatever
the time of year. Venturing beyond the
38 persons each. Hot tubs come standard
with most of the cottages, and four cottages
have a sauna in addition. We also run a
rivers, so horse riding, hiking, kayaking and
canoeing are also popular activities.
cooking. From the cosy lounge one can Reykjavik area opens up a totally different campsite and a caravan park. Glaheimar is an ideal place from which
observe the beautiful sunset, the calm or world of fascinating sights and experiences. Blndus has only 900 inhabitants. to base while you explore all the area has to
raging sea and depending on the weather and As you drive north on the Ring Road, you However, it is blessed with a wide range of offer. Blndus has enough things to do
the season, the dance of the northern lights. come to the town of Blndus in the North services and leisure opportunities. Theres a for visitors for a day. For those who choose
The rooms and suites are beautiful, each of Iceland. In recent years, a lot has been swimming pool, a 9-hole golf course, cafs to stay with us for a few days, there are at
with its own style, colour range and private happening there that makes it a place worth, not and restaurants and a grocery store. least four distinctive day drives, says Lrus.
bath. The suites are especially romantic with just stopping in, but staying in for awhile, too. Museums include the Atlantic Salmon Just ask him or one of his staff when youre

Cosy Nostalgia sloping ceilings, soft lighting and lovely

linen. It is quite a treat to spend a few days
Glaheimar cottages and campsite are
on the northern shores of the River Blanda.
Museum, Sea Ice Exhibition Centre and the
Icelandic Textile Centre and Textile Museum.
there. After a days activities in the area, those
cottages with their hot pots and saunas sound
Htel Blndus brings a romantic ambience to its rooms at this lovely hotel in charming Blndus. This moderately priced accommodation, They have exhibits that you wont find elsewhere, very attractivewhatever the weather.

F or t hose look ing for excitement,

Blndus may not look like much to
the casual observer. In fact, from your car
the best salmon fishing rivers in Iceland
and the town is the starting point for
numerous hiking trails into the highlands
Htel Blndus
SS set quite close to Route No.1, is a very
convenient place to stay for those travelling
around Iceland, as well as those who might
so they are worth taking the time to see. The
Romanesque church is also worth visiting.
That river doesnt just contain water. Some
Glaheimar ASF

Aalgata 6 540 Blndus Melabraut 21 540 Blndus

window you will only see petrol stations, and along the shoreline. It is a paradise for +354 452 4205 wish to spend time fishing in the area. of the best salmon rivers in Iceland are in this +354 820 1300
a church, a river and a camping site. But birdwatchers and, during the winter, offers hotelblonduos@simnet.is Were open all year round, says Lrus B. area, so the fishing is really good, with the gladheimar@simnet.is

all is not what it seems: the river Blanda, a variety of winter-sports. Blndus also has www.hotelblonduos.is Jnsson, who is responsible for the site. We average salmon weighing 4 kg. The countryside www.gladheimar.is

which courses through the town, is one of an great variety of interesting museums. have 20 fully-equipped cottages suitable for is really beautiful, especially around these

204 205
North Iceland

Refreshments on the Road Unrequited Love

by the beautiful mouth of the river Blanda. Hot e l Hu n ave l l i r i s a c o s y hot e l
It is a family-friendly restaurant, with its with twenty-eight rooms, sleeping bag

Potturinns the Perfect Stopping Place in the North Hunavellir Hotel is Surrounded by Sagas of Struggle
own childrens corner and enough space accommodation and a camping ground.
for everybody to stretch their legs. If you There is travel service, which can show you

W ill you be travelling with a big A spacious restaurant, one can find a wide are around Blndus at noon it is a good
group who a ll have their own variety of courses in order to tank up for time to check out Potturinns lunch off er
special needs concerning food and drink? further travelling or for a relaxing evening for great and hearty food.
D o you want to discover the beautiful,
captivating, yet tragic love stories hidden
amongst the green fields and serene landscape
poet Vatnsenda Rsa; and one of the most all the possibilities the area has to offer,
remarkable Icelandic sagas, Vatnsdla. making touring with groups in this part of
If you want to explore the surroundings the country both attractive and accessible.
Or perhaps with children, who need to be NNA of Hunathing? Stories mixed with salty tears of Blndus, Hotel Hunavellir is the place Hotel Hunavellir NNA
Potturinn
able to run around when they get out of of lovers, who werent meant for each other; to start your explorationespecially if you
the car? Then Potturinn in Blndus is the Norurlandsvegi 4 540 Blndusi stories that even led to spilled blood? want a little comfort with your exploration. Hnavallaskli 541 Blndusi
perfect stop for you. It is a classic shop on +354 453 5060 Hunathing is the setting of some the Located just by the town of Blndus, the +354 453 5600
Route One, or the ring road as it is usually pot@pot.is best known stories of Icelandic history: hotel itself has a wide variety of facilities, info@hotelhunavellir.is

called in Icelandic, but has more choices to www.pot.is

the struggle of the outlaw Fjalla-Eyvindur including a swimming pool, hot tubs, sport www.hotelhunavellir.is

offer then the usual burger shop by the road. and his wife Halla; the love story of the facilities and a great outdoor area.

Live Like an Outlaw Coffee with the Schoolmaster W

hether you are staying in Blndus
or travelling through, make sure

Eyvindarstofa shows what an Outlaws Life was like in Iceland Vi rbakkann is a Caf with a Style all its Own
you stop at the lovely Vi rbakkann caf,
especially if you are in the mood for good

T he sa me bu i ld ing which hou ses

Potturinn offers an interesting surprise:
Eyvindarstofa, a themed restaurant based
reasons he managed to exist in the vicious
we at her c ond it ions of t he Ic ela nd ic
wilderness.
cup of coffee in especially nice surroundings.
Located in the old school principals home,
a beautiful old-style house, it is a cosy caf
on the life of Icelands most famous outlaw, Eyvindarstofa can host up to seventy people, with a charming environment. It is the perfect
Fjalla-Eyvindur (Mountain-Eyvindur). making it a fascinating option for big groups. place to take your morning coffee or to have
This king of mountaineering survived A special menu has been put together using the a light meal in the afternoon. On a fine day,
forty years on the run in the wilderness cream of Icelands crop, such as fresh salmon, it is quite lovely to enjoy your snack or drink
with his wife, Ha lla, enduring harsh slowly cooked lamb on the bone and a divine outside on the patio by the house. A stroll
conditions unimaginable to modern people. blend of rye-bread and rhubarb. by the river Blanda or through the town is
He was renowned for his resourcefulness, The uniqueness of Eyvindarstofa is created recommended to get the most from your visit.
navigational and survival skills; the only by the carefully decorated interior, designed Vi rbakkann offers a wide variety of
in the spirit of the outlaw life. Fjalla- light courses, such as their renowned fi ne
Eyvindur was known for his craftsmanship fish soup, refreshing salads, sandwiches
a nd the crocker y at Ey vinda rstofa is Eyvindarstofa offers both a special lunch and bagels. If you are a sweet tooth, make
designed in the manner of his handiwork. menu as well as a three course dinner menu. sure you taste the waffles or cakes. For a full
The feel of his stay in the wilderness also One can also dine at Potturinn and then meal, there are meat and fish dinner specials
comes across in the beautiful interiors that visit the exhibition honouring the life and and the caf does its best to serve only the
simulate the wild nature. struggles of Fjalla-Eyvindur and Halla. freshest food from the region.
Just entering Eyvindarstofa is like entering Eyvindarstofa NNA Vi rbakkann NNA
another world, walking its narrow stone
corridors, not really knowing where you are Norurlandsvegi 4 540 Blndusi Hnabraut 2 540 Blndusi
going. It certainly enhances the mystery of +354 453 5060 +354 452 4678
the whole adventure. Children simply love it! pot@pot.is info@vidarbakkann.is

One c a n enjoy t his specia l out law www.eyvindarstofa.is www.vidarbakkann.is

experience with or without dining, but

206 207
 fine day, its lovely to stroll
along the harbour and take in the smell of
the sea before going for some refreshments at
the beautiful Caf Bjarmanes which stands
on the cliffs overlooking the harbour and the
open sea. Close to Caf Bjarmanes youll find
rnes museum, a tiny and utterly charming
house, originally built in 1899 and therefore
the oldest house in Skagastrnd. The house
was renovated a few years ago by the town
and now serves as a window into the past for
those who visit it. All interiors are from the
beginning of the 20th century and give a good
picture of fairly well-to-do Icelandic homes
from this period.

Capital of Country
The norths most musical town
A sk Icelanders what first comes to
mind when the name Skagastrnd
is mentioned and chances are theyll say,
towns annual Country festival which is
held in mid August each year. Recently a
Country museum was opened at Skagastnd The Museum of Prophecies and Cape
country music. Strange? Perhaps, since in honour of Hallbjrn and his work. Spkonufellshfi
a small fishing village in the northwest The first inhabitant in Skagastrnd is believed

Skagastrnd of Iceland isnt exactly what you would

typically associate with cowboys and line
dancing. Nonetheless, thats the case here.
to have been rds the Soothsayer, a widely
known woman of the 10th century whose name
is mentioned in many of the Icelandic sagas.
rds was famous for her ability to see into
Kntrbr the future and at the Museum of Prophecies,
Veteran musician Hallbjrn Hjartarson, a her story is told on a painted tapestry. The
native of Skagastrnd, has promoted country exhibition provides information about
music for years and is a household name in prophecies and visitors can have their fortunes
Iceland. He runs the famous Kntrbr told and palms read. rds lived by the
(Country Town) restaurant, a must stop The village foothills of Mountain Spkonufell and stories
for anyone visiting Skagastrnd, as well Apart from its close ties to music, Skagastrnd tell of her daily walks up the mountain where
as a country and western radio station. is primarily a fishing village. In the summer, shed comb her hair with a special gold comb.
Hallbjrn is often referred to as the Cowboy the small port is a lively whirlpool of boats Cape Spkonufellshfi is a protected
of the North and he is the originator of the and people, ever coming and going. On a area and a popular hiking route. A telescope
and information signs have been put up to
give insight into the capes rich history.
The towns camp ground is nicely situated
in a quiet sheltered area and has good
facilities, a playground for kids and a service
house with a dining area and a washing
machine. Skagastrnd also has a nice
swimming pool and a 9-hole golf course.
Sveitarflagi Skagastrnd
H

Tnbraut 1-3 545 Skagastrnd

+354 455 2700

skagastrond@skagastrond.is
www.skagastrond.is

209
North Iceland

Horses, History
and Nature
Skagafjrur Diverse Nature, Great Adventures and Historical Experiences
W hen the Icelandic traveller thinks
of Skagafjrur, what undoubtedly
comes to mind is the steep, picturesque cliff
natural variety with steep mountains, fertile
inlands and a varied coastal environment.
The biggest town the area of Skagafjrur is
age of Sturlungs fought. Historic facts such as
these can be learned in Skagafjrur through
various museums and places of historic
story says that a big hand came out of the swimming to the sea and to Drangey while
cliff and grabbed him. He heard a voice say, swimming in the warm water of the pool.
the bad ones need somewhere to be. The Skagafj rur has, in total, seven pools
of Drangey, which towers majestically in the Sauakrkur after which come the village of importance. For example, the turf farmhouse bishop decided not to bless Drangey. across the area as well as various hot springs
midst of the big fjord from which the district Hofss and other smaller villages. at Glaumbr shows clearly how life used to to bathe in, the most famous one being
derives its name. Resulting from countless Skagafjrur could also be said to be be in rural Iceland; the Minjahsi museum Grettislaug at Reykir.
references to Drangey both in history and the centre of a historic circle ranging in Sauarkrkur is unique for showing
culture, this small island is firmly embedded from Blndus, west of Skagafjrur to how artisans workshops used to be and Being in Nature among Horses and Birds
in the Icelandic psyche. Siglufjrur in the north and Akureyri in the Icelandic Emigration Centre in Hofss Skagafjrur is a fitting place to enjoy horses.
S e c ond ly, w h at c ome s to m i nd i s the east. Hlar Hjaltadal, the old bishopric focuses on the mass emigration from Iceland Not only do the various horse-riding companies
t he Ic ela nd ic horse. Sk a g a f jru r is of the North, in fact used to be the most to North-America in the 19th century. in the area provide a variety of trips but you
a n importa nt breeding place for this important in the North. Many who served can also visit a breeding farm, see horse shows At the end of a day, you can visit one of
beautiful, humble servant that enabled as bishops of the North are arguably some of The Bad need Somewhere to Be and even experience a horse corral if you are in the many restaurants in the area serving
people to survive throughout the centuries Icelands most important figures. This cliff in Skagafjrur certainly has a Skagafjrur at the right time of year! high-quality food made under the Food
in harsh conditions. These two distinctive mystic character to it. According to old Skagafjrur is a nice area to explore on Chest concept, which encourages the
features frame the different possibilities folktales, the cliff itself is an old female horseback. There are many uninhabited eating of local produce.
Skagafjrur has to offer; an area of natural troll who turned to stone at daybreak while places not too far from town providing Whether you are travelling with the
wonders and an abundance of cultural and traversing the fjord, as trolls cant handle you with the tranquility to enjoy nature. whole family, by yourself or with your
recreational activities. sunlight. Grettir, in the famous Icelandic Th is story does not frighten the locals, Whether you like a short trip, or a multi- pa r tner or friends, Sk a ga f jrur ha s
saga bearing his name, was an extremely who go every Spring to collect eggs and day excursion to the highlands, you will be something for everybody!
An important historical area strong but ill-tempered man, who ended his birds on the cliff s of Drangey. able to experience it here. Skagafjrur NHH
Skagafjrur is a municipality in the North days in Drangey as an outlaw. There are various other ways to enjoy the
of Iceland which covers the area from One of the historic bishops at Hlar, An inspiring way to enjoy water nature of Skagafjrur; watching and listening Skagringabraut 21 550 Saupakrkur

most of the peninsulas creating the fjord Sites of Interest Gumundur the Good decided he was going By Hofss, you can find a great way to enjoy to the rich birdlife, pumping some adrenaline +354 455 6000
itself to the broad valley that bears the The battle of rlygsstair, the biggest battle to bless all of Iceland by ridding the land of the view of Drangey. The new swimming in your body by river rafting in the glacial skagafjordur@skagafjordur.is

name of the fjord and goes all the way to in the history of Iceland, also took place in vile beings. But once, as he hung from the pool is a masterpiece of design. Once you are rivers, hike the various trails in the area or sail www.skagafjordur.is

the highlands. Thus, it is an area of great Skagafjrur, when the great families in the cliffs of Drangey, to expedite this work, the in the pool you get the impression that you are on a boat to Drangey and Mlmey.

210 211
North Iceland

Skagafjrurs
Treasure Trove The rich heritage of the past is preserved to be enjoyed

S kagaf jrur Heritage Museum has

exhibitions in four places: The old turf
building at Glaumbr, Heritage House in
to Iceland. The evolution of the Icelandic
farmhouse was influenced by the local lack
of timber and its use to heat houses, the lack
and education of the different specialists
working here. The current staff includes two
archaeologists, a geographer, and a historian
museum pays homage to blacksmiths,
carpenters, saddle makers and watchmakers.
Yes, you read correctlywatchmakers.
2008. Sadly, it had to be put down after
it made a gesture to attack photographers
and the general public who out of curiosity
Saurkrkur, Emigration Centre at Hofss of locally available building material, and with further specialisations in human The Danish king visited Iceland in 1907. ventured too close. The interest in the
and The Icelandic Horse History Centre. shortage of capital to spend on imported osteology, philosophy and ethnography. Young J. Frank Michelsen was in the kings animal was quite understandable because
Glaumbr turf farmhouse, with its materials. Iceland is the only country in the Skagafjrur is a treasure trove when it entourage. He returned Saurkrkur in polar bears are a rare sight in Iceland.
ma ny rooms, pieces of f urniture a nd world where youll fi nd a passage turf and comes to heritage studies and we strive to 1909 where he set up a shop selling jewellery,
utensils is perhaps the most interesting stone house with A-framed wooden gables make our research available to laymen and clocks and watches. Today, the fourth OPENING HOURS
exhibition for foreign visitors. It is my with glass windows, says Sigrur. specialists alike. Weve looked at diverse generation of Michelsen watchmakers have a The Heritage House
favourite because visitors can walk into topics such as the health and diet of ancient shop in Reykjavik where they sell their own Open 13-19, 10th June-26th August
Glaumbr Farm
the building and explore each one of the The Sum is Greater than the Parts populations, settlement development, the quality brand-name watches.
Open 9-18, 1st June-10th September
rooms and its contents, says Sigrur Research plays an important role at the history and craft of turf building and the
Sig u r a rdt t i r, t he c h ie f c u r ator of Skagaf jrur Heritage Museum. We history and development of horse-gear to Look at the Polar Bear Glaumbr SHV
Skagafjrur Heritage Museum. have a wide range of expertise in different name but a few things, says Sigrur. A stuffed 2 metre tall polar bear in a glass
fields. Theres a special department which cage greets visitors at the Heritage House Glaumbr 551 Saurkrkur
The Curators Favourites is dedicated specifically to preservation, Four generations of watchmakers in Saurkrkur. Visitors love looking at +354 453 6173
The Glaumbr turf farmhouse represents the restoration and research. Our research is The Heritage House in Saurkrkur it, especially the children, says Sigrur. bsk@skagafjordur.is

final stage in the evolution of the Icelandic primarily archaeological and historical is another one of Sigrurs favourite The 20 year-old male polar bear on display www.skagafjordur.is

turf farmhouse, an evolution that is unique in nature, which ref lects the interest exhibitions within the museum. The swam to Iceland from Greenland in June

212 213
North Iceland

Light in the North

A longer tour consists of three day trips
from Hlar, one slightly lighter one while

Hlar Keeps History Alive

the other two are invigorating walks to
the neighbouring Grasrdalshnjkur and

H lars small population belies its

importance in Icelandic history. With
nine centuries of history, it would need days
the college. It is a popular stop for travelling
Icelanders, whether for accommodation, the
swimming pool, the church, the Icelandic
Hlabyra mountains.
After the walks, hikers get the chance
to relax stiff muscles in the geothermally
to delve into its past and its achievements. Horse History Centre or the restaurant. heated swimming pool and enjoy the fi ne
Christianitys early efforts at instilling a Small, fully equipped cottages and rooms are wining and dining at Hlar.
strong educational spirit began with a Latin available to rent year round and can house 100
school a Cathedral school, continuing in its people in the summer. A campsite is serenaded The Restaurant Under the Mountain
small university of about 250 students today. by a chorus of birdsong whilst sheltered by trees Undir Byrdunni, a restaurant meaning Under
Icelands first printing press was brought to protecting guests from the wind. the Mountain, provides a summer buffet and
Hlar to print Bibles and books for the nation. local specialities like Hlableikja, made from
Until the unification of the bishoprics in Combine Exercise and Relaxation locally-caught arctic char. Coffee is served
1798, Hlar was the bishops seat for North Exploring the various hiking routes around throughout the day and the lunch, dinner and
Iceland. Its church has featured prominently Hlar is especially popular. Hiking tours grill menus attract visitors from a wide radius,
in its history and is traced to 1106. The are organised from Hlar that include as it is a popular restaurant all year round.
current church, built in 1763, houses relics accommodation, food, driving, access to ASF
Hlar
from its famous past. swimming pool and guiding.
For example, a one day tour consists Hlar 551 Saurkrkur
A Haven of History, Beauty and Culture of walking an old route over the heath of +354 455 6333
Set deep in a remote and beautiful historic valley, Heljardalur. This route used to be the main hildur@holar.is

surrounded by forested hills, lives a community cross-over from Eyjafjrur and Akureyri to www.holar.is

of 200 people along with students and staff of the bishops seat and school at Hlar.

214 215
North Iceland

Make Friends in History A Dream Come True

include a breakfast buffet.
Htel Varmahl is ideal for conferences

Icelands Oldest Hotel Takes You to a Bygone Era Htel Varmahl - from Dream to Reality
and special occasions with the restaurant
catering to t he unique needs of each

M a rlene Die t r ic h a nd Ic el a nd s
current president have something
in common. Both have stayed at Hotel
Sleep in an Icelanders Room
Te n r o om s n a me d a f t e r pr om i ne nt
Icelanders have double beds, wardrobes,
O nce there was a little girl who lived
next to a big, beautiful hotel. She
watched the people come and go from Htel
Filled from the Food Chest group and the hotel comfortably sleeping
The dining room that Svanhildur once almost forty people.
peered into as a girl now serves dishes
Tindastll, Icelands oldest hotel. Built Tudor furniture, and a private bathroom. Varmahl in awe. One day, she sneaked using game or livestock brought in by her
in 1884 and restored in 2000, Hotel Deluxe rooms feature added comforts over to the post office with some friends husband and brother-in-law. Smoked goose
Tindastll has the look and feel of its past such as a DVD player and small sitting and pretended to mail a letter so that she carpaccio, wrapped around small scoops of
with much of the original wood still intact area. Two separate summer homes are Meet in a Relaxing Atmosphere could get a closer look. Peering through date chutney arranged on a bed of lettuce
and the decor made to match. available for families or friends to rent. On Hotel Tindastlls ground floor is an old the window, she saw a huge dining room grown at a nearby greenhouse, piques salty
fashioned tavern with ample room for guests and people happily eating their meals and and sweet taste buds. Warm rhubarb cake
to relax with a drink. A hot tub, made with celebrating a special occasion. Someday, she with vanilla ice cream and mango rhubarb
stones found on the shores of Skagafjrur promised herself, this place will be mine.
with water set at 39C, can be accessed from
either the tavern or dining room. Owning the Dream
Hotel Tindastll serves a buff et break- Th e girl, Svanhildur Plsdttir, has now
fast each day at a long dining room table, grown into the woman who owns and
encouraging a friendly atmosphere where manages the hotel. I a lways saw the
guests can get to know their host as well potential for transformation, Svanhildur
as their fellow guests. rec a lls, smiling at her good for tune.
Htel Tindastll KB I grew up just across the street a nd
dreamt of making this hotel my own.
Lindargata 3 550 Saurkrkur Svanhildur has worked hard to transform
+354 453 5002 Hotel Varmahl into her own, down to
sml@simnet.is the minute details such as which colour of
www.hoteltindastoll.com
flower to place on the table.

SLAND

An Enchanting Vision for All

Svanhildurs enthusiasm and knowledge
of the area aids guests in discovering
hiking paths that lie just up the sloping
h i l l s su r rou nd i ng Htel Va r m a h l .
chutney ends the meal with a melding Tree- c overed pat h s prov ide ple a sa nt
of local and exotic. The menu belongs to hiking on windy days, while short, yet
Skagafjrurs food chest, an effort by rewarding walks are said to reveal nine
Bakkat-Btafjr restaurants to use food that is around them churches standing tall on Skagafjrurs
rather than looking far from home. Summer horizon on a clear day and will enchant
dishes will focus on shrimp, cod, local visitors to Htel Varma hl, just as it
cheese and/or lamb. enchanted its owner years ago.
Htel Varmahl KB
Three-Star Comfort
Each of the nineteen rooms at Htel 560 Varmahl
Varmahl has an en suite bathroom, +354 453 8170
television, alarm clock, and hair dryer. info@hotelvarmahlid.is
www. hotelvarmahlid.is
Its three-star rating ensures that nothing
will be lacking and all overnight stays

216 www.bakkaot.com - Phone: 354 453 8245 / 354 453 8099 217
North Iceland

Far From Home

The Icelandic Emigration Centre Links Past and Present
disasters, such as earthquakes and volcanic
eruptions, led to entire villages fleeing the
fallout and resettling in countries where
In w i nter, g roups have t he added natures violent forces were less volatile.

A Boutique Lifestyle in the North

advantage of experiencing the Northern
Lights, winter sports in the area while I mmigration is often viewed from an
outside perspective, which follows
and the United States. It is estimated
that the equivalent of another Iceland, The Journey

A Tranquil Setting for a Beautiful Break at Lnkot

enjoying the seasonal foods. i m m ig ra nt s live s a s t he y bec ome 300,000 people with Icelandic heritage, Each room in the Emigration Centre
All the reviews on TripAdvisor.com rate established once arriving in a new country, live scattered across North America. tracks different stages of the emigrants

T he northern region of Skagafjrur is

famous for a number of things. The Food
Chest concept, created at Lnkot and used all
restaurant has earned a name for delicious both the hotel itself and the restaurant as 100%
meals with the addition of flowers and herbs. excellent but nothing can match the personal
The hotel itself has six rooms for between enjoyment of this beautiful experience.
rather than seeing the reasons for leaving
their homeland. Pioneering Icelanders left
for faraway lands in pursuit of prosperity
over the area, encourages sustainability and 1720 guests. This makes it a perfect ASF or a ne w a d ve nt u r e . T he Ic e l a nd ic
Lnkot
the use of locally grown vegetables and locally location for incentive groups wanting Emigration Centre in Hofss tells stories
sourced foods, such as game, ptarmigan, duck, an unusual get-away together, though Lnkoti 566 Hofss of emigration from Iceland during its
geese and fish like arctic trout. individual travellers have found it just as +354 453 7432 height from 1870 until 1914.
At the cosy boutique hotel at Lnkot, inspiring. It is intentionally kept small lonkot@lonkot.com

they have taken the concept a step further. and personal and has just reopened after a www.lonkot.com
Poignant Mail
Using the slow cooking method, the bucolic complete renovation. Th e voices invoked through records and
letters mailed back home tell the perils

Dine in the Danish Era

of life in a new land. Most fared well
with easily acquired land parcelled out

Delicious Food, Delightful Views at Slvk in Hofss

to any newcomers, but some saw all of
t heir child ren perish in la nd s where

N ext door to the Icelandic Emigration

Centre in Hofss, in a beautifully
restored 19 th century wooden building, is
Renovated History
Hofss is one of the oldest trading centres
in Iceland. Recently, many of the houses
they lacked stronger links like those left
behind in Iceland. Most of the immigrants Poverty and Class
settled in North A merica, setting up Pove r t y pr ompt e d m a s s e m i g r a t ion
journey from Icela nd. Follow ing t he
reasons for departure are rooms recreated
the Slvk restaurant and caf. su r rou nd i ng t he h a rbou r h ave be en communities throughout parts of Canada from Iceland, with people often looking to resemble the hold of a ship that took
renovated, giving the village back the to e sc ape c ond it ions close to feud a l t he Ic e l a nder s to t hei r ne w home s .
spirit of the trading centre of bygone days. servitude. Numerous people had no land Initially, ships were packed with people,
Slvk was the home of the agent for the and worked for large farms owned by the sleeping head to toe in cramped quarters
Danish monopoly and previously stood in wealthier classes. The emigrants made that they frequently shared with animals.
Grafars, which was a trading centre from up approx imately one qua r ter of t he The final section of the museum displays
1835-1915. It was moved to Hofss and entire population and their difficult lives photos and letters written by Icelanders
erected in its current location in 1920. made leaving an easier decision. Starting detailing their lives in new countries.
out fresh in countries where land was
Fresh Food at its Best plentiful and class distinctions negligible Finding Family
Its terrace, overlook ing the charming allowed poor emigrants a chance to free People of Icela ndic descent c a n even
harbour of Hofss, is a lovely place to themselves from the rigid social mores of t rac e t heir herit a ge by t a l k ing to
sit and enjoy the wonderful cuisine of open every day, all day long in summer, Icelands lower classes. museum staff who have access to many
Dagmar sds or va ldsdttir: freshly off ering a full menu and she is happy to genealogical records from Iceland and
caught cod and trout, mountain lamb open for groups of 4 or more in winter. Vagaries of Nature settlement areas in North America.
f r o m S k a g a f j r u r, c h i c k e n f i l l e t , KB The Icelandic Emigration Centre links harsh KB
Slvk Emigration Centre
hamburger, lobster, soup and bread or winters with heavy pack ice that ruined
a coffee and cake. Vesturfarasetri 565 Hofss farms and diminished fi sh stocks to spikes Vesturfarasetri 565 Hofss
Dagmar has been running Slvk for +354 453 7930 in migration during the following years. +354 453 7935
about 10 years. She says the courses she has samstarf@visir.is Famine was always a threat, as the weather hofsos@hofsos.is

on the menu are her clients most popular www.hofsos.is often caused living conditions to teeter on www.hofsos.is

choices over past years. Th e restaurant is the brink of being uninhabitable. Natural

218 219
North Iceland

The Pearl of Drangey The Most Valuable Servant

that, even evil needs a place to live. After
pausing for a moment, the bishop agreed to
A Beach Guesthouse and a Birdwatchers Paradise leave one part of the island unblessed so that
evil spirits had somewhere to reside.
A Journey Back in Timewith a Treasured Animal

A n inspiring twenty minute drive up

a gravel road from Saurkrkur on
Route 748, brings you to Reykir, an isolated
Viggo and his son, Helgi Rafn, run the
guesthouse together today. Viggo learned its
secrets from his father, who is from Reykir
It was on the island that Grettir the Strong
took sanctuary for 3 years in the 11th century
after being made an outlaw, as described in
K nown worldwide for its famous five
gaits, remarkable strengthin spite
of its relatively humble sizeand mild
guesthouse in a spectacularly beautiful and built up its travel services. His father Grettirs saga. temperament, the Icelandic horse is quickly
spot. From here, there are many hiking used to take visitors out on his boat for a becoming a significant export product and
possibilities, including a hike up Tindastll, tour of Drangey, where puffi ns and many Relax in the Pools and Guesthouse trademark for this little country. But long
the mountain that towers over Reykir, to the other birds mingle amongst the craggy Heading back to the guesthouse, visitors before it became sought-after outside the
magical stone in the lake. cliffs; a tradition that Viggo and Helgi Rafn will f ind two natural hot pools called coasts of Iceland, the nationals recognised
continue with 3-hour, guided boat trips, an Grettislaug, named after Grettir. Fed from its wonderful characteristics and have
unmissable addition to your holiday. a hot spring, they are 38C, so a dip in the commonly referred to it through the ages
pool can quickly take away chills from as the farmers most valuable servant.
Drangey: The Food Chest the wind or soothe tired feet after a days Considering the importance of the horse in
Drangey rises steeply out of the fjord 180 hiking. Next to the hot pot is a small pond the often harsh surroundings and difficult
metres high. Its flat top is covered with grass where horned grebes, small red-headed conditions Icelanders have had to survive in,
and, with its steep nesting cliffs, is one of the birds that build f loating nests, usually it is not surprising to find an entire museum
most famous birdwatching sites in Iceland. swim. The horned grebe is relatively scarce dedicated to it. The Icela ndic Horse
In times past, when famine was over the worldwide, but is plentiful in northern History Centre at Hlar in Hjaltadalur is a
country, Drangey was called Skagafjrurs Iceland. Following Viggos directions, captivating museum that both educates and You then stamp it with the centres seal and
Food Chest. So many different varieties of down the beach, past driftwood and over entertains its visitors. guided through the exhibition and thereby send it off to your loved ones. The centre is,
birds are to be found there that today it is rocks, small, glittering pebbles can be T he mu s e u m, r i g ht ly sit u ate d i n given the opportunity to ask questions at its core, an educational institution for
truly a birdwatchers paradise. found littering the beach under the cliff s Skagafjrur, a region famous for its superb and chat. The exhibition is actually set research and communication of knowledge
where crashing waves have smoothed them. breeding farms that continuously produce in an old barn and guests are allowed to about the Icelandic horse and as such,
A Place of Evil Spirits and Outlaws Looking up, the island of Drangey appears horses of great excellence, focuses on touch all the objects. In addition, there is accepts donations from those interested in
Locals used to believe that evil creatures close enough to reach out and touch. communicating how closely intertwined the plenty of reading material, film footage and supporting their work.
lived on the island because many men Drangeyjarferir KB Icelandic horse is with the nations history. It photographs to make the experience as vivid Icelandic Horse History Centre KB
plunged to their deaths trying to gather gives an animated and interesting look not as possible. Guests also get to visit a nearby
eggs and hunt the birds that lived there. Fellstni 1 550 Saurkrki only into the past but also into the life of the barn to meet the Icelandic horse in person Hlar Hjaltadal 551 Saurkrki
According to legend, one of the bishops at +354 821 0090 common workman and the livelihood of the and can even mail a letter the way people +354 455 6345
Hlar, Gumundur the Good, came to bless drangey@fjolnet.is people. In the spirit of traditional Icelandic did when horses were used by postmen. sogusetur@sogusetur.is

the island and encountered an evil spirit. www.drangeyjarferdir.is hospita lit y, the museum places much You write the letter with a feather pen and www.sogusetur.is

When confronted, the spirit mournfully said emphasis on personal service. Visitors are are taught to fold it in the custom of old.

220 221
 Outdoor Life to the Full
Anyone who loves the outdoors will find all they wish for in Fjallabygg
Y ou would think that, as you get closer to The longer days make other activities

Siglufjrur lafsfjrur the North Pole, all you would see is snow
and desolation. In winter, possiblyonly
that just makes the snow sports all the more
exciting with awesome ski slopes, skating and
both possible and really enjoyablelike
taking midnight sailing trips across the
A rctic Circle or wha lewatching from
lafsfj rur. Fishing whether from the
snowmobilesand fishing through the ice. harbour piers, on the lakes, in the rivers
Fjallabygg is almost as far north as you and streams or out on the seais also very
can go. You feel like youre at the end of popular. Many visitors like to combine
the world. Yet here, above Akureyri, the hiking, sailing, fishing or boating trips
towns of lafsfjrur and Sigulfjrur together, getting the most out of their days.
are alive with activity year round. They There are two 9-hole golf courses, where museums like the Herring Museum, the Folk
merged as one county in 2006 and, when you can play under the summer midnight Music Centre (with many activities for all
the tunnel linking them opened in 2010, sun and two swimming pools, with jacuzzis ages and tastes), the Poetry Museum (where
travel became much easier. to relax in after a days hike. you can buy poetry old and new), Natural
There are plenty of different types of History Museum (specialising in the birdlife
Lively Activities and Long Days accommodation and restaurants, fast-food and of the area), Art Museum (with probably
With the spring, everything is completely cafs with live music in both towns to suit every the best private collection in the country)
different. The birds know it and fly in by taste as the people here love to enjoy life. and festivals such as the Music festival in
drovesfollowed by the experienced bird Siglufjrur in the first week of July.
watchers and photographers. The beautiful Centre of Culture
nature opens up to the hiking community Fjallabygg has made up for their relative Fjallabygg is a vibrant
through a multitude of different marked isolation by investing in cultural activities. community in which you will find a
hikes, with various degrees of difficulty. There is a rich heritage of award-winning warm welcome.
There is an excellent map produced by the Fjallabygg ASF
University of Hlar. The countryside is
breath-taking in its beauty and is very easily Grnugata 24 580 Siglufjrur
accessible from the two towns. Its a landscape +354 464 9100
of mountains and valleys, streams, waterfalls none

and hidden meadows, lakes and black sand www.fjallabyggd.is

beaches, with picturesque vistas at every turn.

223
North Iceland

Hannes Boy Caf & Kaffi Rauka

Lively weekends and cheerful surroundings at the End of the World red building next door is your place. Th is

S iglufjrur feels like it is as far north Hannes Boy is the bright yellow building is a lively placeespecially on Friday and

The Klondike of the North

as you can go. This former herring right on the harbour, just a few feet from Saturday nights, with its live bands. Its a
centre is set in a beautiful fjord and is a the boats, landing their fresh fish. Inside, the great spot for lunch, for getting to know the
very popular place to hike from and enjoy woodbeamed restaurant, with its lantern local people and enjoying their lifestyle.
the extraordinary birdlife and nature. The wall lights, wooden tables and chairs, is Rauka H Hvanneyri Guesthouse Invites You to Experience the Essence of Iceland
pristine beauty of the landscape is matched
only by the atmosphere of the town, where
there is much to see and do.
bright and cheerful. The menu includes fish
and lamb and youre guaranteed a delicious
meal in the inspiring atmosphere of this
Grnugata 5 580 Siglufjrur

+354 467 1550

W h i le st aple tou rist at t rac t ion s
ca n be rewa rding a nd of ten
ea sily accessed, a ll too ma ny visitors
a mou nted to 20% of Ic ela nd s tot a l
exports during the peak years, leading the
town to be dubbed the Klondike of the
When you have built up a good appetite warm and welcoming fishing town. raudka@raudka.is leave the countr y without ever having North. The herring eventually disappeared
www.raudka.is
in the nature, you know you can dine at one If youd rather have something lighter, experienced the true essence of Iceland. but the people of Sigluf jrur stayed
of the best restaurants outside Reykjavk. the Kaffi Rauka in the equally bright You wont get any closer to it than in a behind, including the family in Hvanneyri
genuine Icelandic f ishing town, as the Guesthouse. Th e patriarch of the family
proprietors of Guesthouse Hvanneyri in had in fact worked in Siglufjrurs fi shing
Allinn restaurant specialises Siglufjrur Bay will attest. industry in one way or the other since he
in Icelandic home cooking K a t r n S i f A n d e r s e n , on e o f t h e was six years old right up until the last fi sh
owners of t he fa mily-run g uest house processing plant was closed this year.
and pizzas. It is situated in a says that, while Siglufj rur may not be
beautifully restored house as well known as many of Icelands other Family Affair coming back. In fact I just received baby
overlooking Siglufjrurs main attractions, those who do make their way Recognising that herring was far from gifts for my newborn baby from one of our

Aalbakar square. It is reasonably priced there never regret it. In fact many who the only thing Siglufjrur had to offer, customers. I guess it doesnt get any more

Allinn
intend on staying only one night wind up the family has lovingly set up a much- personal than that, says Katrn.
Bakery is by the main square of Siglufjrur and suits people of all ages. extending their stay for several days such needed service to Siglufjrurs visitors in The town itself has a lot to offer in itself.
Great variety of freshly baked breads, buns, is the beauty of the Trllaskagi peninsula, the form of a Guesthouse. It is located on Just by interacting with the friendly folk
sandwiches, pastries and cakes along with
on which Siglufjrur is located. the main street and is thus within arms of Siglufj rur, you see a slice of Iceland
a lunch menu with soups and pasta.
reach of the towns restaurants, shops and you perhaps wont see at more popular
Aalgata 30 580 Siglufjrur +354 467 1111
Aalgtu 28 580 Siglufiri +354 4671720 The Herring Era baker y, making it an ideal location to tourist spots. In addition, the people of
In the mid-19 th century, Siglufj rur was set up base during a stay in Trllaskagi. Siglufjrur are particularly proud of their
the primary location of herring fishing T he s e le c t ion of a c c om mo d at ion i s museums: The Herring Era Museum and
during the so-called Herring Era. The surprisingly wide, ranging from dorms the Folk Music Centre, where you can delve
amount of herring that was landed in to lavish suites, something which Katrn into Icelands folk music heritage, thanks
Sigluf jrur was so substantial that it and her family are especially proud of to Rev. Bjarni orsteinsson, a one-time
offering something to fit each and every resident of Siglufjrur, who diligently

The Herring Museum customers taste and budget. collected and documented hundreds of folk
songs from the year 1880 onwards.
The Herring Era Museum in Siglujrur is Returning Friends Hvanneyri KB
As you can imagine when dealing with a
an award-winning museum bringing to life family-run business, Guesthouse Hvanneyri Aalgata 10 580 Sigluri
the glory days of Icelands herring ishing places special emphasis on giving their +354 467 1506
industry in three different buildings. customers as personable and friendly service hvanneyri@simnet.is

as possible. We feel as if our customers www.hvanneyri.com

Snorragtu 16 580 Siglufir +354 467 1604 safn@sild.is www.sild.is
appreciate this and many of them keep

224 225
North Iceland

More Iceland for less money

Singing and Silence

exhibitions, museums historical places of
interest and, of course, bird watching and more.
All that breaks the stillness is the song of the birds Food in Many Forms

I n the early Spring, birds arrive in the North

from all parts of the world. Shedding their
winter drabness, they are dressing in the
rooms with bath, and 8 Finnish-style log
cabins, accommodating 56 people each.
The self-contained holiday cottages are
Let Brimnes Htels in-house chef whip up a
quick bite or a 3-course meal in the restaurant
or share a bottle of wine from the hotels
finery of their summer colours for the mating perfect for families or groups and include extensive wine list whilst relaxing in the hot-
season while the days are growing longer and a lounge, kitchenette, bath, ground-f loor tub. Perhaps youd like to try your hand at
trout fishingthe hotel will supply you with
all that you needincluding the boat. Blue Lagoon Schedule Blue Lagoon to Reykjavikk
12:30 / 14:00* / 16:00
00 / 18:00 / 20:30 * Via
V Keflavik
f
flavik Airport Please book in advance. To airport passengers;

Four Seasons for All Pickup at hotel in Reykjavik upon request Blue Lagoon to Keflavik Airport Be ready in front of your hotel. we keep your luggage during
The beauty of this area is not confined 09:00 / 10:30 / 12:30 / 14:45 / 16:45 12:30 / 14:00 / 21:00** ** From 15. June 15. Sept. Pickup can take up to 30 min. your Blue Lagoon visit.
to a single season. Each season presents a
completely different appearance and offers
different activities. No matter when you visit, The South Coast - Skgafoss - Vk Grand Golden Circle Golden Circle Afternoon
there is always plenty to do. In winter, when
Our tour takes us along the south shore and on to the Highlights visited: The crater Keri, the farming districts in Highlights visited: The national park Thingvellir,
summer approaches. The lake is as clear as bedroom and sleeping loft for the kids, the mountains catch the suns glow, painting charming village of Vk. Highlights on this tour: Waterfalls the south, Faxi waterfall and the spectacular Geysir. The the waterfall Gullfoss, the spectacular Geysir and the
glass in the stillness of the evening twilight, as well as a cosy, private hot-tub on each a surrealistic picture, you can go skiing Skgafoss and Seljalandsfoss. The basalt columns at waterfall Gullfoss, the national park Thingvellir, including volcanic crater Keri.
broken only by the birdsong. veranda, where you can relax over a bottle or snowmobiling. That jacuzzi is quite an sandy beach of Reynis- fjara and the glacier Slheima- the Rift valley and the Rock of law which was the site of
jkull, where you can touch the ice. We drive along the the first Viking parliament. Pick up time: Tue/Thu/Sat/Sun at 12:30
We a re high in t he Nor t h, on t he of wine from the hotels extensive wine list. experience afterwards, watching the Northern volcano Eyjafjallajkull, last eruption in 2010. Time for lunch at Geysir (not incl. in price). Duration: 5-6 hours
Trllaskagi Peninsula at the Brimnes Htel Whether you are relaxing or involved in Lights dance across the sky. In spring, watch Professional english guidance
and Bungalows, located on the banks of the exertions of an active sport, the hotels the birds arriving and photograph the newly Pick up time: Mon/Wed/Fri at 08:00 Pick up time: Daily at 08:00
Duration: 10 hours Duration: 8 hours
lafsfjrur. The hotel offers 11 double restaurant offers everything from quick hatched chicks as they struggle from their Professional english guidance Professional english guidance
snacks to full course meals. shells. Summer is full of life and activities that Please notice: You can join The Blue Lagoon evening tour after arrival.

carry through the autumn as the changing

Get the Most from the Area colours bring a beauty all their own to the area. Explore the unique volcanic and arctic nature of Iceland
Hotel manager, A xel Ptur sgeirsson, Brimnes Htel ASF
is always on hand to advise and organise
sightseeing and activities in the region: Bylgjubygg 2 625 lafsri
boat trips, trout fishing on the lake, whale- +354 466 2400
watching, mountain hiking, kayaking, hotel@brimnes.is

diving, horse riding, golf, river rafting, skiing www.brimnes.is

and snowmobiling in the winter season, art

226 Tel: +354 511 2600 E-mail: bustravel@bustravel.is bustravel.is

 Enjoy Akureyri on a Budget mid-August, an additional 12 rooms are

A Warm and Friendly Guesthouse that has All You Need

available which are ideal for families or
small groups. They consist of 3 apartments,

S lur Guesthouse is popular with budget-

conscious travellers to Akureyri. It has 8
rooms with both made-up beds and sleeping
pool, the beautiful botanical gardens and a comprising 4 bedrooms each, again, with
grocery shop. If youd rather not walk, the self-catering facilities in every apartment.
free bus service will take you down to the Slur Guesthouse ASF

bag accommodation. With two kitchens, one town for quick access to all the amenities,
on each floor, it offers self-catering and has a or on a tour around the town. runnarstrti 93 600 Akureyri
laundrette. There is free wireless internet and TV. Slur is open all year-round, so it makes a +354 461 1160
Set on the hillside next to the campsite, great choice for skiers taking a winter break sulur@islandia.is

overlooking the town and the fjord, it is to enjoy the slopes above the town. During www.sulurguesthouse.is

close to the geothermally heated swimming the summer months, from 1st of June to

Where Fitness Folk Eat The nice thing about this restaurant is
Besti bitinns fresh food is a hit with health-loving people that you can sit in a friendly, comfortable

C lose to Akureyris walking street and

the harbour is a good location for
people who want to get their meal quickly
Healthy food and prices dont compete at mosphere a nd m i x a nd match t he
O f c ou r s e , s ome p e ople a r e not s o ingred ient s to you r ow n t a ste when
concerned about their hea lth but just ordering. We liked that and will be joining
but eat something fresh and healthy. w a nt t o e a t s o m e t h i n g t h a t t a s t e s the regulars whenever were in Akureyri.
Besti bitinn is well known for its fish and good and isnt expensive, so the usual ASF
Besti Bitinn
chips, so I decided to try, too. It surpassed carbonated drinks are also available with
what Id heard about it - fresh, firm but their meals. Whether they realise it or Skipagata 2 600 Akureyri
soft and full of f lavour. My partner tried not, though, they are eating f ish fresh +354 578 6400
the chicken salad and I saw why so many from the boats that just landed or the skistjarnan@internet.is

people in the health and fitness community chicken thats never been frozen or lost on facebook

Akureyri
in Akureyri come to eat here. its food value in the cooking.

229
North Iceland

The Deep Valley in the North

hours, every day of the week from 8th June to
1st September each year. They also offer custom
In Eyjafjararsveit you can take part in the farm life
horseback riding trips for groups of any variety.

A ll is not always what it seems in

Iceland. A town is not merely a
town and the countryside is not either
Raw food and farm ice cream
The real treat in Eyjafjararsveit has got
to be Holtsel, offering their very own
wilderness or farmland. The valley south farmhouse ice cream, labelled Holtsels-
of Akureyri in the north of Iceland is one Hnoss. The ice creams are made from cream,
of those areas difficult to defi ne. It has the milk, yoghurt, full-fat, low-fat, non-fat and
atmosphere of farmland, offers a variety of sorbets. Something delicious for everyone.

Bsar Guesthouse in Grmsey

tourist attractions and activities any town A short distance away is Kaffi K or Caf
would be proud of and accommodation Cow, a bar specialising in whisky along with

Where Everybody Knows Your Name

ranging from camping sites to lovely hotels. a vast selection of beer and, of course, coffee
The Eyjafjarar river runs through this and quite different cakes, like their liquorice
narrow valley, which is surprisingly long at
about 50 kilometres. The farms are mostly
located along the riverbank with the road
When planning a holiday with your family
and friends in Iceland, the many guesthouses
in Eyjafjararsveit are a real treat. There is
cake. A truly original place.
T he Si lva veget a ria n re st au ra nt is
s t e a d i ly b e c om i n g one of t he mo s t
F or those used to living in metropolitan
areas or even small towns, a visit to
Grmsey will surely change the way you
our community centre is sometimes even
booked the whole week through and when
its someones birthday the whole island is
crisscrossing the river via a number of Brnalaug Guesthouse, a bungalow situated popular raw food restaurants in Iceland, feel about your neighbours. Grmsey is invited, says Ragnhildur.
bridges, making access to everything on 700 metres from the main road providing offering a good vegetarian and raw food a tiny island of only two square miles, Activities in Grmsey are plentiful. You
offer to the tourist quick and easy. absolute peace and quiet. Further north is menu, fresh shakes and juices. located 25 miles north of Iceland and has a have the option of going sea angling, which drive around the island and introduce them
ngulsstair, where the old barn has been W hen travelling in this area in late population of less than a hundred. The small can be arranged in Bsar. You can spend the to our daily lives says Ragnhildur.
Comfortable guesthouses renovated and now houses a tiny hotel where summer, try not to miss the handicrafts population ensures that everyone has a share day bird watching as the island hosts various Bsar offers 18 beds in eight different rooms,
Eyjafjararsveit has, of course, an excellent all rooms come with en suite bathrooms, and celebration held each year in August. in the communitys responsibilities and that species of birds. If in doubt as to where the either made up or for sleeping bags. Breakfast
outdoor swimming pool with hot tubs and the lovely Lamb Inn restaurant. Nearby, is As you drive around Eyjafjararsveit, everyone knows everybody. best spot is, simply ask the locals who will is on offer, as well as full meals if requested.
fun slides, a lovely playground for youngsters, Hll Guesthouse, an apartment with two be sure to visit the various old churches For example one inhabitant, Ragnhildur gladly point them out to you. Then of course, The guesthouse is located next to the Arctic
museums, cafs, an ice-cream factory with an double rooms and all necessary facilities and in the area, each with its own specia l Hjaltadttir, shares the duties of being the you can just explore the entire island by foot, Circle and you only have to take three steps
ice cream bar, a vegetarian restaurant which Uppsalir Guesthouse which can accommodate history and architecture. manager of local guesthouse, Bsar, operator see the church, chat with the fishermen at the outside the guesthouse to cross it. From 12th
also offers a raw food menu, horse rental up to ten individuals. Uppsalir and Hrafnagil And last, but not least, do not miss of a small banking branch in Grmsey, pier (though not all of them speak English June until 20th August, flights depart for
farms, river-fishing and two golf courses. Guesthouse, 12 kilometres south of Akureyri, the Smmunasafni, an original and fun airport manager and chairwoman for the but theyll welcome you anyway) or drop by Grmsey daily at 13:00 from Akureyri. Prior to
invite their guests to take part in their museum containing one mans collection local womens club. In order to live happily at the community centre and see if there is a that time, flights depart three times a week. A
beautiful farm life, which is especially loved of odd and everyday pieces. A day spent in in such a tight-knit community, you have bingo game or a lottery going on. ferry also leaves from Dalvk at 9:00 am three
by city youngsters. Familyfriendly Hrafnagil Eyjafjararsveit is a day well spent. to be 100% content with yourself and be R agnhildur says isla nd visitors a re times a week (Mon, Wed, Fri).
Guesthouse offers five large rooms and Eyjafjararsveit SS generous to the community. We have an uniformly welcomed to the island and Bsar
facilities for babies and children. extremely active social life and there is commonly invited to join in on whatever
Then there is the Leifsstair, one of the Sklatr 9 601 Akureyri really no other alternative than to take part events the locals are celebrating. We like to Bsum 611 Grmsey
loveliest hotels in Iceland. An hotel with a view, +354 463 0600 in it. We tend to celebrate every occasion we think of this environment as more personal +354 467 3103
lovely verandas and its very own golf course. esveit@esveit.is can think of and most people I know from than in many crowded populations. For gagga@simnet.is

Ktur is a Horse Rental at Kaupangsbakkar, www.eyjafjardarsveit.is the mainland tell me that the social life example, I never leave my guests unattended none

offering guided tours ranging from 1 to 3 here is much more energetic. For example and I often take guests staying at Bsar for a

230 231
North Iceland

T he do z e n i n h a bit a nt s i n 178 6 ,
clinging to the side of Icela nd s
longest fj ord, Eyjafj rur, probably never
See the Sights
Akureyri is also a service base for many of the
most important tourist destinations in North
ima gined t heir brave strug gle wou ld Iceland. From here, you can visit Mvatn,
ultimately produce a town of 18,000 Dettifossthe most powerful waterfall
people with all the services of a major city. in Europe, the islands of Hrsey, with its
Akureyri is not as big as any of the worlds powerful healing energy and Grmsey,
cities but it provides all the features and services straddling the Arctic Circle, see volcanos and

The
expected of a big city in a very compact form, boiling mud pools and, in fact, reach all the
so that everything is within a short distance. pearls of the north in under 2 hours.

Northern
Take, for instance, winter activities
like skiing. The family-friendly slopes are Easy Access
under 10 minutes from the airport and the Flights from both Keflavk international and

Playground
hotels. Likewise the horseriding tours, boat Reykjavk airports take just 40 min. Scheduled
trips, bird watching, shoppingto name buses leave from Reykjavik Bus Station. There
a feware all so close, you can almost are numerous tours, some of which go through
touch them. You name it, its close-by. the highlands during summer months. The
The weather, with its combination of bus service is free in town.
crisp, dry snow and Northern Lightsat
the peak of their cycle this wintermakes a
Akureyri, the Base to Reach All the Northern Sights and Highlights holiday here memorable.

Cultural Centre of the North

When it comes to culture, Akureyri has it
all: museums, art galleries, international
exhibitions, conference facilities, music
concerts of all genres, opera, theatres and
cinemas showing the latest films.
It has well over 20 restaurants, covering
both Icelandic and international cuisine, with
top chefs who create their own innovative
cuisine. Cafs, each with their individual
speciality abound, while local micro-
breweries and farms offering food tasting are
a fascinating addition to the food scene.
For groups and incentive tours, Akureyri
offers such a wide range of activities,
events and opportunities, maximising the
time available. There are a multitude of
tours covering every interest from flying to
caving, from fi shing to the Hidden People, Nat u ra l ly, e ver y com mon form of
walking to whale-watching. transport is available: car, bike, boat,
horse, ATV, plane rentals. Every type of
Sports of all kinds accommodation is also on hand, from 4-star
Sport activities are very popular in the hotels to camp sites.
North and many sports are represented in
this dynamic community. Akureyri has it all and an outgoing
The geothermallyheated swimming friendly welcome, too.
pools, with their hot pots and jaccuzzi are
openand very popularall year round. ASF
Akureyrarstofa
The Arctic Open Golf championship is
played on the most northerly 18-hole course Strandgata 12 600 Akureyri
in the world, just outside the city under +354 450 1050
snowcovered mountains and the midnight akureyrarstofa@akureyri.is

sun. You can hire clubs if you need them and www.visitakureyri.is

relax in the club house afterwards.

232 233
North Iceland

The Old Town

of Akureyri
One Hundred and Fifty Years Back in Time
T he town of Akureyri has been called the
capital of the north and rightly so, as it
serves as a centre for transport, services and
title as a township. The name Akureyri
however, dates back to the 15th century,
but it was in 1778 that the first dwelling
culture, connecting the north to the rest of was built. The oldest standing building
the country. Akureyri, however has a unique is Laxdalshs, built in 1795, which today
and distinctive character which makes it an houses a restaurant & caf that serves local
essential stop for anyone travelling north. The dishes. The Old Town is replete with old
core of its character can be found in the Old picturesque timber houses which give the
Town of Akureyri called Innbrinn. town its relaxed and charming ambiance.
Only a few minutes walk from the city
centre, the area is a monument to Akureyris History Captivated in Museums
culture and history. Many of the citys Fittingly, the Old Town is home to many
oldest houses have been preserved and museums. Nonnahs is the childhood home
today are homes to people, businesses, cafs of one of Icelands most celebrated writers, Jn
and museums, giving visitors a chance to Sveinsson, author of a series of books about
experience the towns rich history. The Old the adventures of a boy named Nonni, and
Towns location plays no small role in its translated into over 30 languages. Built in 1850,
charm as a cliff forms a natural border to it has been renovated into a museum dedicated
the north and the ocean to the east. to his life and worksa landmark in Akureyri.
The Museum of Akureyri is located in
Where the Past Meets the Present Akureyris first villa with an extensive garden
In recent years, steps have been taken to where forestry was started in 1899 and explains
secure the Old Towns legacy, both in terms why the city is so blessed with vegetation. The
in preservation and accessibility. Informative museum is dedicated to everyday life from
signpost s have rec ent ly been plac ed historic times to the present, and includes
throughout the Old Town giving visitors a art and photography displays.
chance to learn about life in a different era. Youll also find museums dedicated to
Hanna Rsa Sveinsdttir, at the Museum motorcycles, industry and aviation. A day in
of Akureyri, says it has been important to the Old Town visiting museums will thus
take these steps to preserve and maintain the leave you enlightened about almost every
Old Town, but at the same time, adapting facet of life in the north imaginable.
it to modern day life. In my mind, the
Old Town is a historical monument which The Best Ice Cream in all the Land?
connects the towns history to the present, Icelanders have a strange obsession with
making it completely unique, says Hanna ice cream and will bicker to no end about
Rsa. Weve managed to maintain the which shop has the best. Considered a
original street planning even though the strong contender by many is Brynja, the
Old Town has been inhabited all this time. shop in the Old Town, where ice cream
The townsfolk respect the towns history connoisseurs from all over the country stop
and when it comes to renovations and new by every time theyre in Akureyri.
buildings, it is always done with that in However you choose to spend your time, a
mind, says Hanna Rsa. visit to Akureyris Old Town it is well worth
Akureyri is now celebrating the 150 years your while, taking in the sights and going
that have passed since it was given its official just a little bit back in time. VAG

234 235
North Iceland

Winter Whale Watching

from Akureyri North Sailings Traditional Oak Fishing Boats Sail to the Whales

S tarting this winter, North Sailing goes

whale watching right from the centre
of the town of A kureyri. Interestingly
Get the Best of All Worlds
If youre visiting Iceland to enjoy the winter
sports activities and to see the Northern
below, the sturdy, well protected Nttfari
is the ideal vessel for the tours and its
success rate is very high. Take a look at the
but news spread quickly and their tours
became so popular that two more vessels
were renovated. The Haukur and then later
There is the option to combine a trip with
a 2-hour horse riding tour from Saltvk
Horse Centre, south of Hsavk.
Lunch or Dinner at the Harbour
Th e beautiful Gamli Baukur restaurant,
w it h it s l a rge ver a nd a s overlook i n g
enough, they are the f irst company to Lights, the capital of the North, Akureyri, is comments on TripAdvisor.com to get a feel The Hildur were fitted with traditional For the more adventurous, there is a Hsavk harbour, offers a great dining
off er scheduled trips from Akureyrijust the perfect place for you. In winter, Akureyri, for what to expect on the tours. The reviews equipment in the spirit of the 18th century 2-day Edge of the Arctic tour eating and experienc e, su rrou nded by ma rit ime
as they were the first to offer them from on Eyjafjrur, the longest fjord in Iceland, are overwhelmingly positive. shark schooners that used to fish off the sleeping on board, stopping off at Flatey memorabi l ia to c omplete you r tou r.
Hsavk 18 years ago. Theyre fi nding large provides the opportunity to see the families coasts of northern Iceland. All the boats and Grmsey islands. What food could With its fresh seafood, both local and
humpback whales in groups right in the of whales feeding close up whereas the bay at Bringing History Back to Life are outfitted to modern standards without be fresher than fish caught en route and international dishes, you couldnt ask for a
fjord just a short sail away. Hsavk, where North Sailing is ranked as the Sailing traditional Icelandic schooners used losing t he be aut y a nd cha rm of t he grilled on board! Eagle Air fl ies passengers better meal and, as the cherry on the cake,
Whale watching at any time is exciting, No. 1 attraction, is more open to the common to be almost a memory of the past until traditional oak wood fi nish. directly from Reykjavik airport to Hsavk it is a hot venue for live music.
to see these massive creatures surfacing cold northerly winds in the wintertime. brothers, Hrur and rni Sigurbjarnarson for this tour so if you have limited time, Norursigling ASF
and sometimes, jumping clear out of the The tour itself lasts a full three hours painstakingly restored a 20-ton oak vessel Summer Tours for all tastes you really get the most from your visit.
water close to the ship. Thousands of people and includes hot chocolate and local snack to its former glory and started taking During the summer months, there are up to 12 The ultimate is an 8-day tour, flying from Hafnarsttt 9 640 Hsavk
have taken photos but the experience of refreshments. Warm over suits, hats, gloves, visitors whale and puffin watching from the tours daily from Hsavk alone, not to mention Reykjavik airport to Greenland, sailing on +354 464 7272
seeing the whales is something that will blankets and raincoats are available in case of northern town of Hsavk. sailings from lafsfjrur and Akureyri in the schooner, Hildur, with treks inland to info@nordursigling.is

never be forgotten. It is amazing to get so any changes in weather. With a comfortable Their company, North Sailing, began Eyjafjrur fjord. The evening trips, sailing breathtaking views and a BBQ on the beach, www.nordursigling.is

close to them. viewing area on deck and a warm lounge in 1994 with one vessel, the Knrrinn, under the midnight sun are special! eating locally-prepared musk ox meat.

237 237
North Iceland

The Caf in the Flowers

beauties of the plants and trees that surround

A Hundred Years of Flowers

it. Unlike most cafs with just tables and

The newly opened caf brings refreshment to the Botanical Gardens couches, arm chairs and a low lounge table,
chairs to sit at, there are two lounge areas with

Akureyris Botanical Gardens has thousands of plants and trees

L ystigarurinn Akureyri is one of the
northernmost botanical gardens in
perennials that fulfil the demands of beauty
and hardiness. The garden also functions as
a gene bank for hardy plants suitable to the
A kureyris Botanical Gardens cele- side, the varnished brown wooden window making for a very congenial atmosphere.
brated their centennial anniversary in frames forming trunks and branches.
2012. In June, a new caf opened to provide Bask in the Beauty
the world. It was founded in 1912 by four weather conditions in Iceland. The Icelandic food and drinks to visitors to this beautiful Comfortable All Year Round Even though set high on the hill above the
of the most prominent ladies of Akureyri. Flora contains rather few species compared garden. Tall trees line the pathways, evidence These windows give a panoramic view of town, close to the hospital and the church that
They dreamed of creating an oasis where to other countries. There are around 500 that, even at such a high latitude, it is possible the gardens from the comfort of couches stands as a landmark over the town, the gardens
the townspeople could relax and enjoy the species at the moment and most of them are to grow here. The caf reflects these lovely and chairs inside the caf. Since it is open themselves are a tranquil spot, sheltered by
colours of spring and summer after the trials displayed in Akureyris Hortus Botanicus. trees in its large picture windows on either the whole year, visitors can enjoy the the trees from the worst of the winter winds.
and tribulations of the harsh island winters. Further, the general idea is for multiple use, changing seasons, whether sitting outside However, there is nothing more welcoming
Although the town council agreed to a public such as a seed-exchange, public information, in the sunshine or inside, sheltered from the than the lights of the caf after wandering the
park and provided money to start the creation, The park has been enlarged three times education and recreation. elements. A range of snacks and drinks are paths of the garden and the prospect of a nice,
the botanic section had to wait. It wasnt since 1912 and is now about 3.6 ha and lies Part of the ladies dream was to have a caf always available, making this a very enjoyable hot drink and snack, relaxing with friends at
opened until 1957. Today, there are about at 40-50 m altitude on Eyrarlandsvegur in the park but they did not live to see that spot to meet, to relax or simply to take in the one of the tables or lounge areas.
6,600 alien varieties growing in the garden in road near midtown. There are several aims part realised. Indeed, the townspeople had On the warm, sunny days though, you
beds and the nursery. A further 430 species of to the Botanical Gardens activity. The to wait a hundred years for the caf which dont really want to be inside and the caf
the native varieties are to be found there, with most important task is to provide northern finally opened in June this year. has a large patio where the tables and chairs
more being constantly added to the collection. Iceland in general with trees, shrubs and The park has been immensely popular are set so you can enjoy the ambience of the
right from the start, both with Icelanders and gardens, soak up the sun while enjoying your
foreign visitors. It is a tranquil and colourful coffee and cakes. A display of large photos
place, with wonderful aromas, a good caf of different flowers forms an attractive wind-
and exceptionally family friendly. break and backdrop to your conversation.
Lystigarur Akureyrar
SS Caf Bjrk ASF

Eyrlandsvegur 600 Akureyri Eyrarlandsvegi 30 600 Akureyri

+354 462 7487 +354 460 5600

bjorgvin@akureyri.is info@cafebjork.is
www.lystigardur.akureyri.is www.cafebjrk.is

238 239
North Iceland

The North Eats Thai

The Popular Krua Siam Restaurant Feeds Folk in Akureyri
W hat inspired experienced Thai cooks
and kitchen assistants to leave the
exotic lands of South East Asia to venture to
are all imported from Thailand, apart from
the fresh meat and vegetables. All the spices,
rice and noodles, all the special ingredients addition, K rua Siam offers a full f ive
the Land of the Vikings, I cannot imagine. that are uniquely Thai are brought in course lunch buffet every day between
But Im very glad they did. After opening directly from Thailand. However, the meat 11:30 and 13:30. Here, you can eat all
the Reykjavik food scene to their unique and vegetables are pure Icelandic and this is you like for the same good price.
blend of Thai ingredients and Icelandic what contributes to the delicious flavour in With a large range of dishes to choose
meats and vegetables, the intrepid cooks every meal. Its this special blend of Thai and from, you can choose different plates and eat
continued north to Akureyri. Icelandic foods that makes the food so special as the Thais eat in their homelandtaking

Pure and Natural

Established in 2007 and now under the and doubtless, contributes to its popularity. a piece from each of a number of different
same management as the Reykjavik Krua Thai food is best served fresh as its flavour dishes. Its a great way to eat as a family or a
Thai restaurant, it is easy to find Krua Siam is at its bestand thats how the Thai cooks group of friends.
opposite the famous Hof concert hall by here serve it, freshly prepared and cooked to North Icelands only Certified Organic Skin Care Producer
Akureyris harbour.

Set Apart
order on the spot.

Eat What You Like for Less

Drinks to go with it
Th ere are a number of wines and spirits
that go well with Thai food, so K rua
T he mou nt a ins reach h ig h above
North Icelands Eyjafjrur. With
the flowers and herbs gathered by hand on
All the products contain Omega 3 and 6
oils that store vitamins and are so vital to the
protection and nourishment of the skin. The
Besides the experienced Thai staff, what sets Bot h K r u a Sia m a nd K r u a T ha i a re Siam has a bar and stocks a wide range their slopes, Urtasmijan or the Herbal herbs that are used are known for their proven
these restaurants apart is that the ingredients k nown for their reasonable prices. In of alcoholic beverages along with juices Workshop creates the Sla range of pure positive effects on the skin and for healing.
and soft drinks. organic skin care oils, balms and creams.
Ic ela nd s pu re a i r a nd u npol luted Protect your skin from pollution
Catering to the Need soil provide the ideal conditions for the Todays lifestyles in polluted cities, make
The restaurant also provides Take Away and plants to grow slowly, thus increasing it important to look after your skin and
Home Delivery options, whether for one their potency. Sla products organic purity provides the
person, a party or a special event. However, best possible care. The product line is
if you are down by Akureyris harbour at Pure sources, pure process, pure product available online and from selected health
lunch or dinner time, Krua Siam is really The Herbal Workshop products are all and tourist shops. Your skin is vital to
the place to visit for the real Thai experience. produced by hand, without the use of your health, so protecting it makes sense.
Krua Siam ASF machinery. No chemical or petroleum base,
Urtasmijan ASF
artificial colourings or fragrances are used
Strandgtu 13 600 Akureyri in any of the productsjust pure herbal Fossbrekku, 601 Akureyri
+354 466 3800 oils and bees wax, with natural vitamin E +354 462 4769
kruasiam@kruasiam.is oil providing the anti-oxidant. Urtasmijan urtasmidjan@urtasmidjan.is
www.kruasiam.is imports high quality, expensive carrier oils, www.urtasmidjan.is

such as Moroccan oil and coconut butter.

240 241
North Iceland

A Perfect
Day in Hrsey Travel back in time on the Pearl of Eyjafjrur

sleep during the arctic nights, either in one of Holt, the Memorial Museum of Alda

H rsey, Icelands second largest island,

is in the middle of Eyjaf jrur.
With 200 inhabitants, it is part of the
the guesthouses: Jnatanhs, Mnukot (www.
visithrisey.is) or Brekka (www.brekkahrisey.
is), or at the islands camp site. There are
Halldrsdttir, shows a typical working-
class home from 1900 onwards, a story
of the old world meeting the new, with
municipa lit y of A kureyri a nd a lways numerous pleasant hiking trails and other furnishings, gadgets, handicraft embroidery
referred to as the Pearl of Eyjafjrur. types of tours are available by land or sea. and photographs of old times.
Visiting Hrsey is pure fun and makes an T he Tou rist of f ic e, loc ated in t he
inspiring day trip for groups or individuals. The Museum of Shark-Jrundur is open daily A Birdwatching Paradise
village is really cute and clean, as all the houses during the summertime. The island is known for its bird life, as about
are very old, though beautifully renovated and A l l book i ng s for ac c om mod at ion, 40 bird species nest there, the most abundant
painted in bright colours. Travellers cannot take activities and tours can be made there all being the ptarmigan. One reason there is an
their cars to the island, so it is peaceful. There are year around, on the website or by phone unusually large concentration of birds is that
a few cars on the island but most transportation at the number below. all hunting of birds and gathering of eggs is
is by tractor. The number of tractors give the banned on the island and there are no predators
island a special flavour and it is common to Museums of Life at Sea and Home such as foxes, minks, mice or rats. Therefore a
see a tractor parked outside a home instead There are two interesting museums on number of the birds are so unafraid of man that
of a car. As a matter of fact, there is nowhere It is possible to take in many of the forty minute trip around the island. You the island. In the oldest house, built by a you can come up very close to them.
else in Iceland with as many tractors per key spotsand morein the two hours still have ample time to enjoy a meal at the legendary figure called Shark-Jrundur, AMB
Hrsey
capita as on Hrsey. The island is easy to bet ween the ferr y trips, making it an Brekka restaurant, Kaffi Hrsey or Jllab visitors can learn about the history of the
reach as there are trips every two hours from interesting visit for tour groups. From the and pick up some handmade souvenirs from island as well as shark fishing in Iceland. Sklavegi 630 Hrsey
the morning until 9 pm, all year round by pier, there is a fun trip with the tractor the Perlan souvenir shop or take a stroll. Shark fishing was not for the faint of heart +354 695 0077
the Svar ferr y from rsskgssa ndur taxia hay cart towed by an elderly, sedate Staying longer enables you to thoroughly in earlier times, only those of exceptional hrisey@hrisey.net

Village, 35 km from A kureyri. It only tractor. The driver serves as a guide, telling enjoy the island, swim in the beautiful new strength and endurance could survive in the www.hrisey.net

takes 15 minutes to sail there. his passengers tales and history during the geothermal pool, go fishing and have a good arctic cold and tumultuous seas.

242 243
North Iceland

Close to Everything
From its central location, everything is within
easy reach; 5 or 10 minutes on foot are all you
need to pop out for a movie or shop for supplies
to make your own meals in Hrafninns fully

Home to the Ravens Roost

equipped communal kitchen.
In summer, be sure to make use of the
Hrafninn Guesthouse, one of Akureyris Finest barbecue on the furnished terrace for the
ultimate touch of summer living. Open

O ne of the most comfortable, yet

reasonably priced guesthouses in
year round, Hrafninn Guesthouse is one
of Akureyris finest.

Enjoy the Peace and Nature

heart. Holt, the Memorial Museum of Alda Akureyri is located in the heart of the
Hrafninn is the Icelandic word for Raven.
Halldrsdttir, shows a typical working-class downtown area. Hrafninn Guesthouse

Visit Hrsey can Organise Your Visit to this Special Northern Island EMV
home from the year 1900 onwards. occupies a rather stately, classic, double storied Gistihsi Hrafninn

house built in 1932, which greatly adds to

H rsey, a picturesque island in the

middle of Eyjafjrur, is a place
unlike anywhere else. With less than 200
They also offer various boat trips from
Hrsey. With fi shing gear on board, it can
be spectacular to go sailing through tranquil
its character and charm, lending more of a
hotel atmosphere to it. Each room is tastefully
furnished and comes with a flat-screen tv, and
Brekkugtu 4 600 Akureyri

+354 661 9050

info@hrafninn.is

inhabitants, it is part of the municipality of summer days or towards the midnight sun. private bath. The comfy beds are made up with www.hrafninn.is

Akureyri and always referred to as the Pearl fluff y duvets and quality linens.
of Eyjafjrur. Most of the houses were built Accommodation
in the early 1900s. The local bus is a hay Visit Hrsey offers two lovely guesthouses.
cart towed by a very respectable tractor. Firstly, Jnata nshs, which ha s been
It is easy to enjoy the peace and energy redecorated in the houses original spirit,
that Hrsey offers. There are pleasant hiking with three large bedrooms for up to nine
trails all over the island. The one destination persons, two bathrooms and a jacuzzi in the
no one should miss is the lighthouse, with garden. Secondly, Mnukot, which has one
a view towards the arctic to the north, the large bedroom and can accommodate up to
highlands to the south, the sunrise to the six persons. Both are open all year, centrally
east and the sunset to the west. It is like located, a short distance from the restaurant At the location is a sports f ield, a
being on top of the world. You can fi nd a and the swimming pool. playground, an outdoor kitchen with
map of Hrsey aboard the ferry to the island a f ireplace and, nearby in the valley,
or on the visithrisey.is website. Museums and birds A birdwatching house has been built where opportunities to play golf, go swimming,
There are two interesting museums on the visitors can observe large concentrations of canoeing and take a whale watching boat
What Visit Hrsey can plan for you, is: island. The Shark Museum inhabits the oldest
An Outdoor Paradise
birds. All bird-hunting and egg-gathering tour, go horse-riding, take yoga classes and
1-4 days guided hiking around Hrsey or house on the island. Here visitors can learn all is banned on the island and it is free of so much more. There are also excellent hiking
the area surrounding the island, in three about the history of shark fishing in Iceland, predators like fox, mink, mouse and rat. guides, experts on the history and nature of
languages: English, German and Italian. a profession not suited to those faint of It only takes 15 minutes to sail to the island Why Hsabakki is a Smart Choice to Enjoy Nature Svarfaardalur and the Nature Reserve.
from rskgssandur and, in a two-hour visit,
you can see the interesting spots. You have
ample time to grab a meal at one of the very
N ature based and education tourism is
Hsabakkis focus, located at the edge
of the Friland Svarfdla Nature Reserve in
vast hiking trails with signboards and bird
observation points. It is a birdwatchers
paradise with the oldest wetland reserve in
Fa r f rom t he madd ing crowd, t he
atmosphere at Hsabakki is tranquil and
cosy, the service warm and personal and
nice restaurants, although it would be better the north of Iceland, a 30 minute drive from Iceland, created by the valley farmers in 1979. staying there for a few days is relaxing and
to stay longer and thoroughly enjoy the island. Akureyri. Open all year, Hsabakki is an Hsabakki offers a range of accommodation certainly power-boosting.
Visit Hrsey SS excellent choice for nature lovers surrounded, that can easily house 62 people in 18 rooms of Hsabakki SS
as it is, by the high mountains of the Troll various sizes and prices. A sleeping-bag facility
Norurvegur 17 630 Hrsey peninsula, providing numerous hiking routes in a 16bed dormitory, large and spacious Svarfaardalur 621 Dalvk

+354 892 8033 and both easy and challenging conditions for family rooms and double rooms are available. +354 859 7811
info@visithrisey.is back-country skiing and mountaineering. It also has a lovely campsite with access to a husabakki@husabakki.is
visithrisey.is Hsabakki is owned and run by local washing machine, cooking facilities, internet www.husabakki.is

firms and individuals and is connected to connection and bathrooms.

244 245
North Iceland

Riding the North

over the fjord and the island of Hrisey.
Extinct volcanoes, silent glaciers and
Horse Riding Tours in North Iceland with Plar Hestar
The Pristine Quality of Winter
hidden waterfalls surround you and, at the Further west at Trllskagi, The Troll
highest point, a tremendous view out to Peninsula, Sport Tours offer Snowmobile

P lar Hestar Tours of North Iceland is

one of Icelands top destinations for an
the Arctic Ocean awaits your gaze.
Activity Tours with Sport Tours are Dynamic Whatever the Season
Tours, Cat Skiing, Cat Boarding, Hiking
and Horseriding in the mountains. Cat
Icelandic horse riding experience. The serenity
of countryside in the vicinity of Eyjafjrur
fjord near Grenivk, is the backdrop to an
A 7-day, 6-night tour for intermediate riders.

Fascinating North Iceland

I celand has amazingly diverse
p o s s ibi l it ie s t o e njoy i n S pr i n g ,
Su m mer, A ut u m n or Wi nter. Unt i l
Skiing and Cat Boarding just below the
Arctic Circle is quite unique. You can
literally ski from top of the world to sea-level
array of exciting excursions for intermediate You will ride from Fremstafell farmhouse recently, the fantastic winter season was and as the mountains rise from the ocean.
to advanced riders of all ages, taking place in to the impressive Goafoss waterfa ll, not available for tourists as the Icelanders
summertime at Plar Hestar Tours. into the Brardalur valley and up to the t hemselves were not keen on t he Luxury Cottages
famous Aldeyrarfoss waterfall, known for its unforeseen adventures brought on by the You can go Deep Sea Fishing, W hale
An Introduction to Set the Scene intriguing basaltic columns and onwards to magnificent northern winds, with their Watching and Shore Fishing in Eyjafjrur
After crossing the sea-level road from explore the volcanic region of Lake Mvatn. snow and ice. But, as winters in Iceland along the way. While enjoying all these
Akureyri that bridges the east and west flanks are often still and sunny, the beauty of the various activities, the best place to stay is at
of Eyjafjrur fjord, the road winds its way This is a challenging tour of 8 days and 7 endlessly white landscape was undeniable From Ocean Bed to Northern Lights the cottages provided by Sport Tours at the
to the mountaintop where you are met with nights for very experienced riders. and gradually the Icelanders learned to Iceland is geologically young and, indeed, Ytri-Vk farm. It is a beautifully peaceful
an astonishing view of snow-capped peaks enjoy its vastness through a variety of is still being sculpted and that includes place, located on the west side of Eyjafjrur,
in the distance, the little picturesque town sports. Th en, of course, they wanted the the ocean-f loors. Sport Tours offer an between Akureyri and Dalvik, close to the
Polar Hestar Tours which celebrates its 28th
of Akureyri far below and the fjord itself, awakening nature are characteristics of this whole world to enjoy them, too. exceptional diving tour to the unique diving shoreline, with a glorious and unobstructed
the longest in Iceland, silently stretching tour, which consists of several different rides anniversary in 2013, is run by the family team Sport Tours is an Activity Travel Agency sites in Eyjafjrur where you can inspect view across the fjord. The cottages are of
out to the Arctic Sea. Tranquil farms with and sightseeing by bus. You will experience of Stefn, Juliane and son, Simon. It has been a in North Iceland but operating all over the the staglamites, the geothermal chimneys different sizes and can accommodate between
fresh coats of red paint on their rooftops the days around the midnight sun visiting firm favourite with horse lovers from numerous country all year round, off ering a variety rising from the interesting lava-molded 2 16 people. All the cottages have a fully
and flocks of white sheep dot the hillsides, the famous turf houses of Laufs, the whales countries, many of whom return year after year. of tailor-made and activity-packed tours landscape underneath the waves. equipped kitchen and bathroom and a private
the lush greens of the cultivated land are at Husavk and the amazing area around the for groups and individuals, both private Th e Super Jeep tours to all the natural geothermal hot-tub on the verandah.
complimented by the deep blues of sky and breath-taking Lake Mvatn. Plar Hestar ASF and scheduled tours. They have been wonders of North Iceland like Dettifoss, Sport Tours SS
sea. This then, is the road to Grtubakki organising package tours for many years sbyrgi, Lake Myvatn, Goafoss, Askja
farm, home of Plar Hestar Tours. A 7-day, 6-night tour for intermediate riders. Grytubakki II 601 Akureyri and are true specialists on the excitement and many more, are truly mystical and Melbrn 2 621 Dalvk

+354 463 3179 and action to be experienced in Icelands inspiring. The other-worldly pristine days +354 461 2968
Ring around the Midnight Sun Ride with the Elves Tour polarhestar@polarhestar.is spectacular nature along with relaxation gradually fade into the afternoon dusk, sporttours@sporttours.is

A mythical ride through the fragrance Ride to Grenivk, stopping at the Laufs www.polarhestar.is in geothermal water, the best culinary bringing on the Northern Lights and www.sporttours.is

of spring, with bright nights and the Turf farm and museum. Beautiful views choices and very good accommodation. possibly, the dancing elves.

246 247
North Iceland

ingeyjarsveit County so-called fjallvegur or mountain road, which

is only accessible in summer. Continue until
The Spectacular Skjlfandafljt River has many awesome sights you get to a fence that leads down the hill to

G oafoss is one of the most famous

waterfalls in Iceland and undoubtedly
the most famous one in ingeyjarsveit county.
from Icelands national assembly, the Alingi, shlsvatn lake on your right hand side. Drive
he gathered his heathen icons and threw them or hike in the opposite direction to the lake,
into the waterfall. Hence the waterfalls name alongside the fence until you reach the river
At least four more waterfalls on Skjalfandafljt in English: Waterfall of the Gods. where youll find Hrafnabjargafoss waterfall.
river are certain to impress visitors but usually Aldeyjarfoss waterfall is the most awesome
go unnoticed, even though theyre only a waterfall in the river. Black vertical and bent
stones throw away from the Ring road. columnar basalt formations form the backdrop
All five waterfalls are on the Skjlfandafljt for this amazing sight.
river, which flows in a north from Vatnajkull Late afternoon in summer is the best for
glacier Europes largest glacier and photography. The waterfall is 40 km south of
discharges into Skjlfandafli Bay. Goafoss and can be reached in a normal car
Goafoss waterfall is easily spotted from the along route 842 from June until the first snows
Ring road and theres ample parking available in the autumn.
on both sides of it. The river majestically From Goafoss follow the road along the
cascades 17 metres from a horseshoe-shaped rim west bank of Skjalfandafljt River past Mri
into a ravine of volcanic origin. The waterfall farm where the road makes a sharp left hand
is accessible from both sides of the river which turn. Let yourself in through the gate but
presents a great opportunity for photographers make sure you close it behind you to prevent
to capture its essence any time of the day. At animals from wandering off. Ingvararfoss Barnafoss waterfall is in a 100 metre-deep
Fosshll, on the eastern side, theres a tourist waterfall is about 700 metres upstream from ravine. From Goafoss drive along the Ring
information office, petrol station, grocery store, Aldeyjarfoss and can only be reached on foot. road in the direction of Akureyri. Turn north
restaurant, handcraft market and a guesthouse. Hrafnabjargafoss waterfall is one of the along route 85 for 2-3 km and look for sign on
hidden secrets of ingeyjarsveit County and the right hand side saying Fremstafell which
A legend explains the waterfalls name is found a few kilometres further south in the is the name of an abandoned farm. From there
Ch ief t a i n orgei r Ljs vet n i ng a goi same river. From Aldeyjarfoss continue to drive follow a track for 3-4 km which in summer is
converted from the heathen satr religion to along the same road you came in on (842). suitable for larger cars and 4x4 vehicles.
Christianity in the year 1000. On his return This road changes into a tertiary road, F-26, a Tourist information regarding, waterfalls,
local handcrafts, fishing, accommodation and
activities is readily available at Fosshll tourist
information centre at Goafoss waterfall.

Fosshll Tourist info

Fosshli 641 Hsavk by Goafoss

+354 464 3323

Jhann li Hilmarsson
thingeyjarsveit@thingeyjarsveit.is
www.thingeyjarsveit.is

248
North Iceland

Its a Birds Life One year in the life of the birds in the Lake Mvatn area Pair of Harlequins on the fast flowing water of River Lax

M vatn is known to birders throughout

the world for its rich bird life,
particularly its abundance of breeding
the end of April the Horned Grebe starts its
magnificent courtship display.
In May, the elaborate display of numerous
a nd t he A rc t ic Ter n, le ave for t hei r
wintering grounds. M vatn is by now
swa rming wit h duck s if t he breeding
Black-headed Gull is the most common
gull in the Mvatn area and the only species
which breeds in any number. Lesser Black-
Snow Bunting and Northern Wheatear nest
in lava fields, stone walls and craters.
Other land birds are the resident Gyr
wildfowl. No other site in Europe can boast species of ducks reaches its climax. May and season has been successful. backed Gulls and Great Black-backed Gulls Falcon and Rock Ptarmigan, and the
such a diverse range of breeding ducks as June are the best months for birdwatching. September is the main migration month are summer visitors to the lake. The Arctic migrant Merlin and Short-eared Owl.
the Mvatn area. Fourteen of the sixteen Nature is recovering from the long, hard in north-east Iceland but geese and some Tern is a common breeder but it does not
species of duck which breed in Iceland can winter and the birds are extremely active ducks and passerines do not leave until Midges
be found here; the Common Eider and and conspicuous. The countryside is filled October. However, numerous birds remain The midges at Mvatn (which means Midge
Common Shelduck are coastal species and with the sound of bird song, courtship and in the area during the winter. At Mvatn Lake in Icelandic) and the River Lax are the
A pair of Horned Grebes feeding young
are therefore rarely seen at Mvatn. Th ree lively displays, the sun barely dips below the and River Lax some areas remain open mainstay of the local birds existence. If the
other species of wildfowl, Whooper Swan, Different habitat horizon and the symphony of nature seems all winter and attract resident Whooper midges were absent, there would be far fewer
Greylag Goose and Pink-footed Goose, also The Mvatn area offers you a wide range endless. Drakes are particularly impressive at Swans, Barrows Goldeneyes, Goosanders birds. The larvae of non-biting chironomid
breed in the area. Two species of divers and of excellent bird watching sites. Bird life this time of year, with Long-tailed Duck and and Mallards. Even a few Harlequins can midges live in the lake itself; they develop in

Images by jhann li Hilmarsson

one grebe breed: Great Northern Diver, and bird habitats are extremely diverse, Barrows Goldeneye fighting vigorously for sometimes be found on the river in winter. the mud on the lake bed and live on diatoms
Red-throated Diver and Horned Grebe. typified in this region by highland oases, mates and territory. Harlequin Ducks hurtle and decaying organic matter. Black fly larvae,
Their habits resemble those of ducks in lakes of global importance for birds, rich along the River Lax and the Great Northern Other birds on the other hand, attach themselves to rocks
many ways, at least during the summer. birch woods and scrubland. Wetlands and Diver can be heard wailing out on the lake. Waders often nest in or close to rich, A drake Harlequin Duck in the River Lax and feed on passing debris.
small lakes are frequently encountered and vegetated marshland, which is a common Only the black fly bites; chironomids simply
moorlands are found widely. The Remaining Months habitat in the M vatn area. They take breed in large colonies at Mvatn. Arctic irritate people, livestock and birds by flying
In July, everything seems to calm down and advantage of the abundance of midges and Skuas breed on the surrounding moorlands. into their noses, eyes and ears.
Spring the adult birds get on with quietly feeding can often be seen on the shores of the lake, The varied habitats around Mvatn attract Mvatnsstofa JH

In April, as spring arrives and the ice on the and raising their young. The drakes moult picking up insects which have drifted ashore. a range of passerines and the abundance of
lake melts, migratory birds flock to Iceland. and group. Drake Harlequin Ducks and One of the most characteristic birds of the insects provides rich pickings for them and Hraunvegur 8 660 Mvatn
Fields, ponds, lakes and rivers are swamped Common Scoters head for the sea. Mvatn area is the Red-necked Phalarope. other birds in the area. Birch scrubland and +354 464 4390
with birds arriving from Europe and Africa. In Aug ust, t he birds gat her for Eight species of waders breed in the area, woodlands are home to Icelands typical info@visitmyvatn.is

The first breeders, like Raven and Gyr m i g r at ion a nd t hos e t h at t r ave l t he including Black-tailed Godwit, and several forest birds, like the Redwing, Common www.visitmyvatn.is

A pair of Red-necked Phalaropes Falcon, have already laid their eggs and at longest dista nces, like t he W himbrel more species are seen regularly. Redpoll and Eurasian Wren, for example.

250 251
 Drakes Barrows Goldeneye fighting for territory

A pair of Horned Grebes feeding young A male Tufted Duck taking off

Birdwatching
in paradise A male Harlequin Duck in current A pair of Horned Grebe in courtship dance

Birding sites around Lake Mvatn are a variety of birds, with a range of passerines,
including Eurasian Wren, Redwing, and
in the reeds right by the path, and a range of
breeding ducks. There are often a lot of birds
In years when there is little food in the lake
itself but there are still plenty of black flies,

M vatn is a shallow and highly fertile lake

with powerful fresh water springs and
extensive areas of geothermal heat. Invertebrates
reaches of the River Lax; these species breed
nowhere else in Europe but Iceland. The same
is true of the Great Northern Diver, which
in the winter and often attracts large numbers
of birds at that time of year. In winter the water
often gives off a lot of steam owing to the
Common Redpoll. In the bay to the north
of Hfi there are large numbers of ducks
and Barrows Goldeneye breeds in the lava
at Birtingatjrn, on the other (eastern) side of
the road but unfortunately there is nowhere to
stop the car to watch them.
lots of other birds come to the river. Barrows
Goldeneye raise their young here and the
river hosts plenty of other ducks.
thrive in the lake and they provide the food for also breeds at Mvatn. Other species which presence of geothermal heat and it sometimes formations; there is often a great commotion Lake Stakhlstjrn forms part of the On the western side of the lake from
the huge number of birds living in the area. breed at Mvatn include Whooper Swan, makes for an impressive sight. In winter it is one in the spring when the females are fighting protected area around the pseudocraters at Vagnbrek ka to Neslandavk there are
M vat n is one of t he be st k now n Greylag Goose, Pink-footed Goose, Red- of the main sites for dabbling ducks at Mvatn; over the best nesting sites and chase each other Sktustair. The islet in the lake is home to numerous good sites for birdwatching. The
birdwatching sites in Iceland and is also a throated Diver, Horned Grebe, Gyr Falcon, in summer all species of dabbling duck which around and are then joined by the males. nesting Great Northern Divers. You can road closely follows the lakeshore. As this
Ramsar site. Fifteen species of ducks breed Merlin, Rock Ptarmigan, various waders, breed in Iceland can be found here, including often hear the haunting call of the divers on is a protected breeding area from May to
regularly at Mvatn and the River Lax, and including large a population of Red-necked the rarest, the Northern Shoveler. Other species Around the Klasar Rock Pillars beautiful spring and summer evenings. July, it is not recommended that you leave
there are few places in the world with such Phalarope, Black-headed Gull, Arctic Tern, breed here, including several pairs of Horned Along the shore at Ytrivogar there is a path Kritartjrn is separated from the lake your car or walk around hereit is much
a diversity of breeding wildfowl. Barrows Short-eared Owl and Eurasian Wren. Almost Grebe, and waders and gulls can often be seen leading to the Klasar rock pillars, which by a long, narrow spit of land. To the better to watch the birds from your car.
Goldeneye is the areas flagship species and 120 species have been recorded at Mvatn. on spits of land jutting out into the bay. must feature on every second postcard of south and west there are large expanses of There are often flocks of dabbling ducks,
the greatest density of breeding Harlequin Mvatn. There are various birds along this sedge, which are home to Horned Grebes diving ducks, Great Northern Divers, geese,
Duck in the world is found in the upper Take a Tour from Reykjahl The Dry Rocks of Dimmuborgir path, including Horned Grebe which breeds and numerous dabbling ducks. There are Horned Grebes, waders, gulls and Arctic
Lets take a tour clockwise around Mvatn, Dimmuborgir is a special place. Apart from often lots of Whooper Swans here and at Terns here. The western shore is the best
approximately 35 km by road, and visit a few the lava formations and bizarre landscape, lftageri, near Sktustair, the bay is place to fi nd Common Scoters at Mvatn.
of the best birdwatching sites. Just below the the bird life here differs from elsewhere often teeming with birds. It is less common on the eastern shore but

Images by jhann li Hilmarsson

old hotel at Reykjahl is a pretty stretch of around the lake. It is a very dry place and can be found there too.
the lakeshore with a number of small islets. cliff-nesting birds such as the Common A Parade of Harlequins The bird museum at bay Neslandavk is
Horned Grebes breed commonly here and Raven, Merlin and Gyr Falcon all breed The River Lax in the Mvatn area is one of one of the best birdwatching sites at Mvatn.
various dabbling ducks can be seen here too here. Redwing and Eurasian Wren are the best known breeding sites for Harlequin A f lock of several dozen Whooper Swans
sometimes Northern Shovelers are present. It is conspicuous in the scrubland. Duck in the world. Food is plentiful and moult there and in late summer you can find
a very pleasant place to go birdwatching. At Hfi, there are native birch woodlands the birds dive to the bottom of the river to hundreds, if not thousands, of ducks on the
Just south of the village of Reykjahl, there with patches of rowan, and numerous catch black fly larvae. It is also one of the bay. Horned Grebe, geese, ducks and various
Great Northern Diver calling is a bay called Helgavogur. The bay is ice-free introduced species have been planted. There An aggressive Long-tailed Duck drake best sites for brown trout fishing in Iceland. other birds breed around the bay. JH

252 253
North Iceland

Jhann li Hilmarsson
The Magical Mystery
Lake Mvatn and the surrounding areas will never cease to amaze you
T

orgeir Gunnarsson
he breathtaking beauty of the Lake Dancing lights
Mvatn area is unique. It has been Lake Mvatn and the surrounding areas are
created by volcanic eruptions and seismic the one place in Iceland protected by the
activity throughout the ages and sculpted highlands from the harsh northern winds and
by wind and rain, ice and snow. It is the wet southern winds thus retaining relative
ultimate creation of Fire and Ice. tranquility all year round and giving the And guess what! In Dimmuborgir by
It is beautiful during the light nights blissful Northern Lights free reign. No matter Lake Mvatn, the Yule Lads can be found.

Prepare for Lunar Landing

of summer with the lake mirroring the where or how you move around the area, including one in 1875 and a smaller one
rays of the midnight sun sweeping around magical lights are always within reach. You can The Yule Lads in 1961, the main caldera measures 55 km
the mountain tops, It is beautiful during chase them on horseback, on skis, on skates Thirteen days prior to Christmas the across, giving you some idea of the volume
the dark days of winter, with natura l or snowmobiles, but youll never catch them. thirteen Yule Lads start descending from the Europes largest area of unspoiled nature is Mvatn Tours playground of material which has been ejected. In the
snow sculptures forming and constantly
re shapi ng , g iv i ng t he la nd sc ape t he
illusion of dancer-like movements in the
They will just change their form or colour,
their playfulness filling you with delight.
The real treat is to sit in the warmth of the
mountains one each night. The sons of the
ancient, vicious trolls, Grla and Leppali,
these kind lads decided to leave home and
T ravelling in the uninhabited interior
of Iceland is unforgettable. In the
safe hands of Myvatn Tours, with 30 years
colourful sulphurous fields, delicate but rich
flora, young lava fields, and ice-cold glaciers.
It was on this terrain that the US astronauts
aftermath of the explosions, a series of
craters were formed, and one such crater
is the opaque, milky blue Lake skjuvatn,
perpetual Northern Lights. Mvatn Nature Baths with geothermal water settle in Dimmuborgir. There they found experience guiding visitors in this particular practiced for their lunar landing. the deepest freshwater lake in Iceland. It
drawn from depths of up to 2,500 metres, their perfect home and during the month area of this terrain, it is nonetheless Located north of Vatnajokull, about 100 was this eruption in 1875 that caused much
gazing at the Northern Lights movement of December they receive visitors every day an adventurous day, driving across the km south of Mvatn, there is little rainfall. hardship around Iceland and resulted in
across the sky. Or, you can go on a highland between 13.00 and 15.00. Furthermore, largest open area of unspoiled nature in Described as a complex of nesting calderas the largest emigration of the Icelandic
tour on snowmobiles towards Askja, to find during the fi rst December Saturday, all 13 Europe with breathtaking landscapes, in the rain shadow of Vatnajokull glacier, population to Canada and United States in
Jhann li Hilmarsson

out where the lights and the land meet. brothers come for their annual Christmas an environment of magnificently simple the area is known as dahraun, or the subsequent years.
Due to the extraordinary display of the bath in the Mvatn Nature Bath. Be sure splendour, dominated by sandy deserts, desert of crimesan intriguing name for The tour takes 11-12 hours and it starts
nature, all the tourist services around Lake to join this raucous lot at the baths on that stark or moss-covered lava plains, ever- the largest lava field in Iceland. at 8 am at the Information Centre in
Mvatn are open all year around. Hotels exact day for a lot of fun and laughter. present mountains and volcanoes, incredible Created by an immense volcanic eruption Reykjahl, Mvatn. From there you will be
and restaurants, swimming pools and nature colours, roaring waterfalls, unbridged rivers, thousands of years ago, followed by others, driven through the wondrous Mvatnsrfi.
baths provide excellent service for tourists. Horse riding on Ice The mountain road is surprisingly
Th is winter celebrates the 10th anniversary comfortable compared to many others. Its a
of the horse riding competition held on the rare privilege to stop and sip the clear water
frozen Lake Mvatn on 23rd February. No of the spring-fed rivers that you have just
wonder this part of the island is so popular forded in this remote Highland paradise!
with tourists visiting Iceland.
Mvatnsstofa SS Mvatn Tours EMV

Hraunvegur 8 660 Mvatn Arnarnesi 660 Mvatni

+354 464 4390 +354 464 1920

info@visitmyvatn.is myvatntours@gmail.com
www.visitmyvatn.is www.askjatours.is

254 255
North Iceland
, in the Heart of The Elements
www.alkemia.is

Slow Travel

Invigorate Yourself in Another World

Alkemias trips are an art of livinga deep experience of encountering nature.

A lkemia is the first travel agency to A lkemia stays there in any season.

Hiking
specialise in wellbeing holidays in the Depending on the time of year and the
Mvatn area and in organising workshops prevalent conditions, you can trek with
(Qi gong, yoga, meditations, massage, etc.) snowshoes, cross-country skis or on foot
in the heart of the elements in Iceland. and, if the weather prevents you going out,
you can take advantage of the opportunity Alkemias Philosophy:
Alkemia at Lake Mvatn to meet the local people and learn of their Alkemias guides love to take time ( slow
A stay at Lake Mvatn is an immersion age-old traditions. Without doubt, every travel ) to feel, encounter and explore hidden
in a ver y power f u l primeva l natura l
environment, where man has developed and
maintained traditions such as baking bread
outing provides an opportunity to discover
the rich and subtle features of the lake area:
its legends, culture and culinary traditions
places off the beaten track. The hikes depend
both on the weather and the inspiration of
your guides. They may be gentle or energetic,
Initiatic journey in Iceland
on the hot ground, fishing below the ice, such as peat-smoked trout or lamb, and mysterious or dazzling, but they will always
etc. The Mvatn region offers an incredible many others just waiting to be discovered. finish in the evening with a wonderful
diversity within a limited area, so there is no relaxing bath in the milky blue silica-rich
need for long trips by car. water of natural hot springs (between 37
and 42 C). To bathe like this in winter under
the starry sky, the body warm as toast, and
the head in the cool air, virtually alone in
the midst of an immense natural landscape
is an unforgettable experience, which has
become an essential for some. This is a form

Yoga, Qi Gong, Watsu,

of thalassotherapy at the origins of time. The
immensity of the landscape, the low density
of the population, the quality of the water, air,

Shiatsu, Mditation
silence and light make Mvatn a perfect place
to recharge ones batteries.

Harpa and Jean-Marc, the founders,

like to accompany people into the
sacred dimension of nature, they have
a sensibility and respect for the unseen
worldand a solid knowledge of the
material one. Encountering nature is, for
them, first and foremost the encountering
of your own nature. Join them on a trip to
a surreal world!

Alkemia Tours ASF

Well being
At any season in Myvatn area.
Birkihraun 1 660 Mvatn

+354 847 4133

contact@alkemia.is
www.alkemia.is

Languages: Franais, English, Islenska, Deutsche, Espanol

256 contact@alkemia.is Phone: +35-445-1078 Mobile: +35-847-4133 www.alkemia.is

North Iceland

Winterland
W
Wonders Enjoy Mvatns total winter transformation at Htel Reynihl
inter is coldand often miserable
in most countries of the Northern
Hemisphere. In England, for example, the
If youre thinking of a holiday or taking
your company on an incentive trip, this is
the trip everyone will be talking about for
Ride on the Lake, Snow and Mountains
Th is area has so many features that people
travel across the world to visit it. Winter
Hot in a Frozen world
During spring and summer, nearby Dettifoss
waterfall, the most powerful waterfall in
Catering for Body, Mind and Spirit
Because of the areas pure conditions in
winter, it can do wonders for the body, mind,
damp and cold seep into your bones and years to come with brightness in their eyes. just adds a new dimension to the activities Europe pours over 600 cubic metres of water soul and spirit. Htel Reynihl, for example,
bitter rains soak you to the skin. Its an experience difficult to effectively that are possible. Its the driest and stillest per second into the canyon below it. In winter, besides arranging all the activities above, also
Now, Iceland is different. It is further portray in words, but lets give it a try. part of Iceland. Th e lake freezes hard it is equally awesomeespecially when runs a Health and Wellness Programme that villages of the East with rest, refuge and
north, for surebut in this case, thats so hard that you can enjoy the thrill of silenced into a frozen ice monolith. SuperJeeps has become very popular, adding a practical sustenance in the last century. Today, it
an advantage. Surrounded by the Gulf Lights in the Sky horse-riding on the ice. These beautiful and snowmobile tours, crossing this volcanic and spiritual aspect to your holiday. boasts a good restaurant with an extensive
Strea m, the winters are not nearly a s Ni g ht s a re not pit c h bl a c k but a re animals are known for their friendliness terrain are another thrilling days excursion to It brings its 4-star rating to every aspect menu and a nice bar to relax in after a days
severe as most of Europe. lit a lmost ever y night by a display of and good dispositionalong with their several such sites. You can also see the massive of its service. Just take a look at the reviews activities. Its experienced staff are very
Northern Lights sweeping across the sky enjoyment of giving you a smooth ride cracks in the rocks caused by the movement of in TripAdvisor.com and you get the picture. knowledgeable and will be happy to help
Winter without Pain in an endless dance of swirling colour, over practically any surface. the tectonic plates and stand on two continents What about fun when youre in the depths you get the best from your visitand your
Winter offers so much thats enjoyable, beautifully offset by crisp white snow. Recently, go-karts have taken to the ice, just a short walk from the hotel. of the countryside, if being surrounded visit will be your best, too.
i n spi ri ng a nd awe some. T he c old is Warm clothes are a must, of course, but too, in a thrilling drive on special tyres. Not everything is cold, however. Volcanos by snow, steam, ice, geothermal hot pots, Htel Reynihl ASF
dry and crispespecially around Lake you dont need to worry about the cold. Others like to try hiking across the lake or surround Mvatn, leaving plenty of hotspots horses and SuperJeeps isnt enough? You
Mvatn in Northern Iceland. The snow You can even stand outside in a sweater to mountains on snowshoes or skis. and fascinating features. Theres no memory have to get to know the Yule Lads in nearby Reynihl 660 Mvatn
doesnt turn to a wretched, wet slush that enjoy the night. Th is year, the Northern T h i s i s a bi rd w a t c he r s p a r a d i s e , to beat swimming in a natural geothermal, Dimmuborgir if you come before Christmas. +354 464 4170
soaks your shoes and socks...and feet. Its Light cycle reaches its peak. Th ere wont whatever the time of year, offering new mineral-rich, hot pool in the middle of the Htel Reynihl was the only hotel in bookings@reynihlid.is

crisp and powdery. The air is clean. Theres be such an opportunity to enjoy them so ways to enjoy the birdlife, with photo snow. Your body is so warm from the water Mvatn, providing weary travellers in their www.reynihlid.is

no pollution herejust pristine beauty. much for over a decade to come. opportunities everywhere. that you dont feel the cold. arduous trek between Akureyri and the

258 259
 The Culture House
Hsavks Fascinating View of Its History

T here are two permanent exhibitions

in The Culture House: Man and
Nature 100 years in ingeyjarssla, a
- some of natural origin, such as animals,
plants and rocks, while others are home-made
objects, for instance tools, needlework, works

Hsavk new exhibition opened in 2010 and Th e

Maritime Exhibition.
of art and crafts, etc.

The Maritime Exhibition

Man and Nature10 0 Years in Here you will find displays of a large number
ingeyjarssla of boats, many of them built in Hsavk. It
This aims to provide insight into mans also includes a wide variety of fishing gear,
relationship with nature in this region in equipment and tools which were used in Research and Photography Exhibits
the period 1850-1950, and the subsistence the fisheries, seal-hunting and shark-fishing. On both the ground f loor and top f loor
farming that was practised at that time when Films can be viewed, and the exhibition offers of the Culture House various temporary
each farmstead was largely self-sufficient. an interesting interactive history database, exhibitions and events take place. This
This interesting aspect of national culture where information on such unusual matters summer, there will be an exhibition on
is explored by juxtaposing objects from nature as the location of fishing grounds, farms with archaeological research and findings in
and man-made artefacts. The presentation driftwood rights, landing-places for boats, the area, an exhibition on Icelands role
includes a large number of interesting exhibits etc. is presented in map form. in the moon landing and a photography
exhibition with photos from the Mvatn
Area at the beginning of the 20 th century,
taken by Brur Sigursson.
At the Cultural house you can also find a
childrens room, museum shop and coffee. The
Culture House is open from the 1st of June
31st of August every day from 10-18. Adult
admission is 600 ISK with children under 16
admitted free and includes all exhibits.

Hsavk Whale Museum

Dedicated exclusively to whale biology,
behaviour, and interaction with people,
this museum is housed in the towns
renovated slaughterhouse. ASF

261
North Iceland

The Biggest Bones Youll Ever See!

further from the truth, of course. Children
are especially receptive to the mysterious
Whale bones hang from the Roof at Hsavk Whale Museum nature of this hidden world. We like to

A Stay by the Park

believe that were successful in delivering a peek outside at the well-kept garden and

I f youd like to see whale bones and learn

how whales impacted Icelandic culture
si m i l a r t hei r a n atomy i s to hu m a n
anatomy, says Brarson. Most people
positive experience for children by bringing
this hidden world a little closer. The
on warmer days, sit out on the backyard
patio and listen to the sound of the gently
throughout the ages, visit the popular never have the opportunity to come in museum receives school groups from all rbl Guesthouse is a beautiful place to stay in Hsavk trickling stream. Guests who want to take
Hsavk Whale Museum in the north of
Iceland. People visit the museum because
it is the best way to learn about whales and
close contact with a whalesimply because
their ocean habitat is so different from ours.
Th is is a real pity. It is our mission at the
parts of Iceland throughout the winter. The
visits are an integral part of the childrens
education about the environment.
O n a residential side street of Hsavk,
overlooking a gentle stream on the west
end of the town park is rbl Guesthouse,
attic recently added on as an expansion.
Bedrooms have shared bathrooms with five
bathrooms in total for the ten rooms in the
a short walk can just follow the stream to
enter Hsavks park. A bit further is a lake
with a lot of trout in it. It takes about an
their environment without actually diving museum to interpret everything about a tranquil guesthouse just off the towns hotel. Styled simply, with cushioned wicker hour to walk around it. No fishing permit is
into the ocean, says curator Hermann whales to the general public. We are here Fostering a Community Spirit main street. Ten rooms prepared by owner chairs and comfortable double beds, the airy required at the lake so visitors can just grab
Brarson, a biologist with a keen interest to spark curiosity, disseminate knowledge T he W ha le mu seu m ha s bec ome a n and manager, Auur, await travellers who rooms are illuminated by sun streaming a fishing pole and see if anything is biting.
in whales. Last year, 21,000 people of all and foster respect for these animals. integral part of the local community. It is want to spend a few days whale watching or through large windows on summer days.
ages visited the museum. an attraction in its own right but it also taking day trips to Mvatn or the National The two bedrooms in the attic are styled A Governor to be thankful for
Museum for all Ages supports the budding whale-watching Park which is only forty-five minutes away. differently from the rest of the house, with rbl Guesthouses three floors were once
Whale Skeletons Our museum is perhaps the most family- industry in the Skjlfandafli Bay. Last year Auur often remains at the guesthouse to give wood stained dark honey and a skylight trod by Hsavks governor, who lived there
The crown jewel of the museum, so to friendly museum in the country, says 50,000 people visited Hsavk exclusively visitors tips or chat with them at breakfast, for lighting up a shared living room lined with until 1956, and the house acted as the city
speak, is the 13 metre-long skeleton of a Brarson. Its content comes from the to go whale watching and visit the Whale a hands-on approach. leather couches. hall for the district. Known for his kindness
sperm whale. There are 8 more skeletons on depths of the sea which is normally hidden Museum. The Whale Museum supports The three story guesthouse features After a big buff et breakfast included in and good nature, the former governor used
display. Only when one is close to one of from humans. It comes from a place that is the overall visitor experience and fosters the four rooms per floor with a two bedroom the price of the room, guests can take a to phone farmers brewing spirits during
these skeletons does one realise how large generally thought of as dangerous, lifeless, community spiriteveryone in Hsavk is Icelandic prohibition days if he expected
whales actually are and how strikingly cold and darkbut nothing could be proud of the museum. It also provides an an official visit from his superior. Partiality
important employment opportunity for to locals and exceptions to the rules were
professionals, academics, unskilled people considered a norm in this small towns life.
and volunteers in a disused slaughterhouse, Even though the governor is long gone, he is
says Brarson. Come and see the whale still remembered in the stories and hearts of
skeletons and learn how wha les have the townspeople and rbl remains known
impacted Icelandic culture. for its inner charms and outward grace.
Hvalasafni SHV rbl KB

Hafnarsttt 1 640 Hsavk sgarsvegur 2 640 Hsavk

+354 414 2800 +354 464 2220
info@whalemuseum.is guest.hus@simnet.is
www.whalemuseum.is www.arbol.is

262 263
North Iceland

Gentle Giants of the Sea

to Skjlfandi Bay, where Gentle Giants
operate. They dont seem to mind us and we

Whale Watching in Skjlfandi Bay

can often get fairly close to them. It is truly
a lifetime experience to witness the biggest

W hales are mysterious creatures in

ma ny ways a nd much of their
behaviour has yet to be explained. Scientists
surface. Others say it could be related to
communication or a power struggle between
animals. But in my experience, I think, in
animals on earth, says Stefn. Just to give
you an idea of their size; a blue whales heart
is around the size of a small car and a full
are still researching the migration patterns many cases, they are just playing around and grown animal can weigh up to 190 tons.
of many species and no one really knows showing their might and majesty to those Other species commonly seen in Skjlfandi
where the whales around Iceland go during who want to see, says Stefn. Bay a re minke wha les, white-bea ked
the winter. But after 150 years of experience, Humpback whales are the most common dolphins and harbour porpoises, while
the family now running the Hsavk whale species on Gentle Giants tours and often, orcas, fi n whales and northern bottlenose
watching company, Gentle Giants, knows also the most enjoyable. Sometimes when whales are less common.
them better than most people will ever do. humpbacks swim close to our boats, we turn Puffins also play an important role in Gentle
Stefn Gumundsson, Managing Director off the engines and watch them while they Giants excursions. Around 250,000 puffins
of Gentle Giants, comes from a long line of frolic in the ocean, says Stefn. nest around the bay during the breeding
fishermen who originally went to sea in season and passengers can get the chance to
rowing boats and then later, motorboats. He Up Close and Personal with Giants encounter these Clowns of the Ocean.
says they discovered that individual whales The largest animals on earth are the blue Gentle Giants offer guided tours departing
and whale species have unique characteristics. whales and they are fairly frequent visitors several times a day during the season. With
Weve seen that the older animals are usually a 98% success rate of spotting whales, the
much calmer and seem to be more indifferent companys aim is to raise general awareness
to visitors than the younger. But each and interest in whales and their habitat.
individual has its own character and some Gentle Giants SS
are really curious about our boats, much like
dolphins, says Stefn. Tngtu 6 640 Hsavk
Asked why whales jump in the air, Stefn +354 464 1500
says there are many theories. It could info@gentlegiants.is

be that they have an itch which they are www.gentlegiants.is

trying to relieve by crashing on the waters

264
 Ingimarsstair

As Far As You Can Go

Bakkafjrur fjord, bay and village
Bakkafjrur applies to both the bay and the

Langanesbygg Remote Beauty in N.E. Iceland

village on its eastern side. It received its trading

rshfn L a ng a ne sbyg g mu n icipa l it y wa s

formed in April 2006. Langanes itself
forms part of it, while virtually all of the
into the middle of Langanes, creating the
harbour (hfn)thus rshfn. rshfn
village a nd ha rbour is located at the
license in 1885 and the livelihood is based on
fishing, fish processing, commerce and services
rendered to the agricultural community.
The old pier and crane are still standing as
inhabitants live in rshfn on the north- innermost part of istil fj rur fj ord, by a reminder of old times when the crane was
western coast, which has a small airport. a little creek. It off ers a magnifi cent view used to hoist fishing boats in and out of the
Bakkafjrur has about seventy inhabitants, of isti lfjrur fjord. The harbour shelters water when they went fishing.
whose life revolves largely around the fishing from the north and northeast winds, the Today, people fi sh cod with a pole from
industry and related services. cruelest winds for small boats. the old harbour and local fishermen take
Langanes, a peninsula in northeast visitors sightseeing in their small boats in
Iceland, literally means long peak. It is rshfn village good weather. For the more adventurous,
40 kilometres (25 miles) long, bounded rshfn qualified as a trading port in Bakkafjrur fjord is considered a very
1846. Around 1880, the fi rst houses were
by istilfjrur fjord to the northwest and good location for kajak sailing. Camping at
Bakkaf li to the southeast. The terrainbuilt, initially as storage units for the Bakkafjrur is popular, with an excellent
inland reaches elevations of 200 400 merchants as, until that time, merchandise camp site in summer.
had been traded between the ships.
metres (6001200 feet). The highest point The swimming pool at Selrdalur valley
is Gunnlfsvkurfjall mountain in the T he L a n g a ne s C o - op ( K a u pf l a g has an astonishing mountain view. In the
southeast of the peninsula. Langnesinga) was founded in 1911. From salmon fishing season, swimmers can watch
The Langanes peninsula is popular t hat point, t he villa ge grew quick ly, the anglers, as river Sel is just below the pool.
with bird-watchers and holds the third expanding until the second half of last Langanesbygg is one of Icelands hidden
c ent u r y. Tod ay, rshf n operate s a
largest gannet nesting place in the world gems, where the beauty and soul of the small
productive fishmeal factory, a freezing
at Strikarl rock. In the springtime (May fishing villages lives on.
plant and a factory for processing ocean
June), guillemots and kittiwakes lay their Langanesbygg SP
eggs on the cliffs at Langanes and egg- quahog or hard clams.
gatherers can be seen at work there. rshfn has a few charming guest- Fjararvegur 3 680 rshfn
houses and the beautiful Eyrin restaurant, +354 468 1220
Legends located close to the harbour, an excellent sveitarstjori@langanesbyggd.is

Legend has it that, at the beginning of gym, indoor pool and hot tubs, perfect for www.langanesbyggd.is

time, Thors (r) hammer was thrown relaxing after a long day.

267
North Iceland

Participate in the daily life of Icelandic sheep farmers. Ytra Ln offers you some of Icelands best bird watching locations.

At the End of the World

Just birds, the view and sheep at Ytra Ln on remote Langanes
F or many, Icelands biggest appeal is its
remoteness and tranquillity and Iceland
doesnt get more remote and tranquil than
no other hotel in Iceland is situated further
from Reykjavik than Ytra Ln.
Birdwatchers and nature lovers are in
Langanes peninsula. luck, as just 25 km from Ytra Ln youll find
Here, youll find Ytra Ln, a farm hostel run the best conditions in Europe to view the
by a friendly Dutch-Icelandic family, from Northern Gannet and many other species
where you can explore Langanes abundance as well, even the rare Brnnichs Guillemot. Yt r a L n of fer s a w ide va r iet y of
of beautiful and splendid landscapes. Visiting the furthest peak of Langanes, accommodationincluding sleeping bag,
Situated on the north-eastern corner named Fontur, is an experience in itself and, made-up beds and has recently opened a
of Iceland, the peninsula is virtually void if not for the diligent work of cartographers, new wing with fully equipped apartments,
of inhabitants, except for a large bird youd be forgiven thinking that its the worlds which are ideal for families and groups.
population. It is therefore the ideal place for end. Except for a single lighthouse and your Ytra Ln have also set up a new venture
nature lovers who want to experience nature companions, youll be totally free from all named Art Hostel Ytra Ln where artists and
far away from the bustle of city life. In fact, signs of civilization. Among other activities in art students from all over the world convene and
the area are bird-watching and egg collecting, work together, using Langanes as an inspiration.
horseback riding, hiking tours and angling, Ytra Ln, of course, provides the accommodation
to name a few. The staff at the hostel is very and a working space for the artists.
friendly and can arrange transportation or You can now follow Ytra Ln on Facebook at
guided hikes out to the peninsula. www.facebook.com/YtraLonHostel
The stay at the hostel is also an experience Ytra Ln
NNH
in itself, as the proprietors run a sheep farm
here. You can observe the day-to-day life of Langanes 681 rshfn
Icelandic sheep herders and, if youre lucky, you +354 846 6448
can witness and partake in the sauburur ytralon@simnet.is

season, which is when the sheep start giving www.hostel.is/ytralon

birth. Sauburur usually starts in May.

268
North Iceland

Summer evening by Ldentsborgir Ldentsborgir are part of a crater row in the Mvatn area.

large number of locations to enthral those who desert of Sprengisandur where Kiagil was south-east corner has formed a smaller
love the wilderness and its adventures. a popular place of rest, a kind of mountain caldera now filled by skjuvatn, one of
oasis. The memory of this resting place has Icelands deepest lakes, with a maximum
The Highlands, in their stark beauty been rendered immortal by the following depth of 220 metres. The Vti crater next to
These barren expanses offer countless routes lines from a well-known Icelandic ballad by skjuvatn was formed in a huge explosive
of adventure. Some of these possibilities are poet Grmur Thomsen: volcanic eruption in 1875. The warm water
Askja caldera and the Vti explosion crater described in more detail below. in the crater is suitable for bathing and is
Vti (Hell) was formed in an eruption in 1875. Gsavtn are two shallow lakes to the If Kiagil I could descend popular with visitors.
east of Tungnafellsjkull glacier. There is Id give my best steed to that end.
some vegetative cover around the lakes. The Queen of the Mountains
ruins of a stone and turf hut were found here Dyngjufjll mountains are located to dahraun is Icelands most extensive

The Highlands in North East Iceland

in 1932; perhaps a testimony to outlaws or the north of the Dyngjujkull glacier, lava field, a practically continuous desert
an ancient shelter for mountain travellers. which extends north from Vatnajkull. This from the Vatnajkull glacier northwards to
In olden times, a common route between is a barren mountain cluster encircling the the mountains in the Mvatn region. The
An enchanting wilderness awaits those willing to take the challenge north and south Iceland lay across the rocky 50 km2 Askja caldera. Subsidence in Askjas most renowned of those is Herubrei, a

D uring the past few decades, highland

excursions have become increasingly
popular. Walking enthusiasts quaff the fresh
area, the mountains in the Mvatn area and
the highland tract in the eastern part of
Langanes point.
scenery, an invigorating experience that
inspires the traveller with a joie de vivre.
The far highlands signify the highland terrain
table mountain 1682 metres in height,
long referred to as the Queen of Icelandic
mountains and recently elected Icelands
mountain air, while others prefer drives All these areas offer diverse landscapes north of Vatnajkull glacier. Some would call National Mountain by popular vote.
along unmade trails in jeeps and other and panoramic views of the surrounding this the real Icelandic highlands containing a Approx imately 5 k m nor t h of t he
rough terrain vehicles. A third group likes mountain are Herubreiarlindir springs,
to combine highland jeep tours with hiking. a green oasis in stark contrast to the bleak
The highland scenery in ingeyjarssla surrounding desert. Conspicuous among the
district is stark and diverse and offers visitors lush Herubreiarlindir flora are clusters of
countless options. garden angelica, several willow varieties and
colourful aggregations of arctic river beauty.
Near and Far Highlands Herubrei and its surrounding areas were
The highlands may in fact be separated into declared a nature reserve in 1974.
two categories: the near highlands and the Kve rk f jl l mou nt a i n s a re a hu g e
far highlands. The former term refers to the mountain range at the northern extremity
highland areas closest to populated districts. of Vatnajkull glacier. The region is
In this category, we fi nd a large number of characterised by alternations of ice sheets and
mountains that offer interesting trekking clusters of natural hot springs, with the most
challenges. For example, the highland terrain prominent, Hveradalur, being the among
west of Skjlfandi bay, jeep excursions to the greatest high temperature geothermal
Flateyjardalur valley and walking tours from areas in Iceland. In summer, regular tours
there into the Fjrur area, hiking terrain are operated to the Kverkfjll region from
in Kinnarfjll mountains, the eistareykir Herubrei mountain Herubrei has been called the queen of Icelandic mountains. Kverkfjl area The opposing forces of fire and ice are very evident in the Kverkfjll area. Akureyri, Hsavk and the Mvatn District.

270 www.icelandictimes.com 271

Dyrfjll Mountains
East Iceland Fjords of Fantasy - East Iceland is open to the senses

T
iny, tight-knit communities ex tend a warm

Sigurur orbergsson
welcome here. A well-developed infrastructure,
with regular flights from Reykjavik to Egilsstair,
the main hub of the area, enable visitors to enjoy the
beauty of the region. The ferry from Europe docks at
the 19 th century town of Seyisfjrur, making the East
a good starting point for a holiday.
Tours of all types take visitors to Europes largest glacier,
stark highland mountains and sweet-smelling heathlands
and, for fishing and kayaking, to mirror-smooth fjords. The
hiking nature-lover can discover countless spectacular
routes, with frequent waterfalls and reindeer sightings.
The beauty of this area has drawn artists and designers
to the little towns, which have developed their own
cultural flavour, many with a strong Europeanand
especially, French or Norwegianinfluence.
There is a long history of folklore here. Borgarfjrur
eystri is known as the capital of the elves. Its also an
area of hiking trails and birdwatching, with puffins
being especially plentiful.
Brilliantly coloured semi-precious stones are found in the
mountains and Petras Stone Museum in Stvarfjrur
holds probably the worlds largest private collection.The
numerous hotels, guesthouses and camping areas attest
to the rising popularity of the area.
Rauubjrg by Barsnes
Photos; courtesy of the East Iceland Marketing Office.

272 273
Hiking in Strur, at Dyrfjll mountains

The arctic fox (Vulpes lagopus) A reindeer herd in Borgarfjrur Eystri

Sverrir Gestsson
Horsing around at the beach by Vlavk

By the harbour in Borgarfjrur Eystri Cleaning the boat By Lagarfljt River

 Eiur Ragnarsson
Sverrir Gestsson

Skrur, the beautiful island east of the Fskrsfjrur Bay

Beautiful Mt.Snfell An Icelandic Harbour Seal (Phoca vitulina)

ra Gumundsdttir

Viewing the world from Bjlfur mountain Neskaupstaur is the hub of Kaj, the most active kayak club in Iceland
 A Farm with a Long History
Sreksstair goes back to Saga times but is right up-to-date today to the mountaintop is always refreshing and

L ike most other farms in the country,

Srek sstair in Vopnaf jrur can
trace its history back to ancient times. It
with seven rooms, each with double beds.
The cottages can accommodate six persons
each, with all mod cons like refrigerator,
rewarded with a great view at the top.
There is trout fi shing in the Hofs river
running through the main Vopnafjrur
is mentioned in one saga, Vopnfiringa microwave, cooker, TV, DVD player, etc. valley, and various other recreational
saga, written in the middle ages, and there Each cottage has a hot tub to melt into possibilities in the Vopnafjrur area.
are documents from the 14th century that and a gas barbecue to cook the succulent The surrounding area boasts several

Vopnafjrur mention its name.

Now it is a modern farm, with modern
f a r m i n g a n d m o d e r n f a c i l it i e s f o r
accommodating tourists who want to
barbecue steaks.
There is also provision for the young:
swings, a slide and a sandbox, or rl
(meaning playground) as it is called in
excellent hiking trails and there is also a
museum and a coffee house. On the farm,
guests will have front row seats during
haymaking and other seasonal farm activities.
visit Vopnafjrur. The proprietors and childrens Icelandic. In the wintertime, visitors can watch
owners are Halldr Georgsson and Sigrur By the way, those who want to try local the magnificent northern lights glittering
Bragadttir. Halldrs family has lived here delicacies should try the cabin smoked beef across the sky and also observe the wild
since the beginning of the 20th century. tongue and duck eggs for sale at Sreksstair. reindeer when they approach the farm in
Try it with some wine in the hot tub! the December through April period.
The Cottages
Sreksstair lies in a valley on the east side of The Hvammur Guesthouse Hof and a bit of history
Vopnafjrur, 20 km from the village. At the The guesthouse has wash basins in every Sreksstair was the home of a famous doctor
farm, there are two very comfortable cottages room and shared bathrooms and cooking in the Saga period (930-1030), according to
for rent and the Hvammur Guesthouse, facilities in the middle of the house. There Vopnfiringa Saga. There is also a connection
is also a living room with a television. Those with the old manor house at Hof. In the
who wish for a made up bed can have that charter of the church from 1397, Sreksstair
service but sleeping bag accommodation is is mentioned along with several other farms
also available at a considerably cheaper price. as belonging to the manor of Hof. In the 13th
century, Hof was the seat of one of the great
Recreation chieftains of the Sturlungar era, orvarur
A f ter a peacef u l nights sleep in t he rarinsson. There is a pretty church at Hof
comfortable beds at Sreksstair, it is time today which is well worth visiting.
to get up and plan the activities for the day. Sreksstair NNH
T he v a l le y of Su n nud a lu r, w here
S rek s st ai r l ie s, of fers a va riet y of Sreksstair 690 Vopnafjrur
interesting sights, like the farm of Hraunfell, +354 473 1458
an abandoned farm an hours walk from sirek@simnet.is

Srek sstair. There a re severa l ot her www.sireksstadir.is

abandoned farms in the valley, and a hike

279
East Iceland

Guarded by the highlands. The story is deep and dramatic,

but the prose is nevertheless full of sardonic

a Firey Dragon
humour, ensuring a highly entertaining read.
It is a favourite of many Icelanders.
The countryside around Vopnafjrur is
the childhood home of another big figure of
20th century literature in Iceland, Gunnar
Gunnarsson, who grew up on Ljtsstair.
This most famous Icelandic writer of his

The Otherworldly Landscape of Vopnafjrur

fishing industry has grown considerably, and generation wrote a lot about the country life on the landscape. On the banks of one of
is today the largest business sector in the area. of Iceland, influenced by the people, nature them, Sel, one finds a cosy geothermal
The museum of Kaupvangur is located and culture of the Vopnafjrur area. swimming pool with a nice view over the

I magine sailing towards a rough coastline

and a range of magnificent blue mountains.
Not only are you confronted by an utterly
vopni. Vopnafjrur also boasts of its own
Saga, Vopnfiringa saga, which is centred
around a dispute between local chieftains.
in the village in a large old wooden house
down by the harbour. The museum is in
remembrance of the thousands of emigrants
Through the large area of untouched
landscape surrounding Vopnafjrur Bay,
two great salmon rivers leave their mark
river. Among other interesting sights inland
is the historical farm of Bustarfell, a regional
museum where history comes alive through
foreign and otherworldly landscape but The wide-stretching sandy coastline who left the region in the great emigration storytelling and workshops each summer.
also an otherworldy creature flying over the hosts a myriad of marine life forms and from Iceland to America in the late 19 th The same family has lived on Bustarfell since
countryside; a dragon protecting this land of fire the magnificent cliffs and rocky islets of and early 20th centuries in the wake of the 1532 in a large turf farmhouse until 1966.
and ice. This was the sight facing a seafarer, who Vopnafjrur make a superb sight. They devastating Askja volcanic eruption of It is one of only a few farmhouses of its kind
sailed to Iceland in ancient times, according to culminate in natural wonders such as 1875. Also in this house, there is a museum preserved today.
Heimskringla, an Old Norse kings saga. Skjlfjrur, easily accessible by driving the commemorating brothers Jn Mli rnason Vopnafjrur is a interesting site for all
Nowadays, Vopnafjrur stands as a old highway east of Vopnafjrur village, and Jnas rnason, who wrote several jazzy those travellers yearning for an experience of
spectacular example of the grand, harsh, which then becomes the high pass of musicals in the fifties and sixties, which have the pristine nature of Iceland while soaking
but yet beautiful, Icelandic landscape. Hellisheii between Fljtsdalshra and become classics of Icelandic popular culture. in the history of Icelands settlement, the
Fortunately, this magnificent landscape is Vopnafjrur and provides travellers a One of Icelands most renowned novels, Nordic myths and the harsh conditions of
more welcoming to travellers now, when spectacular view. Independent People, by the Nobel Laureate life throughout the centuries.
one certainly does not need to worry about The village of Vopnafjrur lies on the Halldr Laxness, was greatly influenced by Vopnafjararhreppur
NNH
escaping the fire of a dragon, though it would leads one to wonder about Vopnafjrurs small peninsula of Kolbeinstangi, creating the struggle of poor farmers in the countryside
certainly be exciting to catch a glimpse of one. nature and history. Its history reaches back a lovely scene with its colourful old wooden surrounding Vopnafjrur village. Hamrahl 15 690 Vopnari
The dragon is Vopnafjrurs icon and one 1100 years when the bay was first settled by houses just by the sea, surrounded by rocky Independent People follows the struggles +354 473 1300
of the four so-called landvttir guardians Viking seafarers from Norway. It derives its cliff s and islets. It became one of Icelands of Bjartur of Summerhouses, a stubborn skrifstofa@vopnafjardarhreppur.is

of Iceland, who are pictured on Icelands name (literally meaning Weapon Fjord) from major harbours for commerce in the 18th and sheep farmer and former servant, who lives in www.vopnafjardarhreppur.is

coat of arms. Th is ancient, mythical figure one of the settlers, who was called Eyvindur 19th centuries. In the last half century, the poverty with his family in the vast emptiness of

280 281
East Iceland

The Hiking Paradise

lfheimars Comfort Hiking Package

M oving mounta ins may seem

i mp o s s ible , but t hou s a nd s of
years ago, when the landscape around
We h ave spent t i me cre at i ng t he
different day tours from our hotel and
have hosted every level from amateur to
A h i k ing g u ide t a ke s g ue st s f rom
the hotel to a new destination each day
while explaining to them about the area.
Once at lfheimar, guests have nothing
to worr y about a s a ll tra nsportation,
mu s eu m a d m i s sion s , a nd me a l s a re
The Hiking Tour Plan
In the normal day-to-day programme, the
second day begins with a hike to Storu,
Borgarfjrur eystri was still forming, experienced hiker. Our local guides give All hotel staff have lived in the area for included. Meals focus on local food and or Boulder Hollow, chosen as the best
colossal glaciers collided, raising massive our guests opportunity to see places that several years and can often trace the story guests often have the chance to meet the hike in Iceland last year. Starting from
mou nt a ins a nd le av ing pat h s of f lat they might not find on their own and tell of a place that could cause questions to farmers and fi shermen who supplied their Vatnskar pass, an experienced guide
valleys in their wake. them about what they see and experience, city people to a folk-tale or the local life dinner. Guests are always encouraged to will lead hikers across the Geldingafj all
The Borgarfjrur eystri hiking area says Arngrmur. of the village. Borgarfjrur eystri has drop by the farms to get a better idea of mou nt a i n. From t here, you c a n se e
was named one of the 25 most beautiful a diverse collection of rare rock s and daily life and, if they arrive in autumn Nja rvk, Fljtsda lshra va lley, t he
treks in the world by National Geographic In the Footsteps of Elves minerals especially rhyolite. or spring, they get the added experience black sandy beach of Hrasfl i bay and,
Adventure and last years top choice for lf heima r Guest house encourages At the rock museum of one family in of participating in the autumn sheep if the day is particularly clear, Vatnajkull
hiking in Iceland. Borgarfjrur eystri, a it s g ue s t s to s low dow n a nd t a k e a the village you can see several unique round-up or springs lambing season. glacier and Mt. Snfell in the distant
small community in the north eastern corner closer look at their surroundings with t y p e s of s t on e s f ou n d i n t h e a r e a . east. From here its not far to Strur, an
of the country, distinguishes itself from it s H i k i n g i n t he E lve s Mou nt a i n Un l i ke L a nd ma na lau g a r, one of t he The Hiking Programme expanse of enormous rocks cut through by
other hiking areas with its well-established Programme. Rather than rushing from most diff icult treks in the country, in A rngrmur says that guests arrive for a small river with streaming pools of icy
infrastructure and clearly marked trails. place to place, guests are treated slow Borga r f jrur eystri, rhyolite c a n be the 3 day tour early on Monday or for turquoise water. The road then forks into a
For over fi fteen years, Arngrmur Viar travel in the immediate surroundings found at the coastline, close to the road the 6 day tour, early on a Sunday, ready more challenging, yet unforgettable, hike
sgeirsson, owner of lfheimar, has aided where they can get a better idea of local and along relatively easy hiking trails. for the f irst hike. The season starts at through Dyrfjll, the Door Mountains,
tourists in their search for natural beauty life and nature. The community has its t he beginning of June a nd t here is a or a n e a sier w ay dow n t h rou g h t he
by off ering a complete 37 day package to roots in eco-tourism, placing a special A Quick Flight to Paradise guaranteed departure every week until valley. Following a days rest and hearty
visitors so that they can simply relax and emphasis on respect for nature through It is easy to get to Borgarfjrur. midSeptember. If they have only one meal of freshly-caught f ish from local
enjoy their time. environmenta l stewa rdship. This ha s Air Iceland f lies from Reykjavk to guest, it can be lovely but they take a fi shermen, a new day begins with a more
Often referred to as comfort hiking, e a r ne d t he c om mu n it y r e c o g n it ion Egilsstair and then Alf heimar offers maximum of 12 people per guide. relaxed hike of 11 km, stretching from
lf heimar offers a complete package and from the EUs Blue Flag programme for free collection to the accommodation Because they spend 5 nights at the Self ljt river and along the seashore to
includes hotel accommodation and local its environmenta lly friendly harbour, in Borgardfjorur eystri. hotel, they can choose their 6 days of Stapavk cove. From Stapavk, the hike
restaurant dishes. Though days can be Hafnarhlmi. Birds, especially puffins, The pick-up from Egilssair airport and hiking when they see the weather report goes along an old riding trail through
long and rigorous, lf heimar provides circle the harbour area, which provides an accommodation in Borgarfjrur eystri and the catch of the day is offered in Elves Gnguskr pass. Until 1955, this trail
its guests with a comfortable place to rest ideal lookout point for avid bird-watchers. are included in the tour. Guests will Mountain. Hikes are from 12-18 km but was the only way from Borgarfj rur to
after a day out in nature. The only thing T h r e e t o s e v e n d a y t ou r s g i v e be taken to one of lf heimars thirty usually, they are about 5-8 hours in the Fljtsda lshra va lley. Once through
that they need to bring is a good pair of travellers the chance to explore the area double rooms, each with made up beds countryside. Everyone likes to stop and the valley, hikers will be picked up from
hiking boots and warm clothes. and break from their normal routine. and a private bathroom. experience the nature and the wilderness. Njarvk and driven to Borgarfjrur.

282 283
East Iceland
The next day is dedicated to an easy where they can spend the
hike of 15 km to view Breiavk. Hikers day before heading back to Reykjavik.
begin walking over moors and will notice
light brown rhyolite that turns golden in Preparing for the Hikes
the sunshine around Lake Urarhlavatn. lfheimar Guesthouses owner, Arngrmur
As Breiavk inlet stretches before them, Viar sgeirsson, has taught sports at
they will watch the majesty of rhyolite the loca l school for severa l years and
mountains expand in an array of pastel recommends a few tips to prepare for the
colours. After a gentle walk along a sheep trip. Though hikes are easy to moderate,
trail, its time to enjoy the ambience, I encourage people to walk for one to two
waterfalls and peace in Breiuvk before hours, three to four times per week to get
heading up to Gagnheii ridge which is their bodies ready for hiking. We want to
the best viewpoint over about 500 metres, make sure that our guests get to see all
and then its back to Bakkageri. the places and some require more eff ort
T he f if t h d ay is a gent le one a nd to get to. Hikes can be challenging, but
i nc lude s a c u lt u r a l tou r a rou nd t he we make sure we f ind out each hikers
immediate area of Borgarf jrur capability before we head off on the days
encompassing the old turf house, concert hike, advises Arngrmur, and if someone
hall, local fish factory, and a workshop decides to take a day off, we can help them
that turns rock to art. The local museums to fi nd short hikes or places to go in the
of the artist Kjar val and the fair y tale little village of Bakkageri.
museum where you ca n lea rn a litt le
more about the local elves are also on A Visit To Fairy Tale Land
t he route which, of cou rse, include s Guests can take a close look and learn
t he E l f r o c k a nd t he lo c a l c hu rc h . information about the landscapes geology
Following a delicious fish soup from the by going to the rock museum which then
local lfacaf, the guides lead hikers to leads into every childs dream, Fairy Tale
Hvolsmlir peak which lies at the foot of Land. Adults and children alike can hear
the Door Mountains. stories and kids can try on elf costumes as
T he h i ke s w i l l c ont i nue t he ne x t they visit a castle, the elves mountain home,
d ay w it h Br n av k B ay. It s t a r t s at and dive under the sea to a mermaids world.
Borgarfjrurs environmentally friendly
harbour, Hafnarhlmi, with a visit to the The Art of Kjarval
puffins and other nesting birds such as A n ex hibit ion about Kja r va l, one of
the harlequin ducks. Moving up from the Iceland s most famous painters, takes
coast, the hike passes through vegetated g ue st s t h rou g h h is li fe a nd d isplay s
m ou nt a i n s c r e e s t o B r n a v k p a s s , his sketches of local people. For guests
descending to Brnavk inlet. Here lies a looking for a cosy caf. Elf Caf off ers a
black sand beach littered with beautiful delicious fi sh soup, homemade cake and
stones and a small stream that hikers can cookies, coff ee, tea and espresso.
cross barefoot, staying that way until In t he lit t le f ishing v i l la ge of
they reach Hofstrandarskar pass. The Bakkageri and the nearby area, you can
final part of the walk f lanks Helgrgil, fi nd about 140 people and a lot of elves.
a ca nyon where a myriad colours a re They off er a variety of 240 diff erent types
ref lected, a nd heads back towa rds of beds from mountain huts to hotel style
Bakkageri village. rooms. Th ey like to have guests and are
not involved in mass tourism, so will help
A Time to Choose a New Direction you to fi nd the right place for you to stay.
Guests have the option of continuing For more information, the local tourism
t heir st ay in Borg a r f jru r e y st ri or website, www.borgarfj ordureystri.is will
choosing to ta ke a tour that includes give you a lot of material and www.puffi ns.
travel to M vatn a nd A ku re y ri. T he is can update you about the birdlife.
difficult task of leaving Borgarfjrur is lfheimar KB
softened by the beauty of Mvatn, which
hosts a variety of birdlife on its peaceful Brekkubr, 720 Borgarri eystri
shores. Guests will visit Mvatns famed +354 861 3677
natural geothermal bath and stay at a info@elftours.is

nearby farm holiday guesthouse. From www.adventures.is

there they will be driven to A kureyri,

284
 Kingdom of the Wyrm
those who sight him with joy, rather than
fearand he is not shy of attention. There

Egilsstair F
Welcome to the Monster with a Kindly Disposition
are numerous sightings of the Wyrm each
year and he has already earned his fame
ljtsdalshra on the East Coast of salmon fishing while sportsmen enjoy one of on YouTube, http://www.youtube.com/
Iceland is home to a progressive, Icelands most exciting hunting areas. It is also watch?v=8OmyyHyya64
energetic society, in harmony with the home to the huge Krahnjkar Hydroelectric
special environment of the area. Famous Power Plantan excellent example of human Popular destination
for its natural beauty and pleasant climate, innovation and engineering. The inhabitants of the region of Lake Lagarfljot
often resembling that of the European Fljtsdalshra is a friendly community have an annual festival in late August named
continent, Fljtsdalshra is characterised of 3,500 inhabitants, living in several after the monster. Called Ormsteiti, it is a full
by forestsrather exceptional in Iceland. communities. Amongst them is the lovely week of exhibitions, concerts, celebrations and
The landscape is amazingly diverse, Egilsstair by the Lagarf ljt lake, which gatherings with a little bit of carnival style. The
re ac h i ng f rom sa ndy e st u a r y shore s is home to Icelands most renowned water lake monster, of course, is in the spotlight the
(Hrassandar) and steep ocean cliffs to monster, Lagarfljtsormur (The Lagarfljot whole week, appearing or not.
mountains and the great Vatnajkull glacier. Wyrm). First sighted in 1345, the monster Throughout the year, Fljtsdalshra is
It is adorned with raging waterfalls, tranquil is adored by the Icelanders and thus, has a popular destination for Icelanders as well
lakes and picturesque rivers contributing to never had a reason to move away. After as foreign tourists. The area has excellent
the many scenic attractions making it so reigning for several centuries, the Wyrm amenities for the visitors who can enjoy
favourable for outdoor recreation. appears to have a kindly disposition, fi lling splendid restaurants and hotels while enjoying
the various cultural and natural features. All
Plentiful nature hotels and guesthouses in the area can be
Fljtsdalshra has numerous enjoyable recommendedand the camping sites are
hiking routes through forests and open areas also well equipped and very nice.
and trips into nearby mountain ranges are SS
Fljtsdalshra
popular regardless of the time of year. It
offers a rich selection of fauna, outstanding Lyngsi 12 700 Egilsstair
opportunities for bird-watching and a unique +354 470 0700
chance to view reindeer in Iceland. Berries jotsdalsherad@jotsdalsherad.is

and mushrooms grow plentifully. Anglers www.egilsstadir.is

seek out the lakes and rivers for trout or

287
East Iceland
welcome to pop in for the DVD player, wi-fi internet
reasonably-priced lunch or dinner offerings of access, refrigerator, as well as tea and coffee
beef goulash, lasagna, meat sandwiches and a making appliances. Vnland also provides a
variety of traditional skyr desserts, pancakes, laundry service.
waffles and other sweet treats.

Sports and Amenities

There is easy access to a golf course and horse
riding. Egilsstair is just across the river,
All Egilsstair Farm products are sold where you can enjoy museums, an outdoor
retail to consumers. Mince, fillet, prime rib swimming pool with hot tubs, lovely shops,
and ribeye steaks can all be bought at the restaurants, bars and supermarkets.
shop in pre-cut frozen form. As the weather is generally mild in the east

Cowshed Corner In Your Private World

Da ir y produc t s include pla in a nd part of Iceland, at the end of the day youll
blueberry skyr, skyr desserts, feta cheese, and cherish just sitting outdoors and watching

Straight from the Farm in East Icelands Fjshorni in Egilsstair

milkall packaged and labeled with the the glow from the midnight sun as it casts
attractive Fjshorni logo on the containers. Vnland Guesthouse provides a base to reach all East Iceland its rays on the town across the river.

P ractically everyone has heard of the curds

and whey that Little Miss Muffet made
famous. But not many people know that the
Farm recently opened a farmers market on
its premises, offering pure Icelandic dairy
products, straight from their own milk
Fjshorni EMV
W hen travelling through the eastern
pa rt of Icela nd, Egilsstair is
an ideal town to set up a base as it is the
Vnland is a family run motel with a
large car park at a relaxing location across
the Lagarfljt river from Egilsstair. The
Vnland Guesthouse SS

Egilsstum I 700 Egilsstum Vnland 701 Egilsstair

skyr that is so popular in Iceland is, in fact, production as well as a variety of cuts of beef +354 471 1508 gateway to both the magical highlands and accommodation comprises 6 tastefully +354 615 1900
a variation of those curds (minus the whey). from its own cattle herds. Open in summer none the splendid fjords along the coast. And decorated bedrooms, which are cleaned info@vinlandhotel.is

Because of the growing demand for pure only, weekdays from 11.00 to 18.00 and none
what better place to still retain your privacy and refreshed on daily basis and all of www.vinlandgisting.net

Icelandic dairy and beef products, Egilsstair weekends from 14.00 to 17.00, visitors are than Vnland Guesthouse. which have en-suite shower, television, a

A bit of history
The guesthouse shares sprawling estate
grounds with Egilsstair Farm, which has
been operating continuously for centuries.
The town of Egilsstair grew up around the
farm and eventually became the site of the
major crossroads of East Iceland. Today,
the farm continues its operations with 70
cows that provide the hotel with all its
dairy products, such as milk, skyr, yogurt
and cheese, as well as some of the highest
quality beef products in Iceland.
The k itchen is overseen by Hu lda
Danielsdttir who is fast gaining a reputation

Eastern Lakeside Resort

for her creative cooking skills and blending of
Hotel Hallormsstaur lies a short distance

At the Eastern Crossroads

traditional and progressive cuisine, sourcing
from East Icelands natural beauty circled by most of the ingredients either locally or from
Hotel Hallormsstaur offers boating, riding, swimming and more impressive waterfalls, en route to the highlands,
Egilsstair Guesthouse
around East Iceland. The restaurant prides

I n the midst of Icelands largest forest, sits cup of coffee or tea on Hotel Hallormsstaurs and a short trip from Vatnajkull National Park
Hotel Hallormsstaur, perched atop a hill, two outdoor patios that give a view of Lake and Mt. Snaefell. It can easily accommodate
overlooking Lake Lagarfljt. Resembling a Lagarfljt and Mt. Snaefell in the distance. large groups and will open its doors in winter to E gilsstair Guesthouse, on the shores
of Lake Logurinn in the town of
itself on its beef tenderloin from Egilsstair
Farm as well as its delectable handmade
ice cream and sorbets, both of which come
lakeside resort, Hotel Hallormsstaurs Spacious rooms are equipped with a cater specifically to meetings and special events. Egilsstair, is a remarkable old world hotel highly recommended.
reputation is built on a commitment to television and en-suite bathroom. Rooms Htel Hallormstaur KB that has been accommodating guests since EMV
Gistihsi Egilsstair
serving guests, which is shown with the on the upper floor have a spectacular view 1884. Eighteen renovated double rooms, all
small touches of comfort in its rooms and of the lake and forest and rooms on the Hallormsta 701 Egilsstum with en suite bathroom, plus a fi ne dining 700 Egilsstum
when presenting a delicious dinner buffet that lower floor open onto an outdoor area where +354 471 2400 restaurant, complete with white linen +354 471 1114
ranges from traditional Icelandic cuisine to guests can sit on sunny days or enjoy a walk hotel701@hotel701.is tablecloths and views overlooking the garden egilsstadir@egilsstadir.is

international dishes like curried vegetables on one of the many nearby trails and soon, hotel701.is and lake, make this a cosy and romantic www.egilsstadir.com

and seaweed salad. Guests can dine or drink a to an outdoor spa, planned for this spring. choice for an overnight stay or longer.

288 289
East Iceland

Hidden Pearls of the Highlands

Fjalladr offers accommodation and tours in Icelands highest inhabited settlement
T he highest inhabited area in Iceland The Caf in the Mountains and Herubreialindir, an oasis in the

A Fresh Place to Stay

It gives a fresh atmosphere to the guesthouse, is called Mrudalur, where you can Fjalladr is 1500 feet above sea level in middle of the barren highlands where
as all the comfortable furniture also carries find accommodation and guided tours between Mvatn and Egilsstair. Here you Fjalla-Eyvindur resided during the hardest
a fresh feel to it. The large picture windows to the northern highlands of Iceland. will find Fjallakaffi (or Mountain Caf) winter of his banishment.

Egilsstairs Lyngs Guesthouse offers simple, clean rooms to stay.

offer attractive views. Fjalladr offers 27 made up beds and restaurant which offers Icelandic cuisine and The highlands have an especially rich
All rooms share bathrooms, kitchen, and camping facilities, guided hiking tours ideal refreshments after a hardy walk. All geological history with many volcanic

O pened in 2010, Lyngs Guesthouse

gives guests in Egilsstair good
quality accommodation at an affordable
the living room and there is free wireless
Internet access throughout the guesthouse.
Egilsstair is the service hub for the entire
as well as specially designed jeep tours to
hidden pearls of the highlands.
the meat in Fjallakaffi comes from locally
bred sheep, which is cooked and smoked
according to age old traditions.
eruptions throughout the ages creating a
unique landscape. These phenomena are
explained in Fjalladrs nature tours and the
price in a modern house. East and is an ideal location from which to Mystery in the Air By special order, Fjallakaffi offers Slturterta guided hiking tours of various lengths and
It has six bedrooms ranging from those base while exploring the region. Mr ud a lu rs h istor y is pa r t icu la rly (or blood-pudding cake), which is a full meal types, all created according to the customers
suited for individuals, to rooms for couples The guesthouse is just a few minutes walk interesting, as it has been inhabited since made to resemble Herubrei Mountain, wishes. In the summer, Fjalladr offers
or groups of up to seven people. Being a from the swimming pool and art museum. the settlement of Iceland and has served complete with mashed potatoes in the crater. guided evening walks where guests staying
new guesthouse, all the furnishing are also Lyngs is also very conveniently located for as an important waypoint ever since. The You can also purchase wool-products in overnight can learn about the local geology,
new and carry that fresh feeling. all services in the centre of town. northern highlands also became a hiding Fjallakaffi, beautifully knitted by local women. flora, agriculture, culture and history.
Guests on a budget can bring their sleeping ASF place for Icelands most famous outlaw, Fjalladr
Lyngs Gistiheimili
bag for a reduced price or pay a small fee for Fja lla-Ey vindur. Fja lladrs Elsabet Tours to the Remote
the convenience of a made up bed. Lyngsi 5-7 700 Egilsstum
K ristj nsdt t ir says t he Mr ud a lu r Fjalladr offers guided jeep tours to Mrudal 701 Egilsstair

+354 471 1310 valley is surrounded by an air of mystery remote locations such as Askja, an immense +354 471 1858
Good quality in a minimalist style lyngas@lyngas.is and adventure, which can only be fully active volcanic crater with a pool of water at fjalladyrd@fjalladyrd.is

White walls, accented with bright photos of www.lyngas.is enjoyed in the company of those who the bottom, the Ice Caves of Kverkfjll, the www.fjalladyrd.is

plant life emphasise clean cut minimalism. know the areas rich history. enormous canyons of Hafrahvammagljfur

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East Iceland

The Reindeer Centre There is also a crafts store where purses, hats

A Guesthouse in East Iceland dedicated to managing the reindeer

and a variety of gifts, all made out of reindeer
skin, hair and horns are available for purchase.

I n a building that used to be the schoolhouse

for the area, in Skjldlfsstair in
Jkuldalur, Aalsteinn Ingi Jnsson runs a
The Guesthouse
The walls of the guesthouse are lined with
antlers, skins, reindeer products, pictures
The Origin of the Reindeer in Iceland
In 1771, the f irst group of reindeer to
guesthouse which is dedicated to the reindeer. and information. During the hunting season arrive in Iceland was from Norway and
Along with the guesthouse and its various the Centre becomes a veritable hunting lodge. was put ashore in the Westman Islands
memorabilia connected to reindeer and It can accommodate up to 37 people, and on the south coast of the country. A
reindeer hunting, Aalsteinn runs a small zoo in either made up beds or sleeping bags. second group came in 1777 and was put
where the animals can be seen close up. Break fast is included and other meals ashore on Reykjanes Peninsula and the
are available on request. third in Northern Iceland in 1784.
Included in the price is access to a small All these groups died out however, but
swimming pool and a jacuzzi. The Centres a fourth group, which was put ashore in
kitchen can accommodate groups of up to Vopnafjrur in 1787, survived. Th is is the
120 people for special occasions. You may, basis of the present reindeer stock in Iceland.
of course, order reindeer steak, which is The stock is now around 5,000 animals
a real delicacy, as well as a host of other and efforts are made to keep that size each
dishes all made of reindeer meat. year. Annual hunting quotas are issued
according to both area and gender. In this
Zoo and Crafts Store way, it is ensured that the population is
At K lau stursel Fa rm, a not her 17 k m spread equally and the ratio of males to
f u r t h e r u p t h e v a l l e y, r e i n d e e r o r females supports the breeds renewal.
hreindr, as they are called in Icelandic, hreindraslum
can be seen close up. The small reindeer
fa mily consists of one buck, one doe Skjldlfsstair 701 Egilsstair
and a year old calf. Loca ls say that the +354 471 2006
buck and calf are very friendly, but the allij@centrum.is

female is very shy, so dont be offended www.ahreindyraslodum.is

if she seems aloof.

292 Sklanes
 The Natural Pearl of the East
Seyisfjararkaupstaur is both beautiful and challenging
T he road to Seyisf jrur crosses
Fjararheii, a mountain range which
has, over the centuries, presented a huge
the upcoming generation of young artists,
the festival has become one of the main art
events of the year in Iceland.
obstacle to travel, but is now reduced to a
mere 30 minutes. Commanding views from Alive in the Past
Fjararheii and the road leading down to Seyisfjrur also has its own historical
the fjord is one of Icelands most spectacular. museum with lively exhibitions that seek Denmark, which docks at Seyisfjrur,

Seyisfjrur Charm and History

The small, but charming village of around
700 inhabitants, is distinguished by its
to recreate the atmosphere of the times making it the only place in Iceland where
they portray; from 1880 to 1950 technical you can travel abroad with a car.

Challenging the Outdoors

collection of well preserved and colourful Recreational highlights include midnight
timber houses from the early 20th century. kayaking on the fjord ( in summer only),
Seyisfjrur is considered by many to be attempting the challenging Seven Peaks
one of the most picturesque towns in Iceland, Hike, mountain biking, sea angling and
also known for its thriving art scene. bird watching at Sklnes. Guided tours of
historic Seyisfjrur can also be arranged.
Art in Action
In the centre of town rises the pretty Blue Shortlisted for Capital
Church, which serves as the local centre In the latter part of the 19th century, Iceland
for music, while the Skaftfell Art Centre is still didnt have a proper capital. The
dedicated to the visual arts, with its focus on intellectual elite were aware of the problem
contemporary arts. and much back-and-forth discussion took
Artists, art lovers and visitors from all over place before it was decided that Reykjavk
Iceland and abroad convene at the annual innovations in areas such as mechanics, would be the best spot for the capital of the
LungA art festival in July. Mostly aimed at electricity, communications, telephony, future. Along with Akureyri, Seyisfjrur
commerce and architecture changed forever was one of the candidates, since it was easier
the dynamics of the Icelandic way of life, to sail to Europe from Seyisfjrur than
bringing it swiftly into the modern era. from any other of the towns in question.
Seyisfjrur
Linked to the Outside World
It was here that the first telephone line Hafnargata 44 710 Seyisfjrur
linking Iceland to the outside world was +354 470 2300
built. Other historical links include the ferdamenning@sfk.is

Norrna ferry, a North Atlantic ferry that www.seydisfjordur.is

connects Iceland to the Faroe Island and

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East Iceland
located at the mouth of the
Fjarur River with views across the fjord.
Recreational highlights include midnight
kayaking on the fjord (in summer only),
attempting the challenging Seven Peaks
Hike, mountain biking, sea angling and
bird watching at Sklanes.

Eat, Drink, and Enjoy

Eskifjrurs Kaffihsi caters for dining, relaxing and staying
A huge, tilted coffee mug balanced
high above Eskifjrurs main street
announces the new arrival of a restaurant,
selection and making the most of easily
available ingredients. The result is a menu
with a range of international flavours, with
guesthouse after enjoying a meal or coffee.
Parties and events can be arranged on request,
with Kaffihsi catering food and arranging
sports pub, and meeting place. Opened in dishes like chicken curry adding a kick to pub its restaurant to suit visitors needs.
May 2011, Kaffi hsi has quickly become food staples like nachos and pizza. Kafhsi Eskiri KB
an important part of town life. Its chef Though it normally closes at 10 pm, on
lived in Spain for a decade before deciding Friday and Saturday, Kaffi hsi stays open Strandgtu 10 735 Eskiri
to return to Iceland and is experienced as until between 1 am and 3 am with music, +354 476 1150
Skaftfell Cultural Centre and Bistro both cook and restaurant owner. disco, or sports games bringing much of the su111@simnet.is

Overseen by the well known Indian chef, Owners Grtar and his wife found it town to the pub. Kaffi hsi also welcomes www.kafhusid.is

Jasmine Olsen, Ska f tfell Bistro is an important to involve their staff in menu its visitors to stay the night at its 11-room

Trendy Seyisfjrur
informal artsy kind of place that serves

Eyjlfsstair Guesthouse
possibly the best pizzas in Iceland. Enjoy 1977 and it has been run as a guest house
the thin crust langoustine pizza with a glass since 1983, Johann tells us. Many of his
A Delightful mix of old and new
Cheerful and Spotlessly Clean
of red wine, or the rich Thai vegetable soup grandparents original furnishings have been

I n recent years, the village of Seyisfjrur

at the far reaches of East Iceland, has
become something of a trendy place for
with coconut cream and a plate of fresh
tapas. The bistros interior design is inspired
by the late German artist Dieter Roth and N estled down between the undulating
folds of Fossardalur Valley in the
used in the decorating, giving the cute guest

musicians and artists. In summer, the today serves as an artists residency and East Fjords, with its 30-some waterfalls,
colourful fishing village attracts visitors cultural centre. The upstairs gallery offers lies Eyolfstaur Guesthouse. Cheerful
from all over Iceland and abroad, who come exhibitions by local artists. and spotlessly clean, the sleeping-bag-only
to partake of the popular Lunga Art Festival Hotel Aldans reception centre at the guesthouse is popular with hikers and walking
and the flourishing cultural scene. towns entrance also houses the high class tour groups and is one of the most inexpensive
W hile the 26 k m paved road from Hotel Alden Restaurant, featuring traditional lodgings in the area. We met up with 19 year-
Egilsstair to Seyisfjrur is steep with a lamb and langoustine dishes as well as fresh old Johann, who showed us around. This
number of hairpin turns, the view to the fish from the fjord. Many dishes are seasoned house is where my grandparents lived until
fjord is absolutely magnificent and should with mountain herbs, hand picked from the
not be missed. Photo opportunities abound mountains above the fjord every summer.
and the immensit y of the panora mic Collected specially for the restaurant,
proportions will present a challenge for even these fragrant flowers and herbs give Hotel house a homey 50s or 60s charm that makes
the best professional photographers. Aldans signature dishes their distinctive it so remarkable. Six comfortable bedrooms
flair. This classy restaurant is perfect for a sleep a total of 22 people and there is large,
Where to stay romantic summer evening dinner in elegant fully-equipped kitchen where guests can do
Hotel Aldan is a small, upscale hotel located surroundings on the edge of the fjord. their own cooking.
in what used to be the bank of Seyisfjrur Htel Aldan EMV Eyjlfsstair EMV
for almost a century. Elegantly furnished with are sure to be a popular cosy nook for children.
antiques imported from Denmark and soft Immaculately clean rooms with quality linens Norurgtu 2 710 Seyisri Eyjlfsstum 765 Djpivogur
furnishings from India, the bedrooms are the and down duvets add a touch of luxury. +354 472 1277 +354 478 8971
picture of gentle relaxation in an historical Hotel Snfell off ers an aff ordable hotel hotelaldan@simnet.is foss@heima.is

setting. Several of the rooms boast adjoining option in town, with a total of 9 rooms in www.hotelaldan.com www.djupivogur.is/eyjolfsstadir

sleeping quarters in a recessed alcove, which a charming timber house from 1908. It is

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East Iceland

Common Shelduck, drake

Black Guillemot

Sanderling in summer plumage

Red-throated Divers displaying

Northern Shoveler, pair

A Birdwatchers
paradise
Djpivogur to Ln, a top site for birds in South East Iceland

T he mu n icipa l it y of Djpivog u r
( B er u f jru r, l f t a f jru r,
Hamarsfjrur and Papey island), together
Th e area around Djpivogur is unique
and in the recent years, the municipality
has developed facilities for birdwatchers.
In Berufjrur, west of Djpivogur,
Harlequin Duck can be found at the outlet
of River Foss in the bottom of the fjord and
To the south of Djpivogur there are two
shallow fjords which support a wide range of
birds, Hamarsfjrur and lftafjrur. They
flocks of Common Scoter can be found on
the sea here and Velvet Scoter, White-winged
Scoter and Surf Scoter are regularly found
birds. The largest concentrations are during
spring migration and during the late
summer and autumn moult. Greylag Goose,
with Ln and the vottrskriur and Information boards, birdwatching hides on other rivers in the area. are important stopovers for birds like geese, in these f locks. Huge f locks of moulting Eurasian Wigeon and Common Eider are
Hvalsnesskriur scree slopes, is one of the and a website are some of things being Papey is easy to visit and there are regular Whooper Swans and waders. Up to 3,600 Common Eider are also found here in late also common here.
top five birding sites in Iceland. The largest done to help visiting birdwatchers get boat trips out to the island in summer. Black-tailed Godwits have been recorded in summer and species like Long-tailed Duck, Reindeer are common in the area and can
and most diverse concentrations of birds the most out of their visit. Th e Common The island is 2 km 2 and marshy, and is lftafjrur in a single count and it is one Harlequin Duck and Black Guillemot feed be seen all year, although most frequently
occur on eutrophic coastal lakes, mudflats, Shelduck, a recent colonist in Iceland, has surrounded by a few smaller islands. The of the main stopover sites for this species in in this nutrient-rich sea. in winter and spring. Common Seal are also
and the shallow waters, some of which become established here in recent years. birdlife is dominated by seabirds. Large Iceland. The fjords are important moulting Moving further west you come to the widespread and breeds in vottreyjar, but
hold internationally important numbers Other breeders include Horned Grebe, numbers of Atlantic Puffin (estimated sites for the Greylag Goose, and the Common shallow fjord or brackish Ln lagoon which they are difficult to approach.
of birds, as well as the bird cliffs on the Red-throated Diver, Northern Shoveler, 200,000 pairs), Brnnichs Guillemot, Shelduck has started breeding here, as it has attracts the densest population of Whooper
deserted island Papey, six km offshore Northern Pintail, Long-tailed Duck and Common Guillemot, Razorbill and Black- done in Djpivogur. Swans in the world. This is one of the greatest Papey, Hamarsfjrurlftafjrur and Ln
from Djpivogur. The coastal lowlands Rock Dove. During the migration season legged Kittiwake breed here. The island also To the south of lftafjrur, the road wonders in Icelandic nature. Whooper Swans are all listed as Important Bird Areas (IBA) by
are sparsely populated by sheep farmers, birds like Red K not, Sa nderling a nd has wetlands which support a range of birds. traverses a series of scree slopes which drop can be found here all year and at certain times BirdLife International. A useful website on birds
and most of the inhabitants live in a small Ruddy Turnstone are common on the A recent colonist is the European Shag and steeply to the sea, known as vottrskriur of the year up to half the Icelandic population and birdwatching in Djpivogur is www.birds.is
fi shing village, Djpivogur. mudfl ats around Blandsnes. the European Storm-petrel has bred there. and Hvalsnesskriur. During the summer, may be present here, approximately 10,000 Text and photos Jhann li Hilmarsson

298 299
 M a r g re t , w ho i s a n a c c ompl i s he d
professiona l chef from Germany, a lso
grows her own herbs and lettuce and raises
her own chickens on the property. The
extensive lunch and dinner menu offers

Neskaupstaur Quintessentially German traditional German home cooking using

the freshest of Icelandic ingredients, and
East Icelands Exceptional Small Hotel-Restaurant you can be absolutely sure of an excellent

T he antique wooden clock strikes nine view, the food, the dcor, the architecture, and copious meal.

Images by Tim Vollmer

in the evening and we are just finishing a kitchen garden and even its own clutch of L o ok i n g out at t he s c ener y, I a m
up an enjoyable meal with Irish coffee and egg-laying hens. Spectacularly situated in the already dreaming about returning again
a delectable cheesecake from the kitchen of foothills of the mountain ridge that separates s o on, but ne x t t i me , I m de f i n ite ly
Margret Bekemeier, chef and owner of Hotel- Breidalsvk and Stvarfjrur, the hotel bringing my husband.
Restaurant Margrt. overlooks the Bay of Breidal (Breidalsvk). Caf Margrt EMV
Reminiscent of a Swiss chalet, the hotel Its hard to imagine a more picturesque
is made from Finnish pine inside and out and cosy location for a holiday in Iceland. verhamri 760 Breidalsvk
and is entirely furnished with antiques Although there are only 4 rooms, all with +354 475 6625
brought over from Germany. private bath, the hotel can sleep up to 11 cafemargret@simnet.is

T h i s e xc e pt ion a l s m a l l hot e l h a s guests comfortably, making this undoubtedly none

absolutely everything going for itthe the smallest hotel in Iceland.

Eskifjrur Reyarfjrur

Home Away from Home

decide to head over to the restaurant and
caf to try the cafs speciality, real Belgian

Hj Marlns hostel and caf encourage you to stay longer

waff les made by Marleen, who is herself
Belgian and who owns the hostel with her

O n a residential street in Reyarfjrur With fi fteen rooms that can sleep one to
stand three houses that belong to three people each and options for sleeping
Hj Marln, less of a hostel and more of a bag or made up beds, Hj Marlns friendly
husband. Two larger rooms open onto a
balcony and other guests can enjoy a house
balcony to view the ranges of mountains
home away from home. atmosphere will encourage travellers to stay that surround Reyarfjrur.
in Reyarfjrur just that little bit longer. KB
Hj Marln
Each house has a living room with its own
library, television, and a selection of DVDs. Vallargeri 9 730 Reyarfjrur
One of the houses has a sauna installed for +354 474 1220
much needed relief of tired muscles after a bakkagerdi@simnet.is

long day spent hiking. Guests can prepare www.bakkagerdi.net

their own meals in a spacious kitchen or

Fskrsfjrur 301
East Iceland

Reindeer and Northern Lights Dinner at a local home.

Meet the Locals
Skiers can descend the slopes of the East w it h a whole ne w way of li fe. Some
In this tour you will get the Iceland Alps, while other visitors can simply After eventful days, guests are welcomed foreigners who visited the area, decided

An Unforgettable Winter Adventure with Local People

opportunity to explore the regions life take in the beauty of their surroundings. to dinner by a local family or treated to a to settle down and stay.
and traditions, while enjoying winters Avid skiers also have a chance to ski from restaurants specialities, such as reindeer

I n the mild Icelandic winter, the Eastern

Fjords are blanketed with a ref lective
stillness that falls over the land with the snow.
midst of the rich scenery of the landscape.
Those wishing to get an authentic experience
of Eastern Iceland, should Meet the Locals,
specia l cha rm s. Rei ndeer a re k now n
to w a nder on t he snow y mou nt a i n s
i n s e a rc h of fo o d a nd t he Nor t her n
mountaintop to the sea with expertly trained
local guides. In this winter tour, advanced
skiers can ski the slopes while others enjoy the
meat, lamb or f ish, ser ved by friendly
sta f f. The glow of roa ring ca mpf ires
a nd c a nd lel ig ht on Mje y r i s be ac h
An Icelandic-style Farewell
On the last day of the tour, ever yone
gathers to party like a local with dinner,
The Eastern coastline possesses naturally in a 3 to 5 day package tour, being offered by Lights lighten up the dark nights with snow or a warm cup of chocolate in the hut. illuminates conversation and provides dancing, and samples of Icelandic shark
calm harbours created by its fjords. Impressive the local agency, Tanni Travel. a stunning natural light show. guests the opportunit y to share their and schnapps passed around. We want our
mountains tower over them, earning the area Focused on simple travel and meaningful Visitors become involved in the history Tradition and Culture experiences with each other. visitors to leave feeling, not like tourists,
the nickname of East Icelands Alps. experiences, these innovative tours are and traditions of the region. Festivals, such No trip to the East Fjords is complete The pack a ge includes free trips to but a part of our town, says Hildigunnur.
O f f t he m a i n ro a d , R oute 1, t he designed to connect visitors with the culture as Easter and Christmas are shared on the without driving Norfjrurs scenic route museums that will give visitors more insight Before travelling back to Reykjavik or
road to the East Fjords stays open year and winter traditions of Eastern Iceland, tour, as locals teach visitors how to make with its avalanche defences built to protect into different aspects of town life including through the rest of Iceland, the mountains
round enabling visitors to embark on an allowing each to get his or her personal view traditional food and handicrafts for winter. residents from heavy snows and enjoying the histor y of f ishing at Eski f jrurs are sure to restore a sense of tranquillity
unforgettable winter adventure. of this unique winter retreat. the beautiful scenery from the town. In Maritime museum and, at Nor fjrurs to guests looking for a winter retreat.
Everything from lodging and meals to Skiing for All Levels of Expertise Norf jrur a friendly farming couple, museum, about the areas local flora, fauna Fjarabygg
Meeting the Locals transportation and activities are included, giving Winter in the East means skiing season in Doddi and Thea, run a horse rental. Thea and culture, including contemporar y
Winter Tours around the East Fjords of visitors the benefit of local knowledge without Oddsskar, or Odds pass. Recently, the also runs a gallery at the farm, specialising paintings by Icelandic artists. Hafnargata 2 730 Reyafjrur
Iceland are now available for booking. the hassle of figuring out where to go. We want East Fjords have become known for their in sculptures of the Icelandic horse. Be Reyarfjrurs World War II museum +354 470 9000
Visitors, choosing from a variety of different everyone to feel a part of the community while exceptional ski area, where ski lifts at prepared for a nice cup of coffee and a cata log ues life during t he wa r, when fjardabyggd@fjardabyggd.is

tours, can travel around the diverse East they are here, says Hildigunnur Jrundsdttir, Oddsskar take visitors over 800 metres friendly chat. Doddi and Thea are known troops from several nations came through www.fjardabyggd.is

Fjords, enjoying the local culture in the Tanni Travels product manager. for a spectacular view of the area. for their great hospitality. the region, f looding traditional towns

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East Iceland

Between Mountains and Fjord

Reyarfjrurs Fjararhtel opens up the beauty of the area
F jararhtel, a hotel in the middle of
Reyarfjrur, which lies close to both
fjord and mountains, provides ample room
groups will find this hotel well-suited for
their needs. All rooms feature an en suite
bathroom, free wireless Internet access and
for conferences or special occasions. With a television. Guests are a short walk from
room for 20 to 50 people, large and small Reyarfjrurs expansive fjord and mountain
hiking trails, which Fjararhtels friendly
staff will happily direct guests to.
Fjararhtels restaurant melds local
Icelandic fare like fi sh, lamb and beef with
the fl avours of a steak house, with entres
like fl aming lamb crown alongside mouth-
watering Western steak and spare ribs. Of
course, no Icelandic restaurant would be
complete without dishes of freshly caught
f ish featured da ily. Fja ra rhtel a lso
features a well-rounded selection of wines,

The Mystery of Randulfs Sea House

spirits and beer.
Fjararhtel KB

Mjeyri Travel Service reveals Eskifjrur, past and present hunting, nature hikes and bird watching Bareyri 6 730 Reyarri

T he saga of Randulf s Sea House is one

of the most unusual and remarkable
stories in Iceland today. Built in 1890 by
Dine back in Time tours and skiing in winter. Tailor made tours
Mjeyri Travel Service organises tours according to your wishes, can be arranged.
and events at Randulf s Sea House, now
+354 474 1600
info@fjardarhotel.is
www.fjardarhotel.is

the Norwegian fisherman Peter Randulf, the operating as a restaurant within a museum. Iceland Spar
building was used for landing and processing Visitors can tour this fascinating building It has been speculated that the sunstone
herring, as well as providing fishermen with and afterwards enjoy a traditional meal with mentioned in medieval Icelandic texts French fishermen. A luxury 4-star hotel is
lodging in the upstairs quarters. starters such as fermented shark, dried fi sh was Iceland spar and that Vikings used planned for the old hospital built in 1903,
A fter the demise of the herring era and herring on rye bread, chased by a shot of its light-polarizing property to tell the which includes the French consulate and
in 1930, the Sea House sat unused and brennivn. The menu includes dishes made direction of the sun on cloudy days, for doctors offices and will be ready for visitors
abandoned for almost 80 years. When it with ingredients from around the fjord. Try navigationa l purposes. T he minera l, in the spring of 2014.
was finally opened in 2008, the interior was the reindeer meatballs with rice and chili k now n for merly a s Ic ela nd Cr y st a l,
found untouched and perfectly preserved sauce or the smoked and cured reindeer i s note wor t hy for it s e x t r a ord i n a r y
as if frozen in time. Upstairs, trousers were with salad and blueberry sauce. Traditional properties of double refraction, which was
still hanging on hooks, several pairs of fish, meat soups, and roast East Iceland lamb studied at length by prominent scholars
boots were left under the bunk beds and a can also be provided for group lunches or such as Christiaan Huygens and Sir Isaac
large collection of letters to loved ones on dinners with advanced booking. Newton. Intriguing visits to Helgustair
the continent were discovered. Curiously, As a travel service, Mjeyri offers a wide Cave, where Icelandic spar was mined
no Icelander had ever seen the inside of the variety of activities in the area, including from the 17th 20 th centuries are made
building until it was opened in 2008. boat rental, reindeer watching and/or possible with Mjeyri Travel Ser vice,
guidance and equipment included.

The French Connection

Mjeyri Travels striking summer houses
stand tall against the jaw droppingly

Alive and well at Caf Sumarlna in Fskrusfjrur

beautiful background of the setting sun A popular stop for French tourists, the
beyond the mountains. Owners Berglind French Museum of Fskrusf jrur is
and Svar welcome you to spend a day, a
week, a month on the blissfully tranquil
shores of Eskifjrur in East Iceland.
I n operation since 2002, Caf Sumarlina on
the Eastern Fjord of Fskrusfjrur is well
known for their Belgian waffles with whipped
Fskrufjrur has a rich history and dedicated to the memory of thousands of
is t w inned w it h t he French tow n of French and Belgian sailors who played an
Gravelines in the North of France (Pas-de- important role in the history of the area.
EMV cream and their sweet/savoury French crepes. Calais). Between 1800 and 1910, record EMV
Mjeyri Gistiheimili Caf Sumarlna
Other specialities include creamed seafood on numbers of French and Belgian fi shermen
Strandgtu 120 735 Eskiri toast, a variety of pizzas, lamb fillet and cod arrived here to unload their catches, with Bavegi 59 750 Fskrsri

+354 477 1247 dishes, to name a few. The caf-restaurant around 5,000 men coming every year. +354 475 1575
mjoeyri@vortex.is sits just by the harbour on the fjord and on The town has undertaken a project to sumarlina@simnet.is
www.mjoeyri.is calm, sunny days, the view of the mountains rebuild and restore a number of important www.sumarlina.123.is

surrounding the 15 km long fjord is spectacular. historical buildings that were used by the

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East Iceland
Whether you want to picnic beside Lake Mvatn or climb the glaciers above Skaftafell
Vatnajkull National Park A Guidebook is your ideal companion. The handy little
tome provides essential and thorough information about all the best sights in the park.
Available in Icelandic, English and German.

Sleep by the Seashore

Give Yourself a Break at Saxa Guesthouse and Caf
I n the Saxa Guesthouse in
Stvarfj rur, you can be sure to be
lulled to a good nights sleep. Located next
drinks. The rooms are different sizes and
some have a lounge area.
Caf Saxa serves soup of the day, light includes fi shing in the fjord is the obvious
to the harbour, where the soft sound of the choice, lingering on the water, f ishing
meals, cakes and quality coffee all day long.
waves matches the rhythm of your heart, it A lso, ju st a stones t h row away is gear in hand, while enjoying view of the
off ers a beautiful view of the fjord and the
majestic Slur Mountain.
a nice restaurant with an art ga ller y,
Gallery Snrs; the famous Petras Stone
mountain range inland.
The mountains surrounding the village
A wonderful pocket guide
If you are lucky you might be able to catch and Mineral Collection an amazing have a few surprising treats for those who Eric Hansen, reporter for The New York Times
the mists glowing in the midnight sun while like hiking and photography. In Jafnadalur,
collection of stones natural to Iceland and,
it lingers briefly by the fjords estuary or as throughout the summer, youll also find the valley extending from the village, is the
they roll down the mountain slopes in huge, the Salthsi handicrafts market, which isrocky formation of Einbi where you will
white boulders. Stvarfjrur is sure to popular with Icelanders. find the most beautiful natural stone bridge
provide you with ample photo opportunities. Apart from being a fishing community, in Iceland and the river Stvar with quite
The guesthouse was renovated quite a number of the most beautiful waterfalls.
Stvarfjrur has a vibrant art community.
recently and has fourteen bright and airy If you wish to take an easy stroll along
In the former fishing factory, young artists are
rooms, with soft, comfortable beds, en suite developing the Mupimup creativity centre. the seashore you are sure to come upon
bathrooms with a shower and free WiFi Sa x a (wh ic h t he g ue st hou se der ive s
Internet. It also includes a communal TV Activities in the Area it s n a me f rom) a n at u r a l re c yc l i n g
lounge, an in-house Caf and a terrace, There is a lot to do in Stvarfjrur. phenomenon collecting driftwood and
where guests can relax with their chosen For leisure activities, a boat trip which scrap from the ocean, grinding it to pieces
and throwing it into the air.
So, treat yourself a nd spend a few
days at this wonderful guesthouse, while
enjoying the nature surrounding it.
Saxa Guesthouse SS

Fjararbraut 41 755 Stvafjrur

+354 511 3055

saxa@saxa.is
www.saxa.is

306 Friends of Vatnajkull - nonprofit association supporting Vatnajkull national park

East Iceland

What One
Woman Can Do She brought the beauty of her land to the world

A TRIBUTE TO front door and up to the mountains above

LJSBJRG PETRA MARIA SVEINSSDTTIR

her home to conduct her searches, often
with several of her children in tow.
In t he pa st 30 yea rs, hundreds of
24 December 1922 - 10 January, 2012 thousands of visitors of all nationalities

T he grand lady of Stvarfjrur passed

away on 10th January, 2012 at the age of
89, having lived a life devoted to a passion for
in preparation for the thousands of visitors
who come every summer. The garden is
cleaned of leaves and debris that collects
h a v e v i s i t e d Pe t r as c o l l e c t i o n o n
display in her home at Sunnu h l in
Stvarfjrur. Visitor numbers reached
collecting. Her remarkable stone collection is over the winter and then each stone is put a zenith in 2003 with 20,000 people
a testament to the vastness of the geology of back in its rightful placea major job passing through the exhibition. During
East Iceland. Her remarkable life, filled with that takes weeks to accomplish. this name is rarely used in Iceland and so is July and August, it is not uncommon Th is award is for the stones and not for in rea lising her d rea m of being able
the beauty of humility and simplicity. Still, just looking around we can seequite remarkable that Petras parents chose for 200 to 300 visitors to be viewing the myself and it is the stones that should be to express her love of nature. We are
To describe Petra as an avid collector this name for her. Even as a small child,
rocks on practically every surface of Petras collection at the same time. It is the most getting the award, not me!. After some indebted to Petra and now her children
is an understatement and, visiting her Petra had a tremendous drive, as well as an
rather small house, the entirety of which popular tourist attraction of East Iceland. persuasion from her family and friends, she and grandchildren, who have opened their
home, you will see why. It is thought to uncanny knack for finding beautiful stones,
is lined with shelves displaying this most In spite of all the interest that Petras fi nally decided to go and had a lovely time. hearts, their lives and their home, to share
be the largest private stone collection in amazing collectionwhich overfl ows out finding her first geode at the age of 7. collections have garnered, she was not Petra once rema rked, I remember one womans passion for the beauty to be
the world. I asked her grandson, Ivar, if into her front and back gardens and around For t h e f i r s t t w o d e c a d e s of h e r completely at ease with all the attention feeling so frustrated at not being able found in the geology of East Iceland.
it had ever been counted No, he says, the sides, going up behind the house forcollecting work, Petra wa s restricted her lifes work brought to her. In 1995, to write a song or a poem about all the Petras Stone Museum
EMV
they are quite difficult to count. Some of about 100 metres. There could easily be to sea rch ing t he nor t h slope s of t he the then President of Iceland, Vigds beauty of Gods creation that I have been
Images by Tim Vollmer

those more delicate have crumbled over 100,000 stones here. At least! mountains in Stvarf jrar. Prior to Finnbogadttir, invited Petra to a special blessed to see. There is just so, so much Fjararbraut 755 Stvarfjrur
the years, making the job of counting 1962, travel in Iceland was very difficult; dinner at the presidential residence at variety, it is truly astounding. +354 475 8834
each and every individual stone almost Living up to her name the roads were primitive and there was Bessastair, where Petra was to be awarded If the entries in the museums guest petrasveins@simnet.is

impossible. We do, however, give all the The name Petra is from the Greek word no br id g e ove r t he St v a r R i ve r. the prestigious Order of the Falcon. Petra book are anything to go by, then it is www.steinapetra.is

stones a good clean each year in the spring petros, meaning rock or stone. However, Nevertheless, she simply walked out her initially declined the invitation saying, clear that Petra has indeed succeeded

308 309
 Just Begging to be Explored
Breidalur Valley of East Iceland

T he East of Iceland is renowned for its

unique geological formations and for its
magnificent variety of semi-precious stones
paths, making them more accessible and safe
for hikers with the use of a GPS system.
Uncountable waterfalls descend from

Breidalsvk and minerals due, in part, to natural erosion

by the elements. Breidalur Valley shares in
this rich heritage that is often overlooked by
mainstream tourists and as one of Icelands
Breidalurs many peaks, and just about every
farm in the valley is backed by its very own
private waterfall.
There are wonderful picnic spots around
scholarsProfessor Stefan Einarsson, and
Dr. George P. Walker.
hidden treasures, the wide and verdant valley the valley as well as opportunities for horse Stefan Einarsson was a prolific writer,
is just begging to be explored. riding and salmon fishing and you can camp linguist and grammarian who taught for
There are many old hiking trails that criss- just about anywhere that is not farm land. many years at Johns Hopkins University
cross the Breidalur district which have been The Gamla Kaupflag which dates from in Baltimore and received Icelands highest
used for centuries as postal routes and walking 1906, is Breidalsvk s oldest building honour, the Order of the Falcon in 1939.
paths that once connected the isolated villages. and was recently renovated to house the A n adopted son of Breidalur, the
In an effort to open the district to more tourism, districts Heritage and Geology Museum. world-renowned British vulcanologist, Dr.
a local hiking group has started an ongoing The museum showcases the lives and George P. Walker, spent many years doing
project of mapping and marking the ancient works of two of Breidalurs most famous research in East Iceland, particularly in
the Breidalur Valley. He was one of a few
foreigners to receive the Icelandic Order of
the Falcon (the equivalent of a knighthood),

Images by Tim Vollmer

conferred upon him by the President of
Iceland in 1977.
Both men contributed much to their
respective fields of research and the unique
exhibitions are full of fascinating details and
artifacts from their life and work.
Breidalshreppur EMV

svegur 32 760 Breidalsvk

+354 470 5560

hreppur@breiddalur.is
www.breiddalur.is

311
East Iceland

Comfortable Htel Blfell

pay tribute to the memory of this historic

Embraced by the Nature of East Iceland

building which has been a part of life in

Small town charm in an historical setting

Breidalfjrur since 1956.

Fishing, Hiking and Hunting in the Tranquility of Breidalur Valley with the Elves and Trolls
A t the harbour on one of East Icelands
numerous winding fjords, lies the
country Htel Blfell in the tiny fishing
The unspoilt beauties of Breidalur
Breidalur Valley shares in the rich heritage
of E a st Icela nd of ten overlooked by T here are still many areas of Iceland
that have, for whatever reason, not
that guests often wake up to see a herd
of reindeer grazing right outside their
village of Breidalsvk, pop. 139. The mainstream tourists and, as one of Icelands yet attracted too much in the way of mass- window. In the small stand of trees behind
family run, log cabin style hotel is imbued hidden treasures, the wide and verdant valley tourism. Breidalur Valley in East Iceland the hotel, small birds fl it from branch to
with the scent of fresh pine that greets you is just begging to be explored. Uncountable is just one of those places. As remote as branch, singing and chattering.
as you enter. In the lounge, guests can relax waterfalls descend from Breidalurs many it is beautiful, the valley has only a few Owner/manager Arnar Stefnsson tells
on lovely sprawling leather sofas with a nice peaks, and just about every farm in the valley farms scattered here and there and you can me that many tourists ask him if this is the
cup of tea, or make use of the free wi-fi is backed by its very own private waterfall. easily have the entire valley pretty much to right place to see elves and trolls. I always
connection. Each of the recently renovated Picnic spots abound in the valley, as yourself. There are a good variety of marked tell them, yes, this is exactly the right place!
30 standard, family or deluxe rooms, comes well as opportunities for horse riding and trails which are excellent for day hikes and Hte l St a a rb or g i s for merly t he
with private bath, tv and telephone. salmon fishing and you can camp just about you will also find three of Icelands most schoolhouse in Breida lur which has
Htel Blfell is known for its down-to- anywhere that is not farm land. beautiful fi shing rivers, Breidals and its now been thoroughly renovated and can
earth home-style cooking, offering its guests can browse the well-stocked gift shop, attractive waterfall Beljandi, the Tinnudals accommodate 54 people in 30 spacious
a full menu of satisfying traditional Icelandic bursting with arts and crafts made by local A most fascinating museum River and Norurdals River. While autumn rooms complete with private facilities and
and international favourites. Owners Fririk townspeople, including beautiful hand- The Gamla Kaupflag is Breidalsvks is an ideal time for hunting geese, ptarmigan television. Sleeping bag accommodation and
rnason and Hrafnhildur Hafsteinsdttir and knitted sweaters, paintings, decorative items oldest building (1906), housing the districts and even reindeer, fishing for brown trout is a camping site is also available.
their staff are more than happy to help with and souvenirs. The caf offers a selection of Heritage and Geology Museum, where possible throughout the year. The hotels restaurant serves la carte meals The hotel is located on Route 1, about 7 km
suggestions of what to see and do in the area. light meals such as sandwiches, salads, soups the lives and works of two of Breidalurs So where to stay while surrounded by so and refreshments are available throughout from the village of Breidalsvk. It is 625 km
In the summer of 2011, Fririk and with fresh bread, as well as a variety of home most famous scholars are showcased: much natural beauty? Htel Staarborg, the day. Facilities at Htel Staarborg include from Reykjavk and 75 km from Egilsstair.
Hrafnhildur opened the Kaupfjelag Caf baked cakes and pastries. Decorated with Stefan Einarsson, prolific writer, linguist of course! So deep is the peace and quiet a jacuzzi and a grassy sports field. The hotel is also an ideal stop for those who
and Tourist Information Centre, just a a collection of vintage memorabilia from and grammarian and the world-renowned are travelling by the Norraena ferry, as it is only
few metres from the hotel, where guests the towns residents, Fririk and Hildur British volcanologist Dr. George P. Walker about 100 km from Seyisfjrur.
who spent many years doing research in So will you finally get a glimpse of one of
and around Breidalur Valley. Both are those elusive elves or trolls here in the natural
recipients of the distinguished Order of the paradise that is Breidalur Valley? Youll have
Falcon, Icelands highest honour. to find the answer to that one yourself!
Htel Blfell EMV Htel Staarborg EMV

Slvllum 14 760 Breidalsvk Staarborg 760 Breidalsvk

+354 475 6770 +354 475 6760

info@hotelblafell.is stadarborg@simnet.is
www.hotelblafell.is www.stadarborg.is

312 313
 Tim Vollmer
The Gateway to East Iceland
Forget Reykjavik! Djpivogur is the Real Iceland
F or the last 20 years or so, the population
of many small towns and villages across
distinguishing landmarks is Blandstindur,
which presides over the town with its

Djpivogur Iceland has been declining drastically.

Recently, however, many talented young
people have returned to raise their families
in Djpivogur. Evidence of this trend is
perfect pyramid-shaped peak.
Th e heart of Djpivogur is its harbour
a nd t he poi nt f rom wh ic h m a ny a n
interesting day of exploration begins.
readily visible at the towns kindergarten Just by the docks you will f ind the
where 36 children between the ages of 1 oldest house, L a nga b, which dates
and 5 are enrolled. Compare this with the back to 1790. The deep red and black
grade school where the total population timber house serves as a cultural centre
of kids ages 6 through 15 is 55 and you and heritage museum dedicated to the
get the idea. The innumerable benefits of sculptor Rkarur Jnsson and politician
living so close to nature in one of Icelands Eysteinn Jnsson, who was instru mental people who call Djpivogur home, such
many enchanting small villages is gradually a s c lot h i n g a nd a c c e s s or y de si g ner,
in transforming Iceland into a prosperous,
gaining new ground. independent republic. Coffee, tea and gusta Arnardttir, semi-precious stone
collector, Auunn Ba ldursson and an
homemade cakes are served in the centres
Explore Nature and History overview of Djpivogurs specialists in
coffee shop, which is open daily in summer.
Djpivogur is a compact little village with accommodation, Hotel Framt.
a population of only about 460 inhabitants, A Home to Talent In su m m ing up li fe in Djpivog u r,
set at the mouth of both Berufjrur and By the following pages, you will f ind one p oi g n a nt ph r a s e w r it t e n by a n
Hamarsfjrur fjords. One of the areas articles about a few of those ta lented ent hu sia st ic blog ger come s to mind:
For g e t R e y k ja v i k , t h i s i s t he R e a l
Iceland. I couldnt agree more.

Djpavogshreppur EMV

Bakka 1 765 Djpavogi

+354 478 8288

djupivogur@djupivogur.is
www.djupivogur.is

315
 Fashion
design
goes
all-natural
W ith so much emphasis placed on
using only local ingredients these
days, it should come as no surprise that
Iceland. The f ish leather is strong yet
soft and can be dyed to the designers
specifications. gsta takes things one step
one fashion designer has come up with the further with the inclusion of reindeer skin,
brilliant idea of putting to good use the seal skin and fur and even using strands of
by-products created by the food industry. horse tail, bones and horns for decorative
gsta Margrt Arnardttir, who has elements in her creations.
been developing her techniques over the last To celebrate Arfleifs first anniversary in
8 years, was one of the fi rst few designers March 2011, a new collection was premiered
in Iceland, if not the world, to see the at Reykjaviks Grand Hotel, with a fashion
tremendous potential in working with fi sh show entitled Fashion with Flavour. The
leather, which is ideally suited for clothing dinner menu, featuring dishes of fish, lamb Definition: Ecomuseum
and accessories. Each type of skin has its and reindeer was served by models dressed An Economuseum is a new concept
own character and personality which I try in Arfleif designed clothes and it has been dedicated to the preservation of authentic
to bring out in my designs. The materials non-stop for gsta ever since. techniques or know-how used in the
are so changeable that I am always learning The Arfleif Artisan Workshop, gstas production of traditional craft or foods and
something new and I get the inspiration to home and atelier in Djpivogur, is open is an important part of cultural tourism.
create based on this experience, much in the to the public seven days a week. Visitors
same way that an artist is inspired by various can learn about the craft, its history and Areif EMV
mediums, explains gsta. development, chat directly with gsta and
The list of materials used in gstas watch the making of the items available in Hammersminni 16 765 Djpavogi
creations reads like a dinner menu: cod, perch, Arfleifs boutique. +354 863 1475
spotted wolfish, salmon, catfish and lamb. A rf leif is a member of the Econo- agusta@areifd.is

She uses skins that would have normally museum Artisan Network of Northern www.areifd.is

been discarded but which have rather Europe, and the fi rst Icelandic artisan to
been tanned at Atlantic Leather in North gain this distinction.
316 317
East Iceland

Hotel Framt of Djpivogur

is always the catch of the day, whether it
be cod, trout, halibut, haddock, redfi sh or

Accommodation for every budget

plaice. Other excellent menu items include
starters such as mussels (local of course),

I ts rather rare in Iceland to f ind so

many types of accommodation owned
by just one company, but Hotel Framt
meet ing room, t he re st au ra nt a nd 8
cosy bedrooms with shared and private
facilities on the upper floor.
cooked in white wine, an almost addictive
goose breast carpaccio and main dishes
such as the heavenly roast lamb fillet or
has got it all covered; kind of a one-stop The postcard setting for Hotel Framt grilled langoustine with garlic butter.
shop for all your accommodation needs, couldnt be more delightful. The restaurant Now that you are comfortably settled
right in the centre of Djpivogur. overlooks a small harbour with colourful into your lodging, youll want to spend
Facilities are centrally located within fi shing boats and even the passing sailing a day or two exploring Djpivogur and
the vicinity of the main building at the yacht. We joke that the fi sh in the harbour its surroundings. The Island of Papey,
harbour. There is a camp site, a separate are so close that they simply jump out of believed to be the home of Irish monks and
building for sleeping bag accommodation, the water and land directly on our plates. hermits before the Settlement, makes for
3 self-contained apartments which are great Owner Thorir explains, Well, its not an interesting day trip. The 2 km-square
for families and small groups and 4 brand- too far from the truth, as the fishermen island was inhabited until 1966 and is now
new self-contained cottages that sleep 2-3 are only going out maybe one kilometre home to many thousands of pairs of puffins.
persons each. The century-old main house from the harbour to fish. Only reachable by boat, tours to the island
boasts a new wing with 18 double rooms A favourite of tour guides in Iceland, leave the harbour daily at 13:00, returning
and en-suite bathrooms, a large breakfast/ the popular daily special at Hotel Framt at 17:00. Seals are often visible resting on
the skerries and tours to the island include a
guided hike and visit to Icelands oldest and
smallest 18th century wooden church.
Htel Framt EMV

Vogalandi 4 765 Djpavogi

+354 478 8887

framtid@simnet.is
www.simnet.is/framtid

318
East Iceland

East Iceland
a hiking haven

E ast Iceland is a magnificent wonderland

w here h i k er s , w a nderer s , bi rd-
watchers, kayakers and nature lovers find
There are guided tours up and around this
impressive volcano and the surroundings
offer some great sights, such as lush green
variety in coasts is phenomenal. Brightly
coloured pebble beaches, black sa nd
beaches of Vlavk, awesome sheer cliff s,
Around Egilsstair
For some shorter options, the Hiking
Pearls of Fljtsdalshra, the area around
everything their heart desires; wilderness, moss and springs, sparkling in between pristine f jords lined with eider ducks, Egilsstair give you some great possibilities.
solitude, challenge, new horizonsand for black sands. Herds of wild reindeer and old ruins of ancient farmsteads and the Dont miss the 40-minute climb to Icelands
some, even peace of mind. But more than pink-footed geese roam around. Nearby, occasional reindeer herd in deserted coves 2nd highest waterfall, Hengifoss, the
anything, East Iceland is known for great Brarjkull probably offers one of the easiest give you an out of this world feeling of beautiful basalt pillars of Litlanesfoss in
outdoor activities, hiking, riding, fi shing, accesses to explore a tremendous ice sheet. freedom and eternity. Then, finish with Fljtsdalur, or a stroll in the Hallormsstaur
exploring, and friendly fi shing villages for For the avid hiker, the SnfellLnsrfi a short hike to Helgustaanma, the old arctic birch forest. They are all truly
aprs adventure. trail, with stunning landscapes in the Iceland Spar mine in Eskifjrur. something to write home about, as are
Vatnajkull National Park, is a tempting
Hikes and treks for everyone a nd t r y ing solit a r y route across t he
Hiking is by far the East Iceland travellers Eyjabakkajkull glacier before dropping
best way to enjoy the refreshing wilderness. down to the the stunning L nsrf i
The region is renowned for interesting and highlands, and the view of expansive green
diverse routes, ranging from day hikes to valleys with countless waterfalls, such as enable you to have views of beautiful
adventure-rich multi-day treks. Good hiking Mt. SnfellLnsrfi Geithellnadalur, Hofsdalur or Vidalur. coastlines, mountain ridges, abandoned
maps of the whole region are available at Mt. Snfell, the 1833 extinct volcano and farmhouses, birdlife, arctic fauna and, with
Tourist Information Centres and a number Icelands highest mountain outside the a little luck, maybe even reindeer. The area
of paths have been marked for safer hiking glacier massif of Vatnajkull, presents a is known for colourful mountains and semi
and optimum enjoyment. magnificent view from the top. precious stones, as well as one of the best
places to watch puffins. Some of the best day
hikes are without a doubt to be found here,
including one of Icelands best kept secrets
the monumental Strur, a labyrinth of
enormous rocks through which a little river
winds its way and calm turquoise ponds
of icy water lie hidden among the huge
boulders, lined by flat banks of short, green
grass. Just the perfect way to enjoy the best
unspoilt, breathtaking nature.

Kverkfjll Sklanes the solitude of Hjlpleysa, the day hike

A tour to Kverkfjll, experiencing the unique For those preferring to enjoy a maritime by Stra-Sandfell, through mindblowing
interplay of ice and fire in the imposing view, a unique opportunity to experience monuments of the Ice Age. Enjoy a stroll at
surroundings, is an experience. Climb to the the beauty and calm of East Iceland are its Hsey or spend a day at Icelands strangest
hot spring valley for a magnificent view of fjords. Visit the wonderful Nature heritage beach, erribjrg, by the Hellisheii pass to
boiling mud springs melting a labyrinth of centre at Sklanes at the furthest shore Vopnafjrur. Visit the Elf-lady trail and the
caves through the great Vatnajkull glacier. of beautiful Seyisfjrur or enjoy the Earth history landbridge by the Bustarfell
Try soaking your sore feet in the warm ride to Mjifjrur, one of Icelands most folk museum in Vopnafjrur. This is to
volcanic waters flowing from the mouth of celebrated fjords, with the breathtaking name just a few of the wonderful options
the great Kverkfjll ice cave. Although the Klifurbrekkufossar waterfalls. open to you in this hikers paradise.
white giant looks peaceful enough, never East Iceland Marketing Of ce

forget that there are many dangers hidden Eskifjrur - Norfjrur
in the moving ice. Different, but no less attractive, is the Mivangi 1-3 700 Egilsstair
e a s t e r n m o s t p a r t , t h e G e r pi s s v i +354 472 1750
Vknaslir between Eskifjrur and Norfjrur, astathor@east.is

The 150 km marked paths of the Vknaslir where skyscraping peaks join forces with www.east.is

(Desert Inlets) in Borgarfjrur eystri, the heavy waves of the Atlantic. The great

320 321
 South Iceland
South Iceland has a long list of sights and activities ingvellir National Park

T
he wealth of South Iceland lies in the variety of geological,
historical and nature sites along with the long list of
activities that can be experienced in the region.
This region has geological wonders such as Geysir;
Map lafur Valsson

the Gullfoss, Hifoss, Skgafoss, Systra and Seljalandsfoss

waterfalls; ingvellir, where the tectonic plates crack the
Earth; Europes largest glacier, Vatnajkull; the Keri caldera;
world-famous volcanos like Hekla, the Gateway to Hell,
Lakaggar, Laki, the notorious Eyjafjallajkull and the Katla
Geopark; fantasy sites like rsmrk and Jkulsrln.
Here are historical sites like the worlds longest-running
parliament at ingvellir; museums, churches, the Stng
settlement, the Saga centre and villages like Eyrarbakki.
Activities abound. Tours take you to all the sites, including
the glaciers. Horse riding tours are popular. Try the riverjet,
boat trips or kayaking; scuba diving in clear waters, fishing
or caving. Independent travellers can try hiking and cycling,
camping or caravanning. Winter activites are just as thrilling.
Fortunately, there is plenty of accommodation available
throughout the region from camping to high-class
hotels and restaurants to suit every taste. A developed
infrastructure helps you get the most from your trips.

Lake Laugarvatn
Photos; courtesy of the South Iceland Marketing Office, Visit South Iceland.

322 323
The Icelandic puffin The great Geysir

Upside down on Mrdalsjkull glacier Strokkur is a fountain geyser in the great Geysir geothermal area
One of Icelands old turf houses in the south

Horticulture station Espiflt in Reykholt, rnesssla Peningagj (The Money Chasm ) in winter

Klfholt, a family run horse breeding farm

ingvellir National Park Hjlparfoss waterfall Happy goat at Hlmur Farm Zoo
 The Vast Vatnajkull
In the Realm of the Vatnajkull Glacier
T he re g ion d i re c t ly bene at h t he
Vatnajkull glacier is a 260 km long,
narrow stretch of land that spans from the
it. The beautiful Svartifoss waterfall, one of
the main attractions within the Vatnajkull
Nationa l Pa rk, is well k nown for its
west of Skaftafell National Park to the town underlying black basalt hexagonal columns. below sea level at the famous Jkulsrln
of Hfn on its eastern border. The lives of glacial lagoon260 metres at its deepest. As
people of the region have been shaped and a national park, its the largest in Europe.
moulded according to the dictates of nature,
in a region which, until as recently as the Points of interest
1970s, was one of the most isolated parts of Activities in the area are numeroustake

Hfn Iceland. The majority of its roughly 2,100

inhabitants live and work in Hfn, the areas
largest population centre; the rest are on
farms scattered throughout the region.
a snowmobile, jeep or hiking tour on the
glacier, cruise gently around blue-tinged
icebergs on a boat ride at Jkulsrln glacial
lagoon, observe puffins at Inglfshfi,
or get a birds eye view over the glacier on
A Photographers Dream a sightseeing flight. What could be more
Driving through this enchanted area, the Some impressive numbers magical than basking in the midnight sun,
vastness of the glacier, with its various glacier Vatnajkull is larger than all the glaciers in in the warm natural hot baths at Hoffell?
outlets, makes a compelling impression Europe combined, (there are smaller glaciers These are just a few of the possibilities in the
on the mind. The extensive views across in Norway and Russia) and is one of the Vatnajkull Region.
the black sands of Skeiarsandur towards largest glacier in the world outside of the
Skaftafellsjkull glacier leave one in awe of polar icecaps. It boasts the highest elevation Local Festivities
the glaciers sheer magnitude, relentless in in Iceland: Hvannadalshnkur at 2,115 m Taste some of those lovely langoustine dishes
its crushing effect upon the land beneath or 6,870 feet, as well as the lowest point during the annual Lobster Festival in Hfn,
late in June, and dont forget the not-to-be-
missed annual fireworks extravaganza at
Jkulsrln on in late August.
For more in-depth information about
Vatnajkull National Park, check out the
visitors centre, a major hub for hiking and
mountaineering expeditions in the area,
open year round.
Rki Vatnajkuls EMV

Litlubr 2 780 Hornari

+354 470 8084

info@visitvatnajokull.is
www.visitvatnajokull.is

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South Iceland

Sleep Under the Glacier In the Town of Hfn, Youll Sleep Below the Mighty Vatnajkull
I n the kingdom of the Vatnajkull region,
silence and grace surround the harbour
town of Hfn, as scenic views of the glacier
south-east. Sand bars and glacial rivers spread particularly largeincluding one sufficient
across the area with many shifting lagoons. for a family or group of fourwith a
character all their own, shaped by colourful
astonish passers by. The domineering presence Transforming Old into New art on the walls and seats moulded to A Guesthouse in Town Vatnajkull National Park and Jkulsrln happy to help arrange activities such as
of Europes largest glacier leaves people quite In early Spring 2011, Halldr Birgisson and look like hands. The f loor gives the feel Guesthouse Hvammur is another beautiful Glacier Lagoon are less than 1 hours drive. hiking, horse riding and bird watching.
amazedespecially when they learn of the Cristiane Oliveira started remodelling an of walking on a smooth pebbled beach, guesthouseowned by the same couple since
Many great hiking locations are in the area Hfn is the perfect place to base from when
community in Hfn living in such close old building. It has now been completely being made from stones found on Hfns 1999in the centre of the town, with views
and most mountains other than the very visiting South Iceland and the staff at both
proximity to this huge sheet of ice. rebuilt as a stylish accommodation in the beaches. Th is sense of style originates with over the harbour and glaciers to the west.
highest can be safely hiked in good weather. guesthouses are pleased to be of service.
Despite its name, which indicates a fjord, Hfn Inn Guesthouse. The restoration was owner, Cristiane, who hails from Brazil, There are 20 single, double or triple rooms
Northeast of Hfn is Lnsrfi, a wilderness Hfn Inn Gistiheimili SP
Hornafjrur itself is a very large lagoon completed perfectly, thanks to dedicated who wanted to add something different to and some which can accommodate a family.which is one of Icelands great hiking areas
with a blend of fresh and glacial water. The builders and the outcome, according to the dcor. All the rooms have an en-suite All rooms have cable TV and washbasin. perfect for day-long hikes. Lnsrfi is a part Rnarsl 2 780 Hfn
town of Hfn in Hornafjrur, located on both guests and owners, is truly excellent. bathroom, wireless Internet access, f lat- of Vatnajkull National Park, but not easily +354 478 1544
a peninsula in this south-eastern part of Located beside a petrol station on Route 1, screen TV and DVD player. The breakfast Hiking the Wilderness accessible from any other part of the park. info@hofninn.is

Iceland is surrounded on three sides by the this new property offers 24-hour check-in, buffet includes cereals, bread, cold cuts, The area surrounding Hfn has some Staff, both at Guesthouse Hfn Inn hofninn.is

sea, with beaches on the long shoreline on the f re e Wi-Fi a nd pa rk i ng. Room s a re along with hot and cold drinks. of the most stunning nature in Iceland. and Guesthouse Hvammur are more than

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South Iceland

Humarhfnin of Hfn Eating well in Hfn

popular signature hamburger is topped
with mounds of melted cheese, bacon,

Langoustine finds its niche in the New Icelandic Cuisine Kaffi Horni Hits the Spot
onions and mushrooms, and comes with a
generous portion of french fries. Another

I celand is known for some of the fi nest

fresh fi sh in the world and a large share
of the countrys catch is landed at Hfn
restaurant that can do justice to the lovely
little crustacean? Th is is the idea behind the
sea-food restaurant Humarhfnin which
K affi Horni in Hfn Hornafi ri has
a friendly, laid back atmosphere that
puts you at ease the moment you walk in
Specialties of the House fi lling lunch option is the legendary club
Chef Inglfur off ers a variety of absolutely sandwich, which is popular among locals.
fresh langoustine dishes including pasta
Hornaf iri, on the south-east coast. has been a big success since it was opened the door. The Finnish wooden interior with langoustine in a cognac-cream sauce, Craving vegetables
Hfn (which sounds like Hup to our 5 years ago by Anna orsteinsdttir, her and cosy tea lights fl ickering on each table roasted langoustine with vegetables and If somewhere along your way you didnt
brother Ari orsteinsson and their spouses. lend a feeling of warmth to this established garlic sauce, grilled langoustine with get your daily dose of fresh vegetables,
Po p u l a r w i t h t o u r i s t s f r o m t h e restaurant, which has been run by the same salad and even an intriguing langoustine Kaffi Horni offers a lunchtime soup with
Mediterranean countries, Humarhfnin couple, Inglfur Einarsson and Kristin pizza. Many of the seafood dishes come homemade bread and your choice of vegetables
is the only restaurant in Iceland that ladttir since it opened 13 years ago. with a fabulously crunchy Swiss rsti from the salad bar, available daily until 4 pm.
serves whole langoustine. (The concept Making use of the celebrated ingredients which attests to Inglfurs 2 years of chef Last, but not least, there is a fi ne selection
is so new in Iceland, that each diner who point out the very boat that brought in from the Vatnajkull region as much as training in Zermatt, Switzerland. of homemade cakes and desserts including
orders langoustine receives illustrated the days catch, moored at the docks just a possible, Kaffi Horni puts emphasis on organic ice cream from the nearby rbr
instructions on the finer points of using few hundred metres away. The building was the prized langoustine for which Hfn A hamburger calling? dairy farm. The addition of Icelandic
the lobster cracker and fork that come formerly the town co-op which has been is known. Not to be confused the North In case you are homesick for a hamburger, liquorice to many of the more ordinary
with the dish.) The menu was developed renovated and taken over by the restaurant. American lobster, langoustine is also called Kaffi Hornis thick and juicy hamburgers flavours like chocolate and vanilla turns this
and created by the French chef Jacques There is an exhibit of the history of the Dublin Bay prawns, Norway lobster or will fit the bill, easily putting others to ice cream into a uniquely Icelandic dairy
DuPont and many of his dishes, such as house, located on the 2nd floor. scampi and imparts a more delicate flavour shame. Made with 120g of pure Icelandic treat that is hard to resist.
the beautifully presented Mix of Whole and texture than their larger cousins. beef from nearby farms, Kaffi Hornis ever
L a n g ou st i ne a nd Ta i l s, t he f a mou s Confit Not to be missed
Black Magic Sauce and Duck Conf it Confit is one of the oldest methods used to preserve Located right on the main road that passes
have been very successful. Paired with food and is a speciality of south western France. through the centre of Hfn, Inglfur and
one of Humarhfnins specially selected It is mostly used to preserve the legs of cooked Kristn welcome you to pop in for a friendly
ducks and geese
wines, you are in line for an absolute meal whenever you are in town.
ears and means harbour) is also known feast. The crme brle, made from local Humarhfnin EMV Kaf Horni EMV
as the langoustine capital of Iceland, with eggs and imported Madagascar vanilla
a several thousand visitors in town over will have you swooning and you might Hafnarbraut 4 780 Hfn Hafnarbraut 42 780 Hfn
the first weekend in July for the annual want or need to order a double portion. +354 478 1200 +354 478 2600
Humarhti (Langoustine) Festival. The casual, bright and lively dcor fits info@humarhofnin.is kafhornid@eldhorn.is

So whats the langoustine capital of Huma rhfnins ha rbour location a nd www.humarhofnin.is www.kafhornid.is

Icela nd doing w it hout a f ine-d ining the friendly wait staff will be happy to

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South Iceland

On Top of
the World
A timid souls approach to the mighty Vatnajkull
T
Bed down for the night in the he weather report was looking gooda stop and dismount, to take in the magnificent
heart of the Vatnajkull district
at Vagnsstair Youth Hostel, just full day of sunshine ahead of me and panoramic views over the glacier, the Atlantic
28 km east of the Jkulsrln temperatures above 10C. I was on my way to Ocean and the town of Hfn far below in the
glacier lagoon. Sleeping bag a face to face encounter with the worlds 3rd distance. I felt like I was on top of the world
accommodation, linen rental,
a well equipped kitchen, dining largest glacier, the mighty Vatnajkull. This and it was truly a cause for celebration!
and lounge areas, as well as trip would mark a couple of firsts for memy Kristjn jokes that we cannot go onwards
3 fully equipped cottages are first time ever to set foot on a glacier, and my unless I drive. By now I am feeling a little
offered. There is a campground
with good sanitary facilities. first time to travel by snowmobile. Needless more sure of myself and agree to give it a
The coast, just 1500 m from to say I was really excited! try. This time we are off to inspect a massive
Vagnsstair provides numerous I first met Kristjn and Bjarney, of Glacier sheer rock face that rises straight up from the
possibilities for scenic walks and
bird watching. Maps of the area Jeeps, at our pre-arranged meeting place: the glacier at an elevation of 1200 metres. Finally,
are available at the hostel. crossroads of Route No.1 and F985. This our one hour snowmobile adventure comes to
is the official meeting place for all Glacier an end and it is time to return to Jklasel for
Jeep summer tours. Glacier Jeeps has years a well deserved bite to eat and a hot drink.
of experience conducting jeep, snowmobile The view out the restaurant windows is as one
and hiking tours on the glacier since 1994. would expect: magnificent.
(Bjarney has been helping run the family Glacier Jeeps also offers a hiking tour of the
business since she was 14 years old.) I parked glacier that comes with all the equipment such
my car and joined them in their sturdy 4WD as safety helmets, climbing irons and ice axe,
which wound its way slowly ever upwards, instruction and a guide, included in the price.
following the undulating gravel road, which In case you just dont think a strenuous
twisted and turned around hairpin bends, hike or a thrilling snowmobile adventure
past waterfalls and deep canyons. My guides is for you, then Glacier Jeeps offers an
fill me in on the details of the landscape, alternative to see the glacier in a comfortable,
pointing out how the glacier has crawled specially equipped 4WD and is available year
across the terrain, devastating everything in round, weather permitting. Each tour is only
its path along with other interesting facts. 3 to 4 hours in total, giving you plenty of time
Thirty minutes and 830 metres above sea to do other things with your day, even though
level later, we arrive at Jklasel, Icelands once you are up there you may not want to
highest restaurant and owned by Glacier come down. Although its best to book one
Jeeps. Jklasel will serve as our base camp day in advance, you can also just show up
where we suit up with boots, warm overalls at the crossroads (F985) at either 9.30 am or
and helmets for the snowmobile excursion. 2.00 pm and join the tour from there.
Now its time to test drive the snowmobiles.
I am a little hesitant at first and Kristjn shows Vatnajkull Glacier Jeep tours: a
me the ropes. It looks easy enough but I decide must for your bucket list!
that I prefer to let him drive over the glacier Glacier Jeeps EMV
with me sitting safely behind him on this
skidoo for two, at least until I get a better feel Silfurbraut 15 780 Hornafjrur
for it. Off we go over the wild white yonder, +354 478 1000
climbing high into the sun to paraphrase an glacierjeeps@simnet.is

old song, with cloudless blue skies above us www.glacierjeeps.is

and the wind in our faces. Further along we

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South Iceland

Discover an Ice-Blue World Oasis Under the Glacier The restaurant offers hot and cold light
meals from a good menu throughout the
Freysnes Supermarket and Restaurant opening hours from dawn till dusk. It is
at Jkulsrln Glacial Lagoon with Jkulsrln Boat Tours home-cooking, old and new style. At the

T here are few glacial lagoons existing

in the world today and certainly none
A Waffle with a View
Enjoy the spectacular view over the lagoon with proceeds going to Icelands volunteer
T he d r ive a lon g t he ste ep sout h
slopes of Vatnajkull glacier, from
Kirkjubjarklaustur to Hfn, is quite a
mere sight of the majestic glacier makes you
stop in your tracks. It is the largest glacier in
supermarket youll be able to obtain all the
essentials on your long driveor, even better,
Europe and one of the largest in the world. for your stay at the camp site at Skaftafell. The
more awe-inspiring and accessible than the in the small caf where traditional Icelandic search and rescue organization, ICESAR. stretch. Not just in kilometres, but also Half way between Kirkjubjarklaustur hiking trails around Freysnes and Skaftafell
renowned Jkulsrln Glacial Lagoon, situated waff les with rhubarb jam and whipped Located within a few hundred metres of due to the scenery along the road. It has and Hfn is Freysnes just 5 kilometres are one of a kind; to Bjarstaaskgur and
at the head of Breiamerkulljkull outlet cream are served throughout the day, as well Route No. 1, the lagoon is actually much troll-like mountains and ever changing from Skaftafell, an excellent camping to the glaciers edge, over moors which open
glacier on the peerless Vatnajkull Glacier. as homemade soup with bread, sandwiches, bigger and deeper than it appears. With an glaciers, glacial lakes, raging rivers, quiet site. At Freysnes, youll fi nd the Freysnes up breathtaking views to yet more stunning
cakes with coffee or tea which can be either area measuring approximately 24 square km streams, lava and sand fi elds, forests and Re st au ra nt, Superma rket a nd Pet rol glacial scenery and natural sculptures.
Sail Among the Icebergs

Images by Tim Vollmer

taken out on the terrace or consumed inside. (9.2 square miles), you could easily fit the extraordinary natural sculptures. Station, a welcome break and stop for all The trails are not difficult and it really is
Jkulsrln ehf has been operating boat island of Heimaey (in the Westman Islands) The area is within the Vatnajkull National those driving through the area, such as worth your while to stay in the area for a few
tours on the east side of the lagoon for the The Show of Fire and Ice into it with room to spare. At over 250 m Park, very popular with the Icelanders. The bus tours and truck drivers. days. Hurrying through would be a shame
last 25 years. Sail among the icebergs in a The magnificent annual fireworks display (820 feet) deep, four Leaning Towers of Pisa, not least if you like photography. Quite
40 minute amphibious boat tour, or take an over the lagoon can be described without stacked one on top of the other, would fit conveniently, you do not have to worry about
exciting 1 hour Zodiac boat tour that goes a doubt as one of the most memorable inside the lagoon with room to spare. food, because Freysnes Supermarket can
further into the lagoon, getting you as close fi reworks shows on earth. The event, held With the ebb and flow of the tides, sea provide you with everything you needor,
as is safe to the icebergs and the glacier itself. annually in late August, starts at 11.30 pm, water enters into the lagoon bringing with it if you dont want to do your own cooking,
krill, capelin, herring and salmon. Curious choose something nice from the restaurants
seals know where the food is plentiful and menu. Also, Freysnes and Skaftafell are a
can often be seen bobbing along with the short distance from such natural wonders as
currents, swimming in and out between the Jkulsrln (35 km), where you can take a
icebergs and appearing to enjoy the attention boat trip between the icebergs on the glacial
from onlookers on the shore. lake. There are quite a number of those glacial
Across the road, near the delta where fresh lakes along the way, each and every one
and salt water converge, you can walk down providing excellent photo opportunities. If
to the waters edge to witness the rather surreal ever there was a lovely place to refresh your
sight of baby bergs beached on the shoreline. soul on your fast pace through life, this is it.
Jkulsrln EMV Freysnes Restaurant & Shop
EMV

Reynivellir 3 781 Hfn Hornafjrur Freysnesi 785 rfum

+354 478 2222 +354 478 2242

jokulsarlon@jokulsarlon.is freysnes@gmail.com
www.jokulsarlon.is none

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South Iceland

Fantasy Tours
Iceland Excursions takes you to see other-worldly sites.
Y ouve no doubt seen Lord of the
Rings. It could well have been fi lmed
in Iceland. Besides being a land of elves,
landscape suddenly gives way to a spectacular
view of verdant farmlands stretching from
mountains, punctuated with steam spouts,
cliff and a completely new vista opens up:
the verdant area of Valaknkur, a veritable
Shangri-La, with its own micro-climate,
blocks of ice from the glacier. The lagoon
began forming in the early 1920s and
continues to grow, year by year. It has been
dwarves and hidden secrets, its also a all the way to the sea. The trips head first for bordered by rivers and surrounded by featured in at least a couple of films.
land of similarly spectacular, fantasy-like the village of Hvolsvllur, where there is a mountains. The contrast couldnt be greater. Returning, the tour passes by Skaftafell,
landscapes. The world has heard about the refreshment break. Its an area of beauty and Now is the time to enjoy your lunch at the beautiful park that is home to both
volcanos but its a land where ice and water history which the guide explains. this popular leisure spot and a good hour- massive volcanos and glaciers and the stately
play an important role, too. The largest long hike on one of the many different Svartifoss waterfall, noted for its black basalt
glacier in Europe covers part of the south, rsmrk - Thors Woods trails amongst the woods and meadows. columns, reaching Hotel Npar for lunch,
with powerful rivers going north and south. One tour stops next at the beautif ul Its a nature-lovers paradise. On leaving the followed by a 45-min stop in the small town
Water is plentiful and results in some of the Seljalandsfoss. Its quite an experience to area, the tour continues to the Stakkholtsgj of Vk for dinner, a quick trip around the
most beautiful waterfalls in Europe walk behind this waterfall. It will then head gorge and another hours hike up to its end town or down to the black sand beaches and a
To see Iceland properly, you also need to in to the interior, past Eyjafjallajkull into where the river is crossed on stepping stones. look the strange rock formations of Drangey.
understand its culture and history. If you an area as desolate as any moonscape except Climbing up a small rock face will bring you Seljalandsfoss falls is the next stop. They look
drive yourself, you will only see one part. for the rivers criss-crossing the dusty grey to another refreshing waterfall. very special in the soft evening summer light.
The solution is to take a tour with a guide terrain. According to the GPS, theres a lake As one traveller put it, An amazing day!
who can synthesize 1,000 years of history here but all you see is a little puddle in a Jkulsrln Jokulsarlon was the aim of the day but you
and culture down to a meaningful and sea of grey dust. Prior to the 2011 eruption, The second tour, meanwhile, continues get to see much more en route making the
enjoyable account that puts each landmark there was a lake, but so great was the ash fall south, taking in sights like the awesome whole experience unforgettable. I fully
into perspective and highlights what you that the land rose and the lake disappeared. Skgarfoss falls before driving past Icelands recommend this trip to anyone.
would otherwise have missed. Those little rivers can, in a matter of biggest volcano and its highest peak, Iceland Excursions ASF

Two of Iceland Excursions tours head minutes, turn into a foaming tumult that rfajkull and arriving at the climax of
south and both will take you to other-worldly has swept vehicles away. However, the tour the tour: the fantasy lagoon of Jkulsrln. Hafnarstrti 20 101 Reykjavk
scenes of magnificent beauty and awe. After drivers know just how to navigate these From early May, there is time for an +354 540 1313
leaving Reykjavik and crossing the desolate waters and you press onwards, feeling as amphibious boat tour to take in the amazing, iceland@grayline.is

mountain heath with its plumes of steam if you have arrived on the moon. As you other-worldly sights in the stillness of the www.grayline.is

billowing up into the sky, the rough, craggy wonder if this is joke, you round a towering afternoon, as it weaves its way past giant

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South Iceland

True Comfort Food

In a quiet side street, off the main highway,
stands a quaint little wooden house with a rich

Oozing history and charm at Halldrs Caf and Restaurant

history. Built in the Westman Islands in 1831,
it was dismantled and then rebuilt in Vk in

A h Vk! That colourful little village known

for its black sand beaches and offshore
basalt columns that jut straight up from the
As if awakening from a long winters nap,
the sleepy village, (pop. 290) comes to life
every spring in anticipation of the arrival of
1895. The building was used continuously as
Vks main retail shop from 1926 to 1980.
It is now the home of Halldrskaffi and the
sea. A place where the dazzling combination the many wide-eyed tourists who all fall in Tourist Information Centre, which is open in
of pounding surf, majestic glaciers, and steep love with it each summer. summer from 8.00 am to 8.00 pm
mountain pastures neatly come together, to form The approach to the town from the west Halldrskaffi, open from 11.00 am to
one of the most picturesque villages in Iceland. is especially captivating; the deep blue 11.00 pm, serves simple, yet wholesome

Experience Excellence
The 700 km 2 Mrdalsjkull glacial ice- shimmering sea comes into view as you meals throughout the day. I asked owner
cap, which towers above the town, hides the wend your way between precipitous slopes Kolbrn which are the most popular dishes
notorious Katla volcano, which last erupted
Htel Lundi brings eco-aware service to South Iceland
that usher you into the village below. On and without any hesitation, she answers with
in 1918. You will be happy to note that all a sunny summers day when the sea is a smile, the arctic char and the hamburgers. The restaurant seats up to 75 people
is quiet on that particular front these days. tranquil, the view is magical. This is the kind of place that kids and teens
will enjoy as well; tasty, filling, hamburgers,
lamb and fish dishes, homemade pizza, soup
L ocated in the heart of Vk, surrounded
by beautiful landscape, Htel Lundi
is a jewel only about 10 minutes walk from
Htel Lundi provides excellent service
and a lovely atmosphere. An eco-conscious
hotel, they respect nature and follow
and, during high season ( June-August),
offers an excellent la carte menu. During
low season, a solid selection of home
of the day with home baked bread, and a Vks famous black sand beaches. A cosy environmentally friendly standards in both cooked meals is provided. Group menus
selection of cakes are all on offer for the little hotel, its goal is to ensure you enjoy the hotel and restaurant. Of the 22 double are available on request all year round,
hungry traveller. An Icelandic beer, a glass of your stay while in the village. ensuite rooms, twelve were built in 2011, provided they are ordered in advance.
wine or other spirits are all options, and may spacious and beautifully decorated with All local services, such as supermarket,
be just the thing after a long day of sightseeing reference to the astonishing landscape of swimming pool, information centre and bank,
on Icelands charismatic south coast. Vk village and its surroundings. Free wi-fi are within walking distance of the hotel.
Halldrskaf EMV is available for guests. Htel Lundi SP
The restaurant serves outstanding meals
Vkurbraut 28 870 Vk for both lunch and dinner, using only fresh Vkurbraut 26 871 Vk

+354 847 8844 Icelandic fish, eggs, dairy and other high +354 487 1212
halldorskaf@gmail.com quality ingredients from local farmers. The hotellundi@islandia.is
www.halldorskaf.is outcome is delicious traditional Icelandic www.hotelpufn.is

food with a modern touch.

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South Iceland

Hotel Skgar Hotel Skgar is ideally situated for visitors

wishing to hike over the Fimmvruhls
Where good things come in small packages route and onwards to Landmannalaugar
and orsmrk. Outings in the area include

A ny journey around Icelands south

coast inevitably brings you to the
peaceful village of Skgar and its famous
the magnificent Dyrhlaey cliff s, teeming
with birds in summer and a visit to the
Skgar Folk Museum with its original turf
waterfall. The tiny village is really just a houses and turn of the century buildings.
collection of houses, a camping site, a folk Just 10 km to the west of Skgar brings
and transportation museum, and a great you to Thorvaldseyri Farms new visitor
small hotel, Hotel Skgar. centre, which chronicles the eruption of
On the upper floor, you will find four spacious Eyafjallajkull in 2010.

Skgar Folk and Transport Museum

and beautifully appointed deluxe rooms, while
eight double rooms, all with en-suite bathrooms

A showcase of Icelandic ingenuity and resourcefulness

are found on the ground-floor. A welcoming
wood-burning fireplace in the dining room sets

T he Skgar Folk Museum pays tribute

to Icelands many fi ne craftsmen and
women who each contributed in their own
As a result of the isolation and scarcity of
goods, craftsmanship of all kinds blossomed
and many highly skilled artisans produced
tradition. Wander around the Open Air
Museum with its historical buildings and
turf houses, reconstructed piece by piece
the tone for romantic dinners and the hotels
top-class chef will not fail to impress with her
succulent dishes of Icelandic lamb or fresh fish.
way to Icelands rich cultural history a variety of useful and decorative items. by rur himself. The small chapel, while
For c ent u rie s, Ic ela nd wa s a lmost Icelanders had to rely heavily on their own new on the outside, is filled with fine church
completely isolated from t he rest of ingenuity and resourcefulness for obtaining relics gathered from churches around South
Europe. The wild and harsh climate made many items that were taken for granted in Iceland. There, you will often fi nd rur
international trade, commerce and relations the rest of the world. at the harmonium, playing hymns from
difficult and the heavy-handed laws imposed his youth; the music transporting visitors
by the Danish and Norwegian monarchies, A Museum is Born to another place in time. After a day of exploring the area, be sure
did not make life any easier. There are probably few natives of South rurs foresight and enthusiasm has to make use of Hotel Skgars relaxing
Iceland more worthy of the title local expert inspired many others around Iceland to hot tub and sauna or enjoy a glass of wine
Images by Tim Vollmer

than the over-90 year-old curator of Skgar follow his example, thereby ensuring that out on the deck, creating an altogether
Museum, rur Tmasson. He knows just Icelands beautiful and unique cultural wonderful stay at Hotel Skgara must
about everything there is to know about heritage is not lost forever. while travelling in Iceland this summer.
the olden days of Iceland, and with his Byggasafni Skgum
EMV Htel Skgar EMV
vivid memory and keen mind, he is, for all
practical purposes, a walking encyclopedia. Skgum 861 Hvolsvelli Skgum 861 Hvolsvelli
rur bega n his collection at t he +354 487 8845 +354 487 4880
age of 14, at a time when the modern skogasafn@skogasafn.is hotelskogar@hotelskogar.is

technology of the 20 th century was fast www.skogasafn.is www.hotelskogar.is

replacing hundreds of years of cultural EMV

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 Hvolsvllur: The Door to the Highlands
Home of the Hekla and Eyjafjallajkull volcanoes

E ast Rangring, with a population

of 1750, is a va st district in the
up to one hours drive. Peaceful farmlands
suddenly and dramatically give way to nearly
Tribulations and Treasures
Eyja f ja llajku ll, t hat volca no wit h a

Hvolsvllur central South Iceland and ranges from

the highlands to the sea. It boasts a great
number of geological wonders, a fact which
has led the district to seek to become
vertical slopes that reach down to the main
road. Kilometre after kilometre of endless black
sand beaches hug the shoreline.
ridiculously difficult-to-pronounce name
that wrought havoc with air travel around
most of Europe and even affected many
flights to the United States, is located in the
a member of t he Eu ropea n Geopa rk A Base to Stay in the South district of East Rangring and has become
Network along with two other districts: Hvolsvllur is an excellent location as a one of the areas main attractions but is by
Mrdalshreppur and Kirkjubjarklaustur. base from which to explore South Iceland. no means the only sight to see in the area.
Hvolsvllur is the regions largest town Its central location makes it ideal for day The district contains many natural
(850 in habita nts) a nd a ll operations trips in the region and then back for a good treasures and is also the scene of one of the
relating to the eruption in Eyjafjallajkull nights sleep in one of the areas many types renowned Icelandic sagas, the Saga of the
in 2010 were organised from there. The of accommodation. The farmers market in Burning of Njll.
main industries in the area are agriculture the town centre, next to the post office, is a Some of the most renowned places are,
and tourism and Hvolsvllur is, in fact, great place to visit. for instance, Skgar, with its amazingly
the only town in Iceland that was not Here you will find a variety of locally picturesque Skgarfoss waterfall, Seljalandsfoss
established on the coast or by a river, but produced foodstuf fs for sa le, loca lly waterfall, behind which it is possible to walk,
entirely as a centre of service for the area. produced hand-knitted items of all kinds, and rsmrk, which is a beautiful and fertile
Only 106 km from Reykjavik, Hvolsvllur handicrafts by local artisans, original mountain ridge north of Eyjafjallajkull
is surrounded by plentiful recreation areas and wooden toys and superb organic ice cream. with various trekking routes in the area and
natural wonders, all between 15 minutes and A lovely green space for stretching therefore very popular among hikers.
ones legs and where the children can run There are a great variety of activities in
around is adjacent to the farmers market the area for those who wish to explore the
and hosts an outdoor exhibition by local sites with local guides.
photographers. There are camping-grounds, East Rangring
youth hostels, guest houses and hotels
ranging from 1 to 4 stars. Hlarvegi 16, 860 Hvolsvelli
Ferry trips to the Westman Islands are now +354 488 4200
possible from the new harbour, Landeyjahfn, hvolsvollur@hvolsvollur.is

which opened in July, 2010 and is just a 20 www.hvolsvollur.is

minute drive from Hvolsvllur.

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South Iceland

Secondly, there are two guesthouses,

ideal for big families or small groups as they
can accommodate ten persons each. Both
houses have a very well equipped kitchen, a

The Perfect Base Camp

bathroom, living room and a veranda and are
rented out as sleeping bag accommodation

Stra Mrk Farm opens up the South of Iceland

or with bedsheets.
Stra Mrk of fers brea k fa st e ver y

I celandic Farm Holidays are becoming

increasingly popular amongst individual
travellers and small groups. One of the
own leisure. There are quite a number of
hiking trails in the area as well as tour
operators who offer tours into the highlands
morning as well as pre-ordered meals for
those who wish. It is an open farm, meaning
the guests are welcome to have a close look
farms offering quite a lot for your money is and glaciers. So its worth staying a few days. at the livestock.
Stra-Mrk in south Iceland. Stra-Mrk has a variety of accommo- Stra Mrk III SS
Being the last farm before entering the dation. There is the farmhouse ground

Sitting Pretty
highlands via the beautiful rsmrk and floor, with five rooms, with or without en Stru-Mrk III 861 Hvolsvelli
a stones throw away from the Westman suite bathrooms, a kitchen and dining- +354 487 8903

The Old Cowhouse Restaurant-Caf-Bar

Island Ferry pier, Landeyjarhfn, its the room, as well as a living room. The rooms storamork@simnet.is

perfect base camp for those who wish to can accommodate between 2-4 persons and www.simnet.is/storamork

explore the south part of Iceland at their cribs and extra beds can be provided.
L ocation wise, The Old Cowhouse
Restaurant couldnt be in a more perfect
for children 712 and free for kids under the
age of 6. It features classic savoury and sweet
nearby Thorvaldseyri Farm. On the menu,
you can find two kinds of steak, 140g pure

Souvenir Candy
position for feasting your eyes upwards to dishes including the popular brauterta, a beef hamburgers served with the usual
the misty, craggy, moss-covered peaks of staple found at virtually every party or special french fries, called the Country Burger and

Take home a sweet reminder of Iceland

Eyjafjallajkull. Its a welcome addition to event in private homes around Iceland. If you the Farmers Burger with fried mushrooms
Icelands ever-growing list of new amenities are looking for traditional dishes, this one and onions. Getting your daily intake of

sl a nd Tre a s u re s e h f.
introduced a range of
souvenir Icelandic candies
that have been popping up all over the
country. The remodelled former barn, sits
right beside Route No. 1 roughly 25km from
really does take the cake. Meals can be taken
outside onto the patio, with its landscaped
rock and flower gardena must when the
fresh vegetables is easily accomplished with
salads prepared from The Old Cowhouse
own gardens or from neighbouring farms.
in the summer 2012. Hvolsvllur. Its unpretentious character weather is sunny and glorious. Other possibilities include fish of the day,
These were Icelandic and sweet bovine simplicity makes this a The Old Cowhouse menu uses beef that langoustine and for dessert, handmade ice
Puff in Eggs milk thoroughly enjoyable place to stop for lunch comes straight from restaurants own cattle cream from Fosss in Vk. A variety of wines
chocolate treats with or dinner while travelling the south coast. herds and offers a hearty and warming meat and spirits are also on offercheck out the
a soft chewy liquorice Every weekend, The Old Cowhouse offers a soup called Volcano Soup, served with home special Katla Geo Park beer!
c e nt r e , Ic e l a nd ic reasonably priced tea-time buffet, half price baked bread made with barley from the For a nice change of pace, the Old
Nor t hern Lights a space on the back for your Cowhouse hosts numerous events through
all natural, business card to be af f ixed the year, including evenings of Icelandic
hand made, before t he y a re ind ividua l ly folk music, an evening of traditional food,
peppermint wrapped in cellophane, giving you one of game (reindeer and geese) and a
sugar candies, in the a unique business gift which also December buff et of traditional Icelandic
colour of the Northern Lights, Icelandic promotes Iceland. If you are interested Christmas dishes.
Lava Sparks traditional Icelandic toff ee A Sweet Way to Promote Business in ta k ing advantage of this unique
wrapped in a crisp red shell, and Icelandic sla nd Tre a su re s a l so de sig n s sm a l l promotional gift, please contact by email Large and small groups are
L ava Pebbles traditiona l Icela ndic packages for hand outs at conferences and or visit the website. welcome.
liquorice toffee with a hint of chocolate, smaller, lighter versions of their f lagship sland Treasures Gamla Fjsi EMV
wrapped in a crisp black shell. They were an Icelandic Puffin Eggs gift boxes aimed
instant hit in select tourist shops and sites at companies, business people and anyone Skagabraut 25 300 Akranes Hvassafell 860 Hvolsvelli
around the country. Very quickly, these interested in promoting Iceland. These +354 612 5065 +354 487 8822
souvenir candies began to be snapped up by come in 2 designs: their traditional puffi n islandtreasures@gmx.com oldcowhouse@gmail.com

tourists and Icelanders looking for unique scene and another humorous one aimed www.islandtreasures.biz facebook.com/oldcowhouse

Icelandic gifts to take to friends overseas. at golfers. Both of these small boxes have

346 347
South Iceland

Southern Fantasies
Reykjavik Excursions takes you to the Highlands and the Coast
I celand is a small country but it has been
blessed with far more than its fair share of
sights and wonders. The variety of different
massive blocks of ice in the awesome stillness
of the lagoon in the afternoon sunlight. This
is a film directors dream: an actual site that
sights like the Westman Islands, the black
sand beaches and the strange rock formations
stretching out into the sea at Dyrhlaey.
cauldrons and crevasses. While you should
bring your own warm clothing, hiking
boots and rain clothing, glacier gear and
between glaciers and mountains. Regular cars
cannot reach it. The trip there from the main
road is criss-crossed with unbridged glacial
has been reduced to a mere puddle. Wheres
the beauty here?
The coach rounds a rough, high cliff wall
landscapes keeps visitors returning. Its not possesses a fantasy-like appearance from safety equipment are supplied. rivers that can turn into raging torrents. A and suddenly, the oasis that is rsmrk
that they are just different, rather each is so another world. It has actually been featured Call of the Mountains regular Reykjavik Excursions coach takes you appears. It has its own mild micro-climate
unusual that it leaves visitors awed. in at least a couple of major films already. If you feel drawn to the mountains rather Multi-coloured Mountains to Hvolsvllur where you will switch over to a and here bushes and birch trees grow in
The tours themselves dont just drive you This trip has two completely different than the sea, there are several great tours that Not all the mountains are covered with mountain truck that safely travels this tricky abundance, making it popular with bird
there and back, they make sure you get the views, depending on which side you sit. On will take you to very different destinations. snow in summer or hidden under glaciers. territory where cars, jeeps and even buses and nature lovers. Its a beautiful spot
most out of every mile, every sight along the the one side are mountains, volcanos, glaciers The Skaftafell tour takes you to a part of The Landmannalaugar tour takes you high have been swept away. to enjoy all the different aspects of the
way and hear about all the anecdotes, folk tales and waterfalls, whilst on the other side are Europes largest national park, Vatnajkull into the interior to a valley between ryolite Most of this land is covered in volcanic landscape and nature alike.
and history associated with them in a fun way. National Park, which is a very diverse park mountains, resplendent in their many ash from a recent eruption. A former lagoon M a k e s u re to br i n g a g o o d sn a c k
Take the tour to Jkulsrln, for example. encompassing raging rivers, glorious glaciers, colours. You might expect it to be freezing with youor buy it at one of the stops.
Whilst this spectacular lagoon is the end goal, massive mountains, lovely lakes and wild but there is lush vegetation and the sight of Youre really out in the wilderness of the
there are waterfalls, glaciers, the countrys wilderness areas. Skaftafell is an unusually people bathing in the warm springs. The interior in rsmrk.
highest mountain and its most recent volcano warm spot, with a higher-than-average number Gateway to Hell, Mt. Hekla, is clearly visible Reykjavik Excursions ASF
to see, not to mention the historical sites that of beautiful warm, sunny days. It is perhaps for from this beautiful geothermal area, just one
abound along the way and the small villages this reason that flora and fauna abound along of several volcanos in the region. BSI Bus Terminal 101 Reykjavk
that contribute so much to the character of with both animal and bird life. Towering +354 580 5400
the South. There is an option with this tour above all is Icelands highest mountain on a Oasis under the Volcano main@re.is

to take a half-hour boat trip that wends its vast glacier. The tour provides an option for a Its a few days hike from this mountain www.re.is

way in a specially designed craft between the 2-hour walk on the glacier, where there are valley to rsmrk, lying in a sheltered valley

348 349
 Travelling Green
confident that GT Travel & Tours has your
best interests at heart. Its fleet of nearly fifty
Gumundur Tyrfingsson specialises in group tours around Iceland coaches, amongst the newest in the country,
can carry between 9 and 67 passengers and

F ou nded in 1969, t he trade-ma rk

turquoise green buses of Gumundur
con veniently located departure points
for tours to the south coast such as the
are all fitted with either 2- or 3-point seat
belts. Most coaches are equipped with air-

Selfoss Tyrfingsson Travel & Tours are now a very

familiar part of the Icelandic landscape and
can be seen criss-crossing the country at any
given time year-round.
Jkulsrln Glacia l Lagoon Tour, the
South Coast Tour, Landmanna laugar
Tour, Northern Lights Tours a nd, of
course, the Golden Circle Tour.
conditioning, ABS brakes, comfortable
reclining seats and footrests.

Finally, some recent feedback from just one

Of fering a variet y of tours around of many satisfied clients:
Iceland for groups of all sizes, this family- Hire a Coach for a Tailor-made Tour Dear Madam, I was the group leader
run company can arrange special interest For a truly endearing experience in Iceland, on a recent school trip to Iceland. We
tours, day tours, short and long tours, let GT Travel tailor-make a tour that used a bus from your company and I
cultural tours and highland tours and encompasses an area of special interest to you would like to thank you for a wonderful
can be of service with airport transfers or and your group. History buffs will appreciate service. Our drivers sense of humour
city transfers. Additionally, GT Travel Icelands rich culture, folklore and Saga and relaxed manner with the staff
offers guidance in all the major European history. Bird watching enthusiasts can plan and children was wonderful. He is a
languages and can arrange accommodation, a guided tour to see Icelands varied bird wonderful driver and showed concern
suitable activities, coach service and meals. life. Coaches can be hired for virtually any and care for the group at all timesBest
A l l o f G T Tr a v e l s g r o u p t o u r s occasion! Whatever your reasons for visiting wishes for the future and I hope to enjoy
depart from either Reykja vik or other Iceland, be it business or pleasure, you can be the beauties of Iceland again soon.

GT Travel and Tours has recently

received an award for being one
of Icelands strongest companies,
achieving top marks in strength
and stability.
Gumundur Tyrngsson
ASF

Fossnes C 800 Selfoss

+354 482 1210

gt@gtbus.is
www.gtyrngsson.is

351
South Iceland

Dine by the Riverside

Htel Selfoss Restaurant and Spa provide comfort and class

J ust 45 min from the capital, the powerful

lfus river runs through the town of
Selfoss. On its bank stands Htel Selfoss,
meeting, conference and banquet facilities.
However, there is much more, including a
cinema and shops. In addition, the Riverside
with 99 well-equipped rooms, its top-class Spa and Wellness Centre is a wonderful
Riverside restaurant providing diners a place to relax and rejuvenate body and spirit
spectacular view of the foaming river, the alike, fully equipped with sauna, steam
bridge and the mountains beyond. room, a hot pool and rainwater showers.
The restaurant itself has a spacious From the hotel, guests can branch out and
lounge area with comfortable couches. explore the entire south of Iceland, knowing
The warmth of the inviting open f ire that, after a day in the wilds, they will be
adds to the ambience of muted elegance thoroughly taken care of on their return.

A Man and His Horse

where t here is time to converse over Htel Selfoss ASF
drinks from the well-stocked bar.

Klfholt Riding Tours for all levels of experience make riding fun
The chef creates dishes from the finest local Eyravegi 2 800 Selfossi

produce that are more reminiscent of works of +354 480 2500

art, making the dining experience exceptional.
R iding an Icelandic horse through the Breeding for Excellence
info@hotelselfoss.is
www.hotelselfoss.is
The hotel has all the normal facilities sunny countryside of South Iceland on a Klfholt is a well established breeding farm
expected of such a luxury hotel, including delightful summers day is the dream of many in southern Iceland that has produced some
a horse enthusiast. Freedom fills your senses excellent horses for pleasure riding, breeding
in the beauty of the open expanses, lifting and competition. Amongst those are Rull,
the spirits of both man and horse. The power which won the Class B at the National Personalised attention is all yours
and majesty of these noble animals combine Icelandic Horse Show in 2008. K l f holt R id i ng Tou r s specia l i se i n
with the power and majesty of the Icelandic providing riding instruction and tours
landscape as it stretches out before you. Just a short drive to ride to individuals, couples and small groups
This interplay bet ween man, horse Located 70 km from Reykjavk, between Selfoss of up to 12 pa r t icipa nt s. Ey r n a nd
and nature is something that Eyrn and and Hella, the farm is easily accessible from Steingrmurs patient and personal style
Steingrmur, proprietors of Klfholt Riding Ring road #1 and is perfectly situated for day is perfect for families.
Tours, have known for many years and now tours in the area.
they offer their time and talent, expertise and Immerse Yourself in a Week-Long Stay

rnesinga Folk Museum

The museum is inevitably affected by its services to travellers in Iceland. Learn by Doing Klfholt off ers an exciting week-long stay
environment, and so part of the museum Courses and private lessons taught by at the breeding farm, which includes full
The Icelandic HorseA True Friend
Where history of community and culture become one
focuses on the House and its inhabitants. professional riding instructors are offered for board, accommodation, a 4-day riding tour,
A nother museum worth the visit is Icelandic horses are small and strong, with advanced riders and beginners, using Klfholts airport pickup and drop-off and one day of

F illed with old memories, Hsi (The

House) at Eyrarbakki was built when
danish merchants were allowed to overwinter in
Merchant families lived in the House for
almost two centuries over which period the
House was the centre for art and European
Sjminjasafni Eyrarbakka, the museum
of maritime history in Eyrarbakki. It can
be found near the House. The museum
an additional couple of gaits that makes well-trained horses.
riding them both comfortable and inspiring.
Gentle and friendly, they nonetheless
sight seeing on the Golden Circle (Geysir,
Gullfoss and ingvellir).
Participants will receive basic riding
Iceland for the first time. Transported to Iceland culture in Iceland; fashion, music and takes the visitor back to old times in a small have a spirit that makes riding fun and Popular tours include : instruction which is geared to their level of
in kit form in 1765, it is a timber structure, literature spread from there throughout Icelandic fishing village. On display is a enjoyableas can be seen by its popularity. Introduction to the Icelandic Horse competence, allowing them to gradually
comprising two storeys and an attic. The the country. fi ne collection of artifacts connected with - a gentle half hour ride for children 8 years progress in their riding skills. Evenings can
extension to the west of The House is known T he House under went repa irs a nd fisheries, crafts, social and cultural life of the and under. be spent relaxing in the hot tub, enjoying
as Assistentahsi (The Assistants House) while alterations during the period 1979 to common people during the last 150 years. Introduction to the Icelandic Horse traditional Icelandic songs, music and games.
north from the Assistants House is the Egg 1995, with the objective of restoring it to Almar Bakery
Byggasafn rnesinga SP - a one hour tour for beginners of any age. Klfholt
House formerly used for a large collection of its original form, then purchased by Th e
birds and eggs in 1890-1926, now used as an Icelandic Treasur y purchased in 1992 Sunnumrk
Hsi 820
2 810
Eyrarbakki
Hverageri 90 minute, 2.5 hour and 5 hour tours Klfholti II 851 Hella
exhibition space. Today these buildings house and opened it to public in 1995 as The +354 483
+354 1504
483 1919 - a ride in the country along the rs +354 487 5176
the rnesinga Folk Museum where visitors rnesssla Folk Museum. husid@husid.com
ingibergsdottir74@gmail.is
riverbank to Urriafoss waterfall for kalfholt@kalfholt.is

can experience past items and learn about the Exhibitions in the House have been intermediate and advanced riders.
www.husid.com
on facebook www.kalfholt.is

remarkable history of the building. designed to show the building at its best.

352 353
South Iceland

Touring Iceland from

above and below Iceland Excursions-Grayline Iceland

I f this is your first time in Iceland, whether

just for a few days or for a few weeks,
consider taking one of Iceland Excursions
We head to Leiarendi Lava Tube Cave, a
30-minute drive from Reykjavik. For me, this
is definitely a first. The mini-bus with 6 other
Iceland Excursions Goes Above Ground
A tou r w h ic h g ive s i n si g ht i nto t he
above-ground habits of Icelanders, the
exciting guided day tours - a fantastic way to passengers, plus our driver/guide stops in the Taste the Saga Tour is a relaxing and
get to know the country, especially if youre middle of a vast 1,000 year-old moss-covered f un way to learn about Iceland s past
short on time. barren plain. Sheer volcanic mountains rise and present.
Iceland will amaze you with the sheer number straight up out of the plain and there is not What better way to understand Icelands
of things to do, places to see and adventures to a soul in sight, be it man, sheep or horse. We colourful drinking culture than to visit
partake of and Iceland Excursions goes to the don bright orange overalls, with matching its oldest brewery, lgerin, named after
limit, offering a wide variety of tours to make helmets and after a quick briefing, were off. Icelands most famous - and infamous -
sure you get the most out of your stay. There Its a short walk to the cave entrance and drunkard turned poet, Egill Skallagrmsson,
are day tours to all the best-loved sights, activity there we clamber down the steep rocky who started both drinking and writing
tours, combination tours, city and country incline and walk off into the darkness, poetry at the tender age of 3.
breaks, and the list goes on and on. headlamps beaming brightly. Before touring the stylish headquarters,
In this edition of Icelandic Times, the Some places are f lat and smooth, the we of course get to taste various samples
spotlight is on two very different tours, ceiling high, where we can walk upright. of beer, including an excellent modern-day
a n activit y tour a nd a cu ltura l tour, Further on, we walk hunched over and version of mead, which is similar to the stuff
giving you an insiders perspective of two still further, we have to crawl or do a crab that those Vikings used to drink, back in
wildly different day trips. walk as the ceiling lowers to about 3 to the day.
4 feet (1 - 1.25 metres). Its an amazing The tour concludes wit h a shot of
Iceland Excursions Goes Underground experience and if you have ever wanted Brennivn, with its wonderful caraway seed
In a cave produced by free f lowing lava to t r y somet h ing cha l leng ing , going flavour and lets just say, you will leave this
about 1,000 years ago, we get ready to do just a bit, but not too far beyond your tour happy!
some down-to-earth caving on this very normal comfort zone, then this is your
exciting tour! chance.
EMV

Iceland Excursions

Hafnarstrti 20 101 Reykjavk

+354 540 1313

iceland@grayline.is
www.grayline.is

354 355
South Iceland

The Oldest Eco-Village

Slheimar: Where Culture, Organics and People Thrive

S lheimar is hardly the kind of place in

which you arrive by accident. But take a
twenty minute detour en route to Gullfoss or
Stay Longer and Enjoy Life
A day in Slheimar is not nearly enough.
Stay a little longer, when most visitors have
well as self-contained mini-apartments with
their own kitchenette. For groups, full board
accommodation is available, while individuals
Slheimar theatre, which is the oldest and
biggest amateur theatre in Iceland, also
doubles as a sports hall.
Geysir, or an afternoon trip from Reykjavk, returned home. In splendid isolation, it is can opt for breakfast on request. For other Slheimar was founded in 1930 by Sesselja
and you will be very glad you did. Nestled in a wonderful place for relaxation or quiet meals, guests can use the self-catering Hreinds Sigmundsdttir and today is home
a small valley, the village remains tucked away reflection. Wander amongst the sculptures kitchen or the barbecue on the veranda. A to people with special needs and others. The
untilat the very last bendthe turf roofs of in the village centre, and then set out on geothermally-heated pool and hot tub are villagers with special needs will always be at
the houses begin to appear as if from nowhere. a circular walk which takes you up to the nearby and open to guesthouse visitors.
With a population of a round 100, hilltops for stunning views and down across
Slheimar holds many surprises. Over 30,000 the wetlands bird sanctuary on a boardwalk Abundant Activities and Exhibitions
visitors a year have already discovered this before emerging through shaded woodland, Sesseljuhs, an educational and exhibition
special place, many returning time and again. a rarity in the Icelandic countryside. You centre in the village, is a distinctive
can walk through a living exhibition of building which can also be rented out
First Nordic Organic Producer different tree species cultivated at Icelands for conferences and corporate events. The
Being one of Icelands largest organic only organic nursery and arboretum, and building showcases sustainable architecture energy sources, including an innovative
vegetable producers would be reason enough perhaps choose one or two for your garden. a nd is open to visitors on weekdays. generator that produces electricity from
to drop by and stock up on tomatoes, peppers If a caf in a greenhouse does not sound like Two guesthouses provide comfortable Sheep wool was used for insulation and the temperature difference between hot and
and chutney, to name but a few ingredients. a cosy place then think again Slheimars accommodation for those staying longer. the exterior cladding is driftwood. It is cold water. Another noteworthy building,
This was the first place in the Nordic c a f is geot herma l ly heated a nd t he There are rooms with or without en suite, as powered by a combination of renewable and one of the newest in the village, is the heart of Slheimar, and they are great
countries to cultivate produce organically. greenhouse is as warm as the welcome you the church, which was completed and hosts. Many have special talents in art and in
But the village shop is much more than a will receive there. The name of the caf, consecrated in 2005 and holds weekly other areas. Youll meet Slheimar people in
general store and an organic greengrocer which translates as green coffee pot, is a Sunday services throughout the year. It the caf and around the village, and theyll
for residents and visitors. Here you can find reminder of its green credentials, because regularly welcomes visiting choirs, and brighten up your day. You can find their
candles, weaving, handmade soap, art and from the coffee and cake to the beer and there are Saturday concerts in summer. work in the shop and take home something
ceramics, as well as toys and gifts carefully wine, almost everything is organic. The There is a lways plent y going on at to remember your time in Slheimar.
crafted from wood. Slheimar has its own Green Coffee Pot is a meeting place for Slheimar. There is a diverse lecture Slheimar LK
bakery too, which makes the delicious bread residents and visitors all year round, but programme, for instance. Past lectures
and cakes that can be found in the shop and visit on a weekend afternoon in summer and have covered topics like Icelandic water, Slheimar 801 Selfoss
the caf. The shop is the perfect place to find you will find yourself in the midst of a lively the revival of the birch tree in Iceland and +354 480 4400
a unique present or keepsake. entertainment programme that comprises fish and fishing in the south of Iceland. solheimar@solheimar.is

The social hub of Slheimar is its caf, everything from well-known pop and rock Numerous workshops and exhibitions take www.solheimar.is

which happens to be in a large greenhouse. musicians to classical concerts, and choirs. place there throughout the summer. The

356 357
South Iceland

Make Your Trip Memorable

make the most of the drive to point out driving, you arrive fresh at each place
things you would have otherwise missed and you do arriveyou dont get lost!

Iceland Excursions Tours bring you the countrys essence

or sha re a n a necdote from histor y A nice thing about Icelanders is that they
both ancient and recent. This turns the sincerely want you to enjoy the country they

A s you plan your holiday, youre probably

wondering how to do it all, see it all,
enjoy it all and, when you come back,
skills. After putting on helmets and riding
gear, youre off into the beautiful countryside
for a two-hour ride. Run by Por and his
tour into an enjoyable and memorable
experience, a llowing you to focus on
taking photos to later jog your memory
remember it all. Thats a lot to fit in but there family, the Laxnes Horse Farm has built a when sha ring you r e xperienc e s w it h
are clear shortcuts to making it happen. reputation for safety and quality, with many your friends. These tours are certainly
Say you d l i ke to ride a horse, see famous celebrities riding there. something you will want to share, too, as
the famous Icelandic sights and learn After a break for an optional lunch with the combination of the nature, people and
some history but not have the trouble of a delicious soup and hot, fresh bread, the guides talks will leave you feeling as if
driving yourself. Among its many tours, coach arrives for the remainder of the tour. you really know this part of the country,
Icela nd Excursions ha s one tour t hat Now that the roads are paved to the major rather than having just seen it.
covers those criteria pretty well. sites, the coaches are the same modern I talked with a young couple who had
Starting with a pick up at your hotel luxury coaches found all across Europe. rented a car to go sightseeing. When I
around 9 am, this particular tour takes you T his is where a tour beat s d riving told them about my experiences of taking
out past Mosfellsbr to Laxnes Horse Farm, yourself hands down! The guides are all a tour to where they had been, they were
where a horse is selected to match your riding highly trained and very knowledgable and dismayed, feeling they had wasted their
time and missed so muchand, in many
respects, they had. Just as you wouldnt love and get the most out of your visit. They
ride a horse without the proper equipment, want to share it all with you. You dont feel
getting the most from your visit to Iceland disappointed or ripped off. On the contrary,
really requires someone experienced to you come away feeling you have lived your
share their knowledge with you. holiday to the full and are taking home very
If you take a look at their website, you special memories. You will probably not
will notice Iceland Excursions professional have time to see everything in one holiday,
approach to their tours. You can also read but Iceland Excursions will be here to take
the reactions of others who have taken a tour. you to other equally amazing destinations
After all, if you are spending your time and on your next trip. And you will want to
money coming all the way to Iceland, you return! You have but scratched the surface
will doubtless want to make the most of it. of an astounding country.
Th e gratifying thing about the tours is Iceland Excursions ASF
that they are not intrusive. Th ey get you
to the places you want to see, tell you all Hafnarstrti 20 101 Reykjavk
about the sights and history so that when +354 540 1313
you arrive, you are prepared to fully enjoy iceland@grayline.is

them and will know what you want to www.grayline.is

focus on. By taking the strain out of the

358 359
South Iceland

Travel With a Friend

holiday, free from stress and worry but filled
with the enjoyment that comes from taking

Gateway to Iceland prepares the details to make your tour terrific spectacular scenery.
a real break in some of the worlds most

I t c er t a in ly say s somet h ing t hat a personal attention wherever youre travelling

company has been awarded TripAdvisors with them in Iceland.
Certificate for Excellence for the last two
Their packages include the hotel, tours
in comfort to the most popular sights, time
for shopping, along with counsel and ideas
years in a rowthe only tour operator Lets Get Personal to help you get the most from your time
in Iceland with that record. Theres a When they put your personalised tour without you having to worry.
good reason for it. People appreciate the together, they also provide you with a
personalized service. When somebody posts, welcome package with your plans, maps, Secrets Revealed
...it truly felt like we had a friend who was activities and a lot of helpful information. There is so much to see in Iceland and so
taking us around on a personal tour and They make themselves available, just as a much diversity in one small country that
others echo their sentiments, you know the friend would. As a result, you have a real you could stay for months and not see
company has something special. everything. Having a personal guide to
GTI can handle every aspect of your explain what you are seeing, its background
stayand they do it with style. They dont and history, also helps you get so much more
charge extra for all the planning involved out of your visit. Driving on your own, you
and go out of their way to make your stay as would miss so much because Iceland is
successful as possible, fi lled with humour, known as the land of many hidden secrets.
stories, explanationsand consideration. GTI wants to open some of those secrets
to you, giving you a holiday of a lifetime.
Begin Before You Leave Thats what brings satisfaction to them, too.
W hether youre on a honeymoon or a GTI also has standard tour packages from
business trip, a school group or travelling day tours to the key Icelandic destinations.
alone, your adventure and fun will begin ASF
Gateway to Iceland
before you even leave home as they work
with you to make your visit everything and Hyrjarhfi 4 110 Reykjavk
more than you desire, from meeting you at +354 534 4446
the airport to the guided tours in anything info@gatewaytoiceland.is

from luxury cars to comfortable mini-buses. www.gatewaytoiceland.is

Keeping the groups small ensures that

360
South Iceland

SLAKKI ZOO
& PLAY
CENTRE Where Children and Animals
Get to Know One Another

S ummer is here. The newborn lambs

are skipping and jumping in the fields.
The flowers are blooming in all their glory
animals of all kinds and to look at the birds
and fish in their own environments.
Its not just the animals, though. There are Sla k k i s indoor
other games to play which unite the family z oo is open e ver y
in a fun entertainment such as the putting day throughout the
and Iceland has turned green once again. A Safe and Fun Activity Day green and crazy golf. su m mer mont h s
The volcanic eruptions have only served There are animals of all sizes from horses u nt i l t he e nd of
to fertilise the grass and the blue skies are to mice, pigs to ponies and everything in Relax with Restaurant Refreshments Aug u st. It is one
encouraging everyone to get out into the between. Some are inside and others can Naturally, when youre staying all day in of Icelands secrets
countryside once again. be enjoyed in the gardens. The kittens, for a centre such as Slakki, refreshments are that is being revealed
Of course, the countryside is synonymous example, are a favourite inside their own very important and here you will find a on the Internet, with
with animals. In Laugars, close to Sklholt little house, where children can hold and restaurant and caf fi lled with home-made pictures and videos being
cathedral is the Slakki Zoo and Play Centre, pet them for as long as they wish - and that snacks, including delicious hamburgers with posted by satisfied customers
which is one of the countrys most popular can be a long time. salad and apple cakes with cream. and their happy children. If youre
animal centres. It would be a mistake to Th is is a safe environment where parents The caf is in a small turf house, with driving the Golden Circle trip, see for
think this was just for children, however. can relax, knowing their children will plenty of seating outside where you can yourself. Its only a few minutes
It has activities for all the family, adults be enjoying themselves without harm. enjoy the sun and the yummy, locally-made off the main road to Geysir.
included and it makes a great day out in a Families often make a day of it, as there is Kjris icecream. Slakki ASF
place where the simple joys of life can be plenty to do. Besides the animals, there is a Stuffed animals may be fine at home,
indulged in by everyone. large aquarium and many different species but nothing can replace the experience of Launrtt I 801 Selfossi
For the children to be able to experience of birds to enjoy. Even farmers come with holding or playing with live animals. No +354 486 8783
animals close up, to be able to touch and their families - often wondering why their computer or TV can take their place, either, helgi@slakki.is

hold many of them, is such a treat nowadays. children love it so much when they have so its no surprise that many families return www.slakki.is

They love the opportunity to play with animals at home! again and again.

362 363
South Iceland

coffee ceremony and at Minilik, Flir it is

a real treat as the Ethiopians are second to

Another taste of Ethiopia

none when it comes to coffee.
The restaurant can seat 25 diners and

Ancient African Cuisine in Upcountry Flir

also provides take-away. So, if you are
staying in a summerhouse near Flir, you

F lir is possibly one of t he be st

locations in Iceland for an Ethiopian
restaurant. Ethiopians are famous for
The owners of Minilik, Flir are rni
Hannesson and Aseb Kahssay and the
restaurant was opened in June 2011. It
can also order their splendid dishes for both
large and small parties.
As Minilik, Flir is a small restaurant,
their fasting 150 days a year, which means has proved to be popular, especially with be sure to book your table ahead.
they are not allowed to eat any kind of touristsand the locals are catching on, too, Minilik Restaurant SS

TakeaBreakattheWaterfall
meat. With Flir being one of the largest warming to this exotic and wonderful food
greenhouse areas in Iceland, the access with locally grown vegetables and imported Gilsbakka 845 Flir
to vegetarian ingredients has to be the Ethiopian herbs and spices. Chicken and +354 846 9798
Gullfoss Kaffi is the place to stop for refreshments best. Even when serving the traditional beef come from Icelandic stocks. azeb-kassay@hotmail.com

S et in the midst of a farming community, Gu l l f o s s k a f f i g a i ne d i m me d i a t e Ethiopian chicken and beef dishes, the One cannot enter an Ethiopian restaurant www.minilik.is

the spectacular Gullfoss waterfa ll popularity and whole bus loads of visitors plates are loaded with very fresh vegetables. without getting acquainted with their lovely
was enjoyed by just a few. As Iceland was descended on it. With seating for 450 guests
discovered as a tourist location, so its to eat in comfort, looking out to a beautiful known for, they also have a small la carte
wonders began to be recognised as treasures view of the nature and such friendly, fast menu for diners offering options of lamb or
to share with the world. service, no-one was left dissatisfied. fresh salmon. For those who want something
Travelling to the waterfall was, nonetheless, with their coffee, there is a range of pastries
still quite a long trip from Reykjavik and Feeding the hungry and cakes, freshly baked on the spot that are
visitors longed for some refreshments, so There were more reasons for the kaffis more than just tempting!
in 1994, one of the enterprising farming popularity than just its proximity to the
families set up a tent and offered delicious, best known waterfall in Iceland. They do Warm clothing and souvenirs
traditional Icelandic food. not just serve delicious, high quality coffee Gullfoss is on the main route through
Some three years later, that tent became in all its styles and many fl avours. By the the highland interior that is becoming

The Chocolate Innovator

a la rge su m merhou se, of fering more time people reached Gullfoss, they were an increasingly popular way to reach the taste. The clever blend makes for an ice cream
comfort and facilities until another three hungry and there can be little better than a north, so it is a natural stopping point for a unlike any you have tried before. If youre like

Be warned! Caf Mika is a Chocolate Lovers Paradise

years later, the current centre was built, genuine Icelandic lamb soup, with its fresh break. The highlands, of course, can be a lot me, youll want to come back for more!
providing all the facilities travellers and ingredients garnered from the surrounding cooler and the kaffi has a range of clothing,
sightseers alike could appreciate. In 2004,
a large seating area was added.
area, to satisfy the largest appetite. Whilst includ ing ha nd made Ic ela nd ic wool
the soup is probably what the kaffi is best sweaters, hats, gloves and scarves, as well as
other useful clothing. Th is is all part of the
A chef and chocolatier, Mika finds ways
to put this delicacy into unexpected
forms, creating whole new taste experiences.
Open for lunch and dinner, the menu
changes with the season, to take advantage
of the freshest local vegetables, Icelandic
Pralines with a Difference
Whilst ice cream isnt something you can easily
take with you, Mikas pralines are a delicacy
handcrafts section of the shop where visitors Mika offers a special thick drinking cheeses, arctic char, langoustines and meats, you will want to stock up on. You can take
can browse a wide selection of souvenirs and chocolate. Each week, he selects one of a blended into mouth-watering meals for them in presentation boxes or eat some with
locally-made crafts where the skill of the range of chocolates from many different parts individuals or groups. A selection of drinks your meals. Youll need a cast iron will to get
Vikings once again becomes apparent in the of the world, each with a different flavour. is also available to round of your meal, which these home without eating them. Again, youll
quality of the various products. you can also eat outside in the sunshine, find new varieties on an almost-monthly basis.
Gullfoss kaf ASF Lobster Hot Dogs enjoying Reykholts beautiful nature. Caf Mika ASF
Mikas latest creation is a delicious hot
801 Selfoss Blskgabygg dog, made from healthy bread rolls, the Unique Ice Cream Flavour Blends Sklabraut 4 801 Reykholt

+354 486 6500 popular langoustine lobster, tomatoes and Naturally, youll find ice cream here, too. +354 896 6450
gullfoss@gullfoss.is onions, covered with tangy chilli and a The difference is that Mika mixes flavours, mikaehf@simnet.is
www.gullfoss.is white chocolate sauce that leaves the taste blending them with chocolate, nuts, fruits on Facebook

buds tingling with its fl avour. and more so that each level has a different

364 365
South Iceland

Within The Golden Circle

A Taste of Wild and Sweet Galler Guesthouse is surrounded by famous attractions
Laugarvatns Lindin Restaurant & Caf Bistro T he small but lively town of Laugarvatn
lies within the Golden Circle, created
active volcanoes, Eyja f ja llajkull and
Hekla are clearly visible.
bread, baked in a natural hotspring close
to Geysir. Th e bread is served along with

L indin Restaurant & Caf Bistro, located

on the banks of Lake Laugarvatn, stands
on a firm foundation of culinary excellence
featuring only wild caught fish and seafood,
game and lamb. Exotic dishes like grilled
reindeer and cormorant with wild mushroom
by Th ingvellir, Geysir, and Gulfoss. Th e
centrally located Galler Bed & Breakfast
was begun by owners Th urur and Joel
Gallers knack for handicrafts is apparent
in light fi xtures made by Thurur and small
decorations scattered throughout the rooms.
slices of salmon each day at Gallers caf.
Galler Guesthouse is open year round.
KB
Galler Laugarvatn
that has attracted patrons from around the sauce and arctic char tartare with coconut after their children had f lown the nest; The Galler gift shop is where Thurur and
world. Owner and head chef, Baldur xdal sauce are featured on the menu. Always ahead the three extra bedrooms now fi lled with Joels artistry shines, allowing travellers Hholti 1 840 Laugarvatni
Halldrsson trained at the Culinary Institute of his game, you can be sure of finding new tourists wanting more than the normal day to take home a small piece of Icelandic +354 486 1016
of America in New York in 19861987, and and exciting additions to his dessert menus trip to Icelands most famous attractions. design. Joel a nd Thuriur extend a n galleri@simnet.is
www.gallerilaugarvatn.is
received training as a pastry chef at the such as his delectable chocolate mousse with From an enclosed patio, that will soon invitation to their guests to come along
prestigious Richemont Professional School raspberry sauce, with watermelon pieces and fe at u re a f i replac e, t wo of Ic ela nd s and f ind out the secret to their tast y
in Lucerne from 19881989, where he white chocolate foam and his bilberry skyr
developed his interest in the art of chocolate mousse with crow berries and rhubarb.
and learnt the secrets behind a great dessert.
After his training abroad was completed, Only the freshest
Baldur began something of a culinary Passionate about food, Baldur insists on The Verdict
revolution in Reykjavik, working at many the absolute purity and freshness of all his Taking our coffee and dessert out on the
of the top hotels and restaurants, creating ingredientsnot too difficult a task when spacious terrace overlooking a lush lakeside
spectacular and sophisticated desserts that you are located in the heart of Icelands garden, no less than 2 famous volcanoes,
were hitherto unknown in the capital. greenhouse belt where he can take his Hekla and Eyjafjallajkull were both visible
pick of the choicest fruits and vegetables on the eastern horizon. The setting was
Mecca of Icelandic wild game g row n i n t he a re a ye a r rou nd . T he magical, the coffee, among the best weve
Baldur took over Lindin Restaurant in 2002 restaurant even has its own small kitchen tasted in Iceland and the chocolate mousse...
which is known as the Mecca of Icelandic wild garden providing a fresh supply of rhubarb, was, well...simply divine.
game, priding itself on its year round menu chervil and red and black currants.
In the heart of the Golden Circle

Down Into the Depths

Lindin is located in the village of Laugarvatn,
beside the natural steam baths and pool at
Fontana Spa. The 45 min scenic drive from
Reykjavik takes you through enchanting Caving with Laugarvatn Adventure
landscapes between Geysir and Gullfoss and
Thingvellir, making this an excellent day trip
in one of the most scenic areas of Iceland. Check
T he mouth of Gjbakkahellir cave
leads down to rocky paths hollowed
out by lava f lows that pushed through
to Tintrons vertical drop accessible only
by abseiling down a rope. Lauagarvatn Litli Bjrn cave. Tours are off ered daily
Adventures three cave tours let visitors from May through August with a two
the opening times on the website. earth, forming the caves smooth and safely delve into the depths with the help person minimum necessary for departure.
Lindin Restaurant EMV polished walls near Laugarvatn, the town of guides who are professional cavers and Laugarvatn Adventure KB
within the Golden Circle. are active members of the Icelandic Search
Lindarbraut 2 840 Laugarvatni All Laugarvatn Adventure guides have and Rescue Team. Children over fi ve can Hholti 2c 840 Laugarvatni

+354 486 1262 had over a decade of experience in caving go on some of the easier tours, while adults +354 862 5614
lindin@laugarvatn.is and can navigate through almost any of tackle the challenge of rock climbing on smari@caving.is
www.laugarvatn.is these caves. Tours vary in diffi culty from Thing vellirs cragg y cliffs or crawling www.caving.is

Gjbakkahellirs relatively gentle descent, through a small hole at the opening of

366 367
South Iceland

Health
The Land of
Reykjavik Excursions Tours Take in Riding and Health Spas over a natural hot spring and you can hear

T hat little rock in the Arctic that is

Iceland might seem to have little to
offer, but what it does have is beginning
In todays stressful societies, peace and
tranquility are becoming much sought-after
commodities. The benefits of unwinding
power of Gullfoss waterfall, Reykjavik
E xc u r sion s h a s a dde d t he opt ion to
enjoy t he spa at L aug avat n Fonta na,
it bubbling through the open fl ooring at
your feet. Not only do the baths and pools
help improve your health, but those with Ride the Ice annecdotes associated with the sights
to be very much appreciated. Pure air, and enjoying life without pressure are well hor s e r id i n g i n t he c ou nt r y side , or arthritis can benefit from walking on the For the ultimate adventure on the Golden you both pass and stop at, so youre able
pure water, unpolluted food, beautifully known and now Reykjavik Excursions snowmobiling on the Langjkull glacier. warm sands on the edge of the lake. and Circle, you can head up onto Langjkull to get the most out of the tour.
relaxing vistas, wonderful animal and bird makes it possible for you to enjoy your includes the Golden Circle sites. glacier for a thrilling ride on the ice using Taking a winter tour is all the more
life, nature and geology that is unrivalled holiday and gain the benefits the Icelanders powerful snowmobiles. Were talking about spectacular, as the countryside changes
are just a few examples. have been accustomed to all their lives. Riding Mans Most Valued Friend an hour-long ride on Icelands second largest and you may well see one of the most
Icelandic horses are unusual in that they glacier and the views and experience this powerful waterfalls silenced, frozen in an
The Golden Circle With Extras have two additional gaits that make them will give you are amazing. ice sculpture that is astounding to view.
Now Reykjavik Excursions has introduced wonderful to ride. Of course, you can All the tours include pick-up from your This is what makes Iceland so special
tours that take in the famous Golden Circle trot, if you like bouncing up and down, hotel half-an-hour before departure and its seasonal diversity is so great, its as if
but which also add some extra spice. Besides but they have a gait called the tolt which drop off when arriving back in Reykjavik. youre visiting a different country.
seeing the unique sites such as ingvellir, is so smooth and comfortable, you could The lu xur y coaches a ll have wireless Reykjavik
Reykjavik Excursions
Excursions ASF
where the tectonic plates can clearly be seen ride for hours without getting saddle- Internet access so you can immediately
pulling apart at the site where the worlds The Fontana Spa sore. Reykjavik Excursions has teamed Tw e e t or p o s t y ou r e x p e r ie nc e s on BSI
BSI Bus
Bus Terminal
Terminal 101
101 Reykjavk
Reykjavk
longest-running parliament began or the The recently totally renovated and rebuilt up with top stables, Eldhestar, to give an Facebook as you live them, with photos +354 580 5400
geothermal area at Geysir, with its soaring steam baths and pools on the edge of Lake inspiring 12 hour ride, followed by t o p r o v e i t . Yo u l l a p p r e c i a t e t h e main@re.is

columns of steam and after which all Laugarvatn are one of those experiences to a light lunch and a continuation of the comfort as you travel and the guide fills www.re.is

such spouts are named or the thundering remember. The sauna and steam baths sit Golden Circle tour. you in on the background, history and

368 369
South Iceland

Elegant Eating
topped wit h coria nder
cream; Oven baked bacalao in olive and

Delicious dishes in the old town of Eyrabakki at Raua Hsi

tomatconcasse; Seafood trio with mixed
vegetables and potato pure. Or you might

W hat is better tha n a succulent Raua hsi, The Red House, is one of even like to taste oven-roasted cod with
lunch or a seafood dinner on your the most beautiful houses in the village, slowly roasted tomatoes and hollandaise
travels in the southern part of Iceland? The standing by the coastline. Guests will
Raua Hsi restaurant is renowned for its appreciate the sense of history within
delicious seafood dishes, not least the fresh the restaurant and its ambience, with its
lobster. You could even take a special day- windows and lovely wooden floor. The house
trip from Reykjavik to Eyrarbakki. is quite spacious and has about 200 seats but
is not crowded, making dining
both comfortable and suitable
for groups. It used to belong
to Gumunda Nielsen. She
built its oldest part in 1919,
after returning home from
Copenhagen where she studied
business management. She was sauce. Pair a bottle of fi ne wine with any
considered to be an exceptional of the menus offerings and cap it off
lady and opened her retail shop with one of the Raua hsis signature
right after building the house. desserts. Serving a variety of delicious

ASpringEveninginStokkseyri
Icelandic Times checks out Fjrubori Restaurant
C hef Robert was busy pouring drinks
when we arrived. The well known
song Vork vld Reykjavik, (a Spring
W h ate ver n a me you g o by, it w a s
de l ic iou s a nd I wou ld h ave h a ppi ly
eaten another bowlful had I not needed
Old World Village Charm
Eyrarbak ki was once one of the most
important trading centres in Iceland but
Evening in Reykjavik) was playing softly to move on to taste everything else that has evolved into a charming and tranquil
in the background. A table of tourists was set before me: lobster tails that were village of less tha n 600 inhabita nts.
who had spent the day exploring a glacier perfect in themselves, homebaked bread Many of its houses were built in the early
with a g uide, ta lked a nimated ly over with various dipping sauces and if, per 1900s and the village has maintained a
dinner in the front room. The low slung chance, you are not partial to sea food, From the outside, Fjrubori appears turn-of-the-century, freewheeling charm
building with pleasantly creaky wooden there is a wonderf u lly tender roa sted deceptively small but, in fact, it can seat and atmosphere. Eyrabakki boasts many
f loors, once ser ving as the search and fillet of lamb served with baby potatoes several hundred all told, something that beautifully restored fi ne timber buildings.
rescue building of Stokkseyri, is now one and red wine sauce that is excellent. those having a tte--tte in the main The oldest of them, The House, built by a
of the most popular lobster restaurants A crisp salad made with local produce bu i ld i ng wou ld ne ver g ue s s. Faci ng Danish Merchant in 1765, now houses the
in Icela nd, wit h over 35,0 0 0 patrons was refreshing and nicely complemented the ocean out back, a large permanent rnes Folk Museum.
dining there in 2011. t he s e a fo o d a nd me at d i she s. R i g ht marquee can seat another 100 or so guests. Langoustines from the Birthplace of fi sh and meat dishes, guests will fi nd the
on cue as soon as we had f inished the All that to say, groups are welcome. Lobster Fishing in Iceland restaurants cuisine is a nice mixture of
15 tons of lobsters cant be wrong. lobster tails, our attentive server brought Favoured by tour guides who of ten Lobster fi shing in Iceland was born off the both international and Icelandic, but local
Fjr ubori s website says t hat some a warm wet cloth for our, by then, messy bring their clients here as the ultimate shores of Eyrarbakki in 1954. Icelanders ingredients fi gure prominently.
15 tons of lobster are used annually to hands, which was much appreciated. fi nish to a perfect day of sightseeing, the were late to discover the various seafood
make its famous soup, aka langoustine restaurant has received several well known delicacies. In fact it was not till the mid- Return to Reykjavik with a Full Stomach
soup. Hmmm...impressive statistics but persona lities such a s Prince Frederik 20th century that the locals discovered that Raua Hsi is a popular spot for travellers
does it really live up to its reputation? of Denma rk, t he Rockefel lers, Clint not only was the small Langoustine lobster returning to Reykjavik or wanting a pleasant
After all, there are many fine restaurants Eastwood, Martha Stewart, Bette Midler edible, it was delicious! evening trip, as it is just 50 km from the
right in the capital, so is it really worth and Cherie Booth (wife of Tony Blair). capital, with an easy and beautiful drive.
the 45 minute drive over a mountain in Fjrubori EMV Menu Suggestions Raua Hsi AMB
sometimes dubious weather conditions? One of the most popular dishes besides the
Yes! I am happy to report that the soup Eyrarbraut 3a 825 Stokkseyri lobster which the restaurant is famous for Barstg 4 820 Eyrarbakka
was sublime. A nd just forget the word +354 483 1550 is the Catch of the Day, which consists +354 483 3330
s oup, how p e d e s t r i a n ! C he f R ob er t info@fjorubordid.is of three diff erent seafood dishes prepared raudahusid@raudahusid.is

informs me that it is, in fact, a classic www.fjorubordid.is from the freshest ingredients available: www.raudahusid.is

bisque de langoustine. L obster soup, wit h a hint of Cognac

370 371
South Iceland

Birds of
Southern Iceland
A Birdwatchers Paradise

B irds of Southern Iceland is a programme

offering excellent year-round services
for birdwatchers. Southern Iceland has a
t here is su f f icient water, veget at ion
sprouts up and attracts a range of birds.
Th e spectacular Skaftafell National Park
scenery, with rich swathes of vegetation
alternating with barren sands and glaciers.
The area represents very important breeding
Duck, Ringed Plover, Purple Sandpiper,
Arctic Tern and Snow Bunting. Barrows
Goldeneye winters here and has recently bred.
Duck and Red-breasted Merganser stop off
on passage and are also common breeders.

great deal to offer visiting birdwatchers contains woodlands and a variety of species. and moulting grounds for Pink-footed Geese. Lakes, ponds and marshes can be found Lake ingvallavatn
with its wide variety of habitats, including Other breeders include Great Northern across the lowland areas of Landeyjar and Sogi, the river which f lows out of lake
wetlands, seabird colonies, highland oases Freshwater hotspots Diver, Whooper Swan, Long-tailed Duck, Rangarrvellir. Some of the best birding ingvallavatn, is one of Icelands best locations
and unique coastlines. The largest colonies The areas Landbrot and Mealland support Purple Sandpiper, Red-necked Phalarope, sites are the lake Skmsstaavatn and for winter ducks. It is home to the largest flock
of Puffin, Pink-footed Goose and Great a wide range of birds. The regions wetlands Arctic Tern and Snow Bunting. Part of surroundings, Oddaf l (protected) and of Barrows Goldeneye outside Mvatn and is
Skua in the world are located within this are varied and include flood-meadows, lakes, jrsrver is protected and a Ramsar site. lake Lambhagavatn. Large numbers of the main winter site for Common Goldeneye
region, together with the Europes largest springs, streams and lava fields. Breeding birds Another key birding location in the wildfowl and waders breed in the area and in Icela nd. Goosa nder, Red-brea sted
Leachs Storm-petrel colony. South Iceland include Horned Grebe and various ducks. The highlands is the chain of lakes called pass through in the spring and autumn. Merganser and Tufted Duck are common.
has a wide range of accommodation from freshwater springs attract numerous birds in the Veiivtn. This beautiful and unusual Two of the larger lakes in the area, White-tailed Eagles are often seen in winter
camp sites to 4 -star hotels and some within winter and form important wintering grounds landscape has been shaped by repeated Apavatn and Laugar vatn, a long with and Harlequin Ducks move up the river in
a short driving distance from Reykjavik. for Barrows Goldeneye, Common Goldeneye volcanic activity and most of the lakes are adjoining wetlands and rivers, are among spring. Lake ingvallavatn itself is known for
and Goosander. White-fronted Geese are located in craters. Great Northern Divers are the best sites for ducks in southern Iceland. its breeding Great Northern Divers.
Laggons and glacial sands common visitors on spring and autumn passage. particularly common, and other breeding Barrows Goldeneye, Common Goldeneye
Hornafjrur and Stakksfjrur are shallow birds include Whooper Swan, Pink-footed and Goosander winter here. Harlequin Ducks lfus River
fjords or coastal lagoons on either side of the Dales, highlands and lakes Goose, Scaup, Long-tailed Duck, Harlequin breed locally and hundreds of Scaup, Tufted The coastline between the mouths of the Icelands reserve at Fli on the east bank, and
village of Hfn. The area is home to large The valley of Mrdalur is a rich birding area, great glacial rivers lfus and jrs is the lfusforir on the west bank. Both are large
numbers of birds all year round. Not only is it with Reynisfjall, Reynisdrangar and Dyrhlaey largest lava shoreline in Iceland and forms expanses of pools and lakes which attract
an important staging area on migration, but the chief birding sites. Puffins breed on the the southern end of the vast jrsrhraun numerous birds in the breeding season and
breeding birds are well represented in spring cliffs at Vkurhamrar above the village of Vk lava field which f lowed 8,000 years ago on passage alike. The Red-throated Diver
and summer. It is also the regions main (the furthest colony from the sea in the world), and is the largest post-ice age lava flow on is the characteristic bird of the Fli reserve
wintering area for birds. A rich mosaic of on Mt Reynisfjall and the headland Dyrhlaey, Earth. Inland there are myriad lakes and and Dunlin and Black-tailed Godwit are
Images by Jhann li Hilmarsson

wetlands stretches from Hfn all the way west while Common Guillemot and Razorbill ponds. The area hosts an array of birds all particularly common here. lfusforir is
to the glacial sands of Breiamerkursandur. breed at the sea stacks Reynisdrangar and at year and it is of particular importance for an excellent birding location in winter,
The bird life of the great glacial sands Dyrhlaey. There is a huge Arctic Tern colony migrants such as Knot, Dunlin, Sanderling, attracting large f locks of Teal, Mallard
of the south coast has a character all of its at Vk and a smaller one at Dyrhlaey. Turnstone, Brent Goose, Eurasian Wigeon and Goosander, as well as Icelands largest
own. It is the kingdom of the Great Skua jrsrver to the south of the glacier and various other ducks. concentration of Grey Heron.
and is home to the largest colony of this Hofsjkull is the most expansive oasis in the On either side of the estuary of the lfus
charismatic species on Earth. Wherever central highlands. It is an area of spectacular river there are two large wetlands: BirdLife JH

372 373
South Iceland

Geothermal Cycling a dip in a geotherma lly-heated river.

Whatever your pace and level of fi tness,
Whatever Your Pace, Iceland Activities Has a Ride for You
Iceland Activities will meet you there.

I celand Activities may well be the only

tour company in Iceland that specialises
in tours and activities exclusively in the
to all our favourite places that we have
grown up with, says Ulfar Andrsson, 23,
who along with his sister, Slveig and their
Iceland on your own
Cycling around Iceland is a healthy and
enjoyable way to explore the country on
Hengill Geothermal Area, famous for its mom Steinunn are an integral part of the your own. You can rent your own quality
natural hot springs. Its also a company family business. bike for anywhere from 4 hours to 3 days or
that truly is family-run in every sense of longer and it comes complete with bicycle
the word. We are a sports-minded family Your Pace is our Pace helmet and a suggested itinerary.
who have been exploring the Hengill area I c e l a n d A c t i v it i e s g u i d e d b i k i n g ,
together for the last 25 years. When our hiking and walking tours in and around Hotsprings around Hverageri
kids were small we took them with us on Hverageri and the Hengill Geothermal Guided Bike Tour
Icela nd Activities of fers a n exclusive

Adrenalin High
guided bike tour in and around Hverageri
and then takes you to observe the new

Pump Yourself Up on the High Rope at Adrenalin Adventure

geothermal park that was created by an
earthquake in 2008. Have fun boiling eggs
in one of the many hot springs and end the
day relaxing at the Hverageri swimming
pool. Got kids? Iceland Activities has child-
D o e s f ly i n g h i g h i n a s w i n g or
cha llenging yourself ten metres
above the ground in the midst of a amazing
are also interesting, shaped by the geothermal
power and Icelands harnessing of it.
There are a total of forty five obstacles you
sized bikes, activities and tours to suit the environment of geological wonders give can try out in the park! Each obstacle has its
youngest members of your group. you a boost? Then AdrenalinHigh Rope own characteristics; in some you are climbing trust the line youre fastened to, you will totally
Adventure in the Nesjavellir Rift Valleyis between tyres, in others you are walking a thin forget the height and lose yourself in the fun!
Gearing it up a notch ideal for you. Situated close to the capital line and in yet another, taking one step at a This highly entertaining park is a great
I f you ye a r n for st i l l more, Ic el a nd area, this entertaining fun park offers you time over a quite unstable bridge. choice whether you want to do something
Activities also offers surf ing on south a great chance to get the adrenalin flowing The obstacles are designed in the way that fun with your family or incentive group on
Icela nd s fa mous black sa nd beaches through your body; whether you prefer to do everybody can have a choice. You can, for your way to ingvellir National Park and
or group activities especially geared to it one, five or ten metres above the ground. example, start by choosing the height you want the Golden Circle or if you want to add yet
young people. Have fun this summer with The location of this entertainment park is, to try outwhether you want to jump straight another element to your nature experience and
Iceland Activities! itself, interesting. Nesjavellir, Adrenalins next into obstacles ten metres above the ground, or adrenalin activities in Iceland.
Iceland Activities EMV door neighbour, is the provider of Reykjaviks go the middle route to those five metres above Adrenalngarurinn NHH
energy and hot water, being unique for the ground or if you want to start slowly one
every trip, every summer - biking, hiking, area are rated from easy to strenuous Mnamrk 3-5 810 Hverageri its geothermal activity. When visiting the metre above the ground. Sklatni 4 105 Reykjavk
fishing, camping - we have done it all, a nd suitable for a ll ages. Travel over +354 777 6263 valley, you will recognise the unusual smell And theres no need to worry, your security is +354 414 2910
says Andrs Ulfarsson, who founded the 1,10 0 ye a r- old she ep pat h s h ig h up icelandactivities@icelandactivities.is of Icelands hot watera smell specific to a priority at Adrenalin and the staff are highly adrenalin@adrenalin.is

company in 2010. It was only natural for in the mountains that criss-cross this www.icelandactivities.is geothermal activity. The areas surroundings trained in safety precautions. Once you start to www.adrenalin.is

us to launch this business, taking visitors magnifi cent volcanic area and then take

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 Viking Tours of the Westman Islands
Experience the Haunting Music of Bird, Man and Whale

M ountainous, mysterious, and one

of those places on virtually every
tourists wish list. Seen from the mainland,
The Herjlfur ferr y, from its brand
new port just outside of the town of
Hvolsvllur, plies the waters that separate
the jagged archipelago rises dramatically the islands from the mainland, making
from the horizon, breaking the skyline from the easy 2530 minute crossing several
Icelands south coast with a sort of come times a day. Now you have no excuse not
hither look that you cannot evade. to see the Westman Islands!

The Circle Tour

A fun and refreshing way to sight-see
in the Westman Islands, Viking Tours
specially designed tour boat takes you
around the main island of Heimaey, 2 or
3 times a day in summer.
The 90-minute tour gives you a chance to
peek into caves, observe puffins and concludes
with the haunting saxophone music which fills
the singing cave of Klettshellur, renowned for
its superb acoustics and performed beautifully
by Sigurmundur Einarsson, director of
Viking Tours.

The Coach Tour

Another delightful way to explore the island
is by Viking Tours coach which departs from 10 million puffins cant be wrong
the main harbour every day, year round. The In staggering numbers, these adorable birds

Westman islands guided tour takes you to the still-warm Eldfell

crater which erupted over the whole island in
1973, the effects of which are easily observable
throughout Heimaey. You will also get a
f lock to the archipelago year after year,
the first arriving on schedule around the
12th14th of April. The best time of day to
see them is in the late afternoon and early
chance to observe puffins at Strhfi. evening when the puffi n parents return to
their burrows after spending the day fishing
on the sea, says Sigurmundur.

Westman Islands Whale watching

With whole families of Killer Whales and
dolphins arriving in July, the Westman
I s l a nd s a re a g re at pl a c e f or w h a le
watching, boasting the largest population
of these sea mammals in Iceland. Viking
Tours can organise a whale watching tour
for you on request.
All Viking Tours trips begin and end
at the cosy Caf Kr down at the main
harbour, where you can take in the 55
minute film about the 1973 eruption and
learn how this singular event changed the
face of the Westman Islands forever.
Viking Tours EMV

Tangagtu 7 900 Vestmannaeyjum

+354 488 4884

viking@vikingtours.is
www.vikingtours.is

377
South Iceland

A Weekend in
the Westman Islands Experience Adventure, Birdlife and Volcanic Fallout

I f the Westman Islands is not on your

itinerary this summer, it really should
be. The once difficult to reach archipelago is
of Iceland. There are several restaurants and
cafs in town serving lunch and dinner, such
as Caf Maria, Caf Kro, and Caf Vulcano.
sail right up
close to the cliffs. island in recent years,
now easily accessible via the new ferry route Hllinn is the main venue for events of all sizes From that vantage point, they their numbers are still in the
that leaves from Landeyjarhfn, transporting between 1963 and 1966. Now a protected nature in the Westman Islands and can provide lunch resemble noisy high-rise apartment buildings thousands, so your chances of catching sight
you and your car to the island in just about reserve, it is possible to circle the island by boat or dinner for groups, large or small. with the occupants out on their balconies Action on Land and Sea of one of these darling birds is very high.
30 minutes. Or, if you prefer, there is a but going onto the island itself is off-limits. The sheer vertical walls that are characteristic having fun chatting, swooping from perch Looking for some action? Get your ya-yas
small airport just minutes from the port In spite of Heimaeys small size, there is plenty of many of the islands within the archipelago to roost and of course taking turns with their out with a high-paced adventure tour in and Pompeii of the North
which can fly you over in about 6 minutes to see and do, so staying overnight in one of are home to thousands of kittywakes, fulmars obligatory nest-sitting duties. The waters that around the archipelago by joining a 90-minute Round out your tour of the Westman Islands
on a little 6 -seater plane. W hichever the islands hotels, guest houses, self-contained and gannets. Viking Tours offers 90-minute surround the island are outstanding shades of rib-safari (RIB is the acronym for rigid with a walk around town to see where the
mode of transportation you prefer, getting cottages or camp sites would not be out of order boat trips around the island, enabling you to a deep turquoise colour that you would never inflatable boats which are used increasingly for lava flow stopped in 1973. Partially engulfed
there is all part of the fun. to give you a real feel for this very special corner expect to find in the ocean at this latitude, tourism in Iceland), exploring caves and maybe buildings can still be seen and there is even
giving the impression of an island dipped in even heading out to see that famous newcomer an ongoing archaeological dig that visitors
Home to Man and Birds-Lots of Them crystal-turquoise ink and making island, Surtsey. Or perhaps youd like to tour welcome to help out with. Over 400 homes
Heimaey, literally Home Island, is the biggest for a tr u ly memorable the island on one of those curious vehicles and buildings were destroyed by the 1973
and only inhabited land in this chain of 14 islands experience. called a Segway Personal Transporter that are eruption and the aim of the project called
including the more recent Surtsey, which new to the Westman Islands and an ideal and Pompei of the North is to excavate at least 7
erupted up from the sea bed fun way of getting around. to 10 houses, giving us a glimpse into the lives
of those affected by this largest natural disaster
Killer Whales and the Priest of the Sea in Iceland in recent memory.
In the summer months, the Westman Islands Vestmannaeyjabr EMV
are home to pods of killer whales and, of
course, the illustrious puffins which can be Rhsinu 900 Vestmannaeyjum
seen out on the sea during the day or hanging +354 488 2000
out near their burrows in the evening. While postur@vestmannaeyjar.is

there have been fewer puffins arriving in the www.vestmannaeyjar.is

378 379
 The
Highlands Iceland in a Nutshell - Step off the plane and step into history

N
othing in Iceland prepares you for the stark, desolate,
raw beauty of the barren upland plateau called the
Highlands. An uninhabited area, The Highlands
are completely without towns or villages, just infinite
plains, glacial rivers and lavafields punctuated by ice caps,
volcanoes and jagged mountains. The isolation is the reason
why people visit and travellers are humbled by the sublime
sight of nature in its rawest, barest form. Historically, trails in
the Highlands were used as summer short cuts between
north and south and myths of ghosts and fearsome outlaws
spurred travellers along the tracks with all speed. Today, it
is probably wiser to worry about the weather, as conditions
can be fickle and snow is not uncommon, even in mid-
summer. The solitude is exhilarating, the views are vast
and it is immensely tough but equally rewarding to hike or
bike these cross-country routes. Any self-driving, cycling or
hiking trip must be carefully planned. There are no roads in
this area, just tracks and hardly any bridges across the rivers.
Of all the various tracks, only two routes actually cross the
whole way between north and south: Sprengisandur (F26)
and Kjlur (F35). The region is fully accessible only by four-
wheel-drives. It is also possible to get a taste of this utter
isolation in safety on bus tours where you will discover
amazing landscapes, similar to lunar landscapes. Which is
the reason why the Apollo astronauts came there to train
for their moon landing! Kjlur, the area between the Langjkull and Hofsjkull glaciers

380 381
Kerlingarfjll is a mountain range situated in the Highlands

Veiivtn (Fishing lakes) a group of lakes in a volcanic region The volcanic origin of Kerlingarfjll is evidenced by the numerous hot springs and rivulets in the area
A view over beautiful Veiivtn area

Landmannalaugar, a region near Mt.Hekla volcano

Highlands

Landmannalaugar
A special place in the hearts and minds of the Icelandic people
L andmanna laugar is a part of
Fjallabak Nature Reserve and is one
of the most beloved outdoor recreational
to test the water in the geothermal pool.
For some hikers coming over the 55 km
Laugavegurinn hiking route, it is like the
at www.re.is. Once in Landmannalaugar,
it stops for about t wo hou rs, before
returning to Reykjavik. The round trip
Landmannalaugar can also be reached
by bicycle, on foot or by horse. Biking is
an inexpensive option but can be difficult
fit mountain runners cover the distance
in 4-5 hours. The annual Lauga vegurinn
marathon is scheduled for 13th July 2013.
there are three common rooms and one
private room. The hut sleeps 75 people at
a time in bunk-beds, and mattresses. The
areas in Iceland. It is an active geothermal Promised Land. Visitors may also want to takes about 12 hours. because of the weather and road conditions. A handful of horse riding companies hut is heated and gas is used for cooking.
a rea in a va lley bet ween ta ll rhyolite try horse riding and perhaps, at some stage, In winter, visitors can join a guided tour T he sc hedu led bu s se s ac c om mod ate offer riding trips to Landmannalaugar Basic utensils for cooking are available,
mountains displaying amazing colours buy a cup of coffee or some other basic in a modified 4x4, generally referred to as a bicycles for a modest fee. The gravel roads i n su m mer. It h a s b e en p o s sible to such as pots and pans, cutlery etc. If youre
ranging from pink to green. needs in the highland shop located in two Super Truck or Super Jeep. are suitable for good mountain bikes. joi n a g u id e d hor s e r id i n g t ou r i n planning to stay there, it is important to
Landmanna laugars famous natura l old American school busses in summer. A l l of t he t h re e roa d s le a d i n g to Hiking trails are suitable for experienced Landmannalaugar for the last few years. book ahead. Please contact Feraflag
pool nestles under the Laugahraun lava Finally, there are some great hikes in Landmannalaugar are mountain roads, or b i k e r i d e r s w i t h e x c e l l e nt q u a l i t y slands via their website: www.fi .is.
field dating back to 1477. The natural pool Landmannalaugar to last visitors a few days. F-roads (the F stands for Fjallavegur, which mountain bikes and sense of duty not to Where to Stay
attracts hikers and day visitors. means mountain road). Car insurance is leave tire marks in nature. It is possible Fera fla g sla nd s ( Ic ela nd Tou ri ng Near the main hut theres an
Landmannalaugar is a popular tourist How to Get There either nonexistent or very limited when to rent Trek mountain bikes in Reykjavik. Association), founded in 1927, built the shower block with toilets and
attraction a nd a hub for the fa mous T he h ig h la nd road s lead ing into driving on F-roads. Drivers who get stuck Check w w w.reykjavikbiketours.is for first hut in Landmannalaugar in 1951. shower facilities. Theres also a
Laugavegur hike between Landmannalaugar, Landmannalaugar usually stay open from in an un-bridged river must pay for the more information. The current building is from 1969 but campsite on a rocky plain which is
rsmrk and Skgar. This otherworldly mid-June through to the end of August entire damage. One road, the F208 from H i k i n g i s a n o t h e r f a v o u r it e w a y has been enlarged and improved since. very popular in summer.
even the end of September, unless it snows.
place in the Icelandic wilderness is only about the north, has no rivers until the very to re a c h L a nd m a n n a l au g a r. A l mo s t The hut is 600 metres above sea level
4 hours drive from Reykjavik. I n s u m m e r, t he r e s a r e g u l a r d a i l y endright next to the Landmannalaugar everyone who arrives there on foot comes and stands right next to Laugahraun lava Landmannalaugar has a special place
highland bus ser vice from Reykjavik, campsite and geothermal spring. Theres via the popular Laugavegur hiking trail fi eld and the popular geothermal spring. in the hearts and minds of the Icelandic
What to do in Landmannalaugar as well as guided tours. The bus departs parking and a pedestrian bridge to the from rs mrk Nature Reser ve. T he Th e building has two fl oors. Downstairs people as generations have enjoyed the
The first and most important thing to do from the BS bus terminal in Reykjavik at other side. The F208 is the safest option hike usually takes 3-4 days and covers theres a large common room for sleeping, area, largely due to the pioneering eff orts
when arriving in Landmannalaugar is 08:00 in the morning. Check the website for regular cars. 55 km in the mountains. Competition kitchen, entrance and storage. Upstairs of Feraflag slands. SV

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Highlands

A Glacier Walk
made possible
Enjoy the beauty of the glaciers with Icelandic Mountain Guides

Awards and recognitions

2006: Iceland Air Pioneer
Award for the innovation and
S tanding on top of a glacier is a goal
you d i m a g i ne on ly e x p er ienc e d
mountain climbers are able to achieve,
of a glacier with us, says Leifur. With
everything from family-friendly glacier
walks to quite challenging hikes through
development of Glacier Walks.
but its actually simpler than you think Icelands most scenic destinations, including
2009: The Environmental its even achievable in a days trip from Hvannadalshnkur (Icelands highest peak),
Award from the Icelandic
Tourist Board for environmental
Reykjavik. But one cannot, of course, walk Eyjafjallajkull volcano, Hrtsfjallstindar
policy and awareness safely on top of a treacherous glacier without and Fimmvruhls. It is true to say that all
the help of experienced guides who have outdoor enthusiasts can fi nd something to
2010: The Icelandic Travel Industry
Association (SAF) Education
mapped out every crack in the ice and know their liking with Icelandic Mountain Guides.
Award for education and the difference a single misstep can make.
continuous training of guides For over eighteen years Icelandic Mountain Setting the bar for safety
2010: The Icelandic Travel Industry
Guides have been finding ways to make Before taking inexperienced mountaineers up
Association Innovation Award these imposing phenomena reachable to all to these glittering jewels, they had to make sure
for the innovation and those who wish to explore them. that all possible safety measures were taken,
development of Glacier Walks.
which is why theyve implemented a strenuous
The company has also been Step Into a Different World training programme for all their guides. The
nominated for the Nordic Nature Icelandic Mountain Guides offer day tours from educational programme entails 27 days of direct
and Environmental Prize 2011.
Reykjavik to the Slheimajkull glacier, as well training and exams, followed by over 100 days
as several day tours from Skaftafell National under direct and indirect supervision, including
Park, which connects to Europes largest comprehensive first-aid courses. These steps
glacier, Vatnajkull. But why would anyone have paid off, as Icelandic Mountain Guides
want to visit such a foreign and unforgiving accident free history and the awards theyve won
landscape? For Leifur rn Svavarsson, guide for education and safety demonstrate.
and co-founder of Icelandic Mountain Guides,
who has scaled the glaciers hundreds of times Not just ice
and never tires of it, the answer is simple: It is Icelandic Mountain Guides offer a wide
like stepping into a different world. Standing range of outdoor and adventure tours in
on top of pure ice, hearing the creaks and flow both Iceland and Greenland with everything
of water underneath, seeing the caves and from short day tours to overnight tours and
crevasses, gets you as close to the essence of expeditions. Find more information about
Iceland as is possible. We have been doing it day tours at the Icelandic Travel Market at
since we were young and simply felt that you Bankastrti 2 in Reykjavik or their offices in
can never fully experience Iceland without Skgar and Skaftafell National Park.
trying it, which is why we established Icelandic Mountainguides VAG
Mountain Guides, says Leifur.
Bankastrti 2 101 Reykjavik
Glacier Walks are easy & accessible to all +354 587 9999
The range of tours is designed to fit the mountainguides@mountainguides.is

needs of Icelands different visitors. If you www.mountainguides.is

can walk up stairs, you can reach a part

388 389
Highlands

folk tales telling how an old troll woman Northern Lights as they sweep across the
stayed out too late and didnt make it to sky in a dance that can last for hours,
her home in the mountains before the sun with a totally different performance each
rose and turned her to stone. A 25 metre- night against a backdrop of glistening
high tuff stone pillar, said to be the troll, mountains and glaciers.
gives the range its name. Other folk tales It is one of t he d rie st pa r t s of t he
describe the area being used as a haven or country yet, during the winter months,
sanctuary for robbers and outcasts. it is covered in snow, transforming the
scene once aga in. This is the time to
An Oasis in the Desert t ravel by superjeep a s K erling a r f jl l

Between the Glaciers

This would be an austere region were is a very interesting destination in the From t he pea k of t he 1477 met re- Melting Treasures
it not for the restaurant and cottages winter as well. high Snkollur mountain, you can see Geologists from many parts of the world

Breathtaking experiences and stunning hiking treks in Kerlingarfjll

situated at sgarur, in the green valley the seas in both the north and south on come to see its treasures - some of which,
at the north eastern end of the canyon See From Sea to Sea a clea r day, which ma kes the summit according to Dr. Simon Carr of the Dept

I f hiking is your passion, the challenge

of new places is in your blood. This
is one reason for the surge in popularity
hosting the third largest geothermal area
in the interior: Kerlingarfjll.
Kerlingarfjll are 80 km from Gullfoss,
leading from the main geothermal area,
Hveradalir. They transform the hiking
experience by provid ing comfor table
It is little wonder that Kerlinga rf jll second to none when comparing the size
is a popu la r place to stay in summer of area one can see from it.
though, as many people love to enjoy
of Geography at Queen Mary College,
University of London, could disappear in
a matter of a couple of decades, making it
in hiking trips to Iceland. There are just partly on gravel roads that have been a c c omo d at ion for up to 10 0 p e ople the wonders of nature a long with the Formed in Fire all the more imperative to visit and enjoy
so many varied hikes to take and various improved for normal vehicles. During the a nd good food bot h before t he st a r t peace and tranquility it offers. The area Born in a volcanic eruption, Kerlingarfjll its wonders while they are still there.
levels of difficulty. summer months, the Sterna bus company and at the end of a long days hike. Not is big enough that its solitude is rarely is a relatively young range of mountains, Until 2000, this used to be one of
Up pa st t he cla ssic tourist sites of and SBA have regular services there. only that, but the natural hot pool is a interrupted by another hiker and yet, unusually created from ryolite, liparite Icelands most popular destinations for a
Geysir and Gullfoss, the road reverts to This entire trip is one of superlatives wonderful place to relax and soothe sore amazingly, there is mobile phone access, a nd bot h d a rk a nd brig ht t u f f stone summer skiing school but since that time,
gravel as it heads into the highlands of the as every aspect of the nature cries out for muscles. In the winter months, it gives so you are never far from modern life, about 10,000 yea rs old. This is what no lifts have operated as the snows have
interior along the Hvt (White River), up your attention. The different elements the added experience of watching the should you need to communicate. gives it its constantly changing colouring, melted and the glaciers retreated under the
between the Langjkull and Hofsjkull play with each other, creating a vista depending on the light, the sun and the effects of the changing climate.
glaciers. This relatively f lat territor y, of const a nt ly cha ng ing , sh im mering time of day. When it was being created, In Spring, the melting snow creates unusual
forming a large plateau named Kjlur colours and forms throughout the day t here wa s a glacier covering t he mid sculptures, swelling the many streams that
(meaning keel of a vessel). Here, between and over the months. The pristine, pure, highlands. In some places, it seems tuff turn into rivers, flowing in different directions.
these glaciers rises a group of mountains, clean air and the thundering silence of stone burst through the ice, becoming Amongst them is the mighty Hvt that gives
the surrounding mountain peaks draws covered with lava. the Gullfoss waterfall its power and makes it
you into hiking its many trails. Plumes Kerling a r f jl l is at t he centre of a such a magnet for tourists. Yet, it all begins
of steam rise from geothermal vents and system of volcanoes, with one of the most here, in the area around Kerlingarfjll.
hot springs over a landscape coloured powerful hot spring areas in Iceland. It Kerlingarfjll ASF
red, yellow and green by the different is a ver y active geotherma l area still,
minerals and natural chemicals. with plenty of warm streams and pools rnesssla 801 Selfoss
f lowing out from different parts of the +354 664 7000
Who is the old woman? mounta in ra nge. Some of t he geysirs info@kerlingafjoll.is

The name, Kerlingarfjll means Old have melted the glacial ice and created www.kerlingarfjoll.is

Womans Mountains and comes from impressive arches, caves and ice rocks.

390 391
Highlands

Beyond

Philippe Patay
the mountains Where nature imposes silence

F jallabak means beyond the mountains

in Icelandic. Its the name of an old
walking route that meanders through a tangle
Travelling is, above all, a way to realise your
dreams, to satisfy your curiosity or to keep the
nomadic spirit alive, all the while storing visual
The Fours Seasons Tour
The Four Seasons of Iceland tour around
Iceland is open to all. The approximately
You can choose to participate in all or part Beyond the Mountains
of this tour, join up with it at any point Hike Mount Hek la, one of the most
along the way or leave before the end. famous volcanos in Iceland or the volcanic
are treks that combine the most beautiful
sites of South Iceland with hiking in the
remote highlands of the Fjallabak region
of paths crisscrossing the volcanic highlands of mementos in ones heart and soul. 3,000 km route takes 27 days, averaging highlands of rfi along the shores of in centre of the country.
Icelands interior. This track is the birthplace of Depending on the time and budget you 125 km per day, with plenty of time for Off the Beaten Path the Elves Mountains on the east of the Philippe Patay, founder and director
the sport of hiking in Iceland. have available, between one and four weeks beautiful walks, nature watching and Tota l immersion in t he hea rt of t his isla nd a trek ra nked a mong t he 25 of Fja llaba k ha s lived in Icela nd for
are needed to truly discover Iceland and contemplation. It takes into account the unforgettable country is something that is most beautiful in the world according to over 40 years and is one of the trekking
Transcendence choose the trip that suits you best. climate and seasons, the flora and birdlife. sought out by hikers. Th ere are countless National Geographic. The isolation of pioneers in Ic ela nd. Wit h nea rly 30
If you dream of exploring the great outdoors, routes in Iceland which, were they in the region accompanied by sudden mood years of experience leading specialised
observing raw nature and volcanic phenomena, mainland Europe, would be famous hiking swings of the elements require everyone treks around the country, the Fjallabak
Iceland is undoubtedly one of the best places for trails, well documented and certainly well to be in good physical shape. These treks tea m e xper t ly at tend s to t he det a i ls
this type of adventure. Theres nothing like total trod. But here in Iceland, apart from a are for adventure purists, contemplative of organisation, safet y and planning,
immersion to uncover the secrets of this country. few arctic foxes and fl ocks of migratory healthy types, free spirits and lovers of allowing you to relax and enjoy yourself
Leave Highway No. 1 behind, go with a birds, visitors to them have been few and the great outdoors who wish to immerse to the full. Let Philippe, with his team of
professional guide and discover the vast and far between ever since Iceland rose out of themselves in the raw nature and to discover professional guides, take you on a journey
extraordinary scenery of the interior. Feelings the ocean. With the advent of walking as landscapes that are only barely imaginable. of discovery into Icelands vast and remote
of awe, peace and a sense of revitalization are a sport discipline, certain paths have only Expeditions on foot or Nordic skis are only hinterlands, truly at the end of the world.
among the emotions you may feel during your just been discovered and have become for the most hardy and experienced hikers Fjallabak EMV
stay and whether you prefer hiking, riding or globally known, such as the Laugavegur and mountaineers, who delight in pitting
skiing, a variety of treks to the highlands are trail. W hile well maintained with trail their skills against the likes of the sheer Po.Box 1622 121 Reykjavk
possible. Offering a subtle mix of effort and markers and strategically located huts, slope of a volcanic ridge. +354 511 3070
pleasure, highland treks are very conducive its raw beauty is just a tantalising taste For visitors who hesitate between a trek info@fjallabak.is

to some great encounters, whether via a small of the mysterious hidden beauties to be in a particular area and seeing a broad www.fjallabak.is

group of hikers or with Icelanders themselves. found within Iceland. spectrum of the Icelandic landscape, there

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Highlands

Kerlingarfjll
the untouched
beauty A Hikers paradise in the interior
O nly accesible three to four months
per year on Road 35, this area of
the Highlands is one of the best unspoiled
gems on the list of Icelandic wonderlands.
Unexplored up to the 19 th century, it was
believed to be the homeland of trolls and the
only people that would venture here were
dramatically. As you approach Kerlingarfjll,
you enter a desolate, fantasy land scenery.
The diverse geology of the mountains creates
a spectacular flow of colours. The volcanic
rhyolite stone taints the mountains red. The
minerals emerging from the hot springs also
colour the ground yellow, red and green.
thieves and outlaws. Today, Kerlingarfjll is
still an unbeaten track by most tourists and it Accommodation in the former skiing huts
should be on the checklist of all nature lovers. On the banks of sgars river lie the
former sk iing huts that now provide
The land of trolls accommodation for up to 28 people.
K erl i ng a r f jl l me a n s Old Woma ns Kerlingarfjll used to be a popular ski
Mountain, a name inspired by ancient folk resort in the summer. In the year 2000, all
tales. It is said that an old troll lady was the ski lifts were disassambled and the resort
caught out by the sunrise and therefore was closed for this type of activity due to the
turned to stone. You can still see her changes in the climate and the glaciers retreat.
silhouette carved in the 25 m high tuff stone
pillar at Kerlingartindur peak. Add Kerlingarfjll to your Golden Circle
Sterna, one of Icelands leading bus companies
Raised from fire and ice is the only travel agency that offers day tours
Iceland is often called the country of fire to Kerlingarfjll, combined with an afternoon
and ice. One can truly understand this at at the famous Golden Circle. Daily departures
the Kerlingarfjll mountain range. Formed between 20th of June and 7th of September. The
during a volcanic eruption about 10,000 companys motto is Avoid the big crowds,
years ago, this is one of the most active so Sterna promises to take you to ingvellir,
geothermal areas in Iceland. In the nature Geysir and Gullfoss at a time of day when other
reserve, you can see splashing mud puddles, tourist traffic is low. You can book a day trip
vents through which the earth breathes with Sterna at any travel agency in Reykjavk.
angrily and the hot spring area between the But remember: You get a 5% discount if
two rivers of sgars and Kisa. you book online at www.sternatravel.com.
Kerlingarfjll is situated between two Children under 6 years can join the tour for
glaciers, Langjkull and Hofsjkull. The free and they get 50% off if they are between
microglaciers and snowdrifts found on 7 and 15 years old. Plus, you are offered a free
the plateau offer unique experiences and hotel pickup in Reykjavk.
photographic opportunities. If you get AB
Sterna
lucky, you might see small caves carved in
the snow by warm streams of water. Krkhlsi 12 110 Reykjavk

+354 551 1166

Rainbow mountains sterna@sterna.is

When you drive the 80 km from Gullfoss www.sterna.is

to Kerlingarfjll, the landscape changes

394 395
 VATNAJKUL SJ G A R U R
N ATIONAL PARK

We are proud to welcome you

Gumundur gmundsson

Gumundur gmundsson
to Vatnajkull National Park!
Vatnajkull National Park is Icelands newest protected area, established in 2008.
With a total area of roughly 13,200 km2 it is by far the largest national park
Svartifoss Dettifoss
in Iceland as well as in Western Europe.

Skarphinn G. risson
Key features of the park are the ice cap of the Vatnajkull Glacier
(8,200 km2) and several highly active volcanic systems within
and outside the ice cap. The interplay of ice and fire is the single
most important force in shaping the nature of the park.
Hiking Geldingafell, Snfell in the distance
As a result, one can find in one place an unparalleled range
of volcanic-, geothermal- and other landscape features.
We offer information at our three visitor centres, Gljfrastofa,
Snfellsstofa and Skaftafelllsstofa. You will also find more
information by visiting our website www.vjp.is

GLJFRASTOFA

Gumundur gmundsson
sa- Hsa- sbyrgi

Regna Hreinsdttir
fjrur vk Hljaklettar Gljfrastofa
Dettifoss
Saur- Akureyri
krkur

Egilsstair Langisjr Morsrdalur

SNFELLSSTOFA

Snfellsnes Askja
Snfell
Kverkfjll
Snfellsstofa

Einar Ragnar Sigursson

Hfn
Ragnar Th. Sigursson

Reykjavk Skaftafell
Keflavk Eldgj Laki Jkulsrln
Airport
Kirkju-
bjar- SKAFTAFELLSSTOFA
klaustur
Askja and Lake skjuvatn

Vk Skaftafellsstofa

PORT hnnun
For more information on Vatnajokull National Park, please visit our website www.vjp.is
Highlands

Ari Plsson
Hljaklettar by Vesturdalur: You can spend several days exploring all the different hiking routes along Jkulsrgljfur in Vatnajkull National Park

Jkulsrgljfur - Vatnajkull National Park

Shaping the landscape from glacier to sea
F or t housa nds of yea rs, Jku ls
Fjllum, one of Icela nd s la rgest
rivers, has continued to f low from under
through a landscape of diverse aspects for
a distance of about 200 km until merging
with the sea in xarfjrur bay. On its
channels into the highland bedrock and,
to the west of Hlsfjll, it cascades from a
tall rocky ledge, forming the huge Dettifoss
the Vatnajkull glacier and wind its way long journey, the river has carved numerous waterfa ll, plunging into magnif icent
canyons which extend all the way down to
the bridge over the river on highway 85. The
canyons (Icelandic: gljfur), which take their
name from the river, Jkulsrgljfur, are

Frank Bradford
approximately 25 km long, half a kilometre
wide and in several locations, they extend to
a depth of over 100 metres.

Awesome beauty Jkulsrgljfur: The river Jkuls has carved a 25 km long canyon and shaped the landscape from the glacier down to sea in xarfjrur bay.
While Icelanders based their living almost
exclusively on agriculture, their primary include sbyrgi in 1978. When Vatnajkull The Park offers numerous other points of pa rk, bet ween Dettifoss a nd sbyrgi
criterion of natural beauty was the suitability National Park was established in 2008, interest, such as the huge rock pillars Karl which takes nearly two days to traverse.
of the land for farming. With the growing Jkulsrgljfur became a part it. The park and Kerling (Old Man and Old Woman) However, many shorter routes can be
diversification of employment and industry, includes all the canyons to the west of and the Selfoss and Rttarfoss waterfalls in selected, radiating out from the park s
improved education and prosperity, people Jkuls. In 1996, the area around Dettifoss, Jkuls. Hlmatungur area is rich in diverse main destinations.
began, to an increasing extent, to find beauty Selfoss and Hafragilsfoss to the east of vegetation. Everywhere stark contrasts meet In summer, the local rangers offer a
in the wilderness with its highlands and Jkuls was declared a national monument. the eye. programme of events where visitors can
mountains, despite their barren and rugged Among renowned pearls of the park, in choose bet ween various wa lk ing tour
appearance. Eventually, areas which were addition to above-mentioned waterfalls are Great hiking trails options. A number of brochures have
thought to surpass others in their unique Vesturdalur, Hljaklettar, Hlmatungur The National Park is ideal for walks and been published describing walking routes
natural characteristics came to be protected. and sbyrgi. All those natural phenomena outdoor recreation, especially for those and those who take an interest in geology
Gunnar Jhannesson

Vatnajkull National Park canyons, gullies, and rock formations who are not in a hurry, since a number and botany can benef it variously from
A Nat iona l Pa rk wa s e st abl i shed of diverse shapes and sizes are primarily of days are needed to learn to enjoy the the study of those.
i n Jk u l s r g lj f u r c a nyon s a nd t he formed by volcanic activit y and huge richness and diverse character of the area.
surrounding area in 1973 and expanded to glacial melt water floods in Jkuls. There is a marked footpath through the

400 401
 FREE
Index

GRAB YOUR
Icelandic Times.................................................................5 Kaffi 59.........................................................................156 lfheimar..................................................................... 284
Starinn..........................................................................24

ISSUE
Fjruhsi Caf.............................................................157 Fljtsdalshra.............................................................287
Atlantic Leather...............................................................25 Narfeyrarstofa...............................................................157 Fjshorni.................................................................... 288
Harpan............................................................................37 Lki Tours.....................................................................160 Htel Hallormstaur..................................................... 288
Vkin Sjminjasafn..........................................................39 Htel Framnes...............................................................161 Vnland Guesthouse..................................................... 289
Listasafn slands.............................................................41 Seatours.......................................................................162 Gistihsi Egilsstair.................................................... 289
Reykjavk Art Gallery.......................................................42 Dalabygg.....................................................................165 Lyngs Gistiheimili ...................................................... 290
jminjasafn slands.....................................................45 Reykhlahreppur...........................................................173 Fjalladr..................................................................... 291
Reykjavik Excursions......................................................55 Htel Bjarkalundur........................................................ 174 hreindraslum....................................................... 292
Laugardalslaug...............................................................57 Eyjasigling..................................................................... 174 Seyisfjrur................................................................ 295 Available in English, French and German
Caf Paris.......................................................................58 Vesturbygg..................................................................177 Htel Aldan.................................................................. 296
Volcano House................................................................59 Htel Ltrabjarg............................................................178 Kaffihsi Eskifiri....................................................... 297
Sgreifinn......................................................................60 EagleFjord.....................................................................178 Eyjlfsstair................................................................. 297
Caf Haiti........................................................................61 Htel Rageri............................................................179 Caf Margrt................................................................ 301
Sushismijan..................................................................61 The Pirate House...........................................................179 Hj Marln..................................................................... 301
Argentna........................................................................62 Hrafnseyri.....................................................................181 Fjarabygg................................................................. 303
rr Frakkar.....................................................................64 Bolungarvk...................................................................183 Mjeyri Gistiheimili...................................................... 304
Galler List.......................................................................65 Savk.........................................................................185 Fjararhtel.................................................................. 305
Krua Thai........................................................................66 Iceland Sea Angling......................................................185 Caf Sumarlna............................................................ 305
Arkart..............................................................................67 Arctic Fox Centre..........................................................186 Saxa Guesthouse......................................................... 306
Kraum.............................................................................68 Claus in Iceland.............................................................187 Petras Stone Museum................................................. 309
Litla Jlabin................................................................69 rneshreppur................................................................188 Breidalshreppur..........................................................311
Sds the Jeweller..........................................................70 Htel Djpavk...............................................................189 Htel Blfell...................................................................312
Gullkistan........................................................................70 Htel Finna....................................................................190 Htel Staarborg...........................................................313
Handprjnasamband.......................................................71 Steinhsi.....................................................................190 Djpavogshreppur.........................................................315
Life of Whales.................................................................72 Strandagaldur...............................................................191 Arfleif..........................................................................317
Reykjavik Bike Tours.......................................................74 Kaldrananeshreppur.....................................................192 Htel Framt................................................................318
Fosshtel........................................................................76 Selasigling....................................................................201 East Iceland Marketing Office.......................................321
The Viking.......................................................................79 Laxasetur slands......................................................... 202 Rki Vatnajkuls........................................................... 329
Skemmtigarurinn..........................................................81 Kaupflag Vestur-Hnvetninga..................................... 202 Hfn Inn Gistiheimili......................................................331
Minilik Restaurant...........................................................82 Selasetur slands......................................................... 203 Humarhfnin................................................................ 332
Fjrukrin.......................................................................85 Gamla Psthsi.......................................................... 204 Kaffi Horni.................................................................. 333
shestar...........................................................................85 Htel Blndus............................................................. 204 Glacier Jeeps............................................................... 335
Hafnarfjararbr............................................................87 Glaheimar................................................................... 205 Jkulsrln.................................................................. 336
Htel Hafnafjrur...........................................................88 Potturinn...................................................................... 206 Freysnes Restaurant & Shop........................................ 337
Bstaur.........................................................................88 Eyvindarstofa............................................................... 206 Iceland Excursions....................................................... 339
Gamla vnhsi...............................................................89 Hotel Hunavellir.............................................................207 Halldrskaffi................................................................ 340
Tra.................................................................................91 Vi rbakkann..............................................................207 Htel Lundi....................................................................341
Hotel Laxnes...................................................................93 Sveitarflagi Skagastrnd.......................................... 209 Byggasafni Skgum................................................. 342
Mosfellsbr....................................................................95 Skagafjrur.................................................................211 Htel Skgar................................................................ 343
Gljfrasteinn...................................................................96 Glaumbr.....................................................................213 East Rangring........................................................... 345
Gallery Front...................................................................97 Hlar.............................................................................215 Stra Mrk III............................................................... 346
Trawire............................................................................97 Htel Tindastll.............................................................216 sland Treasures........................................................... 346
lafoss Wool Store..........................................................98 Htel Varmahl.............................................................217 Gamla Fjsi.................................................................347
Palli the Knife Maker.......................................................99 Lnkot...........................................................................218 Reykjavik Excursions................................................... 349
Mosfellsbakar..............................................................100 Slvk............................................................................218 Gumundur Tyrfingsson................................................351
Handverkshsi............................................................101 Emigration Centre.........................................................219 Htel Selfoss................................................................ 352
Reykjanesbr...............................................................109 Drangeyjarferir........................................................... 220 Byggasafn rnesinga................................................. 352
Reykjanesbr...............................................................110 Icelandic Horse History Centre..................................... 221 Almar Bakery............................................................... 352
Kaffi Duus..................................................................... 111 Fjallabygg................................................................... 223 Klfholt........................................................................ 353
Rin............................................................................... 111 Rauka..........................................................................224 Iceland Excursions....................................................... 355
Htel Berg..................................................................... 112 Hvanneyri .................................................................... 225 Slheimar..................................................................... 357
Htel Keilir.................................................................... 112 Brimnes Htel.............................................................. 226 Iceland Excursions....................................................... 359
Reykjavik Excursions.................................................... 115 Slur Guesthouse......................................................... 229 Gateway to Iceland....................................................... 360
Reykjavik Excursions ................................................... 115 Besti Bitinn.................................................................. 229 Slakki........................................................................... 363
ATV-Adventures............................................................ 117 Eyjafjararsveit............................................................ 230 Gullfoss kaffi................................................................ 364
Caf Bryggjan...............................................................120 Bsar............................................................................231 Minilik Restaurant........................................................ 365
Salty Tours....................................................................120 Akureyrarstofa............................................................. 233 Lindin Restaurant......................................................... 366
Mamma Mia..................................................................121 Norursigling................................................................237 Galler Laugarvatn........................................................ 367
Guesthouse Borg..........................................................122 Lystigarur Akureyrar.................................................. 238 Laugarvatn Adventure.................................................. 367
Stakkavk......................................................................123 Caf Bjrk.................................................................... 239 Reykjavik Excursions................................................... 369
Blue Lagoon..................................................................124 Krua Siam.....................................................................240 Reykjavik Excursions................................................... 369
Vitinn.............................................................................127 Urtasmijan..................................................................241 Fjrubori....................................................................370
Sandgerisbr..............................................................129 Hrsey............................................................................243 Raua Hsi .................................................................371
Iceland Excursions........................................................131 Visit Hrsey....................................................................244 Iceland Activities...........................................................374
Drfinna Torfadttir......................................................139 Gistihsi Hrafninn........................................................245 Adrenalngarurinn.......................................................375
Gamla Kaupflagi........................................................139 Hsabakki.....................................................................245
Acc
Viking Tours................................................................. 377
Akraneskaupstaur.......................................................141 Plar Hestar..................................................................246 Vestmannaeyjabr.......................................................379
Markasstofa Vesturlands............................................143
om
Sport Tours...................................................................247 Mountainguides........................................................... 389
Borgarnes B&B.............................................................144 Fosshll Tourist info......................................................248 Kerlingarfjll.................................................................391
Ensku hsin..................................................................144
The Settlement Centre..................................................145
Mvatnsstofa................................................................251 Fjallabak ................................................................... 393
mo ties
datio i
Mvatnsstofa............................................................... 254 Sterna.......................................................................... 395
Steindrsstair.............................................................146 Mvatn Tours............................................................... 255

Activ
n Ar
Nes in Reykholtsdal......................................................146

Alkemia Tours.............................................................. 256
Gamli brinn Hsafelli..................................................147 Htel Reynihl............................................................. 259

t Culture rant s
Museums Restau
Hafell Geitab.............................................................147 Hvalasafni.................................................................. 262
Snorrastofa...................................................................149 rbl............................................................................ 263
Munaarnes..................................................................150 Gentle Giants............................................................... 264
Htel Bifrst..................................................................151 Langanesbygg............................................................ 267
Reykjavik Excursions....................................................153 Ytra Ln....................................................................... 268
Kast Guesthouse .........................................................154 Sreksstair...................................................................279
Langaholt......................................................................155 Vopnafjararhreppur.....................................................281
Available in hotels, restaurants and tourist centres www.icelandictimes.com
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