Lonely Planet Publications

Contents
Introducing Budapest 5
City Life 7
Arts & Architecture 17
Food & Drink 25
History 33

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Sights 49
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Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 2006

Photographs Richard Nebesky and as listed
Shopping 141
(p203) 2006

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Index 206
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 Lonely Planet Publications

The Author
Steve Fallon once told me, You only live twice (or did he
say thrice?). Sinuous curves, asymmetrical
Steve made his first
visit to Budapest dur- forms and other bizarre shapes now under
ing the early 1980s my belt, I can think about the really import-
with three things on ant things a slice of something sweet at
his to do list: (1) Lukcs coffee house (p126), or a sundowner
visit a thermal spa; at one of the terrace caf-bars on Liszt Ferenc
(2) drink masses of tr (p123). Dinner will be at the Mzeum
Tokaj wine; and (3) (p117) next to the National Museum, still
buy some fruit for my favourite upmarket Hungarian eatery
his friends in Poland after all these years (1885 the restaurant,
whose children, born of course to be precise) and the rest of the
under the neofascist regime of General evening hopefully debauched at one of the
Wojciech Jaruzelski, had never seen (much kertek (p129) the gardens (or any outdoor
less tasted) such exotics as bananas. Having venues) that open at night in the warmer
accomplished all three, he visited Budapest months.
again and again, moving there in 1992, where
he learned to love the Hungarian language,
plinka more than Tokaj and very hot ther- PHOTOGRAPHER
mal water not necessarily in that order. Now
based in London, Steve returns to Budapest
Richard Nebesky
Born one snowy night in the grungy Prague
regularly for a fix of all three. He has worked suburb of Zizkov one of the worlds most
on every edition of Budapest and Hungary. photogenic cities it was not long after Rich-
ard got out of his cot that his father, an avid
photo enthusiast, gave him his first point-
STEVES TOP BUDAPEST DAY and-shoot unit. Ever since, the camera was
Lets just say for the sake of argument that by his side on wander treks, ski adventures,
I wake up late on my last day in Budapest, cycling trips and while researching Lonely
work accomplished and conscience (if not Planet books around the globe. He has also
head) clear. I skip breakfast and head for worked for various magazines and travel
the Gellrt Baths (p136). After a therapeutic guide book publishers, and had plenty of
soak and a 15-minute tussle with a moun- social photography projects.
tainous masseur, I hobble across Independ- Photographing Budapest in winter, with
ence Bridge (p57), glancing up behind me at regular drizzle and grey skies, was a chal-
my best girlfriend, Lady Liberty (p57) hold- lenge. Just as well that this imperial city of
ing a palm frond above her head atop Gellrt the former Hungarian empire is full of such
Hill, and jump on tram 2, which runs along wonderfully photogenic structures.
the river to jliptvros, Budapests Upper
East Side. Theres no better place in town
than the Mri Kisvendgl (p114) for some
post-party Hungarian soul food. From here LONELY PLANET AUTHORS
its just a hop, skip and a jump to Margaret Why is our travel information the best in the world? Its
Island (p62). I may stroll, I may cycle, I may simple: our authors are independent, dedicated travellers.
kip in the sun, but Im sticking to the beaten They dont research using just the Internet or phone, and
track, thank you very much in this city of they dont take freebies in exchange for positive coverage.
They travel widely, to all the popular spots and off the
passion and pricey real estate, lovers seize
beaten track. They personally visit thousands of hotels,
every opportunity and, frankly, any bush will restaurants, cafs, bars, galleries, palaces, museums and
do. Afterwards, I need a fix of Art Nouveau/ more and they take pride in getting all the details right,
Secessionist architecture and the No 1 metro and telling it how it is. For more, see the authors section on
(the little underground) beckons. Its dorky www.lonelyplanet.com.
being a trainspotter but, as the Dalai Lama
4
 Lonely Planet Publications

Introducing Budapest
More cosmopolitan than Prague, more romantic
than Warsaw and more beautiful than both, Buda-
pest straddles a gentle curve in the Danube, with
the Buda Hills to the west and what is essentially
the start of the Great Plain to the east. With parks
brimming with attractions, museums filled with
treasures, pleasure boats sailing up and down the
scenic Danube Bend, Turkish-era thermal baths
belching steam and a nightlife throbbing until
dawn most nights, the Hungarian capital is one of
the Continents most delightful and fun cities.
And the human legacy is just as remarkable as Mother Natures. Architecturally, Budapest
is a gem, with a wealth of baroque, neoclassical, Eclectic and Art Nouveau (or Secession-
ist) buildings. Overall it has a fin-de-sicle feel to it, for it was then, during the industrial
boom and the capitals golden age in the
late 19th century, that most of what you see
today was built. In some places, particularly POLAND
along the Nagykrt (Big Ring Road) and up CZECH
REPUBLIC
broad Andrssy t to the sprawling Vros-
liget (City Park), Budapests sobriquet the SLOVAKIA
UKRAINE
Paris of Central Europe is well deserved.
Nearly every building has some interesting AUSTRIA HUNGARY
detail, from Art Nouveau glazed tiles and
neoclassical bas-reliefs to bullet holes and BUDAPEST
shrapnel scorings left from WWII and the ROMANIA
1956 Uprising. SLOVENIA
At times, Budapests scars are not very CROATIA
well hidden. Over the years, industrial and
automobile pollution has exacerbated the BOSNIA-
decay, but in recent years the rebuilding HERZEGOVINA
SERBIA &
and renovations have been nothing short Adriatic
MONTENEGRO
Sea
of astonishing. Indeed, some people think
5
 Lonely Planet Publications
the city is tidying itself up a bit too quickly.
www.lonelyplanet.com

When I first moved to the city in the early LOWDOWN

1990s, a stylish local guidebook advised po-
tential visitors to hurry up and come before Population 1.75 million
Budapest turns into just another capital of Percentage of Hungarys population living in
just another nice social-democratic Euro- Budapest 18%
pean country (or words to that effect). As
if, I remember thinking in those Wild East Time zone Central European Time (GMT + one hour)
days of rapid-fire change and disillusion- Three-star double 12,500Ft to 25,000Ft (50 to 102)
ment. Yeah, as if... Coffee in a caf 200Ft to 380 Ft
Its true that in the process of reclaiming
Bus/metro ticket 170Ft
its well-deserved title of vilgvros (world-
class city) over the past decade, Budapest has Metro stations 40 on three lines
taken on all the baggage that such a process Budapests ranking in terms of size among EU
usually involves: faceless modern architec- cities sixth (London, Berlin, Madrid, Rome and Paris
ture, organised criminal activity, a mobile come first)
phone at the ear of every suit, an inter-
Percentage of Hungarian women who would
national fast-food outlet on every corner. Yet
forgive infidelity 66% (rest of Europe: 54%)
Budapest remains and will always stay
Hungarian: exotic, sometimes inscrutable, Suicide rate 60.1 per 100,000 people (UK 15.1,
often passionate, with its feet firmly planted USA 21.7)
in Europe but with a glance every now and No-no Clinking glasses when drinking beer (it is
then eastward to the spawning grounds of said thats what the Habsburgs did after executing
its people. the Martyrs of Arad in 1849)
Budapest is fabulous, romantic and excit-
ing at any time, but especially so just after
dusk in spring and summer when Castle
Hill is bathed in a warm yellow light. Stroll along the Duna korz, the riverside embank-
ment on the Pest side, or across any of the bridges past young couples embracing passion-
ately. Its then that youll feel the romance of a place that, despite all attempts from both
within and without to destroy it, has never died.

6
 Lonely Planet Publications

City Life

Budapest Today 8
City Calendar 8
Culture 10
Identity 10
Lifestyle 11
Fashion 13
Sport 13
Media 13
Language 14
Economy & Costs 15
6
Government & Politics 16
 JANUARY BRIDGE FESTIVAL
City Life NEW YEARS DAY CONCERT
www.hungariakoncert.hu
www.festivalcity.hu
Also known as the Budapest Fair, this day-
long festival of music, dance and street
This is an annual event usually held in Pesti theatre is held on the citys bridges and by
Vigad on 1 January to herald in the new the river.

City Life
BUDAPEST TODAY
How fares Budapest as the capital of one of the 10 accession countries that joined the EU
year.
FERENCVROS SUMMER FESTIVAL
INTERNATIONAL CIRCUS FESTIVAL www.festivalcity.hu
in 2004? Many people here will tell you that the question is irrelevant, that Hungary and
its capital have not seen any changes at all. In some regards, that is true Budapest today www.maciva.hu Local groups perform music and dance in

CITY CALENDAR
is what Budapest was yesterday and what Budapest will be tomorrow. In many other ways, This biennial (2008, 2010 etc) event is held the streets of Budapests district IX from
the city has changed dramatically. under the big top of the Municipal Great mid-June to mid-July.
Unemployment and inflation are down, real income and tourism figures are up (OK, Circus in late January.
the most visible new arrivals are British lager louts with big mouths and thirsts but they BUDAPEST FAIR
spend money). Fapados (wooden bench
ie budget) airlines like SkyEurope, EasyJet FEBRUARY www.festivalcity.hu
Citywide Budapesti Bcs of concerts and
and Wizzair have landed in Budapest and OPERA BALL
are now winging Mr and Mrs Kovcs
HOT CONVERSATION TOPICS www.operabal.com
street theatre marking the departure of
Soviet troops from Hungarian soil in 1991.
and their 1.3 kids to Corsica for a 10-day Gyurcsny vs Orbn Socialist schoolmaster or This very prestigious event is held annually
holiday. Budapest is being redeveloped arrogant neo-con? at the Hungarian State Opera House.
Kertek Who is charging the most extortionate MUSEUM NIGHT
putting on a very bright new face in some
parts and property prices are booming. rent for this years hottest (or, rather, coolest) www.museum.hu/events
The once canyonlike gap between Hungary gardens? MARCH Two dozen museums across town throw
open their doors at 6pm and dont close to
and wealthy Western European nations is M4 Is the last metro line just a figment of the BUDAPEST SPRING FESTIVAL
rapidly closing, and people in Budapest are collective imagination? the very wee hours.
www.festivalcity.hu
spending more money than ever on home- Property prices Who is buying up Budapest this The capitals largest (200 events at 60
entertainment centres, mobile phones, trav- month? The Spanish? The Irish?
elling and even food. The world is one big Reality shows How far will the likes of the
venues) and most important cultural festi-
val takes place at venues throughout the
AUGUST
oyster and all that is missing is the cocktail humiliating, the sadistic Benne leszek a city.
FORMULA ONE HUNGARIAN
sauce, right? tvben! (Im Gonna Be on TV!) and the trashy GRAND PRIX
Wrong. And why? Because Hungarians Val Vilny (Real World) go? www.hungaroring.hu
are still not happy. They were not happy
under socialism they were the ones who
Road works Wont Budapest look great when
its finished?
APRIL Hungarys prime sporting event held in
NATIONAL DANCE HOUSE MEETING Mogyord, 24km northeast of the capital.
electrified the barbed-wire fence separat- Travel Thailand for the beach or Kenya for the
ing themselves from Austria in the first wildlife? Decisions, decisions & FAIR
place and they werent happy four years www.tanchaz.hu
later when a poll taken in mid-1993 found Hungarys biggest tnchz (p131) is held
that a full 76% of them were very disappointed with capitalism and their living stand- over two days at the Budapest Sportarna.
ard. A full dozen years, at least one car, a couple of foreign trips and a fair few more hot
meals later, a survey carried out by the public-policy think tank DEMOS Magyarorszg
has found that the vast majority of Hungarians remain elgedetlen something like not MAY
enoughed but meaning dissatisfied or disgruntled as ever. Only 36% the lowest BUDAPEST EARLY MUSIC FORUM
in the EU and less than half the EU average of 73% said they were satisfied with their www.festivalcity.hu
quality of life. A festival focusing on ancient music
Enough is enough already, will the Magyar ever be happy? Probably not if history repeats classical music as it was played when first THIS IMAGE
itself; we know this all too well from their art, their music, their honfib (p11), and that composed at the Ferenc Liszt Music Acad- NOT AVAILABLE
disgruntledness goes back centuries. But why? Well, anyone who has lived here for any
length of time knows that its part of the social fabric, its in the blood.
emy and at churches around Budapest. IN PICK & MIX
JUNE
CITY CALENDAR
Every season has its attractions and its limitations in Budapest. For details see p186.
DANUBE FOLKLORE CARNIVAL
www.dunaart.hu
Countless festivals and events are held in and around Budapest each year. The following A pan-Hungarian international 10-day
abbreviated list gives you a taste of what to expect, but get hold of the HNTOs annual carnival of folk and world music and mod-
brochure Events Calendar for a complete listing. To ensure that your trip does not coincide ern dance, held in Vrsmarty tr and on
with a public holiday, when most everything will be shut up tight, see p189. Margaret Island.
8 9
 SZIGET MUSIC FESTIVAL founded in 1635 and moved to Budapest in 1777 from what is now Trnava (Hungarian:
www.sziget.hu TOP FIVE UNUSUAL EVENTS Nagyszombat) in Slovakia; the 200-year-old Semmelweis University of Medicine (SOTE;
Now one of the biggest and most popular www.sote.hu); the Budapest Technical and Economic Sciences University (BME; www
Budapest Fair (June) .bme.hu), established in 1782; and the Budapest University of Economic Sciences (known
music festivals in Europe, held on Buda-
International Circus Festival (January) as Kzgz; www.bke.hu). Budapest-based and English-language Central European Uni-
pests Hajgyr Island. The island becomes
Museum Night (June) versity (CEU; www.ceu.hu), founded in 1991 by philanthropist George Soros, has gained
a festival city complete with camping and
City Life

City Life
National Dance House Meeting & Fair (April) an international reputation in just over a decade.
service facilities.
Sziget Music Festival (August) Throughout history, religion has often been a question of expediency here. Under King
CRAFTS CELEBRATION Stephen I, Catholicism won the battle for dominance over Orthodoxy and, while the ma-
jority of Hungarians were quite happily Protestant by the end of the 16th century, many
www.nesz.hu
OCTOBER
CULTURE

CULTURE
donned a new mantle during the Catholic Counter-Reformation under the Habsburgs.
Prominent craftspeople from around Hun-
During the Turkish occupation in the 16th and 17th centuries, thousands of Hungarians
gary set up kiosks and hold workshops in BUDAPEST INTERNATIONAL
converted to Islam though not always willingly.
the Castle District over a three-day period. MARATHON As a result, Hungarians tend to have a more pragmatic approach to religion than most
Theres also folk dancing and music. www.budapestmarathon.com of their neighbours, and little of the bigotry. It has even been suggested that this generally
Eastern Europes most celebrated foot race sceptical view of matters of faith has led to Hungarians high rate of success in science and
JEWISH SUMMER FESTIVAL goes along the Danube, across its bridges, mathematics (p12). Youll never see Christian churches in Budapest full, even on important
www.jewishfestival.hu through Margaret Island to City Park. holy days. The Jewish community in Budapest, on the other hand, has seen a great revitalis-
Showcases Jewish culture through exhibi- ation in recent years though mostly due to the influx of Orthodox Jews.
tions, gastronomy and a book and film BUDAPEST AUTUMN FESTIVAL Of those Hungarians declaring religious affiliation in the 2001 census, about 52% said
week. www.festivalcity.hu, http://bof.hu they were Roman Catholic, 16% Reformed (Calvinist) Protestant and nearly 3% Evangelical
Cultural events at venues throughout the (Lutheran) Protestant. There are also small Greek Catholic (2.5%) and Orthodox and other
city until early November. Christian (1%) congregations. Hungarys Jews (though not always religious) number about
SEPTEMBER 80,000, down from a prewar population of nearly 10 times that through wartime executions,
BUDAPEST INTERNATIONAL WINE deportations and emigration, with almost 90% living in Budapest.
FAIR DECEMBER
www.winefestival.hu NEW YEARS GALA & BALL
Hungarys foremost winemakers introduce www.viparts.hu LIFESTYLE
their wines to festival goers in the Castle Gala dinner and ball held at the Hungarian In general Hungarians and people from Budapest in particular are not uninhibited like
District. Childrens activities available. State Opera House on 31 December. the extroverted Romanians or sentimental Slavs who laugh or cry at the drop of a hat (or
drink). They are reserved, somewhat formal people. Forget the impassioned, devil-may-
care, Gypsy-fiddling stereotype it doesnt exist and probably never did. The national
anthem calls Hungarians a people torn by fate and the overall mood is one of honfib
CULTURE (literally patriotic sorrow, but really a penchant for the blues with a sufficient amount of
hope to keep most people going).
IDENTITY This mood certainly predates what Hun-
With some 1.75 million inhabitants, Budapest is home to almost a fifth of the national garians call az tkos 40 v (the accursed 40
population. The overwhelming majority are Magyars, an Asiatic people of obscure origins years) of communism. To illustrate what A DUBIOUS DISTINCTION
who do not speak an Indo-European language and make up the vast majority of Hungarys she saw as the dark streak in the Hungar- Hungary has one of the worlds highest suicide
10.083 million people. The population density of Budapest is 3333 people per sq km against ian temperament, the late US foreign cor- rates 60.1 per 100,000 people in 2001, surpassed
a national average of 109 per sq km. respondent Flora Lewis recounted a story only by Russia and several other former Soviet re-
No exact breakdown exists, but the ethnic make-up in the capital reflects the national in Europe: A Tapestry of Nations that was publics. Psychologists are still out to lunch as to why
one. According to the 2001 census just over 92% of the population is ethnically Magyar. the talk of Europe in the early 1930s. It was Hungary should have such a high incidence. Some
Minorities include Germans (2.6%), Serbs and other South Slavs (2%), Slovaks (0.8%) and said, she wrote, that a song called Gloomy say that Hungarians inclination to gloom leads to
Romanians (0.7%). The number of Roma is officially put at 1.9% of the population (or Sunday so deeply moved otherwise normal an ultimate act of despair (above). Others link it to
193,800 people), though in some sources the figure is twice as high. people [in Budapest] that whenever it was a phenomenon not uncommon here in the late 19th
Life expectancy is very low by European standards: just over 68 years for men and al- played, they would rush to commit suicide century as the Hungarian aristocracy withered
most 77 for women. The nation also has one of Europes lowest rates of natural population by jumping off a Danube bridge. The song away, the kisnemessg (minor nobility), some of
increase 9.76 per 1000 people, with a population growth of -0.26%. Sadly, it also has one has been covered in English by many artists, whom were no better off than the local peasants,
of the highest rates of suicide (see boxed text, opposite). Currently 57% of all Hungarian including Billie Holiday, Sinad OConnor would do themselves in to save their name and hon-
marriages end in divorce. and Bjrk, and is the subject of German our. As a result, suicide was and is not looked
Hungary is a highly cultured and educated society with a literacy rate of over 99% among film director Rolf Schbels eponymous ro- upon dishonourably as such, victims may be buried
those 15 years and over. School is compulsory for 10 years until the age of 16. About 65% mantic drama (p24). in hallowed ground and the euphemistic sentence
of the population have completed secondary-school and 10% are university graduates, a Hungarians are almost always extremely used in the newspaper obituaries is: Jnos Kdr/
quarter of which are in engineering and economics. polite in social interaction, and the language Erzsbet Szab died suddenly and tragically. About
There are currently 19 universities and the most prestigious ones are largely based in can be very courtly even when doing busi- 60% of suicides are by hanging.
Budapest, including the Lornd Etvs Science University (ELTE; www.elte.hu), which was ness with the butcher or having your hair
10 11
 cut. The standard greeting for a man to a vizsla or the giant white komondor sheepdog) and people of all ages go gaga over a par-
woman (or youngsters to their elders, regard- HEAD OF THE CLASS ticularly friendly or attractive one.
less of the sex) is Cskolom (I kiss it it Hungarians let down their hair in warm weather, and youll see more public displays
being the hand, of course). People of all Hungarys contributions to specialised education and of affection on the streets than perhaps anywhere else in the world. Its all very romantic,
ages even close friends shake hands pro- the sciences have been far greater than its present but beware: in the remoter corners of Budapests parks and on Margaret Island you may
fusely when meeting up. size and population would suggest. A unique method stumble upon more passionate displays.
City Life

City Life
But while all this gentility certainly oils of music education devised by the composer Zoltn
the wheels that turn a sometimes difficult Kodly (18821967) is widespread and the Pet
society, it can be used to keep outsiders Institute in Budapest has a very high success rate in
teaching children with cerebral palsy to walk. Albert
FASHION
(foreigners and other Hungarians) at a dis- In general, dress is very casual in Budapest in summer, daringly brief, even by Continen-
Szent-Gyrgyi (18931986) won the Nobel Prize for
CULTURE

CULTURE
tance. Perhaps as an extension of this desire tal European standards and many people attend even the opera in denim. Men neednt
to keep everything running as smoothly as Medicine or Physiology in 1937 for his discovery of bother bringing a necktie; it will be seldom if ever used.
possible, Hungarians are always extremely vitamin C; Georg von Bksy (18991972) won the Like everywhere, Budapest has its own fashion boutiques and home-grown designers.
helpful in an emergency be it an accident, same prize in 1961 for his research on the inner ear; Keep an eye open for funky pieces from local talent Anik Nmeth, high-fashion ready-
a pick-pocketing or simply helping some- and Eugene Paul Wigner (190295) received a Nobel to-wear and accessories from Paris-trained Tams Nray, and Art Decoinspired, very
one whos lost their way. Prize in 1963 for his research in nuclear physics. geometric designs from wunderkind Katti Zob, whose spring/summer 2005 collection was
Like Spaniards, Poles and many other showcased in the Magyar Magic Hungary in Focus road show in the UK.
people with a Catholic background, Hun- Judging from whats on offer in some of the used or second-generation clothing shops
garians celebrate nvnap (name days) rather than (or as well as) birthdays. Name days such as Iguana (p149) and Cinkli (p148), the ber-trend on the street is for retro (1950s
are usually the Catholic feast day of their patron saint, but less holy names have a date to 70s) and fetishist (leather, military) foundation pieces and accessories. What the masses
too. Most calendars in Hungary list them, and its traditional for men to give women are going for is another matter. The high-street favourite (and very ordinary) Brussels-
colleagues, classmates and neighbours as well as spouses and family members at least based C&A has launched three new stores in Budapest and Spanish fashion chain Zara,
a single blossom. much beloved by the braces-and-bubblegum brigade, has opened a 2400-sq-metre outlet
The gay and (less so) lesbian communities are quite active in Budapest but keep a on V Vci utca.
relatively low profile compared with Western European capitals. Both groups can enter
into domestic partnerships in Hungary, but such arrangements carry very few legal
rights. The government is considering introducing partnership legislation similar to SPORT
that of the UK. Hungarians enjoy attending sporting matches and watching them on TV as much as they
By and large Hungarians tend to meet their friends and entertain outside at cafs and do participating (p138). The most popular spectator sports (p139) are football and water
restaurants. If you are invited to a Hungarian home, bring a bunch of flowers (available in polo, though motor racing, horse racing both trotting and flat racing and even sakk
profusion all year and very inexpensive) or a bottle of good local wine (see p30). You can (competitive chess) have their fans.
talk about anything under the sun from religion and politics to whether the Hungarian Football is far and away the nations favourite sport, and people still talk about the match
language really is more difficult than Japan- of the century at Wembley in 1953 when the Magic Magyars beat England six goals to
ese and Arabic but money is a touchy three the first time England lost a home match. There are a dozen premier league football
subject. Traditionally, the discussion of teams in Hungary, with four of them based in the capital (p140), including the ever-popular
WHERE THE FIRST COMES LAST wealth or even wearing flashy jewellery Ferencvros.
Following a practice unknown outside Asia, Hungar- and clothing was considered to be gauche In water polo, Hungary has dominated
ians reverse their names in all uses, and their last in Hungary. Do not expect (or ask for) a the European Championships (12 times)
name (or surname) always comes first. For example, tour of the house or apartment; that is just and Olympic Games (eight times) for dec-
John Smith is never Jnos Kovcs to Hungarians but not done here. ades so its worthwhile catching a profes-
Kovcs Jnos, while Elizabeth Taylor is Szab Erzsbet Although its almost impossible to cal- sional or amateur match of this exciting
and Francis Flour is Liszt Ferenc. culate (with the black economy being so seven-a-side sport (if for no other reason
Most titles also follow the structure: Mr John widespread and important), the average than to watch a bunch of guys in skimpy
Smith is Kovcs Jnos r. Many women follow the monthly salary in Hungary at the time of bathing suits horsing around). For details
practice of taking their husbands full name. If Eliza- writing was 146,000/94,000Ft gross/net (or see p140.
beth were married to John, she might be Kovcs
Jnosn (Mrs John Smith) or, increasingly popular
599/386). The minimum wage is currently
set at 57,000Ft (224) per month but it will
The Formula 1 Hungarian Grand Prix
(p9), the sporting event of the year, takes
THIS IMAGE
with professional women, Kovcsn Szab Erzsbet. be raised to between 63,000Ft (248) and place near Budapest in August. NOT AVAILABLE
To avoid confusion, all Hungarian names in this 77,000Ft (303), depending on educational IN PICK & MIX
guide are written in the usual Western manner achievement.
Christian name first including the names of mu- Hungarians as a whole are extremely fond MEDIA
seums, theatres etc if they are translated into English. of animals and Budapest has scores of llat- As in most European capitals, printed news
Budapests Arany Jnos Sznhz is the Jnos Arany dszhal bolt, pet shops selling everything has strong political affiliations in Budapest.
Theatre in English. Addresses are always written in from puppies and hamsters to tropical fish. Almost all the major broadsheets have left
Hungarian as they appear on street signs: Kossuth Budapesters are especially fond of dogs (you or centre-left leanings, with the exception
Lajos utca, Rkczi Ferenc tr etc. cant miss breeds indigenous to Hungary of the conservative Magyar Nemzet (Hun-
the moplike puli herding dog, the sleek garian Nation).
12 13
 The most respected publications are the of the Internet and the frequency of travel, most young people now have at least a smat-
TOP FIVE MEDIA WEBSITES weekly news magazine Heti Vilggazdasg tering of English while older people speak German. If you are desperate to make yourself
(World Economy Weekly), known as HVG, understood in English, look for someone under the age of 25.
Budapest Week Online (www.budapestweek and the former Communist Party mouth- For obvious reasons, Russian is best avoided; there seems to be almost a national paranoia
.com) Especially good for arts and entertainment. piece Npszabadsg (Peoples Freedom), the about speaking it, and many people revel in how little they know despite all those years
Budapest Sun Online (www.budapestsun.com) daily broadsheet that is now completely in- in class. Italian is understood more and more in Hungary because of tourism. French and
City Life

City Life
Similar to Budapest Week Online but stronger on dependent and has the highest paid circula- Spanish are virtually useless.
local news, interviews and features. tion (198,000) of any newspaper. Hard on
Hungarian Quarterly (www.hungarianquarterly its heels is the Swiss-owned Blikk, a brash
.com) Excerpts from the countrys most scholarly
journal in English.
tabloid that focuses on sport, stars and
ECONOMY & COSTS
CULTURE

ECONOMY & COSTS

sex not necessarily in that order. Specialist
MTI (www.mti.hu) The government-funded publications include the weekly intellectual Two years after joining the EU, Hungary looks set to miss its target of abandoning the forint
Hungarian News Agency is an excellent source for let s Irodalom (Life and Literature), the for the euro by 2010 as the government puts the upgrading of the countrys highways and
up-to-date news and opinion. satirical biweekly Hcip (Snowshoe) and hospitals ahead of economic targets set by Brussels.
Pestiside (www.pestiside.hu) A positive favourite the mass-circulation Nemzeti Sport (Na- Prime Minister Ferenc Gyurcsny, who was re-elected in April 2006, bolstered his popu-
and useful in all respects, this website will have tional Sport). larity by cutting taxes, increasing child support subsidies and pensions, and trying to bring
you culturally and politically fluent in Budapest- For information on Budapests English- the nations as well as the citys overworked roads into the 21st century. All this spending by
speak before you even arrive. language print media see p191. the government more than 810,000 Hun-
With the sale of the state-owned TV2, garians, or 29% of the 2.8 million workforce
are state employees meant that Hungary
Magyar Televzi (MTV) controls only one
was being run on borrowed money. The HOW MUCH?
channel (MTV-1), though there is a public terrestrial channel (M2) and a public satellite
one (Duna TV), a second private terrestrial channel (RTL Klub) and some 20 private cable country would have to cut its budget deficit Litre of petrol 265Ft to 273Ft
and satellite channels nationwide, broadcasting everything from game and talk shows to in half to less than 3% of gross domestic
Litre of bottled water 150Ft
classic Hungarian films. Most midrange and top-end hotels and pensions in Budapest have product to be eligible to adopt the euro
as its currency. It would also have to slow Kors (0.5L) of Dreher beer in pub/caf 350Ft to
satellite TV, though mainly in German. 600Ft
The public Magyar Rdi (MR; Hungarian Radio) has three stations. They are named down inflation, cut government debt, lower
after Lajos Kossuth (jazz and news; 98.6AM), the most popular station in the country; interest rates and keep the currency stable, Souvenir T-shirt 1500Ft
Sndor Petfi (1960s to 1980s music, news and sport; 94.8FM); and Bla Bartk (classical according to EU rules.
Street snack (kolbsz sausage) 250 FT
music and news; 105.3FM). Radio Budapest (www.english.radio.hu), the external arm of Hungarys economy grew about 4.1% in
2005, the second-slowest rate after Poland Cheap/good bottle of wine (75cL) in supermarket
Hungarian Radio, broadcasts in English on 88.1FM and 91.9FM. 600/2000Ft
Juventus (89.5FM), a popular music station for youngsters, claims the second-highest among the eight Eastern European states
audience in the country. Rdi 88 (95.4FM) plays the top music of the 1980s and 90s that joined the EU in 2004. Still, the coun- Bed in private room from 4500Ft
just what students want. Danubius Rdi (98.3 and 103.3FM) is a mix of popular music trys expansion outpaces growth rates in Cup of coffee in caf 200Ft to 380 Ft
and news. Western Europe as the Hungarian economy
benefits from such exports as automobile Local English-language newspaper 395Ft to 590Ft
engines made by Volkswagen AGs Audi Dinner for two (with wine) at a good restaurant
LANGUAGE unit and medicines made by Gedeon Rich-
ter Rt.
15,000Ft
The Hungarians like to boast that their lan-
guage ranks with Japanese and Arabic as The country has attracted about $47 bil-
among the worlds most difficult tongues to
QUIRKY LANGUAGE lion of the $192 billion foreign direct investment that flowed into the four biggest Eastern
learn. All languages are hard for non-native Hungarian is full of what the French called faux European economies since 1989, which is the highest per-capita level in postcommunist
speakers to master, but it is true: Hungarian amis false friends or misleading homophones that countries. Companies from places like South Korea are setting up shop in Hungary, which
is a bitch to learn to speak well. This should have the same sound but totally different meanings. is set on becoming a world power in manufacturing consumer electronics.
not put you off attempting a few words and Thus in Hungarian test is not a quiz but body, fog Foreign companies pick Hungary for their factories because the workforce is considered
phrases, however. is tooth, comb is thigh and part is shore. Fatl flexible, skilled, highly educated and relatively inexpensive. Wages in Budapest are about
For assorted reasons the compulsory admittedly with an accent just means wooden plate 25% higher than the national average. The unemployment rate in the capital are around
study of Russian in all schools until the and is a popular Budapest restaurant, and Apthy is 3%, compared with 7.6% nationwide.
late 1980s being one of them Hungarians a less-than-enthusiastic family name. Ifjsg, pro- Budapest is no longer the bargain-basement destination for foreign travellers that it
are not polyglots and even when they do nounced (very roughly) if you shag, means youth; was even five years ago, but it is still cheaper by a third or even a half than most Western
have a smattering of a foreign language, sajt (pronounced somewhat like shite), as in every European countries. If you stay in private rooms, eat at medium-priced restaurants and
they lack experience and are generally visiting Britons favourite sajtburger, means cheese. travel on public transport, you should get by on 40 a day.
hesitant to speak it. Attempt a few words Travelling in more style and comfort restaurant splurges with bottles of wine, a fairly
in magyarul (Hungarian), and they will be active nightlife, small hotels/guesthouses with character will cost about twice as much.
impressed, take it as a compliment and be extremely encouraging. Those putting up at hostels or college dormitories, eating burek street food for lunch and
The best foreign language for getting around with here was always German; historical at self-service restaurants for dinner could squeak by for as low as 25 a day.
ties, geographical proximity and the fact that it was the preferred language of the literati For price ranges of accommodation in Budapest see p153 and for the average cost of
until almost the 20th century have given it almost semi-official status. But with the advent restaurant meals see p92.
14 15
 Lonely Planet Publications

GOVERNMENT & POLITICS

National Government
Hungarys 1989 constitution provides for a parliamentary system of government. The uni-
cameral assembly sits in the Parliament building and consists of 386 members (36 women
City Life

at present, four of whom held ministerial portfolios within the government) chosen for
four years in a complex, two-round system that balances direct (first past the post) and
proportional representation. Of the total, 176 MPs enter Parliament by individual constitu-
ency elections, 152 on the basis of 20 district lists and 58 on the basis of national lists. The
prime minister is head of government. The head of state, the president, is elected by the
GOVERNMENT & POLITICS

house for five years.

For a party to win mandates in Parliament, it should obtain at least 5% of valid votes
cast on regional party lists. In the most recent election (April 2006), only four parties were
seated in the National Assembly: the ruling socialist MSZP (Hungarian Socialist Party)
in coalition with the liberal SZDSZ (Alliance of Free Democrats) with 210 seats and the
centre-rightist Fidesz-MPP (Alliance of Young Democrats-Hungarian Civic Party) together
with the conservative MDF (Hungarian Democratic Forum) making up the opposition (176
seats). Other parties are the agrarian conservative FKgP (Independent Smallholders Party)
and the xenophobic and ultranationalist MIP (Hungarian Justice and Life Party).

Local Government
Budapest is governed by a fvrosi nkormnzat (municipal council), whose 66 members
are elected to four-year terms and whose leader is the fpolgrmester (lord mayor). The
current mayor, SZDSZ liberal Gbor Demszky, handily won his fourth term in office in
October 2002 after his party and its coalition partners, the MSZP socialists, received almost
60% of the popular vote. The next elections are due in October 2006.

Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - Do the right thing with our content.
16 17
 Lonely Planet Publications

Arts &
Architecture

Music & Dance 18

Architecture 19
Painting & Sculpture 21
Literature 21
16
Cinema 23
 Budapest to Boston is urban schmaltz and based on recruiting tunes called verbunkos, played
Arts & Architecture during the Rkczi independence wars. At least two fiddles, a bass and a cymbalom (a curious
stringed instrument played with sticks) are de rigueur.
To confuse matters, real Roma as opposed to Gypsy music traditionally does not
use instruments but is sung a cappella (though sometimes it is backed with percussion and
even guitar). Two of the best-known modern Roma groups are Kalyi Jag (Black Fire), from

Arts & Architecture

The arts in Budapest have been both starved and nourished by the pivotal events in the northeastern Hungary and led by Gusztav Vrga, and Romano Drom.
nations history. King Stephens conversion to Catholicism brought Romanesque and Gothic Hungarian folk musicians play violins, zithers, hurdy-gurdies, bagpipes and lutes on a
art and architecture, while the Turkish occupation nipped most of Budapests Renaissance in five-tone diatonic scale. There are lots of different performers, but watch out for Muzsiks
the bud. The Habsburgs opened the doors to baroque influences. The arts thrived under the (with the inimitable Marta Sebestyn or on her own); Ghymes, a Hungarian folk band
Dual Monarchy, through truncation and even under fascism. The early days of commun- from Slovakia; the Hungarian group Vujicsics, which mixes elements of South Slav music;
ism brought socialist-realist art celebrating wheat sheaves and muscle-bound steelworkers and the energetic fiddler Flix Lajkoa from the Magyar-speaking area of northern Serbia.
to a less-than-impressed populace, but much money was spent on music and correct art Attending a tnchz (literally dance house; p131) is an excellent way to hear Hungarian
such as classical theatre.

ARCHITECTURE
folk music and even to learn to dance.
While the artistic, cultural and literary hypertrophy of Budapest is indisputable, it would Traditional Yiddish music is not as well known as the Gypsy and Roma varieties but it
be foolish to ignore folk art when discussing urban (and urbane) fine arts here. The two is of similar origin, having once been closely associated with central European folk music.
have been inextricably linked for several centuries and have greatly influenced one another. Until WWI, klezmer dance bands were led by the violin and cymbalom, but the influence
The music of Bla Bartk and the ceramic sculptures of Margit Kovcs are deeply rooted of Yiddish theatre and the first wax recordings inspired a switch to the clarinet, which is
in traditional Hungarian culture. Even the architecture of the Secession (p20) incorporated the predominant instrument in this type of music today. Klezmer music is currently going
many folk elements. The best place in Budapest to see this type of art is the Ethnography through something of a renaissance in Budapest.
Museum (p64). There are two ballet companies based in Budapest, though the best in the country is the
Gyr Ballet from Western Transdanubia. For modern dance, however, the capital is the
centre (p134). Among the finest orchestral companies are the Budapest Festival Orchestra
MUSIC & DANCE
Hungary has made many contributions to
and the Hungarian Radio Symphony Orchestra, which uses the name Budapest Symphony
Orchestra on certain domestic and all of its foreign recordings.
the world of classical music, but one person
stands head and shoulders above the rest:
TOP FIVE CDS
Franz or Ferenc Liszt. Liszt (181186),
who established the Academy of Music in
The Prisoners Song Some say this is the best
CD produced by Muzsiks with Marta Sebestyn ARCHITECTURE
You wont find as much Romanesque and Gothic architecture in Budapest as you will in,
Budapest and lived in a four-room 1st-floor and includes her song Szerelem, Szerelem
apartment on VI Vrsmarty utca (p71) (Love, Love), made famous in the film The English say, Prague the Mongols, Turks and Habsburgs destroyed most of it but the Royal
from 1881 until his death. Liszt liked to Patient (Anthony Minghella, 1996). Palace incorporates many Gothic features and the sedile (niches with seats) in the Castle
describe himself as part Gypsy, and some Romano Trip: Gypsy Grooves from Eastern District, most notably on I ri utca and I Orszghz utca, are pure Gothic. The chapels
of his works, notably the 20 Hungarian Europe This CD from the incomparable Romano in the Inner Town Parish Church (p64) have some fine Gothic and Renaissance taber-
Rhapsodies, do in fact echo the traditional Drom is where Roma folk meets world music, nacles, and you cant miss the Renaissance stonework along with the Gothic wooden
music of the Rom. with an electronic twist. sculptures and panel paintings and late-Gothic triptychs at the Hungarian National
Ferenc Erkel (181093), who taught at the Lechajem Rebbe This is the latest effort from the Gallery (p54).
Academy of Music from 1879 to 1886 and Budapest Klezmer Band, arguably the best ensem- Baroque architecture abounds in Buda-
was the State Opera Houses first musical ble anywhere playing traditional Jewish music. pest; youll see examples of it everywhere.
director, is the father of Hungarian opera. Hungarian Astronaut Anima Sound System St Annes Church (p58) on I Batthyny
Two of his works the stirringly nation- mixes Western beats with East European tonal tr in Buda and the buda Parish Church
alistic Bnk Bn, based on Jzsef Katonas flavours. (Map pp2267) on III Flrin tr are fine
play of that name, and Lszl Hunyadi are With the Gypsy Violin around the World: Sndor examples of ecclesiastical baroque while the
standards at the State Opera House. Erkel Dki Lakatos & His Gypsy Band No-ones Hun- Citadella (p56) on Gellrt Hill in Buda and
also composed the music for the Hungarian garian musical education is complete without this the municipal council office (Map p224) on
V Vroshz utca in Pest are baroque in its
national anthem, Himnusz. compilation, the epitome of saccharine csrds
music played in fancy hotel restaurants across civic or secular form. THIS IMAGE
Bla Bartk (18811945) and Zoltn Ko-
dly (18821967), were both long-term resi- Budapest. While modern architecture in Budapest NOT AVAILABLE
dents of Budapest (their former residences is almost completely forgettable with the
one notable exception of Imre Makovecz,
IN PICK & MIX
are now museums; see p61 and p72), made
the first systematic study of Hungarian folk music, travelling and recording throughout who has developed his own organic style
the Magyar linguistic region during 1906. Both integrated some of their findings into their using unusual materials like tree trunks and
own compositions Bartk in Bluebeards Castle, for example, and Kodly in his Peacock turf and whose work can be seen at the
Variations. office building at VIII Szentkirlyi utca 18
Away from classical music, it is important to distinguish between Gypsy music and (Map p222) and the spectacular funerary
Hungarian folk music. Gypsy music as it is known and heard in Hungarian restaurants from chapel with its reverse vaulted ceiling at the
Farkasrti Cemetery (Map p216) located in
18 19
 No 94 is the restored Lindenbaum apartment block (Map p222), the first in Hungary to use
UNCOVERING BUDAPESTS ART NOUVEAU TREASURES Art Nouveau ornamentation suns, stars, peacocks, shells and long-tressed nudes.
The master of the style, however, was dn Lechner (18451914), and his most ambi-
One of the joys of exploring the Queen of the Danube is that youll find elements of Art Nouveau and Secessionism in tious work in Budapest is the Applied Arts Museum (p69). Purpose-built as a museum
the oddest places; keep your eyes open and youll spot bits and pieces everywhere. and completed in time for the millenary exhibition in 1896, it was faced and roofed in a
Some people go out of their way for another glimpse of such hidden favourites near City Park as the Geology variety of Zsolnay ceramic tiles, and its turrets, domes and ornamental figures lend it an
Arts & Architecture

Arts & Architecture

Institute (Map pp21819; XIV Stefnia t 14), designed by Lechner in 1899, and Sndor Baumgartens National Institute Eastern or Indian feel. However, his crowning glory is the sumptuous former Royal Postal
for the Blind (Map pp21819; XIV Ajtsi Drer sor 39) dating from 1904, or the Philanthia (Map p224; V Vci utca 9), Savings Bank (Map p222) at V Hold utca 4, a Secessionist extravaganza of floral mosaics,
a flower shop with an exquisite Art Nouveau interior (Klmn Albert Krssy; 1906) in the Inner Town. folk motifs and ceramic figures just off Szabadsg tr in Liptvros and dating from 1901.
Other buildings worth a detour are the former Trk Bank House (Map p224; V Szervita tr 3), designed by Henrik The bulls head atop the central tower symbolises the nomadic past of the Magyars while
Bhm and rmin Hegeds in 1906 and sporting a wonderful Secessionist mosaic by Rth in the upper gable called the ceramic bees scurrying up the semi-pillars towards their hives represent organisation,
Patrona Hungariae, depicting Hungaria surrounded by great Hungarians of the past; rmin Hegeds primary school industry and economy.
(Map p222; VII Dob utca 85), built in the same year and with mosaics depicting contemporary childrens games; and the The Ferenc Liszt Academy of Music (p131), designed by Klmn Giergl and Flris Korb
delightful City Park Calvinist church (Map pp21819; VII Vrosligeti fasor 7), a stunning example of late Art Nouveau
ARCHITECTURE

PAINTING & SCULPTURE

in 1907, is not so interesting for its exterior as for its decorative elements within. Theres
architecture by Aladr Arkay (1913), with carved wooden gates, stained glass and ceramic tiles on the faade. Bed a dazzling Art Nouveau mosaic called Art Is the Source of Life by Aladr Krsfi Kriesch,
House (Map p222; V Honvd utca 3), an apartment block by Emil Vidor and completed in 1903, is one of the most intact a leader of the seminal Gdll Artists Colony, and some fine stained glass by master
Art Nouveau structures in the city. It contains some striking interior features and the exterior (ironwork gate, majolica craftsman Miksa Rth, whose home and workshop is now a museum (p69). Also note the
flowers, faces) has been renovated. grid of laurel leaves below the ceiling, which mimics the ironwork dome of the Secession
The style was hardly restricted to public buildings in Budapest, and the affluent districts to the west of City Park are Building (18971908) in Vienna, and the large sapphire-blue Zsolnay ball finials on the
happy hunting grounds for some of the best examples of private residences built in the Art Nouveau/Secessionist style. stair balusters.
The cream-coloured Egger Villa (Map pp21819; VII Vrosligeti fasor 24), designed by Emil Vidor in 1902, is among the Some buildings have got (or are getting) face-lifts and are being used for different pur-
purest and most extravagant examples of Art Nouveau in the city. On the other side of the road, the green Vidor poses, including the gem-like Gresham Palace (Map p224) at V Roosevelt tr 5-6, designed
Villa (Map pp21819; VII Vrosligeti fasor 33) with the curious turret was designed by Vidor for his father in 1905 and by Zsigmond Quittner (1907) and now housing a five-star hotel (p159).
incorporates any number of European styles in vogue at the time, including French Art Nouveau and Japanese-style
motifs. Other interesting buildings in this area are Ldere Mansion (Map p222; VI Bajza utca 42), a block with mosaics
built by Zoltn Blint and Lajos Jmbor in 1902, and Sonnenberg Mansion (Map pp21819; VI Munkcsy Mihly
utca 23). Designed by Albert Krssy in 1903, it is now the headquarters of the MDF political party. PAINTING & SCULPTURE
Distinctly Hungarian art didnt come into its own until the mid-19th century when Mihly
Pollack, Jzsef Hild and Mikls Ybl began changing the face of Budapest. The romantic
district XII that is not the case with the unique style of architecture that arrived in Buda- nationalist school of heroic paintings, best exemplified by Bertalan Szkely (18351910), who
pest at the end of the 19th and the start of the 20th centuries. painted much of the interior of Matthias Church (p55), and Gyula Benczr (18441920),
Art Nouveau architecture and its Viennese variant, Secessionism, abound here, and ex- gratefully gave way to the realism of Mihly Munkcsy (18441900), who received a state fun-
amples can be seen throughout the city; it is Budapests signature style. Its sinuous curves, eral in Hsk tere. But the greatest painters from this period were Kosztka Tivadar Csontvry
flowing, asymmetrical forms, colourful Zsolnay tiles and other decorative elements stand (18531919) and Jzsef Rippl-Rnai (18611927), both habitus of Caf Japan (see boxed
out like beacons in a sea of refined and elegant baroque and mannered, geometric neoclas- text, p126), whose works are on display at the Hungarian National Gallery (p54).
sical buildings. The 20th-century painter Victor Vasarely (190897), the so-called father of op art, has
Art Nouveau was both an architectural style and an art form that flourished in Europe his own museum (p60) in buda as does the contemporary sculptor Imre Varga (p60).
and the USA from about 1890 to 1910. It began in Britain as the Arts and Crafts Movement A turning point for modern art in Hungary came in 2005 when the Ludwig Museum of
founded by William Morris (183496), which stressed the importance of manual processes Contemporary Art (p70) moved from Castle Hill to its new (and purpose-built) premises
over machines and attempted to create a new organic style in direct opposition to the imi- in the Palace of Arts opposite the National Theatre on the Danube.
tative banalities spawned by the Industrial Revolution. It soon spread to Europe, where it
took on distinctly local and/or national characteristics. In France it became known as Art
Nouveau or Style 1900, in Germany as Jugendstil and in Italy as Stile Liberty.
In Vienna a group of artists called the Secessionists lent its name to the more geometric LITERATURE
Sndor Petfi (182349), who led the Youth of March through the streets of Pest in 1848,
local style of Art Nouveau architecture: Sezessionstil (Hungarian: Szecesszi). In Budapest,
the use of traditional faades with allegorical and historical figures and scenes, folk motifs is Hungarys most celebrated and accessible poet, and a line from his work National Song
and Zsolnay ceramics and other local materials led to an eclectic style. Though working became the rallying cry for the 184849 War of Independence, in which Petfi fought and
within an Art Nouveau/Secessionist framework, this style emerged as something that was died. A deeply philosophical play called The Tragedy of Man by his colleague, Imre Madch
uniquely Hungarian. (182364), published a decade after Hungarys defeat in the War of Independence, is still
Fashion and styles changed as whimsically and rapidly at the start of the 20th century as considered to be the countrys greatest classical drama. Madch did not participate in the war
they do a century later, and by the end of the first decade Art Nouveau and its variations were due to illness but was imprisoned in Pest for assisting Lajos Kossuths secretary in 1852.
considered limited, pass, even tacky. Fortunately for the good citizens of Budapest and us, the The defeat in 1849 led many writers to look to Romanticism for inspiration and solace:
economic and political torpor of the prewar period and the 40-year big sleep after WWII left heroes, winners, and knights in shining armour became popular subjects. Petfis comrade-
many Art Nouveau/Secessionist buildings here beaten but standing many more, in fact, than in-arms, Jnos Arany (181782), whose name is synonymous with impeccable Hungarian
remain in such important Art Nouveau/Jugendstil centres as Paris, Brussels and Vienna. and who edited two Pest literary journals in the 1860s, wrote epic poetry (including the
The first Hungarian architect to look to Art Nouveau for inspiration was Frigyes Spiegel, Toldi Trilogy) and ballads.
with his exotic and symbolic ornamentation. At the northern end of VI Izabella utca at Another friend of Petfi, the prolific novelist Mr Jkai (18251904), who divided his time
between his villa in XII Klt utca in Buda and his summer retreat at Balatonfred on Lake
20 21
 Balaton, wrote of heroism and honesty in such wonderful works as The Man with the Golden
Touch and Black Diamonds. This Hungarian Dickens still enjoys widespread popularity. TOP FIVE BUDAPEST BOOKS
Another perennial favourite, Klmn Mikszth (18471910), wrote satirical tales such as The
Good Palc People and St Peters Umbrella in which he poked fun at the declining gentry. Ap- Under the Frog (Tibor Fischer, 2001). Amusing account of the antics of two members of Hungarys elite national
parently the former US president Theodore Roosevelt enjoyed the latter work so much that basketball team in Budapest from WWII through to the 1956 Uprising.
he insisted on visiting the ageing novelist in Budapest during a European tour in 1910. Homage to the Eighth District (Giorgio and Nicola Pressburger, 1990) Poignant account of life in what was a Jewish
Arts & Architecture

Arts & Architecture

Zsigmond Mricz (18791942), one of the cofounders of the influential literary magazine working-class section of Budapest during and after WWII by twin brothers who emigrated to Italy in 1956.
Nyugat (West; 1908) was a very different type of writer. His works, in the tradition of the Liquidation (Imre Kertsz, 2003) Set in Budapest in the aftermath of the fall of communism, Liquidation is the story
French naturalist mile Zola (18401902), examined the harsh reality of peasant life in late- of a book editor coping with the suicide of a friend.
19th-century Hungary. His contemporary, Mihly Babits (18831941), poet and the editor Memoir of Hungary: 19441948 (Sndor Mrai, 2001) Remembrances, including the war-time destruction of Buda-
of Nyugat, made the rejuvenation of Hungarian literature his lifelong work. pest and the Red Armys arrival and occupation, of the celebrated playwright and author of Embers, performed in
Two other important names of this period are the poet and short-story writer Dezs London during 2006, who fled Budapest in 1948 to escape communist persecution.
Kosztolnyi (18851936), who met his lifelong friend Babits at university in Pest, and the Prague (Arthur Phillips, 2002) Cleverly titled debut novel it takes place in Budapest and the title supposedly refers
to the desire by many of the books characters to live in the more bohemian paradise of the Czech capital by a
LITERATURE

CINEMA
young expat American that focuses on life in Budapest in the first years after the changes from a communist past.

RUBIK CUBES, BIROS, VITAMIN C & ZSA ZSA

It is not enough to be Hungarian one must also have talent. novelist Gyula Krdy (18781933), who lived in buda and liked the bone marrow on toast
Slogan spotted in a Toronto employment office in the early 1960s as served at Khli (p96) so much that he included a description of it in his The Adventures
of Sinbad.
The contributions made by Hungarians in any number of fields from films and toys to science and fine art both at Two 20th-century poets are unsurpassed in Hungarian letters. Endre Ady (18771919),
home and abroad have been enormous, especially when you consider the nations size and relatively small population. who is sometimes described as the successor to Petfi, was a reformer who ruthlessly at-
The following is a list of people whom you may not have known were Hungarian or of Hungarian ancestry. Should you tacked the complacency and materialism of Hungary at that time, provoking a storm of
want the list expanded on, get a hold of Eminent Hungarians by Ray Keenoy, a light-hearted look at the phenomenon, protest from right-wing nationalists. He died in his flat on V Veres Pln utca in Pest at
or check out www.webenetics.com/hungary/famous.htm. the age of 42. The work of the socialist poet Attila Jzsef (19051937), who was raised in
the slums of Ferencvros, expressed the alienation felt by individuals in the modern age;
Biro, Leslie (Br Jzsef Lszl; 18991985) Inventor of the ballpoint pen, which he patented in 1938.
By the Danube is brilliant even in English translation.
Brassa (Halsz Gyula; 18991984) Hungarian-born French poet, draftsman, sculptor and photographer, known for A recent rediscovery is the late Sndor Mrai (190089), whose crisp, spare style has
his dramatic photographs of Paris by night. single-handedly encouraged worldwide interest in Hungarian literature.
Capa, Robert (Friedmann Endre Ern; 191354) One of the greatest war photographers and photojournalists of the Among Hungarys most important contemporary writers are Imre Kertsz (1929),
20th century. Gyrgy Konrd (1933), Pter Ndas (1942), Pter Esterhzy (1950) and Magda Szab
(1917), the most prominent female author writing in Hungary today. Konrds A Feast
Cukor, George (Cukor Gyrgy; 18991983) Legendary American film producer/director (The Philadelphia Story, 1940).
in the Garden (1985) is an almost autobiographical account of the fate of the Jewish com-
Curtis, Tony (Bernard Schwartz; 1925) Evergreen American actor (Spartacus, 1960). munity in a small eastern Hungarian town. A Book of Memoirs by Ndas concerns the
Eszterhas, Joe (Eszterhs Jzsef; 1944) American scriptwriter (Basic Instinct, 1989). decline of communism in the style of Thomas Mann. In his The End of a Family Story,
he uses a child narrator as a filter for the adult experience of 1950s communist Hungary.
Gabor, Eva (191995) American actress chiefly remembered for her starring role as a New York city socialite making
Esterhzys Celestial Harmonies (2000) is a partly autobiographical novel that paints a
her comical life on a farm in the 1960s TV series Green Acres; younger sister of Zsa Zsa.
favourable portrait of the protagonists father. His subsequent Revised Edition (2002) is
Gabor, Zsa Zsa (1917?-) Ageless-ish American starlet of grade BBB films and older sister of Eva. based on documents revealing his father to have been a government informer during the
Houdini, Harry (Weisz Erich; 18741926) American magician and celebrated escape artist. communist regime. Whoops. Szabs The Door (1987) is the compelling story of a woman
Howard, Leslie (Steiner Lszl; 18931943) Quintessential English actor most famous for his role in Gone with the
writer and the symbiotic relationship she has with her housekeeper.
In 2002 novelist and Auschwitz survivor Kertsz was awarded the Nobel Prize for Litera-
Wind (1939).
ture, the first time a Hungarian has ever gained that distinction. Of his eight novels, only
Lauder, Este (Josephine Esther Mentzer; 19082004) American fragrance and cosmetics baroness. three Fateless (1975), Kaddish for a Child Not Born (1990) and Liquidation (2003) have
Liszt, Franz (Liszt Ferenc; 181186) Piano virtuoso and composer. been translated into English.
Lugosi, Bla (Blask Bla Ferenc Dezs; 18821956) The film worlds only real Dracula and minister of culture
under the Bla Kun regime (p45).
Rubik, Ern (1944) Inventor of the hottest toy of the 1980 Christmas season an infuriating plastic cube with 54 CINEMA
The scarcity of government grants has limited the production of quality Hungarian films
small squares that when twisted out of its original arrangement has 43 quintillion variations.
to less than 20 in recent years, but a handful of good (and even great) ones still get pro-
Soros, George (Soros Gyrgy; 1930) Billionaire financier and philanthropist. duced. For classics, look out for anything by the Oscar-winning Istvn Szab (Sweet Emma,
Szent-Gyrgyi, Dr Albert (18931986) Nobel Prize-winning biochemist who discovered vitamin C. Dear Bbe, The Taste of Sunshine), Mikls Jancs (Outlaws) and Pter Bacs (The Witness,
Vasarely, Victor (Vsrhelyi Gyz; 190897) Hungarian-born French painter of geometric abstractions and the Live Show).
father of op art. Other favourites are Simon Mgus, the surrealistic epic tale of two magicians and a young
woman in Paris directed by Ildik Enyedi, and her more recent Tender Interface, which
Wilder, Billy (Wilder Samuel; 19062002) American film director and producer (Some Like It Hot, 1959). deals with the brain-drain from Hungary after WWII.
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 Lonely Planet Publications

TOP FIVE BUDAPEST FILMS

Kontroll (Inspection; Hungary, 2003) Hungarian-American director Nimrd Antals high-speed romantic thriller set
almost entirely in the Budapest metro in which assorted outcasts, lovers and dreamers meet and interact.
Evita (USA, 1996) Youd never know it, but that Buenos Aires cathedral in Alan Parkers opus is the Basilica of St
Arts & Architecture

Stephen, the grand, tree-lined boulevard is Andrssy t and the swarthy horse guards belong to the Hungarian
cavalry.
Ein Lied von Liebe und Tod (Gloomy Sunday; Germany/Hungary, 1999) German director Rolf Schbels romantic
drama set in a Budapest restaurant just before the Nazi invasion and revolving around the famously depressing
tune Gloomy Sunday (p11).
Amerikai Rapszdia (American Rhapsody; Hungary, 2001) Film by va Gardos with Nastassja Kinski and a very
young Scarlett Johansson, involving a Budapest couples escape from communist Hungary and their daughters
later search for identity.
CINEMA

Napolon (France, 2002) Yves Simoneaus epic film about the French emperors life starring Grard Dpardieu,
Isabella Rossellini and John Malkovich was filmed in Budapest and is the most expensive European production
to date.

Pter Timrs Csinibaba is a satirical look at life and film production quality during
the communist regime. Zimmer Feri, set on Lake Balaton, pits a young practical joker
against a bunch of loud German tourists; the typo in the title is deliberate. Timrs 6:3 takes
viewers back to 1953 to that glorious moment when Hungary defeated England in football
(p140). Gbor Herendis Something America is the comic tale of a filmmaking team trying
to profit from an expatriate Hungarian who pretends to be a rich producer.
If youre looking for something really different, dont miss Hukkle by Gyrgy Plfi, a
curious film in which dialogue has been replaced with a bizarre cacophony of hiccups,
belches, buzzing and grunting. Classic, sinister David Lynch-like film or lads movie? You
decide.

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 Lonely Planet Publications

Food & Drink

History 26
Culture 26
Etiquette 26
How Budapesters Eat 27
Staples & Specialities 27
Bread & Noodles 27
Soups 28
Meat & Fish 28
Paprika 28
Vegetables 29
Desserts 29
Drinks 29
Nonalcoholic Drinks 29
Alcoholic Drinks 30

24
Celebrating with Food 32
 HOW BUDAPESTERS EAT
Food & Drink

www.lonelyplanet.com
Hungarians are for the most part not big eaters of reggeli (breakfast), preferring a cup of
tea or coffee with an unadorned bread roll at the kitchen table or on the way to work. As it
is a meal at which most Magyars hardly excel, expect the worst of hotel breakfasts ersatz
coffee, weak tea, unsweetened lemon water for juice, tiny triangles of processed cheese
A lot has been written about Hungarian food. Some of it has been true, an equal amount and stale bread. You may be pleasantly surprised, however.
downright false, including our all-time favourite told to us by, of course, a Hungarian: The Ebd (lunch), eaten at around 1pm, was once the main meal of the day and might still
world has three essential cuisines Chinese, French and Hungarian. Even the truisms of consist of two or even three courses. Vacsora (dinner or supper) is less substantial when
Hungarian cuisine beg qualification. It has had many outside influences but has changed eaten at home, often just sliced meats, cheese and some pickled vegetables.
relatively little over the centuries compared with many other styles of cooking. And while Its important to know the different styles of eateries to be found in Budapest. An tterem

Food & Drink

cooks here make great use of paprika, that spices hottest variety (called csps) is pretty is a restaurant with a wide-ranging menu, sometimes including international dishes. A
tame stuff; a taco with salsa or chicken vindaloo from the corner takeaway will taste a lot vendgl or kisvendgl is smaller and is supposed to serve inexpensive regional dishes or
more fiery to you. home cooking. But the name has become cute enough for a lot of large places to use it
indiscriminately. An tkezde is something like a vendgl but cheaper, smaller and often has
counter seating. The term csrda originally signified a country inn with a rustic atmosphere,
HISTORY Gypsy music and hearty local dishes. Now any place that hangs up a couple of painted plates

STAPLES & SPECIALITIES

and strings a few strands of dry paprika on the wall is a csrda.
Budapests reputation as a food capital of the world dates largely from the late 19th cen- A bisztr is a much cheaper sit-down place that is often nkiszolgl (self-service). A bf
tury and, bizarrely, to a certain degree from the chilly days of communism. During the is cheaper still with a very limited menu. Here you eat while standing at counters.
heady period following the promulgation of the Dual Monarchy in 1867 and right up Hentesru bolt (butcher shops) in Budapest sometimes have a bf selling cooked kolbsz
until WWII, food became a passion among well-to-do Budapesters, and writers and poets (sausage), wirsli (frankfurters), hurka (blood sausage or liverwurst), roast chicken, bread
were generous in their praise of it. This was the gilded age of the famous chef Kroly and pickled vegetables. Point to what you want; the staff will weigh it all and hand you a
Gundel and the confectioner Jzsef Dobos, and of Gypsy violinists such as Jancsi Rigo and slip of paper with the price. You usually pay at the pnztr (cashier) and hand the stamped
Gyula Benczi, when nothing was too extravagant. The world took note and Hungarian receipt back to the staff for your food. You pay for everything here, including a slice of rye
restaurants sprouted up in cities across the world including a Caf Budapest in Boston, bread and a dollop of mustard for your kolbsz.
Massachusetts complete with their imported Gypsy bands and waiters who sounded Food stalls, known as a Laci konyha (Larrys kitchen) or pecsenyest (roast ovens) are
like Bela Lugosi. often near markets or train stations. One of the more popular traditional snacks is lngos,
After WWII, Budapests gastronomic reputation lived on most notably because every- deep-fried dough with various toppings (usually cheese and sour cream).
thing that was offered in the other capital cities of the region was so bad. Food here was,
as one observer noted, a bright spot in a culinary black hole. But most of the best chefs,
including Gundel himself, had voted with their feet and left the country in the 1950s, and
restaurants were put under state control. The reputation and the reality of food in Budapest STAPLES & SPECIALITIES
had diverged.
BREAD & NOODLES
It is said that people here will eat bread with bread and kenyr (leftover bread) has been
CULTURE
Although still relatively inexpensive by European standards and served in huge portions,
used to thicken soups and stews since at least the reign of medieval king Matthias or so
contemporary reports would have us believe and kifli (crescent rolls) gained popularity
Hungarian food today remains heavy and, at times, can be unhealthy. Meat, sour cream and
fat usually pork abound and, except in season, salta (salad) means a plate of pickled
vegetables. Things are changing, however, in the Hungarian capital with more vegetarian
and international choices available (see p92).

ETIQUETTE
People in Budapest tend to meet their friends and entertain outside of their homes at cafs
and restaurants. Drinking is an important part of social life in the capital of a country that THIS IMAGE
has produced wine and fruit brandies for thousands of years. Consumption is high; only the
Luxembourgeois and Irish drink more alcohol per capita in Europe than the Hungarians.
NOT AVAILABLE
Alcoholism in Hungary is not as visible to the outsider as it is, say, in Poland or Russia, IN PICK & MIX
but its there nonetheless; official figures suggest that as much as 9% of the population are
fully fledged alcoholics. There is little pressure for others (particularly women) to drink,
however, so if you really dont want that glass of apricot brandy that your host has handed
you, refuse politely.
It is said that Hungarians dont clink glasses when drinking beer because thats how the
Habsburgs celebrated the defeat of Lajos Kossuth in the 184849 War of Independence
(p43), but most Magyars say thats codswallop.
26 27
 during the Turkish occupation. But, frankly, bread available commercially in Budapest is is cut into strips, black pepper is on equal
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not as memorable as the flour-based galuska dumplings and the tarhonya (egg barley pasta) footing with the paprika, and bacon, sau- A MAGYAR MATCH MADE IN
served with prklt, papriks and tokny (see below) dishes. sage or mushroom are added as flavouring
agents. HEAVEN
The pairing of food with wine is as great an obses-
SOUPS sion here as it is in Paris. Everyone agrees that sweets
Most Hungarian meals start with leves (soup). As a starter this is usually something rela- VEGETABLES like strudel go very well indeed with a glass of Tokaji
tively light like gombaleves (mushroom soup) or hsgombcleves (meat-filled dumplings in A main course served in a restaurant usu- Asz, but what is less appreciated is the wonderful
consomm), but more substantial varieties are beef gulysleves (below) and bableves, a thick ally comes with some sort of starch and a synergy that this wine enjoys with savoury foods like
bean soup usually made with meat, which are sometimes eaten as a main course. Another little garnish. Vegetables and salads must be foie gras and cheeses such as Roquefort, Stilton and
Food & Drink

Food & Drink

favourite is halszl (fishermans soup), a rich soup of poached carp, fish stock, tomatoes, ordered separately. Gorgonzola. A bone-dry Olaszrizling from Badacsony
green peppers and paprika. Fresh salad as its usually known around is a superb complement to any fish dish, but espe-
the world is called vitamin salta here and cially the pike-perch indigenous to Lake Balaton. Vil-
is generally available when lettuces are in lny Sauvignon Blanc is an excellent accompaniment
MEAT & FISH season; almost everything else is savanysg to goats cheese.
People here eat an astonishing amount of meat, and meat-stuffed meat is a dish com- (literally sourness), which can be anything It would be a shame to waste a big wine like
STAPLES & SPECIALITIES

DRINKS
monly found on Budapests menus. Pork, beef, veal and poultry are the meats most often from mildly sour-sweet cucumbers, pickled a Vili Papa Cuve on traditional but simple Hungar-
encountered and they can be breaded and fried, baked, turned into some paprika-flavoured peppers and almost acid-tasting sauerkraut. ian dishes like gulys or prklt; save it for a more
concoction or simmered in lecs, a tasty mix of peppers, tomatoes and onions (and one It may seem an acquired taste, but such complex or sophisticated meat dish. Try Kkfrankos or
of the few sauces here that does not include paprika). Goose livers and legs and turkey things actually go very well with heavy meat Szekszrd Kadarka with these simpler dishes. Cream-
breasts though not much else of either bird make it on to most menus. A typical menu dishes. based dishes stand up well to late-harvest Furmint,
will have up to 10 pork and beef dishes, a couple of fish ones and usually only one poultry Zldsg (boiled vegetables), when they and pork dishes are nice with new Furmint or Kk-
dish. Lamb and mutton are rarely eaten here. are available, are angolos zldsg (English- frankos. Try Hrslevel with poultry.
Freshwater fish, such as the indigenous fogas (great pike-perch) and the smaller sll style). The traditional way of preparing
from Lake Balaton, and ponty (carp) from the nations rivers and streams, is plentiful but vegetables real Hungarian comfort food
can be expensive in Budapest. and enjoying a major comeback at retro-style eateries across the city is in fzelk, in
which peas, green beans, lentils or marrow are fried or boiled and then mixed into a roux
with milk and topped with a few slices of meat.
PAPRIKA
Many dishes are seasoned with paprika, a spice as Magyar as St Stephens right hand (p64);
indeed, not only is it used in cooking but it also appears on restaurant tables as a condiment DESSERTS
beside the salt and pepper shakers. Its generally quite a mild spice and is used predomin- Budapesters love sweets and consume them with gusto though more intricate pastries
antly with sour cream or in rnts, a heavy roux of pork lard and flour added to cooked such as Dobos torta, a layered chocolate and cream cake with a caramelised brown sugar
vegetables. Tlttt, things stuffed with meat and/or rice, such as cabbage or peppers, are top, and the wonderful rtes (strudel) filled with poppy seeds or cherry preserves, are usu-
cooked in rnts as well as in tomato sauce or sour cream. ally consumed midafternoon in one of Budapests ubiquitous cukrszdk (cake shops or
There are four major types of meat dishes that use paprika. The most famous is gulys ptisseries). Desserts more commonly found on restaurant menus include somli galuska,
(or gulysleves), a thick beef soup cooked with onions, cubed potatoes and paprika and sponge cake with chocolate and whipped cream, and Gundel palacsinta, flambed pancake
usually eaten as a main course. Prklt, or stew, is closer to what foreigners call goulash; with chocolate and nuts.
the addition of sour cream, less paprika and white meat such as chicken makes the dish
papriks. Tokny is similar to prklt and papriks except that the meat is not cubed but
DRINKS
A kvhv is literally a coffee house ie a caf (see boxed text, p126) and the best place to
TOP FIVE FOOD & WINE BOOKS stop if you just want something hot or soft and cold. An eszpressz, along with being a type
The Cuisine of Hungary (George Lang, 1985) Celebrated restaurateur and bon vivant Lang offers a comprehensive of coffee, is essentially a coffee house too, but it usually also sells alcoholic drinks and light
history of Magyar cooking and examination of its regional differences. His subsequent autobiography, Nobody snacks. A cukrszda serves cakes, pastries and ice cream as well as hot and cold drinks.
Knows the Truffles Ive Seen (1998), is worth purchasing for the title alone. To sample some local brew or vintage try visiting the srzk, pubs with csapolt sr
Culinaria Hungary (Aniko Gegely et al, 2000) This is a beautifully illustrated 320-page tome on all things involv- (draught beer) available on tap; borozk, establishments (usually dives) serving wine; and
ing Hungarian food, from soup to nuts and more, and is as prized for its recipes as the history and traditions it pinck, which can be either beer or wine cellars but are usually the latter and also called
describes. bor pinck.
The Hungarian Cookbook (Susan Derecskey, 1987) If you dont need pictures but you do need simple, easy-to-follow
recipes for Hungarian comfort food, this practical book is for you.
Terra Benedicta: Tokaj and Beyond (Gbor Rohly et al, 2004) This attractive tome is both a useful source book and NONALCOHOLIC DRINKS
a richly illustrated record of Hungarian wine, with regional, illustrative photographs and lots of detail on wineries. Most international soft drink brands are available in Budapest, but svny vz (mineral
The Wines of Hungary (Alex Liddell, 2003) For a look not just at the wines themselves but the whole picture, this water) seems to be the most popular libation for teetotallers in cafs, pubs and bars. Fruit
no-nonsense guide is ideal. juice is usually canned or boxed fruit drink with lots of sugar added, though some us are
addicted to the cherry variety.
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 Budapesters drink a tremendous amount of kv (coffee) as a feketes (single black), a
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dupla (double) or tejes kv (with milk). Most cafs now serve some variation of cappuc- MENU READER
cino. Decaffeinated coffee is koffeinmentes kv.
Black tea (tea; pronounced tay-ah) is not as popular as coffee in Budapest; in fact, it can Restaurant menus are often translated into German and English, with mixed degrees of success. The following is a
often be difficult to find English tea in small grocery stores, though youll always be able sample menu as it would appear in many restaurants in Budapest. Its far from complete, but it gives a good idea of
to choose from a wide range of herbal teas and fruit tisanes. People here never add milk to what to expect. The main categories on a menu include those below; ksztelek are ready-made dishes that are just
tea, preferring lemon, honey or even rum. heated up while frissensltek are made to order. Other words you might encounter are haltelek or halak (fish dishes),
szrnyasok (poultry dishes), dessgek (another word for dessert) and sajtok (cheeses).

Eltelek (Starters) Frissensltek (Dishes Made to Order)

ALCOHOLIC DRINKS hortobgyi palacsinta meat-filled pancakes with bcsiszelet Wiener schnitzel
Food & Drink

Food & Drink

Hungarians are big drinkers and enjoy a tipple at the drop of a hat (or a forint or a glass).
Beer, especially lager, is extremely popular with the young, older folk drink homemade paprika sauce brassi aprpecsenye braised pork Braov-style
fruit-flavoured brandies and wine is drunk by everyone. libamjpsttom goose-liver pt cignypecsenye roast pork Gypsy-style
rntott gombafejek breaded, fried mushrooms cslk smoked pork knuckle
Beer Levesek (Soups) fogas Balaton pike-perch
bableves bean soup rntott htsznszelet breaded, fried rump steak
DRINKS

Hungary produces a number of its own beers for national distribution, and the most com-
mon ones are Dreher, Kbnyai and Arany szok, all brewed in or near Budapest. Bottled csontleves consomm rntott ponty breaded, fried carp
Austrian, German and Czech beers are readily available. Locally brewed and imported gombaleves mushroom soup rntott pulykamell breaded, fried turkey breast
beer here is almost always lager, though occasionally youll come across Dreher Barna, a hsgombcleves meat-filled dumplings in consomm sertsborda pork chop
brown or stout. jkai bableves bean soup with meat slt csirkecomb roast chicken thigh
At a pub, beer is served in a pohr (0.3L) or a kors (0.4L or 0.5L). In an old-fashioned meggyleves cold sour-cherry soup (in summer) slt libamj fried goose liver
wine bar, the wine is ladled out by the deci (decilitre, 0.1L), but in more modern places it
comes by the ill-defined pohr (glass). jhzi tykhsleves chicken broth with noodles desssgek (Desserts)
Saltk (Salads) Dobos torta multilayered Dobos chocolate and cream
ckla salta pickled beetroot salad cake with caramelised brown sugar top
Brandy & Liqueur ecetes almapaprika pickled peppers Gundel palacsinta Gundel flambed pancake with
Plinka is a strong (about 40% alcohol) brandy or eau de vie distilled from a variety of fruits chocolate and nuts
but most commonly from apricots or plums. There are many different types and qualities, paradicsom salta tomato salad
rtes strudel
but among our favourites is barack, the double-distilled Old Apricot, the kind made with uborka salta sliced pickled-cucumber salad
somli galuska Soml-style sponge cake with
mlna (raspberry) and anything with kser vegyes salta mixed salad of pickles
chocolate and whipped cream
(kosher) on the label. vitamin salta seasonal mixed salad
Hungarian liqueurs are usually unbear- Gymlcs (Fruit)
ably sweet and artificial tasting, though
Zldsg (Vegetables)
alma apple
Zwack (p70) is reliable. Zwack also pro- gomba mushroom
cseresznye sweet cherry
duces Unicum, a bitter aperitif that has kposzta cabbage
(fldi)eper strawberry
been around since 1790. Habsburg emperor karfiol cauliflower
Joseph II supposedly named it when he first krte pear
tasted it, exclaiming Das ist ein Unikum! THIS IMAGE srgarpa carrot
sprga asparagus
mlna raspberry
(This is a unique drink!). NOT AVAILABLE spent spinach
meggy sour (Morello) cherry
IN PICK & MIX zldbab string (green) bean
narancs orange
szibarack peach
Wine zldbors pea
srgabarack apricot
Wine has been produced in Hungary for Kretek (Side Dishes)
thousands of years, and it remains very szilva plum
important both economically and socially. fzelk Hungarian-style vegetables szl grape
Youll find it available by the glass or bottle galuska dumplings Cooking Methods
everywhere in Budapest at very basic wine rizi-bizi rice with peas
bars, food stalls, restaurants, supermarkets ftt or fve boiled
slt hasbburgonya chips (French fries)
and 24-hour grocery stores usually at rea- fzelk frying or boiling vegetables, then mixing into
sonable prices. If youre seriously into wine, visit the speciality wine shops on both sides of Ksztelek (Ready-Made Dishes) a roux with cream
the Danube and reviewed in the Shopping chapter. csirke papriks paprika chicken fstlt smoked
Before WWII Hungarian wine was much in demand throughout Europe, but with the gulys beef goulash soup pirtott braised
advent of socialism and mass production, quality went down the drain. Most of what halszl spicy fish soup rntva or rntott breaded and fried
wasnt consumed at home went to the Soviet Union where, frankly, they were prepared to prklt stew (many types) roston grilled
drink anything. Political and economic circumstances provided little incentive to upgrade
antiquated standards of wine-making. All of that has changed over the past decade and tlttt paprika/kposzta stuffed peppers/cabbage slt or stve fried or roasted

30 31
 Lonely Planet Publications
a half. Small- to medium-sized family-owned wineries such as Tiffn, Bock, Szeremley,
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Thummerer and Szepsy are now producing very fine wines indeed.
When choosing a Hungarian wine, look for the words minsgi bor (quality wine) or
klnleges minsg bor (premium quality wine), Hungarys version of the French quality
regulation appellation controle. Generally speaking, vjrat (vintage) has become import-
ant only recently so should not be much of a concern just yet.
The first word of the name on the label of a wine bottle indicates where the wine comes
from while the second word is the grape variety (eg Villnyi Kkfrankos) or the type or
brand of wine (eg Tokaji Asz, Szekszrdi Bikavr). Other important words that youll see
include: des (sweet), fehr (white), fldes (semisweet), flszraz (semidry or medium),
Food & Drink

pezsg (sparkling), szraz (dry) and vrs (red).

Hungary now counts 22 distinct wine-growing areas in Transdanubia, the Balaton re-
gion, the Northern Uplands and on the Great Plain. They range in size from tiny Soml
(essentially just one hill) in Western Transdanubia, to the vast vineyards of the Kunsg on
the Southern Plain, with its sandy soil nurturing more than a third of all the grapevines
growing in the country.
CELEBRATING WITH FOOD

Of course its all a matter of taste, but the most distinctive red wines come from Villny
and Szekszrd in Southern Transdanubia and the best whites are produced around Lake
Balaton and in Soml. The reds from Eger and sweet whites from Tokaj are much better
known abroad, however, and these two regions are the most dynamic when it comes to
wine production.

CELEBRATING WITH FOOD

Traditional culture, particularly where it involves food, is not exactly thriving in Hungary,
though a popular event for Budapesters with tenuous ties to the countryside is the diszn-
tor, the slaughtering of a pig followed by an orgy of feasting and drinking. (The butchering,
gratefully, is done somewhere out the back by an able-bodied peasant.) The celebration can
even boast its own dish: diszntoros kposzta, which is stuffed cabbage served with freshly
made sausages. Wine festivals, now mostly commercial events with rock bands and the
like, occur during the harvest in September and October and are always a good excuse for
getting sloshed (see p10).
Its traditional to eat csirke papriks (paprika chicken) and sajtos rtes (strudel) at name-
day feasts (see p12).

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 Lonely Planet Publications

History

The Recent Past 34

The Republic of Hungary Reborn 34
The Road to Europe 34
From the Beginning 35
Early Inhabitants 35
The Great Migrations 36
The Magyars & the Conquest of
the Carpathian Basin 36
King Stephen I & the rpd Dynasty 38
Medieval Budapest 39
The Battle of Mohcs & Turkish Occupation 40
Habsburg Rule 41
The 184849 War of Independence 43
The Dual Monarchy 44
WWI & the Republic of Councils 44
The Horthy Years & WWII 45
The Peoples Republic 46
The 1956 Uprising 47
Hungary Under Kdr 48
The End of an Era 48
32
 (Hungarian Civic Party) to its name to attract the support of the burgeoning middle class.
History

www.lonelyplanet.com
In the elections of 1998, during which it campaigned for closer integration with Europe,
Fidesz-MPP won government by forming a coalition with the MDF and the agrarian and
conservative FKgP. The partys youthful leader, Viktor Orbn, was named prime minister.
Despite the astonishing economic growth and other gains made by the coalition govern-
ment, the electorate grew hostile to Fidesz-MPPs and Orbns strongly nationalistic
THE RECENT PAST rhetoric and perceived arrogance. In April 2002 the largest turnout of voters in Hungarian
history unseated the government in the countrys most closely fought election ever and
returned the MSZP, now allied with the SZDSZ, to power under Prime Minister Pter
THE REPUBLIC OF HUNGARY REBORN Medgyessy, a free-market advocate who had served as finance minister in the early Horn gov-
It may come as a surprise to some, but Budapest has only been the capital of the Republic ernment. In August 2004, amid revelations that he had served as a counterintelligence officer
of Hungary for just over a decade and a half since 23 October 1989, the 33rd anniversary in the late 1970s and early 1980s while working in the finance ministry, Medgyessy resigned,
of the 1956 Uprising. For some four decades before this, it had been the chief city of the the first collapse of a government in Hungarys postcommunist history. Sports Minister
socialist Peoples Republic of Hungary. Ferenc Gyurcsny of the MSZP was named in his place. In April 2006 the MSZP-SZDSZ
At its party congress in February 1989, the ruling Hungarian Socialist Workers Party coalition became the first government to win consecutive general elections since 1989.

History
having seen the handwriting on the wall changed its name to the Hungarian Socialist Party Hungary joined NATO in 1999 and, with nine other accession countries, was admitted
(MSZP) and later in the year generously agreed to surrender its monopoly on power and into the EU in May 2004. In June 2005 parliament elected Lszl Slyom, a law profes-
to hold elections. Its new programme advocated not jailing dissidents or shooting people sor and founding member of the MDF, as the third president of the republic to succeed
who attempted to flee across the border but social democracy and a free-market economy. Ferenc Mdl.
Most voters saw them as evil, two-faced despots who had just changed their outfit; hollow

FROM THE BEGINNING

promises were not enough to shake off the stigma of four decades of autocratic rule.
The 1990 election was instead won by the centrist Hungarian Democratic Forum (MDF),
which advocated a gradual transition to capitalism and was led by a softly spoken former FROM THE BEGINNING
Budapest has been called the Janus-faced city because it looks in opposing directions. It is
museum curator, Jozsef Antall. The social-democratic Alliance of Free Democrats (SZDSZ),
which had called for much faster change, came in a distant second with 18% of the vote. As at the same time one of the oldest and one of the youngest cities in Europe. The Romans
Gorbachev looked on, Hungary changed political systems as if it were clothing and the last settled here early in the 1st century AD and built what would eventually become one of
Soviet troops left Hungarian soil in June 1991. Street names in Budapest such as Lenin krt their most thriving metropolises. At the other end of the spectrum, the story of modern
and Marx tr ended up on the rubbish tip of history and monuments to glorious workers Budapest only begins in 1873 when hilly, residential Buda and historic buda on the
and esteemed leaders were packed off to a socialist-realist zoo called Statue Park (p62). western bank of the Danube (Duna) River merged with flat, industrial Pest on the eastern
In coalition with two smaller parties the Independent Smallholders (FKgP) and the side to form what was at first called Pest-Buda. But, of course, a whole lot more happened
Christian Democrats (KDNP) the MDF provided Hungary with sound government dur- here before then.
ing its painful transition to a full market economy. Those years saw Hungarys northern
(Czechoslovakia) and southern (Yugoslavia) neighbours split along ethnic lines; Prime
Minister Antall did little to improve Hungarys relations with Slovakia, Romania or Yugo- EARLY INHABITANTS
slavia by claiming to be the emotional and spiritual prime minister of the large Magyar The Carpathian Basin, in which Hungary lies, has been populated for hundreds of thou-
minorities in those countries. It was also a relatively lawless period so fittingly described sands of years. Bone fragments found and exhibited at Vrtesszls near Tata, some 70km
in Julian Rubensteins Ballad of the Whiskey Robber (see p41). northwest of Budapest, in the 1960s, and believed to be half a million years old, suggest that
Despite initial successes in curbing inflation and lowering interest rates, a host of eco- Palaeolithic humans were attracted to the area by its thermal springs and the abundance of
nomic problems slowed the pace of development, and the governments laissez-faire policies mammoth, buffalo and reindeer. The capital may have been something of a slow starter,
did not help. Like most people in the region, Hungarians had unrealistically expected a however; the earliest evidence of human settlement in the greater Budapest area is the
much faster improvement in their living standards. remains of a Neanderthal hunting camp in the rd Valley to the southwest. Complete with
In the May 1994 elections the MSZP, led by Gyula Horn, won an absolute majority in tools, cutters and scrapers, the camp is thought to date back 50,000 years.
parliament. This in no way implied a return to the past, and Horn was quick to point out During the Ice Age, temperatures in the area rarely exceeded 15C even in the height of
that it was in fact his party that had initiated the whole reform process in the first place. (As summer. During the Neolithic period (around 5000 BC), a warming of the climate forced
foreign minister in 1989, Horn had played a key role in opening the border with Austria; much of the indigenous wildlife to migrate north. The domestication of animals and the
see p48) The following year, rpd Gncz of the SZDSZ was elected for a second five-year first forms of agriculture appeared, as they did in much of Central Europe. The first per-
term as president of the republic. manent settlement in this area on the Buda side near the Danube dates from between
4600 and 3900 BC. Remains from this culture, including bone utensils, fishing nets and
even a primitive loom, have been unearthed as far north as Bksmegyer and as far south
THE ROAD TO EUROPE as Nagyttny.
After its dire results in the 1994 elections, the Federation of Young Democrats (Fidesz) Indo-European tribes from the Balkans stormed the Carpathian Basin from the south
which until 1993 limited membership to those aged under 35 in order to emphasise a past in horse-drawn wheeled carts in about 2000 BC, bringing with them copper tools and
untainted by communism, privilege and corruption moved to the right and added MPP weapons. After the introduction of more durable bronze, forts were built and a military elite

TIMELINE AD 89596 1000 1222 124142

Nomadic Magyar tribes enter and settle in the Stephen (Istvn) is crowned Christian King of King Andrew II signs the Golden Bull, according the nobility Mongols sweep across the country, killing some 100,000 people in
Carpathian Basin Hungary on Christmas Day more rights and powers Pest and buda alone

34 35
 developed. The remains of several settle- By about 2000 BC, population growth had forced the Finnish-Estonian branch to move
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ments dating from this time have been un- west, ultimately reaching the Baltic Sea. The Ugrians moved from the southeastern slopes
covered on Csepel Island in the Danube. of the Urals into the valleys of the region, and switched from hunting and fishing to
Over the next millennium, invaders from farming and raising livestock, especially horses. Their equestrian skills proved useful half
the west (Illyrians and Thracians) and the a millennium later when more climatic changes brought drought, forcing them to move
east (Scythians) brought iron, but the metal north onto the steppes.
THIS IMAGE was not in common use until the Celts ar- On the grasslands, the Ugrians turned to nomadic herding. After 500 BC, by which
NOT AVAILABLE rived in the area in about the 3rd century
BC, settling at Bksmegyer and buda,
time the use of iron had become commonplace among the tribes, a group moved west to
the area of Bashkiria in Central Asia. Here they lived among Persians and Bulgars and
IN PICK & MIX which they called Ak Ink (Ample Water), began referring to themselves as Magyars (from the Finno-Ugric words mon to speak
and erecting one of their signature oppida and er man).
(palisaded settlements) on Gellrt Hill. The After several centuries, another group split away and moved south to the Don River
Celts introduced glass and crafted some of under the control of the Turkic Khazars. Here they lived among different groups under a
the fine gold jewellery that can still be seen in tribal alliance called onogur, or 10 peoples. This is thought to be the origin of the word
the Hungarian National Museum (p69). Hungary in English and (more obviously) Ungarn in German. The Magyars last migra-
History

History
Around the beginning of the Christian tion before the so-called honfoglals (conquest) of the Carpathian Basin brought them
era, the Romans conquered the area west to what modern Hungarians call the Etelkz, the region between the Dnieper and lower
of the Danube and established the province of Pannonia. Subsequent victories over the Danube Rivers north of the Black Sea.
Celts extended their domination, and the province was divided into Pannonia Superior and Nomadic groups of Magyars probably
FROM THE BEGINNING

FROM THE BEGINNING

Pannonia Inferior. The Romans brought writing, viticulture and stone architecture to the reached the Carpathian Basin as early as the
area, and at the end of the 1st century AD established Aquincum, a key military garrison mid-9th century AD, acting as mercenaries BLAME IT ON THE BIRD
and trading settlement along the Danube in todays buda. for various armies. It is believed that while The ancient Magyars were strong believers in magic
Aquincum (p59) became the administrative seat of Pannonia Inferior in AD 106 and a the men were away during one such cam- and celestial intervention, and the tltos (shaman)
fully fledged colony in 194. A fortress was built at Contra Aquincum in what is now V Mr- paign in about 889, a fierce people from the enjoyed an elevated position in their society. Certain
cius 15 tr (Map p224) in Pest and the proconsuls palace on a secure island in the Danube Asiatic steppe called the Pechenegs allied animals for example bears, stags and wolves
(now buda Island; Map pp2267). Villages nearby, such as Vindonianus (Bksmegyer) themselves with the Bulgars and attacked were totemic, and it was taboo to mention them
and Vicus Basoretensis (Kiscell), were populated by Celts, who were not granted Roman the Etelkz settlements. When they were directly by name. Thus the wolf was the long-tailed
citizenship. attacked again in about 895, seven tribes one and the stag the large-antlered one. In other
under the leadership of rpd the gyula cases the original Magyar for an animal deemed sac-
or chief military commander struck out red was replaced with a foreign loan word: medve for
THE GREAT MIGRATIONS for the Carpathian Basin. They crossed the bear comes from the Slavic medved.
The first of the so-called Great Migrations of nomadic peoples from Asia reached the east- Verecke Pass in todays Ukraine sometime No other ancient totemic animal was more scared
ern outposts of the Roman Empire in Dacia (now Romania) late in the 2nd century AD. between 896 and 898. than the turul, a hawklike bird that supposedly im-
Within two centuries, the Romans were forced by the Huns, whose short-lived empire was Five of the seven tribes settled in the area pregnated Emese, the grandmother of rpd. That
established by Attila, to flee Aquincum and abandon the rest of Pannonia. Aquincum of- that is now Budapest and the two princi- legend can be viewed in many ways: as an attempt to
fered little protection to the civilian population; in the late 430s, the Huns razed it. pal leaders of the tribes made their bases foster a sense of common origin and group identity
After the death of Attila in 453, Germanic tribes such as the Ostrogoths, Gepids and here. rpd established his seat on Csepel; in the ethnically heterogeneous population of the
Longobards (or Lombards) occupied the region for the next century and a half until the according to the chronicler Anonymous, time; as an effort to bestow a sacred origin on the
Avars, a powerful Turkic people, gained control of the Carpathian Basin in the late 6th it was rpds overseer, a Turkic Cuman House of rpd and its rule; or just as a good story
century. At first they settled on the Pest plains, but their chieftains soon established their called Csepel, who gave his name to the not dissimilar from the one about the Virgin Mary
main base at the northern end of Csepel Island. island. rpds brother, Kurszn, the chief begotten with child by the Holy Spirit anthropomor-
The Avars were overcome by Charlemagne in 796 and the area around Budapest and tltos (shaman), based himself in buda. phised as a dove.
the Danube Bend was incorporated into the Frankish empire. By that time, the Carpathian On Kurszns death, rpd took all power In the recent past, the fearsome-looking turul has
Basin was virtually unpopulated except for scattered groups of Turkic and Germanic tribes for himself and moved his seat to buda; been used as a symbol by the far right much to the
on the plains and Slavs in the northern hills. Buda and Pest were no more than small distress of average Hungarians, who simply look upon
villages. it as their heraldic eagle or lion.
The Magyars had met almost no resist-
THE MAGYARS & THE CONQUEST OF THE CARPATHIAN BASIN ance in the Carpathian Basin. Being highly
The origin of the Magyars, as the Hungarians call themselves, is a complicated issue, not skilled at riding and shooting (a common Christian prayer during the Dark Ages was Save
helped by the similarity (in English, at least) of the words Hun and Hungary, which are us, O Lord, from the arrows of the Hungarians), they began plundering and pillaging in
not related. One thing is certain: Magyars belong to the Finno-Ugric group of peoples, who all directions, taking slaves and amassing booty. Their raids took them as far as Spain,
inhabited the forests somewhere between the middle Volga River and the Ural Mountains northern Germany and southern Italy, but they were stopped at the Battle of Augsburg by
in western Siberia as early as 4000 BC. the German king Otto I in 955.
145890 1514 1526 1541
Medieval Hungary enjoys a golden age under the enlightened Peasant uprising is crushed, with 70,00 people including leader Hungary is defeated at the Battle of Mohcs; the Turkish Buda falls to the Ottomans; Hungary is partitioned and shared by
reign of King Matthias Corvinus Gyrgy Dzsa killed occupation lasting more than a century and a half begins the Turks, the Habsburgs and the Transylvanian princes

36 37
 This and subsequent defeats raids on Byzantium were ended in 970 left the Magyar
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tribes in disarray, and they had to choose between their more powerful neighbours to
form an alliance: Byzantium to the south and east or the Holy Roman Empire to the west.
Individual Magyar chieftains began acting independently, but in 973 Prince Gza, rpds
great-grandson, asked the Holy Roman emperor Otto II to send Catholic missionaries to
Hungary. Gza was baptised in his capital city, Esztergom, 46km upriver from Budapest, as
was his son Vajk, who took the Christian name Stephen (Istvn). When Gza died, Stephen
ruled as prince, but three years later was crowned Christian King Stephen I, on Christmas
Day in 1000, with a crown sent from Rome by Ottos erstwhile tutor, Pope Sylvester II.
THIS IMAGE
Hungary the kingdom and Hungary the nation had been born. NOT AVAILABLE
IN PICK & MIX
KING STEPHEN I & THE RPD DYNASTY
Stephen ruthlessly set about consolidating royal authority by expropriating the land of the
clan chieftains and establishing a system of megyek (counties) protected by vrok (fortified
History

History
castles). Much land was transferred to loyal (mostly Germanic) knights, and the crown began
minting coins. Stephen did not find the area of Budapest suitable as a base; he made his seat
at Szkesfehrvr, 66km to the southwest. Esztergom remained the religious centre.
Shrewdly, Stephen sought the support of the Church and, to hasten the conversion of
FROM THE BEGINNING

FROM THE BEGINNING

the populace, he ordered one in every 10 villages to build a church. He also established
10 episcopates throughout the land. Monasteries staffed by foreign scholars were set up here. He also ordered those still living in Pest and buda to relocate to Castle Hill and build
around the country; in buda it was the religious Chapter of Saint Peter. By the time of a fortified town there. Bla proclaimed Buda a municipality by royal charter in 1244 and
Stephens death in 1038 (he was canonised less than 50 years later), Hungary was a nas- bestowed civic rights on the citizens of Pest in 1255; another century would go by before
cent Christian nation. But pockets of rebellion remained; in 1046 a Venetian-born bishop budas citizens won the same rights. By the start of the 14th century, all three had begun
named Gerard (Gellrt in Hungarian), who had been brought to Hungary by Stephen to develop into major towns.
himself, was hurled to his death from a Buda hilltop in a spiked barrel by pagan Magyars But Bla did not always play his cards right. In a bid to appease the lesser nobility, he
resisting conversion. Gellrt Hill (Map p220) now bears the bishops name. handed over large tracts of land to the barons. This enhanced their position and bids for
The next two and a half centuries the reign of the House of rpd would further test more independence even further. At the time of Blas death in 1270, anarchy ruled. The
the new kingdom. The period was one of relentless struggles between rival pretenders to rpd line died out with the death of the heirless Andrew III in 1301.
the throne, which weakened the young nations defences against its more powerful neigh-
bours. There was a brief hiatus under King Ladislas I (Lszl; r 107795), who fended off
attacks from Byzantium, and under his successor Koloman the Bookish (Knyves Klmn), MEDIEVAL BUDAPEST
who encouraged literature, art and the writing of chronicles until his death in 1116. The struggle for the Hungarian throne after the death of Andrew III involved several
Tension flared again when the Byzantine emperor made a grab for Hungarys provinces European dynasties, but it was Charles Robert (Kroly Rbert) of the French House of
in Dalmatia and Croatia, which it had acquired by the early 12th century. He was stopped Anjou who finally won out (with the popes blessing) in 1307 and was crowned in Buda a
by Bla III (r 117296), who had a permanent residence built at Esztergom (by then an year later. He didnt stay there long though; until his death in 1342, Charles Robert ruled
alternative royal seat to Szkesfehrvr), but was headquartered at buda. Blas son from a palace he had built on the Danube at Visegrd, 42km to the northwest. Buda would
Andrew II (Andrs; r 120535), however, weakened the crown when he gave in to local not play a leading role in Hungarian history for another five decades, but after that it would
barons demands for more land in order to fund his crusades. This led to the Golden Bull, never look back. In the meantime, Pest had started to develop as a town of wealthy and inde-
a kind of Magna Carta signed at Szkesfehrvr in 1222, which limited some of the kings pendent burghers; by 1406 it had its own royal charter and full independence from Buda.
powers in favour of the nobility, recognised the Hungarian nation and allowed for a diet, Under Charles Roberts son and successor, Louis the Great (Nagy Lajos; r 134282), the
or assembly, of nobles to meet regularly in a meadow in Pest. It was during Andrews reign kingdom returned to a policy of conquest. A brilliant military strategist, Louis acquired
that buda grew from just a centrally located town to a royal and military seat. territory in the Balkans as far as Dalmatia and Romania and, through an alliance, as far
When Bla IV (r 123570) tried to regain the estates that Andrew had forfeited, the bar- north as Poland. But his successes were short-lived and the menace of the Ottoman Turks
ons were able to oppose him on equal terms. Fearing Mongol expansion and realising he increased.
could not count on local help, Bla looked to the west and brought in German and Slovak As Louis had no sons, one of his daughters, Mary (Mria), succeeded him. This was
settlers. In March 1241 Bla amassed his troops at buda and crossed over into Pest. But deemed to be unacceptable by the barons, who rose up against the petticoat throne. Within
his efforts were in vain. The Mongols, who had raced through the country as easily as the a short time, Marys husband, Sigismund (Zsigmond; r 13871437) of Luxembourg, was
Magyars had conquered the Carpathian Basin some 2 centuries before, attacked from crowned king. Sigismunds long reign brought peace at home, and there was a great flower-
every direction. By the end of the final attack in January 1242, Pest and buda had been ing of Gothic art and architecture. Sigismund enlarged the Royal Palace on Castle Hill,
burned to the ground and some 100,000 people killed. founded a university at buda (1389), oversaw the construction of the first pontoon bridge
To rebuild the nascent royal capital as quickly as possible after the Mongol retreat, Bla, over the Danube (until then the only way to cross the river was by ferry) and set national
known as the second founding father, again encouraged Germans and Saxons to settle standards of measurement, including the Buda pound (490g) for weight and the Buda icce
1686 1699 170311 184849
Austrian and Hungarian forces liberate Buda from the Turks with Last Turks are driven from Hungarian soil by Eugene of Savoy Ferenc Rkczi II fights and loses a war of independence against War of Independence; Lajos Batthyny and 13 of his generals are
the help of the Polish army the Habsburgs executed for their role

38 39
 (about 0.85L) for liquids. But despite these advances and his enthronement as Holy Roman
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emperor in 1433, he was unable to stop the march of the Turks up through the Balkans. TOP FIVE HISTORY BOOKS
A Transylvanian general born of a Wallachian (Romanian) soldier, Jnos Hunyadi began
his career at the court of Sigismund. When Vladislav I (lszl) of the Polish Jagiellon dy- An Illustrated History of Budapest (Gza Buzinkay, 1998) This large, illustrated and somewhat lightweight tome
nasty was killed fighting the Turks at Varna (now Bulgaria), Hunyadi was declared regent. is an easy entry to the complicated history of the Hungarian capital.
His victory over the Turks at Belgrade (Hungarian: Nndorfehrvr) in 1456 checked the Budapest 1900: A Historical Portrait of a City and Its Culture (John Lukacs, 1990) This classic is an illustrated social
Ottoman advance into Hungary for 70 years and assured the coronation of his son Matthias history of the capital at the height of its fin-de-sicle glory.
(Mtys), the greatest ruler of medieval Hungary. The Siege of Budapest: 100 Days in WWII (Kriztin Ungvry, 2005) Ungvry examines the battle to capture a major
Matthias, nicknamed the Raven (Corvinus) from his coat of arms, ruled from 1458 to European capital often overlooked in favour of Warsaw or Berlin.
1490. Wisely, he maintained a mercenary force of up to 10,000 soldiers through taxation of In the Name of the Working Class: The Inside Story of the Hungarian Revolution (Sndor Kopsci, 1987) Though hard
the nobility, and this Black Army (one of the first standing armies in Europe) conquered to find, this is a very readable account of the events leading to the 1956 Uprising revolution by Budapests then
Moravia, Bohemia and even parts of Austria. Not only did Matthias Corvinus make Hun- chief of police, Sndor Kopsci, who was imprisoned, given amnesty in 1963 and emigrated to Canada in 1975.
gary one of Central Europes leading powers, but under his rule Buda enjoyed something Ballad of the Whiskey Robber (Julian Rubinstein, 2005) A rollicking rollercoaster ride of a read, telling the almost
of a golden age and for the first time became the true focus of the nation. His second wife, unbelievable story of one Attila Ambrus, who takes up bank robbing when not playing professional ice hockey. Its
Beatrice, the daughter of the king of Naples, brought artisans from Italy who completely a true-to-life portrait of what was (and we experienced) the Wild East of Budapest in the early 1990s.
History

History
rebuilt, extended and fortified the Royal Palace; the beauty and sheer size of the residence
astonished visitors, and its royal library of more than 2000 codices and incunabula became
a major cultural and artistic centre of Renaissance Europe. had so desperately sought. As would be the case as late as the mid-20th century, greed,
But while Matthias busied himself with centralising power for the crown in the capital, he self-interest and over-ambition had led Hungary to defeat itself.
FROM THE BEGINNING

FROM THE BEGINNING

ignored the growing Turkish threat. His successor Vladislav II (lszl; r 14901516) was After the Turks returned and occupied Buda in 1541, Hungary was divided into three
unable to maintain even royal authority as the members of the diet, which met to approve parts. The central section, with Buda Budun to the Turks as the provincial seat, went
royal decrees, squandered royal funds, sold off the royal library and expropriated land. to the Ottomans while parts of Transdanubia and what is now Slovakia were governed by
In May 1514, what had begun as a crusade organised by the power-hungry archbishop of the Austrian House of Habsburg and assisted by the Hungarian nobility based at Bratislava
Esztergom, Tams Bakcz, turned into an uprising against the landlords by peasants who (Hungarian: Pozsony). The principality of Transylvania east of the Tisza River prospered as
rallied near Pest under their leader, Gyrgy Dzsa. a vassal state of the Ottoman Empire. This division of the country would remain in place
The revolt was brutally repressed, some 70,000 peasants were tortured and executed, and for almost a century and a half.
Dzsa himself was fried alive on a red-hot iron throne. The retrograde Tripartitum Law that The Turkish occupation was marked by constant fighting among the three divisions:
followed in 1522 codified the rights and privileges of the barons and nobles, reduced the Catholic Royal Hungary was pitted not only against the Muslim Turks but the Protes-
peasants to perpetual serfdom and banned them from bearing arms. By the time Louis II tant Transylvanian princes as well. Although Habsburg Hungary enjoyed something of a
(Lajos) took the throne in 1516 at the tender age of nine, he couldnt rely on either side. cultural renaissance during this period, the Turkish-occupied part and Buda itself suffered
greatly, with many people fleeing the town to Pest, where some churches remained. The
Turks did little building in Buda apart from a few bathhouses, dervish monasteries and
THE BATTLE OF MOHCS & TURKISH OCCUPATION tombs and city walls; for the most part, they used existing civic buildings for administration
The defeat of Louis ragtag army by the Ottoman Turks at Mohcs in 1526 is a watershed and converted churches into mosques. Matthias Church (p55) on Castle Hill, for example,
in Hungarian history. On the battlefield near this small town in Southern Transdanubia, was hastily converted into the Byk Cami, or Great Mosque, and the heart of the Royal
some 195km south of Budapest, a relatively prosperous and independent Hungary died, Palace became a gunpowder store and magazine. In 1578 lightning struck and much of the
sending the nation into a tailspin of partition, foreign domination and despair that in some Danube wing was reduced to rubble.
respects can still be felt today. Turkish power began to wane in the 17th century, and with the help of the Polish army, some
It would be unfair to put all the blame on the weak and indecisive boy-king Louis or 45,000 Austrian and Hungarian forces advanced down both banks of the Danube from t-
on his commander-in-chief Pl Tomori, the archbishop of Kalocsa. Bickering among the rovo (Hungarian: Prkny), now in Slovakia, to liberate Buda in 1686. An imperial army under
nobility and the brutal crackdown of the Dzsa uprising a dozen years earlier had severely Eugene of Savoy wiped out the last Turkish army in Hungary at the Battle of Zenta (now Senta
weakened Hungarys military power, and there was virtually nothing left in the royal cof- in Serbia) 11 years later. Peace was signed with the Turks at Karlowitz (Serbia) in 1699.
fers. By 1526, Ottoman sultan Suleiman the Magnificent (r 152066) had taken much of
the Balkans, including Belgrade, and was poised to march on Buda with a force of some
80,000 men. HABSBURG RULE
Unable or unwilling to wait for reinforcements from Transylvania under the com- The expulsion of the Turks did not result in a free and independent Hungary. Buda and
mand of his rival John Szapolyai (Zpolyai Jnos), Louis rushed from Buda with a motley the rest of the country were under military occupation and governed from Bratislava, and
army of 26,000 men of mixed nationalities to battle the Turks and was soundly thrashed in the policies of the Catholic Habsburgs Counter-Reformation and heavy taxation further
less than two hours. Along with bishops, nobles and an estimated 20,000 soldiers, the king alienated the nobility. In 1703 the very year in which both Buda and Pest regained their
himself was killed crushed by his horse while trying to retreat across a stream. privileges as royal free towns the Transylvanian prince Ferenc Rkczi II raised an army of
The Turks then turned north, sacking and burning Buda before retreating. John Sza- kuruc (Hungarian mercenaries) against the Habsburgs. The war dragged on for eight years,
polyai, who had sat out the battle in the castle at Tokaj, was crowned king three months during which time the rebels deposed the Austrians as rulers of Hungary. But superior
later but, despite grovelling before the Turks, he was never able to exploit the power he imperial forces and lack of funds forced the kuruc forces to negotiate a separate peace with
1867 1896 1918 1920
Act of Compromise creates Dual Monarchy of Austria (the empire), Millennium of the Magyar conquest of the Carpathian Basin is Austria-Hungary loses WWI in November and the political Treaty of Trianon carves up much of central Europe, reducing
based in Vienna, and Hungary (the kingdom), seat in Budapest marked by a six-month exhibition in City Park system collapses; Hungary declares itself a republic historical Hungary by almost two-thirds

40 41
 Liberalism and social reform found their greatest supporters among certain members of
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COUNT OF ALL KNOWLEDGE the aristocracy in Pest. A prime example was Count Istvn Szchenyi (17911860), a true
Renaissance man (see boxed text, opposite) who advocated the abolition of serfdom and
The contributions that Count Istvn Szchenyi made to Hungary were enormous and extremely varied. In his seminal returned much of his own land to the peasantry, proposed the first permanent link between
1830 work Hitel (meaning credit and based on hit, or trust), he advocated sweeping economic reforms and the Buda and Pest (Chain Bridge) and oversaw the regulation of the Danube as much for com-
abolition of serfdom (he himself had distributed the bulk of his property to landless peasants two years earlier). The merce and irrigation as for safety; the devastating Danube flood of 1838 had taken a heavy
Chain Bridge, the design of which Szchenyi helped push through parliament, was the first permanent link between toll, with three-quarters of the homes in Pest washed away and some 150 people drowned.
Buda and Pest and for the first time everyone nobles included had to pay a toll. The proponents of gradual reform were quickly superseded, however, by a more radi-
Szchenyi was instrumental in straightening the serpentine Tisza River, which rescued half of Hungarys arable cal faction demanding more immediate action. The group included such men as Mikls
land from flooding and erosion, and his work made the Danube navigable as far as the Iron Gates in Romania. He Wesselnyi, Ferenc Dek and the poet Ferenc Klcsey, but the predominant figure was Lajos
arranged the financing for Hungarys first train lines from Budapest north and east to Vc and Szolnok and west to Kossuth (180294). It was this dynamic lawyer and journalist who would lead Hungary to
Bcsu (now Wiener Neustadt in Austria) and launched the first steam transport on the Danube and Lake Balaton. its greatest ever confrontation with the Habsburgs.
A lover of all things English, Szchenyi got the upper classes interested in horse racing with the express purpose of
improving breeding stock for farming. A large financial contribution made by Szchenyi led to the establishment of
the nations prestigious Academy of Science. THE 184849 WAR OF INDEPENDENCE
History

History
Szchenyi joined the revolutionary government in 1848, but political squabbling and open conflict with Vienna The Habsburg empire began to weaken as Hungarian nationalism increased early in the
caused him to lose control and he suffered a nervous breakdown. Despite a decade of convalescence in an asylum, 19th century. The Hungarians, suspicious of Napoleons policies, ignored appeals by France
Szchenyi never fully recovered and tragically he took his own life in 1860. to revolt against Vienna, and certain reforms were introduced: the replacement of Latin, the
For all his accomplishments, Szchenyis contemporary and fellow reformer, Lajos Kossuth, called him the greatest official language of administration, with Hungarian; a law allowing serfs alternative means
Hungarian. This dynamic but troubled visionary retains that accolade to this day.
FROM THE BEGINNING

FROM THE BEGINNING

of discharging their feudal obligations of service; and increased Hungarian representation
in the Council of State in Vienna.
The reforms carried out were too limited and far too late, however, and the diet became
Vienna behind Rkczis back. The 170311 War of Independence had failed, but Rkczi more defiant in its dealings with the crown. At the same time, the wave of revolution
was the first leader to unite Hungarians against the Habsburgs. sweeping Europe spurred on the more radical faction. On 3 March 1848 Kossuth, who had
Though the compromise had brought the fighting to an end, Hungary was now a mere been imprisoned by the Habsburgs at I Tncsics Mihly utca 9 (Map p220) on Castle Hill
province of the Habsburg empire. Its main cities Buda, Pest and buda counted a total for three years (183740), made a fiery speech in parliament demanding an end to feudal-
of just over 12,000 people. With the ascension of Maria Theresa to the throne in 1740, the ism. On 15 March a group calling itself Mrciusi Ifjsg (Youth of March) led by the poet
Hungarian nobility pledged their lives and blood to her at the diet in Bratislava in exchange Sndor Petfi, who read out his poem Nemzeti Dal (National Song) on the steps of the
for concessions. Thus began the period of enlightened absolutism that would continue Hungarian National Museum (p69), took to the streets of Pest with hastily printed copies
under her son, the hatted king (so-called as he was never crowned in Hungary) Joseph II, of their Twelve Points to press for radical reforms and even revolution.
who ruled for a decade from 1780. By then the population of Buda and Pest had risen to The frightened government in Vienna quickly approved plans for a new Hungarian min-
almost 35,000 a significant number, even in the sprawling Habsburg empire. istry responsible to the diet, led by the liberal Lajos Batthyny and to include Dek, Kossuth
Under the reigns of Maria Theresa and Joseph, Hungary took great steps forward eco- and Szchenyi. The Habsburgs also reluctantly agreed to abolish serfdom and proclaim
nomically and culturally, though the first real moves towards integration with Austria had equality under the law. But the diet voted to raise a local army, testing Habsburg patience.
also begun. Buda effectively became the German-speaking town of Ofen and the citys first During September 1848, Habsburg forces under the governor of Croatia, Josip Jelai,
newspaper in German, of course was established in 1730. Funded by the grain and launched an attack on Hungary and Batthyny resigned from government. Pest and Buda
livestock trades, Pest began to develop outside the city walls. In 1749 the foundations for a fell to the Austrian army in the following spring, and the Hungarians hastily formed a na-
new palace were laid in Buda, the university was moved from Nagyszombat (now Trnava tional defence commission and moved the government seat from Pest to Debrecen, where
in Slovakia) to Buda in 1777 and seven years later Joseph ordered the government to move Kossuth was elected leader. The parliament declared Hungarys full independence and the
from Bratislava to Buda, the nations new administrative centre. dethronement of the Habsburgs for the second time.
Josephs attempts to modernise society by dissolving the all-powerful (and corrupt) mo- The new Habsburg emperor, Franz Joseph (r 18481916), was not at all like his feeble-
nastic orders, abolishing serfdom and replacing neutral Latin with German as the official minded predecessor, Ferdinand V, and quickly took action. He sought the assistance of
language of state administration (178185) were opposed by the Hungarian nobility, and Russian tsar Nicholas I, who obliged with 200,000 troops. Support for the revolution was
the king rescinded some of these reforms on his deathbed, but not the ones pertaining to already crumbling, however, particularly in areas of mixed population where the Magyars
freedom of religion and the serfs. were seen as oppressors. Weak and vastly outnumbered, the rebel troops were defeated by
Dissenting voices could still be heard, and the ideals of the French Revolution of 1789 August 1849 and martial law was declared.
began to take root in certain intellectual circles in Budapest. In 1795 Ignc Martonovics, a A series of brutal reprisals ensued. Summary executions of spies (mostly simple army
former Franciscan priest, and six other prorepublican Jacobins were beheaded at Vrmez deserters) took place in the gardens of the National Museum. Batthyny was executed in
(Blood Meadow; Map p220) in Buda for plotting against the crown. Pest, 13 of his generals (the so-called Martyrs of Arad) were incarcerated and shot in Ro-
By 1800 Pest, with a population of about 30,000, was the nations most important com- mania and Kossuth went into exile in Turkey. (Petfi had been killed in battle.) Habsburg
mercial centre while Buda, with 24,000 people, remained a royal garrison town and devel- troops then went around the country systematically blowing up castles and fortifications lest
oped under the eye of the monarch. But 90% of the national population worked the land, they be used by resurgent rebels. What little of medieval Buda and Pest that had remained
and it was primarily through agriculture that modernisation would come to Hungary. after the Turks and the 170311 War of Independence was now reduced to rubble.
1941 1944 1945 1949
Hungary joins the Axis led by Germany and Italy against the Allies Germany invades and occupies Hungary; most Hungarian Jews are Budapest is liberated by the Soviet army in April, a month Communists are in full control; Hungary is declared a Peoples
in WWII deported to Nazi concentration camps before full victory in Europe Republic

42 43
 THE DUAL MONARCHY November 1918, the fate of the Dual Monarchy (and Hungary as a multinational kingdom)
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was sealed.
Hungary was again merged into the Habsburg empire as a vanquished province and neo-
A republic under the leadership of Count Mihly Krolyi was set up in Budapest im-
absolutism was the order of the day. Hungarian war prisoners were forced to build the
mediately after the war, and the Habsburg monarchy was dethroned for the third and final
Citadella (p56) atop Gellrt Hill to defend the city from further insurrection, but by the
time. But the fledgling republic would not last long. Widespread destitution, the occupa-
time it was ready in 1854 the political climate had changed and the fortress had become
tion of Hungary by the Allies, and the success of the Bolshevik Revolution in Russia had
obsolete. Passive resistance among Hungarians and disastrous military defeats by Prussia
radicalised much of the working class in Budapest.
in 1859 and 1866 pushed Franz Joseph to the negotiating table with liberal Hungarians
In March 1919 a group of Hungarian communists under a former Transylvanian journal-
under Deks leadership.
ist called Bla Kun seized power. The so-called Tancskztrsasg (Republic of Councils)
The result was the Compromise of 1867 (Ausgleich in German, which actually means
set out to nationalise industry and private property and build a fairer society, but mass op-
balance or reconciliation), which created the Dual Monarchy of Austria (the empire)
position to the regime unleashed a reign of red terror in Budapest and around the country.
and Hungary (the kingdom). It was a federated state of two parliaments and two capitals
In August Romanian troops occupied the capital, and Kun and his comrades (including
Vienna and Budapest (the result of the union of Buda, Pest and buda six years later).
Minister of Culture Bla Lugosi, later of Dracula fame) fled to Vienna. The Romanians
Only defence, foreign relations and customs were shared. Hungary was even allowed to
camped out at Oktogon, taking whatever they wanted when they wanted it, and left the
raise a small army.
city in November just ahead of Admiral Mikls Horthy, the hero of the Battle of Rijeka,
History

History
This Age of Dualism would carry on until 1918 and spark an economic, cultural and in-
mounted on a white stallion and leading 25,000 Hungarian troops into what he called the
tellectual rebirth in Budapest a golden age the likes of which the city has never seen again.
bns vros (sinful city).
Trade and industry boomed, factories were established and the composers Franz (Ferenc)
Liszt and Ferenc Erkel were making beautiful music. The middle class dominated by
Germans and Jews in Pest burgeoned, and the capital entered into a frenzy of building. THE HORTHY YEARS & WWII
FROM THE BEGINNING

FROM THE BEGINNING

Much of what you will see in Budapest today from the grand boulevards and their In the nations first-ever election by secret ballot (March 1920), parliament chose a kingdom
Eclectic-style apartment blocks to the Parliament building, State Opera House and Palace as the form of state and lacking a king elected as its regent Horthy, who remained in that
of Art was built at this time. The apex position until the penultimate year of WWII. The arrangement confused even US president
of this belle poque was the six-month ex- Franklin D Roosevelt in the early days of the war. After being briefed by an aide on the gov-
hibition in 1896 in City Park, celebrating ernment and leadership of Hungary, he reportedly said: Let me see if I understand you right.
the millennium of the Magyar conquest of Hungary is a kingdom without a king run by a regent whos an admiral without a navy?
the Carpathian Basin. A small replica of Vaj- Horthy embarked on a white terror every bit as brutal as the red one of Bla Kun
dahunyad Castle in Transylvania, but with that attacked Jews, social democrats and communists for their roles in supporting the Repub-
Gothic, Romanesque and baroque wings lic of Councils. As the regime was consolidated, it showed itself to be extremely rightist and
THIS IMAGE and additions to reflect architectural styles
from all over the country, was built to house
conservative, advocating the status quo and traditional values family, State and religion.
NOT AVAILABLE the exhibits (it now houses the Hungarian
Though the country had the remnants of a parliamentary system, Horthy was all-powerful,
and very few reforms were enacted. On the contrary, the lot of the working class and the
IN PICK & MIX Agricultural Museum; p72). Around four peasantry worsened.
million visitors from Hungary and abroad One thing everyone agreed on was that the return of the territories lost through the
were transported to the fairground on Con- Treaty of Trianon (see boxed text, p46) was essential for national development. Budapest
tinental Europes first underground railway was swollen with ethnic Hungarian refugees from Romania, Czechoslovakia and the newly
(now the M1 or little yellow line). By the formed Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes, unemployment skyrocketed and the
turn of the 20th century the population of economy was at a standstill. Hungary obviously could not count on the victors France,
the new capital jumped from about 280,000 Britain and the USA to help recoup its land; instead, it would have to seek help from the
at the time of the Compromise to 750,000, fascist governments of Germany and Italy.
Europes sixth-largest city. Hungarys move to the right intensified throughout the 1930s, though it remained silent
But all was not well in the capital. The city-based working class had almost no rights when WWII broke out in September 1939. Horthy hoped an alliance would not mean
and the situation in the countryside was almost as dire as it had been in the Middle Ages. actually having to enter the war but, after recovering northern Transylvania and part of
Minorities under Hungarian control Czechs, Slovaks, Croats and Romanians were Croatia with Germanys help, he was forced to join the Axis in June 1941. The war was
under increased pressure to Magyarise and viewed their new rulers as oppressors. Increas- just as disastrous for Hungary as the 191418 one had been, and hundreds of thousands
ingly they worked to dismember the empire. of Hungarian troops died while retreating from Stalingrad, where theyd been used as can-
non fodder. Realising too late that his country was again on the losing side, Horthy began
negotiating a separate peace with the Allies.
WWI & THE REPUBLIC OF COUNCILS When Hitler caught wind of this in March 1944 he sent in his army, with Adolf Eichmann
In July 1914, a month to the day after Archduke Franz Ferdinand, the heir to the Habsburg in command from the Buda Hills and the Wehrmacht billeted in the Astoria Hotel. Under
throne, was assassinated by a Bosnian Serb in Sarajevo, Austria-Hungary entered WWI pressure, Horthy installed Ferenc Szlasi, the leader of the pro-Nazi Arrow Cross Party, as
allied with the German empire. The result of this action was disastrous, with heavy destruc- prime minister in October and the regent was deported to Germany and later found exile
tion and hundreds of thousands killed on the Russian and Italian fronts. At the Armistice in in Portugal, where he died in 1957.
1956 1958 1968 1988
Hungary is in revolution after riots in October; Jnos Kdr is Imre Nagy and others are executed by the communist regime for Plans for a liberalised economy are introduced but rejected as Jnos Kdr is forced to retire in May after more than three decades
installed as leader their role in the uprising too liberal by conservatives in power

44 45
 The Arrow Cross Party moved quickly and all produce had to be delivered to state warehouses. A network of spies and informers
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NEM, NEM, SOHA! to quash any opposition, and thousands of exposed class enemies such as Cardinal Jzsef Mindszenty (see p67) to the secret police,
the countrys liberal politicians and labour the VO (or VH after 1949), who interrogated them at their headquarters at VI Andrssy
In June 1920, scarcely a year and a half after the Ar- leaders were arrested. At the same time, its t 60 (now the House of Terror; p71) in Pest and sent them to trial at the then Military
mistice was signed ending WWI, the victorious Allies puppet government introduced anti-Jewish Court of Justice on II F utca (Map pp21819) in Buda. Some were executed; many more
drew up a postwar settlement under the Treaty of legislation similar to that in Germany, and were sent into internal exile or condemned to labour camps like the notorious one at Recsk
Trianon at Versailles, near Paris, that enlarged some Jews, who were relatively safe under Hor- in the Mtra Hills to the east. It is estimated that at some stage during this period a quarter
countries, truncated others and created several suc- thy, were rounded up into ghettos by Hun- of the adult population of Budapest faced police or judicial proceedings.
cessor states. As one of the defeated enemy nations garian pro-Nazis. During the summer of Bitter feuding within the party began, and purges and Stalinesque show trials became the
and with large numbers of minorities clamouring 1944, less than a year 10 months! before order of the day. Lszl Rajk, the Communist minister of the interior (which also control-
for independence within its borders, Hungary stood the war ended, approximately 430,000 Hun- led the VH), was arrested and later executed for Titoism; his successor Jnos Kdr was
to lose more than most. And so it did. The nation garian Jewish men, women and children jailed and tortured. In August 1949, the nation was proclaimed the Peoples Republic of
was reduced to 40% of its historical size and, while were deported to Auschwitz and other la- Hungary. In the years that followed among the darkest and bleakest in Budapests his-
it was now a largely homogeneous country, for mil- bour camps in just over eight weeks, where tory apartment blocks, small businesses and retail outlets were expropriated by the state
lions of ethnic Hungarians in Romania, Yugoslavia they either starved to death, succumbed to and new cultural and sports facilities, including Npstadion, or Peoples Stadium (now the
History

History
and Czechoslovakia, the tables had been turned: they disease or were brutally murdered by the Ferenc Pusks Stadium), were built.
were now in the minority. German fascists and their unsayable hench- After the death of Stalin in March 1953 and Khrushchevs denunciation of him three
Trianon became the singularly most hated word men. Many of the Jews who did survive years later, Rkosis tenure was up and the terror began to abate. Under pressure from
in Hungary and Nem, Nem, Soha! (No, No, Never!) the owed their lives to Raoul Wallenberg, a within the party, Rkosis successor, Ern Ger, rehabilitated Rajk posthumously and re-
rallying cry during the interwar years. The dikttum is
FROM THE BEGINNING

FROM THE BEGINNING

Budapest-based Swedish diplomat (p68) admitted Nagy, who had been expelled from the party a year earlier for suggesting reforms.
often reviled today as if it were imposed on the nation and the Swiss consul, Carl Lutz. But Ger was ultimately as much a hardliner as Rkosi had been and, by October 1956
yesterday. Many of the problems it created remained Budapest now became an international during Rajks reburial, murmured calls for a real reform of the system Socialism with a
in place for decades, and it has coloured Hungarys battleground for the first time since the human face could already be heard.
relations with its neighbours for more than 80 years. Turkish occupation, and the bombs began
falling everywhere particularly around
Castle Hill and, in Pest, in the northern THE 1956 UPRISING
and eastern districts of Angyalfld and Zugl, where there were munitions factories. The nations greatest tragedy an event that for a while shook the world, rocked inter-
The resistance movement drew support from many sides, including the communists, national communism and pitted Hungarian against Hungarian began in Budapest on
and by Christmas 1944 the Soviet army had surrounded Budapest. When the Germans 23 October when some 50,000 university students assembled at II Bem Jzsef tr (Map
and Hungarian Nazis rejected a settlement, the siege of the capital began. By the time the pp21819) in Buda, shouting anti-Soviet slogans and demanding that Nagy be named
German war machine had surrendered in April 1945, three-quarters of the citys homes, prime minister. That night a crowd pulled down and sawed into pieces the colossal statue
historical buildings and churches had been severely damaged or destroyed. Some 20,000 of Jzsef Sztlin on Dzsa Gyrgy t on the edge of Vrosliget (City Park; Map pp21819)
Hungarian soldiers and 25,000 civilians of Budapest had been killed. As their goodbye and shots were fired by VH agents on another group gathering outside the headquarters
gift, the vindictive Germans blew up Buda Castle and knocked out every bridge span- of Hungarian Radio (Map p222) on VIII Brdy Sndor utca in Pest. In the blink of an eye,
ning the Danube. Budapest was in revolution.
The next day Nagy formed a government while Jnos Kdr was named president of
the Central Committee of the Hungarian Workers Party. For a short time it appeared that
THE PEOPLES REPUBLIC Nagy might be successful in transforming Hungary into a neutral, multiparty state. On
When free parliamentary elections were held in November 1945, the Independent Small- 28 October the government offered an amnesty to all those involved in the violence and
holders Party received 57% (or 245 seats) of the vote. But Soviet political officers, backed by promised to abolish the VH. On 31 October hundreds of political prisoners were released,
the occupying Soviet army, forced three other parties the Communists, Social Democrats and widespread reprisals against VH agents began. The following day Nagy announced
and National Peasants into a coalition. Limited democracy prevailed, and land-reform that Hungary would leave the Warsaw Pact and decree its neutrality.
laws, sponsored by the Communist minister of agriculture, Imre Nagy, were enacted, wiping At this, Soviet tanks and troops crossed into Hungary and within 72 hours began attack-
away the prewar feudal structure. Budapest experienced the worst hyperinflation the world ing Budapest and other centres. Kdr, who had slipped away ratlike from Budapest to join
has ever known at this time, with notes worth up to 10,000 trillion peng issued before the the Russian invaders, was installed as leader.
forint was introduced. Still, Independence Bridge, the first of the spans over the Danube Fierce street fighting continued for several days fighting was especially heavy in and
to be rebuilt, reopened in 1946. around the Corvin Film Palace (p133), VIII Jzsef krt and the nearby Kilin army barracks
Within a couple of years, the Communists were ready to take complete control. After opposite on IX lli t in Pest, and II Szna tr (Map pp21819) in Buda encouraged by
a rigged election held under a complicated new electoral law in 1947, they declared their Radio Free Europe broadcasts and disingenuous promises of support from the West, which
candidate, Mtys Rkosi, victorious. The Social Democrats were forced to merge with the was embroiled in the Suez Canal crisis at the time. When the fighting was over, 25,000
Communists into the Hungarian Socialist Workers Party. people were dead. Then the reprisals the worst in the citys history began. An estimated
In 1948 Rkosi, a big fan of Stalin, began a process of nationalisation and unfeasibly fast 20,000 people were arrested and 2000 including Imre Nagy in 1958 and his associates
industrialisation at the expense of agriculture. Peasants were forced into collective farms, were executed. Another 250,000 refugees fled to Austria. The government lost what little
1989 1990 1991 1994
Communist monopoly on power is relinquished; Imre Nagy is Hungarian Democratic Forum wins first free elections in 43 years; rpd Last Soviet troops leave Hungarian soil in June Socialists win general election and form a government for the first
reburied in Budapest; Republic of Hungary is declared Gncz elected first president and Gbor Demszky as mayor of Budapest time since the changes of 1989

46 47
 Lonely Planet Publications
credibility it had and the city many of its most competent and talented citizens. As for the
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physical scars, just look around you in some of the older parts of Pest: the bullet holes and
shrapnel damage on the exterior walls still cry out in silent fury.

HUNGARY UNDER KDR

The transformation of Jnos Kdr from traitor and most hated man in the land to re-
spected reformer is one of the most astonishing tour de force of the 20th century. No doubt
it will keep historians busy well into the next.
After the revolt, the ruling party was reorganised as the Hungarian Socialist Workers
Party, and Kdr, now both party president and premier, launched a programme to liber-
alise the social and economic structure based on compromise. (His most quoted line was
Whoever is not against us is with us a reversal of the Stalinist adage that stated Those
not with us are against us.) In 1968 he and the economist Rezs Nyers unveiled the New
Economic Mechanism (NEM) to introduce elements of a market to the planned economy.
History

But even this proved too daring for many party conservatives. Nyers was ousted and the
NEM whittled back.
Kdr managed to survive that power struggle unscathed and went on to introduce
greater consumerism and market socialism. By the mid-1970s Hungary was light years
FROM THE BEGINNING

ahead of any other Soviet-bloc country in its standard of living, freedom of movement and
opportunities to criticise (softly) the government. Budapesters may have had to wait seven
years for a Lada car or 12 for a telephone, but most could at least enjoy access to a second
house in the countryside and a decent material life. The Hungarian model attracted much
Western attention and investment.
But things began to sour in the 1980s. The Kdr system of goulash socialism, which
had seemed timeless and everlasting as one Hungarian writer has put it, was incapable of
dealing with such unsocialist problems as unemployment, soaring inflation and the largest
per-capita foreign debt in Eastern Europe. Kdr and the old guard refused to hear talk
about party reforms. In June 1987 Kroly Grsz took over as premier, and in May 1988
Kdr was booted out of the party and forced to retire. He died the following year.

THE END OF AN ERA

A group of reformers among them Nyers, Imre Pozsgay, Mikls Nmeth and Gyula
Horn took charge. Party conservatives at first put a lid on any real change by demand-
ing a retreat from political liberalisation in exchange for their support of the new regimes
economic policies. But the tide had turned and there was no stopping it.
Throughout the summer and autumn of 1988, new political parties were formed and
old ones revived. In January 1989 Pozsgay, second-guessing what was to come as Mikhail
Gorbachev kissed babies and launched his reforms in the Soviet Union, announced that
the events of 1956 had been a popular insurrection and not the counter-revolution that
the regime had always said it was. In June 1989 some 250,000 people attended ceremonies
marking the reburial of Imre Nagy and other victims of 1956 in Budapest. Towards the end
of the year the communists agreed to give up their monopoly on power, paving the way
for free elections in spring 1990.
In July 1989, again at Pozsgays instigation, Hungary began to demolish the electrified
wire fence separating it from Austria. The move released a wave of East Germans holiday-
ing in Hungary into the West and the opening attracted thousands more. The collapse of
the communist regimes around the region was now unstoppable. What Hungarians call az
tkos 40 v, the accursed 40 years of sham, drudgery and broken dreams, had come to a
withering, almost feeble, end. Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
1999 2004 everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
Hungary becomes a fully fledged member of NATO Hungary is admitted to the EU
the above - Do the right thing with our content.
48 49
 Lonely Planet Publications

Sights

Itineraries 51
Organised Tours 51
Buda 53
Castle Hill 53
Gellrt Hill & the Tabn 56
Vzivros 58
buda & Aquincum 59
Buda Hills 61
Outer Buda Districts 62
Margaret Island 62
Pest 63
Inner Town 63
Northern Inner Town 64
Szent Istvn Krt & Terzvros 67
Erzsbetvros 68
Jzsefvros & Ferencvros 69
Andrssy t 70
City Park 72
Outer Pest Districts 74
48
 Sights
Buda, on the other hand, is dominated by Castle and Gellrt Hills; the main square on

www.lonelyplanet.com
this side is Moszkva tr. Important roads are Margit krt (the only part of either ring road
to cross the river), F utca and Attila t on either side of Castle Hill, and Hegyalja t and
Bartk Bla t running west and southwest.
Budapest is divided into 23 kerlet, or districts, which usually also have traditional names
such as Liptvros (Leopold Town) in district XIII or Vzivros (Watertown) in district I.
Budapest spreads over 525 sq km. Its borders are Csepel Island in the Danube River to the The Roman numeral appearing before each street address signifies the district.
south, the start of the Danube Bend to the north, the Buda Hills to the west and the start of the
Great Plain to the east. With few exceptions (the Buda Hills, City Park and some excursions),
however, the areas beyond the Nagykrt (literally the Big Ring Road) in Pest and west of
Moszkva tr in Buda are residential or industrial and of little interest to visitors. It is a well laid-
ITINERARIES
If you want a general overview of Budapest before striking out on your own, take one of
out city, so much so that it is difficult to get lost here. For more information see page p182. the tours described in this chapter (below). At least youll be sure to see the highlights even
If you look at a map of Budapest youll see that two ring roads Nagykrt and the on a very brief visit.
semicircular Kiskrt (the Little Ring Road) more or less link all of the most important
bridges across the Danube and define central Pest. The Nagykrt consists of the contigu-
ous Szent Istvn krt, Terz krt, Erzsbet krt, Jzsef krt and Ferenc krt. The One Day
Kiskrt comprises Kroly krt, Mzeum krt and Vmhz krt. Important boulevards If youve just got one day in Budapest what were you thinking? spend most of it on Castle
such as Bajcsy-Zsilinszky t, leafy Andrssy t, Rkczi t and lli t fan out from these Hill (p53), taking in the views and the sights and visiting a museum or two. In the afternoon

Sights
ring roads, creating large squares and circles. ride the Sikl (p53) down to Clark dm tr and, depending on the day of the week, make
your way to the Kirly (p136) or the Gellrt Baths (p136) for a relaxing soak. In the evening head
for Liszt Ferenc tr for drinks and dinner at Menza (p114) and perhaps attend a performance at
BUDAPEST DISTRICTS (See also Colour Map Section p215) the Ferenc Liszt Academy of Music (p131).

ITINERARIES
Bksmegyer
Three Days
With another couple of days to look around the city, concentrate first on the two icons of
Csillaghegy Hungarian nationhood and the places that house them: the Crown of St Stephen (p65) in the
IV Parliament (p65) and the saint-kings mortal remains in the Basilica of St Stephen (p64). Take a
iver

late-afternoon coffee (and cake) break at Gerbeaud (p125) in Vrsmarty tr and stop in at the
be R

jpest 0 5 km
III 0 3 miles
Hungarian State Opera House (p71) before going clubbing. The next day, consider taking a walking
Danu

Aquincum XV
tour (p76), such as the one up Andrssy t, stopping off and visiting whatever interests you
Szphalom Angyalfld jpalota
BUDA
XIII
along the way be it the House of Terror (p71) or the Museum of Fine Arts (p71). The Lukcs (p126)
MARGARET cake shop is conveniently located en route and you could take the waters at the Szchenyi Baths
II
Hvsvlgy ISLAND
(pp623) Rkosszentmihly (p136) in City Park. Robinson (p119) or Bagolyvr (p119) are convenient places for an evening
Rzsadomb jliptvros XIV
XVI
meal. Then take a well-watered tour of the citys best gardens (p129).
Zugliget Terzvros Zugl
Liptvros

XII
Vzivros
Istenhegy
Vr
V
VI
VII
Erzsbetvros
PEST
Mtysfld
One Week
I
Belvros (pp6374) If you have a full week in Budapest you could manage to see a good many of the sights
Jzsefvros
Farkasrt BUDA listed in this chapter, including secondary gems such as Gl Babas Tomb (p58) and the Ferenc
VIII Rkosliget
(pp5362) X
Kbnya Hopp Museum of East Asian Art (p70), markets like the Nagycsarnok (p149) and Ecseri Piac (p150) and
Sasad
IX
XVII do a little shopping. You could also make trips to places further afield, such as Statue Park
XI Kelenfld (p62), and take a ride up into the Buda Hills on the Cog Railway (p61) for a ramble. You might
Ferencvros
Kispest Rkoshegy even leave Budapest for a couple of days excursion to the Danube Bend, Lake Balaton or
Albertfalva
XIX
the Great Plain (for tours of these regions, see p169).
XX Pestszentlrinc

Budafok Pesterzsbet

Budattny
Csepel XVIII ORGANISED TOURS rising to Buda Castle, Parliament, Gellrt
Hill and the Citadella make the evening trip
Boat
XXI Pestszentimre
XXII
Nagyttny
Pterimajor far more attractive than the afternoon one.
iver Check Legendas website for the schedule.
Danube R
Soroksr
LEGENDA Map p224
XXIII %317 2203, 06 30 944 5216; www.legenda.hu;
V Vigad tr, pier 7; mM1 Vrsmarty tr MAHART PASSNAVE Map p224
This long-established operator has both %484 4013, 318 1223; www.mahartpassnave.hu;
day (3600Ft) and night (4200Ft) cruises on V Belgrd rakpart; j2 or 2/a
the Danube, with taped commentary in up This outfit offers 1- to two-hour river
to 30 languages. The night lights of the city cruises (1900/950Ft per adult/child under
50 Budapest Districts 51
 12) daily at noon and 7.30pm from early
Cycling walking tour of the ghetto and a nonkosher present-day owners of the coveted burgher
www.lonelyplanet.com

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May to mid-September. In the low season, snack for 5600/5100Ft per adult/student houses here are anything but common);
from April to early May and mid-September YELLOW ZEBRA BIKES Map p224 (4900/4300Ft without the snack), including and the Royal Palace, the original site of
to mid-October, only the evening cruise %266 8777, 06 30 211 8861; www.yellowzebra transport to the Great Synagogue. Tickets the castle built in the 13th century, now
sails (1600/800Ft) and its on Friday, Sat- bikes.com; V St utca 2; mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc tr are available from locations throughout the housing two important museums.
urday and Sunday. A ticket with a meal Run by the same people behind Absolute city, including the Duna Palota (Map p224; The easiest way to get to Castle Hill from
on board costs 2800/1400Ft, except in Walking Tours (below), Yellow Zebra has V Zrnyi utca) entertainment centre and Pest is to take bus 16 from Dek Ferenc
the evening in high season when its cycling tours (5500/5000Ft per adult/ at the entrance to the Great Synagogue (Map tr to Dsz tr, midway between the Old
3200/1600Ft and theres music and dancing student) of Budapest by day at 11am May p224; VII Dohny utca 2-8). Town and the Royal Palace. Much more fun,
on board. to October with an additional departure though, is to stroll across Chain Bridge and
at 4pm in July and August. Tours take in PAUL STREET TOURS board the Sikl (uphill/downhill ticket adult
Heroes Sq, City Park, inner Pest and Castle 650/550Ft, child aged 3-14 flat fare 350Ft;
Bus Hill and include the bike and a drink. They
%06 20 933 5240; taylorj@mail.datanet.hu
These very personal walking tours cover h7.30am-10pm, closed 1st and 3rd Mon-
BUDATOURS Map p224 depart from in front of the yellow Calvinist the Castle District (about two hours), less- day of each month), a funicular railway built
%353 0558, 374 7070; www.budatours.hu; church in V Dek Ferenc tr (Map p224) and explored areas of Pest, such as the Jewish in 1870 that ascends from Clark dm tr to
VI Andrssy t 2; mM1/2/3 Dek tr last 3 to four hours. There is an Opera House Quarter and Andrssy t (two to three Szent Gyrgy tr near the Royal Palace.
Budatours runs nine city bus tours branch (Map p222; %269 3843; VI Lzr hours), the Little Ring Road, the parks and Alternatively, you can walk up the Kirly
(4300/3000Ft per adult/student) daily in utca 16; mM1 Opera), from where it also gardens of Budapest and shopping, with lpcs, the Royal Steps that lead northwest
Sights

Sights
both open and covered coaches in July and runs City Segway Tours (www.citysegwaytours lots of anecdotal information on architec- from Clark dm tr, or the wide staircase
August (between three and eight the rest .com), which though not on bicycles in- ture and social history, especially life in and that goes to the southern end of the Royal
of the year) from VI Andrssy t 3 across volve two-wheeled, electric-powered con- around the udvar (courtyards) of fin-de- Palace from I Szarvas tr.
the street from its main office. Its a two- veyances. Segway tours (12,500Ft), which sicle Pest. Tours are available by appoint- Another option is to take metro M2 to
ORGANISED TOURS

CASTLE HILL
hour tour with one stop (Gellrt Hill) and follow an abbreviated version of the bike ment year-round in English or Hungarian Moszkva tr, walk up the steps in the north-
with taped commentary in 16 different tours Pest route and last three to 3 hours, and cost 25 per hour regardless of size. eastern part of the square and along I Vr-
languages. depart from the Opera branch at 10.30am fok utca to the Vienna Gate; a minibus with
daily year-round and at 6.30pm daily April a logo of a castle and labelled Vrbusz (or

BUDA
to October. You must book 72 hours in Dsz tr) follows the same route from the
CITYRAMA Map p222 advance via the web (24 hours ahead by start of Vrfok utca.
%302 4382; www.cityrama.hu; V Bthory utca 22; phone) for these tours. Eating p94; Sleeping p154; Shopping p142
mM3 Arany Jnos utca Leafy and unpolluted, Buda is more than BUDA CASTLE LABYRINTH Map p220
Cityrama offers three-hour city tours with just a pretty face seen from the Pest side
three stops from 7000/3000Ft per adult/ Walking of the Danube. Its more majestic western
Budavri Labirintus; %489 3280; www.labirintus
.com; entrances at I ri utca 9 & Lovas t 4; adult/child
child under 12. ABSOLUTE WALKING TOURS Map p224 side fronting the Danube contains some of
1400/1100Ft; h9.30am-7.30pm; g16 or Vrbusz
%266 8777, 06 30 211 8861; www.absolutetours Budapests most important and historical
HUNGARY PROGRAM CENTRUM The labyrinth, a 1200m-long cave system
.com; V St utca 2; mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc tr landmarks (eg Castle Hill, the Citadella)
some 16m under the Castle District, looks at
Map p224 This very reliable outfit has, among other and museums (eg National Gallery, Buda-
how the caves have been used from pre-
%317 7767, 06 20 944 9091; www.program tours, a 3-hour guided promenade pest History Museum) and, to the north, the
historic times in nine halls and chambers.
centrum.hu; V Erzsbet tr 9-10 (4000/3500Ft per adult/student or under-26) original Roman settlement at Aquincum.
With an office next to the Le Meridien Buda- through City Park, central Pest and Castle
pest hotel, this operator has similar tours to
those offered by Cityrama, but theyre a wee
Hill. Tours depart at 9.30am and 1.30pm
daily from mid-May to September and at CASTLE HILL BUDA TRANSPORT
bit cheaper (eg 6500/3250Ft per adult/child 10.30am daily the rest of the year from the Vrhegy (Castle Hill; Map p220) is a lime-
stone plateau 1km long and towering 170m Bus 7 to Gellrt Hill & the Tabn; 16 to Castle Hill;
for the three-hour city tour) at least for steps of the yellow Calvinist church on V
above the Danube. It contains Budapests 27 to Gellrt Hill & the Tabn; 34, 42 to buda &
adults. Dek Ferenc tr (Map p224). Cracker special-
most important medieval monuments and Aquincum; 60 to Vzivros; 86 to Gellrt Hill & the
ist tours include the Hammer & Sickle Tour
museums and is a Unesco World Hertage Tabn, Vzivros and buda & Aquincum; 158 to
QUEENYBUS Map p216 (6000/5000Ft) and the Hungaro Gastro Food
Buda Hills; Vrbusz to Castle Hill
& Wine Tour (6500/5500Ft). Site. It is the premier sight in the capital, and
%247 7159, 06 70 338 1159; with its grand views and so many things to Funicular Sikl to Castle Hill
queenybus@queenybus.hu; XI Trkblinti t 28; see, you should start here. Below is a 28km
g8 HUNGRIA KONCERT network of caves formed by thermal springs
HV To Vzivros and buda & Aquincum
Queenybus has buses departing three %317 2754, 201 5928; www.ticket.info.hu that were supposedly used by the Turks for Metro M2 to Castle Hill, Vzivros and Buda Hills
times daily (10am, 11am and 2.20pm) from Focusing on Budapests Jewish heritage, military purposes, as air-raid shelters during Tram 1, 1/a to buda & Aquincum; 4, 6 to Vzivros;
in front of the Basilica of St Stephen (Map this operator has a 2-hour tour available WWII, and as a secret military installation 17 to Vzivros and buda & Aquincum; 18 to Gellrt
p224; V Bajcsy-Zsilinszky t) for three- at 10.30am and 1.30pm most weekdays during the Cold War. Hill & the Tabn and Buda Hills; 19 to Gellrt Hill &
hour city tours (6000/3000/3200Ft per year-round and at 11.30am on Sunday. The The walled area consists of two distinct the Tabn and Vzivros; 47, 49 to Gellrt Hill & the
adult/child under 14/student, open deck tour includes a visit to the Great and Ortho- parts: the Old Town to the north, where Tabn; 56 to Buda Hills
4300/1500/3000Ft). dox Synagogues, the Jewish Museum, a commoners lived in the Middle Ages (the
52 53
 bastions name was taken from the guild The museum also has an important col- taken by the government is expected to be
www.lonelyplanet.com

www.lonelyplanet.com
BUDA TOP FIVE of fishermen responsible for defending this
stretch of the wall in the Middle Ages. The
lection of Hungarian paintings and sculp-
ture from the 19th and 20th centuries. You
complete in 2007.
Steps to the right of the main altar inside

Aquincum Museum (p59) seven gleaming white turrets represent the may not recognise many names, but keep the church lead to the crypt. The Matthias

Fishermens Bastion (below) Magyar tribes that entered the Carpathian an eye open for the harrowing depictions Church Collection of Ecclesiastical Art (Mtys-

Hungarian National Gallery (right) Basin in the late 9th century. of war and the dispossessed by Lszl Med- templom Egyhzmvszeti Gyjtemnye;

Kiscelli Museum & Municipal Gallery (p60) nynszky, the unique portraits by Jzsef %488 0717), which is included in the

Matthias Church (opposite) Rippl-Rnai, the mammoth canvases by church admission fee and keeps the same
GOLDEN EAGLE PHARMACY
Tivadar Csontvry, the paintings of carni- hours, contains ornate monstrances, reli-
MUSEUM Map p220 vals by the modern artist Vilmos Aba-Novk quaries, chalices and other church plate.
The admission fee is very high by Budapest Arany Sas Patikamzeum; %375 9772; I Trnok and works by the realist Mihly Munkcsy,
standards, but its all good fun and a relief utca 18; admission free; h10.30am-5.30pm
from the heat and the crowds above on a
the painter of the puszta (Great Plain). MEDIEVAL JEWISH PRAYER HOUSE
Tue-Sun mid-MarOct, 10.30am-3.30pm Tue-Sun
hot summers day. MAP p220
Novmid-Mar; g16 or Vrbusz MATTHIAS CHURCH Map p220 Kzpkori Zsid Imahz; %225 7815; I Tncsics
Just north of Dsz tr on the site of Buda- Mtys-templom; %355 5657; www.matyas
BUDAPEST HISTORY MUSEUM Map p220 pests first pharmacy (1681), this branch -templom.hu; I Szenthromsg tr 2; adult/child/
Mihly utca 26; adult/student or child 400/150Ft;
Budapesti Trtneti Mzeum; %225 7815, 375 of the Semmelweis Museum of Medical h10am-5pm Tue-Sun May-Oct; g16 or Vrbusz
family 600/300/1000Ft, audioguide 300Ft; h9am- With parts dating from the 14th century,
7533; Royal Palace, Wing E; adult/student or History (p57) contains an unusual mixture
5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat, 1-5pm Sun; g16 or
Sights

Sights
of displays, including a mock-up of an this medieval Jewish house of worship
child/family 900/450/1500Ft, audioguide 800Ft;
alchemists laboratory and a small spice Vrbusz contains documents and items linked to
h10am-6pm daily mid-Maymid-Sep, 10am-6pm Parts of Castle Hills landmark church date the Jewish community of Buda, as well
rack used by 17th-century travellers for
Wed-Mon Marmid-May & mid-SepOct, 10am- their daily fixes of herbs. back some 500 years, notably the carvings as Gothic stone carvings and tombstones
CASTLE HILL

CASTLE HILL
4pm Wed-Mon Nov-Feb; g16 or Vrbusz above the southern entrance. But basic- from the Great Synagogue (p68) in Pest.
Also known as the Castle Museum (Vr ally the church (so named because King
Mzeum), the history museum traces the HOUSE OF HUNGARIAN WINES Matthias Corvinus married Beatrice here in HUNGARIAN MUSEUM OF
2000 years of the city on three floors of Map p220 1474) is a neo-Gothic creation designed by
rather jumbled exhibits. Restored palace Magyar Borok Hza; %212 1030; www.winehouse COMMERCE & CATERING Map p220
the architect Frigyes Schulek in 1896.
rooms dating from the 15th century can be .hu; I Szenthromsg tr 6; wine tasting 3800Ft; The church has a colourful tiled roof and Magyar Kereskedelmi s Vendgltipari Mzeum;
entered from the basement, which contains hnoon-8pm; g16 or Vrbusz a delicate spire; the interior is remarkable %375 6249; I Fortuna utca 4; adult/child/family
a display on the Royal Palace in medieval This wine centre offers a crash course in for its stained-glass windows, frescoes and 400/200/1000Ft; h10am-5pm Wed-Fri, 10am-
Buda. In the basement three vaulted halls, Hungarian viticulture in the heart of the wall decorations by the Romantic painters 6pm Sat & Sun; g16 or Vrbusz
one with a magnificent door frame in red Castle District. But with over 700 wines on Kroly Lotz and Bertalan Szkely. There are The catering section of this museum, to
marble bearing the seal of Queen Beatrice display from Hungarys 22 wine regions and organ concerts in the church on certain the left as you enter the archway, contains
and tiles with a raven and a ring (the seal of up to 50 to try, crash may soon become evenings, continuing a tradition that began an entire 19th-century cake shop in one
her husband King Matthias Corvinus), lead the operative word. Do what the pros do in 1867 when Franz Liszts Hungarian Coron- of its three rooms, complete with a pastry
to the Gothic Hall, the Royal Cellar and the 14th- and try not to swallow. ation Mass was first played here for the kitchen. There are moulds for every occa-
century Tower Chapel. On the ground floor is coronation of Franz Joseph and Elizabeth sion, a marble-lined icebox and an antique
an exhibit entitled Budapest in the Middle as king and queen of Hungary. A US$20 ice-cream maker. Much is made of the great
Ages, as well as Gothic statues of courtiers, HUNGARIAN NATIONAL GALLERY million restoration of the church under- confectioners Emil Gerbeaud of cukrszda
squires and saints discovered during exca- Map p220
vations in 1974. The presentation on the 1st Magyar Nemzeti Galria; %201 9082, 06 20 439
floor Budapest in Modern Times traces 7325; Royal Palace, Wings B, C & D; admission free,
the history of the city from the expulsion special exhibitions adult/child/family 1500/800/
of the Turks in 1686 to Hungarys entry into 3000Ft; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; g16 or Vrbusz
the EU. On the 2nd floor youll learn about The Hungarian National Gallery is an over-
Budapest from prehistoric times to the ar- whelmingly large collection over four floors
rival of the Avars in the late 6th century. that traces the development of Hungarian THIS IMAGE
FISHERMENS BASTION Map p220
art from the 10th century to the present
day. The largest collections include medi- NOT AVAILABLE
Halszbstya; adult/child 330/165Ft; h9am- eval and Renaissance stonework, Gothic IN PICK & MIX
11pm; g16 or Vrbusz wooden sculptures and panel paintings,
The bastion is a neo-Gothic masquerade late Gothic winged altars, and late Renais-
that most visitors (and Hungarians) be- sance and baroque art. Do not miss the
lieve to be much older. But who cares? It restored altar of St John the Baptist from
looks medieval and still offers among the Kisszebes (now in Romania) or the 16th-
best views in Budapest. Built as a viewing century painted wooden ceiling in the next
platform in 1905 by Frigyes Schulek, the room.
54 55
 (caf) fame and Jzsef Dobos, who gave his This neighbourhood later became known
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www.lonelyplanet.com
name to Dobos torta (p29). The commerce for its restaurants and wine gardens a kind BUDAPESTS BRIDGES
collection traces retail trade in the capital. of Montmartre for Budapest. Most of these
Along with advertisements and electric burned to the ground at the turn of the 20th The citys bridges, both landmarks and delightful vantage points over the Danube, are stitches that have bound Buda
toys that still work, theres an exhibit on the century. All that remains is a lovely little and Pest together since well before the two were linked politically in 1873. There are a total of nine spans, including a
hyperinflation that Hungary suffered after renovated building with a fountain designed railroad bridge, but the four in the centre stand head and shoulders above the rest.
WWII when a basket of money would buy by Mikls Ybl in 1879 known as the Castle Margaret Bridge (Margit hd; Map pp21819) This span introduces the Big Ring Road to Buda. It is unique in that it
no more than four eggs. Garden Kiosk (Vrkert Kioszk; I Ybl Mikls doglegs in order to stand at right angles to the Danube at its confluence at the southern tip of Margaret Island. It was
tr 2-6), which was once a pump house for originally built by French engineer Ernest Gouin in 1876; the branch leading to the island was added in 1901.
MILITARY HISTORY MUSEUM Map p220 Castle Hill and is now a casino. The dilapi- Szchenyi Chain Bridge (Szchenyi lnchd; Map p220) A twin-towered structure to the south, this is the citys
Hadtrtneti Mzeum; %356 9522; I Tth rpd dated steps and archways across the road, is oldest and arguably its most beautiful bridge. It is named in honour of its initiator, Istvn Szchenyi (p42), but was
all that is left of the Castle Bazaar (Vrbazr) actually built by Scotsman Adam Clark. When it opened in 1849, Chain Bridge was unique for two reasons: it was the
stny 40; admission free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun pleasure park.
Apr-Sep, 10am-4pm Tue-Sun Oct-Mar; g16 or first permanent dry link between Buda and Pest; and the aristocracy previously exempt from all taxation had to
Today Gellrt Hill and the Tabn districts pay a toll like everybody else to use it.
Vrbusz are given over to private homes, parks and
Loaded with weaponry from before the three thermal spas that make good use of Elizabeth Bridge (Erzsbet hd; Map p224) This gleaming white (though rather generic-looking) suspension bridge
Turkish conquest, the Military History Mu- the hot springs gushing from deep below further downstream enjoys a special place in the hearts of many Budapesters as it was the first newly designed
seum also does a good job with uniforms, Gellrt Hill: the recently renovated Rudas bridge to reopen after WWII (1964). (The original span, erected in 1903, was too badly damaged to rebuild.) Boasting
a higher arch than the others, it offers dramatic views of both Castle and Gellrt Hills and, of course, the more attrac-
Sights

Sights
medals, flags and battle-themed fine art. Baths (Map p224; p137) and the Gellrt
Exhibits focus on the 184849 War of Inde- Baths (Map pp2289; p137); the Rc Baths tive bridges to the north and south.
pendence and the Hungarian Royal Army (Map p220), designed by Mikls Ybl around Independence Bridge (Szabadsg hd; Map pp2289) Opened for the 1896 millenary exhibition, Independence Bridge
under Admiral Mikls Horthy (191843). a much older Turkish bath, was still under has a fin-de-sicle cantilevered span. Each post of the bridge, which was originally named after Habsburg emperor
GELLRT HILL & THE TABN

GELLRT HILL & THE TABN

renovation at the time of writing. If you Franz Joseph, is topped by a mythical turul bird (p37) ready to take flight. It was rebuilt in the same style in 1946.
TELEPHONY MUSEUM Map p220 dont like getting wet you can try a drinking
Telefnia Mzeum; %201 8188; www.postamuze cure by visiting the pump room (ivcsarnok;
um.hu; I ri utca 49 & Orszghz utca 30; adult/child Map p224; h11am-6pm Mon, Wed & Fri, the Citadella contains some big guns and SEMMELWEIS MUSEUM OF
7am-2pm Tue & Thu), which is within sight
200/100Ft; h10am-4pm Tue-Sun; g16 or Vrbusz of the Rudas Baths just below the western
dusty displays in the central courtyard, MEDICAL HISTORY Map p220
This museum, set within a lovely backstreet the new 1944 Waxworks (1944 Panoptkum; Semmelweis Orvostrtneti Mzeum; %201 1577;
end of Elizabeth Bridge. A half-litre/litre of %279 1963; admission 1200Ft; h9am-
garden, documents the history of the tele- I Aprd utca 1-3; adult/child 300/150Ft; h10.30am-
the hot smelly water meant to cure what- 9pm Mon-Fri, 8am-10pm Sat, 8am-9pm
phone in Hungary since 1881, when the
ever ails you is just 15/25Ft. Sun) inside a WWII bunker, a hotel/hostel 5.30pm Tue-Sun mid-MarOct, 10.30am-3.30pm
worlds first switchboard a 7A1 Rotary still
working and the centrepiece of the exhibi- (p154), a restaurant and a dance club. Tue-Sun Novmid-Mar; j19
tion was set up in Budapest. Other exhibits CAVE CHAPEL Map pp228-9 This museum traces the history of medicine
Sziklakpolna; %385 1529; h9am-9pm; from Graeco-Roman times through medical
pay tribute to Tivadr Pusks, a Hungarian INDEPENDENCE MONUMENT tools and implements and photographs,
associate of Thomas Edison, and of the j47 or 49 Map pp228-9
latters fleeting visit to Budapest in 1891. This chapel on a small hill directly north of and yet another antique pharmacy makes
the landmark Gellrt Hotel was built into a Szabadsg-szobor; g27 an appearance. Ignc Semmelweis (1818
cave in 1926. It was the seat of the Pauline The charming lady with the palm frond 65), the saviour of mothers who discov-
GELLRT HILL & THE TABN order until 1951 when the priests were ar-
rested and imprisoned by the communists
proclaiming freedom throughout the city
from atop Gellrt Hill is just east of the
ered the cause of puerperal (or childbirth)
fever, was born in this house.
Gellrt-hegy (Gellrt Hill; Map p220 and Citadella. Some 14m high, it was erected
Map pp2289), a 235m-high rocky hill and the cave was sealed off. It was reopened
and reconsecrated in 1992. Behind the in 1947 in tribute to the Soviet soldiers STATUES & BRIDGES
southeast of the Castle District, is crowned who died liberating Budapest in 1945, but Szent Gellrt tr faces Independence Bridge
with a fortress of sorts and the Independ- chapel is the monastery, with its neo-Gothic
turrets visible from Independence Bridge. the victims names in Cyrillic letters on the (Szabadsg hd; Map pp2289; j47 or 49),
ence Monument, Budapests unofficial sym- plinth and the statues of the Soviet soldiers which opened for the millenary exhibition
bol. From Gellrt Hill, you cant beat the were removed in 1992. In fact, the monu- in 1896.
views of the Royal Palace or the Danube CITADELLA Map pp228-9 ment had been designed by the politically Looking down on Elizabeth Bridge (Erzsbet
and its fine bridges, and Jubilee Park on %365 6076; www.citadella.hu; h24hr; g27 flexible sculptor Zsigmond Kisfaludi Strobl hd; Map p224; g7) from Gellrt Hill is St
the south side is an ideal spot for a picnic. The Citadella atop St Gellrt Hill is a for- much earlier for the ultraright government Gellrt (Map p220; g7), an Italian mission-
The Tabn (Map p220), the leafy area be- tress that never did battle. Built by the of Admiral Mikls Horthy. After the war, ary invited to Hungary by King Stephen to
tween Gellrt and Castle Hills, and stretch- Habsburgs after the 184849 War of Inde- when procommunist monuments were in convert the natives. The monument marks
ing northwest as far as Dli train station, is pendence to defend the city from further short supply, Kisfaludi Strobl passed it off the spot from where the bishop was hurled
associated with the Serbs, who settled here insurrection, by the time it was ready in as a memorial to the Soviets. If you walk to his death in a spiked barrel in 1046 by
after fleeing from the Turks in the early 1851 the political climate had changed and west for a few minutes along Citadella pagan Hungarians resisting the new faith.
18th century. Plaques on I Dbrentei utca the Citadella had become obsolete. It was stny north of the fortress, youll come North of the bridge and through the
mark the water level of the Danube during given to the city in the 1890s and parts of to what is arguably the best vantage point in underpass is a statue of Elizabeth (Map p224;
two devastating floods in 1775 and 1838. it were symbolically blown to pieces. Today Budapest. g7), the Habsburg empress and Hungarian
56 57
 queen and the consort of Franz Joseph HV suburban line to Szentendre. On the named it Buda, which became buda when
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much beloved by Magyars because, among southern side is St Annes Church (Szent Ana the Royal Palace was built on Castle Hill and
other things, she learned to speak Hungar- templom; Map p220; II Batthyny tr 7), turned into the real centre.
ian. Sissi, as she was affectionately known, with one of the most eye-catching baroque Most visitors on their way to Szentendre
was assassinated by an Italian anarchist in interiors of any church in Budapest. (p170) on the Danube Bend are put off by
Geneva in 1898. A couple of streets north is Nagy Imre tr, what they see of buda from the highway
with the enormous former Military Court of Jus- or the HV commuter train. Prefabricated
VZIVROS
tice (Map pp21819; II F utca 70-78) on the
THIS IMAGE housing blocks seem to go on forever, and
NOT AVAILABLE
northern side. Here Imre Nagy and others the rpd Bridge flyover splits the heart
The suburb of Vzivros (Watertown; Map were tried and sentenced to death in 1958 of the district (Flrin tr) in two. But be-
p220) is the narrow area between the Danube
and Castle Hill that widens as it approaches
(p47). It was also the site of the notorious IN PICK & MIX hind all this are some of the most import-
ant Roman ruins in Hungary, noteworthy
F utca prison where many other victims of
buda to the north and Rzsadomb (Rose the regime were incarcerated and tortured. museums and small, quiet neighbourhoods
Hill) to the northwest, spreading west to The Kirly Baths (Kirly Gygyfrd; Map that still recall fin-de-sicle buda.
Moszkva tr, one of Budas main transport pp21819; II F utca 82-86), parts of which Aquincum (Map pp2267), the most
hubs. Under the Turks many of the districts date from 1580, is one block to the north complete Roman civilian town in Hungary
churches were used as mosques, and baths (see p136). Across pedestrianised Ganz utca and now a museum, had paved streets and
were built, one of which is still functioning. is the Greek Catholic St Florian Chapel (Szent fairly sumptuous single-storey houses with
Sights

Sights
Vzivros begins at Clark dm tr, that Florin kpolna; Map pp21819; II F utca courtyards, fountains and mosaic floors, as
is named after the 19th-century Scottish en- 88-90), built in 1760 and dedicated to the well as sophisticated drainage and heating
gineer who supervised the building of the 1541, and is known in Hungary as the Father systems. Not all that is apparent today as
patron saint of firefighters.
Szchenyi Chain Bridge (p57), leading east of Roses. The tomb is a pilgrimage place for you walk among the ruins, but you can see
Muslims, especially from Turkey, and you
VZIVROS

BUDA & AQUINCUM

from the square. Clark also designed the all- its outlines as well as those of the big public
important tunnel (alagt) under Castle Hill
FOUNDRY MUSEUM Map pp218-19 must remove your shoes before entering baths, market, an early Christian church
(p53), which took eight months to carve ntdei Mzeum; %202 5011, 201 4370; II Bem the tomb. Theres a pleasant caf here with and a temple dedicated to the god Mithra,
out of the limestone. The curious sculpture, Jzsef utca 20; admission free; h9am-5pm Tue- fine views. To reach the tomb from Trk the chief deity of a religion that once ri-
which looks like a elongated doughnut, hid- Sun; j4 or 6 utca, which runs parallel to Frankel Le t, valled Christianity in its number of believ-
den in the bushes to the south is the 0km This museum is housed in the Ganz walk west along steep (and cobbled) Gl ers (see p61).
stone; all Hungarian roads to and from the Machine Works foundry that was in use Baba utca to the set of steps just past No 16.
capital are measured from this exact spot. until the 1960s, and the massive ladles and You can also reach here along Mecset utca,
cranes still stand, anxiously awaiting use. which runs north from Margit tr. AQUINCUM MUSEUM Map pp226-7
F UTCA The exhibits include cast-iron stoves, bells Aquincumi Mzeum; %250 1650, 430 1081; www
g86 and street furniture. MILLENNIUM PARK Map pp218-19 .aquincum.hu; III Szentendrei t 139; archaeological
F utca is the Main Street running through Millenris Park; %438 5312; www.millenaris.hu; park adult/child 400/150Ft, park & museum adult/
Vzivros and dates from Roman times. At FRANKEL LE T Map pp218-19 II Kis Rkus utca 16-20 & Lvhz utca 37; h6am- child/family 700/300/1200Ft; hpark/museum
the former Capuchin church (Map p220; I F j17 1am; mM2 Moszkva tr 9/10am-6pm Tue-Sun May-Sep, 9/10am-5pm Tue-
utca 30-32), used as a mosque during the At Bem Jzsef tr, F utca turns into Fran- One of the more successful urban redevel- Sun 15-30 Apr & Oct; HV Aquincum
Turkish occupation, you can see the remains kel Le t, a tree-lined street of antique opment projects on either side of the In the centre of what remains of the Roman
of two Islamic-style ogee-arched doors and shops and boutiques. At its northern end is Danube in the past decade, this park is civilian settlement, the Aquincum Museum
windows on the southern side. Around the the Lukcs Bath (Lukcs Gygyfrd; II Frankel a large landscaped complex behind the tries to put the ruins in perspective, with
corner theres the seal of King Matthias Le t 25-29), which caters to an older and Mammut shopping mall comprising foun- some success. Most of the big sculptures
Corvinus a raven and a ring and the quite serious crowd of thermal enthusiasts tains, ponds, little bridges, a theatre and and stone sarcophagi are outside to the left
little square with the delightful Louis Fountain (see p136). A short distance north and the Millennium Exhibition Hall (Millenris Kil- of the museum or behind it in the lapidary.
(Lajos ktja; 1904; Map p220) is called Corvin tucked away in an apartment block is the ltcsarnok; %438 5335; admission varies; Keep an eye open for the replica of a 3rd-
tr. The Eclectic building on the north side jlak Synagogue (jlaki zsinagga; %326 h10am-6pm or 8pm), which hosts some century portable organ called a hydra (and
is the Buda Concert Hall (Budai Vigad; Map 1445; II Frankel Le t 49), built in 1888 and unusual cultural exhibitions. the mosaic illustrating how it was played),
p220; Corvin tr 8). The Iron Stump (Vastusk; the only functioning synagogue left on the pottery moulds, floor mosaics from the

BUDA & AQUINCUM

Map p220; cnr I Vm utca & Iskola utca) Buda side. governors palace across the river on buda
to the north is the odd-looking tree trunk Island and a mock-up of a Roman bath.
into which itinerant artisans and merchants means ancient in Hungarian; as its name
would drive a nail to mark their visit. GL BABAS TOMB Map pp218-19 suggests, buda (Map pp2267) is the old-
Gl Baba Trbje; %326 0062; II Trbe tr 1; est part of Buda. The Romans established HERCULES VILLA Map pp226-7
Batthyny tr (Map p220), a short distance
to the northeast, is the centre of Vzivros adult/child 500/250Ft; h10am-6pm Mar-Oct, Aquincum, a key military garrison and civil- Herkules Villa; %250 1650; III Meggyfa utca 19-21;
and the best place to snap a picture of 10am-4pm Nov-Feb; j17 ian town north of here at the end of the 1st admission free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun May-Sep,
the Parliament building across the river. This overly reconstructed tomb contains the century AD (see p36), and it became the seat 10am-5pm Tue-Sun 15-30 Apr & Oct; g86
In the centre of this rather shabby square remains of one Gl Baba, an Ottoman Der- of the Roman province of Pannonia Inferior Hercules Villa, in the middle of a vast hous-
is the entrance to both metro M2 and the vish who took part in the capture of Buda in in AD 106. When the Magyars arrived, they ing estate northwest of F tr, is the name
58 59
 given to some reconstructed Roman ruins. concerns and rooms furnished with Empire,
BUDA HILLS & Sun mid-Marlate Oct, 10am-4pm Tue-
www.lonelyplanet.com

www.lonelyplanet.com
The name is derived from the astonish- Biedermeier and Art Nouveau furniture and Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun late Octmid-
With peaks reaching over 500m, a com-
ing 3rd-century floor mosaics of Hercules bric-a-brac. The Municipal Gallery (Fvrosi Mar), two minutes to the south on Hegyht
exploits found in what was a Roman villa. Kptr), with its impressive art collection
prehensive system of trails and no lack
of unusual conveyances, the Buda Hills t. The railway was built in 1951 by Pion-
(Jzsef Rippl-Rnai, Lajos Tihanyi, Istvn eers (socialist Scouts) and is staffed entirely
Csk, Bla Czbel etc), is upstairs.
(Map p216) make up what is the citys
IMRE VARGA EXHIBITION HOUSE playground, and theyre a welcome res- by schoolchildren aged 10 to 14 with the
pite from hot, dusty Pest in the warmer exception of the engineer. The little train
Map pp226-7
ROMAN MILITARY AMPHITHEATRE months. Indeed, some well-heeled Buda- chugs along for 12km, terminating at Hvs-
Varga Imre Killthza; %250 0274; III Laktanya vlgy (Chilly Valley). There are walks fan-
Map pp226-7 pest families have summer homes here. If
utca 7; adult/child 500/250Ft; h10am-6pm Tue- ning out from any of the stops along the
Rmai Katonai Amfitetrum; III Pacsirtamez utca; youre planning to ramble, take along a
Sun; g86 way, or you can return to Moszkva tr on
This exhibition space includes sculptures, admission free; h24hr; g86 copy of Cartographias 1: 30,000 A Budai-
Built in the 2nd century for the Roman gar- hegysg map (No 6; 900Ft), available from tram 56 from Hvsvlgy. The train oper-
statues, medals and drawings by Varga ates about once an hour (every 45 minutes
(1923), one of Hungarys foremost sculp- risons, this amphitheatre about 800m south bookshops and newsstands throughout the
of Flrin tr could accommodate up to city. Apart from the Bla Bartk Memorial at the weekend in peak season).
tors. Like others before him, notably Zsig- A more interesting way down from the
mond Kisfaludi Strobl (see p57), he seems 15,000 spectators and was larger than the House (right), there are very few sights per
Colosseum in Rome. The rest of the military se, though you might want to poke your hills, though, is to get off at Jnos-hegy, the
to have sat on both sides of the fence fourth stop on the Childrens Railway and
politically for decades sculpting Bla camp extended north to Flrin tr. Archae- head into one of the Buda Hills several
caves (p138). the highest point (527m) in the hills. About
Sights

Sights
Kun and Lenin as dextrously as he did St ology and classical-history buffs taking the
86 bus to Flrin tr should descend at III With all the unusual transport options, 700m due east is the chair lift (libeg; %394
Stephen, Bla Bartk and even Imre Nagy 3764; adult/child 500/200Ft; h9.30am-
(see p66). A short distance southwest of Nagyszombat utca. HV passengers should heading for the hills is more than half the
get off at Tmr utca. fun. From the Moszkva tr metro station on 5pm mid-Maymid-Sep, 9.30am-4pm mid-
the museum is more of Vargas work:
the M2 line in Buda, walk west along Szil- Sepmid-May), which will take you down to
BUDA & AQUINCUM

BUDA HILLS
a group of metal sculptures of rather
VASARELY MUSEUM Map pp226-7 gyi Erzsbet fasor for 10 minutes (or take Zugligeti t. (Note the chair lift is closed on
worried-looking women holding umbrellas
tram 18 or 56 for two stops) to the circular the Monday of every even-numbered week.)
in the middle of the road. %388 7551; III Szentllek tr 6; admission free,
high-rise Hotel Budapest (Map p216; II Szil- From here bus 158 returns to Moszkva tr
temporary exhibitions adult/child 400/200Ft; gyi Erzsbet fasor 47). Directly opposite is (last one is just after 10.15pm).
KASSK MUSEUM Map pp226-7 h10am-5.30pm Tue-Sun; g86 the terminus of the Cog Railway (Fogaskerek
%368 7021; III F tr 1; admission free, temporary In the crumbling Zichy Mansion, this mu- vast; %355 4167; admission 1 BKV ticket
seum (part of the Museum of Fine Arts;
BLA BARTK MEMORIAL HOUSE
exhibitions adult/child 150/100Ft; h10am-6pm or adult/child 170/85Ft; hup 5am-11pm, Map p216
p71) contains the works of Victor Vasarely down 5.20am-11.30pm). Built in 1874, the
Tue-Sun; g86 (or Vsrhelyi Gyz before he emigrated Bartk Bla Emlkhz; %394 2100; II Csaln t
Sharing the same building as the Vasarely cog climbs for 3.6km in about 16 minutes to
to Paris in 1930), the late father of op art. Szchenyi-hegy (427m), one of the prettiest 29; adult/child 500/250Ft; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun;
Museum (right) but facing the inner The works, especially ones like Dirac and
courtyard, the Kassk Museum contains residential areas in the city. g29
Tlinko-F, are excellent and fun to watch as At Szchenyi-hegy, you can stop for a North of Szilgyi Erzsbet fasor but still
some real gems of early-20th-century they swell and move around the canvas. On
avant-garde art as well as the complete picnic in the park south of the old-time very much in the Buda Hills, this recently
the 1st floor are exhibits of works by Hun- station or board the narrow-gauge Childrens renovated house is where the great com-
works of the artist and writer Lajos Kassk garian artists working abroad.
(18871967). It is a three-hall art gallery on Railway (Gyermekvast; %397 5394; www poser resided from 1932 until 1940, when
the 1st floor. .gyermekvasut.com; adult/child 300/ 100Ft; he emigrated to the USA. Among other
ZSIGMOND KUN FOLK ART h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9.45am-5.30pm Sat things on display is the old Edison recorder
COLLECTION Map pp226-7
KISCELLI MUSEUM & MUNICIPAL
Kun Zsigmond Npmvszeti Gyjtemny; %368
GALLERY Map pp226-7
Kiscelli Mzeum; %388 8560, 250 0304; III Kiscelli
1138; III F tr 4; adult/child 300/200Ft; h10am- MITHRA & THE GREAT SACRIFICE
6pm Tue-Sun; g86 Mithraism, the worship of the god Mithra, originated in Persia. As Roman rule extended into Asia, the religion became
utca 108; adult/child/family 600/300/1000Ft; This charming small museum displays folk
h10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-4pm Nov- extremely popular with traders, imperial slaves and mercenaries of the Roman army and spread rapidly throughout
art amassed by a wealthy ethnographer in
Mar; j17 the empire in the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD. In fact, Mithraism was the principal rival of Christianity until Constantine
his 18th-century townhouse. Most of the
Housed in an 18th-century monastery, came to the throne in the 4th century.
pottery and ceramics are from Meztr
later a barracks that was badly damaged near the Tisza River, but there are some rare Mithraism was a mysterious religion with its devotees sworn to secrecy. What little is known of Mithra, the god of
in WWII and again in 1956, the exhibits Moravian and Swabian pieces as well as justice and social contract, has been deduced from reliefs and icons found in sanctuaries and temples, such as the one
at this museum southwest of Flrin tr Transylvanian furniture and textiles. The at- at Aquincum. Most of these portray Mithra clad in a Persian-style cap and tunic, sacrificing a white bull in front of Sol,
attempt to tell the story (from the human tendants are very proud of the collection so the sun god. From the bulls blood sprout grain and grapes and from its semen animals. Sols wife Luna, the moon,
side) of Budapest since liberation from the be prepared for some lengthy explanations. begins her cycle and time is born.
Turks. The museum counts among its best And dont ask about the priceless tile stove Mithraism and Christianity were close competitors partly because of the similarity in many of their rituals. Both in-
displays a complete 19th-century apoth- that a workman knocked over a couple of volve the birth of a deity on 25 December, shepherds, death and resurrection, and a form of baptism. Devotees knelt when
ecary moved here from Klvin tr, ancient years back (unless you want to see a grown they worshipped and a common meal a communion of bread and water was a regular feature of both liturgies.
signboards advertising shops and other man cry).
60 61
 (complete with wax cylinders) that Bartk the Le Meridien Budapest hotel on V Dek shortage of green lungs either City Park
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www.lonelyplanet.com
used to record Hungarian folk music in Ferenc tr daily at 11am year-round, with at the end of Andrssy t is the largest park
Transylvania, as well as furniture and other an extra departure at 3pm March to Octo- in Budapest and is filled with various sights
objects he collected. ber and additional ones at 10am and 4pm and diversions.
in July and August.

OUTER BUDA DISTRICTS TROPICARIUM-OCEANARIUM THIS IMAGE INNER TOWN

Worth a visit are a number of unusual sights %424 3050; www.tropicarium.hu; XXII NOT AVAILABLE Belvros (Inner Town; Map p224) is the
heart of Pest and contains the most valuable
further afield in southwest Buda. Whether
youre into socialist icons, exquisite Euro-
Nagyttnyi t 37-45; adult/child 1700/1000Ft;
h10am-8pm; g3 from XI Mricz Zsigmond
IN PICK & MIX commercial real estate in the city. The area
pean furniture or tropical fish in formation, north of busy Ferenciek tere is particularly
krtr full of flashy boutiques and well-touristed
theyre all an easy bus ride away. This vast aquarium complex at the Cam- bars and restaurants; youll usually hear
pona shopping centre in south Buda meas- more German, Italian, Spanish and English
NAGYTTNY CASTLE MUSEUM ures 3000 sq metres and is apparently the spoken here than Hungarian.
Nagyttnyi Kastlymzeum; %207 5462, 207 largest in Central Europe. Dont expect just The Inner Town contains four import-
0005; XXII Kastlypark utca 9-11; admission free, to see snazzy neon-coloured tropical exam- ant centres: V Dek Ferenc tr, a busy
special exhibitions adult/child 600/300Ft; h10am- ples, however; this place prides itself on its square in the northeast corner of the Inner
the Olympic swimming champion and later
Sights

Sights
6pm Tue-Sun; g3 from XI Mricz Zsigmond krtr local specimens too. Town and the only place where all three
architect Alfrd Hajs, who won the 100m
in Pest metro lines (M1/2/3) converge; touristy V
and 1200m events at the first modern Olym-
MARGARET ISLAND
In a baroque mansion in deepest south Vrsmarty tr, which is on the M1 metro
piad in 1896 and who actually built the place.
Buda, Nagyttny Castle Museum contains at the northern end of V Vci utca; V Fer-
Further north is the renovated Palatinus (Map
OUTER BUDA DISTRICTS

INNER TOWN
an exhibition from the Applied Arts Mu- Sleeping p158 enciek tere on metro M3, which divides the
pp2267; XIII Margit-sziget) complex of
seum (p69) tracing the development of Neither Buda nor Pest though part of district Inner Town at Szabadsajt t (Free Press
outdoor pools, huge water slides and strand
European furniture from the Gothic to XIII, 2.5km-long Margaret Island (Margit- Ave); and V Egyetem tr (University Sq),
(beaches). For more on these pools see p137
Biedermeier styles (approximately 1450 to sziget; Map pp2267 and Map pp21819) a five-minute walk south along V Kroly
and p137.
1850) with some 300 items on display in in the middle of the Danube was always the Mihly utca from Ferenciek tere and 250m
You can hire a bicycle from one of several
more than two dozen rooms. domain of one religious order or another northwest of Klvin tr on the M3 metro
stands, including Stacikli (Map pp21819;
until the Turks arrived and turned what along leafy V Kecskemti utca.
%06 30 966 6453; 3-speed per half-hour/ Semipedestrianised IX Rday utca, which
STATUE PARK Map p216 was then called the Island of Rabbits into hour/day 400/600/1800Ft, pedal coach for
appropriately enough a harem, from which leads south from V Klvin tr into Ferenc-
Szoborpark; %424 7500; www.szoborpark.hu; 3/5 people per hour 1800/2700Ft; h10am-
all infidels were barred. Its been a public vros, is full of cafs, clubs and restaurants
dusk Mar-Oct), next to the athletic stadium
cnr XXII Szabadkai t & Balatoni t; adult/child park since the mid-19th century. where university students entertain them-
as you walk from Margaret Bridge. Bringhint
600/400Ft; h10am-dusk; gfor Disd-rd Like the Buda Hills, Margaret Island is selves these days.
(Map pp2267; %329 2073, 06 30 881
Home to more than 40 busts, statues not overly endowed with important sights 0983; www.bringohinto.hu; mountain bike
and plaques of Lenin, Marx, Bla Kun and and landmarks. But boasting a couple of per half-hour/hour 590/990Ft, pedal coach
heroic workers that have ended up on
trash heaps in other former socialist coun-
large complexes, a thermal spa, gardens and for 4 people 1480/3380Ft, inline skates 880/ PEST TRANSPORT
shaded walkways, the island is a lovely place 1480Ft; h8am-dusk year-round) rents out
tries, Statue Park is a truly mind-blowing to head on a hot afternoon. equipment from the refreshment stand near Bus 7 to the Inner Town, 15 to the Inner Town,
place to visit. Ogle at the socialist realism Margaret Island is a great spot for sports the Japanese Garden in the northern part Inner North Town and Jzsefvros & Ferencvros;
and try to imagine that at least four of these and other activities, and you could spend of the island. 16, 105 to the Inner North Town
monstrous monuments were erected as the entire day here cycling, swimming or A twirl around the island in one of the Metro M1 to the Inner Town, Northern Inner
recently as the late 1980s; a few of them, in- just pampering yourself at the Danubius horse-drawn carriages (Map pp2267), sta- Town, Svent Istvn & Terzvros, Erzsbetvros,
cluding the Bla Kun memorial of our hero Grand Hotel Margitsziget (p158), one of the tioned just south of the Bringhint bike- Andrssy t and City Park; M2 to the Inner Town,
in a crowd by fence-sitting sculptor Imre most modern spas in Budapest. rental stand, costs from about 2000Ft per Northern Inner Town, Erzsbetvros, Jzsefvros &
Varga (p60), were still in place when this Margaret Island has two popular swim- person. Ferencvros and Andrssy t; M3 to the Inner Town,
author moved to Budapest in early 1992. ming pools on its western side. The first is Northern Inner Town, Svent Istvn & Terzvros,
To reach this socialist Disneyland, take the indoor/outdoor Alfrd Hajs National Sports Jzsefvros & Ferencvros and Andrssy t
tram 19 from I Batthyny tr in Buda, tram
49 from V Dek Ferenc tr in Pest or red-
Pool (Nemzeti Sportuszoda; Map pp21819;
XIII Margit-sziget), officially named after PEST Tram 2, 2/a to the Inner Town, Inner North Town
and Svent Istvn & Terzvros; 4, 6 to the Inner
numbered bus 7 from V Ferenciek tere in Eating p111; Sleeping p158; Shopping p143
Pest to the terminus at XI Etele tr. From While Buda can often feel like a garden, North Town, Svent Istvn & Terzvros, Erzs-
the square catch a yellow Voln bus from Pest is an urban jungle, with a wealth of ar- betvros, Jzsefvros & Ferencvros and Andrssy
stand 7 to Disd-rd; youll want to get off MARGARET ISLAND TRANSPORT chitecture, museums, historic buildings and t; 47, 49 to Jzsefvros & Ferencvros
at the fifth stop. Bus 26 to rpd Bridge from Nyugati train station broad boulevards that are unmatched on the Trolleybus 70, 72 to City Park; 74 to Erzsbetvros;
A direct bus costing 1950/1350Ft per Tram 4 or 6 to Margaret Bridge other side of the Danube. And while theres 76, 78, 79 to Svent Istvn & Terzvros and City Park
adult/child return departs from in front of nothing like the Buda Hills here, theres no
62 63
 and Nyugati tr, where Nyugati train station and Southern Transdanubia are well done,
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www.lonelyplanet.com
PEST TOP FIVE (Nyugati plyaudvar) is located. and there are some priceless objects col- LIFT US THIS DAY
lected from Transdanubia. On the 2nd floor,

Basilica of St Stephen (right) One of the strangest public conveyances youll ever
BASILICA OF ST STEPHEN Map p224 most of the temporary exhibitions deal

House of Terror (p71) encounter can still be found in a few office and gov-
with other peoples of Europe and further

Hungarian State Opera House (p71) Szent Istvn Bazilika; %311 0839, 338 2151; ernment buildings in Budapest. Theyre the krfog
afield. The building itself was designed in

Museum of Fine Arts (p71) V Szent Istvn tr; h9am-5pm & 7-8pm Mon-Fri, (rotator) lifts or elevators, nicknamed Pater Nosters
1893 to house the Supreme Court; note the

Parliament (opposite) 9am-1pm & 7-8pm Sat, 1-5pm & 7-8pm Sun; for their supposed resemblance to a large rosary. A
ceiling fresco of Justice by Kroly Lotz.
mM2 Arany Jnos utca Pater Noster is essentially a rotating series of in-
Budapests cathedral was built over the PARLIAMENT Map p222 dividual cubicles that runs continuously. You dont
INNER TOWN PARISH CHURCH course of half a century and completed in push a button and wait for a door to open; you hop
Orszghz; %441 4904, 441 4415; V Kossuth Lajos
Map p224 1905. Much of the interruption had to do on just as a cubicle reaches floor level and you jump
tr 1-3, Gate X; admission free for EU citizens, other out quickly when you reach your desired floor.
Belvrosi plbniatemplom; V Mrcius 15 tr 2; with the fiasco in 1868 when the dome
collapsed during a storm, and the structure nationalities adult/child 2300/1150Ft; English- If you were wondering what happens at the top,
j2 or 2/a
On the eastern side of Mrcius 15 tr, sit- had to be demolished and rebuilt from the language tours h10am, noon, 1pm, 2pm & 6pm stay on and find out. Dont worry youll live. The
ting uncomfortably close to the Elizabeth ground up. The basilica is rather dark and daily; mM2 Kossuth Lajos tr lift simply descends to the ground floor in darkness
Bridge flyover is where a Romanesque gloomy inside, but take a trip to the top of The Eclectic Parliament, designed by Imre to begin its next revolution. The most central Pater
church was first built in the 12th century the dome (adult/child 500/400Ft; h10am- Steindl and completed in 1902, has about Noster that you may or may not be able to ride
Sights

Sights
within a Roman fortress. You can still see 4.30pm Apr & May, 9.30am-6pm Jun-Aug, 700 sumptuously decorated rooms but is in the government building at V Vigad utca 6
a few bits of the fort, Contra Aquincum, in the 10am-5.30pm Sep & Oct), which can be youll only get to see three on a guided (Map p224).
small park to the north. The present church reached by lift and 146 steps and offers one tour of the North Wing: the main staircase
was rebuilt in the 14th and 18th centuries, of the best views in the city. and Domed Hall, where the Crown of St
NORTHERN INNER TOWN

NORTHERN INNER TOWN

and you can easily spot Gothic, Renais- To the right as you enter the basilica is a Stephen (below), the nations most import-
building crumbles. Members of Parliament
sance, baroque and even Turkish elements small treasury (kincstr; h9am-5pm Apr- ant national icon, is on display, along with
sit in the National Assembly Hall in the
both inside and out. Sep, 10am-4pm Oct-Mar) of ecclesiastical the ceremonial sword, orb and the oldest
South Wing from February to June and
objects. Behind the main altar and to the object among the coronation regalia, the
again from September to December. Tours
UNDERGROUND RAILWAY MUSEUM left is the basilicas major drawing card: 10th-century Persian-made sceptre with a
are available in six languages other than
the Holy Right Chapel (Szent Jobb kpolna; crystal head depicting a lion; the Loge Hall;
Map p224 Hungarian and English.
h9am-4.30pm Mon-Sat, 1-4.30pm Sun and the Congress Hall, where the House of
Fldalatti Vasti Mzeum; %461 6500; 1 BKV May-Sep, 10am-4pm Mon-Sat, 1-4.30pm Lords of the one-time bicameral assembly
ticket or adult/child 170/85Ft; h10am-5pm Sun Oct-Apr). It contains the Holy Right sat until 1944. The building is a blend of ROOSEVELT TR Map p224
Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-4pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar; (also known as the Holy Dexter), the mum- many architectural styles neo-Gothic, j2 or 2/a
mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc tr mified right hand of St Stephen and an neo-Romanesque, neobaroque and over- Roosevelt tr, named in 1947 after the
In the pedestrian subway beneath V Dek object of great devotion. It was returned all works very well. Unfortunately what was long-serving (193345) American president,
Ferenc tr and next to the main ticket to Hungary by Habsburg empress Maria spent on the design wasnt matched in the is at the foot of Chain Bridge and offers
window, the Underground Railway Mu- Theresa in 1771 after it was discovered in building materials. The ornate structure was among the best views of Castle Hill in Pest.
seum traces the history of the capitals a monastery in Bosnia. Like the Crown of surfaced with a porous form of limestone Reach it from Buda on bus 16 or 105.
three underground lines and displays plans St Stephen, it too was snatched by the bad that does not resist pollution very well. On the southern end of the square is a
for the future. Much emphasis is put on guys after WWII but was soon, er, handed Renovations began almost immediately statue of Ferenc Dek, the Hungarian minister
the little yellow metro (M1), Continental over to the rightful (ugh) owners. after it opened and will continue until the largely responsible for the Compromise of
Europes first underground railway, which English-language guided tours of
opened for the millenary celebrations in the basilica (with/without dome visit
1896 and was completely renovated for the
millecentenary 100 years later.
2000/1500Ft) depart weekdays at 9.30am,
11am, 2pm and 3.30pm and on Saturday at THE CROWN OF ST STEPHEN
9.30am and 11am. Legend tells us that it was Asztrik, the first abbot of the Benedictine monastery at Pannonhalma in Western Trans-
danubia, who presented a crown to Stephen as a gift from Pope Sylvester II around the year 1000, thus legitimising the
NORTHERN INNER TOWN ETHNOGRAPHY MUSEUM Map p222
new kings rule and assuring his loyalty to Rome over Constantinople. Its a nice story but has nothing to do with the
The Northern Inner Town (Map p224 and object on display in the Parliament building. That two-part crown, with its characteristic bent cross, pendants hanging
Map p222), which is more accurately called Nprajzi Mzeum; %473 2400; www.hem.hu; on either side and enamelled plaques of the Apostles, dates from the 12th century. Regardless of its provenance, the
Liptvros (Leopold Town), is full of offices, V Kossuth Lajos tr 12; admission free, temporary Crown of St Stephen has become the very symbol of the Hungarian nation.
government ministries, 19th-century apart- exhibitions adult/child/family from 500/200/1000Ft; The crown has disappeared several times over the centuries purloined or otherwise only to reappear later. During
ment blocks and grand squares. Its confines h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; mM2 Kossuth Lajos tr the Mongol invasions of the 13th century, the crown was dropped while being transported to a safe house, giving it
are, in effect, Szent Istvn krt to the north, Visitors are offered an easy introduction to that slightly skewed look. More recently, in 1945, Hungarian fascists fleeing ahead of the Soviet army took the crown to
V Jzsef Attila utca to the south, the Dan- traditional Hungarian life here, with thou- Austria. Eventually it fell into the hands of the US army, which transferred it to Fort Knox in Kentucky. In January 1978
ube to the west and, to the east, V Bajcsy- sands of displays in 13 rooms on the 1st the crown was returned to Hungary with great ceremony and relief. Because legal judgments had always been handed
Zsilinszky t, the arrow-straight boulevard floor. The mock-ups of peasant houses from down in the name of St Stephens Crown it was considered a living symbol and had thus been kidnapped.
that stretches from central Dek Ferenc tr the rsg and Srkz regions of Western
64 65
 15 years until departing for Vienna in 1971 Theresa is especially rewarding to explore
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(below). The embassy backs onto Hold utca on foot (p82).
(Moon St), which, until 1990, was named Terz krt carries on from Szent Istvn
Rosenberg hzaspr utca (Rosenberg krt after the Nyugati train station. The
Couple St) after the American husband and neighbourhood on either side of this section
wife Julius and Ethel Rosenberg who were of the ring road district VI is known as
executed as communist spies in the USA Terzvros (Teresa Town; Map p222) and
in 1953. was named in honour of Maria Teresa. It
THIS IMAGE On that street south of the embassy extends as far as VI Kirly utca and the start
NOT AVAILABLE youll find the sensational former Royal Postal
Savings Bank (V Hold utca 4), a Secessionist
of VII Erzsbet krt.

IN PICK & MIX extravaganza of colourful tiles and folk HOUSE OF HUNGARIAN
motifs built by dn Lechner (p21) in 1901.
It is now part of the National Bank of Hungary
PHOTOGRAPHERS Map p222
(Magyar Nemzeti Bank; V Szabadsg tr 8) Magyar Fotogrfusok Hza; %473 2666;
next door, which has reliefs that illustrate VI Nagymez utca 20; adult/senior & student
trade and commerce through history: 500/200Ft; h2-7pm Mon-Fri, 11am-7pm Sat &
Arab camel traders, African rug merchants, Sun; mM1 Opera
Sights

Sights
Chinese tea salesmen and the inevitable The House of Hungarian Photographers is
solicitor witnessing contracts. an extraordinary venue in the citys theatre
district with top-class photography exhi-

SZENT ISTVN KRT &

bitions. It is in delightful Mai Man Hz,
NORTHERN INNER TOWN

SZENT ISTVN KRT & TERZVROS

1867, which brought about the Dual Mon- Pauer. Its a simple affair 60 pairs of old- which was built in 1894 as a photo studio
archy of Austria and Hungary (p44). The style boots and shoes in cast iron, tossed TERZVROS and has the bizarre meaning Modern Devil
House.
statue on the western side is of an Austrian higgledy-piggledy on a bank of the river Szent Istvn krt (Map p222), the north-
and a Hungarian child holding hands in but it is one of the most poignant monu- ernmost stretch of the Big Ring Road in Pest,
peaceful bliss. The Magyar kids hair is ments yet unveiled in this city of so many runs in a westerly direction from Nyugati tr NYUGATI TRAIN STATION Map p222
tousled and he is naked; the Osztrk is tears. And when youve had your look to Margaret Bridge and the Danube. Its an Nyugati plyaudvar; %349 0115; VI Terz krt
demurely covered by a bit of the patricians around, considered how the authorities interesting street to stroll along, with many 55-57; mM3 Nyugati plyaudvar
robe and his hair neatly coifed. managed to round up so many Jews so fine Eclectic-style buildings decorated with The large iron and glass structure on Nyu-
The Art Nouveau building with the gold very quickly you mean there were actu- Atlases, reliefs and other details. The neigh- gati tr (known as Marx tr until the early
tiles to the east is Gresham Palace (V Roosevelt ally snitches and informants among the bourhood to the north of it, jliptvros 1990s) is the Nyugati train station, built in
tr 5-6), built by an English insurance brave and heroic souls of Budapest?!? (New Leopold Town; Map p222 and Map 1877 by the Paris-based Eiffel Company.
company in 1907. After a major overhaul, it and wondered what it must have been like pp21819), so called to distinguish it from In the early 1970s a train actually crashed
now houses the sumptuous Four Seasons to hit the water, drowning, with a bullet Liptvros (Leopold Town) in the North- through the enormous glass screen on the
Gresham Palace Hotel (p159), arguably the in your guts, look up to open sky and do ern Inner Town Archduke Leopold was main faade when its brakes failed, coming
citys finest hostelry. The Hungarian Academy of something the detainees of the glorious the grandson of Habsburg empress Maria to rest at the 4 and 6 tram line.
Sciences (Magyar Tudomnyos Akadmia; V 1000-year Reich could not do. Dont say,
Roosevelt tr 9), founded by Count Istvn but shout: Never! Never! Never again!
Szchenyi (p42), is at the northern end of Whoever wasnt listening 60 years ago just
the square. might have tuned in by now (but dont CARDINAL MINDSZENTY
count on it). Born Jzsef Pehm in the village of Csehimindszent near Szombathely in 1892, Mindszenty was politically active from
STATUES & MONUMENTS Map p222 the time of his ordination in 1915. Imprisoned under the short-lived regime of communist Bla Kun in 1919 and again
Southeast of V Kossuth Lajos tr is a statue SZABADSG TR Map p222 when the fascist Arrow Cross came to power in 1944, Mindszenty was made archbishop of Esztergom (and thus primate
of Imre Nagy (V Vrtank tere; mM2 Kossuth g15 of Hungary) in 1945 and cardinal the following year.
Lajos tr), the reformist communist prime Independence Square, one of the largest When the new cardinal refused to secularise Hungarys Roman Catholic schools under the new communist regime
minister executed in 1958 for his role in in the city, is a few minutes walk northeast in 1948, he was arrested, tortured and sentenced to life imprisonment for treason. Released during the 1956 Uprising,
the Uprising two years earlier (p47). It was of Roosevelt tr. In the centre is a memorial Mindszenty took refuge in the US embassy on Szabadsg tr when the communists returned to power. There he would
unveiled with great ceremony in the sum- to the Soviet army, one of the very few still remain until 1971.
mer of 1996. left in Budapest. As relations between the Kdr regime and the Holy See began to thaw in the late 1960s, the Vatican made several
Further south from the same square is At the eastern side of the square is the requests for the cardinal to leave Hungary, which he refused to do. Following the intervention of US president Richard
a new monument to Hungarian Jews shot fortress-like US Embassy (V Szabadsg tr 12), Nixon, Mindszenty left for Vienna, where he continued to criticise the Vaticans relations with the regime in Hungary.
and thrown into the Danube by members now cut off from the square by high metal He retired in 1974 and died the following year. But as he had vowed not to return to Hungary until the last Russian
of the fascist Arrow Cross Party (p46) in fencing and concrete blocks. It was here soldier had left Hungarian soil, Mindszentys remains were not returned until May 1991. This was actually several weeks
1944 entitled Shoes on the Danube (V Pesti that Cardinal Jzsef Mindszenty sought ref- before that pivotal date.
als rakpart; j2 or 2/a) by sculptor Gyula uge after the 1956 Uprising and stayed for
66 67
 ERZSBETVROS and everyday life, and an interesting hand- worked. Theres also a display on the nest- amic tiles, was completed for the Millenary
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written book of the local Burial Society from ing platforms that the electric company Exhibition (1896) but was badly damaged
The Big Ring Road slices district VII, also
the 18th century. The Holocaust Memorial kindly builds for storks throughout the during WWII and again in 1956. The gal-
called Erzsbetvros (Elizabeth Town; Map
Room relates the events of 194445, includ- country so they wont try to nest on the leries of the Applied Arts Museum, which
p222 and Map p224), in half between two
ing the infamous mass murder of doctors wires and electrocute themselves. surround a central hall of white marble
busy squares: Oktogon and Blaha Lujza
and patients at a hospital on Maros utca. supposedly modelled on the Alhambra in
tr. The eastern side is a rather poor area
English-language tours (adult/student & MIKSA RTH MEMORIAL HOUSE southern Spain, usually contain a wonderful
(though developing fast) with little of in-
child 1900/1600Ft) are available hourly from array of Hungarian furniture dating from the
terest to travellers except the Keleti train Map pp218-19
10.30am to 1.30pm or 3.30pm Monday to 18th and 19th centuries, Art Nouveau and
station (Keleti plyaudvar; Map pp21819) Rth Miksa Emlkhz; %341 6789, 413 6147; VII
Thursday and 10.30am to 12.30pm Friday Secessionist artefacts, and objects related to
on Baross tr. The western side, bounded Nefelejcs utca 26; adult/child 200/100Ft; h2-6pm
and Sunday. the history of trades and crafts (glass mak-
by the Little Ring Road, has always been Tue-Sat; mM2 Keleti plyaudvar
On the synagogues north side, the ing, bookbinding, gold-smithing, leather-
predominantly Jewish, and this was the This fabulous museum exhibits the work of
Holocaust Memorial (Map p224; VII Wesselnyi work etc). However, the last time we visited
ghetto where Jews were forced to live be- the eponymous Art Nouveau stained-glass
utca) stands over the mass graves of those there were only temporary exhibitions on
hind wooden fences when the Nazis oc- maker Rth (18651944) on two floors of
murdered by the Nazis in 194445. On the display and the permanent collections
cupied Hungary in 1944. the house and workshop where he lived
leaves of the metal tree of life are the fam- were closed. Nice way to rake in the dosh;
ily names of some of the 400,000 victims. and worked from 1911 until his death. Less instead, visit the museums European furni-
GREAT SYNAGOGUE Map p224 well known are the masters stunning mo- ture exhibit at Nagyttny Castle Museum (p62).
Sights

Sights
Nagy zsinagga; VII Dohny utca 2-8; admission saics. Roths dark brown, almost forebod-
300Ft; h10am-5pm Mon-Thu, 10am-2pm Fri, HUNGARIAN ELECTROTECHNOLOGY ing, living quarters stand in sharp contrast HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL CENTER
10am-2pm Sun mid-AprOct, 10am-3pm Mon-Thu, MUSEUM Map p224 to the lively, technicolour creations that Map pp228-9
10am-2pm Fri, 10am-2pm Sun Novmid-Apr; Magyar Elektrotechnikai Mzeum; %322 0472; emerged from his workshop.
Holokauszt Emlkkzpont; %455 3348; www.hdke
ERZSBETVROS

JZSEFVROS & FERENCVROS

mM2 Astoria VII Kazinczy utca 21; admission free; h11am-5pm
.hu; IX Pva utca 39; admission free; h10am-6pm
Tue-Sat; mM2 Astoria
The Great Synagogue is the largest Jewish
house of worship in the world outside New This place doesnt sound like everyones JZSEFVROS & Tue-Sun; mM3 Ferenc krt
This centre, housed in a striking modern
York City and can seat 3000 of the faithful.
Built in 1859, it contains both Romantic-
cup of tea, but the staff are very enthusi-
astic and some of the exhibits are unusual
FERENCVROS building in a working-class neighbourhood
enough for a visit. Its collection of 19th-
From Blaha Lujza tr, the Big Ring Road of Ferencvros, opened in 2004 on the 60th
style and Moorish architectural elements.
runs through district VIII, also called Jz- anniversary of the start of the holocaust in
Concerts are held here in summer. century generators, condensers, motors
sefvros (Joseph Town; Map p222 and Map Hungary. Both a museum and an educa-
In an annexe of the synagogue is the and egad the world largest supply
pp21819). The western side of the district tional foundation, the centre displays pages
Jewish Museum (Zsid Mzeum; %342 8949; of electricity-consumption meters is not
from the harrowing Auschwitz Album,
transforms itself from a neighbourhood of
VII Dohny utca 2; synagogue & museum very inspiring, but the staff will show you an unusual collection of photographs
lovely 19th-century townhouses and villas
adult/student & child 1000/400Ft; hsame), how the alarm system of the barbed-wire documenting the transport, internment
around the Little Ring Road to a large stu-
which contains objects related to religious fence between Hungary and Austria once and extermination of Hungarian Jews that
dent quarter. East of the boulevard is the
once rough-and-tumble district so poign- was found by a camp survivor after libera-
antly described in the Pressburger brothers tion. In the central courtyard, a sublimely
RAOUL WALLENBERG, RIGHTEOUS GENTILE Homage to the Eighth District (p23), and restored synagogue designed by Leopold
Of all the righteous gentiles honoured by Jews around the world, the most revered is Raoul Wallenberg, the Swedish where much of the fighting in October 1956 Baumhorn and completed in 1924 hosts
diplomat and businessman who rescued as many as 35,000 Hungarian Jews during WWII. took place. Today it is being developed at temporary exhibitions.
Wallenberg, who came from a long line of bankers and diplomats, began working in 1936 for a trading firm whose breakneck speed and the reverberation of
president was a Hungarian Jew. In July 1944 the Swedish Foreign Ministry, at the request of Jewish and refugee organ- pile-drivers is constant. HUNGARIAN NATIONAL MUSEUM
isations in the USA, sent the 32-year-old Wallenberg on a rescue mission to Budapest as an attach to the embassy The neighbourhood south of lli t is Map p224
there. By that time, almost half a million Jews in Hungary had been sent to Nazi death camps. Ferencvros (Francis Town; Map pp21819
Magyar Nemzeti Mzeum; %338 2122, 317 7806;
Wallenberg immediately began issuing Swedish safe-conduct passes (called Wallenberg passports) from the and Map pp2289), home of the citys most
popular football team, Ferencvrosi Torna www.mnm.hu; VIII Mzeum krt 14-16; admission
former Swedish embassy (Map pp2289; Minerva utca 3a/b; g27) on Gellrt Hill, which bears a plaque attesting
Club (Ferencvros; p140), and many of its free, temporary exhibitions adult/child 700/350Ft;
to the heroism of Wallenberg and the less well-known diplomats Carl-Ivan Danielsson (18801963) and Per Anger
(19132002). He also set up a series of safe houses flying the flag of Sweden and other neutral countries where Jews tough, green-and-white-clad supporters. h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; j47 or 49
could seek asylum. He even followed German death marches and deportation trains, distributing food and clothing The National Museum contains Hungarys
and actually pulling some 500 people off the cars along the way. APPLIED ARTS MUSEUM Map pp218-19 most important collection of historical relics
When the Soviet army entered Budapest in January 1945, Wallenberg went to report to the authorities but in the in a large neoclassical structure purpose-
Iparmvszeti Mzeum; %456 5100; www.imm built in 1847. On the 1st floor exhibits trace
wartime confusion was arrested for espionage and sent to Moscow. In the early 1950s, responding to reports that Wal- .hu; IX lli t 33-37; admission free, temporary
lenberg had been seen alive in a labour camp, the Soviet Union announced that he had in fact died of a heart attack in the history of the Carpathian Basin from
exhibitions adult/child 600/300Ft; h10am-6pm earliest times to the arrival of the Avars
1947. Several reports over the next two decades suggested Wallenberg was still alive, but none was ever confirmed.
Many believe Wallenberg was executed by the Soviets, who suspected him of spying for the USA. A statue called the Tue-Sun; mM3 Ferenc krt during the 9th century; 2nd-floor displays
Serpent Slayer in honour of Raoul Wallenberg by Pl Ptzay stands in XIII Szent Istvn Park (Map pp21819). This stunning building, designed by dn deal with the Magyar people to 1849 and
Lechner and decorated with Zsolnay cer- Hungary in the 19th and 20th centuries.
68 69
 Look out for: the enormous 3rd-century tect Mria Sikls, is supposedly Eclectic to Most of the Chinese and Japanese collec- tral courtyard is a jarring introduction, and
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Roman mosaic from Balcapuszta, near mirror other great Budapest buildings of tion of ceramics and porcelain, textiles and the wall displaying many of the victims
Veszprm in Central Transdanubia, at the that style (Gellrt Hotel, Gresham Palace, sculpture is housed in the Gyrgy Rth Museum photos speaks volumes. But even more har-
foot of the central staircase; the crimson silk Parliament). But in reality it is a pick-and- (Rth Gyrgy Mzeum; %342 3916; VI rowing are the reconstructed prison cells
royal coronation robe (or mantle) stitched mix jumble sale of classical and folk motifs, Vrosligeti fasor 12; adult/child 400/250Ft; and the final Perpetrators Gallery, featuring
by nuns at Veszprm; the reconstructed porticoes, balconies and columns on the h10am-6pm Tue-Sun), in a gorgeous Art photographs of the turncoats, spies, tortur-
3rd-century Roman villa from Pannonia; outside that just does not work and cer- Nouveau residence a few minutes south ers and cogs-in-the-wheel, many of them
the treasury room with pre-Conquest gold tainly will date fast. But then they said that down Bajza utca. still alive, who allowed or caused these
jewellery; a second treasury room with later about the Parliament building in 1902. Par- atrocities to take place.
gold objects (including the 11th-century ticularly odd is the ziggurat-like structure FRANZ LISZT MEMORIAL MUSEUM
Monomachus crown); a stunning baroque outside whose ramps lead to nowhere. Map p222 HUNGARIAN STATE OPERA HOUSE
library; and Beethovens Broadwood piano. Map p222
Liszt Ferenc Emlkmzeum; %322 9804; VI Vrs-
ZWACK UNICUM MUSEUM & Magyar llami Operahz; %332 8197; www
HUNGARIAN NATURAL HISTORY marty utca 35; adult/child 400/250Ft; h10am-6pm
VISITOR CENTRE Map pp228-9 .operavisit.hu; VI Andrssy t 22; adult/student
Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat; mM1 Vrsmarty utca
MUSEUM Map pp228-9 Zwack Unicum Mzeum s Ltogat Kzpont; This museum is in the building where the 2400/1200Ft; hEnglish-language tours 3pm &
Magyar Termszettudomnyi Mzeum; %210 1085; %476 2383; www.zwackunicum.hu in Hungarian; great composer lived in a 1st-floor apart- 4pm; mM1 Opera
www.nhmus.hu; VIII Ludovika tr 2-6; admission IX Dandr utca 2; adult/child 1500/850Ft; h1-5pm ment from 1881 until his death in 1886. The neo-Renaissance Hungarian State
Sights

Sights
free, temporary exhibitions adult/child 1000/600Ft; Mon-Fri; j2 The four rooms are filled with his pianos Opera House, among the citys most beau-
h10am-6pm Wed-Mon; mM3 Klinikk If you really cant get enough of Unicum, (including a tiny glass one), the composers tiful buildings, was designed by Mikls Ybl
Just one metro stop southeast of the the thick brown medicinal-tasting bitter table, portraits and personal effects. in 1884. If you cannot attend a concert
Ferenc krt station, the Natural History aperitif made from 40 herbs and weighing or an opera, join one of the guided tours,
ANDRSSY T

ANDRSSY T
Museum has lots of hands-on interactive in at 42% alcohol and supposedly named HOUSE OF TERROR Map p222 which usually includes a brief musical
displays over three floors. The geological by Franz Joseph himself (see p30), visit this Terror Hza; %374 2600; www.terrorhaza.hu; performance. Tickets are available from the
park in front of the museum is well de- very commercial museum tracing the his- souvenir shop on the eastern side of the
Andrssy t 60; adult/child 1200/600Ft; h10am-
signed and theres an interesting exhibit tory of the product since it was first made building facing Hajs utca.
focusing on both the natural resources in 1790 and inviting visitors to buy big at 6pm Tue-Fri, 10am-7.30pm Sat & Sun; mM1
Vrsmarty utca
of the Carpathian Basin and the flora and its mintabolt (sample store).
This museum, housed in the same building MILLENARY MONUMENT Map pp218-19
fauna of Hungarian legends and tales.
that served as headquarters of the dreaded Ezerves Emlkm; mM1 Hsk tere
LUDWIG MUSEUM OF ANDRSSY T VH secret police (p47), purports to focus
on the crimes and atrocities committed by
In the centre of Hsk tere (Heroes Sq),
which is at the northern end of Andrssy
CONTEMPORARY ART Map pp228-9 Andrssy t (Map pp21819 and Map p222), t and in effect forms the entrance to City
listed as a Unesco World Heritage Site, starts both Hungarys fascist and Stalinist re-
Kortrs Mvszeti Mzeum; %555 3444; www gimes, but the latter, particularly the years Park, is this 36m-high pillar backed by col-
a short distance north of Dek Ferenc tr onnades to the right and left. Topping the
.ludwigmuseum.hu; IX Komor Marcell utca 1; and stretches for 2.5km to the northeast, after WWII leading up to the 1956 Uprising,
admission free, temporary exhibitions adult/child gets the lions share of the exhibition space pillar is the Angel Gabriel, who is holding
ending at Hsk tere and Vrosliget, Pests the Hungarian crown and a cross. At the
1000/500Ft; h10am-6pm Tue, Fri & Sun, noon- sprawling City Park. Andrssy t is such (almost three dozen rooms, halls and corri-
dors over three floors). The tank in the cen- base are rpd and the six other Magyar
6pm Wed, noon-8pm Thu, 10am-8pm Sat; j2 a pretty boulevard and theres so much to chieftains who occupied the Carpathian
Budapests most important collection of enjoy en route that the best way to see it is Basin in the late 9th century. The 14 statues
contemporary art has moved from the on foot (p86), though the M1 metro runs in the colonnades are of rulers and states-
Royal Palace on Castle Hill to the palatial beneath Andrssy t from Dek Ferenc tr men from King Stephen on the left to
(and equally controversial) Palace of Arts as far as the City Park if you tire out. Lajos Kossuth on the right. The four alle-
(Mvszetek Palotja; p131) opposite the
gorical figures atop are (from left to right):
National Theatre. The museum is the only ASIAN ART MUSEUMS Map pp218-19 Work and Prosperity; War; Peace; Knowl-
one collecting and exhibiting international
mM1 Bajza utca edge and Glory.
contemporary art, and shows works by
THIS IMAGE
The Andrssy t area has two fine museums
American, Russian, German and French devoted to Asian arts and crafts within easy MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS Map pp218-19
artists from the past 50 years and Hungar- walking distance of one another. The Ferenc NOT AVAILABLE Szpmvszeti Mzeum; %469 7100, 363 2675;
IN PICK & MIX
ian, Czech, Slovakian, Romanian, Polish and Hopp Museum of East Asian Art (Hopp Ferenc
Slovenian works from the 1990s onward. Kelet-zsiai Mvszeti Mzeum; %322 www.szepmuveszeti.hu; XIV Dzsa Gyrgy t 41;
8476; VI Andrssy t 103; adult/child admission free, temporary exhibitions adult/child
NATIONAL THEATRE Map pp228-9 400/200Ft; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun) is in the 1200/600Ft; h10am-5.30pm Tue-Sun; mM1
Nemzeti Sznhz; %476 6800; www.nemzeti former villa of its benefactor and namesake. Hsk tere
szinhaz.hu; IX Bajor Gizi park 1; j2 Founded in 1919, the museum has a good The citys outstanding collection of foreign
The National Theatre by the Danube in collection of Indonesian wayang (shadow) art works is housed in this renovated
southwestern Ferencvros opened in 2002 puppets, Indian statuary and Lamaist building dating from 1906. The Old Mas-
to much controversy. The design, by archi- sculpture and scroll paintings from Tibet. ters collection is the most complete, with
70 71
 thousands of works from the Dutch and
CITY PARK
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Flemish, Spanish, Italian, German, French
and British schools between the 13th and
Vrosliget (City Park; Map pp21819) is BUDAPEST FOR CHILDREN
Pests green lung, an open space measuring Budapest abounds in places and sights that will delight children, and there is always a special childs entry rate to
18th centuries, including seven paintings
almost a square kilometre that hosted most paying attractions (though ages of eligibility may vary).
by El Greco. Other sections include Egyp-
of the events during Hungarys 1000th anni- Kids love transport and the citys many unusual forms of conveyance from the Cog and Childrens Railways
tian and Graeco-Roman artefacts and 19th-
versary celebrations in 1896. Its not so cut (p61) in the Buda Hills and the Sikl (p53) funicular climbing up to Castle Hill to the trams, trolleybuses and little M1
and 20th-century paintings, watercolours,
and dried, but in general museums lie to the metro will fascinate and entertain. And dont forget the Transport Museum (below). It has got an embarrassment
graphics and sculptures, including some
south of XIV Ks Kroly stny, while act- of hands-on displays for kids of all ages.
important impressionist works. Free tours
ivities of a less cerebral nature including the Specific places to take children include the following:
of key galleries are available in English at
Municipal Great Circus (opposite), Funfair Budapest Eye (Budapest Kilt; Map p222; %238 7623; VI Vci t 1-3; adult/child/student & senior/family
11am Tuesday to Friday.
Park (opposite) and Szchenyi Baths (p136) 3000/1000/2000/6000Ft; h10am-10pm Sun-Thu, 10am-midnight Sat & Sun; mM3 Nyugati plyaudvar) This at-
are to the north.
MCSARNOK Map pp218-19 traction exaggerates just a titch when it claims The Budapest Eye is to Budapest what the Eiffel Tower is to Paris and
Palace of Art; %460 7014, 363 2671; www.mucsar the London Eye to London. Huh? In reality, its just a hot-air balloon tethered to ropes in a lot between the Nyugati
CITY ZOO & BOTANICAL GARDEN train station and the West End City Center mall that is allowed to ascend to 150m for some hair-raising views over
nok.hu; XIV Dzsa Gyrgy t 37; 3-D film adult/
Map pp218-19 Budapest. But the kids will love it.
child 1000/500F, exhibitions & film 1500/500Ft;
Vrosi llatkert s Nvnykert; %273 4900, 363 Budapest Puppet Theatre (Budapesti Bbsznhz; Map p222; %342 2702, 321 5200; www.budapest-babszinhaz
h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; mM1 Hsk tere
Mcsarnok is the among the citys largest 3701; www.zoobudapest.com; XIV llatkerti t 6-12; .hu; VI Andrssy t 69; tickets 500-1100Ft; mM1 Vrsmarty utca) The puppet theatre, which usually doesnt
Sights

Sights
exhibition spaces and hosts temporary adult/child/student/family 1300/900/1000/4100Ft; require fluency in Hungarian, presents shows designed for children on weekdays (usually at 10am or 10.30am and
exhibitions of works by Hungarian and h9am-6.30pm Mon-Thu, 9am-7pm Fri-Sun May- 4pm) and folk programmes for adults occasionally in the evening.
foreign artists in fine and applied art, photo- Aug, 9am-5.30pm Mon-Thu, 9am-6pm Fri-Sun Apr & Funfair Park (Vidmpark; Map pp21819; %363 8310, 363 2660; www.vidampark.hu; XIV llatkerti krt 14-16;
graphy and design. Concerts are sometimes under/over 120cm free/300Ft, rides 300-600Ft; h10am-8pm daily Jul & Aug, 11am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat
CITY PARK

CITY PARK
Sep, 9am-5pm Mon-Thu, 9am-5.30pm Fri-Sun Mar &
staged here as well. A 3-D film that whisks Oct, 9am-4pm daily Nov-Feb & Sun May & Jun, 11am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun Apr & Sep, 11am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6.30pm Sat &
you around Hungary in 25 minutes (with The large zoo and Botanical Garden, a five- Sun Mar & Oct; mM1 Szchenyi frd) This 150-year-old luna park sits on 2.5 hectares of land next to the Municipal
commentary available in seven languages) minute walk northeast of Hsk tere along Great Circus. Theres a couple of dozen thrilling rides, including the heart-stopping Ikarus Space Needle, the looping
is screened continuously from 10am to llatkerti t, has a collection of some 3700 Star roller coaster and the Hip-Hop freefall tower, as well as go-karts, dodgem cars and a carousel built in 1906.
5pm Tuesday to Sunday mid-March to Sep- animals (big cats, rhinos, hippopotamuses), Municipal Great Circus (Fvrosi Nagycirkusz; Map pp21819; %344 6008, 343 8300; www.maciva.hu in Hungar-
tember and from 10am to 4.30pm Friday to but some visitors come here just to look at ian; XIV llatkerti krt 7; adult 1200-1900Ft, child 900-1500Ft; mM1 Szchenyi frd) Performances at Budapests
Sunday from October to mid-March. the Secessionist animal houses built in the circus, Europes only permanent big top, are at 3pm from Wednesday to Sunday, with additional shows at 10.30am
early part of the 20th century, such as the on Saturday and Sunday and at 7pm on Saturday.
POSTAL MUSEUM Map p224 Elephant House (1912) with pachyderm heads Palace of Miracles (Csodk Palotja; Map pp21819; %350 6131; www.csodapalota.hu; XIII Vci t 19; adult/
Postamzeum; %269 6838; VI Andrssy t 3; in beetle-green Zsolnay ceramic and the child/family 800/700/2300Ft; h10am-6pm Jul & Aug, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun Sep-Jun; mM3
adult/child 200/150Ft; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; Palm House (admission 300Ft extra, including Lehel tr) This is a wonderfully thought-out interactive playhouse for children of all ages with smart toys and
aquarium), which was erected by the Eiffel
mM1 Bajcsy-Zsilinszky t puzzles, most of which have a scientific bent.
The museum exhibits the contents of ori- Company of Paris.
Planetarium (Map pp2289; %263 1811, 265 0725; www.planetarium.hu in Hungarian; X Npliget; adult/child
ginal 19th-century post offices old uni- 940/840Ft; hshows 9.30am, 11am, 1pm, 2.30pm & 4pm Tue-Sun; mM3 Npliget) This large planetarium has
forms and coaches, those big curved brass HUNGARIAN AGRICULTURAL star shows as well as 3-D films and cartoons.
horns etc that probably wont do much MUSEUM Map pp218-19
for you. But the museum is housed in the Magyar Mezgazdasgi Mzeum; %422 0765, 363
seven-room apartment of a wealthy late-
19th-century businessman and is among
50997; www.mmgm.hu; XIV Vajdahunyad stny; STATUES & MONUMENTS Map pp218-19 III who wrote a history of the early Magyars.
admission free, temporary exhibitions adult/child City Park boasts a number of notable Note the pen with the shiny tip in his hand;
the best-preserved in the city.
550/300Ft; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun mid-Feb statues and monuments. Americans (and writers (both real and aspirant) touch it for
mid-Nov, 10am-4pm Tue-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun collectors of greenbacks) will be amused inspiration.
ZOLTN KODLY MEMORIAL to see a familiar face in the park south
MUSEUM Map p222 mid-Novmid-Feb; mM1 Hsk tere
This rather esoteric museum is housed in of the lake. The statue of George Washington TRANSPORT MUSEUM Map pp218-19
Kodly Zoltn Emlkmzeum; %352 7106; the stunning baroque wing of Vajdahunyad (Washington Gyrgy stny) was erected Kzlekedsi Mzeum; %273 3840; XIV Vrosligeti
VI Kodly krnd 1; adult/child 200/100Ft; h10am- Castle, built for the 1896 millenary celebra- by Hungarian Americans in 1906. The little
church opposite Vajdahunyad Castle (ie
krt 11; admission free, temporary exhibitions
4pm Wed, 10am-6pm Thu-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun; tions on the little island in the parks lake adult/child 400/200Ft; h10am-5pm Tue-Fri,
the agricultural museum) is called Jk Chapel
mM1 Kodly krnd and modelled after a fortress in Transylvania 10am-6pm Sat & Sun May-Sep, 10am-4pm Tue-Fri,
In the flat where the great composer lived (but with Gothic, Romanesque and baroque (Jki kpolna) because its intricate portal
from 1924 until his death in 1967 is the wings and additions to reflect architectural was copied from the 13th-century Abbey 10am-5pm Sat & Sun Oct-Apr; trolleybus 72 or 74
Zoltn Kodly Memorial Museum, with four styles from all over Hungary). Here youll Church in Jk in Western Transdanubia. In an old and a new wing, this museum
rooms bursting with furniture, furnishings find Europes largest collection of things The statue of the hooded figure south of has scale models of ancient trains (some
and other personal items. One room is agricultural (fruit production, cereals, wool, the chapel is that of Anonymous, the un- of which still run), classic late-19th-century
devoted to Kodlys manuscripts. poultry, pig slaughtering, viticulture etc). known chronicler at the court of King Bla automobiles and lots of those old wooden
72 73
 Lonely Planet Publications
bicycles called bone-rattlers. There are a diesel train leaves Nyugati train station
www.lonelyplanet.com

few hands-on exhibits and lots of show- for the park four times a day at 9.45am,
and-tell from the attendants. Outside are 10.45am, 1.45pm and 3.45pm and returns at
pieces from the original Danube bridges 1.13pm and 3.13pm. The fare is included in
that were retrieved after the bombings of the admission price.
WWII and a caf in an old MV coach. The
museums air and space-travel collection KEREPES CEMETERY Map p216
is housed in the Aviation Museum (Replsi Kerepesi temet; %333 9125, 314 1269; Fiumei
Mzeum; Map pp21819; %363 4016; t 16; h7am-8pm May-Jul, 7am-7pm Apr & Aug,
XIV Zichy Mihly utca 14; admission free;
7am-6pm Sep, 7am-5pm Oct-Mar; j24
h10am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun
mid-Maymid-Oct; trolleybus 72) in the About 500m southeast of Keleti station
nearby Petfi Csarnok (p133). is the entrance to Budapests equivalent
of Highgate or Pre Lachaise cemeteries,
which was established in 1847. Some of the
OUTER PEST DISTRICTS mausoleums in this 56-hectare necropolis,
which is also called the National Graveyard
Unusual sights and museums in several of
(Nemzeti Srkert), are worthy of a pharaoh,
Pests outer districts will be of interest to
especially those of statesmen and national
Sights

lager louts, train spotters, rock hounds and

heroes such as Lajos Kossuth, Ferenc Dek
necrophiliacs.
and Lajos Batthyny. Other tombs are
quite moving (eg those of the actress Lujza
DREHER BREWERY & BEER MUSEUM
OUTER PEST DISTRICTS

Blaha and the poet Endre Ady). Plot 21

Dreher Srmzeum; %432 9700, 432 9850; contains the graves of many who died in
www.dreher.hu; X Jszbernyi utca 7-11; museum/ the 1956 Uprising. Near the huge mauso-
museum & film/museum, film & beer tasting leum for party honchos, which is topped
300/800/1300Ft; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm with the words I lived for Communism, for
Sat & Sun; mM3 rs vezr tere then g85 the people, is the simple grave of Jnos
Budapests and Hungarys largest beer Kdr, who died in 1989 (p48). Near the
maker has a museum at its brewery where entrance is the new Tribute Museum (Kegyeleti
you can look at displays of brewing and Mzeum; h10am-3pm Mon-Thu, 10am-
bottling over the centuries, watch a film 1pm Fri, every 2nd Sat & Sun in Jul & Aug),
about beer-making and/or get stuck into which looks (grimly) at the Hungarian way
a generous tasting session. The brewery is of death.
about 7km east of the city centre.
NEW MUNICIPAL CEMETERY
HUNGARIAN RAILWAY HISTORY j Kztemet; %265 2458; X Kozma utca;
PARK Map pp226-7 h8am-7pm; j28
Magyar Vasttrtneti Park; %428 0180, 450 This huge city cemetery, reached by tram
from Blaha Lujza tr, is where Imre Nagy,
1497; www.lokopark.hu; XIV Tatai t 95; adult/ prime minister during the 1956 Uprising,
child/family 900/300/1800Ft; h10am-6pm Tue- and 2000 others were buried in unmarked
Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-3pm Tue-Sun Novmid-Dec & graves (plots 300301) after executions in
mid-MarApr; g30, j14 the late 1940s and 1950s. Today, the area
This mostly outdoor museum contains more has been turned into a moving National
than 100 locomotives (most of them still Pantheon and is about a 30-minute walk from
working) and an exhibition on the history of the entrance; follow the signs pointing the
the railroad in Hungary. Theres a wonderful way to 300, 301 parcela. At peak periods
array of hands-on activities mostly involv- you can take a microbus marked temet
ing getting behind the wheel for kids. jrat around the cemetery or hire a taxi at
From early April to late October a vintage the gate.
Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - Do the right thing with our content.
74 75
 Lonely Planet Publications

Walking Tours

Castle Caper 76
budas Made for Walkin 79
Margaret Island Hopper 80
In the Steps of St Steve 82
Elizabeth Town Tailored Tour 83
Working Through the VIII & IX Districts 85
Andrssy Amble 86
Inner Town in Stride 88
74
 Walking Tours
tr, named after John Capistranus (13861456), a charismatic Franciscan monk who raised

www.lonelyplanet.com
an entire army for Jnos Hunyadi (p40) in his campaign against the Turks. He was canonised
in 1724 and is known as St John of Capistrano.
The large white building to the north of the square houses the Military History Museum 10
(p56). Around the corner, along the so-called Anjou Bastion (Anjou bstya), with displays
detailing the development of the cannon, lies the turban-topped tomb 11 of Pasha Abdi Ar-
Budapest is a city made for walking and there are sights around every corner from a naut Abdurrahman (161586), the last Turkish Grand Vizier of Budapest, who was killed
brightly tiled gem of an Art Nouveau building to peasant women from the countryside here on the day Buda was liberated. He was a heroic foe, reads the tablet in Hungarian,
hawking their homemade barack lekvr (apricot jam) or colourful embroidery at the mar- may he rest in peace.
kets or outside metro stations. The big steeple on the south side of Kapi-
The following eight tours include sights and attractions described elsewhere in this sztrn tr, visible for kilometres to the west
WALK FACTS

guide, as well as additional significant features; the walks are really designed for those of Castle Hill, is the Mary Magdalene Tower (12;
with more time or an interest in seeing the city in greater depth. Dont worry about doing Magdolna-torony; I Kapisztrn tr), the re- Start II Moszkva tr
every tour or even finishing each one; linger as long as you like in a museum or market constructed spire of an 18th-century church. End I Szarvas tr
that takes your fancy, do a little shopping or even visit one of the citys fine thermal spas The church, once reserved for Hungarian Distance 3.5km
along the way. speakers in this district (German speakers Duration Two hours (or more)
worshipped at Matthias Church), was used Transport mM2 (start); d18, g86 (end)
as a mosque during the Turkish occupation

Fuel Stop Ruszwurm caf (p125)
CASTLE CAPER and was destroyed in an air raid in 1944.

Walking Tours
You can start your tour of Vrhegy (Castle Hill; p53) by walking up Vrfok utca from
Moszkva tr to Vienna Gate 1 (Bcsi kapu), the medieval entrance to the Old Town, which Moszkva tr
Vrfok u
was rebuilt in 1936 to mark the 250th anniversary of the retaking of the castle from the u
y Lovas t Hu
Turks. The gate is not all that huge, but when Budapest children are loquacious or noisy, M
tra
11 1 Bcsi kapu
nfa
lvy
u

a
their parents tell them: Your mouth is as big as the Vienna Gate!. jou
bsty 2
T
tr
Vzivros
An nc (Watertown)
The large building to the west with the superb majolica-tiled roof contains the National ann
3 sic
sM

CASTLE CAPER
erm 4 u
Archives (2; Orszgos Levltr; Bcsi kapu tr 2-4), built in 1920. Across the square, which was 10
Kapisztrn Pet r u ard
b K
5 u
6

Fo
a weekend market in the Middle Ages, a Lutheran church 3 with the words A Mighty Fortress tr

Or

rtu
12

sz

na
T
is Our God written in Hungarian marks the start of Tncsics Mihly utca. On the west

gh

u
th

z
13 9 8 Hess
side of the square, theres an attractive group of burgher houses 4; No 7 has four medallions of

u
Andrs

k tuna
tr

ds

or
z
classical poets and philosophers, and No 8, a curious round corner window.

u F
t

iu
7

ny
Tncsics Mihly utca is a narrow street of little houses painted in lively hues and adorned 19

da

F u
r
D
Szenthromsg 17
with statues. Many have plaques with the word memlk (memorial) attesting to their his- Vrmez
tr 18 20

Dan
torical associations. In the entrances to many of the courtyards, youll notice lots of sedilia 16

ube
21

At
stone niches dating as far back as the 13th

til

Buda
au
u

Riv
century. Some historians think they were 15 na
Szenthromsg u An

er
i
als
used as merchant stalls, while others believe
A STREET BY ANY OTHER NAME
14

rkp
servants cooled their heels here while their T
rn
ok
masters (or mistresses) paid a visit to the After WWII, most streets, squares and parks were u yi
hen e
Szc Bridg
occupant. renamed after people, dates and political groups Dsz
Ro Cha
in
tr 23 ya Tram Stop d)
nch
The medieval Jewish prayer house 5 (p55), that have since become anathema to an independ- l No 19 yi l

Sznh
22 chen

St
(Sz

ep
Clark
dating partly from the 14th century, con- ent and democratic Hungary. From April 1989, names

s
z u
24 dm tr
tains a small museum. Across the road to were changed at a pace and with a determination Szent Gyrgy

Bud
tr
the southeast at Tncsics Mihly utca 9 is that some people felt was almost obsessive; Carto-

ai als
25 & 26
where Lajos Kossuth was imprisoned 6 from 1837 graphias Budapest Atlas lists almost 400 street name Alag
t u
27 28

rk
to 1840. The controversial Hilton Budapest 7 changes in the capital alone. Sometimes it was just

p
29
(p154), which incorporates parts of a medi- a case of returning a street or square to its original 30

Ln
chd
eval Dominican church and a baroque Jesuit (perhaps medieval) name from Lenin tja, say, to Royal
Palace

u
college, is further south. Have a look at the Szent korona tja (Street of the Holy Crown). Other 33
31 Ybl Mikls tr
little red hedgehog relief 8 above the doorway at times the name is new. Dzsa 32
the house on Hess Andrs tr 3, which was The new (or original) names are now in place tr

an inn in the 14th century. after more than a decade and a half, the old street K
st ema
34
At a l A
If you walk north from Hess Andrs tr signs with a red X drawn across them have all but til
au t tat
rk Ybl Mikls
along Fortuna utca, youll soon reach the in- disappeared and virtually no one refers to Ferenciek tr

d u
teresting Hungarian Museum of Commerce and Cater- tere (Square of the Franciscans), for example, as Fel-
ing 9 (p55). This street leads back into Bcsi

Apr
szabaduls tr (Liberation Sq), which honoured the 0
0
300 m
0.2 miles
kapu tr, but if you continue west along Soviet armys role in liberating Budapest in WWII. Szarvas
Tabn tr
Petermann br utca youll reach Kapisztrn
76 Castle Caper
77
 From Kapisztrn tr, walk southeast on Orszghz utca, keeping an eye open for the The first part of the palace (Wing A) is currently empty since the Ludwig Museum of
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www.lonelyplanet.com
sedile in the glassed-in entrance to No 9 and the medieval houses painted white, terra cotta Contemporary Art (p70) has relocated to Pest. In the middle of the square and facing the
and lime at Nos 18, 20 and 22. entrance, a statue of a Hortobgy csiks 28 (cowboy) in full regalia breaks a mighty bbolna steed,
ri utca, the next parallel street to the west, has some interesting courtyards, especially No a sculpture that won international recognition for its creator, Gyrgy Vastagh, at the Paris
19 with a sundial and what looks like a tomb. There are more Gothic sedilia at Nos 32 and World Exhibitions of 1900 and 1901.
40; if the gates are locked theres a peephole to look through. The Telephony Museum 13 (p56) is To reach one of two entrances to the Hungarian National Gallery 29 (p54), walk under the little
housed in an old Clarist monastery. At No 9 of the same street is the entrance to the touristy archway south of Wing B to the square facing the Danube for Wing C, or walk under the
Buda Castle Labyrinth 14 (p53). Returning to I Szenthromsg utca, on the corner youll pass a massive archway protected by four snarling lions to Wing D. Those choosing the former
mounted statue of Andrs Hadik 15, a Hussar field marshal in the wars against the Turks. If youre will enter what was once the palace terrace and gardens. Just in front of Wing C stands a
wondering why the steeds brass testicles are so shiny, well, its a student tradition in Budapest statue of Eugene of Savoy 30 (16631736), who wiped out the last Turkish army in Hungary at
to give them a stroke before taking an exam. For a coffee-and-cake break, try Ruszwurm 16. the Battle of Zenta in 1697. Designed by Jzsef Rna 200 years later, it is considered to be
In the centre of I Szenthromsg tr to the northeast theres a statue of the Holy Trinity (17; the finest equestrian statue in the capital.
Szenthromsg szobor), another one of the plague pillars put up by grateful (and healthy) Whichever route you take, youll pass the large, Romantic-style Matthias Fountain 31 (Mtys
Buda citizens in the early 18th century. The square is dominated by Castle Hills two most kt), to the west and facing the palaces large northwestern courtyard, which portrays the
famous sights: Matthias Church 18 (Mtys templom; p55) and Fishermens Bastion 19 (Halsz- young king Matthias Corvinus in hunting garb. To his right below is Szp Ilona (Beautiful
bstya; p54) just beyond it. In front of the bastion is an ornate equestrian statue of St Stephen Helen), a protagonist of a Romantic ballad by the poet Mihly Vrsmarty. Apparently
20 by Alajos Strbl. the poor girl fell in love with the dashing hunter and, upon learning his true identity and
The Golden Eagle Pharmacy 21 (p54), a short distance to the southwest and just before Dsz feeling unworthy, she died of a broken heart. The rather smug-looking fellow with the shiny
tr, probably looks exactly the way it did in Buda Castle in the 16th century, though it was foot below to the left is Galeotto Marzio, an Italian chronicler at Matthias court. The mid-
Walking Tours

Walking Tours
moved to its present site 100 years later. Continue to Dsz tr, then from here walk south along dle of the kings three dogs was blown up during the war; canine-loving Hungarians and
Sznhz utca to Szent Gyrgy tr. Along the way youll pass the bombed-out former Ministry of most are quickly had an exact copy made.
Defence 22 on the right, a casualty of WWII and, during the Cold War, NATOs supposed nu- If you want to bail out of the tour and leave Castle Hill altogether now, theres a lift
clear target for Budapest. Further south and on the left is the National Dance Theatre 23 (Nemzeti (elevator; 100Ft) to the right of the Lion Court archway that will take you down to Dzsa
Tncsznhz; p135), built in 1736 as a Carmelite church and monastery, and the restored Sndor tr and the stop for bus 16 for Pest.
Palace 24 (Sndor palota), which now houses the offices of the president of the republic. In Wing F of the palace on the west side of Lion Court is the National Szchenyi Library 32 (p190),
CASTLE CAPER

BUDAS MADE FOR WALKIN

From Szent Gyrgy tr there are two entrances to the Royal Palace (Budavri palota), the which contains codices and manuscripts, a large collection of foreign newspapers and a copy
large complex to the south that has been burned, bombed, razed, rebuilt and redesigned of everything published in Hungary or the Hungarian language. It was founded by Count
at least a half-dozen times over the past seven centuries. The first is via the Habsburg Steps 25 Ferenc Szchenyi (17541820), father of Istvn Szchenyi (p42), who endowed it with 15,000
through an ornamental gateway dating from 1903. Flanking the steps is a large statue of the books and 2000 manuscripts. The Budapest History Museum 33 (p54) is in Wing E.
turul 26, an eagle-like totem of the ancient Magyars (p37), erected in 1905. The other way, You can walk through the history museum and exit through the rear doors without
which well take, is via Corvinus Gate 27, with its big black raven symbolising King Matthias buying a ticket. Have a look around the castle walls and enter the palace gardens. Ferdinand
Corvinus, southwest of the square. Gate 34 under the conical Mace Tower will bring you to a set of steps. These descend to
Szarvas tr in the Tabn district, from where you can take tram 18 south to XIII Gellrt tr
or bus 86 north to Margit krt.

BUDAS MADE FOR WALKIN

Begin this walking tour of buda (p59) in Flrin tr 1, which is split in two by the rpd
Bridge flyover and encircled by mammoth housing blocks. It is not the best introduction
to buda, but it remains the districts historic centre.
In the subway below this massive square are Roman objects that have been discovered
in the area (many of them, sadly, are now vandalised and tagged in graffiti), including
the Baths Museum (2; Frd Mzeum; %250 1650; admission free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun
THIS IMAGE May-Sep, 10am-5pm Tue-Sun 15-30 Apr & Oct). Still more Roman ruins, including a
NOT AVAILABLE reconstructed temple, can be found in the park that is above the subway.
Dominating the easternmost side of III
IN PICK & MIX Flrin tr is the yellow baroque buda Parish
Church (3; budai plbniatemplom; III 168
Lajos utca), which was built in 1749 and WALK FACTS
dedicated to Sts Peter and Paul. Theres a Start III Flrin tr
massive rococo pulpit inside. To the south- End Aquincum
east, the large neoclassical building beside Distance 4.5km
the Corinthia Aquincum Hotel is the former Duration Three hours
buda Synagogue (4; budai zsinagga; III Transport HV rpd hd, g86 from Buda, dfrom
Lajos utca 163), dating from 1821. It now Pest (start); HV Aquincum (end)
houses sound studios for Hungarian Tele- Fuel Stop j Spos Halszkert (p97)
vision (MTV).
78 79
 www.lonelyplanet.com

Two contiguous squares lying east of

budas Made for Walkin
Just before you reach the Palatinus (and

Margaret Island Hopper

www.lonelyplanet.com
Flrin tr Szentllek tr 5 (Holy Spirit Sq), a 0 500 m almost in the exact geographical centre of buda Island

er
(budai-sziget)

Ri v
0 0.3 miles
transport hub, and F tr 6 (Main Sq), a quiet the island) youll pass the ruins of a Francis- V
r
sv
ri
restored square of baroque houses, public can church and monastery 3 (Ferences templom t

ube
BUDA
Aquincum
buildings and restaurants contain budas s kolostor), including a large tower and

Dan



13 rpd hd
most important museums. To reach them, Pk u wall dating from the late 13th century. The rp

(rp d Bridg

Pacsirtamez u
Keled t
walk north on Budai als rakpart and under Kaszsdl 12 Habsburg archduke Joseph built a summer d h e
d)
the flyover. residence here when he inherited the island 11
R
Kro bert
ly krt
In the former Zichy Mansion is the Vasarely in 1867. It was later converted into a hotel Tmr u 10
9
Museum 7 (p60), devoted to the works of the Zhony
u that ran until 1949.
father of op art, the late Victor Vasarely. In the north-central north part of the jlak

6 8
In the back of the same building facing the island, an open-air theatre (5; szabadtri szn- 5

ny
courtyard (enter at F tr 1) is the Kassk Aquincum pad; %340 4883) is used for opera, plays 4 Vzafog

st
7
Museum 8 (p60) of early-20th-century avant- and concerts in summer. An octagonal water Szpvlgyi t Palatinus So
strand Rez
s
tower 6 (vztorony), erected in 1911, rises 66m

u
stn
garde art. Take advantage of outdoor seating y

Lajos

d lfr
for a snack at j Spos Halszkert 9. above the theatre. The tower now houses 3 Dzsa

Hajs A
Gyrgy t
Walking northeast from the square, Kaszsdl the Lookout Gallery (Killt Galria; %340 Felhvz
Margaret Island
(Margit-sziget)

t
youll see a group of odd metal sculptures of 4520; adult/child 200/100Ft; h11am-7pm

rpd fejede

Vci
Filatorigt
women 10 under umbrellas in the middle of May-Oct), which exhibits some interest-
Walking Tours

Walking Tours
2
the road. It is an installation by the prolific ing folk craft and contemporary art on the Lehel

lem
Imre Varga, whose work is shown at the Imre ground floor. The main reason for entering 1 tr

t
Varga Exhibition House 11 (p60) in a charming jliptvros

u
is to climb the 153 steps for a stunning 360-

ndrei
Margit
hd
townhouse nearby. degree view of the island, Buda and Pest

Szente

krt git
Marga
re
If you want to continue on to Aquincum from the cupola terrace. (Margi t Bridge Sze

r
Ma
t hd) nt I Nyugati
s
(p59), the most complete Roman civilian buda Island Due east is the former Dominican convent 7 BUDA
krt tvn Train
Station
MARGARET ISLAND HOPPER

MARGARET ISLAND HOPPER

(budai-sziget)

p
jlaki rk
town in Hungary and now an indoor and (Domonkos kolostor) constructed by Bla
Laktanya u
outdoor museum, dont walk but hop on bus V
IV whose scribes played an important role 0 1 km
34 or 43 heading north from III Szentllek r
sv
ri
Vrskereszt u
11
in the continuation of Hungarian scholar- 0 0.5 miles
K
tr or catch the HV suburban train from t rh
z 10
ship. Its most famous resident was Blas
u

rpd hd for three stops, and alight at the daughter, St Margaret (124271). Accord-
Polgr

u 9

Flrin 6 8
Aquincum station. A Roman aqueduct used tr ing to the story, the king promised to com-
WALK FACTS
1 7

r
Serf rpd hd

ve
5
to pass this way from a nearby spring, and 2 z u rp mit his daughter to a life of devotion in a
Ri

(rp d Bridg
au

d h e
remains have been preserved in the central 4 d) nunnery if the Mongols were driven from Start Margaret Bridge
oron

3
Mkus u
Tanul

reservation (median strip) of III Szentendrei the land. They were and she was at nine
Pacsirtamez u

End rpd Bridge

Kis K

Dugovitsz
t. The prosperous towns heyday was in the Titusz tr years of age. Still, she seemed to enjoy it Distance 3km
e
t m
Feje d

b
dele

2nd and 3rd centuries, lasting until the Huns if were to believe the Lives of the Saints
nu

Duration Two hours

rp

Da

and assorted other hordes came and ruined especially the mortification-of-the-flesh Transport d4 or 6 (start); g26, d1 (end)
everything. The Aquincum Museum 12 (p59) is parts. St Margaret, only canonised in 1943,
well worth the trip. commands something of a cult following
Across Szentendrei t to the northwest is the Roman Civilian Amphitheatre 13 (Rmai polgri in Hungary. A red-marble sepulchre cover surrounded by a wrought-iron grille marks her
amfitetrum), about half the size of the one reserved for the garrison (p60). Much is left original resting place, and theres a much visited shrine with ex-votives nearby.
to the imagination, but you can still see the small cubicles where lions were kept and the Some 200m north is the reconstructed-Romanesque Premonstratensian Church 8 (Premontre
Gate of Death to the west through which slain gladiators were carried. templom), dedicated to St Michael and originally dating back to the 12th century. Its 15th-
century bell is real enough, though; it mysteriously appeared one night in 1914 under the
roots of a walnut tree that had been knocked over in a storm. It was probably buried there
MARGARET ISLAND HOPPER by monks at the time of the Turkish invasion.
Begin your tour of Margit-sziget (Margaret Island; p62) by heading north from the tram The Romans used the thermal springs bubbling below the northeastern part of the
stop (4 or 6) on Margaret Bridge. In the flower-bedded roundabout 350m to the north is the island both as drinking water and therapy and so do modern Magyars. Margitszigeti
Centennial Monument 1 (Centenariumi emlkm), unveiled in 1973 to mark the union of Buda, Krisztlyvz (Margaret Island Crystal Water), one of the more popular brands of min-
Pest and buda 100 years before. Three decades ago was an entirely different era in Buda- eral water in Hungary, is sourced and bottled here, and the thermal spa at the Danubius
pest, and the sculptor filled the strange split cone with all sorts of socialist and nationalist Grand Hotel Margitsziget 9 (p136) to the northeast is one of the cleanest and most modern
symbols. They remain as if contained in a time capsule thats been cracked open. in Budapest.
Walking along the central road, youll pass two popular swimming pools on the west The attractive Japanese Garden 10 (Japnkert), at the northwestern end of the island, has koi,
side. The first is the very serious Alfrd Hajs National Sports Pool 2 (Hajs Alfrd Nemzeti Sportu- carp and lily pads in its ponds, a small wooden bridge and a waterfall. The raised gazebo
szoda; p137). To the north is the recently renovated Palatinus 4 (p137) complex. This place to the north is called the Musical Fountain 11 (Zenlkt), a replica of one in Transylvania. A
is an absolute madhouse on a hot summer afternoon but its always a good place to watch tape plays chimes and tinny snatches of a folk song on the hour. From here walk to rpd
Hungarians at play. Bridge and the bus stop.
80 81
 IN THE STEPS OF ST STEVE
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www.lonelyplanet.com
This walking tour of Szent Istvn krt (p67), not particularly long or demanding, begins
in XIII Jszai Mari tr, which is split in two by the foot of Margaret Bridge on the Pest
side. Two buildings of very different styles and functions face the square. The modern
building south of the square is nicknamed the White House (1; V Szchenyi rakpart 19), the
former headquarters of the Central Committee of the Hungarian Socialist Workers Party.
It now contains the offices of the members
of the nearby Parliament. To the north is an
elegant block of flats called Palatinus House (2;
XIII Pozsonyi t 2), built in 1912. WALK FACTS
Start XIII Jszai Mari tr THIS IMAGE

The area to the north of Szent Istvn
krt is known as jliptvros (New Leo- End V Erzsbet tr NOT AVAILABLE
pold Town). It is a wonderful neighbour-
hood with tree-lined streets, antique shops,
Distance 3km
Duration 2 hours IN PICK & MIX
boutiques and a few cafs and is vaguely Transport d4 or 6 (start); mM1/2/3 Dek
reminiscent of uptown Manhattan. It was Ferenc tr (end)
upper middle class and Jewish before the Fuel Stop Okay Italia (p115)

war (and remains essentially so today, with
Walking Tours

Walking Tours
the odd ex-communist boss thrown in
for good measure), and many of the safe 0 500 m
houses organised by the Swedish diplomat 0 0.3 miles

Raoul Wallenberg (p68) during WWII were Margaret Island

here. A street named after this heroic man, (Margit-sziget)

two blocks to the north, bears a commemo-

t
yi
son
rative plaque. Along the bank of the river
IN THE STEPS OF ST STEVE

ELIZABETH TOWN TAILORED TOUR

rkt

Poz
ls

is a rarity for Budapest: a row of Bauhaus

ti a

5 Ipo
Rn ly u The attractive little theatre roughly in the middle of this section of the Big Ring Road is
apartments 3. They may not look like much
Pes

tgen
4 Vict u
the Comedy Theatre 9 (p134). Right on Nyugati tr, Okay Italia 10 is a good place to replenish
ia u
3 or H Alig 14
today after decades of bad copies, but they ug u
nn

Margaret Bridge u
(Margit hd) C san Lehel for the rest of the tour.
were the bees knees when they were built
Pan

d yu 13
tr
Rad You might recognise the large iron and glass structure on Nyugati tr (known as Marx

in the late 1920s. East of the apartments is Rao nti M Lehel

ula

ul W ikl tr
tr until 1989) if you arrived by train. Its the Nyugati train station 11 (Nyugati plyaudvar),
Gy

Balz
Szent Istvn Park 4, where a statue of Raoul Wallen- Jszai
Mari tr
alle
nbe s u ac
n i t

u
u

rg u
s

dating from the end of the 19th century. The old restaurant room to the right now houses
Tt Ern u

2
di

berg 5 doing battle with a snake (evil) was

ged
Hollzsony

ra u

egr

Kat one of the worlds most elegant McDonalds.

He

ona
Vis

ci

erected in 1999. It is titled Kgyl (Serpent

Po

Jz
sef If you look north up Vci t from Nyugati tr, beyond the new West End City Centre 12 shop-
rkp

9 u
Slayer) and replaces one created by sculptor 1 Kd 12
8 Sz r u
ping mall, you may catch sight of the twin spires of the Lehel church 13 (XIII Lehel tr) a 1933
i

Blint u

6 ent
heny

Istv Nyugati
Pl Ptzay that was mysteriously removed 7 n k tr u
du

rt ky copy of the 13th-century Romanesque church (now in ruins) at Zsambk, 33km west of
ere u
Szc

10 11 icz
Honv
Balassi

the night before its unveiling in 1948. Stollr Bla an
nos u

u Nyugati pu Budapest. The monstrosity that is Lehel Csarnok 14 (p93) is nearby.

Szem

d m
Po
u

Return along Pozsonyi t to Szent Istvn Mark Terzvros

Nagy I

Liptvros u If youre feeling energetic, walk south through Nyugati tr and along Bajcsy-Zsilinszky
J
Bihari J

ka

krt, which is an interesting street to stroll t for about 800m to the Basilica of St Stephen 15 (p64). The street ends at busy Dek Ferenc
iu

along; as elsewhere on the Big Ring Road, Alkotmn

yu
tr. In the subway below, near the entrance to the metro, youll find the Underground Railway
Te
Bajcsy-Zsilinszky t

Parliament
r

most of the Eclectic-style buildings were Klmn Imre u

z

Museum 16 (p64).
kr
t

erected in the last part of the 19th century. Bthory u

In the early part of the 20th century, big foreign insurance companies built their of-
Na
Ha

Dont hesitate to explore the inner court-

gy

Kossuth

fices here, with some huge ones still standing. Madch Imre t 17, running east from Kroly
j

u
m
s

Lajos tr n
ez
u

yards here and further on if Dublin is Je

y
krt, the start of the Little Ring Road, was originally designed to be as large and grand
u

Szabadsg ch
i
celebrated for its doors and London for its tr
Bank u
Z
ru a boulevard as nearby Andrssy t. But WWII nipped that plan in the bud, and it now
u

Arany Jnos utca z

squares, Budapest is known for its lovely L

Danu

Arany Jn os u
t
Opera
u ends abruptly and rather self-consciously after just two blocks. Much of Erzsbet tr 18 is
udvarok.
Hercegprm

u
Oktber 6

y e
y

Ed
be R

15
now given over to a park since the international bus station was moved to Npliget and
Sas u

ss
va

y
R

This stretch of the boulevard is also good n dr u la

A Pa the National Theatre opened its doors along the Danube in Ferencvros and not here, as
iver

for shopping. The Sznyi Antikvriuma 6 (p148), Bajcsy-

s u

originally planned.
u

Roosevelt Zsilinszky t
a second-hand and antiquarian bookshop, tr
Attila
u
Dek Kir
ly
u
yi Jzsef 16
is excellent for browsing it has old prints hen e
Szc Bridg 18 Ferenc tr

ELIZABETH TOWN TAILORED TOUR

in i Harmincad u Ru
Cha cheny) mb
and maps in the chest of drawers at the (Sz nchd Vrsmarty
17 ac
yI u

hS
B St

l
back. Falk Miksa utca 7, the next street on the tr u u
u

K
Belg

n c
F ere ro Asboth u
This walking tour of Erzsbetvros (p68), or Elizabeth Town, which takes you through the
rcz

l
ek y
B
r

kr
right and running south, is loaded with D
cs

t
d rk

old Jewish Quarter and up along Rkczi t to the Keleti train station, begins in Liszt Ferenc
i u

Dek
pricey antique shops. You can get an idea
p

Ferenc
Belvros tr Astoria tr, where youll find the Ferenc Liszt Academy of Music 1 (Liszt Zeneakadmia; p131) at the south-
of what Hungarians are off-loading these eastern end. There are always tickets (some very cheap) available to something perhaps a
days from the secondhand BV shop 8 (p147). recital or an early Saturday morning rehearsal.
82 In the Steps of St Steve 83


Elizabeth Town Tailored Tour

No synagogue compares with the Great Synagogue 8 (p68), which also contains the Jewish
www.lonelyplanet.com

www.lonelyplanet.com
Liszt
Ferenc
tr
1 Museum 9 (p68). Outside the front of the synagogue a plaque notes that Theodore Herzl, the

Na
father of modern Zionism, was born at this site in 1860. The Holocaust Memorial Center 10 p69)

gy
Arany Jnos utca

He
m

Ro
Er z
ez
is on the northern side of the synagogue. and faces Rumbach Sebestyn utca. The Hungarian

ge
u
yu
Bajcsy-Zsilinszky t

tte
ly

s
r ra

u
Opera Ga
Ki

nb
rt
u
Electrotechnology Museum 11 (p68), a personal favourite, is a short distance to the north.

be
2

il l e
t
t

ru
ly
t k Rkczi t 12, a busy shopping street to the south, leads to Blaha Lujza tr 13, named after a

krt
s y su Th

Cs
s

Ke
3 u nk Keleti

Kis

n
dr leading 19th-century stage actress. The subway (underpass) below is one of the liveliest in

Al
ny u

r
Train

t
An M

yi

s
h

sz
Di

Ak
u

er
Station
Do Keleti pu 15

u
the city, with hustlers, beggars, peasants selling their wares, musicians and, of course, pick-

d

Bajcsy-

fa

cfa

H
Kerepesi t

so
Zsilinszky t

u
Ka 4

ru
u
pockets. Just north of the square is the Art Nouveau New York Palace (14; New York Palota; VII

s fa
zin

u
cz

Berz
O

y 5
Erzsbet krt 9-11), erstwhile home of the celebrated New York Caf (New York Kvhz;

sv
u
Na

seny
t
i

u
gy
7 u 14 cz

Fiu
ny see boxed text, p126), scene of many a literary gathering over the years. It has now been

Rk
u

Ru 6 Di

iu
h

me

11 17
b

m fa
Do
Do

almost completely restored and will soon reopen as a hotel.

i
ba

Luth
ch u

t
Blaha Lujza

Dek

Kiss
Vig
Ferenc tr K
S
u nyi
u tr
dj
u
Rkczi t ends at Baross tr and the Keleti train station 15 (Keleti plyaudvar). It was built

er u
l
ro sse ezer

Jzs
u
ly 13 16
We yu
B
krt in 1884 and renovated a century later. To the southwest in huge VIII Kztrsasg tr is

hn
Sp

ef u
10 Do Kztrsasg
the citys other opera house, the ugly Erkel Theatre 16 (p133). From the outside, youd never
u

9 tr
Np

12 szn
hz
8
i
t u guess it was built in 1911. On the same square youll find the former Communist Party headquarters
cz
Astoria
Rk (17; VIII Kztrsasg tr 26-27), from which members of the secret police were dragged
u
0 400 m and shot by demonstrators on 30 October 1956. It now houses the main offices of the
hL 0 0.2 miles
sut
Kos reformed MSZP.
Walking Tours

Walking Tours
If you walk southwestwards along Kirly WORKING THROUGH THE VIII & IX DISTRICTS
utca youll pass the Church of St Teresa 2, built
in 1811 and containing a massive neoclas-
WALK FACTS Begin the walking tour of the traditionally working-class districts of Jzsefvros and Fer-
encvros (p69) in Rkczi tr 1, the only real square right on the Big Ring Road and as good a
sical altar and chandelier and, diagonally Start VI Liszt Ferenc tr place as any get a feel for these areas. The square is the site of a busy market hall 2 (vsrcsarnok;
opposite, a lovely neo-Gothic house 3 at No 47 End Keleti metro station
ELIZABETH TOWN TAILORED TOUR

WORKING THROUGH THE VIII & IX DISTRICTS

p93), erected in 1897 and renovated in the
built in 1847. Klauzl tr 4, the heart of the old Distance 4km early 1990s after a bad fire.
Jewish Quarter, is a couple of streets to the Duration 3 hours Across Jzsef krt, Brdy Sndor utca
southeast over Dob utca. Transport mM1 Oktogon (start); mM2 Keleti runs west from Gutenberg tr with a lovely WALK FACTS
The square and its surrounding streets re- plyaudvar (end) Art Nouveau building (3; VIII Gutenberg tr 4) to Start VIII Rkczi tr

tain a feeling of prewar Budapest. Signs of a Fuel Stop Kdr (p120) the former Hungarian Radio headquarters (4; Mag- End Applied Arts Museum
continued Jewish presence are still evident yar Rdi; VIII Brdy Sndor utca 5-7), Distance 3.5km
in a kosher bakery at Kazinczy utca 28, the where shots were first fired on 23 October Duration Three hours
Kvri butchers at Dob utca 35, the Frh- 1956. Beyond it is the Italian Institute of Culture Transport d4 or 6 (start); mM3 Ferenc krt
lich cake shop and caf (p125) which has (5; VIII Brdy Sndor utca 8), which once (end)
old Jewish favourites, at Dob utca 22 and housed the erstwhile House of Commons Fuel Stop Darshan Udvar (p124)
and appears on the reverse of the 20,000Ft

wigmakers at Kazinczy utca 32.
There are about half a dozen synagogues
and prayer houses in the Erzsbetvros dis-

Mz
Gutenberg Vsr u
trict, and these were reserved for different tr 3 Rkczi u

eum
2 Miksa
tr Dri
sects and ethnic groups: conservatives, the Brdy
Sndo
ru Bk 1

krt
5 si
u
Orthodox, Poles, Sephardics and so on. The

Szentk

Saltr
4

THIS IMAGE

Nm
Pollack

Hornszky u
Orthodox Synagogue (5; Ortodox zsinagga; VII

Rkk Sz
irlyi u

Maria u

Jzsef krt

et u
mu
6 fu

NOT AVAILABLE
Kazinczy utca 29-31), which is also accessed Jzse

M tr

ilrd u

r u
u
from Dob utca 35, was built in 1913 for ez

IN PICK & MIX

u
M zeum Lrinc zm

Rig u
Pap tr vas
Budapests Orthodox community, and the Kec
ske
m
Mikszth
Klmn tr
8 9
Ta
Horvth
Moorish Rumbach Sebestyn utca Synagogue (7; ti u
Reviczky
u Mihly tr
7
Rumbach Sebestyn utcai zsinagga; VII Baross u Baross u
Klvin tr
Rumbach Sebestyn utca 11) in 1872 by z kr
t
l
Kis Stci u
h li
Austrian Secessionist architect Otto Wag- V
m t

Maria u

Kisfaludy u
ner for the conservatives. Between the two
Nap u
synagogues theres an unusual antifascist
monument to Carl Lutz (6; VII Dob utca 12), a ku

Vajdahunyad u
le Prter u
zte Corvin koz
Swiss consul who, like Raoul Wallenberg, K
10
11
provided Jews with false papers in 1944. It iu 0 400 m
zs Ferenc krt
ni Eu
Ki es
ll 0 0.2 miles

Fut u
portrays an angel on high sending down a Ho
gy
i
t

long bolt of cloth to a victim.

84 Working Through the VIII & IX Districts 85
 www.lonelyplanet.com

note, and the Hungarian National Museum 6 (p69). You may enjoy walking around the museum

Andrssy Amble

www.lonelyplanet.com
gardens, laid out in 1856. The column to the left of the museum entrance once stood at the lu
he Szchenyi
Forum in Rome. Have a look at some of the villas and public buildings on Pollack Mihly Le frd n
y
rti
t st
tr behind the museum and the white wrought-iron gate in the centre. Lehel
llat
ke
K ro
ly
tr s
Walk south to Klvin tr and follow Baross utca and Reviczky utca eastwards to the Ervin

Rip
19
Szab Central Library 7 (p190), built between 1887 and 1894 and exquisitely renovated in recent

pl-
R

V
18

na

ro
years. With its gypsum ornaments, gold tracery and enormous chandeliers, youll never see

sli
i u
Hsk 17

ge
yu

ti
Fe
va tere
another public reading room like it. Take time out for a refreshment in the terrace caf of

t
rd
d
en 20

in
L City Park
Darshan Udvar 8, just beyond Mikszth Klmn tr.

n
t

M ihl
ci
(Vrosliget)

un y u
d

M
u Olo

k
h
V
ky f Pa

csy
Further east along Baross utca, across the Big Ring Road, the old Telephone Exchange building

d
z lme
nic u st
a b

D
(9; VIII Horvth Mihly tr 18), built in 1910, has reliefs of classical figures using the then dm lib ny

z
Po D

sa
u

Bajza utca 15 r

Gy
newfangled invention, the telephone. The Art Deco Corvin Film Palace 10 (Corvin Filmpalota; nc
z

Nyugati Be

rg
y
Train r
p133), at the southern end of Kisfaludy utca in the middle of a square flanked by Regency- Nyugati pu fa
so

t
Station ti

R
Kodly
ge

Ba
like houses, has been restored to its former glory.

zs
li

Iza
krnd os

jza
a
Cs
r

be

u
t 14 V

r
en

u
lla
West of here is Hungarys answer to Londons Victoria and Albert Museum: the Applied

s
ge
sy

u
16
s

ar
ry
dr u

ty
Arts Museum 11 (p69). In fact, the London museum was the inspiration when this museum

u
13 An ich

Sz
u
an

v
Vrsmarty mj

tv

u
12 Da

s
was founded in 1864.

Te
utca

u
r
11

zk
Bajcsy-Zsilinszky t
8

rt
10 9 u
ly
r
Ki

J
ANDRSSY AMBLE

V
ka
Walking Tours

Walking Tours
Cs vs
iu

r
Na

en

Iza
E

sm
R

ge
gy

be
ru
zs

ar

Ro
ry
m
a

lla
ty
s
ez
Andrssy t (p70) splits away from Bajcsy-Zsilinszky t about 200m to the north of V Dek

tte
Oktogon u

u
oz

nb
M
u

ille
Ferenc tr. This section of Andrssy t is lined with plane trees cool and pleasant on a warm 5 Liszt

ru
Ha
6 Ferenc 0 400 m
day. The first major point is the Hungarian State Opera House 1 (p71). The interior, which can be

j
7 tr 0 0.2 miles

su
1 t
ly

He
4
visited on a tour, is particularly lovely and sparkles following a total overhaul undertaken in

Erz
k

ge
Th

Na
Da

s
Opera

d
gy

be
ls
the 1980s.

zn

u
m

t
2 V
ANDRSSY AMBLE

ANDRSSY AMBLE
ez
a
Opposite the Opera House, the so-called Drechsler House (2; VI Andrssy t 25) was de- sv

zu

krt
r Keleti Train Station

u
t 3 iP
sy u l
signed by Art Nouveau master builder dn Lechner in 1882. Until recently it housed the s e u

Sz ih
r Ed

M
nd

k ly
ay Keleti

ely u
A ul
Hungarian State Dance Institute but it now stands empty, another victim of development Pa
pu

that never happened. For something even more magical, walk down Dalsznhz utca to
the New Theatre (3; j Sznhz; %351 1406; VI Paulay Ede utca 35), a Secessionist gem
embellished with monkey faces, globes and geometric designs that opened as the Parisiana The old-world caf Mvsz 4 (p126) is in
music hall in 1909. the next block. The following cross street
is Nagymez utca, the Broadway of Buda-
WALK FACTS
pest, counting a number of theatres, includ- Start Opera metro station
ing the Budapest Operetta 5 (p133) at No 17 End VI Hsk tere
and, just opposite, the Thlia (6; %331 0500; Distance 2.6km
VI Nagymez utca 22-24), lovingly restored Duration Two hours (or more)
in 1997. Transport mM2 Opera (start); mM1 Hsk
On the right-hand side of the next block, tere (end)
the Fashion House (7; Divatcsarnok; VI An- Fuel Stop Mvsz (p126) or Lukcs (p126) cafs
drssy t 39), the fanciest emporium in
town when it opened as the Grande Parisi-
enne (or Prisi Nagyaruhz in Hungarian) in 1912, contains the ornate Ceremonial Hall
(Dszterem) on the mezzanine floor, a room positively dripping with gilt, marquetry and
THIS IMAGE frescoes by Kroly Lotz. It is currently being redeveloped so it may be closed when you
NOT AVAILABLE pass by.
IN PICK & MIX Andrssy t meets the Nagykrt the Big Ring Road at Oktogon, a busy intersection
full of fast-food places, shops, honking cars and pedestrians. Just beyond it, the former
secret police building, which now houses the House of Terror 8 (p71), has a ghastly history, for
it was here that many activists of every political persuasion was out of fashion before and
after WWII were taken for interrogation and torture. The walls were apparently double
thickness to mute the screams. A plaque on the outside of this house of shame reads in
part: We cannot forget the horror of terror, and the victims will always be remembered.
The Franz Liszt Memorial Museum 9 (p71) is diagonally opposite.
Along the next two blocks youll pass some very grand buildings housing such insti-
tutions as the Budapest Puppet Theatre 10 (p73) at No 69, the Academy of Fine Arts (11; Magyar
Kpzmvszeti Egyetem; VI Andrssy t 71) next door and the headquarters of MV (12;
86 87
 www.lonelyplanet.com

V Andrssy t 73), the national railway, after that. The Lukcs caf 13 (p126) and cake shop

Inner Town in Stride

www.lonelyplanet.com
Dek
is just opposite. Ferenc tr
The next square (more accurately a circus) is Kodly krnd 14, one of the most beautiful

Do
Ap
Belg

ro
c

tty
zai
in the city, with the faades of the four neo-Renaissance townhouses still in desperate need

rd

au
22

Cse
Vrsmarty K

rkp
of a massive face-lift.

u

tr ro

re

St
ly
krt

Jn
u
The last stretch of Andrssy t and the surrounding neighbourhoods are packed with ad

o
Vig

su
21
stunning old mansions that are among the most desirable addresses in the city. Its no u

Bc
24

u
aj

Dun
surprise to see that embassies, ministries, multinationals and even political parties (eg

yI
rH

si
h

rcz
u

a ko

yu
nc Fe

u
ere

B
FIDESZ-MPP at VI Lendvay utca 28) have moved in.

cz
Vigad F 23 20
k

rl
rz
tr De
The Ferenc Hopp Museum of East Asian Art 15 (p70) is in the former villa of its eponymous col-

Ge
Kristf tr V
15 ros 14
h
a nu 17 zu
lector and benefactor at No 103. More of the collection is on display at the nearby Gyrgy I stv Se
mm

rr

Ara
T 16 elw
Rth Museum 16 (p71), a few minutes walk southwest. Pe eis

nyk
25 t u
12
Andrssy t ends at Hsk tere 17 (Heroes Sq), which leads to City Park (p72). The citys 19 fi

z
S Vitkovics M u
nd

u
18 or
most flamboyant monument and two of its best exhibition spaces are in the square. The 13

Vr
u z
k
Belvros ye u
Millenary Monument 18 (Ezerves emlkm; p71) defines Hsk tere. Beneath the tall column

osh
x
lva meg
au Pi Vr

st

zu
po iu

Ga
and under a stone slab is an empty coffin representing the unknown insurgents of the 1956 R
gi
riz
s

lam
P
Uprising. To the north of the monument is the Museum of Fine Arts 19 (p71) and its rich col-

bu

lection, while to the south is the ornate Mcsarnok 20 (Palace of Art; p72), which was built kz hL
u
ris sut
around the time of the millenary exhibition in 1896 and renovated a century later. 26 Ha Kos
Walking Tours

Walking Tours
Da
Bu Ferenciek tere
sti 11

Vc
Pe

nu
Kigy u

i
be

u
INNER TOWN IN STRIDE 29

Riv
Ferenciek tere u
da
no

er
10 lta
The best place to start a wide-reaching tour of the Belvros (Inner Town; p63) is Egyetem u Re

K
aj t
ads

ro
tr 1 (University Sq), a five-minute walk south along Krolyi Mihly utca from Ferenciek b

lyi


Sza ria
u
Iu

M
27 28 Cu zy

Ve
tere. The squares name refers to the branch of the prestigious Lornd Etvs Science University (2;

u
nc

res
re
Fe
INNER TOWN IN STRIDE

INNER TOWN IN STRIDE

ELTE; V Egyetem tr 1-3). Next to the university building to the west is the University Church 3,

Cukor u
P
ln
5
a lovely baroque structure built in 1748. Over the altar inside is a copy of the Black Madonna ridg
e 4

u
th B d) 9
of Czstochowa so revered in Poland. The church is often full of young people presumably abe et h
Eliz rzsb

Be
8
(E

lgr
those who havent tickled Andrs Hadiks horse (see p78) on Castle Hill. 1

d
eu 2
veld

rkp
Just north of Egyetem tr, the Petfi Literary Museum (4; Petfi Irodalmi Mzeum; %317 Papn 3
Ke

Pl u csk
e
3611; V Krolyi Mihly utca 16; adult/child 280/140Ft; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun) is housed in

Kir
ry
Ny

u
the sublimely renovated neoclassical Kroly Palace 5 (Krolyi Palota; 1840), which also houses 7

lyi P
b
Feh
er
Sz

r G

l u
a centre for contemporary literature, library, concert/lecture hall and terrace restaurant in 6

yrg
the courtyard.

yu
Southwest of Egyetem tr, at the corner of Szerb utca and Veres Pln utca, stands 0 200 m rt
zk
the Serbian Orthodox church (6; Szerb ortodox templom; V Szerb utca 2-4; admission 260Ft; 0 0.1 miles
m
h
V
h9.30am-1pm & 2-5pm), built by Serbs fleeing the Turks in the 17th century. The icono-
stasis is worth a look.
There are a couple of interesting things to see along Veres Pln utca 7, which runs north to
south just west of Egyetem tr. For example, the building at No 19 has bronze reliefs above On the southeastern corner of the square
the 2nd floor illustrating various periods of construction in the capital in the 18th, 19th is the Pest county hall (13; Pest Megyei nkor-
mnzat Hivatal; V Vroshz utca 7) the
WALK FACTS
and early 20th centuries. At the corner of Papnvelde utca and Cukor utca, the stairwells Start V Egyetem tr
of the enormous Apczai Gimnzium (8; V Papnvelde utca 4-10) elementary school (1913) is city of Budapest is located in the county
of Pest a large neoclassical building with End V Mrcius 15 tr
topped with little Doric temples on either side of the roof symbolising culture and learn- Distance 2.3km
ing. A few steps north is Szivrvny kz 9 (Rainbow Alley), the narrowest and shortest street inner three courtyards. North of the square
is the 18th-century municipal council office (14; Duration Two hours
in Budapest. The building with the multicoloured tiled dome and north of the alley is the Transport mM3 Ferenciek tere (start and end)
Lornd Etvs University Library (10; Egyetemi knyvtr; V Ferenciek tere 6). Fvrosi nkormnzat Hivatal; V Vros-
hz utca 9-11), or city hall, a rambling red Fuel Stop Gerbeaud caf (p125)
The best way to see the posher side of the Inner Town is to walk up pedestrian Vci
utca, the capitals premier and most expensive shopping street, with designer clothes, and yellow structure that is the largest bar-
expensive jewellery shops, pubs and some bookshops for browsing. This was the total length oque building in the city.
of Pest in the Middle Ages. To gain access from Ferenciek tere, walk through Prisi Udvar (11; Szervita tr 15 is at the northwestern end of Vroshz utca. Naturally theres the requisite
Parisian Court; V Ferenciek tere 5), a gem of a Parisian-style arcade built in 1909, out onto baroque church (Szervita templom; 1732) presiding over the square, but much more in-
tiny Kigy utca. Vci utca is immediately to the west. teresting are the buildings that stand to the west. You would probably never guess, but the
Make a little detour off Vci utca by turning east on Haris kz once a privately owned Rzsavlgyi House (16; V Szervita tr 5) apartment block was built in 1912, and is a wonder-
street and continue across Petfi Sndor utca to Kamermayer Kroly tr 12 a lovely little square ful example of early Modernism. Two doors away is the former Trk Bank House 17 (p20);
with shops, an arty caf and, in the centre, a statue of Kroly Kamermayer (182997), united have a look up to the gable to see its marvellous mosaic. You can return to Vci utca via
Budapests first mayor. Rgiposta utca.
88 89
 Lonely Planet Publications
www.lonelyplanet.com

THIS IMAGE
NOT AVAILABLE
IN PICK & MIX
Walking Tours
INNER TOWN IN STRIDE

Many of the buildings on Vci utca are worth a closer look, but as its a narrow street
youll have to crane your neck or walk into one of the side lanes for a better view. Thonet House
(18; V Vci utca 11/a) is another masterpiece built by dn Lechner (1890), and a flower
shop called Philanthia (19; V Vci utca 9) has an original Art Nouveau interior.
At the top of Vci utca, across from Kristf tr with the little Fishergirl Well 20, is a brick
outline of the foundations of the Vc Gate (Vci kapu), part of the old city wall. The street
leads into Vrsmarty tr 21, a large square of smart shops, galleries, cafs and an outdoor
market of stalls selling tourist schlock, and artists who will draw your portrait or caricature.
Suitable for framing (maybe).
In the centre is a statue of the 19th-century poet after whom Vrsmarty tr was named.
It is made of Italian marble and is protected in winter by a bizarre plastic iceberg that
kids love sliding on. The first or last stop of the little yellow metro line (M1) is also
in the square, and at the northern end is Gerbeaud 22 (p125), Budapests most famous caf
and cake shop.
South of Vrsmarty tr is the sumptuous Bank Palace (23; Bank Palota; V Dek utca 5),
built in 1915 and now housing the Budapest Stock Exchange. The Pesti Vigad 24 (p131)
concert hall dating from the mid-19th century faces the river to the west of Vrsmarty
tr. Before proceeding, have a look (if open) in the foyer at V Vigad utca 6, which has one
of those strange conveyances called Pater Noster lifts (p65).
A pleasant way to return to Ferenciek tere is via the Duna korz 25, the riverside Danube
Embankment between Chain and Elizabeth Bridges and above Belgrd rakpart. Its full of
cafs, musicians and handicraft stalls and leads into Petfi tr 26, named after the poet of the
184849 War of Independence and the scene of political rallies (both legal and illegal) over
subsequent years. Mrcius 15 tr 27, which marks the date of the outbreak of the revolution,
abuts it to the south. Here youll find the Inner Town parish church 28 (p64) and, in the small
park to the north, whats left of the Contra Aquincum 29 Roman fort.
Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
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90 91
 Lonely Planet Publications

Eating

Buda 94
Castle Hill 94
Gellrt Hill & the Tabn 94
Vzivros 95
buda & Aquincum 96
Buda Hills 97
Cheap Eats Buda 98
Pest 111
Inner Town 111
Northern Inner Town 112
jliptvros & Terzvros 113
Erzsbetvros 115
Jzsefvros & Ferencvros 116
Andrssy t 118
City Park 119
Cheap Eats Pest 119
90
 Self-Catering
Eating

www.lonelyplanet.com
Budapest counts some 20 large food markets, most of them in Pest. They are usually open
from 6am or 6.30am to 6pm weekdays and to 2pm on Saturday. Monday is always very
quiet (if the market is open at all). Supermarkets and 24-hour shops selling everything from
cheese and cold cuts to cigarettes and beer abound on both sides of the Danube. Fresh food
Budapest is currently undergoing something of a restaurant revolution. Stodgy and heavy is generally sold by weight or by piece (darab). When ordering by weight, you specify by
Hungarian food (p26) is being enlightened, brought up to date and rechristened as kortrs kilos or deka (decagrams 50dg is equal to 0.5kg or a little more than 1lb).
magyar konyha (modern Hungarian cuisine) at many midrange and upmarket restaurants;
judging from the bookings at the establishments serving it, its here to stay. At the same BUDA
time, a fair few vegetarian (or partially vegetarian) restaurants have opened up in recent One of the largest and most central food markets in Buda is the Fny utca market (Map
years and more regular restaurants have a greater selection of real vegetarian dishes not pp21819; II Fny utca; h6am-6pm Mon-Fri, 6am-2pm Sat; mM2 Moszkva tr) next to
just fried cheese and stuffed mushroom caps. And ethnic food from Middle Eastern and the Mammut shopping mall (p143). Kaisers Szupermarket (Map pp2289; cnr XI Oktber 23
Greek to takeaway Thai and Chinese has become very popular. It all makes a very nice utca & XI Bercsnyi utca; h7am-8pm Mon-Fri, 7am-4pm Sat, 8am-3pm Sun; j4) is a
change from the not-too-distant days when munching on a cheeseburger at McDonalds good-sized supermarket south of XI Bla Bartk t, and a shop called Ezred Nonstop (Map p220;
was an attractive alternative to tussling with an overcooked bcsiszelet (Wiener schnitzel) I Attila utca 57; h24hr; g78) is open around the clock.
in yet another smoky vendgl (small restaurant) where the waiters just didnt want to
know. PEST
If looking for something cheap and cheerful, international fast-food places abound in Two of the most central (though not the most colourful or well-stocked) markets are Rkczi
Budapest (Oktogon is full of them), but old-style nkiszolgl (self-service restaurants), the tr market (Map pp21819; VIII Rkczi tr 8; h6am-4pm Mon, 6am-6pm Tue-Fri, 6am-
mainstay of both white- and blue-collar workers in the old regime are fast disappearing. 1pm Sat; j4 or 6) and, near V Szabadsg tr, Hold utca market (Map p222; V Hold utca 11;
More interesting places for local colour and better value in the long run are the wonderful h6am-5pm Mon, 6.30am-6pm Tue-Fri, 6.30am-2pm Sat; mM3 Arany Jnos utca).
little restaurants called tkezde, canteens not unlike British cafs that serve simple dishes Large supermarkets are everywhere in Pest, including Match (Map p222; VIII Rkczi
that change every day. A meal should easily cost under 1000Ft. Youll find gyors kinai bf t 50; h6am-9pm Mon-Fri, 7am-8pm Sat, 7am-3pm Sun; mM3 Blaha Lujza tr) facing

Eating
(Chinese fast-food buffets) serving uninspired but cheap rice and noodle dishes every- Blaha Lujza tr, with a district VI branch (Map p222; VI Andrssy t 30; h7am-8pm Mon-
where in Budapest. Traditional coffee houses and newly popular teahouses are primarily Fri, 7am-6pm Sat; mM1 Opera) at the corner with VI Nagymez utca; Kaisers Szupermarket
known for their teas and coffees, but sometimes serve cakes and light meals as well. These (Map p222; VI Nyugati tr 1-2; h7am-8pm Mon-Sat, 7am-4pm Sun; mM3 Nyugati
are listed in the Drinking section of the Entertainment chapter. plyaudvar), opposite the Nyugati train station; and Rothschild (Map p222; XIII Szent

SELF-CATERING
Istvn krt 4; h6am-8pm Mon-Fri, 7am-6pm Sat, 9am-5pm Sun; j4 or 6), with a
good supply of kosher products and a district VI branch (Map p222; VI Terz krt 19;
Opening Hours & Reservations h24hr; j4 or 6).
Most restaurants are open from 10am or 11am to 11pm or midnight; if there are no times There are nonstop shops open very late or even 24 hours throughout Pest, including the
listed under a particular entry in this chapter, you can assume the place will be open between Nyugati ABC (Map p222; track 13, Nyugati train station; h24hr; mM3 Nyugati plyaudvar);
those hours. Its always best to arrive by 9pm or 10pm (at the latest), though, to ensure the Keleti Sarok (Map pp21819; VIII Baross tr 3; h6am-midnight; mM2 Keleti plyaudvar)
being served. near the Keleti train station; and the Mini Coop (Map p222; VI Nagymez utca 60; h24hr;
It is advisable to book tables at medium-priced to expensive restaurants. mM1 Opera).

How Much? BUTTERFLY Map p222 MZES KUCK Map p222

Very roughly, a two-course sit-down meal for one person with a glass of wine or beer for VI Terz krt 20; 90Ft per scoop; h10am-7pm Honey Nook; XIII Jszai Mari tr 4; h10am-
under 2500Ft in Budapest is budget (though you can eat cheaply for less than that), while Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat; mM1 Oktogon 6pm Mon-Fri year-round, 9am-1pm Sat Oct-May;
a moderate meal will cost up to 5000Ft. Theres a big jump to an expensive meal (5000Ft This place and not the pastry shop next j4 or 6
to 7500Ft), and very expensive is anything above that. Most restaurants offer a good-value door, which is called Vajasstemnyek The place to go if youve got the urge for
men (set menu) of two or three courses at lunch. boltja is the place in Pest for ice cream, as something sweet; its nut-and-honey cook-
youll be able to deduce from the queues ies (180Ft per 10dg) are to die for, and
outside. the colourful gingerbread hearts (400Ft to
Tipping 600Ft) make excellent gifts.
The way you tip in restaurants here is unusual. You never leave the money on the table LEHEL CSARNOK Map pp218-19
this is considered both stupid and rude but tell the waiter how much youre paying in NAGY TAMS Map p224
total. If the bill is, say, 2700Ft, youre paying with a 5000Ft note and you think the waiter Lehel Market; XIII Lehel tr; h6am-6pm Mon-Fri,
6am-2pm Sat, 6am-1pm Sun; mM3 Lehel tr Big Tom; %317 4268; V Gerlczy utca 3; h9am-
deserves a gratuity of around 10%, first ask if service is included (some restaurants add it
to the bill automatically, which makes tipping unnecessary). If it isnt, say youre paying One of Pests more interesting traditional 6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat; mM1/2/3 Dek
3000Ft or that you want 2000Ft back. markets, Lehel Csarnok is housed in a Ferenc tr
It is not unknown for waiters to try to rip you off once they see you are a foreigner. They hideous boat-like structure, which was Budapests best cheese shop stocks more
may try to bring you an unordered dish or make a mistake when tallying the bill. If you think designed by Lszl Rajk, son of the com- than 200 varieties of Hungarian and im-
theres a discrepancy, ask for the menu and check the bill carefully. If youve been taken for munist minister of the interior executed ported cheeses; ask for the Hungarian
more than 15% or 20% of the bill, call for the manager. Otherwise just dont leave a tip. for Titoism in 1949. This is apparently his kecskesajit (goats cheese) made by an
revenge. eccentric theatre critic.
92 93
 NAGYCSARNOK Map p224 RIVALDA Map p220 TABNI TERASZ Map p220
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International Hungarian
Great Market; IX Vmhz krt 1-3; h6am-5pm %489 0236; I Sznhz utca 5-9; starters 975- %201 1086; I Aprd utca 10; soups & starters 690- TOP FIVE BUDA RESTAURANTS
Mon, 6am-6pm Tue-Fri, 6am-2pm Sat; j47 or 49 1800Ft, mains 3000-4500Ft; h11.30am-11.30pm; 890Ft, mains 1850-2750Ft; h11.30am-midnight; Malomt (left)
This is Budapests biggest market, though g16 g86 Malign (p96)
it has become a bit of a tourist trap since An international caf-restaurant in an This charming terrace restaurant at the foot Kisbuda Gyngye (p96)
it was renovated for the millecentenary in old convent next to the National Dance of Castle Hill is giving the long-established Tabni Terasz (left)
1996. Still, plenty of locals head here for Theatre with some modern Hungarian Aranyszarvas (opposite) a run for its money. Le Jardin de Paris (left)
fruit and vegetables, deli items, fish and favourites, Rivalda has a thespian theme Its a modern take on the same, with less
meat. There are good food stalls on the and a delightful garden courtyard. This is calorific Hungarian dishes and an excellent
west side of the 3rd level. the second of very few places wed choose wine selection. The candle-lit cellar is a terrace in the warmer months is not just
to visit in the generally touristy and ex- delight in winter. recommended its mandatory.
pensive Castle District. The menu changes
BUDA
Buda cant claim anything close to the same
frequently and the wine list is among the
best. VZIVROS MAROS SRZ Map pp218-19 Slovakian
%212 3746; XII Maros utca 16; soups 310-600Ft,
number of restaurants as Pest can but what KACSA Map pp218-19 Hungarian
starters 650-1450Ft, mains 910-2270Ft; h11am-
it does have are high-quality, very atmos- %201 9992; II F utca 75; soups 450-750Ft,
pheric dining venues. From romantic spots GELLRT HILL & THE TABN starters 800-2300Ft, mains 1200-3600Ft; hnoon-
11pm; j61
This brasserie just northwest of Dli train
with spectacular views and live piano music ARANYSZARVAS Map p220 Hungarian midnight; g86 station serves some of the best (and most
up on Castle Hill to the little neighbour- %375 6451; I Szarvas tr 1; soups 150-890Ft, Duck is the place to go, well, quackers, generous) Slovakian dishes in town. Try
hood eateries of buda, so long established starters 1100-2900Ft, mains 2180-3500Ft; hnoon- though you need not restrict yourself to the sztrapacska (potato dumplings; 1070Ft)
they make a cameo in Hungarian literature, 11pm; g86 just dishes with a bill (2200Ft to 2800Ft). Its with smoked ham or the beef in red wine
restaurants on this side offer great food and Set in an 18th-century inn literally at the a fairly elegant place, with art on the walls with noodles which, of course, must be
romance. foot of Castle Hill, the Golden Stag serves and piano music in the evening so dress washed down with Zlat Baant (Golden
Eating

Eating
up guess what? game dishes. Theres appropriately. Fresh ingredients but stuffy Pheasant) draught beer.
service and pricey wines.
CASTLE HILL piano music Thursday to Saturday in the
evening, and the covered outside terrace in MARXIM Map pp218-19 Italian
CAF PIERROT summer, when grills are available, is invit- LE JARDIN DE PARIS Map p220 French
CASTLE HILL

VZIVROS
%316 0231; II Kis Rkus utca 23; pizza 590-
Map p220 Hungarian, International ing. Vegetarians will give this place a wide %201 0047; II F utca 20; soups 900-1900Ft,
berth and head for nearby den.
1250Ft, pasta 620-890Ft; hnoon-1am Mon-Thu,
%375 6971; I Fortuna utca 14; soups 990-1190Ft, starters 1500-3000Ft, mains 1950-4650Ft; hnoon- noon-2am Fri & Sat, 6pm-1am Sun; mM2
starters 1590-2980Ft, mains 2690-5890Ft; h11am- midnight; g86 Moszkva tr
midnight; g16 DEN Map p220 Vegetarian A regular haunt of staff from the French A short walk (very logically) from Moscow
This very stylish and long-established caf- %375 7575; I Dbrentei utca 9; soups 590-690Ft, Institute across the road (who should know Sq, this odd place is a hangout for teens
cum-bar-cum-restaurant is one of the mains 990-1790Ft; hnoon-11pm Sun-Thu; la cuisine franaise), The Parisian Garden is who have added a layer of their own graf-
very few places to be recommended on g86 housed in Kapisztory House, a wonderful fiti to the communist memorabilia and
Castle Hill. The dcor is, well what else? This place in a mid-18th-century town- old townhouse abutting an ancient castle kitsch. OK, we all know Stalin szuksz, but its
clownish and theres live piano music house below Castle Hill must have the wall. The back garden ablaze in fairy lights still a curiosity for those who appreciate the
nightly. The food is Hungo-hybrid and quite classiest location of any vegetarian restaur- is enchanting in summer. Try the home- Gulag, Lenin and Red October pizzas and
good, and staff are exceptionally friendly. ant anywhere. Seating is in the 1st-floor made pts and the brasserie-style steak the campy Stalinist dcor.
dining room and, in warmer months, in and chips.
the pleasant courtyard. Note that den is MONGOLIAN BARBECUE
closed on Friday and Saturday. MALOMT Map pp218-19 Asian
Map pp218-19 Hungarian, International %212 1859; XII Mrvny utca 19/a; buffet
MARCELLO Map pp228-9 Italian %336 1830; II Frankel Le utca 48; soups 750- before 5pm 2590Ft, after 5pm & weekends 4390Ft;
%466 6231; XI Bartk Bla t 40; soup 450Ft, 1100Ft, starters 1400-2100Ft, mains 2400-4200Ft; hnoon-5pm & 6pm-midnight; j61
pizza & pasta 820-950Ft, mains 1680-2880Ft; hnoon-10pm; j17 South of Moszkva tr, this restaurant is an-
THIS IMAGE hnoon-10pm Mon-Sat; j49 The Mill Lake, north of Margit krt and other one of those all-you-can-eat pseudo-
NOT AVAILABLE Popular with students from the nearby uni- just across from the Lukcs Baths, is a wel- Asian places where you choose the raw
IN PICK & MIX versity since it was founded some 15 years
ago, this father-and-son-owned operation
come arrival, with up-to-date, fresh dcor
and an inspired menu of modern Hungar-
ingredients and legions of cooks stir-fry it
for you. The difference here is that as much
just down the road from XI Gellrt tr offers ian and international especially game and beer and wine as you can sink is included
reliable Italian fare at affordable prices. seafood dishes, many with an Asian spin. in the price. During summer theres also
The salad bar (small/large 580/780Ft) is But its major draw is its unique position on seating in an attractive, tree-filled courtyard.
good value and the lasagne (950Ft) almost the edge of a tiny lake filled with water lil- Dont expect gourmet cuisine but if youre
legendary in these parts. ies and croaking green frogs; a seat on the hungry (and thirsty) and skint, head here.
94 95
 lived in nearby Dugovits Titusz tr, moon- cellar wine restaurant in buda. Its be- buda. There are more than five dozen
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TOP FIVE ASIAN RESTAURANTS lighted as a restaurant critic and enjoyed come a firm favourite, and nothing is more items to choose from, fish is flown in fresh
Khlis bone marrow on toast (980Ft as a enjoyable than eating course after course every other day and the restaurant has
Seoul House (below) starter and better than it sounds!) so much of extremely well-prepared modern Hun- minimalist dcor and a very cool feel. A
j Lanzhou (below) he included it in one of his novels. garian cuisine with 4cL of excellent wine winner.
Nefrit (opposite) recommended by the waiter-sommelier. Try
Fuji (opposite) KISBUDA GYNGYE Map pp226-7 Hungarian the tenderloin of mangalica (a form of pork;
Kama Sutra (p113)
%368 6402; III Kenyeres utca 34; soups 880- 1950Ft) roasted with morel sauce or sirloin BUDA HILLS
1180Ft, starters 920-2980Ft, mains 2380-4880Ft; of grey cattle with onion duck-liver ragout ARCADE Map pp218-19 International
(1800Ft). There are regularly scheduled %225 1969; XII Kiss Jnos altbornagy utca 38;
SEOUL HOUSE Map p220 Korean hnoon-midnight Mon-Sat; g60 blind wine tastings (www.malign.hu).
This is a favourite traditional and very ec- soups 790Ft, starters 850-2450Ft, mains 2690-
%201 9607; I F utca 8; soups 400-1000Ft, rice centric Hungarian restaurant in buda; the 4990Ft; hnoon-4pm & 6pm-midnight Mon-Sat;
& noodle dishes 2200Ft, mains 2100-2700Ft; MENNYEI ZEK Map pp226-7 Korean, Chinese
antique-strewn dining room and attentive j59
hnoon-3pm & 6-11pm Mon-Sat; g86 service manage to create a fin-de-sicle %388 6430; Pacsirtamez utca 13; dishes 490- This distant (were talking kilometres here)
This place serves excellent Korean food, atmosphere. Try the excellent goose-liver 990Ft; hnoon-9pm; g86 cousin of Caf Kr (p112) in Budas well-
from barbecue grills to kimchi (pickled spicy dishes (around 3400Ft) and more pedes- Thats Celestial Tastes to you This little heeled district XII southwest of the Dli
cabbage) dishes. Not the most atmospheric trian things like csirke papriks (chicken Korean-Chinese hole in the wall serves train station has superb and very creative
place in town and service is rather grim paprika; 2380Ft). The roving fiddler some- excellent and very cheap dishes such as international cuisine, a much coveted leafy
but, well, that makes it all very authentic. times gets in the way; ignore him. spicy pork with eggplant and lots of the terrace set between two converging roads
hot pickled cabbage called kimchi. Its a and seamless service. Dress up. Theres an
SZENT JUPT LEROY CAF Map pp226-7 International great place for refuelling en route to/from excellent wine list.
Map pp218-19 Hungarian, Late Night Aquincum.
%439 1698; III Bcsi t 63; soups 590-890Ft,
%212 2923; II Retek utca 16; soups 360-550Ft, starters 1280-1780Ft, mains 2150-3750Ft; h1pm- FUJI Map p216 Japanese
ROZMARING Map pp226-7 Hungarian
Eating

Eating
mains 1490-1990Ft; hnoon-6am; mM2 midnight; g86 %325 7111; II Csatrka t 54; set meals 2500-
Moszkva tr Like the other branches of this ever- %367 1301; III rpd fejedelem tja 125; soups 5800Ft; hnoon-11pm; g29
Szent Jupt is the classic late-night choice expanding chain, including a Pest branch 690-950Ft, starters 790-1650Ft, mains 1290-3950Ft; Above Rzsadomb (the poshest area of
for solid Hungarian fare consider splitting (Map p222; %411 0915; VI Liszt Ferenc tr hnoon-midnight Mon-Sat, noon-9pm Sun; HV Budapest) in district II and on the corner
BUDA & AQUINCUM

BUDA HILLS
a dish with a friend. Its just north of Mosz- 10; hnoon-midnight; mM1 Oktogon), Tmr utca of Zldlomb utca and Zldkert t, Fuji is a
kva tr and opposite the Fny utca market this caf-restaurant serves international You probably wouldnt come all the way long way to schlep for sushi, sashimi and
so within easy striking distance of both cuisine that is not especially inspired but up here for the food its uninspired Hun- sukiyaki. But this is the most authentic
Buda and Pest. is of a certain standard and there just garian at best but the flower-bedecked Japanese game in town, judging from the
when youve ordered one too many pints covered terraces at Rosemary (as in the repeat clientele who nip in for noodles
J LANZHOU Map pp218-19 Chinese of Dreher. Pasta dishes (1550Ft to 2250Ft) herb) that look onto the Danube and the and more.
are always good blotter. The large terrace western side of Margaret Island (the water
%201 9247; II F utca 71; soups 290-340Ft, start-
fills up (and stays that way) very early in the tower just visible above the trees) are a NNCSI NNI Hungarian
ers 390-990Ft, mains 1290-2390Ft; h11.30am- delight in summer.
warm weather. Auntie Nancy; %397 2742; II rdgrok t 80;
11pm; g86
They say that the New Lanzhou is not as meals per person about 4000Ft; hnoon-11pm;
MAHARAJA Map pp226-7 Indian J SPOS HALSZKERT
authentic as its miniscule sister-restaurant j56
Lanzhou (Map pp21819; %314 1080; VIII %250 7544; III Bcsi t 89-91; starters 450- Map pp226-7 Hungarian Auntie Nncsi, any loopy old lady in Hun-
Luther utca; h11:30am-11pm; mM2 Kel- 1500Ft, mains 1500-4000Ft; hnoon-11pm; j17 New Piper Fishers Garden; %388 8745; III F tr garian, is a perennial favourite with Hun-
eti plyaudvar) over in Pest, but you could This buda institution was the first Indian 6; soups 950-1950Ft, starters 1200-2100Ft, mains garians and expats alike and very much of
have fooled us. This place is also more styl- restaurant to open in Budapest. It special- 1650-3300Ft; hnoon-midnight; g86 a sound mind. Housed in a wood-panelled
ish and closer to the real world so no doubt ises in northern Indian dishes and has never This lovely, very traditional restaurant in cabin in Hvsvlgy, the restaurant spe-
it will be a winner. been the best in town, but it does manage buda faces (and, in the warmer weather, cialises in game in autumn and winter. In
some mean samosas. It recently opened a has outside seating in) the districts most summer its the lighter fare and garden
branch called City Maharaja (Map p222; %351 beautiful square, which is worth the trip seating that attract.
BUDA & AQUINCUM 1289; VII Csengery utca 24; hnoon-11pm; in itself. Try the halszl (fish soup; from
KHLI Map pp226-7 Hungarian j4 or 6) in Pests Erzsbetvros. 950Ft). Service is very good here. NEFRIT Map pp218-19 Chinese
%368 0613; III Mkus utca 22; soups 580-880Ft, %213 9039; XII Apor Vilmos tr; soups & start-
starters 980-2880Ft, mains 1480-6280Ft; hnoon- MALIGN Map pp226-7 Hungarian, Wine WASABI Map pp226-7 Japanese ers 390-1680Ft, mains 1220-2660Ft; hnoon-
midnight; g86 %240 9010; III Lajos utca 38; soups 650-980Ft, %430 1056; III Szpvlgyi t 15; lunch Mon-Fri midnight; j59
A rustic but stylish place in buda, Khli has starters 1450-1950Ft, mains 1950-3500Ft; hnoon- 2990Ft, Sat & Sun 3990Ft, dinner daily 3990Ft; This Chinese restaurant housed in a small
some of the best traditional Hungarian food. 11pm; g86 h11am-11pm; g86 villa on the way to the Buda Hills is popular
In fact one of Hungarys best-loved writers, No-one but no-one takes their wine as The sushi conveyor belt has finally arrived with diplomats who like what purports
the novelist Gyula Krdy (18781933), who seriously as the folk at Malign, a fabulous in Budapest and has headed straight for to be authentic Cantonese and Szechuan
96 97
 cuisines. The dim sum (610Ft to 850Ft), GASZTR HS-HENTESRU its location in the renovated Kroly Palace
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(Continued from page 98)
hard to find in Budapest, is acceptable and Map pp218-19 Butchers Shop (Krolyi Palota) near ELTE university. It has
some of the seafood dishes quite good.
%212 4159; II Margit krt 2; dishes from 250Ft; TOLDI TKEZDE a wonderful terrace in the palace courtyard
Service is particularly prompt. Map pp218-19 Hungarian, tkezde open in the warmer months and the menu
h7am-6pm Mon, 6am-7pm Tue-Fri, 6am-1pm Sat; has lots of options for vegetarians.
j4 or 6 %214 3867; I Batthyny utca 14; starters 160-
REMZ Map p216 Hungarian, International
Opposite the first stop of trams 4 and 6 on 390Ft, mains 689-980Ft; h11am-4pm Mon-Fri;
%275 1396; II Budakeszi t 5; soups 780-1240Ft, the west side of Margaret Bridge, this place g39 KRPTIA Map p224 Hungarian
starters 980-2620Ft, mains 1980-3220Ft; h9am- with the unappetising name of Gastro Meat This little eatery just west of F utca is the %317 3596; V Ferenciek tere 7-8; starters 800-
midnight; j56 and Butcher Products is a traditional butcher place to come if youre in search of Hungar- 2000Ft, mains 2800-5900Ft; h11am-11pm; mM3
Next to an old tram depot (remz) in the shop also serving cooked sausages and roast ian comfort food at lunchtime (weekdays Ferenciek tere
Buda Hills, this virtual institution kitted chicken, which is common in Hungary. only). Unusually for this kind of place, there A veritable palace of fin-de-sicle design
out in retro dcor remains excellent for its are at least a half-dozen real vegetarian dating back 120 years that has to be seen
grilled dishes, especially the ribs (1980Ft IL TRENO Map pp218-19 Italian dishes to choose from. to be believed, the Carpathia serves
to 2880Ft), competitive prices and verdant almost modern Hungarian and Transylva-
garden terrace. The portions are huge and %356 2846; II Retek utca 12; pizzas 820-1790Ft,
nian specialities in both its restaurant and
pasta 990-1290Ft; h10.30am-11pm; mM2
the service is flawless.
Moszkva tr PEST
Pest offers a much wider range of restaur-
cheaper pub, and there is a lovely covered
garden terrace. This is the place to hear
SZP ILONA With a cheap set menu (950Ft), a half- authentic csrds Gypsy music.
dozen branches throughout the city and ants than Buda does especially when it
Map p216 Hungarian, International a thriving takeaway service (%814 1414), comes to things like ethnic cuisine. Not
%275 1392; II Budakeszi t 1-3; soups 420- The Train (its first branch was opposite always as sophisticated as those across the KPR Map p224 French
800Ft, starters 600-2210Ft, mains 1000-3470Ft; Dli train station) is one of the most popu- Danube, Pest-side eateries are often more %266 0430; V Kpr utca 3; soups 900-1100Ft,
h11.30am-10pm; j56 lar pizzerias in town. Seating at this branch relaxed and (it must be said) hipper. starters 1450-2950Ft, mains 2200-3950Ft; hnoon-
This old favourite in the Buda Hills and is in the neighbouring Trombits restaurant 3pm & 6pm-midnight Mon-Fri, 6pm-midnight Sat &
Eating

Eating
opposite the Remz is the place to come or, in warmer months, in a positive oasis of Sun; mM3 Klvin tr
for heavy, indigenous Hungarian and other a courtyard off busy Moszkva tr. INNER TOWN Using the old word for painter, this restaur-
dishes at very modest prices. The name re- BANGKOK HOUSE Map p224 Thai ant is one of the more stylishly appointed
fers to the Beautiful Helen of poet Mihly Z- FALODA %266 0584; V S utca 3; soups & Thai salads eateries in town, with provocative frescoes
CHEAP EATS BUDA

INNER TOWN
Vrsmartys ballad who falls in love with 550-2250Ft, mains 1450-4550Ft; hnoon-11pm; on the walls and canned jazz. The food is
Map pp218-19 Hungarian, Self-Service
a dashing hunter who turns out to be the French classical (it gets a red Michelin men-
%345 4130, 238 0282; II Lvhz utca 12; soups j47 or 49
young king Matthias Corvinus (see p79). Its Bangkok House is done up in kitsch, Asian- tion), the service professional and there is a
a sad story. 250-380Ft, mains 320-590Ft; h11am-6pm Mon- decent selection of vegetarian dishes.
esque dcor that recalls takeaway places
Fri, 11am-4pm Sat; mM2 Moszkva tr
on any British high street or American strip
The Drink-Eat Snack Bar is a clean, modern
mall. But the Thai- and Laotian-inspired MOMOTARO RAMEN Map p222 Asian
CHEAP EATS BUDA and cheap self-service place in Fny utca
market next to the Mammut shopping mall.
dishes are acceptable in a city where South- %269 2037; V Szchenyi utca 16; noodles 900-
DLI KINAI GYORSTTEREM east Asian restaurants are at a premium, 1700Ft, mains 1100-2500Ft; h11am-10pm; g15
It has excellent fzelk (see p29) dishes.
Map pp218-19 Chinese and the staff is friendly. Theres a tourist This is a favourite pit stop for noodles
%355 4565; XII Alkots utca 1/a; starters 140- menu (1460Ft) available from noon to 4pm. especially the soup variety when plinka
NAGYI PALACSINTZJA
300Ft, mains 730-1720Ft; h9am-10.30pm; mM2 had been a-flowing the night before. But
Map pp218-19 Hungarian, Late Night FATL Map p224 Hungarian its also good for dumplings and more
Dli plyaudvar
This very cheap Chinese place just opposite Grannys Palacsinta Place; %201 5321; I Hatty %266 2607; V Vci utca 67; soups 580-890Ft, substantial dishes, including the odd
the Dli train station is suitable for a last- utca 16; set menus 780-1060Ft; h24hr; mM2 dishes 1890-2190Ft; h11.30am-2am; j47 or 49 Szechuan one.
minute feed before you head off. Moszkva tr This place serves massive Hungarian meals
This place, with branches in Buda (Map p220; on fatal (wooden platters) or in iron caul- CEN BR & GRILL Map p224 Seafood
FORTUNA NKISZOLGL %212 4866; I Batthyny tr 5; h24hr; drons in three rustic rooms. And follow the %266 1826; V Petfi tr 3-5; soups 900-1250Ft,
mM2 Batthyny tr), buda (Map pp2267; rules: bring your appetite and its friends;
starters 990-2790Ft, mains 2490-5450Ft; hnoon-
Map p220 Hungarian, Self-Service
%212 4866; III Zhony utca 2; h24hr; avoid the noisy backroom; and book in
Fortune Self-Service Restaurant; %375 2401; g34) and still another across the river advance. midnight; j2 or 2/a
I Fortuna utca 4; soups 200-300Ft, mains 500-700Ft; in Pest (Map p224; %418 0721; V Petfi Wed like to say this place has made quite a
h11.30am-2.30pm Mon-Fri; g16 Sndor tr 17-19; h24hr; mM1/2/3 Dek splash in Budapest but were afraid wed be
KROLYI TTEREM Map p224 Hungarian arrested by the pun police. Still, its making
Youll find cheap and fast weekday Ferenc tr) with Internet access does Hun-
%328 0240; V Krolyi Mihly utca 16; soups 600- waves with its fresher-than-fresh seafood
lunches in the Castle District at this place, garian pancakes both savoury (218Ft to
a very basic but clean and cheerful self- 650Ft, starters 1050-1800Ft, mains 2450-3350Ft; flown in daily from Scandinavia, congenial
398Ft) and sweet (118Ft to 398Ft) varieties
service restaurant. Reach it via the stairs round the clock. Its always packed. h10am-11pm; g15 dcor and wonderful fishmongers/
on the left side as you enter the Fortuna This place beckons not so much for the delicatessen (enter from Rgiposta utca;
Passage. (Continued on page 111) food (though it is decent enough) but for h10am-9pm). Well come back for the
98 111
 curried crabmeat souffl and the boiled VEGETARIUM Map p224 themselves PPHRs (popular-priced hotel
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Vegetarian
lobster (1990Ft per 100g) but we do wish %484 0848; V Cukor utca 3; soups & starters restaurants) in the hospitality trade dont TOP FIVE PEST RESTAURANTS
theyd remove that aquarium. Theres a 490-760Ft, mains 950-1500Ft; h11.30am-10pm usually make the grade as far as we are
three-course set lunch for 5000Ft. concerned but this one in a stunning newly cen Br & Grill (p111)
Mon-Sat; mM3 Ferenciek tere Menza (p114)
renovated hotel is worth its weight in ma-
A basement restaurant just off Egyetem tr, Mzeum (p117)
SPOON Map p224 International jolica tiles. Theres live jazz every Thursday,
the Vegetarium, Budapests (and Hungarys) Fausto (p115)
Friday and Saturday from 7pm.
%411 0933; off V Vigad tr; mains 2690-4500Ft; oldest meat-free restaurant, serves vegetar- Vrs s Fehr (p118)
hnoon-midnight; j2 or 2/a ian and organic food of the old style but
If you like the idea of dining on the high there are lots of choices for vegans here IGUANA Map p222 Mexican
waters but still remaining tethered to too. Set lunch is a snip at just 650Ft. %331 4352; V Zoltn utca 16; starters 430-1590Ft,
mains 1890-3990Ft; h11.30am-12.30am; g15 TOM-GEORGE Map p224 International
the bank (just in case) Spoons for you. It
serves international cuisine amid bright Iguana serves decent-enough Mexican %266 3525; V Oktber 6 utca 8; soups 680-1680Ft,
and breezy surrounds and the choices for NORTHERN INNER TOWN food (not a difficult task in this cantina- starters 1650-3580Ft, mains 2500-6200Ft; hnoon-
vegetarians are great. You cant beat the CAF KR Map p224 International free desert of a town), but its hard to say midnight; g15
views of the castle and Chain Bridge. It whether the pull is the chilli (1050Ft to Lets be honest. Whats the point of eating
%311 0053; V Sas utca 17; salads 730-2110Ft,
also does sushi (300Ft to 900Ft), hand rolls 1490Ft), the enchilada and burrito com- in a place that could be in London or New
mains 1590-3190Ft; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat; g15
(880Ft to 3000Ft) and sashimi (2550Ft to bination platos (2090Ft to 2290Ft) or the York when in Budapest? This ber-trendy
Just behind the Basilica of St Stephen, the
4800Ft). frenetic and very boozy we-party-every- and overdecorated place is the venue of
Circle Caf is a great place for a light meal
night-style atmosphere. the moment and not an unpleasant spot.
at any time, including late breakfast (460Ft
SUSHI AN Map p224 Japanese Its just that the menu is all over the place
to 590Ft). Salads, desserts and daily specials
KAMA SUTRA Map p224 Indian contemporary Hungarian, Argentine steaks
%317 4239; V Harmincad utca 4; sushi per piece are always recommended, and there are
more ambitious three/four-course wine- %373 0092; V Oktber 6 utca 19; starters 450- (3200Ft to 7600Ft) and sushi (420Ft to
300-600Ft, hand rolls 900-1400Ft, sets 1900-3900Ft; 1400Ft) is not fusion its confusion and
hnoon-10pm; mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc tr tasting menus for 4900/6900Ft. 899Ft, mains 1200-2800Ft; h11am-11pm; g15
the service is as attitudinous as a film star

Eating
Eating

This tiny sushi bar next to the British em- This new arrival is a welcome one indeed:
decent curries and tandoor dishes in up- being IDed. Set lunch is 1350Ft.
bassy in central Pest is great for sushi and CAF MOKKA Map p224 International
sashimi but even better for Japanese sets %328 0081; V Sas utca 4; soups 890-960Ft, dishes beat surrounds in the very heart of town.
Try the samosas (450Ft) and chicken vin-
served with miso soup. But theres not 2450-5950Ft; hnoon-midnight; g15 JLIPTVROS &

JLIPTVROS & TERZVROS

NORTHERN INNER TOWN

much more room in here than space to daloo (1600Ft). Its definitely a cut above
The name of the game here is ethno-
swing a cat. cuisine (dont know either), with a mish-
the usual curry-house atmosphere and the
perfect place for a meal before moving on
TERZVROS
mash of dishes; youll virtually need a map ALHAMBRA Map p222 Spanish, Moroccan
for the evening.
TAVERNA PIREUS REMBETIKO and compass to read the menu. But we love %354 1068; VI Jkai tr 3; starters 790-1980Ft,
Map p224 Greek the space and the great African theme and
LA FONTAINE Map p224 French mains 890-2490Ft; hnoon-midnight Mon-Fri,
theres a good wine list. The three-course
%266 0292; V Fvm tr 2-3; starters 590- set menu (7000Ft) with wine is good value. %317 3715; V Mrleg utca 10; starters 1190-2990Ft, 6pm-midnight Sat & Sun; mM1 Oktogon
1590Ft, mains 1690-2290Ft; hnoon-midnight; mains 1990-6990Ft; hnoon-2.30pm Mon-Fri, This place, which almost certainly has
j47 or 49 7-10.30pm daily; g15 taken inspiration from the celebrated Moro
GOVINDA Map p224 Vegetarian
restaurant in London, serves Spanish food
Overlooking a patch of green and facing The Fountain is a Parisian-style caf-
the Great Market Hall, this place serves %269 1625, 473 1309; V Vigyz Ferenc utca with a North African twist as well as straight-
thtre, with more of the former than the
reasonably priced and pretty authentic 4; soups 350Ft, dishes 240-450Ft; hnoon-9pm forward Moroccan dishes such as couscous
latter. The relatively simple brasserie food
Greek fare. Rembetiko is a folk music school Mon-Sat; g15 is good, especially the leg of lamb and and tajines. The dcor is decidedly more
and a style of traditional Greek music; there As well as wholesome salads, soups and the steak frtes. There is also a much wider Moorish than the dishes, though, which
are live performances on Friday and Satur- desserts, Govinda serves up a daily set choice of fish dishes than one would nor- also include Spanish things like empan-
day evening. The courtyard is tempting in menu plate (small/large 1280/1600Ft). Run mally find in such a restaurant. adas (790Ft to 890Ft) and paella (2100Ft to
summer. by a Buddhist and blessed by the Dalai 2600Ft). Set midweek lunch is 980Ft.
Lama when it was first opened, the restaur-
LOU LOU Map p224 French
ant is in a basement near Chain Bridge. ARTICSKA Map p222
TRATTORIA TOSCANA Map p224 Italian %312 4505; V Vigyz Ferenc utca 4; soups 800Ft, Mediterranean
%327 0045; V Belgrd rakpart 13; starters 990- starters 1600-2800Ft, mains 2300-4400Ft; hnoon- %302 7757; VI Zichy Jen utca 17; soups 690-
GRESHAM KVHZ
3200Ft, pasta & pizza 1350-2690Ft, mains 1500- 3pm & 7-11pm Mon-Fri, 7-11pm Sat; g15 1300Ft, starters 1260-2950Ft, mains 2920-6000Ft;
Map p224 International
3390Ft; hnoon-midnight; g15 One of the most popular places with ex- h11am-midnight; mM3 Arany Jnos utca
Hard by the Danube, this trattoria serves %268 5110; Four Seasons Gresham Palace Hotel, V patriate franais in Budapest is this bistro Charming Articska is tastefully decorated
rustic and very authentic Italian and Tuscan Roosevelt tr 5-6; soup 1200Ft, starters 1600-3200Ft, with excellent daily specials. Two signature and has an atrium, roof-top terrace and a
food, including ribollito alla chiantigiana, a mains 2600-3900Ft; h6.30am-11.30pm Mon-Fri, dishes are the marinated grilled breast of theatre that can accommodate 100 people.
hearty vegetable soup stewed with can- 7am-11.30pm Sat, noon-10pm Sun; j2 or 2/a duck with orange and Arabica coffee sauce Theres live music every second week of the
nelini (white Tuscan beans) and Parmesan Hotel coffee shops even ones that mas- (3100Ft) and the rack of lamb with garlic month, and the atmosphere should win a
cheese. The focaccia is excellent too. querade as proper restaurants and call and haricots verts (3600Ft). prize. The food is more Hungo-Med than
112 113
 Italian (but heading in that general direc- from the Hungarian for a drab school OKAY ITALIA Map p222 VOGUE Map pp218-19
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Italian South Slav
tion). Pasta dishes (1400Ft to 2200Ft) are canteen something it is anything but. %349 2991; XIII Szent Istvn krt 20; pizza 1320- %350 7000, 06-30 942 5027; XIII jpesti als
especially recommended. Book a table; its fabulously stylish and 1790Ft, pasta 1460-2290Ft, mains 1680-3050Ft; rakpart 1; soups 650-1000Ft, starters 700-2000Ft;
always packed by diners who come for the
h11am-midnight Mon-Fri, noon-midnight Sat & h11am-1am; trolleybus 76 & 79
FIRKSZ Map pp218-19 Hungarian simply but perfectly cooked Hungarian This fine old vessel moored off XIII Szent
Sun; j4 or 6
%450 1118; Ttra utca 18; soups 590-790Ft, classics with a modern spin. Weekday two- Istvn Park in jliptvros and opposite
Okay is a perennially popular place run by
starters 1150-1690Ft, mains 1990-3600Ft; hnoon- course set lunches are a snip at 790Ft. the eastern side of Margaret Island has fine
Italians with a full range of dishes with a
midnight; g15 nearby branch (Map p222; %332 6960; V views south to Margaret and Szchenyi
Set up by former journalists (the name MRI KISVENDGL Nyugati tr 6; mM3 Nyugati plyaudvar) Chain Bridges and unusually you can
means hack in Hungarian), Firksz is a Map pp218-19 Hungarian Jewish, tkezde that serves just pasta and pizza, which is also take in both sides of the river. The food
retro Hungarian restaurant with lovely old %349 8390; XIII Pozsonyi t 39; dishes 480- what most people come for in any case. is Serbian and other South Slav evapii
mementos on the walls, excellent home Both restaurants have terraces. (spicy meatballs), pljeskavica (spicy meat
1500Ft; h10am-8pm Mon-Thu, 10am-3pm Fri;
cooking and a great wine list. And you cant patties) and ranjii (shish kebab) always
trolleybus 76 or 79 grilled and always in large portions.
beat the location in jliptvros. Would PESTI VENDGL Map p224 Hungarian
Sample some of the best home-cooked
that they were all like this %266 3227; VI Paulay Ede utca 5; soups 350-
Hungarian Jewish food in Budapest at this
MARQUIS DE SALADE
simple boroz (wine bar) and restaurant, a
short walk north of Szent Istvn krt. But,
650Ft, starters 490-1350Ft, mains 1250-1750Ft;
h11am-11pm; mM1/2/3 Dek tr
ERZSBETVROS
Map p222 International AL-AMIR Map p224 Middle Eastern
as the owner warns our dear readers, get Here is a great choice for someone try-
%302 4086; VI Hajs utca 43; soups & salads 800- here by 3pm if you want to eat the famous ing traditional Hungarian specialities for %352 1422; VII Kirly utca 17; meze 650-850Ft,
1700Ft, mains 2500-3400Ft; h11am-1am; trolley- fzelk. the first time. This very popular family-run mains 1490-2300Ft; hnoon-11pm; mM1 Bajcsy-
bus 72 or 73 and clean eatery close to Dek tr offers a Zsilinszky t
This is a serious hybrid of a place, with MOSSELEN Map p222 Belgian lighter take on standard Hungarian favour- Arguably the most authentic Middle East-
dishes from Russia and Azerbaijan as well as ites, and the staff is very welcoming and ern (in this case, Syrian) place in town and
Eating

Eating
%452 0535; www.mosselen.hu; XIII Pannnia utca light years from the gyros and falafel places
Hungary. There are lots of quality vegetar- helpful.
14; soup 610Ft, starters 1290-2100Ft, mains 1890- found along the Big Ring Road (p119).
ian choices, too, in the basement restaurant.
3390Ft; hnoon-midnight; g15 Al-Amir too has a window selling takeaway
And, by the way, its not just about salade.
This pleasant pub-restaurant in
POZSONYI KISVENDGL
gyros (500Ft) and falafels (450Ft), but were
JLIPTVROS & TERZVROS

ERZSBETVROS
jliptvros serves Belgian (and some Map pp218-19 Hungarian talking quality here.
MENZA Map p222 Hungarian Hungarian) specialities, including its name- %329 2911; XIII Radnti Mikls utca 38; soups
%413 1482; VI Liszt Ferenc ter 2; soups 590-650Ft, sake, mussels, and has a wide selection of 350-520Ft, starters 680-850Ft, mains 750-1350Ft; CARMEL PINCE Map p224 Jewish
starters 990-1390Ft, mains 1390-2790Ft; h10am- Belgian beers, including some of the fruit- h11am-midnight; trolleybus 76 or 79 %322 1834, 342 4585; VII Kazinczy utca 31; soups
midnight; mM1 Oktogon flavoured ones. A beer tasting of six costs Visit this neighbourhood restaurant on the 380-900Ft, starters 600-2200Ft, mains 1400-3000Ft;
On Budapests most lively square, this up- 1650Ft and there is a good snacks menu corner of Pozsonyi t offering the ultimate
hnoon-11pm; trolleybus 74
market Hungarian restaurant takes its name (990Ft to 1340Ft). local experience: gargantuan portions of Decidedly not kosher signs outside
standard Hungarian favourites, rock- will warn you of that fact in six living
bottom prices and a cast of local characters. languages but the Carmel Cellar has
Theres a bank of tables on the pavement authentic Ashkenazi specialities such as
in summer and simple set weekday menus gefilte fish (800Ft), matzo-ball soup (700Ft)
for 550Ft. and a cholent almost as good as the one
Aunt Goldie used to make. Theres live klez-
TROFA GRILL mer music (see p19) on Thursday evening.
Map pp218-19 International, Buffet A three-course tourist menu (1800Ft) is
%270 0366; XIII Visegrdi utca 50/a; lunch/ available daily from noon to 6pm.
THIS IMAGE dinner Mon-Thu 2200/3000Ft, lunch & dinner Fri-
NOT AVAILABLE Sun 3600Ft; hnoon-midnight Mon-Fri, 11.30am- FAUSTO Map p224 Italian
IN PICK & MIX midnight Sat, 11.30am-9pm Sun; mM3 Lehel tr %269 6806; VII Dohny utca 5; soups 1300-3300Ft,
When you really could eat a horse (which starters 2400-4200Ft, mains 3200-6400Ft; hnoon-
might be there somewhere), head for the 3pm & 7pm-11pm Mon-Sat; trolleybus 74
Trofa. Its an enormous buffet of more Still the most upmarket (and expensive)
than 100 cold and hot dishes over which Italian restaurant in town, Fausto has
diners swarm like bees while being ob- brilliant pasta dishes, daily specials and
served by the cooks from their kitchen. desserts; there are lots of choices for
Considering theres goose liver and salmon vegetarians. The yellow walls and antique
on the table (at least for a while) its good furniture provide an elegant touch and the
value. Italian wine selection is huge. It remains
114 115
 one of the most pleasant dining experi- vegetarian dishes (1050Ft to 1460Ft) are quite a find in deepest Jzsefvros and well
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ences in Budapest. plentiful. worth the search. Dishes mingle Hungarian TOP FIVE OLD-STYLE
and international tastes with some old-style
HANNA Map p224 Kosher SPINOZA CAF Map p224 International Jewish favourites. HUNGARIAN RESTAURANTS
%342 1072; VII Dob utca 35; lunch per person Firksz (p114)
%413 7488; VII Dob utca 15; starters 1190-1490Ft,
3000Ft; h8am-3.30pm Mon-Thu, 8am-10pm Fri, MZEUM Map p224 Hungarian Khli (p96)
mains 1590-2990Ft; h11am-11pm; j47 or 49 Nncsi Nni (p97)
11am-2pm Sat, 8am-2pm Sun; j4 or 6 This very attractive caf-restaurant in the %338 4221, 267 0375; VIII Mzeum krt 12;
Krptia (p111)
Housed upstairs in an old school in the Jewish district has become a personal soups 700-800Ft, starters 1400-3400Ft, mains 2400-
Mri Kisvendgl (p114)
Orthodox Synagogue complex, this simple favourite both for meals and as a chill- 4400Ft; hnoon-midnight Mon-Sat; j47 or 49
eatery is as soulless as the devil himself, but out zone. The venue includes both an art This is the place to come if you want to
if you answer to a Higher Authority on mat- gallery and theatre, where events take really dine in style. Mzeum is a caf-
ters culinary, it is another option for kosher place from May to September, along with restaurant that is still going strong after SOUL CAF Map p224 International
food at lunchtime only. (On the Sabbath a restaurant and coffee house. The food is more than a century at the same location %217 6986; IX Rday utca 11-13; starters 590-
meals are available later but you must pay an unusual (but successful) hybrid of Hun- near the National Museum. The food is 1890Ft, mains 1980-2980Ft; hnoon-1am; mM3
for them in advance.) garian, Dutch and Jewish; try the signature excellent and reliable, if not particularly Klvin tr
chicken with honey and garlic or the roast inventive, and there is a good-value, three- One of the better choices along a street full
KINOR DAVID Map p224 Kosher goose leg with apple and red cabbage. course set menu (2600Ft) that is available of so-so restaurants and iffy cafs, the Soul
%512 8783; VII Dohny utca 10; soup 800-1300Ft, Theres live music on Thursday from 7pm. noon to 4pm. has inventive Continental food and dcor.
mains 2800-3200Ft; h11am-11pm Mon-Fri & Sun, You can order anything from a sandwich
PATA NEGRA Map p224 Spanish (850Ft) or a pizza (890Ft to 1500Ft) to a full
noon-2pm Sat; trolleybus 74
Budapests largest kosher restaurant, JZSEFVROS & %215 5616; IX Klvin tr 8; tapas 250-650Ft,
meal, including many vegetarian dishes
(590Ft to 1890Ft). It has a great terrace.
Davids Harp is a cut above the usual and
serves dinner as well. There are special fish
FERENCVROS plates 500-1200Ft; h11am-midnight Mon-Wed,
BIOPONT Map p222 11am-1am Thu & Fri, noon-1am Sat, noon-midnight
Eating

Eating
Vegetarian STEX ALFRED
dishes (3000Ft to 4500Ft) and Israeli treats Sun; mM3 Klvin tr
(2600Ft to 3100Ft) as well. Pay in advance %266 4601; VIII Krdy utca 7; soups 290Ft, dishes Map pp218-19 Hungarian, Late Night
The Black Foot its a special kind of
for Friday dinner and Saturday lunch. 380-660Ft; h10am-10pm Mon-Fri, noon-10pm Sat %318 5716; VIII Jzsef krt 55-57; starters 450-
Spanish cured ham is a new cellar-like
& Sun; j4 or 6 Spanish tapas bar and restaurant at the 1990Ft, mains 950-3000Ft; h8am-6am; mM3
JZSEFVROS & FERENCVROS

JZSEFVROS & FERNCVROS

MAGDALENA MERLO In the Darshan Udvar complex (p124), this (almost) top of trendy Rday utca. There are Ferenc krt
is a pleasant place for a meatless organic good cheese and excellent wine selections, A big, noisy place thats open almost 24
Map p222 Hungarian, Italian
meal, with all dishes available in both full
%322 3278; VII Kirly utca 59; starters 460-520Ft; and its very vegetarian-friendly. hours, the Stex is north of the Applied Arts
and half-portions. There are also bio sand- Museum. The menu offers soups, sand-
mains 1190-2190Ft; h10am-midnight; j4 or 6 wiches (320Ft) and pizzas (800Ft to 1290Ft)
This restaurant, conveniently catty- PINK CADILLAC wiches, pasta, fish and meat dishes as well
if you just want a snack. The attached as vegetarian choices (750Ft to 890Ft). It
cornered from the Ferenc Liszt Academy Samadhi Spiritual Centre hosts all sorts of Map pp218-19 Italian
of Music , serves an odd mix of Hungarian transforms into a lively bar late at night.
programmes, classes and lectures. %216 1412; IX Rday utca 22; pizzas 720-1890Ft, Best of all, theres breakfast (350Ft to 910Ft).
and Italian dishes. Whats more, since it was set menu 2500Ft; h11am-12.30am Sun-Thu,
the Svejk (from Jaroslav Haeks satirical 11am-1am Fri & Sat; g15
novel The Good Soldier Svejk) for many years
CSLK CSRDA Map pp218-19 Hungarian TAIWAN Map pp228-9 Chinese
%210 7897; VIII Berzsenyi utca 4; soups 350-690Ft, More of an upbeat 1950s diner than a piz-
it has retained a page of nostalgic Czech zeria, the Pink Cadillac still reigns supreme %215 1236; IX Gyli t 3/b; soups 395-880Ft,
and Slovak dishes (895Ft to 1390Ft) for starters 790-1500Ft, mains 990-2290Ft; hnoon- mains 960-2250Ft; hnoon-midnight; mM3
on IX Rday utca after all this time. If you
those who cant let go of the memories. 11pm Mon-Fri, 5-11pm Sat & Sun; mM2 Keleti Nagyvrad tr
dont like the surrounds, have it delivered
plyaudvar to Paris Texas (thats a pub next door and In the same building as the Fortuna Hotel
SHALIMAR Map p222 Indian The rough-and-ready Pork Knuckle Inn not some one-horse town in the Lone Star (p164) in south Ferencvros, this mammoth
%352 0297; VII Dob utca 50; starters 690-1680Ft, serves just that and other country special- State; p124). Theres a set menu for 2500Ft. Chinese restaurant (think airline hangar in
mains 1720-2480Ft; hnoon-4pm & 6pm-midnight; ities in enormous quantities in a cellar red) may seem a long way to go for a bit of
restaurant. Slide into one of the wooden rice but its one of the few places in Buda-
j4 or 6 booths and order a plate to share before you SHIRAZ Map pp218-19 Middle Eastern
Shalimar is a rather tired-looking place pest that does decent dim sum.
board your train at the nearby Keleti station. %218 0881; IX Rday utca 21; starters & salads
serving tandoori, tikka and kebab dishes 750-1450Ft, mains 1400-3200Ft; hnoon-mid-
that taste like theyve come via southern VRS POSTAKOCSI
FLEMLE Map p222 Hungarian, Jewish night; g15
Hungary (theres got to be paprika in there Map p224 Hungarian
%266 7947; VIII Kfarag utca 5; soups 570-590Ft, A Persian restaurant with carpets and
somewhere) rather than India, but at least %217 6756; IX Rday 15; soups 750-900Ft, start-
starters 790-2700Ft, mains 1300-3700Ft; hnoon- hookahs loaded with apple, peach and
its a fix when you need it. Were told the ers 990-2190Ft, mains 1590-3600Ft; h11.30am-
strawberry tobacco (990Ft) to lure in the
chefs from Nepal, which may explain 11pm; g7 midnight; g15
punters. The food is tasty but not particu-
the hybrid tastes. Still the mutton biryani This quaint Hungarian restaurant that looks What was for over three decades a
larly substantial and most are stew-like in
(2480Ft) is a force to be reckoned with and like time stood still just before WWII is more than forgettable eatery serving
form and taste.
116 117
 CITY PARK to 590Ft) and salads (890Ft to 990Ft).
www.lonelyplanet.com

www.lonelyplanet.com
There is also a Northern Inner Town branch (Map
BAGOLYVR Map pp218-19 Hungarian p224; %332 9348; V Oktber 6 utca 15;
%468 3110; XIV llatkerti t 2; soups 500-880Ft, h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat; g15)
mains 1330-2400Ft; hnoon-11pm; mM1 Hsk as well as a Buda branch (Map pp21819;
tere %438 3104; II Retek utca 18; h8am-6pm
With reworked Hungarian classics that Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat; mM2 Moszkva tr)
make it a winner, the Owls Castle attracts behind the Mammut shopping mall.
the Budapest cognoscenti, who leave its
THIS IMAGE sister restaurant next door, Gundel, to the
expense-account brigade. Its staffed entirely
FALAFEL FALODA
NOT AVAILABLE by women in the kitchen, at tables and
Map p222 Vegetarian, Israeli
%267 9567; VI Paulay Ede utca 53; small/large
IN PICK & MIX in front of house. (We dont know either.)
sandwiches 400/600Ft, salads 520-700Ft; h10am-
Theres a three-course set menu for 3620Ft.
8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat; trolleybus 70 or 78
This inexpensive place just down from
HAN KUK GUAN Map pp218-19 Korean Budapests theatre district has Israeli-style
%460 0838; XIV Ilka utca 22; dishes 850-2250Ft; nosh. You pay a fixed price to stuff a piece
hnoon-10pm Mon-Sat; trolleybus 75 or 77 of pita bread or fill a plastic container from
No-one is going to be able to tell you what a great assortment of salads. It also has a
a Korean joint is doing way out in district good variety of soups (270Ft to 310Ft).
XIV southeast of City Park, but who cares?
Its about as authentic as youll find. Try any FZELK FAL Map p222 Hungarian, tkezde
of the barbecues or the pajon (green onion
Hungarian stodge and overlooked by all both packaged and baked goods, including %266 6398; VI Nagymez utca 18; dishes 280-
Eating

Eating
pancakes) served with seafood.
but the bravest or most desperate of diners excellent cakes. Set lunches are a bargain at 450Ft; h9am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat;
in Ferencvros has remerged Phoenix-like 490Ft to 990Ft. mM1 Opera
as a trendy retro Hungarian restaurant. If ROBINSON Map pp218-19 International Some people say that this tkezde, which
you want a take on how modern Hungar- PREMIER %422 0222; XIV Vrosligeti t; soups 790-890Ft, keeps relatively extended hours, is the best
ANDRSSY T

CITY PARK
ians think they used to eat when times starters 1990-2890Ft, mains 2790-4800Ft; hnoon- in town. Its very convenient to the bars of
Map pp218-19 Hungarian, International
were tougher (and less health-conscious), 4pm & 6pm-midnight; mM1 Hsk tere Liszt Ferenc tr and the music academy,
visit the Red Postal Coach. %342 1768; VI Andrssy t 101; soups 950- Inside leafy City Park, Robinson is the place but is always busy and it seems like theres
1850Ft, starters 1600-3700Ft, mains 2200-4200Ft; to secure a table on the lakeside terrace on a never a place to sit down.
h11am-11pm; mM1 Bajza utca warm summers evening. There are excellent
ANDRSSY T In the hallowed Art Nouveau-influenced
halls of the Hungarian Journalists Associ-
starters like sliced goose liver (2890Ft) and
homemade venison pt to begin the din-
FRICI PAPA KIFZDJE
GOA Map p224 International ation and just far enough from the House Map p222 Hungarian, tkezde
ing experience. Mains include fogas (Balaton
%302 2570; VI Andrssy t 8; soups 850-1150Ft, of Terror for our comfort, the Premier pike-perch; 3790Ft), grilled tuna and smoked %351 0197; VI Kirly utca 55; soups 280-440Ft,
starters 950-2250Ft, mains 2550-4500Ft; hnoon- attracts a motley crew of media types and duck breast cooked on lava stones. mains 430-530Ft; h11am-9pm Mon-Sat; j4 or 6
midnight; mM1 Bajcsy-Zsilinszky t diplomats from nearby embassies and Papa Franks Canteen is larger and more
This new, very well-dressed kid on the consulates with its Hungarian comfort food modern than most tkezde. Excellent fzelk
block is the place at the mo to be seen
to be A (as in list). Its the trendiest place
and international dishes. Check out the
stained glass.
CHEAP EATS PEST dishes are 290Ft to 340Ft.
CENTRAL EUROPEAN UNIVERSITY
in town and the food is very good. The HROM TESTVR
salads (1450Ft to 2150Ft) are especially VRS S FEHR CAFETERIA Map p224 Self-Service
Map p222 Middle Eastern, Self-Service
recommended. Map p222 %327 3000; V Ndor utca 9; soups 190-235Ft,
Hungarian, Wine %342 2377; VII Erzsbet krt 17; salads 350-
mains 380-495Ft; h11.30am-4pm Mon-Fri; g15
%413 1545; VI Andrssy t 41; soups 650- The cafteria at the conveniently located
450Ft, gyros & kebabs 500-900Ft; h9am-3am;
NAPFNYES ZEK Map pp218-19 Vegetarian 950Ft, starters 1450-1950Ft, mains 1650-4300Ft; Central European University is open to all j4 or 6
%351 5649; VII Rzsa utca 39; soups 450-850Ft, Great any time but especially for a late-
h11am-midnight; mM1 Oktogon and also serves pizza (220ft to 250Ft).
pasta & pizza 1190-1490Ft, mains 1190-1650Ft; The Red and White is all about wine night snack or post-club bit of blotter, the
h10am-11pm Mon-Fri, noon-10.30pm Sat & Sun; Hungarian to be precise and here you Three Brothers have branches throughout
trolleybus 73 or 76
DURCIN Map p224 Sandwiches Pest, including a Szent Istvn krt branch (Map
can order from the top of the shelf by the
Sunny Tastes is a bit out of the way (un- 0.1L to sip and compare. The menu is brief %267 9624; VI Bajcsy-Zsilinszky t 7; sandwiches p222; %329 2951; XIII Szent Istvn krt
less youre staying near Andrssy t, but but has come into its own in recent years. 120-140Ft; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat, 20-22; h9am-3am Sun-Wed, 9am-4am
the wholesome foods and the speciality It hasnt eclipsed the wine but it certainly 8am-noon Sun; mM1/2/3 Dek tr Thu, 9am-5am Fri & Sat; j4 or 6) and a
cakes are worth the trip out here. There is plays a greater role than it did. The pork This is the place to go for bite-sized open- Terz krt branch (Map p222; %312 5835; VI
an organic shop where you can stock up on dishes are superb. face sandwiches as well as soups (510Ft Terz krt 60-62; h9am-3am; j4 or 6).
118 119
 Lonely Planet Publications
HOLLY Map p222 in or take away. Its all pretty samey stuff
www.lonelyplanet.com

Hungarian, tkezde
%772 0895; cnr VI Jkai utca 24; soups & starters but its a budget Asian option in the heart
280-380Ft, mains 410-560Ft; h11.30am-6pm of town.
Mon-Thu, 11.30am-4pm Fri; j4 or 6
This very popular new tkezde is an excel- PICK HZ Map p222 Hungarian, Self-Service
lent place for lunch or an early evening %331 7783; V Kossuth Lajos tr 9; sandwiches &
meal. There are daily specials and the menu salads 140-180Ft, mains 210-580Ft; h8am-4pm
changes every week. Mon-Fri; mM2 Kossuth Lajos tr
Next to M2 Kossuth Lajos tr metro
KDR Map p222 Hungarian, tkezde station, this self-service eatery is above
%321 3622; X Klauzl tr 9; soups 400Ft, mains the famous salami manufacturers central
580-1100Ft; h11.30am-3.30pm Tue-Sat; j4 or 6 showroom, just opposite the Parliament
Located in the heart of the Jewish district, building.
Kdr is probably the most popular and
authentic tkezde you will find in town. Un- SOHO PALACSINTABR
fortunately, it closes for most of the month Map p222 Hungarian
of August. VI Nagymez utca 21; pancakes 198-480Ft; h9am-
3am Mon-Wed, 9am Thu-3am Mon; mM1 Opera
KISHARANG Map p224 Hungarian, tkezde It may not be as popular as the Nagyi
%269 3861; V Oktber 6 utca 17; soups 145-230Ft, Palacsintzja chain (p98), but the Soho
mains 290-850Ft; h11am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11.30am- can provide a fix of palacsinta (Hungarian-
4.30pm Sat & Sun; g15 style pancakes) till the wee hours just as
The central Little Bell is an tkezde that is effortlessly. Try the more unusual pancake
Eating

on the top of the list with students and staff varieties like Mexican. Open non-stop from
of the nearby Central European University. Thursday to Monday morning.
The daily specials are something to look for-
ward to and the retro dcor is a bit of fun.
CHEAP EATS PEST

SZERJ Map p222 Middle Eastern, Self-Service

%311 6690; XIII Szent Istvn krt 13; salads &
NAGY FAL Map p224 Chinese meze 200-400Ft, mains 1100-1250Ft; h9am-5am;
%353 4021; V Ndor utca 20; dishes 410-1595Ft; j4 or 6
h9.30am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-10pm Sat & This is a very inexpensive self-service Turk-
Sun; g15 ish place for felafels and kebabs (700Ft),
This cheap and cheerful Chinese place has with some 10 varieties on offer. Szerj is
a seemingly endless menu of dishes to eat open late.

Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
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120 121
 Lonely Planet Publications

Drinking 123
Bars 123
Traditional Cafs 125

Entertainment
Modern Cafs 127
Teahouses 128
Clubbing 128
Music 130
Classical 130
Folk & Traditional 131
Jazz & Blues 132
Rock & Pop 132
Opera 133
Cinemas 133
Theatre 134
Dance 134
Classical & Modern 134
Folk 135
Activities 135
Health & Fitness 135
Outdoor Activities 138
Watching Sport 139
120
 Entertainment

www.lonelyplanet.com
VI Liszt Ferenc tr (Map p222; mM1 Oktogon), where youll have to duel to the death for a
spot under the plane trees, and IX Rday utca (Map p224; mM3 Klvin tr), a rather subdued
(some might say dull) semipedestrianised street in Jzsefvros full of pubs and bars.

For a city of its size, Budapest has a huge choice of things to do and places to go after dark
from opera and folk dancing to jazz and meat-market clubs. Its almost never difficult get-
DRINKING 150, in fact) go down a treat. Theres music
most nights.
ting tickets or getting in; the hard part is deciding what to do. BARS POCO LOCO Map pp218-19
Budapest (and particularly Pest) is loaded
with pubs and bars and there are enough %326 1357; II Harcsa utca 1; h11am-midnight;
Whats On to satisfy every taste. For popular outdoor j17
Your best sources of information for whats on in the city are the weekly freebie PestiEst venues in season, beyond the pubs and bars At the corner of Harcsa utca and Frankel
(www.est.hu in Hungarian), published every Thursday and available from bars, cinemas with terraces along VI Liszt Ferenc tr and Le t on the way to buda, this one-time
and fast-food joints, and the more thorough weekly with everything from clubs and films up and down IX Rday utca, see the boxed seamy place has cleaned up its act; how-
to art exhibits and classical music Pesti Msor (Budapest Program; www.pestimusor.hu in text, p129. ever, it still remains interesting. Theres live
Hungarian), also called PM Program Magazin, available from newsstands every Thursday music some nights.
for 149Ft. The English-language weekly Budapest Sun also lists events and concerts in its
useful Style supplement. Buda Pest
Other freebies include the vastly inferior (though English- and German-language) Pro- ERZSBET HD ESZPRESSZ Map p220
gramme in Hungary/in Ungarn and its scaled-down monthly version for the capital, Buda- ACTION BAR Map p224
%214 2785; I Dbrentei tr 1; h10am-10pm;
pest Panorama. The free Koncert Kalendrium, published monthly (bimonthly in summer), %266 9148; V Magyar utca 42; h9pm-4am;
has more serious offerings: concerts, opera, dance etc. A welcome arrival is Mr Gordonskys j19 or g86
If youre in the mood for a relaxing drink mM3 Klvin tr
Budapest City Spy Map, a hip little publication with all sorts of insiders tips. Its available The name of this gay bar says it all. Take
in simple surrounds, the Elizabeth Bridge
free at pubs and bars. the usual precautions and have a ball. Strip-
Espresso Bar is a wonderful old dive with a

Entertainment
large terrace and views of the bridge. Most pers and dancers make appearances every
night from about midnight.
Internet Resources people call it Platn in honour of the big
plane tree sheltering the outdoor tables.
The best overall website for happenings in Budapest is BTO (www.budapestinfo.hu), though
you might also try Visitors Guide Budapest (www.visitorsguide.hu). Budapest Week (www.buda BECKETTS Map p222
pestweek.com) has events, music and movie listings. Budapest Sun Online (www.budapestsun KISRABL Map pp228-9 %311 1033; V Bajcsy-Zsilinszky t 72; h10am-
.com) is similar but also has local news, interviews and features. A positive favourite and %209 1588; XI Zenta utca 3; h11am-2am Mon- 1am Sun-Thu, 10am-3am Fri & Sat; mM3 Nyugati

DRINKING
useful in all respects is Pestiside (www.pestiside.hu), subtitled The Daily Dish of Cosmopoli- Sat, noon-2am Sun; j18, 19, 47 or 49 plyaudvar
tan Budapest. Its an acerbic and often very funny take on the capital and includes lots of This pub is close to the university and to Of the capitals ubiquitous Irish pubs, this
listings and reviews of whats on. many of the hostels mentioned in this is the best (and largest) of the lot, with
guide and is thus very popular with stu- all-day breakfast (1600Ft) as well as sand-
dents. But dont be misled; its an attractive wiches (850Ft to 1700Ft) and salads (1200Ft
Tickets & Reservations and well-run place. to 1300Ft). The new cocktail bar in the rear
The most important and/or useful booking agencies in Budapest include those listed below. is an additional plus.
You can book almost everything online through www.jegymester.hu or www.kulturinfo.hu.
The Central Ticket Office (Map p224; Kzponti Jegyiroda; %267 9737, 267 1267; VI Andrssy LNCHD SRZ Map p220
%214 3144; I F utca 4; h10am-midnight; g86
CAF EKLEKTIKA Map p224
t 15; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri; mM1 Opera) is the busiest theatrical ticket agency, with
tickets to plays and other events at theatres around Budapest. Visit the Symphony Ticket Office The Chain Bridge Pub, at the southern end %266 1226; V Semmelweis utca 21; hnoon-
(Map p222; Szimfonikus Jegyiroda; %302 3841; VI Nagymez utca 19; h10am-7pm Mon- of F utca, has a wonderful retro Magyar midnight Mon-Fri, 5pm-midnight Sat & Sun; j47
Fri; mM1 Opera) for tickets to the philharmonic and other classical-music concerts. feel to it, with old movie posters and ad- or 49
Ticket Express (Map p224; %information 312 0000, reservations 06 30 303 0999; www.tex vertisements on the walls and red-checked While there are no specifically lesbian bars
.hu; VI Andrssy t 18; h9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri; mM1 Opera) is the largest ticket-office cloths on the tables. Friendly service too. in Budapest, Caf Eklektika love the name
network in the city with eight outlets, including a Jzsefvros branch (Map p222; %334 0369; and the concept comes the closest and
MCD Zeneruhz, VIII Jzsef krt 50; h9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri; j4 or 6). OSCAR AMERICAN BAR Map pp218-19 attracts a very mixed crowd. Lots of canned
%212 8017; I Ostrom utca 14; h5pm-2am Mon- jazz and the like.
Thu, 5pm-4am Fri & Sat year-round, 5pm-2am Sun
Nightlife Strips & Neighbourhoods Nov-May only; mM2 Moszkva tr CHA CHA CHA Map p224
There are no concentrated nightlife areas on the Buda side, unless you count sedate (some The dcor is cinema-inspired film %215 0545; h8am-3am Mon-Thu, 10am-4am
might say comatose) Castle Hill or the rather dispersed II Moszkva tr (Map pp21819; mM2 memorabilia on the wood-panelled walls, Fri & Sat Sep-May, 9am-11pm Jun-Aug; mM3
Moszkva tr). The Pest side, on the other hand, has all sorts of strips from the ultratour- leather directors chairs and the beautiful Klvin tr
isted V Duna korz (Map p224; j2 or 2/a), along the river, with pricey (and very ordinary) crowd often act like theyre on camera. In the underpass/subway at the Klvin tr
eateries and watering holes, to leafy VI Andrssy t (Map p224; mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc utca) Not to worry the potent cocktails (some metro, this is a campy/groovy caf-bar
always a sophisticated choice for a night out. But the two main areas are ber-trendy
122 123
 with distressed-looking furniture, a very PTKULCS Map p222 DAUBNER CUKRSZDA Map pp226-7
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www.lonelyplanet.com
unusual and were talking Star Wars TOP FIVE DRINKING SPOTS %269 1050; VI Csengery utca 65/b; h5pm- %335 2253; II Szpvlgyi t 50; cakes 150-400Ft;
here crowd, and bopping from the end of 1.30am Sun-Wed, 5pm-2.30am Thu-Sat; mM3 h9am-7pm; g86
the week. Its a great place to meet people, 
Caf Ponyvaragny (p127)

Gerlczy Kvhz (p127) Nyugati plyaudvar A bit far-flung, tis true, and you can only
and it probably gets busier here in the wee nibble on the hoof here; there are no seats.
hours than the entire station does during 
Kt Szerecsen (p128) The Spare Key is a wonderful little drink-

Darshan Udvar (left) ing venue, with a varied menu of live music But it gets rave reviews from locals and
the day. expats alike and has won the Best of Buda-

Oscar American Bar (p123) from 9.30pm most nights and tnchz
(p131) at 8pm every Tuesday. The small pest award for best cake shop.
CHAMPS SPORT BAR Map p224 central courtyard is a wonderful place to
%413 1655; VII Dohny utca 20; %noon-midnight JANIS PUB Map p224 chill out in summer. RUSZWURM Map p220
Sun-Thu, noon-2am Fri & Sat; mM2 Astoria %266 2619; V Kirlyi Pl utca 8; h4pm-2am %375 5284; I Szenthromsg utca 7; cakes 190-
Owned by five Olympic medallists (swim- Mon-Thu, 4pm-3am Fri & Sat; mM3 Klvin tr SZIMPLA Map p222 440Ft; h9am-8pm; g16 or Vrbusz
mer, runners, pentathlete), Champs is the Close to the university, this ever-popular %321 9119, 321 5880; VII Kertsz utca 48; This is the perfect place for coffee and
place for sports fans and the vicarious, with pub is a shrine to the late, great Janis Pearl h10am-2am Sep-May, noon-midnight Jun-Oct; cakes in the Castle District, though it can
two huge screens and 35 TVs. Theres a get pretty crowded and its almost always
wide choice of low-fat fitness meals along
Joplin and usually a stop for a quick one j4 or 6
or two on the way to somewhere else. This is a distressed-looking, very unflashy impossible to get a seat.
with the less healthy favourites of armchair But some linger here for the choice of five three-floor venue the name says it all
athletes. imported beers on draught and the darts. and its just a hop, skip and a tumble
from the stilettos south of Liszt Ferenc tr. Pest
COXX PUB Map p222 KULTIPLEX Map pp218-19 Theres live music three nights a week. CENTRL KVHZ Map p224
%344 4884; VII Dohny utca 38; h9pm-4am %219 0706; IX Kinizsi utca 28; h10am-5am; %266 4572, 266 2110; V Krolyi Mihly utca 9;
Sun-Thu, 9pm-5am Fri & Sat; g7 or 7/a cakes 290-350Ft; h8am-midnight; mM3 Feren-
mM3 Ferenc krt;
This gay cellar bar with the in-your-face This huge complex has something for TRADITIONAL CAFS ciek tere
name has a DJ and small dance floor, but Old-style cafs, some of which date back
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everyone performance space, cinema, This grande dame, which reopened a few
its more of a pub than a club. Theres a grill restaurant, great DJs, theme parties as much as a century and a half, abound years ago after extensive renovations, is
gallery and Internet caf (hnoon-4am Mon- and a simple inside/outside bar, where you in Budapest and some of them are classic still jostling to reclaim her title as the place
Fri, 9pm-4am Sat & Sun) at street level just can enjoy an unreconstructed drink. examples of their type. They were the cen- to sit and look intellectual in Pest. It serves
to let you know this place has a serious tre of social life and in them alliances were meals (mains 1990Ft to 3590Ft) as well as
side too. formed and momentous events plotted. For
MYSTERY BAR Map p222 more, see boxed text, p126. The majority are
lighter fare such as sandwiches (750Ft to
1190Ft), omelettes (890Ft to 990Ft) and, of
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DARSHAN UDVAR Map p222 %312 1436; V Nagysndor Jzsef utca 3; h4pm- in Pest, but Buda can lay claim to several
4am Mon-Fri, 6pm-4am Sat & Sun; mM3 Arany course, cakes and pastries.
%266 5541; VIII Krdy utca 7; h11am-1am Mon- good examples.
Jnos utca
Fri, 6pm-1am Sat & Sun; j4 or 6 FRHLICH Map p224
This miniscule gay neighbourhood bar
This cavernous complex of two bars, a res-
taurant and a courtyard-terrace vegetarian
with draped muslin and Greek statuary also Buda %267 2851; VII Dob utca 22; cakes 350-500Ft;
caf with dcor that combines Euro-techno
moonlights as an Internet caf (p189) and is ANGELIKA Map p220 h9am-8pm Mon-Thu, 7.30am-6pm Fri, 10am-6pm
just the ticket for boyz who want to log on %212 3784; I Batthyny tr 7; cakes 310Ft; h9am- Sun; trolleybus 74
with Eastern flair is a great escape from
and get off. 2am; mM2 Batthyny tr This ancient cake shop and caf in the
the bars of VI Liszt Ferenc tr and IX Rday
utca. In fact, Krdy utca may be poised to Angelika is a charming caf attached to an former ghetto makes and sells old Jewish
take over as Budapests next after-hours PARIS TEXAS Map pp218-19 18th-century church, with a lovely terrace favourites such as fldni, a three-layer cake
strip. There are pizzas (880Ft to 1500Ft) and %218 0570; IX Rday utca 22; h10am-1am overlooking the Danube. The food (salads with apple, walnut and poppy-seed fill-
pasta dishes (550Ft to 1050Ft) as well as Sun & Mon, 10am-3am Tue-Sat; mM3 Klvin tr from 490Ft to 1490Ft, sandwiches from ings, and kindli, cookies with nuts or poppy
more substantial mains (1290Ft to 2500Ft) A coffee-house feel, with old sepia-tinted 750Ft to 850Ft) is just so-so; come here for seeds.
to accompany the liquid offerings. photos on the walls and pool tables. Nurse the cakes and the views.
a cocktail from the huge list and order a GERBEAUD Map p224
FEHR GYR Map p222 pizza from Pink Cadillac (p117) next door. AUGUSZT Map pp218-19 %429 9020; V Vrsmarty tr 7-8; cakes 580-850Ft;
%312 1863; V Balassi Blint utca 27; h1pm- %356 8931, 316 3817; II Fny utca 8, 1st fl; cakes h9am-9pm; mM1 Vrsmarty tr
midnight Mon-Thu, 1pm-1am Fri & Sat, 5pm- PICASSO POINT Map p222 150-350Ft; h10am-6pm Tue-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat; This is the most famous of the famous
midnight Sun %312 1727; VI Hajs utca 31; hnoon-midnight mM2 Moszkva tr cafs in Budapest bar none. Founded in
The White Ring has always been a firm Mon-Wed, noon-2am Thu & Fri, 4pm-2am Sat; Tucked away on the 1st floor of a building 1858, it has been a fashionable meeting
favourite and its still not clear why. Perhaps mM3 Arany Jnos utca behind the Fny utca market and Mammut place for the citys elite on the northern
its because it is opposite the White House A stalwart of the Budapest entertainment shopping mall, this is the original Auguszt side of Pests busiest square since 1870. A
(p82) and its always fun to spot MPs. More scene, Picasso Point is a laid-back place for caf (there are imitators) and only sells visit is mandatory. It also does continental
likely its because there are so few pubs in a drink and good for meeting people. Great its own shop-made cakes, pastries and breakfast (2880Ft) and sandwiches (1300Ft
this area. dcor. biscuits. to 2500Ft).
124 125
 MODERN CAFS CAF CSIGA Map pp218-19
www.lonelyplanet.com

www.lonelyplanet.com
MY CAF, MY CASTLE A new breed of caf all polished chrome, %210 0885; VIII Vsr utca 2; h11am-1pm Mon-
Caf life has a longer (and arguably more colourful) history in Budapest than in any other city in Europe. The Turks halogen lighting and straight lines now co- Sat Oct-May, 6am-1am Mon-Sat Jun-Sep; j4 or 6
introduced coffee to Hungary in the early 16th century, and the coffee house was an essential part of the social scene exists with the more traditional cafs. There This very popular, eclectically decorated
here long before it had even made an appearance in Vienna or Paris. In the final decades of the Austro-Hungarian are a few of these in Buda but the lions share caf-cum-bar just opposite the Rkczi tr
Empire, Budapest had some 600 cafs. is in Pest, especially in VI Liszt Ferenc tr. market attracts a mixed, arty crowd.
Budapest cafs were a lot more than just places to drink coffee that was black like the devil, hot like hell and There are also a few on IX Rday utca and
sweet like a kiss as they used to say. In them, momentous events were plotted or took place, great alliances formed in V Szent Istvn tr behind the Basilica of St CAF VIAN Map p222
and rivalries spawned, chefs duvre written or sketched. To the English aphorism about the sanctity of ones house, Stephen. Almost all do food, some complete %268 1154; VI Liszt Ferenc tr 9; h9am-1am;
the great writer Dezs Kosztolnyi had a reply in his essay Budapest, City of Cafs: Az n kvhzam, az n vram (My meals, as well as serve hot and cold drinks.
mM1 Oktogon
caf is my castle). This comfortable caf all done up in
The Budapest caf of the 19th century embodied the progressive liberal ideal that people of all races and classes warm peach tones and serving breakfast
could mingle under one roof, and acted as an incubator for Magyar culture. Combining the neighbourliness of a local Buda all day remains the anchor tenant on
pub, the bonhomie of a gentlemens club and the intellectual activity of an open university, coffee houses were places CAF MIR Map p220 the sunny side of the tr and the court of
to relax, gamble, work, network, do business and debate. %201 5573; I ri utca 30; h9am-midnight; g16 Pests arty aristocracy.
Or start revolutions... On the morning of 15 March 1848, the future novelist Mr Jkai stood on a table on the Pilvax or Vrbusz
Caf in the Inner Town to proclaim the demands of the Hungarian nation. The so-called Youth of March then took over A personal favourite in the Castle District; CASTRO BISZTR Map pp228-9
a printing shop two streets away to print copies of their Twelve Points (p43) and marched to the National Museum. Mir has Med-coloured walls and furniture,
The rest, as they say, is history. snacks, cakes (300Ft to 470Ft) and main %215 0814; IX Rday utca 35; h9am-midnight
Different cafs catered to different groups. Actors preferred the Pannnia and businessmen the Orczy while car- courses (1790Ft to 2890Ft) and local artwork Mon-Thu, 9am-1am Fri, 2pm-1am Sat, 2pm-
toonists frequented the Lnchd and stockbrokers the Lloyd. But the two most important in terms of the citys cultural and photography on the walls. Its open on midnight Sun; g15
life were the Japn and the New York. two sides. Theres also a Pest branch called This eclectic place has a mixed clientele,
The Caf Japn at VI Andrssy t 45 now, fittingly, rk Boltja (the Writers Bookshop; p150) was a favour- Mir Grande (Map p222; %321 8666; VI Liszt Serbian dishes and chilli (990Ft to 1780Ft)
ite haunt of artists and architects and attracted the likes of Kosztka Tivadar Csontvry, Jzsef Rippl-Rnai, Pl Ferenc tr 9; h10am-2am; mM1 Oktogon). on its menu and a few terminals for logging
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Merse Szinyei and dn Lechner. The New York Caf, which opened in 1894 at VII Erzsbet krt 9-11 and quickly on to the Internet (100Ft for 10 minutes).
became the citys most celebrated literary caf, hosted virtually every Hungarian writer of note at one time or CAF PONYVARAGNY Map pp228-9 Its one of the few places on the strip that is
another from Kosztolnyi and Endre Ady to Gyula Krdy and Ferenc Molnr. Molnr, playwright-in-residence at crowded all year.
%209 5255; XI Bercsnyi utca 5; h10am-midnight
the Comedy Theatre, famously threw the key to the New York into the Danube the night the caf opened so that
Mon-Sat, 2pm-midnight Sunday; j18, 19, 47 or 49
it would never close. And thats just what it did, remaining open round the clock 365 days a year for decades.
The Pulp Fiction is a great new place thats
GERLCZY KVHZ Map p224
But all good things must come to an end, and the depression of the 1930s, WWII and the dreary days of communism
supposed to be a local secret but alas %235 0953; V Gerlczy utca 1; h7am-11pm
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conspired against grand old cafs in favour of the cheap (and seldom cheerful) eszpressz. By 1989 and the return of Mon-Fri, 8am-11pm Sat & Sun; j47 or 49
is no longer. The old books and fringed
the Republic of Hungary only about a dozen remained and since then even the New York, where the influential literary This wonderful retro-style caf looks out
lampshades are a nice touch and the coffee
magazine 2000 was edited right up into the 1990s, has been turned into a swanky five-star hotel. (230Ft to 645Ft) is some of the best in town. onto one of Pests most attractive little
Nowadays youre more likely to find young Budapesters drinking a beer or a glass of wine at one of the new modern squares and serves excellent snacks and
cafs. Its true the caf is very much alive in Budapest. Its just reinvented itself, thats all. light meals (690Ft to 1790Ft), including a
Pest cheese plate sent over from the excellent
BALLET CIP Map p222 Nagy Tams (p93) cheese shop around the
HAUER CUKRSZDA Map pp218-19 MVSZ Map p222 corner.
%269 3114; VI Hajs utca 14; h8am-1am Mon-
%323 1476; VIII Rkczi t 47-49; cakes 150- %352 1337; VI Andrssy t 29; cakes 280-480Ft; Fri, 10am-midnight Sat & Sun; mM1 Opera
350Ft; h9am-10pm; mM2 Blaha Lujza tr h9am-11.45pm; mM1 Opera The pretty little Ballet Slipper in the the-
This Art Deco (but frayed) caf is often over- Almost opposite the State Opera House, the atre district and just behind the opera
looked in favour of its sexier cousins, and Artist is a more interesting place to people- house is a delightful place to stop for a rest
is a real find for that. The cakes may not be watch than most cafs (especially from the and refreshment or to have a light meal
Gerbeaud-quality, but it feels local and real. terrace), though its cakes are not what they (dishes 800Ft to 1500Ft).
used to be, with the exception of the alms
LUKCS Map p222 torta (apple cake). Its been here since 1898.
BIRDLAND Map p222 THIS IMAGE
%302 8747; VI Andrssy t 70; cakes 200-500Ft;
SZALAI Map p222
%413 7983; VI Liszt Ferenc tr 7; h9am-1am; NOT AVAILABLE
h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat & Sun; mM1
Vrsmarty utca %269 3210; V Balassi Blint utca 7; cakes 150-
mM1 Opera IN PICK & MIX
This new venue at the southern end of
This caf is dressed up in the finest of 320Ft; h9am-7pm Wed-Mon; j2 or 2/a Liszt Ferenc tr is surprisingly bereft of jazz
divine decadence all mirrors and gold This humble little cake shop in the North- despite its name. It is, however, the ideal
and soft piano music (on weekday eve- ern Inner Town and just north of Parlia- spot to catch strains from musicians prac-
nings) with a nonsmoking section too. The ment probably has the best cherry strudel tising music at the academy just opposite.
selection of cakes is small but good; try the in the capital (though its cream cakes go The food (starters 950Ft to 1750Ft, mains
creamy Lukcs szelet (Lukcs slice). down a treat as well). 1450Ft to 2750Ft) gets good reports.
126 127
 INCOGNITO CAF Map p222 on pillows in a Japanese-style tearoom. You
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www.lonelyplanet.com
%342 1471; VI Liszt Ferenc tr 3; hnoon- midnight can also sit and sip on the tea chests in the THE HEAT IS ON
Mon-Wed, noon-2am Thu-Sat, 2pm-midnight Sun courtyard. Theres a shop here too.
During Budapests (usually) very long and very hot summer, what are called kertek, literally gardens but in Budapest
The Unknown is hardly that. It was the first any outdoor spot that has been converted into an entertainment zone (including courtyards and any available stretch
caf to open on what everyone now calls MOZAIK TEAHZ Map p224
along the river), have been emptying out even the most popular indoor bars and clubs since 1999. The venues (and
the tr, way back in 1994, and its still low- %266 7001; VI Kirly utca 18; h10am-10.30pm their locations) can change from year to year and a definitive list is usually not available until about May; the best
key and going strong. Mon-Fri, 1-10.30pm Sat & Sun Oct-May, 11am- single source of information is the Pestiside website (www.pestiside.hu). Some of the places listed under Bars (p123)
10.30pm Mon-Fri, 4-10.30pm Sat & Sun Jun-Sep; and under Clubbing (opposite) have their own outside equivalent, and there are gardens that only blossom in sum-
KT SZERECSEN Map p222 j4 or 6 mer. Some of the more popular ones in recent years include those listed below.
%343 1984; VI Nagymez utca 14; h8am-1am An eclectic note the mosaic of a satyr Caf del Rio (Map pp2289; %06 30 297 2158; www.rio.hu in Hungarian; XI Goldman Gyrgy tr 1; h2pm-
Sun-Thu, 9am-1am Fri & Sat outside rarity among Budapest teahouses: 4.30am; j4 or 6) On the northern side of Petfi Bridge on the Buda side, Rio is stylish but not up itself, with a
Not on the square but close enough, the nonNew Age music played and smoking pseudo tropical/carnival theme.
very relaxed Two Moors serves both main permitted.
meals (starters from 690Ft to 1100Ft, mains Cha Cha Cha Terasz (Map pp21819; %215 0545; www.chachacha.hu in Hungarian; XIII Margit-sziget; h4pm-
4am; g26, j4 or 6) In the stadium at the southern tip of Margaret Island, Cha Cha Cha Terasz is an attitude-free
1250Ft to 3190Ft) and decent breakfasts TEAHZ A VRS OROSZLNHOZ venue with great music and dance space.
(590Ft to 680Ft till 11am) as well as coffee. Map p222
Holdudvar (Map p224; %485 5270; VIII Mzeum krt 6-8; mM2 Astoria; h8am-4am) This large courtyard on
%269 0579; VI Jkai tr 8; h11am-11pm Mon-
NEGRO Map p224 Fri, 3-11pm Sat, 5-11pm Sun; mM1 Oktogon
the grounds of the ELTE, the citys largest university, has a predictably split personality: earnest and coffee-drinking,
wild and out of control.
%302 0136; V Szent Istvn tr 11; h8am- This serene place with quite a mouthful of
midnight Sun, 8am-1am Mon-Wed, 8am-3am Thu & a name (it just means Teahouse at the Sign Mokka Cuka (Map pp2267; %453 2120; www.mokkacuka.hu; III buda Hajgyri-sziget; h2pm-4am; HV
Fri, 8am-4am Sat; mM3 Arany Jnos utca of the Red Lion) just north of Liszt Ferenc Filatorigt) On the island that attracts the capitals beautiful people, Mokka Cuka is a leading outdoor underground
This stylish caf just behind the basilica tr is quite serious about its teas (480Ft venue showcasing great indie DJs.
(views!) attracts Budapests ber-trendy to 630Ft). Theres also a Rday utca branch Szimpla Kert (Map p222; %06 20 248 1968, 321 5880; www.szimpla.hu; VII Kazinczy 14; hnoon-midnight; trol-
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crowd, dressed to the nines (or did we see (Map p224; %215 2101; IX Rday utca 9; leybus 74) One of the capitals first gardens, Szimpla is just that a simple, low-key affair that keeps itself to itself.
10s too?) and sipping the latest concoction. h11am-11pm Mon-Sat, 3pm-11pm Sun). Szda Udvar (Map p87; %461 0007; V Jzsef ndor tr 1; mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc tr; h2pm-4am) This rather
Breakfasts are a snip at 320Ft to 910Ft. well-heeled venue a former bank headquarters pulls in a rather subdued crowd that lets loose on the basement
dance floor in the wee hours.
TEAHOUSES CLUBBING
Like everywhere else, clubs in Budapest do
Zld Pardon (Map pp2289; www.zp.hu in Hungarian; XI Goldman Gyrgy tr; h9am-6am; j4 or 6) What bills
itself as the worlds longest summer festival is a rockers paradise just opposite the Caf del Rio.
Teahouses serving every imaginable type of
CLUBBING

CLUBBING
tea and tisane have become very trendy in not really get off the ground until well after
Budapest in recent years and theyre often Cinderellas coach has turned into a pump-
quite stylish places. kin or even later. Budapests hottest DJs CLUB BOHEMIAN ALIBI Map pp228-9 a true chameleon, with a different party in
include Palotai, Naga and Yonderboy. %06 20 314 1959; IX lli t 45-47; h4pm-4am the swing every night of the week from
Sun-Thu, 9pm-4am Fri & Sat; mM3 Ferenc krt La Noche Cubana on Friday to live bands
Buda ANGEL Map p222 This gay club attracts ladies and gentlemen on Monday.
DEMMERS TEAHZ Map pp218-19 %351 6490; VII Kazinczy utca 2; h10pm-5am and anything in between. Its the preferred
%345 4150; II Lvhz utca 12; h9.30am-7.30pm; Fri-Sun; mM2 Astoria watering hole of Budapests burgeoning TV KZGZ PINCE KLUB Map pp218-19
mM2 Moszkva tr Angel, also known by its Hungarian name, population, so if youre into cross-dressing %215 4359, 218 6855; IX Fvm tr 8; h9pm-
Angyal, is Budapests flagship gay club or cross-dressers, this is the place. 5am Tue-Sat; j47 or 49
This cosy little teahouse next to the Mam-
mut shopping mall is the place to come in even since its big move in 2005 after some- With few frills and cheap covers at the
Buda if youre serious about your cuppa thing like a decade. It welcomes girls on Fri- CLUB VITTULA Map p222 Economics University, this is the pick-up
cha (180Ft to 400Ft). Theres also a Pest day and Sunday but boyz only on Saturday. %06 20 527 7069; VII Kertsz utca 4; h6pm- venue of choice for many a student and
branch (Map p222; %302 5674; VI Pod- dawn Sep-Jun; mM2 Blaha Lujza tr, j4 or 6 theres plenty of dance room. Beware: the
maniczky utca 14; h11am-9pm Mon-Sat, BANK DANCE HALL Map p222 Probably the best place to get drunk and bouncers bite, and avoid Wednesday unless
1-9pm Sun; mM3 Nyugati plyaudvar). %06 20 344 4888; VI Terz krt 55; h10pm- dance in Budapest at the moment, with you like karaoke.
4am Sun-Thu, 10pm-5am Fri & Sat; mM3 Nyugati cutting-edge DJs and cheap Slovakian
plyaudvar blond (beer that is). Need we say more? PIAF Map p222
Pest In the southern wing of Nyugati train station %312 3823; VI Nagymez utca 25; h7pm-6am;
1000 TEA Map p224 next to McDonalds, this positively enor- KAMLEON Map pp218-19 mM3 Arany Jnos utca, trolleybus 70 or 78
%337 8217; V Vci utca 65; hnoon-9pm Mon- mous disco has rhythm and blues on the 1st %345 8547; Mammut II, 4th fl, II Lvhz utca Piaf is the place to go when everything else
Sat; g15 floor, house and trance on the 2nd, Dance 2-6; h5pm-midnight Sun-Thu, 5pm-3am Fri & Sat; slows down. Theres dancing and action
In a small courtyard off lower Vci utca, this on the 3rd and funk-house (a Hungarian mM3 Moszkva tr well into the new day. Most of the action
is the place if you want to sip a soothing thing) on the 4th. Lots of young suburban This throbbing club in the newer wing of and characters are in the smoky cavern
blend made by tea-serious staff and lounge types reeking of cologne and on the prowl. Budas massive Mammut shopping mall is below.
128 129
 SARK CAF Map p222 FERENC LISZT ACADEMY OF MUSIC mentioned on p122 or check out the website
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www.lonelyplanet.com
%06 30 282 9625; VII Klauzl tr 14; h10am- GAY & LESBIAN VENUES Map p222 of the Dance House Guild (www.tanchaz
3am Sun-Thu, 10am-5am Fri & Sat; j4 or 6 Liszt Zeneakadmia; %342 0179; www.zeneakade .hu). The best local klezmer (p19) is the Buda-
What a difference a decade and a half makes! With pest Klezmer Band. See the bands website
This popular alternative music pub and only a couple of sleazy actually scary dives full mia.hu; VI Liszt Ferenc tr 8; hticket office 10am-
club on three floors has a big cellar with a (www.budapestklezmer.hu) for concert dates
of Romanian and Transylvanian hustlers a mere 15 8pm Mon-Fri, 2-8pm Sat & Sun; mM1 Oktogon and venues.
dance floor where bands occasionally per- years ago, Budapest now counts upwards of 20 gay A block southeast of Oktogon, whats usu-
form. Its all a bit student-clubbish, though. Two cultural houses in Buda have fre-
venues and can lay claim to being Central Europes ally just called the music academy was built quent folk programmes. The Folklr Cen-
gayest city. For useful websites, organisations and in 1907. It attracts students from all over trum in the Municipal Cultural House (Fvrosi
SSS FL NAP Map p222 other information, see p188. the world and is one of the top venues for Mveldsi Hza; Map pp2289; %203
%374 3329; V Honvd utca 40; h5pm-5am; Budapests flagship gay club is Angel (p128) but concerts. The interior, with large and small 3868; XI Fehrvri t 47; j41 or 47),
j4 or 6 youll probably do better starting the evening off at concert halls richly embellished with Zsolnay presents folk music every Friday at 7.30pm
Attracting a student crowd, this cellar club Mystery Bar (p124) or CoXx Pub (p124). Theres a porcelain and frescoes, is worth a look even and a childrens dance house hosted by the
hosts lots of student bands and visiting tal- lot to say for Club Bohemian Alibi (p129) though if youre not attending a performance. incomparable Muzsiks (p19) every Tues-
ent. Its a lot of fun and less expensive than we cant think of anything just now and if youre day from 5pm to 6.30pm. The Marczibnyi tr
many of the other clubs. Its one of the feeling frisky head for Action Bar (p123). Another BUDA SOCIETY Map pp226-7 Cultural Centre (Marczibnyi tri Mveldsi
few places in town offering a two-for-one great club is Upside Down (left). budai Trsaskr; %250 0288; www.obudaitarsas Kzpont; Map pp21819; %212 0803, 212
happy hour (5pm to 8pm). Choices are more limited for girlz but theres al- kor.hu; III Kis Korona utca 7; HV Tmr utca, g86 2820; II Marczibnyi tr 5/a; j4, 6 or 49)
ways Caf Eklektika (p123) and Angel (above) on This very intimate venue surrounded by has Hungarian, Moldavian and Slovakian
TRAF BR TANG Map pp228-9 Friday and Sunday nights if they dont mind a mixed appalling buda housing estates takes its dance and music every Wednesday starting
scene. Lesbian parties are held on the first Friday of the from 8pm. Certain bars, including Ptkulcs
%456 2049; IX Liliom utca 41; h6pm-4am; month at Jailhouse (p132) and on the last Saturday of
music very seriously and hosts recitals and
mM3 Ferenc krt some chamber orchestras. (p125) also have dance house one or two
the month at a bar called Candy (Map p224; %789 nights a week.
In the basement of the Traf House of Con- 2130; V Kossuth Lajos utca 17; mM2 Astoria).
temporary Arts (p134), whats also called PALACE OF ARTS Map pp228-9
Mvszetek Palotja; %information 555 3000, ALMSSY TR RECREATION CENTRE
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Tt Tang is one place that attracts arty
(ie less booze, more smoke) types and their Memorial House (p61); the Military History tickets 555 3301; www.mupa.hu; IX Komor Marcell Map pp218-19
hangers-on. Museum (p56); the Mcsarnok (p72); the utca; hticket office 1-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-3pm Almssy tri Szabadid Kzpont; %352 1572; VII
Kiscelli Museum (p60); and the Hungarian Sun; j2 or 2/a Almssy tr 6; trolleybus 74
UPSIDE DOWN Map p222 Academy of Sciences (p66). The main concert halls in this palatial new This venue west of Keleti train station
%06 20 982 2884; V Podmaniczky tr 1; h8pm- Organ recitals are best heard in the citys arts centre by the Danube and just oppo- has just about anything thats in and/or
MUSIC

MUSIC
4am or 5am; mM3 Arany Jnos utca churches, including Matthias Church (p55), site the National Theatre are the 1700-seat interesting, from rock and blues to jazz,
Below a coffee shop of the same name on St Annes Church (p58), the Basilica of St National Concert Hall (Nemzeti Hangverseny- but especially folk music. Theres Hungar-
the southern side of Podmaniczky tr, this Stephen (p64) and the Inner Town Parish terem) and the smaller Festival Theatre (Fesz- ian dance house every second Saturday at
is one of the hottest new gay clubs in town. Church (p64). tivl Sznhz), accommodating up to 450 7.30pm.
people. Both are purported to have the
WEST BALKAN CLUB BAR Map pp218-19 BUDAPEST CONGRESS CENTRE best acoustics in Budapest. ARANYTZ CULTURAL CENTRE
%371 1807; VIII Kisfaludy utca 36; hnoon- Map pp218-19 Map p224
dawn; mM3 Ferenc krt Budapesti Kongresszusi Kzpont; %information PESTI VIGAD Map p224 Aranytz Mveldsi Kzpont; %354 3400, 311
This place without a sign has something 372 5700, tickets 372 5429; www.bcc.hu; XII Jagell V Vigad tr 2; %318 9903, 318 9167; V Vigad tr 2248; V Arany Jnos utca 10; g15
for everyone from live music and/or DJ t 1-3; g8 or 112 2; mM1 Vrsmarty tr, j2 or 2/a With programmes from 5pm on Saturday
to bars in the garden and films on the big This modern conference centre in Buda This Romantic-style hall built in 1865 and and frequently running to well after 2am,
screen. Bit alternative. moonlights as a concert hall and has re- facing the Danube to the west of Vrs- this gleaming new cultural centre in the
cently undergone a major renovation marty tr is a popular venue for concerts, Northern Inner Town hosts the incompar-
supposedly to improve its poor acoustics. dance performances and other cultural able Kalamajka Tnchz.
MUSIC Big-ticket galas and opening nights are
frequently held here.
events. It was badly damaged during WWII
and, though the original style of the exter-
FON BUDA MUSIC HOUSE
ior was retained, the interior is all new and
CLASSICAL DUNA PALOTA Map p224 has been recently renovated. Map pp228-9
The Koncert Kalendrium (p122) highlights Fon Budai Zenehz; %206 5300; www.fono.hu;
all concerts in Budapest monthly, and most Danube Palace; %235 5500, 317 2790; V Zrnyi XI Sztregova utca 3; j41 or 47
nights youll have several to choose from.
As well as the citys main concert halls listed
utca 5; g15
This elaborate palace diagonally opposite
FOLK & TRADITIONAL Fon Buda has regular programmes at 8pm
Authentic tnchz, literally dance house but on Wednesday and the second Friday of
below, many museums and other venues the main Central European University build- really folk-music workshops, are held at vari- each month as well as concerts by big-name
feature chamber music including the Old ing hosts light classical music and touristy ous locations throughout the week, but less bands throughout each month; its one
Music Academy, where the Franz Liszt Mem- musical revues in summer. Its biggest draw- often in summer. Times and venues change of the best venues in town for this sort of
orial Museum (p71) is housed; Bla Bartk card is its folk-dance performances (p135). frequently; consult one of the publications thing. Consult the website for more details.
130 131
 JAZZ & BLUES ened things for 1400Ft to 2900Ft) and live ERKEL THEATRE Map pp218-19
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www.lonelyplanet.com
jazz music courtesy of Mr Louis Armstrong ROCK & POP MEGAVENUES Erkel Sznhz; %333 0540; VIII Kztrsasg tr 30;
COLUMBUS JAZZKLUB Map p224 from Thursday to Saturday nights.
Budapest counts a trio of venues for big-name local hticket office 11am-7pm Tue-Fri, 11am-3pm Sat,
%266 9013; www.majazz.hu; V Pesti Als rakpart;
and international acts, all of them in Pest and within 10am-1pm & 4-7pm Sun; mM2 Keleti plyaudvar,
hnoon-midnight; j2 or 2/a
On a boat moored in the Danube just north ROCK & POP walking distance of one another. g7 or 7/a
of V Vigad tr opposite the Budapest Budapest Sportarna (Mapp pp21819; %422 Budapests modern (and ugly) second opera
A38 HAJ Map pp228-9 house is southwest of Keleti train station.
Inter-Continental Hotel, this club has trans- 2600; www.budapestarena.hu; XIV Stefnia t 2;
%464 3940; www.a38.hu; XI Megyetem rakpart; Tickets are sold just inside the main door.
formed itself from being just another Irish mM2 Stadionok) Near Keleti train station, this
pub to a jazz club of note, with big-name h4pm-midnight Tue-Sat, 4pm-midnight Sun & new arena named after the Hungarian pugilist
local and international bands. Mon; j4 or 6 Lszl Papp is where the likes of Phil Collins, Duran HUNGARIAN STATE OPERA HOUSE
Moored on the Buda side just south of Duran, Simply Red and Jo Cocker warble. Map p222
Petfi Bridge, the A38 Ship is a decommis-
COTTON CLUB Map p222 Kisstadion (Map pp21819; %471 4306, Magyar llami Operahz; %information 353 0170,
sioned Ukrainian stone hauler from 1968
%354 0886; www.cottonclub.hu; VI Jkai utca 26; that has been reinvented as a party venue. 251 1222; XIV Szab Jzsef utca 1; g7, trolleybus tickets 332 7914; www.opera.hu; VI Andrssy t 22;
hnoon-midnight Mon-Sat; j4 or 6 Its so cool its hot in summer and the hold, 72 or 75) This venue is smaller than the nearby Buda- hticket office 11am-7pm Mon-Sat, 4-7pm Sat &
This centrally located restaurant and well, rocks throughout the year. pest Sportarna and thus something of an elephants Sun; mM1 Opera
nightclub with the predictable gangster- graveyard (think, Rod Stewart) for international acts. The gorgeous neo-Renaissance opera
and-moll dcor (complete with cigar room) Petfi Csarnok (Map pp21819; %363 3730, 251 house should be visited at least once to
has live jazz lets say jazz lite nightly at GDR KLUB Map p224
7266; www.petoficsarnok.hu; XIV Zichy Mihly t admire the incredibly rich decoration inside
7.30pm or 8pm, with additional concerts at %06 20 943 5464; Erzsbet tr; h9am-late; 14; hticket office 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm as much as to view a performance and hear
10.30pm on Friday and Saturday. Starters m1/2/3 Dek Ferenc tr Sat & Sun; mM1 Szchenyi frd, trolleybus 72 the perfect acoustics. Visits are guided.
are 1590Ft to 1990Ft and mains 1790Ft to This new arrival in the old bus bays below or 74) The citys main youth centre, the PC is in
3890Ft; three-course set menus come in at Elizabeth Sq in central Pest is a real mixed City Park and the place for smaller rock concerts
5260Ft and 7360Ft. bag, offering everything from folk and jazz (Jamiroquai, Yngwie Malmsteen etc).
CINEMAS
Entertainment

Entertainment
but especially rock.
Some 26 mozi (movie houses) show English-
FAT MOS MUSIC CLUB Map p224 language films with Hungarian subtitles.
%267 3199; V Nyry Pl utca 11; hnoon-2am Mon JAILHOUSE Map pp228-9 TZRAKTR Map pp228-9 Consult the listings in the Budapest Sun
& Tue, noon-3am Wed, noon-4am Thu & Fri, 6pm-4am %06 30 989 4905, 218 1368; IX Tzolt utca 22; %06 70 523 1593; http://tuzrakter.hu; IX Tzolt newspaper, PestiEst or Pesti Msor (p122).
Sat, 6pm-2am Sun; mM3 Ferenciek tere, g15 h10pm-5am Fri & Sat; mM3 Ferenc krt utca 54-56; h5pm-3am; m3 Klinikk Be aware that many foreign films are
With a speakeasy Prohibition theme and This tiny venue with a friendly atmosphere The Fire Warehouse, an abandoned factory dubbed into Hungarian, so try asking the
MUSIC

OPERA
enough beer and booze to fill Bonnie and has underground DJs and live music. Its an building, and its big courtyard plays host to ticket seller if the film retains the original
Clyde (with bullets, that is), FMs has live excellent place to part ways from the usual all sorts of cultural and party events. soundtrack and has Hungarian subtitles
jazz (and sometimes country) from 9pm choice of venues. It hosts a lesbian night on (feliratos) or is dubbed (szinkronizlt or
or 9.30pm daily. DJs take over at midnight the first Friday of the month. WIGWAM ROCK & BLUES CLUB magyarul beszl). The latter is often ab-
Thursday to Saturday. Map pp228-9 breviated as mb in listings.
LASER THEATRE Map pp228-9
%208 5569; XI Fehrvri utca 202; h8pm-5am;
JAZZ GARDEN Map p224 Lzer Sznhz; %263 0871, 281 2211; www.lezer CORVIN FILM PALACE Map pp218-19
j41 or 47
%266 7364; V Veres Pln utca 44/a; h6pm-1am szinhaz.hu; X Npliget; adult/student 2090/1590Ft; This place with the wacky name (did the Corvin Filmpalota; %459 5050; VIII Corvin kz 1;
Sun-Thu, 6pm-2am Fri & Sat; j47 or 49 hperformances 7.30pm Mon-Sat; mM3 Npliget Sioux do Elvis before his time?) is one of mM3 Ferenc krt
This is a sophisticated venue with traditional, At the Planetarium in Npliget, the Laser the best of its kind in Hungary and hosts This place saw a lot of action during the
vocal and Latin jazz and odd dcor a faux Theatre has a mixed bag of video (some some big-name Hungarian rock and blues 1956 Uprising and led a revolution of a dif-
cellar garden with street lamps and a night 3D) concerts with laser and canned music bands on Friday and Saturday nights. ferent sort four decades later the intro-
sky bedecked with blinking stars. Book featuring the likes of Madonna, Pink Floyd, duction of state-of-the-art sound systems
a table (starters 1420Ft to 2250Ft, mains Queen, Mike Oldfield, Vangelis and Enigma, and comfortable seating. It has now has
2250Ft to 3490Ft) in the dining room; music
starts here at 9.30pm.
and performances by Carmina Burana. Very
low tech and old hat but fun in a retro kind OPERA been fantastically renovated and is worth a
visit. Note the two wonderful reliefs outside
of way. BUDAPEST OPERETTA Map p222 and the monument to the Pesti srcok, the
SATCHMO Map p222 Budapesti Operettsznhz; %472 2030, 312 4866; heroic kids from Pest who fought and died
%302 2654; V Ndor utca 29; h11.30am-1am; M4 MUSIC CLUB Map p222 www.operettszinhaz.hu; VI Nagymez utca 17; here in 56.
mM2 Kossuth Lajos tr %322 0006; VII Dohny utca 22; h6pm-5am; hticket office 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 1-7pm Sat &
As its subtitle Amerikai Kreol Jazztaurant mM2 Astoria Sun; mM1 Opera MVSZ Map p222
would suggest, this club-restaurant with A particularly smoky place named after the This theatre presents operettas, which are %332 6726; VI Terz krt 30; mM1 Oktogon,
big windows just round the corner from illusory fourth metro line that still refuses always a riot, especially campy ones like the j4 or 6
Szabadsg tr serves up American Creole to get dug or built or started, M4 has both Queen of the Csrds by Imre Klmn, with The Artist shows, appropriately enough,
cuisine (lots of spices, shellfish and black- live music (pop, rock, soul, funk) and DJs. their OTT staging and costumes. artsy and cult films, but not exclusively so.
132 133
 1896, the new theatres location was criti- CENTRAL EUROPE DANCE THEATRE NATIONAL DANCE THEATRE Map p220
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www.lonelyplanet.com
cised for being too far out of the city. Map pp218-19 Nemzeti Tncsznhz; %information 201 4407, tick-
Kzp-Eurpa Tncsznhz; %342 7163, 06 30 ets 375 8649; www.nemzetitancszinhaz.hu; I Sznhz
INTERNATIONAL BUDA STAGE 526 1024; www.cedt.hu; VII Bethlen Gbor tr 3; utca 1-3; hticket office 1-6pm; g16 or Vrbusz
Map p216 trolleybus 74 or 78 The National Dance Theatre on Castle Hill
THIS IMAGE IBS; %391 2525; www.ibs-b.hu; II Trogat t 2-4; This pan-European theatre has some fine hosts at some point every troupe in the city,
NOT AVAILABLE j56, g29 contemporary dance performances; enter including the two ballet companies and the
Honvd Ensemble one of the citys best
IN PICK & MIX This theatre is a more recent arrival and
further afield at the foot of the Buda Hills,
from VII Istvn t.
folk troupes and now experimenting with
with occasional performances often MU SZNHZ Map pp228-9 modern choreography as well.
comedies in English. %466 4627, 209 4014; www.mu.hu in Hungarian;
XI Krsy Jzsef utca 17; j4
JZSEF KATONA THEATRE Map p224 Virtually everyone involved in the Hungar- ACTIVITIES
Katona Jzsef Sznhz; %318 3725; www.szinhaz ian dance scene got their start at this place
.hu/katona; V Petfi Sndor utca 6; hticket office in the business in south Buda, where the HEALTH & FITNESS
RKMOZG FILM MUSEUM Map p222 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 2-7pm Sat & Sun; mM3 cutting edge of modern dance can still be
rkmozg Filmmzeum; %342 2167; VII Erzsbet Ferenciek tere
enjoyed. Thermal Baths
Budapest lies on the geological fault separat-
krt 39; j4 or 6 The Jzsef Katona Theatre is the best ing the Buda Hills from the Great Plain; more
Part of the Hungarian Film Institute, this known in Hungary and is a public theatre TRAF HOUSE OF CONTEMPORARY
than 30,000 cu metres of warm to scalding
cinema (whose mouthful of a name vaguely supported mainly by the city of Budapest. ARTS Map pp228-9 21C to 76C mineral water gush forth
translates as moving picture) shows an Its studio theatre, Kamra, has among the Traf Kortrs Mvszetek Hza; %information daily from some 120 thermal springs. As a
excellent assortment of foreign classic films best troupes in the country. 456 2045, tickets 215 1600; www.trafo.hu; IX Liliom result, the city is a major spa centre and tak-
in their original languages. utca 41; mM3 Ferenc krt ing the waters at one of the many gygyfrd
Entertainment

Entertainment
MERLIN THEATRE Map p224 The best stage on which to see modern (thermal baths) or spa swimming pools is a
SZINDBD Map p222 %318 9338, 266 4632; www.merlinszinhaz.hu; dance is Traf, which presents the cream real Budapest experience. Some baths date
%349 2773; XIII Szent Istvn krt 16; j4 or 6 V Gerlczy utca 4; mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc tr, of the crop, including a good pull of inter- from Turkish times, others are Art Nouveau
This place, named after the seminal (and j47 or 49 national acts. wonders, and still others are spic-and-span
eponymous) 1971 film by director Zoltn This theatre in the heart of Pest stages modern establishments.
Huszrik and based on the novel by Gyula numerous plays in English, often performed At thermal baths, depending on the
FOLK
THEATRE

ACTIVITIES
Krdy (p23), shows good Hungarian and by the theatres own Atlantis Company number of patrons, you will sometimes be
foreign films with subtitles. Very occasion- or the local Madhouse troupe. Its usually The 30 dancers of the Hungarian State Folk En- given a number and will have to wait until it
ally the show is on a video projector, which pretty serious stuff, with little scenery and semble (Magyar llami Npi Egyttes) per- is called or appears on the electronic board.
makes for a less-than-pleasurable night out few props. form at the Buda Concert Hall (Budai Vigad; All baths and pools have cabins or lockers.
at the movies. Map p220; %201 3766; I Corvin tr 8; Find one, get changed in it (or beside it)
NATIONAL THEATRE Map pp228-9 g86, j19) in Buda on Tuesday, Thurs- and call the attendant. He or she will lock
URNIA NATIONAL CINEMA Map p222 Nemzeti Sznhz; %information 476 6800, reser-
day and Sunday from May to mid-October the door with your clothes inside, write the
Urnia Nemzeti Filmsznhz; %486 3413; VIII and on Saturday and/or Sunday only during time on a chalkboard on the door and hand
vations 476 6868; www.nemzetiszinhaz.hu; IX Bajor the rest of the year. In addition the Rajk Folk you a numbered tag to tie on your costume.
Rkczi t 21; g7 or 7/a
Gizi park 1; hticket office 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, Ensemble (Rajk Npi Egyttes) stages folk- Note: In order to prevent theft lest you lose
This all-Art Deco/neo-Moorish extravaganza
is another tarted-up film palace. It has an 2-6pm Sat & Sun; j2 or 2/a dance performances at the Budapest Puppet or misplace the tag, the number is not the
excellent caf on the 1st floor, which is an This rather eclectic venue is the place to go Theatre (p73) on Saturday and the Duna same as the one on the locker, so commit
attraction in itself. if you want to brave a play in Hungarian or Folk Ensemble (Duna Npi Egyttes) dances the locker number to memory.
just check out the bizarre and very contro- at the Duna Palota (p130) just off Roosevelt Though some of the local spas and baths
versial architecture (see p70). tr in Pest on Monday and Wednesday. The look a little rough around the edges, they
1-hour programmes by these groups begin are clean and the water is changed regu-
THEATRE at 8pm, and tickets cost from 4600/4200Ft larly. You might consider taking along a
COMEDY THEATRE Map p222
Vgsznhz; %information 329 2340, tickets 329
DANCE per adult/student. Contact Hungaria Koncert
(%317 2754, 201 5928; www.ticket.info.hu)
pair of plastic sandals or flip-flops, how-
ever. Most bathhouses now require you to
for information and bookings for any of the wear a bathing suit and no longer distribute
3920; XIII Szent Istvn krt 14; hticket office CLASSICAL & MODERN above groups. those strange drawstring loincloths. Most of
10am-6pm Mon-Thu, 10am-5pm Fri; j4 or 6 Budapests two so-so ballet companies the Many people attend tnchz evenings them hire out swimming costumes (around
The attractive little theatre roughly in the Hungarian National and the Hungarian Fes- (p131) to learn the folk dances that go with 800Ft) if you dont have your own.
middle of the Szent Istvn krt section tival Ballet troupes perform at the Opera the music, and you can become part of the Generally, entry to those baths without a
of the Big Ring Road is the venue for com- House, the Erkel Theatre (p133) and the Na- programme as well instead of merely watch- deposit or voucher system (such as the Gel-
edies and musicals. When it was built in tional Dance Theatre (opposite). ing others perform. lrt, Lukcs and Szcheny Baths) allows you
134 135
 to stay for two hours on weekdays and 1 and Saturday and women on Monday, The system inside is similar to that at the after 5pm daily May-Sep, after 5pm Mon-Fri & after
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hours at weekends, though this rule is not Wednesday and Friday. You get back baths (see p135) except that instead of a cabin 2pm Sat & Sun Oct-Apr 2400/2800Ft; h6am-7pm
always enforced. Most of the baths offer a 500/300/100Ft in you leave two/three/four or cubicle, there are sometimes just lockers. daily May-Sep, 6am-7pm Mon-Fri, 6am-5pm Sat &
full range of serious medical treatments plus hours after you enter. Many pools require the use of a bathing cap, Sun Oct-Apr; j18, 19, 47 or 49
services such as massage (1900/2700Ft for so bring your own or wear the plastic one pro- The indoor pools at the Gellrt Baths are
15/30 minutes) and pedicure (2000Ft). Spec- RUDAS Map p224 vided or sold for a nominal fee. Most pools the most beautiful in Budapest. The out-
ify what you want when buying your ticket. Rudas Gygyfrd; %356 1322, 356 1010; I Db- hire bathing suits and towels. door pools (open May to September) have
Please note that some baths become gay rentei tr 9; admission deposit with cabin 2000Ft; Following are the best outdoor and in- a wave machine and landscaped gardens.
venues on male-only days especially the door pools in the city. Some are attached to
Kirly. Not much actually goes on except for hmen 6am-8pm Mon-Thu, 6am-5pm Fri & Sun, thermal baths reviewed previously; others
some intensive cruising, but those not into it mixed 10pm-4am Fri & Sat, 8am-5pm Sun; j18 are part of hotel wellness centres. HLIA Map pp218-19
may feel uncomfortable. or 19, g7 or 86 %889 5800; XIII Krpt utca 62-64; admission
An excellent source of information is the These recently renovated baths are the ALFRD HAJS Map pp218-19 before/after 3pm Mon-Fri 3500/4500Ft, Sat & Sun
Budapest Spas and Hot Springs website: most Turkish of all in Budapest, built in 4900Ft; h7am-10pm; mM3 Dzsa Gyrgy t,
%450 4214, 340 4946; XIII Margit-sziget; adult/
www.spasbudapest.com. 1566, with an octagonal pool, domed trolleybus 79
cupola with coloured glass and massive child 900/550Ft; houtdoor pools 6am-7pm daily
May-Sep, indoor pools 6am-7pm Mon-Fri, 6am-5pm This ultramodern swimming and spa centre
GELLRT Map pp228-9 columns. Its a real zoo on mixed Friday and in the four-star Danubius Hlia Hotel boasts
Saturday nights, when bathing costumes Sat & Sun Oct-Apr; j4 or 6, g26
Gellrt Gygyfrd; %466 6166; XI Kelenhegyi t; three pools, sauna and steam room.
are compulsory. On mens days only you The one indoor and three outdoor pools
admission 1600Ft; h6am-7pm Mon-Fri, 6am-5pm get back 700/400Ft if you leave two/three here form the National Sports Pool, where
Sat & Sun May-Sep, 6am-7pm Mon-Fri, 6am-2pm hours after you enter. Olympic swimming and water-polo teams LUKCS Map pp218-19
Sat & Sun Oct-Apr; j18, 19, 47 or 49 train. %326 1695; II Frankel Le t 25-27; deposit
Soaking in this Art Nouveau palace, open locker/cabin 1500/1700Ft; h6am-7pm daily
SZCHENYI Map pp218-19
to both men and women in separate sec-
Szchenyi Gygyfrd; %363 3210; XIV llat-
BLA KOMJDI Map pp218-19 May-Sep, 6am-7pm Mon-Fri, 6am-5pm Sat & Sun
tions, has been likened to taking a bath in %212 2750; II rpd fejedelem tja 8; adult/child Oct-Apr; j17, g60 or 86
Entertainment

Entertainment
a cathedral. The pools maintain a constant kerti t 11; admission deposit before/after 3pm
900/550Ft; h6am-7pm; j17, g60 or 86 Use of the three swimming pools at the
temperature of 44C, and the water, high in 2300/1400Ft; h6am-7pm; mM1 Szchenyi frd Lukcs Baths is included in the general
This pool is used by very serious swimmers
calcium, magnesium and hydrogen carbon- The Szchenyi baths complex in the north- admission and the hours are the same.
and fitness freaks so dont come here for
ate, is good for pains in the joints, arthritis ern end of City Park is unusual for three
fun and games.
and blood circulation. The entrance fee is reasons: its immense size (a dozen ther-
mal baths and three swimming pools); its PALATINUS Map pp226-7
actually a kind of deposit; you get back
CSILLAGHEGY Map pp226-7 %340 4505; XIII Margit-sziget; adult/child
ACTIVITIES

ACTIVITIES
700/400/200Ft if you leave within two/ bright, clean look; and its water tempera-
three/four hours before 3pm and 500/200Ft tures (up to 38C), which really are what the %250 1533; III Pusztakti t 3; adult/child 1000/ locker 1500/1300Ft, admission with cabin 1900Ft;
if you exit within two/three hours after 3pm. wall plaques say they are. It is open to both 800Ft; h9am-7pm daily mid-MaySep, 7am-7pm h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat & Sun May &
men and women at all times and you get Mon-Fri, 7am-5pm Sat, 7am-6pm Sun Sepmid-May; Jun, 9am-7pm daily Jul & Aug; g26
KIRLY Map pp218-19 back 800/500/200Ft on your deposit if you HV Csillaghegy The largest series of pools in the capital,
leave within two/three/four hours before This popular swimming complex north of the Palatinus Beach complex on Margaret
Kirly Gygyfrd; %202 3688, 201 4392; II F utca
3pm and 600/300Ft if you exit within two/ buda is the oldest open-air bathing area Island has a total of 11 pools (two or three
84; admission 1100Ft; hmen 9am-8pm Tue, Thu & three hours after 3pm. in Budapest. There are three pools in a with thermal water), wave machines, water
Sat, women 7am-6pm Mon, Wed & Fri; g60 or 86 90-hectare terraced park; in winter they are slides etc.
The four pools here, with water tempera-
THERMAL BATH Map pp226-7 covered by a heated canvas tent.
tures of between 26C and 40C, are genu-
ine Turkish baths erected in 1570 and have %889 4737; XIII Margit-sziget; admission weekday/ RMAIFRD Map pp226-7
a wonderful skylit central dome. weekend 5200/6300Ft; h6.30am-9.30pm; g26 DAGLY Map pp226-7 %388 9740; III Rozgonyi Piroska utca 2; adult/child
This bath is a modern-style thermal spa %452 4500; XIII Npfrd utca 36; adult deposit locker 1200/1000Ft, admission with cabin 1600Ft;
in the Danubius Grand Hotel Margitsziget with/without cabin 1800/1500Ft, child deposit
LUKCS Map pp218-19 h9am-7pm May-Aug; HV Rmaifrd, g34
(p158) on leafy Margaret Island. The baths 1300Ft; houtdoor pools 6am-7pm daily May-Sep, The outdoor cold-water thermal pools here
Lukcs Gygyfrd; %326 1695; II Frankel Le t are open to men and women in separate
25-27; admission deposit locker/cabin 1500/1700Ft; indoor pools 6am-7pm Mon-Fri, 6am-5pm Sat & Sun are in a leafy area of buda just north of
sections. Aquincum.
h6am-7pm daily May-Sep, 6am-7pm Mon-Fri, Oct-Apr; mM3 rpd hd, j1
This huge complex has a total of 10 pools,
6am-5pm Sat & Sun Oct-Apr; j17, g60 or 86
Housed in a sprawling, 19th-century Swimming with plenty of grass and shade. If you leave RUDAS Map p224
the complex two/three hours after entering %356 1322, 356 1010; I Dbrentei tr 9; admission
complex, the Lukcs Baths are popular Hungarians are keen swimmers and Buda-
you get 500/300Ft back. with locker/cabin 1000/1200Ft; h6am-6pm Mon-
with older, very keen spa aficionados pest boasts dozens of uszoda (pools), both
and include everything from thermal and indoor and outdoor. Theyre always excellent Fri, 6am-1pm Sat & Sun; j18 or 19, g7 or 86
mud baths (temperatures 22C to 40C) places to get in a few laps (if indoor), cool off GELLRT Map pp228-9 The indoor pools at the Rudas Baths close
to a swimming pool. The thermal baths on a hot summers day (if outdoor) or watch %466 6166; XI Kelenhegyi t; deposit to swimming to the river were built by the Turks in 1566
are open to men on Tuesday, Thursday all the posers strut their stuff (both). pool & thermal baths with locker/cabin 2500/3000Ft, and retain a strong Turkish atmosphere.
136 137
 SZCHENYI Map pp218-19 Route Map, with 20 recommended tours that PLVLGY CAVE Map pp226-7 GRZENL ROLLER-SKATING PARK
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%363 3210; XIV llatkerti t 11; deposit before/ range in length from 24km to 177km. Plvlgyi-barlang; %325 9505; II Szpvlgyi t Map pp226-7
after 3pm 2300/1400Ft; h6am-7pm; mM1 Bicycles can be transported on the HV, 162; adult/child 750/450Ft; hhourly tours 10am- Grzenl Grkocsolya Park; %250 4800; III rpd
Szchenyi frd all Mahart boats and the Cog and Chil- 4pm Tue-Sun; g65 from Kolosy tr in buda fejedelem tja 125; admission weekdays/weekends
Use of the three enormous thermal swim-
drens Railways but not on the metro, buses The second-largest cavern in Hungary, Paul
or trams. 400/600Ft; h9am-7.30pm; HV Tmr utca
ming pools at the Szchenyi Baths is in- Valley Cave is noted for both its stalactites This outdoor roller-skating rink and karting
cluded in the general admission fee.
There are a couple of places to rent bi- and its bats. The 500m route involves climb-
cycles on Margaret Island (p63) but these track across from the Danube in buda
ing some 400 steps and a ladder so it may rents skates (500Ft) as well as protective
are just for twirling round the island. Bikes not be suitable for children or the elderly. equipment such as gloves, shin and elbow
Gyms & Fitness Clubs to hire for touring further afield include
guards (100Ft per set).
A daily ticket into the thermal bath and pools the long-established and very reliable Yel-
low Zebra Bikes (Map p224; %266 8777, 06 SZEMLHEGY CAVE Map pp226-7
(p136) at the Danubius Grand Hotel Mar-
gitsziget includes use of the fitness room 30 211 8861; www.yellowzebrabikes.com; Szemlhegyi-barlang; %325 6001; II Pusztaszeri CITY PARK ICE-SKATING RINK
and machines. Independent gyms and fit- V St utca 2; 1hr/half-day/full day hire t 35; adult/child 650/400Ft; h10am-4pm Wed- Map pp218-19
ness clubs worth a bend and a stretch in- 500/2000/3000Ft; mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc Mon; g29 from III Kolosy tr Vrosligeti Mjgplya; %364 0013; XIV Olof Palme
clude Astoria Fitness Centre (Map p222; %343 tr; h10am-6pm Nov-Mar, 9am-8pm Apr- This is Budapests most beautiful cave, with stny 5; admission weekdays/weekends 360/720Ft;
1140; V Dohny utca 32; adult/student day Oct), with an Opera House branch (Map p222; stalactites, stalagmites and weird grape-like
h9am-1pm & 4-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm & 4-8pm
ticket 1100/900Ft; h6.30am-10pm Mon- %269 3843; VI Lzr utca 16; h10am- formations. Its about 1km southeast of
5pm Nov-Mar, 9.30am-7.30pm Apr-Oct; Plvlgy Cave.
Sat & Sun
Fri, 9.30am-6pm Sat; mM2 Astoria), with In winter this huge outdoor skating rink
a nearby branch (Map p224; %317 0452; V m M1 Opera); Budapest Bike (Map p222;
operates on the western edge of the lake in
Kroly krt 4; h6.30am-11pm Mon-Fri, %06 30 944 5533; www.budapestbike.hu;
10am-6pm Sat & Sun; mM2 Astoria); Arnold VII Wesselnyi utca 18; 2hr/half-day/full Horse Riding City Park. If you want to avoid the seasonal
crowds, visit on weekday mornings.
Gym (Map p80; %250 4259; III Szpvlgyi t day hire 600/1500/3000Ft; h9am-mid- The nonprofit Hungarian Equestrian Tourism As-
15; two visits 2000Ft; h7am-11pm Mon- night; j4 or 6, trolleybus 74), with a sociation (MLTSZ; Map p224; %456 0444;
Chain Bridge branch (Map p224; %06 30 944 www.equi.hu; IX Rday utca 8) can pro-
Tennis & Squash
Entertainment

Entertainment
Fri, 9am-10pm Sat & Sun; HV Szpvlgyi
t, g86); and A&TSA Fitness Club (Map p220; 5533; V Lnchd; h9am-midnight May- vide you with a list of recommended riding
There are some three dozen tennis clubs in
%488 7220; I Plya utca 9; to 4pm/full day Sep; j2 or 2a) open only in summer; and schools that are within striking distance of
Budapest usually charging between 2700Ft
1400/1900Ft; h7am-11pm Mon-Fri, 9am- Bike Base (Map p222; %269 5983, 06 70 625 Budapest. Pegazus Tours (Map p224; %317
and 4500Ft per hour for use of their courts
9pm Sat & Sun; g105). 8501; www.bikebase.hu; VI Podmaniczky 1644; www.pegazus.hu; V Ferenciek tere 5)
(clay and/or green set). Among the best are
utca 19; 1-/2-/3-day hire 8/12/16; h9am- organises riding programmes as does the
the Vrosmajor Tennis Academy (Map p216; %202
7pm; mM3 Nyugati plyaudvar). highly respected Favorit Lovarda (%257 1065,
5337; XII Vrosmajor utca 63-69; h7am-
ACTIVITIES

ACTIVITIES
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES 06 30 966 9992; XVI Mkus utca 23; HV
10pm Mon-Fri, 7am-7pm Sat & Sun; g28);
Szabadsgtelep) in the northeastern Csmr
Szpvlgyi Tennis Centre (Szpvlgyi Teniszcen-
Cycling Boating district.
trum; Map pp2267; %388 1591; III Virg
Parts of Budapest, including City and Np- The best place for canoeing and kayaking in
Benedek utca 39-41; h7am-10pm; g65
liget Parks, Margaret Island and the Buda Budapest is on the Danube at Romai-part; PETNEHZY LOVASCENTRUM from Kolosy tr in buda); and Pasart Sport
Hills, are excellent places for cycling. At take the HV suburban line to Rmaifrd %397 5048, 06 20 588 3571; petnehazy@net.hu; Centre (Pasarti Sportcentrum; Map p216;
present dedicated bike lanes in the city total and walk east towards the river. Two reliable II Feketefej utca 2-4; h9am-4pm Sat & Sun; g63 %212 52 46; II Pasarti t 11-13; h7am-
about 140km, including the path along An- places to rent kayaks and/or canoes are buda
from Hvsvlgyi t 10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9pm Sat & Sun; g5).
drssy t, but that is expected to double in Sport Club (SE; Map pp2267; %240 3353;
One of the closest places to the city is this For squash, book a court at any of the
the next decade. III Rozgonyi Piroska utca 28; canoes per day
long-established riding centre at Adyliget following: A&TSA Fitness Club (opposite)
For information and advice on cycling, 1400Ft; h8am-6pm) and the KSH boat club
near Hvsvlgy, west of Budapest. By the for 2400Ft to 4000Ft per hour; Arnold Gym
contact the very helpful Hungarian Cyclists Club (Map pp2267; %368 8967; III Kirlyok
time you read this it may have resumed (opposite) for 1950Ft to 2950Ft; or Top Squash
(MK; %206 6223, 06 30 922 9052; www tja 31; 1-/2-person kayak per day 1300/
lessons, paddock practice and trail riding, (Map pp21819; %345 8193; II Lvhz
.kerosz.hu) or the Hungarian Bicycle Touring As- 1500Ft, 3-/4-person canoe per day 1800/
which were put on hold while Hungary utca 2-6; court rental 2300-4500Ft; h7am-
sociation (MKTSZ; Map p222; %311 2467; 1900Ft; h8am-6pm mid-Aprmid-Oct).
introduced a new system of rating riding 11pm Mon-Fri, 8am-9pm Sat & Sun; mM2
mktsz@dpg.hu; VI Bajcsy-Zsilinszky t 31,
schools. In the meantime there are pony Moszkva tr, j4 or 6) on the 4th floor of
2nd fl; mM3 Arany Jnos utca). See p52
the Mammut I shopping mall.
for information about joining a city tour Caving rides (1500Ft per quarter-hour) for the kid-
dies and carriage rides (15,000Ft per half-
by bike. Budapest has several caves, two of which
Frigoria publishes a number of helpful can be visited on walk-through guided tours hour for 8 people).
guides and maps, including one called Kerk- in Hungarian. Most of the hostels offer
WATCHING SPORT
Hungarians love attending sporting matches
parral Budapest krnykn (By Bike around 4-hour caving excursions for 2500Ft to
Budapest; 2200Ft) that takes in the surround- Mtyshegy Cave (Mtyshegyi-barlang; Map
Skating as well as watching them on TV. The most
Bringhint (p63) on Margaret Island rents popular spectator sports are football and
ing areas and describes 30 different routes. pp2267), a cave opposite the Plvlgy,
out inline skates for 880/1480Ft per half/full water polo, though horse racing and motor
The tourist offices distribute the free, but less usually commencing at 4pm on Monday,
hour. racing also have their fans.
ambitious, Budapest & Surroundings Bicycle Wednesday and Friday.
138 139
 Lonely Planet Publications
For its size and population, Hungary has Horse Racing
www.lonelyplanet.com

done extremely well in the Olympics. It fin- The descendants of the nomadic Magyars
ished 13th overall at both the 2004 Olympic are keen on horse racing. Kincsem Park (Map
Games in Athens and the ones in Sydney p216; %433 0522; www.kincsempark.com;
in 2000, with exactly the same number of X Albertirsai t 2; mM2 Pillang utca),
medals: 17 (eight gold, six silver and three which was recently renovated, is the place
bronze). At the 1996 games in Atlanta, it to go for both get (trotting) and galopp
placed 12th with 21 medals and at Barce- (flat racing). Schedules can change but in
lona in 1992 the ranking was eighth with general three trotting meetings of 10 to 11
30 medals. races take place each week, usually at 3pm
on Saturday and Sunday and at 4pm or 5pm
Football on Wednesday year-round. Flat racing usu-
Hungarys descent from being on top of ally takes place from 2pm on Thursday and
the heap of European football to a bka Sunday between May and early November.
segge alatt literally, under the arse of the
frog as the Hungarians describe something
really far down remains one of lifes great
Motor Racing
Reintroduced in 1986 following a hiatus
mysteries. Hungarys defeat of the England of half a century, the Formula 1 Hungarian Grand
team both at Wembley (63) in 1953 and Prix (%28-444 444; www.hungaroring.hu)
at home (71) the following year, are still is part of the World Championship Series
talked about as if the winning goals were that takes place at the Hungaroring at Mog-
scored yesterday. yord, 24km northeast of Budapest, in Au-
There are four premier league football gust. Practice is on the Friday, the qualifying
teams in Budapest out of a total 12 play- warm-up on Saturday and the race begins
Entertainment

ing nationwide, including Kispest-Honvd, after morning practice at 2pm on Sunday.

which plays at the citys Jzsef Bozsik Stadium The only seats with views of the starting grid
(%282 9791, 282 9789; XIX j temet t are Super Gold ones and cost 400 for the
1-3; g36), southeast of the centre, accom- weekend; cheaper are Gold (300 to 320),
modating 15,000 spectators; MTK at Hungria which are near the pit lane, and Silver (225
Stadium (Map pp21819; %219 0300; VIII to 250) tickets. Standing room costs 110
ACTIVITIES

Salgtarjni utca 12-14; j1 or 1/a), to the for the weekend, 100 for Sunday.
east of Kerepes Cemetery, for 8000 people;
and UTE at UTE Stadium (%369 7333; IV
Megyeri t 13; g47 or 96), in jpest, with Water Polo
room for 15,000 fans. The Hungarian Water Polo Association (MVLSZ;
But no club dominates Hungarian foot- %412 0041; www.waterpolo.hu in Hungar-
ball like Ferencvros (FTC), which is the ian) is based at the Alfrd Hajs National
countrys loudest and brashest team, and Sports Pool (p137) on Margaret Island and
its only hope. You either love the Fradi boys matches take place here and at two other
in their green and white or you hate them. pools the Bla Komjdi (p137) in Buda
You can watch them play at the FTC Stadium and the BVSC (Map pp21819; %251 3888;
(Map pp2289; %215 1013; IX Knyves XIV Sznyi t 2; trolleybus 74 or 74/a) in
Klmn krt 26; mM3 Npliget), near Pest from September to May. If you want
Npliget Park, with space for 18,000. The to see a match or watch the lads in training
daily Nemzeti Sport (National Sport; 99Ft), in summer, call the MVLSZ for times and
available from newsstands everywhere, has dates or get someone to check schedules for
the game schedules. you in Nemzeti Sport newspaper.

Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
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140 141
 Lonely Planet Publications

Shopping

Buda 142
Castle Hill 142
Vzivros 143
Outer Buda Districts 143
Pest 143
Inner Town 143
Northern Inner Town 146
Szent Istvn Krt & Terzvros 147
Erzsbetvros 148
Jzsefvros & Ferencvros 149
Andrssy t 150
City Park 150
Outer Pest Districts 150
140
 Shopping
HOUSE OF HUNGARIAN WINES

www.lonelyplanet.com
Map p220 Food & Drink TAXES & REFUNDS
Magyar Borok Hza; %212 1030, 212 1031; www If youre not a resident of the EU, you can get a FA
.winehouse.hu; I Szenthromsg tr 6; hnoon- (VAT or sales tax) refund, provided you have spent
8pm; g16 or Vrbusz more than 50,000Ft in any one shop and take the
Shops in Budapest are well stocked and the quality of the products is generally high. Trad- This popular tourist attraction (p54) in the goods out of the country (and the EU) within 90 days.
itional markets stand side by side with mammoth shopping malls and old-style umbrella Castle District also has a huge selection of For more information see p193.
or button makers can be found next to cutting-edge fashion boutiques. wines to buy.
Books and folk-music tapes and CDs are affordable, and theres an excellent selection,
especially of popoular classical music. Traditional items include folk embroidery and cer- HUNGARICUM Map p220 Folk Art & Souvenirs SPORTHORGSZ
amics, pottery, wall hangings, painted wooden toys and boxes, dolls, all types of basketry, %487 7306; I Fortuna utca 1; h9am-9pm; g16 Map pp218-19 Sporting Goods
and porcelain (especially from Herend and Zsolnay). Feather or goose-down pillows and or Vrbusz Sport Angler; %06 70 383 8825; II Bem Jzsef
duvets (comforters) are of exceptionally high quality and are second only to the Siberian This shop, conveniently located in the utca 8; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat; g86,
variety. Castle District, sells quality Hungarian
Foodstuffs that are expensive or difficult to buy elsewhere goose liver (both fresh and j4 or 6
handicrafts as well as foodstuffs (eg potted This is the place to come for rods, reels,
potted), saffron, dried forest mushrooms, jam (especially the apricot variety), prepared goose liver and honey), wines and brandies.
meats like Pick salami, the many types of paprika make nice gifts (as long as youre allowed flies and anything else it takes to get you
to take them home). Some of Hungarys boutique wines (p30) make good and relatively out fishing.
inexpensive gifts. A bottle of six-puttonyos Tokaji Asz dessert wine always goes down a
treat. Fruit-flavoured plinka (brandies) are a stronger option.
VZIVROS TIMPANON Map pp226-7 Antiques
BUDAPEST WINE SOCIETY
%250 5547; III Nagyszombat utca 3; h10am-
Map pp218-19 Food & Drink 6pm Mon-Fri; HV Tmr utca, g60
Shopping Streets & Areas %212 2569; www.bortarsasag.hu; I Batthyny This seldom noticed shop in buda sells
Some streets or areas in Budapest specialise in certain goods or products. For example, utca 59; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat; antique Hungarian folk art of every shape
antique shops line V Falk Miksa utca (Map p222) in Pest and, to a lesser extent, II Frankel mM2 Moszkva tr and size: mangle boards, woodcarvings,
Le t (Map pp21819) in Buda. V Mzeum krt (Map p224) in Pest has a string of The society has several retail outlets, includ- chests etc. But dont expect any bargains.
antiquarian and secondhand bookshops. Central (and very high-rent) V Vci utca (Map ing one on trendy IX Rday utca (Map p224; An early 19th-century tulipn lda (trous-
p224) is chock-a-block with both top-end boutiques and tourist schlock. %219 5647; IX Rday utca 7; hnoon-8pm seau chest with tulips painted on it) from

Shopping
In the mid-1990s Budapest began to go mall crazy, and at last count the city had at least a Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat; mM2 Moszkva the Flvidk area of Transylvania will cost
dozen, both in the centre of town and on the fringes. However, mall may not properly de- tr), where serious oenophiles should head. you around 130,000Ft. Theres a Buda
scribe what the Hungarians call bevsrl s szorakoztat kzpont (shopping and amusement No-one but no-one knows Hungarian wines branch called Almrium (Map p220; %250
centres); here youll find everything from designer salons, more traditional shops and dry like these guys do. There are free tastings 5547; I Attila utca 65; g5).
cleaners to food courts, casinos, cinemas and live bands. Its a place to spend the entire day, on Saturday afternoon.

VZIVROS
much as you would just about anywhere in the globalised world of the third millennium.
Some people consider a visit to one of Budapests flea markets the famous Ecseri Piac
HEREND VILLAGE POTTERY OUTER BUDA DISTRICTS
(p150) or the smaller one in City Park (p150) a highlight, not just as a place to indulge MOM PARK Map pp218-19 Shopping Mall
their consumer vices but as the consummate Budapest experience. If you dont have time Map pp218-19 Porcelain & Glassware
to get to either or its the wrong day of the week, check any of the BV stores (p147). %356 7899; II Bem rakpart 37; h9am-5pm Mon- %487 5501; XII Alkots t 53; h8am-11pm;
Fri, 9am-noon Sat; mM2 Batthyny tr j61
An alternative to what some might call South Budas biggest mall has both office
Opening Hours prissy and overwrought Herend porcelain and retail space, including a nine-screen
cinema, recreation centre and in-house
Very generally speaking, retail shops and department stores are open 10am to 6pm Monday is the hard-wearing Herend pottery and
to Friday and 10am to 1pm on Saturday. In summer, some private retail shops close early on dishes decorated with bold fruit patterns brewery pub.
Friday and at least part of August. sold here. You can also enter from II F
utca 61.
PEST
BUDA Herend, Hungarys answer to Wedgwood.
Among the most popular motifs produced MAMMUT Map pp218-19 Shopping Mall
INNER TOWN
%345 8020; II Lvhz utca; h8am-11pm;
CASTLE HILL by the company is the Victoria pattern of
butterflies and wildflowers designed for the mM2 Moszkva tr ARTEN STDI Map p224 Fine Art
HEREND Map p220 Porcelain & Glassware eponymous British queen during the mid- The two Mammoths (Mammut I and %266 3127; V Vci utca 25; h10am-6.30pm
%225 1050; www.herend.com; I Szenthromsg 19th century. Theres also a more central Mammut II) side by side in Buda are Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat; mM3 Ferenciek tere
utca 5; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat & Sun; Belvros branch (Map p224; %317 2622; V true shopping and amusement centres, This fine-art gallery is somewhat commer-
Jzsef ndor tr 11; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, with almost as many fitness centres, bil- cial with lots of bric-a-brac but also shows
g16 or Vrbusz liard parlours, dance clubs and cafs as works by such modern Hungarian artists as
For both contemporary and traditional fine 9am-1pm Sat; mM1 Vrsmarty tr) of this
shops. They attract the Buda middle class pd Mller and Endre Szsz. Enter from
porcelain, there is no other place to go but Hungarian icon.
in droves. Pesti Barnabs utca.
142 143
 HEPHAISTOS Map p224 NRAY TAMS Map p224 SELENE LOVAS BOLT
www.lonelyplanet.com

www.lonelyplanet.com
Household Goods Fashion & Clothing
TOP FIVE SHOPS FOR FOLK ART %266 1550; V Molnr utca 27; h11am-6pm %266 2473; V Krolyi Mihly utca 12; hnoon- Map p224 Sporting Goods

Timpanon (p143) Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat; j47 or 49 8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat; mM3 Ferenciek tere %266 0143; V Irnyi utca 7; h10am-6pm Mon-

Holl Atelier (right) Named after the Greek god of smiths and The principal outlet for Hungarys most Fri, 9am-1pm Sat; mM3 Ferenciek tere

Intuita (right) metalworkers, this shop has a zany collec- celebrated and controversial designer, the Selene sells everything and anything you

Hungaricum (p143) tion of furniture, fittings and household Paris-trained Tams Nray, stocks elegant might need to kit both you and a horse out

Folkart Centrum (below) goods, including many made of wrought ready-to-wear fashion and accessories for for riding.
iron, a medium in which the Hungarians women and also accepts tailoring orders.
have traditionally excelled. SZMOS MARCIPN Map p224 Food & Drink
BABAKLINIKA Map p224 Toys PORCELNHZ Map p224 Porcelain & Glassware %317 3643; V Prizsi utca 3; h10am-7pm;
%267 2445; V Mzeum krt 5; h10am-5pm
HOLL ATELIER Map p224 Folk Art & Souvenirs %266 3165; V Vci utca 45; h10am-6pm Mon- mM3 Ferenciek tere
Mon-Fri, 9.30am-12.30pm Sat; mM2-Astoria %317 8103; V Vitkovics Mihly utca 12; h10am- Fri, 10am-3pm Sat; mM3 Ferenciek tere Many Kinds of Marzipan sells just that
Just down the street from the Astoria 6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-noon Sat; mM1/2/3 Dek This is the shop to source colourful pottery in every shape and size imaginable. Its ice
metro station, the Doll Clinic specialises in Ferenc tr from Hdmezvsrhely in southeastern cream (100Ft per scoop) is another major
selling (and repairing) handmade dolls and Off the northern end of Vci utca, this place Hungary, a centre of that craft for hundreds draw here.
other toys. has attractive folk art with a modern look of years.
and remains a personal favourite for buy- TANG CLASSIC Map p224 Fashion & Clothing
BALOGH KESTY ing gifts. RED BUS SECONDHAND BOOKSTORE
%267 6647; www.tangoclassic.hu; V Vci utca 8;
Map p224 Map p224 Antiquarian & Secondhand Books
Fashion & Clothing mM1 Vrsmarty tr
%266 1942; V Haris kz 2; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri,
INTUITA Map p224 Folk Art & Souvenirs %337 7453; V Semmelweis utca 14; www.redbus- Tang stocks exclusive womens suits, blaz-
10.30am-1pm Sat; mM3 Ferenciek tere %266 5864; V Vci utca 67; h11am-6pm Mon- budapest.hu; h11am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm ers, jackets, evening attire and accessories
If he can have a pair of bespoke shoes Fri, 10am-2pm Sat; g15 Sat; mM2 Astoria with a Hungarian twist. Theres also a district
(p146), why cant she have a pair of custom- Youre not likely to find painted eggs and Below the popular hostel of that name is V branch (Map p224; %318 4394; V Apczai
made gloves (and remember, ladies the plinka (brandy) at this gift shop, but it the top shop in town for used (as opposed Csere Jnos utca 3; mM1 Vrsmarty tr)
longer, the sexier)? Youll get them here at does stock handmade glass, ceramics, to antiquarian) English-language books. nearby.
Balogh Gloves and theres any number of bound books etc that are all modern ver-
materials to choose from. sions of traditional Hungarian folk craft. RZSAVLGYI S TRSA Map p224 Music THOMAS SABO Map p224 Jewellery
Shopping

Shopping
%318 3312; V Szervita tr 5; h9.30am-7pm %328 0557; www.thomassabo.com; V Kristf tr
BELVROSI AUKCISHZ KZPONTI ANTIKVRIUM Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, 10am-7pm Wed, 10am-5pm 6; h10am-7pm; mM1 Vrsmarty tr
Map p224 Antiques & Auction House Map p224 Antiquarian & Secondhand Books Sat; mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc tr This Germany-based jewellery design com-
%267 3539; V Vci utca 36; h10am-6pm Mon- %317 3514; V Mzeum krt 13-15; h10am- This music shop is a good choice for CDs pany with Hungarian roots specialises in
Fri, 10am-4pm Sat; mM3 Ferenciek tere 6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat; mM2 Astoria and tapes of traditional folk music. exquisite modern pieces in sterling silver.
INNER TOWN

INNER TOWN
The Inner Town Auction House usually For antique and secondhand books in
has themed auctions (jewellery, artwork Hungarian, German and English, try the
and graphics, furniture and carpets etc) at Central Antiquarian Bookshop, which was
5pm on Monday from September to June established in 1885 and is the largest of its
but is open for viewing throughout the kind in Budapest.
week.
MAGMA Map p224 Household Goods
FOLKART CENTRUM %235 0277; V Petfi Sndor utca 11; h10am-
Map p224 Folk Art & Souvenirs 5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat; mM3 Ferenciek tere
THIS IMAGE
%318 5840; V Vci utca 58; h10am-7pm; g15, In the centre of the Belvros, this show-
room focuses on Hungarian design and
j47 or 49
Also called Npmvszet, the Folkart is a
designers with everything from glassware NOT AVAILABLE
large shop where everything Magyar-made
and porcelain to textiles and furniture.
IN PICK & MIX
is available folk costumes, dolls, painted
eggs, embroidered tablecloths and prices MONARCHIA Map p224 Fashion & Clothing
are clearly labelled. The staff are helpful %318 3146; V Szabadsajt t 6; mM3 Ferenciek
and will advise. A similar place but even tere
bigger is the Folkart Kzmvszhz (Folkart This fashion house stocks funky one-off and
Artisan House; Map p224; %318 5143; made-to-measure items that have a dis-
V Rgi posta utca 12; h10am-7pm Mon- tinctly Magyar stamp. There are branches
Fri, 10am-4pm Sat; mM3 Ferenciek tere) in the West End City Centre (%238 7172; p148)
further north on the same street. and Duna Plaza (%239 4248; p150) malls.
144 145
 VASS Map p224 CENTRAL EUROPEAN UNIVERSITY of Hungarian wines. Ask the staff to recom-
www.lonelyplanet.com

www.lonelyplanet.com
Fashion & Clothing
%318 2375; www.vass-shoes.hu; V Haris kz 2; BOOKSHOP Map p224 Books mend a bottle. TOP FIVE BOOKSHOPS
h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat; mM3 %327 3096; V Ndor utca 9; h10am-6pm Mon- 
Bestsellers (opposite)
Ferenciek tere Fri; g15 NDORTEX Map p224 Household Goods 
Sznyi Antikvriuma (p148)
A traditional shoemaker that stocks both Under the same management as Pen- %317 0030; V Jzsef ndor tr 12; h10am-6pm 
Libri Knyvpalota (p149)
ready-to-wear and cobbles to order, Vass dragon (opposite), the two-floor bookshop Mon-Fri; mM1 Vrsmarty tr 
Kzponti Antikvrium (p144)
has a reputation that goes back to 1896 at the Central European University has a Goose-feather or down products such as 
rk Boltja (Writers Bookshop; p150)
and some people travel to Hungary just to good selection of academic and business pillows (from 12,000Ft) or duvets (comfort-
have their footwear made here. titles with a regional focus as well as some ers; from 22,000Ft) are of excellent quality
secondhand stock. in Hungary and a highly recommended Opera) for old jewellery, watches and silver;
ZSOLNAY Map p224 Porcelain & Glassware purchase. Ndortex, small but reliable, the V Bcsi utca branch (Map p224; %318 4403;
%266 6305; V Vci utca 19-21; h10am-7pm; has some of the best prices; a pure down V Bcsi utca 1-3; mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc tr)
KDEX Map p222 Books summer (ie 500g per sq metre) measuring
mM3 Ferenciek tere for knick-knacks, porcelain and glassware;
%428 1010; V Honvd utca 5; h9am-6pm Mon- 200cm x 220cm costs 38,000Ft. and the II Margit krt branch (Map pp21819;
For both contemporary and traditional fine
Fri; mM2 Kossuth Lajos tr %315 0417; II Margit krt 4; j4 or 6) for
eosin porcelain from Pcs, try this place.
At Kdex youll find Hungarian books on NYUGAT ANTIKVRIUM furniture, lamps and fine porcelain.
the ground floor and foreign books on the
Map p222 Antiquarian & Secondhand Books
NORTHERN INNER TOWN 1st floor, along with a decent selection of
classical and jazz CDs. %311 9023; V Bajcsy-Zsilinszky t 34; h10am- DRIUS Map p222 Antiques
BESTSELLERS Map p224 Books 5.30pm Mon-Fri; mM3 Arany Jnos utca %311 2603; V Falk Miksa utca 24-26; j4 or 6
%312 1295; V Oktber 6 utca 11; h9am- The West Antiquarian Bookshop stocks This shop, which handles furniture, paint-
LA BOUTIQUE DES VINS both foreign- and Hungarian-language ings, glass and porcelain, is among the best
6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun;
Map p224 Food & Drink titles. on V Falk Miksa utca.
mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc tr
Still top of the pops for English-language %317 5919; www.malatinszky.hu; V Jzsef Attila
utca 12; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat; HAAS & CZJZEK
bookshops in Budapest is the recently
expanded Bestsellers, which has novels, mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc tr SZENT ISTVN KRT & Map p222 Porcelain & Glassware
travel guides and lots of Hungarica as
well as a large selection of magazines and
Owned and operated by the former som-
melier at the exclusive Gundel restaurant, TERZVROS %311 4094; www.porcelan.hu; VI Bajcsy-Zsilinszky
t 23; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat; mM3
AJKA KRISTLY
Shopping

Shopping
newspapers. The Wine Shop has an excellent selection Arany Jnos utca
Map p222 Porcelain & Glassware In the vicinity of the Basilica of St Stephen,
%332 4541; VI Terz krt 50; mM3 Nyugati this chinaware and crystal shop sells Zsol-
PERMISSION GRANTED plyaudvar nay as well as more affordable Hungarian-
made Hollhza and Alfldi porcelain.
Budapests antique shops and auction houses are magnets for bargain hunters. Those with a trained eye may find the Established in 1878, Ajka has Hungarian-
NORTHERN INNER TOWN

SZENT ISTVN KRT & TERZVROS

treasures of tomorrow at some of the modern galleries today, but purchases still require you to reach deep into the made lead-crystal pieces and stemware.
Most of it is very old fashioned but there JTKSZEREK ANNO Map p222 Toys
pocket at least for the credit card.
Any item over 50 years old requires a permit from the Ministry of Culture for export; this involves a visit to a are some more-contemporary pieces. %302 6234; VI Terz krt 54; h10am-6pm
museum expert (see the following), photos of the piece and a National Bank form with proof-of-purchase receipts. Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat; mM3 Nyugati plyaudvar
Companies that will take care of all this for you and ship the piece(s) include First European Shipping (%06 20 ANNA ANTIKVITS Map p222 Antiques The wonderful little Anno Playthings shop
933 5240, 06 20 264 0424; www.firsteuropeanshipping.com) and Move One (%213 0018; www.moveone.info). %302 5461; V Falk Miksa utca 18-20; j4 or 6 near Nyugati train station sells finely made
Be aware that most art shippers wont take a job for under US$450, so if the piece is small enough and not really valu- Anna is the place to go if youre in the reproductions of antique wind-up and
able, consider taking it in your suitcase. First European Shipping quotes a price of about US$850 for obtaining export market for embroidered antique tablecloths other old-fashioned toys.
customs clearance, crating and air-freighting a small chest of drawers to JFK International Airport in New York. and bed linen. Theyre stacked up all over
If youre in a DIY mood, the following are the museums and other offices you must contact for valuations and the shop. KIESELBACH GALRIA Map p222 Fine Art
permits in order for your purchase to be allowed out of the country. %269 3148; www.kieselbach.hu; V Szent Istvn
Applied Arts Museum (Map pp21819; %217 5222; IX lli t 33-37) For antique furniture, porcelain, glass and BV Map p222 Antiques krt 5; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat; j4 or 6
carpets. Bizomnyi Kereskedhz s Zloghitel; %325 This is without a doubt the best source in
2600, 473 0666; www.bav.hu; XIII Szent Istvn krt the city for Hungarian painting and there
Ethnography Museum (Map p222; %473 2400; V Kossuth Lajos tr 12) For folk art and handicraft items.
are frequent auctions.
Hungarian National Gallery (Map p220; %201 9082; Wings B & D, Royal Palace, I Szent Gyrgy tr) For pictorial 3; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat; j4 or 6
This chain of pawn and secondhand shops,
works by Hungarian artists.
with a number of branches around town, PENDRAGON Map pp218-19 Books
Museum of Fine Arts office (Map pp21819; %302 1785; VI Szondi utca 77) For foreign paintings, sculptures and is always a fun place to comb for trinkets %340 4426; XIII Pozsonyi t 21-23; h10am-6pm
other works of art. and treasures; check out this branch for Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat; j4 or 6, trolleybus 76
National Szchenyi Library (Map p220; %224 3700; Wing F, Royal Palace, I Szent Gyrgy tr) For books, printed chinaware, textiles and artwork. Other or 79
matter, written music, hand-written items dating from before 1957. stores include the VI Andrssy t branch (Map While this English bookshop, which takes
p222; %342 9143; VI Andrssy t 43; mM1 its name from the legend of King Arthur,
146 147
 has an excellent selection of English books WEST END CITY CENTRE CONCERTO HANGLEMEZBOLT
www.lonelyplanet.com

www.lonelyplanet.com
and guides (including Lonely Planet titles), Map p222 Shopping Mall Map p224 Music CLOTHING SIZES
most Anglophones will have a hard time Measurements approximate only, try before you buy
%238 7777; VI Vci t 1; h8am-11pm; mM3 %268 9631; VII Dob utca 33; hnoon-7pm Mon-
making themselves understood here.
Nyugati plyaudvar Fri, noon-4pm Sun; mM2 Astoria Womens Clothing
In central Pest, this Goliath of a shopping For classical CDs, tapes and vinyl, try the Aus/UK 8 10 12 14 16 18
PINTR ANTIK Map p222 Antiques complex has everything you could possibly wonderful Concerto Record Shop, which is Europe 36 38 40 42 44 46
%311 3030; www.pinterantik.hu; V Falk Miksa want or need, with 400 shops, telecom always full of hard-to-find treasures. Japan 5 7 9 11 13 15
utca 10; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat; outlets, large indoor fountains, the hair- USA 6 8 10 12 14 16
j4 or 6 raising Budapest Eye (p73) and the 230- LEKVRIUM Map p222 Food & Drink Womens Shoes
With a positively enormous antique show- room Hilton West End (p160). %321 6543; VII Dohny utca 39; h10am-6pm Aus/USA 5 6 7 8 9 10
room measuring 1800 sq metres in a series Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat; mM2 Blaha Lujza tr Europe 35 36 37 38 39 40
of cellars near the Parliament, Pintr has
ERZSBETVROS This little speciality shop stocks homemade France only 35 36 38 39 40 42
everything from furniture and chandeliers jams, bottled fruit and honey, wine from the Japan 22 23 24 25 26 27
to oil paintings and china, and is the best BILLERBECK Map p222 Household Goods Sikls and Villny regions of southern Hun- UK 3 4 5 6 7 8
around for browsing.
%322 3606; www.billerbeck.hu; VII Dob utca 49; gary and fruit-flavoured brandies. It is the Mens Clothing
h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-1pm Sat; j4 or 6 place to visit if you havent been able to pick Aus 92 96 100 104 108 112
SZNYI ANTIKVRIUMA With several branches around town, Biller- up a jar or two of Hungarys greatest edible Europe 46 48 50 52 54 56
Map p222 Antiquarian & Secondhand Books beck has a large selection of feather and contribution to humanity traditionally Japan S M M L
%311 6431; www.szonyi.hu; V Szent Istvn krt goose-down duvets and other bedding and made lekvr (fruit jam), especially the apricot UK/USA 35 36 37 38 39 40
3; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat; j4 or 6 helpful staff. variety at a food market (p93). Mens Shirts (Collar Sizes)
This long-established antiquarian bookshop Aus/Japan 38 39 40 41 42 43
has an excellent selection of antique prints CINKLI Map pp218-19 Fashion & Clothing LIBRI KNYVPALOTA Map p222 Books Europe 38 39 40 41 42 43
and maps (look in the drawers) as well as %341 0540; www.majomketrec.hu; VII Dohny %267 4844; VII Rkczi t 12; h10am-7.30pm UK/USA 15 15 16 16 17 17
books. utca 94; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat; Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat; mM2 Astoria Mens Shoes
trolleybus 74 Spread over two floors, the huge Book Aus/UK 7 8 9 10 11 12
WAVE MUSIC Map p224 Music Whatever your drag of choice happens to Palace has a selection of English-language Europe 41 42 43 44 46 47
%331 0718; VI Rvay kz 2; h11am-7pm Mon- be 1960s camp to leather or military the novels, art books, guidebooks, maps, music, Japan 26 27 27 28 29 30
Fri, 11am-3pm Sat; mM1 Bajcsy-Zsilinszky t and a caf and Internet access on the
Shopping

Shopping
folks at this antifashion emporium of used USA 7 8 9 10 11 12
Wave is another excellent outlet for both and vintage clothes will have you kitted out 1st floor. For books in English and other
Hungarian and international indie music. before you can say Trick or Treat!. languages specifically on Hungarian sub-
jects, a more useful branch is Libri Stdium apricot and sour cherry to raspberry, make
(Map p224; %318 5680; V Vci utca 22; a beeline for this place. They stock hun-
h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat & dreds of varieties.
ERZSBETVROS

JZSEFVROS & FERENCVROS

Sun; mM3 Ferenciek tere).
MONARCHIA BORSZATI
JZSEFVROS & FERENCVROS Map pp218-19 Food & Drink
%456 9817; www.magyarborok.hu; IX Kinizsi
IGUANA Map p222 Fashion & Clothing utca 30-36; hnoon-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat;
%317 1627; VIII Krdy utca 9; h10am-7pm mM3 Ferenc krt
Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat; j4 or 6 Just opposite the Applied Arts Museum,
Iguana sells vintage leather, suede and vel- Monarchia has an extensive selection from
THIS IMAGE vet pieces from the 1950s, 60s and 70s, plus both established and new Hungarian vint-
NOT AVAILABLE its own trousers, skirts and shirts. Theres a
district IX branch (Map pp2289; %215 3475;
ners, but the best on offer are those bottled

IN PICK & MIX IX Tompa utca 1; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri,

under its own label.

10am-2pm Sat; mM3 Ferenc krt). NAGYCSARNOK

Map p224 Folk Art & Souvenirs, Food & Drink
MAGYAR PLINKA HZ IX Vmhz krt 1-3; h6am-5pm Mon, 6am-6pm
Map p222 Food & Drink Tue-Fri, 6am-2pm Sat; j47 or 49
Hungarian Plinka House; %338 4219; www.mag The Great Market is Budapests biggest food
yarpalinkahaza.hu; VIII Rkczi t 17; h9am-7pm market but, because it has been attracting
Mon-Sat; mM2 Astoria tourists ever since it was renovated for the
If youre into Hungarian plinka, the exquis- millecentenary in 1996, it now has dozens of
ite brandy flavoured with everything from stalls on the 1st floors south side selling
148 149
 Lonely Planet Publications
Hungarian folk costumes, dolls, painted next to the Petfi Csarnok (p133) in City
www.lonelyplanet.com

eggs, embroidered tablecloths, carved Park. The usual diamonds-to-rust stuff is

hunting knives and so on. At the same time, on offer from old records and draperies
gourmets will appreciate the Hungarian and to candles, honey and herbs. Sunday is the
other treats shrink-wrapped and potted better day.
foie gras and goose-liver pt (2200/4400Ft
for 100/200g), a good selection of dried
mushrooms, garlands of dried paprika (600Ft OUTER PEST DISTRICTS
to 800Ft), souvenir sacks and tins of paprika CHINESE MARKET Map pp226-7 Flea Market
powder (290Ft to 650Ft), and as many kinds Kinai piac; XIII Fy utca 60; h7am-6pm; j14
of honey (from 450Ft) and types of wine A rather unusual place, this is essentially
as youd care to name available on the a series of stalls run by Chinese, Vietnam-
ground floor at a fraction of what they would ese and Thais that offer the usual array
cost in the shops on nearby Vci utca. of knock-off designer clothing and cos-
metics, cigarettes and liquor of dubious
ANDRSSY T provenance. There are some decent (read
authentic) Asian food stalls here too.
BIBLIOTKA ANTIKVRIUM
Map p224 Antiquarian & Secondhand Books DUNA PLAZA Map pp226-7 Shopping Mall
%475 0240; www.bibliotekaantikvarium.hu; %465 1666; XIII Vci t 178; h8am-11pm;
VI Andrssy t 2; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm mM3 Gyngysi utca
Sat; mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc tr This is second only to West End City Centre
The Bibliotka at the start of VI Andrssy t in size, with three floors of 120 clothing
is a bit of a jumble sale but always worth a and shoe shops, a multiplex cinema with a
once over for possible treasures. dozen screens, bowling lanes, an ice-skating
rink and the requisite Greek taverna.
RK BOLTJA Map p222 Books
Writers Bookshop; %322 1645; VI Andrssy t 45; ECSERI PIAC Flea Market
Shopping

mM1 Oktogon, j4 or 6 %282 9563; XIX Nagykrsi t; h8am-4pm Mon-

For Hungarian authors in translation, in- Fri, 6am-3pm Sat, 8am-1pm Sun; g54
cluding many of those mentioned on p21, Often just called the piac (market), this is
this is the place to go. one of the biggest and best flea markets
in Central Europe, selling everything from
ANDRSSY T

LISZT FERENC ZENEMBOLT antique jewellery and Soviet army watches

to old musical instruments and Fred
Map p222 Music
Astairestyle top hats. Saturday is the best
%322 4091; VI Andrssy t 45; mM1 Oktogon day to go. To get there, take bus 54 from
Next to the Writers Bookshop, the Ferenc Borros tr in Pest near Petfi Bridge or,
Liszt Music Shop has mostly classical CDs, better yet, the red express bus 54 from the
tapes and vinyl as well as books of local Hatr utca stop on the M3 metro line and
interest and very scary staff. get off at the Fiume utca stop. Then follow
the crowds over the pedestrian bridge.
CITY PARK MOUNTEX Map pp218-19 Sporting Goods
CITY PARK FLEA MARKET
%239 6050; XIII Vci t 19; h10am-7pm Mon-
Map pp218-19 Flea Market Fri, 10am-2pm Sat; mM3 Lehel tr
Vrosligeti Bolhapiac; %363 3730, 251 7266; This huge emporium on two levels with
www.bolhapiac.com; XIV Zichy Mihly t; h7am- branches throughout the city (and country
2pm Sat & Sun; j1 or 1/a, trolleybus 70, 72 or 74 for that matter) carries all the gear youll Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
This is a huge outdoor flea market a kind need for hiking, climbing, camping and
of Hungarian boot or garage sale held so on. restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - Do the right thing with our content.
150 151
 Lonely Planet Publications

Buda
Castle Hill 154
154
Sleeping
Gellrt Hill & the Tabn 154
Vzivros 156
Buda Hills 157
Outer Buda Districts 157
Margaret Island 158
Pest 158
Inner Town 158
Northern Inner Town 159
Szent Istvn Krt & Terzvros 160
Erzsbetvros 162
Jzsefvros & Ferencvros 163
Andrssy t 164
City Park 165
Outer Pest Districts 165
150
 Sleeping
room through an agency. Two-star hotels usually have rooms with a private bathroom; its

www.lonelyplanet.com
almost always on the hall in a one-star place. Three- and four-star hotels can be excellent
value compared with those in other European countries.

PENSIONS
Budapest has scores of panzik (pensions), most of them are in the outskirts of Pest or in
Accommodation in Budapest runs the gamut from hostels in converted flats and private the Buda Hills and not very convenient unless you have your own (motorised) transport.
rooms in far-flung housing estates to luxury pensions in the Buda Hills and five-star proper- Pensions are popular with Germans and Austrians who like the homey atmosphere and the
ties charging upwards of 300 a night for a double. The low season for hotels runs roughly better breakfasts. Often pensions can cost as much as a moderate hotel, although there are
from mid-October or November to March (not including the Christmas and New Year some worthwhile exceptions.
holidays). The high season is the rest of the year a lengthy seven months or so when
prices can increase substantially. Almost without exception the rate quoted for hostel and
hotel accommodation includes breakfast. If youre driving, parking at many of the central PRIVATE ROOMS
Pest hotels will be difficult. Hungarys fizetvendg szolglat (paying-guest service) is a great deal and still relatively
cheap, but with the advent of pensions its not as widespread as it once was. Private rooms
in Budapest generally cost from 4500Ft to 6000Ft for a single, 6500Ft to 8000Ft a double,
Accommodation Styles and 8000Ft to 15,000Ft for a small apartment. Theres usually a 30% supplement on the
first night if you stay less than three nights. To get a room in the centre of town, you may
HOSTELS
Accommodation at Budapests ifjsgi szllk (youth hostels) is available year-round, but have to try several offices. You might need an indexed city map (p190) to find the block
during the university summer holidays (generally mid-June or July to late August) the where your room is located, though.
number of hostels increase exponentially. During this time, private outfits rent vacant Individuals on the streets outside the main train stations may offer you a private room,
dormitories from the universities and turn them into hostels. Competition is fierce and but their prices are usually higher than those asked by the agencies, and there is no quality
there are several hostel operators, so you can afford to shop around a bit. control. They vary considerably and cases of travellers being promised an idyllic room in
Dormitory accommodation in both year-round and summer hostels cost from 2000Ft to the centre of town, only to be taken to a dreary, cramped flat in some distant suburb are
5000Ft per person, depending on room size; doubles are 6000Ft to 12,000Ft. High season not unknown. On the other hand, weve received dozens of letters extolling the virtues of
usually means April to October. A Hostelling International (HI) card or equivalent (p187) is the landlords who readers have dealt with directly in this way. You really have to use your
not required at any hostel in Budapest, but own judgment here. Until you suss out the pitfalls, youre probably better off getting a
it will sometimes get you a discount of up room from an agency.
to 10% or an extra nights stay; make sure The tourist offices in Budapest do not arrange private accommodation, but will send
to ask beforehand. BOOK ACCOMMODATION ONLINE you to a travel agency like To-Ma (Map p224; %353 0819; www.tomatour.hu; V Oktber 6
Hostels usually provide laundry facilities For more accommodation reviews and recommenda- utca 22; h9am-noon & 1-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat-Sun; mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc tr).
(between 1000Ft and 1500Ft for a wash and tions by Lonely Planet authors, check out the online Among the best places to try for private rooms are Ibusz (p195) and Vista (p195) as well as
booking service at www.lonelyplanet.com. Youll find U Tours (opposite) in Keleti train station.
dry), a fully equipped kitchen, storage lock-

Sleeping
ers, TV lounge, no curfew or age limit and the true, insider lowdown on the best places to stay. After hours, try the mostly unhelpful Non-stop Hotel Service (Map p224; %266 8042, 318
computers for accessing the Internet (free Reviews are thorough and independent. Best of all, 3925; www.non-stophotelservice.hu; V Apczai Csere Jnos utca 1; h9am-10pm; mM1
or about 10Ft per minute). A useful website you can book online. Vrsmarty tr) near the Budapest Marriott Hotel.
is www.youthhostels.hu.
SERVICED APARTMENTS

PRICE RANGES
While you can go directly to all the hos-
tels mentioned under Cheap Sleeps in this chapter, the Express (p195) and Mellow Mood Budapest is chock-a-block with serviced apartments and apartment hotels. They all have
(p195) travel agencies are the best outfits for information about budget accommodation. In private bathrooms and usually kitchens at the very least. Some are positively luxurious
fact, the latter, which is affiliated with HI, runs three hostels and five budget hotels year- (eg Millennium Court in Pest; p159) while others are bare-bones (eg Peters Apartments
round as well as a half-dozen hostels that are open in summer only, mostly in Buda. It also in Pest; p161).
maintains three kiosks at Keleti train station (Map pp21819): Platform 9 kiosk (%353 2722;
h7am-6pm); Rail/bus office (%461 0948; h6am-10pm) along platform 6; and U Tours travel
agency (%303 9818; h7am-8pm) at the end of platform 6. Staff make bookings and can Price Ranges
advise you about or arrange transport from there. In this book budget accommodation hostels, private rooms, some pensions and cheap
Another major player in the competitive world of Budapest summer hostels is Universum hotels is anything for two people (double or twin) under 12,000Ft (49), midrange (usu-
(%06-28 558 900; www.universumyouthhostels.hu), which has accommodation at one year- ally pensions and hotels) is 12,500Ft (50) to 25,000Ft (102) and top end is anything over
round hotel and hostel in Pest and three hostels all with fridges in the rooms, safes and 25,500Ft (104). Because of the changing value of the forint, many hotels quote their rates
washer-dryers in the vicinity of the University of Technology and Economic Sciences (Map in euros. In such cases, we have followed suit. We quote the high-season rates here, but
pp2289) in Buda and a Keleti train station booking office (h7am to 8pm) next to platform 9. during the low season tariffs can be as much as 30% less.
The price quoted should be the price you pay, but its not as cut-and-dried in Budapest.
HOTELS Travel agencies generally charge a small fee for booking a private room or other accom-
Hotels, called szllk or szllodk, can be anything from the rapidly disappearing run-down modation, and theres usually a surcharge if you stay for less than three nights (at least on
old socialist-era hovels to luxurious five-star palaces. the first night). Budapest levies a 3% local tourist tax on those aged 18 to 70. Some top-end
A cheap hotel will usually be more expensive than a private room in Budapest, but it hotels in Budapest do not include the 15% VAT in their listed rack rates; make sure you
may be the answer if youre only staying one night or if you arrive too late to get a private read the fine print.
152 153
 one dorm room with 14 beds is usually
Longer-Term Rentals
www.lonelyplanet.com

www.lonelyplanet.com
booked in advance. Be warned: this area is TOP FIVE GRAND HOTELS
After the changes of 1989, many families in Budapest were given the opportunity to buy
something of a tourist trap and you may
at very low rates the flats they had been renting from the state since the 1950s. As a result, 
Four Seasons Gresham Palace Hotel (p159)
feel more like a prisoner than a prince or
Budapest is full of fully paid-up flats waiting to be let. 
Danubius Gellrt Hotel (left)
princess here.
Rental prices vary according to the condition of the property (naturally) and the district 
Corinthia Grand Hotel Royal (p162)
its located in; the most expensive areas for renting are districts I, II and XII in Buda and 
Le Meridien Budapest (p158)
districts V and XIII in Pest. Expect to pay at least 2000Ft per square metre in the leafy, DANUBIUS GELLRT HOTEL 
Danubius Grand Hotel Margitsziget (p158)
sought-after neighbourhoods of Buda. In Pest, a flat in central district V will cost from Map pp228-9 Hotel
1500Ft to 2000Ft per square metre and from 1000Ft to 1500Ft in districts VI or VII. The %889 5500; www.danubiusgroup.com/gellert;
diplomatic quarter west of City Park will cost as much as districts II and XII in Buda. The XI Szent Gellrt tr 1; s 75-130, d 170-210, ste the castle. The 30 rooms are bright and of
cheapest flats are to be found in the housing blocks of some of the more outlying districts 270; j18, 19, 47 or 49 a good size.
(eg districts III and XXII in Buda and almost everything that is situated east of the Big Budapests grande dame is a 234-room four-
Ring Road in Pest). star hotel with loads of character. Designed
Your best source of information is the daily classifieds-only newspaper Expressz (99Ft), by rmin Hegeds in 1909 and completed Cheap Sleeps
available from newsstands everywhere. These days, however, many of the advertisements in 1918, the hotel contains examples of the HOSTEL HILL Map pp228-9 Hostel
are from agencies, which usually require you to pay 3000Ft up front for the address of the late Art Nouveau, notably the thermal spa
property. Monthly property magazines include Ingatlan Magazin (480Ft) and Ingatlan XI Mnesi t 5; r with 1/2/3 beds per person
with its enormous arched glass entrance 6000/4000/3600Ft; hearly Jul-Aug; j18, 19, 47
Kavalkd (296Ft). Since ads are always in Hungarian only and the landlord is likely to hall and Zsolnay ceramic fountains in the
be monolingual youll have to get a native speaker to help you. Some good websites for or 49, g7 or 7/a
bathing pools. The baths are free for guests, On the way up to leafy Gellrt Hill, this
searching are the bilingual www.ingatlan.com and www.alfaapartments.com; www.alberlet but overall its other facilities are forgettable.
.lap.hu is in Hungarian only. institutional-looking building has 170 beds, a
Prices depend on which way your room sports ground and a swimming pool (admis-
faces and what sort of bathroom it has. sion 600Ft). Its a Mellow Mood hostel (p195).
HOTEL ASTRA Map p220
BUDA
Options for accommodation in the Buda
Hotel
%214 1906; www.hotelastra.hu; I Vm utca 6; HOTEL ORION Map p220 Hotel HOSTEL LANDLER Map pp228-9 Hostel
s/d/ste 90/105/135; mM2 Batthyny tr, g86 %356 8583; www.bestwestern-ce.com/orion; %463 3621; XI Bartk Bla t 17; dm 3400-3600Ft,
district are more limited than on the other
Tucked away in a small street just west of F I Dbrentei utca 13; s/d/tr/ste 88/112/132/150; d per person 3900Ft
side of the Danube River, but you will find a
quite a few luxurious big-name hotels along utca and just below the castle is this hotel- j18 or 19 At the foot of Gellrt Hill with 280 beds,
with some small, atmospheric pensions and cum-guesthouse, housed in a centuries-old Hidden away in the Tabn district, the Universums Landler has basic rooms for
many hostels, especially the summer-only townhouse. It has seven double rooms and Orion is a cosy place with a relaxed atmos- two to four people with washbasins and
type. three suites. phere and within easy walking distance of shared showers.
Sleeping

Sleeping
HOTEL KULTURINNOV Map p220 Hotel
CASTLE HILL %224 8102, 06 20 544 5396; www.mka.hu;
BURG HOTEL Map p220 Hotel I Szenthromsg tr 6; s/d/tr 64/80/100; g16
%212 0269; www.burghotelbudapest.com; or Vrbusz
CASTLE HILL

GELLRT HILL & THE TABN

I Szenthromsg tr 7-8; s/d 105/115, 2-person ste A 16-room hotel in the neo-Gothic former
127; g16 or Vrbusz Finance Ministry (1904), the Kulturinnov
This place with all the mod cons is in the cant be beaten for location or price in the
Castle District, just opposite Matthias Castle District. The guestrooms, though
Church. The 26 rooms are no more than clean and with private bathrooms, are not
just ordinary but, as they say, location is as nice as the opulent public areas of the THIS IMAGE
everything. hotel.
NOT AVAILABLE
HILTON BUDAPEST Map p220 Hotel
IN PICK & MIX
%889 6600; www.budapest.hilton.com; I Hess
GELLRT HILL & THE TABN
Andrs tr 1-3; s & d 130-190, with Danube view CITADELLA HOTEL Map pp228-9 Hotel & Hostel
160-210; g16 or Vrbusz %466 5794; www.citadella.hu; XI Citadella
Perched above the Danube on Castle stny; s & d with shared shower/shower/bathroom
Hill, the Hilton was built carefully in 10,000/11,000/12,000Ft; g27
and around a 14th-century church and This hotel in the fortress atop Gellrt-
baroque college (though it still has its hegy is pretty threadbare and though
detractors). It has 322 disappointingly most of the dozen dark-wood guestrooms
sombre rooms, with dark carpeting and share facilities, they are extra large and
low lighting but great views. retain some of their original features. The
154 155
 HOSTEL RZSA Map pp228-9 MARTOS HOSTEL Map pp228-9 Cheap Sleeps OUTER BUDA DISTRICTS
www.lonelyplanet.com

www.lonelyplanet.com
Hostel Hostel
%463 4250; XI Bercsnyi utca 28-30; d per person %209 4883, 06 30 911 5755; reception@hotel BRO PANZI Map pp218-19 Pension CHARLES HOTEL & APARTMENT
3900Ft .martos.bme.hu; XI Sztoczek Jzsef utca 5-7; s/d/tr/
%212 2929; http://buro-panzio.Internettudakozo Map p220 Serviced Apartment
Rzsa is another of the Universum group q/apt 4000/5000/7500/10,000/15,000Ft; j4 or 6
of hostels and has 111 double rooms with .hu; II Dkn utca 3; s/d/tr/q 8000/12,000/16,000/ %212 9169; www.charleshotel.hu; I Hegyalja t
Though primarily a summer hostel with
washbasins and shared showers. 200 beds, the independent Martos has
20,000Ft; mM2 Moszkva tr 23; standard studio s 44-49, d 52-66, tr 64-90,
Just off the northern side of Moszkva tr, executive studio 64-72, 72-89, 92-114, apt 72-
around 20 beds available year-round. Its
this pension looks basic from the outside,
HOSTEL SCHNHERZ Map pp228-9 Hostel reasonably well located, near the Danube,
but its 10 rooms are comfortable and have
158; g8 or 112
XI Irinyi Jzsef utca 42; r with 1/2/3 & 4 beds per and just a few minutes walk from Petfi On the Buda side of the river and some-
TVs and telephones. They were renovated what on the beaten track (a train line actu-
person 5000/3000/2500Ft; hearly Jul-Aug; j4 Bridge.
in early 2005 so they still have that just-off- ally runs right past the place), the Charles
or 6 the-assembly-line look. has 70 studios (larger-than-average rooms)
In an 18-storey block with 600 beds, this
Mellow Mood property (p195) has rooms VZIVROS HOSTEL BAKFARK Map pp218-19 Hostel
with tiny kitchens and weary-looking
furniture, as well as two-room apartments.
with one to four beds, all with their own ARTOTEL BUDAPEST Map p220 Hotel
II Bakfark Blint utca 1-3; dm 3000Ft; hmid-Jun It also has bikes available for rent at 2000Ft
shower; toilets are on the hall. %487 9487; www.artotel.hu; I Bem rakpart Aug; mM2 Moszkva tr, j4 or 6 per day.
16-19; s/d/ste 198/218/298, with Danube view In a solid brick pile near Moszkva tr and
HOSTEL UNIVERSITAS Map pp228-9 Hostel 218/238/318; j19, g86 below Castle Hill, this 80-bed Mellow Mood CONGRESS PARK HOTEL FLAMENCO
XI Irinyi Jzsef utca 9-11; s/d per person 4000/2500Ft; The Artotel is a minimalist hotel that would place has accommodation in dorm rooms
not look out of place in London or New Map pp228-9 Hotel
hearly Jul-Aug; j4 or 6 with six beds.
York. But what makes this 165-room place %889 5600; www.danubiusgroup.com/flamenco;
With 500 beds, this Mellow Mood hostel is
unique is that it cobbles together a seven- XI Tas vezr utca 7; s & d 95-120, ste 150-220;
much more basic than the Schnherz, with
just washbasins in the room and communal storey modern building (views of the castle
and the Danube) and an 18th-century
BUDA HILLS j19 or 49
showers in the hallway. It has a real party BEATRIX PANZI Map p216 Pension A rambling 355-room place, the Flamenco
baroque building; theyre separated by a really has little to recommend it (faceless
atmosphere, though.
leafy courtyard-cum-atrium. %275 0550; www.beatrixhotel.hu; II Szher t 3; rectangular block, smallish rooms) except
s/d/tr 60/65/75, apt 75-90; j56, g5 for its leafy location overlooking a park with
HOSTEL VSRHELYI Map pp228-9 Hostel On the way up to the Buda Hills but still
%463 4326; XI Kruspr utca 2-4; dm 3800Ft, d per
CARLTON HOTEL Map p220 Hotel easily accessible by public transport, this is
Budas Bottomless Lake (Feneketlen-t) and
an excellent gym and fitness centre.
person 4200Ft %224 0999; www.carltonhotel.hu; I Apor Pter an attractive pension with 18 rooms avail-
With a total of 500 beds, Universums Hos- utca 3; s/d/tr 90/115/126; g86 able. Surrounding the pension is a lovely
A total revamp at the start of 2005 has garden with a fish pond, sun terraces and HOTEL VENTURA Map pp228-9 Hotel
tel Vsrhelyi has rooms with two to four
%208 1232; fax 208 1234; www.gerandhotels
Sleeping

Sleeping
beds, all of which have private showers. given this 95-room hotel at the foot of a grill.
Castle Hill and at the end of a narrow cul- .hu/ventura.php; XI Fehrvri t 179; s 49-62,
de-sac in Watertown (Vzivros) a cleaner, IBS GARDEN HOTEL Map p216 Hotel d 62-78, tr 81-99; j47 or 18
fresher look and an extra star. %274 2088; www.ibsgardenhotel.hu; II Trogat This hotel, all done up in various shades of
t 2-4; s & d 59; j56, g29 blue, green and purple and with what can
VZIVROS

BUDA HILLS
HOTEL CSSZR Map pp218-19 Hotel This recently opened midrange hotel is west only be described as an enormous umbrella
%336 2640; www.csaszarhotel.hu; II Frankel Le of the Danube as you head towards the cage in the lobby, has 149 rooms spread
over two buildings and a modern gym. Its
utca 35; s/d/q 42/53/84, ste 116; j17, g86 Buda Hills. It has 100 rooms spread over five
floors, and is an excellent option for those off the beaten track but transport is good.
The Emperor started life as a convent in the
1850s, which might explain the size of the who want to be very close to the city but
34 cell-like rooms. Request one of the larger not exactly in it.
THIS IMAGE superior rooms that look onto the outdoor
Cheap Sleeps
BACK PACK GUESTHOUSE
NOT AVAILABLE Olympic-size pools of the huge Bla Komjdi
swimming complex (p137). Cheap Sleeps Map pp228-9 Hostel
IN PICK & MIX PAPILLON HOTEL Map pp218-19 Hotel %385 8946; www.backpackbudapest.hu; XI Takcs
HOTEL VICTORIA Map p220 Hotel %212 4750; www.hotels.hu/papillon; II Rzsah- Menyhrt utca 33; dm 2500-3000Ft, d 7000Ft;
%457 8080; www.victoria.hu; I Bem rakpart 11; egy utca 3/b; s/d/tr 38/48/58, apt for 3/5 people gblack-numbered 7 or 7A, j19 or 49
s/d/tr 102/107/148; j19, g86 per person 68/78; j4 or 6 A laid-back hostel in a colourfully painted
This hotel has 27 comfortable and spa- One of Budas best-kept accommodation suburban villa in south Buda, the Back Pack
cious rooms with larger-than-life views of secrets, this small 20-room hotel in Rzsa- Guesthouse is relatively small, with a mere
Parliament and the Danube. It gets special domb has a delightful back garden with 50 beds (large dormitories with between
mention for its friendly service and facili- a small swimming pool. There are also seven and 11 beds and small ones with four
ties, despite its small size. The best rooms two apartments available in the block just to five). There is a super garden in the back
are on floors 7 to 9. across the road. and a friendly, much-travelled manager.
156 157
 HOTEL GRIFF JUNIOR
PEST consider it the citys top five-star property. be seen, its on a quiet street just one block
www.lonelyplanet.com

www.lonelyplanet.com
Map pp228-9 Hotel Its next door to the Kempinski Corvinus. in from the Danube and coffee is on offer
Pest has the lions share of accommodation gratis throughout the day.
%203 2398; www.gerandhotels.hu/griff.php; in Budapest - with everything ranging from
XI Bartk Bla t 152; s/d/tr/q with washbasin & LE PANZI Map p224 Pension
the five-star, palatial Four Seasons Gresham
toilet 25/29/38/43, with shower 28/38/48/58; %266 9041; www.leopanzio.hu; V Kossuth MELLOW MOOD CENTRAL
Palace Hotel to most of the citys cheapest
j19 or 49, gred-numbered 7 hostels. Lajos utca 2/a, 2nd fl; s/d/tr 66/82/08; mM3 GUESTHOUSE Map p224 Hostel
With 126 rooms a quarter of them with Ferenciek tere %411 1310; www.mellowmoodhostel.com;
their own shower at rock-bottom prices This place would be a find just on the V Bcsi utca 2; dm 4500-5000Ft, d/tr/q per person
in a low-rise office block, this hotel next
to the much larger and pricier Hotel Griff,
INNER TOWN strength of its central location but when
you factor in the low cost, this B&B is a true
6800/5700/5400Ft; mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc tr
HOTEL ART Map p224 Hotel This place will put you right in the heart of
with which it has no connection (except a discovery. A dozen of its 14 immaculate town. With 179 beds on four floors, it is the
confusion factor), is a great choice for those %266 2166; www.bestwestern.com; V Kirly Pl rooms look down on busy Kossuth Lajos largest year-round hostel in Budapest so
on a tight budget. utca 12; s/d/tr 85/110/140; mM3 Klvin tr utca, but they all have double-glazing and dont expect the personal treatment. The
This Best Western property has Art Deco are quiet. dorms have six to eight beds. Still, its clean,
touches (including a pink faade) in the pub- upbeat and theres a 24-hour bar.
MARGARET ISLAND
Margaret Island has never done things by
lic areas, fitness centre and sauna, but the 32
guestrooms are, on the whole, quite ordin-
MILLENNIUM COURT
Map p224 Serviced Apartment RED BUS HOSTEL Map p224 Hostel
ary except for the few that have separate
halves. Here you will have to make a choice sitting and sleeping areas. Rooms that are %235 1800; www.execapartments.com/buder; %266 0136; www.redbusbudapest.hu; V Sem-
between top-end luxury or, at the other end located on the 5th floor have mansard roofs. V Pesti Barnabs utca 4; 1-/2-bedroom apt from melweis utca 14, 1st fl; dm 2800-3000Ft, s & d/tr
of the scale, budget accommodation. 145/195; mM3 Ferenciek tere 7900/11,000Ft; mM2 Astoria
DANUBIUS GRAND HOTEL HOTEL ERZSBET Map p224 Hotel A rather flash serviced apartment outfit in The Red Bus Hostel is a very friendly, cen-
Pest with 108 serviced studio apartments tral and well-managed place, with 28 beds
MARGITSZIGET Map pp226-7 Hotel %889 3700; www.danubiusgroup.com/erzsebet;
measuring about 60 sq metres, one-bed in four large and airy rooms (four to five
V Krolyi Mihly utca 11-15; s 75-95, d 95-105;
%889 4700; www.danubiusgroup.com/grandhotel; apartments of 32 to 64 sq metres and beds per room) as well as private rooms
XIII Margit-sziget; s/d/ste 153/168/198; g26 mM2 Ferenciek tere two-bedroom ones of 57 to 87 sq metres. that sleep up to three people. The new
One of Budapests first independent hotels, Stays of eight nights and more earn huge branch, Red Bus 2 (Map pp21819; %321
Constructed in the late 19th century,
the Elizabeth is in a very good location discounts. As part of the package, guests 7100; VII Szvetsg utca 2, 2nd fl; dm
this comfortable (rather than grand) and
in the centre of the university district staying here get to use the facilities of the 2800Ft; trolleybus 73, 74 or 76) has four
tranquil hotel has 164 rooms that boast
and within easy walking distance of the Budapest Marriott Hotel, which is just a rooms of four to five beds.
all the mod cons you would want and is
pubs and bars of Rday utca. But the 123 block to the northwest.
connected to the Danubius Thermal Hotel
guestrooms mostly twins spread across
Margitsziget via a heated underground
Sleeping

Sleeping
corridor, where you can take the waters
eight floors are small and dark. NORTHERN INNER TOWN
for free. Cheap Sleeps FOUR SEASONS GRESHAM
KEMPINSKI HOTEL CORVINUS DOWNTOWN HOSTEL Map p224 Hostel PALACE HOTEL Map p224 Hotel
Map p224 Hotel %266 4151; www.downtownhostel.com; V Kirlyi %268 6000; www.fourseasons.com/budapest;
Cheap Sleeps
MARGARET ISLAND

NORTHERN INNER TOWN

%429 3777; www.kempinski-budapest.com; Pl utca 7, 1st fl; dm 10-12, d/tr per person 18/14; V Roosevelt tr 5-6; s 250-740, d 280-770, ste
HOTEL MARGITSZIGET Map pp218-19 Hotel V Erzsbet tr 7-8; s 260-410, d 300-450, ste from mM3 Klvin tr, j47 or 49 from 950; mM1 Vrsmarty tr, g15
%329 2949; www.hotelmsz.hu; XIII Margit-sziget; 570; mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc tr Accommodation at this reader- This magnificent 179-room hotel has been
s 43-53, d 45-55; g26 Essentially for business travellers on hefty recommended hostel, in the centre of the created out of the long-derelict Art Nou-
This 11-room budget hotel in the centre of expense accounts, the Kempinski has university district and close to everything, veau Gresham Palace (1907). No expense
the island is surrounded by greenery and European service, American efficiency and is in dorm rooms with four or six beds as was spared to piece back together the
feels almost like a resort. Guests can use the Hungarian charm. A recent (and very thor- well as in doubles and triples. Theres also palaces Zsolnay tiles, famous wrought-iron
tennis courts, swimming pool and sauna for ough) renovation has given both the hotels a great kitchen here open round the clock Peacock Gates and splendid mosaics; the
free. Rooms 11 to 14 have balconies. public areas and 369 guestrooms and suites and the tea is free. hotel is truly worthy of its name.
a fresh new look and colour scheme.
GREEN BRIDGE HOSTEL Map p224 Hostel HOTEL HOLD Map p222 Hotel
TOP FIVE BOUTIQUE & SMALLER LE MERIDIEN BUDAPEST Map p224 Hotel %266 6922; reservations@greenbridgehostel.com; %472 0480; www.hotelhold.hu; V Hold utca 5; s/d
HOTELS %429 5500; www.budapest.lemeridien.com; V Molnr utca 22-24; dm 11-17, d/tr/q per person 88/99, ste 121-165; mM3 Arany Jnos

Artotel Budapest (p156) V Erzsbet tr 9-10; s 235-385, d 275-425, ste 25/19/18; mM3 Klvin tr The Moon is an excellent choice if you

Residence Izabella (p165) from 360; mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc tr Few hostels truly stand out in terms of want to stay in an affordable and romantic

Andrssy Hotel (p164) Le Meridiens public areas and 218 guest- comfort, location and reception, but Green hotel right in the centre of town. The 28

Hotel Domina Fiesta (p162) rooms spread over seven floors are dripping Bridge has it all and in spades. With rooms on two floors there is no lift look

Hotel Astra (p154) in brocade and French polished furniture everything from doubles to an eight-person down onto a central covered courtyard or
(think royalty over rock star), and many dormitory available, bunks are nowhere to onto Hold utca.
158 159
 STARLIGHT SUITEN HOTEL HILTON WEST END Map p222
www.lonelyplanet.com

www.lonelyplanet.com
Hotel
Map p224 Serviced Apartment %288 5500; www.hilton.com; VI Vci t 1-3; GAY STAYS
%484 3700; www.starlighthotels.com; V Mrleg s & d 170-225, ste 205-245; mM3 Nyugati
Connection Guest House (Map p224; %267 7104; www.connectionguesthouse.com; VII Kirly utca 41; s 45-60,
utca 6; s/d ste 149/179; mM1 Vrsmarty tr, plyaudvar
d 50-70; mM1 Opera)This very central gay pension above a leafy courtyard attracts a young crowd due to its
g15 The Hilton chains more central 230-room
proximity to nightlife venues. Two of the seven rooms share facilities on the corridor and rooms 6 and 7 face partially
This very luxurious suite hotel with 54 property adjoins the massive West End City
pedestrianised Kirly utca.
units is primarily aimed at the German and Centre shopping mall and offers every type
Austrian business markets. The suites, which of facility and food and beverage outlet KM Saga Guest Residence (Map pp218-19; %217 1934; www.km-saga.hu; IX Lnyay utca 17, 3rd fl; s 38-63,
are uniform in layout, consist of a bedroom, imaginable (p148). The target here is very d 50-75; mM3 Klvin tr, g15, j47 or 49) This unique place has five themed rooms, an eclectic mix of
living room and bathroom and range from much the business market. 19th-century furnishings and a hospitable, multilingual Hungarian-American owner. Its essentially a gay B&B but
40 to 60 sq metres. There are no kitchens; everyone is welcome. Two rooms share a bathroom. The KM Saga II (Map p224; %217 1934; IX Vmhz krt 11,
6th fl; mM3 Klvin tr, j47 or 49) branch is somewhat more modern but less atmospheric and has three rooms
the suites have microwave ovens only. K+K HOTEL OPERA Map p224 Hotel
with private bathrooms and a shared kitchen at the same rates.
%269 0222; www.kkhotels.com; VI Rvay utca 24;
s/d/ste from 168/209/336; mM1 Opera
Cheap Sleeps This upbeat, Austrian-owned place just be-
GARIBALDI GUESTHOUSE hind the Hungarian State Opera House has NH BUDAPEST Map p222 Hotel drugs, booze or tobacco), so dont expect
Map p222 Guesthouse %814 0000; www.nh-hotels.com; XIII Vgsznhz to party here.
206 rooms spread over seven floors. Theyre
%302 3457, 06 30 951 8763; garibaldiguest@ on the smallish side and decorated in utca 3; s & d 119-182; j4 or 6
hotmail.com; V Garibaldi utca 5, 5th fl; s/d 28/32, unusually cheerful colours predominantly There are 160 rooms spread out over this CATERINA HOSTEL Map p222 Hostel
apt per person 25-45; mM2 Kossuth Lajos tr yellows, blues and reds which raises the eight-floor purpose-built hotel and three %269 5990, 06 20 992 8854; www.caterinahostel
Arguably the most welcoming hostel-cum- tenor of the whole place. rooms on each floor have a balcony. We .hu; VI Terz krt 30, 3rd fl; dm 2500-2800Ft Apr-
guesthouse in Budapest, the Garibaldi has especially like the location, behind the Oct, s/d/t per person 6800/3400/3400Ft, 5-bed apt
Comedy Theatre, the minimalist but wel-
five rooms with shared bathrooms and MEDOSZ HOTEL BUDAPEST per person 3200Ft; mM1 Oktogon
kitchen in a flat just around the corner from coming and very bright atrium lobby and For a long time a key player on the Buda-
Map p222 Hotel the helpful staff dressed in attractive black
Parliament. The gregarious owner has at pest budget accommodation scene, the
%374 3000; www.medoszhotel.hu; VI Jkai tr 9; designer togs.
least a half-dozen other apartments avail- Caterina Hostel has moved from Oktogon
s/d/tr 55/65/75, ste from 93; mM1 Oktogon in the past year or so but continues to
able in the same building.
One of the most central cheaper hotels in SYDNEY APARTMENT HOTEL offer reliable and cheap accommodation
Pest, the Medosz is just opposite the res-
Map pp218-19 Serviced Apartment in a 3rd-floor, 27-bed walk-up apartment
taurants and bars of Liszt Ferenc tr. The
SZENT ISTVN KRT & 67 rooms are well worn but clean and have %236 8800, 236 8888; www.sydneyapart that is above the celebrated Mvsz
Cinema.
hotel.hu; XIII Hegeds Gyula utca 52-54; studio
TERZVROS private bathrooms and satellite TV.
Sleeping

Sleeping
170, 1-bedroom apt 190-22, 2-bedroom apt
BOAT HOTEL FORTUNA EASTSIDE HOSTEL Map p222 Hostel
270-310; mM3 Lehel tr, trolleybus 76, g15
Map pp218-19 Hotel
or 133 %06 70 574 0224; http://riversidebudapest.tripod
%288 8100; www.fortunahajo.hu; XIII Szent This lovely property, hard by Vci t and .com; V Falk Miksa utca 24-26, 1st fl; dm 10, d 16;
SZENT ISTVN KRUT & TERZVROS

SZENT ISTVN KRUT & TERZVROS

Istvn Park, Pesti als rakpart; s/d/tr with wash- the West End City Centre mall, has 97 taste- j4 or 6
basin 20/30/40, with shower 65/80/100; fully furnished units of between 45 and 110 This cosy hostel on Budapests classy an-
trolleybus 76 or 79 sq metres, a gorgeous courtyard garden, tique row is a wonderful place to stay and
This boatel in a one-time river ferry an- marble finishings throughout, classical readers have highly recommended it. It
chored in the Danube has 44 single and music in the lobby and an indoor swim- has three rooms with between two and
double rooms with shower and toilet at ming pool and fitness centre. Special rates six beds (not a bunk bed in sight) and free
Internet access. The six-bedded room has a
water level and 14 rooms with two or three
beds and just washbasin below deck.
THIS IMAGE are available at the weekend and after a
months stay. small balcony and wait for it a sliver of
NOT AVAILABLE a view of the Danube.
CITY HOTEL RING Map p222 Hotel IN PICK & MIX
%340 5450; www.taverna.hu/ring; XIII Szent
Cheap Sleeps PETERS APARTMENTS
Istvn krt 22; s/d/tr 72/98/124; mM3 Nyugati
BEST HOSTEL Map p222 Hostel Map pp218-19 Serviced Apartment
plyaudvar %332 4934; www.besthostel.hu; VI Podmaniczky %06 30 520 0400; www.peters.hu; XIII Victor
This small, almost motel-like place with utca 27, 1st fl; dm 3000Ft, d/q per person 4200/ Hug utca 25-27; s/d/tr 42/52/55; mM3 Lehel tr,
39 rooms is on two floors of a fin-de-sicle 3600Ft; mM3 Nyugati plyaudvar g15, trolleybus 76
building, but youd never know that from This is a six-room hostel put together from This budget place in Pest offers 20 studio
the inside looking out. Some of the rooms several apartments with parquet floors, apartments of approximately 20 sq me-
look onto the busy ring road, others onto very high ceilings and big, airy rooms. Its a tres in a basic but clean building at some
an attractive and very quiet courtyard. quiet place with a fair number of rules (no rock-bottom prices. Some of the units have
160 161
 air-conditioning (which costs 8 extra) and ently located directly opposite the Keleti 1890 that is interesting enough to warrant are private, with beds separated by lockers
www.lonelyplanet.com

www.lonelyplanet.com
balconies; all have TV. Prices are negoti- train station. The bluer-than-blue inner consideration. The 54 guestrooms (some and curtains.
able, especially during the low season and courtyard is a delight, and reception, which two-thirds of which are reserved for non-
at weekends. is to be found on the 5th floor, is clean and smokers) are nothing special, however. MUSEUM GUEST HOUSE Map p222 Hostel
bright with a dramatic central staircase.
%318 9508, 266 8879; www.budapesthostel
STAR HOTEL Map pp218-19 Hotel
ERZSBETVROS HOTEL DOMINA FIESTA Map p224 Hotel %479 0400; www.starhotel.hu; VII Istvn utca 14;
.com; VIII Mikszth Klmn tr 4, 1st fl; dm 3200Ft;
mM3 Klvin tr
CARMEN MINI HOTEL Map p224 Pension %328 3000; www.dominahotels.it; VI Kirly utca s/d/tr/apt 64/80/90/120; trolleybus 74 or 79 The Museum is a pokey but creatively
%352 0798; carmen@axelero.hu; Kroly krt 5/b, 20; s/d/tr/q 120/140/190/220; mM1/2/3 Dek A recent addition to the Mellow Mood hos- decorated and friendly place, with mostly
2nd fl; s/d/tr 50/60/75; mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc tr Ferenc tr tel groups stable is this 48-room midrange eight beds in three rooms (though there is
With nine rooms, the Carmen Mini Hotel This attractive boutique hotel, under the hotel just a few minutes walk north of the one room with four beds). Its free Internet
is about the nearest youll find to a B&B in management of a small Italian hotel chain, Keleti train station. The ground-floor lobby access, location on a lovely square and
Budapest. Its very close to Dek Ferenc tr has 112 tastefully furnished rooms and a is quite spacious and most of the guest- proximity to the nightlife of VIII Krdy utca
and convenient to all forms of transport. vaulted wine-cellar restaurant just minutes rooms are doubles spread over four floors. and IX Rday utca are all pluses.
from Pests main square.
CORINTHIA GRAND HOTEL ROYAL
Map p222 Hotel KINGS HOTEL Map p222 Hotel Cheap Sleeps JZSEFVROS &
%479 4000; www.corinthia.hu; VII Erszbet %352 7675; www.kosherhotel.hu; VII Nagy Difa 10 BEDS Map p222 Hostel
krt 43-49; s 180-240, d 220-280, ste from 300; utca 25-27; s 40-50, d 50-60, tr 60-70; mM2 %06 20 933 5965; adrianzador@hotmail.com; VII
FERENCVROS
Erzsbet krt 15, 3rd fl; dm 3000Ft; j4 or 6 ATLAS HOTEL Map pp218-19 Hotel
j4 or 6 Blaha Lujza tr
The erstwhile Hotel Royal on the Big Ring Budapests only kosher hotel has 78 rooms OK, its misnamed: the place has a dozen %299 0256; www.atlashotelbudapest.com;
Road has reopened as a very grand 414- and is within easy walking distance of both beds (in three rooms). But thats about the VIII Npszinhz utca 39-41; dm 17, s/d/tr
room five-star hotel, and its lobby a double the orthodox and conservative synagogues. only thing wrong with this hostel. Its a laid- 60/75/80; j28 or 37
atrium with a massive marble staircase is The hotels restaurant is lemehadrin (or back place with a great kitchen, free use This enormous, 136-room place in less-
among the most impressive in the capital. glatt) kosher and supervised by the chief of a washing machine and an Australian than-salubrious district VIII has very basic
rabbi of Budapest. owner who trusts his guests enough to give dormitory rooms with between five and
them their own set of keys. Beg, borrow six beds on the first five floors and more-
HOTEL BAROSS Map pp218-19 Hotel
MERCURE HOTEL BUDAPEST and/or steal to stay here. comfortable singles, doubles and triples
%461 3010; www.barosshotel.hu; VII Baross tr on the next three. It is said that youll
15; s/d/tr/q 78/90/102/114, apt for 4/6/8 people MUSEUM Map p222 Hotel
%485 1080; www.mercure.com; VIII Trefort
AQUARIUM YOUTH HOSTEL always find a room at the Atlas, which may
120/145/160; mM3 Keleti plyaudvar (or may not) be a recommendation.
utca 2; s & d/tr 110/140; mM2 Astoria, g7 or 78 Map pp218-19 Hostel
Sleeping

Sleeping
The flagship hotel of the Mellow Moods
group of hostels (p195), the Baross is a This hotel, though part of an expanding %344 6143, 321 8444; www.budapesthostel.com;
comfortable, 40-room caravanserai conveni- chain, is in a lovely building dating from VII Alserdsor utca 12, 2nd fl; dm/d 3000/8000Ft; CORVIN HOTEL Map pp228-9 Hotel
mM2 Keleti plyaudvar %218 6566; corvin@mail.datanet.hu; IX Angyal
This sister hostel to the Museum Guest utca 31; s/d/tr/ste 69/79/89/99 Apr-Oct; mM3
ERZSBETVROS

JZSEFVROS & FERENCVROS

House is a mere 250m northwest of Keleti Ferenc krt
train station and has a total of 17 beds Close to the Danube, this newly built hotel
in four rooms. The kitchen is a good size, in up-and-coming Ferencvros has 47 very
Internet access is free till 11pm and the comfortable rooms with all the mod cons
natives are friendly, but this place should and secure parking in a covered garage.
be a second choice after most of the other
hostels in this section. GOLDEN PARK HOTEL
THIS IMAGE MARCO POLO HOSTEL Map p222 Hostel
Map pp218-19 Hotel
NOT AVAILABLE %477 4777; www.goldenparkhotel.com;
%413 2555; www.marcopolohostel.com; VII Nyr VIII Baross tr 10; s/d/tr from 60/70/90; mM3
IN PICK & MIX utca 6; dm 20, s 54, d/tr/q per person 38/28/26; Keleti plyaudvar
mM2 Blaha Lujza tr This old workhorse of a hotel has been
The Mellow Mood groups flagship hos- completely de- and reconstructed, and
tel, very central and open year-round is a today it is a shimmering four-star caravan-
swish, powder-blue, 47-room place, with serai number within spitting distance of the
telephones and TVs in all the rooms except Keleti train station. We like the bright and
the dorms and a lovely courtyard. Even airy lobby, the glass doors at either end of
the five spotless 12-bed dorm rooms (one the corridors letting in light and some of
reserved for women during the low season) the old features they managed to retain.
162 163
 HOTEL SISSI Map pp228-9 are awash in marble and gilt; the dining HOTEL BENCZR Map pp218-19
www.lonelyplanet.com

www.lonelyplanet.com
Hotel Hotel
%215 0082; www.hotelsissi.hu; IX Angyal utca 33; rooms skylight of vintage stained glass is %479 5650; www.hotelbenczur.hu; VI Benczr TOP FIVE HOSTELS &
s/d 110/120, ste from 195; mM3 Ferenc krt delightful. Among the 76 rooms those look- utca 35; s 49-79, d 69-99; mM1 Bajza utca
Named in honour of Elizabeth, the ing away from the ring road and onto This rather faded place done up in creams
GUESTHOUSES
Habsburg empress, Hungarian queen and a back courtyard are the most desirable. and oranges has 96 serviceable rooms 
KM Saga Guest Residence (p161)
consort of Franz Joseph who was much (some of which look down on a leafy 
Back Pack Guesthouse (p157)
loved by Hungarians, the Sissi is decorated garden) spread over seven floors. Its just 
Red Bus Hostel (p159)
in a minimalist-cum-elegant sort of style, Cheap Sleeps minutes away from Andrssy t, Hsk tere 
Green Bridge Hostel (p159)
and the 44 guestrooms spread over six FORTUNA HOTEL and City Park. 
Station Guesthouse (p166)
floors are of a good size. Map pp228-9 Hotel & Hostel
%215 0660; www.fortunahotel.hu; IX Gyli t 3/b; RADIO INN Map pp218-19 Pension
HOTEL THOMAS Map pp228-9 Hotel dm 4500Ft, s 12,000-15,000Ft, d 14,000-17,000Ft; %342 8347; www.radioinn.hu; VI Benczr utca 19; the 139 rooms are comfortable (try to get
%218 5505; www.hotels.hu/hotelthomas; IX mM3 Nagyvrad tr s/d 52/75, 2-room apt 92; mM1 Bajza utca one of the four with a bow window); there
Liliom utca 44; s 55-65, d 75-85; mM3 Ferenc With 29 rooms (including dorms with four Just off leafy Andrssy t, this excellent are four nonallergenic rooms, four of seven
or five beds) this place is not in the best guesthouse has 33 large one-bedroom floors are for nonsmokers, and the service
krt
part of Budapest but its quiet, super clean apartments with bathroom and kitchen, 10 here is excellent.
A brightly coloured place in an odd spot, the
Thomas has 45 rooms and is a real bargain and the huge Taiwan restaurant (p117) is with two bedrooms and one with three, all
just below. Reception (and all guestrooms, spread over five floors. The lovely garden
for its location in up-and-coming Ferenc-
vros. Some rooms including No 14 for that matter) are on the 2nd floor. courtyard is a delight.
Cheap Sleeps
have balconies onto an inner courtyard. DOMINIK PANZI Map pp218-19 Pension
HOTEL RILA Map pp228-9 Hotel & Hostel RESIDENCE IZABELLA %460 9428; dominikpanzio@axelero.hu; XIV
IBIS CENTRUM HOTEL Map p224 Chzr Andrs utca 3; s/d/28/36, apt 75; g7
Hotel %215 3278, 216 1621; www.hotelrila.com; Map p222 Serviced Apartment
Close to Thkly t and beside a large
%456 4100; www.ibishotel.com; IX Rday utca 6; IX Fehr Holl utca 2; dm 4400Ft, s/d 9000/12,000Ft, %475 5900; www.residenceizabella.com; VI Iza- church, this bare-bones pension is on a
s & d 75-85; mM3 Klvin tr s/d/tr/q with bathroom 11,500/14,000/16,500/18,0 bella utca 61; 1-bedroom apt 180-330, 2-bedroom leafy street lined with 19th-century villas
It may not be the most atmospheric hotel 00Ft; mM3 Nagyvrad tr, j24 440-605; mM1 Vrsmarty utca and just two stops northeast of Keleti train
in town, but Ibis Centrum is the right price The flagship property (and only hotel) in This fabulous conversion of a 19th-century station by bus. The 36 rooms, which could
for its location near the start of the Rday the Universum hostel group, the 31-room Eclectic building has 38 apartments meas- use an upgrade, come with shared bath-
utca pedestrianised nightlife area. It has Rila is a former workers hostel that has uring between 45 and 97 sq metres just off rooms and there is a five-person apartment
126 rooms over nine floors, an in-house been spruced up into quite a nice little swanky Andrssy t. The units surround a available.
garage and a leafy garden on the 1st floor. property. Open year-round, it has both hos- delightful and very tranquil central court-
tel accommodation and hotel-style rooms. yard garden and the dcor mixes materials
Sleeping

Sleeping
MERCURE NEMZETI Map p222 Hotel such as wood, terracotta and basketry to
great effect.
OUTER PEST DISTRICTS
%477 2000; www.mercure.com; VIII Jzsef krt HOSTEL KINIZSI Map pp228-9 Hostel HOTEL PLATNUS Map pp228-9 Hotel
4; s & d 80-110; mM2 Blaha Lujza tr IX Kinizsi utca 2-6; dm 2400Ft, s/d/tr 5000/2700/ %333 6505, 210 2592; www.hunguesthotels.hu;
This powder-blue Art Nouveau beacon in 2400Ft per person; hJul & Aug; mM3 Ferenc CITY PARK VIII Knyves Klmn krt 44; s/d/tr 90/110/120;
ANDRSSY T

OUTER PEST DISTRCITS

a relatively grotty area of central Pest was krt mM3 Npliget
originally built in 1896, and its public areas HOTEL DLIBB Map pp218-19 Hotel
Close to the Danube and the IX Rday utca Platnus, with 128 rooms on the noisy
nightlife strip, the only summer hostel in %342 9301; www.hoteldelibab.hu; VI Dlibb outer ring road, is moderately priced in
Pest managed by the Mellow Mood group utca 35; s 52-68, d 62-79, tr 81-95; mM1 the low season, but room prices jump in
of hostels (p195) has basic rooms with one Hsk tere summer. It has a fitness centre with a well-
to five beds (total 210 beds) in a modern, The 34-room Mirage is housed in what equipped gym, sauna and aerobics room
six-storey student residence. was once a Jewish orphanage across from (8am to 10pm Monday to Friday, noon to
Hsk tere and City Park and is pretty 5pm Saturday and Sunday) and is a short
basic as it awaits renovation by the Mel- distance from Npliget Park and the Np-
THIS IMAGE ANDRSSY T low Mood group. Ask for one of the nine
rooms that face the quiet courtyard to
liget bus station.
NOT AVAILABLE ANDRSSY HOTEL Map pp218-19 Hotel
%462 2195; www.andrassyhotel.com; VI Andrssy
the rear. ORIENTAL HOTEL Map pp226-7 Hotel
IN PICK & MIX t 111; standard s & d 134-240, ste from 161; %239 2399; hoteloriental@euroweb.hu; XIII Fy
HOTEL LIGET Map pp218-19 Hotel utca 61; s/d/tr 56/66/97; j14, g4
mM1 Hsk tere
This stunning five-star hotel along the main %269 5300; www.liget.hu; VI Dzsa Gyrgy t This 95-room hotel is the place to stay
street has 70 tastefully decorated rooms 106; s/d/tr 105/120/152; mM1 Hsk tere should the untouristed Angyalfld district
(almost half of which have balconies) in a The Park is an oddly shaped peach- of northern Pest and the Chinese market
listed building. The use of etched glass and coloured building facing verdant City Park, (p150) attract. There are a few Asian restaur-
mirrors as well as wrought iron is inspired. part of the zoo and a very busy road. But ants in the vicinity.
164 165
 Lonely Planet Publications
Cheap Sleeps
www.lonelyplanet.com

HOTEL FLANDRIA Map pp226-7 Hotel TOP FIVE HOTELS WITH A

%350 3181; hotelflandria@axelero.hu; XIII Szegedi GARDEN
t 27; s/d/tr/q with washbasin 5100/6300/7400/ 
Sydney Apartment Hotel (p161)
8600Ft, with shower 9500/9500/12,000/14,000Ft; g4 
Papillon Hotel (p157)
The Flandria is a classic example of a former 
Beatrix Panzi (p157)
workers hostel that has been turned into a 
IBS Garden Hotel (p157)
budget hotel. Dont expect anything within 
Radio Inn (p165)
a couple of light years of luxury, but the
116 guestrooms, which have from one to
four beds, a TV and refrigerator, are both STATION GUESTHOUSE
clean and serviceable. Map pp218-19 Hostel
%221 8864; www.stationguesthouse.hu; XIV
HOTEL GLIT Map pp218-19 Hotel Mexiki t 36/b; dm 2300-2800Ft, d & t/q per per-
%350 1456; www.gerandhotels.hu; XIII Kerekes son 3600/3800Ft; gred-numbered 7, j1 or 1A
utca 12-20; s/d/tr/q 6000/7100/7800/8900Ft; g4 This guesthouse in suburban Zugl is a real
This very basic but spotlessly clean hotel party place, with a 24-hour bar, pool table
in Angyalfld northeast of the Inner Town and occasional live entertainment. It has
and Lehel market has 135 basic rooms between 42 and 56 beds, depending on
with between one and four beds. There are the season. For those intending to stay a
washbasins in the rooms, and showers and while, rates drop by 100Ft a night from the
toilets on the corridor. second to the sixth nights.
Sleeping
OUTER PEST DISTRCITS

Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
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166 167
 Lonely Planet Publications

Excursions
Castles & Manor Houses 169
Cathedrals 169
Wine 169
Szentendre 170
Gdll 171
Martonvsr 173
Veszprm 174
166
Eger 175
 Pspkladny
M35

Mezberny
National Park
Krs-Maros

Bks
Vszt
Polgr

Hortobgy
Excursions

National
Szerencs
E71

Park
BORSOD-ABAJ-

Hortobgy

Ndudvar

Szeghalom
ZEMPLN

Gyomaendrd
Encs

4
Tiszajvros

M3
MISKOLC

Kisjszlls
Tiszafred

BKS
Aggtelek
National

Karcag
M30
Edelny

E573
Park

Meztr

River
A lot in Hungary is within easy striking distance of Budapest, and many of the towns and
Sajszentpter

Trkeve
lek

Szarvas
Trkszentmikls
Ag Hills

Lillafred
cities in the Danube Bend (to the north of Budapest), Transdanubia (west), Northern
gte

Kazincbarcika
Aggtelek

Fzesabony
National

Tisza
Lake

JSZ-NAGYKUN-
Bkk
Park

Mezkvesd

s
Uplands (north and northeast) and even the Great Plain (east and southeast) could be
Hills
Putnok

Kr
SZOLNOK

National Park
Krs-Maros
Szilvsvrad

Kerecsend
visited on a day trip from the capital. You can get to Szentendre to the north in less than

Kunszentmrton
Eger
an hour by the HV commuter train, for example, and Eger, a lovely Mediterranean-like

Heves
M3
k

Tiszafldvr
Bk

town lying between the Bkk and Mtra Hills to the northeast, is just two hours away by

Plain
E71

Jszapti
HEVES
InterCity train.

E60
zd
SLOVAKIA

Kkestet
(1014m)
r This chapter assumes youll be returning to Budapest after a day of sightseeing, though

Szolnok
ve
Ri weve included a few accommodation options in each section in case you miss your train
Pard

Great
Gyngys
a

Csongrd
Tisz
or bus, or simply decide you like the place so much you want to stay a night or two. For
Salgtarjn

Tiszakcske
fuller treatment of these and other destinations, see Lonely Planets Hungary.
Pardsasvr
Btonyterenye

Abony

Nagykrs
Mtrahza

Jszberny
Mtra
Hills

CASTLES & MANOR HOUSES

Kiskunflegyhza
Luenec

21

Hatvan

Cegld
Albertirsa

E75
Nagykta

M5
Some of Hungarys most dramatic castles and opulent manor houses are near to Budapest.
lls
Hollk

Pszt

KECSKEMT
Hi

Bugac
Szcsny

First and foremost, is the hilltop fortress at Eger (p175), a castle and a half if there ever was
one and the stuff of legend (see the boxed text, p177). The Royal Mansion (p171) at Gdll is
Gdll

Lajosmizse

NGRD

Monor

E60 Hungarys largest baroque and now best preserved manor house. The Brunswick Mansion
M3
t

Kiskunsg
Gymr
rh

National
Park
E75
(p173) at Martonvsr may not be able to compete in size or opulence, but it will give any
Cse

E71

Vecss
BUDAPEST
Balassagyarmat

M5

Dabas
place a run for its money in terms of the company it has kept.
Dunakeszi

Dunaharaszti

Kiskunsg
Ft

National
Gd

PEST
Vc
National Park

Park
Danube-Ipoly

4
M2
Ngrd

Gyl

CATHEDRALS
E77

Dunafldvr
2

Szzhalombatta

Rckeve
Szentendre

M0
Szigetszentmikls

If you havent had your fill of grand churches in Budapest, travel the extra distance north
ly River
E77

ls
Hil
Hills
Pilis
Visegrd

ny
30 miles

Brzs
50 km

to Szentendre, whose Belgrade Cathedral (p170) is the seat of the Serbian Orthodox primate in
Budars
Budakeszi

rd
Pilisvrsvr

E73
Dunajvros
Hungary and contains an important collec-

6
o
Ip

E73
M6

tion of church plate and liturgical objects.

10

Srbogrd
Grdony
Martonvsr
Esztergom

Windy Veszprm, set high up on a plateau,

M7
Bicske

ORGANISED TOURS
Dorog
trovo

Velence
Lake

has so many fine churches that the locals

E71

FEJR
Tatabnya

Si River
exclaim, Either the wind is blowing or the If youre pressed for time or too lazy to do it yourself,
M1

SZKESFEHRVR

bells are ringing in Veszprm. But first and a number of travel agencies (p195) and tour operators
Oroszlny

foremost is the Cathedral of St Michael (p174)

Enying
Tata

(p52) organise excursions to destinations outside

Nov Zmky

with an important Gothic crypt. The ca- Budapest. By way of example, a 4-hour tour by boat
E75
1

Tamsi
ESZTERGOM
KOMROM-

thedral, is on the site of the first bishops

Komrno

and bus to Szentendre or to Gdll just by bus with

Mr

Polgrdi
Komrom

E60

palace, and parts of it date from the begin- Cityrama costs 11,000Ft (children under 12 free or half
Nitra

Sifok

ning of the 11th century. The enormous

0
0

price), while an 8-hour tour of the Danube Bend by

Vrpalota
E66

Balatonfred

neoclassical cathedral (p176) at Eger, however, is coach and boat with stops at Visegrd and Eszter-
10

the most important architecturally and, des-

Kisbr

gom costs 14,000Ft. Cityrama also offers day trips to

M7
Zirc

pite its size and scale, is surprisingly light Lake Balaton (Balatonfred and Tihany) and Herend
E71
Herend

Balatonboglr

and airy inside.

Veszprm
E75

(16,000Ft, nine to 10 hours) as well as to Lajosmizse

ills

Tihany
yH
VESZPRM

on the Southern Great Plain (18,000Ft, eight hours).

GYR

n
Pannonhalma

lato
on

WINE
Hungary Program Centrum operates similar tours at
Ba
ak
r

ve
Trnava

B
Ri

almost the same prices, as well as an eight-hour trip

ake

e
Tapolca

ub
L

Eger, the birthplace of the famed Bikavr to Bugac in Kiskunsg National Park (19,000Ft) and
E75

Ajka

n
Da
Badacsony
E60
BRATISLAVA

(Bulls Blood wine; see p177), is inextric- a nine-hour tour of the Eger wine region (22,000Ft).
Ppa

Celldmlk
M1

GYR-MOSON-

ably linked with wine, and one of the best

Csorna
Hegyeshalom

Vista has a six-day tour of the country including ac-

Mosonmagyarvr

Keszthely
8

National Park
SOPRON

places in Hungary to sample the fruit of commodation and half-board that takes in parts of
Uplands
Balaton
E65

E66
E75

the vine is at the nearby Valley of the Beauti-

E65

the Northern Uplands, Great Plain, Southern Trans-

Smeg
r
ive

ful Women (p176). If youre driving towards

R

danubia and Lake Balaton region for 599/499 per

Hvz
Kapuvr
AUSTRIA

E65

ba
R Eger from Budapest, you might consider person single/double (sharing).
Srvr

ZALA

leaving Rte 3 at Gyngys and following the

Fertd

VAS

168 169
 circuitous Rte 24 through the Mtra Hills to Pardsasvr and then cutting eastward onto Serbian Ecclesiastical Art Collection, a treasure-trove of icons, vestments and other sacred objects
www.lonelyplanet.com

www.lonelyplanet.com
Eger. The regions whites Rieslings, Lenyka and Hrslevel are all worth trying. And in precious metals.
from Veszprm the Badacsony region along the northwestern shore of Lake Balaton, famed The Hungarian Open-Air Ethnographical Museum, 3km northwest of the centre and accessible by
for its crisp white Olaszrizling and unique Kknyel (Blue Stalk), is within easy driving bus from bay 7 at the station, is Hungarys most ambitious open-air museum. While plans
distance. ultimately call for some 300 farmhouses, churches, bell towers, mills and so on to be set up
in 10 regional units, so far only five have been built.

SZENTENDRE
Szentendre (St Andrew; population 22,700) is the gateway to the Danube Bend, the S-
Information Eating
Tourinform (%26-317 965; szentendre@tourinform.hu; Aranysrkny (Golden Dragon; %26-301 479; Alkot-
shaped curve in Hungarys mightiest river that begins just below Esztergom and twists
Dumtsa Jen utca 22; h9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri year- mny 1/a; mains from 2000Ft; hnoon-10pm) This place
for 20km before reaching the capital. As an art colony turned lucrative tourist centre,
round, plus 10am-2pm Sat & Sun mid-MarOct) may sound Chinese but it serves superb Hungarian and
Szentendre strikes many as a little too cutesy, and the town can be crowded and relatively
Austrian dishes at above-average prices.
expensive. Still, its an easy destination from Budapest, and the many art museums, galler-
Palapa (%26-302 418; Batthyny utca 4; mains 1000-
ies and Serbian Orthodox churches make the trip well worthwhile. Just try to avoid it on
summer weekends. Sights 1500Ft; h5pm-midnight Mon-Fri, noon-midnight Sat &
Right in the centre of F tr, the colourful heart of Szentendre surrounded by 18th- and Belgrade Cathedral (Belgrd Szkesegyhz; Alkot- Sun) The food at this colourful Mexican restaurant makes it
19th-century burghers houses, stands the Plague Cross (Pestis-kereszt), an iron cross decor- mny utca; adult/child incl art collection 300/150Ft; the perfect place for a change from heavy Hungarian fare.
ated with icons on a marble base, erected in 1763 as an ex-votive. Across the square to the h10am-6pm Tue-Sun Mar-Oct, 10am-4pm Fri-Sun Promenade (%26-312 626; Fut utca 4; mains 1500-
northeast is the Serbian Orthodox Blagovetenska Church, built in 1754. The church, with fine Jan & Feb) 2500Ft; hnoon-midnight) Vaulted ceilings, white-
baroque and rococo elements, hardly looks eastern from the outside (it was designed by Blagovetenska Church (%26-310 554; admission washed walls and a wonderful terrace overlooking the
Andrs Mayerhoffer), but once you step inside, the ornate iconostasis and elaborate 18th- 200Ft; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) Danube are all highlights here, one of Szentendres best
century furnishings give it away. restaurants serving Hungarian and international dishes.
If you descend Grg utca and turn south (right) onto Vastagh Gyrgy utca, youll reach Hungarian Open-Air Ethnographical Museum (Magyar
the entrance to the Margit Kovcs Ceramic Collection, Szentendres biggest draw and one of the few Szabadtri Nprajzi Mzeum; %26-502 500; Sztaravodai
museums here open all year. Kovcs (190277) was a ceramicist who combined Hungarian t 1; admission free Tue & Wed, adult/child Thu & Fri
600/400Ft, Sat & Sun 800/400Ft; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun
Sleeping
folk, religious and modern themes to create elongated, Gothic-like figures. Some of her Bkks (%26-312 021; Bkks part 16; s/d 8500/11,000Ft)
works are overly sentimental, but many are very powerful, especially the later ones in which Apr-Oct)
This small hotel has a touch of style about it and its 16 rooms
she became obsessed with mortality. Margit Kovcs Ceramic Collection (Kovcs Margit are cosy and warm; ask for one overlooking Bkks Stream.
Castle Hill (Vr-domb), which can be reached via Vralja lpcs, the narrow set of steps Kermiagyjtemny; %26-310 224; Vastagh Gyrgy utca
between F tr 8 and 9, was the site of a fortress in the Middle Ages, but all thats left of Centrum (%26-302 500; www.hotelcentrum.hu;
1; adult/child 600/300Ft; h9am-5pm Mar, 10am-6pm
it is the Parish Church of St John, from where you can enjoy views of the town. The red spire of Bogdnyi utca 15; s/d 9000/10,000Ft) A stones throw from
Apr-Oct)
Belgrade Cathedral, seat of the Serbian Orthodox bishop in Hungary and built in 1764, rises the Danube, this quaint pension occupies a well-renovated
from within a walled courtyard to the north. One of the church outbuildings contains the Parish Church of St John (Szent Jnos Plbniatemplom; house. Its half-dozen rooms are large and bright and filled
Templom tr; h10am-4pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct) with antique furniture.
Excursions

Excursions
Serbian Ecclesiastical Art Collection (Szerb Ilona (%26-313 599; Rkczi Ferenc utca 11; s/d
Egyhzmvszeti Gyjtemny; %26-312 399; Ptrirka 5000/6600Ft) Ilona is a perfect little pension with plenty
TRANSPORT utca 5; adult/child 400/200Ft; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun going for it superb central location, locked parking, inner
Distance from Budapest 19km Mar-Oct, 10am-4pm Fri-Sun Jan & Feb) courtyard for breakfast and six small but tidy rooms.
Direction North
SZENTENDRE

GDLL
Travel time 40 minutes by HV suburban train
Boat From May to August, one daily Mahart ferry plies the Danube to/from Vigad tr (Map p224) in Pest and
GDLL
Easily accessible on the HV suburban train, Gdll (population 32,400), which is roughly
Batthyny tr (Map p220) in Buda, departing at 9am and arriving at Szentendre at 10.40am (one way/return pronounced good-duh-ler, is an easy day trip from Budapest. The main attraction here
990/1485Ft). The return boat leaves at 5.45pm. The service dwindles to weekends only in April, late September and is the Royal Mansion completed in the 1760s, which is Hungarys largest baroque manor
October. From June to mid-September two extra boats depart from Budapest at 10.30am and 2pm bound for Szen- house. But the town of Gdll itself, full of lovely baroque buildings and monuments and
tendre, returning at 12.20pm and 5pm (one way 1400Ft); in the last half of May and September only the 10.30am home to the seminal Gdll Artists Colony (190120), is worth the trip.
and 5pm services run. The Royal Mansion, sometimes called the Grassalkovich Mansion after its commissioner,
Bus Buses from Pests rpd hd station (Map pp2267), which is on the M3 metro line, run to Szentendre at least Count Antal Grassalkovich (16941771), confidante of Empress Maria Theresa, was de-
once an hour throughout the day (241Ft, 30 minutes). signed by Andrs Mayerhoffer in 1741. After the formation of the Dual Monarchy in 1867,
the mansion (or palace) was enlarged as a summer retreat for Emperor Franz Joseph and
Car Rte 11 from Buda soon became the favoured residence of his consort, the much beloved Habsburg empress
HV Trains depart from Batthyny tr (Map p224) in Buda (160Ft, 40 minutes) every 10 to 20 minutes throughout and Hungarian queen, Elizabeth (183798), affectionately known as Sissi. Between the
the day. Remember that a yellow city bus/metro ticket is good only as far as the Bksmegyer stop on the way; youll two world wars, the regent, Admiral Mikls Horthy, also used it as a summer residence,
have to pay extra to get to Szentendre. Also, many HV trains run only as far as Bksmegyer, where you must cross but after the communists came to power, part of the mansion was used as Soviet bar-
the platform to board the train for Szentendre. The last train leaves Szentendre for Budapest at 11.10pm. racks, then subsequently as an old peoples home and temporary housing. The rest was
left to decay.
170 171
 Partial renovation of the mansion began Eating Sleeping
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in 1994, and today there are some 26 rooms TRANSPORT Kastlykert (%28-527 020; Szabadsg tr 4; starters Galria (%/fax 28-418 691; Szabadsg tr 8;
that open for public inspection as the Pal-
ace Museum on the ground and 1st floors. Distance from Budapest 27km 480-1990Ft, mains 1000-1840Ft; hnoon-11pm) Situated s/d with shared bathroom 6500/8700Ft, with shower
They have been restored (some would say in a lovely old baroque house opposite the mansion, the 8500/10,900Ft, with shower & toilet 9800/12,500Ft)
Direction Northeast
too heavily) to the period when the imper- Castle Garden is an upmarket choice for an evening meal. This five-room pension, which is 300m northeast of the
ial couple were in residence, and Franz Travel time 40 minutes by HV suburban train mansion, is in as central a position as youll find if you are
Mei Shi Lin (%28-412 658; Kossuth Lajos utca 33; rice &
Josephs suites (done up in manly greys and Bus Buses from Stadionok bus station (Map noodle dishes 450-1680Ft, mains 950-2150Ft; h11am- planning to spend the night in Gdll. Theres a range of
golds) and Sissis lavender-coloured private pp21819) in Pest serve Gdll (302Ft, 40 min- 10pm Sun-Thu, 11am-11pm Fri & Sat) This pleasant eatery options to choose from.
apartments are impressive. Check out the utes) about every half-hour throughout the day. The serves surprisingly good Chinese food. GATE College (%28- 410-200; gatekollegium@free
Decorative Hall, all gold tracery and chande- last bus back is just after 7.15pm weekdays (shortly
Pizza Palazzo (%28-420 688; Szabadsg tr 2; pizza & mail.hu; Pter Kroly utca 1; dm about 2000Ft) A short
liers, where chamber-music concerts are after 8pm on Saturday and Sunday).
pasta 750-1250Ft, mains 950-1590Ft; h11am-11pm) A distance east of the HV terminus, this college at St
held year-round but especially in late June Car Rte 3 from central Pest
popular pizzeria with some more-substantial main courses, Stephen University has dormitory accommodation from
and early July during the Palace Concerts HV Trains from rs vezr tere at the terminus of conveniently attached to the Szabadsg tr HV station. June to August.
Chamber Music Festival; the Queens Salon, the M2 metro link Budapest with Gdll (326Ft,
with a Romantic-style oil painting of Sissi
MARTONVSR
40 minutes, half-hourly) throughout the day. Make
patriotically repairing the coronation robe sure you get off at the Szabadsg tr stop, which is
of King Stephen with needle and thread; the third to last. The last train leaves for Budapest
and the Study Annexe, with a restored ceiling Lying almost exactly halfway between Budapest and the Central Transdanubian city of
from this stop just before 10.45pm. Szkesfehrvr and easily accessible by train, Martonvsr (population 5200) is the site of
painting and an 18th-century tapestry of the
huntress Diana. the former Brunswick Mansion, one of the loveliest summertime concert venues in Hungary. The
Several other recently opened rooms and mansion was built in 1775 for Count Antal Brunswick (Magyarised as Brunszvik), the patri-
buildings can be visited on a guided tour only at extra cost, including the baroque Palace arch of a family of liberal reformers and patrons of the arts; his daughter, Terz, established
Theatre in the southern wing; the Royal Hill Pavilion in the park, built in the 1760s; and the Hungarys first nursery school in Pest in 1828.
Royal Baths. Beethoven was a frequent visitor to the manse, and it is believed that Jozefin, Terzs
sister, was the inspiration for his Appassionata and Moonlight sonatas, which the great
Ludwig composed here.
Information Sights Brunswick Mansion was rebuilt in neo-Gothic style in 1875 and restored to its ivory
and sky-blue glory a century later. It now houses the Agricultural Research Institute of the
Tourinform (%28-415 402; godollo@tourinform.hu; Royal Mansion (Kirlyi Kastly; %28-410 124; www
Hungarian Academy of Sciences, but you can see at least part of the mansion by visiting
h10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-5pm Tue-Sun Nov- .kiralyikastely.hu; Szabadsg tr 1; adult/child/family the small Beethoven Memorial Museum to the left of the main entrance.
Mar) Just inside the entrance to the Royal Mansion. Has 1400/700/2800Ft; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 10am- A walk around the park grounds one of Hungarys first English parks to be laid out when
sample menus from restaurants around town. 5pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar) Cultural programmes take place these were all the rage in central Europe in the early 19th century is a pleasant way to
www.godollotourinform.hu Town website in English. here throughout the year. spend a warm summer afternoon. The highlight of the so-called Martonvsr Days (Marton-
vsr Napok) festival in July are the Beethoven Evenings (Beethoven-estjei) on Saturday
Excursions

Excursions
at 7pm, when concerts are held on the small island in the middle of the lake (reached by
a wooden footbridge).
The baroque Catholic church (1775), attached to the mansion but accessible from outside the
grounds, has frescoes by Johannes Cymbal. Theres also delightful the Nursery Museum in the
park, crammed with school-related materials as well as dolls and other toys.
GDLL

MARTONVSR
Information TRANSPORT
THIS IMAGE Agricultural Research Institute of the Hungarian
Academy of Sciences (www.mgki.hu) Includes some Distance from Budapest 33km
NOT AVAILABLE information about the mansion and museums. Direction Southwest
IN PICK & MIX Martonvsr Days (www.filharmonikusok.hu) Travel time 40 minutes by train
Car Rte 7 from southern Buda
Sights Train Dozens of trains between Dli train station
(Map p220) and Kelenfld train station (Map
Beethoven Memorial Museum (Beethoven Emlkmzeum;
pp2289) in Buda and Szkesfehrvr stop at
%22-569 500; adult/child/family 200/100/400Ft; Martonvsr (326Ft, 40 minutes, every 20 minutes)
h10am-noon & 2-4pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun every day. If you attend a concert in summer, you
Apr-Oct, 10am-noon & 2-4pm Tue-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat &
can easily make your way back to Budapest on the
Sun Nov-Mar)
last train, which departs just before 11.30pm.
Brunswick Mansion (Brunszvik-kastly; Brunszvik t 2)
172 173
 actually Cat is crawling with felines and is definitely
Sights pies as well as seating on the square to enjoy the summer
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www.lonelyplanet.com
Nursery Museum (vodamzeum; %22-569 518; adult/
child 250/120Ft; h10am-2pm Tue-Fri, 11am-6pm Sat & not the place for hyperallergenic travellers. Its on-site weather.
restaurant (soups 350-580Ft, mains 850-2050Ft; Bishops Palace (Pspki Palota; %88-426 088; Vr
Sun mid-Marmid-Oct, 10am-2pm Tue & Fri, 11am-3pm
utca 16; adult/child 500/250Ft; h10am-6pm May-Aug, Elefnt Bisztr (%88-329 695; vros tr 6; mains from
Sun mid-Octmid-Mar) hnoon-10pm Sun & Mon, noon-11pm Tue-Thu, noon- 1000Ft) From steaks to salads, Elefnt has a go at most
midnight Fri & Sat) serves the standard Hungarian csrda 10am-5pm Tue-Sun Sepmid-Oct)
Park (adult/child/family 200/100/400Ft; h8am-6pm Hungarian dishes and has outdoor seating.
(inn) dishes. Cathedral (Szkesegyhz; %88-328 038; Vr utca 18-20;
May-Oct, 8am-4pm Nov-Apr) vros (%88-326 790; Szabadsg tr 14; mains from
Postakocsi (%22-460 013; Fehrvri utca 1; soups & h10am-6pm May-Aug, 10am-5pm Sepmid-Oct)
6500Ft; 8am-midnight Jun-Aug, 10am-10pm Sep-May)
starters 280-880Ft, mains 930-2200Ft; h10am-10pm) Chapel of St George (Szent Gyrgy Kpolna; %88-426
Eating & Sleeping In the centre of town, this is a convenient place for 088; adult/child 100/70Ft; h10am-6pm May-Aug,
This restaurant attracts diners throughout the day with its
baroque setting, an extensive menu including fish dishes,
Macska (%22-460 127; Budai t 21; r per person lunch and has courtyard seating. Expect basic Hungarian 10am-5pm Tue-Sun Sepmid-Oct) and reliable cuisine.
3200Ft) A pension with six rooms whose name means fodder. Firewatch Tower (tztorony; %88-425 204; Vr utca 9;
adult/child 300/200Ft; h10am-6pm May-Oct, 10am-
5pm mid-MarApr) Sleeping
VESZPRM
Spreading over five hills between the northern and southern ranges of the Bakony Hills,
Gizella Chapel (Gizella kpolna; %88-426 088; Vr utca
18; adult/child 100/70Ft; h10am-6pm May-Aug, 10am-
Oliva (%88-403 875; www.oliva.hu; Buhim utca 14-16;
s/d 13,800/15,400Ft) This exquisite 11-room pension
Veszprm (population 62,900) has one of the most dramatic locations in Central Transdanu- 5pm Tue-Sun Sepmid-Oct) has stylish and modern rooms with enough space to be
bia. The walled castle district atop a plateau, once the favourite residence of Hungarys queens, Queen Gizella Museum (Gizella Kirlyn Mzeum; %88- comfortable and is only a short stroll to the Castle Hill
is now a living museum of baroque art and architecture, and its a delight to stroll through 426 088; Vr utca 35; adult/child 300/150Ft; h10am- district.
the Castle Hill districts single street, admiring the embarrassment of fine churches and civic 6pm May-Aug, 10am-5pm Sepmid-Oct) Pter Pl (%88-567 790; info@peterpal.hu; Dzsa
buildings. Whats more, Lake Balaton, the nations playground, is only 13km to the south and Gyrgy utca 3; s/d 6600/8900Ft) Only a short walk to the
Herend, home of Hungarys finest porcelain (p178) is the same distance to the northwest.
As you ascend Castle Hill (Vr-hegy) and its sole street, Vr utca, youll pass under Heroes Eating centre of town, Pter Pl is another fine choice with 14
simple yet stylish rooms, a pleasant garden, above an
Gate (Hsk-kapuja), an entrance built in 1936 from the stones of a 15th-century castle gate. Caf Piazza (%88-444 445; vros tr 4; pizzas 800Ft; average restaurant. The staff are very friendly and helpful
On the left is the Firewatch Tower, an architectural hybrid of Gothic, baroque and neoclassical h8.30am-10pm) A simple Veszprm pizzeria with big to guests.
styles, which can be climbed.
The U-shaped Bishops Palace, designed by Jakab Fellner of Tata in the mid-18th century, is
where the queens residence stood in the Middle Ages. It faces Szenthromsg tr, named
for the Trinity Column (1751) in the centre. EGER
Everyone loves Eger (population 58,300), and its immediately apparent why: the beautifully
Next to the Bishops Palace is the early Gothic Gizella Chapel, named after the wife of King
Stephen, who was crowned near here early in the 11th century. Inside the chapel are some preserved baroque architecture gives the town a relaxed, almost Mediterranean, feel; it is the
Byzantine-influenced 13th-century frescoes of the Apostles. The Queen Gizella Museum of re- home of the celebrated Egri Bikavr (Eger Bulls Blood) wine, known the world over; and it
ligious art is opposite. is flanked by two of the Northern Uplands most beautiful ranges of hills. Hungarians visit
The cathedral, dedicated to St Michael, is on the site of the first bishops palace. Parts of it Eger for those reasons and more, for it was here that Istvn Dob and his troops fended off
the Turks for the first time during the 170 years of occupation in 1552 (p177).
Excursions

Excursions
date from the beginning of the 11th century, but the cathedral has been rebuilt many times
since then. The early Gothic crypt is original, though. Beside the cathedral, the octagonal The best overview of the city can be had by climbing up the cobblestone lane from
foundation of the 13th-century Chapel of St George sits under a glass dome. Dzsa Gyrgy tr to Eger Castle, which was erected in the 13th century after the Mongol
From the rampart known as Worlds End at the end of Vr utca, you can gaze north to craggy invasion. Much of the castle is of mod-
Benedict Hill (Benedek-hegy) and the Sd Stream and west to the concrete viaduct (now ern construction, but you can still see
the foundations of 12th-century St Johns
St Stephens Valley Bridge) over the Betekints Valley. Below you to the north, in Margit TRANSPORT
VESZPRM

EGER
tr, are the ruins of the medieval Dominican Cathedral. Models and drawings in the Istvn
Convent of St Catherine and to the west what lit- Dob Museum, housed in the former Bishops Distance from Budapest 128km
tle remains of the 11th-century Veszprm Valley Palace (1470) in the castle grounds, show
Convent, whose erstwhile cloistered residents TRANSPORT how it once looked. On the ground floor, Direction Northeast
are said to have stitched Stephens crimson a statue of Dob takes pride of place in Her- Travel time Two hours by direct train
Distance from Budapest 112km oes Hall. The 19th-century building on the
silk coronation robe early in the 11th cen- Bus Buses link Eger with Budapest (1570Ft, 2
tury. The statues of King Stephen and Queen Gizella Direction Southwest northwestern side of the courtyard houses hours) hourly via the high-speed M3.
at Worlds End were erected in 1938 to mark Travel time Two hours by train the Eger Art Gallery, with several works by
Car Rte 3 from central Pest to Kerecsend and then
the 900th anniversary of Stephens death. Mihly Munkcsy.
Bus Connections with Budapest (1450Ft, 2 hours) Rte 25 to Eger
Beneath the castle are casemates hewn from
are excellent, with between half-hourly and hourly solid rock, which you are able to tour with Train Eger is on a minor line linking Putnok and
Information
departures. a Hungarian-speaking guide included in Fzesabony; you usually have to change at the latter
Car Rte M7 to Szkesfehrvr and Rte 8 to Veszprm the admission fee (English-language guide for Budapest (1624Ft). There are up to seven direct
Tourinform (%88-404 548; veszprem@tourinform.hu; 600Ft extra). Other exhibits, including the trains a day to and from Budapests Keleti train sta-
Train Three lines meet at Veszprm. Some seven
Vr utca 4; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat, 10am- Waxworks and Minting Exhibit cost extra. You tion (Map pp21819) that do not require a change
trains a day link Budapest with Veszprm (1212Ft,
4pm Sun Jun-Aug, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri Sep-May) can still tour the castle grounds on Monday, (two hours).
two hours) via Szkesfehrvr.
www.veszprem.net Useful town website partly in English. when all the other exhibits are closed.
174 175
 Back in town, you can begin a walking tour of the city at Eger Cathedral, a neoclassical edral, walk south along Trinitrius utca to
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monolith designed in 1836 by Jzsef Hild. Despite the cathedrals size and ornate altars,
the interior is surprisingly light and airy.
Bartk Bla tr and then west down Kirly
utca to Szpasszony-vlgy utca. Veer to the
THE SIEGE OF EGER
Directly opposite the cathedral is the sprawling Zopf-style Lyceum dating from 1765. The left as you descend the hill, passing the The story of the Turkish attempt to take Eger Castle
20,000-volume library on the 1st floor of the south wing contains hundreds of priceless large Talizmn restaurant, and head into is the stuff of legend. Under the command of Istvn
manuscripts and codices. The ceiling fresco (1778) here is a trompe lil masterpiece depict- the valley, where youll find dozens of cel- Dob, a mixed bag of 2000 soldiers held out against
ing the Counter-Reformations Council of Trent (154563) and a lightning bolt setting lars. Alternatively take the mini train from more than 100,000 Turks for a month in 1552. As
heretical manuscripts ablaze. The Astronomy Museum on the 6th floor of the east wing contains Dob Istvn tr to the valleys entrance in every Hungarian kid in short trousers can tell you,
18th-century astronomical equipment and an observatory; climb three more floors up to the season. the women of Eger played a crucial role in the battle,
observation deck for a great view of the city and to try out the camera obscura, the eye of Eger, This is the place to sample Bulls Blood pouring boiling oil and pitch on the invaders from the
designed in 1776 to spy on the town and to entertain townspeople. one of very few reds produced in Eger or ramparts. A painting by Bertalan Szkely called The
On the southern side of central Dob Istvn tr stands the Minorite church, built in 1771 any of the whites: Lenyka, Olaszrizling Women of Eger in the castles art gallery pays tribute
and one of the most glorious baroque buildings in the world. The altarpiece of the Virgin and Hrslevel from nearby Debr. The to these brave ladies.
Mary and St Anthony of Padua was completed by Johann Kracker, the Bohemian painter choice of wine cellars can be a bit daunt- Also significant was Egers wine. If were to
who also did the fire-and-brimstone ceiling fresco in the Lyceum library. Statues of Istvn ing and their characters can change, so believe the tale, Dob sustained his soldiers with
Dob and his comrades-in-arms routing the Turks in 1552 fill the square in front of the walk around and have a look yourself. the ruby-red vintage. When they fought on with
church. Nos 16, 17, 29 and 48 are always popular; increased vigour and stained beards rumours
To the north of the square is the 40m-high minaret topped with a cross. Only non- for schmaltzy Gypsy music, try No 32 or began to circulate among the Turks that the defend-
claustrophobes will want to brave the 97 narrow spiral steps to the top. To the south of 42. But if youre interested in good wine, ers were gaining strength by drinking the blood of
Dob Istvn tr is Kossuth Lajos utca, a tree-lined street with dozens of architectural visit cellars Nos 5, 18 and 31. Be careful bulls. Thus was born the name and brand Bikavr
gems. The former Orthodox synagogue, built in 1893, is now a furniture store backing onto though; those 100mL glasses (50Ft to 80Ft) (Bulls Blood).
a shopping mall. (A neoclassical synagogue dating from 1845 and now partly renovated is go down easily. Hours are erratic, but a Gza Grdonyis Eclipse of the Crescent Moon
around the corner at Dr Hibay Kroly utca 7.) Youll pass several baroque and Eclectic few cellars are sure to be open till the early (1901), which describes the siege and is required
buildings, including the county hall, with a wrought-iron grid above the main door of Faith, evening. The taxi fare back to Eger centre reading for many young Hungarians, can be found
Hope and Charity by Henrik Fazola, a Rhinelander who settled in Eger in the mid-18th is about 1000Ft. in English translation (Corvina) in the bookshops of
century. Walk down the passageway, and youll see more of his magnificent work two Budapest.
baroque wrought-iron gates. The one on the right shows the seal of Heves County and
has a comical figure on its handle. The more graceful gate on the left is decorated with Information
grapes. The wrought-iron balcony and window grilles of the rococo Provosts Palace were Tourinform (%36-517 715; eger@tourinform.hu;
also done by Fazola. Minorite church (Minorita templom; %36-312 744;
Bajcsy-Zsilinszky utca 9; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Dob Istvn tr 6; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)
Dont miss visiting the wine cellars of the evocatively named Valley of the Beautiful Women Sat & Sun mid-Junmid-Sep, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm
(Szpasszony-vlgy), which is southwest of the centre. From the western end of the cath- Sat mid-Sepmid-Jun) Ask for the useful Insight to Eger Minting Exhibit (adult/child 240/120Ft)
magazine available in a number of languages. Orthodox synagogue (Ortodox zsinagga; Kossuth Lajos
utca 17)

Sights
Excursions

Excursions
Provosts Palace (Kisprposti palota; Kossuth Lajos utca 4)
Waxworks (adult/child 350/250Ft)
Astronomy Museum (adult/student 500/350Ft)
Casemates (h9am-5pm)
County hall (megyehza; Kossuth Lajos utca 9) Eating
EGER

EGER
Eger Castle (Egri Vr; %36-312 744; www.div.iif.hu; Vr Elefanto (%36-411 031; Katona Istvn tr 2; mains
1; adult/child castle & grounds 1000/500Ft, grounds only 1000-2000Ft; hnoon-midnight) Perched high above
400/200Ft, underground passageways 300Ft; h8am- the market, this is a great place, with a nonsmoking
THIS IMAGE 8pm Tue-Sun Apr-Aug, 8am-7pm Tue-Sun Sep, 8am-6pm interior and covered balcony for alfresco dining when the
NOT AVAILABLE Tue-Sun Oct & Mar, 8am-5pm Tue-Sun Nov-Feb) weathers right.

IN PICK & MIX Eger Cathedral (Egri Fszkesegyhz; Pyrker Jnos tr 1;

h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 1-5pm Sun)
Palatscintavr (%36-413 986; Dob utca 9; mains
around 1200Ft) This restaurant sports a contemporary
Istvn Dob Museum (h9am-5pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, art theme and a veg-heavy menu. Palacsinta (Hungar-
9am-3pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar) ian-style pancakes) are served with an abundance of fresh
vegetables and range in flavour from Asian to Italian and
Lyceum (Lceum; %36-520 400; Eszterhzy tr 1; library back again.
adult/student 500/350Ft; h9.30am-3.30pm Tue-Sun
Apr-Sep, 9.30am-1pm Sat & Sun Oct-Mar) Szntfer (%36-517 298; Brdy utca 3; mains around
1000Ft; h8am-10pm) With farming equipment and
Minaret (h36-410 233; Knzich Kroly utca; admission cooking utensils hanging from its walls and hearty peasant
200Ft; h9am-6pm Apr-Oct) cuisine filling its menu, Szntfer oozes a rural-rustic
Mini train (one way 450Ft; h10am-6pm Apr-Oct) atmosphere.
176 177
 Lonely Planet Publications
www.lonelyplanet.com

HEREND PORCELAIN
Herend porcelain is among the finest of all goods produced in Hungary and makes a wonderful gift or memento. The
stuff also has a long and fascinating pedigree.
A terracotta factory was set up in Herend (population 3330) in 1826 and began producing porcelain 13 years later
under Mr Farkashzi Fischer. Initially it specialised in copying and replacing the nobles broken chinaware settings
imported from Asia, and youll see some pretty kooky 19th-century interpretations of Japanese art and Chinese faces
on display at the Porcelnium (%523 262; www.porcelanium.com; Kossuth Lajos utca 140; adult/child/family
1500/500/3100Ft; h9am-5.30pm Apr-Oct daily, 9am-4.30pm Tue-Sat Nov-Mar), a museum that displays the most
prized pieces of the rich Herend collection and a mini-factory where you can witness first-hand how ugly clumps of
clay become delicate porcelain.
The factory soon began producing its own patterns; many, like the Rothschild bird and petites roses, were inspired by
Meissen and Svres designs from Germany and France. The popular Victoria pattern of butterflies and wild flowers was
designed for Queen Victoria after she admired a display of Herend pieces at the Great Exhibition in London in 1851.
To avoid bankruptcy in the 1870s, the Herend factory began mass production; tastes ran from kitschy pastoral and
hunting scenes to the animal figurines with the distinctive scalelike triangle patterns still popular today. In 1993, 75%
of the factory was purchased by its 1500 workers and became one of the first companies in Hungary privatised through
an employee stock-ownership plan. The state owns the other 25%.
From Veszprm there is a bus to Herend at least every 30 minutes (203Ft, 20 minutes).

Sleeping is an easy walk to the centre of town but far enough away
to escape any noise in summer.
Minaret (%36-410 233; Knzich Kroly utca 4; s/d
Senator Hz (%36-320 466; www.senatorhaz.hu; Dob
35/45) In the shadow of the minaret is this family-run
Istvn tr 11; s/d 52/72) Arguably the finest small hotel in
hotel, with 42 good-sized rooms, a fine restaurant and a
provincial Hungary, Senator House has 11 warm and cosy
central location. rooms on the upper two floors of this delightful 18th-cen-
Romantik (%36-310 456; www.romantikhotel.hu; Csky tury inn on Egers main square. Its ground floor is shared
Sndor utca 26; s/d 12,000/15,500Ft) This very friendly and between a quality restaurant and a reception that could
homey hotel with a dozen rooms and a pretty back garden easily moonlight as a history museum.
Excursions
EGER

Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
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178 179
 Lonely Planet Publications

Transport 180
Air 180
Bicycle 181
Boat 181
Bus 182
Car & Motorcycle 183
Metro & HV 184
Taxi 184
Train 185
Tram 185
Trolleybus 186
Practicalities 186
Accommodation 186
Business Hours 186
Children 186
Climate 186
Courses 187
Customs 187
Disabled Travellers 187
Discount Cards 187
Electricity 188
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Holidays 189
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Maps 190
Medical Services 190
Money 191
Newspapers & Magazines 191
Pharmacies 191
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Directory
Post 192
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Taxes & Refunds 193
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Time 194
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Visas 195
Women Travellers 195
Work 196
178
 Directory
international airlines use Terminal 2B,

www.lonelyplanet.com
which is next door and within easy walk- BOOKINGS ONLINE
ing distance. Malv has a ticketing desk
at Terminal 2A (%296 7211; h5am-11pm) Flights, tours and train tickets can be booked online at
and another one at Terminal 2B (%296 5767; www.lonelyplanet.com/travel_services.
h6am-8.30pm); at the latter youll also
TRANSPORT CSA Czech Airlines (OK; %318 3045; www.czech-airlines
.com; hub Prague)
find a left-luggage office (per item per 1/3/6hr
350/1050/1400Ft, per day/week 2200/6500Ft; that allow pedestrian crossings also allow
h24hr). The super-discount European car-
AIR El Al (LY; %266 2970; www.elal.com; hub Tel Aviv)
riers, recent arrivals to Budapest, now use
cyclists through.
Budapest can be reached directly from des- EgyptAir (MS; %266 4300; www.egyptair.com.eg; hub the refurbished Terminal 1.
tinations around the world, including the Cairo)
USA, but its most important gateways are Finnair (AY; %317 4022; www.finnair.com; hub Helsinki)
The Airport Minibus Service (%296 8555; mini
bus@bud.hu; one way/return 2300/3900Ft)
BOAT
in Continental Europe, especially now that
what Hungarians call the fapados (wooden KLM Royal Dutch Airlines (KL; %373 7737; www.klm ferries passengers in eight-seater vans from Local
.com; hub Amsterdam) all three of the airports terminals directly Between May and mid-September passen-
bench) airlines the super discount carriers to their hotel, hostel or residence. Tickets ger ferries run by BKV (%369 1359; www
such as Air Berlin (www.airberlin.com), EasyJet LOT Polish Airlines (LO; %317 2444; www.lot.com; hub .bkv.hu) depart from IX Borros tr (Map
are available at a clearly marked desk in the
(www.easyjet.com), SkyEurope (www.skyeu Warsaw) pp2289) beside Petfi Bridge between
arrival halls. You need to book your jour-
rope.com) and Wizzair (www.wizzair.com) Lufthansa (LH; %266 4511; www.lufthansa.com; hub ney to the airport 24 hours in advance but six and eight times daily and head for III
have arrived, bringing the cost of flying be- Frankfurt) remember that, with up to seven pick-ups Rmaifrd and Csillaghegy in buda, a
tween Budapest and dozens of European en route, this can be a nerve-wracking way two-hour trip with 10 stops along the way.
cities to a level that fits most travellers SAS (SK; %266 2633; www.scandinavian.net; hub
Copenhagen) to go if youre running late. Tickets (adult/child 600/300Ft from end to
budget. Fares vary greatly depending on If you want to take a taxi, call one of the end or between 500/250Ft and 200/150Ft
the destination, availability and the time of Tarom Romanian Airlines (RO; %235 0809; www.tarom for intermediate stops) are sold on board.
companies listed on p185 with a mobile or
the flight. .ro; hub Bucharest) The ferry stop closest to the Castle District
from a public phone at arrivals (dispatchers
Note that there are no scheduled flights Turkish Airlines (TK; %266 4291; www.turkishairlines understand English) and expect to pay about is I Batthyny tr, and V Petfi tr is not
within Hungary. .com; hub Istanbul) 5000Ft. If you book in advance, Tele 5 (%355 far from Vrsmarty tr. Transporting a
5555) charges 3490Ft between the airport bicycle costs 500Ft.
Airlines Airports
and Pest and 3990Ft for Buda. Its taxis are
just down the road, awaiting your call.
National carrier, Malv Hungarian Airlines (MA;
%in Hungary 06-40 212 121, from abroad Budapests Ferihegy International Airport (%296 The cheapest but most time-consuming International
36-1 235 3888; www.malev.hu), flies nonstop 7000; www.bud.hu), 24km southeast of the way to get into town from Ferihegy is to take A hydrofoil service on the Danube between
or to Budapest via Prague, Madrid or Am- city centre, has two modern terminals side the airport bus (look for the stop marked Budapest and Vienna (5 to 6 hours,
sterdam from North America, the Middle by side and an older one about 5km to the BKV Plusz Reptr Busz on the pavement 282km) operates daily from early April to
East and almost 60 cities in continental Eur- west. between terminals 2A and 2B), which ter- October and allows passengers to disembark
ope and the UK. It also flies to/from Beijing, Malv flights and, for the most part, those minates at the Kbnya-Kispest metro sta- at Bratislava with advance notice. One-way/
Shanghai and Guangzhou in China. of its 18 or so code-share partners arrive tion. From there take the M3 metro into the return adult fares for Vienna are 79/99 and
The main Malv Customer Service Centre (Map and depart from Terminal 2A. Most other centre. The total cost is 320Ft. for Bratislava 69/89. Students with ISIC

Directory
pp21819; % 235 3222; www.malev.hu; cards pay 67/84 to Vienna and 59/76 to
XIII Vci t 26; h 8.30am-7pm Mon- Bratislava and children under six go free.
Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun; mM3 Nyugati WARNING
BICYCLE Taking along a bicycle costs 18 each way.
plyaudvar) is just northwest of Nyugati More and more cyclists are seen on the In Budapest, ferries arrive and depart
train station. Malv also has ticket-issuing The information in this section is particularly vulner- streets and avenues of Budapest these days, from the International Ferry Pier (Nemzetkzi

TRANSPORT
desks at Ferihegy airport (right). able to change: prices for international travel are taking advantage of the growing network hajlloms; Map p224; V Belgrd rakpart),
Other major carriers serving Budapest: volatile, routes are introduced and cancelled, sched- of bike paths. The main roads in the city which is between Elizabeth and Independ-
ules change, special deals come and go, and rules might be a bit too busy and nerve-wracking ence Bridges on the Pest side. In Vienna,
Aeroflot (SU; %318 5955; www.aeroflot.com; hub and visa requirements are amended. In addition, the to make for enjoyable cycling but the side the boat docks at the Reichsbrcke pier
Moscow) travel industry is highly competitive and there are streets are fine, and there are some areas near Mexikoplatz.
Air Canada (AC; %266 8435; www.aircanada.com; hub many lurks and perks. (City Park, Margaret Island etc) where cyc- In April and from mid-September to Oc-
Toronto) Get opinions, quotes and advice from as many air- ling is positively ideal. See p138 for ideas on tober there is a daily sailing at 9am from
Air France (AF; %483 8800; www.airfrance.com; hub Paris) lines and travel agents as possible before you part with where to cycle, and information on where both Budapest and Vienna. From May to
your hard-earned cash, and double-check you under- to rent bikes. mid-September the boats leave both of
Alitalia (AZ; %483 2170; www.alitalia.it; hub Rome) Cyclists may have problems crossing Hun- these cities at 8am.
stand how a fare (and any ticket you may buy) works.
Austrian Airlines (OS; %327 9080; www.aua.com; hub The details given in this chapter should be regarded as garian border stations connected to main For information, tickets and reservations
Vienna) pointers and are not a substitute for your own careful, roads since bicycles are banned on motor- contact Mahart PassNave (Map p224; %484
British Airways (BA; %411 5555; www.ba.com; hub up-to-date research into the current situation. ways and national highways with single-digit 4013; www.mahartpassnave.hu; V Belgrd
London) route numbers. In general, border crossings rakpart; h8am-6pm).
180 181
 Long-Distance & International you leave. It is usually inexpensive and valid
www.lonelyplanet.com

www.lonelyplanet.com
GETTING AROUND TOWN All international buses and some domestic for one year only. Remember that an IDP
ones (especially to/from north and north- is not valid unless accompanied by your
Budapest has an ageing but safe, efficient and inexpensive public transport system that will never have you waiting original drivers licence.
more than five or 10 minutes for any conveyance. There are five types of vehicles in general use: metro trains on three central Hungary) arrive at and depart from
Pests Npliget bus station (Map pp2289; %219 Third-party liability insurance is com-
city lines; green HV trains on four suburban lines; blue buses; yellow trams and red trolleybuses. All are run by BKV pulsory in Hungary. If your car is registered
(Budapest Transport Company; %342 2335, 06-80 406 688; www.bkv.hu). 8000; IX lli t 131; mM3 Npliget). The
international ticket office (h6am-6pm Mon-Fri in the EU, it is assumed you have it. Other
Anyone planning to travel extensively by public transport in Budapest should buy a copy of the invaluable Budapesti motorists must show a Green Card or they
Kzlekedsi Hlzata Trkpe (Budapest Transport Network Map; 380Ft) available at most metro ticket booths. Sep-May, 6pm-8pm Mon-Fri Jun-Aug, 6am-
4pm Sat & Sun) is upstairs. Eurolines (%219 will have to buy insurance at the border.
Daytime public transport in Budapest runs from about 4am to between 9pm and 11.30pm, depending on the line.
From 11.30pm to 4am some 30 night buses (always with three digits and beginning with 9) operate every 10 to 60 8021; www.eurolines.com), an association of
minutes, again depending on the line. more than 30 European bus companies that
link Budapest with points abroad as close
Hire
Fares & Travel Passes In general, you must be at least 21 years old
as Bratislava and as far as London, is rep- and have had your licence for at least a year
To ride the metro, trams, trolleybuses, buses and the HV (as far as the city limits, which is the Bksmegyer stop north resented here as is its Hungarian associate, to rent a car. Drivers under 25 sometimes
of buda) you must have a valid ticket, which you can buy at kiosks, newsstands or metro entrances. Children up to Volnbusz (%382 0888; www.volanbusz.hu). have to pay a surcharge.
the age of six travel free when accompanied by an adult. Bicycles can only be transported on the HV, all Mahart boats Theres a left-luggage office (per piece per day All the international car-rental firms
and on the Cog and Childrens Railways. 190Ft; h6am-9pm) downstairs. have offices in Budapest but dont expect
The basic fare for all forms of transport is 185Ft (1665/3145Ft for a block of 10/20 tickets), allowing you to travel as Stadionok bus station (Map pp21819; %251 many bargains. An Opel Corsa from Avis
far as you like on the same metro, bus, trolleybus or tram line without changing. A ticket allowing unlimited stations 0125; XIV Hungria krt 48-52; mM3 (Map p224; %318 4158; www.avis.hu in
with one change within 1 hours costs 320Ft. Stadionok) serves cities and towns to the Hungarian; V Szervita tr 8; h9am-6pm
On the metro exclusively, the base fare drops to 130Ft if you are just going three stops within 30 minutes. For 200Ft east of Budapest. The ticket office (h6am- Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat; m 1/2/3 Dek
you can travel five stops and transfer at Dek Ferenc tr to one of the other two metro lines within one hour. Unlimited 6pm Mon-Fri, 6am-4pm Sat & Sun) as Ferenc tr), for example, costs 33/198 per
stations travelled with one change within one hour costs 300Ft. well as the left-luggage office (per piece 200Ft; day/week plus 0.33 per kilometre and 23
You must always travel in one continuous direction on any ticket; return trips are not allowed. Tickets have to be h6am-7pm) are on the ground floor. Buses CDW and theft protection insurance. The
validated in machines at metro entrances and aboard other vehicles inspectors will fine you for not validating your to southwest Hungary use Etele tr bus station same car with unlimited kilometres and in-
ticket. (Map pp2289; %382 4900; XI Etele tr; surance costs from 99 per day or 88 per
Life will most likely be much simpler if you buy a travel pass. Passes are valid on all trams, buses, trolleybuses, HV h6am-6pm; gred-numbered 7) in Buda. weekend. The 25% FA (value-added tax)
(within the city limits) and metro lines, and you dont have to worry about validating your ticket each time you get on. The rpd Bridge bus station (Map pp2267; doesnt apply to nonresidents paying with
The most central places to buy them are ticket offices at the Dek Ferenc tr metro station (Map p224), the Nyugati %329 1450; XIII Rbert Kroly krt; foreign currency or by credit card.
plyaudvar metro station (Map p222) and the Dli plyaudvar metro station (Map p220), all of which are open from hticket office 6am-8pm; mM3 rpd One of the cheapest, most reliable outfits
6am to 8pm daily. hd), on the Pest side of rpd Bridge, is for car hire is Anselport (%362 6080, 06-20
A one-day pass is poor value at 1150Ft, but the three-day pass (touristajegy, or tourist ticket) for 2500Ft and seven- the place to catch buses for the Danube 945 0279; www.anselport.hu; XXII V utca 22;
day pass (hetijegy, or one week) for 3400Ft are worthwhile for most people. Youll need a photo for the fortnightly/ Bend and parts of northern Hungary. The
h9am-6pm; g14 or 114) in south Buda.
monthly passes (4500/6900Ft). All but the monthly travel passes are valid from midnight to midnight, so buy them in small Szna tr bus station (Map pp21819; A Suzuki Swift is 19 to 43 per day, includ-
advance and specify the date(s) you want. %201 3688; I Szna tr 1/a; hticket of- ing unlimited kilometres and insurance, de-
Travelling black (ie without a valid ticket or pass) is risky; with increased surveillance (especially in the metro), fice 6.30am-4.30pm; mM3 Moszkva tr) pending on the length of rental (one day to
theres an excellent chance youll get caught. (NB: Tickets are always checked by a conductor on the HV.) The on-the- in Buda handles some traffic to and from three weeks). Another good bet is Fox Autorent
spot fine is 2500Ft, which rises to 7000Ft if you pay at the BKV office (Map p222; %461 6800; VII Akcfa utca 22; the Pilis Hills and towns northwest of the
Directory

Directory
(%382 9000; www.fox-autorent.com; XXII
h6am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1.45pm Sat; mM2 Blaha Lujza tr) up to 30 days later and 14,000Ft after that. capital, with a half-dozen departures to Nagyttnyi t 48-50; h8am-8pm; g3,
Esztergom as an alternative to the rpd 14 or 114), which charges from 46/230 per
Bridge bus station. day/week for a Fiat Seicento, 55/320 for
BUS 7 Cuts across a large swathe of central Pest from XIV a Smart car and 59/349 for a Fiat Punto,
TRANSPORT

TRANSPORT
Bosnyk tr and down VII Rkczi t before crossing kilometres and insurance included.
Local Elizabeth Bridge to Kelenfld train station in southern CAR & MOTORCYCLE
An extensive system of almost 200 buses Buda (the red-numbered 7 follows the same route with Driving in Budapest, especially during the
serves greater Budapest. On certain bus limited stops). daytime, can be a nightmare: ongoing road Parking
lines the same number bus may have a black 86 Runs the length of Buda from XI Kosztolnyi Dezs works reduce traffic to a snails pace, there Parking on the street in Budapest currently
or a red number. In such cases, the red- tr to buda. are more serious accidents than fender- costs between 120Ft and 400Ft between
numbered one is an express, which makes benders, and parking spots are difficult to 8am and 6pm Monday to Friday and 8am
limited stops and is, of course, faster. 105 Goes from V Dek Ferenc tr to XII Apor Vilmos tr find. The public-transport system is good and noon Saturday. There are 24-hour cov-
Some buses (always shown with a blue in central Buda. and cheap. Try to use it. ered car parks charging up to 500/5000Ft
line on a Budapest map or atlas) that you Night bus 906 Follows tram 6s route along the Big Foreign driving licences are valid for one per hour/day at V Vci utca 25 (below the
might find useful include the following: Ring Road. year after entering Hungary but if you dont Millennium shopping centre; Map p224);
4 Runs from northern Pest via VI Hsk tere to V Dek Night bus 907 Traces an enormously long route from hold a European driving licence, obtain an V Szervita tr 8 (Map p224); V Aranykz
Ferenc tr (the red 4 follows the same route but crosses the M2 rs vezr tere metro stop in Pest to Kelenfld train International Driving Permit (IDP) from utca 4-6 (Map p224) in the Inner Town;
over Chain Bridge into central Buda). station in Buda. your local automobile association before and at VII Nyr utca 20 (Map p222).
182 183
 Illegally parked cars are not normally
METRO & HV 300Ft, the per-kilometre charge 240Ft and Budapests train stations are generally
www.lonelyplanet.com

www.lonelyplanet.com
towed in Budapest these days but booted. the waiting fee 60Ft. From 10pm to 6am the pretty dismal places, with some unsavoury-
Budapest has three underground metro
If you are trying to trace a vehicle you equivalent fees are 420/330/80Ft. looking characters hanging about day and
lines that converge (only) at V Dek Fer-
believe has been towed, ring %383 0700 Budapest residents local or foreign night, but all have some amenities. The
enc tr: the little yellow (or Millennium)
or %383 0770. To have a boot removed, rarely flag down taxis in the street. They left-luggage offices (normal/large piece per 6hr
line designated M1 that runs from Vrs-
which is going to cost you 15,000Ft, ring the almost always ring for them, and fares 150/300Ft, per day 300/600Ft) at Keleti station
marty tr to Mexiki t in Pest; the red M2
telephone number on the sticker placed on are actually cheaper if you book over the (h24hr) is next to platform 6. At Nyugati sta-
line from Dli train station in Buda to rs
the windscreen or %313 0810. phone. Make sure you know the number tion (h4am-midnight) and at the Dli station
vezr tere in Pest; and the blue M3 line
of the landline phone youre calling from (h3.30am-11.30pm) they are beside the in-
from jpest-Kzpont to Kbnya-Kispest
as thats how they establish your address formation and ticketing hall. Youll also find
Road Rules in Pest. A possible source of confusion on
the M1 is that one station is called Vrs-
(though you can, of course, call from a mo- post offices and grocery stores that are open
You must drive on the right. Speed limits for bile phone, too). late or even round the clock in the stations.
cars and motorcycles are consistent across marty tr and another, five stops later, is
The following are the telephone numbers The three main stations are on metro
the country and strictly enforced: 50km/h Vrsmarty utca.
of reliable taxi firms. lines, and night buses serve them when the
in built-up areas (from the town sign as The HV suburban train line, which runs
Buda %233 3333 metro is closed. If you need to take a taxi,
you enter to the same sign with a red line on four lines (north from Batthyny tr in
avoid the sharks hovering around the sta-
through it as you leave); 90km/h on second- Buda via buda and Aquincum to Szenten- City %211 1111 tions. At Dli, cross over to I Alkots utca
ary and tertiary roads; 110km/h on most dre, south to both Csepel and Rckeve and F %222 2222 and hail one there. At Keleti station, get
highways/dual carriageways; and 130km/h east to Gdll), is almost like an additional
Rdi %377 7777 into one of the legal cabs at the rank on
on motorways. Exceeding the limit will earn above-ground metro line.
VIII Kerepesi t, just south of the terminal.
a fine of between 5000Ft and 30,000Ft, to be The metro is the fastest but obviously Tele 5 %355 5555 Nyugati tr is a major intersection, so youll
paid by postal cheque or at post offices. the least scenic way to go. All three lines
have no problem finding a legitimate taxi
The use of seat belts in the front (and in run from 4.30am and begin their last jour-
there.
the back if fitted outside built-up areas) ney at 11.10pm. See the boxed text on page TRAIN You can buy tickets at the three inter-
is compulsory in Hungary, but this rule is p182 for fares and passes. Magyar llamvasutak (Hungarian State Rail- national train stations in Budapest, but the
often ignored. Motorcyclists must wear ways; www.mav.hu in Hungarian), or queues are often long, passengers are in a
helmets, a law strictly enforced. Another MV, links up with the European rail net- hurry, and sales staff at the stations are not
law taken very seriously indeed is the one TAXI work in all directions, running trains as far the most patient in the city. Its easier at the
requiring all drivers to use their headlights Taxis in Budapest are not expensive com- as London (via Munich and Paris), Paris MV international information & ticket centre (Map
throughout the day outside built-up areas. pared to other European countries, but (via Munich), Stockholm (via Hamburg p222; %461 5500, 352 2800; VI Andrssy
Motorcycles must illuminate headlights at with such an excellent public transport net- and Copenhagen), Moscow, Rome and Is- t 35; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri Apr-Sep, 9am-
all times everywhere. Using a mobile phone work available, you dont really have to use tanbul (via Belgrade). 5pm Mon-Fri Oct-Mar; mM1 Opera). For
while driving is prohibited in Hungary but them very often. Weve heard from many Budapest has three main train stations. fares, check www.elvira.hu.
this law is universally ignored. readers who were grossly overcharged and Most international trains arrive and depart
There is virtually a 100% ban on alcohol even threatened by taxi drivers in Budapest, from Keleti train station (Eastern train station;
when driving this is very strictly enforced.
Its not much fun while on holiday, but youll
so taking a taxi in this city should be ap-
proached with a certain amount of caution.
Map pp21819; %313 6835; VIII Kerepesi
t 2-6; mM3 Keleti plyaudvar); trains to
TRAM
Trams are often faster than buses in Buda-
have to follow the lead of Hungarians and However, the reputable firms listed here certain destinations in the east (eg Romania) pest and usually more pleasant for sightsee-
Directory

Directory
take turns with a companion in abstaining have caught on to the concept of customer leave from Nyugati train station (Western train ing. The most important tram lines (always
at meals and other times. If you are found service, and they take complaints very seri- station; Map p222; %349 0115; VI Terz marked with red lines on a Budapest map
to have even 0.001% of alcohol in the blood, ously nowadays. krt 55-57; mM3 Nyugati plyaudvar), or atlas) are the following:
youll be fined up to 30,000Ft on the spot. Avoid taxis with no name on the door while Dli train station (Southern train station;
and only a removable taxi light-box on Map p220; %375 6293, 355 8657; I Krisztina 2 & 2/a Scenic trams that travel along the Pest side of
If the level is high, you will be arrested and
the Danube as far as V Jszai Mari tr
TRANSPORT

TRANSPORT
your licence almost certainly taken away. In the roof; these are just guys with cars and krt 37; mM2 Dli plyaudvar) handles
the event of an accident, the drinking party the ones most likely to rip you off. Never trains to some destinations in the south (eg 4 & 6 Extremely useful trams that start at XI Fehrvri t
is automatically regarded as guilty. get into a cab that does not have a yellow Osijek in Croatia and Sarajevo in Bosnia). and XI Mricz Zsigmond krtr in south Buda respectively
Assistance and/or advice for motorists licence plate and an identification badge These are not hard-and-fast rules, so always and follow the entire length of the Big Ring Road in Pest
is available from the Hungarian Automobile Club displayed on the dashboard (as required by make sure you check which station the train before terminating at II Moszkva tr in Buda
(Magyar Autklub; Map pp21819; %212 law), the logo of one of the reputable taxi leaves from when you buy a ticket. 18 Runs from southern Buda along XI Bartk Bla t
2821, 24hr helpline %345 1755; II Rmer firms listed here on the side doors, and a The handful of secondary train stations through the Tabn to II Moszkva tr
Flris utca 4/a; j4 or 6) off Margit krt table of fares posted prominently. are of little importance to long-distance
19 Covers part of the same route as 18, but then runs
near Margaret Bridge. Motorists anywhere Not all taxi meters are set at the same travellers. Occasionally, though, a through
along the Buda side of the Danube to I Batthyny tr
in Hungary can call the automobile club on rates, and some are much more expensive train will stop at Kelenfld train station (Map
%188 for assistance. than others, but there are price ceilings pp2289; %203 1687; XI Etele tr 5-7; j19 47 & 49 Link V Dek Ferenc tr in Pest with points in
For information on traffic and public under which cab companies are free to or 49) in Buda. For 24-hour information on southern Buda via the Little Ring Road
road conditions in the capital ring Finform manoeuvre. From 6am to 10pm the high- international train services call %461 5500 61 Connects XI Mricz Zsigmond krtr with Dli train
(%317 1173). est flag-fall fee that can be legally charged is or %06-40 494 949. station and II Moszkva tr in Buda
184 185
 TROLLEYBUS days and till noon or even 2pm on Saturday. August the hottest (average temperature InterClub Hungarian Language School (Map pp2289;
www.lonelyplanet.com

www.lonelyplanet.com
Trolleybuses go along cross streets in cen-
Branch offices close much earlier usually at 26C during each). The number of hours %279 0831; www.interclub.hu; XI Bertalan Lajos utca 17)
4pm and are never open at the weekend. of sunshine a year averages between 1900 International House Language School (Map pp21819;
tral Pest and, in general, are of little use
For restaurant opening hours see p92. and 2500 among the highest in Europe. %212 4010; www.ih.hu; II Bimb t 7)
to most visitors, with the sole exception of
From late April to the end of September,
the ones to and around City Park (70, 72
you can expect the sun to shine for about 10
and 74) and Npliget Park (75 and 77). A
broken red line on a map or atlas signifies CHILDREN hours a day. The mean annual precipitation
in the capital is 650mm.
CUSTOMS
a trolleybus. Successful travel with young children re- Duty-free shopping within the EU was abol-
quires planning and effort. Dont try to The climate chart on this page shows ished in 1999 and Hungary, as an EU mem-
overdo things; packing too much into the you what to expect and when to expect it. ber since 2004, now adheres to the rules.
time available can cause problems. Make For information on specific weather condi- The usual allowances apply to duty-free
PRACTICALITIES sure the activities include the kids as well tions in Budapest, contact the national weather
forecast service (%346 4600, 06-90 504 001;
goods purchased at airports or on ferries
balance that morning at the Museum of originating outside the EU: 200 cigarettes,
ACCOMMODATION Fine Arts with an afternoon at the nearby www.met.hu in Hungarian only). 50 cigars or 250g of loose tobacco; 2L of still
The accommodation options in this guide Municipal Great Circus or a ride on the wine and 1L of spirits; 100mL of perfume;
are listed alphabetically by area for midrange Budapest Eye (p73). If children are allowed 250cc of eau de toilette. You must declare
and top-end hotels, followed by a separate
cheap sleeps section. When budgeting for
to help work out where you will be going, COURSES the import/export of any amount of cash,
your trip, remember that hotel rates rise in
theyll be much more interested when they
get there. Lonely Planets Travel with Child-
Language cheques, securities etc exceeding the sum
of 1,000,000Ft.
April and stay at that level till at least Sep- Schools teaching Hungarian to foreigners
ren is a good resource. When leaving the country, you are not
tember. There are often some bargains to have proliferated in Budapest recently, but
Most car-rental firms in Budapest have supposed to take out valuable antiques
be had during the late autumn and winter they vary greatly in quality, approach and
childrens safety seats for hire at a nominal without a special permit, which should be
months. success rates. You should establish whether
cost, but it is essential that you book them in available from the place of purchase. For
Useful accommodation-booking websites your teacher has a degree in the Hungar-
advance. The same goes for highchairs and details see p146.
include www.hotelshungary.com, www.holi ian language and whether they have ever
cots (cribs); theyre standard in many restau-
dayhungary.com and www.szallasinfo.hu taught foreigners. You should be following
rants and hotels but numbers are limited.
for hotels, and www.youthhostels.hu for
hostel accommodation. Both www.ingatlan
a text or at least a comprehensive series of
photocopies produced by your teacher. Re-
DISABLED TRAVELLERS
Budapest has made great strides in recent
.com and www.alfaapartments.com are use- member also that youll never get anywhere
ful for short-term flat rentals. CLIMATE by simply sitting in class and not studying
years in making public areas and facilities
more accessible to the disabled. Wheelchair
For details on accommodation costs and Budapest has a temperate, transitional at home or practising with native speakers.
climate somewhere between the mild, ramps, toilets fitted for the disabled and
types in Budapest see p152. Expect to pay 850Ft to 1000Ft per hour in inward opening doors, though not as com-
rainy weather of Transdanubia protected a classroom with six to 12 students and
by the Alps to the west and the harsh, vari- mon as they are in Western Europe, do exist
3500Ft to 4200Ft for a private lesson. and audible traffic signals for the blind are
BUSINESS HOURS able climate of the flat and open Great Plain
to the east.
The granddaddy of all Hungarian lan-
guage schools is the Debrecen Summer University
becoming commonplace in the cities.
With rare exceptions, the opening hours For more information, contact the Hun-
Spring arrives in early April in Budapest (Debreceni Nyri Egyetem; %52-532 594;
(nyitvatarts) of any concern are posted on garian Federation of Disabled Persons Associations
and is usually quite wet. Summer can be www.nyariegyetem.hu; Egyetem tr 1) in
the front door. Nyitva means open while (MEOSZ; Map pp2267; %250 9013, 388
very hot and humid. It rains for most of No-
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Directory
zrva is closed. Debrecen, eastern Hungary. It organises in- 2387; www.meoszinfo.hu; III San Marco
vember and doesnt usually get cold until tensive two- and four-week courses in July
Very generally speaking, retail shops utca 76). Its website includes a list of hotels
mid-December. Winter is relatively short, and August and 80-hour, two-week inten-
(including grocery stores) and department with rooms adapted for the disabled as well
often cloudy and damp but sometimes bril- sive courses in January and a superintensive
stores are open from 10am to 6pm Monday liantly sunny. What little snow the city gets as accessible restaurants and tourist sights.
to Friday and 10am to 1pm on Saturday. two-week course in May/June. The emphasis
PRACTICALITIES

PRACTICALITIES
usually disappears after a few days. is not just on language but the whole Mag-
In summer, some private retail shops close January is the coldest month (with the
early on Friday and at least part of August. temperature averaging -4C) and July and
yar picture: art, history, culture, literature.
The two-/four-week (60-/120-hour) summer
DISCOUNT CARDS
Most neighbourhoods have a nonstop A hostel card is not particularly useful in
a convenience store open round-the-clock courses cost 390/760; board and lodging Budapest as no hostel here requires you to
(or very late/early) that sells basic food BUDAPEST 139m (456ft)
Average
Max/Min
in a triple room cost 90/180 (singles and be a Hostelling International (or associated)
items, bottled drinks and cigarettes. Many C F Temp/Humidity % in Rainfall mm doubles available at extra cost). The Budapest member. Having said that, a hostel card
of the hyper-supermarkets around Buda- 30 86 100 4 100 branch (Map p222; %320 5751; Jszai Mari will sometimes get you a 10% discount on
pest open on Sunday. tr 6, 2nd fl) has intensive courses lasting quoted rates. The Hungarian Youth Hostel Associ-
20 68 75
Banking hours change from institution three weeks (60 hours) for 282 and regular ation (MISZSZ; Map p224; %411 2392; www
to location but are usually 7.45am to 5pm 10 50 50 2 50
evening classes of 72/96 hours for 236/322. .youthhostels.hu; V Molnr utca 3) and the
or 6pm Monday, 7.45am to 4pm or 5pm Some other recommended Hungarian- Express travel agency (p195) issue HYHA cards
Tuesday to Thursday and 7.45am to 4pm on 0 32 25 language schools: valid for a year to Hungarian citizens and
Friday. The main post office in any Budapest -10 14 0 0 0 Hungarian Language School (Map p224; %266 2617; residents for 2300Ft, which includes a 300Ft
J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D
district is open 8am to 7pm or 8pm week- www.hls.hu; VIII Brody Sndor utca 4, 1st fl) NeoPhone phonecard.
186 187
 Many attractions offer reduced-price ad- website is www.labrisz.hu but its in Hungar- 4444; www.datanet.hu in Hungarian) and
www.lonelyplanet.com

www.lonelyplanet.com
France (Map pp21819; %374 1100; VI Lendvay utca 27;
mission for retired people (currently 58 and h9am-noon Mon-Fri) ian only. In 2004, the age of consent for gays Inter.net (%465 7800; www.hu.inter.net).
62 for women and men respectively, but and lesbians was lowered to 14 to come into
Germany (Map p220; %488 3505; I ri utca 64-66;
being increased), but this is usually just for line with that of heterosexual couples.
Hungarian nyugdjasok (pensioners) hold- h9am-noon Mon-Fri) In this book gay and lesbian bars, clubs Internet Cafs
ing national ID cards. Of course, it never Ireland (Map p222; %301 4960; Bank Center, Granite and other entertainment venues are listed in Budapest has dozens of Internet cafs, but
hurts to try. Tower, 7th fl, V Szabadsg tr 7; h9.30am-12.30pm & the boxed text, p130, and under gay-owned the smaller ones can get crowded in the
Useful discount cards: 2.30-4.30pm Mon-Fri) and gay-friendly accommodation, p161. early evening. Many of the year-round hos-
Budapest Card (%266 0479; www.budapestinfo.hu; Netherlands (Map pp21819; %336-6300; II Fge The Httr Gay & Lesbian Association (%329 tels and almost all hotels in Budapest now
48/72hr 5200/6500Ft) The Budapest Card offers free or utca 5-7; h10am-noon Mon-Fri) 3380, 06-40 200 358; www.hatter.hu; h6pm- offer Internet access. If the place youre
reduced admission to 60 museums and other sights, unlim- Romania (Map pp21819; %384 0271; XIV Thkly t 72, 11pm) has an advice and help line operating staying at doesnt have it or you just feel
ited travel on all forms of public transport and discounts enter from Izs utca; h8.30am-noon Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri) daily. Budapest Gayguide.net (%06 30 932 3334; like checking your mail on the trot, the
on organised tours, car rental, at thermal baths and at http://budapestgayguide.net; h4pm-8pm following 10 are among the more central
Serbia & Montenegro (Map pp21819; %322 1436; VI Mon-Fri Apr-Oct) can offer advice and/or Internet cafs.
selected shops and restaurants. It is sold at Tourinform Dzsa Gyrgy t 92/b; h10am-1pm Mon-Fri)
offices, travel agencies, hotels and main metro stations. provide information via email or, seasonally, Ami Internet Coffee (Map p224; %267 1644; www.ami
Slovakia (Map p216; %273 3500; XIV Gervay utca 44; by telephone. coffee.hu in Hungarian; V Vci utca 40; per 15/30/60min
Hungary Card (%266 3741, 267-0896; www.hungary h8.30am-noon Mon-Fri) Two AIDS lines to contact are the Anony-
card.hu; 1yr 5520Ft) The national equivalent of the 200/400/700Ft, 5/10hr 3250/6400Ft; h9am-2am;
Slovenia (Map p216; %438 5600; II Csatrka kz 9; mous AIDS Association (%466-9283; h5-8pm mM3 Ferenciek tere) This Internet caf in the university
Budapest Card, this gives free admission to many muse- Mon, Wed & Thu, 9am-noon Tue & Fri)
ums nationwide, 50% discounts on a half-dozen return h9am-noon Mon-Fri) area of Pest has 40 terminals.
and the AIDS Help Line (%338 2419, 266 0465;
train fares and some bus and boat travel as well as other South Africa (Map p216; %392 0999; II Grdonyi Gza CEU NetPoint (Map p224; %328 3506; www.ceunet.ceu
h8am-3pm Mon-Thur, 8am-1pm Fri).
museums and attractions, up to 20% off selected accom- t 17; h9am-12.30pm Mon-Fri) .hu; V Oktber 6 utca 14; per 30/60min 250/400Ft;
modation and 50% off the price of the Budapest Card. It is UK (Map p224; %266 2888; V Harmincad utca 6; h11am-10pm; g15) Just up from the Central
available at the tourist offices. h9.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-4.30pm Mon-Fri) HOLIDAYS European University.
International Student Identity Card (ISIC; www.isic Ukraine (Map pp21819; %422 2122; XIV Stefnia Hungary currently celebrates 10 public holi- Chatman Internet (Map p222; %266 0856; http://
.org; 1 yr 1300Ft) This plastic ID-style card with a photo, t 77; h9am-noon Mon-Wed & Fri by appointment only) days (nnep) every year. chatman.us.to/; VII Kazinczy utca 3; per 1/3hr 200/500Ft;
provides bona fide students with discounts on some forms New Years Day 1 January h8am-midnight Mon-Fri, 10am-midnight Sat & Sun;
USA (Map p222; %475 4164; V Szabadsg tr 12;
of transport and cheap admission to museums and other trolleybus 74) This small and very friendly caf in Pest
sights. If youre aged under 26 but not a student, you can h1-4.30pm Mon-Thu, 9am-noon & 1-4pm Fri) 1848 Revolution/National Day 15 March
offers a free hour online after your first.
apply for ISICs International Youth Travel Card (IYTC; 1 Easter Monday March/April
Cybercaf Zone (Map pp21819; %315 2259, 34 2057;
yr 1300Ft) or the Euro<26 card (valid for summer break
1600Ft, 1 yr 2200Ft) issued by the European Youth Card As-
EMERGENCY International Labour Day 1 May II Lvhz utca 12; per 30/60min 175/350Ft, 10hr 3130Ft;
Any crime must be reported at the police Whit Monday May/June h8am-3am Mon-Sat, 10am-midnight Sun; mM2
sociation (EYCA), both of which offer the same discounts as station of the district youre in. In central Moszkva tr) A very flash place behind the gigantic Mam-
the student card. Teachers can apply for the International St Stephens/Constitution Day 20 August
Pest that would be the Belvros-Liptvros mut shopping mall in Buda.
Teacher Identity Card (ITIC; 1 yr 1300Ft). Police Station (Map p222; %373 1000; V 1956 Remembrance/Republic Day 23 October
Electric Caf (Map p222; %413 1803; www.electriccaf
Szalay utca 11-13; g15). If possible, bring All Saints Day 1 November
.hu; VII Dohny utca 37; per 30/60min 100/200Ft; h9am-
ELECTRICITY along a Hungarian speaker. Christmas holidays 25-26 December midnight; mM2 Blaha Lujza tr) Popular with travellers.
%104
Directory

Directory
The electric current in Budapest is 220V, Ambulance Mystery Bar (Map p222; %312 1436; www.mysterybar
50Hz AC. Plugs are the European type with
two round pins.
Central emergency number
(English spoken) %112
INTERNET ACCESS .hu; V Nagysndor Jzsef utca 3; per 30/60min 300/500Ft;
h4pm-4am Mon-Fri, 6pm-4am Sat & Sun; mM3 Arany
The Internet has arrived in a big way in
English-language crime hotline Hungary, and the blue signs announcing Jnos) This Internet caf is also a neighbourhood gay bar
(p124).
EMBASSIES (8am-8pm) %438-8080 eMagyarorszg Pont are telling you that
PRACTICALITIES

PRACTICALITIES
Selected countries with representation in
(8pm-8am) %06-80 660 044 you can log on somewhere in the vicinity Nagyi Palacsintzja (Grannys Palacsinta Place; Map
Fire %105, 321 6216 be it via a free-access terminal, at a com- p224; %418 0721; V Petfi Sndor tr 17-19; per
Budapest are listed here. The opening hours
mercial Internet caf or at a wi-fi hotspot. 30/60min 300/600Ft; h24hr; mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc
indicate when consular or chancellery ser- Police %107 Many libraries have free terminals; at hotels, tr) This popular palacsinta eating spot (p98) also offers
vices are available. 24-hour car assistance %188, 345 1755 you usually have to pay to use the service. Internet access round the clock.
Australia (Map pp21819; %457 9777; XII Kirlyhg Its hit-or-miss with hostels, but most now Narancs (Map p222; %413 6071; VII Akcfa utca 5; per
tr 8-9, 4th fl; h9-11am Mon-Fri) have at least one terminal available to guests
Austria (Map pp21819; %413 0240; VI Benczr GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS either for free or for a nominal sum.
30/60min 100/200Ft; h10am-midnight; mM2 Blaha
Lujza tr) Small but charming French-run neighbourhood
utca 16; h8-10am Mon-Fri) For up-to-date information on venues, events,
parties etc, pick up the freebie pamphlet Na Internet caf.
Canada (Map pp21819; %392 3360; II Ganz
utca 12-14; h8.30-11am & 2-3.30pm Mon-Thu)
Vgre! (At Last!; navegre@hotmail.com) at Internet Service Providers Parknet (Map p224; %270 2249; V Vci utca 23; per
gay venues or contact them directly. Useful Well-trafficked ISPs in Budapest include 15/30/60min 170/270/500Ft, 5/10hr 1800/3000Ft;
Croatia (Map pp21819; %269 5657; VI Munkcsy websites include www.budapestgayvisitor.hu T-Online Magyarorszg (%371 3400; www.t-on h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-8pm Sun; mM3 Ferenciek
Mihly utca 15; h1-3pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri) and http://budapest.gayguide.net. A lesbian line.hu in Hungarian), GTS-Datanet (%814 tere) About as central as youll find in Pest.
188 189
 Clinics here and youll be able to use them at many
www.lonelyplanet.com

www.lonelyplanet.com
Private Link (Map pp21819; %334 2057; www.private Wing F; h9am-9pm Tue-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat) This library
-link.hu; VIII Jzsef krt 52; per 1/5/10hr 690/2000/3500Ft; allows members (annual adult/student 6000/3000Ft, Consultations and treatment are much more restaurants, shops, hotels, car-rental firms,
h24hr; mM3 Ferenc krt) Budapests largest and most daily 500/300Ft) to do research, peruse the general stacks expensive in Western-style clinics. Dental travel agencies and petrol stations. They are
comfortable Internet caf, and the only one open round and read the large collection of foreign newspapers and work is usually of a high standard and cheap not usually accepted at museums, super-
the clock. magazines. by Western European standards. markets or train and bus stations.
FirstMed Centers (Map pp21819; %224 9090; www
LAUNDRY MAPS .firstmedcenters.com; I Hatty utca 14, 5th fl; happoint-
ments 8am-7pm Mon-Thu, 8am-6pm Fri, 24hr emergency
NEWSPAPERS & MAGAZINES
Most hostels have some sort of laundry fa- Lonely Planets Budapest City Map covers There are two English-language, general-
cilities; expect to pay from 1000Ft to 1500Ft the more popular parts of town in detail. care; mM2 Moszkva tr) This is a modern private medical interest weekly newspapers available in the
per load. Patyolat (commercial laundries) The best folding maps of the city are Car- clinic with round-the-clock emergency services, but its city: the long-established tabloid Budapest
are fairly common in Budapest. You can tographias 1:22,000 (690Ft) and 1:28,000 hardly cheap: a basic consultation costs 12,600/25,200Ft Sun (www.budapestsun.com; 399Ft), which
elect to have your laundry done in six hours (570Ft) ones. If you plan to explore the city for up to 10/20 minutes. appears on Thursday, with a useful classi-
or one, two or three days and pay accord- thoroughly, the Budapest Atlas, also from SOS Dental Services (Map p224; %267 9602, 269 6010; fied section and the Style arts and entertain-
ingly. About the only self-service laun- Cartographia, is a must. It comes in two VI Kirly utca 14; h24hr; mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc tr) ment supplement; and the Budapest Times
drettes in town are Irisz Szalon (Map p224; sizes of the same scale (1:20,000): a smaller This dental surgery charges 2000Ft for a consultation, (www.budapesttimes.hu; 420Ft; Mondays),
%317 2092; V Vroshz utca 3-5; 7kg format (1950Ft) and a larger one (2600Ft). 5000Ft to 6000Ft for extractions and 6000Ft to 10,000Ft a new kid on the block with good reviews
wash/dry 1700/1500Ft; h7am-7pm Mon- There is also a 1:25,000 pocket atlas of just for fillings. and opinion pieces, including The Weekly
Fri; mM3 Ferenciek tere) and Liliom Szalon the Inner Town available for 1210Ft. Stink by local gadfly Erik DAmato. The
(Map pp2289; %215 6782; IX Liliom utca Many bookshops, including Libri Knyvpal- erudite Hungarian Quarterly (www.hun
7-9; 8kg wash 1590Ft; h8am-6pm Mon- ota (p149), stock a wide variety of maps. MONEY garianquarterly.com; 1500Ft), which looks at
Fri, 8am-noon Sat; mM3 Ferenc krt). Cartographia (Map p222; %312 6001; www Hungarys currency is the forint (Ft). There issues in great depth, is a valuable source of
The Top Clean (%227 1500, pickup %227 .cartographia.hu; VI Bajcsy-Zsilinszky t are coins of 1Ft, 2Ft, 5Ft, 10Ft, 20Ft, 50Ft current Hungarian thinking in translation.
5648) chain does a reliable and affordable 37; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri; mM3 Arany and 100Ft. Notes come in seven denomina- For Hungarian-language press, see p13.
job on both laundry and dry cleaning and Jnos utca) has its own outlet in Budapest, tions: 200Ft, 500Ft, 1000Ft, 2000Ft, 5000Ft, The best place in Budapest for foreign-
has some 30 locations around Budapest, but its not self-service, which can be an- 10,000Ft and 20,000Ft. language newspapers and magazines is Vilg-
usually combined with Mister Minit key noying. A better bet is the nearby Trkp- There are automated teller machines sajt Hza (World Press House; Map p224;
cutters, including a Northern Inner Town branch kirly (Map King; Map p222; %472 0505; (ATMs) everywhere in Budapest, including %317 1311; V Vroshz utca 3-5; h7am-
(Map p222; V Arany Jnos utca 34; h7am- VI Bajcsy-Zsilinszky t 23; h10am-6pm in the train and bus stations, and quite a few 7pm Mon-Fri, 7am-2pm Sat, 8am-noon
5.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat; m3 Arany Mon-Fri; mM3 Arany Jnos utca) or even foreign-currency exchange machines. If you Sun; mM3 Ferenciek tere). Almost as good
Jnos utca) and a Terzvros branch (Map p222; the tiny Prisi Udvar Knyvesbolt (Prisi Udvar need to change cash or travellers cheques, is Immedio (Map p224; %318 5604; V Vci
Skla Metro department store, VI Nyugati Bookshop; Map p224; % 235 0379; V avoid moneychangers (especially those on utca 10; h8am-8pm).
tr 1-2; h7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Petfi Sndor utca 2; h9am-7pm Mon- V Vci utca) in favour of the banks. Among
Sat; mNyugati plyaudvar). Fri, 10am-2pm Sat; mM3 Ferenciek tere) those offering the best rates and service
in the Prisi Udvar. are OTP (National Savings Bank; Map p224; PHARMACIES
V Dek Ferenc utca 7-9; h7.45am-6pm Each of Budapests 23 districts has a rotat-
LIBRARIES Mon, 7.45am-5pm Tue-Fri; m M1/2/3 ing all-night pharmacy; a sign on the door
Libraries in Budapest with foreign-language MEDICAL SERVICES Dek Ferenc tr) and K&H (Map p224; V Vci of any pharmacy will help you locate the
Directory

Directory
books and periodicals include the following: Medical care in Budapest is generally ad- utca 40; h8am-5pm Mon, 8am-4pm Tue- closest 24-hour one. Pharmacies with ex-
Ervin Szab Central Library (Fvrosi Szab Ervin equate and good for routine problems but Thu, 8am-3pm Fri; mM3 Ferenciek tere). tended hours:
Knyvtr; Map p222; %411 5000; www.fszek.hu in not complicated conditions. Foreigners are Be sure to arrive about an hour before clos- Csillag Gygyszertr (Map p222; %314 3695; VIII
Hungarian; VIII Reviczky utca 3; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, entitled to first-aid and ambulance services ing to ensure the bureau de change counter Rkczi t 39; h7.30am-9pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-2pm Sat;
10am-4pm Sat; mM3 Klvin tr) This stunning place, only when they have suffered an accident is still open, though. mM2 Blaha Lujza tr)
PRACTICALITIES

PRACTICALITIES
completed in 1894, is the main repository of Budapests and require immediate medical attention; Credit cards, especially Visa, MasterCard
follow-up treatment and medicine must be and American Express, are widely accepted Dli Gygyszertr (Map pp21819; %355 4691; XII
central library system with access to 800,000 books, 1000 Alkots utca 1/b; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat;
periodicals and 40,000 audiovisual and digital items. Youll paid for.
Treatment at a public outpatient clinic mM2 Dli plyaudvar)
need an ID with a Hungarian address and pay a subscrip-
(rendel intzet) costs little, but doctors Terz Patika (Map p222; %311 4439; VI Terz krt 41;
tion of 2800Ft a year if you want to take items away.
working privately will charge much more. A HEALTHY MIX OF MONIES h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat; mM3 Nyugati
National Foreign Language Library (Orszgos Idegen- Very roughly, a consultation in a Hungarian Though Hungary is now part of the EU, it will retain plyaudvar)
nyelv Knyvtr; Map p224; %318 3688; www.oik.hu doctors surgery (orvosi rendel) costs from its own currency until at least 2010. Prices in shops
in Hungarian; V Molnr utca 11; h10am-8pm Mon, Tue, 5000Ft while a home visit is from 10,000Ft. and restaurants in Budapest are uniformly quoted in
Thu & Fri, noon-8pm Wed; mM3 Ferenciek tere) You can
join this library for adult/student 2000/1000Ft a year, but
If you do need health insurance while forint, but many hotels and guesthouses and even PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEO
travelling, consider a policy that covers MV, the national rail company, quote their prices in Major brands of film are readily available
youll need to be introduced by a Hungarian citizen. you for the worst possible scenario, such as euros. In such cases, we have followed suit and you and one-hour processing places are com-
National Szchenyi Library (Orszgos Szchenyi Knyvtr; an accident requiring an emergency flight can usually pay in either euros or forint. mon in Budapest and larger Hungarian cit-
Map p220; %224 3700; www.oszk.hu; Royal Palace, home. ies and towns.
190 191
 Film prices vary but generally 24 ex- a Kafkaesque nightmare of permits and Hsk tere, near major hotels and on cer-
TELEPHONE
www.lonelyplanet.com

www.lonelyplanet.com
posures of 100 ISO Kodacolor II, Agfa or queues; try to send smaller ones. You can tain popular buses (eg 7) and trams (2, 2/a,
You can make domestic and international
Fujifilm cost 999Ft, and 36 exposures are send up to 2kg in one box for 3470Ft to 4, 6, 47 and 49).
calls from public telephones, which are usu-
1290Ft. Ektachrome 100 costs 1790Ft for 36 Europe and 4390Ft to the rest of the world. Taking a taxi in Budapest can be an ex-
ally in good working order. They work with
exposures. Developing print film is 1099Ft Airmail rates are much higher and depend pensive and even unpleasant experience.
both coins and phonecards, though the lat-
a roll; for the prints themselves, you choose on which of five zones the destination is Never hail a cab on the street; instead, call
ter are now far more common. Telephone
the size and pay accordingly (eg 10cm x located. one from a phone private, mobile or pub-
boxes with a black and white arrow and
15cm prints cost 89Ft each). Developing Hungarian addresses start with the name lic and give the number (almost always
red target on the door and the word Vis-
a 40-exposure roll of Kodak 200/400 APS of the recipient, followed on the next line by posted somewhere in the phone box) to the
szahvhat display a telephone number, so
film costs from 1999/2800Ft; slide film the postal code and city or town and then dispatcher. For more information see p184.
you can be phoned back.
costs only 1099Ft to process. Video tape the street name and number. The Hungar- Scams that involve attractive young
such as TDK EHG 30/45 minutes costs 990/ ian postal code consists of four digits. The women, gullible guys, expensive drinks
1310Ft. first indicates the city or town (1 is Buda- in nightclubs and a frog-marching to the
pest), the second and third the kerlet (dis- nearest ATM by gorillas-in-residence have
Local & International Calls
All localities in Hungary have a two-digit
trict) and the last the neighbourhood. been all the rage in Budapest for a decade
telephone area code, except for Budapest,
POST The main post office (Map p224; V Petfi now, and we get letters from male readers
which has just a 1. To make a local call,
The Hungarian Postal Service (Magyar Sndor utca 13-15; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, complaining theyve been ripped off. Guys,
pick up the receiver and listen for the neu-
Posta; www.posta.hu) has improved greatly 8am-2pm Sat; m1/2/3 Dek Ferenc tr) is please, do us ALL a favour. If it seems too
tral and continuous dial tone, then dial the
in recent years; perhaps its jaunty logo of a few minutes walk from Dek Ferenc tr good to be true, it is. Trust us and the mir-
phone number (seven digits in Budapest,
a stylised St Stephens Crown has helped and the Tourinform office. This is where ror; such vanity has cost some would-be
six elsewhere). For an intercity landline
kick-start it into the 21st century. But post you buy stamps, mail letters, send packages Lotharios hundreds and even thousands
call within Hungary and whenever you
offices in Budapest are usually still crowded, and faxes and pick up poste restante. For of dollars.
are calling a mobile telephone, dial %06
service is slow and staff generally speak the last, go around the corner to the main If youve left something on any form of
and wait for the second, more melodious,
Hungarian only. post office annexe (Map p224; V Vroshz utca public transport in Budapest contact the
tone. Then dial the area code and phone
18), which keeps the same hours. Since the BKV lost & found office (Map p222; %267 5299;
number. Cheaper or toll-free blue and green
family name always comes first in Hungar- VII Akcfa utca 18; h8am-5pm Mon, Tue,
numbers start with the digits %06-40 and
Postal Rates ian usage, have the sender underline your Thu & Fri, 8am-6pm Wed; mM2 Blaha
%06-80 respectively.
Sending letters within Hungary costs 52Ft last name, as letters are often misfiled under Lujza tr).
The procedure for making an interna-
(90Ft for priority mail), while for the rest foreigners first names.
tional call is the same as for a local call
of Europe its 170Ft (190Ft priority). Air- Two other convenient post offices with
mail (lgiposta) letters of up to 20/50g are extended hours are the Nyugati train station TAXES & REFUNDS except that you dial %00, wait for the sec-
ond dial tone, then dial the country code,
185/270Ft within Europe and 210/350Ft post office (Map p222; VI Terz krt 51-53; FA, a value-added tax of between 5% and
the area code and then the number. The
for the rest of the world. Postcards cost h 7am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun; 20% (down from 25% in January 2006),
country code for Hungary is %36.
52Ft to send within Hungary, 120Ft within mM3 Nyugati plyaudvar) and the Keleti covers the purchase of all new goods in
the rest of Europe and 140Ft to the rest of train station post office (Map pp21819; VIII Hungary. Its usually included in the quoted
the world. Kerepesi t 2-6; h 7am-9pm Mon-Fri, price but not always, so it pays to check. Phonecards
8am-2pm Sat; mM2 Keleti plyaudvar). Visitors are not exempt, but non-EU resi- Phonecards, which are available from post
dents can claim refunds for total purchases offices, newsagents, hotels and petrol sta-
Sending & Receiving Mail
Directory

Directory
of at least 50,000Ft on one receipt as long tions, come in message units of 50/120 and
To beat the crowds at the post office, ask SAFETY as they take the goods out of the country
at kiosks, newsagents or stationery shops No parts of Budapest are off-limits to (and the EU) within 90 days. The FA re-
if they sell stamps (blyeg). If you must visitors, although some locals now avoid ceipts (available from the shops where you
deal with the post office, youll be relieved Margaret Island after dark off-season, and make the purchases) should be stamped by USEFUL TELEPHONE NUMBERS
PRACTICALITIES

PRACTICALITIES
to learn that most people are there to pay both residents and visitors give the dodgier customs at the border, and the claim has to The following are useful numbers to know when
electric, gas and telephone bills or parking parts of the 8th and 9th districts (areas of be made within 183 days of exporting the using the phone in Budapest. For emergency num-
fines. To get in and out with a minimum prostitution) a wide berth. goods. You can then collect your refund bers, see p188 and inside the front cover.
of fuss, look for the window marked with As elsewhere while travelling, you are minus commission from the Global Refund
the symbol of an envelope. Make sure the most vulnerable to car thieves, pickpock- (www.globalrefund.com) desk in the depart- Information Plus (any inquiry;
destination of your letter is written clearly, ets, taxi louts and scammers. To avoid ures halls of Terminal 2A and 2B at Ferih- English spoken) %197
and simply hand it over to the clerk, who having your car ripped off, follow the egy airport in Budapest or at branches of Domestic operator/inquiries
will apply the stamps for you, postmark it usual security procedures: dont park it the Ibusz chain of travel agencies at some (English spoken) %198
and send it on its way. in a darkened street, make sure the bur- 16 border crossings. You can also have it International inquiries/operator
To send a parcel, look for the sign Cso- glar alarm is armed, have a steering-wheel sent by bank cheque or deposited into your (English spoken) %199
magfelads or Csomagfelvtel. Standard lock in place and leave nothing of value credit-card account.
packages sent domestically cost 690Ft for inside. Like municipalities throughout the land, Time/speaking clock (in Hungarian) %180
up to 20kg. Packages going abroad must Pickpocketing is most common in mar- Budapest levies a tourist tax on most forms Wake-up service (in Hungarian) %193
not weigh more than 2kg or else youll face kets, the Castle District, Vci utca and of accommodation (p153).
192 193
 cost 800/1800Ft. But these are by far the Like some other European languages, Travel Agencies International Ferry Pier in Budapest. They
www.lonelyplanet.com

www.lonelyplanet.com
most expensive way to go. As everywhere Magyar tells the time by making reference If your query is about private accommoda- are rarely issued on international buses and
else these days, there is a plethora of phone- to the next hour not the one before as we tion, flights or international train travel or never on trains. Be sure to retain the sepa-
cards on offer. Among the most widely do in English. Thus 7.30 is half eight (fl you need to change money, you could turn rate entry and exit forms issued with the
available are T-Coms Barangol (%06-80 nyolc ra) and the 24-hour system is often to a commercial travel agency, such as Ibusz, visa that is stamped in your passport.
501 255; www.magyartelekom.hu), which used in giving the bus and train departures arguably the best for private accommoda- Single-entry tourist visas are issued at Hun-
comes in denominations of 400Ft, 1000Ft, as well as the times of movies, concerts and tion (p153), or Express, which issues stu- garian consulates or missions in applicants
2000Ft and 5000Ft, and NeoPhone (%06-80 so on. So a film at 7.30pm could appear on a dent, youth, teacher and hostel cards (p187) country of residence upon receipt of S$40
188 202; www.neophone.hu), with cards listing as f8, f20, 1/28 or 1/220. A quar- and sells discounted Billet International de (or equivalent) and three photos (US$65 at a
valued at 300Ft, 1000Ft, 2000Ft and 5000Ft. ter to the hour has a 3/4 in front (thus 3/48 Jeunesse (BIJ) train and cheap air tickets. mission outside the country of residence or
Sample per-minute costs with these cards means 7.45) while quarter past is 1/4 of the at the border). A double-entry tourist visa
are 25Ft to most European countries and next hour (eg 1/49 means 8.15). Got it? Express (Map p224; %327 7290, 266 3277; www.express costs US$75/100, and you must have five
the USA, 29Ft to Australia and New Zea- -travel.hu; V Semmelweis utca 4; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, photos. A multiple-entry visa is US$180/
land, and 50Ft to South Africa. 9am-1pm Sat; mM2 Astoria) The main office of this 200. Single and double-entry visas are valid
TIPPING youth- and student-orientated agency can book accommo-
dation, particularly hostels and colleges, and sell transport
for six months prior to use. Multiple-entry
Hungary is a very tip-conscious society and ones are good for a year.
Mobile Phones nearly everyone in Budapest will routinely tip tickets. Be sure to get a tourist rather than a
In Hungary you must always dial %06 waiters, hairdressers and taxi drivers. Doc- Ibusz (Map p224; %485 2700; www.ibusz.hu; V Feren- transit visa; the latter available for single
when ringing mobile telephones, which tors and dentists accept gratitude money, ciek tere 10; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat; mM3 (US$38/50), double (US$65/90) and mul-
have specific area codes depending on the and even petrol-station and thermal-spa Ferenciek tere) The main office of this travel agency giant tiple (US$150/180) entries is only good
telecom company: Pannon GSM (%06-20; attendants expect something. If you arent supplies travel brochures, changes money, books all types for a stay of 48 hours, you must enter and
www.pgsm.hu/index_en.php), T-Mobile impressed with the service at a restaurant, of accommodation and accepts credit-card payments. leave through different border crossings
(%06 30; www.magyartelekom.hu) and the joyride in a taxi or the way someone cut and already hold a visa (if required) for the
Mellow Mood (Map p224; %411 2390; www.youth
Vodafone (%06 70; www.vodafone.hu). your hair, leave little or nothing at all. He or next country you visit.
hostels.hu, www.mellowmood.hu; V Molnr utca 3;
If youre going to spend more than just a she will get the message loud and clear. Tourist visas are only extended in emer-
few days here and expect to use your phone h9am-6pm Mon-Fri; mM3 Ferenciek tere) This new
To learn more about the unusual way to kid on the block run by the hostel group of the same name gencies (such as medical; 3000Ft) and this
quite a bit, consider buying a rechargeable tip a waiter see p92. must be done at the main police station
can organise accommodation in private rooms and hostels,
SIM chip, which will reduce the cost of (rendrkapitnysg) of the kerlet in which
book tours, sell you discounted air tickets etc.
making local calls (between 19Ft and 27Ft you are staying five days before the original
Vista (Map p224; %429 9751; www.vista.hu; VI Paulay
a minute) to a fraction of what youd pay
on your own foreign mobile. For example,
TOURIST INFORMATION Ede utca 2; h9am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2.30pm Sat;
one expires.
You are supposed to register with the po-
Vodafone (Map p222; %238 7281, 238 7588; Tourist Offices mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc tr) Vista is an excellent one-stop lice if staying in one place for more than 30
Shop 46, 4th fl, West End City Centre, VI Many of the travel agencies listed in the shop for all your travel needs, both outbound (air tickets, days, and your hotel, hostel or private room
Vci t 3; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am- next section also provide information, bro- package tours etc) and incoming (room bookings, organ- booked through an agency will do this for
6pm Sun; mNyugati plyaudvar) has pre- chures and maps. ised tours, study and ecological tours in Hungary etc). you. In other situations if youre staying
paid vouchers available for 1000/2500Ft Budapest Tourist Office (BTO; %266 0479; www.buda Wasteels (%343 3492; VIII Kerepesi t 2-6; h8am- with friends or relatives, for example you
with 500/1500Ft worth of credit. Top-up pestinfo.hu) Budapest Tourist has three equally conveni- 8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm Sat; mM2 Keleti plyaudvar) or the head of household has to take care of
cards cost 3000/7000/12,000Ft and are valid ent and far less frantic outlets than Tourinform for infor- This agency at the top of platform 9 at Keleti train station this yourself within 72 hours of moving in.
Directory

Directory
for three/six/12 months. mation and advice, including a Castle Hill branch (Map (Map pp21819) sells BIJ tickets but you must have a Address registration forms for foreigners
p220; %488 0475; I Szenthromsg tr; h9am-8pm student or youth card (p188) to get the discounted fares. (lakcmbejelent lap klfldiek rszre) are
May-Sept, 10am-7pm Oct-Apr; g16 or Vrbusz); an usually available at post offices.
TIME Oktogon branch (Map p222; %322 4098; VI Liszt Fer-
Budapest lies in the Central European time enc tr 11; h9am-7pm Apr-Oct, 10am-6pm Nov-Mar; VISAS
WOMEN TRAVELLERS
PRACTICALITIES

PRACTICALITIES
zone. Winter time is GMT plus one hour mM1 Oktogon); and a Nyugati train station branch Citizens of virtually all European countries
and in summer its GMT plus two hours. (Map p222; %302 8580; Nyugati plyaudvar, platform as well as Australia, Canada, Israel, Japan, Hungarian men can be sexist in their think-
Clocks are advanced at 2am on the last Sun- 10; h9am-7pm Apr-Oct,9am-6pm Nov-Mar; mM3 New Zealand and the USA do not require ing, but women in Budapest do not suffer
day in March and set back at the same time Nyugati plyaudvar). It also maintains offices at Ferihegy visas to visit Hungary for stays of up to any particular form of harassment (though
on the last Sunday in October. airports Terminals 1, 2A (arrivals) and 2B (departures). 90 days. Nationals of South Africa (among domestic violence and rape get relatively
Without taking daylight-saving times others) still require visas. Check current visa little media coverage here). Most men
into account, when its noon in Budapest, Tourinform (Map p224; %438 8080, %24hr informa-
requirements at a Hungarian consulate, any even drunks are effusively polite with
its: 11pm in Auckland, 1pm in Bucharest, tion hotline 06-80 630 800; www.tourinform.hu; V St
HNTO or Malv Hungarian Airlines office women. Women may not be made to feel
11am in London, 2pm in Moscow, 6am utca 2; h8am-8pm; mM1/2/3 Dek Ferenc tr). This is
or on the website of the Hungarian Foreign Minis- especially welcome when eating or drinking
in New York, noon in Paris, 3am in San usually the single best source of information about Buda- alone, but its really no different from most
try (www.mfa.gov.hu.) as requirements often
Francisco, 9pm in Sydney and 8pm in pest but it can get hopelessly crowded in summer, and the change without notice. other countries in Europe.
Tokyo. For information about other time staff are no longer very patient or even helpful. Visas are issued at Hungarian consulates If you do need assistance and/or informa-
zones and their relation to Hungary, see the Visitors Guide Budapest (www.visitorsguide.hu) This is or missions, most international highway tion ring the Womens Line (Nvonal; %06-80
World Times Zones map (p214). the Budapest Suns site. border crossings, Ferihegy airport and the 505 101; h6-10pm Thu-Tue) or Women for
194 195
 Lonely Planet Publications
.hu; 575Ft), which is an almost archival
www.lonelyplanet.com

Women against Violence (NANE; %267 4900;

info@nane.hu). publication of financial news and business
stories that has been around for nearly 15
years and appears on Monday. Another
WORK useful publication for businesspeople is
the feature-oriented Business Hungary
Travellers on tourist visas in Budapest are
not supposed to accept employment, but (900Ft), compiled monthly by the Ameri-
many end up teaching, doing a little writ- can Chamber of Commerce.
ing for the English-language press or even Following are some important addresses
working for foreign firms without permits. and/or useful sources of information:
Check the English-language telephone book American Chamber of Commerce in Hungary (Map p224;
or advertisements for English-language %266 9880; www.amcham.hu; V Dek Ferenc utca 10,
schools in the Budapest Sun, which also has 5th fl; mM1 Vrsmarty tr)
job listings, though pay is generally pretty British Chamber of Commerce in Hungary (Map p222;
low. You can do much better teaching pri-
%302 5200, www.bcch.com; V Bank utca 6, 2nd fl;
vately (up to 4000Ft per 45-minute hour,
mM3 Arany Jnos utca)
depending on your experience).
For the most part, EU nationals can come Budapest Chamber of Commerce & Industry (Budapesti
and work freely in Hungary, though they do Kereskedelmi s Iparkamra; Map p220; %214 1826;
require a residency permit, which can only www.bkik.hu in Hungarian; I Krisztina krt 99; j18)
be obtained in Budapest (1500Ft). For non- Economy & Transport Ministry (Gazdasgi s Kzlekedsi
EU nationals, however, obtaining a work Minisztrium; Map p222; %374 2700; www.gkm.hu; V
permit (munkavllalsi engedly) involves Honvd utca 13-15; mM2 Kossuth Lajos tr)
a considerable paper chase. Youll need Finance Ministry (Pnzgy Minisztrium; Map p224;
a letter of support from your prospective
%318 2066; www.meh.hu in Hungarian; V Jzsef ndor
employer, copies of your birth certificate, tr 2-4; mM1 Vrsmarty tr)
your academic record and results of a recent
medical examination (including a test for Hungarian Chamber of Commerce & Industry (Magyar
exposure to HIV) costing about 20,000Ft. Kereskedelmi s Iparkamra; Map p222; %474 5100;
The employer then submits these to the local www.mkik.hu in Hungarian; V Kossuth Lajos tr 6-8, 5th fl;
labour centre (munkagyi kzpont), and you mM2 Kossuth Lajos tr)
must return to your country of residence
and apply for the work permit (US$50 or For photocopying, digital printing and
equivalent) at the Hungarian embassy or computer services like scanning, visit any
consulate there. of the eight outlets of Copy General (www
When you return to Hungary, you have .copygeneral.hu in Hungarian), including
15 days to gather all the documents re- its district V branch (Map p222; %302 3206;
quired to apply for a one-year renewable V Klmn Imre utca 22; h24hr; mM3
Directory

residence permit (tartzkodsi engedly; Nyugati plyaudvar). A similar and

5000Ft) through the Residency Department aptly named place nearby is CopyCat (Map
of the Ministry of Internal Affairs Immi- p222; % 312 7636; www.copycat.hu; V
gration office at XI Budafoki t 60 in Buda- Alkotmny utca 18; h7am-10pm Mon-
pest or through the main police station Fri, 10am-8pm Sat & Sun; mM3 Nyugati
PRACTICALITIES

(fkapitnysg) in your district or city. plyaudvar).

All the major courier companies are rep-
resented here, including DHL (%06-40 454
Doing Business 545; www.dhl.hu), FedEx Hungary (%06-40
The main source of information in Eng- 980 980; www.fedex.com), TNT Express (%431
lish for businesspeople in Budapest is the 3131; www.tnt.hu) and UPS (%06-40 262
Budapest Business Journal (BBJ; www.bbj 000; www.ups.com).

196 197
 Lonely Planet Publications

Language
Pronunciation 198
Social 198
Practical 199
Food 201
Emergencies 201
Health 201
198
 Youre welcome. Szvesen. How far is it?
Language

www.lonelyplanet.com
Excuse me. (to get Elnzst krek. Milyen messze van?
attention) Can you show me (on the map)?
Excuse me. (to get Bocsnat. Meg tudja mutatni nekem (a trkpen)?
past) Its straight ahead.
Sorry. Sajnlom. Egyenesen elttnk van.
Its true anyone can speak another language. Dont worry if you havent studied languages How are you? Hogy van? (pol)
before or that you studied a language at school for years and cant remember any of it. It Hogy vagy? (inf) Turn ...
doesnt even matter if you failed English grammar. After all, thats never affected your abil- Fine. And you? Jl. s n/te? Forduljon ...
ity to speak English! And this is the key to picking up a language in another country. You Whats your name? Mi a neve? (pol) at the corner a saroknl
just need to start speaking. Mi a neved? (inf) at the trac a kzlekedsi
Learn a few key phrases before you go. Write them on pieces of paper My name is ... A nevem ... lights lmpnl
and stick them on the fridge, by the bed or even on the computer anywhere Im pleased to rvendek. left/right balra/jobbra
that youll see them often. meet you.
Youll find that locals appreciate travellers trying their language, no
matter how muddled you may think you sound. So dont just stand
Where are you
from?
n honnan jn? Signs
there, say something! If you want to learn more Hungarian than weve Bejrat Entrance
Im from ... n ... jvk. Kijrat Exit
included here, pick up a copy of Lonely Planets user-friendly Hungarian
Do you speak Beszl angolul? Nyitva Open
Phrasebook.
English? Zrva Closed
I (dont) (Nem) rtem. Foglalt Reserved/Occupied
PRONUNCIATION sz
ty
as the s in sit
as the tu in tube (British) understand. Belpni Tilos No Entry
The letters and , and and , are listed What does ... Mit jelent az, hogy ...? Tilos Prohibited
zs as the s in pleasure
as separate pairs of letters in dictionaries mean? Tilos a Dohnyzs No Smoking
(following o, and u, respectively). The Could you please Lern, krem. Toalett/WC Toilets
consonant combinations cs, dz, dzs, gy, ly,
ny, sz, ty and zs also have separate entries.
SOCIAL write it down? Frfiak Men
Meeting People Nk Women
In the following phrases, the polite form Going Out
Vowels of you (n and nk) is given except for Whats on ...? Question Words
a as in hot situations where you might wish to estab- Mi a program ...? How many? Hny?
as in father lish a more personal relationship. locally helyben How much? Mennyi?
e as in bet Note that when you want to say Hello, this weekend ezen a htvgn What? Mi?
as in air Hi, or Bye, the word will change depend- today ma What kind? Milyen?
i as in hit ing on whether you are speaking to one per- tonight ma este Where? Hol?
as in meet son or more than one. Look for the symbols When? Mikor?
o as in law but short sg (singular) or pl (plural) to determine Where can I find ...? Which? Melyik?
as in awl which word to use. Hol tallok ...? Who? Ki?
as in curt but short (with no r clubs klubokat Why? Mirt?
sound) Hello. Szervusz. (sg) gay venues meleg szrakoz-
as in her (with no r sound) Szervusztok. (pl) helyeket
u as in pull Hi. Szia/Sziasztok. (sg/pl) places to eat egy helyet, ahol enni Numbers & Amounts

Language
as in rule The word kett is used when expressing the
lehet
like i but with rounded lips (like u Good ... J ... kvnok. number two on its own, while kt is used
pubs pubokat
in French tu) morning reggelt when it is followed by the counted noun.
as in strewn afternoon/day napot
Is there a local entertainment guide?
evening estt 0 nulla
Van itt helyi programkalauz? 1 egy
Consonants Goodbye. Viszlt. (pol) 2 kett/kt
c
cs
as the ts in rats
as the ch in cheese
Szia. (inf sg)
Sziasztok. (inf sg/pl)
PRACTICAL 3
4
hrom
ngy
dz as in adze Good night. J jszakt. Directions 5 t
dzs as the j in joke Yes. Igen. Wheres (the market)? 6 hat
gy as the du in dune (British) No. Nem. Hol van (a piac)? 7 ht
j/ly as in yes Please. Krem. (pol) Whats the address? 8 nyolc
ny as the ny in canyon Krlek (inf) Mi a cm? 9 kilenc
r as in run (but rolled) Thank you (very (Nagyon) Ksznm. How do I get there? 10 tz
s as the sh in ship much). Hogyan jutok oda? 11 tizenegy
200 201
 12 tizenkett I want to send a ... Whens the ...?
EMERGENCIES
www.lonelyplanet.com

www.lonelyplanet.com
13 tizenhrom ... szeretnk kldeni. Mikor megy ...?
14 tizenngy Help! Segtsg!
letter Levelet first az els
15 tizent Could you please Tudna segteni?
parcel Csomagot last az utols
16 tizenhat help?
postcard Kpeslapot next a kvetkez
17 tizenht Call the police! Hvja a rendrsget!
18 tizennyolc I want to buy a/an... Call a doctor! Hvjon orvost!
Is this taxi available?
19 tizenkilenc ... szeretnk venni. Wheres the police Hol a rendrsg?
Szabad ez a taxi?
20 hsz airmail envelope Lgipostai bortkot station?
Please put the meter on.
21 huszonegy ordinary envelope Sima bortkot Go away! Menjen el!
Krem, kapcsolja be az rt.
22 huszonkett stamp Blyeget How much is it to ...?
30 harminc
31 harmincegy
Mennyibe kerl ... ba? HEALTH
32 harminckett Phones & Mobiles Please take me to (this address).
Krem, vigyen el (erre a cmre).
Wheres the nearest ...?
40 negyven Wheres the nearest public phone? Hol a legkzelebbi ...?
Hol a legkzelebbi nyilvnos telefon? What time does it leave? dentist fogorvos
41 negyvenegy Mikor indul?
42 negyvenkett I want to make a collect/reverse-charge call. doctor orvos
50 tven R beszlgetst szeretnk krni. hospital krhz
60
70
hatvan
hetven I want to ...
FOOD medical centre orvosi rendel
(night) pharmacist (jszaka nyitvatart)
breakfast reggeli
80 nyolcvan Szeretnk ... gygyszertr
lunch ebd
90 kilencven buy a phonecard dinner vacsora
100 szz telefonkrtyt venni Im allergic to ...
snack snack
200 ktszz call (Singapore) Allergis vagyok ...
1000 ezer (Szingapr)ba telefonlni antibiotics az antibiotikumokra
Can you recommend a ... ?
make a (local) call penicillin a penicillinre
Tud/Tudsz ajnlani egy ...? pol/inf
(helyi) telefonbeszlgetst folytatni
Days bar/pub brt/pubot
Monday htf
Id like a ...
beer bar srzt Symptoms
Tuesday kedd restaurant ttermet I have a headache. Fj a fejem.
Wednesday szerda Szeretnk egy ...
self-service nkiszolglt I have a sore throat. Fj a torkom.
Thursday cstrtk charger for my phone
restaurant
Friday pntek tltt a telefonomhoz
I have (a) ...
Saturday szombat mobile phone/cellphone for hire
Is service included in the bill? ... van.
Sunday vasrnap mobiltelefont brelni
A kiszolgls dja benne van a szmlban? asthma Asztmm
(prepaid) SIM card
(elre kifizetett) SIM-krtyt diarrhoea Hasmensem
Banking For more detailed information on food and
dining out, see p25 and p91.
fever
nausea
Lzam
Hnyingerem
Id like to ...
Szeretnk ... Internet
change a travellers bevltani egy utazsi Wheres the local Internet caf?
Hol van a legkzelebbi internet kvz? eszpressz coffee shop, often also selling alcoholic
cheque csekket GLOSSARY
Language

Language
change money pnzt vltani drinks and snacks; strong, black coffee; same as pressz
Id like to ... FA value-added tax (VAT) tkezde canteen that serves simple dishes
Do you accept ...? Szeretnm ... VO Rkosis hated secret police in the early years of tterem restaurant
Elfogadnak ...? check my email communism; later renamed VH
BKV Budapest Kzlekedsi Valllat (Budapest Transport fasor boulevard, avenue
credit cards hitelkrtyt megnzni az e-mailjeimet
Company) forint (Ft) Hungarys monetary unit
travellers cheques utazsi csekket get Internet access
bolhapiac flea market fkapitnysg main police station
rmenni az internetre
Where is ...? boroz wine bar; any place serving wine gygyfrd bath or spa
Bp commonly used abbreviation for Budapest gygyszertr pharmacy
Hol van ...?
an ATM egy bankautomata
Transport bcs farewell; also a church patronal festival
haj boat
Which ... goes to (the Parliament)? bf snack bar
a foreign exchange egy valutavlt hajalloms ferry pier or landing
Melyik ... megy (a Parlamenthez)? centrum town or city centre
oce gynksg hz house
bus busz cukrszda cake shop or patisserie
train vonat hegy hill, mountain
Post tram villamos Eclectic an art and architectural style that was popular
in Hungary in the Romantic period, drawing from sources
HV Helyirdek Vast (suburban commuter train in
Budapest)
Wheres the post oce? trolleybus trolibusz
Hol van a postahivatal? metro line metr both indigenous and foreign hd bridge
202 203
 Lonely Planet Publications
www.lonelyplanet.com

HNTO Hungarian National Tourism Office rakpart quay, embankment

ifjsgi szll youth hostel rendrkapitnysg police station
kastly manor house or mansion (see vr) Secessionism art and architectural style similar to Art
kerlet city district Nouveau
kincstr treasury sedile (pl sedilia) medieval stone niche with seats
Kiskrt Little Ring Road in Budapest stny walkway, promenade
knyvesbolt bookshop srz beer bar or pub
knyvtr library strand grassy beach near a river or lake
krhz hospital szll or szlloda hotel
krt ring road szkesegyhz cathedral
korz embankment or promenade szemlyvonat passenger trains that stop at every city,
kz alley, mews, lane town, village and hamlet along the way
kzpont centre sziget island
krt abbreviation for krt (ring road)
tnchz folk music and dance workshop
lekvr fruit jam templom church
lpcs stairs, steps tr town or market square
liget park tere genitive form of tr as in Hsk tere (Square of
Mahart Hungarian passenger ferry company the Heroes)
Malv Hungarys national airline t lake
MV Magyar llamvasutak (Hungarian State Railways) turul eagle-like totem of the ancient Magyars and now
megye county a national symbol
Nagykrt Big Ring Road in Budapest u abbreviation for utca (street)
nyitva open udvar court
nkiszolgl self-service szoda swimming pool
plinka fruit brandy t road
palota palace utca street
plyaudvar train or railway station utcja genitive form of utca as in Ferencesek utcja
panzi pension, guesthouse (Street of the Franciscans)
patika pharmacy tja genitive form of t as in Mrtrok tja (Street of
pnztr cashier the Martyrs)
piac market vgny platform
pince wine cellar
vr castle
porta type of farmhouse in Transdanubia
vros city
pressz same as eszpressz (coffee shop; strong, black
vroshz or vroshza town hall
coffee)
pu abbreviation for plyaudvar (train station) vendgl a type of restaurant
puttony the number of butts of sweet asz essence Voln Hungarian bus company
added to other base wines in making Tokaj wine zrva closed
Language

Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
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204 205
 Lonely Planet Publications

Index
See also separate indexes for Eating (p211), Entertainment (p212), Shopping (p213) and Sleeping
City Park Calvinist
church 20
Eger Cathedral 176, 176
Franciscan church &
courses, language 187
crafts, see folk crafts
Crafts Celebration 10
credit cards 191
Elephant House 72, 2
Elizabeth, Empress (Sissi)
statue 57-8
Elizabeth Bridge 57, 103
Budapest Early Music
Forum 9
Budapest Fair 9
Budapest International
(p213). monastery ruins 81 Crown of St Stephen 65 embassies 188 Wine Fair 10
Gizella Chapel 174 Csontvry, Kosztka Tivadar emergency 188 Budapest Spring
1703-11 War of Gothic 19 Blagovetenska Church 170 tours 52 Holy Right Chapel 64 21 entertainment 121-40, see Festival 9
Independence 42 medieval 101 Blaha Lujza tr 85 within Budapest 182 Inner Town Parish Church culture 8, 10-15 also Entertainment index Danube Folklore
1848-49 War of modern 19 Blood Meadow 42 business hours 186 19, 64 customs 11-13 Internet resources 122 Carnival 9
Independence 21, 43 Renaissance 19 blues music venues 132 eating venues 92 itineraries 169 drinks 6, 26 neighbourhoods 122-3 Ferencvros Summer
1956 Uprising 47-8 Secessionist 20 boat travel shops 142 Jk Chapel 73 food & drink 26-7, 32 tickets & reservations Festival 9
Arkay, Aladr 20 to/from Budapest 181 Lehel church 83 customs regulations 187 122 food & wine 32
A rpd dynasty 38-9 tours 51-2 C Matthias Church 21, 41, antiques 146 whats on 122 International Circus
Academy of Fine Arts 87 Arrow Cross Party 45-6 within Budapest 181 cafs 125-8 55, 155 cycling 138, 181 Enyedi, Ildik 23 Festival 9
accommodation 151-66, art galleries, see museums Bhm, Henrik 20 camera obscura 176 Minorite church 176, 109 Margaret Island 63 Erkel, Ferenc 18 Jewish Summer Festival
186, see also Sleeping & galleries books, see also literature canoeing 138 buda Parish Church tours 52 Ervin Szab Central Library 10
index arts 17-24, see also food & wine 28 Capuchin church 58 19, 79 190 Martonvsr Days 173
costs 153 individual entries history 41 car travel 183-4 Parish Church of St John D Erzsbet tr 83 National Dance House
styles 152-3 Astronomy Museum 176 Botanical Garden 72 Carl Lutz monument 84 170 dance 19 Erzsbetvros 68-9, 83-5, Meeting & Fair 9
activities 135-40, see also VH (VO) 47, 71 Bridge Festival 9 Castle Hill 53-6, 76-9, 55, Premonstratensian Danube Folklore 222, 224 Sziget Music Festival 10
individual entries bridges 101, 220 Church 81 Carnival 9 accommodation 162-3 films 23-4
Margaret Island 62-3, 63 B Elizabeth Bridge 57, 103 accommodation 154-6 St Annes Church 19, 58 National Dance House food 115-16 fire services 188
Ady, Endre 23 Babits, Mihly 22 Independence Bridge 57 food 94 St Florian Chapel 58 Meeting & Fair 9 shopping 148-9 Fishermens Bastion 54, 101
air travel to/from Budapest Bacs, Pter 23 Margaret Bridge 57 shopping 142-3 St Johns Cathedral 175 National Dance Theatre walking tour 83-5, 84 fitness clubs 138
180-1 Blint, Zoltn 20 Szchenyi Chain Bridge walking tour 76-9, 77 Serbian Orthodox 78 Esterhzy, Pter 23 F utca 58
alcoholism 26 ballet 19 57, 55, 99, 101, 103 Cathedral of St Michael 174 church 88 venues 134-5 Ethnography Museum 64-5 folk crafts
Alfrd Hajs National Bank Palace 90 Brunswick Mansion 173 cathedrals, see churches & University Church 88 Danube Folklore Carnival 9 EU membership 15 Crafts Celebration 10
Sports Pool 62-3, 137 bars 29, 30, 123-5, see also Buda Castle Labyrinth cathedrals Veszprm Cathedral 109 Dek, Ferenc 43-44 Eugene of Savoy statue 79 Zsigmond Kun Folk Art
ambulance services 188 Entertainment index 53-4 Cave Chapel 56 cinema 23-4 statue 65-6 excursions 167-78, 168 Collection 60
Andrssy t 70-2, 86-8, Bartk, Bla 18 Buda Concert Hall 58 caving 138-9 cinemas 133-4 Debrecen Summer food 26-9, 91-120
102, 218-19, 222 Bla Bartk Memorial Buda Hills 61-2, 216 cemeteries Citadella 19, 44, 56-7 University 187 F books 28
accommodation 164-5 House 61-2 accommodation 157 Farkasrti Cemetery 19-20 City Park 72-4, 218-19 disabled travellers 187 Falk Miksa utca 82 budget venues 98, 111,
food 118 Basilica of St Stephen 64, 39 food 97-8 Kerepes Cemetery 74 accommodation 165 Dominican convent, famous Hungarians 22 119-20
shopping 150 baths, see thermal baths Budapest Autumn Festival New Municipal Cemetery food 119-20 former 81 Farkasrti Cemetery 19-20 customs 26-7, 32
walking tour 86-8, 87 Baths Museum 79 10 74 shopping 150 Dominican Convent of fashion 13, see also festivals 32
animals, treatment of 12-13 Batthyny tr 58 Budapest Early Music Centennial Monument 80 City Park Calvinist church 20 St Catherine 174 Shopping index specialities 27-9
Anonymous 37 Batthyny, Lajos 43 Forum 9 Central European University City Zoo & Botanical Dzsa, Gyrgy 40 clothing sizes chart 149 vocabulary 31
statue 73 Battle of Mohcs 40 Budapest Eye 73 11 Garden 72 Drechsler House 86 Fashion House 87 football 13, 140
Apczai Gimnzium Bauhaus apartments 82 Budapest Fair 9 Chapel of St George 174 climate 186-7 Dreher Brewery & Beer Ferdinand Gate 79 Formula 1 Hungarian Grand
elementary school 88 Baumgarten, Sndor 20 Budapest History Museum chapels, see churches & clubs 128-30 Museum 74 Ferenc Liszt Academy of Prix 9
apartments 154 Bed House 20 54-5 cathedrals coffee 29, 30 drinking venues 123-8 Music 21, 19 Foundry Museum 58
Applied Arts Museum 21, beer 30 Budapest International chemists 191 modern cafs 127-8 drinks 29-32 Ferencvros 69-70, 85-6, Franciscan church &
69, 99, 102 Dreher Brewery & Beer Marathon 10 children, travel with 73, 186 traditional cafs 125-6 customs 6, 26 218-19, 228-9 monastery ruins 81
aquariums, see zoos & Museum 74 Budapest International Childrens Railway 61 Cog Railway 61 Zwack Unicum Museum accommodation 163-4 Frankel Le t 58
aquariums Beethoven Memorial Wine Fair 10 Church of St Teresa 84 Communist Party & Visitor Centre 70 food 116-17 Franz Liszt Memorial
Index

Index
Aquincum 59-60, 80, 226-7 Museum 173 Budapest Puppet Theatre churches & cathedrals headquarters, former 85 driving, see car travel shopping 149-50 Museum 71
food 96-7 Bla Bartk Memorial 73 Basilica of St Stephen communist rule 46-8 Dual Monarchy 44-5 walking tour 85-6, 85 Funfair Park 73
Aquincum Museum 59 House 61-2 Budapest Spring Festival 9 64, 39 Compromise of 1867 44 Ferencvros Summer
Arany, Jnos 21 Bla IV 38 Budapest Technical & Belgrade Cathedral 170-1 consulates 188 E Festival 9 G
architecture 19-21 Belgrade Cathedral 170-1 Economic Sciences Blagovetenska Church Contra Aquincum 64 economy 8, 12, 15 Ferihegy International galleries, see museums &
Art Nouveau 20-1, 85, Belvros 63-4, 88-90, 224 University 11 170 Corvin Film Palace 47 education 10-11, 12 Airport 180-1 galleries
86, 90, 2, 99, 102 accommodation 158-9 Budapest University of Capuchin church 58 Corvinus Gate 78 Eger 175-8, 109 festivals 8-10, see also gardens, see parks &
baroque 19 food 111-12 Economic Sciences 11 Cathedral of St Michael costs 6, 15, see also money Eger Art Gallery 175 holidays and special gardens
belle poque 44 shopping 143-6 Bulls Blood 177 174 accommodation 153 Eger Castle 175 events gardens (outdoor enter-
walking tour 88-90, 89 bus travel Cave Chapel 56 discount cards 187-8 Eger Cathedral 176, 176 Bridge Festival 9 tainment venues) 129
000 map pages Benczr, Gyula 21 fares & travel passes 182 Chapel of St George 174 food 92 Egger Villa 20 Budapest Autumn gay travellers 12, 188-9
000 photographs Bishops Palace 174 to/from Budapest 183 Church of St Teresa 84 taxes 193 electricity 188 Festival 10 venues 130
206 207
 Gellrt Hill 56-8, 220, 228-9 recent history 34-5 Inner Town 63-4, 88-90, 224 shopping 149-50 Liszt, Franz (Ferenc) 18 memorials, see monuments Museum of Fine Arts 71-2 Margit Kovcs Ceramic
accommodation 154-6 settlement of Budapest 37 accommodation 158-9 walking tour 85-6, 85 Ferenc Liszt Academy of & memorials museums & galleries Collection 170
food 94-5 to the 9th century 35-7 food 111-12 Music 21, 19 metro 184 Academy of Fine Arts 87 Medieval Jewish Prayer
Gellrt Thermal Baths 136, Turkish occupation 40-2 shopping 143-6 K Franz Liszt Memorial fares & travel passes 182 Applied Arts Museum 21, House 55
2, 105 WWI 44-5 walking tour 88-90, 89 Kdr, Jnos 47-8 Museum 71 Miksa Rth Memorial 69, 99, 102 Miksa Rth Memorial
Geology Institute 20 WWII 45-6 Inner Town Parish Church Kamermayer, Kroly literature 21-3, see also House 69, 102 Aquincum Museum 59 House 69, 102
Giergel, Klmn 21 holidays 189, see also 19, 64 statue 88 books Mikszth, Klmn 22 Astronomy Museum 176 Military History Museum
Gizella Chapel 174 festivals and special insurance, health 190 Kroly Palace 88 Lookout Gallery 81 Military Court of Justice 58 Baths Museum 79 56
Gdll 171-3 events International Circus Krolyi, Count Mihly 45 Lornd Etvs University of Military History Museum 56 Beethoven Memorial Mcsarnok (Palace of
Golden Bull 38 Holocaust Memorial 68 Festival 9 Kassk Museum 60 Science 10-11, 88 millenary exhibition 44 Museum 173 Art) 72, 103
Golden Eagle Pharmacy Holocaust Memorial Internet access 189-90 kayaking 138 University Library 88 Millenary Monument 71, 71 Bla Bartk Memorial Municipal Gallery 60
Museum 54 Center 69 Internet resources Keleti train station 85 Louis Fountain 58 Millennium Exhibition House 61-2 Museum Night 9
goulash socialism 48 Holy Right Chapel 64 entertainment 122 Kerepes Cemetery 74 Ludwig Museum of Con- Hall 59 Budapest History Museum of Fine Arts
government 16, 34, 35 Holy Trinity statue 78 media 14 Kertsz, Imre 23 temporary Art 21, 70 Millennium Park 59 Museum 54-5 71-2
Grassalkovich Mansion, see honfib 8 Iron Stump 58 Kirly Thermal Baths 58, Lukcs Baths 58, 136 minaret, Eger 176 Dreher Brewery & Beer Nagyttny Castle
Royal Mansion Hopp Museum of East Istvn Dob Museum 175 136, 105 Lutz, Carl 46, 84 Mindszenty, Cardinal Jzsef Museum 74 Museum 62
Great Migrations 36 Asian Art 70 Italian Institute of Culture Kiscelli Museum 60 Lyceum 176, 109 47, 66-7 Eger Art Gallery 175 Nursery Museum 173
Great Synagogue 68, 84 horse racing 140 85-6 klezmer 19 Ministry of Defence, Ethnography Museum Petfi Literary Museum
Gresham Palace 21, 66 horse riding 139 itineraries 51 Kodly krnd 88 M former 78 64-5 88
Gl Baba Horthy, Mikls 45 authors top day 4 Kodly, Zoltn 18 Madch, Imre 21 Minorite church 176, 109 Foundry Museum 58 Porcelnium 178
tomb 58-9, 101 Hortobgy csiks statue 79 castles & manor houses Zoltn Kodly Memorial magazines 191 Mithraism 61 Franz Liszt Memorial Postal Museum 72
statue 59 hostels 152 169 Museum 72 Magyars, the 36-8, 54 mobile/cell phones 194 Museum 71 Queen Gizella Museum
gyms 138 hotels 152-3 cathedrals 169 Konrd, Gyrgy 23 Makovecz, Imre 19 money 191 Golden Eagle Pharmacy 174
Gyrgy Rth Museum 71 House of Hungarian wine 169-70 Korb, Flris 21 mansions, see palaces & monuments & memorials Museum 54 Semmelweis Museum of
Gypsy music 18-19 Photographers 67 Krssy, Klmn Albert 20 mansions Bla Bartk Memorial Gyrgy Rth Museum 71 Medical History 57
House of Hungarian J Kossuth, Lajos 43, 76 maps 190 House 61-2 Holocaust Memorial Telephony Museum 56
H Wines 54 Jk Chapel 73 Kosztolnyi, Dezs 22 Mrai, Sndor 23 Beethoven Memorial Center 69 Transport Museum 73-4
Habsburg rule 41-2 House of Terror 47, 71 Jmbor, Lajos 20 Kovcs, Margit 170 Margaret Bridge 57 Museum 173 Hopp Museum of East Underground Railway
Habsburg Steps 78 Hungarian Academy of Jancs, Mikls 23 Kriesch, Aladr Krsfi 21 Margaret Island 62-3, 80-1, Carl Lutz monument 84 Asian Art 70 Museum 64
Hadik, Andrs 78 Sciences 66 jazz venues 132 Krdy, Gyula 23, 96 63, 218-19, 226-7 Centennial Monu- House of Hungarian Vasarely Museum 60
statue 78 Hungarian Agricultural Jewish Budapest 11, 84-5 Kun, Bla 45 accommodation 158 ment 80 Photographers 67 Zoltn Kodly Memorial
health 11 Museum 72 Great Synagogue 68, 84 walking tour 80-1, 81 Franz Liszt Memorial House of Terror 47, 71 Museum 72
Hegeds, rmin 20 Hungarian Holocaust Memorial 68 L Margit Kovcs Ceramic Museum 71 Hungarian Agricultural Zsigmond Kun Folk Art
Hercules Villa 59-60 Electrotechnology Holocaust Memorial language 12, 14-15, Collection 170 Holocaust Memorial 68 Museum 72 Collection 60
Herend 178 Museum 68-9 Center 69 197-202 markets, see also Eating Holocaust Memorial Hungarian Electro- Zwack Unicum Museum
Herendi, Gbor 24 Hungarian Museum of Jewish Museum 68 courses 187 and Shopping indexes Center 69 technology Museum & Visitor Centre 70
Hild, Jzsef 21 Commerce & Catering Jewish Summer Festival laundry 190 Chinese market 150 Independence Monu- 68-9 music 18-19, 2, see also
Hilton Budapest 76 55-6 10 Lechner, dn 20, 21, 69, 86 City Park flea market ment 57 Hungarian Museum of Entertainment index
history 33-48 Hungarian National Gallery Medieval Jewish Prayer Ldere Mansion 20 150 Miksa Rth Memorial Commerce & Catering Budapest Early Music
1703-11 War of 19, 21, 54-5, 55 House 55 Lehel church 83 Fny utca market 93 House 69, 102 55-6 Forum 9
Independence 42 Hungarian National buda Synagogue, lesbian travellers 12, 188-9 Hold utca market 93 Millenary Monument Hungarian National Gal- classical venues 130-1
1848-49 War of Museum 43, 69-70 former 79 venues 130 Lehel Csarnok 93 71, 71 lery 19, 21, 54-5, 55 Danube Folklore
Independence 21, 43 Hungarian Natural History Orthodox Synagogue 84 libraries Nagycsarnok 94, 149-50, Shoes on the Danube Hungarian National Carnival 9
1956 Uprising 47-8 Museum 70 Rumbach Sebestyn utca Ervin Szab Central 107, 110 memorial 66, 2 Museum 43, 69-70 Ferenc Liszt Academy of
rpd dynasty 38-9 Hungarian Radio head- Synagogue 84 Library 190 Rkczi tr market 93 Zoltn Kodly Memorial Hungarian Natural Music 21, 19
Index

Index
books 41 quarters, former 85 Shoes on the Danube Lornd Etvs University Martonvsr 173-4 Museum 72 History Museum 70 folk & traditional venues
communist rule 46-8 Hungarian Railway History memorial 66, 2 Library 88 Martonvsr Days 173 Mricz, Zsigmond 22 Hungarian Railway 131
conquest of the Park 74 jlak Synagogue 58 National Foreign Martyrs of Arad 43 motor racing 140 History Park 74 Gypsy 18-19
Carpathian Basin 36-8 Hungarian State Opera Jewish Museum 68 Language Library 190 Mary Magdalene Tower 77 Formula 1 Hungarian Imre Varga Exhibition instruments 19
Dual Monarchy 44-5 House 71, 9, 86 Jewish Summer Festival 10 National Szchenyi Matthias Church 21, 41, Grand Prix 9 House 60, 100 jazz & blues venues 132
end of communism 48 Jews, deportation of 46 Library 190 55, 155 Mcsarnok (Palace of Art) Istvn Dob Museum 175 opera 9, 18, 133
EU membership 34-5 I Jkai, Mr 21-2 Lindenbaum apartment Matthias Corvinus 40 72, 103 Jewish Museum 68 rock & pop venues
Habsburg rule 41-2, 44 Imre Varga Exhibition Jzsef, Attila 23 block 21, 99 Matthias Fountain 79 municipal council office 89 Kassk Museum 60 132-3
medieval Budapest 39-40 House 60, 100 Jzsefvros 69-70, 85-6, Liptvros 64-7, 222, 224 MV 87-8 Municipal Gallery 60 Kiscelli Museum 60 Sziget Music Festival 10
Independence Bridge 57 218-19, 222 accommodation 159-60 medical services 190-1 Municipal Great Circus 73 Lookout Gallery 81 Zwack Unicum Museum
000 map pages Independence Monument 57 accommodation 163-4 food 112-13 Medieval Jewish Prayer Munkcsy, Mihly 21 Ludwig Museum of Con- & Visitor Centre 70
000 photographs inline skating 139 food 116-17 shopping 146-7 House 55 Museum Night 9 temporary Art 21, 70 Musical Fountain 81
208 209
 N outer Pest districts 74, 216 porcelain 178 Crown of St Stephen 65 Medieval Jewish Prayer train travel 185 W Tropicarium-Oceanarium
Ndas, Pter 23 accommodation 165-6 Porcelnium 178 statue 78 House 55 fares & travel passes 182 walking tours 75-90 62
Nagy, Imre 46-7, 48, 66 shopping 150 Postal Museum 72 Sndor Palace 78 Orthodox Synagogue 84 HV 184 Andrssy t 86-8, 87 Zsigmond Kun Folk Art
statue 102 postal services 192 scams 193 Rumbach Sebestyn utca Nyugati train station 67 Belvros 88-90, 89 Collection 60
Nagycsarnok 94, 149-50, P Premonstratensian Church 81 sculpture 21 Synagogue 84 trams 185, 103 Castle Hill 76-9, 77 Zsolnay ceramics 20-1, 2
107, 110 painting 21 private rooms 153 Imre Varga Exhibition jlak Synagogue 58 fares & travel passes 182 Erzsbetvros 83-5, 84 Zwack Unicum Museum &
Nagyttny Castle Museum Palace of Miracles 73 Provosts Palace 176 House 60, 100 Szabadsg tr 66-7 Transport Museum 73-4 Jzsefvros & Visitor Centre 70
62 palaces & mansions public transport 182 Statue Park 62, 2 Szab, Istvn 23 travel agencies 195 Ferencvros 85-6, 85
name days 12 Bank Palace 90 fares & travel passes 182 self-catering 93 Szab, Magda 23 Treaty of Trianon 45, 46 Margaret Island 80-1, 81 EATING
National Archives 76 Bishops Palace 174 pubs 29, 30, see also bars Semmelweis Museum of Szchenyi, Count Istvn Trinity Column, Veszprm buda 79-80, 80 Al-Amir 115
National Dance House Brunswick Mansion 173 Medical History 57 42-3 174, 109 organised 52-3 Alhambra 113
Meeting & Fair 9 Egger Villa 20 Q Semmelweis University of statue 66 trolleybuses 186 Szent Istvn krt Aranysrkny 171
National Dance Theatre 78 Gresham Palace 21, 66 Queen Gizella Museum 174 Medicine 11 Szchenyi Chain Bridge 57, fares & travel passes 182 82-3, 82 Aranyszarvas 94, 94
National Foreign Language Kroly Palace 88 Quittne, Zsigmond 21 Serbian Orthodox church 55, 99, 101, 103 Tropicarium-Oceanarium Wallenberg, Raoul 46, 68 Arcade 97
Library 190 Ldere Mansion 20 88 Szchenyi Thermal Baths 62 statue 82 Articska 113-14
National Institute for the New York Palace 85, 99 R serviced apartments 153 136, 104, 105 turul 37 War of Independence Bagolyvr 119
Blind 20 Palace of Miracles 73 radio 14 Shoes on the Danube Szkely, Bertalan 21 statue 78 1703-11 42 Bangkok House 111
National Szchenyi Library Provosts Palace 176 Rainbow Alley 88 memorial 66, 2 Szent Istvn krt 67, TV 14 1848-49 21, 43 BioPont 116
190 Royal Mansion 171-2, 172 Rkczi, Ferenc 41-2 shopping 141-50 82-3, 222 Twelve Points 43 Washington, George Butterfly 93
National Theatre 70 Royal Palace 53, 78, 55 Rkosi, Mtys 46-7 customs regulations 146 accommodation 160-2 statue 73 Caf Kr 112
New Municipal Cemetery Sndor Palace 78 religion 11 opening hours 142 shopping 147-8 U water polo 13, 140 Caf Mokka 112
74 Sonnenberg Mansion 20 Republic of Councils 44-5 streets & areas 142 walking tour 82-3, 82 jlak Synagogue 58 Watertown 58-9, 220 Caf Piazza 175
New Theatre 86 Vidor Villa 20 Republic of Hungary 34-5 skating 139 Szentendre 170-1, 109 jliptvros 67, 82, 218- accommodation 156-7 Caf Pierrot 94
New Years Day Concert 9 Palatinus swimming pools Rippl-Rnai, Jzsef 21 soccer 13, 140 Sziget Music Festival 10 19, 222 food 95-6 Carmel Pince 115
New York Palace 85, 99 63, 137 road rules 184 Sonnenberg Mansion 20 Szivrvny kz 88 food 113-15 shopping 143 Central European University
newspapers 13-14, 191 Palatinus House 82 rock music venues 132-3 spas, see thermal baths Underground Railway websites cafeteria 119
Northern Inner Town 64-7, Plfi, Gyrgy 24 Roman Budapest 79-80 special events, see also T Museum 64 media 14 Cslk Csrda 116
222, 224 plinka 30, 30 Aquincum Museum 59 festivals and holidays Tabn 56-8, 220 Unicum 30, 70 entertainment 122 Dli Kinai Gyorstterem 98
accommodation 159-60 paprika 28-9 Contra Aquincum 64 Budapest International accommodation 154-6 universities 10-11, 66, 187 White House 82 Durcin 119
food 112-13 Parish Church of St John 170 Hercules Villa 59-60 Marathon 10 food 94-5 University Church 88 wine 29, 30-2 den 94
shopping 146-7 parks & gardens Roman civilian amphi- Crafts Celebration 10 tnchz 19 Uprising of 1956 47-8 books 28 Elefnt Bisztr 175
Nursery Museum 173 Botanical Garden 72 theatre 80 Formula 1 Hungarian taxes 193 US Embassy 66 Budapest International Elefanto 177
Nyugati train station 67, Brunswick Mansion 173 Roman military Grand Prix 9 taxis 184-5 Wine Fair 10 Ezred Nonstop 93
83, 83 Erzsbet tr 83 amphitheatre 60, 36 Museum Night 9 tea 30 V Bulls Blood 177 Falafel Faloda 119
Parliament 65, 44, 103 Roosevelt tr 65-6, 66 name days 12 teahouses 128 Valley of the Beautiful Eger 176-7 Fatl 111
O Pasha Abdi Arnaut Abdur- Rth, Miksa 21 New Years Day Concert 9 Telephone Exchange Women 176-7 festivals 32 Fausto 115-16
buda 59-60, 79-80 rahmans tomb 77 Miksa Rth Memorial Opera Ball 9 building 86 Varga, Imre 21, 80 House of Hungarian Fny utca market 93
food 96-7 Pater Noster lifts 65, 90 House 69, 102 spectator sports 139-40 telephone services 193-4 Imre Varga Exhibition Wines 54 Firksz 114, 110
walking tour 79-80, 80 pensions 153 Royal Mansion 171-2, 172 Spiegel, Frigyes 20-1 Telephony Museum 56 House 60, 100 itineraries 169-70 Fortuna nkiszolgl 98
buda Parish Church 19, 79 people 10, see also Royal Palace 53, 78, 55 sports 13, see also tennis 139 Vasarely, Victor 21 La Boutique des Vins 110 Fzelk Fal 119
buda Synagogue, former population Royal Postal Savings Bank, individual sports Terzvros 67, 222 Vasarely Museum 60 Valley of the Beautiful Frici Papa Kifzdje 119,
79 Pest county hall 89 former 21, 67 Budapest International accommodation 160-2 Vrmez 42 Women 176-7 107
opening hours, see business Petfi, Sndor 21, 43 Rzsavlgyi House Marathon 10 food 113-15 Veszprm 174-5 women travellers 195-6 Fuji 97
hours Petfi Literary Museum 88 apartment block 89 Formula 1 Hungarian shopping 147-8 Veszprm Cathedral 109 work 196 Flemle 116-17
opera 18 pharmacies 191 Rumbach Sebestyn utca Grand Prix 9 Thlia theatre 87 Veszprm Valley Convent Worlds End 174 Gasztr Hs-Hentesru 98
Index

Index
Opera Ball 9 Philanthia 20, 90 Synagogue 84 squash 139 theatre venues 134 174 WWI 44-5 Goa 118
venues 133 philosophy 8, 11 Statue Park 62, 2 theft 192 video 191-2 WWII 45-6 Govinda 112
orientation 50-1, 50 photography 191-2 S Stephen I 38-9, see also St thermal baths 135-6 Vidor Villa 20 Gresham Kvhz 112-13
street addresses 76 House of Hungarian safe travel 192-3 Stephen Thonet House 90 Vidor, Emil 20 Y Han kuk Guan 119
Orthodox Synagogue 84 Photographers 67 St Annes Church 19, 58 statue of King Stephen & Timr, Pter 24 Vienna Gate 76 Ybl, Mikls 21 Hanna 116
outer Buda districts 62, pickpocketing 192-3 St Florian Chapel 58 Queen Gizella 174 time 6, 194 visas 195 Youth of March 21, 43 Hrom Testvr 119
216 Plague Cross 170 St Gellrt statue 57 suicide 11 tipping 92, 194 Vzivros 58-9, 220 Hold utca market 93
accommodation 157-8 Planetarium 73 St Johns Cathedral 175 swimming pools 136-8, see Trk Bank House 20 accommodation 156-7 Z Holly 120
shopping 143 police services 188 St Stephen, see also also Entertainment index tourist information 194-5 food 95-6 Zoltn Kodly Memorial Iguana 113
politics 16, 34, 35 Stephen I synagogues & prayer tours 51-3 shopping 143 Museum 72 Il Treno 98
000 map pages Pollack, Mihly 21 Basilica of St Stephen houses around Budapest 169 Vrsmarty, Mihly zoos & aquariums z- Faloda 98
000 photographs population 6, 10 64, 39 Great Synagogue 68, 84 walking 52-3, 75-90 statue 90 City Zoo 72 Kacsa 95
210 211
 Kdr 120 Pizza Palazzo 173 Birdland 127 Jailhouse 132 Teahz a Vrs Kdex 146 Boat Hotel Fortuna 160 Hotel Griff Junior 158
Kaisers Szupermarket 93 Postakocsi 174 Budapest Congress Centre Janis Pub 124 Oroszlnhoz 128 Kzponti Antikvrium 144 Bkks 171 Hotel Hold 159
Kama Sutra 113 Pozsonyi Kisvendgl 115 130 Jazz Garden 132 Thermal bath, Hotel La Boutique des Vins 146, Burg Hotel 154 Hotel Kulturinnov 154
Krolyi tterem 111 Premier 118 Budapest Operetta 133 Jzsef Katona Theatre 134 Margitsziget 136 110 Bro Panzi 157 Hotel Liget 165
Krptia 111 Promenade 171 Budapest Puppet Kamleon 129 Traf Br Tang 130 Lekvrium 149 Carlton Hotel 156 Hotel Margitsziget 158
Kastlykert 173 Rkczi tr market 93 Theatre 73 Kt Szerecsen 128 Traf House of Contem- Libri Knyvpalota 149 Carmen Mini Hotel 162 Hotel Orion 155
Khli 96 Remz 98 Caf Csiga 127 Kirly Thermal Baths 58, porary Arts 135 Liszt Ferenc Zenembolt Caterina Hostel 161 Hotel Platnus 165
Keleti Sarok 93 Rivalda 94 Caf Eklektika 123 136, 105 Tzraktr 133 150 Centrum 171 Hotel Rila 164
Kpr 111 Robinson 119 Caf Mir 127 Kisrabl 123 Upside Down 130 Magma 144 Charles Hotel & Apart- Hotel Sissi 164
Kinor David 116 Rothschild 93 Caf Ponyvaragny 127, 127 Kzgz Pince Klub 129 Urnia National Cinema Magyar Plinka Hz ment 157 Hotel Thomas 164
Kisbuda Gyngye 96 Rozmaring 97 Caf Vian 127 Kultiplex 124 134, 134 149, 30 Citadella Hotel 154 Hotel Ventura 157
Kisharang 120 Seoul House 96 Castro Bisztr 127 Lnchd Srz 123 West Balkan Club Bar 130 Mammut 143 City Hotel Ring 160 Hotel Victoria 156
La Fontaine 113 Shalimar 116 Central Europe Dance Laser Theatre 132 Wigwam Rock & Blues Mom Park 143 Congress Park Hotel Ibis Centrum Hotel 164
Le Jardin de Paris 95 Shiraz 117 Theatre 135 Lukcs caf 126, 106 Club 133 Monarchia 144 Flamenco 157 IBS Garden Hotel 157
Lehel Csarnok 93 Soho Palacsintabr 120 Centrl Kvhz 125 Lukcs Swimming Pool 136 Monarchia Borszati 149 Corinthia Grand Hotel Royal Ilona 171
Leroy Caf 96 Soul Caf 117 Cha Cha Cha 123-4 Lukcs Thermal Baths 137 SHOPPING Mountex 150 162, 162 K+K Hotel Opera 160
Lou Lou 113 Spinoza Caf 116, 114 Champs Sport Bar 124 M4 Music Club 132 Ajka Kristly 147 Ndortex 147 Corvin Hotel 163 Kempinski Hotel Corvinus
Macska 174 Spoon 112 City Park Ice-skating Merlin Theatre 134 Anna Antikvits 147 Nagycsarnok 149-50, 107, Danubius Gellrt Hotel 155 158
Magdalena Merlo 116 Stex Alfred 117 rink 139 Mozaik Teahz 128 Arten Stdi 143 110 Danubius Grand Hotel Kings Hotel 162
Maharaja 96 Sushi An 112 Club Bohemian Alibi 129 MU Sznhz 135 Babaklinika 144 Nray Tams 145 Margitsziget 158 Le Meridien Budapest
Malign 96-7 Szntfer 177 Club Vittula 129, 106 Mvsz 126, 133 Balogh Kesty 144 Nyugat Antikvrium 147 Dominik Panzi 165 158-9
Malomt 95 Szent Jupt 96 Columbus Jazzklub 132 Mystery Bar 124 BV 147 Pendragon 147-8 Downtown Hostel 159 Le Panzi 159
Marcello 94 Szp Ilona 98 Comedy Theatre 134 National Dance Theatre 135 Belvrosi Aukcishz 144 Pintr Antik 148 Eastside Hostel 161 Macska 174
Maros Srz 95 Szerj 120 Corvin Film Palace 133 National Theatre 70, 134 Bestsellers 146 Porcelnhz 145 Fortuna Hotel 164 Marco Polo Hostel 163,
Marquis de Salade 114 Tabni Terasz 95 Cotton Club 132 Negro 128 Bibliotka Antikvrium 150 Red Bus Secondhand Four Seasons Gresham 107, 164
Marxim 95 Taiwan 117 Coxx Pub 124 buda Society 131 Billerbeck 148 Bookstore 145 Palace Hotel 159, 160 Martos Hostel 156
Match 93 Taverna Pireus Rembetiko Csillaghegy Swimming rkmozg Film Museum Budapest Wine Society 143 Rzsavlgyi s trsa 145 Galria 173 Medosz Hotel Budapest 160
Mei Shi Lin 173 112 Pool 137 134 Central European University Selene Lovas Bolt 145 Garibaldi Guesthouse 160 Mellow Mood Central
Mennyei zek 97 Toldi tkezde 111 Dagly Swimming Pool 137 Oscar American Bar 123 Bookshop 146 Sporthorgsz 143 GATE College 173 Guesthouse 159
Menza 114, 27, 107 Tom-George 113 Darshan Udvar 124 Palace of Arts 131 Chinese market 150 Szmos Marcipn 145 Golden Park Hotel 163 Mercure Hotel Budapest
Mzes Kuck 93 Trattoria Toscana 112 Daubner Cukrszda 125 Palatinus Swimming Pools Cinkli 148 Sznyi Antikvriuma 148, Green Bridge Hostel 159 Museum 162-3
Mini Coop 93 Trofa Grill 115 Demmers Teahz 128 137 City Park flea market 150 106, 148 Hilton Budapest 154, 155 Mercure Nemzeti 164
Momotaro Ramen 111 j Lanzhou 96 Duna Palota 130 Plvlgy Cave 139 Concerto Hanglemezbolt Tang Classic 145 Hilton West End 160 Millennium Court 159
Mongolian Barbecue 95 j Spos Halszkert 97 Erkel Theatre 133 Paris Texas 124 149 Thomas Sabo 145 Hostel Bakfark 157 Minaret 178
Mri Kisvendgl 114 Vegetarium 112 Erzsbet Hd Eszpressz 123 Pesti Vigad 131 Drius 147 Timpanon 143 Hostel Hill 155 Museum Guest House 163
Mosselen 114 Vogue 115 Fat Mos Music Club 132 Petnehzy Lovascentrum Duna Plaza 150 Vass 146 Hostel Kinizsi 164 NH Budapest 161
Mzeum 117 Vrs s Fehr 118, 118 Fehr Gyr 124 139 Ecseri piac 150 Wave Music 148 Hostel Landler 155 Oliva 175
Nagy Fal 120 Vrs Postakocsi 117-18 Ferenc Liszt Academy of Piaf 129 Folkart Centrum 144 West End City Centre 148, Hostel Rzsa 156 Oriental Hotel 165
Nagy Tams 93 Wasabi 97 Music 131 Picasso Point 124 Haas & Czjzek 147 106 Hostel Schnherz 156 Papillon Hotel 157
Nagycsarnok 94, 107, 110 Fon Buda Music House Poco Loco 123 Hephaistos 144 Zsolnay 146 Hostel Universitas 156 Pter Pl 175
Nagyi Palacsintzja 98 ENTERTAINMENT 131 Ptkulcs 125 Herend 142 Hostel Vsrhelyi 156 Peters Apartments 161-2
Nncsi Nni 97 1000 Tea 128 Frhlich 125 Rmaifrd Swimming Herend Village Pottery 143 SLEEPING Hotel Art 158 Radio Inn 165
Napfnyes zek 118 A38 Haj 132 Gellrt Swimming Pool 137 Pool 137 Holl Atelier 144, 145 10 Beds 163 Hotel Astra 154 Red Bus Hostel 159
Nefrit 97-8 Action Bar 123 Gellrt Thermal Baths 136, Rudas Swimming Pool 137 House of Hungarian Wines Andrssy Hotel 164 Hotel Baross 162 Residence Izabella 165
Nyugati ABC 93 Alfrd Hajs Swimming 2, 105 Rudas Thermal Baths 136 143 Aquarium Youth Hostel Hotel Benczr 165 Romantik 178
Index

Index
cen Br & Grill 111-12 Pool 137 Gerbeaud 125, 90 Ruszwurm 125 Hungaricum 143 163 Hotel Csszr 156 Senator Hz 178
Okay Italia 115 Almssy Tr Recreation Gerlczy Kvhz 127 Sark Caf 130 Iguana 149 Artotel Budapest 156, 156 Hotel Dlibb 165 Star Hotel 163
vros 175 Centre 131 Gdr Klub 132 Satchmo 132 Intuita 144 Atlas Hotel 163 Hotel Domina Fiesta 162 Starlight Suiten Hotel 160
Palapa 171 Angel 128 Grzenl Roller-Skating Sss Fl Nap 130 rk Boltja 150 Back Pack Guesthouse 157 Hotel Erzsbet 158 Station Guesthouse 166
Palatscintavr 177 Angelika 125 Park 139 Szalai 126 Jtkszerek Anno 147 Beatrix Panzi 157 Hotel Flandria 166 Sydney Apartment Hotel
Pata Negra 117 Aranytz Cultural Centre 131 Hauer Cukrszda 126 Szchenyi Swimming Kieselbach Galria 147 Best Hostel 161 Hotel Glit 166 161
Pesti Vendgl 115 Auguszt 125 Hlia Swimming Pool 137 Pool 138
Pick Hz 120 Ballet Cip 127 Hungarian State Opera Szchenyi Thermal Baths
Pink Cadillac 117 Bank Dance Hall 128 House 71, 133, 9, 86 136, 104, 105
Becketts 123 Incognito caf 128 Szemlhegy Cave 139
000 map pages Bla Komjdi Swimming International Buda Stage Szimpla 125
000 photographs Pool 137 134 Szindbd 134
212 213
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9am GREENLAND KARA
Novaya Zemlya Ostrovo (Russia)
Sun

Sun
SEA SEA LAPTEV

Mon
Mon

BAFFIN
Banks Is BAY Greenland (Russia) SEA
CHUKCHI BEAUFORT (Denmark) EAST SIBERIAN
SEA SEA (Can) SEA
Victoria Is 11am BARENTS
(Can) NORWEGIAN SEA
SEA
Russia Alaska Baffin Is
(US) (Can) Sweden 12am
5am Iceland 1pm 2pm 7pm 9pm 11pm
3am 4am NORTH Finland
HUDSON SEA
Norway 10pm
BAY
3pm
BERING 4pm 5pm Russia
SEA LABRADOR
Canada SEA United Latvia SEA 3am
GULF OF Denmark BERING
8am Kingdom OF
ALASKA OKHOTSK SEA
2am 6am NORTH Ireland Poland Belarus 2am
ATLANTIC Germany 4pm 6pm
8.30am Ukraine
7am OCEAN Austria Kazakhstan
France Romania Mongolia

Italy Uzbekistan
Azores 4pm Kyrgyzstan North Korea
Spain

Date Line
United States (Port) Turkmenistan
Date Line

Portugal Greece Turkey

International
International

China South NORTH

NORTH Tunisia MEDITERRANEAN Syria Iran Afghanistan Korea Japan PACIFIC
Bermuda Morocco SEA Iraq 8pm
1am PACIFIC (UK) 3.30pm4.30pm Tibet (China) OCEAN
Midway Is OCEAN Canary Is 2pm 5pm Nepal
(US) (Sp) Algeria Pakistan 5.45 EAST
GULF OF Libya Saudi pm CHINA
MEXICO The Bahamas Egypt India
Mexico 1pm Arabia 6.30 Taiwan SEA
Cuba 4pm pm Northern
Haiti Mauritania Niger Oman
5.30 Myanmar Mariana
Hawaii Eastern
pm 6pm Is (US) Marshall
CARIBBEAN Caribbean Cape 12pm Mali Eritrea Yemen
9pm Is (US)
(US) Guatemala Islands Verde Chad BAY OF
Thailand
SEA Senegal Burkina
Nicaragua Sudan ARABIAN BENGAL Philippines 12am
Guinea Faso SEA Vietnam
Nigeria Ethiopia 5.30pm
Panama Venezuela Guyana Federated States
Liberia Ghana Central African 3pm Sri Lanka
Republic Palau of Micronesia Kiribati
Galapagos Is Colombia Suriname GULF OF Somalia Maldives Malaysia 11am
EQUATOR (Ecuador) GUINEA Congo Kenya Nauru EQUATOR
Ecuador Gabon 1pm Congo Indonesia
Kiribati (Zaire) Papua New
Tanzania Guinea SOUTH
8am Ascension (UK) East
Samoa Seychelles 6.30 Solomon Is PACIFIC
2.30am Peru 4pm pm Timor OCEAN
Brazil 9am Angola
7am Malawi Cocos (Keeling)
French Zambia Is (Aust) Vanuatu
Tahiti Madagascar
Tonga Cook Is Polynesia Bolivia Mauritius
(Fr) SOUTH Namibia Zimbabwe Fiji
(NZ) INDIAN OCEAN 9.30
12am 2am ATLANTIC Botswana Mozambique Reunion New Caledonia (Fr)
Pitcairn Is 3.30am Easter Is Paraguay (Fr) pm
OCEAN
1am (UK) (Chile) Australia 11.30
10.30 pm
South pm Norfolk Is
Chile Uruguay Africa Lord Howe (Aust)
Is (Aust)
New Argentina Tristan da Cunha
Zealand (UK)
Gough Is
12.45am SOUTH (UK) New Zealand
Chatham Is PACIFIC Prince Edward Is TASMAN
OCEAN French Southern & SEA
(NZ) (S. Africa) Antarctic Territories (Fr)
South Georgia & Bouvet Is Heard & SOUTHERN OCEAN
Falkland Is South Sandwich Is (Norway) McDonald Is
(UK) (UK) (Aust)

12am 1am 2am 3am 4am 5am 6am 7am 8am 9am 10am 11am 12pm 1pm 2pm 3pm 4pm 5pm 6pm 7pm 8pm 9pm 10pm 11pm 12am

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Lonely Planet Publications

215
 Lonely Planet Publications
MAP LEGEND
ROUTES
Tollway One-Way Street
Freeway Mall/Steps
Primary Road Tunnel
Secondary Road Walking Tour
Tertiary Road Walking Tour Detour
Lane Walking Trail
Under Construction Walking Path
Track Pedestrian Overpass
Unsealed Road
TRANSPORT
Ferry Rail
Metro Tram
Bus Route Cable Car, Funicular

HYDROGRAPHY
River, Creek Water

BOUNDARIES
International Regional, Suburb
State, Provincial Ancient Wall

AREA FEATURES
Airport Forest
Area of Interest Land
Beach, Desert Mall
Building, Featured Park
Building, Information Reservation
Building, Other Rocks
Building, Transport Sports
Cemetery, Christian Urban
POPULATION
CAPITAL (NATIONAL) CAPITAL (STATE)
Large City Medium City
Small City Town, Village
SYMBOLS
Sights/Activities Eating Information
Beach Eating Bank, ATM
Castle, Fortress
Drinking Embassy/Consulate
Drinking Hospital, Medical
Christian Caf Information
Jewish
Entertainment Internet Facilities
Entertainment Police Station
Monument Shopping
Post Office, GPO
Museum, Gallery Shopping
Sleeping Telephone
Other Site Sleeping Geographic
Ruin Transport Lookout
Bus Station Mountain, Volcano
Swimming Pool National Park
General Transport
Zoo, Bird Sanctuary Parking Area River Flow

Budapest & Environs 216

Maps
Buda & Pest 218
Castle Hill & Watertown 220
Central Pest 222
Belvros (Inner Town) 224
buda, Aquincum & Angyalfld 226
South Buda & Ferencvros 228
Budapest Metro, Rail & Tram Routes 230
214


0 2 km
BUDAPEST & ENVIRONS BUDA & PEST (pp21819)

0 1 mile

To Esztergom (46km);
Komrom (85km) Csillaghegy See buda, Aquincum &
A B To Szentendre C Angyalfld Map (pp2267) D

Bp-rm (19km) F
Aranyhegy Rmaifrd To Vc ti
v (34km) t SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES (pp4974) Fny utca Market..................................50 B3 City Park Flea Market.........................(see 95)

10 Alfrd Hajs National Sports Pool........... 1 C2 Firksz..................................................51 D2 Herend Village Pottery.......................100 C3

Vci t
11
jpest Anonymous Statue.................................2 F2 Gasztr Hs-Hentesru........................52 C2 Mammut I Shopping Mall...................101 B3
buda v

Aquincum Applied Arts Museum.............................3 E6 Han Kuk Guan.....................................53 G3 Mammut II Shopping Mall..................102 B3
1 Aquincum fels vm IV Aviation Museum...............................(see 95) Il Treno................................................54 A4 MOM Park Shopping Mall.................103 A5
2
Kaszsdl Bla Komjdi Swimming Pool.................4 C2 z- Faloda...........................................55 A3 Monarchia Borszati...........................104 E6
BVSC......................................................5 G1 Kacsa....................................................56 C3 Mountex.............................................105 E2

Bcs

r
Calvinist Church (City Park)....................6 F3 Keleti Sarok...........................................57 F4 Museum of Fine Arts Office................106 E2

Rive
i t
Aquincum jpest-Vroskapu
Np sziget Centennial Monument...........................7 C2 Lanzhou................................................58 F4 Pendragon.........................................107 D2
Hrmashatr- City Park Ice-Skating Rink Lehel Csarnok......................................59 D2 Sporthorgsz......................................108 B3

ube
hegy (495m) II Kaszsdl (Winter Only)...................................... 8 F2 Malomt..............................................60 B2
Istvntelek To Gdll (28km);

Dan
Filatorigt City Zoo & Botanical Garden...................9 F2 Maros Srz........................................61 A4 SLEEPING (pp15166)
Miskolc (180km)
Egger Villa.............................................10 F3 Marxim.................................................62 B3 Andrssy Hotel...................................109 F3

ndrei t

Angyalfld
Fels-Kecske- buda Island v Ferenc Hopp Museum of East Mongolian Barbecue............................63 A5 Aquarium Youth Hostel......................110 F4
Gyngysi u
hegy (443m) Tbor-hegy (budai-sziget) Asian Art.............................................11 F3 Mri Kisvendgl..................................64 D2 Atlas Hotel..........................................111 F5
Hr gyi t
he

Szente
(396m) V Former Communist Party Headquarters..12 F4 Nagyi Palacsintzja.............................65 B3 Boat Hotel Fortuna.............................112 D2
ma

Remetehgy r
sha

sv
ri
Former Telephone Exchange Building....13 F5 Napfnyes zek.....................................66 E3 Bro Panzi........................................113 A3
tr-

Remete-hegy t Foundry Museum.................................14 B3 Nefrit....................................................67 A5 Dominik Panzi..................................114 G3

III Forgch u Franciscan Church & Monastery Ruins..15 C1 Pink Cadillac.........................................68 E6 Golden Park Hotel..............................115 F4

eu
(351m) rpd hd
2 BUDA Funfair Park..........................................16 F2 Pozsonyi Kisvendgl............................69 D2 Hostel Bakfark....................................116 B3

Bk
Buda Hills Angyalfld

t
Geology Institute.................................. 17 G3 Premier.................................................70 E3 Hotel Baross........................................117 F4

Vci
XIII
Sz

Mtys-hegy George Washington Statue...................18 F2 Rkczi tr Market................................71 E5 Hotel Benczr.....................................118 F3

p

u (300m) Tmr u
v

pk XIV Gl Baba's Tomb..................................19 B2 Robinson...............................................72 F2 Hotel Csszr......................................119 B2

lg

Csep rpd
yi

jlak Shiraz...................................................73 E6 Hotel Dlibb......................................120 F2

R Gyrgy Rth Museum...........................20 F3

T 13 9 hd
t

r be
rt Hlia Thermal Spa & Pools....................21 D1 Stex Alfred............................................74 E5 Hotel Glit.........................................121 F1
14 kvsz Vzafog K See Buda & Pest Map (pp21819)
u

ro Hungarian Agricultural Museum...........22 F2 Szent Jupt.......................................(see 113) Hotel Liget..........................................122 F2

Zldml
Lajos

Szpvlgyi t ly
t

t
To Nncsi

i
Ferenc-hegy Dzsa kr Rkosrendez 12 International House Language School...23 B2 Toldi tkezde........................................75 B3 Hotel Margitsziget..............................123 C1
Nni (4km) t

r
1 Margaret Island Gyrgy t Jk Chapel............................................24 F2 Trofa Grill........................................... 76 D2 KM Saga Guest Residence..................124 D6

m
(265m)
(Margit-sziget)
u
H

Cs
Kirly Baths..........................................25 C3 j Lanzhou...........................................77 C3 Papillon Hotel.....................................125 B2
py
v

Trkvsz Na
t

T Lportrdl gy To Favorit
sv

Lukcs Baths.........................................26 C2 Vogue..................................................78 D1 Peters Apartments.............................126 D2

Ka

ro Felhvz Laj

u
Vci

Lovarda
lg

t gat on Vrhalom u os Miksa Rth Memorial House.................27 F4 Radio Inn............................................127 F3

y

r el Mexiki t kir (6.5km)

i

eh Szchenyi
or
t

Szh 11 b Rzsadomb L aly Military Court of Justice & F utca DRINKING (pp1238) Red Bus 2...........................................128 F4
Pa

G frd t
t er Herminamez t
s

Hsk ja Auguszt................................................79 A3 Star Hotel...........................................129 F3
ar

Budakeszi t
10 ly Prison...............................................28 C3
Margit tere k

Hu
Sz
ti

Rzmal See Central Pest Map (p222) Millenary Monument............................29 F2 Caf Csiga............................................80 E5 Station Guesthouse............................130 H3
i
To Chair Lift lgy h

ng
hd
t

6 City Park T
3 (3km); Demmers Teahouse.............................81 A3 Sydney Apartment Hotel....................131 D2

r
iE Nyugati Train Bajza t (Vrosliget) Millennium Exhibition Hall....................30 A3
B U D A

ia
rzs VI
b 3 Station sy Millennium Park....................................31 B3 Hauer Cukrszda..................................82 E4

kr
Petnehzy utca
s Zugl Train
D

t
t
et
Lovascentrum fasor See Castle Hill & Watertown Kodly dr Station Municipal Great Circus..........................32 F2 Kultiplex...............................................83 E6 TRANSPORT (pp1806)

di
z

An
sa

r
(3km) Map (p220) Liptvros krnd

yo
2 Terzvros VII Museum of Fine Arts.............................33 F2 Oscar American Bar..............................84 B3 Hungarian Automobile Club...............132 B2
Gy

og
Kossuth

M
r

Cog Railway Moszkva Vzivros Vrsmarty Mcsarnok (Palace of Art)....................34 F2 Paris, Texas...........................................85 E6 Malv Customer Service Centre......... 133 D2
Lajos tr To New Municipal
gy

Isten tr utca
Batthyny V Arany Oktogon PEST Cemetery (4.5km); National Institute for the Blind..............35 G2 Poco Loco Pub......................................86 C1 Stadionok Bus Station........................ 134 H4
t

he Ferenc
t gyi tr Jnos
Keleti Pusks Gdll (27km); Palace of Miracles.................................36 E2 Szna tr Bus Station..........................135 B3
To Szchenyi-hegy utca VIII Stadium Miskolc (180km)
Dli Train Raoul Wallenberg Memorial.................37 D2 ENTERTAINMENT (pp12840)

(1.2km) See Belvros (Inner Erzsbet- Station Almssy tr Recreation Centre..............87 E4 INFORMATION
Train vros Stadionok St Florian Chapel..................................38 C3

Etvs Station Town) Map (p224) Kerepesi t Stacikli Bike Rental..............................39 C2 Budapest Congress Centre....................88 A5 Australian Embassy............................ 136 A5

Alb
5
Strom

t Royal
Central Europe Dance Theatre..............89 F3 Austrian Consulate..............................137 E3

Hungria krt
Sonnenberg Mansion............................40 E2

ertir
Palace IVrsmarty Dek
Alkots u

t Blaha Lujza Szchenyi Baths....................................41 F2 Cha Cha Cha Terasz.............................90 C2 Canadian Embassy..............................138 B3
feld A

Ferenc tr
Fiu

Kerepes Cemetery

sai
tr i tr
Pag cz Top Squash......................................(see 101) Corvin Film Palace................................91 E6 Croatian Consulate.............................139 E2
me

(Kerepesi temet)
ony Rk

t
u Belvros X
url

Jzsefvros 4 Transport Museum............................... 42 G2 Erkel Theatre.........................................92 F4 Cybercaf Zone................................(see 102)

t

Ferenciek Astoria Ligettelek

Jzsefvrosi pu jlak Synagogue...................................43 C1 Kamleon.........................................(see 102) Dli Gygyszertr...............................140 A4
Jzsef krt

Tabn
t

tere
Farkasrt Kzgz Pince Klub................................93 D6 Dutch Embassy...................................141 B2
t

Vajdahunyad Castle...........................(see 22)

Nmetvlgy Gellrt Hill Klvin tr Vidor Villa.............................................44 F3 Marczibnyi tr Cultural Centre............94 A2 FirstMed Centers................................142 B3
jt

See South Buda & Ferencvros

Le

Map (pp2289) Petfi Csarnok......................................95 G2 French Consulate................................143 F2

Citadella IX Ferenc krt EATING (pp91120) West Balkan Club Bar...........................96 E6 Post Office..........................................144 F4
Farkasrti temet
Da

ll
Orczy t

XII i Arcade................................................. 45 A5 Private Link.........................................145 E5

krt
nu

t
Da

Trkblinti t SHOPPING Romanian Consulate..........................146 G3

n

Klinikk Bagolyvr..............................................46 F2 (pp14150)

b

Vil
yk

lm
eR

ln To Dreher Cslk Csrda.......................................47 F4 BV Branch..........................................97 C2 Serbia & Montenegro Consulate.........147 F2

aG

yi
sK

7 Ferencvros Brewery (2km)

ive

t Dli Kinai Gyorstterem........................48 A4 Budapest Wine Society Shop.................98 B3 Ukrainian Consulate...........................148 G3

b

Borros tr
yve
r
or

Durcin Branch.......................................49 A3 Cinkli.................................................99 F4 Wasteels.............................................149 F4

Kn

Nagyvrad Npliget
u

Sasad
t

Haller u tr Npliget
rsi

ll
a

i
Ga

d
Sa

t
Bu
zd

krt
sa

XI Ecseri t
ag

National n
d

ti lm
i
r

Theatre
Knyves K
t

t
t
Budafoki t
t

vri

ri
t
mi

e
Ecs

Kelenfld Vghd v
Fehr

5
Szer

To Gyr (123km); Kelenfoldi

So

Vienna (275km)
Lgymnyos To Ferihegy International
i t
ro

pu Airport (21km);
ars
ks

1 Bud SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES (pp4974) Debrecen (227km)

ri

Bla Bartk Memorial House........1 A3 Bethy u f vm

t

M1 M7 7 Cog Railway Terminus.................2 A3

Hotel Budapest............................3 A3 ENTERTAINMENT (pp12840)
Szabadkikt t

To Lake Balaton Kerepes Cemetery....................... 4 D4 International Buda Stage..........(see 11) To Bozsik Stadium (3.5km);
(75km); Eg Kincsem Park...............................5 D4
ni t

r t Kecskemt (86km)
Sifok
(106km) Kelenvlgy Pasart Sport Centre....................6 A3 SLEEPING (pp15166) t M5
5
Balato

Queenybus..................................7 A4 Beatrix Panzi..........................(see 11) t r

Albertfalva
Vrosmajor Tennis Academy........8 A3
Csepel Island
IBS Garden Hotel....................... 11 A3 Ha E75
(Csepel-sziget)
Pesterzsbet
Pterhegy EATING (pp91120) INFORMATION
Szabadkikt vm
Fuji...............................................9 A2 Slovakian Consulate...................12 D2
Remz.......................................(see 10) Slovenian Embassy.....................13 A2
6 Rzsavlgy Szp Ilona..................................10 A3 South African Embassy...............14 A2
falu

7 Budafok-
Albertfalva
To Statue Park (4.5km); v 6 To Fox Autorent (2.2km); Anselport (3.5km); Pesterzsbet vm To Kecskemt (86km);
Lake Balaton (75km); Tropicarium-Oceanarium (4km); Nagyttny Castle Baja (161km)
216 Sifok (106km) Museum (7km); Lake Balaton (75km); Sifok (106km)
217













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BUDA & PEST 0 0.3 miles

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0
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69
D
300 m
0.2 miles CASTLE HILL & WATERTOWN

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES (pp4974)

0km Stone..............................................1 C3
A&TSA Fitness Club............................... 2 A4
Medieval Jewish Prayer
House.............................................. 28 B2
Military History Museum......................29 A2
Lnchd Srz......................................53 C3
Ruszwurm.............................................54 B2

t l Batthyny
Ba Szab Ilonka u
gy
Andrs Hadik Statue...............................3 B2 National Archives..................................30 B1 ENTERTAINMENT (pp12840)
1 K a tr
Buda Castle Labyrinth.............................4 B3 National Szchenyi Library....................31 C4 Buda Concert Hall................................55 C2
Vrfok u 46 Batthyny Budapest History Museum.....................5 D4 Rc Baths (Renovating)........................32 D5 National Dance Theatre........................56 C3
tr

Do
Capuchin Church....................................6 C2 St Annes Church..................................33 C1

na
u Hu 50 Castle Bazaar......................................... 7 D4 St Gellrt Monument........................... 34 D5 SHOPPING (pp14150)
ay Lovas t

ti
nfa
tr

u
M 38 lvy 33 Castle Garden Kiosk Sndor Palace.......................................35 C3 Almrium..............................................57 B3
39 u
a u Aranyhal
bsty u (Casino)............................................. 8 D4 Semmelweis Museum of Medical Herend.................................................58 B2
jou 30 Bcsi kapu Vzivros Garibaldi Corvinus Gate........................................9 C3 History.............................................36 D4 Hungaricum..........................................59 B2
An n n trT
nc (Watertown)
a Vm u Eugene of Savoy Statue........................10 C4 Telephony Museum..............................37 B2
erm 24 sic 20
29 Pet r u u sM
Ferdinand Gate.................................... 11 D4 Tomb of Abdurrahman.........................38 A1 SLEEPING (pp15166)
Zoltn u

Toldy
b rd 28 u
Lo

21

Kapisztrn Ka 59 Fishermens Bastion..............................12 C2 Turul Statue.......................................(see 15) Artotel Budapest.................................60 C2
Or

Szilgyi
go

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tr 25 Fo
65
sz
di

Dezs tr Former Ministry of Defence..................13 C3 Vienna Gate..........................................39 B1 Burg Hotel............................................61 B2

Feren
41
rtu

Szchenyi rkp
gh
u

Golden Eagle Pharmacy Carlton Hotel........................................62 C3

na
Calvinist
T

Church

cu
u
th

74 37 Museum............................................14 B2 EATING (pp91120) Charles Hotel & Apartment...................63 B6

u

18 Hess 55

Akadmia
r

Andrs Habsburg Steps....................................15 C3 Aranyszarvas........................................ 40 D5 Hilton Budapest....................................64 B2

ak
p d

tr
un

44 Corvin Holy Trinity Statue................................16 B2 Caf Pierrot..........................................41 B2 Hotel Astra...........................................65 C2

u Fort

64
s

2 tr 23
tn

iu

17 House of Hungarian Wines...................17 B2 den.....................................................42 D5 Hotel Kulturinnov.................................66 B2

y

12
a

u
Hungarian Museum of Commerce & Ezred Nonstop......................................43 B3 Hotel Orion..........................................67 D5

F u
u
rd

66 60

Szalag
D
Lo

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Lo

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go

u
va

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Dan
tr Hungarian National Gallery..................19 C4 Le Jardin de Paris..................................45 C2

di

su

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u

61 Iron Stump...........................................20 C2 Nagyi Palacsintzja TRANSPORT (pp1806)

73 u 68

ub
54 Ponty Kossuth Jail...........................................21 B2 Branch..............................................46 C1 Batthyny tr Pier.................................69 C1

Bem rkp
58
At

e R
45 Lift to Dzsa tr...................................22 C4 Rivalda.................................................47 C3 Sikl (Lower Station)............................70 C3
til

51 14
au

Buda
Hu
Dli pu 3 n au ny Louis Fountain......................................23 C2 Seoul House.........................................48 C3 Sikl (Upper Station)............................71 C3
An

iver
4 ad Lutheran Church...................................24 B1 Tabni Terasz....................................... 49 D5

i als
Dli Train Station iJ
Szenthromsg u n Mace Tower.......................................(see 11) INFORMATION
os
t

rkp
Roosevelt Mary Magdalene Tower.......................25 B2 DRINKING (pp1238) Budapest Chamber of Commerce and
mu
T
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ok 62
u Ecclesiastical Art............................... 26 B2 Caf Mir.............................................51 B2 Budapest Tourist Office Branch.............73 B2
yi

Apor P
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47 Szc Bridg

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t

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u

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220 221
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Sz


CENTRAL PEST

A
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0
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300 m
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od
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CENTRAL PEST

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES (pp4974) Okay Italia............................................60 B1 Iguana............................................... 116 D6

u
P Academy of Fine Arts............................. 1 D2 Okay Italia............................................61 B2 rok Boltja...........................................117 C3

nia
Art Nouveau Primary School.................. 2 D3 Pick Hz...............................................62 A3 Jtkszerek Anno...............................118 C2

Fe
Astoria Fitness Centre............................ 3 C5 Rothschild Supermarket........................63 C3 Kieselbach Galria...............................119 A1
t

Pan
Kat

u
yi

rd
1

Ba
u
ona

u
ula
Jszai

in
Bed House.............................................4 B3 Rothschild Supermarket........................64 A1 Kdex.................................................120 B3

jza
za
Jz
son

Ern

n
Gy
Mari tr

u
sef

Sz
G
ra u

d
55

u
u Bike Base................................................5 B2 Shalimar............................................... 65 D4 Lekvrium.......................................... 121 D4

di

k
Poz

58

h
135

sz
143

ely
n
Budapest Bike.........................................6 C4 Soho Palacsintabr...............................66 Libri Knyvpalota...............................122

t
C3 C5
Tt

d
egr
ged

ci
Kre
Holl

64 Vig

Be
Vis
szn Budapest Eye..........................................7 C1 Szerj....................................................67 B1 Liszt Ferenc Zebnembolt...................123 C3

V
He

r
hz 128

ta

u
127 u Cityrama.................................................8 B3 Vrs s Fehr.....................................68 C3 Magyar Plinka Hz...........................124 C5

lan
Sze 93

y
rg
nt I 106 7

30 113 stv 60 43 Debrecen Summer University..................9 A1 Nyugat Antikvrium............................125 B3

Gy
u
n K 18
119 krt d Ethnography Museum..........................10 A2 DRINKING (pp1238) Pintr Antik........................................126 A2

ty
76 ru

et
131
i rkp

Balaton 103 Fashion House......................................11 C3 Ballet Cip.............................................69 C3 Sznyi Antikvriuma............................127 A1

Km
Sz
u 67

iny
u

133 Former Hungarian Radio Headquarters..12 D6 Becketts................................................70 B2 West End City Centre Shopping
heny

Ba
Blint

i
du

ei



u
Nyugati Train Station nd di
iksa u

Nyugati tr

jn

M
o a Franz Liszt Memorial Museum..............13 D2 Birdland................................................71 C3 Mall................................................128 C1
Sz Ar

ok
Honv

er
Nyugati pu
Szc

ere u

111 19 House of Hungarian Photographers......14 C3 Caf Vian.............................................72 C3

yu

se
Sz
61

u
Balassi

89 59
Falk M

v
Stollr B zk

u
la u ic House of Terror....................................15 D3 CoXx Pub............................................. 73 D5 SLEEPING (pp15166)

u
an
Szem

R
Honvd 48
dm Hungarian Bicycle Touring Association..16 B3 Darshan Udvar.....................................74 D6 10 Beds..............................................129 D4

zs
Kodly

Iza
tr Po

a
163 84

u
krnd Imre Nagy Statue.................................17 A3 Demmers Teahouse.............................75 B2 Best Hostel.........................................130 C2

be
Mark u
u

lla
126 Terzvros Ldere Mansion....................................18 D1 Fehr Gyr.........................................76 A1 Caterina Hostel..................................(see 98)
J

s
32

u
u

ka
Jnos

2 85 Liptvros

ar
130 Lindenbaum Apartment Houses...........19 C2 Incognito Caf......................................77 C3 City Hotel Ring....................................131 B1
Nagy I

iu

ty
iu t

Cs
ob

u
Szalay Sz sy Makovec Office Building...................... 20 D5 Kt Szerecsen.......................................78 C3 Corinthia Grand Hotel Royal.............. 132 D3

en
u 75 144 s
Bihari

ge
118 MV Headquarters.............................. 21 D2 Lukcs..................................................79 D2 Eastside Hostel...................................133 A2

Sz
Vajkay u

157 70 d

E
An

ry

v
10 155 MTV Headquarters...............................22 A3 Mir Grande.........................................80 C3 Garibaldi Guesthouse.........................134 A3

u
tv

u
110 164
iu

s
148 79
ad National Bank of Hungary.....................23 B3 Mystery Bar & Internet Caf.................81 B3 Hilton West End..................................135 C1

u
Te
94 21
Kossuth Alkotmn
yu L
u Ar R

r
25 154 er Vrsmarty utca New York Palace.................................. 24 D4 Mvsz................................................82 C3 Hotel Hold..........................................136 B3

zk
Lajos 1 zs
ein
Kozma F u

42 a Palatinus House....................................(see 9) Picasso Point.........................................83 B3 Kings Hotel.......................................137 C4

rt
tr 45 15 91 u
Klmn Imre u W u
Honvd u

13 Parliament............................................25 A2 Ptkulcs................................................84 C2 Marco Polo Hostel............................. 138 D5

ag u
v ffy 98 u

V
8 Lo w J ia
Royal Postal Savings Bank.....................26 B3 Szalai....................................................85 A2 Medosz Hotel.....................................139 C3
51 se f

r
Bthory u s ka
Sz Shoes on the Danube Memorial...........27 A3 Szimpla................................................ 86 D3 Mercure Hotel Budapest Museum......140 C5

s
De

m
Cs
Bajcsy-Zsilinszky t

iu
63

ar
120 87
Vadsz u

u Soviet Army Memorial..........................28 B3 Teahz a Vrs Oroszlnhoz................87 C3 Mercure Nemzeti............................... 141 D5

en
Hunyadi

ty
Na

160 62 17 139 ly
Hold u

Oktogon

ge
r

Iza
E

u
Ha

4 tr Ki Thlia Theatre...................................... 29 C3 Museum Guest House....................... 142 D6

gy

V
u

83

ry
tv

be
Kossuth cs
j

m
lich

100 35

u
56 White House........................................30 A1 ENTERTAINMENT (pp12840) NH Budapest.......................................143 B1
u

ll
Lajos tr 102 ey u
su

ez

Jkai

u
Au

44

u
152
ru

Oktogon tr Yellow Zebra Bikes................................31 B3 Angel................................................... 88 C5 Residence Izabella..............................144 D2
ribaldi u
u

28 66
s

Ga 16 Liszt u
oz

Perczel M u Nagysndor J u Zoltn Kodly Memorial Museum........ 32 D2 Bank Dance Hall...................................89 B2

134 46 33 Ferenc 151 ika
M

3 u 104 s
Zoltn u 167 26 125 tr 49 J Budapest Operetta...............................90 C3 TRANSPORT (pp1806)
Szabadsg 81 n
90 123
Akadmia

Je 117 72 EATING (pp91120) Budapest Puppet Theatre.....................91 D2 BKV Office.........................................145 D4

136 y 29
tr bu

Cs
H
22 150 Arany ich 34 69
11
Do Alhambra............................................. 33 C3 Club Vittula.......................................... 92 D4 Covered Car Park............................... 146 D4

en
u Z

rsf
re
Szchenyi rkp

ind l Im 23 14 40 54 95
Ste Bank u Jnos utca
Ndor

ge
a
112 80 36 Articska..............................................34 B3 Comedy Theatre...................................93 B1 MV Central Ticket Office.................147 C3

u
31 2

ry
57 165 52
Podmaniczky 147 68
Ha

Biopont..............................................(see 74) Cotton Club.........................................94 C2

u

u
ru
u

27 u 77

He

Szchenyi Frigyes tr 78
j

z 71 132
Erz
u

161 Butterfly...............................................35 C3 Ferenc Liszt Music Academy.................95 D3 INFORMATION

su

ge

115 L 96
Da

82 u
s
K
Na

37 ly 50 City Maharaja...................................... 36 D3 Hungarian State Opera House..............96 C3 Belvros-Liptvros Police Station.......148 B2

lsz

be
r
rt

108
Hercegprm

See Belvros (Inner u 166 Opera

gy

os Ki
u

y Jn
n

Aran
u

t
99 Falafel Faloda.......................................37 C3 M4 Music Club....................................97 C5 BKV Lost & Found Office...................149 D4
m

Town) Map (p224) 86

h

ez

38
zu
Sas u

Va
Oktber 6

Frici Papa Kifzdje...............................38 C3 Mvsz Cinema...................................98 C3 British Chamber of Commerce............150 B3

sv
u

Liptvros r Erzsbetvros
Flemle.............................................. 39 D5 Old Music Academy...........................(see 13) Budapest Tourist Office Oktogon
u

u
Cs

t i krt
yi
y

P
n
va

ln Fzelk Fal..........................................40 C3 rkmozg Film Museum....................99 D3 Branch............................................151 C3

s u

Ferenc
u sy lu 65
Ke
R

yi

Vigyz s se
Sz

r es Hrom Testvr..................................... 41 D4 Piaf.....................................................100 C3 Cartographia.......................................152 B3

rt
u

nd

Szent
u

ke

W
sz
K

u
Kis

A Hrom Testvr Branch..........................42 C2 Sark Caf........................................... 101 C4 Chatman Internet...............................153 C5

Zrnyi 101
ly

Ak

Istvn tr
u

114
ld

Bajcsy- u
M

Di
y

y Hrom Testvr Branch...........................43 B1 Satchmo.............................................102 A3 Copy General......................................154 B2

Zsilinszky t sa
ih

fa

rc
ly

u
fa

Ba Hold utca Market..................................44 B3 Sss Fl Nap.......................................103 A1 CopyCat.............................................155 B2

Gy
Bajcsy-Zsilinszky t

de Klauzl
u
u

E Ka 47 O
ula

rleg u Hild tr Holly....................................................45 C2 Symphony Ticket Office.....................104 C3 Csillag Gygyszertr........................... 156 D5

4 M ay zin tr sv
Roosevelt ul u 41 t
u

Pa ly cz u Iguana..................................................46 A3 Szimpla Kert.......................................105 C5 Economy & Transport Ministry...........157 A2

tr r y
Ki u
H

137 145 129 Kdr................................................... 47 D4 Szindbd Cinema................................106 B1 Electric Caf.......................................158 D5

ol

u
l

ef Attila
Na

Kaisers Szupermarket...........................48 B2 Ticket Express.................................... 107 D6 Ervin Szab Library.............................159 C6

u

Jzs
Kl

149
gy

92
au

Erzsbet tr u 24 Leroy Caf............................................49 C3 Upside Down......................................108 B3 Hungarian Chamber of Commerce and

Di

ny
Ny

Jzsef
fa

lu

h Magdalena Merlo................................. 50 D3 Urnia National Cinema.....................109 D5 Industry..........................................160 A3

Do

Etvs tr As
r

ndor tr Ru
Dek bo 146 Do 53
u
rot

Marquis de Salade................................51 B3
u

m 6 Irish Embassy......................................161 B3
u

Dek th
b

Ferenc tr ba 121
Da

u
tya

162
Do

u
cad Ferenc ch Match Supermarket..............................52 C3 SHOPPING (pp14150) Narancs..............................................162 D4
Harmin
Ap

iu
Belg

S ny 156
u
nub

tr u Match Supermarket............................. 53 D4 Ajka Kristly.......................................110 C2 Post Office..........................................163 B2

u

e l 138
cza

K ess 105 Blaha Lujza

rd

St

Vrsmarty tr ro 158 Menza..................................................54 C3 Anna Antikvits..................................111 A2 Terz Patika.......................................164 C2

u W 73
i Cs
e

ly tr
d Vrsmarty 153
rkp

a k 141 Mzes Kuck........................................55 A1 BV Branch........................................112 C3 Trkpkirly........................................165 B3

Sp

Vi g u r t
i
Iu

t
ere
Riv

Blaha
tr c u aj 97 cz Mini Coop............................................56 B3 BV Shop...........................................113 A1 Top Clean Laundry Branch..................166 B3
u

en 3
rH Rk
zy

Lujza tr
Bc

Fer
Jn

h
rc
er

u Momotaro Ramen................................57 A3 Billerbeck........................................... 114 D4
u

k F e y Top Clean Laundry Branch.................(see 48)

B

De hn
si u

zy

Vigad
os u

u V Do Mosselen..............................................58 B1 Drius...............................................(see 133) US Embassy........................................167 B3

lc

an
Gyula

tr
stv Szervita tr ros
r

rr I h
Ge

zu 122 88 u Nyugati ABC.........................................59 B2 Haas & Czjzek.....................................115 B3 Vodaphone......................................(see 128)

T Sthly
Dun

109
Ara

5 Pe Kamermayer
Pi u

t t
a ko

zi
nyk

Kroly tr
Szentk

fi z c
Rk
Vas u

Astoria 124
Somogyi B u

Belvros S k

Puskin u
rz

nd
Vr
z u

x
au o va 140
ost i u r u Pil
irlyi
osh

gi p i zs Kf
Ga

R r arag
P
z u

Trefort u u
lam

39
Lu
Mz

kz uth
u

ELTE Jzsefvros
bu

ris
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a Ferenciek s s
u H Ko 20
eum
Sz

Petfi tr sti B tere

Vc

yar

Pe Gutenberg
pu

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krt
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ln

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iu veld Mze Pap tr

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u

6 Mikszth Krdy u
lgr

Ir Papn Ke
csk 116
d

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Dbrentei Pl u
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rkp

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u

tr
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142
er

159
V
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h
M

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222 m 223
oln
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V t
ru
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BELVROS (INNER TOWN)

A
Szabadsg
tr
B
Bank u
Zi
ch

Arany Jnos utca

y
Je
n
C
u
0
0

D
200 m
0.1 miles BELVROS (INNER TOWN)

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES (pp4974) Kpr.................................................. 63 D5 Libri Studium......................................126 B4

Ha
Absolute Walking Tours.....................(see 48) Kinor David..........................................64 D3 Magma.............................................. 127 C4

He
u Podmaniczky

su
Szchenyi u Astoria Fitness Branch............................ 1 D4 Kisharang..............................................65 B1 Monarchia.......................................... 128 C4

ge
Frigyes tr zr

d
Da
L Bank Palace............................................2 B3 La Fontaine...........................................66 B2 Ndortex............................................129 B2

Na
1

Opera

u
ls
69

zn
Basilica of St Stephen..............................3 B1 Lou Lou................................................67 A1 Nagycsarnok...................................... 130 C6

gy
Hercegprm
151

m
9 u Budapest Bike Kiosk (Summer)...............4 A2 Mzeum.............................................. 68 D4 Nray Tams......................................131 C4

ez
os u

zu
Akadmia

Arany Jn ly

Sas u
97

r
Ndor
11 Budatours...............................................5 C2 Nagy Fal...............................................69 A1 Porcelnhz........................................132 C5
Ki

u
60 110

Oktber 6
161 51 Calvinist Church (Dek Ferenc tr).........6 C3 Nagy Tams.........................................70 C3 Red Bus Secondhand Bookstore........(see 159)
65 Va
Carl Lutz Monument..............................7 D3 Nagycsarnok Food Market...............(see 130) Rzsavlgyi s Trsa...........................133 B3

s u
u

sv
58

Cs
r
u

140 28 iP Central European University....................8 B2 Nagyi Palacsintzja Branch..................71 B3 Selene Lovas Bolt................................134 B5
59 67 95

n
16 Liptvros 99

u
55 37 l

yi
y
u 143 Church of St Teresa................................9 D1 Ocen Br & Grill & Delicatessen..........72 B4 Szmos Marcipn...............................135 B4

va
u

u
3 t

R
nc u

Sz
Fere 170 115 sy Contra Aquincum Ruins........................10 B4 Pata Negra........................................... 73 D5 Tang Classic.....................................136 B4
Vigyz Szent

k
s
dr Drechsler House...................................11 D1 Pesti Vendgl......................................74 C2 Tang Classic......................................137 B3

ely
80 Istvn tr

K
8
An

Kis
M
Ferenc Dek Statue..............................12 A2 Soul Caf............................................. 75 D6 Thomas Sabo......................................138 B3

ld
nyi u

ih
Zr 5

D
34

Government Building with `Pater Spinoza Caf........................................ 76 D3 Vass...................................................139 B4

if
ly
101

au
66 116 Bajcsy- Noster'.............................................13 A3 Spoon..................................................77 A3 Wave Music.......................................140 C1
145 180

Gy
Bajcsy-Zsilinszky t
Zsilinszky t Great Synagogue................................. 14 D3 Sushi An...............................................78 B3 Zsolnay...............................................141 B4

ula
160 u Ka Gresham Palace................................(see 145) Taverna Pireus Rembetiko.................... 79 C6
Hild tr 52 e
Ed zin

u
u 49
Roosevelt Mrleg ay cz Holocaust Memorial.............................15 D3 Tom-George.........................................80 B2 SLEEPING (pp15166)
2 ul y 26
Hungarian Academy of Sciences...........16 A1 Trattoria Toscana..................................81 B6 Carmen Mini Hotel.............................142 C3
tr Pa u u

H
29
125 148 ly

ol
4 r Hungarian Electrotechnology Museum..17 D2 Vegetarium.......................................... 82 C5 Connection Guest House....................143 D1
187 Ki 117

l
u
74 94 90 Hungarian Equestrian Tourism Vrs Postakocsi.................................. 83 D6 Downtown Hostel.............................. 144 D5
12 u 129 53
Attila 183 Association...................................... 18 D5 Four Seasons Gresham Palace Hotel...145 A2

Jzsef 121 54 47
Hungarian Language School................ 19 D4 DRINKING (pp1238) Green Bridge Hostel........................... 146 C5
109 Erzsbet tr 103 t 25 17 Hungarian National Museum............... 20 D5 1000 Tea..............................................84 C5 Hotel Art............................................ 147 D5
Jzsef e
mr
Do

44 39 Hungary Program Centrum...................21 B3 Action Bar............................................ 85 D5 Hotel Domina Fiesta...........................148 C2

Etvs tr ndor tr As hI
ro

bo c Ru Ibusz (Main Office)..............................22 C4 Caf Eklektika.......................................86 C3 Hotel Erzsbet....................................149 C5

ad
tty

Dek th m
u M ba

u
Inner Town Parish Church.....................23 B5 Centrl Kvhz...................................87 C5 Ibis Centrum Hotel............................. 150 D5
au

78 185 21 Dek Ferenc tr ch 7

b
172

Do
cad u S 76 Jewish Museum................................... 24 D3 Cha Cha Cha....................................... 88 D5 K+K Hotel Opera................................151 C1
Ap

Harmin Ferenc u
Belg

77 tr Kosher Bakery......................................25 D2 Champs Sports Bar............................... 89 D3 Kempinski Hotel Corvinus...................152 B3

c

152 154 6 iu
zai
rd

91 ny Kvri Butchers.....................................26 D2 Frhlich................................................90 D2 KM Saga II......................................... 153 D6

Vrsmarty K Erzsbetvros el
u
Cse

48
ess
rkp

13 ro Legenda...........................................(see 167) Gerbeaud..............................................91 B3 Le Meridien Budapest.........................154 B3

St

tr ly W
re

184 krt Municipal Council Office......................27 C3 Gerlczy Kvhz.................................92 C3 Le Panzi......................................... 155 C4
u Vrsmarty 168

Sp
Jn

ad 142 New Theatre.........................................28 D1 Janis Pub.............................................. 93 D5 Mellow Mood Central Guest House....156 B3
Vig
o

u
tr 113
su

3 u Orthodox Synagogue........................... 29 D2 Mozaik Teahouse.................................94 C2 Millennium Court...............................157 B4

u

aj
Bc

108 15
Dun

u
yI

enc 156 r
H Pegazus Tours......................................30 C4 Negro....................................................95 B1 Non-Stop Hotel Service.......................158 B4
Fer
rcz
si u

yu

h 162
k Fe 89
a ko

Vigad Pest County Hall..................................31 C4 Teahz a Vrs Oroszlnhoz................ 96 D6 Red Bus Hostel...................................159 C3
B

De 24
cz

100 2 138
yu
rl

tr V Petfi Literary Museum.........................32 C5 Starlight Suiten Hotel......................... 160 A2

hn
rz

Kristf tr ros 107

Ge

14
u 173 43 Szervita tr h
z u 27 159 64 Do Philanthia Flower Shop.........................33 B3 ENTERTAINMENT (pp12840) To-Ma................................................161 B1
an Se 86
stv Postal Museum.....................................34 C2 Aranytz Cultural Centre.......................97 A1
rr I 137 mm
T
Ara

71 57
167
133 Pe
177 70 122 elwe Pump Room.........................................35 A5 Candy.................................................. 98 D4 TRANSPORT (pp1806)
119 92
nyk

t is u Queen Elizabeth Statue........................36 A5 Central Ticket Office.............................99 C1 Avis....................................................162 B3

33 Kamermayer t

fi Vitkovics M u
z

136 S Kroly tr zi Queenybus Departures.........................37 C1 Columbus Jazzklub.............................100 A3 Covered Car Park...............................163 B4

42 nd 176 R kc
u

Rudas Baths & Pools.............................38 A5 Duna Palota.......................................101 A2 Covered Car Park...............................164 B4

Puskin u
164 or z 31 Astoria
Vr

u 127 k
Belvros 158 x y eu 1 Rumbach Sebestyn utca Synagogue...39 D2 Fat Mos Music Club..........................102 C5 Covered Car Park.............................(see 162)
meg
osh

a East-West
a u 141 126 ilv Vr 171 St Michaels Church............................. 40 C5 Gdr Klub.........................................103 B2 International Ferry Pier.......................165 B6
72 ost P Business Centre
z u

u 174
gi p si
Ga

R 182 riz Serbian Orthodox Church.................... 41 C5 Holdudvar.......................................... 104 D4 Mahart PassNave Ticket Office...........166 B5
lam

P 135 186
163 Thonet House.......................................42 B4 Jazz Garden....................................... 105 C6 Vigad tr Pier................................... 167 A3
bu

Mz

157 106 98 112 Trk Bank House................................43 B3 Jzsef Katona Theatre........................ 106 C4
u
111 139 kz
Mag

155 hL ELTE Underground Railway Museum............44 C2 Merlin Theatre....................................107 C3 INFORMATION

eum

4 ris sut
Ha Kos
Sz

22 104 University Church.................................45 C5 Pesti Vigad.......................................108 A3 American Chamber of Commerce.......168 B3

yar

Petfi tr Bu
krt
Vc

pu

i 181
est University Library.................................46 C4 Szoda Udvar.......................................109 B2 Ami Internet Coffee........................... 169 C5

P Ferenciek tere
Kigy u
iu

Wigmaker............................................ 47 D2 Ticket Express.....................................110 C1 CEU NetPoint......................................170 B1

128 Italian
10 62 Institute Yellow Zebra Bikes................................48 B3 Express Travel Agency........................ 171 D4
u 124
Ferenciek tere da 68 of Culture SHOPPING (pp14150) Finance Ministry.................................172 B3
a no
K

46 elt
R 19 ru EATING (pp91120) Arten Stdi.......................................111 B4 Hungarian Youth Hostel
ro

Sndo Al-Amir................................................ 49 D2 Babaklinika......................................... 112 D4

Brdy
lyi

u 30 131
Association....................................(see 178)
Iu
M

u ria Bangkok House....................................50 C6 Balogh Kesty..................................(see 139) Immedio.............................................173 B3

t
23 saj u Cu zy
u
Ve

bad na 87 nc Caf Kr...............................................51 B1 BV Branch........................................113 B3 Irisz Szalon.........................................174 C4

Sza Du re
res

82 Fe
20 Caf Mokka..........................................52 B2 Belvrosi Aukcishz..........................114 C5 K&H Bank..........................................175 C5
61
P

Mrcius
Cukor u

114 149 Carmel Pince........................................ 53 D2 Bestsellers............................................115 B1 Main Post Office................................ 176 C4

kz
ln

Magyar u

e 15 tr 32
ridg ny

rv
Central European University Cafeteria..(see 8) Bibliotka Antikvrium........................116 C2 Main Post Office Annexe...................177 C3
th B d)
u

abe et h
175 Sziv 85 Durcin..................................................54 C2 Budapest Wine Society Branch...........(see 96) Mellow Mood Travel Agency..............178 B5
Eliz rzsb
Be

169 Egyetem tr
(E Durcin Branch.......................................55 B1 Central European University Bookshop..(see 8) National Foreign Language
lgr

yi u 134 lde u um u
ve Mze
d

36 n 132 Fatl.....................................................56 C5 Concerto Hanglemezbolt....................117 D2 Library............................................179 B5

5 Ir 40 Papn
r

45
kp

93 Ke Fausto..................................................57 D3 Folkart Centrum.................................118 C5 OTP Bank...........................................180 A2

Dbrentei 178 Pl u csk
em Goa......................................................58 C1 Folkart Kzmvszhz.........................119 B3 Prisi Udvar Knyvesbolt....................181 C4
tr ry
Kir

102 ti
Ny 147 Klvin tr
V

u
u

35 179 Szab E Govinda................................................59 A1 Hephaistos.........................................120 C6 Parknet...............................................182 B4

b

38
lyi P
Feh
ci u

63 Kpr u
er
Bu

118 Gresham Kvhz..............................(see 145) Herend...............................................121 B2 SOS Dental Service.............................183 C2

Sz

r G

88
da

l u
M

41 144 Hanna................................................(see 29) Holl Atelier.......................................122 C3 Tourinform (Main Office)...................184 B3

ia

84
oln

au rt
yrg
ls

zk l Kama Sutra...........................................60 B1 Intuita................................................123 C5 UK Embassy........................................185 B3

146 150
sty
ru

h li
166 B
rak

123 73 t Krolyi tterem.....................................61 C5 Kzponti Antikvrium........................ 124 D4 Vilgsajt Hza.................................. 186 C4

yu

m
Rd

V 18
pa Szen

Klvin Krptia...............................................62 C4 La Boutique des Vins...........................125 B2 Vista...................................................187 C2

ay
rt

56 tr
81 120 a
u

k
ar
165 Sz 105
tG

153
ell

su u
Trk Pl
u
rt

av
a S
Da
rkp

H
50
nu

Gellrt Hill 79
be

96
6 Fvm 130
Ri

75
Pip

tr
Lny
yP
ve

au

ncz

u
r

Citadella
Erkel
S

83
G

yu
h

Budapest
zu

Technical
F
v

University
224 225
m
t
t



BUDA, AQUINCUM & ANGYALFLD
Csillaghegy 18



0
0
500 m
0.3 miles

utja
5 F

lpart
ti
A B C D E F t G H

Kiralyok

d
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES (pp4974) Plvlgy Cave............................24 A5

t
Kossuth Lajos
Emd utca Aquincum Museum..................... 1 D2 Premonstratensian Church.........25 D6

ri
ye
Arnold Gym.................................2 B6 Rmaifrd Pools.......................26 D1

eg
26 jpest
Baths Museum.............................3 C4 Roman Civilian Amphitheatre.....27 C2

M
1 Aranyhegy Rozgonyi 1
Piroska u 2 Bringhint Bicycle Rentals.......... 4 D5 Roman Military Amphitheatre....28 C5
Rmaifrd
22 Convent Ruins...........................(see 7) Szemlhegy Cave.......................29 B6

Monostor Csillaghegy Pools.........................5 C1 Szpvlgyi Tennis Centre...........30 A5
i t
To UTE Stadium Dagly Pools................................6 D5 Thermal Bath (Danubius Thermal Hotel

(50m) Dominican Church....................... 7 D6 Margitsziget)......................... 31 D5
Former buda Synagogue...........8 C5 Vasarely Museum...................... 32 C4

rt

Rmai pa
Grzenl Roller Skating Park........9 C5 Water Tower............................. 33 D6
Hercules Villa.............................10 C4 Zsigmund Kun Folk Art
buda v

Horse-Drawn Carriages..............11 D5 Collection..............................34 C4

budai temet 11
Hungarian Railway History Park..12 G4

Imre Varga Exhibition House......13 C4 EATING (pp91120)

Nnsi t
Aquincum Imre Varga Sculptures................14 C4 Khli..........................................35 C5
10 27 Japanese Garden....................... 15 D5 Kisbuda Gyngye.......................36 B5
Aquincum
fels vm Kassk Museum.........................16 C4 Leroy Caf.................................37 C6
Keled t Pk u jpe
Kiscelli Museum & Municipal Maharaja....................................38 B5
2 Kaszsdl 1 (jpe st Rail Bri Gallery...................................
Krolyi 17 B5 Malign.....................................39 C6 2

Vci t
sti va d Istvn
sti h ge u
KSH Boat Club............................ 18 E1 Mennyei zek.............................40 C5
d)

Istvn t
Lookout Gallery.......................(see 33) Nagyi Palacsintzja Branch.......41 C2
41

u
Jzsef

Mtyshegy Cave...................... 19 A5 Rozmaring.................................42 C5

yr
Attiila u

g
Musical Fountain....................... 20 D5 j Spos Halszkert....................43 C4

Gz
Zhony
u buda Parish 21 C5 Wasabi.......................................44 B6
rpdChurch.................
t
buda Sport Club....................... 22 E1
Bcs

Bojtr

t)
jpest-
tja

u Palatinus Pools...........................23 C6 DRINKING (pp1238)

i t

ik
Vroskapu Daubner Cukrszda....................45 B6

li k

t
unda

Aquincum People's Island

Istvn
(T
(Np sziget) ENTERTAINMENT (pp12840)
Kunig

our
Mokka Cuka..............................46 D3

arb
buda Society...........................47 C5

Tl u

rH
r u
Open-Air Theatre...................... 48 D6
Elem

de

nte
Du u

Me
3 go 3

Po
Wi
Kaszsdl ni SHOPPING (pp14150)

zs
cs

o
Chinese Market..........................49 F5
ti t

ny
Fa

iu
rk

Filatorigt Szeksz Duna Plaza

IstvntelekShopping Mall.......... 50 E4
Husz
at

rdi u
or

Timpanon..................................51 C5

t
ki
t

Vci
m Landler Jen
46 to SLEEPING (pp15166)
Jrmjavit
ru Danubius Grand Hotel v.m.
Margitsziget.......................... 52 D5

Mjus 9 park 50 Angyalfld
t Med v Hotel Flandria.............................53 F6
i Megg 10 er u
viz Gyn Oriental Hotel............................54 F5
H yfa u gysi
Gyngysi u u
Bab
u

r u TRANSPORT (pp1806)
Vihar

er
rpd Bridge Bus Station............55 E5
i t

buda Island

Riv
Ve Rakt
le Hu (budai-sziget)
ndre

r u
nc no INFORMATION
Laktanya u

e
u ru Thalm Kucsm
te

4 a u Hungarian Federation of Disabled 4

u
ann
Szen

e
Persons' Associations..............56 B4

Bk
V
Bcsi t

r Main City & National Police
Vradi u
sv
ri F Vizafog u
t K tr Vrsker 13 Tahi u Station....................................57 E5
Remetehegy rh eszt u
fog u
Rem

Roko
BUDA z Szabadsg Viza
be

lya
u

Buda Hills 14 u
Polgr

u 43 strand 12
eteh

gu
Dan

Remnys

u
Flrin 16 Kesz
Szl
egy

34 ken
San M

56 tr

ai u
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nyai
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Serf Szentllek rpd hd u Ta

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u

Np
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bu
u

eu
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Tanul Mkus u

Kiscelli
au

u d h e Bodor Fut

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47 21 8 d) u Turbin Forg ru
oron

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Angyalfld

u
17 K
u

Dag
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u Dvai Br Dugovitsz ly u Fy u
Jak

Kenyeres Tl 6
u

u Ta
Pacsirtamez u

M tr 35 Titusz tr Jzsef s Fri

ab

hi

u
t
Perc u u
mi t
San M

iu Zsin

eu
ty
p

Selmec

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36 Vci
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Szl u

20 Frang 49 u

Bk
u

pen
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Fnyes u

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Rp
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Sz

(300m) ru 4 rt Petn 54
Tm r u ehz u

sze
40 Tmr u 15 K yu
pv

ro

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a
ger
42 ly
lg

19

Kom
Tex 31 57

ai u
kr

ter
38 tilg 11 t rpd Fran
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Viador u
ny
i

yr gep

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Hajd
9 52 55 hd u u Ors n

Tat
24 51 u ve
st
t

28 Margaret Island Te ly zgb

ro
t

Vi rbo ir u u
30 Nagyszombat u K
u

(Margit-sziget) cu
fog

r
elem

G
i t

p
ny

g
m
Pa
frd

iu
Bokor u

Bene jlak
alfld

b
dek u
Vza
Prk

iu
d

rgom

Sz 25
u
u

Zsilip Szeg
feje

Np

t p
Bcsi t

Csatrka
grd

u edi Orsz
ny

u
v 33 t Bke gbir
u
Angy

szl
lgy
Este
d

u
La assk

tr
u
Prk

u
i
Vise

48
u
y

See Buda & Pest Map (pp21819)

aj
rp

eg

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22
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4 Major 4
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u Szigetcscs Holocaust Memorial Center.................6 E1 SHOPPING (pp14150) To Ecseri Piac

Barazda Hungarian Natural History Museum....7 F1 Iguana Branch...................................31 E1 (2km)

M u
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lem ru
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er

6
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be

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t

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Kunhegyes u
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t
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BKV Passenger Ferries 51 E2
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i t

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Szerm
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MU Sznhz......................................24 C2
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Hunya

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