© Lonely Planet Publications

19

Destination Jordan
So it’s official. Petra, jewel in the crown of Jordan’s antiquities, has been
declared by popular ballot as one of the ‘new’ Seven Wonders of the
World. Jordan’s authorities, together with tour operators, hoteliers and
even the Bedouin of Petra themselves, have been quick to understand the
commercial value of this marketing coup, and prices have risen accord-
ingly. The magnificent rock-hewn city of the Nabataeans hardly needed
further billing. Since Johann Ludwig Burckhardt rediscovered it in the
19th century, it has been a favourite destination for Europeans – and at
sunset on a winter’s day, when the rose-pink city catches alight, it’s easy
to see why it has charmed a new generation of visitors. FAST FACTS
Not to be outdone by Petra’s success, Wadi Rum – that epic landscape Population: 6.2 million
of TE Lawrence and David Lean’s Lawrence of Arabia – is a contender as Population growth rate:
one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World. Surely two such acco- 2.3%
lades would be entirely disproportionate to the minimal size of Jordan.
But Jordan, straddling the ancient Holy Land of the world’s three Inflation: 15.5%
great monotheistic religions, and once an important trading centre of the GDP: US$31.01
Roman Empire, is no stranger to punching above its weight. Stand on Mt Main exports: clothing,
Nebo, newly consecrated by Pope John II, and survey the land promised pharmaceuticals, potash,
to Moses; unfurl a veil at Mukawir, where Salome cast a spell over men phosphates, fertilisers,
in perpetuity; float in the Dead Sea, beside a pillar of salt, reputed to be vegetables
Lot’s disobedient wife. Go just about anywhere in Jordan and you’ll find
every stone bears a tale. Average annual income:
With so much history wrapped up in this tiny desert kingdom, it’s easy US$5000
to overlook the modern face of Jordan – something the government is Average male life
trying to address in ambitious tourist developments at Aqaba and along expectancy: 76 years
the Dead Sea. And ‘ambitious’ is an appropriate word. In a country of Average female life
minimal resources – where water is in critically short supply, arable expectancy: 81 years
land accounts for less than 5% of the landmass, and unemployment and
inflation are hovering around 15% – the disproportionate investment in Male literacy rate: 95%
Jordan’s coastal pleasure domes appears to border on the reckless. Female literacy rate: 85%
This is especially so when you consider the neighbourhood it shares.
Wedged between Iraq and Israel and the Palestinian Territories, Jordan
has had to shelter millions of refugees in recent decades, straining health
care and education systems and changing the demography of the country
forever. Palestinians now account for the majority of the population in-
volved in all aspects of government and trade. The Bedouin population,
meanwhile, contends with a minimum wage of $155 a month.
If the Seven Wonders of the World ballot showed anything, however,
it was the extent to which, despite the mixed origins of its people, the
current economic difficulties and the insecurity of life in a volatile region,
Jordanians are united in their pride for their country. And there’s a lot
to be proud of. The monarchy under King Abdullah continues the ac-
claimed role of peacemaker between Arab and Western interests, Jordan
is a regional leader in protecting the environment and promoting sustain-
able tourism, and its capital city is enjoying a modern renaissance.
In common with many Arab countries, Jordan is at a crossroads as it
shapes up to integration within the modern, global community. Unlike
many of its neighbours, however, Jordan has recognised that the past is
part of its future, and while the politicians plan a way to maximise on
the country’s unique legacy, the Bedouin still herd their sheep across an
unchanged landscape in effortless continuity with the ancient past.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
20

Getting Started
Jordan is an easy and enjoyable country to visit. The logistics of travel,
from obtaining visas on arrival to accessing the liberally-sprinkled ATMs,
are a breeze. Best of all, as Jordan is a compact country and travel times
are short, you can enjoy a range of world-class sights within a relatively
short period of time. You can even combine a visit with other Middle
Eastern top spots from Jerusalem to Damascus, both just a few hours by
road. Jordan is one country where it pays to have a little more cash at your
disposal. Enjoying a dive in the spectacular Red Sea, taking a 4WD excur-
sion in Wadi Rum, hiking with a guide in Dana Nature Reserve or staying
at a luxury spa on the Dead Sea are highlights well worth saving for.

WHEN TO GO
For a small country, Jordan has an extraordinary range of climates. The
See Climate Charts (p292) best time to visit is in spring (March to May), when wildflowers put on
for more information. a spectacular display, and autumn (September to November), when the
daytime temperatures are not too extreme.
Winter can be surprisingly cold. Snow in Amman is not unheard of
(even Petra gets the occasional fall) and the deserts can be freezing, es-
pecially at night. Aqaba is the exception, with average daytime maximum
A FAMILY AFFAIR temperatures of around 20°C in January.
In high summer (July and August) the weather in the humid Jordan
Eid al-Fitr, the great
Valley is oppressive, with suffocating daytime highs exceeding 35°C. It’s
celebration at the end of
also fiercely hot in desert areas, though the dry heat is easier to tolerate.
Ramadan, is primarily a
Festivals are welcome summer distractions.
family occasion. At this
It’s best to avoid the month of Ramadan as visitors are obliged to refrain
time, public transport is
from eating, drinking or smoking in public during the day and many res-
heavily booked and hotel
taurants close for the whole period. See p296 for more on Ramadan.
rooms are hard to find,
Note also that many of the excellent trails operated in Jordan’s Dana,
especially in Aqaba.
Wadi Mujib and Ajloun nature reserves only operate between April and
October.

COSTS & MONEY

By neighbouring standards, Jordan is not a cheap country, and the ris-
ing price of oil is fuelling inflation to such an extent that prices in this

DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT…

„ Your driver’s licence (p317) and Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI) diving card
„ A Syrian visa if you are heading north (see p303)
„ A Jordanian visa if heading from Israel and the Palestinian Territories across King Hussein/
Allenby Bridge (see p310)
„ A sleeping sheet if you’re staying overnight in Wadi Rum
„ A torch (flashlight) for exploring archaeological sites
„ Mosquito repellent and net if you intend to hike and camp through wadis or sleep on hotel
roofs (as permitted, for example, at some smaller hotels in Petra)
„ A hat, sunscreen, sunglasses, long sleeves and covering for your neck if you’re planning a
summer visit. A water carrier that fits a 1.5L bottle is also useful.
lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • T r a v e l l i n g R e s p o n s i b l y 21

book, especially for accommodation and transport, may have increased

by the time you read this. That said, you can still find value for money, HOW MUCH?
especially if you can afford a few extra dinars for a midrange hotel, or for
a purchase from a quality craft shop. If you’re on a tight budget, there Souvenir keffiyah (scarf )
are plenty of cheap sleeps and eats in major towns if you don’t mind from JD5
stripping back to basics (JD4 for a rooftop mattress, for example, or JD8 Postcard 200 fils
for a bed in a dorm). Cup of tea 500 fils
More liveable budget hotels charge about JD15/20/25 for a single/
Cup of Western coffee JD2
double/triple. A good midrange single/double costs from JD25/35 up to
JD65/75, while top-end doubles start at JD80. See also Lonely Planet
Street snacks such as a felafel or shwarma sandwich cost just a few Index, inside front cover.
fils and you can get a decent budget meal for JD1 to JD3. In mid-
range restaurants, main courses start from around JD4. Jordan’s top
restaurants offer excellent value for money (especially in comparison
with Western prices), with main courses starting from JD8, sumptuous
buffets from JD15 and quality dining experiences from JD35 (usually
including wine). COSTS PER DAY
Public transport costs about JD2 per hour in a comfortable, long-
The minimum cost per
distance private bus, or less than JD1 per hour of travel in a public bus
day for budget travel is
or minibus. Public buses and minibuses can be exasperatingly slow
between JD15 to JD30.
however, as most towns are linked by sporadic services that only leave
Upgrade to midrange
when full. Car hire is reasonable and recommended, especially for ex-
hotels and chartered taxis
ploring the King’s Highway, the Dead Sea Highway and remote Eastern
for JD60. For JD100, you
desert.
can throw in the cost of
The entrance fee to Petra (JD31 for three days) hasn’t increased for a
some car hire.
number of years. If you’re on a tight budget it may seem steep but it’s
worth every dinar! Entry to other popular sights such as Jerash costs JD8,
but most places are free or cost just a dinar or two.

TRAVELLING RESPONSIBLY
In a region only recently concerned with conservation, it’s refreshing
to find that Jordan is ahead of the game. Not only are the authorities –
especially through the work of the Royal Society for the Conservation
of Nature (RSCN) – keen to promote sustainable tourism with regard
to Jordan’s natural heritage, they are also keen to maintain the country’s
cultural heritage by preserving Islamic values, supporting arts and craft
initiatives (such as soap-making at Ajloun, see p136) and supporting
traditional lifestyles (as with the employment of Bedouin drivers in RSCN &
Wadi Rum). SUSTAINABLE
Of course it’s not easy balancing the need for increased tourism against TOURISM
the environmental cost of more visitors. While tourism revenue at Wadi The Royal Society for the
Rum, for example, is needed for the upkeep of the protected area, it’s Conservation of Nature
hard to minimise the impact of more feet and wheels upon a fragile (RSCN) is a byword in
desert ecosystem. A balance can be achieved, however, with the coopera- Jordan for sustainable
tion of visitors. tourism. See www.rscn
If you’d like to know how to minimise the negative impact of your .org.jo for details.
visit, or contribute positively through your travel experience in Jordan,
then you may like to use the following checklist to inform the choices
you make on the road.
„ Save water Jordan has a critical water shortage (see p73 and p154 for
the consequences of excessive water use).
„ Use local guides and services Not only is interacting with local people, such
as the Bedouin in Wadi Rum and Petra (see p55), an opportunity to
learn about a unique way of life, it’s also a way of helping preserve local
traditions.
22 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • T r a v e l l i n g R e s p o n s i b l y lonelyplanet.com

„ Buy wisely Shop at craft centres where profits are returned to local com-
munities (see p197 for an idea of how this helps).
„ Use our GreenDex The list of sustainable travel options on p358 will help
in planning destination-friendly travel. Also see below for a review of
Jordan’s top sustainable tourism initiatives.
„ Dress and behave respectfully Many Jordanians see the liberalisation of
customs and manners as a bad habit caught from the West and an
erosion of their cultural and Islamic heritage (see p56).
„ Spend money… A few travellers think it’s clever to avoid entrance fees
and survive on muesli they brought from home. If you’re one of them,
try to make your visit count more positively by spending a little!
„ …but don’t give it away Give tips only for services rendered (such as buy-
ing a souvenir from kids at Petra) to discourage the counterproductive
activity of begging.

THE COMMUNITY-BASED TRAVEL TRAIL Ethan Gelber

In this age of eco-awareness, responsible tourism plays an important part in community development.
Interest in Jordan’s nature reserves has, for example, demonstrated how their appeal can economically
benefit neighbouring communities. This is certainly true of protected lands in which the Royal Society
for the Conservation of Nature (RSCN) has a hand, especially around Ajloun, Dibeen, Azraq, Shaumari,
the Dead Sea, Mujib, Dana and Wadi Rum. But more and more local communities, large and small, are
also uniting behind other tourism endeavours that return profits directly to the community.

Feeling the Local Motion

„ Abraham Path Initiative (p52; www.abrahampath.org; x02-647 5766, 077-7072212) has waymarked
a one-day Al Ayoun Trail through villages in the Ajloun area. Call ahead for a descriptive
brochure.
„ JARA (Jebel Amman Residents Association; www.jara-jordan.com) is a village initiative within a city. It
spearheaded the now-famous Souk Jara street market (Fawzi al-Malouf Street, open 10am to
10pm Friday, May to August) and other projects that enhance the historic centre of Amman.
„ The nonprofit Jordan Living History Association (JLHA) develops and promotes accurate
historical re-enactments and supports 65 people in Jerash alone, including many army veterans –
a chronically underemployed group. JLHA’s most spectacular undertaking is the Roman Army
Chariot Experience of Jerash (p128; www.jerashchariots.com). It also operates at Petra (Nabataean
Court), the Ajloun and Karak castles (Salahadin warriors) and the Roman Theatre (orators).
„ Madaba Tourism Development Association (www.visitmadaba.org) is a voluntary community-
based organisation developing tourism products in and around Madaba that use local skills and
resources.
„ Neighbours Paths (www.foeme.org) are four community-based tours in off-the-beaten-track
Dead Sea Basin areas along the Jordan River. It focuses on cross-border issues like water and
peace-building.
„ Zikra Initiative (www.zikrajordan.org) is a fast-developing, homespun program that connects
urbanites (Jordanians and internationals) to people living in rural areas. A modest participa-
tion fee helps fund activities and provision microloans for local village ‘entrepreneurs’.

Getting Crafty
Some Jordan craft shops display quality wares fashioned as part of community-based income-
generating programs:
„ Jordan Handicraft Producers Association (Map p90; x4626295; 34 Khirfan Street, Jebel Amman;
h8am-4pm Sat-Thu), with 500 members working from home and small workshops, has inau-
gurated a new showroom in a 120-year-old stone building.
lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • T r a v e l L i t e r a t u re 23

TRAVEL LITERATURE
Johann Ludwig (also known as Jean Louis) Burckhardt spent many years
in the early-19th century travelling extensively through Jordan, Syria
and the Holy Land, disguised as a pilgrim and compiling a unique and
scholarly travelogue detailing every facet of the culture and society he
encountered along the way. The result is Travels in Syria and the Holy
Land, which documents his ‘rediscovery’ of Petra (see p215).
The redoubtable Englishwoman Gertrude Bell wrote a few memoirs
about her travels in the region in the early 20th century, including the
somewhat dated and light-hearted The Desert and the Sown, though it’s
mostly concerned with Syria.
TE Lawrence’s classic Seven Pillars of Wisdom is one of those books
that most people have heard of but few people have read. That’s not
altogether surprising given its long-winded accounts of skirmishes on

„ Jordan River Foundation (p114; www.jordanriver.jo) has its primary showroom in Jebel Amman,
displaying works from its three major projects – Bani Hamida Women’s Weaving Project
(p197), Al-Karma Centre Jordan River Designs Project (embroidery) and Wadi Al-Rayan Handi-
craft Project (woven cattail-reed and banana-leaf products).
„ Jordanian Hashemite Fund for Human Development’s Beit al-Bawadi (p114; www.beitalbawadi
.com) in Abdoun hosts a ceramics showroom, weekly farmers market (Souq al-Ard; h10am-2pm
Sat Oct-Jul) and community-development partners tackling recycling, poverty reduction and
hunger alleviation.
„ Made in Jordan (p242; www.madeinjordan.com), in Wadi Musa, sells crafts from various local en-
terprises. Products include olive oil, soap, paper, ceramics, table runners, embroidery, camel-
hair shawls and bags.
„ Nature shops figure prominently at the Wild Jordan Centre (p114) in Amman and RSCN visi-
tor centres in Ajloun, Azraq, Mujib, Dana and Wadi Rum.
„ Noor Al-Hussein Foundation (www.nooralhusseinfoundation.org) maintains a showroom in Aqaba
(p259) as well as links to now-independent projects selling NHF-labelled products in Iraq Al-
Amir (p119), Salt (p121) and Wadi Musa (Nabataean Women’s Cooperative).

Dwelling on Dwellings
There are a few sustainably run accommodation options in Jordan.
„ Ammarin Bedouin Camp (p245; www.bedouincamp.net) near Little Petra.
„ Dana Hotel (p209; dana.hotel@yahoo.com) overlooking the Dana Biosphere Reserve.
„ Ibbin Apartments (Map p126; x0795636154; r JD20-40) are 24 community cooperative-owned,
fully equipped, two-bedroom lodgings. Experience rural life in Jordan just 15km northwest of
Jerash.
„ RSCN (www.rscn.org.jo) runs ethical and sustainable accommodation with nature and commu-
nity sensibilities in mind.
„ Bedouin cooperative campgrounds at Wadi Rum (p272) and Diseh (p275).

Finding Fair Services

„ The Jordan Inbound Tour Operators Association (www.jitoa.org), a voluntary umbrella
organisation, is a good place to research tour operators.
„ Fair Trade Jordan (www.fairtradejordan.org) has an online database that reviews all tourism-
related products and services according to responsible criteria.
24 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • T o p 1 0 lonelyplanet.com

&t
sttinian documents the Arab Revolt of 1919
horseback. Nevertheless,alleLawrence

TOP 10 ries
rr ittoowithout
with ‘colour and flair’ ifTenot

JORDA
partiality; he is at his most inspired
when describing the desert scenery of Wadi Rum. N
DRIVES
Jordan is a wonderful place to hire a car and go exploring, as the landscape changes dramatically
from desert to temperate within a remarkably short distance. For details of some of the most
spectacular drives linking the King’s Highway and Dead Sea Highway, see the boxed text, p170.

1 Umm Qais (p141) to Al-Himma (p145): 6 Across Wadi Mujib (p198) and Wadi Hasa
Along the border of three nations (p204): The ‘Grand Canyons’ of Jordan
2 Mt Nebo (p193) to Suweimeh: Panoramic 7 Qadsiyya to Dana Guest House (p209):
views over the Promised Land Unravelling views of Wadi Dana
3 Dead Sea Panorama (p177) to Dead Sea 8 Around Wadi Rum (p269): Driving in the
Highway: Views of the salt sea dunes in a 4WD
4 Dead Sea Highway, south of Safi (p180): 9 Little Petra (p244) to Feinan (p205):
Fields red with tomatoes A superb journey through time
5 Madaba (p183) to Hammamat Ma’in (p177): 10 Aqaba (p247) to Azraq (p153): Across the
Hell’s cauldron of sulphurous springs inauspicious Badia

ECO-EXPERIENCES
There are heaps of opportunities to support Jordan’s conservation efforts while enjoying some of
the best hospitality and wilderness areas. Here are 10 ‘must-dos’ if you’re keen to travel green.

1 Hike to see Ajloun’s soapmakers at work 6 Enjoy a vegetarian supper in candlelit

(p136). Feinan Lodge (p210)
2 Savour a wild-berry smoothie in Amman’s 7 Give your sunglasses an embroidered treat
Wild Jordan Centre (p95). from Dana craft shop (p207)
3 Learn about Azraq’s Chechens over a home- 8 Buy a handmade string of cloves in Petra
cooked feast at Azraq Lodge (p155). (p213)
4 Buy a hand-loomed rug from the Bani 9 Take a camel trip in the company of a
Hamida workshop (p197) Bedouin guide (p289)
5 Wake up to birdsong at beautiful Rummana 10 Overnight with the Bedouin at a camp in
campground (p210) Wadi Rum (p272)

RUINS
Almost every stone in Jordan has a history, and the stone piles listed here have more history
than most.

1 Jerash (p124): Superb Roman ruins 6 Qusayr Amra (p161): Saucy frescoes in a
2 Karak Castle (p199): Biggest Crusader castle ‘desert castle’
in Jordan 7 Shobak Castle (p211): Remote Crusader
3 Khirbet Tannour (p204): Minimal Nabataean castle
site in spectacular landscape 8 Umm al-Jimal (p151): Abandoned basalt
4 Madaba (p195): Remote Bronze Age village in Eastern desert
dolmens 9 Umm Qais (p141): Roman and Byzantine city
5 Petra (p217): Unparalleled Nabataean 10 Umm ar-Rasas (p197): World Heritage site
capital of churches and mosaics
 © Lonely Planet Publications
lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • Fi l m s 25

UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITES IN JORDAN

„ Petra (listed 1985; p213)
„ Qusayr Amra (listed 1985; p161)
„ Dana Nature Reserve (Biosphere Reserve, listed 1998; p205)
„ Umm ar-Rasas (listed 2004; p197)

horseback. Nevertheless, Lawrence documents the Arab Revolt of

1919 with ‘colour and flair’ if not without partiality; he is at his most
inspired when describing the desert scenery of Wadi Rum.
Annie Caulfield’s Kingdom of the Film Stars: Journey into Jordan A CLASSIC THAT
is an entertaining, personal account of the author’s relationship with NEARLY WASN’T
a Bedouin man in Jordan. Similarly, Marguerite van Geldermalsen’s
Married to a Bedouin is a sympathetic account of bringing up a fam- Lawrence left the manu-
ily in the ancient city of Petra. Walking the Bible by Bruce Feiler is script of his masterpiece
an engaging travelogue that follows Feiler’s travels through Egypt, at ‘Reading Station, while
Israel and the Palestinian Territories and Jordan, searching for the changing trains’ in 1919.
physical roots of the Bible. Feiler shows considerably more empathy He rewrote a second draft
for people and places in Israel and the Palestinian Territories than from memory but burned
those of the Arab world, but writes well on the archaeology of the ‘all but one page’ of it.
Holy Land. The third version, par-
For books on Petra, see p218. tially written in Amman,
has endured.
FILMS
Don’t miss David Lean’s epic Lawrence of Arabia (1962), starring Peter
O’Toole as Lawrence and filmed partly in Wadi Rum. The lesser-known
A Dangerous Man: Lawrence After Arabia (1991) stars Ralph Fiennes in
one of his earliest film roles.
Petra’s Siq and Treasury landed a starring role as the hiding place of
the Holy Grail in the closing scenes of Stephen Spielberg’s Indiana Jones
and the Last Crusade (1989), starring Harrison Ford and Sean Connery.
The film plays nightly in the budget guesthouses of Wadi Musa.

INTERNET RESOURCES
Bible Places (www.bibleplaces.com) Interesting rundown on biblical sights in Jordan and Israel
and the Palestinian Territories.
Jordan Jubilee (www.jordanjubilee.com) The best website about Jordan, loaded with practical
tips; offers a wonderful window onto Jordanian society.
Jordan Tourism Board (www.visitjordan.com) Good official website.
Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com). The Thorn Tree has an active range of Jordan experts
who offer good advice if you post a question.
Madaba (www.madaba.freeservers.com) Excellent description of Madaba’s attractions and other
nearby sites.
Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities (www.tourism.jo) Online brochures, maps and more
RSCN (www.rscn.org.jo) Accessible information about Jordan’s environmental and ecotourism
projects. The ‘Adventures’ and ‘Wild Jordan’ sections are particularly recommended.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
26

Itineraries
CLASSIC ROUTES
IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF KINGS One Week / Amman to Aqaba
Get a taste for Jordan’s Roman history at the citadel (p97) in Amman on
day one, before cheering on the racing chariots at the spectacular Roman
ruins of Jerash (p124) on day two. On day three, piece together a biblical
history in the mosaic town of Madaba (p183) and, like Moses, survey the
Promised Land from neighbouring Mt Nebo (p193).
Spend day four following the caravans of history by travelling the
ancient King’s Highway to Petra, crossing the mighty Wadi Mujib gorge.
Visit the Crusader castles in Karak (p201) and Shobak (p211) and listen for
hooves clattering through cobbled corridors.
Make an early start on day five to see the Siq (p223) at Petra at its best.
Climb the High Place of Sacrifice and picnic under an oleander bush. On
day six, slither through narrow Wadi Muthlim (p231) and end your visit to
the rose-red city at the iconic Monastery (Al-Deir; p230).
Finish the week at Wadi Rum (p260), pacing through the beautiful desert
by camel. From here, the lively seaside town of Aqaba (p247) is only an
hour away.

Unravel a path
through Jordan’s
most famous
sites, brushing
sides (real and
imagined) with
Roman legion- Jerash

naires, Christian Mt
Nebo AMMAN
craftsmen, Islamic
Madaba
warriors and
Wadi
Mujib
Bedouin nomads.
Hire a car or Karak

charter a taxi for

the King’s High-
way and overnight
Shobak
in Amman, Wadi Petra

Musa and Aqaba.

Wadi
Aqaba Rum
lonelyplanet.com I T I N E R A R I E S • • C l a s s i c R o u t e s 27

GET PHYSICAL IN JORDAN’S GREAT OUTDOORS

Two Weeks / Amman to Madaba
In the first three days, get a taste for the cedar-lands of the north by visiting
Amman (p86), Jerash (p123) and the oak woodlands of Ajloun Nature Reserve
(p135). Spend day four descending to the Jordan Valley, pausing at the
point where Jesus was baptised in Bethany-Beyond-the-Jordan (p169).
Follow the river to the Dead Sea (p172) and treat yourself to a spa and
a night of luxury in one of the Dead Sea resorts (p176 and an early morn-
ing float on day five at the world’s lowest point. Survey the West Bank
from a higher vantage point at the Dead Sea Panorama (p177) en route for
Wadi Mujib Nature Reserve (p179). Splash, swim and struggle through ‘Petra
with water’ on the unguided Siq Trail (p180). Dry out along the Dead Sea
Highway to Lot’s Cave (p181) and swap stories about the adventure at
candlelit Feinan Lodge (p210).
Enjoy days six and seven at Aqaba, sparing time for a dive or snorkel (p277)
in the fabled Red Sea. With batteries recharged, tackle a hike in Wadi Rum
(p260) on day eight and overnight in a Bedouin camp (p272). On days nine
and 10 in Petra, join Petra by Night (p238) for a magical view of the Siq.
Follow the ancient King’s Highway from Petra to Madaba on day 11,
calling in at Siq al-Barid (Little Petra, p244) and Shobak (p211), then stay-
ing overnight at Dana Nature Reserve (p209). Relax on day 12 taking village
walks, or a longer hike with a guide.
Spend day 13 making the most of the King’s Highway to Madaba, paus-
ing at Herod’s Castle (p196) in Mukawir en route. Allow time on the last
day for some souvenir shopping (p191) in Madaba, the closest town to the
international airport, or at craft shops in nearby Mt Nebo (p193).
Store up some
energy for this
ambitious route
around Jordan’s
Ajloun Nature most magical
Reserve
places, combining
Jordan Jerash
Valley some physical
Bethany-
Beyond- Mt
AMMAN
effort with the
the-Jordan Nebo
extreme sport of
Madaba
Dead Sea
Panorama Mukawir
spa-going. Hire
Dead
Sea Wadi Mujib
a car or charter
Nature Reserve
a taxi from the
Lot's Cave Dead Sea resorts
Feinan
Lodge
to Aqaba, and to
Dana
Nature traverse the King’s
Reserve
Highway.
Petra

Wadi
Aqaba Rum
 28 I T I N E R A R I E S • • R o a d s Le s s T r a v e l l e d lonelyplanet.com

ROADS LESS TRAVELLED

DESOLATELY INSPIRING Three Weeks / Jerash to Umm al-Jimal
Collect a car from the airport or Amman and head north to Jerash (p123),
your base for three days. Visit Ajloun and the Islamic castle of Qala’at ar-
Rabad (p134). Amble on to Umm Qais (p141) and edge round the top of the
country through numerous checkpoints along the border between three
nations. Follow the signs to Pella (p146), then return to Jerash.
From Salt (p120) take the descent (p170) to Bethany-Beyond-the-
Jordan. Follow signs for Mt Nebo (p193) through Bedouin grazing grounds.
Stay the next three days in Madaba (p183), using one day to explore the
town, one for visiting Hesban (p195) and another to go to Mukawir (p195)
and the Wadi Mujib lookout (p198). Take an escort to the dolmens of Wadi
Jadid (p195) continuing on an unmapped road to the Dead Sea Highway.
Aiming for Feinan Lodge (p210), note an unmapped road to the right sign-
posted ‘Bayder’. This drive (p170) leads from the desert of Wadi Araba
into Siq Al-Barid (Little Petra, p244).
After three days in Petra (p213) and three in Wadi Rum (p260), brave the
Hwy 5 from Ma’an across the featureless and forbidding Badin, noting
the white boulders that litter the endless plain. After crossing such barren
lands, even the shrunken waters of Azraq (p153) seem like a miracle.
Use Azraq as a base to explore the desert castles of Qasr Karama (p163)
and Qusayr Amra (p161) before taking Hwy 10 to the brooding basalt ruins
of Umm al-Jimal (p151), a fitting end to a desolate but inspiring tour.
Want to get away
from it all? Then
this wild route,
zigzagging from Umm
Qais
high ground to Umm
Pella
al-Jimal
low ground along Qala'at
Ajloun
Eastern
ar-Rabad Jerash Desert
some of the most Salt
10
AMMAN
spectacular and Bethany-
Beyond- Hesban
Qusayr
Amra
the-Jordan
remote roads in Madaba Qasr
Azraq
Mt Nebo
the region, could Mukawir
Kharana

be the trip for you. Wadi Mujib

Nature Reserve
Expect only sheep
and goats for
Feinan
company. Lodge
5

Little Petra Badia

Petra

Ma'an

Wadi Rum
lonelyplanet.com I T I N E R A R I E S • • R o a d s Le s s T r a v e l l e d 29

JORDAN’S NATURE RESERVES Two Weeks / Amman to Wadi Mujib

Follow ‘a road less travelled’ in spring when hiking paths will be knee-
deep in wildflowers. Fuel up on organic fare at the Wild Jordan Centre (p95)
in Amman before beginning this energetic itinerary, and book accom-
modation and guides for Jordan’s reserves at the same time.
Hike through pistachio and oak hillsides in Ajloun Nature Reserve (p135)
to meet local soapmakers, remembering to buy a bar from the shop before
you leave. Enquire about Abraham’s Path (p52) if you want your hike to
take on more epic dimensions in the footsteps of the prophet. The nearby
Dibeen Nature Reserve (p137) is peaceful for a picnic under the peeling
barks of strawberry trees, in the company of Jordanian families fleeing
the fumes of Amman.
For a complete contrast, head next for the rarely visited Azraq Wetland
Reserve (p156) and Shaumari Wildlife Reserve (p156), for your best chance
of spotting oryx. In addition, there’s the pleasure of meeting the Chechen
locals. Ask at Azraq Lodge (p155) for a tour of its cottage industries.
Next, sample the grazing lands around Madaba (p183). Strike out for
the Spring of Moses (p195) and follow any goat track wrapped around the
contours: you’re bound to find a glass of mint tea with local Bedouin at
the end of it. Camp at Rummana (p210) and thread your way along the
escarpment of Dana Nature Reserve (p205) to the terraced gardens of Dana
Village. Hike through three bio-zones to Feinan Lodge (p210) on the floor
of Wadi Araba (p181).
Travel along the Desert Highway to wet and wild Wadi Mujib Nature
Reserve (p179) where you may cross a party of schoolchildren squealing
their way up the Siq Trail (p180) as you’re sliding down.
Although this
itinerary through
Jordan’s nature
reserves takes you
off-road, it doesn’t
Ajloun Nature Reserve & consign you to a
Dibeen Nature Reserve
fortnight of your
AMMAN
own company.
Moses'
Azraq Wetland Reserve
& Shaumari
Appreciate the
Spring Wildlife Reserve wisdom of the
Wadi Mujib Royal Society for
Nature Reserve
the Conservation
of Nature’s policy
of local involve-
Dana
Nature ment as you meet
Reserve
the people of
Jordan (see p74 for
details).
© Lonely Planet Publications
30 I T I N E R A R I E S • • Ta i l o re d T r i p s lonelyplanet.com

TAILORED TRIPS
BIBLICAL JORDAN
The east bank of the Jordan has been repeatedly touched by the prophets,
and modern-day pilgrims can follow in the footsteps of such illustrious
company as Abraham, Jacob, Moses, Joshua, Elijah, John the Baptist and
Jesus. Over 100 sites in Jordan are mentioned in the Bible alone.
The single most important site is Bethany-Beyond-the-Jordan (p169),
where Jesus is said to have been baptised and where Elijah ascended to
heaven on a fiery chariot. Just north of here Joshua led the tribes of Israel
across the Jordan River into the Promised Land.
From here, it’s a short climb along the old
pilgrim road to Mt Nebo (p193), where Moses
finally saw the Promised Land before dying.
Umm
Qais A day trip south of Madaba’s famous mosaic
Bethany-
Beyond-
map (p186) are the ruins of Herod’s castle (p195)
the-Jordan Mt Nebo
at Mukawir, where John the Baptist was impris-
Madaba oned and beheaded at the behest of Salome.
Mukawir
Babh-adh Dhra At the southern end of the Dead Sea is Lot’s
Lot's Cave Cave (p181) where Lot’s wife turned to salt and
Lot’s daughters seduced their father, after they
all fled the destruction of Sodom and Gomorrah
(p181).
Back up north, Jesus performed one of his
lesser-known miracles at Gadara (modern Umm
Qais, p141), turning a band of brigands into a
pack of swine.

LOCATING LAWRENCE
Jordan is ‘El-Lawrence’ (p250) country, the land the eccentric, camel-rid-
ing, dagger-wielding Englishman made his own during the Arab Revolt
of 1917–19.
‘Rumm the Magnificent’ is the natural place to look for Lawrence’s
ghost. Stride past ‘crags like gigantic buildings’, now named Seven Pillars
of Wisdom (p265) in his honour, and go in search of springs where this
officer of the British army once took a naked dip.
Advance through Wadi Umran by camel (see Tours, p274), the words
‘to Aqaba’ floating in the wind. You won’t meet the Ottomans there: their
empire ended as the Arab Revolt swept north. You may pass a goods
train though, rattling by on mended tracks that
Lawrence once helped blast with dynamite.
Turn north as winter sets in, and pad ‘among
the walls and snowy roofs’ of Shobak (p211). Fol-
low the hillcrest to the ‘chess-board houses of
Qasr Dana village’ (p205), and stare into sunny Araba,
al-Azraq
‘fresh and green, thousands of feet below’.
Lawrence was proud of riding between
Aqaba and ‘Azraq the Remote’ (Qasr al-Azraq;
Dana Village
p159) in three days. In only one, you can be
Shobak sitting in Lawrence’s room. He and his Arab
companions left Azraq ‘riding into a glowing
Wadi
Aqaba Rum west, while…schools of cranes flew into the
sunset like the out-drawn barbs of arrows’ – a
good place to let Lawrence’s memory rest.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
THE AUTHORS 340

The Authors
JENNY WALKER Coordinating Author
Jenny Walker’s first involvement with Jordan was as a student, while con-
ducting research for a dissertation on Doughty and Lawrence (BA, University
of Stirling). This experience, together with many other firsthand encounters
with the Middle East, led to a subsequent thesis entitled Perception of the
Arabic Orient for a postgraduate research degree at the University of Oxford.
Jenny has written extensively on the Middle East for Lonely Planet and with
her husband authored Off-Road in the Sultanate of Oman, a country they’ve
lived and worked in for more than a decade. Jenny has travelled in over 95
countries – from Panama to Mongolia – on diverse assignments.
For this edition, Jenny wrote the Destination; Getting Started; Itinerar-
ies; History; The Culture; Environment; Food & Drink; Dead Sea Highway;
King’s Highway; Petra; Aqaba, Wadi Rum & the Desert Highway; Directory;
and Transport chapters.

MATTHEW D FIRESTONE
Matthew is a trained biological anthropologist and epidemiologist, though
he abandoned a promising academic career in favour of spending his youth
living out of a backpack. With his best explorer’s hat and hiking boots in
hand, Matthew blazed a trail across Jordan in the footsteps of Indiana Jones.
Although an excursion to Petra failed to reveal the final location of the Holy
Grail, Matthew’s travels took him from the depths of the Red Sea to the
western border of Iraq. He may not have found eternal life, but at least he
found a bit of adventure – and a whole lot of sand.
For this edition, Matthew wrote the Amman, Jerash & the North, The
Desert Castles, and Diving & Snorkelling chapters.

LONELY PLANET AUTHORS

Why is our travel information the best in the world? It’s simple: our authors are passionate,
dedicated travellers. They don’t take freebies in exchange for positive coverage so you can be
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beaten track. They don’t research using just the internet or phone. They discover new places not
included in any other guidebook. They personally visit thousands of hotels, restaurants, palaces,
trails, galleries, temples and more. They speak with dozens of locals every day to make sure you get
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right, and in telling it how it is. Think you can do it? Find out how at lonelyplanet.com.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
lonelyplanet.com T H E A U T H O R S 341

THE AUTHORS
CONTRIBUTING AUTHORS
Ethan Gelber wrote The Community-Based Travel Trail, p22. Ethan has been a responsible sojourner,
and writing about it, since he first hefted his backpack 25 years ago. His passion for bicycle touring,
communication and community development in travel has led to him guiding bicycle tours, founding
an educational, nonprofit, internet adventure (www.bikeabout.org), creating responsible travel resources
for Sri Lanka (www.localternative.com), media wrangling for a global network of sustainable travel
booking websites (www.whl.travel) and authoring three Lonely Planet cycling guides.

Dr Alon Tal wrote The Dead Sea is Dying, p173. He founded the Israel Union for Environmental Defense
and the Arava Institute for Environmental Studies, and has served as chair of Life and Environment,
Israel’s umbrella group for green organisations. Professor of the Desert Ecology Department at Ben-
Gurion University, he heads the Jewish National Fund’s sustainable development committee and still
finds time to hike and bike around Israel with his wife and daughters.

Hassan Ansah wrote Empowering Palestinian Refugees, p144. Hassan is a freelance writer and journalist
who has taught at the Western International University in Phoenix, Arizona, USA, and at the American
University in Cairo (AUC), Egypt.

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