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Jason Langley/AWL Images
Contents
INTRODUCTION
Where to go
When to go
Author picks
Things not to miss
Tailor-made trips

BASICS
Visas and entry requirements
Getting there
Getting around
Accommodation
Food and drink
The media
Culture and etiquette
Adventure tours and trekking
Shopping
Travelling with children
Travel essentials

THE GUIDE
1 Amman
2 The Dead Sea and Baptism Site
 3 Jerash and the north
4 The eastern desert
5 The King’s Highway
6 Petra
7 Aqaba and the southern desert

CONTEXTS
History
Flora and fauna
Islam
The bedouin today
Books
Arabic
Glossary

SMALL PRINT
Shutterstock

Introduction to
Jordan
Western travellers have been exploring the Middle
East for well over a century, but Jordan is a relative
newcomer to tourism, welcoming only a fraction of
the numbers who visit neighbouring Egypt and
Israel. Its popular image abroad encompasses not
much more than camels and deserts, yet this is a
country of mountains, beaches, castles and ancient
churches, with an urbane people and a rich culture.
It is safe, comfortable and welcoming – and by far
the region’s most rewarding destination.
Jordan is about 85 percent desert, but this one plain word covers a
multitude of scenes, from the dramatic red sands and towering cliffs
of the far south to the vast stony plains of volcanic basalt in the
east. The northern hills, rich with olive trees, teeter over the rift of
the Jordan Valley, which in turn runs down to the Dead Sea, the
lowest point on earth. The centre of the country is carpeted with
tranquil fields of wheat, cut through by expansive canyons and
bordered by arid, craggy mountains. At Jordan’s southernmost tip,
beaches fringe the warm waters of the Red Sea, which harbours
some of the most spectacular coral reefs in the world.
Jordan is part of the land bridge linking Europe, Africa and Asia,
and has seen countless armies come and go. Greeks, Romans,
Muslims, Christian Crusaders and more have left evidence of their
conquests, and there are literally thousands of archeological sites
from all periods in every corner of the country. In addition, Israel
and Palestine, Jordan’s neighbours to the west, have no monopoly
on biblical history: it was in Jordan that Lot sought refuge from
the fire and brimstone of the Lord; Moses, Aaron and John the
Baptist all died in Jordan; and Jesus was almost certainly baptized
here. Even the Prophet Muhammad passed through.
And yet the country is far from being stuck in the past. Amman is
a thoroughly modern Arab capital, and poverty is the exception
rather than the rule. The government, under head of state King
Abdullah II, manages to be simultaneously pro-Western, pro-Arab,
founded on a bedrock of Muslim authority and committed to peace
with Israel. Women are better integrated into positions of power in
government and business than almost anywhere else in the Middle
East. Jordanians are also exceptionally highly educated: roughly four
percent of the total population is enrolled at university, a proportion
comparable to the UK. Traditions of hospitality are ingrained, and
taking up some of the many invitations you’ll get to tea or a meal
will expose you to an outlook among local people that is often as
cosmopolitan and world-aware as anything at home. Domestic
extremism is very rare.
Most people take great pride in their ancestry, whether they’re
present or former desert-dwellers (bedouin) or from a settled
farming tradition (fellahin). Across the desert areas, people still live
and work on their tribal lands, whether together in villages or apart
in individual family units. Many town-dwellers, including substantial
numbers of Ammanis, also claim tribal identity. Belonging to a tribe
(an honour conferred by birth) means respecting the authority of a
communal leader, or sheikh, and living in a culture of shared history,
values and principles that often crosses national boundaries. Notions
of honour and mutual defence are strong. Tribes also wield a great
deal of institutional power: most members of Jordan’s lower house
of parliament are elected for their tribal, rather than political,
affiliation. The king, as sheikh of sheikhs, commands heartfelt
loyalty among many people and respect among most of the rest.

Alamy
FACT FILE
 The Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan (Al Mamlakeh Al
Urduniyyeh Al Hashmiyyeh, or Al Urdun for short) covers
around 90,000 square kilometres – roughly the same area as
Portugal or Indiana.
Of the 9.9 million population, well over ninety percent are
Muslim Arabs, with small minorities of Christian Arabs, as
well as Muslim Circassians and Chechens. Over thirty percent
of the population are non-Jordanians, including 1.3 million
Syrians.
Life expectancy is around 75 – up from 71 twenty years ago.
Jordan is a constitutional monarchy, with universal suffrage
over the age of 18. The king appoints the prime minister and
together they appoint the cabinet. The Senate is appointed by
the king, and the House of Representatives is voted in by
proportional representation.
Jordan’s per-capita GDP is under US$6000. It has virtually no
oil. Key economic sectors are phosphate and potash
production, as well as tourism.
Jordanian workers are entitled to a minimum wage of
JD190/month (US$268).
King Abdullah’s father, King Hussein, and mother, Toni
Gardiner (later Princess Muna), met on the set of Lawrence of
Arabia in 1961.
King Abdullah once appeared in a non-speaking role in the
TV series Star Trek: Voyager.
The 2015 film The Martian was filmed at Wadi Rum.

National identity is a thorny issue in Jordan, which has taken in

huge numbers of Palestinian refugees since the foundation of the
State of Israel in 1948. Many people from tribes resident east of the
River Jordan before 1948 resent this overbalancing of the country’s
demography, as well as the fact that Palestinians, having developed
an urbanized, entrepreneurial culture, dominate private-sector
business. For their part, Jordanians of Palestinian origin – by some
estimates comprising more than sixty percent of the population –
often resent the “East Bank” Jordanians’ grip on power in
government and the public sector. All are Jordanian citizens, but
citizenship tends to mean less to many of Palestinian origin than
their national identity, and less to many East Bankers than their
tribal affiliation. Recent influxes of refugees from Iraq and Syria, plus
large numbers of long-stay guest workers from Egypt, muddy the
issue still further. “Where are you from?” – a simple enough question
in many countries – is in Jordan the cue for a life story.
Where to go
Jordan’s prime attraction is Petra, an unforgettably dramatic 2000-
year-old city carved from sandstone cliffs in the south of the country.
Its extraordinary architecture and powerful atmosphere imprint
themselves indelibly on most visitors’ imaginations.
There is a wealth of other historical sites, outstanding among
them the well-preserved Roman city of Jerash, but also including
Umm Qais, set on a dramatic promontory overlooking the Sea of
Galilee, and Madaba, which has the oldest known map of the
Middle East, in the form of a Byzantine mosaic laid on the floor of a
church. After the Muslim conquest, the Umayyad dynasty built a
series of retreats in the Jordanian desert, now dubbed the “Desert
Castles”, including the bathhouse of Qusayr Amra, adorned with
naturalistic and erotic frescoes. Centuries later, the Crusaders
established a heavy presence in southern Jordan, most impressively
with the huge castles at Karak and Shobak. The Arab resistance to
the Crusader invasion left behind another fortress at Ajloun in the
north.
iStock
TRAVELLING THROUGH THE WADI RUM DESERT

THE SEARCH FOR WATER

Jordan is one of the five driest countries in the world. Annual
consumption per capita (calculated as renewable water
resources withdrawn) is about 170 cubic metres, compared with
630 as the world average, 800 across the Middle East/North
Africa region – and 1650 in North America. Almost a third of the
water used in Jordan comes from non-sustainable or
nonrenewable sources. Three decades of pumping from the
once-abundant Azraq oasis has brought it to the point of
collapse. The River Yarmouk sports a large dam shared by
Jordan and Syria, and all the major valleys leading down to the
Dead Sea are now dammed in an effort to stop water draining
into the salty lake – which has contributed to its rapid shrinking.
Every winter the local newspapers publish reports tabulating
levels of water storage in the country’s reservoirs, while
Jordanians anxiously wait for rain. Water rationing is in place in
Amman over the summer, though a US$1.1-billion pipeline now
brings fossil water to the capital from desert aquifers at Disi, and
plans are afoot for desalination plants on the Red Sea.

Jordan is part of the “Holy Land”: its religious sites include the
Baptism Site of Jesus on the banks of the River Jordan, and
Mount Nebo, from where Moses looked over the Promised Land.
John the Baptist met his death at Herod’s hilltop palace at Mukawir
after Salome danced her seductive dance. Nearby is Lot’s Cave,
where Abraham’s nephew sought refuge from the destruction of
Sodom and Gomorrah.
Your most abiding memories of a visit are likely to be of Jordan’s
varied and beautiful natural environment. With its sheer cliffs and
red sands, austere Wadi Rum – where David Lean filmed Lawrence
of Arabia – presents the classic desert picture of Jordan. Less well-
known are the gentle northern hills around the Ajloun forests,
hosting walks through flower-strewn meadows and cool, shady
woodland. In the south, tranquil Dana overlooks a swathe of
territory from verdant highland orchards down to the sandy desert
floor, offering a memorable hideaway at the Feynan Ecolodge. The
protected Wadi Mujib is a giant canyon, 4km wide at the top, that
narrows to a high, rocky gorge carrying a fast-flowing river down to
the salty Dead Sea, an inland lake too buoyant for swimming but
perfect for floating, your body supported by the density of the salty
water. Last but not least, Jordan has some of the world’s best diving
and snorkelling in the coral-fringed Red Sea off Aqaba.
When to go
Jordan is a year-round destination – but despite its small size,
you’ll find wide variations in climate, often reliant on the
topography: Amman, Petra and Wadi Rum all lie well over 800m
above sea level, Dana and Ajloun are even higher (up to 1500m),
whereas the Dead Sea lies 400m below sea level. The same January
day could have you throwing snowballs in Ajloun or topping up your
tan on the Red Sea beaches.
Getty Images
WADI MUJIB

The best time to visit is spring (March–May), when temperatures

are toasty but not scorching, wild flowers are out everywhere (even
the desert is carpeted), and the hills and valleys running down the
centre of the country are lush and gorgeously colourful. The worst of
the rain is over by March, though it doesn’t entirely peter out in
Amman and the hills until late April. Humidity is pleasant
everywhere, and low, clear sunlight draws a spectacular
kaleidoscope of colour and texture from the desert rocks. There’s
only one drawback – a desert wind, loaded with dust and grit, which
blows regularly each spring or early summer out of the Arabian
interior. It’s known across the Middle East as the khamseen (“fifty”),
after the fifty days it traditionally persists (although in Jordan it
rarely lasts longer than a few days), and can darken the sky and
raise the temperature by 10°C, coating everyone and everything in a
layer of sand.
 In summer (roughly June–Sept), Amman can sizzle – up to 40°C
in the city centre – though it’s a dry heat, rarely uncomfortable, and
the hills catch some cooler breezes. Temperatures at the Dead Sea
and Aqaba, though, have been known to top 45°C, with Aqaba in
particular suffering from an intolerable hot wind that makes you feel
like you’re basting in a fan-assisted oven. High, hazy light flattens
the brown landscape and bleaches any beauty out of the desert.
Copy the locals, and treat the hours between noon and 3pm as a
time to snooze in the cool indoors.
Typical autumn weather (mid-Sept to mid-Nov) mostly passes
Jordan by, with only a few weeks marking the shift out of high
summer – if you catch it, this can be a lovely time to visit. The first
rains fall in early or mid-October, making the parched countryside
bloom again and temperatures drop to more manageable levels.
In winter (roughly Dec–Feb), Amman can be desperately chilly,
with biting winds sweeping through the valleys, rain showers and
even snowfall, although the sun is still never far away. With short
days and freezing nights, Petra winters can be taxing; exceptional
lows of -8°C have been recorded. Rum is more temperate, but
Aqaba makes a fine retreat, with sunshine and warmth even in the
depths of January (average Red Sea and Dead Sea water
temperatures vary little either side of a balmy 24°C all year).
Author picks
After “Is it safe?”, the question people always ask author
Matthew Teller is “What’s your favourite place?” That tends to
change with every visit, but after 25 years – and dozens of trips
– he’s built up a few personal favourites.
Desert hideaways Wadi Rum offers classic Jordanian
desertscapes. A quirky choice would be Azraq, to go on safari
and visit a holy tree – but for all-round quality of experience,
Feynan trumps all.
Urban flavours A stroll on Rainbow Street or around Jabal Al
Lweibdeh can open up Amman. Salt has a great little souk, while
Madaba exemplifies Jordan’s easy-going, warm-hearted urban
charm.
Rural retreats Jordan’s countryside is much overlooked. Ajloun
is a highland beauty, and Umm Qais never fails to inspire –
though unforgettable Dana wins out every time.
Evocative ruins Jordan is packed with them. Petra’s Treasury
takes the biscuit, while Roman Jerash always fascinates. Get off
the beaten track to sample Shobak castle, Qasr al-Abd and
haunting Qasr Kharana.
Hidden campsites Although the nature reserves offer nights
under canvas, you could also strike out alone. Try the rural
camping at Rasoun or Shobak – then hold onto your hat for the
amazing clifftop site at Nawatef.
Best views How to choose? Mount Nebo is a jaw-dropper, Wild
Jordan Center has a stunning urban panorama, and Dana
astounds, but the view from Umm Qais will replay itself in
perpetuity every time you close your eyes.
If you do only one thing in Jordan… Go star-gazing at
Feynan. Or walk through the Siq at dawn. Or meet the locals in
Al Ayoun. Make that three things.
Our author recommendations don’t end here. We’ve flagged
up our favourite places – a perfectly sited hotel, an
atmospheric café, a special restaurant – throughout the
Guide, highlighted with the symbol.
Alamy
STREET MARKET, SALT

SuperStock
RURAL CAMPING
30
things not to miss
It’s not possible to see everything that Jordan has to
offer in one trip – and we don’t suggest you try.
What follows, in no particular order, is a selective
taste of the country’s highlights: striking natural
landscapes, absorbing ruins and memorable
experiences. All highlights are colour-coded by
chapter and have a page reference to take you
straight into the Guide, where you can find out more.

iStock

1 WADI RUM
Experience the atmosphere of the open desert in the stunning company of sheer
mountains, red dunes and vast, silent panoramas.
iStock

2 JORDANIAN CUISINE
Sample some of the Middle East’s finest restaurants in Amman – or scoff Jordan’s
national dish, mansaf, at a bedouin gathering in the desert.
Jean-Christophe Godet/Rough Guides

3 AJLOUN
Set amid the northern hills is a magnificent Crusaderperiod castle, within easy
reach of a tranquil nature reserve.

Dreamstime.com

4 BAPTISM SITE
A pilgrimage spot alongside the River Jordan at the place where Jesus was
baptized, commemorated by dozens of ancient churches and hermitages.
Shutterstock

5 RED SEA DIVING AND SNORKELLING

You don’t have to be a diver to come nose to nose with a turtle: coral reefs and
multicoloured fish await just beneath the surface of this warmest and clearest of
seas.
iStock

6 DANA
Jordan’s flagship nature reserve, covering a sweep of territory from highland cliffs
to the sandy desert floor. Whether you come for the hiking, the natural
environment or the silence, you won’t want to leave.
Jean-Christophe Godet/Rough Guides

7 THE “DESERT CASTLES”

Venture east of Amman to explore a string of early-Islamic forts, palaces, hunting
lodges and caravanserais, dotted across the stony desert plains.
iStock

8 JERASH
A spectacularly wellpreserved Roman city, complete with colonnaded streets,
grand temples, intimate marketplaces and mosaic-floored churches.
Shutterstock

9 HIKING
There are plenty of opportunities to get off the beaten track in Jordan’s back
country for a day or a week, whether alone or with an adventure tour company.

Alamy

10 FEYNAN ECOLODGE
Hole up at this beautifully designed ecofriendly desert hotel, far from the nearest
road, for rugged walking, fascinating cultural encounters and epic star-gazing.
Jean-Christophe Godet/Rough Guides

11 TAKING TEA
The hospitality of Jordanians is legendary: whether you’re passing through a city
or crossing the desert, you’re bound to be invited in for tea.

Jean-Christophe Godet/Rough Guides

12 ANCIENT AMMAN
Roman columns and the ruins of an Islamic-era palace tower over Amman, gazing
down on a huge Roman theatre in the heart of the city.
iStock

13 PETRA
Magnificent ancient city hidden away in the craggy mountains of the south – one
of the world’s must-see attractions.
Shutterstock
14 MODERN AMMAN
Take time out from ruinhunting to explore the capital’s buzzing cafés, galleries and
restaurants – a side of the city few visitors experience.

Alamy

15 THE DEAD SEA

Enjoy spectacular sunsets at the lowest point on earth, floating effortlessly on this
inland lake supported only by the density of the salty water.
Jean-Christophe Godet/Rough Guides

16 THE KING’S HIGHWAY

Meandering its way north and south along the lonely hilltops, this most
picturesque of historic routes links the farming towns of southern Jordan.
iStock

17 UMM QAIS
Atmospheric Roman and Ottoman site in the far north of Jordan, offering
spectacular views over the Sea of Galilee – and relatively few tourists.
iStock

18 MOUNT NEBO
Follow in the footsteps of Moses to this summit above the Dead Sea (named in
Deuteronomy), to gaze out over the Promised Land.
Another Random Scribd Document
with Unrelated Content
 THE NEWS OF VICTORY
At last, as the sun was sinking over the western hills, and the
shadows lengthening, tidings from the battlefield came, and joyful
news it was.
The firing had just ceased, except now and then a cannon shot in
the distance; the battery in our front had ceased firing—there was
an ominous silence; the very air around us, hot and sultry as it was,
seemed surcharged with something more than summer heat and
sulphuric fumes from exploding shells. Every man was now on his
feet, all nerves were strung to the highest pitch; every one, from the
highest officer to the humblest private, wore a look of intense
anxiety, all in silent expectancy. What did all this portend? Was it a
calm before a mightier storm than we had heard during the day, that
was about to burst? Or had the storm already spent itself, and what
was the result? Or had the contestants in the deadly all-day strife up
the run been exhausted, and lay limp and impotent on the ground,
unable to strike another blow, the one at the other? Or had they, like
the Kilkenny cats, devoured each other, leaving none to tell the tale?
As the noise of battle died away, from away up the run we heard
shouts and cheers, at first scarcely audible, then louder and nearer
came the cheers, rolling along down the valley of Bull Run in
seeming waves of mingled voices, each wave rising higher and more
distinct. Messengers mounted on fleet-footed steeds, which that day
had become war horses that sniffed the smoke of battle, not "from
afar," but on the very field of strife and carnage, hurried down the
lines along the run, shouting, "Victory! victory! victory; complete
victory!" Each detachment took up the joyous shout and wafted it on
to those below. From Mitchell's Ford, just above us, where Bonham
and his South Carolinians on the 18th held the fort and let fly the
dogs of war on the enemy's flank, Longstreet's Brigade caught the
inspiration and raised its first "Rebel yell" that made the welkin ring,
and sent the glad and glorious news on down to Jones and his men
at McLean's Ford, and quickly came the echo back in ringing peals.
Then details of the victory began to come in. The enemy was
completely routed; many prisoners and many guns had been
captured. Then it came that "Long Tom," a noted Yankee cannon,
was captured; then that Sherman's Battery, the crack artillery of the
United States Army, was taken; then that Rickett's, another noted
battery, and also Griffin's, had all been captured. The first mentioned
battery, with Capt. W. T. Sherman in command, won laurels in the
Mexican War, and had been known ever since as Sherman's Battery.
Longstreet at once led his brigade forward into the open field, at the
farther side of which was a redoubt with abattis in front, where had
been stationed the Yankee guns that shelled us all day. How
different were our feelings now from what they would have been if
we had entered this field during the day, and been met by a shower
of shot, shell, grape and canister! Now, we were without fear,
exultant and in high spirits; before, we would have been rent with
missiles of death, great gaps would have been torn through the
column of regiments, and many would have been left wounded and
dead on the field.
The brigade marched on into the woods beyond the field towards
Centreville, bivouacking on the ground of a Yankee camp, which the
enemy had just abandoned, leaving evidences of hasty departure;
coffee, sugar, hard-tack, and many articles of food and equipments
lay scattered around. Some of the men shouted, "Don't eat them
things, they may be pizened." Later on the "pizen" was not for a
moment considered when a Yankee camp was raided, and when
many a hungry Rebel ate to his full once more.
As the Eleventh Regiment was taking position in camp for the night,
General Longstreet, "Old Pete," as he was sometimes called, rode
close by, when Colonel Garland called on the men of the Eleventh to
give three cheers for General Longstreet, which were given with a
will, then some one, Captain Clement, I think, called out, "Three
cheers for Colonel Garland," and again the shouts were raised.
Warnings were sent not to use the water from Bull Run; it was said
the stream up about the stone bridge was filled with dead Yankees
and overflowing its banks from the obstructions of the bodies. This
was a great exaggeration; in fact, few, if any, Yankees were dead in
the stream.
The Yankee army was in full retreat, and more; the larger part of it
was in complete rout and panic. The cry of "On to Richmond" was
quickly changed to "Back to Washington."
A soldier, unless panic stricken, will hold on to his gun to the last;
only when completely demoralized does he cast away his weapon of
offense and defense, then he is little more than a frightened animal.
The army of Northern Virginia was never panic stricken. General Lee
said, "My men sometimes fail to drive the enemy, but the enemy
does not drive my men," which was literally true up to the very
beginning of the end, or rather, if the expression is permissible, up
to the very ending of the end. Let the mind run back over the long
list of desperate encounters that this army had with the enemy
during those four bloody years, and this will be found to be literally
true.
 THE ENEMY NOT PURSUED
Much has been said about the failure of a vigorous pursuit of the
enemy at and immediately after this battle of Manassas. Without
going into details or giving reasons in in extenso for my opinion, I
have always contended that Johnston and Beauregard acted wisely
and prudently under all the circumstances. No one in the
Confederate army at the close of that day knew or had any means of
knowing how panic stricken the Yankee soldiers really were. There
were several thousand soldiers in and around Centreville, who had
not been engaged, in position and condition to resist a pursuit by
any force the Confederates could have sent against them that night;
it's a very risky business to pursue a retreating army in the night
time; traps, ambuscades, and surprises are easily planned and
executed, into which the rash pursuers are sure to fall. A large
majority of the Confederate troops had been marching or fighting, or
both, all day, many without rations, and were in no condition to
pursue the enemy ten, fifteen or twenty miles that night. The bulk of
the fleeing enemy had gotten several miles away, and was still
going, before it could have been possible to organize anything like a
systematic and immediate pursuit. Even if the enemy had had no
organized rear guard, it would have been one mob pursuing another
mob.
The Confederate army could not have possibly reached the vicinity of
the Potomac River opposite Washington City before the next day,
and then not before noon. Here all approaches were well fortified,
mounted with siege guns and manned, and the capture of
Washington would have been an impossibility.
So then, away with the cry then raised by bomb-proof generals in
editors' chairs a hundred miles or more away, and, as has been since
often repeated, that "if Johnston and Beauregard had pursued, or if
Jeff Davis, who came upon the scene of action late in the afternoon,
had not prevented a pursuit, Washington could have been captured
and the war then and there ended." I did not believe then, have not
since, nor now believe, that any such thing could have been
accomplished.
And above and far beyond all opinions and speculations on this
question is the fact, that Joseph E. Johnston, G. T. Beauregard, and
Jefferson Davis were all on the ground, and if these three men, with
all their experience, wisdom and information did not know what was
the right thing to do, who could, would, or should have known?
In this battle the losses were nothing like as large as expected,
when all was summed up. The Confederate loss was estimated at a
little less than four hundred killed and not quite fifteen hundred
wounded.
The enemy lost about five hundred killed, one thousand wounded,
and about fifteen hundred prisoners.
The Confederates captured many pieces of cannon, thousands of
small arms, accoutrements, camp equipage, etc.
 GATHERING THE SPOILS
On the next day, the 22d of July, Longstreet's Brigade was detailed
to scour the country between Centreville and the Stone Bridge to
secure the cast-away arms and equipments the Yankees left in their
wild flight from the battlefield. The whole brigade was deployed, as
if in skirmish line, on either side of the Warrenton turnpike,
converging as it moved on to the crossing at the Stone Bridge. The
greater part of the day was spent in picking up muskets, cartridge-
boxes, belts, knapsacks, haversacks, canteens, coats, hats, blankets,
etc. It was a dark, drizzly, foggy day, much of the way through
second growth pines. I remember as we were crouching beneath the
low-hanging branches of the pines late in the afternoon, some of
Company C were considerably startled by a cry of "halt." It proved to
be a little Yankee soldier, a mere youth, who was hatless and had
been wounded in the head, which was bound up with a bloody
bandage. He had been in hiding since the day before in the pine
thicket, presenting a forlorn appearance as he crept out from his
hiding place. He had called out "halt," doubtless from habit formed
while on guard duty, to attract attention. He was not badly wounded
and was taken along and turned over to the provost guard who had
charge of the prisoners.
Crossing over the stone bridge, the brigade went into camp for the
night at the top of the long hill on the Warrenton pike, on a part of
the battlefield where there were many dead horses and men, broken
cannon carriages, caissons, and ammunition wagons.
Along the road between the stone bridge and Centreville much
flotsam and jetsam, cast-away and abandoned things, lay strewn
around on all sides. Large numbers of people, men and women, had
followed in the wake of the army to witness the battle, and to join in
the "On to Richmond," which all expected to follow at once. It was
currently reported and believed among the Yankee soldiers and
people of the North that the "Rebel army" was but a half-organized
mob, armed only with flint-lock muskets and shotguns that could be
easily brushed out of the way. Great preparations had been made for
a big ball in the city of Richmond within the next few days. Many
carriages filled with women, with all their ball costumes, were also
along; Congressmen and other dignitaries came from Washington to
witness the battle, and see the "Rebels run"; wagons and carts
loaded with baskets of wines, liquors, and other things; stacks of
pound-cake, confectioneries and fruits, oranges, lemons, etc. During
the day, while the "Rebels" were being driven back, these spectators
followed along the road and drew near the stone bridge, all, no
doubt, in high feather and glee with much eating and drinking, and
watched the scenes at the front.
When the tide of battle turned and the stream of flying Yankee
soldiers, artillery, caissons, ammunition wagons and ambulances
came rushing back, these spectators, in dismay and horror, turned to
fly, but the mad rush of the army fleeing was upon them; no respect
was paid to sex or person. It was, "Every man for himself and the
devil take the hindermost."
The Confederate batteries galloped to the top of the hill south of the
run and sent shells screaming along the road. The cavalry crossed
the stone bridge and dashed into the rearmost ranks, all causing
confusion worst confounded. Carriages, carts and wagons were
upset, their occupants and contents dumped out and scattered along
the road. Some of these civilians were taken prisoners, including
Congressman Eli, of percussion-cap fame, whose carriage had
broken down or overturned; I think he was taken to Richmond and
soon afterwards released, and returned to Washington, doubtless a
wiser, if not a better man. At the stone bridge a wagon or gun-
carriage had been overturned or broken down; here there was a
perfect jam of all kinds of vehicles that blocked the bridge.
After this our men were much better supplied with guns, cartridge-
boxes, haversacks, canteens, knapsacks, oilcloths, blankets, and
many other things; and all during the war until the last year, 1865,
the Yankees supplied Lee's army with such things, leaving them
laying around loose on almost every battlefield.
The next day the brigade marched back to camp at Manassas,
passing over much of the battlefield, where still lay among the
scrub-pines many swollen, blackened corpses yet unburied, though
details were at work at the gruesome task. Conspicuous among the
dead bodies could be seen the New York Zouaves with flashy
uniforms and red fez with tassel, loose, red knee-pants and long
stockings; big stalwart fellows they were, with bronzed faces and
necks, but now they lay dead upon the battlefield. And doubtless
some, if not all of us, in the words of the "good old Rebel," "wished
we'd killed some more."
These men had invaded Virginia with guns in their hands, and we
knew they had met their just deserts. Virginia and the South only
wanted to be let alone; peacefully to withdraw from the compact,
leaving the states north of Mason and Dixon's line with their "Union
and their Flag," to cherish and love as they pleased. Only this and
nothing more. But the North would not, as Horace Greeley advised,
"Let their erring sisters of the South depart in peace." Instead, they
waged upon the South a most cruel and devastating war. The
Yankees are still charging that the South tried to break up the United
States Government. This is a false charge. The South made no
attack on the United States Government. The South only attempted
to get from under the yoke of the North and be a free people.
 CHAPTER VI

To Centreville and Fairfax Court House—Picket

Close to the Enemy—Exciting
Times on Picket—Back to Centreville—The
Fight at
Drainesville

On the 24th of July, the brigade broke camp at Manassas and

marched to Centreville, where the Eleventh Regiment pitched its
tents, just on the outskirts of that little hamlet of a few houses.
Other troops were camped round about, all in fine spirits, fast
learning to be soldiers, always keeping up the drills, company and
regimental. Colonel Garland was a fine drill officer and had the
regiment well drilled. While here General Longstreet had brigade
drills a few times, but this did not amount to much, and was never
tried again. In battle the maneuvers practiced in drilling were seldom
used; but drilling learned the men to keep together, rally and get
into line quickly when separated. In battle few orders were heard
except "fall into line," "load," "commence firing," "cease firing,"
"forward," "charge," and the like. Sometimes, but not often, in the
army of Northern Virginia, the command was heard, "fall back."
 ADVANCE TO FAIRFAX COURT HOUSE
On the 10th of August, 1861, the brigade moved to Fairfax Court
House, seven miles. The day was intensely hot, and many fell by the
wayside, going into camp just north of the town; not a very
desirable camping ground, as it was rather low and flat. It rained a
good deal and there was a great deal of sickness, measles, typhoid
fever, and diarrhea. It was surprising how many men had never had
measles; it seemed that half or more of the army had the disease
the first year of the war, and large numbers died from the effects.
Typhoid fever frequently followed the measles, often proving fatal.
While here my brother Coon had measles which was followed by
fever. He was taken to the field hospital near camp, and after
remaining there in a tent a few days, Dr. Thornhill said if he was not
sent away he would die. I immediately went to work and got a sick-
furlough for him, carried him to Manassas in an ambulance, put him
on the train the next day on a mattress and started him for
Lynchburg; he was too sick and weak to sit up, but I could not go
with him. On the train, as good fortune would have it, was the Rev.
H. M. Linney, a Methodist preacher, who was or had been the year
before on the Campbell County circuit. Mr. Linney acted the part of
the Good Samaritan and ministered to his wants until the train
reached Lynchburg, where he was met by my brother-in-law, Mr.
Geo. A. Burks, to whom I had wired. Mr. Burks took him to his house
where he had a long and severe spell of fever.
 PICKET CLOSE TO ENEMY—EXCITING TIMES
After the brigade moved to Fairfax Court House, we did a great deal
of picket duty down towards Alexandria and Washington City, close
to the enemy's line. We were sometimes in sight of the dome of the
capital, and could see the Yankees drilling on the high hills on the
south side of the Potomac River. The Yankees often had a balloon up
in the air, anchored by a long cable, at which a cannon shot would
sometimes be fired, and a shot brought it down. This shot, I think,
was fired by Lieut. Thos. L. Rosser, afterwards General Rosser. The
principal picket posts were at Mason's, Munson's and Upton's Hill's,
Falls Church, and near Annandale.
One night Company C, and a cavalry company commanded by
Captain —— Carter, were on picket near Annandale, close to the
enemy's line, when, about midnight, a squad of Company C, on
outpost duty, came in to the reserve post, and reported that a body
of cavalry was approaching along the road by which we had come
from Centreville. It was at once conjectured that the Yankee cavalry
had, by another road, flanked our position, gotten in the rear and
was attempting to bag the Confederate pickets. Captains Clement
and Carter made disposition of the two companies to give the enemy
a warm reception. Company C was posted along the fence by the
roadside, while Captain Carter formed his company in the field a
short distance in the rear. Instructions were given to the men to let
the cavalry approaching pass along the road until the head of the
column reached the extreme right of our line, and then, at a signal
from Captain Clement, to open fire on them, when Captain Carter
and his company would charge; this was the plan and instructions in
case the approaching horsemen proved to be, as was believed,
Yankees.
The night was dark; objects could be distinguished only a few feet
away. In silence we anxiously awaited the coming of the
approaching cavalrymen, the noise of whose horses' hoofs we soon
heard coming down the hill; the suspense was intense. Every man
had his gun at a "ready," determined, at the proper signal, to pour a
volley into the enemy, who, when along the road in our immediate
front, would not be more than ten feet from the muzzles of the
guns. On, the horsemen came in silence, right along in our front;
each man clutched his musket tighter; not a word or whisper was
uttered, until the front files of the column had reached the right of
the line, when Captain Clement, who had taken position at that
point, called out in his deep bass voice, in a firm tone, "Halt! Who
comes there?" In an instant the horsemen came to a standstill and
the answer to the challenge came from the front files, "Friends, with
the countersign;" whereupon Captain Clement called out, "Advance
one and give the countersign." One of the men came up and in a
low tone gave the word, which, as I remember, was "Richmond."
Captain Clement at once called out, "Countersign correct, advance,
friends," and the scare was over, and each party felt much relieved.
Explanations followed, which developed that this company had been
sent down to strengthen the picket post, and had not taken the
precaution to send a single horseman in front to notify us of their
coming.
These men thought, they said, when they were halted and heard the
click of some of our men's musket locks, as they made ready to fire,
that they were right in the midst of the Yankees. If a single shot had
been fired by either side (and it is often hard to restrain men under
such circumstances), there would have been many friends slain by
friends. I think this was after we moved back to Centreville in the
fall.
Another, and for a time rather serious, but in the end, amusing
incident occurred while on picket near Falls Church. Here the lines
were close together and the pickets often in sight of each other. The
picket forces were heavy, sometimes with a battery of artillery along.
On one occasion the Yankees had a post in a house a few hundred
yards away, across a wooded ravine, and the captain of the battery
concluded he would shell this Yankee post. Company C was drawn
up in line, near by, as a support in case the Yankees made a dash to
capture the guns. Two guns were let loose on the house, and it was
fun to watch the Yankees scamper out and take to their heels. Pretty
soon some one said, "Don't you hear the Yankees bringing up their
guns? They are going to shell us." This changed the humor of the
men very quickly from hilarity and good feelings to solemnity and
anxiety for their own safety. Just as it was expected the Yankee guns
were about to open fire, one of the men, looking pretty nervous and
rather pale about the gills, like most of us, turned to Captain
Clement and said with earnestness, "I don't think it is far to have
cannon on picket." It was great fun to see the Yankees skedaddle,
but quite another thing to be shelled. The Yankees did not shell us,
but we laughed at Peter Cary many times afterwards about this
remark.
While on picket down there at Falls Church we fared fine. I
remember some of us would go every morning to a house for
breakfast, where we feasted on buckwheat cakes, butter, honey and
milk.
Near Mason's Hill, at a picket post, there was a large farm occupied
by a Yankee, who had abandoned it upon the approach of the
Confederates, and gone within the Yankee lines, leaving a fine
garden, large cornfields, fruit, etc. The soldiers were told these
things had been confiscated by the Confederate authorities for their
use, on account of the disloyalty of the owner, and they fairly
feasted on roasting-ears, potatoes, tomatoes, etc.,—boiling camp
kettles full of potatoes and corn. Some of the men would eat as
many as twelve or fourteen ears of corn at one time; Ned Gilliam, I
believe, was the champion corn eater, and Tom and Jabe Rosser,
Sam Franklin, the Tweedy and Jones boys, and others, were close
seconds. I think maybe they appropriated some bee-gums, or their
contents, and perhaps some jars of preserves and other sweets. I
must say that Company C had very few men in it who would forage
illegally. On one occasion a year or two afterwards, I suspected
some of the company of killing a hog while down in the south-side of
Virginia, though I did not know it, and took no pains to investigate,
as meat was very scarce about that time: in fact, we had none, and
it was right hard for a soldier to let a hog bite him and not kill it
when hungry. I have heard soldiers say that they would kill a sheep
if it tried to bite them. Some of the boys told a story on R. H. Jones
about eating, or rather, not eating "stolen hog." Bob was quite
young and very conscientious. On one occasion his mess had fresh
pork for breakfast which they did not draw from the commissary.
When the chops were fried brown and crisp, the boys gathered
around the frying-pan and began eating. Bob sat aloof, munching on
his corn pone, when some one said, "Bob, have some meat." "No,"
drawled Bob, "I don't eat stolen hog," all the while looking at the
pan and nibbling away on his dry bread. Again some one said, "Bob,
you better have some, it's mighty good." Bob reached over towards
the pan with his bread and said, "I won't eat any of the meat, but
will take a little of the gravy."
While encamped around Fairfax Court House, the whole army was
thrown into a high fever of excitement one day by the beating of the
long roll. Under the army regulations the long roll is never beaten
except in cases of emergency—the sudden and unexpected attack or
approach of the enemy. When the long roll is sounded it is the duty
of every drum corps in hearing to take it up and repeat it, and every
man is hastily called to arms. On this occasion the long roll was
started without cause by a fresh "officer of the day," as he said, "to
see what effect it would have." For miles around the drums rolled
and there was much hurrying and scurrying of staff officers and
couriers. I think the "officer of the day" got a court-martial for his
freshness, and very likely, if "old Jube" had the say-so, a good
cussing.
 BACK TO CENTREVILLE
On the 19th or 20th of October, 1861, the army moved back to
Centreville and went into camp—the Eleventh Regiment on the same
ground it had before occupied.
The whole army was encamped round about and along Bull Run;
rations were plentiful and the men passed a very comfortable winter,
making pipes and trinkets from ivy roots dug up along Bull Run,
which had now become historic.
The Fifth Louisian Regiment was camped about one-half mile from
the Eleventh Virginia. The Louisian Regiment had a fine band, and
every afternoon would play many patriotic pieces, including "Dixie,"
"The Bonnie Blue Flag," etc. The Eleventh Regiment also had a very
good band, led by Geo. W. Lyman, of Lynchburg.
We still picketed down close to Fairfax Court House. While on picket
there during the winter I was taken with break-bone fever and sent
home on a sick furlough. It was a rainy time, and I slept one night
on a pile of rails, and the next morning every bone in my body was
aching. I remember telling old Dr. Withers of this after I got home,
when he remarked, "Sleeping on rails is well calculated to make
one's bones ache." I had never seen our little boy, Dixie, who was
born on the 25th of September, 1861, and was then about five
months old. He was a fine little fellow, and a great comfort to his
mother in my absence. Of course, we all enjoyed the home-coming.
While I was away the regiment went on a foraging expedition, in
support of Stuart's Cavalry, north of Centreville. Near Drainesville
they got into a fight with the Yankees, when Wm. H. Hobson, of
Company C, a cousin of my wife, was mortally wounded, being shot
through the bowels, dying soon afterwards. He was the first man of
Company C killed. Lieut. H. C. Chalmers, of Company A, lost an arm
in this fight.
As soon as I was well again, I returned to the army, which was still
at Centreville, where it remained for some time.
While in camp here, Governor Letcher visited the army and
presented each Virginia Regiment with a new State flag. The troops
were all drawn up around one of the forts, the colonels going up into
the fort, the Governor making a speech to each as he presented the
flags, and the colonels, on receiving them, replying. I remember Col.
Eppa Hunton, of the Eighth Virginia, said in his speech, "Every man
in Fauquier County shall be carried home feet foremost before his
flag will be surrendered." I think this was the summer or fall before
or during our first encampment at Centreville.
 CHAPTER VII

Fall Back From Centreville—The Peninsula

Campaign—Yorktown Line Evacuated—The
Battle of Williamsburg—"Give
it to Them"—Into a Hot Fire—Colonel
Garland Wounded—Incidents
of the Battle—Garland
and Kemper
Promoted

Gen. Joseph E. Johnston had been for some time sole commander of
the army, General Beauregard having been ordered south some
months before. Gen. George B. McClellan, who succeeded General
McDowell, was in command of the Yankee army, and had been all
winter recruiting, reorganizing, equipping and drilling what he
claimed to be "the finest army on the planet," some 125,000 strong.
When winter began to break, General Johnston knew his adversary
would soon move against him, and thinking it not prudent to stand
his ground at Centreville or Manassas, against so powerful an army,
with only about 40,000 men, just as McClellan was preparing to
advance, the Confederate army, on the 9th of March, 1862, broke
camp, having first made dummy cannons of wood, painted black,
mounting them in the forts and redoubts around Centreville, also
dummy soldiers, in order to deceive and delay the enemy. The army
retired leisurely at first, stopping several days at a time in camp.
The terms of enlistment of most of the Confederate troops were
about to expire, and the men were called upon to reenlist for the
war, which nearly all did. On this march, while in camp a few days,
Company C elected officers to take the place of those who had been
at first elected and whose terms would expire about the 1st of May.
Captain Clement was reëlected captain, I was elected first
lieutenant, James Connelly was reëlected second lieutenant, and
Jabez R. Rosser was elected third lieutenant. J. A. Hobson and H. H.
Withers, first and second lieutenants, not being reëlected, left the
company at the end of their terms. About this time the company
received a number of recruits, the militiamen up to thirty-five years
old having been called out and given the privilege of joining the
companies of their choice. The recruits were mostly married men,
from twenty-five to thirty-five years old.
McClellan did not essay to follow Johnston, but determined to
change his base and plan of campaign from Northern Virginia to the
Peninsula. His army was accordingly embarked on transports, sailing
down the Potomac and Chesapeake Bay, landing at the lower end of
the Peninsula at Fortress Monroe.
As soon as General Johnston was aware of this move, he put his
army in motion and marched rapidly to Richmond. The march was
through Prince William, Spottsylvania, Hanover, and Henrico
counties, into Richmond, where we arrived on the 12th of April,
1862. This march was very laborious, through rain and mud, the
troops often marching through fields to avoid the muddy roads, and
to give place to the trains of artillery and baggage and commissary
wagons. At that time each regiment had thirteen wagons, but never
again after the Peninsula campaign; after that year about three was
the limit.
This was the first real hard marching we had done. Some of the men
gave out on the route, and had to be hauled in wagons and
ambulances; many had their knapsacks hauled. Only one man of
Company C besides myself carried their knapsacks, blankets and
guns through without any help.
 THE PENINSULA CAMPAIGN
On arriving at Richmond on the 12th of April the troops were
embarked on boats, steamed down the James to King's Landing,
seven miles from Williamsburg, marching through that quaint and
dilapidated old town, on down the Peninsula to the lines near
Yorktown, where General Magruder was in command with fifteen or
twenty thousand men, confronting McClellan and his "grand army"
on the lines stretching across the Peninsula from the York to the
James. McClellan had 125,000 men; Johnston about 50,000, all told.
The lines, at the point the Eleventh Regiment faced the Yankees,
were about one thousand yards apart; at other places the lines were
much closer, and there were frequent skirmishes and sharp-
shooting. Forts at intervals along the lines were mounted with big
guns, and shots were often exchanged.
One day I was standing behind one of the Confederate guns, when a
shot from a thirty-two-pounder was fired at a Yankee fort one
thousand yards off, across an open level field, and saw the ball, a
black mass, as it sped across the field, go right into the fort and
explode. Of course, we could not see from that distance what
damage was done, but heard afterwards from prisoners that this
shell played havoc in the Yankee fort, killing and wounding men right
and left, and tearing up things generally. This was a splendid shot,
aimed and the fuse timed exactly right; it went to the very spot
desired, exploding at the very second to do the most damage. The
Yankees did not return the fire.
The service on the Peninsula was arduous and disagreeable; in the
muddy trenches, or back in the woods, lying on the rain-soaked
ground, or marching along the cut-up and muddy roads, was trying
indeed, and caused no little sickness among the troops. Harvey
Bailey, of Company C, died of disease while here. One night while
the regiment lay back in the woods, the men sleeping on their arms,
that is, every man lying with his gun by his side, instead of being
stacked, there was a night alarm, with sharp musketry firing along
the trenches; all were aroused and under arms in a moment. It was
a cloudy, pitch-dark night, and we did not know what the trouble
was. Just as the firing ceased the hooting of a big owl was heard in
the distance. "There now," was whispered along the lines, "we are
cut off; that is a Yankee signal." Nothing came of it, however, except
a good scare. When soldiers are thus suddenly aroused at night by a
call to arms, it causes a chilling sensation, and they shake like one
with the "buck ague."
General Johnston was often seen riding along the lines, sitting his
horse very erect, and presenting a soldierly appearance. He always
reminded me of a gamecock trimmed and gaffed ready for the main.
While here our first year of enlistment expired, and I entered upon
the duties of first lieutenant; I had been orderly sergeant up to this
time, carrying a musket.
 YORKTOWN LINES EVACUATED
General Johnston, getting information that McClellan was preparing
to send a force by transports up York River to West Point, and which
he, Johnston, had no means of preventing, and thus get in his rear
and between him and Richmond, it was determined to evacuate the
Yorktown line of defense. Accordingly, about the 3d or 4th of May,
1862, the trenches were evacuated and the whole army began
falling back up the Peninsula, the wagons and artillery in front. The
Yankees made a landing at West Point, but were driven back to their
transports by a force sent to meet them. As we marched up the
Peninsula we could hear the booming of the big guns in this fight.
The roads were in wretched condition, muddy and badly cut up by
the long trains of wagons and artillery, making the march very trying
and disagreeable, for it rained nearly every day about this time. No
one who has not marched on foot behind army wagon and artillery
trains has any conception of what muddy roads are. Horses and
mules were sometimes literally buried in the mud and left to perish,
or shot dead on the spot.
It is surprising how much fatigue and hardship men can stand when
put to it. Soldiers were often put to the supreme test of endurance,
and, no doubt, many an old Confederate soldier often says to
himself, "How did we stand those long, tiresome marches, through
the rain and mud of spring, through the dust and heat of summer,
and midst snow and ice of winter, often poorly shod, scantily
clothed, and on short, very short rations, sometimes none at all." A
man can stand more than a horse. But the Confederate soldiers did
stand these things, enduring more, perhaps, than any soldiers ever
endured before. It took men to do these things—men with muscles,
sinews, and nerves in their bodies, and courage in their hearts; and
then, on the battlefield, to meet the foe two, three, and four to one,
and vanquish that foe, took men of the highest valor. Of such was
the Confederate soldier. The service of our Revolutionary fathers was
not comparable to the arduous trials and privations of the
Confederate soldiers. The privations and suffering of the army at
Valley Forge during the winter of 1777-78 was as nothing to the
experiences of the Confederates around Petersburg during the
winter of 1864-5.
On February 8, 1865, General Lee wrote to the Secretary of War to
this effect: "For three days and nights the right wing of the army has
been in line of battle; some of the men have had no meat for three
days, and all suffering from reduced rations and scant clothing,
exposed to the fire of the enemy, cold, hail and sleet." About the
same time General Lee issued a circular letter to the farmers in the
surrounding country, beseeching them to "loan the army all the
cornmeal and sorghum they could spare." But I am anticipating, so
back to the Peninsula.
 BATTLE OF WILLIAMSBURG
I should have stated before, that about the time the army fell back
from Centreville and Manassas, General Longstreet was promoted to
major-general, and Col. A. P. Hill of the Thirteenth Virginia Regiment
was promoted to brigadier-general, and assigned to Longstreet's old
brigade, which now formed a part of Longstreet's Division.
On the afternoon of the 4th of May, the brigade marched through
the town of Williamsburg; slept on their arms in an open field just
west of the town. Early next morning it was evident to all that a fight
was on hand—staff officers and couriers were riding hither and
thither in great haste. McClellan was pressing on General Johnston's
rear a little too closely to suit him, and Johnston determined to give
him a taste of what was in store for him later on.
Hill's Brigade, as well as other troops, infantry and artillery, were
marched back through the town. Just at the eastern limits of the
town the brigade turned off the road to the right, through the fields,
and was massed in a deep hollow. Other troops were known to be in
the woods a few hundred yards in front, and we were in position as
their support.
Other troops had passed on down the Yorktown road towards Fort
McGruder, and the other forts east of Williamsburg, some of which
the Confederates had abandoned. I remember Latham's Battery
dashing by, as we marched through the streets, at a gallop.
Latham's Battery was from Lynchburg, and the men well known to
many of the Eleventh Regiment. Some one in the Eleventh called out
to them as they passed, asking if they were going into the fight.
"Yes," shouted back Jim Ley, one of the battery; "Latham's Battery is
always in the fight." Artillery firing could already be heard at the
front. As the men passed along the streets, they unslung their
knapsacks, depositing them in the front yards of the houses on the
street—stripping for the fight. There were no forts or breastworks in
our front, nor was there any artillery with the brigade or with the
troops in front. The position was the extreme right of the
Confederate lines.
 THE BATTLE BEGINS
We did not have to wait long. Sharp musketry firing soon
commenced in the woods—lasting only a short time, however. About
the time the firing ceased, the brigade was ordered forward, not in
line of battle, but marching by the flank. As we entered the woods
Gen. Roger A. Pryor and a few men came out and moved off to the
left, along the edge of the field. Soon after getting into the woods
the brigade was formed in line of battle by the maneuver, "By the
right flank into line." The woods were thick with much undergrowth,
and we could see only a few yards in front.
For some time after the line was formed, everything was quiet. It
was a cloudy, misty morning, and the air was filled with the smoke
of the recent firing; no enemy was in sight nor could we see any of
the Confederates who had been engaged. It has always been a
mystery to me what became of these troops. We could see and
smell the smoke from their guns, but not a man was seen, except
perhaps fifteen or twenty who came out as we entered.
Company C was on the left of the Eleventh Regiment, and the
Seventh Regiment, commanded by Col. James L. Kemper, was the
next regiment on the left. Colonel Kemper took position at the right
of his regiment. My place, as first lieutenant of Company C, being
near the left of the company, placed me close to Colonel Kemper,
and it is of the fighting along the line of these two regiments I
propose to tell, as I saw and heard it that day.
 "GIVE IT TO THEM!"
While standing here in line of battle some of Company C saw a line
of men through a slight opening in the woods about one hundred
yards away, obliquely to the left. Only a few files of the men were
visible through the vista; some one called my attention to these
men. I looked; they seemed to have on blue uniforms, and the brass
buttons on their coats could be plainly seen; they were standing at
rest. I called Colonel Kemper, who came and said he believed they
were Yankees, but was not certain. Just then General Hill, on foot,
came along down in the rear of the line of battle from the right, and
Colonel Kemper called his attention to these men. General Hill
leveled his field-glasses on the line, and in a moment said: "Yes,
they are Yankees; give it to them!" Colonel Kemper's clear-ringing
voice broke the stillness with, "Now, boys, I want you to give it to
those blue-coated fellows; ready, aim, fire." At the first command
every musket was raised to the shoulder and leveled, every eye ran
along the barrel at the command "aim," and at the word "fire" a
sheet of flame burst forth from the line with a deafening roar.
Very few of our men could see the enemy, but every man shot
straight to the front—the guns on a level. No doubt, the first volley
did much execution, the men reloading as quickly as possible and
continuing to fire rapidly. In the midst of the firing Colonel Kemper's
clarion voice rang out above the roar of the muskets. He said:
"General Hill says the line must be advanced." Not a man moved
forward, but all continued loading and shooting as fast possible.
Again Colonel Kemper shouted louder than before: "General Hill says
the lines must be advanced." At this moment General Hill came to
the front, immediately in front of Company C, pistol in hand. General
Hill wore a dark blue blouse or overshirt, gathered at the waist by
the sword belt, had on a military cap with a sprig of pine fastened in
front, and as he went forward, waving his pistol over his head,
looking back over his shoulder and calling on the men to follow,
made a splendid picture of the heroic and gallant soldier that he
was. This picture was photographed on my memory never to be
forgotten.
 INTO A HOT FIRE
The whole line rushed forward over a fence and down a slight slope
in the ground, about fifty yards, and was met by a close and deadly
fire from the enemy, whom we could not see, but the sharp, quick
"sip, sip" of the minie balls, as they whacked the trees and cut the
bushes and twigs, told plainly that we were in very close quarters.
On the hill where the firing commenced, I don't remember that we
suffered any casualties—I think the Yankees shot too low; but now
the men were falling on every hand. The firing was kept up here for
some little time, the men sitting or kneeling on the ground, loading
and shooting into the bushes in front whence the balls were coming,
though no enemy was in sight. While here I looked to the left,
oblique from our front, and saw a Yankee standing beside a tree
some seventy-five yards away, about where the line had been first
seen. Up to this time I had carried a pistol, a Colt's five-shooter, and
drawing this I aimed at this Yankee, snapped the pistol several
times, which, failing to fire, I threw it down, picked up a loaded
musket that had fallen from the hands of some man, killed or
wounded, and fired at the Yankee; where he was hit, I never knew.
About this time the cry came along our lines from the right, "They
are running." The line again pushed forward, but we did not catch
sight of the Yankees, that is, live ones, but a short distance, some
twenty yards in front, their line of battle was plainly marked by the
dead men lying strewn along through the woods. The lines
continued to press forward through the woods for a quarter of a mile
or more, until the eastern edge of the woods was reached, where
the timber had been felled.
While pushing along through the woods I saw to my left several of
Company C around a gray-haired Yankee officer with side-whiskers
and mustache, seemingly rifling his pockets. I shouted at the men,
"Stop robbing that officer." They replied, "We are just loosening his
belt." The officer said the same when I approached him. He had
been desperately wounded and left by his men.
In the felled timber, some thirty yards from the woods, the Yankees
had taken refuge, lying down behind the logs and stumps, and as
the Confederates came up, opened a close and rapid fire, our men
protecting themselves behind trees and logs at the edge of the
woods and returning the fire. Here the firing was fast and furious,
both sides being under cover. The casualties here were not serious,
on the Confederate side, at least, the Yankees shooting too high,
riddling the trees and bushes overhead.
 COLONEL GARLAND WOUNDED
In the midst of this severe fighting, Colonel Garland, with his left
arm bandaged and in a sling, came up. He had been shot through
the forearm early in the action, had his wound dressed, and
continued in the fight to the end.
As soon as Colonel Garland came up, he shouted out, "Charge 'em!"
Captain Clement, a brave man, whose courage was beyond question
and who still lives in Campbell County, a scarred veteran,
remonstrated, saying: "For God's sake, Colonel Garland, don't send
the men over there into that fire. They will all be killed." Colonel
Garland replied: "Well, hold on a while then." It was not long before
the fire of the enemy began to slacken—the well-aimed shots of the
Confederates were telling. Our lines rose up without orders, and
over the logs the men rushed right among the Yankees. Some of the
enemy jumped up and ran; many were shot down as they ran;
others lay still behind the logs and stumps and were captured; some
were hauled from brush piles, and many lay killed and wounded on
the ground, most of whom were shot in the head. This scene
reminded me of a lot of boys hunting rabbits in thickets.
While engaged in gathering up the prisoners, sending them to the
rear and exulting over the victory, the noise of artillery wheels was
heard (it was impossible to see far, on account of the smoke and
fog), and the men were ordered back to the woods whence they had
just charged. There were several abandoned Yankee cannon in the
road in our front; I don't remember whether these were taken off
the field or not, but think they were. We held this position during the
remainder of the day, without seeing or hearing anything of the
enemy in our front.
Pretty soon after we fell back to the edge of the woods, a terrific
musketry fire opened up to the right of this position, which seemed
to be a little to the rear of the extension of the line, the minie balls
flying thick and fast through the woods in the rear. As this firing
increased in volume and seemed to be drawing nearer, some of the
Seventh Regiment began to look anxiously to the rear, like a balky
horse, as if contemplating a retreat. All eyes were turned in the
direction of the firing, which was only a few hundred yards to the
right, and seemed to be drawing closer. Colonel Kemper, who was
still at the right of the Seventh, noticed the anxiety of his men, and
spoke out in firm and defiant tones: "Steady, men, steady. The old
Eighth Virginia is out there." I never knew whether or not the Eighth
Regiment was out there—I don't think it was; but Kemper's words
had the desired effect.
The men remembered Ball's Bluff, where the Eighth Virginia had
some time before distinguished itself, and whatever fears they may
have had of being flanked were allayed, and every man stood firmly
at his post.
It was not long until the firing ceased all along the lines. The brigade
remained here until darkness closed over the bloody scenes and
thrilling events of the day, which were, no doubt, indelibly fixed in
the minds of every participant.
In the meanwhile, the battle was raging to the left over towards Fort
McGruder, where the fighting first commenced in the morning, and
was kept up pretty much all day. Here the Twenty-fourth Virginia and
the Fifth North Carolina distinguished themselves, as Pickett's
Division did at Gettysburg, in an unsuccessful, but gallant charge.
There were no better fighting regiments in the army.
Soon after dark the brigade moved silently off by the left flank,
marching back to the edge of Williamsburg, where we had turned off
the road early in the morning. We slept on the wet, muddy ground
until daybreak next morning, when we again marched through the
old town towards Richmond, the men gathering up their knapsacks
deposited along the street in the front yards the day before, and
which the people had taken care of.
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