AIRLINES In-flight dining
What’s
cooking?
In the battle of the skies, airlines are using their in-flight
food to stand out from the competition. Rose Dykins
reports on what’s being served up
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AIRLINES In-flight dining
O
nly a few years ago, the food served on many
airlines was a private affair. Now, with onboard
wifi becoming more widely available, people are
instantly able to share what they’re eating in the air via
Twitter with #nofilter. It means airlines are increasingly
being held to account for insipid curries or rubbery
omelettes, and there is unprecedented pressure to
deliver high-quality food.
Certain carriers are embracing the challenges and
opportunities that social media presents, and are even
allowing it to influence what is served in their cabins.
In 2013, ANA began its annual “general election” for
economy class in-flight meals. This allows passengers to
vote via Facebook, Twitter and Chinese microblogging
site Sina Weibo to choose which meals will be served on
international flights from Japan the following year. More
than 12,000 people voted last year, with the chicken leg
and minced meat in yakitori soy sauce and the cheese
hamburger steak securing a place on the 2015 menu.
The rising cost of air travel, society’s fixation with
healthy living and the trend for switching to organic or
carefully sourced ingredients in our homes mean that
we are expecting more from our plane food.
‘People now expect to see
things on a plane that they
would see in restaurants’
“The race is on to keep pace with demand within the
limitations that we have of preparing food at 30,000
feet,” says Joost Heymeijer, senior vice-president of in-
flight catering for Emirates.“People now expect to see
things on a plane that they would see in restaurants. On
top of that, it needs to be healthy, trendy, look good, and
served by people who know what they’re talking about.”
CREATIVE COOKING
An airline’s onboard offering is also a key portal for
communicating value to its customers, which is why
carriers keep conjuring up inventive ways to entice us
with what’s in their kitchen.
Last November, Qantas introduced a new dining
concept for its economy class cabin, offering meals that
were 50 per cent larger than before, and double the
number of choices, including a healthy option – typically
grilled fish or a salad.
How did it offset the cost of doing this? Kylie Morris,
the airline’s head of international creative development
and customer experience, says: “Our catering
team has worked hard to streamline our processes
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Left from top: ANA’s tonkotsu ramen; Cathay Pacific chocolate and goat’s
cheese swirl, and foie gras, mushrooms and pickled blackberries; Qantas’s
casarecce pasta, barramundi curry, beef fillet; SAA’s pannacotta Right from
top: Air France grilled cod and slow-roasted veal; BA’s pulled pork; Qantas
lamb koftas, SAA smoked salmon; Qatar Airways feta baklava; SAA cheese
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AIRLINES In-flight dining
behind-the-scenes, allowing us to invest 40 per cent
more time and money into the meals and service we
provide customers.”
These changes include eliminating butter sachets in
favour of “garlic butter-infused rolls”, and introducing
new plates that won’t require serving trays, allowing
crew to serve and clear dishes up to 30 minutes faster.
Airlines are also getting more creative when it comes
to showcasing their dishes. In November, BA launched
its Sound Bite soundtrack. Available on its in-flight
entertainment system, the 13-track playlist offers the
best songs to listen to while eating certain dishes, based
on findings about how music influences our tastebuds.
Apparently Debussy’s Clair de Lune is the perfect
accompaniment to a roast dinner, while Madonna’s Ray
of Light boosts the sweetness of dessert.
Partnerships with
restaurants and hotels are
becoming more widespread
Following the trend for attempting to offer restaurant-
standard cuisine, BA now provides pulled-pork
sandwiches in First. The meat is slow-cooked for 14
hours, then hand-pulled and seasoned with sage and
onions before being served with apple, ginger and
sultana chutney, and a side of beetroot and purple crisps.
Meanwhile, ANA, which has a partnership with
Japanese restaurant chain Hakata Ippudo, has
introduced a new healthy miso-based daichi ramen
noodle dish for first and business class passengers on
its Jakarta route and North American services. The dish
is meat-free, and features signature noodles created
specifically for the airline.
Another example is Singapore Airlines’ lobster
thermidor, which has become an institution. The lobster
tail sautéed in butter, flambéed in brandy, sprinkled
with cheese and served with creamy mushroom sauce,
garlic, spicy mustard and buttered asparagus is served in
business and first class.
JOINING FORCES
Partnerships with restaurants and hotel brands are also
becoming more widespread. Last year, ANA began
a collaboration with the Kowloon Shangri-La, Hong
Kong, to offer special Cantonese meals for its business
class passengers departing from the city – such as
pineapple barbecued pork buns and kung pao prawn
and asparagus with fried rice and conpoy (dried scallop).
This year, Cathay Pacific has partnered with Mandarin
Oriental’s leading chefs to create a series of menus on
rotation between different routes. This month, the airline
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Left: Lorraine Pascale’s Thai beef salad, Virgin Atlantic
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AIRLINES In-flight dining
will feature dishes by Uwe Opocensky, the Michelin-
starred executive chef at Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong,
in first class on flights from Hong Kong to London, New
York and Boston.
Celebrity chefs are also getting in on the action.
Virgin Atlantic has teamed up with Lorraine Pascale to
create dishes for Upper Class passengers – including
Thai beef salad with roasted pine nuts and chilli
dressing, and warm salmon and lentils with chorizo,
asparagus and balsamic dressing.
‘Thousands of the items that
go on board are often there
just in case of demand’
Qatar Airways, meanwhile, selected four international
“master chefs” to develop a special menu for its B787
Dreamliner’s premium classes. Nobu Matsuhisa, Tom
Aikens, Ramzi Choueiri and Vineet Bhatia adapted their
distinct culinary styles to conjure up dishes such as
an Iranian mixed grill with lamb chops and kofta, and
chicken tikka with broad bean saffron rice.
Air France has an ongoing collaboration with Joel
Robuchon, who has the most Michelin stars in the
world. The airline’s first class menu features dishes such
as stuffed chicken breast served with slow-cooked green
cabbage lardons and foie gras. Since February, a dish by
three-Michelin starred chef Anne-Sophie Pic has been
available on Air France’s business class menu on flights
leaving Paris. Pic introduces a new meal twice a month,
and past dishes have included roasted veal and royal
quinoa with red peppers and pineapple. The carrier has
also reintroduced caviar for its top customers.
NUMBERS GAME
On the whole, carriers are finding ways to present
passengers with more choice. This is no mean feat when
you consider the logistical challenges they face to feed us.
“With in-flight catering, logistics accounts for
about 70 per cent of our costs, manpower and effort,”
Heymeijer says.“Thousands upon thousands of the
items that go on board are often there just in case
of demand because, as an airline, we hate to be in a
position where we have to say ‘no’. From originally
having a choice of two or three special meals, we now
have more than 20.”
One option, then, is to at least make sure passengers
can eat their first choice from the menu. Singapore
Airlines (SIA) was the first to introduce a pre-order
meal service in 1998.“Book the Cook” allows premium
passengers to secure their preferred main course for
their flight up to 24 hours before they travel. When the
Left: Anne-Sophie Pic’s salmon and sweet spiced lentils, Air France
28 NOVEMBER
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AIRLINES In-flight dining
carrier debuts its premium economy class in August, it
will introduce a special version of Book the Cook.
“We are considering dishes such as seafood thermidor,
beef fillet and maybe a full English breakfast,” says
Subhas Menon, SIA’s regional vice-president in Europe.
Free champagne will be served throughout the flight.
At the same time, BA is planning to extend its pre-
order meal service – guaranteeing First, Club World and
World Traveller Plus passengers their first choice of main
– across its entire long-haul network out of Heathrow by
the end of the year. Gatwick will follow soon after.
Similarly, the Qantas Select on Q-Eat service enables
premium economy and business passengers from
Heathrow to select their preferred meal up to 12 hours
before departure. The service is being progressively
rolled out across its network to economy passengers.
As a society, we are becoming more aware of the
processes behind our food and seeking ethically sourced
ingredients where possible. This presents a challenge for
airlines with larger networks such as Emirates, which
prepares 165,000 in-flight meals every day, and doesn’t
have an advantageous location for “growing its own”.
As a society, we are
becoming more aware of the
processes behind our food
“Dubai has the challenge of where we’re at
geographically – we’re not in the heart of Europe
where everything grows within a couple of hundred
kilometres,” Heymeijer says.“We source what we
can locally, but a large percentage is imported. When
we have discussions on sustainable or free-range
ingredients, it’s not that we’re against it, but for the
volumes we procure, nine times out of ten, those items
are not available.”
KLM now serves Beter Leven-approved chicken
(from ex-laying hens) on all flights out of Amsterdam.
It also dishes up “cage-free” omelettes on flights out of
the US (see klmtakescare.com). South African Airways,
meanwhile, has teamed up with DO and CO Event and
Airline Catering to create meals made from “the freshest,
locally sourced ingredients”, including cod approved by
the Marine Stewardship Council in business class.
Airlines have a tough job on their hands to serve up
ethically-sourced, calorie-controlled, attractive dishes that
surprise and delight us, that can be prepared in a galley
kitchen and with ingredients that come in a quantity
large enough to feed tens of millions of passengers each
year. Nonetheless, they know how much food means
to us, and it looks as though the days of grey, stodgy,
vacuum-packed plane food are on the way out. n
Left: Japanese cuisine, ANA
30 NOVEMBER
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