Ropes 101

Rope Classification & Diameter

There are 4 classifications of ropes to consider when buying a rope, each with unique attributes:

Single Ropes

Single ropes are the simplest and lightest way to climb. By far the most common rope type, most customers
looking to be outfitted will prefer this system.

 Ideal for Sport, Trad and Big Wall; also can be used for Ice and Mountaineering.

A Single ropes primary function is easily defined by its diameter, which is reflected in each items title.
Ropes range from 11mm-8.9mm depending on there use.

Use by diameter:

 10.2+ mm - Big Wall – These ropes can take the abuse of pitch after pitch aid climbing and
“jugging” up the rope with ascenders. When using a Single, multi-pitch climbers will also pack
along an equal length of 7-8mm static cord (also called a “tag line”) so that they tie the two
together and get longer rappels.
 10.4mm- 9.8mm - Trad or Top Roping – These beefier ropes are more durable serve well for
both Trad or Top Ropers.
 10.2mm-8.9mm - Sport Climbing – Skinnier ropes provide less rope drag, combined with being
generally lighter, a lead climber will exert less energy using a skinner rope. But the skinner ropes,
generally, sacrifices durability and will have less friction available when belaying/ repealing. Most
Sport Climbers will use a 9.8+ for everyday use, and save there 9.8- for red point burns and hard
on sight attempts.

Half (“Double”)
Half ropes have the advantage of an extra rope for protection against one of the ropes failing, as well as the
ability to use the full rope length for repelling. Great for those routes that tend to wander, allowing one rope
to be clipped on one side and the other rope on the other side preventing rope drag. These ropes usually run
about 8.8mm and can be clipped independently of each.

 Ideal for Ice and some Trad routes.

Twin

Maintaining the advantages of an extra line. These ropes are extremely thin, usually about 7.6mm each.
Due to their size, both twin ropes must always be clipped through each piece of protection and can’t be run
independently.

 Primarily used in ultra-long Trad, Ice or Mixed routes and expeditions that require very light-
weight gear.

Static
!! Not for lead climbing !!

Static ropes have a very high impact force rating with small amount of elongation or rope stretch. This
offers generally high abrasion resistance and the ability to handle larger loads. Again, static ropes should
never be lead on.

 Ideal for Canyoneering, Caving, Hauling, Repealing, Fixed Lines…

General guidelines:
Sizing
What length should I get?

The old standard of 50m is being replaced by 60m and 70m ropes. A longer rope allows for longer pitches/
repells, where shorter ropes can weigh less and take up less space in your pack. With this new longer
standard, newer routes have followed suite and may require longer (70m) rope.

As a general rule:

 60 meters is the new standard.

 70 meter ropes are good for select routes and are popular in Sport climbing.
 Some Trad or Big wall climbers may still prefer a 50 meter due to the bulk of a longer line.

Comparing Specs
Standard Features:
* Thickness: 00.0mm
* Type: Single Rope, Half Rope (Double Rope), Twin Rope, Static
* Length: 50m, 60m, 70m
* Dry: Yes/No (list the type of dry coating)
* Impact Force: 00kN
* Elongation: [Static] 0%; [Dynamic] 0%
* Center Mark: Yes, no, bi-pattern
* Falls: # held
* Weight: 00g/m

Thickness

Thickness is the ropes diameter in millimeters. See Rope Classification & Diameter above.

Type
See Rope Classification & Diameter above.

Length

The ropes length in meters. See Sizing above.

Dry

A Dry Rope has a waterproofing treatment, preventing absorption of water.

When a rope is wet it becomes heavier and is less able to absorb falls. In addition, when dealing with the
cold, the absorbed water can freeze and make a rope weak and unmanageable. Therefore, it is important to
choose a rope that is dry-treated whenever climbing in wet conditions (Mountaineering, Ice Climbing…).

 As a perk, a dry treatment also acts as lubricate which will decrease rope drag in all conditions and
will decrease wear.
 Non-Dry Ropes are less expensive and have no water proofing treatment.

Impact Force

This refers to the amount of force that is transmitted to the climber during a fall. The more shock your rope
can absorb, the less strain put on you and your protection.

 LOWER = GOOD.

Elongation

This is the percentage in which the rope stretches under a standard force. Ropes are rated under 2
conditions, a static load, as well as a dynamic fall.

More stretch usually means greater energy absorption and a lower impact force, but it also means you will
fall further, increasing your chance of hitting the ground or a ledge.

 It becomes a bit of a balancing act, but given a low impact force rating, a LOWER Elongation
percentage = GOOD.

Depending on these ratings a rope can be labeled Static or Dynamic:

- Static – Very High Impact force/ Low Elongation and not for leading. These are featured in out Static or
Canyoneering category groups.

- Dynamic – More stretch and can be lead on. Dynamic ropes include all ropes in the Single, Half and Twin
categories.

Center Mark

Most Single ropes feature some sort of mark that designates the mid-point of the rope. This enables the
climber to easily set up a repel at the ropes longest length (from its mid-point). Some more expensive
options will use a duel weave (bi-pattern) where the sheaths pattern changes at the mid-point, were others
will use a mis-colored marking.
Falls

Fall Rating simulates a fall with forces greater than most natural occurrences, repetitively until a rope fails.
Fall ratings are governed by the UIAA (International Union of Alpine Associations) who issues standards
that ropes must meet to become “CE” certified. To gain a “CE” certification a rope must reach a Fall
Rating of 5 (Single & Half) or 12 (Twin).

 HIGHER = GOOD.

Weight

Measured in grams per meter. Keeping in mind, a skinner diameter doesn’t necessarily mean lighter. A
tighter, denser weave will increase weight. Multiply a ropes length by this figure to get its true weight.

 LIGHTER = GOOD.

Assuming moderate use, most climbing gear does tend to last forever where climbing ropes, on the other
hand, wear out quickly with use and is something climbers have to replace often. In a fall, the majority of
the impact force generated is absorbed in the rope due to its dynamic qualities. As a rope wears, its ability
to absorb these forces decreases, increasing impact felt on the climbers body.

When is it time to retire a rope?

A ropes lifespan will depend on its use and abuse, but here are some basic retirement guidelines:

 Occasional use(couple of pitches every few months) – replace after 4 years.

 Weekend Climbing – Replace after 2 years.
 Daily use – replace every 3 months
 !! Hard Falls !! – Retire a rope immediately if it suffers a fall that approaches factor 2 (a fall that is
twice the distance as the amount of rope run out from the belay).
 !! Physical Damage !!- Replace it if it has flat or soft spots, becomes stiff or shows sheath damage.

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