Apparel Production & Quality Control
Apparel Production & Quality Control
AND
QUALITY CONTROL
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INDEX
Apparel Production
Unit 2 Inspection
Inspection- Quality
Control
Inspection-In process
inspection
Inspection- Final
Inspection
Textile Testing-I
Textile Testing-II
Textile Testing-III
Shade sorting
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Meaning
How to achieve it
Various theories
Quality culture
Practical Demonstration
of Garment Testing
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Apparel Production
The apparel production business has long been out of the hand – needle or foot
– power stage. It has been an “engineered” industry in present time. The
properties and characteristics of the following three physical elements which are
present in every apparel production process:
The raw materials being processed – Materials
The processing equipment – Machines
The man executing the process – Men.
Awareness in the fourth area must also be added to the three areas: The
geometric principles of apparel design many types of material are sewed into the
variety of products of the apparel manufacturing and allied manufacturing
industries. A knowledge of the working properties and characteristics of these
materials is therefore of prime importance for the formulation of efficient
qualitative and quantitative production. It is therefore necessary first to be able
to identify the physical properties of fabrics and to understand the nature of the
characteristics of these fabric physical properties.
Apparel production
Fig: Apparel production
Present time apparel industry was known as “Needle – Trade” industries
originally, this encompassed in any industry producing products:
Which were made from fabric (or)
Which are produced largely with sewing machines
Basic types of Apparel production processes.
The following three major types of production phases of apparel (allied)
manufacturing.
Cutting
Sewing
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Pressing.
1. Cutting: Serving the raw material into shapes for assembly and or finishing
sewing and or pressing operation.
2. Sewing: Assembling and or finishing the cut or pre-made pieces with stitches
for cutting, pressing, packing or shipping operations.
3. Pressing: Shaping cut or sewn material with pressure, with or without heat and
or moisture, for further processing or marketing.
There are three other types of production used for assembling, decorating or
finishing purposes; they are riveting, cementing, and fusing. Riveting is used for
closures, decorative and reinforcement functions; riveting operations are
executed with punch presses. Cementing consists of joining two (or more)
sections with the use of cement, glue, paste, or any other adhesion medium.
The exact combination of production steps is determined by the following items.
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1. Product style
2. Raw materials used
3. Available production equipment
4. Available production space
5. Available labour supply.
The following are only a few of the general production sequence used:
1. Cut – sew – press – pack, store, or ship
2. Cut – sew – press – sew – pack, store, or ship
S-C-P-S-C-S- pack, Store, then ship
S-C-S-P-C-C-P- pack, or store, then ship.
P-C-S-P-S-P-, etc.
The term cut, sew, presses C or the symbols C.S.P mean that one or more such
operation take place on the production phase. The construction characteristics
and the physical properties of the materials control the manner in which these
materials react during, and to, the individual production operations. This situation
also varies with the type and degree of mechanical action and human effort
(mental and physical) necessary to perform the production operation.
Now-a-days sophisticated sewing and allied machineries are being made to fulfill
the requirement of globally oriented apparel manufacturing industries; therefore
more productivity expectation to meet the timely requirement of the global
oriented buyers will become the latest trend.
India, Bangladesh, China, Indonesia, Vietnam producing more volume of apparel
for indigenous / domestic and Export purpose. Mostly, USA, UK countries
expecting apparel product from the above mentioned countries.
The development of Apparel production sectors will be yielding better job
positions to men and women. Countries economic condition will also be
flourished. Foreign exchange gained considerably and the under developed
countries wealth rate also be increased tremendously.
In apparel manufacturing industry, sewing machines are being used for joining
the fabric parts which is supplied from the cutting section. Various types of
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stitching are done in sewing production plant by the unique help of sewing needle
and also different accessories are sewing by this machine.
The most and important sewing machines are used in Apparel manufacturing industry
are mentioned as follows.
Lock stitch / Plain / Regular sewing machine: This machine is basically
used to stitch / sew all types of garments.
Twin needle lock stitch machine: Normally used for decorative stitching /
seaming purpose. Suitable for woven fabric.
Double chain stitch machine: Used stitch as well as woven and knitted
garments.
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Over lock machine (3- Thread): Used for knit and woven fabric sewing.
Normally used in side seam, armhole, sleeve portion to prevent raw edges
of fabric.
Safety Stitch over lock machine (5 – Thread): This m/c is used for knit
and woven fabric for sewing a plain seam with over lock application on side
seam, arm hole portion.
Flat lock machine: Used for covering chain stitch. Mostly used for
producing knit wear.
FOA m/c with cylinder Bed: Specially used for the sleeve portion, trousers
in seam joining and front risebackrise attaching purpose for pyjamas
/Bermuda’s / Boxer shorts.
Button -hole machine: Used for sewn the button hole in the garment.
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Button sewing machine: Used to sew the button is the garment.
Bar lock machine: Used in trousers Belt loop joining, pocket corner and
zipper fly portion.
Blind stitch Machine: Is used for bottom ham of the pant, skirt, shorts, and
pyjamas.
Kansai Special Machine: This machine is used for front placket and waist
band or ----- sewing purpose. Also this m/c has a ---- needle with 0.5 to 2.5
inch distance and very much used for special attaching purpose with
required seam distance.
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Pocket sewer Machine: Specially used for sew pockets of the coats and
overcoat with heavy weight fabric.
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PRODUCT AND DESIGN
1. Function
The product must be designed in such a way that it optimally performs the
main task or function for which it is purchased by a buyer. In other words,
the product must satisfy the needs and wants of the consumer.
For e.g. The main function of an Air Conditioner (AC) is to provide quick
cooling of a room. So, AC must be designed in such a way that it can cool a
room as fast as technologically possible. If it doesn't meet basic
expectations, the consumers won't buy it.
2. Repairability
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The product must be designed in such a way that it can be easily repaired
whenever necessary during a malfunction. The product repairs must be
done quickly that too at a low repair cost. Consumers usually don't buy
those costly products, which are either very expensive to repair / maintain
or those who take a longer time and more money for repairing.
3. Reliability
Reliability means dependability on a product. Consumers prefer to purchase
and use often those products which perform their main function or task
optimally for a longer period without any annoying malfunctions,
breakdowns or failures. In short, a product must perform quite well and give
trouble-free service for a decent amount of time. It must not need constant
repairs and/or frequent maintenances. It is so, since repairs often turn costly
and are very time consuming. Reliability is crucial for consumer durables and
office equipments. A reliable product gains consumers' trust, loyalty and this
creates its goodwill in the competitive market. Therefore, reliability is an
important factor to be kept in mind while designing a product.
4. Aesthetics
Aesthetics must be kept in mind while designing a product. It refers to, how
the product looks, feels, sounds, tastes or smells. That is, the product must
look, feel, sound, taste or smell very good. It must be attractive, compact
and convenient to use. Its packaging must also be made graphically
appealing and colorful. If this aspect is not considered, product will fail in
the market. This factor is very important, especially in case a product is
designed for and targeted to the young generation that is emerging with a
modern mindset and current trends.
5. Durability
Durability refers to the life of a product. A durable product performs
flawlessly for a longer period. It is a sign of a good-quality product.
Consumers want their products to have a longer life. They do not want to
replace their products repeatedly. This factor is very crucial for durable and
costly products like televisions, refrigerators, cars, so on. Therefore,
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durability is another important requirement that must be kept in mind while
designing a product.
6. Producibility
The product must be designed in such a way that it can be produced in large
quantities with ease at a minimum production cost. The production
department must be able to produce the product easily, quickly, in ample
quantities and at a low production cost. The production process must not
be very complex, and it must not require costly machines to produce the
product.
7. Simplicity
The design of the product must be very simple. The simpler a design, the
easier, it is to produce and use (handle). Simple products are also
economical and reliable. The product must have the least number of
operations without affecting its functionality.
8. Compact
The product must be small; it must occupy less space, and must have lower
weight. In other words, it must be very compact. The company must try to
make its products as small as possible. Today, everything is turning smaller.
Big sized cell phones are now out of fashion. In the 1950s, computers were
as huge as spacious rooms. However, today we have laptops and palmtop
computers. Most products can be made compact. Still, this cannot be done
for all products. In case of televisions, it is just the opposite. Today people
want bigger televisions. Similarly, there is a limit on small size. We cannot
have a phone which is so tiny that it requires a microscope to see its keypad.
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INTRODUCTION TO QUALITY CONTROL
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Quality Control in Depth
Quality control helps a company reduce errors and produce products
efficiently that are of great quality; but how does a company implement
this? For Super Sports Warehouse, it offers training courses for managers
and employees. This helps keep them updated on ways to do things better.
The company also makes goals and objectives for its employees and
products to meet. This ensures that each employee knows what they are
working for and what is expected from them.
Cutting
Sewing Defects
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Sewing Defects
1. While doing stitching defects occurs
1. Weavy Seam.
2. Open Seam.
3. Skipped Seam.
4. Puckering.
5. Seam Grin
6. Broken stitch/Seam.
7. Looped and entangled stitch
8. Loose thread
9. Seam slippage
10. Needle Mark.
11. Missing Back Tack
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etc. Final inspection is very important for an export order shipment points
to be inspected for final inspection:-
1. Size measurement checking: In this process final garment needs to be
checked specially for measurement as garment was stitched as per
measurement given by the buyer. Final measurement sheet after
amendments or changing comments should be followed for this
process.
2. Form fitting checking:
(A) Placement of Pockets, Buttons and labels.
(B) Stitching defects like puckering, fullness in seam, fly.
(C) Uneven hem.
(D) Hiking front and back.
3. Garment fitting checking on dress form (if possible on live modals).
4. After packing checking size of poly bags & garment folds.
5. Aesthetic appeal.
6. Placement of hand tags (Price, brand name).
Criteria of checking:-
1. Appearance
2. Size and measurement.
3. Fitting.
Equipment used for final inspection:-
1. Measuring Tape.
2. Dress form as per the size required.
3. Final approved measurement sheet.
4. Checklist with sheets for other defects.
Final Inspection methodologies (Types of Final Inspection
):-
1. No Inspection: Generally no inspection concept is not followed in
apparel industry, but it depends on what type of buyer is buying
apparel from manufacturer or distributor like wholesaler retailer who
used to buy goods directly or through channel from apparel
manufacturer road side selling.
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2. 100% inspection: This type of Inspection is usually followed in apparel
industry when critical defects are occurred during raw material
Inspection as well as Inprocess inspection. In this type of inspection
total order quantity is checked completely even after packing. For high
Fashion garments which are used to make in rich fabric (Rich fabric
does not mean only shiny fabric, it can be technically structured wise
and according to texture having richness).Trims and accessories can
also be inspected 100% as they are costly than other casual garments.
3. Arbitrary / Random Inspection: In this type of final inspection process
10% of samples from total order quantity are used to be inspected. In
this process that 10% sample quantity can be taken of selected
randomly from whole ready shipment.
4. Statistical Inspection: In this type of inspection there is a statistical
system which is made for basic three types of defects that are minor
defects, major defects, critical defects. It can also be classified as types
of garment defects.
Quality assurance testing helps the process or product in the long run to
establish credibility. Testing can also be defined as the procedures adopted
to determine a product’s suitability and quality.
Textile testing starts with textile fibers and goes all the way through to the
final product. The fiber test includes the length, strength, elongation,
fineness, and maturity. The yarn test includes linear density, single yarn
strength, yarn evenness, and yarn hairiness. The fabric test includes aerial
density, weave type, and air permeability
On the basis of data obtained, testing can be classified into objective and
subjective. The former can be defined as the testing that gives us
quantitative data, which can be easily further processed and interpreted.
Subjective testing can be defined as that which gives us qualitative data,
which is difficult to interpret and is greatly influenced by operator.
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Importance of textile testing:
Principle importance of textile testing are;
1. To ensure the product quality
2. To control the manufacturing process
3. For customer satisfaction and retention
4. Good reputation (brand image) among consumers
Testing importantly supports the personnel involved in the textile supply
chain, from the textile fiber to the end product. The testing of textile
products aids persons involved in the running of the production line.
During testing, the discrepancy of the product, for example, its strength,
maturity, waste percentage (for fibers), aerial density, and weave design (for
fabrics), is properly measured. Thus the selection of the proper raw material
is an important factor. Standards of control should be maintained to reduce
waste, minimize price, and so on. Faulty machine parts or improper
maintenance of the machines can be easily detected with the help of textile
testing. Improved, less costly, and faster protocols can be developed by
researchers with the aid of testing. The efficiency and quality of the product
can also be enhanced with the help of regular and periodic testing.
The cycle of testing starts with the arrival of raw material and continues up
to delivery of the final product. The production of the required end quality
is impossible if the raw material is incorrect. The textile product supply chain
comprises different processes, which include the raw material (natural or
man-made fiber), yarn manufacturing, fabric manufacturing, textile
processing, and apparel and home furnishing manufacturing. It also includes
some industrial products, like ropes, cords, and conveyer belts. All the
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aforementioned processes are performed in separate units or in a single unit
if the establishment is a vertical production unit.
So the raw material for a spinning unit is fiber, for a weaving unit is yarn, for
a textile processing unit is greige fabric, and so on. “Raw material” is a
relative term that depends upon the further process for which it is used. Its
testing is an important step, as improper raw material or low grade raw
material will not yield the required quality of the end product. The testing
of raw material is also performed to verify whether the incoming material
accords with the trade agreement. Its consignment is therefore accepted or
rejected on the basis of test results. The agreed specifications should be
realistic so that the incoming raw material properties can meet the required
level easily.
The proper testing protocol as well as proper monitoring are also required.
The sampling techniques in use should also be selected properly, since the
wrong selection could lead to serious problems. At the same time, the
statistical tool employed is also an important factor. The collection of data
is one thing, but its proper evaluation and interpretation, and the action
taken on the basis of it, is an important factor in quality control.
Textile testing is vital to identify the particular cause of that fault so that it
can be avoided in future consignments. It will also help to rectify the running
process and enable it to run more smoothly so that the final product accords
with the customer’s requirement. It also helps to isolate the faulty part or
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machine so as to resolve any dispute between the supplier and the
producer.
SHADE SORTING
The shade sorting feature calculates a shade number for each sample based
on how close its color is to the standard, but ALSO has the ability to sort all
samples into shade groups and provide data on which samples belong to
each shade number. Shade numbering, sorting, and tapering are used in
many industries, but particularly the textile industry.
The shade numbering feature performs calculations on the sample data and
assigns each sample a shade number based on how close its color is to the
standard.
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