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An Overview of Apparel Design and Production Technology in Garment
Sector
By: Dr. Meenu Srivastava
The garment industry is based on fashion and invariably goes through short fashion cycles. To
survive in the market, there have to be regular innovations in colour, style, design, fabric, finish
and fit. Automated machinery and IT solutions are key in such a scenario to be competitive and
improve business results.
The growth of garment industry in terms of technology adoption can be traced from
pedal operated machines in the 60s. The industry moved on to power-operated
machines and steam presses in the mid-80s, started assembly line manufacturing in the
late 80s and then entered the phase of using computerized machines. The Industry saw
a rapid change with the introduction of computerization in the garment industry
Automated machines for cutting, sewing, buttonholes, CAD/CAM for pattern making,
etc, have brought down the cost of production considerably. As a result, garment
companies now focus on technology to be productive and cost-effective at the same
time. In terms of advancements in automation, present generation machines have under
bed trimmers, which stitch and trim excess thread simultaneously. This means a huge
saving on threads and excess manpower, besides this, there are automated machines for
stitching collars and cuffs, finishing machines, pressing machines, etc.
Apparel production technologies includes cutting, sewing, fusing, pressing, production, and
warehousing employed can vary according to their levels of sophistications. Quality procedures
are the main control function of any Apparel Industry. Some of the high-tech machines with
high speed and quieter operation offers better quality products within short time. Machine that
can combine two or more operations into one helped to increase the efficiency of an operation.
Some of them are,
a. Cutting technology:
Traditionally, long shears and scissor were the only instruments in
cutting fabric in garment sector but the scenario has changed a lot,
now, High Speed Single/Multi layer cutting machine with
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straight/round cutter are must in every garment production unit.
b. Sewing technology:
A traditional sewing machine is a textile machine used to stitch fabric or other material
together with thread. It uses needles to form a stitch by interlocking or inter looping thread
through the fabric. Since the invention of the first working sewing machine, generally
considered to have been the work of Englishman Thomas Saint in 1790,the sewing machine has
vastly improved the efficiency and productivity of fabric and clothing industries.
Most modern sewing machines employ two separate threads to form a special type of stitch
known as the lockstitch. The upper thread is led through an eye formed near the point of a
needle. The under thread is carried on a bobbin and is linked or locked to the upper thread by
means of a rotary or horizontal motion of the bobbin. In a typical machine employing a rotary
bobbin, the sequence of operations is as follows. The needle carrying the upper thread moves
downward through the material being sewed, and the thread is engaged above the eye of the
needle by a hook on the rim of the bobbin. As the bobbin turns, the upper thread is pulled out
to form a loop through which the under thread feeds.
The size of the loop is controlled by a tension device on the upper part of the machine. As the
needle withdraws, the locked loop formed by the two threads is tightened by the pull of a lever
take-up device to form a stitch. In a machine employing a horizontal bobbin held in a freely
moving shuttle, the stitch formed is exactly the same. The shuttle moves through the loop of
thread as the needle comes down, and then the shuttle returns to its original position as the
needle moves up.
Industrial Sewing Machines
• Industrial sewing machines are larger and heavier than home machines and are
designed to perform only one specific function.
• The basic parts of the industrial machine are called the “BIT” or frame . The “BIT” is
made of cast iron on a computer numerical control (CNC) machine that creates a casting
with appropriate holes for inserting components.
• Industrials machines as per design requirement , apply chain or zigzag stitch rather than
lock stitch. But machines may be-fitted for up to nine threads for strength
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Examples are- Single/Multi needle, flat bed/cylinder bed, Sewing machines, Interlock stitch
machines ,over lock stitch machines. Computer controlled, direct-drive, high speed, Lock
stitch//Zig Zag stitching machine produces high quality seams irrespective of sewing threads
and fabrics.
Advantages
• Adjustable stitch width and length control.
• Having a LCD screen with a control panel.
• Easily use on medium to heavy fabric.
• Produce many variety of designs.
• Well and high quality control.
• Heavy thread capable.
• High productivity.
• High performance.
• Saving energy.
• Easily make different types of stitches like-lock stitch, chain stitch and over lock
stitch.
Applications
For commercial uses in garment industry such as-Buttons and Buttonholes, Bar tacking, elastic
attaching, Flat lock stitching, Quilting on Upholstery, Decorative Stitching , button attaching,
Hemstitching on Jeans ,Leather , Plastics, Rubber, Foam, and Other applications.
Features of Modern Sewing Machine: -
• The presser foot pedal makes it very easy for the user to feed any type of fabric into the
sewing machine.
• The speed of the sewing machine can be controlled electronically.
• freehand embroidery
• There are also buttons that are easy to manage, such as the needle button, which can
move your needles either up and down automatically, as well as the start-and-stop
button.
c. Production technology:
Some of the high-speed machines are elastic attaching and flat lock machines with folder fro
knitted fabric, Automatic Front placketing and fusing machine, buttonhole sewing machine,
Button punching, Pleat making machine, Cuff turning and Blocking machine etc.
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An overview of different types of Industrial sewing machines are presented below-
• Button Sewing Machine
The machine is specially designed to sew metal button on the every kind of clothing, leather
and plastic ware. Against the different thick material. The sewing is secure, beautiful and safe,
never damage the button.
Operation Method: -
Before sew the button, must adjust the gap between up and
down moulds, f the gap is too small ill be damage the machine.
1. Put the metal button into the up and down mould, move
the clothing to the position which need sew the button ,
then press the safety Annulus by hand, step the pedal by
foot, the up mould rush to the down mould, finishing a
binding action.
2. Adjust the lowest position of up mould(i.e. adjust the
degree of binding tightness):
Put off the power and move the big belt wheel by hand,
so that the up mould lie the lowest position, loose the
Tight nut, adjust the Fix mould Screw to a suitable position, then screw the Tight Nut---
try to run.
• Button hole Machine
Features: -
• The button holing position can be easily adjusted.
• A mechanism in the needle thread trimmer prevents
interference with the positioning of buttonholes.
• The shape of the face plate is designed to provide
sufficient clearance around the needle entry position.
• The work clam check can be lifted as high as 12 mm,
making the machine easily capable of sewing heavy weight material such as bulky knits.
• The work clamp check can be easily lifted, helping to reduce operator fatigue.
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• The pressure required depressing the start pedal and lifter pedal has been reduce.
Automatic two or three thread chain stitch buttonhole machine to produce keyhole shaped
small, medium, large buttonholes for raincoat, jacket, jeans& work wear etc. This model is
recognized in the industry as the best ever automatic keyhole machine every made& produces a
perfectly stitched buttonhole. This machine would produce a buttonhole on a top of the range
be spoke suit on .Seville row for example .Sew the buttonhole automatically then cuts through
the fabric. Can adjust the size of the buttonhole to suit the garment, sale include different size
blades. Single phase electric & supplied with the halogen light.
• Bar Tacking Machine : -
For reinforcing the pulling parts on suits, jeans, uniform, fatigue dress, etc. reinforcing the round
buttonhole ends. For bar tacking various clothing, snapping the fasteners, attaching the ribbon
label etc. Independent thread-trimming improves sewing quality, avoiding efficiently loose
stitches of the chemical fiber from the beginning to the end, plays the performances effectively,
with excellent stable operation.
USES
• This machine suitable for general bar taking , from medium-weight materials to heavy
weight materials.
• Also for various uses such as umbrella, beg, belt, and loop etc.
d. Fusing technology
An essential item in garment unit, each unit of garment require stiffening are fused such as
neckline, collars, front facing, pockets etc.
In this, all the stitches get merged and fused along with the material for neat and clean finish.
The special fusing device with individual top and bottom temperature regulator provides right
temperature for quality fusing.
Fabric Fusing Machine
Fusing machines are most common and widely used in any
commercial set up of garment industry. In fusing machine, collars,
cuffs , front facings etc. are automatically and easily fused with a
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neat finish.
e. Surface enrichment technology
Surface enrichment technology includes High speed Computerized Embroidery Machine
,picoting machine and Sequin Attaching Sewing Machine etc.
• Border Making Machine
This machine is used to make different types of borders design.
which can be select from pattern memory . Large embroideries can
be machine produced based on design developed using AUTOCAD
or other design software.
The software allows the designer to shrink, enlarge, rotate , mirror design, and select colors and
types of stitches that can then be embroidered on materials ranging from satin to leather to
make products like baseball caps and jackets.
• Computerized Embroidery Machine
Ideal for both sewing and embroidery, this easy-to-use machine provides an array of
convenient features.
Machine Features:-
Simple bobbin winding – the bobbin can quickly and
easily be wound with thread.
Quick –set bobbin – One can start embroidering
without pulling up the bobbin thread.
Automatic thread cutting – The thread can be cut automatically after embroidering.
Embroidery –Embroider built-in embroidery pattern, character, framed
decorations, and designs from optional embroidery cards.
Computerized embroidery machine with LCD back-lit touch-screen control panel
Computer connectivity using USB port for transferring patterns from the Internet
Advanced needle-threading; on-screen editing; full array of accessories included
The unit also supplies a full array of accessories including an embroidery foot, a seam ripper,
bobbins, a needle set, a cleaning brush, screw drivers, spool caps, a spool net, scissors, and an
accessory bag, plus a dust cover, an operation manual, and a USB cable and reference guide.
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• Sequins attaching machine
This machine is used to attach the sequin on the fabric. There is a
wheel on which a roll of continuous sequin is wound. The fabric is
put on under the foot and sequin lace is placed on the fabric with
sewing. This is time saving machine and durability of the sequin
is also increased.
• Picoting Machine:
Picoting machine is suitable for sewing holes on the fashion,
scarves and shawls and various corresponding cloth.It is equiped
with large-hole needle ,medium -hole needle and small hole
needle. If necessary ,it can be equipped with back knife for
separation of sewing edge, This machine adopts foreign advanced
technology for design and improvement.
Applications:
Suitable for decorating stitches on ladies' dress, shirts, handkerchief, necktie, tablecloth, bed-
sheet, etc.
Feature:
Applied with Timing Belt mechanism, providing smooth & noiseless stitching even in
highspeed running . Automatic Presser Foot Lifting design, makes the curved picot stitches
smoothly and easily
f. Finishing Technology
Once a garment is complete it goes for edge finishing and trimming in overlock stitch machine
and finally steam ironed to give it finished look before packaging and shipment.
Overlock Sewing machine
This series of flatbed interlock machines can be used to apply
various stitches on different accessories to perform many
functional stitches. It is a necessary machinery for a mass
production of garments. And is widely in stretch sewing of
knitted materials such as under-wares, sports-wares, T-shirts,
shorts and knitted fashions, knitted coats and jeans. It is also
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applied for functions stitches like hem/collar bound seaming. Lace attaching stitches. fancy
stitches.
g. Pressing technology:
Iron with mini steam generator, Electronic heated steam pressure, Body pressure, Form finisher,
Shirt folding tables, Dry cleaning Machines etc.
Steam iron table
Vacuum is useful in two key ways. One, the most effective
pressing is done by pulling the steam through the layers. Second,
blowing up (via a readily accessible switch) reduces seam
imprinting by the iron. This is particularly noticeable if you’re
pressing several layers, the iron maps allowances underneath.
This table is reported to be good for napped fabrics like corduroy and velvets because blowing
up while pressing doesn’t crush the nap.
Conclusion:
Today the garment industry can not survive without the right technology. Leading Garment units
are early adopters of technology for improving fabric utilization and pattern generation. The
merging of the capabilities of the electronic sewing machine and the software machine and the
software industry is creating an ever – widening range of creative features for the versatile
machine. Sewing machines have become individual crafting devices and therefore, seem to have
a future as promising as the imagination of the operator.
The author is Associate Professor, Department of Textiles & Apparel designing, College of Home Science,
MPUAT, Udaipur (Raj.)
