Sewing Machinery

1. Simple automatic machines

2. Principles of lock stitch formation
3. Principles of chain stitch formation
 Sewing machine

 A sewing machine is a machine used to sew fabric and

materials together with thread.
 The sewing machine still has the important function of joining
woven and cut knitted fabrics.
 The machine with which fabric or garments are sewn,
that machine is called the sewing machine.
 Sewing machine is mainly of two types, such as:
Manually operated sewing
machine

Electrically operated
sewing machine
 Sewing machine

Manually operated sewing machine

The machines, in which sewing is done by physical power called
manually operated sewing machines.

Figure: Manually Operated Sewing Machine

 Electrically operated sewing machine

Electrically operated sewing machine

The machines, in which sewing is done by electrical power called
electrically operated sewing machines.

Figure: Electrically Operated Sewing Machine

 Electrically operated sewing machine

List of common sewing machine used in garment industry:

1. Lock stitch machine 8. Button sewing machine

2. Chain stitch machine 9. Bartack machine
3. Over lock machine 10. Linking machine
4. Zig-zag stitch machine 11. Special sewing machine
5. Flat lock machine
6. Blind stitch machine
7. Button hole machine
 Types of stitching group machine
Mainly there are 2 stitching group of machine that are:
1. Lock stitch group (Interlacement)
2. Chain stitch group (Interlooping/Intralooping)
Name of the lockstitch Name of the chainstitch group machine
group machine
1. Single needle lockstitch 1. Single needle chain stitching m/c (Intralooping)
m/c
2. Double needle lockstitch 2. Double thread chain stitching m/c (Inter
m/c looping)
3. Bartack stitching m/c 3. Feed of the arm m/c (Intralooping)
4. Button holing m/c 4. 4 needle kansai special m/c (Interlooping)
6. Zig-Zag stitching m/c 5. Overlock stitching m/c (Interlooping)
7. Button sewing m/c 6. Flat lock stitching m/c (Interlooping)
a. Cylinder bed flatlock (Interlooping)
b. Flat bed flatlock (Interlooping)
7. Button sewing m/c (Interlooping)
8. Button holing m/c (Intralooping/Interlacement)
 Simple automatic machines

Some machines are found to be sewed for special purposes such

as,
o button hole machine
o button sewing machine
o bartack machine and so on.
In these machines, the predetermined work is done by cyclic order
that is why called simple automatic sewing machine. Various simple
automatic sewing machines used in the garment industry.
 Simple automatic machines

The followings are the description of some simple automatic

sewing machines:
Features of Button hole sewing machine:
– It is easy adjustment of hole size & stitch density are
facilitated.
– The hole is cut either before or after stitching.
– It is a straight or shaped slit cut.
– Special type of thread is used for sewing.
– Usage: To make hole in fabric/garment for button attaching
 Simple automatic machines

Features of Button attaching m/c:

– It is a simple automatic m/c.
– Button positioning can be automatic.
– Sewing is according to the hole in the button & may be cross
or parallel.
– Automatic feeding of the shirt buttons.
– Stitch type: lock stitch or chain stitch may use.
– Usage: To attach different types of buttons in garments.
 Simple automatic machines

Features of Bartack m/c:

– Bartack machine provides forward and backward stitching in
a short length and sews a dense tack.
– Bartacks containing 18 to 72 stitches, has option to change
stitch density.
– Bartack machine based on lock stitches.
– Usage: Attaching belt loops. Increasing strength in corner of
pocket. Closing the two corners of button hole. At the end of
zipper. In that place where more strength is needed to
support the extra load.
 Lock stitch sewing machines

Features of single needle lock stitch machine

• Two threads need for a machine, one for needle and another one for
bobbin.
• Needle thread is set in the upper side of the fabric and bobbin thread
is set in the lower side of the fabric in stitch.
• Stitching type only lock stitch.
• Machine speed is 4000-5000 RPM.
• 1 needle in every machine.
• Edge cutting, automatic bobbin winding.
Uses: Lock stitch sewing machine is ideal for formed underwear, ladies
wear, and other clothes. It can be used for making any type of apparel.
Especially, it is used for collar, front placket, bottom hem etc.
• It is also used for make shirt, pant, dresses etc.
 Chain stitch sewing machine

Features of chain Stitch sewing machine

• The machines which form chain stitch with one or more threads are
called chain stitch sewing machine.
• One or more needles in chain stitch sewing machine.
• Here, needle thread is interconnected with looper thread.
• Same thread is used here to interconnect with each loop.
• Stitches can be easily unpicked from the last to the first.
• Uses: This type of machine is used for both woven and knitted fabric
and also for heavy fabric like jeans and denim. Chain stitch is used in
jeans pant inseam and in shirt side seam. It is also used for front
placket sewing.
 Flatlock Sewing Machines

Features of Flatlock sewing machine

• This machine is called a cover-stitch sewing machine.
• Flatlock sewing machines normally come with 2-3 needles.
• For bottom cover stitch machine; 2 needle threads pass through the
material and interloop with 1 looper thread with the stitch set on the
underside of the seam.
• Flatlock sewing machine form stitches like titch class 406.
• Flatlock machines are available in two types - Flatbed and Cylinder
bed.
• Usage: Flatlock sewing machines are used for hemming of sleeve and
bottom of the knits products. A cover-stitch machine can be used in
any part of the garment for decorative purposes.
 Overlock sewing machines

Features of Overlock Sewing Machine

• Maximum Machine speed 6500 SPM (vary operation-wise)
• Stitch can be made using 2,3,4,5 or 6 threads
• Stitch length 2 to 4 mm.
• Stitching type- Overlock stitch.
• The used feed is deferential feed.
• Oil lubrication system- automatic.
• Uses: Most are used in industry for edging, hemming and seaming a
variety of fabrics and products. Overlock stitches are extremely
versatile, as they can be used for decoration, reinforcement, or
construction.
Principle of lock & chain stitch formation

• Pls study from ref. book or any other resources in the world.