© Lonely Planet Publications

330

Ghana
In Ghana life is public. People evacuate their homes and apartments every day to escape
the stifling heat. And much like the kente cloth worn by market women, the disparate parts
and peoples somehow mix and weave together into a cohesive whole. Ghana is home to a
number of diverse peoples and cultures, all finding ways to coexist in a rapidly modernising
country. You’ll see men and women in traditional clothes text messaging friends and suited
GHANA

businessmen taking offerings to tribal chiefs.

Compared to other countries in the region, Ghana is stable and prosperous, but this
valuation is in part founded on hopes for the future. The country is often labelled ‘Africa
for beginners’, and while you’ll likely be welcomed by the people in a hot, sweaty clinch,
the same way the sun grabs hold of you the second after you step outside, getting around
is by no means easy.

Ghana has no iconic calling card like Victoria Falls or Kilimanjaro, but one look at a map
reveals a geographic blessing: hundreds of kilometres of coast shared by beautiful beaches,
ruined European forts, the poignant reminders of the country’s importance as a way station
for African slaves, and the battered shacks of lively fishing villages. Accra is the commercial
and cultural motor of the country, while Kumasi is the traditional home of the Ashanti, and
is famous for its crafts. In the Volta region to the east, where the geography was given a
facelift by the Akosombo dam, you can still find substantial swathes of forest crawling up
mountains along the Togo border. And finally the north, which offers opportunities for
wildlife viewing up close and personal, stretches across the horizon like an overcooked
pancake to the Burkina Faso frontier.

FAST FACTS

Area 238,537 sq km

ATMs Available

Borders Côte d’Ivoire, Burkina Faso, Togo

Budget US$30 to US$50 per day

Capital Accra

Languages English, Twi, Ga and Ewe

Money Cedi; US$1 = C9200

Population 21 million

Seasons Wet (late April to October), dry (November to late
March)

Telephone Country code %233; international access code %00

Time GMT/UTC

Visa US$50 in advance or US$100 upon arrival at airport
lonelyplanet.com G HA N A • • H i g h l i g h t s 331

HIGHLIGHTS
Beach life (p342) Soak up the rays and HOW MUCH?


Rasta vibe at a beach resort in Axim,
Handkerchief US$0.20
Busua, Anomabu or Kokrobite.

Bottle of Fanta US$0.30

Past life (p343 and p344) Tour the castles
at Cape Coast and Elmina to learn about
Music CD US$10
the history of slavery.
Inner-city taxi US$0.90

Wildlife (p349) Engage in a staring con-

Coffin in the shape of a Mercedes
test with a bus-sized elephant in Mole
US$550
National Park.

Hiplife (p341) Take in Accra’s club scene,
LONELY PLANET INDEX
the birthplace of some of the region’s
most popular music.
1L petrol US$0.80

GHANA

Village life (p349) Rough it in one of the

1L bottled water US$0.70
community tourism projects, such as
the stilt village at Wechiau Community
Bottle of Star beer US$0.50
Hippo Sanctuary.
Souvenir T-shirt US$10

Beef kebab skewer US$0.30
CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO
Ghana has a tropical equatorial climate,
which means that it’s hot year-round with
seasonal rains. In the humid southern coastal the surrounding area, then head back to
region, the rainy seasons are from April to Accra.
June, and during September and October; the
One Month With four weeks to spare, you
dry months, November to March or July and can do everything in the two-week itin-
August, are easier for travelling. Throughout erary plus throw in visits to the coastal
the year, maximum temperatures are around resorts at Busua (p344) and those further
30°C, dropping three or four degrees during along the coast, and also explore some
the brief respite between rainy seasons. The of the north. If possible fly from Accra
humidity is constantly high, at about 80%. to Tamale (p348; one night) – if not take
In the central region, the rains are heavier your time bussing it to Kumasi and then
and last longer. In the hotter and drier north, further north – and on to Mole National
there is one rainy season, lasting from April Park (p349) and Larabanga (p349; two
to October. Midday temperatures rarely fall nights). Continue west to the hippo sanc-
below 30°C, rising to 35°C and higher during tuary at Wechiau (p349), if time permits,
December to March when the rasping harmat- and return to Kumasi. From there you
tan wind blows in from the Sahara. can head south to Accra and then visit
The tourist high season is from June to the east: Akosombo (p350; one night)
August, which coincides with the summer and Wli Falls (p350) and back to Accra.
vacation in the US. The country sees few tour- Alternatively, head directly to the coastal
ists from September to December. resorts of your choice from Kumasi.

ITINERARIES HISTORY

Two Weeks Without private transporta- Present-day Ghana has been inhabited since
tion two weeks is really only enough 4000 BC, filled by successive waves of mi-
time to do the triangular route bounded grants from the north and east. By the 13th
by Accra, Takoradi to the west, and Ku- century several kingdoms had developed,
masi at the top. Start in Accra (p335; growing rich from the country’s massive gold
three days), then head to the beach at deposits and gradually expanding south along
Anomabu (p342; two nights), then on the Volta River to the coast.
to Cape Coast (p342; three nights), with
day trips to Kakum (p343) and Elmina Power & Conflict
(p344). If you want to mix things up take By the 16th century one of the kingdoms, the
the night train from Takoradi (p344) to Ashanti, emerged as the dominant power,
Kumasi (p345; three nights) to explore conquering tribes left, right and centre and
 332 G HA N A lonelyplanet.com

0 100 km
GHANA 0 60 miles

ὈὈ
To Pô (20km); Sinkassé
To Léo (20km) Ouagadougou (150km) BURKINA
Bitou FASO
Bawku

Red V
To Bobo- Paga

Rive
Hamale Tumu
Dioulasso
(150km) Dapaong

r
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Navrongo Garu

BENIN
Lawra Bolgatanga
BURKINA

Nakpanduri
FASO

Tongo
Gambarga Nalerigu

River
Sansanné-

ὈὈὈ
Mango
Walewale

Wa

ta
Wechiau

Vol
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GHANA

Mole

ite
NP
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Bouna Sawla Tamale Natchamba

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Rive

Oti
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Ferkessédougou Bole Fufulso Yapei
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(300km)
lta

Buipe
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NP Da
TOGO
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ὈὈ
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Makongo Nkwanta
Kintampo
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Boabeng-Fiema Atebubu Kwadiokrom Kete-Krachi Badou

ὈὈὈὈ
Wenchi Monkey Sanctuary
Fer

Techiman
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Nkoranza
Berekum Jasikan
Digya NP
Ejura
Sunyani
River

Agnibilékrou
Hohoe Wli
Ahwiaa
Mampong Mt Afadjato (885m)
Bia

Owabi Wildlife Liati Wote

Ntonso Bonwire Klouto
Sanctuary Bobiri Forest Reserve Kpandu Kpalimé
Kumasi Konongo Tafi-Atome
Ejisu Amedzofe
Bia NP Lake
Abonu Mt Gemi
Nkawkaw Volta Ho
Bibiani
Lake Kpetoe
Bosumtwi Akosombo Mt Adaklu
Wiawso Obuasi Atimpoku
Volt LOMÉ
iver

Koforidua Somanya a River

Kade Akatsi

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Pra R

Sogakope Denu
Dunkwa Aflao
Oda Dabala Keta
Asamankese
Assin Attandanso Aburi Ada Kasseh
Resource Anloga
To Abidjan (150km) Reserve Ada
Tema
Aboisso Ankasa Nature
Reserve
Kakum ACCRA
Elubo Kokrobite
NP
Tarkwa Winneba
Anomabu Apam
Elmina
Cape Saltpond
Half Agona Sekondi Shama
Assini Beyin Junction Coast
Axim
Takoradi

Dixcove Busua

ATLANTIC OCEAN NP National Park

Gulf of Guinea
lonelyplanet.com G HA N A • • H i s t o r y 333

taking control of trade routes to the coast. Its Nkrumah, however, skilfully kept himself
capital, Kumasi, became a sophisticated urban out of the fray and concentrated on building
centre, with facilities and services equal to prestige projects, such as the Akosombo Dam
those in Europe at the time. And it wasn’t long and several universities and hospitals.
until the Europeans discovered this African But things started to unravel. Nkrumah
kingdom. First the Portuguese came sniffing expanded his personal bodyguard into an en-
around the coast, and then came the British, tire regiment, while corruption and reckless
French, Dutch, Swedes and Danes. They all spending drove the country into serious debt.
built forts by the sea and traded slaves, gold Nkrumah, seemingly oblivious to his growing
and other goods with the Ashanti. unpopularity, made the fatal mistake of going
But the slave trade was abolished in the on a state visit to China in 1966. While he
19th century, and with it went the Ashanti’s was away his regime was toppled in an army
domination. By that time the British had taken coup. Nkrumah died six years later in exile

GHANA
over the Gold Coast, as the area had become in Guinea.
called, and began muscling in on Ashanti Dr Kofi Busia headed a civilian government
turf. This sparked several wars between the in 1969, but could do nothing to overcome
two powers, which culminated in the British the corruption and debt problems. Colonel
ransacking of Kumasi in 1874. The British Acheampong replaced him in a 1972 coup,
then established a protectorate over Ashanti but few things changed under his tenure.
territory, which they expanded in 1901 to
include areas to the north. The Gold Coast Jerry Rawlings’ Regime
was now a British colony. By 1979 Ghana was suffering food shortages
and people were out on the streets demon-
The Road to Independence strating against the army ‘fat cats’. Onto the
By the late 1920s the locals were itching for scene came Jerry Rawlings: a good-looking,
independence, and they set up political parties charismatic, half-Scottish air force pilot who
dedicated to this aim. However, parties like kept cigarettes behind his ear and spoke the
the United Gold Coast Convention (UGCC), language of the people. Nicknamed ‘Junior
formed in 1947, were too elitist and detached Jesus’, Rawlings caught the public’s imagina-
from those they were meant to represent – the tion with his calls for corrupt military rulers
ordinary workers. So the UGCC’s secretary- to be confronted and held accountable for
general, Kwame Nkrumah, broke away in Ghana’s problems. The military jailed him
1948 and formed the Conventional People’s for his insubordination, but his fellow junior
Party (CPP), which became an overnight suc- officers freed him after they staged an uprising.
cess. Nkrumah was impatient for change and Rawlings’ Armed Forces Revolutionary Coun-
called for a national strike in 1949. The Brit- cil (AFRC) then handed over power to a civil-
ish, anxious about his popularity, jailed him. ian government (after a general election) and
Despite this, the CPP won the elections of started a major ‘house-cleaning’ operation –
1951, Nkrumah was released and he became that is, executing and jailing senior officers.
prime minister. When Ghana finally won The new president, Hilla Limann, was
its independence in March 1957, Nkrumah uneasy with Rawlings’ huge popularity, and
became the first president of an independ- later accused him of trying to subvert con-
ent African nation. His speeches, which de- stitutional rule. The AFRC toppled him in a
nounced imperialism and talked about a free, coup in 1981, and this time Rawlings stayed
united Africa, made him the darling of the in power for the next 15 years.
Pan-African movement. Although Rawlings never delivered his
promised left-wing revolution, he improved
Independence & the Nkrumah Years the ailing economy after following the orders
But back home Nkrumah was not popular of the International Monetary Fund (IMF).
among traditional chiefs and farmers, who During part of the 1980s Ghana enjoyed Af-
were unimpressed with the idea of unity under rica’s highest economic growth rates.
his rule. Factionalism and regional interests
created an opposition that Nkrumah tried to The Democratic Era
contain through repressive laws, and by turn- By 1992 Rawlings was under worldwide pres-
ing Ghana into a one-party state. sure to introduce democracy, so he lifted the
 334 G HA N A • • C u l t u re lonelyplanet.com

10-year ban on political parties and called across shop fronts in every town and city
a general election. However, the hopelessly throughout the country.
divided opposition couldn’t get their act to- But that’s not to say they can’t have fun.
gether, and Rawlings won the 1992 elections Ghanaians will find any excuse to dance, and
freely and fairly, with 60% of the vote. Still even the most sedate boat rides can turn into a
licking their wounds, the opposition with- massive party as young men and old grannies
drew from the following month’s parliamen- gyrate their hips to the musical fusion genres
tary elections, giving Rawlings’ newly formed of highlife and hiplife. The latter is a more
National Democratic Congress (NDC) an recent invention that takes a page from the
easy victory. In 1996 he repeated this triumph American hip-hop world.
in elections that were again considered free Ghanaians have produced some of Africa’s
and fair. best and most well-known musicians, and this
vibrancy is a reflection of a society that is more
GHANA

Ghana Today culturally self-confident than most. Whether

After eight years of Rawlings and the NDC it’s music, or exquisite Ashanti kente cloth,
(the constitution barred Rawlings from stand- stools or woodcarvings, Ghanaian products
ing for a third term in the 2000 presiden- (and imitations of them) are scattered all over
tial elections), his nominated successor and West Africa.
former vice-president, Professor John Atta Maybe the most famous and arguably the
Mills, lost to Dr John Kufuor, leader of the most important Ghanaian is Otunfu Osei II,
well-established New Patriotic Party (NPP), the king of the Ashanti. He’s considered at
which also won a slim majority in the par- least as influential as the president, in part be-
liamentary elections. Kufour and the NPP cause he rules with no term limits and because
were victorious again in 2004, which means of his relative youth; he’s only in his 50s. Some
that each party will have had eight years in Ghanaians living abroad send remittances
power by the time the next national elections to the king, some money comes from allow-
roll around. ances paid by the government, and some of
Kufuor and the NPP inherited some tough his wealth comes from taxes or tributes given
economic and political challenges; the party’s by the people themselves.
slogan, ‘So Far So Good’, is perhaps an uncan-
nily accurate reflection of the confidence they ARTS & CRAFTS
and the country hold. Even though both par- Ghana has a rich artistic heritage. Objects are
ties continue to be criticised for cronyism and created not only for their aesthetic value but
corruption, Ghana’s economy continues to as symbols of ethnic identity or to commemo-
grow and attract investment, and the outlook rate historical or legendary events, to convey
is brighter than in many other parts of Africa. cultural values or to signify membership of a
That being said, in 2005 the per-capita income group. The Akan people of the southern and
was an estimated US$2500 and Ghana is clas- central regions are famous for their cloth,
sified by the UN as a low-income, food-deficit goldwork, woodcarving, chiefs’ insignia (such
country. The majority of very poor people as swords, umbrella tops and linguist staffs),
live in rural areas. The bulk of the country’s pottery and bead-making.
labour force is employed in agriculture, which
accounts for 37% of its GDP and 35% of its ENVIRONMENT
export earnings. Ghana is about the size of Britain. Much of
Ghana’s terrain consists of wooded ranges,
CULTURE wide valleys and low-lying coastal plains. The
If there’s one feature of Ghanaian society that damming of the Volta River in the mid-1960s
sticks out more than any other, it has to be created the world’s largest artificial lake.
religion. The country is 15% Muslim, 70% Logging, mining, the use of wood fuels and
Christian and 100% obsessed with spiritual deforestation for agriculture have reduced
worship. This is the land of glory, gold and Ghana’s forests from over 8 million sq km
God, after all, and God is everywhere: ‘God in the early 20th century to less than 2 mil-
is Love Hair Salon’, ‘Jesus Loves Me Forex lion sq km now. Marine and coastal areas are
Bureau’ and ‘Forgiveness Communications’ threatened by high erosion and population
are just some of the pious names emblazoned concentration.
lonelyplanet.com A CC R A • • I n f o r m a t i o n 335

Population densities are highest within the INFORMATION

Accra-Kumasi-Takoradi triangle, largely be- Bookshops
cause of the timber-producing deciduous for- Books for Less (Map p336; 17th Lane, Osu)
ests and cocoa-growing lands, which stimulate EPP Books (Map p336; Burma Camp Rd, Labadi)
economic productivity.
Ghana has five national parks and nine pro- Cultural Centres
tected areas. Mole National Park (p349), in the Alliance Française (Map p336; %773134; alliance@
northwest of the country, protects savannah ghana.com; Liberation Link, Airport Residential Area)
woodland and is the best place to see wildlife, Lectures and cultural events; every Tuesday is movie night.
including elephants, baboons and antelope British Council (Map p338; %244744; Liberia Rd;
species. Kakum National Park (p343), just www.britishcouncil.org/ghana) Air-con library open to the
inland of Cape Coast, is known for its canopy public. English newspapers and magazines, and lectures
walkway and is a good place to see rainforest and cultural events.

GHANA
habitat and birdlife.
Internet Access
FOOD & DRINK Busy Internet (Map p338; Ring Rd, Asylum Down; per
A typical Ghanaian meal consists of a starch hr US$1.10; h24hr) Hi-tech, popular internet café and
staple, such as rice, fufu (mashed cassava, entertainment centre; great place to watch a movie.
plantain or yam), kenkey or banku (fer- Internet Café (Map p338) Across from the White Bell
mented maize meal) eaten with a sauce or restaurant, on the left.
stew. Common sauces (called soups) include Mega Internet (Map p338; Ring Rd, Asylum Down; per
groundnut, palaver (made from greens) and hr US$1.10; h4.30am-1.30am) Flat-screen computers,
light soup (egg and tomato sauce with fish all office-related services.
or meat). Other menu regulars are fried rice Osu Internet Café (Map p336; Mission St, Osu; per hr
with chicken or vegetables, jollof rice (the US$0.75; h24hr)
West African paella) and red, red, bean stew Sharpnet (Map p336; Ring Rd East, Osu; per hr US$1.10;
with meat or fish, often served with fried h24hr)
plantains. The meat used is usually chicken,
goat or beef; guinea fowl replaces chicken Medical Services
in the north of the country. Grasscutter, a Pharmacies are scattered around everywhere,
large rodent, is also popular. Fish, usually but as an alternative you can try the super-
dried and smoked, is a common component markets in Osu.
of meals. Omo tuo, a special dish served only 37 Military Hospital (Map p336; %776111; Liberation
on Sunday, is mashed rice balls with a fish Ave)
or meat soup. North Ridge Clinic (Map p336; %227328, 024-355366;
Ring Rd Central)

ACCRA Trust Hospital (%776787; Cantonments Rd, Osu)

Money
%021 / pop 2 million The head offices of Barclays and Standard
With its back mostly turned to the Gulf of Chartered are both on High St (Map p338)
Guinea, taking little advantage of its water- and there are several branches around town,
front location, Accra crawls up and over a all of which have ATMs. Forexes are scattered
modern landscape, gobbling up real estate and around the city.
producing a chaotic low-rise skyline. Origi- Afro Wings Ltd (Map p338; Farrar Ave) In the Trust
nally a scattering of villages controlled by Ga Towers complex. Amex representative.
chiefs, today it’s a sprawling city that extends Forbes Forex Bureau (Map p336; Cantonment Rd, Osu)
eastwards almost 25km to the neighbouring Jibrin Forex Bureau (Map p338; Kojo Thompson Rd,
city of Tema. Its congested and pockmarked Adabraka)
pavements; baking streets that in the midday Star Forex Bureau (Map p338; High St) In the entrance
heat can make a block feel like a kilometre; to the Centre for National Culture.
shanty towns and genteel leafy suburbia;
chop bars and gourmet restaurants; hiplife Post
and highlife; all combine to make Accra at Accra North post office (Map p336; Nsawam Rd) Just
once exhausting and exhilarating. north of Nkrumah Circle.
 GHANA
0 2 km
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37 Military Hospital..................1 E2 43 d

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Alliance Française.....................3 E1 h 4t 41

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Australian High Commision......4 E3 34 15 La 21 Cabra

Rd
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Beninese Embassy.....................5 E2

6th
Borstal Rd
La Ag e to Kotoka

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Books for Less..........................6 B2 35 o st ino N International

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45 16
British High Commission..........7 D3 th 3 Airport

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Canadian High Commission.....8 D3 31 6 La

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Dutch Embassy........................9 D3 37 38 17

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26 th

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EPP Books..............................10 F3 18
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Expertravel & Tours................11 E3 32 La
48 12

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Forbes Forex Bureau...............12 B2 15

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Ivorian Embassy.....................15 B2 inn 5

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47

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Japanese Embassy..................16 E3 aR 2

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Liberian Embassy....................17 E1 Neh

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Nigerian Embassy...................18 E3 DRINKING Nkrumah 13

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Rd

North Ridge Clinic.................19 D3 Bywel Bar.............................. 36 D4 Ring Rd Central

e
Lamptey 9 Sankara 18 Cantonments
Osu Internet Café..................20 B2 Duncan's Bar.......................... 37 B2
Av
19 Interchange
Circle 49 Circle
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Sharpnet................................21 C1 Nourish Lab Smoothy's..........38 B2 14
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US Embassy............................24 B1
Ca

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ENTERTAINMENT

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Castle Rd

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SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Indigo....................................41 C1

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Hoh duard
Timber Market...................... 25 C4 Jazz Tone................................42 E1

Rd
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In
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h e Labone
Macumba...............................43 C1 Circle d

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6t Av

Kojo Thompson Rd
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SLEEPING se it ho
Train s Ri 11 S
Frankie’s Hotel.......................26 B2 SHOPPING Station Na ng

Ring Road West

La
Osu Rd bo
Niagara Plus Hotel..................27 C1 Aid to Artisans Ghana ne 10 44
Kinbu

Sla
Rd Ea St
Penta Hotel............................28 B1 (ATAG)............................(see 44) st

ter
Barnes Rd
Rest Inn..................................29 C1 Trade Fair Centre...................44 F3
Korle See Enlargement To Teshie (3km); Coco

Av
Beach (7km); Tema (25km)

e
Woodin Boutique...................45 Lagoon
B1 25 Selwyn Market St
EATING Korle Bu Ussher 28th February Rd Labadi 36 39
Buku.......................................30 B1 TRANSPORT Town Rd ss
St Osu ypa 50
di B

Hansen
Nettey Rd h Castle Laba Labadi
Dynasty Restaurant................31 B2 Antrak....................................46 B1 Hig
Guggisb Beach

Rd
Frankie's..............................(see 26) Kaneshie Motor erg Ave
Park.............. 47 B2
4 La Pleasure Hotel
Haveli.....................................32 B2 KLM Royal Dutch Airlines....(see 19) James Beach
Koala Supermarket.................33 B1 South African Airways............48 B2 Town See Central Accra Map (p338) (Labadi Beach)
Mama Mia's...........................34 B1 VanefSTC Bus Station (Main ATLANTIC OCEAN
Fishing
Monsoon.............................(see 35)
Osu Food Court......................35 B1
Old Winneba
Terminal)........................... C3
49 Rd
Virgin Nigeria.........................50 F4
Cleland Rd
James Harbour
Fort
Ὀ (Gulf of Guinea)
lonelyplanet.com
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com A CC R A • • S i g h t s & A c t i v i t i e s 337

Main post office (Map p338; Ussher Town) On the are undoubtedly poor and you may feel un-
Lutterodt intersection. comfortably voyeuristic just walking around
on your own. Ask a local to take you around;
Tourist Information negotiate a fee in advance.
Accra Visitor’s Centre (Map p338; %252186; For a great view of the city and the busy
bentsifi@ighmail.com) Near Mega Internet on Ring Rd and colourful fishing harbour (haze and pol-
Central. Has maps, and is reasonably helpful. lution permitting), climb to the top of the
Tourist information counter (%776171, ext 1314; old lighthouse (Map p336; admission US$0.30) near
Airport) A small counter in the international arrivals hall James Fort.
at the airport. If you’re walking back to the centre along
Tourist office (Map p338; %231817; h8am-4pm Cleland Rd, which becomes High St, you
Mon-Fri) This is 50m down Education Close, off Barnes Rd. could take a detour along Hansen Rd to see
Not a good source of practical information. the Timber Market (Map p336; ask someone to

GHANA
show you where it is). The fetish section is fas-
Travel Agencies cinating, with its animal skulls, live and dead
Doscar Travel & Tours (Map p338; %239229; fax reptiles, strange powders, and juju figurines.
248328; Sedco House, 5 Tabon St) Next to Le Petit Paris While most of Accra’s oceanfront real es-
Café. tate is rocky and undeveloped, there are sev-
Expertravel & Tours (Map p336; %775498; fax 773937; eral sandy beaches. La Pleasure Beach (Map p336;
Ring Rd East) admission US$2.20), also known as Labadi Beach,
M&J Travel & Tours (Map p336; %773153; fax 774338; is about 8km east of central Accra and easily
11th Lane, Osu) reached by public transport. Unfortunately
WB Travel & Tours (Map p338; %245900; since the swimming area is so narrow it’s a
wbtravel@wwwplus.com; 29 Farrar Ave) Opposite Hotel little claustrophobic on weekends.
President.
SLEEPING
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Most of the budget accommodation is gener-
The gently decaying National Museum (Map p338; ally clustered off Kwame Nkrumah and Kojo
%221633; Barnes Rd; adult/student US$5/2.20; h9am-6pm Thompson Rds in Adabraka. While Osu is the
Tue-Sun), set in shady grounds, has interesting most convenient place to base yourself, rooms
displays on various aspects of Ghanaian cul- there are US$40 and up and aren’t especially
ture and history. The displays on royal stools, good value. The closest you can get to beach or
state umbrellas, swords and akyeamepoma resort-style accommodation are the two top-
(linguist’s staffs) are enlightening. end hotels at La Pleasure Beach. The Novotel is
There is no front door or welcoming sign the nicest place to stay in the city centre.
to the Makola Market (Map p338). It’s a gradual
transition from the usual pavements clogged Adabraka
with vendors hawking second-hand clothes Date Hotel (Map p338; %228200; Adama Rd, Adabraka;
and shoes to the market itself, which only r from US$9) The concrete courtyard is a drink-
becomes obvious once you can’t take a step ing spot during the day, and the fan rooms
without tripping over a pile of Chinese-made are bare-bare bones. Bring your own bath
locks or tube socks and you’re sucked into the towel.
vortex of the swirling crowds. Hotel President (Map p338; %223343; Farrar Ave,
Independence (Black Star) Square (Map p338) is Adabraka; r with fan/air-con from US$15/20; p) Despite
a vast, baking expanse of concrete dominated a grandiose name and a convenient location,
by a ginormous McDonalds-like arch, beneath this purple multistorey hotel is a little ratty,
which the Eternal Flame of African Libera- though the air-con rooms are quite large.
tion, lit by Nkrumah, still flickers. Calvary Methodist Church Guesthouse (Map p338;
Because they are fairly concentrated and %234507; Barnes Rd, West Ridge; r US$24; pa) The
walkable, James Town and Ussher Town (both on rooms on the top floor of a building in this
Map p336), two of the oldest neighbourhoods compound are divine for the price. Each of
in Accra, provide a chance to witness how the six rooms are spotless and modern and
ordinary Ghanaians go about their everyday have small balconies.
lives. These aren’t shantytowns like you’d find Beverly Hills Hotel (Map p338; %224042; Samora
in Johannesburg or Nairobi, but the people Machel Rd; r US$33; pa) You won’t mistake this
 338 A CC R A • • C e n t r a l A c c r a lonelyplanet.com

0 500 m
CENTRAL ACCRA 0 0.3 miles

A B C Kusia St D

Kokomlemle
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Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com A CC R A • • E a t i n g 339

INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES DRINKING

Accra Visitor's Centre..................1 B1 Makola Market.........................20 B5 Champs Sports Bar.................(see 28)
Afro Wings Ltd.......................(see 29) National Museum.....................21 C3 Osekan.....................................34 B6
Barclays Bank...............................2 B1
Barclays Bank..............................3 B5 SLEEPING ENTERTAINMENT
Barclays Bank (Head Office)........4 B6 Beverly Hills Hotel.....................22 C2 Bass Line...................................35 D1
British Council............................. 5 C4 Calvary Methodist Church Vienna City Entertainment
Burkinabé Embassy..................... 6 D2 Guesthouse.......................... 23 C3 Complex...............................36 B2
Busy Internet...............................7 C1 Date Hotel................................24 B3
Doscar Travel & Tours.............(see 30) Hotel President..........................25 B2 SHOPPING
German Embassy........................ 8 D3 Korkdam Hotel......................... 26 D2 Centre for National
Internet Café...............................9 B2 North Ridge Culture................................. 37 C6
Jibrin Forex Bureau....................10 B3 Hotel....................................27 D3 Loom........................................38 A2
Main Post Office...................... 11 A6 Paloma Hotel............................28 C1
Malian Embassy........................ 12 C5 TRANSPORT
Mega Internet...........................13 C1 EATING Alitalia...................................... 39 D1
Standard Chartered Bank..........14 B4 Choos Eatery............................ 29 C2 British Airways..........................40 B4

GHANA
Standard Chartered Bank..........15 C1 Edvy Restaurant......................(see 21) Lufthansa Airlines......................41 D1
Standard Chartered Bank.......... 16 C4 Le Petit Paris.............................30 D1 Neoplan Motor
Standard Chartered Bank Orangery..................................31 B2 Park.......................................42 A1
(Head Office)........................17 B6 Paloma Tema Station............................ 43 C5
Star Forex Bureau...................(see 37) Restaurant..........................(see 28) Tudu Station.............................44 B5
Tourist Office........................... 18 C3 Spicy Chicken........................... 32 C2 VanefSTC Bus Station (to Ho,
WB Travel & Tours....................19 B2 White Bell.................................33 B2 Hohoe & Aflao).....................45 B5

centrally located hotel for the Four Seasons, separates your cell from your neighbour’s and
though its rooms are large and the furnishings the water pressure is lousy. Still it’s a better
are comfortable. choice than next-door Lemon Lodge.
North Ridge Hotel (%225809; nrhotel@hotmail
Osu .com.gh; 49 Examination Loop; s/d US$50/60; pa) The
Rest Inn (Map p336; %785543; www.therestinn.com; 14th friendly North Ridge is a large building on a
Lane; r US$45; pa) As far as Osu goes, this is quiet residential street; the tile-floored rooms
as good value as you’ll find. Right around have some character even though the furni-
the corner from the Koala supermarket, and ture is old.
behind the art gallery, are several small, clean Paloma Hotel (Map p338; % 228700; paloma@
and modern rooms. africaonline.com.gh; Ring Rd Central; s/d US$50/70; pi)
Niagara Plus Hotel (Map p336; %772428; 14th Lane; Part of a popular complex that includes a res-
s/d US$50/66; pa) This friendly hotel is down taurant (see p340), courtyard café and bar
a quiet lane about 200m from Cantonments (Champs Sports Bar; p340), the hotel has at-
Rd. Rooms are large and comfortable in this tractive, tastefully decorated rooms.
especially attractive whitewashed villa with a
cobblestone courtyard. EATING
Penta Hotel (Map p336; %774529; Cantonment Rd; Accra has the best choice of restaurants in
s/d US$60/70; pa) This hotel in the heart of the country, and the food will seem like haute
Osu craziness is professionally run though cuisine if you’re returning to the city after
at the expense of warmth or character. The time spent elsewhere in Ghana. Osu is China
small, modern rooms aren’t especially good Town, Little Italy and your mall food court
value. Tycoon restaurant and Hemingway’s rolled into one long clogged road.
Bar attached. If you’re self-catering, the supermarkets in
Frankie’s Hotel (Map p336; %773567; www.frankies Osu are best, especially Koala Supermarket (Map
ghana.com; Cantonments Rd; s/d US$65/85; pai) p336; Cantonments Rd), just off Danquah Circle at
Above the excellent eatery of the same name, the top of Cantonments Rd.
Frankie’s has little atmosphere though every-
thing is immaculate, including the basic, Adabraka
modern rooms. Orangery (Map p338; Farrar Ave; mains US$2.70-8) The
Orangery is a pretty-looking place specialis-
Asylum Down & North Ridge ing in sweet and savoury pancakes, muffins,
Korkdam Hotel (Map p338; %226797; korkdam@ waffles and crepes. Nonbreakfast specialities
africaonline; 2nd Mango Tree Ave, Asylum Down; s/d with fan include moussaka (US$5) and seafood bouil-
US$13/20, r with air-con US$27; p) Only a thin wall labaisse (US$8).
 340 A CC R A • • D r i n k i n g lonelyplanet.com

Choos Eatery (Map p338; 2nd fl, Trust Bldg, Farrar Ave; looks if you’re dressed for tro-tros (minibuses
mains US$3.30) Choos features an open-air din- or pick-ups). A more casual cigar lounge and
ing area that gets a cool breeze, and a large sushi bar is attached.
selection of Ghanaian dishes and burgers
(US$2.20). Asylum Down & North Ridge
Edvy Restaurant (Map p338; Barnes Rd; mains US$3.30; Le Petit Paris (Map p338; Kanda High Rd; croissants US$1.30;
h9am-4pm) For a postmuseum bite, sit at one a) An excellent spot for a morning coffee
of the trellis-covered tables in the grounds of and croissant, Le Petit Paris is a simple bak-
the National Museum. The menu is a small ery selling excellent baked goods. Grab an
selection of Ghanaian basics. espresso for a nice sit-down breakfast.
White Bell (Map p338; Farrar Ave; mains US$3.80) The Spicy Chicken (Map p338; Samora Machel Rd, Asylum
White Bell’s 2nd-floor dining area catches Down; mains US$3) Fast food and fried chicken.
some cooling breezes and is deservedly popu- Paloma Restaurant (Map p338; Ring Rd Central; mains
GHANA

lar. Serves burgers, sandwiches and chicken US$5.50; a) Part of the hotel and bar complex,
and rice dishes. Music and dancing in the the Paloma serves a variety of food, including
evening. pizzas, Lebanese and Ghanaian food, and has
a garden bar and restaurant area.
Osu
Osu Food Court (Map p336; Cantonments Rd; a) A mini DRINKING
mall with Nando’s (a South African chain Most drinking spots in Accra are nothing
doing spicy Portuguese-style chicken), a cof- more than a few plastic tables and a Star beer
fee shop and bakery, a pizza joint and a couple sign; Osu has the highest concentration.
of fried-chicken places. Nourish Lab Smoothy’s (Map p336; 3rd Lane; smoothies
Frankie’s (Map p336; Cantonments Rd; mains US$3.30- US$2.20; h8am-10pm) These refreshing drinks,
6.50; a) An Accra institution, the upstairs a combination of fruit and soft yogurt, are
restaurant serves burgers, pizzas and fried practically addictive because of the oppres-
chicken, as well as a selection of salads, ba- sive heat. Also serves sandwich wraps and
guettes and sandwiches. salads.
Buku (Map p336; 10th Lane; mains US$3.80-10) Ghana- Osekan (Map p338; High St) Spend a sunset nurs-
ian, Nigerian, Togolese and Senegalese spe- ing a cold Star at one of Osekan’s cliffside
cials are lovingly prepared at Buku, where tables and you’ll probably agree there’s no bet-
the stylish 2nd-floor open-air dining area is ter place in Accra for a drink. Walk through
reason alone for coming. the large, empty lot, down the steep steps to
Haveli (Map p336; 18th La; mains US$5.50-9; a) the bar.
There’s no bells and whistles and in fact little Champs Sports Bar (Map p338; Ring Rd Central; a)
decoration at this friendly Indian restaurant Part of the Paloma Hotel complex, this expat-
in the heart of Osu. It has a big menu serving friendly pub beams in sports from abroad.
Indian standards. Thursday is quiz night, Friday is karaoke night,
Dynasty Restaurant (Map p336; %775496; Canton- Saturday is live-music night and Sunday movie
ments Rd; mains US$6-12; a) A fancy place as far as night. Also serves Mexican food.
Accra restaurants go, the Dynasty specialises Bywel Bar (Map p336; Cantonments Rd, Osu) Live
in Peking cuisine. Dim sum every Sunday music Thursday and Saturday nights trans-
afternoon. forms this cool hang-out at the southern end
Mama Mia’s (Map p336; %264151; 7th Lane; pizza of Cantonments Rd into a fun party.
US$7-10) Expats swear by the thin-crusted, Ryan’s Irish Pub (Map p336; Osu; a) More Irish
wood-oven-cooked pizza here. The pleasant pub than an Irish pub, this large green-and-
outdoor garden dining area makes everything yellow colonial building in the south of Osu
taste better. Spaghetti and kid-friendly chicken serves draught Guinness and hearty food. Live
fingers also served. music on weekends.
Monsoon (Map p336; % 782307; Oxford St; Venus Cocktail Bar (Map p336; 11th Lane, Osu) This
mains US$11; a) Incongruously located above spot with a nice little bamboo bar, attached to
a fast-food court, Monsoon is Accra’s most the Byblos Hotel, is popular with Peace Corps
upscale restaurant. The menu includes inter- types and other long-term volunteers.
esting items like warthog filet (US$13) and Duncan’s Bar (Map p336; 3rd Lane, Osu) Nothing
crocodile tail (US$14). You may get snooty more than a few plastic tables out on the
lonelyplanet.com A CC R A • • E n t e r t a i n m e n t 341

street, Duncan’s is nevertheless a popular coffins are fashioned in the shape of lobsters,
drinking spot with locals. Mercedes, guns, aeroplanes – whatever is
meaningful for the client.
ENTERTAINMENT
Accra is Ghana’s biggest city and the birth- GETTING THERE & AWAY
place of highlife, hiplife and other hybrid Air
music genres, so it’s not surprising there’s Kotoka international airport, 5km from the city
a lively club scene. The action rarely starts centre, is served by a number of major airlines
before 10pm or 11pm. and several small private regional carriers.
Jazz Tone (Map p336; Third Close, Airport Residential Area) For more information, see p353.
A popular place with good live jazz music.
Indigo (Map p336; Ring Rd East, Osu) Near Danquah Bus & Tro-tro
Circle, this stylish place is housed in an old em- There are two VanefSTC bus stations in Accra.
The main VanefSTC bus station (Map p336; %227373)

GHANA
bassy building and attracts Accra’s trendsetters.
Friday and Saturday are the best nights. is just east of Lamptey Circle and serves des-
Macumba (Map p336; Ring Rd East, Osu) One of Ac- tinations to the west and north. Buses leave
cra’s nightlife institutions, Macumba is just off hourly from early morning to early evening
Danquah Circle and is popular with European for both Kumasi (ordinary/luxury US$5/7,
discophiles. four hours) and Takoradi (US$4.20/5.50,
Bass Line (Map p338; Ring Rd Central, North Ridge) four hours), and four times a day to Cape
Another good hip jazz club, the Bass Line, Coast (US$2.70/4.20, three hours) and Tamale
just west of Kanda High Rd, gets smoky and (US$10/16, 12 hours). There are fewer trips
stays open late. on all routes on Sundays.
Vienna City Entertainment Complex (Map p338; The second, smaller VanefSTC bus sta-
Kwame Nkrumah Ave, Adabraka) A massive bar, game tion (Map p338) is next to Tudu Station, at
room and club in the heart of Adabraka near the northern end of Makola Market. From
Nkrumah Circle. there buses head east, serving Ho (US$4.40,
four hours, 3pm), Hohoe (ordinary/luxury
SHOPPING US$3.30/5.50, 3½ hours) and Aflao (US$5,
Centre for National Culture (Arts Centre; Map p338; 4½ hours, four times a day), on the Togo
%664099; 28th February Rd; h9am-5pm) A warren of border. Buses leaving from this station are
stalls selling arts and crafts and known simply generally much more unreliable and may leave
as the Arts Centre, this is the place to shop in hours after their scheduled departure time or
Accra and the most visited site in the country. simply not at all.
The level of aggressive hassling may make you Private buses and tro-tros leave from four
want to keep your cedis in your pocket but if main motor parks. Those for Cape Coast, Ta-
you have the patience and wherewithal, you koradi and other destinations to the west leave
can come away with good-quality handicrafts from Kaneshie motor park (Map p336). Neop-
from all over Ghana. lan motor park (Map p338), 250m west of Nk-
Woodin Boutique (Map p336; Cantonments Rd, Osu) A rumah Circle, has buses to north points such
chic and modern fabric shop. as Kumasi and Tamale. From Tema station
Loom (Map p338; %224746; 117 Kwame Nkrumah Ave) (Map p338), east of Makola market, tro-tros
This place, 200m south of Nkrumah Circle, leave for Tema and Aburi. From the chaotic
sells moderately to expensively priced paint- Tudu station (Map p338), at the northeast
ings as well as woodcarvings, fabrics and corner of Makola Market, tro-tros leave for
statues. destinations to the east.
The Trade Fair Centre (Map p336; off Burma Camp Rd,
La) has several stores selling high-quality goods Train
at fixed prices, or try Aid to Artisans Ghana (ATAG; For details, see p355.
Map p336; %771325; atag@ataggh.com; Trade Fair Centre,
off Burma Camp Rd, La; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm GETTING AROUND
Sat), an NGO that offers practical assistance to Depending on your negotiating abilities and
Ghanaian artisans for crafts and furniture. patience, the fare from the airport into the city
Around the Tema road in Teshie are sev- centre can range from US$2.20 to US$7.50.
eral coffin workshops, where trippy-looking Anything under US$4.40 is fair.
 342 T H E C OA S T • • K o k r o b i t e lonelyplanet.com

Line taxis and tro-tros travel on fixed runs Tro-tros (US$0.60, 45 minutes) to Kokrobite
from major landmarks or between major go from the western end of Kaneshie motor
circles, such as Danquah, 37 and Nkrumah park (Donsoman Station) in Accra. Depend-
(usually just called ‘Circle’). Fares are fixed ing on your ability to negotiate, a taxi from
and are typically about US$0.10. Accra will cost from US$5.50 to US$11.
Taking taxis in Accra is convenient but
since there are no meters the unavoidable ANOMABU
haggling can get tiring. Any ride within the %042
city shouldn’t cost more than US$1.10. Rates As far as tourists are concerned, Anomabu
rise at night. means an excellent resort on a beautiful beach.
However, residents of this very unpicturesque,

THE COAST cramped fishing village about 18km northeast

of Cape Coast live in fairly makeshift squalor.
GHANA

Fort William, on the seafront in the town centre,

KOKROBITE was built by the British in 1753 and is now an
%027 unphotographable prison.
Many travellers looking for a little R&R from The Anomabu Beach Resort (%91562; www.an
Accra, only 32km away, or the rigours of omabo.digitafrica.com; camp sites own/rented tent US$4/13,
travel elsewhere in the country swear by the hut with/without air-con US$38/20; p) is the per-
long stretch of white sand and the laid-back fect weekend getaway from Accra. One of
backpacker/Rasta vibe at Kokrobite. the few places in Ghana to embrace low-key
The renowned Academy of African Music native architecture rather than big concrete
& Arts (AAMAL) offers courses (from two eyesores, it has cosy bungalows set within a
hours to three months) in traditional African sandy and shady grove of coconut palms. But
music, drumming, and dance and live per- you’ll spend most of your time lounging on
formances on some weekend afternoons. the beautiful white-sand beach or chowing
It’s not advisable to walk on the beach with down on seafood at the exquisite wood pa-
valuables at night. vilion restaurant. For a bird’s eye view of the
A home away from home for many volun- ocean and town below, Weda Lodge (%806958;
teers and West Africa overlanders, the basic r with fan/air-con US$26/33; p), perched high at
concrete cottages with shared bathrooms at the top of a hill, is a nice alternative to the
Big Milly’s Backyard (Wendy’s; %607998; www.bigmilly beach resort. There are spectacular views from
.com; camping with own/rented tent US$2.70/3.80, s/d with- some of the rooms; it’s off the same road and
out bathroom US$7/11, r US$16; p) are fine, though within walking distance of the Anomabu
most people spend their days and nights at Beach Resort.
the 24-hour bar and restaurant or the beach. From Cape Coast, take a tro-tro (US$0.50,
Drumming, dancing and music happen most 15 minutes) from Kotokuraba motor park
weekend nights. Just across the dirt road from heading for Mankessim and ask to be dropped
Sobamba, Andy’s Akwaaba Lodge (%277261; www at the Ebeneezer Rest Stop for Anomabu town
.akwaabalodge.com; r with/without bathroom US$14/7.50; or at the turn-off for the beach resort, which
p) offers five basic concrete rooms set in is about 2km west of the Ebeneezer. From
a pleasant, small grassy compound where the turn-off, it’s about 500m to the resort
you can also camp with your own tent for gates. The main tro-tro and shared taxi stop
US$3.30. in Anomabu is just east of the Ebeneezer and
A beautiful 20-minute walk along the beach plenty of vehicles run in both directions along
from Big Milly’s – a road goes here as well – the coastal road.
takes you to the seemingly abandoned Kokro-
bite Beach Resort (AAMAL; %380854; s/d US$10/12; CAPE COAST
p) famed for the attached music school. The %042
large rooms are old but the warped wooden The centre of Cape Coast, the former Brit-
floors somehow make it charming. A low-key ish colonial capital, is lined with neglected,
alternative to Big Milly’s and just down the faded buildings. Their ages are irrelevant in
road, friendly Sobamba Coastal Resort (%683084; this now-vibrant town, whose history – Cape
r US$20; p) has four basic tiled rooms with Coast was the largest slave-trading centre in
modern bathrooms. West Africa – only becomes apparent after a
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com T H E C OA S T • • K a k u m N a t i o n a l Pa r k 343

0 600 m
CAPE COAST 0 0.4 miles

To Kakum National Park

A B C (30km); Accra (140km) D
R owe Rd
or At
rn Rd te
ve 7 ah Rd bury
Go Sa
rb
Ko
tok Kotokuraba Post Office
1 ura Market
ba Rd
Rd 4 nti
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As

Sam
Co

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To Pedu Junction (5km) London SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

on
Ab

Ὀ
Coronati
Bridge

erc
oo Cape Coast Castle..........................1 B2

ial
m Crab

Intsin St
Rd Statue
SLEEPING

St
2 Fort
William Mighty Victory ..............................2 A2
Jukw

Oasis Guest House.........................3 B2

Wesley Prospect Lodge...............................4 B1
a Rd

Fort Methodist
n St Cathedral Sammo Guest House......................5 A2
Victoria Jackso
La

GHANA
5
h

8
ula

EATING
Be

2 ATLANTIC Castle Beach Restaurant.................6 B2

OCEAN Oasis Beer Garden & Restaurant..(see 3)
To Elmina Market St
Victoria Rd
(15km) Gulf of
Total Town Victoria 6 Guinea TRANSPORT
Park 3 1
Fosu Station Hall Kotokuraba Motor Park..................7 B1
Lagoon Shared Taxis...................................8 B2

visit to the massive Cape Coast Castle (adult/student Rooms here are small but modern and have
US$7/4, still/video camera fee US$0.50/1.10; h9am-5pm) cable TV. It also has a restaurant (mains US$4.40
in the heart of town, overlooking the sea. to US$6.50) with good views of town.
Extensively restored, the whitewashed castle Castle Beach Restaurant (mains US$3.30) There’s
now houses a superb and moving museum. no more pleasant spot to hang out and grab
A guided tour is offered with your admission some food and drinks than this wooden pa-
and should not be missed; allow a minimum vilion overlooking the beach next to the Cape
of an hour for the tour. Coast Castle.

Sleeping & Eating Getting There & Away

Sammo Guest House (%33242; Jukwa Rd; r US$8) The VanefSTC bus station is in the Goil petrol
Backpackers flock to Sammos, a compound station at Pedu junction, about 5km north-
within walking distance of the city centre, west of the town centre. There are buses twice
to the east. There are simple but clean fan daily to and from Accra (ordinary/luxury
rooms of various size, and a rooftop terrace US$2.70/4.20, three hours) and Takoradi
restaurant popular for the sunset views and (US$1.30, one hour), and once a day to and
social scene. from Kumasi (US$7, four hours).
Oasis Guest House (%35958; ali_d@gmx.da; s/d with- The Kotokuraba motor park, near the mar-
out bathroom US$9/13, bungalows US$22; p) The only ket, has tro-tros serving destinations around
beachfront place in Cape Coast, Oasis has Cape Coast, such as Anomabu (US$0.50, 15
several comfortable rondavels set in a grassy minutes), Kakum National Park (US$0.70, 45
compound. Dancing and drumming classes minutes) and Takoradi (US$1.40, one hour).
are held, and the restaurant (mains US$3.80) Shared taxis to Elmina (US$0.40, 15 minutes)
and bar areas are some of the best places to leave from the station on Commercial St, op-
meet other travellers in town. posite the Cape Café.
Mighty Victory (%30135; gh72@aol.com; Aboom
Cl; s/d with fan US$18/21, r with air-con US$24; p) The KAKUM NATIONAL PARK
Mighty Victory has a tranquil garden out %042
front and is far removed from the noise of Gingerly sliding across a rope bridge at dizzy-
the centre; however, the rooms aren’t a big ing heights is not for the agoraphobic. But for
step up qualitywise from Sammo. an easily earned adrenaline rush, the canopy
Prospect Lodge (%31506; prospectlodge2005@hotmail walkway at this national park (%33278; admission
.com; s/d US$25/35; pa) This new hotel perched US$0.20; h8am-4pm), 33km north of Cape Coast,
on a hill up a steep driveway off Commercial shouldn’t be missed. The park, together with
St is easily the nicest place in the city centre. the neighbouring Assin Attandanso Resource
 344 T H E C OA S T • • E l m i n a lonelyplanet.com

Reserve, protects 357 sq km of diverse and Castle is the Coconut Grove Bridge House (%34557;
dense vegetation and is home to varied wild- Liverpool St; d US$30-50; a). It’s a converted old
life, about 300 species of birds and a stagger- mansion that would blend in on a narrow
ing 600 varieties of butterfly. However, don’t London street; rooms are comfortable and
come expecting great wildlife viewing, since modern. A good restaurant is attached.
you’ll almost certainly be disappointed. As you’d expect, the Castle Restaurant (mains
The 350m rope and cable canopy walkway US$3.80) is within the castle walls and serves
(adult/student US$10/5.50) consists of seven view- Ghanaian dishes – slowly.
ing platforms linked by a circuit of narrow The main taxi and tro-tro station is outside
suspension bridges, along which you sway, the Wesley Methodist Cathedral. From here
30m above the forest floor. you can get tro-tros to Takoradi (US$1.10) or
A guided hike in the park costs US$4.40/ shared taxis (US$0.30, 15 minutes) to Cape
2.20 per hour for adults/students. Guided Coast.
GHANA

night walks need to be arranged in advance;

call %30265 or fax 33042. TAKORADI
Most people visit Kakum as a day trip from %031
Cape Coast, but if you want to stay you can While Takoradi lacks any tourist sights and the
sleep on a tree platform at the camp site near beach is narrow, rocky or nonexistent, there
the park headquarters for US$9 per person; are several good hotels and restaurants, and
equipment hire (sleeping mat, sleeping bag, it’s the transport hub west of Cape Coast.
flashlight and mosquito net) costs US$5.50. Centrally located Super Star Hotel & Restaurant
The Kakum Rainforest Café (mains US$4.40) serves (%23105; Ashanti Rd; r with fan/air-con US$18/24) is an
basic continental breakfast and Ghanaian oasis of air-conditioned calm amid the hot
dishes for lunch. and dusty market area. It has a good modern
From Cape Coast, tro-tros (US$0.70, 45 restaurant on the ground floor. Well located
minutes) that go past the entrance to the park at the edge of central Takoradi, the Taadi Hotel
leave from Kotokuraba station on Governor (%31104; Wiawso Rd; r US$20; pa) stands out
Rowe Rd. It’s a five-minute walk from the because of its friendly and attentive serv-
main road to the park headquarters. Alter- ice. The Raybow International Hotel (%25438;
natively, you could charter a taxi for about raybowhotel@yahoo.com; r US$50; pai ) has
US$16 round trip. chalets with high-quality amenities and the
charming restaurant serves some of the best
ELMINA food in town.
%042 / pop 20,000 The Akroma Plaza Restaurant (Accra Rd; mains
Much more picturesque than Cape Coast, US$3.80), a cross between a large banquet hall
its neighbour 15km to the east, the small and an institutional cafeteria, has a big menu.
town of Elmina is the site of St George’s Castle Seafood is the speciality at Captain Hook’s Bar
(adult/student US$7/4, still/video camera fee US$0.50/1.10; & Restaurant (Africana Roundabout; mains US$7.50-22),
h9am-4.30pm), built by the Portuguese in 1482 probably the best and certainly the most ex-
and the oldest European structure still stand- pensive in Takoradi.
ing in sub-Saharan Africa. It was expanded STC buses leave for Accra several times
when slaves replaced gold as the major ob- a day (ordinary/luxury US$4.20/5.50, four
ject of commerce, and the storerooms were hours), and regularly go to Kumasi (US$7, six
converted into dungeons. It is now a Unesco hours). At the top of Axim Rd, near the traffic
World Heritage Monument. circle, is a tro-tro park serving destinations
Facing St George’s Castle across the lagoon west of Takoradi; for tro-tros to the east head
is the much smaller Fort St Jago (admission US$1.10; to the station north of Market Circle.
h9am-5pm), also a Unesco World Heritage For information on trains between Tako-
Site, built by the Dutch between 1652 and radi and Accra or Kumasi, see p355.
1662 to protect the castle.
Just past the Elmina beach resort, the Almond BUSUA & DIXCOVE
Tree Guesthouse (%37365; www.almond3.com; r from %031
US$30; pa) is highly recommended and has These two fishing villages, only 30km or
several large rooms with wicker furniture. An- so west of Takoradi and an easy drive from
other good choice found opposite St George’s Accra, boast some of the nicest beaches in
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com T H E C E N T R E • • K u m a s i 345

Ghana. Busua, the more developed of the two

villages as far as tourism goes, is blessed with
a long, sandy stretch and water that is ideal
THE CENTRE
for swimming and even a little surfing. There KUMASI
is now even more reason to head down this %051 / pop 1 million
way thanks to the addition of two low-key At one time the capital of the rich and power-
bungalow hang-outs near Dixcove, also the ful Ashanti kingdom, today Kumasi is a bus-
site of the picturesque Fort Metal Cross (admis- tling multiethnic metropolis. Unlike Accra,
sion US$1.10, camera fee US$0.50; h9am-5pm), which Kumasi, which spills over a series of hills,
overlooks the port. has a clearly demarcated centre, ground zero
If you head east along the beach from being an enormous throbbing daily market.
Busua, after about 2km you will reach the The demographic complexity of the city may
settlement of Butre, site of the ruined Fort not be obvious at first glance but the city is a

GHANA
Batenstein. patchwork of ethnic neighbourhoods. Almost
half the residents are Muslims and almost
Sleeping & Eating half speak Hausa, a language originating in
Green Turtle Lodge (%893566; www.greenturtlelodge Nigeria.
.com; camping with own tent US$2.70, dm US$5.50, r with
with/without bathroom US$22/11) The ecologically Information
minded Green Turtle is on a palm-lined beach INTERNET ACCESS
and has spacious, clean bungalows with show- Easylink Internet (h9am-11pm) Across from the Alli-
ers open to the sun and stars. Green Turtle ance Française.
is 10km west of Dixcove near the village of Internet Link (Prempeh II Rd) Just down the street from
Akwidaa. Vic Baboo’s Café.
Ellis Hideout (%290456; www.ellishideout.com; camp- Shell Internet (per hr US$1.20; h7am-9pm) Entrance
ing with own tent US$2.70, dm US$5.50, bungalows US$20) A around back of Shell petrol station.
few minutes from Butre, separated by a short Unic Internet (per hr US$0.70; h7.30am-8.30pm)
canoe ride, this beachfront mini-village has Next to the British Council.
beautifully crafted bungalows and a restaurant
serving up good food. MEDICAL SERVICES
Alaska Beach Club (rondavels with/without bathroom Pharmacies are dotted around town.
US$22/9.50; p) The oddly named Alaska (con- Okomfo Anokye Teaching Hospital (Bantama Rd) A
sidering it’s on a beach and it’s always hot) is large complex near the National Culture Centre; Kumasi’s
the best value in Busua. Each of the simple main public hospital.
round huts and shared bathroom facilities
are kept clean. MONEY
African Rainbow Resort (%32149; www.africanrain All banks listed here change travellers cheques
bow.net; s/d with fan US$45/50, with air-con US$60/65; p) and have ATMs. There are also several forexes
Across the street from the beach, the African for changing cash.
Rainbow has large, clean rooms with balco- Barclays Bank head office (Prempeh II Roundabout)
nies, plus a rooftop bar and a nicely decorated Garden City Forex Bureau (Harper Rd) Has the best
ground-floor restaurant. rates around.
Ghana Commercial Bank (Harper Rd)
Getting There & Away Standard Chartered Bank head office (Prempeh II
Busua and Dixcove are each about 12km from Roundabout)
the main coastal road. There’s no direct trans-
port to and from either Busua or Dixcove; you POST
have to get to Agona junction on the main Main post office (Stewart Ave;h8am-5pm Mon-Fri)
road and then take a tro-tro or shared taxi Opposite the Armed Forces Museum. Poste restante shuts
from there. From Takoradi, regular tro-tros at 4.30pm.
(US$0.70, 45 minutes) leave for Agona junc-
tion. From Agona junction there is frequent TOURIST INFORMATION
transport (US$0.30) to Busua and Dixcove. A Tourist office (%26243; h7am-5pm Mon-Fri) In the
private taxi between Busua and Takoradi will National Cultural Centre complex. Staff can help arrange
cost around US$9. guided tours of the city and surrounding villages.
 346 T H E C E N T R E • • K u m a s i lonelyplanet.com

0 1 km
KUMASI 0 0.5 miles

A B C D

17 INFORMATION

Full
Nse
Barclays Bank...............................1 A2

er R
ne R Easylink Internet..........................2 C6

d
1 d o Rd Garden City Forex Bureau............3 A2
Zong
Lebanon St Ghana Commercial Bank..............4 A2
e A-Life
Internet Link.................................5 B2
Av eh Apimpua Rd Supermarket Train
alk Wesley 18
Station Main Post Office..........................6 A2
W Methodist Walk-over Shell Internet...............................7 A3

Rd
a lm Cathedral Bo
P gy Pass
aw a St
Standard Chartered Bank.............8 A2
Ntomin

20 iR pat
d Bom Tourist Office...........................(see 12)
II Rd

es
d
inc
Rd

16 tR 6 Unic Internet................................9 B2
en Rd
St

Pr

nm te
ew

Sta
mp
r

ar
ve

5 Rd SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Rd
tA
Go

27
Pre

ade Kejetia Market...........................10 C4

ve

wa

Rd e rem
on Adum Aky
Manhyia Palace & Museum.......11 C4
ok
GHANA

i 21
Gug

at
As

9 National Cultural Centre.............12 B4

St
ld Rd
gisb

1 Prempeh II Jubilee Museum.....(see 12)

2 O Bank
Od

8
erg

Prempeh II
um

Roundabout SLEEPING
Rd

3
Rd

Fosua Hotel................................13 B2
Rd
Harper Rd

Church Rd 13 Guestline Lodge.........................14 B2

Mission

Commercial St Hotel Rexmar.............................15 A6

4 14
Basel Rd A-Life Kumasi Catering Rest House......16 A2
Supermarket Nurom Hotel Annex II................17 A1
7 25
0 100 m Sanbra Hotel...............................18 B1
0 0.1 miles Prempeh Rd
EATING
To Pankrono (8km); Moti Mahal Restaurant..............19 B6
Ahwiaa (9km);
Ntonso (24km); Queens Gate Restaurant.............20 B1
Of

Tamale (380km) Sanbra Hotel Restaurant..........(see 18)

ins

3 Vic Baboo's Cafe........................21 A2

oR
d

DRINKING
Suame Vienna City Pub.........................22 B6
Circle
Mam

s TRANSPORT
Pas
By- Asafo Station............................. 23 C5
pong

ern Kejetia Motor Park.....................24 B4

est Presbyterian
W
Rd

We

VanefSTC Bus Station.................25 B3

Ko
Ba

Church To Bonwire (18km)

to
nta

sley

ko

Airport
ma

Rd
an R

11
O
Hi

Rd
du
gh

a
nto
d

d
m

12
oR

A
St

as
iR

ng
d

Kejetia Asawasi
Zo

4 Zoo Circle
Hospital Okomfo Anokye 24
Circle Teaching Hospital
10
Rd Okomfo Anokye Sword
a
m
n ta See Enlargement
Bekwai Ba
Ma
h II Rd

Full

Circle Prempeh II Assembly Hall

xw
er R
Gug

ell
Pin

Prempe
Rd

d
eA

Rd
gisb
nt
Bekwai Rd

ve

me

erg
Govern

Adum 24 February Rd
Rd

Accra Rd
Rd

Asafo
san tewa

23 Roundabout Calvary
5 Church To Accra (255km)
Yaa A

Hudson Rd
Raintre

Harper Rd
e

Stadium
Rd

Cadbury Hall Rd
22

6
Ha

19 Ahodwo
rp

Roundabout
er
Rd

2
Santasi South
Roundabout ern Bypass Rd To Lake Bosumtwi
15 (37km); Cape
To Four Villages Inn (2km) Coast (200km)
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com T H E C E N T R E • • K u m a s i 347

Sights Sanbra Hotel (%31256; Bogyawi Rd; r US$18-30;

The rusting tin roofs of Kejetia Market, often pa) Popular with Ghanaians because of
cited as the largest in West Africa, look like a its restaurant as much as for its clean but basic
circular shantytown. Once you take a breath tiled-floor rooms; some of the more expensive
and step down into its interior, it’s infinitely rooms even have small balconies.
disorienting but also throbbing with life and Kumasi Catering Rest House (%26506; Govern-
commerce. ment Rd; r with fan/air-con US$22/49; p) This charm-
The National Cultural Centre (admission free; ing guesthouse set within shady grounds a
h8am-5pm) is set within spacious grounds off short walk from the centre has huge rooms
Bantama Rd and includes a model Ashanti furnished with ’70s style furniture. Also on
village; craft workshops (hours are irregular); site is a popular restaurant with a large menu
a gallery and crafts shop; the regional library; (mains US$3.80).
the tourism office; and the small but excellent Fosua Hotel (%37382; www.fosuahotel.com; r US$38;
pai) This is the highest quality place

GHANA
Prempeh II Jubilee Museum (adult/student US$1.10/2.20;
h2-5pm Mon, 9am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun), to stay in the city centre. Occupying the top
which is a fascinating introduction to Ashanti floor of the Aseda Complex a block from the
culture and history. VanefSTC station, the rooms here are clean
To get a feel for how a modern Ashanti and comfortable.
ruler lives, visit Manhyia Palace and its museum Four Villages Inn (%22682; www.fourvillages.com;
(adult/student US$2.20/1.10; h9am-noon & 1-5pm) off Old Bekwai Rd; s/d US$60/70; pa) Several kilome-
Antoa Rd, up the hill north from Kejetia tres south of the centre is this bed and break-
Circle. The palace was used by the Ashanti fast, equally popular for its four comfortable
kings until 1974. Among the displays are un- individually designed rooms as for the garden,
nervingly lifelike life-size wax models of the terrace and indoor atrium.
two kings and their mothers and of the most Hotel Rexmar (%29111; rexmar@idngh.com; s/d US$76/
redoubtable queen mother Yaa Asantewaa, 90; pais) Rooms at this low-rise hotel
who led the 1900 revolt against the British and complex south of the Santassi Roundabout
who died in exile in the Seychelles. aren’t exactly luxurious but you do get a pri-
vate porch and access to one of Kumasi’s nicest
Festivals & Events pools. There’s a good restaurant attached.
The Ashanti calendar is divided into nine
cycles of 42 days called Adae, which means Eating & Drinking
‘resting place’. There are two special days of Vic Baboo’s Cafe (Prempeh II Rd; mains US$2.20-5.50;
worship within each Adae when a celebration hfrom 11am; a) Almost every foreigner in
is held and no work is done. The most impor- Kumasi ends up at this café. It has the biggest
tant annual festival is the Odwira festival, which cocktail menu in the city, and Indian, Chinese
marks the last or ninth Adae. The festival fea- and Ghanaian dishes plus sandwiches and
tures lots of drumming, horn-blowing, food pizza, with several veggie options. Last order
offerings and parades of elegantly dressed taken around 9pm.
chiefs. Contact the tourist office for exact Queens Gate Restaurant (Prempeh II Rd; mains
dates. US$4.40) There’s no better spot for people-
watching in Kumasi than the 3rd-floor bal-
Sleeping cony at the Queens Gate. Everything from
Nurom Hotel Annex II (%32324; Nsene Rd; r US$7.50) omelettes to soups, salads, burgers and Gha-
This hotel close to the Kejetia Market and naian dishes are served.
lorry station can be noisy, but it’s clean and Sanbra Hotel Restaurant (Bogyawi Rd; mains US$5;
friendly. a) As far as the centre of Kumasi goes, this
Guestline Lodge (%23351; mahesh161us@yahoo restaurant in the hotel of the same name de-
.com; r US$16-30; ai) There’s no better place serves several Michelin stars. It has a huge
in Kumasi for independent travellers on a menu with European, Chinese, Ghanaian,
budget. The VanefSTC station is a block away, seafood, pizza, lobster, sandwiches etc.
there’s internet access and there’s a relaxing Moti Mahal Restaurant (mains US$4.40-10; a) One
and sunny courtyard. Look first before decid- of the most expensive restaurants in Kumasi,
ing on a room since they vary in quality, size with a large selection of Indian cuisine, Moti
and appeal. Mahal is off the Southern Bypass Rd.
 348 T H E N O R T H • • Ta m a l e Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

Vienna City Pub (Harper Rd; a) Home sweet you can hike, visiting some of the 20 or so
home for many expats who can wash away small villages around its perimeter.
their nostalgia with the pool table, foosball, To spend the night at the lake, try the
darts, Guinness and imported beers. Lake Point Guesthouse (%220054; r US$19), set on
landscaped grounds that lead down to the
Getting There & Away lakeshore a few kilometres from Abonu. The
Kumasi airport is on the northeastern out- spacious and clean rooms are in freestanding
skirts of town, about 5km from the centre. bungalows.
Citilink and Antrak have flights between Ku- Occasional tro-tros run direct to Abonu
masi and Accra twice a day (US$63). (US$1.10) from Asafo motor park in Kumasi.
The huge Kejetia motor park is the city’s
main transport hub, from where you can get
tro-tros to most regional destinations as well THE NORTH
GHANA

as non-VanefSTC buses to Accra and other

points south. In addition, transport for Accra TAMALE
(again), Cape Coast, Takoradi and local des- %071
tinations such as Lake Bosumtwi leave from The fourth-largest city in Ghana and the
Asafo station, east of Asafo Roundabout. major transport hub for the north, Tamale
The VanefSTC bus station is on Prempeh tends to be a stopover for travellers on their
Rd. Buses to Accra (ordinary/luxury US$5/7, way to Mole National Park or overland to
four hours) leave regularly between 3.30am Burkina Faso but the presence of several good-
and 5pm. VanefSTC buses also pass through value hotels makes it a good base to explore
Cape Coast (US$7, four hours) on their way other spots in the area.
to Takoradi (US$7, five hours). There are two
buses a day to Tamale (US$10, eight hours). Sleeping
For details of the train service to Takoradi Catholic Guesthouse (%22265; Gumbihini Rd; r US$7.50;
and Accra, see p355. pa) There are no top sheets, no bath towels
and no luxury, but who needs it at this price?
AROUND KUMASI Rooms surround a leafy garden bar and lounge
Craft Villages area. It’s about 2.5km north of the centre.
Because of their proximity to Kumasi, the TICCS Guesthouse (%22914; www.ticcs.com/res.htm;
craft villages in the region offer a convenient Gumbihini Link Rd; r with fan US$9, s/d with air-con US$13/15;
if also touristy way to experience how some of p) The concrete bungalows are clean and
Ghana’s traditional workshops operate. simple and guests have use of the living room,
There are two villages just on the outskirts TV and kitchen. The recommended Jungle
of Kumasi, on the Mampong road beyond Bar is on the premises.
Suame Roundabout. Pankrono, 8km away, Picorna Hotel (%22672; picornahotelgh@yahoo
is a major pottery centre. One kilometre fur- .com; r US$16; pa) The Picorna is the best
ther is Ahwiaa, known for its woodcarving value in the centre, though the competition
and aggressive sales approach. Ntonso, 15km is far from fierce. Rooms are comfortable but
further, is the centre of adinkra cloth printing. run-down.
Bonwire, 18km northeast of Kumasi, is the Hotel Mariam (%23548; www.mariamhotel.com.ph;
most famous of several nearby villages that Gumbihini Rd; r US$50-80; pa) Easily the nicest
specialise in weaving kente cloth. place to stay in Tamale, the Mariam has mod-
The easiest way to visit these villages is ern, clean and well-kept rooms and there’s a
probably to hire a private taxi for a half day good restaurant. Up the same street as the
(US$8) or full day (US$22). You can also TICCS Guesthouse.
arrange a tour through the Kumasi tourist
office. Eating
Jungle Bar (TICCS Guesthouse, Gumbihini Link Rd) On the
Lake Bosumtwi grounds of the TICCS Guesthouse, the Jungle
For a break from the bustle and choking pol- Bar is on a leafy balcony with an all-wood
lution of Kumasi, take a trip to tranquil Lake bar, cable TV and comfy benches. Serves ke-
Bosumtwi, 38km southeast of Kumasi. A cra- babs, sloppy Joes and hot dogs (US$1.60 to
ter lake, it’s ringed by lush green hills in which US$5.50).
lonelyplanet.com T H E N O R T H • • L a r a b a n g a 349

Swad Fast Food (%23588; Gumbihini Rd; mains era fee US$0.50/2.20), Ghana’s largest at 4660 sq km
US$2.20-9) Don’t be fooled by the basic outdoor and best as far as wildlife viewing goes. It con-
concrete patio; Swad is the place to eat in sists for the most part of flat savannah, with
Tamale. The menu includes ostrich in black gallery forests along the rivers and streams.
pepper sauce (US$5), pizza (US$3.80), lobster There’s one main escarpment, on which the
thermidor (US$9) and takeaway lunchboxes. motel and park headquarters are situated. The
Sparkles Restaurant (mains US$2.70; h8am-8pm) best time for seeing wildlife is during the har-
This restaurant in the back of the National mattan season from January to March, but it’s
Cultural Centre behind the football field has worth a visit any time of the year.
a variety of Ghanaian and Chinese dishes and The park entrance gate is about 4km north
pizza (US$4.40). of the turn-off in Larabanga. The park head-
quarters and the motel are a further 2km into
Getting There & Away the park. Guided walks are offered twice daily,

GHANA
The airport is about 20km north of town, on at 6.30am and 3.30pm, and cost US$1.60 per
the road to Bolgatanga; a private taxi there person and usually last two hours. You are not
costs about US$4.40. Antrak flies between permitted to walk (or drive) in the park unless
Tamale and Accra (US$144, 1¼ hours). you’re accompanied by an armed ranger.
From the VanefSTC station, two buses a day Mole Motel (%22045; camping own/rented tent per
go to Kumasi (US$10, six hours) and four a day person US$2.20/US$4.40, d/chalets US$19/22; s) is a
depart for Accra (ordinary/luxury US$10/16, strictly utilitarian boxy structure that does
12 hours). There’s also a Tuesday service to nothing to take advantage of its location. Run-
Cape Coast and Takoradi (US$11, 12 hours). down rooms and indifferent service aside, the
Tro-tros to Bolgatanga (US$2.50, 2½ hours) views overlooking a waterhole where animals
leave frequently, and OSA buses to Mole Na- gather is worth the sacrifice. Water and elec-
tional Park (US$3.30, four to six hours) leave tricity are sometimes in short supply. Alter-
in theory at 2.30pm but in practice a lot later. natively, you can stay in Larabanga and cycle
Get to the bus station well before its scheduled into the park for the day.
departure time to be sure of a seat. If you’re hungry, you can either chance
the very slow service at the motel restaurant
LARABANGA (meals around US$4.40) or bring your own
Larabanga is more than simply the turn-off provisions.
to Mole National Park. Known mostly for The reserve is 135km west of Tamale; the
its unusual looking mud-and-pole mosque, turn-off to the park is in Larabanga. A daily
originally built in the 15th century (making OSA bus runs from Tamale (US$4.40, four to
it the oldest of its kind in Ghana), it provides six hours), leaving some time after 2.30pm,
a good opportunity to see what traditional and arriving at the park motel around 7pm if
village life is like. all goes well. You really need to get your ticket
Look for the Salia Brothers in a small rep- a day in advance or early the morning of the
lica of the mosque doubling as a tourist office departure to be assured a seat. The same bus
on the eastern outskirts of the village. They’ve returns to Tamale the next day, leaving the park
established a community-based project where at around 5.30am. The alternative is to take
you can hire bicycles and stay overnight in any early-morning bus from Tamale heading
their small but well-maintained guesthouse to Bole or Wa and get off at Larabanga, then
(US$4.40). Or you can sleep on the roof for walk, cycle or try to hitch (very difficult). Leav-
star viewing. Meals are available on request. ing Mole, your options are to take the OSA bus
Daily buses from Tamale to Bole, Wa or from the motel to Tamale or to make your way
Mole National Park stop at Larabanga. to Larabanga, from where there is infrequent
transport in either direction.
MOLE NATIONAL PARK
%0717 WECHIAU COMMUNITY HIPPO
Face-to-face encounters with bus-sized ele- SANCTUARY
phants, plus roving gangs of baboons, wart- One of the more remote ecotourism projects
hogs, water bucks and antelopes – 90 species in the country, this sanctuary along the Black
of mammals in total – are possibilities at this Volta River, which marks the border with Côte
national park (adult/student US$4.40/2.70, still/video cam- d’Ivoire, is home to hippos as well as a variety
 350 T H E E A S T • • A k o s o m b o lonelyplanet.com

of bird species. Basic guesthouse accommo- cruise like Dodi Princess out on the lake on
dation is available and you can arrange canoe Saturday, Sunday and holidays (adult/child
trips to see the hippos; November through US$18/11). Contact the Volta Hotel (%251731)
June is the best time to see these prehistoric- for reservations; look for signs to the hotel
looking beasts. Meals can be prepared if you in town.
bring your own provisions. One of the least expensive though comfort-
Wechiau village is reached by tro-tro able options in town is the Adomi Hotel & Restau-
(US$0.70, one hour, 46km) from the main rant (%20095; r with fan/air-con US$13/22), opposite
lorry park in Wa. The sanctuary is about 20km the suspension bridge. Aylo’s Bay (%20901;
from Wechiau. Transport uncertainties mean www.aylosbay.com; r US$30), near the Volta Bridge,
you really should plan to spend one night at has several small cottages on shady riverside
the sanctuary itself rather than try to do it as frontage as well as a garden bar and restau-
a day trip from Wa. From Tamale, OSA has rant. The Akosombo Continental Hotel (%20091;
GHANA

a daily service to Wa (US$5, eight hours), r US$60; as) has an excellent riverfront loca-
leaving at 5.30am. tion just beyond the suspension bridge, and a
swimming pool.
BOLGATANGA The main transport hub is at Kpong, on the
%072 Accra to Ho road 10km south of Atimpoku.
To truly appreciate Bolga, as it’s known to Regular tro-tros travel between Kpong, At-
locals, you probably have to leave Bolga for impoku and Akosombo. From Accra, tro-tros
the surrounding villages. It’s the capital of for Kpong/Akosombo (US$3.30) leave from
the Upper East Region and the major town Tudu station.
between Tamale and the border with Burkina
Faso. WLI (AGUMATSA) FALLS
The Tienyine Hotel (%22355; Starlet 91 St; r US$26; These spectacular falls, about 20km east of
a) bungalows are the most modern rooms Hohoe, are within the Agumatsa Wildlife
in Bolga and there’s a restaurant (mains Sanctuary. At the Wildlife Office in Wli (pro-
US$3.30) attached, though service is glacial. nounced vlee) village, you pay a fee (adult/
Another option nearby is the large compound student US$3.60/1.80, camera fee US$0.30);
of the Sand Gardens Hotel (%23464; r with fan US$14, a guide is optional but not needed since it’s
s/d with air-con US$16/25; a), part bar, part restau- fairly impossible to lose your way. Wli is an
rant, and sometimes loud. easy day trip from Hohoe, but if you want to
Tro-tros to Tamale (US$2.50, 2½ hours) stay overnight, the German-owned Waterfall
leave from the motor park on Zuarungu Rd. Lodge (%0935-20057; www.ghanacamping.com; r US$12)
From the VanefSTC station on Tamale Rd is only a few hundred metres from the Wild-
buses go to Kumasi (US$7.50, six hours) and life Office. There are only a few nice, modern
Accra (US$16, 15 hours). Minibuses and tro- rooms so do your best to make a reservation
tros to Paga (US$0.70, 40 minutes) on the in advance.
Burkina Faso border leave from a station one Regular tro-tros (US$0.50, 40 minutes) and
block east of the post office. shared taxis (US$0.50, 25 minutes) make the
scenic run between Wli and Hohoe through-

THE EAST out the day. If you’re heading for Togo, the
Ghanaian border post is on the eastern side
of Wli.
AKOSOMBO
%0251
Once a boom town housing thousands of
workers building the dam that now holds back
GHANA DIRECTORY
the world’s largest artificial lake, known as ACCOMMODATION
Lake Volta, today Akosombo deserves a visit In general, accommodation in Ghana is not
only to take in this engineering marvel, prefer- especially good value; it’s better suited to
ably from the vantage of a canoe or ferry on people on an expense account. In Accra es-
the Volta River. pecially, rooms under US$40 are generally
The Volta River Authority arranges tours not well kept or maintained and bring a bit
of the dam or you can take a half-day booze of sticker shock for those reasonably expect-
lonelyplanet.com G HA N A D I R E C T O R Y • • A c t i v i t i e s 351

ing more for their money. Most rates around BUSINESS HOURS
the country already include 15% tax (12.5% Most stores are open between 9am and 6pm
VAT and 2.5% NHIL) and many midrange Monday to Friday, with some from 9am to
and top-end hotels include breakfast, though 2pm on Saturday. Very few stores are open
this is usually a very basic coffee, eggs and on Sunday.
toast. Banks are generally open daily from 8am to
Despite the heat, fan-cooled rooms are 3pm, and are closed on weekends. Most forex
sometimes preferable since some air-con- bureaus are open limited hours on Saturday.
ditioners are so loud as to make sleep near Major hotels have forex facilities open daily.
impossible. Unfortunately, owners and staff Most restaurants are open for breakfast,
are usually indifferent and aren’t in the habit lunch and dinner from the early morning to
of going out of their way to make your stay around 8pm or 9pm; hotel restaurants in Accra
more comfortable. and restaurants in Osu stay open later.

GHANA
Off the tourist trail there are few hotels and
guesthouses, but it’s usually possible to arrange EMBASSIES & CONSULATES
to sleep on a floor or roof somewhere. Most of Ghana Embassies & Consulates
the ecotourism projects offer overnight stays Ghana has embassies in Benin, Burkina Faso,
in simple guesthouses or homestays. Camping Côte d’Ivoire, Guinea, Mali, Nigeria, Sierra
is a possibility at national parks and reserves. Leone and Togo. For details, see the relevant
A few of the coastal forts offer extremely basic country chapter. Elsewhere, diplomatic mis-
guesthouse accommodation. sions include the following:
Australia (%02-9283 2961; Ste 1404, Level 14, 370 Pitt
ACTIVITIES St, Sydney 2000)
With its long coastline, one of the main things Canada (%613-236 0871; 1 Clemow Ave, The Glebe,
to do in Ghana is head to the beach where Ottawa, Ont KLS 2A)
you can surf and boogie-board or simply do France (%01 71 10 14 02; 8 Villa Said, 75116 Paris)
nothing at all, which should be considered Germany (%0228-35 20 01; Rheinalle 58, 53173 Bonn)
an activity. However, ask before swimming Japan (%03-409 3861; Azabu, PO Box 16, Tokyo)
since currents and undertow make condi- Netherlands (%70-362 5371; Molenstraat 53, 2513
tions unsafe. Good hiking can be found in The Hague)
the Volta Region around Hohoe in the east UK (%020-8342 8686; 104 Highgate Hill, London N6 5HE)
of the country and in the Tongo Hills near USA Consulate (%212-832 1300; 19 East 47th St, New
Bolgatanga (opposite) in the north. For drum- York, NY 10017); Embassy (%202-686 4520; 3512
ming and dancing lessons, contact Big Milly’s International Dr NW, Washington, DC 20008)
(p342) or the Academy of African Music &
Arts (AAMAL; p342) in Kokrobite, the Oasis Embassies & Consulates in Ghana
Guest House (p343) in Cape Coast, or almost All embassies and consulates listed are in
any of the community-based tourism projects Accra (area code %021). Most are open from
around the country. 8.30am to 3.30pm Monday through Friday.

PRACTICALITIES

The national Daily Graphic is probably the best of the English-language newspapers available,
with reasonably good coverage of Ghanaian, African and international news.

GTV is the national channel, available throughout the country. In Accra and Kumasi, you
can also get TV3, which is very similar. GTV has nightly news in English at 7pm, and shows a
selection of educational programmes, slapstick comedy shows (in Twi) and American soaps.
On Sunday, sermons and gospel singing take centre stage. DSTV is the main satellite channel.

Most radio programmes are at least partly in English. Talk radio rules here, and the shows
make fascinating listening. The national radio (FM 95.7) has world news in English on the
hour, every hour.

Most electrical outlets are UK-style, with three square prongs, though adapters are easy to
find.
 352 G HA N A D I R E C T O R Y • • Fe s t i v a l s & E v e n t s lonelyplanet.com

Australia (Map p336; %777080; www.ghana.embassy Easter March/April

.gov.au; 2 Second Rangoon Close, Catonments) Australian Labour Day 1 May
High Commission. Africa Day 25 May
Benin (Map p336; %774860; Switchback Lane, Republic Day 1 July
Cantonments) Farmers’ Day 1st Friday in December
Burkina Faso (Map p338; %221988; 2nd Mango Tree Christmas Day 25 December
Ave, Asylum Down; h8am-2pm Mon-Fri) Boxing Day 26 December
Canada (Map p336; %228555; fax 773792; 46 Inde-
pendence Ave, Sankara interchange) INTERNET ACCESS
Côte d’Ivoire (%774611; 9 18th Lane, Osu; h9am- There are internet cafés in all major towns.
2.30pm Mon-Thu) Connection speeds vary but not surprisingly
Denmark (%226972; 67 Isert Rd, 8th Ave Extension) they tend to be slower outside the larger urban
Near World Bank office. areas. Average rates per hour are US$0.70 to
GHANA

France (Map p336; %228571; www.ambafrance-gh.org; US$1.10.

12th Rd, Kanda) Off Liberation Ave.
Germany (Map p338; %221311; geremb@ghana MONEY
.com; 6 Ridge Rd, North Ridge) The unit of currency is the cedi (C). There are
Japan (Map p336; %775616; fax 775951; 8 Josef Broz C1000, C2000, C5000, C10,000 and C20,000
Tito Ave, Cantonments) notes, as well as C100, C200, C250 and C500
Liberia (%775641; Odoikwao St, Airport Residential Area) coins.
Mali (Map p338; %775160; Liberia Rd, West Ridge) The best currencies to bring are US dollars,
Netherlands (Map p336; %231991; nlgovacc@ncs UK pounds or euros. Barclays and Stand-
.com.gh; 89 Liberation Ave, Sankara Circle) ard Chartered Banks exchange cash and
Nigeria (Map p336; %776158; fax 774395; 5 Josef Broz well-recognised brands of travellers cheques
Tito Ave, Cantonments) without a commission.
Togo (Map p336; %777950; Togo House, Cantonments Foreign-exchange (forex) bureaus are dot-
Circle, Cantonments) ted around most major towns, though there
UK (Map p336; %221665; fax 221745; 1 Osu Link, are fewer in the north. They usually offer a
Ringway Estate) British High Commission. slightly better rate than the banks and stay
USA (Map p336; %776601; www.usembassy.org.gh; cnr open later. However, they don’t generally
10th La & 3rd St, Osu) change travellers cheques.
Most Barclays and Standard Chartered
FESTIVALS & EVENTS Banks throughout the country have ATMs
Ghana observes the Muslim festivals of Eid al- where you can get a cash advance in cedis
Fitr, at the end of Ramadan, and Eid al-Adha; (up to about C800,000 or US$80) with Visa
both are determined by the lunar calendar. or MasterCard.
Ghana has colourful festivals and events, Credit cards, generally only Visa and Mas-
including Cape Coast’s Fetu Afahye Festival terCard, are accepted by major hotels and
(first Saturday of September), Elmina’s Bakatue travel agencies.
Festival (first Tuesday in July), the Fire Festival
of the Dagomba people in Tamale and Yendi TELEPHONE
(dates vary according to the Muslim calendar), Every town and city has plenty of private
the Feko festival in Sandema near Navrongo (17 ‘communication centres’ where you can
to 18 December) and various year-round Akan make national and international calls. Lit-
celebrations in Kumasi. Ghana’s most famous tle streetside tables festooned with signs an-
festival – Aboakyer (Deer Hunt) – is celebrated nouncing which cell-phone providers they
in Winneba on the first weekend in May. Ac- can call are everywhere. These generally cost
cra’s tourist office sells an informative booklet from US$0.20 to US$0.30 per minute. Cell
on Ghana’s festivals. Panafest is celebrated an- phones are becoming more and more com-
nually in Cape Coast, Accra and Kumasi. mon and are the best way to communicate
within the country.
HOLIDAYS
Public holidays include the following: TOURIST INFORMATION
New Year’s Day 1 January The website of the Ghana Tourist Board (www.ghana
Independence Day 6 March tourism.gov.gh) has some useful information.
lonelyplanet.com T R A N S P O R T I N G HA N A • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 353

Within Ghana, the tourist board has a net-

work of offices in the major regional capi-
tals. The amount of information available is
TRANSPORT IN GHANA
limited. Opening hours tend to be somewhat GETTING THERE & AWAY
erratic and most offices are closed on Saturday Air
and Sunday. Ghana’s only international airport is Kotaka
The Nature Conservation Research Centre (NCRC; international airport in Accra. At the time of
www.ncrc-ghana.org), one of the main players be- research, the national carrier Ghana Interna-
hind the country’s burgeoning community- tional Airways only had flights into London.
run tourism efforts, has information on all North American Airlines has one nonstop
of its projects. flight a week between New York City and
Accra.
VISAS Airlines servicing Ghana include the

GHANA
Everyone except nationals of Ecowas (Eco- following:
nomic Community of West African States) Afriqiyah Airways (8U; %252465) Flights to Europe
countries needs a visa to enter the country, with stopover in Tripoli, Libya; office at Accra airport.
which until recently could only be obtained Air Ivoire (VU; %241461) Hub: Abidjan. Office at Accra
before arriving in Ghana. Now, however, na- airport.
tionals of most countries can receive a tourist Alitalia (AZ; Map p338; %239315; Ring Rd Central,
visa on arrival at the Kotaka airport in Accra Asylum Down, Accra) Hub: Rome.
for US$100, though it’s not a convenient American Airlines (www.aa.com)
option if you’re arriving late at night. Visas Antrak (Map p336; %769458; Antrak House, Danquah
allow a stay of 60 days and can be single or Circle, Osu, Accra) Domestic airline that also flies to Ouaga-
multiple entry. dougou, (Burkina Faso) and Lagos (Nigeria).
You can get visas in many countries in British Airways (BA; Map p338; %240386; Kojo
West Africa or elsewhere. Visa applications Thompson Rd, Adabraka, Accra) Hub: London Heathrow.
usually take three days to process, and four EgyptAir (MS; %773537; Ring Rd East, Osu, Accra)
photos are required. You often also need an Hub: Cairo.
onward ticket. In the UK, single-/multiple- Emirates (EK;%238921; Meridian House, Ring Rd
entry visas cost UK£30/40. In the USA, they Central, Accra) Hub: Dubai. Four flights a week connecting
cost US$50/80. Accra and Dubai with a stopover in Lagos.
If necessary, visas can be extended at the Ghana International Airways (GH; %221000; www
Immigration Office (%021-221667 ext 215) in Accra .fly-ghana.com; Silver Star Tower, Airport City, PMB 78, Ko-
near the Sankara interchange. Applications toka International Airport) Hub: Accra. At time of research
are accepted between 8.30am and noon Mon- Ghana International only flew to London.
day to Friday. You need two photos, a letter Ivory Coast Airways Office at Accra airport.
stating why you need an extension and an Kenya Airways (KQ; %444301) Hub: Nairobi. Office at
onward ticket out of Ghana. Your passport is Accra airport.
retained for the two weeks it takes to process KLM-Royal Dutch Airlines (KL; Map p336; %224020;
the application. Ring Rd Central, Accra) Hub: Amsterdam.
Lufthansa Airlines (LH; %243893; Fidelity House,
Visas for Onward Travel Accra) Hub: Frankfurt. Off Ring Rd Central.
Visas for the following countries are available Slok Air International (%3166206; No 3 Aviation
from embassies in Accra (see p351): Rd, Accra) Flies to Monrovia (Liberia), Freetown (Sierra
Benin Visas cost US$25/50 for one-/three-month multiple Leone), Banjul (The Gambia) and Dakar (Senegal); office
entry and are issued within 48 hours. at the airport.
Burkina Faso Visas cost US$40 (not payable in cedis) for South African Airways (SA; Map p338; %230722;
three months and are issued within 24 hours; three photos Ring Rd Central, Asylum Down, Accra) Hub: Johannesburg.
required. Virgin Nigeria (VK; Map p336; %771700; www.virgin
Côte d’Ivoire Month-long visas costs US$4 (payable in nigeria.com; La Palm Royal Beach Hotel, Accra) Hub: Lagos.
cedis) for Australians and Americans or US$10 for British
nationals; issued in 48 hours; need two photos. Land
Togo Visas cost US$20 cash (payable in dollars only) for BURKINA FASO
multiple entry and are issued the same day if you apply in Between Accra and Ouagadougou, the usual
the morning; three photos required. route is via Kumasi, Tamale, Bolgatanga,
 354 T R A N S P O R T I N G HA N A • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d lonelyplanet.com

Paga and Pô. A direct VanefSTC bus runs to ping at the town of Kete-Krachi and a few
Ouagadougou from Accra (US$29, 24 hours) villages along the way. In theory it leaves the
once daily Monday to Saturday and from Ku- port at Akosombo at 4pm on Monday and
masi (US$21, 20 hours) every Wednesday arrives in Yeji on Wednesday morning; in
evening; most people do the trip in stages. practice the departure and arrival times are
From Bolgatanga, there are frequent tro-tros more fluid. The southbound service leaves
to the border at Paga (US$1.10, 40 minutes), Yeji around 4pm on Wednesday and arrives
from where you can get onward transport to in Akosombo on Friday morning. Tickets cost
Pô and Ouagadougou. US$11/5.50 in 1st/2nd class, and food and
You can also enter Burkina Faso from the drinks are available on board. If you want one
northwest corner of Ghana, crossing between of the two 1st-class cabins (recommended),
Tumu and Léo or from Hamale or Lawra and you have to reserve at least two weeks in ad-
onto Bobo-Dioulasso. You can reach Tumu vance; call %0251-20686 in Akosombo to
GHANA

most easily from Bolgatanga, Hamale from make a booking.

Bolgatanga or Wa, and Lawra from Wa.
Bus
CÔTE D’IVOIRE The best bus service in the country is provided
VanefSTC buses run between Accra and by VanefSTC, the old State Transport Cor-
Abidjan (US$12, 12 hours) via Elubo once poration now owned by Greyhound. There
daily Monday to Friday, leaving in the early are two classes of bus: ordinary and luxury.
morning. The Ecowas Express, run by STIF, a The latter have air-con and are newer and
company from Côte d’Ivoire, does three runs more comfortable. Compared to other trans-
a week between Neoplan motor park in Accra port in the region it’s fairly reliable, though
and Abidjan. From Takoradi, Peugeot bush late departures are all too common. Expect
taxis make a daily trip to Abidjan. significant delays leaving from the Tudu sta-
Another border crossing lies between Bole tion in Accra and on any of the less regular
and Bouna, though this involves a chartered routes. Buses link the major centres, including
canoe trip across the Black Volta River. Accra, Kumasi, Takoradi, Cape Coast, Tamale
and Bolgatanga. Other operators, which may
TOGO have the only buses on some routes (such as
Tro-tros and buses regularly ply the coastal between Tamale and Mole National Park),
road between Accra and Aflao (all about include OSA, Kingdom Transport Services
US$3.30, three hours). VanefSTC buses (KTS), City Express and GPRTU. The buses
leave from the smaller Tudu bus station in tend to be older and less comfortable.
Accra (US$5, four times a day). The border
at Aflao is open from 6am to 10pm daily but Taxis
you should cross between 9am and 5pm if Within towns and on some shorter routes be-
you need a Togolese visa at the border. Public tween towns, shared taxis (called passenger or
transport from Ghana doesn’t cross the bor- line taxis) are the usual form of transport. Line
der, which is only 2km from central Lomé. taxis run on fixed routes, along which they
stop to pick up and drop off passengers.
GETTING AROUND Private or ‘dropping’ taxis don’t have me-
Air ters and rates are negotiable. It’s best to ask
Two domestic airlines, Citylink (%312001; www a local in advance for the average cost be-
.citylink.com.gh) and Antrak (Accra Map p336; %21-765337; tween two points. Taxis can be chartered for
Antrak House, Danquah Circle, Osu; Kumasi %51-41296; Tamale an agreed period of time from one hour to a
%71-91075) operate in Ghana. Both have two day for a negotiable fee.
flights daily between Accra and Kumasi (US$60
to US$80, 45 minutes), and Antrak has flights Tro-tros
on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday between Tro-tro is a catch-all category that embraces
Accra and Tamale (US$144, 1½ hours). any form of transport that’s not a bus or taxi.
They cover all major and many minor routes
Boat and, without them, Ghana would come to a
A passenger boat, the Yapei Queen, runs along standstill. They don’t work to a set timetable,
Lake Volta between Akosombo and Yeji, stop- but leave when full. You can pick them up any-
 © Lonely Planet Publications
lonelyplanet.com T R A N S P O R T I N G HA N A • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d 355

where along a route and they’re extremely cheap (US$4.40/2.70 in 1st/2nd class, about 12
(about US$0.01 per kilometre). Most fares are hours) and a nightly service between Accra
under a dollar or two but frequently change and Takoradi, which costs about the same
by small amounts. For long journeys, though, and takes at least 12 hours, but these are re-
buses are more comfortable and safer. ally only for masochists and train enthusi-
asts. However, the line between Kumasi and
Train Takoradi (US$4.40/2.70 in 1st/2nd class) is
Ghana’s railway links Accra, Kumasi and Ta- worth considering. On this line, there are two
koradi but the trains are much slower and trains daily, leaving at 6am and 8.30pm. The
aren’t any cheaper than motorised trans- journey in theory takes eight hours but it’s
port. There are daily passenger services in usually more like 12 in practice, especially on
either direction between Accra and Kumasi the night train.

GHANA

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