Issue 16 August 2016

HAND, POWER & GREEN WOODWORKING TURNING RESTORATION DIY

Clean up
your act
with dust-free
routing

Teach your
saw to cut
straight
• Make a travisher FEATURE:
• Windsor chair repair A Right Royal
• Space-saving machine table Wheelwright

SHAKER HALL SHELF MAKE A LOG STOVE SEVEN DRAWER CHEST

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 Community

41

19
63

In the
August issue...
COMMUNITY POWER WOODWORKING HAND WOODWORKING
14 News & events 5 Seven-drawer Mission chest 13 Insight – veneer techniques
22 Hints, tips & jigs 36 Plans for you – wine bottle 19 Windsor chair repair
storage
41 The bespoke wheelwright 25 Making a travisher
49 Tip-over machine table
52 Woodland ways – log stove 30 Commemorative box
66 Routing extraction
58 Book reviews 63 Kitchen sign design
81 Quick make – postbox
60 Woodworking geometry 69 DIY – window repair
78 Ask the experts 73 Shaker-style wall shelf
88 Next issue
KIT & TOOLS
Woodwork on the web
To find more great projects, tests and techniques like these, 38 Kitted out
visit our fantastic website at: www.woodworkersinstitute.com
55 User report – Record tablesaw

2 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

WWC_16_2_3_CONTENTS_&_LEADER_vsAB.indd 2 20/06/2016 12:47

 Community

Welcome
to the August issue
of Woodworking Crafts
ake a break, and read your favourite magazine.

T August is the traditional month for annual summer

holidays and a chance to relax and escape from the
rigours of work and everyday life.
We have some interesting, and indeed thought provoking,
articles for you to read while you hopefully take things easy.
The Mission-style chest is a challenge and not for
everyone, but it shows how a piece of functional furniture
can be both pleasing to the eye and impressive to boot.
Louise Biggs’ commemorative box tells a story that resonates
with many, at a time when the First World War is being
remembered across the land. There is the story of
a wheelwright who holds the Royal Warrant, as well as hand
made furniture, green woodworking and so much more.
Plenty to get your teeth into, but only once you have had a
good read. There is no rush to make things – that is for the
next month or even the month after that.
About now, I’m going to be taking my own well-earned

73 break, but you can bet it won’t all be lying on a sandy beach
soaking up the sun. I’m never fully off duty – always looking
out for interesting things I can put in the magazine or
inspire me to have a go at something new. Anyway, see
you again after the holidays. Have a safe and relaxing time.

Anthony Bailey, Editor

Email: anthonyb@thegmcgroup.com

30

5
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 Power woo
woodworking

PHOTOGRAPHS BY GMC/ANTHONY BAILEY

What you will n
need:
• Planer thicknesser
• Domino jointer
• Sander

Seven-drawer • Bandsaw
• Tablesaw
• Router table

Mission chest • Biscuiter

• Block
• Mallet
• Fine-tooth saw

Anthony Bailey adds a chest to his • Plane

• Chisel
Mission-style bedroom furniture • Sash
• Deep-throat clamps
his is a substantial and imposing chest of drawers. Unlike a typical • F- and G-cramps

T Georgian or Victorian chest, which would have drawers graduated

in size, with the smallest at the top and the largest at the bottom,
this chest has equal-height drawers apart from the top row. The timber is
• 8 x 50mm Domino components
•'0' and '20' biscuits
• PVA glue
American white oak (Quercus alba). It is finished with a sealer coat and • Cloth
waxed to keep the look as natural as possible. • Protective pads
• Router cutters, including 19mm
Preparation diameter dovetail
This project uses a very large amount of timber and there is wastage because • 1⁄2in collet router + 30mm guidebush
even American oak suffers from splits, shakes and knots. Keep your best boards • 6.4mm groover + arbor and 9.5mm
for matching colour and grain for the drawer fronts, and find good matching straight bit
boards for the top. The back panel, end panels and drawer bottoms are all oak- • Sub-table surface + high fence facing
veneered ply – not authentic but it looks fine and saves on cost and preparation • Screws
time. Study the plans carefully and make up what is a substantial cutting list. ➤

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 Power woodworking

6 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

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 Power woodworking

Cut out all major components

first, especially if they need to be
wide boards – with any luck narrows
can be cut from the waste sections.
Keep component lengths down to
only what is required plus wastage
or you will end up planing boards
bowed from end-to-end down to
less than acceptable thickness!
Overhand plane one face and one
edge and check all boards for square.
The top needs to be made from four
boards, slightly overwidth, as does
the bottom board in the carcass.
All the other boards can then be
thicknessed to width. 2
CARCASS ENDS Using clamps and a strip of MDF
Assemble the ends first as these match to create a curve to mark against
and form sub-assemblies, thus breaking
down the whole procedure for carcass 1
assembly into bite-size pieces. I used The assembled end panel; note the 10mm
Domino components, but you can upstand
mortise and tenon, in which case add
tenon length to the top and bottom a neat fit. Cut the MDF to the measured
rails. Cut the stiles and rails to length. width and to length then biscuit slot
The 10mm oak-veneered MDF panels into the stiles.
butt between both stiles but go up Sand all awkward-to-get-at edges and
behind the top and bottom rails; faces, glue and assemble. Check for
note how the MDF extends 10mm square and leave to dry after cleaning
above the top rails so it can slot into off any excess glue.
the top when that is fitted on.
Firstly, joint the stiles and rails RAILS, BOTTOM BOARD
together using a Domino jointer and
8 x 50mm Dominos; the position of
the joints is important so the inside
2–3 The front and back
carcass rails are now
cut to fit between the carcass ends
of the rails and MDF lie flush together. and Domino-ed using two per joint. 3
The bottom end rail curves are ‘pack

1 Dry assemble and carefully measure

the gap width as it is critical for
cut’ on the bandsaw to a line and then
belt sanded to get a smooth curve. ➤
Pack-cuষng: both lower rails are held
together with double-sided tape

Mistakes, I’ve made a few

Let's face it, no one is perfect, least
of all me! In this case I forgot the ply
A–C The answer, as with mis-slotted biscuit positions, is simply to glue
and plug the wrong holes, in this case with Dominos, then saw off the
projecting part with a fine-tooth saw and trim flat with a plane. Re-joint in the correct
panels went between the end stiles, position and the old plugged holes will be completely hidden and this mistake kept a
and Domino-ed the rail flush with the secret – just between you and me...
inside face of the stiles. Wrong!

A B C
Fiষng Dominos cut in half Cut the waste oø fl ush before planing Almost invisible and strong repair
to make the repair or belt sanding

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 Power woodworking

4–7 Dry assemble and cramp

up in order to measure
accurately the space between the ends
for all the drawer rails. The size should
be consistent throughout. Measure up
for the carcass bottom board; this can
now be cut exactly to size. Dry fit it in
place, mark biscuit positions where it
meets the carcass ends and onto the
front and back rails; note the end slots
must be ‘0’ biscuits to avoid showing
through the end panels. Knock the
assembly apart, then biscuit and glue
the bottom board to the front and
4 5
back rails only.
The carcass dry-assembled in order A narrowed-down Domino is easier
DRY ASSEMBLY to measure up the drawer rails to extract when test assembling

8–9 Now dry assemble the

carcass with rails in place,
using a block and mallet. Get the rails
flush on the front and the back ones
knocked forward to give the correct
gap for the back panel; note that you
will need to cramp across the carcass
middle to allow the dovetails to go in
easily without damage as the carcass
will almost certainly bow a little.

DRAWER SUPPORTS
Measure the gap between the front
and back drawer rails; this should be
consistent. Cut the drawer supports
6 7
to fit this measurement. There are two Making the '0' biscuit slots for the The glued-up carcass boħom and rail;
narrow outer supports and one wide carcass boħom note the block used to keep it square
middle one, except for the small top
drawers where there are two wide
supports with uprights to separate
the drawers; note that these uprights
can be biscuited and glued in the
centre of the supports to make
small sub-assemblies.

10–11 At the same time

measure up for the
two drawer stiles that go between
the small drawers. These are housed
9
exactly as the rails are; if you leave 8
your router table set up these can The back panel allowance – shown on
be quickly machined. A trial assembly of a housing joint the finished piece

12–13 Mark all drawer

supports ready for
Dominos, one slot for each narrow
support and two for the wide ones,
using 6mm-thick Dominos. Make a
marking jig to ensure consistency, then
it won’t matter where each component
goes when it comes to final assembly.
The narrow components will simply
butt-glue against the carcass sides.
All the carcass components, bar the
top itself, have now been cut, jointed
and where appropriate made into
10
sub-assemblies. Everything can now Cuষng a drawer sধle housing

8 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

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 Power woodworking

DOVETAIL HOUSINGS

A B
11 For accurate housings, mark across The tablesaw gives a precise
both back panels template opening
The sধle in situ before sanding
to remove fl uø
A Place both end panels face down
on the bench with the inside faces
upwards. Mark up where the drawer
rails will be, across both end panels;
this will then allow you to accurately
mark out for the housing joints.

B
1
You need a large 19mm-diameter
dovetail router cutter and a big
⁄2in collet router with a 30mm or C
similar guidebush. Make up a housing
The stop screwed to the template
jig using the tablesaw to give a precise
limits the cut length
gap just large enough for the guidebush
to slide through.

12
C–E As always, do a trial cut first
to get the correct depth for
the housing which will be about 7–9mm.
Checking that all the housings fit – The housing slot needs to be either the
carcass rails not present same as the rail width at the front but
deeper at the back to account for the
10mm back panel or, as I did it, the same
slot length but with the dovetails on the D
rail ends cut back by the thickness of the
The finished housing; sanding will
back panel.
remove the fl uø
Machine all slots but note that the top
front rail isn’t housed as it is too close
to the end of the board; this is better
biscuited to help hold it in place.
Now machine the dovetails on the end
of each rail. This is done vertically on the
13
router table using a sub-table surface
Drawer supports are machined using and a high fence facing to stop the
a Domino 'bench hook' components dropping into the cutter
opening. Take your original measured
be knocked apart and all internal or drawer rail length and add the depth
hard-to-access surfaces sanded prior of the dovetail housing x 2 to give the
to assembly. Machine the back panel finished rail length. Cut all rails exactly
rebate with a large straight cutter. to this length bar the top front one,
which is a biscuited butt-fit in between.
GLUE UP Do some test cuts, machine both
This is more than a little stressful so get rail faces and try fitting in a housing
everything ready first. You will need and adjust until it is a good tight fit.
plenty of long sash cramps and several Use a fine saw and chisel to round the
long deep-throat clamps to span the ‘inner’ end, keeping the dovetail angle.
carcass width plus a number of shorter Tap the rail home then, once satisfied E
sash cramps. PVA glue will give the with the fit, machine all rail ends in the
All the housings and Domino joints
best working time as it won’t start same fashion. have been machined
setting too quickly. ➤

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 Power woodworking

14 15 16
The drawer grooves that will hold the Using a sliding sub-base to machine An assembled drawer box ready
front, back and base a wider rebate to have its front planted on

First, glue and cramp the carcass rails

and bottom shelf assembly in place.
Next, glue and fit the front drawer
15–16 Assemble a couple of
drawers, measure the
size of drawer bottom required and
Make sure before you start that the
MDF upstands are square to each other
and mark their positions accurately
rails then the drawer supports and cut out the ply to suit. Sand all drawer onto the underside of the top, then
finally the back drawer rails. components, then glue, assemble clamp on the jig and machine the slots.
Your longest cramps are used to and cramp. The drawer fronts need Try fitting the top and adjust the
hold the carcass together crosswise, to be carefully sized and ‘gapped’ to widths of the slots a fraction if needed.
with the shorter ones pulling the fit in their respective positions in the
drawer support frames together from
front to back. You will almost certainly
require help and plenty of pads to
carcass. Trim each drawer box to fit
its particular position and fix on the
drawer front when the handles are
17 Now sand the top thoroughly
and glue and fit to the top of the
carcass using plenty of clamps to pull it
protect the wood from crushing. fitted in place. The handles must be down hard onto the carcass top. Lightly
Check the whole assembly is square aligned neatly from top to bottom on bevel the edges with a handplane.
and all joints closed properly, then all drawers, apart of course, for the top
carefully remove excess glue using middle one. Screw each front onto its Rubbing strips
only a slightly damp cloth to avoid respective drawer box from the inside. Rubbing strips are glued onto the
stain marks on the oak. underside of the top. This avoids
THE TOP adding them to the general carcass
MAKING DRAWERS Loosen the two projecting tongues assembly, but they are necessary to
The drawers are simply tongue and from the MDF end panels and house prevent the top drawers from simply
grooved construction and will slide them into the top, using either the hanging down at an angle when the
on the drawer supports in the carcass. previous housing jig if it is long drawers are pulled out.
Measure the openings to ensure enough or making up another one
you get the drawer box sizes correct.
The front and back fit within the
sides; add the tongue length x 2 to the
if not. Bear in mind that a 9.5mm
straight cutter will be used to make
a 10mm or thereabouts slot, so either
18 Lastly, sand the entire carcass
exterior, apply a clear sanding
sealer and wax thoroughly. ■
length of the internal front and back the slot in the jig needs to be slightly
measurement in each case. wider or the jig needs to be moved
Machine all parts to width and over between cuts.
thickness. The width, which will be the
height of the drawer, should be a tight
fit in the carcass; it will be trimmed
later. The bases are oak-veneered ply
to be cut to size later.
Cut all solid parts to their respective
lengths and mark them – sides or front
and back – to avoid any confusion.

14 Set up the router table with

a 6.4mm groover on an arbor
and do test cuts for the groove until
you have it exactly right. Machine all
grooves including the drawer bottom
grooves, leaving the groover at the
same height. Now do the tongues;
as the groover is not thick enough,
use a piece of ply or MDF as a
sliding sub-table on one pass to 17 18
increase the effective cut width.
The resultant tongue must be a The completed bare carcass awaiধng A simple but pleasing piece of funcধonal
nice tight fit in the grooves. back panel and drawers furniture

10 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

WWC_16_5_10_SEVEN_DRAWER_CHEST_POW_AB_bdABjr.indd 10 16/06/2016 12:45

 Brushless
Drill Driver
DF332D
Impact Drill Driver
Driver DF331D
TD110D
Brushless
Combi Drill
HP332D
Jigsaw Combi Drill
JV101D HP331D
Brushless
Drill Driver
DF032D
Drill Driver
Tile Cutter DF031D
CC301D
Circular Saw
HS301D

Reciprocating Saw
JR103D / JR105D

Drill Driver & Impact Driver Kit Combi Drill & Impact Driver Kit
CLX201AJ CLX202AJ

Battery Fuel Gauge Compact eXtreme Technology

Four LED’s on the back of the • Individual cell monitoring
battery pack activated by a • Battery protection circuit
push button, shows the current • Low temperature performance to -20ºC
charge of the battery cells. • Battery fuel gauge on battery BL1040B

Visit www.makitauk.com to register More information

for your Makita 3 Year Warranty. can be found at
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012_WWC_016.indd 12 6/17/16 2:59 PM
 Hand woodworking

PHOTOGRAPHS BY PETER SEFTON

The stunning
four-way book
matched top

Insight The Borden F120, UH21 and 99

Extender, all elements of the UF glue

‘Sam’s Veneer’
Being able to mix both solid timber and
veneer within a project opens up a whole
variety of design possibilities Earth pigment added to the glue mix

am Carter is a past student, through. Burr veneers generally have

S who joined my School at 18

and was awarded the Alan Peters
Award at last year’s Celebration of
some holes within it – if the holes are
3mm or larger, we will cut in a piece
of veneer disguised as a knot. Small
Craftsmanship and Design exhibition pip holes of 1 or 2mm left in the
in Cheltenham. Sam is now my young veneer will fill up with the glue when
workshop assistant who, while helping being laid. To overcome this, and to
me, is also undertaking commissions avoid the white glue showing through
for clients. He is presently reproducing and causing us problems, we colour
his ‘Overarching’ console table for his it with earth pigments. A pigment is
latest customer to house their canteen added into the glue mix-up to match
of cutlery within the pair of drawers. the veneer’s colour. This fills any
small imperfections and will be lost
Sam’s table completely when finished.
Sam’s table top design is 1100 x Sam’s glue mixture is rolled on
400mm and will be veneered with a with a gravity-feed roller which gives The .6 millimetre walnut burr, prior
four-way book matched burr walnut a very consistent coating; the reverse to being pressed
veneer. He selected the veneer when balancing veneer is laid first, the board
on a buying trip to Mundy Veneers, is flipped over and the top surface is
as it had a wonderful grain pattern. rolled on. The veneer is laid in place Peter Seđon
Although the veneer’s figure was and secured with Tesa tape, and then Peter Sefton is a well-
stunning it needed a lot of flattening put into the veneer press and the known furniture maker
to remove the buckle, which is very Acme-threaded patterns wound down. who runs courses in fine
common with burr veneer. After The glued panel is later removed woodworking, teaching
cutting and matching the grain it from the press after a few hours, and mentoring students att th
the P
Peter
t
was time for gluing and pressing. glued down, and is then ready Sefton Furniture School. He also owns
The adhesive we use is a urea for construction. ■ Wood Workers Workshop and he is a
formaldehyde (UF) glue; this one is Liveryman of the Worshipful Company
particularly good for veneer work and of Furniture Makers.
combines three Borden products: Wood Web:
F120 resin, UH21 fast set Hardener Walnut (Juglans spp.) www.peterseftonfurnitureschool.com
and 99 Extender, which reduces bleed

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 Community

NEWS & EVENTS

All the latest events and news from the world of woodworking...
Forestry Commission
grows living ash trial
in National Forest
Forest Research, the research agency
of the Forestry Commission, has begun
a trial to look for tolerance to ash dieback
(caused by the fungus Hymenoscyphus
fraxineus, commonly known as chalara)
IMAGE COURTESY OF WOODLAND TRUST

in different varieties of ash tree (Fraxinus

excelsior). These trials will be carried out
in The National Forest near Ashby de la
Zouch, Leicestershire.
Over 4000 trees have been planted
across two hectares of land in an
experiment that will extend over the next
Commemorative re-enactment for planting
five years. The trial is part of the Living
Ash project sponsored by Defra and co-

Tree planting at Langley ordinated by the Earth Trust.

The project aims to identify genetically
tolerant trees and bring these together to
Vale for future generations form a new breeding population. Simon
West, NFC Head of Forestry said: “Ash is
angley Vale in Surrey, on the downs and Central London in the a magnificent, valuable and irreplaceable

L edge of the Epsom Downs,

is at the heart of an ambitious
woodland creation plan, forming
distance. Carpets of wild flowers
continue sweep across the habitat.
A representative of the Woodland
tree in our landscape, with between one
to two million in The National Forest,
and lots more across England.”
part of this year’s First World War Trust, said of the project: “For us, Dr Jo Clark, Earth Trust Forestry
Centenary commemorations. this initiative perfectly captures the Research Manager and Living Ash Project
The site will be transformed through ethos of the Woodland Trust – lead, said: “Ironically, it is only by hoping
the planting of 200,000 trees. Local creating new woodland, restoring that many of the trees in this trial will
volunteers and school children have a rare landscape, protecting exiting succumb to ash dieback, that we’ll be able
already been hard at work, and so ancient woodland, and bringing to identify the tolerant individuals from
far have planted 10,000 specimens. people with us in this work.” which to breed the next generation of
The area, which spans 640 acres, healthy ash trees.”
still features plenty of open space, Contact: Woodland Trust
preserving the stunning views of the Web: www.woodlandtrust.org.uk Contact: Earth Trust
Web: www.livingashproject.org.uk
and www.earthtrust.org.uk
READER LETTER
IMAGE BY SIMON CLARK

the magazine.
IMAGE COURTESY OF NATIONAL FOREST COMPANY

I would like to share a ‘tribute’ to My interest

my woodwork tutor, Andrew Willatt, in woodwork
who is retiring after 38 years in adult has become a
education teaching. passion, thanks
I’ve had the pleasure of learning to Andy’s skills
with Andy for the last 18 months. as a teacher and
He introduced me to the first issue a woodworker,
of Woodworking Crafts magazine when his encouragement and him being a
I started the course. While I’ve always genuinely nice chap. Wednesday nights
been relatively handy, learning from won’t be the same without him, but
him has improved the quality of my Andy certainly deserves his retirement!
work, taught me many new skills and The magazine continues to be
given me the confidence to try more excellent, thank you.
complicated projects. This has included
my first attempts at woodturning, when Best wishes
I made a garden dibber, as inspired by Simon Clark, Derby Sapling of ash

14 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

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 Community

IMAGE COURTESY OF HERITAGE CRAFTS ASSOCIATION

Fellowships help Briধsh crađers voyage afar
The Winston Churchill Memorial Trust to a partnership with the Worshipful
(WCMT) will award 150 Travelling Company of Carpenters. WCMT also
Fellowships in 2017, under a ‘Crafts continue to collaborate with the Heritage
and Makers’ category. The funding Crafts Association. These partnerships
available will directly support British have so far seen 20 Fellowships awarded,
citizens wishing to travel overseas to resulting in an investment of over
gain knowledge and experience in their £115,000 in British craftspeople.
field. The application process for these Edmund Jacobs, a furniture designer ways of tackling a wide range of current
Fellowships is now open. and maker from London, will be travelling challenges facing the UK.
An estimated 11,620 businesses are across Europe this year to explore Successful applicants will receive an
involved in craft industries in the UK, sustainable manufacturing and design average Fellowship grant of £6000, to
helping to make key contributionS to the techniques for bespoke furniture, funded cover airfare, daily living costs, insurance
economy, as well as to the preservation by a Fellowship grant. and travel within the countries visited.
of traditional skills. Successful applicants must show
Two Travelling Fellowships will be commitment, character and tenacity to Contact: Winston Churchill Memorial Trust
awarded to carpenters and joiners, thanks travel globally in pursuit of new and better Web: www.wcmt.org.uk

FAIRS AND FESTIVALS

Art In Acধon Other Forthcoming Events

IMAGE COURTESY OF APTGW

Artists, crafters, performers and • Wales Woodcraft Festival
musicians gather together to show When: 20–21 August, 2016
their work and demonstrate skills. Join Where: National Botanic Garden, Wales
practical classes to have a go yourself, Web: www.botanicgarden.wales
with the guidance of an expert teacher.
When: 14–17 July, 2016 • South Downs Show
Where: Waterperry Gardens, Oxford When: 20–21 August, 2016 West Midlands Bodgers playing the
Web: www.artinaction.org.uk Where: Queen Elizabeth Country Park, part at Blists Hill
nr Petersfield, Hampshire
CLA Game Fair Web: www.southdownsshow.co.uk
Celebrating country life and British field
sports, this fair includes a Woodland • Biddenden TractorFest & Country Fair
and Forestry area with stalls providing When: 20–21 August, 2016
machinery, services, advice and Where: Biddenden, Kent
equipment demonstrations. Web: www.tractorfest.co.uk
When: 29–31 July, 2016
Where: Ragley Hall, Alcester, Warks. • Charcoal and Woodyard Weekend
IMAGE BY ALAN MARSHALL

Web: www.gamefair.co.uk When: 26–29 August, 2016

Where: Weald and Downland Museum,
Lammas Fesধval Singleton, West Sussex
Eastbourne's annual free festival of Web: www.wealddown.co.uk/events/
music, dance and entertainment on the charcoal-woodyard-weekend/
Western Lawns. The Sussex Pole-Lathe Woodcarving with Andrew Pearson
Turners and Green Woodworkers will • Rudgwick Country Show at Art in Action
give craft demonstrations and the site When: 27–29 August, 2016
will be packed with food and craft stalls. Where: Rudgwick, West Sussex
When: 30–31 July, 2016 Web: www.woodlandcrafts.co.uk/
Where: Western Lawns, Eastbourne rudgwick-country-show/
Web: www.lammasfest.org
• Stock Gaylard Oak Fair
Blists Hill Country Fair When: 27–28 August, 2016
The atmosphere of a traditional Where: Stock Gaylard Estate,
IMAGE BY GRAHAM HUNTLEY

country fair will be recreated at Blists Sturminster Newton, Dorset

Hill Victorian Town. Play games on Web: www.stockgaylard.com
The Green with the Town’s residents,
watch traditional skills in action and be • Treefest
entertained by the Prince Albert Players. When: 27–29 August 2016
When: 30–31 July, 2016 Where: Westonbirt Arboretum
Where: Blists Hill, Shropshire Web: www.forestry.gov.uk/westonbirt Green lady celebrating ‘loaf mass’ on
Web: www.ironbridge.org.uk -treefest Eastbourne’s Western Lawns

Woodworking Crafts issue 16 15

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 FROM ONLY LEG STAND KITS 4" BELT/
£ .98
69EX.VAT FOR CTS10D 6" DISC
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TABLE £
83.98
INC.VAT ONLY £27.59 s Dust extraction facility
SAWS INC VAT’ sXBELTTILTSLOCKS ª
sMMXMMTABLETILTS ª
s76MOTOR
CS4-6D
NOW £
84.99
EX.VAT

INCLUDES SUPERSTORES £
101.99
INC.VAT
LEFT
& RIGHT
NATIONWIDE
TABLE
EXTENSION CTS10D
MODEL MOTOR BLADE
CTS800B 600W 200mm
EXC.VAT INC.VAT
£69.98 £83.98 WHERE QUALITY
CTS11 1500W 254mm
CTS10D*-OULDEDBASE
1500W 254mm
£139.98 £167.98
£159.98 £191.98 COSTS LESS
TABLE SAW WITH RANDOM ORBITAL WOODWORKING TURBO AIR 6" BELT/
EXTENSION SANDER VICES COMPRESSORS 9" DISC
£
CTS14
TABLES (250mm) 29EX.VAT
.98
SANDER
£
35INC.VAT
.98 s )NCLUDESSTAND
)DEALFORCROSSCUTTING FROM ONLY
s(06
£
RIPPINGANGLEAND s For sanding 79EXC.VAT
.98
1ph motor
mitre cutting %ASY & polishing £
release/locking mechanism s 125mm
FROM ONLY
.49 95INC.VAT
.98

FORTABLEEXTENSIONS 0-45° diameter

£
13EX.VAT 8/250 s3UPERB
CS6-9C
WV7
TILTINGBLADE Cutting depth: sanding discs CROS1
£
16.19 INC.VAT range £
209.00
EXC.VAT
ideal £
MMATªMMATª s 4000-11000 opm
INC 5 DISCS
MODEL MOUNTING JAW
FOR$)9 250.80
INC.VAT
(WIDTH/OPENING
SHOWN WITH /DEPTH)mm EXC.VAT INC.VAT HOBBY
OPTIONAL LEG KIT #LARKE "OLTED  £13.49 £16.19 semi-
CLK5 £19.98 CHT152 PROFESSIONAL
EXC.VAT ELECTRIC 3TANLEY #LAMPED  £16.99 £20.39 use
£
119EXC.VAT
.98 £23.98 INC.VAT POWER Multi Angle
£ FILE 2ECORD6"#LAMPED  £19.98 £23.98 HUGE RANGE 1" BELT/ 5"
143INC.VAT
.98
#LARKE76 "OLTED  £24.99 £29.99 OF AIR TOOLS DISC SANDER
IN STOCK
DUST EXTRACTOR/ s)NCLUDESTABLES
CORDLESS *6 4WIN that tilt & lock
CHIP COLLECTORS FROM ONLY
s6ARIABLEBELT £
44EXC.VAT
.99 DRILL/ DRIVERS 64EX.VAT
£ .99
speed s4ILTINGHEAD £ MODEL MOTOR CFM TANK EXC.VAT INC.VAT INC.VAT
£
FROM ONLY METABO
ALSO *Black & Decker CPF13 53.99
INC.VAT 8/250 2HP 7.5 24ltr £79.98 £95.98 77INC.VAT
£ .99
129.98
EXC.VAT
AVAILABLE MODEL MOTOR EXC.VAT INC.VAT
7/250 2 HP 7 24ltr £89.98 £107.98
£
155.98
INC.VAT
CPF13 400W/230V £44.99 £53.99
11/250 2.5HP
8/510 2HP
9.5 24ltr
7.5 50ltr
£109.98 £143.98
£119.98 £155.98
£131.98
£143.98
CBS1-5
KA900E* 350W/230V £59.98 £71.98 s1UALITY
11/510 2.5HP 9.5 50ltr £139.98 £179.98 £167.98 )NDUCTION
16/510* 3 HP 14.5 50ltr £209.00 £263.98 £250.80 300w motor
CBS16 FROM ONLY
£ 16/1010*3 HP 14.5 100ltr £259.98 £323.98 £311.98
DRILL BIT SHARPENER
CON18Li 36EXC.VAT
.99
£
s0OWERFUL 'REATFORMMTO £PRICE .98 CUT 44INC.VAT
.39
ROTARY TOOL
4" BELT/
MM(33DRILLBITS 19EXC.VAT KIT
750W motor
70W motor Drill £23INC.VAT .98 8" DISC SANDER
sLITREBAGCAPACITY
s&LOWRATEOF-H BITGUIDEENSURES WAS £26.36 inc.VAT CRT40 s )NCLUDES
sharpening at the PSR18 TWOTABLES
correct angle 3AVES £
29EX.VAT
.98
FLOW BAG COSTOFNEWDRILLS VIDEO MODEL VOLTS BATTS EXC. VAT INC.VAT £
MODEL MOTOR RATE CAP. EXC.VAT INC.VAT
ON-LINE
CCD180 18V 1 £36.99 £44.39 35INC.VAT
.98
s 550W
CDE35B 750W 450 M3/h 56Ltrs £129.98 £155.98 CCD240 24V 1 £39.98 £47.98 Kit includes: 230V motor
CDE7B 750W 850 M3/h 114Ltrs £149.98 £179.98 Bosch PSR18 18V 1 £54.99 £65.99 s Height adjustable stand with clamp s2OTARYTOOL £
FROM ONLY
sMmEXIBLEDRIVEsXACCESSORIESCONSUMABLES 139 EXC.VAT
#/..I 6 X.I #D £59.98 £71.98 .98
£
POWER £23EXC.VAT
.99 WET
FROM ONLY 47EX.VAT
.99
CON18Li 18V 2 x Li-Ion £84.99 £101.99
167.98
£
INC.VAT
£
PLANERS £ & DRY 57INC.VAT
.59
PRICE CUT STATIC PHASE CS4-8
28INC.VAT
.79
VACUUM *33
NOW FROM ONLY CONVERTERS DISC SANDER
£
CLEANERS 3TAINLESS STAPLE/ 18EXC.VAT
.99
s Run big 3 phase PC60 (305MM)
#OMPACTHIGH 3TEEL NAIL GUNS £
22.79 INC.VAT woodworking 0OWERFULBENCHMOUNTED
PERFORMANCE !LLMODELSINCLUDE WAS £23.98 inc.VAT machines disc sander 7
WETDRY nail/staple pack and from 1 phase No load
vacuum cleaners tough moulded case supply disc speed:
FORUSEAROUNDTHEHOME s6ARIABLE RPM
s 82mm output power 305mm
cutting WORKSHOPGARAGEETC CONSN18LiB
MODEL MOTOR CAPACITY EXC. INC. to match HP Disc Dia.
width OFMOTORTO (1 x 60 grit
CEP1 WET/DRY VAT VAT
NEW
CVAC20P 1250W 16/12ltr £47.99 £57.59 BERUN sanding disc
CVAC20SS* 1400W 16/12ltr £59.98 £71.98 INCLUDED
MODEL DEPTH EXC.VAT INC.VAT ROTARY Dust
M OTOR OF CUT CVAC25SS* 1400W 19/17ltr £64.99 £77.99 PHASE £
Clarke CEP1 650W 2mm £23.99 £28.79 CVAC30SSR*1400W 24/21ltr £86.99 £104.39 SPARE NAILS /
STAPLES IN STOCK
CONVERTERS
FROM ONLY
extraction
port
119.98
EXC.VAT
£
Einhell RT-PL82 850W
"$+7+ '" 7
3mm £49.98
MM £57.99
£59.98
£69.59
FROM ONLY
ALSO IN STOCK £
209EXC.VAT .00 CDS300B 143.98
INC.VAT
£
3EXC.VAT
.99
*WASaINC6!4 ELECTRIC AND CORDLESS
MODELS IN STOCK
CONVERT 230V £
250INC.VAT
.80

CLAMPS
£
4INC.VAT
.79 sWASaINC6!4 1PH TO 400V 3PH
QUALITY CAST STAPLE/NAIL EXC. INC. MODEL MAX. FUSE EXC.VAT INC.VAT
IRON STOVES MODEL TYPE GAUGE VAT VAT MOTOR HP SHEET
£
OVER 22 QUALITY
89EXC.VAT
.98
HUGE CHOICE CESNG1*
CCT48 s
Electric
#ORDLESS
22/18 £18.99 £22.79 PC20 2HP 10Amps £209.00 £250.80 SANDERS
£ OF SASH, PC40 3.5HP 20Amps £249.00 £298.80
STYLES ON DISPLAY 107.98
INC.VAT SPRING, SCREW, 4.8v Ni-MH 22/18 £24.99 £29.99 PC60 5.5HP 32Amps £299.00 £358.80 FROM ONLY
POT SPREADER AND CESNG2 Electric 18/18 £39.98 £47.98 CON300 £
11.8kW BELLY 6.9kW G-CLAMPS CONSN18LiB #ORDLESS CIRCULAR SAWS 13EXC.VAT
.99
£
NEW 18v Lithium-Ion 18/18 £99.98 £119.98 'REATRANGEOF$)9 £
FROM ONLY *110V in stock
.79
16INC.VAT
UP TO
1800mm ANDPROFESSIONAL 34EXC.VAT
.99
MODEL SHEET SIZE MOTOR EXC.VAT INC.VAT
£
CAPACITY BELT saws )DEAL 41INC.VAT
.99 COS200 190X90mm 150W £13.99 £16.79
SANDERS FORBEVEL C0N300 230X115mm 330W £32.99 £39.59
HARDWOOD cutting Makita 112X102mm 200W £54.99 £65.99
s)DEALFORSURFACEREMOVAL  ª BO4555*
WORKBENCH sanding and finishing
)NCLUDESBENCHDOGSANDGUIDEHOLESFOR CON185 PORTABLE
VARIABLEWORKPOSITIONING (EAVY$UTY6ICES ABRASIVE SANDING
LARGE & XL
Large storage draw 3UNKENTOOLTROUGH BELTS IN STOCK s Max thickness THICKNESSER
MODELS IN STOCK
LxWxH 1520x620x855mm cap. 125mm and
BARREL 6kW 250mm wide
£ *)NCLUDES
209EXC.VAT
.00
SAVE £60 laser guide
s Planing depths
ADJUSTABLE
£ .80
250INC.VAT inc.VAT
FROM ONLY FROM MM
.98 s0OWERFUL
FLUES,
PRICE CUT
NOW ONLY CHB1500
£
29EX.VAT MODEL MOTOR MAX CUT
1250W motor
BS1 90/45
COWLS & £
ACCESSORIES £ 199
.00
EXC.VAT
£
35 .98
INC.VAT
(mm) EXC.VAT INC.VAT s 8000rpm
no-load speed
IN STOCK
.80
238
INC.VAT MODEL MOTOR M/MIN EXC.VAT INC.VAT CCS185B 1200W 65/44 £34.99 £41.99 £
WAS £298.80 inc.VAT
£ Clarke BS1 900W 380 £29.98 £35.98 CON185*# 1600W 60/40 £54.99 £65.99 189EXC.VAT
.98
129EXC.VAT
.98
Clarke CBS2 1200W 480 £69.98 £83.98 CCS2 1300W 60/45 £59.98 £71.98 £
227INC.VAT
.98 CPT250
£
BUCKINGHAM 155INC.VAT
.98
Makita 9911 650W 75-270 £94.99 £113.99 #WASaINC6!4
OSCILLATING
BOLTLESS s 3IMPLEFASTASSEMBLY FROM ONLY
SAVE CPT800 BOBBIN SANDER
Provides exceptional finishes for deep

10%
.98
SHELVING BENCHES INMINUTESUSINGONLYA £
29EX.VAT PLANERS & & wide work pieces, front
hammer £
35.98
INC.VAT THICKNESSERS edges & narrow inner curves
s$USTCOLLECTION COBS1
WHEN YOU BUY s )DEALFOR
ANY MIX OF 5 PORTs)NC
FROM THIS RANGE $)9 sanding sleeves
SAVE AT LEAST (OBBYUSE BOBBINS
£17.99 INC.VAT s$UALPURPOSE sMMTABLE
CHOICE OF 5 COLOURS FORBOTHlNISHING FROM ONLY HEIGHTsMM
SIZINGOF £
169EXC.VAT
.98
oscillating
TIMBER £
RED, BLUE, BLACK,
SILVER & GALVANISED
.98
203INC.VAT stroke
ONLY
EVENLY EVENLY STEEL MODEL PLANING MAX THICK. EXC. INC. £
119EXC.VAT
.98

350
ALSO WIDTH CAPACITY VAT VAT
DISTRIBUTED DISTRIBUTED EXTRA WIDE MODEL DIMS £
3TRONGMM KG
3TRONGMM INDUSTRIAL WxDxH(mm) EXC.VAT INC.VAT CPT600 6" 120mm £169.98 £203.98 143INC.VAT
.98

lBREBOARD lBREBOARD UNITS 150kg 800x300x1500 £29.98 £35.98 CPT800 8" 120mm £199.98 £239.98
PER SHELF shelves PER SHELF shelves AVAILABLE 350kg 900x400x1800 £49.98 £59.98 CPT1000 NEW 10" 120mm £269.98 £323.98
25218LH

016_017_WWC_016.indd 16 6/9/16 5:03 PM

 10" (254MM) SLIDING GET
s&ORFASTACCURATE
CROSSBEVELMITRE
cutting in most hard
SOFTWOODS
COMPOUND
MITRE SAW NOW O
VER

PRODUCTS ONLINE!
17,000 FREE CATALOGUE
500
PAGE
YOUR
FREE
s7MOTOR
s,ASERGUIDE
For hard-to-find,
Over COPY
specialist items
NOW!
1250
s78mm max.
depth of cut visit the
£
129EXC.VAT
.98 s IN-STORE
£
155INC.VAT
.98
PRICE CUTS & s ONLINE
CMS10S2
section on NEW PRODUCTS s PHONE
machinemart.co.uk 0844 880 1265
£
MITRE SAWS 149EXC.VAT
.98 TC-SB200
PROFESSIONAL BANDSAWS
£
179INC.VAT
.98

MORTISING Top Quality Bandsaws - ideal

for professional workshop use.
MACHINE Strong steel body with solid cast
Accurately creates iron table featuring induction
deep square recesses BENCH motors
FROM ONLY Table size 150 x BANDSAWS s Table tilts 45° s Adjustable blade
£
56EXC.VAT
.99 340mm Max. chisel
stroke 76mm
FROM ONLY guide s3UPPLIEDWITHSTAND40)
£ CBM1B WOODCUTTINGBLADERIPFENCEMITRE
68INC.VAT
.39
Robust cast iron base
£
99EXC.VAT
.98
GUIDEMITREGAUGEANDPUSHSTICK
£
COLUMNENSURES
STABILITYACCURACY
119INC.VAT
.98

TC-SM 2534 95mm depth of cut 0RODUCEFAST

s Quality Range of Mitre saws and blades in stock PRECISEMITRE
MODEL BLADE DIA/ MAX CUT EXC. INC. longitudinal cuts
BORE (mm) DEPTH/CROSS VAT VAT #UTSINWOOD
Einhell 210/30 55/120mm £56.99 £68.39 CHISELS “..fast and accurate with a good solid PLASTICETC MAGNIFIED QUICK
AVAILABLE FROM feel…Excellent value for money.” MITRE RELEASE
TH-MS 2112 THROAT
Evolution 210/25.4 60/220mm £119.98 £143.98 £8.39 INC VAT See www.machinemart.co.uk MODEL MOTOR SIZE EXC.VAT INC.VAT
GUIDE FENCE
Fury 3 TC-SB200 180W 8" £99.98 £119.98
Einhell 250/30 75/340mm £159.98 £191.98 CBS190 350W 7.5" £114.99 £137.99
TC-SM2534 MITRESAW STAND
DRIVE-BELT
Makita 260/30 95/130mm £199.98 £239.98 CFMSS1 TENSIONING
LS1040 PRICE CUT
NOW ONLY
SOLID
£
59EXC.VAT
.98 DRILL PRESSES GROUND
DETAIL £ s Range of precision
SANDERS
s Suitable for most 71INC.VAT
.98
BENCHmOORPRESSESFOR
CAST
IRON CBS350
sizes/makes of saw WAS £77.99 inc.VAT
CBS300 £
s)NCOUTRIGGERSROLLERS ENTHUSIASTENGINEERING £
349EXC.VAT
.98
TABLE 449EXC.VAT
.00
industrial £
s Perfect for smooth and fine finishing along NEW FOLDING MITRE SAW £
419INC.VAT
.98 538INC.VAT
.80

with hard to reach areas or curved STAND IN STOCK – CONMW1

applications
NEW
surfaces ONLY £119.98 INC VAT
£
FROM ONLY
59EXC.VAT
.98 RANGE MODELS ALSO FEATURE:
£
71INC.VAT CDP152B
.98 MULTI-
STEP DUST
REMOVABLE
BLADE
MULTI FUNCTION B = Bench mounted EXTRACTION
DUST TRAY FLEXIBLE
TENSIONING
CDS-1V LED
TOOL WITH ACCESSORY KIT &&LOORSTANDING OUTLET WORKLIGHT CONTROL
s'REATFORSAWINGCUTTINGSANDINGPOLISHING V = Variable speed
CHISELLINGMUCHMOREs 250W motor MOTOR (W) EXC. INC. MODEL THROAT DEPTH MAX CUT 90° MAX CUT 45° EXC.VAT INC.VAT
FROM ONLY sVariable speed MODEL SPEEDS VAT VAT CBS300 305mm/12" 165mm 115mm £349.98 £419.98
£
17EXC.VAT
.99
£ CDP5EB 350 / 5 £59.98 £71.98 CBS350 340mm/14" 225mm 160mm £449.00 £538.80
ALL MODELS
£ 36EXC.VAT
.99
CDP102B 350 / 5 £69.98 £83.98
INC. SANDING 21INC.VAT
.59
£
44INC.VAT
.39 CDP152B 450 / 12 £119.98 £143.98
SHEETS
CMFT250 CDP202B 450 / 16 £159.98 £191.98 ROUTERS BENCH GRINDERS
MODEL WATTS EXC.VAT INC.VAT CDP10B 370 / 12 £169.98 £203.98 & STANDS
PS105 105W £17.99 £21.59 CDP352F 550 / 16 £199.98 £239.98 sStands come complete with bolt mountings
RT-0S13 130W £22.99 £27.59 CDP350V 550 / V £219.00 £262.80 and feet anchor holes
CDS-1V 280W £24.99 £29.99 CDP502F 1100 / 12 £449.00 £538.80 STANDS IN STOCK
s Powerful FROM ONLY
heavy duty £37.98 EXC. VAT
13" MINI ROUTER TABLE machines £47.98 INC. VAT
ideal for
WOOD LATHE CRT-1
Router not trade and
£
134EX.VAT
.99
included DIY use
£
161INC.VAT
.99
CBG6SB
JIGSAWS CR2
FROM ONLY
£
12EXC.VAT
.99
£
59EX.VAT
.98
£
15INC.VAT
.59
s Converts your router £
71INC.VAT
.98
CR2 INCLUDES
*DIY #Professional CJS380 CWL325V into a stationary router 15 PIECE KIT FROM ONLY
table s Suitable for most £
MODEL POWER DEPTH
(W) OF CUT EXC. INC
s Ideal for enthusiasts/ routers (up to 155mm dia. Base plate)
WORTH OVER £20 .98
29EX.VAT
hobbyists with small workshops £
(WOOD/STEEL) VAT VAT s 325mm distance between centres s 200mm 35INC.VAT
.98
6" & 8"
Clarke CJS380* 420W 55/6mm £12.99 £15.59 max. turning capacity (dia) s 0.2HP motor 12" FROM ONLY AVAILABLE
.98 WITH LIGHT
Clarke CON750#
Bosch PST700E*
750W 80/10mm £24.99 £29.99
500W 70/4mm £44.99 £53.99
DOVETAIL JIG £
39EX.VAT
SCROLL SAWS s3IMPLEEASYTOSETUPUSEFORPRODUCINGA
Einhell RT-JS 85 NEW 750W 85/5mm £49.98 £59.98 variety of joints s Cuts work pieces with a
£
47.98
INC.VAT

FROM ONLY thickness of 8-32mm s Includes a 1/2" comb

£
BISCUIT JOINTER 69EXC.VAT
.98 template guide
HOLESFOR
CR1C
CBG8W features
£
11000rpm Operating Speed 83INC.VAT
.98
bench mounting WHETSTONE
860W Motor 14mm Cutting 6"drystone.
Depth Inc. dust bag s 50mm # With sanding belt
and storage case max cut thickness ‡ was £67.19 inc.VAT CBG6RP
s Air-blower removes MODEL DUTY WHEEL
dust from cutting area *DIY DIA. EXC.VAT INC.VAT
s Table tilts 0-45° CSS16V MODEL MOTOR PLUNGE EXC.VAT INC.VAT CBG6RP DIY 150mm £29.98 £35.98
£ SPEED EXC. INC. (W) (mm) CBG6RZ PRO 150mm £39.98 £47.98
49EXC.VAT
.98
MODEL MOTOR RPM VAT VAT
CDTJ12 CR1C* 1200 0-50 £39.98 £47.98 CBG6RSC HD 150mm £49.98 £59.98
£
59INC.VAT
.98
CSS400B 85W 1450 £69.98 £83.98 £
49EXC.VAT
.98 Bosch
POF1400ACE
1400 0-55 £79.98 £95.98 CBG6SB#
CBG6RWC
PRO 150mm £49.98
HD 150mm £54.99
£59.98
£65.99
CSS16V 120W 400-1700 £79.98 £95.98 £
BT-BJ900
TH-SS405E 1200W 400-1600 £79.98 £95.98
.98
59INC.VAT CR2 2100 0-60 £109.98 £131.98 CBG8W (wet)‡ HD 150/200mm £49.98 £59.98
V OPEN MON-FRI 8.30-6.00,
VISIT YOUR LOCAL SUPERSTORE SAT 8.30-5.30, SUN 10.00-4.00 OPE
EN 7 DAYS
BARNSLEY Pontefract Rd, Barnsley, S71 1EZ 01226 732297 EXETER 16 Trusham Rd. EX2 8QG 01392 256 744 MIDDLESBROUGH Mandale Triangle, Thornaby 01642 677881
B’HAM GREAT BARR 4 Birmingham Rd.
B’HAM HAY MILLS 1152 Coventry Rd, Hay Mills
0121 358 7977
0121 7713433
GATESHEAD 50 Lobley Hill Rd. NE8 4YJ
GLASGOW 280 Gt Western Rd. G4 9EJ
0191 493 2520
0141 332 9231
NORWICH 282a Heigham St. NR2 4LZ
NOTTINGHAM 211 Lower Parliament St.
01603 766402
0115 956 1811
4 EASY WAYS TO BUY...
BOLTON 1 Thynne St. BL3 6BD 01204 365799 GLOUCESTER 221A Barton St. GL1 4HY 01452 417 948 PETERBOROUGH 417 Lincoln Rd. Millfield 01733 311770
BRADFORD 105-107 Manningham Lane. BD1 3BN 01274 390962 GRIMSBY ELLIS WAY, DN32 9BD 01472 354435 PLYMOUTH 58-64 Embankment Rd. PL4 9HY 01752 254050 IN-STORE
BRIGHTON 123 Lewes Rd, BN2 3QB
BRISTOL 1-3 Church Rd, Lawrence Hill. BS5 9JJ
01273 915999
0117 935 1060
HULL 8-10 Holderness Rd. HU9 1EG
ILFORD 746-748 Eastern Ave. IG2 7HU
01482 223161
0208 518 4286
POOLE 137-139 Bournemouth Rd. Parkstone 01202 717913 65 SUPERSTORES
PORTSMOUTH 277-283 Copnor Rd. Copnor 023 9265 4777
BURTON UPON TRENT 12a Lichfield St. DE14 3QZ 01283 564 708 IPSWICH Unit 1 Ipswich Trade Centre, Commercial Road 01473 221253 PRESTON 53 Blackpool Rd. PR2 6BU 01772 703263
CAMBRIDGE 181-183 Histon Road, Cambridge. CB4 3HL 01223 322675 LEEDS 227-229 Kirkstall Rd. LS4 2AS 0113 231 0400
CARDIFF 44-46 City Rd. CF24 3DN 029 2046 5424 LEICESTER 69 Melton Rd. LE4 6PN 0116 261 0688
SHEFFIELD 453 London Rd. Heeley. S2 4HJ
SIDCUP 13 Blackfen Parade, Blackfen Rd
0114 258 0831
0208 3042069
ONLINE
CARLISLE 85 London Rd. CA1 2LG
CHELTENHAM 84 Fairview Road. GL52 2EH
01228 591666
01242 514 402
LINCOLN Unit 5. The Pelham Centre. LN5 8HG
LIVERPOOL 80-88 London Rd. L3 5NF
01522 543 036
0151 709 4484
SOUTHAMPTON 516-518 Portswood Rd. 023 8055 7788 www.machinemart.co.uk
CHESTER 43-45 St. James Street. CH1 3EY 01244 311258 LONDON CATFORD 289/291 Southend Lane SE6 3RS 0208 695 5684 SOUTHEND 1139-1141 London Rd. Leigh on Sea 01702 483 742
COLCHESTER 4 North Station Rd. CO1 1RE 01206 762831 LONDON 6 Kendal Parade, Edmonton N18 020 8803 0861 STOKE-ON-TRENT 382-396 Waterloo Rd. Hanley 01782 287321
COVENTRY Bishop St. CV1 1HT 024 7622 4227 LONDON 503-507 Lea Bridge Rd. Leyton, E10 020 8558 8284 SUNDERLAND 13-15 Ryhope Rd. Grangetown 0191 510 8773 MAIL ORDER
CROYDON 423-427 Brighton Rd, Sth Croydon 020 8763 0640 LONDON 100 The Highway, Docklands 020 7488 2129 SWANSEA 7 Samlet Rd. Llansamlet. SA7 9AG
SWINDON 21 Victoria Rd. SN1 3AW
01792 792969
01793 491717
0115 956 5555
DARLINGTON 214 Northgate. DL1 1RB 01325 380 841 LUTON Unit 1, 326 Dunstable Rd, Luton LU4 8JS 01582 728 063
DEAL (KENT) 182-186 High St. CT14 6BQ 01304 373 434 MAIDSTONE 57 Upper Stone St. ME15 6HE 01622 769 572 TWICKENHAM 83-85 Heath Rd.TW1 4AW 020 8892 9117
DERBY Derwent St. DE1 2ED
DONCASTER Wheatley Hall Road
01332 290 931
01302 245 999
MANCHESTER ALTRINCHAM 71 Manchester Rd. Altrincham 0161 9412 666
MANCHESTER CENTRAL 209 Bury New Road M8 8DU 0161 241 1851
WARRINGTON Unit 3, Hawley’s Trade Pk.
WIGAN 2 Harrison Street, WN5 9AU
01925 630 937
01942 323 785 CLICK &
DUNDEE 24-26 Trades Lane. DD1 3ET
EDINBURGH 163-171 Piersfield Terrace
01382 225 140
0131 659 5919
MANCHESTER OPENSHAW Unit 5, Tower Mill, Ashton Old Rd 0161 223 8376
MANSFIELD 169 Chesterfield Rd. South 01623 622160
WOLVERHAMPTON Parkfield Rd. Bilston
WORCESTER 48a Upper Tything. WR1 1JZ
01902 494186
01905 723451
COLLECT
25218RH Calls to the catalogue request number above (0844 880 1265) cost 7p per minute plus your telephone company’s network access charge
For security reasons, calls may be monitored. All prices correct at time of going to press. We reserve the right to change products and prices at any time. All offers subject to availability, E&OE.

016_017_WWC_016.indd 17 6/9/16 5:03 PM

 The
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Bank holiday Mo
Monday
onday
nday
am 5pm
29 August 2016, 9am-5pm
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018_WWC_016.indd 18 6/16/16 2:20 PM

 Hand woodworking

PHOTOGRAPHS BY IAIN WHITTINGTON

Windsor
chair
repair
Don’t do a ‘bodged’
chair repair – Iain
Whiষngton shows
you the correct way
hairs are misused and abused

C by all of us and, as a result, are

prone to failure. Unfortunately,
unless the chair is one of a special
antique set, the commercial cost
of repairing a single chair often far
out-weighs its value. As a result, most
woodworkers have been accosted by
friends and family, bearing gifts and
broken chairs for repair. Unless you are
a skilled restorer, should the chair be
an antique of value, I would strongly
suggest you decline, as chair structural
restoration (rather than simple repair)
is fraught with hidden dangers – hence
the high prices quoted.
In this case, the chair is one of the
many thousands of general purpose
elm (Ulmus procera) and beech
(Fagus sylvatica) hoop-backed utility
chairs that were mass-produced in
places like High Wycombe with the
woodland bodgers making the turned
components by the gross (144 in old
money) and the seats and assembly
done under factory conditions in the
town. These were the IKEA chairs of
their time and were the common type Restoraধon notes
of seats used throughout the 19th and An old Windsor chair is a complex structure where a combination of pre-planned
20th centuries. They featured widely wood movement, plus wear and tear makes for an entertaining combination when
in chapels, schools and pubs, so have trying to disassemble. There should be no mechanical fixings in the chair, but the
little commercial value. This one is main holes in the seat were designed to distort with drying, hence lock the main
part of a ‘set’ that was bought as a job structural parts, i.e legs and backs, firmly in place. So broken pieces will have to be
lot, so it will cause some inconvenience cut or drilled out. However, it’s not uncommon to find these have been repaired
to match up the remainder with a before and if you’re lucky with hide glue that you can reverse with heat.
replacement. As a result, a straight When re-assembling any old furniture, never use metal fasteners. If a mechanical
repair is justified, rather than fastener is unavoidable, use a cocktail stick instead of a panel pin and a peg or
restoration, hence bringing with it wedge instead of a screw. Please think of the next person who will have to fix the
no worries about effects on value – item and only use reversible hide glue, as modern glues are so effective that they
just the need to observe the general can only be cut out, together with the adjacent timber, for any future repair.
protocols of furniture restoration.

Woodworking Crafts issue 16 19

WWC_16_19_21_WINDSOR_CHAIR_REPAIR_HAND_IW_bdABvsJRIW.indd 19 09/06/2016 10:59

 Hand woodworking

The process
1 One end of the beech hoop back
had broken off at the junction with
the seat, leaving a small stub sticking
up. As this was firmly wedged by the
use of differential wood movement,
the first step was to carefully drill
through from the top to create a hole
large enough into which to break the
remainder of the waste with a gouge,
although careful use of a chisel would
suffice. Care was taken to get the angle 1
right with the drill, so as to not end
up with a damaged hole in the seat.
A thin pilot hole was used to make
sure it was going through the centre.
The pilot hole was then followed by
a larger hole about half the original
diameter of the chair back.

2 With the bulk of the waste

removed, the hole could be tidied
up with a rasp. I found this was where
the microplane series actually out-
performed the traditional rasp, but
this may be unfair on my old rasps –
if I had spent as much on a new quality 2 3
rasp as I had done on the microplane,
it might have done a better job!

3 A bit of over-engineering saw a

small billet of oak offcut roughly
sawn to 25mm square, which was then
put on the lathe to turn the tenon
to size. This was followed by a quick
test fit, at which stage the shoulders
were marked for adjustment for the
contour of the seat.

4 With the shoulders trimmed to

shape, the square oak peg was
temporarily driven home and the
broken end of the back-hoop lined
up on it to mark the required angles
for the dovetailed scarf to meet with 4 5
the back-hoop.

5 The scarf on the peg was then

trimmed to shape, after which
the oak peg was firmly driven home
and could probably have been left
to chance. However, in line with
the earlier over-engineering, either
a wedge could have been inserted
from below, or some hide glue
could be applied before final fit.

6 The back hoop was then offered

up and marked, as the new peg
was not going to move during the rest
of the repair. Some care and ingenuity
was needed to clamp the chair firmly
to enable the scarf to be cut accurately
in-situ without inflicting new damage 6

20 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

WWC_16_19_21_WINDSOR_CHAIR_REPAIR_HAND_IW_bdABvsJRIW.indd 20 09/06/2016 10:59

 Hand woodworking

to the chair en-route. This was where

the large twinscrew front vice on an
old carpenter’s bench came into its
own, as once secured, the chair was
going nowhere. I am sure ingenious
configurations of other styles of vices
and clamps will serve just as well.

7 The usual routine of test fit and

adjust then followed, before the
back hoop was glued and clamped
to fit. In this case, modern glue was
necessary on the scarf, as the scarf
joint is a repair that will never
need to be reversed but needs to
be as strong as it possibly can.
7 8

8 Before the protruding peg was

trimmed, the gap-filling properties
of hide glue were employed by pouring
it into the joint to fill any voids created
in the removal of the old broken end.
I made sure it was not running straight
through and gave it plenty of time to
set before topping it up as necessary.

9 When all the glue was firmly set,

I then trimmed the bottom of the
peg flush to the underside of the seat.

10 As the top of the peg was left

oversized, I then trimmed it
all round to fit the hoop. 9 10

11 Once the join was flush and

when I was finished with edge
tools, the final surface was achieved
with abrasive, leaving a flush finish.
Inevitably the original French polish
on the hoop was damaged by the
trimming and sanding, so I made sure
it was feathered back along the grain.

12 Staining the finished work to

match the original, I preferred
to use a solvent-based stain as it sets
into the grain better. Finally, I applied
French polish and a suitable wax for
an effective and discreet repair. ■
11 12
Iain Whiষngton
Iain Whittington is a
retired army engineer Colour matching
who started woodworking The art of colour matching is subjective and is a result of building up of the colours
as a lifelong hobby under of wood stain, plus the hue of the over-laid French polish. This can be tweaked by
his father’s guidance the colour of the wax polish used to finish it all. As I needed a dark oak finish, I used
in the family’s garage, expanding his the darkest Garnet polish. Button polish gives a brighter red/brown finish, better
skills as he moved round the world suited to mahogany, while Garnet polish is richer and darker, more suited to old oak.
with the army. Iain has shared some Blonde polish is available to be used as a transparent seal coat. I applied several coats
of his experiences by writing about over a number of days, as a new coat would re-dissolve underlying coats. I kept going
woodworking, restoration and carving until I achieved an acceptable colour match and allowed the finishes to fully harden
for various magazines. off before touching the surface up with coloured wax polish.

Woodworking Crafts issue 16 21

WWC_16_19_21_WINDSOR_CHAIR_REPAIR_HAND_IW_bdABvsJRIW.indd 21 16/06/2016 14:13

 Community

Hints, Tips HINGE AND BRACKET

★ STAR
TIP

& Jigs
Your chance to pass on all your
crafty hints, tips and jigs to the
readers and maybe even win a prize!

SWING CATCH
Space was a problem in my tool cabinet. Every time I buy
a new hand tool, I keep running out of room to put it in.
I’ve been buying drawknives and spokeshaves and the latest Bob customised these plates to solve his friend’s
one, a Morakniv blade, posed a slight storage issue. wardrobe hinge problem
I came up with a good wheeze: I cut a slit in a block and
then glued the block to the top of the cabinet. The problem I didn’t realise until recently that a ‘non-woody’
was safely holding the drawknife in the slot. Rifling through friend of mine had been searching for months trying
my old restoration box, I found two little brass swing to find pressed steel mounting plates for 26mm
catches. I screwed them loosely in place so I just flick them diameter euro hinges. The original ones fitted to
up to remove or replace the tool and they automatically his wardrobes are made of casting metal, which is
drop downwards again – problem solved. basically quite weak and a couple had snapped apart
Jenna Morrison and the door had to be left demounted. The trouble
is there are so many different hinge versions with
various mounting plates. When he told me he was
in a quandary about what to do, I did a web search
and also drew a blank as I couldn’t find an exact
replacement mounting plate.
However, in a workshop drawer I found some
pressed plates that would fit but the hole alignments
were wrong. So I tried turning one around and
punching and drilling a new hole for the locking
screw. I filed two notches on the screw so it would
wind its way into the steel and cut the thread it
needed. The hinge fitted in the correct place so the
holes in the mounting plate would line up with
the carcass holes. The last problem was the wardrobe
stile was right next to the carcass side, so I just
hacksawed the projecting end of the mounting plate
off so it would fit inside the carcass. My friend was
very pleased to see the door back on his wardrobe.
It has just taken a lot longer to write about than it
did to cut and fit the new plates!
An ingenious storage soluধon Bob Inglis

STAR TIP PRIZE SPONSORED BY RECORD POWER

Record Power, suppliers of high-quality woodworking machinery Power stockist. Find your nearest stockist at www.recordpower.
and accessories, are pleased to be sponsoring the Hints, Tips & co.uk/dealers or call Record Power on 01246 571 020.
Jigs secধon in collaboraধon with GMC Publicaধons. Each issue’s Send your tips to: The Editor, Woodworking Crafts, 86 High
‘Star Tip’ will receive a Record Power voucher to the value of Street, Lewes, East Sussex BN7 1XN.
£75, while all other published ধps will receive a £35 voucher. Alternatively, email:
These vouchers can be redeemed at any authorised Record Anthonyb@thegmcgroup.com

22 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

WWC_16_22_23_HINTS_TIPS_JIGS_COM_AB_bdAB.indd 22 20/06/2016 14:05

 Community

CUTTING REMARKS
Standard polycarbonate sheet from my DIY store can be scored Andy came up
and snapped a bit like glass. However, I got some redundant clear with a way to test
sheet from a factory clearout and it didn’t want to score properly his tablesaw
or snap. Maybe it was acrylic sheet, I’m not sure.
After several experiments, I found that a standard fine-tooth
hardpoint saw worked, but the trick was to hold it at a low angle
to get it to cut properly. I drew a line in felt-tip against a steel rule
and simply followed that. The edge finish wasn’t too bad, just a
coarse sanding block was needed to remove the roughness.
Chris Hamshar

SAW GUIDE
I wanted to be sure my tablesaw was running true (or not)
because I was getting some slightly burnt tooth marks
on the side of timber I was ripping down. I tried using
a combination square in the mitre protractor slot as the
edge will sit in it. Then I rested the end of the rule part
against the TCT tip of a blade at one end of it and then
moved it along to see whether it touched at the other.
In fact there was a slight but definite gap so I now have
to find out how to jiggle the motor mount slightly to align
it. I found I needed to press the stock firmly against the
mitre slot so I could get an accurate measure. If I can sort
the motor mount out, then I should be able to check the
fence for parallel as well.
Cuষng acrylic sheet can be tricky Andy Hayes

LOOSENING YOUR GRIP

I thought when I bought a hook and
loop kit for my big 305mm disc sander
my troubles with trying to remove old
abrasive discs and messy clean-ups would
be over. The idea seems fantastic but
trying to get the old disc off and then
the new one on when there is the fitted
sanding table in the way was a nightmare.
The old disc won’t let go and the new one
would stick too quickly, half off the face
of the sander. I even tried using a steel
rule to slide between the two, to try and
release the contact. The answer came to
me; I found an offcut of worktop laminate
sheet and cut it to disc width and drew
the disc shape at one end. Then I scored
and cracked the waste away and sanded
the edges smooth. Now all I have to do
is push the sheet between disc and plate
and the old disc separates completely so
I can pull it away and then the reverse
operation to mount the new disc
– easy peasy!
Will Evans Sliding a thin piece of shaped laminate behind the disc will separate it completely

By submitting your tips, you agree that GMC Publications may publish your Work in its magazines, websites, electronic or any other mediums known now or invented in the
future. In addition GMC may sell or distribute the Work, on its own, or with other related material. This material must not have been submitted for publication elsewhere.

Woodworking Crafts issue 16 23

WWC_16_22_23_HINTS_TIPS_JIGS_COM_AB_bdAB.indd 23 16/06/2016 14:16

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024_WWC_016.indd 24 6/14/16 9:58 AM

 Hand woodworking

GREEN WOODWORKING
PHOTOGRAPHS BY PETER WOOD

Making a Things you will need

• One travisher blade
• Assorted drills and chisels

travisher
Peter Wood gets to the bottom of Windsor
• Spokeshave

Wood
• One block of hard wood –
sycamore (Acer spp.), ash (Fraxinus
spp.), beech (Fagus spp.), maple
chair seating by making a travisher (Acer spp.), or apple (Malus spp.)

I
n this article, I’m going to show you how to make my favourite tool for
shaping Windsor chair seats. With the travisher, you can rough out a seat blank
very quickly, taking large shavings, or take the finest of shavings for a finishing
cut. It’s the tool that students like to use on my courses and perfect if you want Health & Safety
some texture to any sawn surface that doesn’t need to be planed flat. A medium- If you decide to have a go at making
or heavily-curved travisher will produce a highly textured surface to a rustic shelf one yourself, please be aware of how
or the finest of chair seats. sharp the blade can be. You can cover
You can source old travishers online, but they usually need a lot of remedial the blade with some tape to reduce
work to get them functioning properly, so in this article I’m aiming to enable you the risk of cutting yourself while
to either be able to replace the body of an old travisher you already have, or to making your travisher.
fashion a new body to match a new blade.

Woodworking Crafts issue 16 25

WWC_16_25_28_TRAVISHER_HAND_PW_bdABvsJRPW.indd 25 09/06/2016 11:01

 Hand woodworking

1 Here is a selection of old and new

travishers – the older tools are
darker and have longer handles while
the lighter ones are my own design.
I find this design more comfortable
and it reduces the chance of scraping
your knuckles across the work.

2 Travisher blades can be found in

a number of curves. Working from
left to right we have, a No.6, No.4 and
No.3, the number denoting the degree
of curvature. It can be useful to have a
range of curves, but the middle curve
No.4, works in most situations, so if
I was only making one travisher that
would be the curve to use.
1
3 The tangs are at 90° to the blade
and tapered, so with careful fitting
you should aim to create a friction-fit,
which will hold the blade secure when
using, but is easily knocked out when
you need to sharpen the blade.

4 I have used a nice block of

sycamore which is hard wearing
and good for the travisher body.
This block is 140 x 70 x 180mm.
From this I should be able to make
three travisher bodies approximately
45 x 70 x 180mm. Reduce the size
to 35mm if needed. If fitting the
No.6 blade, you will need to increase
the depth of the body. 2

5 First, plane the block smooth

and square on the sides as well,
so you start out with an accurately-
prepared workpiece.

6 Use the blade as a template

for marking. On the wider face,
mark the centre point of each tang.
The blade needs to be seated in the
middle of the block.
3 4

5 6

26 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

WWC_16_25_28_TRAVISHER_HAND_PW_bdABvsJRPW.indd 26 09/06/2016 11:02

 Hand woodworking

7 8 9

7 Turn the block over to the

adjoining face with the tangs
lining up with your previous marks
and draw in the curve of the blade.

8 The tangs of your blade may be

different to mine, but I’ve used
a range of bits from 7mm to 9.5mm.
A cordless drill or bit and brace work
well when drilling the tang holes, but
if you have a pillar drill, it does make
life a lot easier still.

9 My drilling point for the tangs was

20mm from the back of the body.
This gave a nice sole on front of the
10 11

blade and enough ‘body’ behind to

hold the tangs. Drill a pilot hole with
your smallest dill bit and check that
a file to open up the tapered hole.
Note this will result in a tight fit. 12 Start by sawing slots out of the
waste and then use a chisel to
cut the waste away.
the holes line up.
11 Once the blade is seated,
remove the blade and cut out
13 Knock away most of the waste

10 Work the tangs into the holes

by gradually increasing the
diameter of the hole. As the diameter
the previously-marked curve. With the
body curved, enlarge the tang holes
again until the blade sits onto the
using the chisel and mallet,
using the chisel to pare away the rest
of it. You need a smooth surface where
of each drill bit increases, reduce the wood. You can now mark the outline the shavings will travel away from the
depth of cut and you will end up with of the blade. The wood inside the line body. Shavings will catch on any rough
a tapered hole. For the final fit use is waste and needs to be removed. areas and quickly clog up the travisher.

12 13

Woodworking Crafts issue 16 27

WWC_16_25_28_TRAVISHER_HAND_PW_bdABvsJRPW.indd 27 09/06/2016 11:02

 Hand woodworking

14 Next, use a small chisel to chop

out the area where the tang
meets the blade. Care is necessary
to avoid chipping out the slot.

15 Check again to see if the blade

is seated properly, it should fit
tightly fit, needing a sharp tap with a
small hammer above each tang to
seat fully. I like to have a small throat
between the sole of the wooden
body and the blade. This gives a much
cleaner cut, but if you’re after rapid
stock removal, carefully pare away
more wood, opening the throat. Use a
spokeshave to clean up the saw marks,
14
adjusting the curve to finally match
the curve of the blade to the body.
The sole of the travisher should slope
slightly away from the blade edge.

16 Once happy with the shape,

round off the corners and
smooth all edges. Remove some of
the travisher body until you’re content
with how it feels in your hands.

17 The travisher takes a little

getting used to, but you can
control the depth of cut by rolling your
hands forwards, riding on the sole, for
a shallower cut. By pushing the tool 15
away from you and rolling your hands
forward as you come to the end of the
cut, the cut then lightens until it stops
cutting. This can be done with the
travisher askew for a more slicing cut.

18 By rolling your hands

backwards, the tool then rides
on the blade for a deeper, more
aggressive cut, so it will then dig in.
With a little practice and fettling of the
travisher shape, it is a joy to use. ■

16 17
Peter Wood
Peter has been a
skilled green wood
craftsperson making
Windsor chairs and
other creations for over 25 years.
He demonstrates these skills around
the country, gives lectures and
runs hands-on workshops for all
ages. He set up Greenwood Days
in the National Forest as a centre
to teach a range of traditional and
contemporary crafts. He is currently
the world champion pole-lathe
turner!
Web: www.greenwooddays.co.uk
18

28 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

WWC_16_25_28_TRAVISHER_HAND_PW_bdABvsJRPW.indd 28 16/06/2016 14:16

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ZŽďƵƐƚ͘ĞĐĂƵƐĞƚŚĞŵĂŬŝŶŐŵĂƩĞƌƐ͘

029_WWC_016.indd 29 6/17/16 3:01 PM

 Hand woodworking

Tools used
• Veneer tape and dispenser
• Hotplate and bain-marie or similar
• Very fine drill bits and drill
• Short and long arm piercing saws
• Very fine piercing saw blades
• ‘V’ block support
• Scalpel
• Tablesaw
• Straps clamps and corner blocks
• Router and router table
• Straight and core box cutters
• Chisels – various sizes
• Squares – various sizes
• Mitre saw
PHOTOGRAPHS BY LOUISE BIGGS

• Drill guide or drill stand

• Drill bits
• Dovetail/gents saw
• Junior hacksaw

Wood
• Cherry (Prunus avium)

World War I
• Sycamore (Acer pseudoplatanus)

commemorative box
Louise Biggs ome years ago my father received various family papers and among them

makes a beautiful
commemorative box,
S was an envelope marked ‘Letters 1916’. Inside were letters from my great-
grandmother, Maud to my great-grandfather, Charles who, like many, was
away at war. There were letters from three of their children, birthday cards, plus
several other documents and photographs.
in memory of her Two letters, folded very small on a different paper, stood out. Once unfolded
and read, they were the letters sent from the field hospital chaplain in France,
great-grandfather notifying Maud that her husband had died from his wounds. 100 years later,
it was time to treat the letters with respect, so the idea for a commemorative box
was born. The medals and Essex Regiment Cap badge date from WWI, but they
are only representative of those Charles would have worn and been awarded.
The box was to be veneered in cherry with coloured sycamore veneers forming
the marquetry.

Right: Private
Pri
riva
vatte Charles John Colley
1st
1st Bat
1s B
Ba
Battalion
attt
tta
a Essex Regiment
25
25 June,
Jun
une, e, 1878 – 4 July, 1916
Died
Die
ed a
ass a rresult
esul
es ult of
of w wounds
ou
o u sustained at the
Battle
Batt
Ba ttle
le o
off th
tthe
he S Somme, 1 July, 1916

30 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

WWC_16_30_34_COMMEMORATIVE_BOX_bdABLBjr.indd 30 16/06/2016 14:18

 Hand woodworking

Poppy marquetry blades. With a ‘V’ support cramped

1 Having worked out the size of box

required, the next stage was to
work out a suitable poppy design for
in a vice the blade was passed through
the packet, which was then rested on
the support with downward pressure
the marquetry, which would grow applied by one hand while turning the
up the front and across the top. packet to follow around the design.

2 Several marquetry packets were

formed as the grain direction
of the veneers would represent the
5 Once each element had been cut
out the pieces were laid out on
a board. Working in reverse, each
different petals and leaves. I used a element was taped together using the
slightly different method to how I have different grain directions and saw cuts
cut marquetry before but one, timely to highlight the curves and bends of The letters to be stored in the box
described by Amber Bailey in issue 241 the petals and leaves.
of Furniture & Cabinetmaking, along
with other useful tips. In between the
layers of veneer and waste veneers
there was a layer of paper (papier
6 With all the elements formed,
minus the stalks, they were laid
in position and then mounted onto
suiffe) coated in animal fat. I had the main veneers for the front and
always used beeswax to lubricate the top. As with cutting out the marquetry
blade but this method worked much packets, small holes were drilled at key
more efficiently. points and using the jewellers saw each
element was cut round and inserted

3 With the packets formed and the

design mounted on the top, the
into the main veneer.

smallest hole possible was drilled at

key points of the design to allow the
blade to pass through.
7 The stalks were then cut from
the veneers and positioned before
being cut into the main veneers with
a scalpel. The top and front veneers

4 In the absence of a marquetry

donkey I have always used
jewellers piercing saws with the finest
were taped together so the positions
of the stalks met at the front top
edge of the box.
1

2 3 4

5 6 7

Woodworking Crafts issue 16 31

WWC_16_30_34_COMMEMORATIVE_BOX_bdABLBjr.indd 31 09/06/2016 11:04

 Hand woodworking
Plywood core with multiple layers of
Display frame divider mitred at top
veneer on top, balancing veneer below SECTION
and tenoned into front and back
and framed with mitred rebated timber
5 225 5

15 25

11

100
29 13
206

2
8
235

Drawers formed using lapped dovetails,

bottoms rebated into frame all round,
sides hung on runners into stopped rebates

Inner side pieces carry drawer runners

and support display frame

Plywood veneered sides, mitred at back,

left square at front for hinged door

5 325 5
5 10 10 10 5
13 135 4 135 13

24

290
7

Mitred bottom front rail

Veneered plywood bottom Pivot hole finished

rebated into sides and back with ebony plug 325
335
Section stepped to show drawer front SECTION

Box construction router and moving from the edge in square as the front of the box will drop

8 Next, the lid of the box and the

piece for the inner inscription
had to be prepared so they could be
so as to always have the router base
supported. The third layer was the
main veneer. The inner piece was
down. The inside faces of the box sides
were then veneered before the rebates
were cut for the top panels.
inscribed. These areas needed three veneered and counterbalanced.
layers of veneer so the inscription
could be cut deep enough to pick up
the wispy ends of the characters of the 9 The ply to form the box was cut
and the back corners and front
10 A 10mm thick bottom front
rail was mitred and cut into
the bottom front edge of the sides.
font I prefer. The lid had two layers top corners mitred using a tablesaw. When the box was glued up a pin
inset into the ply top cut out using a The front edges on the base were left was inserted to strengthen the joint.

8 9 10

32 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

WWC_16_30_34_COMMEMORATIVE_BOX_bdABLBjr.indd 32 09/06/2016 11:04

 Hand woodworking

11 A thin tongue-and-groove was

formed with the router to join
the bottom panel to the front rail,
a 3mm sight edge where the medals
and inscription would be fitted. As this
would leave only a small edge when
16 Before going any further the
cap badge and medals were
mounted, so as not to cause any
keeping it flush on the top to allow for routing out the rebate, two supporting damage, onto card covered in faux
a fabric lining to the bottom at the end. pieces of timber were taped to the suede. Once mounted, the inscription
With the rail glued in position to the router fence. plate was cut to size and both were
bottom panel this was veneered before fitted into the frame. ‘Bendits’, which
a rebate was cut to fit the bottom to the
sides and back. The router was set up
using a test piece to check the position
15 The frame was cut and mitred to
fit tightly within the box before
a centre division was rebated into the
are sometimes used in picture framing,
were inserted to hold both the panels
in place, so when the box was finished
of the groove to the rebate on the frame while allowing the front face to they could easily be put in place as
bottom panel to make sure it would be mitred. The frame could then be with limited space screws or pins were
align with the rail. screwed into place holding the top not going to be possible.
front edges of the box square.

12 The box was glued up with a

spacer piece to hold the top
front of the base in line. The inner
edges were then veneered followed by
the back, then the sides and lastly the
front. The main front veneer was cut
using a sharp scalpel and straightedge
to separate the pieces for the lid
and base. The lid’s front veneer was
positioned and clamped into place.
The positions of the marquetry were
marked on the block so the top veneer
could be aligned and laid, taped into
position on the front edge, only before
being pressed between two boards.
11 12
13 The ply for the door was cut
to size, veneered on the inner
side and edged, the lid was placed on
top and the door aligned so that the
position of the marquetry could be
marked. A tape hinge was put in place
on the top edge to keep the veneer in
position so that it could be lifted and
glued. The remaining overhanging
edge was then carefully cut away to be
glued to the front of the box to keep
the grain pattern following through.

14 With timber prepared for the

inner frame, it was rebated to
leave a 5mm square step on the outer
edge. The inner edge was cut to leave 13 14

15 16

Woodworking Crafts issue 16 33

WWC_16_30_34_COMMEMORATIVE_BOX_bdABLBjr.indd 33 16/06/2016 14:18

 Hand woodworking

17 Two veneered side pieces of ply

were rebated into the sides of
the frame which then allowed a bottom
edge of the box, with the restriction of
the router base, the remainder of the
groove was cut with a carving gouge
small pieces of ebony. These small
plugs were also used to form the
black centres of the poppies. Once the
rail front and back to be jointed and before being veneered. inside of the box was cleaned up and
fitted to allow clearance for the drawer polished, the brass rod could be cut
over the door. When the unit was
glued up it was then wrapped in cling 20 The lock and hinges were fitted
in the same way as those in
to length and the plugs fitted.

wrap/film to stop it sticking to the

box and screwed in position to keep
everything square.
my article in issue 8 of Woodworking
Crafts. With the box together the two
inner drawers were made with lapped
22 The outside was then cleaned
up and polished and the linings
added to the inside of the top and
dovetails cut at the front and through the bottom. It only remains to thank

18 Next, the door was wedged

and taped in position so the
pivot point could be marked and
dovetails at the back. The veneered
bottom was rebated in before being
veneered on the underside. Grooves
Amber for her informative article
and my friend for explaining how to
mount the cap badge and medals. The
drilled. This was worked out on were cut along the sides using a router letters and photographs are now safely
test pieces first, so as not to make and corresponding runners fitted protected for future generations. ■
a mistake. Brass rod 3mm in diameter within the inner frame. A Forstner bit
was used to form the pivot pin. was used to cut the finger hole before
The first hole would be filled with fitting the small handles into a rebate. Louise Biggs
a 7mm plug followed by the 3mm Having completed her

21
hole for the rod passing through the To tie everything together the City and Guilds, Louise
side into the door. Fitted to a drill plug over the pivot point, and trained for a further
guide the holes were drilled upright. the point formed in the finger hole four years at the London
The door was held by magnets, with by the Fortsner bit were plugged with College of Furniture.
She joined a London firm working
small steel screws behind the veneered
for the top antique dealers and
front of the inner frame.
interior designers in London, before
starting her own business designing

19 To allow clearance for the

bottom edges of the door
rounded grooves had to be cut with
and making bespoke furniture and
restoring furniture.
Web:
the router in the front of the rail on www.anthemion-furniture.co.uk
the inner frame and the bottom front

17 18 19

20 21 22
2 2

34 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

WWC_16_30_34_COMMEMORATIVE_BOX_bdABLBjr.indd 34 09/06/2016 11:05

 FORSA SERIES
FORSA 3.0 • 4.0 • 4.1 • 8.0 • 9.0

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Forsa 3.0 - P2 Professional Inc Professional STC + TWE + TLE + Scorer 5.2 / 1.0 / 415v 87 mm x 1.6 m £2,600.00 £3,120.00
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035_WWC_016.indd 35 6/9/16 5:04 PM

 Power woodworking

PLANS
4YOU Wine racks
Simon Rodway shows
you how to squeeze
your wine collection
into a neat and stylish
storage solution

Simon Rodway
Simon Rodway also runs
LineMine, a website
with articles and online
courses on drawing
software. A new course, ‘SketchUp
for Woodworkers’, is proving really
popular. For details and to get discount
coupons, see website details below.
Email: sjr@linemine.com
Web: www.linemine.com/courses

Cutting list
VERTICAL DESIGN
Back: 1 @ 1245 x 210 x 15mm
Sides: 2 @ 866 x 130 x 15mm

MODULAR DESIGN (per module)

Front/back: 2 @ 460 x 124 x 12mm
Vertical sides dovetail jointed
Ends: 2 @ 130 x 124 x 12mm into back centre section. Bottle
Shaped centre
Dividers: 3 @ 106 x 124 x 12mm holes are reversed from one side
section screwed
to the other to allow bottles to be
Brace/foot support: 2 @ 106 x 50 racked from alternate directions
securely to wall
x 12mm
Feet: 2 @ 106 x 25 x 12mm

GEOMETRICALLY-SHAPED DESIGN N
Long sections: 2 @ 405 x 180 x 9mm
Middle sections: 4 @ 306 x 180 x 9mm
m

Simple construction using sliding

interlocking plywood components
quick glance at any catalogue

A or web page selling storage for

your wine bottles will reveal
that wine racks come in a very wide
Centre sections butt
jointed and glued Foot glued to underside
of end brace, which is glued
to end and front and back,
and pinned if painting
variety of sizes, colours and shapes.
The three examples I’ve put together
here represent a small cross section of
those types. As well as differences in
appearance of course, some variation
in method of storage is also possible,
and with that in mind, I’ve included Rack ends dovetail jointed
a wall-mounted, vertical rack, a into from and back

modular design which can be stacked

and a simple, geometrically-shaped
rack, which is more sculptural in look.

36 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

WWC_16_36_37_PLANS_FOR_YOU_WINE_BOTTLE_CATEGORY?_SR_bdABjr.indd 36 16/06/2016 14:19

 Power woodworking

Wall-mounted, vertical design

With space at a real premium in many homes these days,
wine rack designs which not only can be hung from a wall, 83 205
but can also fit in awkward corners or alcoves where height
can be used to an advantage, have become increasingly 15
popular. Whether or not you stick with the wine bottle
shape on the wall-mounted type I’ve drawn, is up to you.
It is a very simple thing to adapt this to your own design, 154
but the principle of a single section screwed to the wall
and two vertical sections dovetail jointed to it along either
edge, holds good.
I’ve shown the holes for the neck and body of the wine
bottles alternating on each side, which means they would
be reversed in turn up the rack and the weight is more Ø80
evenly distributed. The holes on the vertical rack are really 56
only for standard wine bottle sizes, as sparkling wine bottles
generally have a slightly larger diameter around the body,
Ø40
and also the neck. 1245
56
This rack uses 15mm plywood, but you could quite easily
210
use slightly thicker, solid timber instead. To get an even
and symmetrical shape for the back, make a half template, 130
trace the outline on one side and flip it over. The neck could
866
have a hook or two added to hold corkscrews and other
useful accessories. I’ve shown a nominal four fixings to the
wall, in a vertical line, but adapt this to suit and space them
102
horizontally if required.

Modular design 102

The second rack of the trio is a stacking, modular type,
all made from 12mm plywood or solid timber of similar
thickness, and is essentially an open box with a dovetail
joint at either end, butt jointed vertical dividers which are
glued in place and small horizontal braces at the bottom
corners to carry the feet and stop the box racking. Although 76
R50
I have also shown these braces with a butt joint as well, this
should be strengthened by pins if you are painting the rack. Opposite side of rack has holes
If not, I would suggest adding a small stopped rebate along in reversed order, same centres
180
the bottom edge of the box ends to glue the brace into,
so that the weight from each foot on the bottom module 99 108
9
is transferred to the strong carcass of the box. The feet of 90
course also act as locators when the boxes are stacked, and 306 90 306
need to be sized and sited accurately at the ends so that they 9
9 405

fit snugly inside the box below. 90 306

The modular design should fit larger bottles and uses the 405 9
90

same diameter hole front and back so that only the body 90 9
of the bottle sits inside the rack. Repetitive cutting of holes 108
108
which are generally of a bigger diameter than usual could
pose a bit of a problem, especially if you don’t happen to Three sizes shown here
460 130
have something like a hole saw in your tool kit. However,
hole saws are available for under £10 online, so this might Ø90

be a worthwhile investment at this point. Alternatively, a 124

good old coping saw will do the job, albeit a bit more slowly!
12 12 12
Geometrically-shaped design
25 106
12 100 100 100 100 12
The third rack uses slightly thinner, 9mm plywood, and RACK DETAILS
although it is really simple in construction, needs to be
accurately set out and cut. I have drawn what is essentially 50

a template for the components, and you can see from the
elevation that there are only three sizes in length: 108, 306
and 405mm. These all have slots of 90mm depth (half the inserted at 90° to this and from the back. The interlocking
depth of the rack) as shown. In the case of the smallest structure provides the strength, so simple glued butt joints
component, the slots become notches along the leading are sufficient throughout. Painting would be my preferred
edges. Essentially, one ‘family’ of components is angled finishing method on this rack, helping to hide the joints
one way and inserted from the front, and a mirror set is and enhancing the crispness of the shape. ■

Woodworking Crafts issue 16 37

WWC_16_36_37_PLANS_FOR_YOU_WINE_BOTTLE_CATEGORY?_SR_bdABjr.indd 37 16/06/2016 14:19

 Kit & Tools

KITTED OUT
Take a look at the tools, gadgets and gizmos that
we think you will enjoy using in your workshop
Tormek T-8
The T-8 provides the best design
possible for successful sharpening.
Tormek have integrated the
previously-mounted sleeves for
the Universal Support into the
fully cast housing, guaranteeing
minimal play and improving
control when sharpening, which
ultimately increases the accuracy
of the final results. The efficient
drive system maintains a constant
speed, even under full load and
the user can sharpen all qualities of
£499.96 steel, including HSS (high speed steel).
The SE-77 upgraded jig is used for square-
edge tools, and it now has a movable
Contact: BriMarc side that allows for fine adjustment of
Tel: 03332 406967 the setting, ensuring a 90° corner or the
Web: www.brimarc.com option to create a shape with a camber.

Printmaking micro tool set

The set comprises six mixed-profile micro £106.46
tools of 1.5mm, including MT11 chisel, MT15
skew, MT19 sweep, MT27 deep U, MT31
45° vee and MT39 90° vee. These tools are
exceptionally useful for cleaning up ridges
created by gouge cuts or getting in to tight
corners. They are particularly good for carving
fine details such as mouths and eyes or adding
texture such as hair, fur and feathers.
They are fitted with comfortable ash handles
and each has an overall length of 142mm.

Contact: BriMarc
Tel: 03332 406967
Web: www.brimarc.com

MINI TEST
£25–45
Crown-registered morধse chisels
These are a range of 10 sizes of traditional registered mortise chisels,
featuring lacquered ash handles with double steel hoops to prevent splitting.
The ground square section blade is fitted by a tang into the handle with a
leather washer in between to reduce shock when struck with a mallet.

Verdict
If you need something heavier duty than a standard bevel chisel, that will chop
out nice square mortises, then these will suit you fine. They are designed for
taking a beating with a mallet. They have a steeper bevel than normal; I found
the backs didn’t require flattening first when putting an edge on them. Blade
widths are available from 6 to 51mm. Good beefy chisels for serious work. Visit: www.crownhandtools.ltd.uk

38 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

WWC_16_38_39_KITTED_OUT_K&T_BD_vsABjr.indd 38 09/06/2016 11:11

 MINI TEST
Makita DHS680 18V brushless circular saw
Makita have a vast portfolio of short sections plus
powertool products and some recent connectors are a better
additions really stand out, like this proposition.
brushless model. The lack of brushes I do have one
means the motor can deliver more gripe: those Makita
power and a higher no-load speed saws which have a
than a traditional cordless tool of the dedicated guide rail
same configuration. It is a powerful slot are fine, but some
saw and capable of a wide range of like the DHS680 need
tasks with its 165mm diameter rip an adaptor. This is
blade. With a guide rail adaptor, it can okay, except it comes
work with Makita’s guide rails, which with two short-pressed
come in 3 and 1.4m lengths, plus steel connectors
connector and clamps. In theory, and only one gets
with suitable work supports, you have clamped. With the
an on-site combination that can tackle other one being short,
full panel cutting as well as cutting the saw tends to ‘yaw’ £532.80
through 57mm timbers. It has a flip from side to side,
away tool hanger and ‘fuel gauge’. reducing the precision
otherwise inherent in guide rail • Accessories supplied include
Verdict control. The simple answer is to MakPak case, 2 x 4Ah Li-ion battery,
A nice machine, with loads of staying make one connector long enough guide fence, fast charger
power. Of course if you want dust so it reaches the other clamp.
extraction then you still have the Are you listening, Makita?
inconvenience of a hose and a need Prices: £532.80
of a mains supply. The guide rail Technical specificaধons • 1.4m guide rail £55.20
system is as good as any other brand, • No load speed 5000 rpm • 3m guide rail £132.60
but the fixed 3m rail poses handling • Blade diameter 165mm • guide rail adaptor £51
and storage problems and could • Max cut depth 57mm 0°/41mm 45° Visit: www.makitauk.com
get damaged, whereas two of the • Weight 3.3kg

Arধsan safety razor kit Contact: Craft Supplies USA

Featuring solid brass components throughout and a full-sized Tel: (001) 800 551 8876
handle that can be trimmed to length if desired, these razors Web: www.woodturnerscatalog.com $34.95
accept all standard double-edge shaving blades and arere
compatible with most razor stands. The exclusive
threaded rod design of the Artisan Safety Razor Kit
allows you to disassemble the handle as needed for
cleaning or refinishing. Turn the body of the razor
on a standard pen mandrel using a set of bushings.

MINI TEST

Sধx Waterborne Bonding Primer

This is a premium quality acrylic display packaging, the other was clean £34.50
urethane primer sealer which is white glossy tile. I found the coating
claimed to adhere to hard-to-coat would adhere in both cases, but could
surfaces. It is certainly a heavy tin, be scraped back with a fingernail from
suggesting a high concentration of both surfaces. I then used 240 grit
solids, which do require thorough abrasive on other face of the plastic
stirring to ensure they are at an even and coated that. This time the dried Stix
consistency. Being waterborne means wouldn’t budge at all. The advantage
low toxicity and brushes are very over other primers is the density and
easy to clean up using warm water. propensity of the material to cling all
over a surface that might normally reject
Verdict some other materials. So it will hold
For this test I tried two ‘difficult’ on glossy surfaces, but is immovable Prices: £34.50 for 946ml
surfaces: one was shiny clear plastic on those with matted surfaces. Visit: www.generalfinishes.co.uk

Woodworking Crafts issue 16 39

WWC_16_38_39_KITTED_OUT_K&T_BD_vsABjr.indd 39 09/06/2016 11:11

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 Community

The BESPOKE

PHOTOGRAPHS BY MIKE ROWLAND & SON

WHEELWRIGHT
The trade has been
in decline since the
early 1900s but Mike
Rowland & Son, home
to the world’s only
father-and-son Master
Wheelwrights, is ahead
of the curve, finds
Catherine Kielthy
f they hailed from the animal

I kingdom, they’d undoubtedly be

protected under the Endangered
Species Act. Why, they might even
warrant an online petition and a
mention in parliament. As it is the
UK’s largely unsung and sadly all-too-
small band of wheelwrights rolls on
unsung. Among this age-old breed is
Devon-based company Mike Rowland
& Son. The reference may at first
appear derogatory, but fear not. It is,
instead, a matter of historical fact. For
this wheelwright to the Queen has a
lineage that goes back nearly 700 years.
“My dad, Mike, started this business
in its current form in 1964,” explains
master wheelwright Greg Rowland,
“but it’s traced in our family in a direct
line back to 1331. We skipped a few
generations in the 1700s and during
the two world wars, but we’ve got
the records since the early days
because our forebears made the carts
and wagons that carried the stone
destined for Exeter Cathedral.”
An impressive lineage and a royal
warrant, about which Greg remains
furiously tight-lipped, divulging only
that the firm ‘generally does any
wheels and repairs to the vehicles
as and when they are requested to
by the head restorer at the team at
Buckingham Palace Mews. All the
painting and upholstery is done
up there.’ These aren’t the only things
marking the Rowlands out from the

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 Community

Felloe patterns hanging in the rafters Wheels in various stages

of restoration and build in
Mike Rowland & Son’s workshop

crowd either. At a time when fewer

than 50 wheelwrights are listed by The
Worshipful Company of Wheelwrights,
Greg and Mike can boast that they are
the world’s only father-and-son master
wheelwrights. No easy feat given the
accolade is only awarded to those who
have been in the trade for 10 years,
who earn their living at it and who
show exemplary work within it.
“The fact that me and dad are
masters is lovely, as is the fact he got
his after me!” laughs Greg, but quickly
goes on to explain the unexpected
timing. “Although dad is still fully
involved in the company, as the lead
partner I was granted my royal warrant
in 2011 [only one person at a firm
Greg tightens looks after the warrant at any given
the wheel to the time; Mike received the honour in
bonding plate 2005]. Also, to have an apprentice,
you have to be a master and I was
responsible for training our new
recruit George Richards. So, in 2014,
I became a master. And then this year
dad became a master in recognition
of his lifetime in the trade.”
We laugh about Greg and Mike
as Masters of the Universe, but the
achievement is awe-inspiring. And
it’s no fluke. It’s taken blood, sweat
and determination, especially given
that Mike launched the business at
a time when the trade was on its
knees. “Back in ’64–’70 nobody was
doing it,” explains Greg. “There
were the old wheelwrights, but no
new people because there wasn’t
a future in it – everything went to
motor vehicle bodies.” But Mike,

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 Community

who served his apprenticeship with

Hansfords in Honiton, could see a
way through the gloom. Today, the
company builds and restores around A Mike Rowland & Son-built
200 wheels a year, making it one of brewer’s dray after a service
the UK’s top wheelwrights. “To survive
as a wheelwright you have to have a
spectrum that is broader than making
cart wheels, wagon wheels and cannon
wheels from start to finish. We are
also coach builders and can produce
a complete vehicle from the ground
up. Our brewers’ drays are completely
made here, from the bare wood and
the length including finishing, painting,
the lot. You end up with fully horse-
drawn working vehicles like the drays
and wagons for which we’re famous.”

Green credentials
Environmental factors have also
climbed the priority list. “There is
traditional timber set out for wheels
and we use English wherever we can
depending on availability. I do buy
in some timber if I haven’t got what I
need. And if I’m being honest, I think
that’s normally American. But we keep
a wide berth from rainforest timber
because it’s just not ethical. A lot of
restoration work used to demand
iroko, but people are shying away
from that, too, because some of its
sources can’t be truly verified. We do
use sapele – as people would know it’s
poor-man’s mahogany – as it looks nice Several fire engine wheels have been worked on by the
in a vehicle when it’s finished and it’s Rowlands, including those for the Wiltshire Fire and
environmentally friendly. We also have Rescue service wheeled escape here and a set for a
a shavings-burnings stove in the ’shop, 1880 hand-drawn emergency vehicle (inset images)
so all the shavings are swept up and

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 Community

Hot wheels – and how to make them

With a wooden cart wheel, Greg starts by turning
the nave or hub – generally seasoned elm. Marks
are then applied where the oak spokes are to be
mortised into the hub. The mortises are angled for
the spokes, which are dished, or slanted outwards
from the centre. Tenons are sawn (if square) or a
hollow augur is used (if round). The spokes are
shaped with a drawknife and spokeshave and then
carefully driven into the hub. The ash felloes, i.e.,
the band-sawn shaped blocks that make up the
rim of the wheel, are bored and dowels fitted
to hold them together. The felloes are then
positioned onto the spokes with a spoke-dog tool.
Next the wheel’s circumference is measured and
Greg calculates how much needs to be taken away
(this is done by adding all the gaps that have to
close together and then adding ‘the nip’ or the
amount to shrink it). The iron tyre hoop is then
bent with a roller and cut to length. The ends of
the iron are welded together before Greg and his
father Mike place it in a fire. Mike and his wife
Doreen wait for the hoop to reach the right
heat – which Greg describes as a dull cherry
temperature or just hot enough to burn wood if it
touches (never white hot as the tyre would melt
or buckle and twist). When it’s ready, Greg and
Mike remove the hoop and it is fitted over the
wheel as quickly as possible. Mike uses tyre dogs
to pull the tyre over the wheel, while Greg taps
with a sledgehammer as soon as it is in place and
Doreen holds it securely with a heavy steel tamper
so that the men don’t end up chasing themselves.
The wheel is cooled with water and the hot
expanded metal contracts and shrinks with the
cold, pulling everything together under massive
pressure. Greg rolls away the finished wheel.

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 Community

burned to convert into energy to heat

mum and dad’s flat which is above the
’shop! Nothing is wasted.”
Even with expertise, experience
and environmental factors ticked off,
the firm needs to be innovative and
adaptable to survive. “I also specialise
in guns and cannons and get a lot of
work from the military. I have work for
various gun restorations and private
customers’ gun collections.”

Heavy metal
This specialism links into Greg’s former which is the very opposite of built-
career. “I joined the army when I was in obsolescence. “When we make
16. By trade, I was a vehicle mechanic, something it doesn’t break or wear out.
but I also learned blacksmithing. When So you don’t get it back in to repair it.
I left the army I set up a blacksmith Also, we use modern techniques, such
forge and then, when I was 21 or 22, as roller bearings, so we’re sort
moved back to dad’s workshop and did of doing ourselves out of a job really.
an apprenticeship. But I also brought It’s always about generating new
the metalworking in-house. Everything business and new customers.”
about making wheels for carriages, Some of the firm’s previous projects
wagons and cannons uses metalwork have involved commissions for BBC2’s
and it’s a major way in which we differ mini-series Gormenghast, for which the
from a traditional joiner’s shop – we team had to make 10ft-high, watertight
produce rather than buy things in. And barrels; a request to make all the
we’re always making tools for different barrels and buckets for hit 2000 film
jobs because the tools and machinery Gladiator; and making the wooden
we need are gone.” bicycle wheels for C4 show How
Perverse as it may seem, another Britain Worked. Greg also enjoys
factor affecting the business is the his gun and cannon commissions,
sheer robustness of the team’s work, but whatever the work, the process

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 Community

Above: A cadet cannon set tailored to

enable 11–18 year olds to participate
in a form of the Navy’s field gun run

Left: Apprentice
George Richards hones
his skills in the workshop

One of a pair of Showman’s caravans

built from scratch by the Rowlands

is time-consuming and complicated.

A general wagon wheel, for instance,
might take Greg, his dad and George a
day and a half to make; a full set of four
wheels would take one wheelwright
about seven days to complete. It’s hard,
physical labour, but 79-year-old Mike
is still working full-time. “He’s down at
7.30am every day – and he might only
work until 4pm… I don’t poke him
with a stick, but I do deliberately give
him things to do. I’ve only got 25 years’
knowledge, you see, whereas he has
more than 50 years behind him.”
Behind the wheel
‘It's all great’ In its solid form the wheel dates
Looking to the future, Greg is back to between 5000 and 3500BC
optimistic. He has around two years in Mesopotamia. But the structure
work lined up and “no sign of any really began to make inroads with
let-up in business coming in”. And the advent of the spoked wheel, in
he clearly intends to carry on in the existence in Asia Minor by 2000BC,
trade he clearly loves. “There’s always which lightened the structure while
something different, you’re never retaining its strength. From this the 17th century. What has shifted
going to get bored. It is hard, hard time, responsibility for building and dramatically, however, is the demand
work; all wheelwrights have tennis maintaining these spherical wonders – or lack of it – for the wheelwright’s
elbow and bad backs. But there’s so has fallen to the wheelwrights, skills. From a figure of some 23,000
much enjoyment – and seeing an old described by The Worshipful Company wheelwrights at the beginning of the
1902 car going down the road on of Wheelwrights as those who ‘make 20th century, there are now fewer
things you’ve made, or seeing a gun and repair all types of wooden wheels than 50. As The Worshipful Company
fired that you’ve restored, it’s all great.” and the vehicles they go on including of Wheelwrights explains: “With the
carts, carriages, veteran motor cars, development of the first bicycle and
Contact details hand carts, wagons, drays, trollies, then the motor car, not only did the
To enquire about a commission or Romany caravans, traction engine craft rapidly diminish, but also its very
one-day ‘interest’ courses, where living wagons, bicycles, artillery pieces, language has almost been forgotten.”
visitors can get to make and bond a wheelbarrows, traps and wagonettes’.
wheel, go to www.wheelwright.org. With the exception of using more For more details about the history of
uk, email enquiries@wheelwright. commonplace materials, their basic the craft as well as The Worshipful
org.uk or call 01297 552562 means of making wheels for horse- Company of Wheelwrights,
drawn vehicles has changed little since visit www.wheelwrights.org

46 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

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 Power woodworking

Holes drilled either side of pivot through outer frame

848 and into top to allow metal dowel to secure table when in use Reversible table top rotates around
central bolts on both sides

750

94

760 850
Position and section sizes of cross pieces
ILLUSTRATION BY SIMON RODWAY

to suit types of machine in use

PLAN

44

Optional corner blocks to mount

castors and strengthen corner joints Table sits on lockable castors
5 5
44 750 44 850

94 94

532 532 94 720

606

Outer frame braces

FRONT ELEVATION centred on pivot point SIDE ELEVATION
44

94 94

Tip-over
machine table
If you’re in a tight corner then this device could
flipping well work, as Alex Burnett explains
rrespective of the extra 3.7 is having two tools occupying a single tendency for the vertical legs to spread

I metres added to the length of

my workshop it still seems to lack
space and is getting too congested
space with the tip-over table.

Making the table

under the weight of the machines
mounted on the table. Any holes in the
recycled wood were filled up with car
with large tools and other stuff that This is the first table I have made, there body filler, which works very well, and
shouldn’t really be there. The larger will be at least one more to follow. were then sanded down and painted.
things, such as a planer/thicknesser The table is constructed with the two The table is fitted with 100mm swivel
and a 405mm drum sander take up outside rectangles joined together with castor, braked wheels. Taken together
space, so it was time to sort these two mortise and tenon joints, I made these these two items are quite heavy, so as
machines out and make room for some out of recycled 100 x 50mm softwood. well as the spread-resisting mortise and
more miscellaneous stuff. The answer The frame is designed to resist the tenon joints I have added the inverted

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 Power woodworking

When the sander is underneath it sits in

the space between the table frame sides.
The base moves on lockable castors

‘V’ shape to take the weight, which is

concentrated on the two bolts at the
centre of the top rail one each side.
It wasn’t likely the two items were
going to be equal in weight so I just
balanced them on a roller dowel to
find the centre of balance for each and
used that for locating each item on its
respective table. Given the freedom to
decide this is where the table would
finish up, plainly the planer/thicknesser
is heavier than the drum sander so
care had to be taken when revolving
heavy items. Note the two holes on
the top rail and almost matching holes
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALEX BURNETT

on the rotating table. There are knobs

attached to a metal dowel that passes
through the top rail and the rotating
table to hold it securely in place, there
are two holes on each side to allow
for securing from either side.
Another important consideration
when planning such a table was to Rotaধng the table to bring the planer uppermost ready for use. Care is needed
make sure that the extremities of the when rotaধng this load
tools that were to be rotated would
clear the cross rail that joins the two spot with a marker pen. with penny washers at the outside,
rectangular frames together, this was Measuring the distance from the between the table and frame and on
determined by measuring from the pivot point to the furthest point and the inside where they are secured with
point of balance to the furthest point then drawing this radius provides lock nuts. It didn’t really matter what
the tool has from that point. I added confirmation that the tool will rotate size the table was, as long as it was
a couple of inches to allow for the and not interfere with the cross brace. wide enough to be stable and not
distance to the bolt around which the Small discrepancies with clearances top heavy, which could be a problem.
table rotated, which was below the could be overcome by moving the The power leads need sorting out –
point I used to determine the balance bolt holes up a little. you can see them under the table –
point. To find the point of balance, I used long M10 bolts with enough I have now shortened them to stop
I slid a length of dowel under the tool unthreaded shaft to clear the rotating the ends flapping about and avoid the
and rolled it back and forth until I table to prevent the threaded portion danger of them getting damaged as
achieved balance and then marked the cutting into the wood. They are fitted the table is rotated. The planer/

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 Power woodworking

In this case the planer fixing points

weren’t convenient so steel straps were
made up to hold the planer base securely
on the table

The all-important pivot point with bolts

and washers. Note the red paint used to
indicate a finger trapping risk

thicknesser has a dust collection

attachment. I need to find a place to
attach it on the planer side of the table
to make it available when needed as Swapping over to the drum sander,
well as being out of the way when not which is perpendicular to the planer feed
needed. This photo above shows the direcধon. Note the planer mains cable
table with the sander on top and the wrapped around the infeed table
red paint to warn of finger trapping
danger. The sander is operated at right
angles to the planer/thicknesser. Note
also the size of the table in relation to Alex Burnett
the tools mounted on it, they are at Joining the army at
fairly close tolerances to prevent the 16, Alex later became a
table getting too large. Because of the Yeoman of the Guard,
inconvenient location of the mounting completing some 25
bolts for the sander, I had two brackets years on the active list. He was
made, which slipped through the presented with the Royal Victorian
unit and were bolted in place on the Medal by Her Majesty the Queen,
appropriate cross beam. for his duties with the Yeomen of the
I have been using the table for a Guard. He also joined the Defence
few months now and all seems well, Courier Service after leaving the
of course I have managed to fill up the army. In the intervening time, he has
space gained leading to my next tip- refurbished a cottage in Cornwall and The sander now ready for use. The two
over table! Good luck with yours and completed a woodworking course. locking pins that keep the table fixed are
please MIND YOUR FINGERS. ■ visible on the table frame

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 Community
Travellers Candle

Swedish Flame
Canadian
Candle Swedish Fire log
Woodland ways Nordic Lumberjack’s Candle
Canadian Swedish
Log Candle FireTorch
When is a Swedish Log Candle
stove not A dry log and a
chainsaw are all you
a stove? need to keep warm and
cook, as Gary Marshall
When it’s finds out
aving had my attention caught

a ‘log’ stove, H at the Weald Woodfair some

years ago by some upright logs
burning away to themselves, I’ve always

of course! fancied seeing if I could use one to

cook on – initial failure…

I saved a couple of seasoned silver birch

logs and further dried them out indoors,
for some months. Using a chainsaw I then
made the customary cross-shaped cuts
these natural stoves require, about three-
quarters of the way through the length
and filled the cuts with flammable wood
chips and dust. To encourage burning
I melted some candle wax into the ‘punk’
(flammable mixture).

Initially, I found the log burned well, but

disappointingly it slowly smouldered and
then went out. This, despite considerable
blowing on and modifying the embers.
I was never going to be able to cook
anything on this.

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 Community

Here’s how I eventually succeeded, stage-by-stage:

PHOTOGRAPHS BY GARY MARSHALL

1 2 3
I visited one of my log piles and selected I gathered lots of dry material (as shown) I set fire to the log and kept feeding the
a dry, well seasoned chestnut log to – dry stems of cow parsley, bramble and cross-shaped cut with dry material until
position in the ground. I cut a cross deep nettle, plus a few small dead dry twigs the flames really got a hold.
into the length of the log, it could have and some papery birch bark.
been cut deeper for a lengthier burn.

4 5
I started cooking – a bit like boy scouts all Eggs-actly as planned, the frying pan was
over again… heating up nicely. 6
With the pan removed you can see how
A burning desire effective the flame really is.
Gary mentioned he saw Swedish
fire logs at the Weald Woodfair
– well I saw them at last year’s
Surrey Hills Wood Fair and I was
impressed, but as Gary has had a
go I didn’t want to be outdone.
I found some pine logs near the
GMC workshop going begging.
I chose ones that weren’t too big
in diameter and cut a long and a The pine seemed very dry, I placed it on our
short piece. I don't have or use a very own ‘pebble beach’ at home and tore up
chainsaw, so I used our big Record some thin strips of dry birch bark, pushing it
bandsaw with a coarse Tuffsaws
7
deep in the cross shaped gaps. It took one
blade intended for cutting wet or match and the birch caught alight immedi- After an hour's burning, my make-do
deep wood to make the cross slots. ately, then waiting pensively I was rewarded stove finally burnt itself out. ■
with the inner corners of the pine starting to
blacken, then glow. Fairly quickly the flame Next month...
took hold, it seemed almost unstoppable. Gary Marshall discusses part III
of a woodland management plan
Eventually it calmed
down enough to boil
a kettle and make tea. Gary Marshall
The next morning the Gary has had a life-long
reduced embers were still interest in woodlands
gradually smouldering and the countryside. He
away to nothing. I’m so
trained in countryside management
agement
impressed I’m going to
and subsequently ran a company
prepare more log candles
working with the local County
for parties or sitting
Councils and Unitary Authority and
outdoors to add warmth
A bit more bark and a their Countryside and Rights of Way
to the late evening air….
match and the log candle Teams, as well as a wide range of
took off like a rocket! The Editor conservation organisations.

Woodworking Crafts issue 16 53

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Kit & Tools

The Record TS250RS tablesaw

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Record A ‘planer’
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easy to
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a general

TS250RS purpose
blade

tablesaw
After 18 months the Editor finally dusts
off his Record TS250RS user report
t’s arguable what the most essential a miscalculation at the factory sheet the swinging support arm which is

I workshop machine should be,

but if you have space and money,
a tablesaw makes so many things
metal bending stage. It wasn’t by very
much, but it took some force with
clamps to bring the holes into line.
inconvenient. It also sits noticeably
higher than the other table surfaces.

possible. We have had this newest At least, once properly seated, Fine tuning
version of the TS250 in the workshop the machine wasn’t going anywhere! Apart from levelling the tables the
for some time and had plenty of use After that, fixing the other components fence slide bar needs setting at
out of it. It comes with a dimensioning such as the switch/socket and tables the right height end-to-end so the
table which can be added or removed wasn’t tricky, apart from extension fence will slide smoothly across both
as required. Fortunately when it first table alignment with the cast table the cast table and the right hand
arrived in 2015, I took a series of using a straightedge for checking. extension. The fence scale is fixed
assembly photos which show what One improvement over the original and cannot be adjusted, but more on
was involved in getting it into action. version we had, was that the sliding that later. There really is nothing else
table fitted with minimal adjustment to to tweak, the table saw is ready to go.
Assembly level it end-to-end. You definitely need
The base and outrigger are fairly help to put the whole thing together Usage
easy to bolt together, then the basic and manoeuvre it into the desired The rip blade that comes with the
machine sits on top of that. What the position in the workshop. If you want machine gives a fair cut but we are fussy
photos show is the fact that the bolt to work without the dimensioning about blades in the GMC workshop.
holes didn’t line up properly due to table, it has to be unbolted from We have a fair selection available

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 Kit & Tools

The base is four parts bolted together

The sliding table sits on adjustable grub screws, the packing pieces in-between not needed

I used clamping to align the Allen bolt holes

The switch block is fl ipped out of the There is a risk of the arbor washer and Slim strips easily get caught around the
casing before screwing in-situ nut disappearing down the chute blade or lower down causing blockages

and usually mount top-grade Irwin to the ripping position which helps. and must be removed to keep the
Marples blades as they give a very good The scale cannot be adjusted which extraction clear.
result. This choice also helped to show is perverse as not all sawblades are the Crown guard extraction rarely works
whether the machine was set up axially same thickness and there is no means well on tablesaws and this one is no
correct, which I’m pleased to say it was. of visual fine setting of the cut although exception. However, my colleague
After trying out the dimensioning fence, it does have fine fence adjustment. Test Derek Jones fitted a powertool
we decided that with space being an cuts are needed for an exact setting extractor to the machine and the
issue, most of the time we wouldn’t use check. It would be possible to file the difference was noticeable, while the
it as we could fit the mitre protractor scale mounting holes to give a degree main outlet delivered waste to our
on the sliding table. of lateral adjustment. large extraction unit.
The most awkward feature is blade
Opinion changing. This should be the easiest Verdict
This machine is very well-behaved, thing, and while removing the infill If space is an issue, an alternative
cutting wood nicely. However, let’s plate is easy enough, like the original would be the version without the
not forget this isn’t a professional model, the plastic housing around the sliding table. Overall, despite several
model, so it lacks certain things you lower part of the blade which feeds gripes, this is a very capable machine
would have on a more expensive the extraction, is quite restrictive to which we use almost daily in the GMC
model. It has adequate motor power the hands when removing and refitting workshop. It is a relatively low-cost
but on maximum thickness solid the arbor nut and plate. If these drop solution compared to the much better-
timber, it can be brought to a halt if down the chute, you need to access specified professional machines.
you feed too quickly or use a blade the extraction pipe from the outside I frequently use it to square off
finer than a rip blade. Certain timbers to retrieve them. To get the best from stock so it can go straight through
like oak are notorious for binding on this machine, it is important to change the portable thicknesser, so it must
a blade; I often whack a wedge into blades to suit the material, so Record be pretty accurate. I think it’s fair to
the cut as it passes the riving knife. really need to look at this issue. Slim say I actually enjoy using it because
The TS250-RS fence can be withdrawn rippings can get lodged in this housing it does what I want it to. ■

56 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

WWC_16_55_56_USER_REPORT_K&T_AB_bdABjr.indd 56 16/06/2016 14:28

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057_WWC_016.indd 57 6/9/16 5:06 PM

 Community

BOOK REVIEWS
This month, Vanessa Sutcliffe reviews
three books for you to enjoy

Building Sheds
by Joseph Truini

These are sheds, but not as we know them! The humble allotment-style UK garden
shed pales into insignificance alongside these American beasts. Even the first
project for a timber-frame garden shed looks more like a roomy summer house.
However, this is by no means a criticism of the book; the reader should not be
daunted by these seemingly ambitious projects. The five designs are stunning
and the process for each is clearly laid out, starting from laying the foundations
through to final finishing techniques. High resolution images, each of which is
numbered and referenced from the text, guide the reader throughout, along with
Helpful Hints and Tool Tips on almost every page. Diagrams provide structural
dimensions, with all measurements given in feet and inches. Further reassurance
on technique and equipment is supplied in side panels that appear regularly
through the book. The Design Details at the end of each project give close-up ISBN: 9781627107709
images with captions, of the finished design. The introductory chapter of the Price: £16.99
book provides an insight to methods and materials for shed-building. Overall, Web: www.thegmcgroup.com
this seems an easy-to-follow and inspiring resource.

Stickmaking Handbook
by Andrew Jones and Clive George

This revised edition is based on the handbook published in 2007. Although

undoubtedly most appealing to stick enthusiasts, this will also become an essential
guide for any amateur craftsperson, interested in learning the techniques involved
in making a range of traditional sticks. The processes are shown in a clear,
straightforward manner, using a wealth of diagrams and photographs. There
is a lovely initial section on the woods used for stick making, with images and
descriptive text for tree identification. Valuable information is provided on where
to source raw materials from and how to cut and season the wood. A total of
21 projects are included, featuring different materials and styles of stick. ISBN: 9781861086389
Price: £10.99
Web: www.thegmcgroup.com

Best Tips on Finishing, Sharpening, Gluing, Storage and more

by the Editors, Contributors and Readers of Fine Woodworking

Woodworkers are always on the lookout for clever tips or new twists on
techniques. As with other Fine Woodworking publications, this book is compiled
from the perspective of sharing knowledge between all levels of woodworker.
The wide range of tips included are derived from the Methods of Work column,
featured in Fine Woodworking magazine since 1976. The tips are given under a
comprehensive list of chapter headings and sub-headings, which help to direct the
reader to exactly the section they need. Jim Richey suggests in his Introduction,
that users of the book will be led to exclaim, “I wish I thought of that.” Clear
images and beautifully simple diagrams enhance the concise blocks of text under
each subject. It is pleasing to see that no distinction is shown between tips given
by professional or amateur woodworkers. This collection of woodworking ideas ISBN: 9781600853388
will certainly become a useful reference for any workshop. Price: £14.99
Web: www.thegmcgroup.com

58 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

WWC_16_58_BOOK REVIEWSvsAB.indd 58 20/06/2016 14:35

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 Community

WOODWORKING GEOMETRY
Simon Rodway takes a look at formwork for arches
ne of the biggest challenges in building arches how to build the timber-supporting structures or

O from masonry, lies in providing temporary

support whilst construction proceeds. It took
the engineering expertise of the Romans to really
formwork required. The simplest type of ‘form’
or support is the turning piece, which is just a shaped
section of timber. However, arches with a greater span
develop this technique. The mighty aqueducts and and rise than simple door-sized openings, will usually
domes we associate with Roman civilisation would require the construction of a ‘centre’ or framework,
have been impossible if they had not first learned examples of which are shown below. ■

Top laggings bevelled

in Gothic arch centre
Ribs Laggings

Plate

SEGMENTAL ARCH GOTHIC ARCH Tie ELIPTICAL ARCH

SETTING OUT A GOTHIC ARCH

T
Establish the rise, Set a compass or Use a hardboard template the same
draw lines from Rise trammel point at depth as the rib to take its outline
the springing to Midpoint points P and draw curve from the drawing.
the top of the rise, arcs through T on
square a line down each side to join
from midpoints Springing points B and C
to intersect the
baseline.
Base line P B C P

SETTING OUT AN ELLIPTICAL ARCH

Draw a line perpendicular With the trammel or compass point on T, draw Moving the pencil inside the stretched string, draw
from the midpoint of the two arcs to intersect the base line, at B and C. an arc using the string as a guide and keeping
base line (springline) to Place a nail or screw firmly in the board at B outward tension on it throughout. Rib outlines
the top of the rise (T). Set and C and also at T, and stretch a piece of string can be transferred in the same way as the Gothic
the radius of the trammel or from B through T to C (green line), securing at arch, traced onto a hardboard template.
compass to half the length ends B and C. Replace the nail at T with a pencil
of the base line (M-P) T T
Rise

Base line
P B M C B C

Skewback; the angle from For smaller spans with a relatively

which the arch springs Spring line Folding wedges small rise, simple turning pieces,
a shaped solid timber section, can
T be used, paired up for deeper arches.
If the arch is too deep for this, a
M TURNING PIECE
P S P simple centre can be constructed,
as long as the rise and span remain
small, with ribs at 300mm centres,
and noggins between to prevent
twisting.
To set out this type of arch, establish
the span and bisect the baseline up DOUBLE
to the top of the rise (T) and also TURNING PIECE
downwards. Draw a line from T
to the springing point P.
Bisect this line with a perpendicular Hardboard or ply
B Strut
from the midpoint M and where it
intersects the centre line is the centre
Prop or striking point of the arch. Lines
drawn from B through P on either Plate
side give the angle of the skewback.
Laggings
SETTING OUT AND CONSTRUCTION
Ribs
OF A SIMPLE SEGMENTAL ARCH CENTRE (for deeper arches)

60 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

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 Community

The semi-circular formwork shown here produces an arch seen so often in Roman architecture and
engineering that it has given its name to the shape. The Romans were not the first to construct
arches and domes of this type, and examples dating back to 2500BC have been found in the
Sumerian city state of Ur, amd in the ancient Etruscan area of Italy that pre-dates the rise of
Roman engineering.

In a semi-circular arch, the framed “centre” has a rise half the length of the span. For smaller
span arches, simpler structures with a few ribs (see Segmental centre here) are sufficient, but
as the span increases the complexity of the construction and the number of ribs required
increases, with the addition of struts to increase the rigidity.The semi-circular cente shown
here is designed for a span of up to 3.5 metres approximately.

Plywood stretched and

ELEVATION OF SEMI-CIRCULAR fixed over laggings
FORMWORK (ROMAN ARCH)
Laggings fixed over
and between ribs
Double layer of ribs, bolted or screwed
together. The inner layer is cut to
provide greatest depth and strength
at points wherre the outer layer is Ribs
narrowest and weakest.
Strut
Outer edge of bearers must be flush
with the form (plywood in this case)
so that the arch curves away from the
springing point. Tie

Springing point

Folding wedges placed between

props and bearers to allow easy
removal of centre once masonry
is in place and self-supporting
Plate or bearer
Centre bearer or plate acts as a base for
the struts to sit on and is wider than
total width of struts at the base. An
extra central prop is used for bigger
span arches

Timber props; modern arch centres would

be supported on telescopic steel poles.
Roman formwork often avoided the
potential problem of props bending under
load, especially if the height from ground
level to the springing point is great, by
incorporating ledges at the base of the
curve of the arch to support the formwork.

Sole plate

CONSTRUCTION OF FORMWORK
FOR A SEMI-CIRCULAR ARCH

Masonry is often capable of withstanding enormous compressive stresses, but relatively little tensile stress. Timber, on the other hand, has the reverse
property, and is a very efficient material in tension; put simply, you can apply a bending force to timber, which it will resist, and even deform before
breaking, whereas masonry will simply shear or break. These complimentary properties make the two materials (masonry here covers a wide range from
stone to concrete) ideal companions in the construction of arches and domes. Once an arch is complete, it is what is known as a compression form,
eliminating tensile stresses and the forces acting in an arch are carried to the ground in the form of thrust; an arch will always push outwards at its
base, and the lower the rise or to put it another way, the flatter the curve, the greater the thrust outwards. Gothic arches were developed to take advantage
of this, as the pointed arch can have a much greater height relative to its span, and thus has much smaller outward thrust at the base. The construction
of many of our best known cathedrals and churches depended on this property and would have been impossible with semi-circular arches.

Woodworking Crafts issue 16 61

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 PHOTOGRAPHS BY AMBER BAILEY
Hand woodworking

Kitchen sign
Amber Bailey makes a fun kitchen sign,
WHAT YOU WILL NEED:
• Photocopies of the paper
template/design
• Selection of veneers
• Scalpel (10A blade)
• Cutting mat
using marquetry techniques • Veneer press
• Bandsaw
rowing up in the beautiful visible. This is especially important if • Fish glue

G rural countryside of Sussex,

I have developed certain ideals
as to how a house interior should
you are making use of recycled material
and wish to highlight this fact.
• Plywood (approximately 12mm
thick) 227mm x 107mm
• Sanding equipment
look. Living in a full house, the heart Cutting the marquetry • Spirit dye and brush
of the home was always the kitchen,
a vision of traditional white and
blue and the occasional farm animal
2 The assortment of veneers can be
based on the colour scheme of the
kitchen it will be displayed in.
• Osmo oil and cotton cloth
• Light coloured wax

motif. For friends everywhere I have Suppliers

found the perfect gift to be a kitchen Materials:
Health and safety www.axminster.co.uk,
sign that emulates this ‘home-sweet- This project involves using a scalpel
home’ vision. A simple but extremely to cut the veneers. To avoid the or any well stocked DIY store
effective project that adds a welcoming blade slipping and causing any nasty Veneers:
rustic feel to any décor. Why not get accidents, make sure to cut at an www.originalmarquetry.co.uk
inspired and see what other designs angle, away from yourself. or from your local veneer merchant
or household signs you could create?

Preparing the groundwork

1 Using a bandsaw or similar cut
a plywood groundwork to
approximately 227 x 107mm. Sand
down the edges and the back surface
to remove any rough splinters. With
all the edges prepared, apply a spirit-
based dye of your choice to all surfaces
other than where the marquetry will
be adhered. Unlike paint, spirit dye
will allow for the wood grain to remain
1 2

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 Hand woodworking

227mm

107mm
The background
3 Begin by cutting out a series of
uniform squares in two alternating
coloured veneers. Tape the squares
into the appropriate pattern following
the original design. Overlay onto the
background veneer, using a scalpel to
cut around so that the squares can be
tightly slotted into place.

4 The rest of the design needs to be

cut out of the background, as this
will help create a tight template for
the inner detail. Overlay a paper copy
of the template and secure with tape 3 4
to the background. Use a scalpel to
cut out the outer lines.

The leħering
5 With the lettering veneer
temporarily taped in place, flip
the marquetry over so it is face down.
Using the background as a template,
cut out the lettering with the scalpel.

The chicken
6 For the chicken marquetry, follow
exactly the same process as for the
lettering, making sure to work from
the inside edges outward. The paper
template will be needed for cutting
out the detail of the chicken. 5 6

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 Hand woodworking

7 For each individual piece of veneer,

fit the veneer into its correct
position in the background and then
overlay the template to cut out any
necessary extra detail.

Preparing the design

8 Before jumping straight into
cutting the design, it is important
to have decided on the angles of
grain direction as this will affect
the aesthetics of the piece and help
enhance its three-dimensionality.
As a general rule the grain should 7 8
follow the longest lengths of each
section in the design. To help plan
this, draw the according lines onto
a master copy for reference.

Gluing up
9 With the marquetry taped up
into one piece, it can be glued
down in its entirety. Apply an even
layer of fish glue or other adhesive of
your choosing onto the groundwork
and press the marquetry into place.
Temporarily tape down if necessary to
stop it moving out of position, however
this should only be for the first hour 9 10
and removed after some adhesion has
occurred to prevent dents damaging
the surface. The marquetry needs to be
pressed for at least 12 hours to allow
for it to dry, it is advisable to have the
marquetry between sheets of acetate
to avoid any excess glue sticking to
the press. Once dry, any excess glue
or waste veneer can be cut away
and all tape can be removed
ready to prepare for finishing.

Smoothing
10 It is likely that using Sellotape
to temporarily adhere the
marquetry will leave sticky residue 11 12
on the veneers. Removing these marks
can be achieved through a mixture of sander straight and only press very
cabinet scraping and lightly going over lightly as it is far too easy to wear Fixtures
the surface with a portable sander. down the surface of the marquetry. When adding fixtures to the back of
It is extremely important to keep the the panel, ensure they are as strong

Amber Bailey
11 This is also a good method
to use if there is any serious
difference in veneer thickness. With
as possible so there is no danger of
breaking under its weight.

Amber is a skilled the surface clean, the marquetry can

marquetarian and be scraped and have a final smoothing of times until you are happy with the
surface design artist
with fine grade abrasive wrapped appearance of the finish. The first will
who graduated from
around a block. be acting as a sealant and furthers
Bucks New Uni in
2014. She is now based iin P
Paris
i at the
h will be needed to build up colour and
École Boulle where she will complete Finishing sheen. At least several hours drying
her studies in the art of marquetry and
Boulle metalwork, continuing with 12 With a piece of soft cotton
cloth, apply a layer of Osmo
oil to the marquetry and then buff off
time will be needed between each layer
then a minimum of 12 hours should
be left after completion before finally
this traditional decorative skill.
Web: www.abmarquetry.com any excess oil with a clean piece of buffing the panel up with a clear or
cloth. Repeat this process a number light coloured wax. ■

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 Power woodworking

A homemade
extracধon sub-base
and outlet pipe
PHOTOGRAPHS BY GMC/ANTHONY BAILEY

ROUTING EXTRACTION
The Editor has the ‘not so dusty’ answers to the
perennial problem of wood dust extraction
e often show photos of routers in use without

W extraction fitted so you can see what is going on.

In fact, extraction is necessary wherever possible
but there are issues around using it, including restricted
vision of the work area, cumbersome hoses, ineffective
extraction and incompatible components. Here are
some ways you can work and breathe more safely.

Visible dust is choking but finer dust parধcles of one micron or Most routers and other power tools come with some means of
less are damaging to health as they can penetrate skin and lung extracধng dust and chippings. It pays to check before purchase
ধssue. Therefore, dust should always be removed at the source how good these devices really are. Most are clear plasধc add-
as much as possible with any dust creaধng operaধon. ons, but beħer extracধon is built into the machine.

66 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

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 Power woodworking

You need an HPLV (High Pressure Low

Volume) extractor which may look like
an industrial vacuum cleaner but has
filtraধon designed to deal with wood
dust. The beħer ones have auto-switching
that comes on when you start the power Working overhand the router’s own extracধon will generally work quite
tool and runs on ađerwards to clear dust well, but the router needs to be guided properly as vision of the cuħer
fully from the extracধon pipe. on the workpiece may be restricted.

Edge machining is messy unless the Router tables come with an extracধon There are other table operaধons when
fence is fiħed with an extracধon bowl, port fiħed in the middle of the fence, you might need to adopt other soluধons.
which is then connected to the extractor. which is saধsfactory for operaধons These can either be overhead or to one
It may be possible to create a homemade where the workpiece runs against the side and may consist of just a pipe and
soluধon that will fit on your fence so long side of the cuħer as the chippings are a collecধon spout placed where most
as it doesn’t contact the cuħer at all. thrown towards the extracধon port. waste is being ejected.

Woodworking is always going to be a

somewhat messy acধvity but there is
a big diøerence between ‘lying dust’
and ‘fl ying dust’ – the laħer being the
risky stuø. You get special workshop air
filters that are designed to remove very
Always maintain and use a kit of PPE (Personal Protecধon Equipment) as necessary. fine dust parধcles from the atmosphere
Use safety glasses and good quality dustmasks, not simple ‘monkey masks’ which and are leđ switched on all the ধme
don’t stop fine dust from passing through. you are working. ■

Woodworking Crafts issue 16 67

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 TA315 TILT ARBOR SAWBENCH
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 Aluminium Riving Knife Mounted Sawguard with Clear Polycarbonate Hinged Visors
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 Fabricated rear table extension

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068_WWC_016.indd 68 6/9/16 5:11 PM

 Hand woodworking

2
PHOTOGRAPHS BY GMC/ANTHONY BAILEY

DIY 3

Window repair
The Editor had a rotten time trying to see his
way to doing a window repair, but the answer
soon became very clear
4
eing ‘Mr. Helpful’, I answered

B a call for help about a rotten

window by coming up with
a crafty solution that didn’t entail
1 There was some heavy putty work
that concealed some hideous wood
rot in the bottom rail where water had
3 Now the putty could be gently
prised away to reveal the disaster
zone. Maybe I had miscalculated and
replacing the entire window casement penetrated behind the original dried- a completely new frame might be in
(the frame the glass is mounted in out putty. Modern window installations order after all?
when side hung). I don’t like just tend to use silicone which is much
making new; I prefer to repair and
restore if I can and this window wasn’t
more flexible.
4 Normally the joints would be held
with a star dowel or a nail but in
as bad as it looked at first sight. It just
needed some ingenuity to repair it
without managing to break the glass in
2 The first task was to remove the
window stay from the defection
bottom rail. The screws in the frame
the absence of my metal detector I
used a chisel held vertically to scrape
the paint back to bare wood. I did
the process. This sort of joinery needs weren’t very keen to come out, so a this on both sides to find the errant
similar care and attention to detail as pair of pliers did the trick once they metalwork that was holding the frame
furniture restoration – believe it or not! were partly extracted. together, but without any luck.

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 Hand woodworking

5 I soon found a single panel pin

that held the glass when it was
first installed. I didn’t want any metal
present in the frame that could damage
tools during the work.

6 I had a cunning plan; I decided

to try to rout the rot damage away,
back to ‘clean’ wood. That was the
idea anyway. So I laid a piece of MDF
on veneer packers on the glass so the
router could sit level while machining.

7 The router with a 12mm straight

cutter and fence was placed against
the edge of the bottom rail as it still
5 6

had enough integrity. I wasn’t sure

exactly what would be left of the rail
after this operation, it was a bit of a
leap in the dark.

8 Here, you can see the first run.

Carefully pressing the fence against
the rail seemed promising except it
revealed rather alarming rot closer
to the glazing. More machining to go
before I could really see what decent
wood was left.

9 During the second pass with

the router I finally found the
pins holding the frame together.
7 8

Fortunately, they didn’t damage the

router cutter. I machined along both
sides of the frame to remove the
remaining rot and then cleaned
up with a chisel.

10 This left a standing strip of

wood under the glass, which
I flush cut away using a Japanese
pullsaw, leaving a ‘level playing field’
which I could lay a new piece on.

11 By careful measuring I was able

to work out a glazing rebate size
and machine a section for the bottom 9 10
and the sides of the frame. I opted for
tulip poplar (Liriodendron tulipifera)
usually dismissed for exterior work
in the UK, but often used as such in
North America.

12 First of all I tried the bottom

section in place and increased
the rebate slightly on the router table.
The ends would be cut off slightly once
repairs to the sides had been done.
The left side had a new piece let
in, with a bevelled top end following
the line of the chopped out damage.
I made sure it was a tight fit to prevent
water penetration.
11 12

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 Hand woodworking

13 A larger piece was fitted into

the right hand side, the top end
in this case was bevelled downwards
to prevent water getting into the joint.
Then the new bottom rail piece was
cut step fashion at each end to hold
the side pieces in place.

14 The only glue I felt was suitable

was PU (polyurethane) which is
strong, cures with moisture and is gap
filling. All meeting surfaces had some
on them to ensure good bonding.
13 14
15 Plenty of quick clamps were
used to ensure nothing sprang
apart as the glue started foaming.
The exuded adhesive would be
trimmed off once the glue had cured.

16 Where the side repair pieces

projected from the existing
frame I chiselled it flush using a
sweeping motion rather than paring
downwards which could have broken
the glass.

17 The bottom rail infill was

levelled using a small rebate
plane and the ends finished off with
a chisel where the plane couldn’t 15 16
get into.

18 Now the faces and edges

needed levelling and blending
into the frame profile. Here, my Record
No.3 plane was ideal for trimming
off flush. Tulip poplar is a rather dull
looking wood but it does cut cleanly
and easily off a sharp blade.

19 At the rear of the bottom rail

I needed to machine a weather
rebate to match the sides. Fortunately,
the router fence had removable facings
that could be refitted so they projected
low down to run along the new edge 17 18
of the bottom rail.

20 The glass needed careful

re-puttying using the curved
edge of a putty knife after pushing
freshly kneaded putty into the glazing
rebate and making neat corners.
The putty was then undercoated and
left to dry prior to applying top coats
of white gloss. The paint needs to run
on to the glass in a neatly ‘cut’ line
to seal the joint between the putty
and the glass as this is where water
will eventually get in. Well, now
this window should be good for
a few more years yet! ■
19 20

Woodworking Crafts issue 16 71

WWC_16_69_71_DIY_WINDOW_REPAIR_HAND_AB_bdABjr.indd 71 09/06/2016 11:57

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072_WWC_016.indd 72 6/9/16 5:11 PM

 Hand woodworking

Shaker-style
Wall shelf
with pegs
Michael T Collins pegs his
reputation for quality on
this Shaker-based project
PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICHAEL T COLLINS

WHAT YOU WILL NEED:

Tools
• Crosscut saw
• Router plane and ¼in cutter
• Chisels – 10mm, 20mm & 25mm
• Mallet
• Combination or shoulder plane
• Bevel gauge
• Carpenters square
• Cutting and mortise gauge
• Marking knife
e have lived in our house for over 20 years and the entry-mud room

W can get very cluttered with coats, gloves and scarves, especially during
the long winter months. Several years ago I made a simple coat rack
with a few hooks, but it came time for a change. We needed something that could
Wood
1 top – 19 x 200 x 860mm
1 bottom – 19 x 180 x 820mm
not only handle the number of coats my wife has, but also the keys and other 2 sides – 16 x 180 x 390mm
paraphernalia that just get dumped on entering the house. It was decided that 2 shelf dividers – 16 x 170 x 285mm
we needed a new shelf and coat rack. 1 peg board – 19 x 100 x 820mm
The Shakers had a very minimalist lifestyle and this way of life was reflected 1 piece Baltic birch back –
in the style of their furniture; minimalistic, no frills and elegant, which centuries 6 x 285 x 822mm
later is still very popular and highly sought after. Most Shaker furniture is now 5 screw-in shaker pegs available
in private collections or in museums. It has a long and detailed history, one that from www.rockler.com
continues to be remembered by those who appreciate fine furniture as works of (or can be turned on a lathe)
art as well as highly functional objects. ➤

Woodworking Crafts issue 16 73

WWC_16_73_77_SHAKER_SHELF_HAND_MTC_bdABjr.indd - DRAWING IN.indd 73 16/06/2016 14:31

 Hand woodworking
203 Top butt jointed with sides, joint
stregthened with angled dowels

Dividers joined to top and

shelf using sliding dovetails,
stopped in the top
6 168
286
178 Sides rebated for back,
shelf and pegboard

19

SECTION
Scale 1 to 8
864

19

286 267
16
400 16
16 16

Pegboard joint with sides strengthened

19 with a dowel each side
822 Line of coat pegs, equally spaced,
89
114 follows curve of pegboard bottom edge
25
FRONT ELEVATION
Scale 1 to 8

Cuষng the rebates

1 Prepare the wood to the finished
dimensions, square and plane all
ends. I like to mark all rebates with
a cutting gauge, this provides a clean
shoulder when planing the rebate.
The back panel is housed in a 9 x 9mm
rebate on the inside of the side, bottom
and top boards.

2 Create the rebate on the bottom

and side boards with a combination
plane. Place the wood flush with 1 2
the edge of your bench – this gives
additional support and stability and
is more likely to create a square
shouldered rebate.

3 The top board has a stopped rebate

which can be planed just like the
other pieces, but some additional work
is required. Mark and gauge the limits
of the rebate as before and then chop
out and pare out a 50mm section at
the left end.

4 Set the depth stop at 10mm and

plane the rebate. You will need
to clean up the section of the rebate
on the right end with a chisel. 3 4

74 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

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 Hand woodworking

Peg board rebate

5 Once the rebate is planed on the
side pieces, mark a section that
is 19 x 115mm on the lower end,
for the peg board ends, which can
be cut using a chisel.

The sliding dovetail socket

6 The top and bottom sockets are
made in essentially the same way
but the top board is 25mm wider and
the dovetail sockets do not go all the
way through. In this situation, simply
rip 25mm off the front edge, joint the
two pieces then cut all the sockets 5 6
and glue the piece back on. Take the
bottom board and evenly space the
two dividers along the length. Don’t
forget to allow for the 9mm housed
in the side’s dado. With a combination
square and the dividers, lay out the
position of the sockets – carry the lines
down the front and back edges.

7 Next, position the top board so that

it is centred on the bottom board
and transfer the socket locations –
this removes the need to measure the
positions, and avoids introducing error
caused by inaccurate measurement.
7 8
8 This dovetail is only 180mm long
and affords an opportunity to try
sawing angles freehand. Practise on
some scrap material if you do not
feel confident. Mark the 9mm depth
of the socket and come in 3mm
(approximately 18°) then connect
this inner line with the lower corners
– repeat this for all the joints at both
ends of the joint.

9–10 Continue the lines across

the board and deeply
score with a marking knife, then with
a chisel create a ‘V’ notch. You can
do this in two ways – draw the chisel 9 10 11
towards you or pare away the waste.

11 Now saw down on the waste

side of the line. Check the saw’s
location at the back edge.

12 Pare away the bulk of the waste

with a narrow chisel.

13 Clean up the socket with a

plough plane (adjusting the
depth gradually). Here, you can see
I have put some masking tape on the
sole to protect the wood. Because
of the nature of this joint too much
cleaning up with a plane will change
the fit of the joint. 12 13

Woodworking Crafts issue 16 75

WWC_16_73_77_SHAKER_SHELF_HAND_MTC_bdABjr.indd - DRAWING IN.indd 75 09/06/2016 12:00

 Hand woodworking

Cuষng the tail

14 Take the depth of the socket and
using a cutting gauge, mark the
ends of the dividers.

15 Using a bevel gauge take the

same angle used for the socket
and transfer it to the divider.

16 Saw down to the ‘root’ of the

tail, then remove the waste by
whatever means you like.

17 In step 16 you can see that I

am paring from the corner to
the bottom of the saw kerf. Test fit the
14 15

joint, it should slide together with just

a little resistance, too much and you
are likely to split something, too little
and it will be a sloppy joint.

Handy hint
To remove the joint it is
sometimes easier to push the
dovetail all the way through
– this way you are not trying
to reverse the direction of the 16 17
crushed fibres.

Cuষng the dados

18 The dados are cut using the
same technique as the dovetail
sockets – only sawing vertically down.
Pare away and use the plough plane
to clean up the joint.

The peg board

19 The curve on the peg board is
easy to achieve with nothing
more complicated than a piece of 25 18 19
x 6mm straight grained wood and a
piece of string. Select the desired curve
and draw the profile. Saw the profile
using a coping or bow saw.

20 Then, clean up the surface with

a spokeshave or compass plane
(remember to always plane ‘downhill’).
Leave a slightly flat area at each end
– this will blend in with the bottom
of the ends.

21 It was at this point I decided

that rather than a squared off
finished to the bottom of the sides,
I wanted a curved profile. This was
cut using a bow saw. 20 21

76 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

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 Hand woodworking

22 Test fit the parts to make sure

they go together well.

Glue up
23 Start by gluing the dividers into
place. Spread glue in the socket
only at the entry end – this way the
glue will be smeared the length of the
socket as the joint is brought together.

24 Now glue the side pieces

into place. The top is a glued
butt-joint and is pegged at an angle,
creating a strong joint. The top of the
shelves could also be nailed. 22 23

25 Glue the piece that was ripped

off the top back in place, making
sure that you get the grain direction
correct. Glue the pegboard into place.
Both these joints are long grain to
long grain and will form a strong joint
with just glue, however because the
pegboard will be taking a lot of weight
(at least in our household…) I also
pegged the lower end to the sides.
Glue the back panel in place and add
a few nails to secure it.

Installing the pegs

26 I used screw-in pegs for this
project and used a combination
square to position them 25mm from
24 25

the bottom of the curve. This way the

pegs match the curve of the board and
add a little visual interest.

27 Pre-drill the holes and then

screw the pegs home. The shelf
is supported with a couple of brass
picture hangers – remove enough
wood from the rear so that the hangers
lie flush with the back of the shelf.

The finish
28 Sand all the surfaces with
180 through 320 grit paper.
Wipe off the dust, then flood the
26 27
surface with natural Danish oil and let
it sink in for about 45 minutes. Remove
any excess and allow it to dry fully. Michael T Collins
Give the whole piece a light sand with British-born Michael
320 grit and then apply another coat of has been working with
Danish oil. Depending on the degree wood off and on for
of lustre you want, you can repeat 40 years. He moved to
this a couple more times. Rub out the New York in 1996 and
final coat with 0000 wire wool. Finally, create a simpler, minimalistic life
28
over the years, has made bespoke
apply a good quality furniture wax for yourself by sorting out all those furniture, including clocks, inlay work,
and buff to a shine. The next step is to winter coats, gloves and scarves. Adams fireplaces, book cases and
make three boxes that fit on the shelf, Now, where did I put my keys? ■ reproduction furniture.
but that’s for another time… Web: www.sawdustandwoodchips.com
Now step back and admire the Next month... Twiħer: @sawdustandwood
minimalistic lines and style of your Michael makes a Shaker bench
Shaker shelf and at the same time help

Woodworking Crafts issue 16 77

WWC_16_73_77_SHAKER_SHELF_HAND_MTC_bdABjr.indd - DRAWING IN.indd 77 09/06/2016 12:00

 Community

ANTHONY BAILEY

Ask the Experts Editor,

Woodworking
Crafts magazine

MARK BAKER
This is your chance to challenge our Editors and Group Editor,
GMC woodworking
for them to answer your comments and queries magazines

CLIMB CUTTING
★ STAR
QUESTIO
N
PEELING OFF

“ Last year I decided to improve

the look of some dark finished exterior
woodwork by putting a coat of varnish
over the top of it but it has just peeled
back and looks terrible. What have
I done wrong and can I do anything
about it now?
Susan Cunliffe
”
Anthony replies: Normally you would
expect exterior quality varnish to stick
to anything but if you try to apply it to
an ‘unlike’ material then it may well
not want to bond properly. Varnish
forms a skin of its own and needs to
be able to grip properly. This is fine
on bare wood where it enters the grain
although the first coat can benefit
from thinning down slightly using the
correct thinning agent, for oil based
varnish this would be white spirit.
Running end grain against a bearing guided Whatever was used before – it looks
cutter can cause an unexpected kickback like Sadolin or something similar, it
would have been much better to recoat
using the same product. Another

“ Your last rouࣅng arࣅcle menࣅoned ‘climb cuࣕng’. I’ve found

several references on the web, but I’m not sure if I should be doing it or
if it’s even safe? Occasionally when I’m rouࣅng, if I slip, the router races
point to bear in mind is a new coat
of finish will grip far better if the old
finish is ‘keyed’ using abrasive paper
to roughen the surface. Unfortunately
backwards which can be alarming. Is that climb cuࣕng, going the wrong I think you will have to wait until the
varnish has largely peeled off before
way? How do I avoid doing it accidentally?
Barry Smales

Anthony replies: Climb cutting

”
There are a few times where it
attempting this although rubbing down
with abrasive paper may help to loosen
and remove it.

is where either the material or the may be of use. An obvious one is

router is fed not into the direction obtaining a smooth finish on grain This varnish has failed to bond at
of rotation of cut, but with the same where conventional cutting might all to the underlying wood finish
direction of rotation. Where you tear it up, using a relatively light
machine around a corner shape and cut or cuts. It can also be used like
then across the end grain the router this if you get burning on end grain.
can ‘kick back’, going suddenly in Just run the router backwards after
the wrong direction which is what the last cut and it may be enough
you have described and is rather to take off the superficial burn
like controlled climb cutting. marks. However, deep climb cuts
I used the term controlled because are out of the question because the
climb cutting can only be done safely cutter is entering the wood in a way
if it is under some form of control that it is not intended to do and
or the result can be alarming and consequences could be serious. The
possibly cause unexpected damage answer is it is much safer to stick
to the workpiece. with conventional cutting technique.

78 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

WWC_16_78_79_Q_&_A_COM_AB_bdABjr.indd 78 09/06/2016 12:05

 Community

TURN OF THE SCREW

“ When I helped clear out an elderly neighbour’s shed

recently I found lots of screws and fittings. I use modern
twinfast screws most of the time but this was a really messy
assortment of Pozidrive headed screws and traditional steel
and brass slot headed screws, nails and panel pins plus all these
fittings, hinges, etc, etc. There were loads and loads and the
thought of trying to sort them all out made my heart sink but
I don’t like the idea of just chucking them away, this guy was
a real hoarder though. Do they all have a use?

Anthony replies: If you think of all the millions of screws,

nails and fixings down the years that have been wasted and
” Most of this is junk but it can be recycled

I still use brass screws. I rarely use nails these days only
panel pins. This illustrates how fixing methods have come
just thrown away, it is quite an alarming thought. It seems on over the years. Fixings and hinges might be useful but
a real shame but you have to be realistic about what is when? Unless you have a definite need for all these different
worth keeping. I’m quite fussy and have settled on certain screws and nails and endless time to sort them into sizes and
brands and types principally screws with a deeper modified types, I would suggest a trip to your local recycling centre
crosshead that drive in really well using an 18volt cordless where they can enter the recycling chain and be turned into
drill. However for decorative or important visible fixing something more useful.

FOOD SAFE FINISH CLOCKWISE

“ I have been trying to work out what finish I can use on

chopping boards and serving boards, that will not taint the food
smell-wise and, of course, one that will be food safe. Do you
have any suggestions?
“ I’ve acquired a full length cheval mirror for my wife, that
is a long oval mirror on a stand which needed a bit work gluing
veneers in place and a touch of French polish, I left that to a
professional to deal with as I’m just a beginner at woodworking.
Gina Richards
”
Mark replies: Firstly, use a timber that is close grained and
However, my wife has complained that the mirror keeps tipping
forward when she tries to tighten the drop handles at the side.
One seems to have worn loose and won’t grip properly.
does not have a discernable smell that lingers. Common
close-grained hardwoods like sycamore, beech, fruitwoods
and also olivewood would be good to use if you can get
some. But, as far as finish, you can buy food-safe ones, that
Dave Newman

Anthony replies: Now this

sounds silly and I certainly
”
will not taint your food’s flavour. I typically use oils,, or oil wouldn’t want to embarrass
and wax mixes, as the finished surface can be any reader of the magazine,
easily sanded and refinished iff it but has she tried turning the
gets grubby or damaged. Food d handle in question the other
grade mineral oils work well. way? Both screw threads
Steer clear of using cooking should be clockwise, so each
oils as some have begun to one is tightened up that
smell odd over time, so I way, even though standing
tend to stick to those that in front of the mirror you Turnscrews
are tested and marked as would think they would both always
suitable for such use. I hope tighten either towards or have
this helps. away from you, they don’t clockwise
Right: Use finishes that in fact. Hopefully this advice threads
are sold as ‘food safe’ should sort out the problem.

★
T Tool Marketing Company, or TOMACO, as it is
The Narex six-piece chisel set worth £79.95 and all other
STAR known, who sell a variety of tool brands, including published questions will receive a 20mm half-round
N
QUESTIO
COLT, Sharp Edge and Narex Tools, are pleased to fine cut Narex rasp worth
be sponsoring the ‘Ask the experts’ section in £20.95. For more
PRIZ E
collaboration with GMC Publications. information see
Each issue’s ‘Star Question Prize’ will receive a www.tomaco.co.uk

If you have anything to say, write to: The Editor, Woodworking Crafts, 86 High Street, Lewes, East Sussex BN7 1XN.
Alternatively, email: anthonyb@thegmcgroup.com
By submitting your questions and photos, you agree that GMC Publications may publish your Work in our magazines, websites, electronic or any other mediums known now or invented in the future.
In addition GMC may sell or distribute the Work, on its own, or with other related material. This material must not have been submitted for publication elsewhere

Woodworking Crafts issue 16 79

WWC_16_78_79_Q_&_A_COM_AB_bdABjr.indd 79 09/06/2016 12:05

 The UK’s last remaining traditional saw manufacturers.
Now also manufacturing Clifton Planes
including a NEW Block Plane!

080_WWC_016.indd 80 6/9/16 5:13 PM

 Power woodworking

U I C K M A K E
››››››› Q
›› Postbox Our very own ‘man
of letters’ brings you
a project so easy that
you will definitely be
‘first past the post’

PHOTOGRAPHS BY GMC/ANTHONY BAILEY

Things you will need
• Hardwood and plywood pieces
• Sliding bevel
• Plane
• Aliphatic resin glue
• Damp cloth
• Drill and drill bits
• Screws and screw cups
• Flush hinges

The lid won’t hinge at the back, as the wall is in the way, so hinge the front edge instead!

T 2 4
hi exterior
his t i postboxtb can b be Glue all of the pieces together Add a bevel at the back edge of the
fixed inside a porch or bolted using weatherproof aliphatic resin lid, so it will fit neatly against a wall.
to a garden wall, using two glue. Carefully fit the box components Use a smoothing plane for this and take
screws and wall plugs. together and weight them down until care to make it even from end-to-end.
I used sapele (Entandrophragma the glue has set. Wipe away excess glue
cylindricum) but any decent hardwood
will do, using a varnish finish to
with a damp cloth.
5 Lie the box on its back so the lid
sits flush at the back before marking
weatherproof it. You could also paint
the house name or number on it.
The postbox external dimensions are:
3 Carefully mark, drill and use screw
fixings to ensure it all stays together,
whatever the weather. Add screw cups
the hinge positions. Fix the hinges
to the lid first then to the box. Finally,
apply several coats of exterior varnish.
380 x 230 x 100mm, excluding the lid for the front fixings as these look better Remove the lid to drill and then screw
which overhangs at the front and sides. than just screws on their own. through the back and into the wall. ■
Most postal items should fit in the box.

1 First, mark a rainwater runoff angle

on the side pieces with a sliding
bevel; the angle isn’t critical. Cut the
sides to shape then cut out the back
and front pieces. Use plywood for
the bottom if you don’t have enough
hardwood left after making the other
components. The bottom fits inside
to keep the postbox weatherproof. 2 4
Plane the edges smooth.

1 3 5

Woodworking Crafts issue 16 81

WWC_16_81_QUICK_MAKE_POSTBOX_POWER_AB_vsbdAB.indd 81 21/06/2016 10:01

 SUBSCRIBE TO 12 ISSUES
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TO ADVERTISE PLEASE CALL RUSSELL: 01273 402841 Woodworking Crafts Issue 16 87

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 Community
ISSUE 17
Coming next month in ON SALE
4 AUGUST

Gothic-style
oak screen
project
■ Feature: Rolls Royce
Restoration ‘par
excellence’
■ Grounded shepherd’s
hut plans
■ Marquetry butterfly
project

PLUS: Greenhouse geometry • Two-step stool quick make • Axe block for spoon carving
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Woodworking is an inherently dangerous pursuit. Readers should not attempt the procedures described herein without seeking training and information on the safe use of tools and machines, and all readers should observe current safety legislation. Views
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WWC_16_88_NEXT ISSUE_vsAB.indd 88 09/06/2016 12:08

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