© Lonely Planet Publications

707

Andalucía
What aspect of Spain does Andalucía represent? To millions of visitors, this southern power-
house is Spain. Since the country began to reinvent itself as a major destination in the 1950s
Andalucía has been the generator of national stereotypes. Now, as the 21st century gets
under way, it’s providing fresh images and startling contrasts.

There’s Cádiz, Europe’s oldest living city, contrasting the shiny new metropolises of the
Costa del Sol still waiting to be inhabited. The narrow streets of Andalucía’s provincial capitals,
rich in historic treasures left by Phoenician, Roman, Moorish, Jewish and Catholic conquerors,
offset a vast outdoor adventure playground with Spain’s widest swathes of protected land, the
mainland’s highest mountain, and Europe’s stiffest breezes powering kitesurfing in Tarifa.

Andalucía is a clash of sensory impressions as fierce as its searing light and impenetra-
ble shade. It’s scrambled brains and testicles in a classic tortilla de Sacromonte omelette; sleek
silver trams swishing past 15th-century cathedrals; the flat tinkle of an Alpujarran goat bell
in a main shopping street; wind farms, wax tapers, and world-famous names headlining at

ANDALUCÍA
music festivals; and wild eagles in Doñana National Park. Andalucía’s both superstitious and
irreligious. Yet it’s not sentimental and its young people are impatient for change. Andalucía
is taking its place in 21st-century Spain – the past can come along if it likes.

HIGHLIGHTS
Úbeda
„ Watch exotic birds soar over the moody Baeza
marismas marshlands of Huelva’s Parque Córdoba
Nacional de Doñana (p733) Seville
Granada
Antequera
Parque Natural
„ Savour Seville’s medieval supremacy in the de Doñana
Ronda Málaga Cabo de Gata
exquisite architecture and gardens of the
city’s Alcázar (p718)
„ Visit the Picasso Museum (p768) then
follow the contemporary art trail through
culture-mad Málaga
„ Walk the beautiful volcanic coastline of Cabo de Gata (p828) and contemplate stone, sea and sky
„ Immerse yourself in the scented sensuality of Córdoba’s exquisite hammam baths, the Baños
Arabes (p791)
„ Enter some of Europe’s largest megalithic tombs near Antequera (p785) in Málaga and step
into prehistory
„ Reconstruct the splendour of Renaissance Spain in the magnificent Jaén towns of Úbeda
(p819) and Baeza (p818)
„ Live life on the edge in Ronda (p780) as you drink cocktails at the parador overlooking plung-
ing El Tajo gorge

„ AREA: 87,000 SQ KM „ AVE SUMMER TEMP: HIGH „ POP: 7.9 MILLION

36°C, LOW 20°C (SEVILLE
 708 A N D A LU C Í A • • H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com

ANDALUCÍA
Almendralejo Castuera

diana
Cabeza
Santa Marta del Buey
Villafranca de
Gua
de los Barros
Barcarrota los Barros
Santa
Eufemia
Río

Villanueva de N432 BADAJOZ

la Fresno Burguillos El Viso
Valle de del Cerro Zafra
Matamoros Alcaracejos
Pozoblanco
N432 Villagarcía Peñarroya-
Jerez de los Calzadilla de de la Torre Pueblonuevo
Oliva de laCaballeros Los Barros Ahillones Bélmez
FronteraFregenal de Fuente de Llerena
Cantos Azuaga Fuente
la Sierra Río Obejuna
Higuera Be
POR TUGAL la Real CÓRDOBA

m
Monesterio Embalse

bez
Parque Natural Guadalcanal de Puente

ar
Sierra de Aracena a Nuevo
y Picos de Aroche M o re n
N433 N630 Sierra
Rosal de la Jabugo Galaroza Cazalla de Embalse de
Frontera Cortegana Aracena Santa Olalla la Sierra Bembézar
Almonaster Medina
del Cala Constantina Azahara A4
la Real Alájar Linares Higuera de
de la Sierra la Sierra Córdoba
SEVILLA
Minas de
HUELVA Riotinto El Ronquillo Lora del
Zalamea Río Espejo
la Real Palma
ivir
Río Gu

lqu del Río

Río Tinto

El Garrobo
ada Montilla
A66 Gu Écija
OdRío o Aguilar de
Río Ge la Frontera
Rí
adi

iel N435
A4

n il
ana

Beas Italica Torreblanca Carmona Monturque

Camas Seville de los A364
Caños El Viso del Alcor Marinaleda
Cartaya A49 San Juan de Puente
Aznalfarache Mairena del Alcor Marchena
Lepe Alcalá de Guadaira Genil
Huelva Moguer Almonte Coria Estepa
del Río Dos Hermanas La Puebla de
Ayamonte Isla La Palos de la Frontera Villamanrique Cazalla
La Rábida El Arahal
Cristina Antilla Punta A483 de la Condesa Osuna
R ío

Umbría Mazagón Los Palacios y

El Rocío Villafranca Utrera Laguna
ANDALUCÍA

Morón de la de Fuente
Gu

ad Frontera de Piedra
AP4 aira
Parque Bobadilla
Matalascañas Almargen A384
Nacional Antequera
Golfo de Cádiz de Doñana Lebrija Embalse del
Olvera El Torcal
Guadalteba- (1336m)
o

See Parque Nacional Algodonales Guadalhorce El Chorro

iar

Trebujena Villamartín
Zahara
ad

de Doñana Map (p733) Bornos Ardales

El de la Sierra
u

Embalse
R ío G

Sanlúcar de Barrameda Cuervo El Torreón El Burgo Álora

de Bornos (1654m)
Chipiona
Jerez de la Arcos de El Bosque Grazalema Ronda Torrecilla
Frontera la Frontera Benaoján (1918m)
Ubrique Parque Coín
ete

Rota Parque Natural

Natural
al

El Puerto de Santa María d Benalmádena

Río Gua Sierra de Sierra de las Nieves
Cádiz Grazalema Mijas
Puerto Real Marbella
Co

Medina Sidonia Gaucín

Fuengirola
sta

San
Fernando Jimena de la AP7 San Pedro
d

Chiclana de CÁDIZ Frontera Torremolinos

el

la Frontera A381 de Alcántara

a

Estepona
Lu

A48 Parque Sol

z

Conil de la Natural Los del

Vejer de
sta

Frontera la Frontera Alcomocales

Co

Guadiaro
Los Caños Barbate San Roque
de Meca
Zahara de La Línea de la Concepción
Alg

los Atunes Algeciras Gibraltar (UK)

e c ir

f e Bolonia
ri
ne
as–C

Tarifa
Te ie r
de ng
ier

Ta
euta

uz ibraltar s–
ng

C r rait of G ira
Ta

a St c
nt ATLANTIC ge
a–

Sa Al Ceuta
rif

z–
di
Ta

OCEAN
Cá Tangier
MOROCCO

History From the 3rd century BC to the 5th century

Around 1000 or 900 BC, Andalucía’s agricul- AD Andalucía, governed from Córdoba, was
tural and mining wealth attracted Phoenician one of the most civilised and wealthiest areas
trading colonies to coastal sites such as Cádiz, of the Roman Empire.
Huelva and Málaga. In the 8th and 7th cen- Andalucía was the obvious base for the
turies BC Phoenician influence gave rise to Muslim invaders who surged onto the Iberian
the mysterious, legendarily wealthy Tartessos Peninsula from Africa in 711 under Arab gen-
civilisation somewhere in western Andalucía. eral Tariq ibn Ziyad, who landed at Gibraltar
lonelyplanet.com A N D A LU C Í A • • H i s t o r y 709

0 60 km
0 30 miles
Argamasilla de Valdepeñas Alcubillas Villahermosa Fuente-
Calatrava CIUDAD ALBACETE A30 Álamo
A4 Villanueva
Puertollano REAL de la Fuente a
Santa Cruz en Ontur
de Mudela alm Tobarra
ad Fábricas
CASTILLA - LA MANCHA Gu Villapalacios de Riópar Hellín Albatana
o Elche de
Rí la Sierra Isso
N322
Fuencaliente Embalse de Puente de Embalse
Guadalmena Génave del Cenajo
ra
Santa Elena gu
Arroyo del Segura de o Se
Ojanco R í
La Carolina la Sierra
Embalse El Yelmo
enamor Río Segura
del Jándula Villanueva Embalse (1809m) Río B
del Arzobispo del Tranco
ar de Beas Hornos
Bailén Linares li m
da Revolcadores
Río Gua Villacarrillo See Around Cazorla (2001m) Barranda Mula
Montoro Andújar Rus Rí o
Parque Map (p822) El Moral
Baeza Torreperogil
Úbeda Natural MURCIA
Villa Mengíbar de Cazorla Puebla de Don Fadrique
del Río Empanadas Parque Natural
Cazorla (2107m) Sierra de Castril
Río

Jódar
Torre del JAÉN
Gu

Campo Totana
Huéscar
ad

Cabañas
ian

Jaén Magina (2028m)

M
a

Martos en
(2167m) Vélez Rubio
or Lorca
Baena
Embalse del
Doña Alcaudete Negratín A91 A7
Mencía
Zuheros A44 Guadahortuna Zújar Puerto Lumbreras
Alcalá
Cabra Priego de la Real Torre Cardela Baza
Córdoba A92N
Lucena Moreda Huércal- A7
La Tiñosa Santa Overa
(1570m) Bárbara Río Almanzora Águilas
Parque Natural N432 Darro
(2271m) de los Filabres
Sierras Subbéticas S i er r a
Pinos Puente Purullena Guadix
Encinas Fuente ALMERÍA
Reales Vaqueros Alfacar Viznar
Huétor Huéneja
Santillán San Juan Doña María
Granada

ANDALUCÍA
A92 (2786m) Abla Ocaña
Sorbas Mojácar
Veleta Mulhacén Chullo
(3395m) (3479m) (2612m)
Sierra Tabernas
Alhama de Parque Nacional Trevélez Nevad a
Granada Sierra Nevada Cádiar Morrón Gádor Rioja Nijar Carboneras
Maroma Pampaneira (2236m) Alhama
ja rras de Almería Huércal de
(2069m) Órgiva Al pu Almería Parque Natural
Las Benahadux
MÁLAGA Cómpeta GRANADA de Cabo de
See Western Sierra Nevada Santa María Gata-Níjar
Vélez & Alpujarras Map (p811) El Ejido del Águila Almería El Cabo
Málaga Málaga Salobreña de Gata San José
Motril Golfo de
Torre Nerja Almuñécar Adra Cabo de Gata
Benajarafe del Mar Almeria
See Cabo de Gata Map (p829)
Arroyo
de la Miel

M
ál
ag
a-
M
el
ill
a
elilla

MEDITERRANEAN
ría-M

SEA
Alme

with around 10,000 men, mostly Berbers (in- Muslims, Jews and Christians. Islamic civilisa-
digenous North Africans). Until the 11th cen- tion lasted longer in Andalucía than anywhere
tury Córdoba was the leading city of Islamic else on the Iberian Peninsula, and it’s from
Spain, followed by Seville until the 13th and the medieval name for the Muslim areas of
finally Granada until the 15th centuries. At the peninsula, Al-Andalus, that the name
its peak in the 10th century, Córdoba was Andalucía comes.
the most dazzling city in Western Europe, The Emirate of Granada, the last bastion
famed for its ‘three cultures’ coexistence of of Al-Andalus, finally fell to the Catholic
 710 S E V I L L E • • H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com

Monarchs, Fernando and Isabel, in 1492. increasingly, its historic buildings coexist with
Columbus’ landing in the Americas the stark and stylish hotels and bars playing the
same year brought great wealth to Seville and latest beats.
later Cádiz, the Andalucian ports through Seville’s unrivalled heritage of art and
which Spain’s trade with the Americas was architecture is not confined to the city. In
conducted. But the Castilian conquerors Carmona, Osuna and Santiponce you can
killed off Andalucía’s deeper prosperity by explore some of Seville’s lesser-known ar-
handing out great swathes of territory to chitectural treasures. And in the Lugares
their nobles, who set sheep to run on former Colombinos, make your own voyage of dis-
food-growing lands. covery as you walk in the steps of visionary
By the late 19th century rural Andalucía explorer Christopher Columbus.
was a hotbed of anarchist unrest. During the Try to avoid sweltering July and August.
civil war Andalucía split along class lines Seville is quite hot enough at any other time
and savage atrocities were committed by of year!
both sides. Spain’s subsequent ‘hungry years’
were particularly hungry here in the south, HISTORY
and between 1950 and 1970 some 1.5 mil- Roman Seville, named Hispalis, was a sig-
lion Andalucians left to find work in the in- nificant port on Río Guadalquivir, which
dustrial cities of northern Spain and other is navigable to the Atlantic Ocean 100km
European countries. away. Muslim Seville, called Ishbiliya, be-
But tourism, industrial growth and mas- came the most powerful of the taifas (small
sive EU subsidies for agriculture have made kingdoms) into which Islamic Spain split
a big difference since the 1960s. The left- after the Córdoba caliphate collapsed in
of-centre PSOE (Partido Socialista Obrero 1031. In the 12th century a strict Islamic
Español) party has controlled Andalucía’s sect from Morocco, the Almohads, took over
ANDALUCÍA

regional government in Seville since 1982. Muslim Spain and made Seville capital of
The worst of Andalucian poverty has been their whole realm, building a great mosque
eradicated by welfare provision and eco- where the cathedral now stands. Almohad
nomic improvement. Education and health power eventually crumbled and Seville fell to
care have steadily improved, and the PSOE Fernando III (El Santo, the Saint) of Castilla
has given Andalucía Spain’s biggest network in 1248.
of environmentally protected areas (though By the 14th century, Seville was the most
only in the last couple of years has it begun important Castilian city, and was in sole
to tackle the rampant overdevelopment of control of trade with the American colonies
many coastal areas). from 1503. It rapidly became one of the most
The early 21st century has seen an impor- cosmopolitan cities on earth. However, over
tant shift in Andalucía’s ethnic balance with the next 300 years, both plague and the silt-
the arrival of both legal and illegal immigrants ing up of the river contributed to Seville’s
from Europe, Africa and Latin America. long decline. Seville fell very quickly to the
Nationalists at the start of the Spanish Civil
War in 1936. Things looked up a few decades
SEVILLE later in the 1980s when Seville was named
capital of the new autonomous Andalucía
pop 700,000 within democratic Spain, and sevillano Felipe
Conjure your most vivid image of Andalucía – González became Spain’s prime minister. The
proud men in black sombreros, flamenco danc- Expo ’92 international exhibition (1992)
ers, hooded penitents following a candlelit brought to the city millions of visitors, eight
statue of the Virgin, a matador unfurling his new bridges across the Guadalquivir and the
scarlet cape – and it comes alive in Seville. speedy AVE rail link to Madrid. And in the
All this and more is played out with intense new century, where less is more, Seville is
passion in Andalucía’s capital city, espe- already experimenting with green initiatives,
cially during the city’s Semana Santa (Holy including trams (p730) that glide quietly
Week) and its annual feria (fair) in spring. alongside the city’s antique monuments to
Yet Seville doesn’t rest on its historic laurels; past glory.
lonelyplanet.com S E V I L L E • • O r i e n t a t i o n 711

ORIENTATION LTC (Map pp714-15; %954 42 59 64; Avenida Menéndez

Seville straddles Río Guadalquivir, with Pelayo 46; hclosed Sat) Andalucía’s top map shop.
most places of interest found on the river’s
east bank. The central area is a tangle of nar- Emergency (%112)
row, twisting old streets and small squares, Ambulance (%061)
with the exception of Plaza Nueva and the Policía Local (%092)
broad, straight Avenida de la Constitución. Policía Nacional (%091)
Just east of Constitución are the city’s major
monuments: the cathedral, La Giralda and Internet Access
the Alcázar fortress-palace. The quaint Barrio Internetia (Map pp712-13; Avenida Menéndez Pelayo 45;
de Santa Cruz, east of the cathedral and the per hr €2; h11am-11pm every day)
Alcázar, is a popular place to stay and eat. Sevilla Internet Center (Map pp714-15; %954 50 02
The true centre of Seville, El Centro, is a little 75; 1st fl, Calle Almirantazgo 2 (cnr Avenida Constitución &
further north, around Plaza de San Francisco Calle Almirantazgo); per min €0.05; h9am-10pm Mon-
and Plaza Salvador. The area between Avenida Fri, 10am-10pm Sat & Sun)
de la Constitución and the river is called
El Arenal. Internet Resources
The train station and the two bus stations Discover Sevilla (www.discoversevilla.com) This is an
are on the periphery of the central area, all excellent, comprehensive site.
served by city buses that circle the centre Explore Seville (www.exploreseville.com)
(p729): Prado de San Sebastián bus station is Seville Tourism (www.turismo.sevilla.org) The city’s
650m southeast of the cathedral and within informative official tourism site.
walking distance of the Barrio de Santa Cruz;
Plaza de Armas bus station is 900m northwest Laundry

ANDALUCÍA
of the cathedral, within walking distance of El Laundries here do the job for you (usually in
Arenal; and Santa Justa train station is 1.5km half a day), with washing, drying and folding
northeast of the cathedral. included in their prices.
Lavandería Roma (Map pp714-15; %954 21 05 35;
INFORMATION Calle Castelar 2C; per load €6; h9.30am-1.30pm &
Bookshops 5-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat)
Casa del Libro (Map pp714-15; %954 50 29 50; Calle La Segunda Vera (Map pp714-15; %954 53 63 76;
Velázquez 8; h9.30am-9.30pm Mon-Sat) Maps and Avenida Menendez Pelayo; per load €10; h9am-2pm &
guidebooks 5.30-8.30pm Mon-Fri, closed Sat)

SEVILLE IN…

Two Days
On your first morning, visit the cathedral (p717) and Giralda (p717) then wander through the
Barrio de Santa Cruz (p719) and enjoy lunch at the Corral del Agua (p725) or Restaurante
La Albahaca (p725). In the afternoon head over to Río Guadalquivir and visit the Plaza de
Toros (p720) or the Museo de Bellas Artes (p720). Devote the evening to a relaxed tour of a
few tapas bars!
Give your second morning to the Alcázar (p718) before heading up to El Centro to visit the
Palacio de la Condesa de Lebrija (p720) and some of the city-centre shops. In the evening take
in a flamenco performance and check out some of the bars in El Centro (p727) or around the
Alameda de Hércules (p727).

Four Days
On day three relax with a visit to the leafy Parque de María Luisa (p720) and its museums, followed
by whichever of the sights you missed on day one. Treat yourself to dinner at a classy restaurant
such as the Egaña Oriza (p725) or Enrique Becerra (p726). On day four venture out to Santiponce
to explore the Roman Itálica (p730) and Monasterio de San Isidoro del Campo (p730). Wind up
with a night out enjoying some live music and, if it’s the weekend, a nightclub (p727).
 ANDALUCÍA
0 500 m
SEVILLE 0 0.3 miles

z
lve
C lsa

tos
ac
712 S E V I L L E

h
Gá
Newto
n
no
Lago C

sé
Isla
n ta

Jo
Isla de la Dr M a
rañ

era
Mágica on

bnmlé
C
Cartuja
Mo
C Dr Leal C
astano

ue

Rib
6 C Sor F Dorotea
o

er a

escu
Ro lle

de
driq
ib
Pin

nd Sa
C Ma a la

Av
rie Cu de
de

los D
e R
rie Pio de
23 an

nd
Av

XI Ju
V n

o
o de
C Don Fa
Ju a

ci
Sa

ci
Puente de la Parlamento C

an
Barqueta de Andalucía

Camin
CS
C Alb 22

Vespu
da Vin
ert Ein
stein INFORMATION

ardo

érico
Internetia.....................................1 D5

C Manuel Villaobo

n
C de

s
Resola
na 29 Regional Tourist Office.................2 F4

C Am
C

C Leo
C Ch
arles 27 M
Darw uñ SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
in 4

CC
oz

l
11
Basílica de Jesús del Gran Poder...3 C3

Le

era

alat
Basílica de La Macarena...............4 D2

r
ón
Roja Espacio Meteora..........................5 D3

C P

ava
CL

C Parras
umb ruz

C de la Feria
Auditorio de Isla Mágica...................................6 B1

C F Alvarez
rera
la Cartuja s la C
Lenguaviva..................................7 C3
de
C Re l ator

a Clara
Museola C Arqueológico................... 8 D8

nte
16

C San
Av

20 A de
Museolbde
res

Vice
aid Artese y Costumbres

cules
flo

a ad

Luis
Populares................................. D8

C Sant
15 9

C
ira

Conjunto C Arrayán Macarena Ro aon

San de
19 nd Sevilla Danceaemr Centre..................10 B3
eM

Monumental rCet
d

ad
de la Cartuja 18 C S r
e

Ca
Av

anta
21 14

a de Hér
Cu C An
r tidu
rías Plaza San a a
di ter a SLEEPING
Antonio rre on Hotel San Gil..............................11 D2
de Padua en 5 Ca Cam
m

Alamed

eo
17 eta de
3 L

rn
der
Plaza r
Capuchinos

32 D EATING

To
C Pa s c

l
ual de 10 12 de San C Antigua Abacería San Lorenzo...12 C3
Puente de

de
Gayango
s Lorenzo

ran Po
San

la Cartuja

C
Plaza San C 7 C Castellar Casa Cuesta...............................13 B5
(footbridge) C de Martín Vi

osío
l Cid
tes
Jua

Baños r ia

s
33 to

s del G
DRINKING

i
or
van

ajano
nBos

D
m
c

Bulebar Café..............................14 C3
o

Migue
Juan
tos Tavera

C Teod
C Cer

C Tr
d

C Jesú
C
Café Central...............................15 C3

C
l
Plaza So

uivir
l Habanilla....................................16 C3

C San
C Bus

Concordia de

C Marqés
C CS

de Paradas
atu To Airport (7km);

adalq
C Alf Plaza de la rno Carmona (35km);

u
onso
XII Encarnación Córdoba (143km)
daca C
30
C Laraña C Estación

Río G
Imagen C A Apo Jos
é Santa Justa
La
ll gu
illo
24 nne El Centro ty
o

'Do

C Ma
Puente del 25 CO 2 Ci

rq
rieg

To Santiponce (7km); Cachorro as

o ns

ill
asa

Huelva (94km) de 28
Av del Cristo Ka

un

ués d
z C

la Expiración ny

M
Plaza ta Av
s
nde

C de
C Salvador ve 26
lonelyplanet.com

Mé

e Para

A
Ca

P
C
 C

C
o

Pa
C San E

s
ni

adas
steb

eo
an to

Arjona
Plaza An

de
Plaza

s
de San

an
Nueva

Nu
ico
Ju
Francisco

es
tól
C Madrid 1 C

C
a

tra
Ca
lin

s
de

Se
Mo

ye

C
ño
L ui
de

r
Re
s Mo

a
ote

C
ntoto

Ca
C

de
Arg

sti

Al
ll
C

la

a
C de Ad

far
O
rian
lonelyplanet.com

El o

erí
a
13 Puente de Arenal To Osuna (91km);
Triana Málaga (217km);

os
(Puente de Barrio de C Granada (254km)

mp
Av de la Constitu
Plaza del Isabel II) CD
C Ca Altozano Plaza del Santa Cruz e
de
CA Triunfo

ción
les

los metrio los

Pa
Rio d

ayo
Pir

se
s e

Pa
o
ine

el
o

gé
s
Mora

s
de
zP

C
Alcázar as

Cr
Estadio

de
uer

C
de

is
n de
l
Luis

Vig Sánchez

tó

de
né
Cor
ro Alcázar án Pizjuán

ba
to

l
p it Av d

la
s
c in Gardens Ca e Edu

Me
C de

Ja C Jardines ard
o

l B Pu
Co
n diz

haira

ló
Av
Puerta de la Da t o

eti rez
Av de Cá

n
Sa

a
C Triana de Jerez Av Buhaira
C Sa Má
n Fern laga
an
r

Plaza do
Plaza San
San Martin Sebastián
n Fra
Javie ncisco

de Porres
Av de la Bu
Av

s ta
de

eli
Av Sa

Puente de

Cid
Plaza Ca r

ng
los
de Cuba San Telmo Prado V

va
de l
E de San

C
aj o Sebastian ENTERTAINMENT

Av

Jua
rab C d
e En El Almacén...............................(see 17)
lT See Central Seville Map (pp714–15))

C
de ram
ad Fun Club....................................16 C3

n Se
C illa

a
na

Lo
31 Av
nti de La Imperdible.............................17 B3

pe
ge

z
Av

ia
Ar Port

RábidLa
Weekend...................................18 B3

d
ca uga

bastian
l

de
Lus
bli
pú

e Is
e b la

Go
ria
aR Plaza de

ab
l l Ni e SHOPPING
de España

ma
Elcano
de

Ma
Av Mercadillo..................................19 D3

el la
C

ra
Av
Av

Cat
Ram
a TRANSPORT ón
uri

ólic
y C

a
lT

C de la Asunción

C
de Bus C1 Stop............................... 20 aA3
jal

C de Monte Carmelo
C Bus C1 Stop................................21 B2

San
ta
nte C Virgen de Luján Parque de Bus C2 Stop................................22 C1
nfa Parque Puente del

Fe
sI Generalísimo Maria Luisa Bus C3 Stop...............................23 B4
Bla de los
C Remedios Bus C4 Stop...............................24 B4
Buses C1 & 32...........................25 F4
olla
arrio

Buses C1 & C3.......................... 26 D2

o B la nc o
ez B

Buses C2 & 32...........................27 F4

r re r
Los
Buses C2 & C4...........................28 D2

Ca
Remedios
artin

Pas

C Virgen del Valle

9 Estación de Autobuses
l Merry Plaza
eo

Feria de Abril te C Genera

Av de Borb

en de Armas...............................29 B4
go M

Parque de Av de Ramón de Carranza C P re s i d Plaza de

de

C de Felipe
II
Atracciones América Sevilla Tour & Tour Por Sevilla
las
C Die

Bus Stop...............................(see 21)

8
Sevilla Tour & Tour Por Sevilla
D el

El Real
de la Feria To Fundación Bus Stop.................................30 D7
ici a

Ronda

C Antonio
Cristina Heeren de
s

de Mar
ía Aux Arte Flamenco (1.5km); To Hospital Sevilla Tour Bus Stop..................31 A3
iliador
a-Los R
emedio Jerez de la Frontera (90km); Virgen del Rocío Tour Por Sevilla Bus Stop...........32 A3
s Cádiz (123km) (900m)
S E V I L L E 713

ANDALUCÍA
 ANDALUCÍA
0 200 m
CENTRAL SEVILLE 0 0.1 miles
C de B
arños

der
tes
CS
Jd
e la
Pa

de Dio
ervan

jano
lm

ran Po
a

C C
C G
ero

m or

C Tra
na

Juan
a

s del G
Cruz
H

CA
ónimo ernández
C J er

Taver

C D

C Sa n
C Card
enal C

C Jesú
ao
isne ol

íz

Cid
34
ros Plaza lS

l
gela de la
de
C Teni Concordia C
ente Bo

C Bustos
rges
Plaza del
Duque de

C Migue
C Sor Án
C Alfo
nso la Victoria
XII
88 Plaza
714 S E V I L L E • • C e n t r a l S e v i l l e

89 Plaza de la
a Encarnación Ponce
Plaza C Ta rif de León Plaza Padre
del Jerónimo
26 Museo
C Campan
a C Laraña a Córdoba
C Im dac C
agen Apo Az
C A
C

C Monsa afr
lves án
33
Sa

58
nt

ro 27
óndiga

To 48
iag

el
o

od
C Pe d r Plaza Cristo

E s c a rp
C y ell 1
C Al h

C ín
Elo nn de Burgos
C Carrión Mejías

Sa n Do
40 nR Sa O'
C C 16

C
s
P Mártir 35 o ro

qu
an C Rive Plaza

S
C Sier
de

e
C
32

C
Ba Jesús de la

pes
Galdó
i lé n C Don
o

87 A nso Redención
Plaza de la el Sabillo
o
n c is c

Magdalena

C de la Cu
60

Velázqu
Fra

as

ltas
78
rez
alej

na
El Centro

ez
24
C

an 72

C Si
o

C C 15 i

Revue ete
86
C Pé

Plaza ud
C Za m
C

C Alcaicería de la 76

C
Im

Alfalfa

C
17
pe

C S ag a s t a

Gr
C
r

28
ia l

J o vellanos

av
Ju
lio 79 Plaza 52
61

in a
Salvador

C Tetuán
Ce
sa 25 C u esta Rosario
C Águilas

C M
r 77
C A lb
areda 62 C San

arq
C A Bonifaz Plaza de Este
19 Pilatos
ban
ey

ués d
lR

C
C Bilbao

S
l de

a
ra

e Para
C Ayuntamiento

d
Plaza

nta
or

as
Za Nueva 14 C

s P
ra g
oz a C
96

atr
on
te

C Madrid Plaza de San

as
C

os
Francisco
s

CS

t
C Álvarez Quintero

lic
Pa
na

C ho
víe

an

Plaza de 43

tó
lemen

oli

sto Pa C

a
r ui c
Le

Malviedro
M

dre
CH

84

y
Jo s

JG Ai

sC
59
nC

re
C

Ma de
ros

53

La
C

ye
e

rch
73
erna

nd
ot

Re
en 41 69
C Federico Rubio

Mercado

er
C Sa

7 a A rg

o
C o nt e

C
45
ndo

del Arenal 71 C
lonelyplanet.com
 C
C
C

zo
63 38

C de
Se

Ca
ma
Jim
75 95 80 go

Colón

ste
C via

Ga

la
ios
s

r
V

C
Sa
Le C F 49

go
nt

o
ab
C de Adria al

io
no

C Abadés
Ga
os
5 C Alemanes 47

la
83

aM

ond
er

a
h
uesa 39

eo

C
rc
o

ría
e Vin 74

at
rcía d Patio de los ci s A

Rem Don
21

M
En

La
C Ga 44 Naranjos 56 C

C
Bl
C Plaza de 50
20

an
29 Virgen de nez 6

ca
lonelyplanet.com

Ar imé
54 82

Av de la Constit
fe

C
los Reyes C X 37
az

Sa
C R
Dí Cathedral 51 46
ia

nD
4

ución
55 Barrio de CP

C
to n 67 uer

Caro
An Santa Cruz ta

iego
C

Pa
Car de la
Plaza ne

vía
10 11 66 Refinadores 42 C
18 de Dem
El 23 los etrio
Plaza del 64 36 85 Plaza de Rio
Arenal Santa Cruz s
Rí Triunfo Plaza de los

Pa
oG
13 Plaza

se
8

o
o 30 Doña Elvira Venerables

C Tom
ua
ay

de
da 57
lq M Jardines
de

Cr
ui s de Murillo

as de
r
Ca

ist
vir ás

C ia

C T
Do om ua

ób
G lo l l e j
C Alcázar Ag

a
Teatro de la oT ón
del

emp
a nt

lC
Maestranza el

Ibarra
CS gu

ol
22 i ara

ón
rado
C MMañ
de Plaza

C
ayo

Contratación

de
Pel

9
Alcázar

Mi
z

lB
C D
Gardens s

eti
de

ra n

s
era

n
97 u

eáda
nén

See Alcázar Map (p718) Vig

án

C
C Rod
Me

rigo pit

de
Ca
Av

la
2

Pu
diz

re
68 93 Av de Cá
31

za
Puerta
de Jerez
Av
70 92 Má
CS lag a
an
Fern
an d 91
o
81
3
65

Plaza 94
Triana San
C P Sebastián
alos
de
la
Puente de

ma
San Telmo 12
Av

e Ro
de C
90 arlo
s
Frontera

Pas
Plaza

Av d
de Cuba

eo
Cid

de

C
de l

Prado de

las
San Sebastian
Av

Juan
S
De

eba
lici
as

stian
Av

Elca
Port de

no
uga
l
S E V I L L E • • C e n t r a l S e v i l l e 715

ANDALUCÍA
 716 S E V I L L E • • I n f o r m a t i o n lonelyplanet.com

INFORMATION Hospas las Casas del Rey de Antigüedades........................... 71 D5

Casa del Libro............................. 1 C2 Baeza....................................33 F2 Bare Nostrum........................... 72 D3
Centro de Salud El Porvenir.........2 F7 Hostal Museo............................34 B1 Big Ben...................................(see 70)
Ciber Alcázar...............................3 E7 Hostal Residencia Naranjo.........35 B3 Cabo Loco..............................(see 72)
La Segunda Vera.........................4 F5 Hostería del Laurel....................36 E6 Café Isbiliyya............................ 73 A4
Lavandería Roma........................ 5 C5 Hotel Alcántara.........................37 E5 Casa Morales............................ 74 C5
LTC.............................................6 F5 Hotel Amadeus.........................38 E5 El Capote.................................. 75 A5
Municipal Tourist Office............. 7 A4 Hotel Goya................................39 E5 El Garlochi.................................76 E3
Post Office................................. 8 C6 Hotel Madrid............................40 A3 La Antigua Bodeguita............... 77 D3
Regional Tourist Office............... 9 D6 Hotel Maestranza..................... 41 C4 La Rebótica............................... 78 D3
Seville Internet Center.............. 10 C5 Hotel Puerta de Sevilla..............42 F5 La Sapotales............................. 79 D3
Turismo Sevilla......................... 11 D5 Hotel San Francisco.................. 43 D4 Muí d'Aquí.............................(see 70)
Hotel Simón.............................. 44 C5 Nao........................................(see 72)
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Hotel Vincci La Rábida..............45 B4 P Flaherty Irish Pub................... 80 D5
Antigua Fábrica de Tabacos Huéspedes Dulces Sueños.........46 F5 Sirocca....................................(see 70)
(Universidad de Sevilla)........ 12 D8 Las Casas de la Judería..............47 F5
Archivo de Indias..................... 13 D6 Oasis Backpackers Hostel......... 48 D2 ENTERTAINMENT
Ayuntamiento.......................... 14 C4 Pensión Córdoba.......................49 E5 Boss..........................................81 B7
Capilla de San José................... 15 C3 Pensión San Pancracio...............50 E5 Casa de la Memoria de
Carpe Diem.............................. 16 D3 Un Patio en Santa Cruz.............51 F5 Al-Andalus............................82 E5
Casa de Pilatos..........................17 F3 Empresa Pagés..........................83 B5
Cathedral Entrance................... 18 D5 EATING La Carbonería............................84 F4
CLIC......................................... 19 C4 Bar Alfalfa.................................52 E3 Los Gallos..................................85 E6
Giralda..................................... 20 D5 Bar Levíes..................................53 E4
Giralda Center...........................21 E5 Bodega Santa Cruz....................54 E5 SHOPPING
Hospital de la Caridad............... 22 C6 Café Bar Las Teresas..................55 E5 El Corte Inglés...........................86 C2
Hospital de los Venerables Cervecería Giralda.................... 56 D5 El Corte Inglés...........................87 C2
Sacerdotes............................23 E6 Corral del Agua.........................57 E6 El Corte Inglés...........................88 B3
Iglesia de la Magdalena.............24 B3 El Patio San Eloy....................... 58 C2 El Corte Inglés...........................89 B3
LINC.........................................25 C3 Enrique Becerra......................... 59 C4
Maritime Museum..................(see 31) Habanita................................... 60 D3 TRANSPORT
ANDALUCÍA

Museo de Bellas Artes............... 26 A2 La Bodega.................................61 E3 Bus 1 Stop.................................90 E7

Palacio de la Condesa de La Trastienda.............................62 E3 Bus 36/37 Stop.........................91 E7
Lebrija.................................. 27 D2 Porta Rossa...............................63 B5 Bus C4 Stop..............................92 E8
Parroquia del Salvador.............. 28 D3 Restaurant La Cueva.................64 E6 Cruceros Turísticos Torre del
Plaza de Toros de la Real Restaurante Egaña Oriza...........65 E7 Oro.......................................93 B7
Maestranza...........................29 B5 Restaurante La Albahaca...........66 E5 Estación de Autobuses Prado
Reales Atarazanas (Royal Restaurante Modesto................67 F5 de San Sebastián.................. 94 F7
Shipyards)............................ 30 C6 Ristorante Cosa Nostra..............68 B7 Parking Paseo de Colón............ 95 A5
Torre del Oro........................... 31 C7 Robles Placentines.................... 69 D4 Renfe Ticket Office...................96 B4
Sevilla Tour Bus Stop.................97 B6
SLEEPING DRINKING
Casa Sol y Luna........................ 32 D3 Alambique................................ 70 B7

Media Post
El Giraldillo Andalucía-wide what’s-on mag, free at tour- Post office (Map pp714-15; Avenida de la
ist offices and some hotels, with a strong Seville emphasis. Constitución 32)
Tourist Free mag for tourists with worthwhile
information. Telephone
Welcome & Olé Ditto. Ciber Alcázar (Map pp714-15; %954 21 04 01; Calle
San Fernando 35; h10.00am-11.00pm Mon-Fri, noon-
Medical Services 11.00pm Sat & Sun) offers inexpensive international calls
Centro de Salud El Porvenir (Map pp714-15; %954 (as well as several internet booths).
71 23 23; cnr Avenidas Menéndez y Pelayo & de Cádiz)
Public clinic with emergency service. Tourist Information
Hospital Virgen del Rocío (%955 01 20 00; Avenida Municipal tourist office (Map pp714-15; %954 22
de Manuel Siurot s/n) The main general hospital, 1km 17 14; barranco.turismo@sevilla.org; Calle de Arjona 28;
south of Parque de María Luisa. h9am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat & Sun, reduced
hrs during Semana Santa & Feria de Abril)
Money Regional tourist offices Avenida de la Constitución 21
There’s no shortage of banks and ATMs in (Map pp714-15; %954 22 14 04; otsevilla@andalucia
the central area. Santa Justa train station, the .org; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm & 3-7pm Sat,
airport and both bus stations have ATMs. 10am-2pm Sun, closed holidays); Estación Santa Justa
lonelyplanet.com S E V I L L E • • S i g h t s 717

(Map pp712-13; %954 53 76 26; h9am-8pm Mon- CAPILLA MAYOR

Fri, 10am-2pm Sat & Sun, closed holidays). Towards the east end of the main nave is the
Turismo Sevilla (Map pp714-15; %954 21 00 05; Capilla Mayor, whose Gothic altarpiece is
www.turismosevilla.org; Plaza del Triunfo 1; h10.30am- the jewel of the cathedral and reckoned to be
7pm Mon-Fri) the biggest altarpiece in the world. Begun by
Flemish sculptor Pieter Dancart in 1482 and
SIGHTS completed by others by 1564, this sea of gilded
Seville’s major monuments, the cathedral, and polychromed wood holds more than 1000
the Giralda and the Alcázar complex, are all carved biblical figures.
just east of Avenida de la Constitución and
south of the city’s true centre (El Centro). SACRISTIES & CHAPTER HOUSE
But there’s plenty more to see and do in El South of the Capilla Mayor you’ll find rooms
Centro and around. containing many of the cathedral’s art treas-
ures. The westernmost of these is the Sacristía
Cathedral & Giralda de los Cálices (Sacristy of the Chalices), where
After Seville fell to the Christians in 1248 its Goya’s 1817 painting of the Seville martyrs
main mosque was used as a church until 1401 Santas Justa y Rufina (potter sisters who died
when, in view of its decaying state, the church at the hands of the Romans in AD 287) hangs
authorities decided to knock it down and start above the altar. A lion licks Rufina’s feet, as
again. Seville’s cathedral (Map pp714-15; %954 21 reputedly happened when she was thrown
49 71; adult/concession/under 12yr €7.50/1.50/free, admission to the said beasts during her travails. The
free Sun; h11am-6pm Mon-Sat, 2.30-7pm Sun Sep-Jun, room’s centrepiece is the Custodia de Juan de
9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat, 2.30-7pm Sun Jul & Aug) is one Arfe, a huge 475kg silver monstrance made in
of the largest in the world: the main building the 1580s by Renaissance metal smith Juan
de Arfe. Displayed in a glass case are the city

ANDALUCÍA
is 126m long and 83m wide. It was completed
by 1507 and was originally Gothic, though keys handed to the conquering Fernando
work done after its central dome collapsed III in 1248.
in 1511 was mostly in the Renaissance style. The beautifully domed cabildo (chapter
The original mosque’s beautiful minaret, La house), in the southeastern corner of the ca-
Giralda, still stands on its eastern side (see thedral, was built between 1558 and 1592 to
right). There is wheelchair access. the designs of Hernán Ruiz, architect of the
Giralda belfry. High above the archbishop’s
SALA DEL PABELLÓN throne at the southern end is a Murillo mas-
Selected treasures from the cathedral’s art col- terpiece, La Inmaculada. Eight Murillo saints
lection are exhibited in this first room after adorn the dome.
the ticket office.
GIRALDA
CATHEDRAL CHAPELS & STAINED GLASS In the northeastern corner of the cathedral
The sheer size of the broad, five-naved cathe- interior you’ll find the passage for the climb
dral is obscured by a welter of interior decora- up the Giralda. The ascent is quite easy, as a
tion typical of Spanish cathedrals. Near the series of ramps – built so that the guards could
western end of the northern side is the Capilla ride up on horseback – goes all the way up.
de San Antonio, with Murillo’s large 1666 canvas The climb affords great views.
depicting the vision of St Anthony of Padua; Over 90m high, La Giralda was the minaret
thieves excised the kneeling saint in 1874 but of the mosque that stood on the site before the
he was found in New York and put back. cathedral, constructed in brick by Almohad
caliph Yusuf Yacub al-Mansur between 1184
COLUMBUS’ TOMB and 1198. Its proportions, decoration and
Inside the cathedral’s southern door stands colour make it perhaps Spain’s most perfect
the elaborate tomb of Christopher Columbus, Islamic building. The topmost parts (from the
dating from 1902. However, the remains bell level up) were added in the 16th century.
within the tomb are the subject of heated de- At the very top is El Giraldillo, a 16th-century
bate, with some arguing that the explorer is bronze weathervane, which represents Faith
(mainly) buried in the Dominican Republic. and is a symbol of Seville.
 718 S E V I L L E • • S i g h t s lonelyplanet.com

PATIO DE LOS NARANJOS PATIO DEL LEÓN

Planted with over 60 orange trees, this was The Lion Patio was the garrison yard of
originally the courtyard where Muslims per- the Al-Muwarak palace. Off here, the Sala
formed ablutions before entering the mosque. de la Justicia (Hall of Justice), with beautiful
On its north side is the beautiful Islamic Mudéjar plasterwork, was built in the 1340s
Puerta del Perdón. by Alfonso XI, who disported here with his
mistress Leonor de Guzmán. Alfonso’s dalli-
Alcázar ances left his heir Pedro I (El Cruel/Justiciero)
Residence of many generations of kings and with five half-brothers and a severe case of
caliphs, the Alcázar (Map pp714-15; %954 50 23 23; sibling rivalry. One of the half-brothers, Don
adult/under 16yr, senior, student, disabled €7/free; h9.30am- Fadrique, died in the Sala de la Justicia. The
8pm Tue-Sat, to 6pm Sun & holidays Apr-Sep, to 6pm Tue-Sat, room gives on to the pretty Patio del Yeso, a
to 2.30pm Sun & holidays Oct-Mar) is Seville’s answer 19th-century reconstruction of part of the
to Granada’s Alhambra. It stands south of the 12th-century Almohad palace.
cathedral across Plaza del Triunfo and is wheel-
chair accessible. This intriguing complex is inti- PATIO DE LA MONTERÍA
mately associated with the life and loves of the The rooms on the western side of this patio
extraordinary Pedro I of Castilla (1350–69). were part of the Casa de la Contratación,
Originally founded as a fort for the founded by the Catholic Monarchs in 1503 to
Cordoban governors of Seville in 913, the control American trade. The Sala de Audiencias
Alcázar has been expanded and rebuilt many contains the earliest known painting on the
times in its 11 centuries of existence. The discovery of the Americas (by Alejo Fernández,
Catholic Monarchs, Fernando and Isabel, set 1530s), in which Columbus, Fernando El
up court here in the 1480s as they prepared for Católico, Carlos I, Amerigo Vespucci and
ANDALUCÍA

the conquest of Granada. Later rulers created Native Americans can be seen sheltered beneath
the Alcázar’s lovely gardens. the Virgin in her role as protector of sailors.

ALCÁZAR 0 50 m

A B C D
Plaza del
Triunfo
SIGHTS
Apeadero...........................................1 B2
Baños de Doña María de Padilla
1 (Entrance).......................................2 B3

ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
Cámara Regia.....................................3 B3
7
Cuarto del Príncipe.............................4 A3
Jardín de las Danzas...........................5 B3
Patio de la Montería...........................6 B2
13 Patio de las Banderas (Exit).................7 B1
Patio de las Doncellas.........................8 B3
Patio de las Muñecas..........................9 A3
Patio del Crucero..............................10 B2
ara
Mañ 11
Patio del León..................................11 A2
l de
igue Patio del Yeso...................................12 B2

ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
eM
Call 1 Puerta del León (Entrance)................13 A1
15 Sala de Audiencias............................14 A3
12
Sala de la Justicia..............................15 B2
2 Sala de las Bóvedas...........................16 B3
Salón de Embajadores.......................17 B3
6 Salón de Tapices...............................18 B3
Salón del Techo de Felipe II..............19 B3
Palacio de 10
Don Pedro

ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
14 18
3 Salones de 16
Call

Carlos V
4
e D

Alm

9
8
eá

2
oha
n M

17 5
d
ir

3 19
and
a

Wa
ll

Gardens
lonelyplanet.com S E V I L L E • • S i g h t s 719

PALACIO DE DON PEDRO (MUDEJAR the east are 20th-century creations. From the
PALACE) little Jardín de las Danzas (Garden of the Dances)
He might have been ‘the Cruel’, but between a passage runs beneath the Salones de Carlos
1360 and 1364 Pedro I humbly built his ex- V to the grotto known as the Baños de Doña
quisite palace in ‘perishable’ ceramics, plaster María de Padilla.
and wood, obedient to the Quran’s prohibi- From the new gardens you can leave the
tion against ‘eternal’ structures, reserved for Alcázar via the Apeadero, a 17th-century en-
the Creator. trance hall, and the Patio de las Banderas (Patio
At the heart of the palace is the wonderful of the Banners).
Patio de las Doncellas (Patio of the Maidens),
surrounded by beautiful arches and exquisite Archivo de Indias
plasterwork and tiling. In 2004 archaeologists On the western side of Plaza del Triunfo, the
uncovered its original sunken garden from Archivo de Indias (Map pp714-15; %954 21 12 34; Calle
beneath a 16th-century marble covering. Santo Tomás, admission free; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat, 10am-
The Cámara Regia (King’s Quarters) on the 2pm Sun & holidays, closed 25 Dec, 1 & 6 Jan & Good Friday) is
northern side of the patio has two rooms with the main archive on Spain’s American empire,
stunning ceilings. Just west is the small Patio with 80 million pages of documents dating
de las Muñecas (Patio of the Dolls), the heart from 1492 through to the end of the empire
of the palace’s private quarters, with delicate in the 19th century: a most effective state-
Granada-style decoration; indeed, plasterwork ment of Spain’s power and influence during
was actually brought here from the Alhambra its Golden Age.
in the 19th century. The Cuarto del Príncipe
(Prince’s Quarters), to its north, has a excellent Barrio de Santa Cruz
wooden cupola ceiling recreating a starlit night Seville’s medieval judería (Map pp714–15;
sky and was probably the queen’s bedroom. Jewish quarter), east of the cathedral and

ANDALUCÍA
The spectacular Salón de Embajadores (Hall Alcázar, is today a tangle of quaint, winding
of Ambassadors), off the western end of the streets and lovely plant-decked plazas per-
Patio de las Doncellas, was Pedro I’s throne fumed with orange blossom. Its most charac-
room and incorporates caliphal-style door teristic plaza today is Plaza de Santa Cruz, which
arches from the earlier Al-Muwarak palace. gives the barrio its name.
Its fabulous wooden dome of multiple star The 17th-century Hospital de los Venerables
patterns, symbolising the universe, was added Sacerdotes (Map pp714-15; %954 56 26 96; Plaza de los
in 1427. On its western side, the beautiful Arco Venerables 8; adult/student & senior/under 12yr €4.75/2.40/
de Pavones, with peacock motifs, leads into the free, admission free Sun afternoon; h10am-2pm & 4-8pm)
Salón del Techo de Felipe II. was a residence for aged priests, and has a
lovely central courtyard.
SALONES DE CARLOS V
Reached by a staircase from the Patio de las El Centro
Doncellas, these are the rooms of Alfonso X’s The real centre of Seville is the densely packed
13th-century Gothic palace, much remodelled zone of narrow streets north of the cathedral
since his time. It was here that Alfonso’s in- (Map pp714–15).
tellectual court gathered and, a century later,
Pedro I installed the mistress he loved, María PLAZA DE SAN FRANCISCO & CALLE
de Padilla. The Sala de las Bóvedas (Hall of the SIERPES
Vault) is adorned with beautiful 1570s tiling, Plaza de San Francisco has been Seville’s
while the Salón de Tapices (Tapestry Room) has main public square since the 16th cen-
huge 18th-century tapestries showing Carlos tury. The southern end of the ayuntamiento
I’s 1535 conquest of Tunis. (town hall; Map pp714-15) here is encrusted with
lovely Renaissance carving from the 1520s
GARDENS & EXIT and ’30s.
From the Salones de Carlos V, enter the Pedestrianised Calle Sierpes, heading
Alcázar’s large gardens. Those in front of the north from the plaza, and the parallel Calle
Salones de Carlos V and Palacio de Don Pedro Tetuán/Velázquez are the hub of Seville’s
were mostly brought to their present form in fanciest shopping zone. Between the two
the 16th and 17th centuries, while those to streets is the 18th-century Capilla de San
 720 S E V I L L E • • S i g h t s lonelyplanet.com

José (Map pp714-15; Calle Jovellanos; h8am-12.30pm as a customs shed, it became an army arsenal
& 6.30-8.30pm), with breathtakingly intense and warehouse in the 18th century, then lan-
baroque ornamentation. guished until 1993. It’s now being restored
The Palacio de la Condesa de Lebrija (Map pp714- and is destined to be the splendid new home
15; %954 22 78 02; Calle de la Cuna 8; whole bldg/ground fl of the city’s maritime museum.
only admission €8/4; h10.30am-1.30pm & 5-8pm Mon-Fri,
10am-1.30pm Sat), a block east of Calle Sierpes, is HOSPITAL DE LA CARIDAD
a 16th-century noble mansion remodelled in A marvellous sample of Sevillean golden-age
1914 by traveller and art connoisseur Doña art adorns the church in this charity hospice
Regla Manjón, Countess of Lebrija. (Map pp714-15; %954 22 32 32; Calle Temprado 3; admis-
sion €5 with audioguide, free Sun & holidays for EU citizens;
PLAZA SALVADOR h9am-1.30pm & 3.30-7.30pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun & holi-
This plaza, which has a few popular bars, was days) a block from the river. The hospital was
once the forum of Roman Hispalis. It’s domi- founded in the 17th century by Miguel de
nated by the Parroquia del Salvador (Map pp714– Mañara, a legendary libertine who changed
15), a big baroque church built between 1674 his ways after experiencing a vision of his
and 1712 on the site of Muslim Ishbiliya’s own funeral procession. Seventeenth-century
main mosque. The interior reveals a fantastic masterpieces include Valdés Leal’s frightening
richness of carving and gilding. At sunset, col- In Ictu Oculi (In the Blink of an Eye) and Finis
our from stained glass windows plays on the Gloriae Mundi (The End of Earthly Glory).
carvings to enhance their surreal beauty.
PLAZA DE TOROS DE LA REAL
CASA DE PILATOS MAESTRANZA
Another of the city’s finest noble mansions (Map Seville’s bullring (Map pp714-15; %954 22 45 77; www
.realmaestranza.es; Paseo de Cristóbal Colón 12; tours adult/
ANDALUCÍA

pp714-15; %954 22 52 98; Calle Águilas; whole house/lower

fl only admission €8/5, EU citizen 1-5pm Tue free; h9am- over-65 €5/4; hhalf-hourly 9.30am-7pm Nov-Apr, 9.30am-
7pm Apr-Oct, 9am-6pm Nov-Mar), 500m northeast of 8pm, May-Oct, 9.30am-3pm bullfighting days, closed Good
the cathedral, is still occupied by the ducal Friday & Christmas Day) is one of the most handsome
Medinaceli family. This extensive and splen- in Spain and probably the oldest (building
did 16th-century building is a mixture of began in 1758). It was here, and in the ring at
diverse architectural styles. Ronda, that bullfighting on foot (instead of
horseback) began in the 18th century.
El Arenal
A short walk west from Avenida de la MUSEO DE BELLAS ARTES
Constitución brings you to the bank of Set in a beautiful former convent, Seville’s
Río Guadalquivir, lined by a pleasant foot- fine-arts museum (Map pp714-15; %954 78 65 00; Plaza
path. The nearby district of El Arenal (Map del Museo 9; adult/EU citizen, retired, students, €1.50/free;
pp714–15) is home to some of Seville’s most h2.30-8.30pm Tue, 9am-8.30pm Wed-Sat, to 2.30pm Sun,
interesting sights. closed Mon) does full justice to Seville’s lead-
ing role in Spain’s artistic golden age. The
TORRE DEL ORO museum is wheelchair accessible.
This 13th-century riverbank Islamic watch-
tower supposedly had a dome covered in South of the Centre
golden tiles, hence ‘Tower of Gold’. Inside is a ANTIGUA FÁBRICA DE TABACOS
small maritime museum (Map pp714-15; %954 22 24 19; Seville’s massive former tobacco factory (Map
admission adult/students & seniors, €2/1; h10am-2pm Tue-Fri, pp714-15; Calle San Fernando; admission free; h8am-9.30pm
11am-2pm Sat & Sun, closed Mon, holidays & all Aug). Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) – workplace of Bizet’s passion-
ate operatic heroine, Carmen – was built in
ROYAL SHIPYARDS the 18th century. It’s wheelchair accessible.
King Alfonso X ‘the Wise’ commissioned
the Royal Shipyards (Map pp714-15; %954 21 66 72; PARQUE DE MARÍA LUISA & PLAZA DE
Calle Temprado 1; admission free; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, ESPAÑA
to 2pm Sun & holidays) in 1252. In all, 17 naves or A large area south of the tobacco factory was
bays were built on what were then the sandy transformed for Seville’s 1929 international
banks of the Guadalquivir. After some years fair, the Exposición Iberoamericana, when
lonelyplanet.com S E V I L L E • • W a l k i n g T o u r 721

architects adorned it with fantastical build- adult/under 16yr & senior late Jun–mid-Sep all day €23.50/17-
ings, many of them harking back to Seville’s 19, evening €17-19/12-14, late Sep-late Oct all day €23.50/17,
past glory or imitating the native styles of evening €17/12; h11am-7pm Tue-Fri, to 10pm Sat & Sun Apr-
Spain’s former colonies. In its midst is the late Jun, to 11pm Mon-Fri & Sun, to midnight Sat late Jun-early
large Parque de María Luisa (Map pp712-13; h8am- Sep, to 9pm Fri & Sat early Sep-Oct, closed Nov-Mar) provides
10pm, to midnight Jul & Aug), a living expression of a great day out for kids and all lovers of white-
Seville’s Moorish and Christian past. knuckle rides. Confirm times before going.
Plaza de España, one of the city’s favourite Both buses C1 and C2 (p729) run to Isla
relaxation spots, faces the park across Avenida Mágica.
de Isabel la Católica. Around it is the most
grandiose of the 1929 buildings, a semicircu- WALKING TOUR
lar brick-and-tile confection featuring Seville This route will acquaint you with the main
tilework at its gaudiest. central neighbourhoods of Seville as a pre-
On Plaza de América, at the southern end liminary to more in-depth investigations. In
of the park, is Seville’s Museo Arqueológico (Map addition, Turismo Sevilla (%954 21 00 05; www
pp712-13; %954 78 64 74; adult/EU citizen, under 16yr & .turismosevilla.org; Plaza del Triunfo 1; h10.30am-7pm
senior €1.50/free; h2.30-8.30pm Tue, 9am-8.30pm Wed- Mon-Fri) publishes an excellent pocket book-
Sat, to 2.30pm Sun & holidays), with plenty to inter- let with self-guided walks around the city
est. Facing it is the Museo de Artes y Costumbres
Populares (Map pp712-13; %954 23 25 76; adult/EU citizen
€1.50/free; h3-8pm Tue, 9am-8pm Wed-Sat, to 2.30pm Sun WALK FACTS
& holidays). Both are wheelchair accessible. Start Plaza del Triunfo
Finish Cathedral
Isla Mágica Distance 4km

ANDALUCÍA
This Disney-goes-Spanish-colonial amusement Duration Two hours plus stops
park (Map pp712-13; %902 16 17 16; www.islamagica.es;

0 200 m
WALKING TOUR y
C

Elo C 0 0.1 miles

C de la Cu

C Plaza de la
C Sier

de
illo Magdalena
Bail ur Route to Alternative Ending
C M

én M
C Veláz

p es

s El
leja
C

ana
arq

9 Centro
C C
na
ués d

q uez

C Alcaicería
C de

C C
J o vellanos
Gr

Ju C Sagasta 8
e Pa

lio
av
Arjona

in

Ce Cuesta Rosario
a
radas

sa C Alba
r r e da
C Álvarez Q uinter

C Bilbao
C

7
Plaza
s

Sa
ico

Nueva
nta
l
tó

s P
Ca

C
C Madrid
C Federico

Pa CA
s

a
ye

st ire
C H Coló

Rubio
tro

na 12
Re

oli
o
or

na
C

ern n
Av de la Constitu

M
y

e
te d END
La

ando

go
nd

Ar
er

Abadés
o

C
o
ondo

C
Ga

C de Adr
Fa
Remon

C iola

iano Alemanes
b
s

sa
Vinue
eo

El
C D

Patio
a de
at

Arenal
C Garcí de los
M
ción

Puente de Triana 10 Naranjos 6 C

(Puente de Isabel II) D íaz
1 Plaza Virgen
n ia de los Reyes Barrio de
A n to Santa Cruz Plaza
C Plaza del
Triunfo Refinadores
START 5
Pa

3
se

4
Rí

Patio
gu a
o
o

to END de las Jardines de

San el A
G

de

C omás Banderas nd
ua

Murillo
Cr

T el j ó
da

gu alle
ist

Mi r a C
lq

2
ób
ui

C Ma ñ a
vi

al
r

C Dirand

de
Co

M
l ón

eán a

Alcázar
Gardens
11 Puerta de
Jerez
C S
an
Fern
an do
 722 S E V I L L E • • C o u r s e s lonelyplanet.com

defined by special interests, including the CLIC (Map pp714-15; %954 50 21 31; www.clic.es; Calle
Jewish Quarter, Triana and the River, and Albareda 19)
the Parque de Maria Luisa. Giralda Center (Map pp714-15; %954 22 13 46/954
Start on Plaza del Triunfo, flanked by 21 31 65; www.giraldacenter.com; Calle Mateos Gago 17)
Seville’s two great monuments, the cathedral Lenguaviva (Map pp712-13; %954 90 51 31; www
(1; p717) and the Alcázar (2; p718). From here, .lenguaviva.net; Calle Viriato 24)
wander through the narrow lanes and pretty LINC (Map pp714-15; %954 50 04 59; www.linc.es;
plazas of the Barrio de Santa Cruz – Plaza Doña Calle General Polavieja 13)
Elvira (3; p719), Plaza de los Venerables (4) and Plaza
de Santa Cruz (5; p719), Calle Santa Teresa and SEVILLE FOR CHILDREN
Calle Mateos Gago. You’ll very likely want to Open spaces such as the banks of the
return to some of the bars, restaurants and Guadalquivir, Parque María Luisa (p720) and
shops here later. Calle Mateos Gago brings you the Alcázar gardens (p719) are great places for
out front of La Giralda (6; p717). Now head up young children to let off some steam. They’ll
pedestrian Calle Álvarez Quintero to El Centro, enjoy feeding the doves at Plaza de América
the age-old true centre of Seville, for Plaza de San in Parque María Luisa. Isla Mágica (p721) is a
Francisco (7; p719) and Plaza Salvador (8; p719). huge day of fun: those aged over 10 will get the
Stroll north along Calle Sierpes, a key down- most out of the rides. Another sure hit is a city
town shopping street. Turn west along Calle tour (below) in an open-top double-decker or
Rioja to Iglesia de la Magdalena (9; opposite), then horse-drawn carriage.
head southwest to Río Guadalquivir. Follow the
river southeast along the walking path, passing TOURS
Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza (10; p720), as Horse-drawn carriages wait near the cathe-
far as the Torre del Oro (11; p720), from where it’s dral, Plaza de España and Puerta de Jerez,
a short walk east back to the cathedral. Time to
ANDALUCÍA

charging €40 for up to four people for a one-

give those weary sightseeing muscles a sooth- hour trot around the Barrio de Santa Cruz
ing soak? Head a couple of blocks north to the and Parque de María Luisa areas.
Arab baths Aire de Sevilla (12; %955 01 00 25; www Cruceros Turísticos Torre del Oro (Map pp714-15;
.airedesevilla.com; Calle Aire 15; bath/bath & massage €18/31; %954 56 16 92; adult/under 14yr €16/free) One-hour
hevery 90min, 10am-1.30am), with an exotic teteria sightseeing river cruises from the Torre del Oro, every
(Arab-style teahouse) on the first floor. half-hour from 11am; last departure can range from 6pm
in winter to 9pm in summer.
COURSES Discover Sevilla (%954 22 66 42; Calle Joaquín Gui-
Flamenco & Dance chot 6; h8pm-late, Wed & Fri). For €59, your guide will
The city has many dance and flamenco schools. take you on a flamenco walking tour through the labyrinth
Tourist offices and El Giraldillo (p716) have of Barrio Santa Cruz, often claimed as the birthplace of
information in addition to the following: flamenco.
Espacio Meteora (Map pp712-13; %954 90 41 83; Sevilla Tour (%902 10 10 81; www.citysightseeing
Calle Duque Cornejo 16A) Innovative arts centre. -spain.com) Open-topped double-decker buses and
Fundación Cristina Heeren de Arte Flamenco (Map converted trams make one-hour city tours, with earphone
pp714-15; %954 21 70 58; www.flamencoheeren.com; commentary in a choice of languages. The €15 ticket
Avenida de Jerez 2) Long-term courses in all flamenco arts, (children €6) is valid for 24 hours, and you can hop on or
also one-month intensive summer courses. off near the Torre del Oro (Map pp714–15), Avenida de
Sevilla Dance Centre (Map pp712-13; %954 38 39 Portugal behind Plaza de España (Map pp712–13) or the
02; Calle Miguel Cid 67; h5.30-9pm) The Centre’s focus Isla de La Cartuja (Map pp712–13). Buses typically leave
is on hip hop and contemporary/jazz dance teaching and every 30 minutes between 7am and 8pm.
performance. Sevilla Walking Tours (%902 15 82 26; www.sevilla
walkingtours.com) English-language tours of the main
Language monumental area, at 10.30am Monday to Saturday lasting
Seville is one of the most popular cities in about 2 hours for €12. The same group also offers tours of
Spain to study Spanish. The best schools offer the cathedral and Alcázar.
both short- and long-term courses at a variety
of levels: FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Carpe Diem (Map pp714-15; %954 21 85 15; www Seville’s Semana Santa processions (see the
.carpediemsevilla.com; Calle de la Cuna 13) boxed text, opposite) and its Feria de Abril, a
lonelyplanet.com S E V I L L E • • Fe s t i v a l s & E v e n t s 723

week or two later, are worth travelling a long centre. The ceremonial lighting of the feria
way for, as is the Bienal de Flamenco. grounds on the Monday night is the starting
gun for six nights of partying. Much of the site
Feria de Abril is occupied by private casetas (enclosures),
In the second half of the month, the Feria de but there are also public ones. There’s also a
Abril (April Fair) is the joyful celebration after huge fairground.
the solemnity of Semana Santa. The biggest During the afternoon, from aroud 1pm,
and most colourful of all Andalucía’s ferias, it those with horses and carriages parade about
takes place on a special site, El Real de la Feria, the feria grounds in their finery (horses are
in the Los Remedios area southwest of the city dressed up, too). It is also during the feria

SEMANA SANTA IN SEVILLE

Nowhere in Spain is Holy Week marked with quite such intense spectacle, solemnity and joy
as in Seville.
Every day from Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday, large, richly bedecked images and life-size tab-
leaux from the Easter story are carried from Seville’s churches through the streets to the cathedral,
accompanied by processions that may take more than an hour to pass. These rites have been
going on in their present form since the 17th century, when many of the images were created.
The processions are organised by over 50 different hermandades or cofradías (brotherhoods,
some of which include women), each normally with two pasos (sculptural representations of
events from Christ’s Passion).
The first paso focuses on Christ; the second is an image of the Virgin. They are carried by teams
of about 40 bearers called costaleros, who work in relays as each supports a weight of about

ANDALUCÍA
50kg. The pasos move with a hypnotic swaying motion to the rhythm of their accompanying
bands and the commands of their bell-striking capataz (leader).
Each pair of pasos has up to 2500 costumed followers, called nazarenos. Many of these wear
tall capes, notoriously copied later by the Ku Klux Klan, which cover their heads (except for eye
slits), implying that the identity of the penitent is known only to God. The most contrite go
barefoot and carry crosses.
From Palm Sunday to Good Friday, about eight brotherhoods leave their churches in the
afternoon or early evening, arriving between 5pm and 11pm at Calle Campana, at the northern
end of Calle Sierpes. This is the start of the carrera oficial (official route), which all then follow
along Calle Sierpes, Plaza San Francisco and Avenida de la Constitución to the cathedral. They
enter the cathedral at its western end and leave at the east, emerging on Plaza Virgen de los
Reyes. They get back to their churches some time between 10pm and 3am.
The climax of the week is the madrugada (early hours) of Good Friday, when some of the most
respected brotherhoods file through the city. The first to reach the carrera oficial, at about 1.30am,
is the oldest brotherhood, El Silencio, which goes in complete silence. At about 2am comes Jesús
del Gran Poder, whose 17th-century Christ is a masterpiece of Sevillan sculpture. Around 3am
comes La Macarena, whose much adored Virgin is Seville’s supreme representation of the grieving-
yet-hoping mother of Christ. Then come El Calvario, from the Iglesia de la Magdalena, then
Esperanza de Triana and finally, at about 6am, Los Gitanos, the gitano (Roma) brotherhood.
On the Saturday evening, just four brotherhoods make their way to the cathedral, and finally,
on Easter Sunday morning, only one, the Hermandad de la Resurrección.
Procession schedules are widely available during Semana Santa, and the website www
.semana-santa.org (in Spanish) is devoted to Holy Week in Seville. Arrive near the cathedral early
evening for a better view.
If you’re not in Seville for Semana Santa, you can see what it’s about from some of the churches
housing the famous images. The Basílica de La Macarena (Map pp712-13; %954 90 18 00; Calle
Bécquer 1; museum €3; h9am-2pm & 5-9pm) and the Basílica de Jesús del Gran Poder (Map pp712-13;
%954 91 56 72; Plaza de San Lorenzo 13; h8am-1.30pm & 6-9pm Sat-Thu, 7.30am-10pm Fri) are both north
of the centre. The Iglesia de la Magdalena (Map pp714-15; Calle San Pablo 12; husually 8am-11.30am
& 6.30-9pm) is a few streets south of the Museo de Bellas Artes.
 724 S E V I L L E • • S l e e p i n g Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

that Seville’s major bullfighting season €66/86; pai) A small shiny hotel in a great
takes place. location, the Puerta de Sevilla is all flower-
pattern textiles and wrought-iron beds.
Bienal de Flamenco Hotel Goya (Map pp714-15; %954 21 11 70 www
Spain’s biggest flamenco festival, the Bienal de .hotelgoyasevilla.com; Calle Mateos Gago 31; s/d €55/90;
Flamenco (www.bienal-flamenco.org), is staged for a ai) The gleaming Goya is more popular
month in September of even-numbered years, than ever. Pets are welcome. Book ahead.
and brings together the best of classical and Hotel Alcántara (Map pp714-15; %954 50 05 95; www
experimental music and dance. .hotelalcantara.net; Calle Ximénez de Enciso 28; s/d €68/89;
a) This small, friendly hotel on a pedestrian
SLEEPING street punches above its weight with sparkling
There’s a good range of places to stay in all modern bathrooms, windows on to the ho-
three of the most attractive areas – Barrio de tel’s patio and pretty floral curtains. It’s also
Santa Cruz (close to the Alcázar and within wheelchair accessible.
walking distance of Prado de San Sebastián Un Patio en Santa Cruz (Map pp714-15; %954 53 94
bus station), El Arenal (convenient for Plaza 13; www.patiosantacruz.com; Calle Doncellas 15; s/d €78/128;
de Armas bus station) and El Centro. ai) An understated hotel defying the elab-
Room rates in this section are for each es- orate traditions of Andalucian decor.
tablishment’s high season – typically from Hotel Amadeus (Map pp714-15; %954 50 14 43;
March to June and again from September to www.hotelamadeussevilla.com; Calle Farnesio 6; s/d €80/90;
October. Just about every room in Seville costs pai) This musician family converted
even more during Semana Santa and the Feria their 18th-century mansion into a stylish hotel
de Abril, and sometimes between the two as with 14 elegant rooms. Five new rooms have
well, so try to book ahead for this time. been added, one or two soundproofed for
Renting a tourist apartment here can be
ANDALUCÍA

piano or violin practice.

good value: typically costing under €100 a Hostería del Laurel (Map pp714-15; %954 22 02 95;
night for four people, or between €30 and www.hosteriadellaurel.com; Plaza de los Venerables 5; s/d incl
€70 for two. Try Apartamentos Embrujo de Sevilla breakfast €73/104; a) Above a characterful old bar
(%627 569919; www.embrujodesevilla.com), which of the same name on a small Santa Cruz plaza,
specialises in historic town mansion apart- the Laurel has spacious if uninspired rooms
ments, or Sevilla5.com (%637 011091, 954 22 62 87; and good-sized bathrooms on one of the city’s
www.sevilla5.com). prettiest plazas.
Las Casas de la Judería (Map pp714-15; %954 41 51
Barrio de Santa Cruz 50; www.casasypalacios.com; Callejón Dos Hermanas 7; s/d
BUDGET from €140/175; pa) This charming five-star
Huéspedes Dulces Sueños (Map pp714-15; %954 hotel is in fact a series of luxuriously restored
41 93 93; Calle Santa María La Blanca 21; s/d with bath- houses and mansions based around several
room €40/50, without bathroom €20/45; a) ‘Sweet patios and fountains.
Dreams’ is a friendly little hostal (budget
hotel) with spotless rooms. Only the doubles El Arenal
have air-conditioning. Hotel Madrid (Map pp714-15; %954 21 43 06; www
Pensión San Pancracio (Map pp714-15; %/fax 954 41 .hotelmadridsevilla.com; Calle San Pedro Mártir 22; s/d €40/55;
31 04; Plaza de las Cruces 9; d with bathroom €50, s/d without pa) This friendly hotel remains pretty good
bathroom €25/35) The furnishings are almost as value. All the good-sized rooms have firm
old as the rambling family house, but it’s all beds, fresh decor and spacious bathrooms.
cheerful and clean. Hostal Museo (Map pp714-15; %954 91 55 26; www
Pensión Córdoba (Map pp714-15; %954 22 74 98; .hostalmuseo.com; Calle Abad Gordillo 17; s/d €48/60; ai)
Calle Farnesio 12; s/d with bathroom €55/75, s/d without bath- The immaculate rooms are endowed with solid
room €40/60; a) Run for the past 30 years by a wooden furniture and comfortable beds.
friendly older couple. It’s located on a quiet pe- Hostal Residencia Naranjo (Map pp714-15; %954 22
destrian street. Rooms are basic but spotless. 58 40; Calle San Roque 11; s/d €49/65; ai) Homely
pine furniture and restful colours add a touch
MIDRANGE & TOP END of warmth.
Hotel Puerta de Sevilla (Map pp714-15; %954 98 72 70; Hotel Maestranza (Map pp714-15; %954 56 10 70;
www.hotelpuertadesevilla.com; Calle Puerta de la Carne 2; s/d www.hotel-maestranza.es; Calle Gamazo 12; s/d €53/87;
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels S E V I L L E • • E a t i n g 725

ai) A small, friendly hotel on a quiet- Rooms are hushed, spacious and decorated in
ish street, the Maestranza has spotless, relaxing neutrals.
plain rooms.
Hotel Simón (Map pp714-15; %954 22 66 60; www EATING
.hotelsimonsevilla.com; Calle García de Vinuesa 19; s €60-70, d Seville is one of Spain’s tapas capitals, so
€95-110; a) A charming small hotel in a grand plunge straight in and follow the winding
old 18th-century house, with spotless and tapas trail. Most tapas bars open at lunchtime
comfortable rooms. Even the light filtering as well as in the evening.
into the antique patio seems dipped in tea. For a sit-down meal, modern restaurants
Hotel Vincci La Rábida (Map pp714-15; %954 50 12 preparing Spanish food with enlivening in-
80; www.vinccihoteles.com; Calle Castelar 24; s/d €159/195; ternational touches abound. Don’t bother
pai) A beautiful four-storey columned looking for dinner until at least 9pm, nearer
atrium-lounge greets you in this converted 10pm in summer.
18th-century palace.
Barrio de Santa Cruz & Around
El Centro Bodega Santa Cruz (Map pp714-15; %954 21 32 46;
Oasis Backpackers’ Hostel (Map pp714-15; %954 29 Calle Mateos Gago; tapas €1.50-2) Established neigh-
37 77; www.oasissevilla.com; Plaza de la Encarnación 29, bourhood tapas haunt with smoke-tempered
dm/d incl breakfast €20/46; ai) Seville’s offbeat, paintwork, obligatory TV and religious pin-
buzzing backpacker central offers 24-hour ups. The long bar props up local workers
free internet access. The new location is in and tourists.
Plaza Encarnación, a narrow street behind the Café Bar Las Teresas (Map pp714-15; %954 21 30 69;
Church of the Anunciación. Each dorm bed Calle Santa Teresa 2; tapas €2.20-4) Head barman Pepe
has a personal safe, and there is a small rooftop has served thousands of punters here since
pool. Oasis also has several apartments at Calle 1962, including Edward Kennedy in 1964. He

ANDALUCÍA
Don Alonso el Sabio 1A (Map pp714–15). will be happy to share the experience with you
Casa Sol y Luna (Map pp714-15; %954 21 06 82; www in this convivial corner of old Seville.
.casasolyluna1.com; Calle Pérez Galdós 1A; d with bathroom Cervecería Giralda (Map pp714-15; %954 22 82 50;
€45, s/d/tr without bathroom €22/38/60) This is a first- Calle Mateos Gago 1; tapas €3.50-5) Exotic tapas vari-
rate hostal in a beautifully decorated house ations are merged with traditional dishes in
dating from 1911, with embroidered white this one-time Muslim bathhouse.
linen that makes you feel as if you’re staying Restaurant La Cueva (Map pp714-15; %954 21 31 43;
at your grandma’s. Pay special attention to the Calle Rodrigo Caro 18 & Plaza de Doña Elvira, 1; mains €11-24,
24-hour booking confirmation policy. menú €16) This popular bull’s head-festooned
Hotel San Francisco (Map pp714-15; %/fax 954 50 eatery cooks up a storming fish zarzuela
15 41; www.sanfranciscoh.com; Calle Álvarez Quintero 38; s/d (casserole; €30 for two people) and a hearty
€55/68; hclosed Aug; aiThis good-value hotel caldereta (lamb stew; €14.90).
on a pedestrianised street occupies an 18th- Restaurante Modesto (Map pp714-15; %954 41 68
century home and is wheelchair accessible. 11; Calle Cano y Cueto 5 (Puerta de la Carne); mains €11-34)
Hospas Casas del Rey de Baeza (Map pp714-15; This bustling, unpretentious place is famed
%954 56 14 96; www.hospes.es; Plaza Jesús de la Redención for its lobster and monkfish stew.
2; s/d €168/210; pais) This expertly run Corral del Agua (Map pp714-15; %954 22 48 41;
and marvellously designed hotel off Calle Callejón del Agua 6; mains €16.50-22; hlunch & dinner
Santiago occupies former communal hous- Mon-Sat) Inventive Al-Andalus and tradi-
ing patios dating from the 18th century. The tional dishes are served in a semitropical
large rooms boast attractive modern art, CD courtyard under a twining canopy of vines
player, DVD and wi-fi. Public areas include and jacaranda.
a lounge and a gorgeous pool. Restaurante La Albahaca (Map pp714-15; %954 22
07 14; Plaza de Santa Cruz 12; mains €20-30) Gastronomic
North of the Centre invention is the mainstay of this elegant,
Hotel San Gil (Map pp712-13; %954 90 68 11; www gilded restaurant with its azure blue interior.
.hotelsangil.com; Calle Parras 28; s/d €141/176; pais) Try the leg of duck confit in a sauce of bitter
Around the corner from the Basílica de la orange and rosemary honey.
Macarena, this renovated early-20th-century Restaurante Egaña Oriza (Map pp714-15; %954 22
building focuses on a pretty courtyard. 72 11; Calle San Fernando 41; mains €22-32; hclosed Sat
 726 S E V I L L E • • D r i n k i n g lonelyplanet.com

lunch & Sun) Regarded as one of the city’s best combination of provisions store/deli/tapas
restaurants, Egaña Oriza cooks up superb bar and prepared food takeaway in a cleverly
Andalucian–Basque cuisine, including lasa- restored 17th-century house.
gne with seafood, lobster and truffles. Habanita (Map pp714-15; %606 716456; Calle Golfo
3; raciones €8-15; hclosed Sun evening; v) This top
El Arenal restaurant serves a winning variety of Cuban,
Mesón Cinco Jotas (Map pp714-15; %954 21 05 21; Calle Andalucian and vegetarian food.
Castelar 1; tapas/media raciones €3.80/9.45) Try some of
the best jamón in town here and move on to Triana
the solomillo ibérico (Iberian pork sirloin) in There are several big riverside restaurants
sweet Pedro Ximénez wine for the peak of along Calle del Betis, all serving much the
porcine flavour. same fried seafood and other traditional
Porta Rossa (Map pp714-15; %954 21 61 39; Calle dishes. Beware of overpriced venues with
Pastor y Landero 20; mains €8.50-19) Excellent ingre- indifferent food.
dients make a fine basis for authentic Italian Ristorante Cosa Nostra (Map pp714-15; %954 27
classics starring a tender steak salad with aru- 07 52; Calle del Betis 52; pizzas €8.50-12; hclosed Mon)
gula in a tart balsamic and lemon dressing. Popular and reasonably priced, Cosa Nostra
The owners and staff are friendly and atten- has an intimate feel that neighbouring pizza-
tive. It’s best to reserve early. and-pasta joints lack.
Enrique Becerra (Map pp714-15; %954 21 30 49; Calle Casa Cuesta (Map pp712-13; %954 33 33 37; Calle
Gamazo 2; mains €16.50-24; hclosed Sat & Sun) Adding de Castilla 3-5; mains €9-10) Something about the
a smart touch to El Arenal, Enrique Becerra carefully buffed wooden bar and gleaming
cooks up hearty Andalucian dishes. The lamb beer pumps suggests the owners are proud of
drenched in honey sauce and stuffed with Casa Cuesta. They should be; it’s a real find
spinach and pine nuts is delectable. for food and wine lovers alike.
ANDALUCÍA

El Centro DRINKING
Plaza de la Alfalfa is the hub of the tapas Bars usually open 6pm to 2am weekdays,
scene, with a flush of first-rate bars serving 8pm till 3am at the weekend. Drinking and
tapas from around €1.80 to €3. On Calle Alfalfa partying really get going around midnight on
just off the plaza, hop from sea-themed La Friday and Saturday (daily when it’s hot). In
Trastienda to the intimate Bar Alfalfa and on summer, dozens of open-air late-night bars
to La Bodega where you can mix head-spinning (terrazas de verano) spring up along both
quantities of ham and sherry. banks of the river.
El Patio San Eloy (Map pp714-15; Calle San Eloy 9;
tapas €1.50-3) Patches of old tiling remain at the Barrio de Santa Cruz
always-busy Patio San Eloy, where you can sit P Flaherty Irish Pub (Map pp714-15; %954 21 04 17;
on the tiled steps at the back and feast on a Calle Alemanes 7) The location right next to the
fine array of burguillos (small filled rolls). cathedral makes this one of the busiest – and
Bar Levíes (Map pp714-15; %954 21 53 08; Calle San biggest – bars around. If there’s a football
José 15; tapas €2-5) The ultimate student tapas game on, the atmosphere is fun.
bar, crowded Levíes serves a tapa of solomillo Antigüedades (Map pp714-15; Calle Argote de Molina
al whisky as big as a ración – and beer in 40) Blending mellow beats with offbeat decor,
big glasses. the tiled window seats with a view of the busy
Robles Placentines (Map pp714-15; %954 21 31 street are the best place to nurse your drink.
62; Calle Placentines 2; tapas €2.90) Modelled on a
Jerez wine cellar, this popular haunt serves El Arenal
up tempting dishes such as white asparagus oCasa Morales (Map pp714-15; %954 22 12 42;
from the Sierra de Córdoba. Garcia de Vinuesa 11) Founded in 1850, not much
has changed in this defiantly old-world bar,
Alameda de Hércules with charming anachronisms wherever you
Antigua Abacería de San Lorenzo (Map pp712-13; look. Towering clay tinajas (wine storage jars)
%954 38 00 67; www.antiguaabaceriadesanlorenzo.com; carry the chalked-up tapas choices of the day.
Calle Teodosio 53; tapas €1-5; h9.30am-midnight every Locals sweat it out on summer nights like
day, closed 5pm-8pm Sat & Sun Jun-Sep) A traditional true sevillanos.
lonelyplanet.com S E V I L L E • • E n t e r t a i n m e n t 727

El Capote (Map pp714-15; Calle de Arjona) A beach- clustered at Calle del Betis 54 (Map pp714–15)
side ambience complete with palm trees and open from 9pm.
makes for relaxed al fresco drinking right next
to Puente de Triana. ENTERTAINMENT
Café Isbiliyya (Map pp714-15; %954 21 04 60; Seville comes to life at night with live music,
Paseo de Cristóbal Colón 2) Cupid welcomes you to experimental theatre and steamy flamenco.
this gay music bar, which puts on extrava- See www.discoversevilla.com or www.explore
gant drag-queen shows on Thursday and seville.com for the latest action.
Sunday nights.
Clubs
El Centro Clubs in Seville come and go fast but a few
Plaza del Salvador is brimful of drinkers from stand the test of time. The partying starts be-
mid-evening to 1am. Grab a drink from La tween 2am and 3am at the weekend. Dress
Antigua Bodeguita (Map pp714-15; %954 56 18 33) or smarter (so no sportswear) at the weekend as
La Sapotales next door and sit on the steps of clubs become pickier about their punters.
the Parroquia del Salvador. Boss (Map pp714-15; Calle del Betis 67; admission free
Calle Pérez Galdós, off Plaza de la Alfalfa, with flyer; h8pm-7am Tue-Sun) Make it past the
has a handful of pulsating bars: Bare Nostrum two gruff bouncers and you’ll find Boss a top
(Map pp714-15; Calle Pérez Galdós 26), Cabo Loco (Map dance spot. The music is a total mix.
pp714-15; Calle Pérez Galdós 26), Nao (Map pp714-15; Calle Weekend (Map pp712-13; %954 37 88 73; Calle del
Pérez Galdós 28) and La Rebótica (Map pp714-15; Calle Torneo 43; admission €7; h11pm-8am Thu-Sat) This is
Pérez Galdós 11). one of Seville’s top live-music and DJ spots.
El Garlochi (Map pp714-15; Calle Boteros 4) Named Aduana (Map pp712-13; %954 23 85 82; www.aduana
after the gitano word for ‘heart’, this deeply .net; Avenida de la Raza s/n; admission varies; hmidnight-late
camp bar hits you with clouds of incense, Thu-Sat) Aduana is where Seville’s best-dressed

ANDALUCÍA
Jesus and Virgin images displayed on scarlet party-goers show off their moves. This huge
walls, and potent cocktails with names like dance venue, 1km south of Parque de María
Sangre de Cristo (Blood of Christ). Luisa, hosts all-night revels from Thursday
to Sunday.
Alameda de Hércules
In terms of hipness and trendy places to go Live Music
out, the slightly shabby Alameda is where it’s Fun Club (Map pp712-13; %958 25 02 49; Alameda de
at, and it’s also the heartbeat of gay Seville. Hércules 86; admission live-band nights €3-6, other nights
Bulebar Café (Map pp712-13; Alameda de Hércules free; h11.30pm-late Thu-Sun, from 9.30pm live-band
83; h4pm-late) This place fills up with young nights) With funk, Latino, hip hop and jazz
sweaty bodies at night, but is pleasantly chilled bands taking the stage it’s not surprising that
in the early evening, with friendly staff. this little dance warehouse is a music-lovers’
Café Central (Map pp712-13; %954 37 09 99; Alameda favourite.
de Hércules 64) One of the oldest and most popu- La Imperdible (Map pp712-13; %954 38 82 19;
lar along the street, Central has yellow bar Curtidurías 12; admission €8-10) This epicentre of ex-
lights, wooden flea-market chairs and a mas- perimental arts stages lots of contemporary
sive crowd that gathers at weekends. dance, usually around 9pm.
Habanilla (Map pp712-13; %954 90 27 18; Alameda El Almacén (Map pp712-13; %954 90 04 34; admission
de Hércules 63; h8am-2am) Habanilla’s subversive free) The bar of La Imperdible hosts varied
charm is encapsulated in the cheeky beer- music events from around 11pm Thursday
bottle chandelier that dominates the room. to Saturday.

Triana Flamenco
If you want a change from the slicker watering La Carbonería (Map pp714-15; %954 21 44 60; Calle Levíes
holes of the city proper, try the raffish, ripe- 18; admission free; habout 8pm-4am) A converted
for-development Triana riverfront. The wall coal yard in the Barrio de Santa Cruz with two
overlooking the river along Calle del Betis large bars, thronged nearly every night, which
forms a makeshift bar. Carry your drink out offer live flamenco from about 8pm to 4am.
from one of the following places: Alambique, Casa de la Memoria de Al-Andalus (Map pp714-15;
Big Ben, Sirocca and Muí d’Aquí. They’re all %954 56 06 70; Calle Ximénez de Enciso 28; adult/child €14/8;
 728 S E V I L L E • • S h o p p i n g lonelyplanet.com

h9pm & 10.30pm) Authentic nightly shows with and Calle Doctor Letamendi (Map pp712–13)
a focus on medieval and Sephardic Al-Andalus have more alternative shops.
styles, in a room of shifting shadows. Space is The large Thursday mercadillo (flea market; Map
limited, so reserve tickets in advance. pp712-13) in Calle de la Feria near the Alameda
Hotels and tourist offices tend to steer you de Hércules is worth a visit.
towards tablaos (expensive, tourist-oriented In the traditional tile-making area of Triana, a
flamenco venues), which can lack atmosphere, dozen shops and workshops still offer charm-
though Los Gallos (Map pp714-15; %954 21 69 81; ing, artful ceramics around the junction of
www.tablaolosgallos.com; Plaza de Santa Cruz 11; admission Calle Alfarería and Calle Antillano Campos.
incl 1 drink €30; h2hr shows 8-10pm & 10.30pm-12.30am)
is a cut above the average. Seville also stages GETTING THERE & AWAY
the biggest of all Spain’s flamenco festivals, the Air
month-long Bienal de Flamenco (p724). Seville’s Aeropuerto San Pablo (%902 40 47 04;
h24-hr) has a fair range of international and
Bullfights domestic flights. Iberia (%902 40 05 00; www.iberia
Fights at Seville’s ancient, elegant, 14,000- .com) flies direct to Barcelona, Madrid and
seat Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza (Map half a dozen other Spanish cities as well as
pp714-15; Paseo de Cristóbal Colón 12; www.realmaestranza to London and Paris. Spanair (%954 44 91 38;
.com) are among the biggest in Spain. Seville’s www.spanair.com) also flies to Madrid and, along
crowds are some of the most knowledgeable with Air Europa (%902 40 15 01; www.air-europa.com)
in the bullfighting world. The season runs and Vueling (%902 33 39 33; www.vueling.com), to
from Easter Sunday to early October, with Barcelona. Vueling also covers Paris, Rome,
fights every Sunday, usually at 7pm, and every Amsterdam and Brussels to Seville.
day during the Feria de Abril and the week From the British Isles there are flights
with British Airways (%902 11 13 33; www.ba.com)
ANDALUCÍA

before it.
From the start of the season until late June/ from London Gatwick, Ryanair (%807 22 00 32;
early July, nearly all the fights are by fully www.ryanair.com) from Liverpool and London
fledged matadors. Seats cost €32.50 to €110 Stansted, and Aer Lingus (%902 50 27 37; www
but only cheap sol seats (those in the sun at the .aerlingus.com) from Dublin. Air-Berlin (%954
start of proceedings) may be available to those 26 07 03; www.airberlin.com) flies to several major
who don’t hold season tickets. Most of the rest German, Swiss and Austrian cities. Transavia
of the season, novilleras (novice bullfights) are (%902 11 44 78; www.transavia.com) comes from
held, with tickets costing €4 to €26. Tickets are Amsterdam and SN Brussels Airlines (%902 90
sold in advance at Empresa Pagés (Map pp714-15; 14 92; www.flysn.com) from Brussels. Carrier and
%954 50 13 82; Calle de Adriano 37) and from 4.30pm schedule information changes frequently, so
on fight days at the bullring itself. it’s best to check with specific airlines or major
Whether you appreciate this as sport for the online bookers.
brave or view it is a form of animal cruelty is
a matter for debate. Either way, it is certainly Bus
an important aspect of Spanish tradition. For From the Estación de Autobuses Prado de San
more information on bullfighting, see p61. Sebastián (Map pp714-15; %954 41 71 11; Plaza San
Sebastián), there are 12 or more buses daily
SHOPPING to/from Cádiz (€10.95, 1¾ hours), Córdoba
The craft shops in the Barrio de Santa Cruz (€9.43, 2 hours), Granada (€18.57, 3½ hours),
are inevitably tourist-oriented, but many sell Jerez de la Frontera (€7.20, 1¼ hours), Ronda
attractive ceramics and tiles. (€10.50, 2½ hours, five or more daily) and
El Centro has a pretty cluster of pedestri- Málaga (€14.75, 2¾ hours). This is also the
anised shopping streets. Calles Sierpes, Cuna, station for other towns in Cádiz province,
Velázquez and Tetuán have a host of small the east of Sevilla province, and destinations
shops selling everything from polka-dot fla- along the Mediterranean coast from the Costa
menco dresses to diamond rings. El Corte Inglés del Sol to Barcelona.
department store (Map pp714–15) occupies From the Estación de Autobuses Plaza de Armas
four separate buildings a little west, on Plaza (Map pp712-13; %954 90 80 40; Avenida del Cristo de la
de la Magdalena and Plaza del Duque de la Expiración), destinations include Madrid (€18.65,
Victoria. Further north, Calle Amor de Dios six hours, 14 daily), El Rocío (€5.10, 1½ hours,
lonelyplanet.com S E V I L L E • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d 729

three to five daily), Aracena (€5.67, 1¼ hours, de Carlos V (close to Prado de San Sebastián
two daily) and other places in Huelva province, bus station and the Barrio de Santa Cruz),
Mérida (€11, three hours, 12 daily), Cáceres Avenida de María Luisa, Triana, Isla Mágica
(€15, four hours, six daily) and northwestern and Calle de Resolana. The C2, heading west
Spain. This is also the station for buses to from in front of Estación de Santa Justa, fol-
Portugal. ALSA (www.alsa.es) runs two daily buses lows the same route in reverse. Bus 32, also
to Lisbon (€41, seven hours daily), one via from outside Santa Justa, runs to/from Plaza
Badajoz and Évora, the other (overnight) via de la Encarnación in El Centro.
Faro. Casal (www.autocarescasal.com) has a daily serv- The clockwise number C3 will take you
ice between Seville and the border at Rosal de la from Puerta Carmona (near Prado de San
Frontera (west of Aracena), where you can con- Sebastián bus station and the Barrio de Santa
nect with Portuguese buses to/from Lisbon for Cruz) to Puerta La Carne and Puerto Jerez.
a total journey time of 10 hours, costing €23. The C4 does the same circuit anticlockwise
Damas (www.damas-sa.es) runs twice daily (except except that from Estación de Autobuses
Saturday, Sunday and holidays from October Plaza de Armas it heads south along Calle de
to May) to/from Lagos (€18, 5½ hours) via Faro Arjona and Paseo de Cristóbal Colón, instead
and Albufeira. Finally, Eurolines (www.eurolines.es) of crossing the river to Triana.
will take you to Germany, Belgium, France, Bus rides cost €1.10.
Holland and Sofia, capital of Bulgaria.
Car & Motorcycle
Train Hotels with parking usually charge you €12-
The Estación de Santa Justa (Map pp712-13; %902 18 a day for the privilege – no cheaper than
24 02 02; Avenida Kansas City) is 1.5km northeast of some public car parks but at least your vehicle
the city centre. There’s also a city-centre Renfe will be close at hand. Parking Paseo de Colón
ticket office (Map pp714-15; Calle Zaragoza 29). (Map pp714-15; cnr Paseo de Cristóbal Colón & Calle Adriano;

ANDALUCÍA
Twenty or more superfast AVE trains, reach- per hr up to 10 hr €1.20, 10-24 hr €13.50) is a relatively
ing speeds of 280km/h, whiz daily to/from inexpensive underground car park.
Madrid (€75.10, 2½ hours). There are cheaper
‘Altaria’ services (€58.90, 3½ hours). Other des- Cycle
tinations include Barcelona (€57.50 to €88, 10½ SeVici (%902 01 10 32; www.sevici.es; h7am-9pm)
to 13 hours, three daily) and the AVE (€128.30, is a bright green idea from Seville’s urban
6½ hours, one daily), Cádiz (€9.80, 1¾ hours, authority: a cycle hire network comprising
13 daily), Córdoba (€8.20 to €28.30, 40 min- almost 200 fully automated pick-up/drop-off
utes to 1½ hours, 21 or more daily), Granada points dotted all over the city (clearly shown
(€21.65, three hours, four daily), Huelva (€7.50, on a nifty folding pocket map). A one-week
1½ hours, three daily), Jerez de la Frontera subscription costs €5. Your first 30 minutes
(€6.70, 1¼ hours, nine daily), Málaga (€17.30 cycling is free, the next hour costs €1, sec-
to €33, 2½ hours/2 hours, five daily) as well as ond and subsequent hours are €2 per hour.
Mérida (€13, five hours, one daily). Alternatively, you can pay €10 and sign up for
a year (forms available at Tourist Information
GETTING AROUND Offices or online). In that case, your first hour
To/From the Airport will cost €0.50 and subsequent hours €1. A
The airport is 7km east of the city centre on clear, compact cycle route map of the city is
the A4 Córdoba road. Amarillos Tour (%902 21 available from tourist information centres.
03 17) runs buses between the airport and the Quieter, cleaner and infinitely more stylish
Puerta de Jerez (€2.20 to €2.50, 30 to 40 min- than fuming amid traffic fumes, the SeVici
utes, at least 15 daily). A taxi costs about €18. cycle network is an idea all Spanish cities would
do well to follow. The only possible drawback
Bus is the €150 deposit for both long- and short-
Buses run by Seville’s urban transport author- term hires. Use a credit card, which ‘freezes’
ity (Tussam; %902 45 99 54; www.tussam.es), C1, C2, the deduction, instead of a debit card.
C3 and C4, do useful circular routes linking
the main transport terminals and the city cen- Metro
tre. The C1, from in front of Estación de Santa Seville’s long-awaited light metro (www.sevilla21
Justa, follows a clockwise route via Avenida .com/metro in Spanish) is gradually becoming a
 730 S E V I L L E • • A r o u n d S e v i l l e lonelyplanet.com

reality. Line 1 will run west to south, from showing saints and Mudéjar geometric and
Ciudad Expo to Olivar de Quinto (the sub- floral designs. The dark wood stalls in the
urb of Dos Hermanas). It is expected to be choir are particularly imposing.
running from the end of 2008. Three further Casa Venancio (%955 99 67 06; Avenida Extremadura
lines should then begin construction; Line 2 9; mains €6.50-18), opposite the Itálica entrance,
running west to east, Line 3, north to south, does good rabbit or partridge with rice (€18
and Line 4, a semicircular route running for two).
above ground. Buses run to Santiponce (€1.20, 40 min-
utes) from Seville’s Plaza de Armas bus sta-
Tram tion, at least twice an hour from 6.35am to
Tussam’s Tranvia (www.tussam.es in Spanish), the city’s 11pm Monday to Friday, and a little less often
sleek, environmentally sustainable tram serv- at weekends. They stop near the monastery
ice, was launched in 2007. As yet just two lines and outside the Itálica entrance.
are operating, with plans to construct several
more routes over the next five years. T1 and T4 CARMONA
swish back and forth between the Plaza Nueva pop 26,000 / elev 250m
(near the ayuntamiento) and along Avenida Long-civilised Carmona, continuously in-
de la Constitución to the Archivo de Indias habited since the Neolithic era and fortified
and Puerta de Jerez, then down San Fernando since the 8th century BC, perches on a low hill
to the bus station at Prado de San Sebastian. dotted with venerable palaces and impressive
Individual rides cost €1.10, or you can buy a monuments 38km east of Seville off the A4
Bono (travel pass offering five rides for €5) from to Córdoba.
many newspaper stands and tobacconists. The helpful tourist office (%954 19 09 55; www
.turismo.carmona.org; h10am-3pm & 4.30-6pm Mon-
AROUND SEVILLE Sat, 10am-3pm Sun & holidays) is in the Puerta de
ANDALUCÍA

You’ll find Andalucía’s best Roman ruins at Sevilla at the main entrance to the old part
Itálica and, on the rolling agricultural plains of town. Buses from Seville’s Prado de San
east of Seville, fascinating old towns such Sebastián bus station (€2.55, 45 minutes, 20 a
as Carmona and Osuna that bespeak many day Monday to Friday, 10 on Saturday, seven
epochs of history. on Sunday) stop 300m west of here, on Paseo
del Estatuto.
Santiponce
pop 7000 Sights
The small town of Santiponce, 8km north- Just over 1km southwest of the Puerta de
west of Seville, is the location of Itálica and Sevilla is Carmona’s impressive Roman
of the historic Monasterio de San Isidoro necropolis (%954 14 08 11; Avenida de Jorge Bonsor;
del Campo. admission free; h9am-2pm Tue-Sat 15 Jun-14 Sep, to 5pm
Itálica (%955 99 73 76; adult/EU citizen €1.50/free; Tue-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat & Sun rest of year, closed 1 Jul-31 Aug
h8.30am-8.30pm Tue-Sat, 9am-3pm Sun Apr-Sep, 9am- holidays). You can climb down into a dozen
5.30pm Tue-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun Oct-Mar), on the north- family tombs, hewn from the rock.
ern edge of Santiponce, was the first Roman The tourist office in the Puerta de Sevilla, the
town in Spain. Founded in 206 BC, Itálica was impressive fortified main gate of the old town,
also the home town of the 2nd-century-AD sells tickets (adults/students & seniors, €2/1)
Roman emperors Trajan and Hadrian. The for the gate’s interesting upper levels.
partly reconstructed ruins include one of the Up into the old town from here, the 17th-
biggest of all the Roman amphitheatres, broad century ayuntamiento (Town Hall; Calle El Salvador;
paved streets, ruins of several houses with admission free; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri), contains a
beautiful mosaics and a theatre. large, very fine Roman mosaic of the Gorgon
The Monasterio de San Isidro del Campo (%955 Medusa. The splendid Iglesia Prioral de Santa
99 69 20; adult/students & seniors €2/1; h10am-2pm Wed & María (Calle Martín López de Córdoba; admission €3;
Thu, to 2pm & 5.30-8.30pm Fri & Sat, to 3pm Sun & holidays, h10am-2pm & 5.30-7.30pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat, closed
also 4-7pm Fri & Sat Oct-Mar) is at the southern end 20 Aug-19 Sep) was built mainly in the 15th and
of Santiponce (the end nearest Seville), 1.5km 16th centuries. But its Patio de los Naranjos
from the Itálica entrance. Founded in 1301, was originally a mosque’s courtyard and has
it contains a rare set of 15th-century murals a Visigothic calendar carved into one of its
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels S E V I L L E • • O s u n a 731

pillars. Particularly beautiful are the em- OSUNA

bossed and inlaid pair of bible covers from pop 18,000 / elev 330m
around 1400. Behind Santa María, the Museo Just off the A92 towards Granada, 91km
de la Ciudad (City History Museum; %954 14 01 28; Calle from Seville, Osuna is the loveliest of Sevilla
San Ildefonso 1; admission €2, free Tue; h10am-2pm Mon, province’s country towns, with beautifully
10am-2pm & 6.30-8.30 Tue-Thu, 9.30am-2pm Sat & holidays) preserved baroque mansions and an amaz-
provides extensive background for explora- ing Spanish Renaissance monastery. Several
tions of the town. of the most impressive buildings were cre-
The Puerta de Córdoba in Calle Dolores ated by its ducal family, one of Spain’s richest
Quintanilla at the end of the street passing the since the 16th century. About 100m north of
Iglesia de Santa María, is an original Roman Plaza Mayor in the characterful setting of the
gate in marvellous repair, framing the fertile 18th-century granary, or El Posito, the Oficina
Seville countryside that unfolds like a pre- Municipal de Turismo (%954 81 57 32; h9am-2pm
cious, faded rug. South of here is the stark, Mon-Sat) and the Asociación Turístico Cultural Osuna
ruined Alcázar, an Almohad fort that Pedro I (%954 81 28 52; h10am-2pm & 5-8pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm
turned into a country palace. Brought down Sat, closed Sun) both provide tourist information
by earthquakes in 1504 and 1755, it’s now the and hand out useful guides.
site of the luxurious parador (government-
owned luxury hotel). Sights
The massive buildings on the hill overlooking
Sleeping & Eating the centre graphically symbolise the weight
Hostal Comercio (%954 14 00 18; Calle Torre del Oro 56; of various kinds of authority in old Spain.
s/d €32/45; a) This lovely old tiled building On the way up from Plaza Mayor, the Museo
near the Puerta de Sevilla provides 14 cosy, Arqueológico (%954 81 12 07; Plaza de la Duquesa; ad-

ANDALUCÍA
clean rooms hosted by the fourth generation mission €1.50; h11.30am-1.30pm & 5-6.30pm Tue-Sun,
of this courteous family. closed Sun afternoon Jul & Aug) in the 12th-century
Hospedería Palacio Marques de las Torres (%954 Torre del Agua has a good collection of mainly
19 62 48; www.hospederiamarquesdelastorres.com; Calle Fermin Iberian and Roman reliefs, glassware and
Molpeceres 2; dm/d incl breakfast €27.90/57.25; as) coins, as well as the original of the town’s sym-
Modern comforts amid 18th-century gracious- bol, the Bull of Osuna. Further up the same
ness make for a handsome mix. Surprising hill, the 16th-century Colegiata de Santa María
dorm cabins rub shoulders with comfortable de la Asunción (%954 81 04 44; Plaza de la Encarnación;
hotel rooms containing plush beds in a con- admission by guided tour only €2; h10am-1.30pm & 4-
verted palacio, plus a fabulous turquoise pool 6.30pm Tue-Sun, closed Sun afternoon Jul & Aug), con-
in the sunny garden. tains a wealth of sacred art, including several
Parador Alcázar del Rey Don Pedro (%954 14 10 10; paintings by José de Ribera. The visit includes
www.parador.es; s/d €127.54/159.43-170.13; pais) the lugubrious Sepulcro Ducal, the Osuna
Carmona’s luxuriously equipped parador feels family vault. Opposite the Colegiata is the
even more luxurious for the ruined Alcázar in Monasterio de la Encarnación (%954 81 11 21; admis-
its grounds. The refectory-style dining room sion €2; hsame as Colegiata), now Osuna’s museum
(menú del día €31) is one of the best in town. of religious art, with beautiful tile work and a
Casa de Carmona (%954 19 10 00; www.casa rich collection of baroque art. Just down the
decarmona.com; Plaza de Lasso 1; r incl breakfast €175-180; road, the pointy blue-and-white-tiled towers
pas) A superluxurious hotel in a beauti- of the Antigua Universidad fascinate like il-
ful 16th-century palace, the Casa de Carmona lustrations in a sinister fairy tale.
feels like the aristocratic home that it used
to be. Its elegant restaurant (mains €18 to Sleeping
€25) serves haute cuisine with an andaluz Hostal Caballo Blanco (%954 81 01 84; Calle Granada
(Andalucian) touch. 1; s/d €40/58; pa) The friendly ‘White Horse
Carmona offers its very own tapas tour – the Inn’ is an historic coaching inn with court-
map is available from the Tourist Office. Start yard parking, comfy rooms and surprisingly
at cool, dark Bodega L’Antigua (Plaza del Palanque; spacious bathrooms.
tapas/raciones €1.50-3.00) opposite the Tourist Office Hotel Palacio Marqués de la Gomera (%954 81 22
and see if you can work your way around the 23; www.hotelpalaciodelmarques.com; Calle San Pedro 20; s/d
20 featured bars by closing time! €85/130; pai) This luxury hotel occupies
 732 H U E LVA P R O V I N C E • • H u e l v a Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

one of Osuna’s finest baroque mansions. It Sights

is exceptionally handsome, with rooms of The Museo Provincial (%959 25 93 00; Alameda
princely proportions and quiet luxury. It even Sundheim 13; admission free; h2.30-8.00pm Tue, 9.00am-
boasts its own ornate private chapel, well- 8.00pm Wed-Sat & Sun) focuses on Huelva prov-
upholstered library and billiard room. ince’s archaeological pedigree, especially its
millennia of mining history (see p736).
Getting There & Away
The bus station (%954 81 01 46; Avenida de la Sleeping & Eating
Constitución) is 500m southeast of Plaza Mayor. Instalación Juvenil de Huelva (%959 65 00 10; www
Up to 11 daily buses run to Seville (Prado de .inturjoven.com; Avenida Marchena Colombo 14; per person incl
San Sebastián, €6.61, 1½ hours). The train breakfast under 26yr €16, over 26yr €20; ai) This is
station (Avenida de la Estación) is 1km southwest a good, modern, wheelchair-accessible youth
of the centre, with six trains a day to Seville hostel where all rooms have a bathroom and
(€8, one hour). absolutely no frills. It’s 2km north of the bus
station: city bus 6 (€0.80) from there stops
HUELVA PROVINCE just around the corner from the hostel, on
Calle JS Elcano.
Andalucía’s little-known westernmost prov- Hotel Los Condes (%959 28 24 00; Alameda Sundheim
ince – an afterthought to most travellers who 14; s/d incl breakfast €47.50/63; pai) Large,
are not on the way to or from Portugal – bright, modern rooms, with big gleaming
is in fact a land of many and surprising re- bathrooms, plus friendly reception, free in-
wards. Around half the excellent, sandy ternet and a reasonable restaurant, add up to
Atlantic beaches of the Costa de la Luz lie a good-value hotel.
along Huelva’s coast, and the longest run of NH Luz Huelva (%959 25 00 11; www.nh-hotels.com;
ANDALUCÍA

dunes in Europe is at one of those beaches, Alameda Sundheim 26; s/d €100/135; pai) This is
Castilla. Also here is most of that beautiful the best hotel Huelva has to offer, with cool,
and hugely important wildlife sanctuary, spacious rooms in a boxy building. Ring ahead
the Parque Nacional de Doñana. Anyone to bag a parking spot.
with a historical leaning will be fascinated Taberna El Condado (%959 26 11 23; Calle Sor Ángela
by the Columbus sites outside Huelva city. de la Cruz 3; tapas €2.00, raciones €10-16; hclosed Sun)
And northern Huelva, focused on the town An atmospheric tapas dispensary of just two
of Aracena, is a beautiful rolling hill-country small rooms dominated by a ham-heavy bar,
district just waiting to be discovered on foot. specialising in tasty local meats.
Trattoria Fuentevieja (Avenida Martín Alonso Pinzón;
HUELVA mains €6-11; hclosed Sun dinner) This ultra-popular
pop 146,700 Italian spot serves a good range of salads as
The province’s unspectacular but amiable well as pizza, pasta and meat dishes. Good
capital is very much a working port and in- value menú del día at €8, 12 or 16.
dustrial city. It was probably founded by the
Phoenicians as a trading settlement about Getting There & Away
3000 years ago. What’s here today, however, From the bus station (%959 25 69 00) at least 18
has almost all been built since the devastating daily buses head to Seville (€7.14, 1¼ hours)
Lisbon earthquake of 1755. and four to Madrid (€21.80, seven hours). Two
(except Saturday, Sunday and holidays from
Orientation & Information October to May) head for Lagos (€13 to €14,
Huelva stands between the Odiel and Tinto es- four hours) in Portugal via Faro and Albufeira.
tuaries. The central area is about 1km square, From the train station (%902 24 02 02) three daily
with the bus station at its western edge, on trains head to Seville (€7.50, 1½ hours).
Calle Doctor Rubio, and the train station at its
southern edge on Avenida de Italia. The main LUGARES COLOMBINOS
street is Avenida Martín Alonso Pinzón (also The Lugares Colombinos (Columbus Sites)
called Gran Vía). The nearby regional tourist are the three townships of La Rábida, Palos
office (%959 65 02 00; Plaza Alcalde Coto Mora 2; h9am- de la Frontera and Moguer, along the eastern
7.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat & Sun) is outstandingly bank of the Tinto estuary east of Huelva. All
well informed and helpful. three played key roles in the discovery of the
lonelyplanet.com H U E LVA P R O V I N C E • • Pa r q u e N a c i o n a l d e D o ñ a n a 733

Americas and can be combined in a single Getting There & Away

day trip from Huelva, the Doñana area or At least 10 buses a day leave Huelva for La
the nearby coast. Rábida (€1, 30 minutes), with half of them
continuing to Palos de la Frontera (€1, 35
La Rabida minutes) and Moguer (€1.20, 30 minutes).
pop 600 The others go on to Mazagón.
In this pretty and peaceful town, don’t miss
the 14th-century Monasterio de La Rábida (%959 PARQUE NACIONAL DE DOÑANA
35 04 11; admission €3; h10am-1pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sat Apr- Spain’s most celebrated and in many ways
Jul & Sep, 10am-1pm to 6.15pm Tue-Sat Oct-Mar, 10am-1pm most important wildlife refuge, the Doñana
& 4.45-8pm Tue-Sat Aug, 10.45am-1pm Sun year-round), National Park, created in 1969, is one of
visited several times by Columbus before Europe’s last remaining great wetlands.
his great voyage of discovery. On the water- Covering 542 sq km in the southeast of Huelva
front below the monastery is the Muelle de las province and neighbouring Sevilla province,
Carabelas (Wharf of the Caravels; %959 53 05 97; admission this World Heritage site is a vital refuge for
€3.30; h10am-2pm & 5-9pm Tue-Fri, 11am-8pm Sat, Sun & such endangered species as the Spanish impe-
holidays Jun-Sep, 10am-7pm Tue-Sun Oct-May), where you rial eagle. It offers a unique combination of
can board replicas of Columbus’ tiny three- ecosystems and a place of haunting beauty
ship fleet, crewed by ludicrous mannequins. that is well worth the effort of getting to. To
visit the national park you must take a tour
Palos de la Frontera from the Centro de Visitantes El Acebuche
pop 8500 (p735) on the western side of the park, or
La Rabida’s neighbouring town boasts the Casa from El Rocío (p734) at the park’s northwest
Museo Martín Alonso Pinzón (%959 10 00 41; Calle Colón corner, or from Sanlúcar de Barrameda (p745)
24; admission €2; h10am-2pm Tue-Sat), once the home

ANDALUCÍA
at its southeast corner.
of the Pinta’s captain. Further along Calle Half the park consists of marismas (wet-
Colón is the 15th-century Iglesia de San Jorge lands) of the Guadalquivir delta, the largest

ὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
where Columbus and his men took commun- area of wetlands in Europe. Almost dry from
ion before embarking for their great voyage. July to October, in autumn the marismas fill
Stop to take on supplies yourself at El with water, attracting hundreds of thousands
Bodegón (%959 53 11 05; Calle Rábida 46; mains €10-23; of wintering water birds from the north. As
hclosed Tue), a noisy, atmospheric cavern of the waters sink in spring, other birds – greater
a restaurant that cooks up fish and meat on flamingos, spoonbills, storks – arrive, many

ὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
wood-fired grills. to nest. The park also has a 28km Atlantic
beach, separated from the marismas by a band
Moguer
pop 16,300
Sleepy Moguer provided many of Columbus’ PARQUE NACIONAL

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
crew. There’s a helpful tourist office (%959 37 DE DOÑANA 0
0
5 km
3 miles

18 98; Calle Castillo s/n; h10am-2pm & 5-7pm Mon-Sat, Zona de El Rocío Coto del Rey Parque Natural

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ

ὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
Protección To Almonte de Doñana
10am-3pm Sun, Mon & holidays) a couple of blocks Centro de Río (12km); Bollullos del
Información M Condado (21km);
To Villamanrique
de la Condesa (16km);

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ad Sevillle (52km)
south of the central Plaza del Cabildo, in Parque Las Rocinas
Natural
re Seville (36km)
A483
Moguer’s Castillo, a dramatic, bare walled en-
de las

de Doñana
BraTorre
la

Centro de Visitantes

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Cañ

Centro de
zo d

closure of Almohad origin, expanded in the El Acebuche

Marismas

Visitantes José
o

A494 Zona de Antonio Valverde

14th century.
de

Protección

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Guadiamar

The 14th-century Monasterio de Santa Clara Matalascañas

ὈὈ
ὈὈ
To Mazagón
(%959 37 01 07; Plaza de las Monjas; guided tour €3; (20km); Parque Nacional Parque

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Huelva
h11am-2pm & 5-7pm Mon-Fri) is where Columbus (39km) de Doñana
Lucio de
Natural de
Doñana
los Ánsares
kept a prayerful vigil the night after returning

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
from his first voyage in March 1493. Río uivir
dalq
Mesón El Lobito (%959 37 06 60; Calle Rábida Gua

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Lucio del Parque
31; raciones €4-12; hclosed Wed), ‘the Wolf’, is a ATLANTIC
Membrillo Natural Trebujena
de Doñana
characterful place to sample good coun-

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
OCEAN
try cooking under the gaze of its snarling, A471
Park Boundary To Sanlúcar de
stuffed namesake. Bonanza
Barrameda (1km)

Parque Nacional de Doñana (m)

 734 H U E LVA P R O V I N C E • • Pa r q u e N a c i o n a l d e D o ñ a n a lonelyplanet.com

of sand dunes up to 5km wide; and 144 sq km year-round lake. On these trips you have high
of coto (woodland and scrub), which harbours chances of seeing deer and boar and will defi-
many mammals, including deer, wild boar nitely see a great diversity of birds. January,
and semiwild horses. April and May are the best months.
Interesting areas surrounding the national Recommended operators:
park are included in the 540-sq-km Parque Discovering Doñana (%959 44 24 66; www.discover
Natural de Doñana, a separate protected area ingdonana.com; Calle Águila Imperial 150, El Rocío; 6hr
comprising four distinct zones. trip 1-3 people €120) Expert English-speaking guides; most
trips are of broad interest, and their website carries glow-
El Rocío ing testimonials to guides’ enthusiasm and dedication.
pop 1200 Doñana Nature (%959 44 21 60; www.donana
The village of El Rocío overlooks a section of -nature.com; Calle Las Carretas 10, El Rocío; 3½hr trip per
the Doñana marismas at the park’s northwest- person adult/under 16 €25/12.50) Half-day trips, at 8am
ern corner. The village’s sandy streets bear and 6pm daily (3.30pm in winter), are of general interest;
as many hoof prints as tyre marks, and they English- and French-speaking guides available.
are lined with rows of verandahed buildings Doñana Ecuestre (%959 44 24 74; Avenida de la
that are empty most of the time. But this is Canaliega s/n; per 1hr/2hr/half-day €20/30/40) Offers
no ghost town: most of the houses belong to enjoyable guided horse rides through the woodlands west
the 90-odd hermandades of pilgrim-revellers of El Rocío, some led by qualified biologists.
and their families, who converge on El Rocío
every year in the extraordinary Romería del FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Rocío (see right). In fact, a party atmos- Every Pentecost (Whitsuntide), the seventh
phere pervades the village at most weekends weekend after Easter, El Rocío is inundated
as hermandades arrive to carry out lesser with up to a million pilgrim-revellers from
ceremonial acts. all corners of Spain in the Romería del Rocío
ANDALUCÍA

(Pilgrimage to El Rocío). This vast cult

INFORMATION festivity revolves around the tiny image of
The tourist office (%959 44 38 08; www.turismode Nuestra Señora del Rocío, which was found
donana.com; Avenida de la Canaliega s/n; h9.30am-1.30pm here in a tree by a hunter from Almonte back
& 3-5pm Mon-Fri) is by the main road at the west- in the 13th century. Carrying it home, the
ern end of the village. It can make reservations hunter stopped for a rest and the statue mi-
for park tours. The Centro de Información Las raculously made its own way back to the tree.
Rocinas (%959 43 95 70; h9am-3pm & 4-7pm, to 8pm or Before long a chapel was built where the tree
9pm Apr-Aug, to 3pm Sun 15 Jun-14 Sep), 1km south on had stood (now El Rocío) and pilgrims were
the A483, has national park information and making for it.
paths to nearby birdwatching hides. Today almost 100 hermandades from
around and beyond Andalucía, some com-
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES prising several thousand men and women,
The heart of the village is the Ermita del travel to El Rocío each year on foot, on horse-
Rocío (h8am-10.30pm Apr-Sep, 8.30am-8pm Oct-Mar), back and in gaily decorated covered wagons
the church housing the celebrated Virgen pulled by cattle or horses, using cross-country
del Rocío, a tiny wooden image in long, tracks.
jewel-encrusted robes. Many come to pay Solemn is the last word you’d apply to this
their respects every day in this handsome quintessentially Andalucian event. The ‘pil-
white-walled church. grims’ dress in bright Andalucian costume
Deer and horses graze in the shallow water and sing, dance, drink and romance their way
in front of the village, and you might see a to El Rocío.
flock of flamingos wheeling through the sky Things reach an ecstatic climax in the early
in a great pink cloud. The bridge over the hours of the Monday. Members of the her-
river on the A483, 1km south of the village, mandad of Almonte, which claims the Virgin
is another good viewing spot. for its own, barge into the church and bear
Several operators run tours along the her out on a float. Chaotic struggles ensue
northern fringe of the national park to the as others battle with the Almonte lads for
remote Centro de Visitantes José Antonio Valverde the honour of carrying La Blanca Paloma,
(h10am-7pm, to 8pm or 9pm Apr-Aug), overlooking a but somehow good humour survives and the
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels H U E LVA P R O V I N C E • • Pa r q u e N a c i o n a l d e D o ñ a n a 735

Virgin is carried round to each of the brother- Oct-Apr, 5pm May-Sep). During spring, summer
hood buildings, finally returning to the Ermita and holidays, book at least a month ahead,
in the afternoon. but otherwise a week is usually plenty of no-
tice. Bring binoculars if you can, drinking
SLEEPING & EATING water in summer and mosquito protection
Don’t bother even trying for a room at except in winter. Most guides speak Spanish
Romería time. only. The tour normally starts with a long
Camping La Aldea (%959 44 26 77; www.camping beach drive, before moving inland. You can
laaldea.com; Carretera El Rocío Km25; sites per adult/tent/car be pretty certain of seeing deer and boar, but
€6.50/6.50/6.50, cabin or bungalow for 4 or 5 adults €115-30; ornithologists may be disappointed by the
pais) At the north end of the village, limited bird-observation opportunities.
well-equipped La Aldea has a range of cosy
cabins and bungalows as well as over 250 Matalascañas & Mazagón
camping spaces. These two small resorts on the long, sandy
Pensión Cristina (%959 44 24 13; Calle El Real 58; s/d beach running northwest from the national
€30/36) Just east of the Ermita, the Cristina pro- park provide alternative bases to El Rocío.
vides reasonably comfortable budget rooms Matalascañas town itself is a sad contrast to
and a popular restaurant (mains €5 to €15) the adjacent wildernesses, but Mazagón, 28km
serving paella, venison, seafood and more. up the coast, is lower-key. At Cuesta de Maneli,
Hotel & Restaurante Toruño (%959 44 23 23; Plaza between the two, a 1.2km boardwalk leads
Acebuchal 22; s/d incl breakfast €65/105; pai) An across 100m-high dunes from a car park to the
attractive villa overlooking the marismas, beach through glorious pines and junipers.
Toruño has 30 well-appointed rooms. Some Both towns have large camping grounds
have marsh views, so you can see the spoonbills and a range of hotels.
having their breakfast when you wake. Across Hotel Albaida (%959 37 60 29; www.hotelalbaida.com;

ANDALUCÍA
the road, the restaurant (mains €12 to €22) Carretera Huelva-Matalascañas, Mazagón; s €44-65, d €55-90,
dishes up generous portions of well-prepared all incl breakfast; pa) has airy rooms and wel-
country and coastal fare. Served proudly on coming staff; among pines just off the high-
a plate, the salmorejo soup is surely the rich- way and close to the beach. Book ahead for
est and thickest in all Andalucía, as red and Hotel Doñana Blues (%959 44 98 17; www.donanablues
fragrant as a kiss. .com; Sector I, Parcela 129, Matalascañas; r €105; ais),
Aires de Doñana (%959 44 27 19; Avenida de la a small hotel in comfortable yet appealingly
Canaliega 1; mains €15-19; hclosed Mon) Aires de rustic style, set in pretty gardens.
Doñana stands out among El Rocío eater- The interior and exterior of the Parador de
ies with its picture windows right over the Mazagón (%959 53 63 00; www.parador.es; Playa de
marismas, polished service and successfully Mazagón; s/d €129/159; pais), 6km east of
imaginative menu. central Mazagón, blend pleasingly with its
splendid natural surroundings and the luxuri-
Centro de Visitantes El Acebuche ous rooms all have sea views.
Twelve kilometres south of El Rocío on the
A483, then 1.6km west, El Acebuche (%959 Getting There & Away
44 87 11; h8am-9pm May-Sep, to 7pm Oct-Apr) is the Three daily buses run between Seville (Plaza
national park’s main visitor centre. It has de Armas) and Matalascañas (€6.50, 1¾
an interactive exhibit on the park and paths hours) via El Rocío (€6, 1½ hours). One or
to birdwatching hides, plus a film show of two further services along the A483 between
Iberian lynxes at El Acebuche – the closest Almonte and Matalascañas also stop at El
visitors can get to them. Rocío. All these buses will stop on request
outside El Acebuche visitors centre.
NATIONAL PARK TOURS From Huelva, buses go to Mazagón (€2.10,
Trips in 20-person all-terrain vehicles from El 35 minutes, up to 13 daily), with just two of
Acebuche are the only way for ordinary folk these (Monday to Friday only) continuing
to get into the interior of the national park to Matalascañas (€4.30, 50 minutes). Extra
from the western side. Book ahead through services may run in summer. You can travel
Cooperativa Marismas del Rocío (%959 43 04 32/51; between Huelva and El Rocío by changing
4hr tour per person €25; h8.30am Tue-Sun year-round, 3pm buses at Almonte.
 736 H U E LVA P R O V I N C E • • W e s t o f H u e l v a lonelyplanet.com

THE BODEGAS OF BOLLULLOS

For the hungry traveller heading west on the E1/A49 from Seville towards Huelva and the
Portuguese border, Bollullos Par del Condada is the place to stop for a hearty and well-priced
lunch. Along Calle 28 Febrero in the centre of town, a series of bodegas (old wine warehouses)
have been converted into huge, bustling eating halls hosting holiday-happy diners from Seville,
Huelva and even Madrid. Great value grilled meats and seafood from nearby Huelva feature on
the simple menus (from around €8). Don’t be lured into the ‘posh’ restaurant side; stick to the
long tables in the main hall for a feast of good food and Spanish family-watching. Try Bodegón
Abeulo Curro at number 97. To reach the bodegas, take exit 48 on the A483 turnoff south
towards Almonte.

WEST OF HUELVA The area’s hub is the town of Minas de

The coast between Huelva and the Portuguese Riotinto, 68km northeast of Huelva.
border, 53km to the west, is lined nearly all the
way by a superb, broad, sandy beach backed Sights & Activities
for long stretches by dunes and trees. The The attractions are run by the Parque Minero
coastal settlements emphasise tourism but de Riotinto (%959 59 00 25; www.parquemineroderio
also retain port character. tinto.sigadel.com in Spanish), headquartered at the
Punta Umbría, Huelva’s summer playground, well-signposted Museo Minero (Plaza Ernest Lluch;
has a friendly atmosphere and an attractive adult/under 13yr €4/3; h10.30am-3pm & 4-7pm). The
location between the Atlantic beach and the fascinating museum, which was the Riotinto
peninsular wetlands of the Marismas del Odiel, company hospital between 1873 and 1954,
ANDALUCÍA

creating an agreeable mix of seaside and coun- takes you right through the Riotinto area’s
tryside activities in one location. Further west, unique history from megalithic tombs to the
Isla Cristina has a bustling fishing port and plenty Roman and British colonial eras and finally
more of the same great beach. Ayamonte, the the closure of the mines in 2001. Its best fea-
most westerly resort on the Andalucian coast, tures include a 200m-long re-creation of a
stands beside the broad Río Guadiana, which Roman mine, and the Vagón del Maharajah,
divides Spain from Portugal. A free road bridge a luxurious carriage used by Alfonso XIII to
crosses the river 2km north of Ayamonte, but visit the mines.
there’s also a ferry from the town (€4.50 for a An easy and fun way to see the mining
car and driver, €1.35 for pedestrians). area is to ride the Ferrocarril Turístico-Minero
Recommended is Hotel El Paraíso Playa (%959 (adult/child €10/9; h1.30pm 1 Jun-15 Jul; 1.30pm & 5.30pm
33 02 35; www.hotelparaisoplaya.com; Avenida de la Playa, Isla 16 Jul-30 Sep; 1pm Mon-Fri, 4pm Sat, Sun & holidays 1 Oct-30
Cristina; s/d €50-65/80-129 incl breakfast; pais) Nov), taking visitors on the 22km round-trip
a friendly and attractive two-storey hotel, through the surreal landscape in restored
with restaurant, a stone’s throw from Playa early-20th-century railway carriages. Trips
Central. (Rates dip by 25% to 50% outside start at Talleres Minas, 2.5km east of Minas de
July and August.) Riotinto. Another trip is to the old copper and
sulphur mines of Peña de Hierro (adult/child €8/7;
MINAS DE RIOTINTO h12-1.30pm & 5.30-7pm daily), 9km from Minas
pop 6200 / elev 420m de Riotinto. Here you see the source of Río
Tucked away on the fringe of Huelva’s Tinto, an 85m-deep open-cast mine, and are
northern hills is one of the world’s oldest taken into a 200m-long underground mine
mining districts – an unearthly, sculpted and gallery. For both these trips it’s essential to
scarred landscape that makes a fascinating book ahead, and schedules may change.
stop. Copper was being dug up here at least The Parque Minero is not running trips
4000 years ago, iron has been mined since at to the Corta Atalaya, 1km west of the town.
least Roman times, and in the 19th century But you can still get a peep at this awesome
the British-dominated Rio Tinto Company opencast mine, 1.2km long and 335m deep,
turned the area into one of the world’s great if you follow the sign to it as you enter Minas
copper-mining centres. de Riotinto from the southwest.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels H U E LVA P R O V I N C E • • A r a c e n a 737

Sleeping & Eating the entrance to the Gruta de las Maravillas

Hostal Galán (%959 59 08 40; www.hostalrestaurante (see below) and sells some maps of the area.
galan.com; Avenida La Esquila 10; s/d €30/42; a) Just
around the corner from the Museo Minero, Sights & Activities
Minas de Riotinto’s only accommodation has Aracena’s biggest tourist attraction, the Gruta
plain but acceptable rooms and a handy res- de las Maravillas (Cave of Marvels; %959 12 83 55; Calle
taurant (menú €10.50). Pozo de la Nieve; tour adult/under 19yr €8/5.50 htours
Hotel Vázquez Díaz (%/fax 959 58 09 27; personal every hr or ½hr 10am-1.30pm & 3-6pm), ranks among
.telefonica.terra.es/web/hotelvazquezdiaz; Calle Cañadilla 51, Spain’s most picturesque cave systems, and
Nerva; s/d €38/48; ai) A welcoming, well-run is beautifully lit for maximum theatricality.
hotel with decent rooms and its own good The Cerro del Castillo is an extremely romantic-
restaurant (menú €14), in Nerva, 5km east looking white village crowned by a beautiful
of Minas. Gothic Mudéjar church and a ruined castle,
both built around 1300.
Getting There & Away
Up to six daily buses run from Huelva to Minas Sleeping & Eating
de Riotinto (€5.50, 1½ hours) and Nerva (€6, Molino del Bombo (%959 12 84 78; www.molinodel
1¾ hours) and vice versa. Casal (%954 99 92 62) bombo.com in Spanish; Calle Ancha 4; s/d €21/42; ai)
has three daily buses from Seville (Plaza de Rustic as a farmhouse fireside, the Molino
Armas) to Nerva (€4, 1½ hours) and Minas stands near the top of the town and offers
de Riotinto (€4.50, 1¾ hours). charming country-style rooms at extremely
reasonable prices.
ARACENA Hospedería Reina de los Ángeles (%959 12 83
pop 6300 / elev 730m 67; www.hospederiareinadelosangeles; Avenida Reina de los
Ángeles s/n; s/d €25/41.50; i) This former residence

ANDALUCÍA
This appealing, whitewashed old market
town, spreading around the skirts of Cerro for school students, opened as a hotel in 2005,
del Castillo, makes a good base for exploring provides 90 utilitarian but spotless rooms with
the lovely, rolling hill country of northern phone and TV and a convivial cafe-bar – a
Huelva. Most of the hill country lies within good budget deal.
the 1840-sq-km Parque Natural Sierra de Aracena Finca Valbono (%959 12 77 11; www.fincavalbono
y Picos de Aroche, Andalucía’s second-largest .com; Carretera Carboneras Km1; s/d €75/90.16, 4-person apt
protected area. €157; pais) A converted farmhouse
Aracena’s Municipal tourist office (%959 12 82 1km northeast of town, this is Aracena’s most
06; Calle Pozo de la Nieve; h10am-2pm & 4-6.30pm) faces charming accommodation. Facilities include
a pool, riding stables and a good, medium-
priced restaurant (mains €8 to €18). It’s also
THE MARTE PROJECT wheelchair accessible.
On trips to Peña de Hierro you’ll see the Café-Bar Manzano (%959 12 63 37; Plaza del Marqués
area where since 2003 scientists from de Aracena; tapas €1.80-3.50, raciones €9-18; h8am-8pm
the USA’s NASA and Spain’s Centro de or later Wed-Sat & Mon, 10am-8pm Sun) This terrace
Astrobiología in Madrid have been conduct- cafe on the main plaza is a fine spot to watch
ing a research program called MARTE (Mars Aracena go by and enjoy varied tapas and
Analog Research & Technology Experiment) raciones that celebrate wild mushrooms and
in preparation for seeking life on Mars. It’s other regional fare.
thought that the high acid levels that give Restaurante José Vicente (%959 12 84 55; Avenida
Río Tinto its rust-red colour (the action of de Andalucía 53; 3-course menú €20; hclosed Sun evening,
acid on iron) are a product of underground last week Jun & 1st week Jul) The proprietor is an
microorganisms comparable with those expert on sierra cuisine, and the fixed-price
that may exist below the surface of Mars. menú (which includes a drink) is excellent.
Experiments in locating these microbes up It’s advisable to book.
to 150m below ground level are helping
to develop techniques for seeking similar Getting There & Away
subterranean life on the red planet. The bus station (Avenida de Sevilla) is towards the
southeast edge of town. Two daily buses
 738 C Á D I Z P R O V I N C E • • C á d i z lonelyplanet.com

come from Seville (Plaza de Armas; €5.67,

1¼ hours), one or two from Huelva (€6.75, CÁDIZ PROVINCE
2¼ hours), and up to three from Minas de
It’s hard to fathom how an area little more
Riotinto (€2.30, one hour). A Casal bus leaves
than 100km from north to south or east to west
at 10.30am to the Portuguese border just be-
can encompass such variety. Cosmopolitan,
yond Rosal de la Frontera, where you can
cultured, fun-loving Cádiz city can seem a
change to onward buses for Lisbon (€18.50,
world away from nearby Jerez de la Frontera,
nine hours from Aracena).
where aristocratic, sherry-quaffing, equestrian
elegance rubs shoulders with poor quarters
WEST OF ARACENA that have nurtured some of the great flamenco
The hills, valleys and villages of Huelva’s portion artists; and neither city has much in com-
of the Sierra Morena form one of Andalucía’s mon with the unromantic industrial port of
most surprisingly beautiful landscapes. Most Algeciras. The colourful, bustling towns of the
of the villages grew up around fortress-like ‘sherry triangle’ give way to the long, sandy
churches, or hilltop castles constructed in me- beaches of the Atlantic coast and the hip in-
dieval times to deter the Portuguese. The area is ternational surf scene of Tarifa. Inland, the
threaded by well-maintained walking trails with majestic cork forests of Los Alcornocales yield
ever-changing vistas. Good walking routes are to the rugged peaks and pristine white villages
particularly thick in the area between Aracena of the Sierra de Grazalema. Active travellers
and Cortegana, making attractive villages such in Cádiz can enjoy Europe’s best windsurfing,
as Alájar, Castaño del Robledo and Almonaster hike dramatic mountains, trek the country-
la Real good bases. Discovery Walking Guides’ side on horseback or train their binoculars
Sierra de Aracena and accompanying Sierra de on some of Spain’s most spectacular birds.
Aracena Tour & Trail Map are terrific aids to Meanwhile, the province’s fascinating and
ANDALUCÍA

the walker here. diverse history is ever-present in the shape

One kilometre above Alájar (towards of thrillingly sited hilltop castles, beautiful
Fuenteheridos), the Peña de Arias Montano has churches and medieval mosques.
magical views, as does Cerro de San Cristóbal
(915m), a 4km uphill drive from Almonaster. CÁDIZ
Almonaster’s 10th-century mezquita (mosque; pop 128,600
h8.30am-7pm approx) is a gem of Islamic architec- Once past the coastal marshes and industrial
ture and features the oldest mihrab, or prayer sprawl around Cádiz, you emerge into an el-
niche, in Spain. Jamón serrano from nearby egant, historic port city of largely 18th- and
Jabugo is acclaimed as the best in Spain, and 19th-century construction. The old part of
the village’s Carretera San Juan del Puerto is Cádiz is crammed onto the head of a prom-
lined with bars and restaurants waiting for ontory like some huge, crowded, ocean-going
your verdict! ship, and the tang of salty air and ocean vistas
There are a few recommended lodgings: are never far away. Cádiz has a long and fas-
Posada del Castaño (%959 46 55 02; www.posadadel cinating history, absorbing monuments and
castano.com; Calle José Sánchez Calvo 33, Castaño del Robledo; s/d museums and plenty of enjoyable places to eat
incl breakfast €40/50;i) is a characterfully converted and drink. It is enjoying a top-notch urban
village house whose helpful young British own- renovation program in preparation for the
ers have walkers foremost in mind. Hotel Casa 200th anniversary of the Cádiz parliament
García (%959 14 31 09; Avenida San Martín 2, Almonaster la in 2012.
Real; s/d €37/53; mains €10-12; pa) is a small, styl-
ish hotel with a highly regarded restaurant. La History
Posada (%959 12 57 12; www.laposadadealajar.com; Calle Cádiz may be the oldest city in Europe.
Médico Emilio González 2, Alájar; s/d incl breakfast €45/60) is a Historians date its founding to the arrival of
very cosy inn whose owners are keen walkers Phoenician traders in 800 BC.
themselves and speak very good English. Local In less-distant times, Cádiz began to boom
live music acts play at weekends; its shop sells after Columbus’ trips to the Americas. He
maps and regional recipe books. sailed from here on his second and fourth
Daily Casal (%Seville 954 99 92 62) buses con- voyages. Cádiz attracted Spain’s enemies too:
nect nearly all these villages with Aracena and in 1587 England’s Sir Francis Drake ‘singed
Seville (Plaza de Armas). the king of Spain’s beard’ with a raid on the
 0 300 m
CÁDIZ 0 0.2 miles

34 INFORMATION SLEEPING
Locutorio Telefónico....................1 D3 Casa Caracol..............................15 D3
Punta Main Post Office..........................2 D3 Hospedería Las Cortes de Cádiz..16 C2
37
lonelyplanet.com

Candelaria Municipal Tourist Office (Main Hostal Bahía...............................17 D3

Bahía Office).....................................3 D3 Hostal Fantoni...........................18 D3
6 de Cádiz D3
Regional Tourist Office................4 Hotel Argantonio.......................19 C2
Ala
m Parador Hotel Atlántico..............20 A2
de eda
Co Alameda SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

II
m ar
q Ayuntamiento.............................. 5 D3 EATING

M ill

sI e
o
a s ué
s

r lo o d
P
C
Baluarte de la Candelaria..............6 B1 Bar Zapata.................................21 C3

Ca ase
A

toólic
Ca lame d a Apodaca Plaza de Castillo de Santa Catalina.............7 A3 Cafetería Las Nieves...................22 D3
CA lde 27 C F 33
Cathedral.....................................8 C4 El Aljibe..................................... 23 D4

CF
ró

ho
do l

El Caernando
fd n Salv Argüelles

s
och

ca
eC de

nac al
Mercado Central..........................9 C3 El Faro.......................................24 A4

C
Parque del CE a ea

ire
la

la
Plaza

C or
38

MeGenerrilla
atóli
las Mnrique stro Ba Museo de Cádiz.........................10 C2 La Gorda Te Da De Comer.........25 C2

Ul
Genovés

és

sA
Mentidero

C
arin de rc a Plaza de la

no

ez
as Museo de las Cortes de Cádiz.....11 B3 La Gorda Te Da De Comer.........26 C3

La C lsabel
Plaza

ue
Plaza de Hispanidad

R a n c nu e l

óm
C Ma
C An
C de Mina tonio España 39

CB
Oratorio de San Felipe Neri........12 B3 Mesón Cumbres Mayores..........27 C2

rG
Ce Plaza San 10 Lópe
z

to
C Sa

c
nta rv CT Plaza San Roman Theatre.......................... 13 D4
in

o
Rosa an Antonio CS

D
e
lia te a t Francisco 30
Torre Tavira...............................14 C3 DRINKING
20 s

Av
C n Pe
Plaza dro 32 31 diz

sé
Cá Café de Levante.........................28 C3
Fragela 41

Jo
no ego de Cáue
CP C Beato Di

n
El Teniente Seblon.....................29 D3

C
ére va uq
zG Plaza lL

Sa
CB sd
e

An
de era 19 Medussa....................................30 C2

C
aldo el
s 35 16 n

ch
Plaza de njume Ca Ge Dársena

a
a a s Nahu..........................................31 C2

C
C S Falla San Felipe C 25
st del Puerto

Fr
acra til

Sa
lo

Av R
C Dr me Neri ga O'Connell's................................32 C2

nt
n a

a
t S C

n
Mar o

C anci
añó C

ño
n 12 Jos

Iné
a mó

ela

s
Sa sco
éd

n
26

soro
el

Av
C So 11 ENTERTAINMENT

lum

Arias
lano Paseo de

C
7 Plaza del 42

l Te del
Tor28

a
CE o

Nazare

Du
Co
CH Canalejas Central Lechera..........................33 C2

de C
nca Palillero

Ro

Rea rqués
a

C
ospi

qu
rna

CM
sa
tal d 14 C Fedu
El Malecón.................................34 D1

iego
ción eM C Mon chy 22

rr a

rio

ed
sús
tañés

Av
ujer 21

Jos
s

nz
es Gran Teatro Falla........................35 B2

CD
r e 3

ata l
de

eN
CN

C Je
C Santo

an
C Moreno de Mora Peña Flamenca La Perla............. 36 D4

lP
icara Cristo zana43
n n

áje
Zaprdena
gua a l o

CC
ue
Plaza Plaza de Plaza M

CS

ra
C Co 40 Sala Anfiteátro...........................37 D1

CN
l

rt o
Candelaria a

u
Libertad Topete
tó b

ev
o 2 uan

a
C ri s c J

ad
C Maria C n
Playa de
de Artea
ga 9 F l a m e 18 an s
S o Plaza de TRANSPORT

C José
i C Av

bert
C
la Caleta ol a Di Comes Bus Station..................... 38 D2
Sevilla

b
C De az e de

C
C Cardoso sam 4 Pl d 1

Ar
om

C Cobos
de Cádiz

C Li
As

Celestino Mutis
C Marqués
C Virgen p Estación Marítima......................39 D2

C
pa 17
til

ra d a ñia
C Pelota 15
le

C Porlier de la Palma CP Los Amarillos Bus Stop...............40 D3

Cu

os
Plaza de la
ro

C Cruz
l oc
s

29 ia
to
es t

C San Juan Catedral

C Plaza de España Bus Stop...........41 D2
Barrio de Plaza Sop 23
ad

C Sagasta
8 Underground Car Park...............42 D3
e

la Viña de Fray C M ranis

F elix So
Cam erc Viajes Socialtur.......................... 43 D3
las

Barrio del Félix Barrio ed

C

C San Félix
po Pópulo
24 d e S de Santa Train
Ca

uel a l
bisbo

Sur an
C Venez 13 Station
les

MaríaC
CO
as

To Castillo de Ten
Mar

ient
ta ia

San Sebastián eA
ica

ndú
(500m) C jar
Co
ingo

nce
ATLANTIC
C B ot

p ci
ón
CS

OCEAN a
Domanto

Are ahi
nal Puertas la B
de
de Tierra Av
36 To Playa de la Victoria (1.5km); Hospital Puerta del Mar (2km);
Plaza de la Barabass (2.5km); Secorbus Bus Stop (3.5km); AP4 (13km);
Constitución Jerez de la Frontera (35km); Vejer de la Frontera (51km)
C Á D I Z P R O V I N C E • • C á d i z 739

ANDALUCÍA
 740 C Á D I Z P R O V I N C E • • C á d i z lonelyplanet.com

harbour, delaying the imminent Spanish ayuntamiento built around 1800. Between here
Armada. In 1596 Anglo-Dutch attackers and the cathedral is the Barrio del Pópulo, the
burnt almost the entire city. kernel of medieval Cádiz and a focus of the
Cádiz’s golden age was the 18th century, city’s recent sprucing-up program. At the
when it enjoyed 75% of Spanish trade with the nearby Roman Theatre (%956 25 17 88; Campo del
Americas. It grew into the richest and most Sur; admission free; h 10am-2.30pm Wed-Mon) you
cosmopolitan city in Spain and gave birth to can walk along a gallery beneath the tiers of
the country’s first progressive, liberal middle seating. The theatre was discovered by chance
class. During the Napoleonic Wars, Cádiz in 1980.
held out under French siege from 1810 to
1812, when a national parliament meeting CATHEDRAL
here adopted Spain’s liberal 1812 constitution, Cádiz’s yellow-domed cathedral (%956 28 61 54;
proclaiming sovereignty of the people. Plaza de la Catedral; adult/student €5/3, free during services;
The loss of the American colonies in the h10am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4.30pm Sat, 1-6.30pm Sun,
19th century plunged Cádiz into a decline services 7-8pm Tue-Fri, 11am-1pm Sun) is an impressively
from which it is only today recovering, with proportioned baroque-cum-neoclassical con-
increased tourism playing a significant role. struction but by Spanish standards very sober
in its decoration. It fronts a broad, traffic-free
Orientation plaza where the cathedral’s ground-plan is
Breathing space between the huddled streets of picked out in the paving stones. The decision
the old city is provided by numerous squares; to build the cathedral was taken in 1716 but
the most important for orientation being the project wasn’t finished until 1838, by which
Plaza San Juan de Dios, Plaza de la Catedral time neoclassical elements, such as the dome,
and Plaza de Topete in the southeast, and towers and main facade, had diluted Vicente
Plaza de Mina in the north. Pedestrianised Acero’s original baroque plan. From a separate
ANDALUCÍA

Calles Nueva and San Francisco run most of entrance on Plaza de la Catedral, climb to the
the way between Plaza San Juan de Dios and top of the Torre de Poniente (Western Tower; %956
Plaza de Mina. 25 17 88; adult/child/senior €4/3/3; h10am-6pm, to 8pm 15
The train station is just east of the old city, Jun-15 Sep) for marvellous vistas.
off Plaza de Sevilla, with the main bus station
(of the Comes line) 900m to its north on Plaza PLAZA DE TOPETE & AROUND
de la Hispanidad. The 18th-century Puertas A short walk northwest from the cathedral,
de Tierra (Land Gates) mark the southern this square is one of Cádiz’s liveliest, bright
boundary of the old city. with flower stalls and adjoining the large, lively
Mercado Central (Central Market). Nearby, the
Information Torre Tavira (%956 21 29 10; Calle Marqués del Real Tesoro
You’ll find plenty of banks and ATMs along 10; adult/student €4/3.30; h10am-6pm, to 8pm 15 Jun-15
Calle Nueva and the parallel Avenida Ramón Sep) is the highest of Cádiz’s old watchtowers
de Carranza. (in the 18th century the city had no less than
Hospital Puerta del Mar (%956 00 21 00; Avenida 160 of these, built so that citizens could ob-
Ana de Viya 21) The main general hospital, 2km southeast serve the comings and goings of ships without
of Puertas de Tierra. leaving home). It provides great panoramas
Locutorio Telefónico (Calle Lázaro Dou 1; internet per and has a camera obscura projecting live images
hr €2; h10am-midnight) Also has phone booths & sells of the city onto a screen.
discount phone cards. The Museo de las Cortes de Cádiz (%956 22 17
Municipal tourist office (%956 24 10 01; Paseo de Ca- 88; Calle Santa Inés 9; admission free; h9am-1pm Tue-
nalejas s/n; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun) Sun, 5-7pm Tue-Fri Jun-Sep, 4-7pm Tue-Fri Oct-May) is
Regional tourist office (%956 20 31 91; Avenida full of historical memorabilia focusing on
Ramón de Carranza s/n; h9am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am- the 1812 parliament, including a marvellous
2pm Sat, Sun & holidays) large 1770s model of Cádiz, made for King
Carlos III. Along the street is the Oratorio de
Sights & Activities San Felipe Neri (%956 21 16 12; Plaza de San Felipe Neri;
PLAZA SAN JUAN DE DIOS & AROUND admission €2.50; h10am-1.30pm Mon-Sat), the church
Broad Plaza San Juan de Dios is lined with cafes where the Cortes de Cádiz met. This is one
and is dominated by the imposing neoclassical of Cádiz’s finest baroque churches, with a
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels C Á D I Z P R O V I N C E • • C á d i z 741

beautiful dome, an unusual oval interior and tities of alcohol, is infectious. Groups called
a Murillo Inmaculada on the altarpiece. murgas, in fantastic costumes, tour the city
on foot or on floats, singing witty satirical
MUSEO DE CÁDIZ ditties, dancing or performing sketches. In
Cádiz’s excellent major museum (%956 20 33 68; addition to the 300 or so officially recognised
Plaza de Mina; EU citizen/other free/€1.50; h2.30-8.30pm murgas, judged by a panel in the Gran Teatro
Tue, 9am-8.30pm Wed-Sat, 9.30am-2.30pm Sun) faces one Falla, there are also the ilegales – any group
of the city’s largest and leafiest squares. The that fancies taking to the streets and trying
stars of the ground-floor archaeology section to play or sing.
are two Phoenician marble sarcophagi, carved Some of the liveliest scenes are in the
in human likeness, and a monumental statue working-class Barrio de la Viña and on Calle
of the Roman emperor Trajan, from Baelo Ancha and Calle Columela, where ilegales
Claudia (p756). The fine arts collection up- tend to congregate.
stairs has 21 superb canvases by Francisco de Rooms in Cádiz get booked months in ad-
Zurbarán and the painting that cost Murillo vance for Carnaval, even though prices can
his life – the altarpiece from Cádiz’s Convento be double their summer rates. If you don’t
de Capuchinas. The baroque maestro died manage to snatch one, you could just visit for
from injuries received in a fall from scaffold- the night from anywhere else within striking
ing while working on this in 1682. distance. Plenty of other people do this.

COASTAL WALK Sleeping

This airy 4.5km walk takes at least 1¼ hours. Casa Caracol (%956 26 11 66; www.caracolcasa.com; Calle
Go north from Plaza de Mina to the city’s Suárez de Salazar 4; dm/hammock incl breakfast €16/10; i)
northern seafront, with views across the Bahía Casa Caracol is the only backpacker hostel in
de Cádiz. Head west along the Alameda gardens the old town. Friendly and crowded, it has

ANDALUCÍA
to the Baluarte de la Candelaria, then turn south- bunk dorms for four and eight, a communal
west to the Parque del Genovés, a semitropical kitchen, free internet and a roof terrace with
garden with waterfalls and quirkily clipped hammocks. It’s advisable to book through
trees. Continue to the Castillo de Santa Catalina www.hostelworld.com or www.hostelbookers
(%956 22 63 33; admission free; h10.30am-8.30pm, to .com as the hostel often fills up.
7.45pm Nov-Feb), built after the 1596 sacking; in- Hostal Fantoni (%956 28 27 04; www.hostalfantoni
side are an interesting historical exhibit on .net; Calle Flamenco 5; s/d €45/70; a) The Fantoni
Cádiz and the sea, and a gallery for exhibi- offers a dozen attractive and spotless rooms,
tions. Sandy Playa de la Caleta (very crowded all with air-con, in an attractively modernised
in summer) separates Santa Catalina from 18th-century house. The panoramic roof ter-
the 18th-century Castillo de San Sebastián. You race catches a breeze in summer.
can’t enter San Sebastián but do walk along Hostal Bahía (%956 25 90 61; Calle Plocia 5; s/d €60/76;
the breezy 750m causeway to its gate. Finally, nai) All rooms are exterior and impec-
follow the broad promenade along Campo del cably looked-after, and have phone, TV and
Sur to the cathedral. built-in wardrobes. It’s plain and straightfor-
ward but good value.
PLAYA DE LA VICTORIA Hotel Argantonio (%956 21 16 40; www.hotel
This lovely, wide ocean beach of fine Atlantic argantonio.com in Spanish; Calle Argantonio 3; s/d incl break-
sand stretches about 4km along the peninsula fast €74/101; ai) A very attractive small new
from its beginning 1.5km beyond the Puertas hotel in the old city with an appealing Mudéjar
de Tierra. At weekends in summer almost the accent to its decor. Staff are welcoming, and
whole city seems to be out here. Bus 1 (Plaza the rooms are comfortable with wi-fi access
España–Cortadura) from Plaza de España will and flat-screen TVs.
get you there. Parador Hotel Atlántico (%956 22 69 05; www
.parador.es; Avenida Duque de Nájera 9; s/d €110/137;
Festivals & Events pais) Cádiz’s modern parador is
No other Spanish city celebrates Carnaval comfortable and spacious, if architecturally
with the enthusiasm and originality of Cádiz, bland. All rooms have a terrace with a sea
where it turns into a 10-day party spanning view of some sort, and the pool sits in a lawn
two weekends. The fun, abetted by huge quan- overlooking the ocean.
 742 C Á D I Z P R O V I N C E • • C á d i z lonelyplanet.com

Hospedería Las Cortes de Cádiz (%956 21 26 68; Drinking

www.hotellascortes.com; Calle San Francisco 9; s/d incl breakfast In the old city the Plaza de Mina–Plaza San
€109/148; pai) This excellent hotel occupies Francisco–Plaza de España area is the main
a remodelled 1850s mansion. The 36 rooms, hub of the nocturnal bar scene; things start to
each themed around a figure, place or event as- get going around midnight at most places, but
sociated with the Cortes de Cádiz, sport classical can be quiet in the first half of the week.
furnishings and modern comforts. The hotel Medussa (cnr Calles Manuel Rancés & Beato Diego; www.
also has a roof terrace, Jacuzzi and small gym. medussa.com; hclosed Mon) Medussa is the late-
night magnet for an alternative and student
Eating crowd; red walls and banks of lime-green fluo-
Bar Zapata (Plaza Candelaria; montaditos €1.60-2, raciones rescent lighting set the tone. DJs vary, and
€10-12; hclosed Sun) The crowd often spills out there is occasional live music – from garage
the door at this highly popular tapas joint. The and funk to punk and indie-rock.
scrumptious montaditos (open sandwiches) Nahu (%856 07 90 22; Calle Beato Diego 8; hfrom
and revueltos (scrambled-egg dishes) are a 5pm) An African-themed music cafe that’s con-
speciality, and the jazz-rock-blues soundtrack sistently popular. DJs spin different rhythms
adds to the atmosphere. each night, from reggae or world to hip hop
Cafetería Las Nieves (% 956 26 12 55; Plaza or chillout.
Mendizábal 4; coffee & tostada €2; h7.45am-10pm Mon-Fri, Café de Levante (%956 22 02 27; www.cafelevante
9am-1.30pm Sat) Near Plaza San Juan de Dios, this .com; Calle Rosario 35; hfrom 8pm) A cosy little bar
cosy cafe with decor of brick, tile and prints is with an artsy and student clientele and walls
one of the city’s most inviting breakfast spots. adorned with all sorts of curious photos
Enjoy tostadas or molletes (soft toasted rolls) and posters.
with a big range of spreads. O’Connell’s (%956 22 49 61; Plaza San Francisco;
ANDALUCÍA

Mesón Cumbres Mayores (%956 21 32 70; Calle hfrom 1pm) A convivial, wood-panelled Irish
Zorrilla 4; tapas €1.50-2, mains €9-18) The wood- pub, O’Connell’s always has a good crowd.
beamed Cumbres Mayores has an excellent There’s rock music and sport on the TVs.
tapas bar in the front and a small restaurant El Teniente Seblon (%956 26 58 39; Calle Posadilla 4)
in the back. It’s hard to beat the ham and This arty, gay-friendly bar is one of the liveli-
cheese montaditos. In the restaurant, there est evening spots in the Barrio del Pópulo.
are great salads, seafood, barbecued meats The second hot spot is down Playa de la
and guisos (stews). Victoria, along Paseo Marítimo and nearby
El Aljibe (%956 26 66 56; www.pablogrosso.com; Calle in the Hotel Playa Victoria area, about 2.5km
Plocia 25; tapas €2-3.50, mains €10-15) Gaditano chef from the Puertas de Tierra. The hippest bars
Pablo Grosso concocts delicious combina- include glamorous Barabass (%856 07 90 26; www
tions of the traditional and the adventurous. .barabass.es; Calle General Muñoz Arenillas 4-6; admission incl
He stuffs his pheasant breast with dates and 1 drink €8; h6pm-6am).
his solomillo ibérico (Iberian pork sirloin) with
Emmental cheese, ham and piquant peppers. Entertainment
You can enjoy his creations as tapas in the Head out late, Thursday to Saturday, to Punta
stone-walled downstairs bar. de San Felipe (known as La Punta) on the
El Faro (%956 22 99 16; Calle San Félix 15; mains €15-25) northern side of the harbour. Here, a line of
Over in Barrio de la Viña, El Faro has a fa- disco bars and the big disco Sala Anfiteátro
mous and excellent seafood restaurant, deco- (Paseo Pascual Pery; admission €6-8) pack with an
rated with pretty ceramics, and an adjoining, 18-to-25 crowd from around 3am to 6am,
less-pricey, tapas bar. while El Malecón (%956 22 45 51; Paseo Pascual Pery;
Also recommended, La Gorda Te Da De Comer admission €8-10) is the place for salsa and gets
(tapas €2-2.40, media raciones €6) Luque (Calle General Luque 1; going a bit earlier, with free salsa classes at
h9-11.30pm Mon, 1.30-4pm & 9-11.30pm Tue-Sat); Rosario midnight Saturday.
(cnr Calles Rosario & Marqués de Valdeiñigo; h1-4pm & Peña Flamenca La Perla (%956 25 91 01; www
9-11.30pm Tue-Sat) has incredibly tasty food at .perladecadiz.com in Spanish; Calle Carlos Ollero s/n) The
low prices amid trendy pop design at both its cavernlike Peña La Perla hosts flamenco
locations. Try the solomillo in creamy mush- nights at 10pm on many Fridays in spring
room sauce or the curried chicken strips with and summer. Check with the tourist offices
Marie-Rose dip. for other flamenco events.
lonelyplanet.com C Á D I Z P R O V I N C E • • E l Pu e r t o d e S a n t a M a r í a 743

The Gran Teatro Falla (%956 22 08 34; Plaza de EL PUERTO DE SANTA MARÍA
Falla) and the Central Lechera (%956 22 06 28; Plaza pop 85,100
de Argüelles s/n) host busy and varied programs El Puerto, across the bay and 10km north-
of theatre, dance and music. east of Cádiz (22km by road), is one of Cádiz
province’s triangle of sherry-making towns
Getting There & Around and its excellent beaches, sherry bodegas and
BOAT tapas bars make it a fine outing from Cádiz
See p744 for details of the passenger fer- or Jerez. In summer it jumps with a series of
ries heading across the bay to El Puerto de festivals, and sevillanos and people from all
Santa María. round Cádiz province come to the coast for
a good time. El Puerto is easily and enjoyably
BUS reached by ferry from Cádiz.
Most buses are run by Comes (%956 80 70 59;
Plaza de la Hispanidad). Destinations include Seville Orientation & Information
(€10.65, 1¾ hours, 10 daily), El Puerto de Santa The heart of the town is on the northwestern
María (€1.85, 30 to 40 minutes, 19 or more bank of Río Guadalete. The ferry El Vapor ar-
daily), Jerez de la Frontera (€2.85, 40 minutes, rives at the Muelle del Vapor jetty, on Plaza de
nine or more daily), Tarifa (€7.91, two hours, las Galeras Reales. The train station is beside
five daily) and other places down the Cádiz the Jerez road on the northeast side of town,
coast, Arcos de la Frontera (€5.28, 1¼ hours, about 700m from Plaza de las Galeras Reales.
five daily Monday to Friday, two daily Saturday The good tourist office (%956 54 24 13; www
and Sunday), Ronda (€12.61, three hours, two .turismoelpuerto.com; Calle Luna 22; h10am-2pm & 6-8pm
daily), Málaga (€19.58, four hours, six daily) May-Sep, 10am-2pm & 5.30-7.30pm Oct-Apr) is 2½ blocks
and Granada (€27.90, five hours, four daily). straight ahead from the Muelle del Vapor.

ANDALUCÍA
Los Amarillos, from its stop by the south-
ern end of Avenida Ramón de Carranza, oper- Sights & Activities
ates up to four further daily buses to Arcos de The four-spouted Fuente de las Galeras Reales
la Frontera (€4.37, 1¼ hours) and El Bosque (Fountain of the Royal Galleys), by the
(€6.83, two hours), plus up to 13 daily to Muelle del Vapor, once supplied water to
Sanlúcar de Barrameda (€3, 1¼ hours). Some America-bound ships.
services go less often on Saturday and Sunday. The Castillo de San Marcos (%956 85 17 51; Plaza
Information is available at Viajes Socialtur Alfonso El Sabio 3; admission €5; h10.30am-1.30pm Thu
(%956 29 08 00; Avenida Ramón de Carranza 31). & Sat) is open for half-hour guided tours two
Secorbus (%956 25 74 15; Avenida José León de Carranza days a week, with a sampling of Caballero
20) runs three buses daily to Madrid (€22.30, sherry included (the company owns the cas-
eight hours). The stop is 3.6km southeast of tle). The castle’s highlight is the pre-13th-
the Puertas de Tierra – to reach it take city century mosque (now a church) preserved
bus 1 (€0.93) from Plaza de España to its inside. The Fundación Rafael Alberti (%956 85
last stop. 07 11; Calle Santo Domingo 25; admission €3; h11am-
2.30pm Tue-Sun), a few blocks further inland,
CAR & MOTORCYCLE has interesting exhibits on Rafael Alberti
The AP4 motorway from Seville to Puerto (1902–99), one of the great poets of Spain’s
Real on the eastern side of the Bahía de Cádiz ‘Generation of 27’, who grew up here. The
carries a €5.50 toll. The toll-free A4 is slower. exhibits are well displayed and audioguides
There’s a handily placed underground car park in English, German or Spanish (€2) are avail-
(Paseo de Canalejas; per 24hr €9) near the port area. able. El Puerto’s most splendid church, the
15th- to 18th-century Iglesia Mayor Prioral
TRAIN (h8.30am-12.45pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-noon Sat, 8.30am-
From the train station (%902 24 02 02) up to 36 1.45pm Sun, 6-8.30pm daily), dominates nearby
trains run daily to El Puerto de Santa María Plaza de España. Four blocks southwest from
(€2.35 to €2.90, 40 minutes) and Jerez de la there, the grand 19th-century Plaza de Toros
Frontera (€2.90 to €3.65, 50 minutes), up to 15 (Bullring; %956 54 15 78; Plaza Elías Ahuja; admission
to Seville (€9.80, two hours), three to Córdoba free; h11am-1.30pm & 5.30-7pm Tue-Sun) is one of
(€34 to €43, three hours) and two to Madrid the most celebrated in Spain. Top matadors
(€63, five hours). fight here every Sunday in July and August:
 744 C Á D I Z P R O V I N C E • • E l Pu e r t o d e S a n t a M a r í a Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

the ring is closed for visits the day before the specialities, but there are good choices for
and after fights. meat eaters too.
The best known of El Puerto’s seven sherry El Puerto has one of the best collections of
wineries, Osborne (%956 86 91 00; www.osborne.es in tapas bars of any town of its size in Andalucía.
Spanish; Calle Los Moros 7; tours in English/Spanish/German €6; The main streets to look in are the central
h10.30am, noon & 12.30pm Mon-Fri) and Terry (%956 Calle Luna; Calle Misericordia and Ribera del
15 15 00; Calle Toneleros 1; tours in English & Spanish €8; Marisco to its north; and Avenidas Bajamar
h10.30am & 12.30pm Mon-Thu), offer weekday tours and Aramburu de Mora to its south. Don’t
and sometimes add extra tours, including on miss Mesón Leonés (%956 85 96 36; Calle Luna 4; tapas
Saturday, in summer. For Osborne you need €1.50-2; hclosed Wed) for its cured meats and
to phone ahead; for Terry you don’t. cheeses; Cervecería El Puerto (%956 85 89 39; Calle
The nearest beach is pine-flanked Playa de la Luna 13; tapas €2; hclosed Thu) for seafood; Mesón
Puntilla, a half-hour walk from the centre – or del Asador (%956 54 03 27; tapas €2.20; Calle Misericordia
take bus 26 (€0.80) along Avenida Aramburu 2) for grilled meats; or the tightly packed Casa
de Mora. In high summer the beaches furthest Luis (%956 87 20 09; Ribera del Marisco s/n; tapas €3;
out, such as Playa Fuenterrabía, reached by bus hclosed Mon) with innovative concoctions like
35 from the centre, are least hectic. paté de cabracho (scorpion fish paté). Mesón
del Asador also has a sit-down restaurant with
Sleeping grilled meats for €11 to €18.
The tourist office’s accommodation list and
website helpfully highlight places with wheel- Getting There & Away
chair access. BOAT
Hostal Costa Luz (%956 05 47 01; www.hostalcostaluz The small ferry Adriano III, known as El Vapor
.com in Spanish; Calle Niño del Matadero 2; s/d €42.50/65; (%629 468014; www.vapordeelpuerto.com), a decades-old
pa) Friendly, modern hostal in the bullring symbol of El Puerto, sails to El Puerto (one-way/
ANDALUCÍA

vicinity with 11 nicely done, medium-sized return €3/4, 40 minutes) from Cádiz’s Estación
rooms and a cafe for breakfast. Marítima (Passenger Port) five or six times daily
Casa No 6 (%956 87 70 84; www.casano6.com; Calle San from early February to early December (except
Bartolomé 14; s/d/q incl breakfast €70/80/140; p) This Mondays from late September to late May). The
beautifully renovated 19th-century house faster Catamarán (€1.85, 25 min), operated by
provides a friendly welcome and charming, the public Consorcio de Transportes Bahía de Cádiz
spacious and spotless rooms. There’s usually a (%902 45 05 50; www.cmtbc.com), sails between Cádiz
three-night minimum stay in high summer. (Terminal Marítima, near the train station) and
Casa del Regidor Hotel (%956 87 73 33; www.hotelcasa El Puerto 18 times a day Monday to Friday,
delregidor.com; Ribera del Río 30; s/d €65/95; pnai) six times on Saturday and five on Sunday and
A converted 18th-century mansion with its holidays. In El Puerto, the Catamarán docks on
original patio. The excellent rooms have all the river 400m southwest (downstream) from
mod cons and solar-heated hot water. the Muelle del Vapor.
Hotel Monasterio San Miguel (%956 54 04 40; www
.hotelesjale.com; Calle Virgen de los Milagros 27; s/d €148/196; BUS
pas) A gourmet restaurant, a pool in a Buses run to Cádiz (€1.85, 30 to 40 minutes)
semi-tropical garden, and classically elegant from the Plaza de Toros (Bullring) about
rooms await your pleasure at this luxurious half-hourly, 6.45am to 10.30pm (7.15am to
converted 18th-century monastery. 8.30pm Saturday, 8.45am to 8.45pm Sunday).
For Jerez de la Frontera (€1.10, 20 minutes)
Eating there are nine to 17 daily buses from the train
Romerijo (%956 54 12 54; Plaza de la Herrería; seafood per station, plus six (Monday to Friday only) from
250g from €4.50) A huge, always busy El Puerto the bullring. Buses for Sanlúcar de Barrameda
institution, Romerijo has two buildings, one (€1.64, 30 minutes, five to 13 daily) depart
boiling the seafood, the other frying it. Choose from the bullring. Buses to Seville (€8.50, 1½
from the displays and buy by the quarter- hours, three daily) go from the train station.
kilogram in paper cones.
Casa Flores (%956 54 35 12; Ribera del Río 9; mains TRAIN
€20-30) For more formal dining, go for tile- Up to 36 trains travel daily to Jerez (€1.40,
bedecked Casa Flores. Fish and seafood are 15 minutes) and Cádiz (€2.35 to €2.90, 40
lonelyplanet.com C Á D I Z P R O V I N C E • • S a n l ú c a r d e B a r r a m e d a 745

minutes), and up to 15 daily to Seville (€8.20, home for the aristocratic Montpensier family
1½ hours). in the 19th century and is now Sanlúcar’s town
hall. A block to the left along Calle Caballeros
SANLÚCAR DE BARRAMEDA is the medieval Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la O
pop 67,000 (hmass 8pm Mon-Sat, 9am, noon & 8pm Sun), which
Sanlúcar, 23km northwest of El Puerto de stands out among Sanlúcar’s churches for its
Santa María, is the northern tip of the sherry beautiful Gothic Mudéjar main portal, created
triangle. It looks across the Guadalquivir es- in the 1360s, and the richness of its interior
tuary to the Parque Nacional de Doñana and decoration, including the Mudéjar artesonado
is one of the two starting points for 4WD ceilings. Next door is the Palacio de los Duques de
tours in the national park – the other is El Medina Sidonia (%956 36 01 61; www.fcmedinasidonia.
Acebuche (p735). com in Spanish; Plaza Condes de Niebla 1; tour €3; h11am &
Sanlúcar’s nautical history is proud. noon Sun), the rambling home of the aristocratic
Columbus sailed from Sanlúcar in 1498 on family that once owned more of Spain than
his third voyage to the Caribbean. So, in 1519, anyone else. The house, mostly dating to the
did the Portuguese Ferdinand Magellan, seek- 17th century, bursts with antiques and paint-
ing – as Columbus had – a westerly route to ings by Goya, Zurbarán and other famous
the Asian spice islands. Magellan succeeded, Spanish artists.
but was killed in the Philippines. His pilot, Some 200m further along the street, amid
Juan Sebastián Del Cano, completed the first buildings of the Barbadillo sherry company, is
circumnavigation of the globe by returning the 15th-century Castillo de Santiago (%956 08 83
to Sanlúcar in 1522 with just one of the five 29; Plaza del Castillo; tour €7; h10am-1pm Tue-Sat), recently
ships, the Vittoria. opened after many years of intermittent res-
toration work. There are great views from the
Orientation & Information hexagonal Torre del Homenaje (Keep).

ANDALUCÍA
Sanlúcar stretches 2.5km along the southeast-
ern side of the Guadalquivir estuary, fronted Tours
by a long, sandy beach. Calzada del Ejército SHERRY BODEGAS
(La Calzada), running inland from the sea- Sanlúcar produces a distinctive sherrylike
front Paseo Marítimo, is the main avenue. wine, manzanilla. Several bodegas give tours
A block beyond its inland end is Plaza del for which you don’t need to book ahead,
Cabildo, the central square. The bus station including these:
is on Avenida de la Estación, 100m southwest Barbadillo (%956 38 55 00; Calle Luis de Eguilaz 11;
of the middle of La Calzada. The multilingual tours €3; hin English 11am Tue-Sat, in Spanish noon &
and very helpful tourist office (%956 36 61 10; 1pm Tue-Sat) Near the castle, Barbadillo is the oldest &
www.turismosanlucar.com in Spanish; h10am-2pm & 6- biggest manzanilla firm. There’s also a good manzanilla
8pm Mon-Fri Jun-Oct, 10am-2pm & 4-6pm Mon-Fri Nov-Feb, museum (h10am-3pm Tue-Sat) here, which you can
10am-2pm & 5-7pm Mon-Fri Mar-May, 10am-12.45pm Sat & visit independently of the tour.
10am-2pm Sun all year) is on Calzada del Ejército. Hidalgo-La Gitana (%956 38 53 04; Calzada del
The old fishing quarter, Bajo de Guía, site Ejército; tours in English & Spanish €5; h11am & noon
of Sanlúcar’s best restaurants and boat de- Mon-Fri, noon Sat)
partures for the Parque Nacional de Doñana, Pedro Romero (%956 36 07 36; Calle Trasbolsa 84;
is 750m northeast from La Calzada. Here, tours €6; hin English & Spanish noon Mon-Sat, 6pm
the Centro de Visitantes Fábrica de Hielo (%956 38 Tue-Fri, in German 11am Wed & Fri, noon Mon) This bod-
65 77; www.parquenacionaldonana.es; h9am-8pm) pro- ega also holds 2½-hour tasting sessions (€20 per person)
vides displays and information on the Parque at noon on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday.
Nacional de Doñana.
PARQUE NACIONAL DE DOÑANA
Sights From Bajo de Guía, Viajes Doñana (%956 36
From Plaza del Cabildo, cross Calle Ancha to 25 40; Calle San Juan 20; tours per person €36; hoffice
Plaza San Roque and head up Calle Bretones, 9am-2pm & 5-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) and Viajes
which becomes Calle Cuesta de Belén and Correcaminos (%956 38 20 40; Calle Ramón y Cajal 4)
doglegs up to the Palacio de Orleans y Borbón (ad- operate 3½-hour tours into the national park,
mission free; h10am-2.30pm Mon-Fri), a beautiful neo- at 8.30am and 2.30pm on Tuesday and Friday
Mudéjar palace that was built as a summer (the afternoon trips go at 4.30pm from May
 746 C Á D I Z P R O V I N C E • • J e re z d e l a F r o n t e r a Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

to mid-September). After the river crossing, want your fish plancha (grilled) or frito (fried),
the trip is by 20-person 4WD vehicle, visit- and don’t skip the starters: langostinos (king
ing much the same spots as the tours from El prawns, €10) and coquines al ajillo (clams in
Acebuche. On the trip, either take mosquito garlic, €9) are specialities.
repellent or cover up. Casa Bigote (%956 36 26 96; Bajo de Guía 10; fish mains
€7-14; hclosed Sun) The food here gets excel-
Festivals & Events lent reviews from everyone. Do try the house
The Sanlúcar summer gets going with the speciality – hamburguesas de bacalao con salsa
Feria de la Manzanilla, in late May or early June, (codburgers with sauce; €8.50).
and blossoms in July and August with jazz, Cafetería Guzmán El Bueno (%956 36 01 61; Plaza
flamenco and classical-music festivals, one-off Condes de Niebla 1; dishes €3-8; h8.30am-9pm, to early
concerts by top Spanish bands, and Sanlúcar’s am Sat & Jul-Aug) Sink into plump cushions sur-
unique horse races, the Carreras de Caballo (www rounded by antique furnishings at the cafe in
.carrerassanlucar.es), in which thoroughbred race- the Palacio de los Duques de Medina Sidonia
horses thunder along the beach during two (p745). Fare is simple – omelettes, cheese, ham –
three-day evening meetings during August. but the setting is uniquely atmospheric.
Cafes and bars, many serving manzanilla
Sleeping from the barrel, surround Plaza del Cabildo
Book well ahead at holiday times. and Plaza San Roque behind it: Casa Balbino
Hostal La Bohemia (%956 36 95 99; Calle Don (Plaza del Cabildo 11; tapas €2-3) is a must for tapas.
Claudio 5; s/d €30/44; a) Pretty, folksy-painted
chairs dot the corridors of this little upstairs Entertainment
hostal, on a side street 300m northeast of There are some lively music bars on and
Plaza del Cabildo; rooms are neat, clean around Calzada del Ejército and Plaza del
and air-conditioned. Cabildo, and lots of concerts in summer.
ANDALUCÍA

Hotel Barrameda (%956 38 58 78; www.hotelbarra

meda.com; Calle Ancha 10; s/d incl breakfast €54/81; a) Getting There & Away
This new 30-room hotel is a welcome addi- Buses from Sanlúcar include services to El
tion. The ground-floor reception gives onto Puerto de Santa María (€1.64, 30 minutes,
a patio; rooms have stylish modern furnish- five to 12 daily), Cádiz (€3, 1¼ hours, five
ings, marble floors, framed art prints and wi-fi to 12 daily), Jerez de la Frontera (€1.68, 30
access, and there’s a roof terrace too. minutes, seven to 15 daily) and Seville (€7.06,
Hotel Posada de Palacio (%956 36 48 40; www 1½ hours, five to 10 daily).
.posadadepalacio.com; Calle Caballeros 11; s/d from €88/109;
pai) Sanlúcar’s most atmospheric lodg- JEREZ DE LA FRONTERA
ing is this rambling 18th-century mansion, pop 202,700
with pretty patios and terraces, plenty of Jerez (heh-reth), 36km northeast of Cádiz,
antiques, and rooms kitted out with period is a beguiling town with a uniquely eclectic
furnishings. Staff can be a little offhand. and intense character. Visitors come to see
Tartaneros Hotel (%956 38 53 93; www.hoteltartaneros its famous sherry bodegas, but Jerez is also
.com; Calle Tartaneros 8; s/d from €97/129; pa) A Andalucía’s horse capital and has a creative
century-old industrialist’s mansion with as- artistic and nightlife scene and a large gitano
sorted quirky artefacts and comfortable rooms, community that is one of the hotbeds of fla-
at the inland end of Calzada del Ejército. menco. It stages fantastic, showy, hedonistic
fiestas with sleek horses, beautiful people, fine
Eating food and drink and passionate music. Wealth
Spain holds few dreamier dining experi- and contemporary style rub shoulders here
ences than tucking into succulent seafood with poverty, tradition and history, and it all
while watching the sun go down over the adds up to an enthralling compound that can
Guadalquivir at Bajo de Guía. be a hard to get a handle on at first but bounti-
Restaurante Virgen del Carmen (%956 38 22 72; fully repays time taken getting to know it.
Bajo de Guía s/n; fish mains €9-15) This is one of the
best of several restaurants at Bajo de Guía. Orientation & Information
Dine on the downstairs terraza or in the The central axis of Jerez is Calle Larga and
upstairs dining room. Decide whether you Calle Lancería, pedestrianised streets lined
 0 400 m
JEREZ DE LA FRONTERA 0 0.2 miles

s
To Airport

nte
(7km)

C
br a
q C
Sa

Piz
ec

e A
To Real Escuela m lv a

arr
12 Andaluz del Arte Do ti e r INFORMATION SLEEPING

o
ra

ue d
la
Ecuestre (100m) ro Ciberjerez..................................1 C3 Hostal Las Palomas..................14 D4
va

C Q

Duq
Ál Municipal Tourist Office............2 C2 Hostal/Pensión San Andrés......15 D3

M uin

Av
Av
lonelyplanet.com

an ta
ld
C Post Office.................................3 C3 Hotel Ávila...............................16 D3

e
M C ez

ue na
C gu

Ferrado
l Rodri

erv
ar C Hotel Casa Grande.................. 17 D4
qu C

an
C Manue olete

Olivar
Pa an

la
Lu

te
és

s
SIGHTS &MACTIVITIES Hotel Chancillería.....................18 B2

CL
d is ul

vil

del
13 eC Pé

eal
Se
Alcázar.......................................4 B4 Hotel La Albarizuela.................19 D3

zo
ad CJ rez

as
íz ar

Po
C Martin
Antiguo Cabildo........................5 C3 Hotel Palacio Garvey............... 20 C3

C
CN

d inill
C Plaza de Bodegas Tradición......................6 A3 Nuevo Hotel............................21 C4

de

o
Gu go Toros
Cathedral...................................7 B4

Ca

in
ad co

o
C

m
C Cir

ñas
ale 35
Ta s te Plaza Centro Andaluz de Flamenco.....8 B2EATING

iag
Do
xd rre

nt
To Mamelon Iglesia de San Dionisio................9 C3Cruz Blanca..............................22 C3

ta
irt

Sa
n
de

e
n za Iglesia de San Miguel...............10 C4El Almacén...............................23 C3

Jua
Sa

sd
ua a go

C
a J

a
ar

s
nch C Museo Arqueológico................11 A3El Tabanco...............................24 C2

m
CA án CZ

eato

Ar
Plaza ait Sandeman................................12 C1La Carboná..............................25 D3

C
G
C B Grande
v a

C
e Iglesia Santiago Zoo Jerez..................................13 A1La Casa del Arroz.....................26 C3

cedore
C Nu de Santiago Plaza San Juan ría C La Reja.....................................27 C3
cille Po 37
ed Barrio de han rv C Rosario Mesón del Asador....................28 C3
erc CC

C Cono
M Santiago era
C Mesón El Patio.........................29 D3
o 18
ur Reino de León..........................30 C3

CP
CF
r a

al
n
M o

Alameda Cristina
al C lad
ma 8 nc
2 To Circuito Ristorante Bellaquio.................31 C4

ua
os 24
Sa

C
ist Plaza de la Permanente de
Cr C

nJ
Sa
C Merced l Plaza Rafel Velocidad (9km);

Sa
a DRINKING

icia
Arcos de la

C
rrizoas Rivero
C sa
C 20 Frontera (31km); Damajuana...............................32 B3
6 38 32

C
Seville (88km)

e
C Bizcocheros Dos Deditos.............................33 C4
11 Plaza de
C Juan
ad 26 La Carbonería..........................34 C3

iebr Just
San Lucas eD

nsario

no
36 i La Plaza de Canterbury............35 D2

CL
Plaza del s
os Plaza de
Mercado C Cabeza Plaza de Plateros 15

C Ho
Belén 39 Plaza 19
ENTERTAINMENT

C More
Romero Arcos
Martínez Av de Bereber.....................................36 B3
ado

C Cuatro Gatos...........................37 C2
ila
s Tir

Sa 9 Plaza de la 16

C Larga
tadero

eta
n Asunción El Lagá Tio Parrilla....................38 A3
lld iez
Jesú

C Av
ef C Sa LD CA 3 Sala Audrey..............................39 B3

C Le
5 1

C P ri
lv a d
C Ma

Bodegas on CJ lga
so or 34 40 C Teatro Villamarta.....................40 C3
a de

22 rve
i

Pedro Domecq o 23 29
n

trados
28
o

oy 27
CB Arboledilla C San F

CC
Arr Plaza ran

ía
C l Plaza od CM 25 TRANSPORT
a
Vargas
Ant

de ega
s de P cisco

ce r

ons
Pu 30 edi
n a

n
e da 33
Estévez C Doña 14 a ula
as

vor Bus Station...............................41 E4

La
rta lza Bla

isto
r
C
CM

uer

de Ca 31 io n ca CE
R 7

C
ig

ota
z Plaza del 17
CH

ále Arenal CC
nz orre
Go d CC

ín
ía era art
ar 4
Plaza de las C L u ja

ust
M 21 Angustias evant
e

Ag
z

Bodegas

anu
Ca
ue

Train
o

González Byass
ba
CD
ll
ns

Station
ñ ig

C M el
ieg

C San
10
er
oF
ari

To Bodegas González
os
ern
Alo

CP
Byass Entrance (200m); Plaza San ánd
o

orv ez H
CM

El Puerto de Santa Maria (14km); Miguel e erre 41

edr

nir ra
Sanlúcar de Barrameda (22km);
CP

Cádiz (36km)
C Á D I Z P R O V I N C E • • J e re z d e l a F r o n t e r a 747

ANDALUCÍA
 748 C Á D I Z P R O V I N C E • • J e re z d e l a F r o n t e r a lonelyplanet.com

with shops and cafes, running between is at the heart of the Seville–Cádiz axis where
Alameda Cristina in the north and Plaza del flamenco originated. This centre is a kind of
Arenal in the south. The old quarters of town flamenco museum, library and school, with a
lie to the west of the central axis. There are different flamenco video screened each day.
plenty of banks and ATMs on and around Try not to miss what is arguably Jerez’s
Calle Larga. loveliest church, the 15th/16th-century Gothic
Ciberjerez (Calle Santa María 3, internet per hr €1.80; Iglesia de San Miguel (Plaza San Miguel; hMass 8pm
h10am-10.30pm Mon-Sat Oct-Apr, 10am-2.30pm & Mon-Sat, 9am, noon & 8pm Sun), just southeast of
5.30-11pm Mon-Sat May-Sep, 5-10pm Sun) Plaza del Arenal.
Municipal tourist office (%956 33 88 74; www.turis
mojerez.com; Alameda Cristina; h9am-3pm & 5-6.30pm SHERRY BODEGAS
Mon-Fri, 9.30am-2.30pm Sat & Sun) Expert multilingual Jerez is home to around 20 bodegas and
staff and comprehensive website. most are open to visits, but they’re scat-
Provincial Tourist Office (%956 18 68 08; Airport; tered around town and many of them re-
h8.15am-2pm & 5-6.30pm Mon-Fri) quire you to call ahead. The tourist office has
up-to-date information.
Sights Bodegas González Byass (%902 44 00 77; www
OLD QUARTER .bodegastiopepe.com; Calle Manuel María González 12; tour
The obvious place to start a tour of old Jerez is €10; h11am-6pm) is home of the Tio Pepe brand
the 11th- or 12th-century Almohad fortress, and one of the biggest sherry houses, handily
the Alcázar (%956 35 01 33; Alameda Vieja; admission located just west of the Alcázar. Six or seven
incl/excl camera obscura €5.40/3; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, tours each are given daily in English and
10am-3pm Sun 16 Sep-30 Apr; 10am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am- Spanish, and a few in German and French.
3pm Sun 1 May-15 Sep). Inside there’s a beautiful Sandeman (%956 31 29 95; www.sandeman.eu; Calle
Pizarro 10; tour €6; h11am-2.15pm Mon, Wed & Fri, 10.15am-
ANDALUCÍA

mezquita (mosque), converted to a chapel by

Alfonso X in 1264, an impressive set of Baños 2.15pm Tue & Thu) has three or four tours each in
Árabes (Arab Baths) and the 18th-century English, Spanish and German, one in French.
Palacio Villavicencio. In the palace’s tower a Another interesting bodega is Bodegas Tradición
camera obscura provides a live panorama of (%956 16 86 28; www.bodegastradicion.com; Plaza Cordobeses
Jerez, with multilingual commentary. Sessions 3; h9am-2pm & 4.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri) – not only for its
begin every half-hour until 30 minutes before extra-aged sherries (20 or more years old) but
closing time. also because it houses the Colección Joaquín
The orange tree–lined promenade around Rivera, a private Spanish art collection that
the Alcázar overlooks the mainly 18th-century includes important works by Goya, Velázquez
cathedral (h11.30am-1pm & 6.30-8pm Mon-Sat, Mass and Zurbarán. Tours of the collection are given
11.30am, 1.30pm, 7.30pm & 9pm Sun), built on the site three or four times a day.
of Scheris’ main mosque.
A couple of blocks northeast of the cathe- REAL ESCUELA ANDALUZA DEL ARTE
dral is Plaza de la Asunción, with the hand- ECUESTRE
some 16th-century Antiguo Cabildo (Old Town The famed Royal Andalucian School of Equestrian
Hall) and lovely 15th-century Mudéjar Iglesia Art (%956 31 80 08; www.realescuela.org; Avenida Duque de
de San Dionisio. Abrantes; c) trains horses and riders in eques-
Northwest of here is the Barrio de Santiago, trian skills, and you can watch them going
with a sizeable gitano population. The excellent through their paces in training sessions (admission
Museo Arqueológico (Archaeological Museum; %956 35 adult/child €10/6; h11am-1pm Mon, Wed & Fri Sep-Jul, Mon
01 33; Plaza del Mercado) here was closed for exten- & Wed Aug). There’s an official exhibición (show;
sion works at research time but should have admission adult/child €24/15, hnoon Tue & Thu Sep-Jul,
reopened by the end of 2008. Its impressive noon Tue, Thu & Fri Aug), where the handsome white
collection of local finds spans the millennia horses show off their tricks to classical music.
from the stone age to medieval times, with a You can book tickets online – advisable for the
7th-century-BC Greek helmet, found in Río official shows, which can sell out.
Guadalete, among the highlights. Also in this
area is the Centro Andaluz de Flamenco (Andalucian ZOO JEREZ
Flamenco Centre; %956 34 92 65; http://caf.cica.es in Spanish; Only 1km northwest of the centre, Jerez’s zoo
Plaza San Juan 1; admission free; h9am-2pm Mon-Fri). Jerez (%956 14 97 85; www.zoobotanicojerez.com; Calle Taxdirt
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels C Á D I Z P R O V I N C E • • J e re z d e l a F r o n t e r a 749

s/n; adult/child €9/6; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun May-Sep, 10am- run hotel provides comfortable rooms with
8pm Tue-sun Jun-Aug; c) houses 1300 beasts and TV and winter heating. Most rooms are plain,
has well-established gardens and a recupera- with the glorious exception of the spectacular
tion centre for wild animals. Muslim-style stucco work in No 208. It’s best
to book ahead.
Festivals & Events Hotel Casa Grande (%956 34 50 70; www.casagrande
Jerez has a big calendar of festive events. These .com.es; Plaza de las Angustias 3; s €75, d €97-105; ai)
are the biggest highlights: This hotel occupies a carefully restored and
Festival de Jerez (www.festivaldejerez.es in Spanish) strikingly decorated 1920s mansion centred
Late February/early March – Jerez’s biggest celebration of on a bright patio. Rooms vary in style, and
flamenco. there’s a great roof terrace. The breakfasts
Motorcycle Grand Prix Usually March, April or May – (€9) are special too.
Jerez’s Circuito Permanente de Velocidad (Racing Hotel Chancillería (%956 30 10 38; www.hotelchancil
Circuit; %956 15 11 00; www.circuitodejerez.com), on leria.com; Calle Chancillería 21; s/d incl breakfast €65/90;
the A382 10km east of town, hosts several motorcycle and ai) This 14-room hotel in the atmospheric
car-racing events each year, including one of the Grand Barrio de Santiago is a great addition to Jerez’s
Prix races of the World Motorcycle Championship. accommodation. Full of lovely original crafts,
Feria del Caballo Late April or first half of May – Jerez’s it has many eco-friendly touches including
week-long Horse Fair is one of Andalucía’s biggest festivals, solar water heating and grey-water recycling.
with music, dance and bullfights as well as all kinds of It’s also extremely well set up for wheelchair
equestrian competitions and parades. users. The hotel’s restaurant, Sabores (%956
Fiestas de la Vendimia September – The two-week 32 98 35), has a prize-winning young chef;
Grape-Harvest Festivals involve the traditional treading of mains cost €14 to €18 and include a good
the first grapes on Plaza de la Asunción. vege selection.
Hotel Palacio Garvey (%956 32 67 00; www.sfera

ANDALUCÍA
Sleeping hoteles.net; Calle Tornería 24; s/d €224/293; pais)
Many places almost double their rates for the The Garvey is a sensational conversion of
Motorcycle Grand Prix and Feria del Caballo, the 19th-century neoclassical palace of one
and you need to book ahead. of Jerez’s sherry families. The 16 rooms
Hostal/Pensión San Andrés (%956 34 09 83; www are superluxurious.
.hotelsanandres.es in Spanish; Calle Moreno 12; s €22-26, d
€30-40; a) The friendly San Andrés has three Eating
pretty, plant-filled patios and a range of rooms The sherry trade has introduced English and
including economical shared-bath options. French accents into the local cuisine. Jerez also
The hotel section is cosier than the pensión. prizes its cured and grilled meats and fish.
Hostal Las Palomas (%956 34 37 73; www.hostal La Casa del Arroz (%956 34 85 12; Calle Francos 10;
-las-palomas.com; Calle Higueras 17; s with/without bath- mains €9-14; v) This polished restaurant spe-
room €25/20 d with/without bathroom €35/30) A faint cialises in very well-prepared paella and other
Moroccan theme, touches of art, earthy col- rice dishes, with some creative touches.
ours and a good roof terrace are among the Mesón El Patio (%956 34 07 36; Calle San Francisco
pluses of this recently revamped hostal. de Paula 7; mains €8-17; hclosed Sun evening & Mon)
Hotel Ávila (%956 33 48 08; www.hotelavila.com; Calle Convivial yet a touch refined, El Patio serves
Ávila 3; s/d €43/64; nai) A friendly welcome terrific fish and meat dishes.
and comfy, well-kept if unexciting rooms La Carboná (%956 34 74 75; Calle San Francísco de
make this hotel on a quiet side street an Paula 2; mains €10-16; hclosed Tue) This popular,
excellent deal. cavernous restaurant, with an eccentric menu
Hotel La Albarizuela (%956 34 68 62; www.hotel and young waitstaff, occupies a wood-beamed
albarizuela.com; Calle Honsario 6; s/d €106/149; pa) A former tavern. Specialities include charcoal-
contemporary place popular with an under- grilled Cantabrian meats and fresh fish.
30s crowd. Deep discounts (often around Ristorante Bellaquio (%956 34 40 03; Plaza Monti
60% from mid-October to mid-April) are 12; mains €10-18; hclosed Sun evening & Mon) For a
frequently offered, so email or phone for the change from Jerez’s staple meat and fish, head
best deals. to this stylish Italian joint near the Alcázar,
Nuevo Hotel (%956 33 16 00; www.nuevohotel.com; with original compositions like cannelloni
Calle Caballeros 23; s/d €35/50; a) This popular, family- with prawns and wild mushrooms.
 750 C Á D I Z P R O V I N C E • • J e re z d e l a F r o n t e r a lonelyplanet.com

Central Jerez is littered with great tapas patios, rooms and bars, some open to the sky.
bars. The pedestrian streets just north of Plaza The flamenco show at 9pm (€70) includes
del Arenal are a fine place to start. Head for dinner and drinks.
the cavelike El Almacén (%956 18 71 43; Calle Latorre Teatro Villamarta (%956 35 02 72; www.villamarta
8; tapas €3; h1-4pm Thu & Fri, 8.30pm-1.30am daily; v) .com; Plaza Romero Martínez) Stages a busy program
or Reino de León (%956 32 29 15; Calle Latorre 8; tapas of music, dance and drama.
€3) next door. Close by, Cruz Blanca (%956 32 45 Cuatro Gatos (Calle Santa Rosa 10; h9pm-late Mon-
35; Plaza de la Yerva; tapas €1.80/3) whips up good fish, Sat) For more informal musical nights, try
egg, meat and salad offerings and has tables on this club where the almost-nightly live music
a quiet little plaza. Busy Mesón del Asador (%956 ranges from world music to Beatles covers
32 26 58; Calle Remedios 2; tapas €2.15) is tops for grilled and jam sessions.
meats and also has a sit-down restaurant sec- Sala Audrey (%956 34 04 11; www.salaaudrey.com;
tion. Atmospheric La Reja (Calle Mesones 6; tapas Calle Carmen 22; h10pm-late Wed-Sat) This hip little
€1.80; h8pm-11pm or later) offers 32 varieties of venue is dedicated to Audrey Hepburn, and
tasty filled rolls called enrejados. has DJs spinning house, funk or reggae.
About 500m north, further brilliant tapas
bars surround little Plaza Rafael Rivero. Head Getting There & Around
here at lunchtime or after 9.30pm. Don’t miss AIR
the montaditos (mini toasted rolls) at El Tabanco Jerez airport (%956 15 00 00), 7km northeast of
(%956 33 44 20; tapas €2-2.50). town on the NIV, is increasingly busy with
flights from European cities and has at least
Drinking six car rental offices. Ryanair (%956 15 01 52)
A few bars in the narrow streets north of flies here daily from London Stansted, and
Plaza del Arenal can get lively with an under- a variety of airlines come from Amsterdam,
30 crowd: try beer bar Dos Deditos (Plaza Vargas Brussels, Paris and several German airports.
ANDALUCÍA

1) and wine bar La Carbonería (Calle Letrados 7). Iberia (%902 40 05 00), Vueling (%902 33 39 33) and
Damajuana (%956 32 04 64; www.damajuanacafebar Spanair (%956 15 01 30) fly direct from Madrid
.com; Calle Francos 18; h4.30pm-3am Tue-Sun) has a and Barcelona.
studenty, artsy vibe, with exhibitions and
occasional live music. BUS
Northeast of the centre, La Plaza de A useful airport bus service runs 16 times
Canterbury has bars around a central daily (six times on Saturday and Sunday)
courtyard that attract a 20s clientele, while from the airport to Jerez bus station (€0.95,
music bars northeast on Avenida de Méjico 30 minutes), with three services daily continu-
are the late-night headquarters for the ing to El Puerto de Santa María train station
18–25 crowd. (from the airport €1.10, 50 minutes) and six
or more to Cádiz’s Comes bus station (€2.85,
Entertainment 1¼ hours).
The tourist office is very helpful with what’s- Jerez’s bus station (%956 33 91 61; Plaza de
on information; also visit www.turismojerez la Estación) is 1.3km southeast of the centre.
.com and look out for posters. Several peñas Destinations include Seville (€7.20, 1¼ hours,
flamencas (flamenco clubs) welcome genu- 11 or more daily), Sanlúcar de Barrameda
inely interested visitors: ask at the tourist (€1.68, 30 minutes, seven or more daily), El
office about events. Puerto de Santa María (€1.10, 20 minutes, 15
El Lagá Tio Parrilla (%956 33 83 34; Plaza del Mercado; or more daily), Cádiz (€2.85, 40 minutes, nine
show & 2 drinks €18; h10.30pm Mon-Sat) The best of or more daily), Arcos de la Frontera (€2.40, 45
the places staging regular flamenco shows. minutes, 13 or more daily), El Bosque (€5.20,
The emphasis is on the more upbeat styles two hours, three or more daily) and Ronda
such as bulería, but this is still the genuine (€19.50, 2½ hours, three daily).
article with gutsy performers.
Bereber (%956 34 00 16; www.tablaodelbereber TRAIN
.com; Calle Cabezas 10; h4.30pm-late) An amazing Jerez train station (%956 34 23 19; Plaza de la Estación)
reformed palace in the Barrio de San Mateo, is beside the bus station, with up to 36 daily
mixing noble and Islamic style with several trains to El Puerto de Santa María (€1.40,
lonelyplanet.com C Á D I Z P R O V I N C E • • A r c o s d e l a F r o n t e r a 751

15 minutes) and Cádiz (€2.90 to €3.65, 50 main square. There’s also a tourist information
minutes), and 10 or more to Seville (€6.50 to kiosk (Paseo de Andalucía).
€16.80, 1¼ hours). Banks and ATMs are along Calle Debajo
del Corral and Calle Corredera.
ARCOS DE LA FRONTERA
pop 29,900 / elev 185m Sights
Bathed in burning white light the walled, hill- The old town is a delight to get lost in with
top town of Arcos, 30km east of Jerez, could every turn revealing something new. The cen-
not be more thrillingly sited: it perches on tre of this quarter is the Plaza del Cabildo.
a high, unassailable ridge with sheer preci- The square itself has been somewhat spoilt
pices plummeting away on both sides. Always by being turned into a car park, but the
prized for its strategic position, Arcos was surrounding fine old buildings and a ver-
briefly, during the 11th century, an inde- tiginous mirador (lookout) with views over
pendent Berber-ruled kingdom before being Río Guadalete make up for a lot. The 11th-
absorbed by Seville, then Christian Alfonso X century Castillo de los Duques is firmly closed
took the town in 1255. When the last Duque de to the public. On the plaza’s northern side is
Arcos died in 1780, his cousin, the Duquesa de the Gothic-cum-baroque Basíllica-Parroquia
Benavente, took over his lands. With her help, de Santa María, which was closed for renova-
agriculture around Arcos diversified and more tions at the time of research. On the eastern
profitable crops and horse breeding replaced side, the Parador Casa del Corregidor hotel (see
sheep farming. p752) is a reconstruction of a 16th-century
Arcos’ charm today lies in exploring the magistrate’s house. From the gate leading
mazelike upper town with its whitewashed onto the mirador you can get all high-tech
houses and spectacular setting. and put yourself live on the internet for

ANDALUCÍA
your friends to see! See the sign on the gate
Orientation & Information for instructions.
From the bus station it’s a 1.5km uphill walk Along the streets east of here, take time
to the old town. Paseo de los Boliches and to seek out lovely buildings such as the
Calle Debajo del Corral (becoming Calle Iglesia de San Pedro (Calle Núñez de Prado; admission
Corredera) both lead east up to the old town’s €1; h10am-1pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, to 1.30pm Sun), an-
main square, Plaza del Cabildo. other Gothic baroque confection, and the
The tourist office (%956 70 22 64; Plaza del Cabildo; 17th-century Palacio Mayorazgo, now a com-
h10am-2.30pm & 5.30-8pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-1.30pm & munity building, with a Renaissance facade
5-7pm Sat, 10.30am-1.30pm Sun) is on the old town’s and pretty patios.
0 200 m
ARCOS DE LA FRONTERA 0 0.1 miles

CC
C

a
Al

To Jerez de la C mino
ta

Frontera (30km) Gr d
z V ázquez 3 C Deba
j an e Las
Av M u ñ o Plaza de o del C ad Nie To El Bosque
Pa s ía España Pas orra illo ves
eo de Andaluc eo l s (33km)
de Los C Tras
los Mo
Av Bo CC lino
Du orr s C Jeró
New qu ed nimo
lic

ed era 11 ez a
Town
h

eA g H ernández Pu
es

15 s rco CB ert L
di

ore 1 oliche aC a P
ón

s
Al h C

id ar m e
rreg s C C Cru z Marí a on ñ a
o de Cu Bernal
CC e
Be st
a Vi
ej
C
SLEEPING C Mlén a C D Crist ó Old Town a
ure a eánE ba lC
INFORMATION Hostal San Marcos.........................9 D2 te spino olón C Marques de
Post Office...............................1 C1 Hotel El Convento........................10 D2 sa 13 Torresoto
Cjón
C l a d
Tourist Office.......................... 2 D2 Hotel Marques de Torresoto........(see 9) Nu s Mon e Plaza de C M
5 eva jas
Tourist-Information Kiosk.........3 B1 Hotel Real de Veas.......................11 C1 Boticas
ate

Plaza del
Parador Casa del Corregidor........12 D2 L a 2 4 9
oG

14
P C Bo Cananeo
on z

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Pensíon Callegón de las Monjas...13 D2 eñ tica ále

a 7 12 s C z
Basílica-Parroquia de N 10 C Mal d
NúPrad o
e

Santa María......................... 4 D2 EATING ue Plaza del do 8

ñ ez

va Cabildo
na

Castillo de los Duques..............5 C2 Mesón Don Fernando..................14 D2

do

Iglesia de San Pedro.................6 D2 C Marqu 6 C

CW

es de Pe Sa
Torreso dr
Mirador...................................7 D2 TRANSPORT to
ald o

nad
o

Palacio Mayorazgo..................8 D2 Bus Station...................................15 A1 o

 752 C Á D I Z P R O V I N C E • • Pa r q u e N a t u r a l S i e r r a d e G r a z a l e m a Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

Tours old-town maze, Mesón Don Fernando has

One-hour guided tours (€7) of the old town’s a lively Spanish atmosphere. You can enjoy
monuments and pretty patios start from the treats like rabbit stew and deer steaks while
tourist office at 11am Monday to Friday. sitting on an outside table relishing the
evening breeze.
Festivals & Events
Semana Santa Holy Week processions through the Getting There & Away
narrow old streets are dramatic; on Easter Sunday there’s a Services from the bus station (%956 70 49 77;
hair-raising running of the bulls. Calle Corregidores) run to Jerez (€2.55, 45 minutes,
Fiesta de la Virgen de las Nieves Three-day festival 12–15 daily), Cádiz (€5.59, 1¼ hours, 5
in early August includes a top-class flamenco night in Plaza daily), El Bosque (€2.55, one hour, 7 daily),
del Cabildo. Ronda (€8.14, two hours, 3 daily) and Seville
Feria de San Miguel Arcos celebrates its patron saint, (€7.45, two hours, 2 daily). Frequencies to
San Miguel, with a four-day fair at the end of September. some destinations are reduced on Saturday
and Sunday.
Sleeping & Eating
Pensíon Callegón de las Monjas (%956 70 23 02; Calle PARQUE NATURAL SIERRA DE
Deán Espinosa 4; s/d from €25/35; a) A great value GRAZALEMA
budget base. Some of the rooms have little bal- The mountains of the Parque Natural Sierra de
conies with massive views to the plains below. Grazalema rise abruptly off the plains north-
Room rates are negotiable if times are slow. east of Cádiz in a rugged mess of peaks and
Hostal San Marcos (%956 70 07 21; Calle Marqués rocky pillars. It’s one of Andalucía’s green-
de Torresoto 6; s/d €35/45; a) A simple old-town est areas with a landscape of pastoral river
hostal, there are four pretty rooms and a roof valleys and precipitous gorges. This is fine
ANDALUCÍA

terrace. The attached restaurant is a delight walking country (the best months are May,
of wrinkled old characters. June, September and October), and there are
oHotel Real de Veas (%956 71 73 70; www opportunities for climbing, caving, canyon-
.hotelrealdeveas.com; Calle Corredera 12; s/d €48/55; ai) ing, kayaking and paragliding.
A superb option inside a lovingly restored The park extends into northwestern Málaga
building. The dozen or so rooms are arranged province, where it includes the Cueva de la
around a glass-covered patio and are cool Pileta (p784). Useful walking guides include
and comfortable. It’s one of the few places Walking in Andalucía by Guy Hunter-
that has easy car access. The price includes a Watts and Eight Walks from Grazalema by
decent breakfast. RE Bradshaw. Editorial Alpina’s Sierra de
Hotel El Convento (%956 70 23 33; www.hotelcon Grazalema (1:25,000) is the map pick.
vento.es; Calle Maldonado 2; s/d with breakfast from €55/70;
ai) The nuns who used to live in this beau- El Bosque
tiful, former 17th-century convent obviously pop 2000 / elev 385m
appreciated a good view. Now it’s been turned El Bosque, 33km east of Arcos across rolling
into a slightly chintzy hotel. country, might be prettily situated, but the
Hotel Marques de Torresoto (%956 70 07 17; www village itself is a modern (though not unat-
.hotelmarquesdtorresoto.com; Calle Marqués de Torresoto 4; tractive) service centre from which to organise
s/d €55/75; a) The jungle-like inner courtyard trips to the parque natural. A pleasant 5km
is the numero uno attraction of this central riverside path to Benamahoma starts beside
hotel. Rooms are plain and some have an El Bosque’s youth hostel.
odd layout. The natural park’s Centro de Visitantes El
Parador Casa del Corregidor (%956 70 05 00; Bosque (% 956 72 70 29; www.cma.jnta.andalucia
www.parador.es; Plaza del Cabildo; r from €128; ai) .es; Avenida de la Diputación s/n; h10am-2pm & 6-8pm
The highlight of this parador hotel is the Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm & to 8pm Sat, 9am-2pm Sun, afternoons
courtyard restaurant full of palm trees and Oct-Mar 4-6pm Mon-Sat), with limited displays and
tinkling water. Rooms are comfortable but information on the park, is off the A372 at the
not plush. western end of town.
Mesón Don Fernando (% 956 71 73 26; Calle There are several casa rurals (village or
Boticas 5; mains €9-11, hclosed Mon) Up in the farmstead accommodation) in and around
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels C Á D I Z P R O V I N C E • • Pa r q u e N a t u r a l S i e r r a d e G r a z a l e m a 753

GRAZALEMA RESERVE AREA WALKS

Three of the Sierra de Grazalema’s best day walks are the ascent of El Torreón (1654m), the
highest peak in Cádiz province; the route from Grazalema to Benamahoma via Spain’s best-
preserved pinsapar (woodland of the rare Spanish fir); and the trip into the Garganta Verde, a
deep ravine south of Zahara de la Sierra, with a large colony of griffon vultures. All these walks
are within a 38-sq-km reserve area with restricted access, meaning that to do any of them you
must obtain a (free) permit from the El Bosque visitors centre (opposite). You can call or visit
El Bosque up to 15 days in advance for this and, if you wish, it will fax permits to be collected
at the Zahara information office (p754) or Grazalema tourist office (below). Staff might speak
only Spanish. It’s normally necessary to book ahead only for walking on a weekend or public
holiday. Authorised local guide companies such as Horizon (below) and Al-qutun (p754) will
guide you on these walks, but you can also do them on your own with a decent map and map-
reading skills. Do-it-yourselfers should obtain a decent map such as Editorial Alpina’s Sierra de
Grazalema (1:25,000), which is available locally and includes a walking guide booklet in English
and Spanish. The entire park is closed to independent travellers between 1 July and the middle
of October due to the high fire risk. To visit at this time of year (when it’s probably too hot to
be enjoyable anyway) a guide from an authorised company is obligatory – though even then
the Torreón route is out of bounds.

the village that the tourist office can point Horizon (%/fax 956 13 23 63; www.horizonaventura.com;
you towards. Otherwise the following all get Calle Corrales Terceros 29) is a highly experienced ad-
our vote of approval. venture firm that will take you climbing, bun-
Near the park information office, Hotel gee jumping, canyoning, caving, paragliding

ANDALUCÍA
Enrique Calvillo (%956 71 61 05; Avenida Diputación 5; or walking, with English-speaking guides.
s/d €35/50; ai) has tasteful rooms featuring If you’re hanging around for a while, and
large walk-in showers and exposed wooden you’ll want too, then look out for the very
roof beams. The popular restaurant is full of useful What to See and Do in Grazalema (€2),
gently swaying, hanging hams. Hotel Las Truchas which is available at many hotels.
(%956 71 60 61; www.tugasa.com/index2.htm; Avenida
Diputación s/n; s/d €35/59; ap) offers rooms that SLEEPING & EATING
are a bit staid but some have nice views, and Casa de las Piedras (%/fax 956 13 20 14; www.casa
the clincher, on hot summer afternoons, is its delaspiedras.net; Calle Las Piedras 32; s with/without bath-
inviting pool. room €35/13, d with/without bathroom €48/25; ai)
Casa Calvillo (%956 71 60 10; Avenida Diputación s/n; It’s hard to find fault with this well-run hotel.
mains €9-12) is a very popular lunch spot, espe- Rooms are pretty perfect and the geranium-
cially at weekends when local families pile in clad patio even more so. The common areas
for some pleasing countryside tastes. often play host to small art exhibitions.
Hotel Peñón Grande (%956 13 24 34; www.hotelgra
Grazalema zalema.com; Plaza Pequeña 7; s/d €36/53; a) A small,
pop 2240 / elev 825m friendly hotel with functional rooms just off
For good reason Grazalema is the most popu- Plaza de España.
lar travellers’ base in the sierra: the red-roofed oLa Mejorana (%956 13 23 27; www.la
village, hunched up under an enormous shaft mejorana.net; Calle Santa Clara 6; r incl breakfast €52; is)
of rock, is so pretty it looks like it’s from a This is the sort of dreamy hotel you’d choose
fairy tale. Local products include pure wool for a romantic weekend break. There are only
blankets and rugs. five rooms, all of which are full of Spanish
The village centre is the pretty Plaza de charm, and a very tempting pool hidden under
España, overlooked by the 18th-century a cover of shady green plants. It’s tucked away
Iglesia de la Aurora. Here you’ll find the tour- at the top of the village.
ist office (%956 13 20 73; h10am-2pm & 4-9pm), with Mesón El Simancón (% 956 13 24 21; Plaza
a shop selling local products. Two banks on Asomaderos; mains €6-15, menú €12.90; hclosed Tue)
Plaza de España have ATMs. There are plenty of places to eat and drink
 754 C Á D I Z P R O V I N C E • • S o u t h e r n C o s t a d e l a Lu z Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

around Plaza de España and on Calle Agua. and Arcos (€2.55, one hour, 11 daily). From
The Simancón, right by the car park, serves El Bosque, buses leave for Grazalema (€2.10,
well-prepared ham, beef, quail, venison, wild 30 minutes) at 3.30pm Monday to Saturday.
boar and revueltos. Grazalema to El Bosque buses depart at
5.30am Monday to Friday and 7pm Friday.
Zahara de la Sierra There’s no bus service between Zahara and
pop 1600 / elev 550m Grazalema.
Topped by a crag with a ruined castle, Zahara
is the most dramatically sited of the area’s SOUTHERN COSTA DE LA LUZ
villages. The 18km drive from Grazalema via The 90km coast between Cádiz and Tarifa
the vertiginous 1331m Puerto de los Palomas is Andalucía’s finest, and miraculously mass
(Doves’ Pass) is otherworldly and full of spec- tourism development has no more than a
tacular switchbacks. The village centres on toehold here. Apart from the relatively large
Calle San Juan, where you’ll find the natural towns of Conil de la Frontera and Barbate,
park’s helpful Punto de Información Zahara de la most of the scattered settlements are still
Sierra (%/fax 956 12 31 14; Plaza del Rey 3; h9am-2pm beach villages. The coast can be windy,
& 4-7pm). and its Atlantic waters are cooler than the
Zahara’s streets invite investigation, with Mediterranean, but these are small prices to
vistas framed by tall palms and hot-pink pay for a wild stretch of coastline where you
bougainvillea. To climb to the 12th-century can enjoy a host of water- and land-based
castle keep, take the path almost opposite the activities. Andalucian holidaymakers swarm
Hotel Arco de la Villa – it’s a steady 10- to in with a fiesta atmosphere in July and August
15-minute climb. The castle’s recapture from and on other holidays from spring to autumn
the Christians by Abu al-Hasan of Granada, (phone ahead for rooms at these times), and
in a night raid in 1481, provoked the Catholic
ANDALUCÍA

a growing number of foreigners are choosing

Monarchs to launch the last phase of the to settle here.
Reconquista, which ended with the fall
of Granada. Vejer de la Frontera
Adventure-tourism firm Al-qutun (%956 pop 12,800 / elev 190m
13 78 82; www.al-qutun.com), in Algodonales, This ancient white town looms mysteriously
7km north of Zahara, organises canyoning, atop a rocky hill above the busy N340, 50km
guided walks, kayaking, paragliding, caving from Cádiz. A quaint labyrinth of twisting old
and climbing. Get in touch for the schedule. streets, it has experienced a minor influx of
Another memorable way of seeing the Sierra is foreign residents, some of whom have set up
from the saddle of a horse. Riders can arrange boutique hotels. There’s an eclectic bunch of
tours through Rutas a Caballo Santiago (%608 restaurants too. Buses stop beside the tourist
840376; www.zaharadelasier ra.info/caballos). office (%956 45 17 36; www.turismovejer.com; Avenida Los
Accommodation options include Hostal Remedios 2; h10am-2pm daily, 6-8pm Mon-Sat approx May-
Marqués de Zahara (%/fax 956 12 30 61; www.marque Oct), about 500m below the town centre. Also
sdezahara.com; Calle San Juan 3; r incl breakfast €50; a), a here is a convenient large, free car park.
rambling old place in the village centre whose Vejer’s much-reworked castle (admission free;
rooms have seen better days. The 17 rooms at happrox 10am-9pm Jun-Sep) has great views from
modern Hotel Arco de la Villa (%956 12 32 30; www its battlements. Its erratically open small mu-
.tugasa.com; Paseo Nazarí s/n; s/d €35/59; pa), which seum preserves one of the black cloaks that
is partially built into the rock face, have jaw- Vejer women wore until just a couple of dec-
dropping views but little rural character. ades ago (covering everything but the eyes).
Restaurante Los Naranjos (%956 12 33 14; Calle San When the castle is not open, you can still visit
Juan 12; mains €8-12; h9am-11pm) serves hearty hill- it on daily one-hour guided walks (in English/Spanish
country platefuls both indoors and outside €4/3; hnoon & 7pm) from the tourist office.
under the orange trees. It’s often the only place
with any sign of life in the entire village! SLEEPING & EATING
Hostal La Janda (%956 45 01 42; Calle Machado s/n;
Getting There & Around s/d €40/50; pa) A friendly, economical and
Los Amarillos (%902 21 03 17) runs buses to El impeccably clean place. Some of the 36 rooms
Bosque from Jerez (€5.60, two hours, six daily) afford town vistas, and there’s a restaurant.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels C Á D I Z P R O V I N C E • • S o u t h e r n C o s t a d e l a Lu z 755

La Botica de Vejer (%956 45 02 25: www.labotica Surf 9 Pies (%620 104241; www.9piesescueladesurf.com
devejer.com; Calle Canalejas 13; s/d incl breakfast €80/90; in Spanish; board & wetsuit rental per 2/4hr €12/18, classes
a) La Botica offers appealingly bright and 2/4hr €27/52), open all year towards the north
colourful rooms set around a patio where end of the beach. Trafalgar Surf (%666 942849;
breakfast is served. There’s a roof terrace www.trafalgarsurftrip.com; beginners’ classes 1½/4½hr
with rural views. €40/105) offers classes in English at the area’s
Hotel La Casa del Califa (%956 44 77 30; www best surfing beach on the day, with free pick-
.lacasadelcalifa.com; Plaza de España 16; s €60-98, d €79- up anywhere along the coast from Los Caños
115, incl breakfast; ai) Rambling over several to La Barrosa.
floors, this gorgeous hotel oozes character.
Rooms are peaceful and very comfortable, SLEEPING
with Islamic decorative touches. It also has a Hostal Mini-Golf (%956 43 70 83; Avenida Trafalgar
superb Middle Eastern restaurant, El Jardín del 251; www.hostalminigolf.com; s/d €50/70; pa) This
Califa (mains €8-16; v). budget place opposite the Cabo de Trafalgar
Restaurante Trafalgar (%956 44 76 38; Plaza de turn-off has fresh, clean rooms, with TV and
España 31; mains €11-18) The Trafalgar has some winter heating, around a simple Spanish
tables outside on Vejer’s happening plaza, and patio. There’s a cafe and, yes, minigolf in the
prepares typical Cádiz fish, seafood and meat front garden.
with a contemporary flourish. Casas Karen (%956 43 70 67; www.casaskaren.com;
Camino del Monte 6; d per 2 nights €190-290, per week €520-
GETTING THERE & AWAY 825, q per 2 nights €330-470, per week €935-1470; p) This
From Avenida Los Remedios, buses run to eccentric gem has nine different studios, bun-
Cádiz (€4.53, 50 minutes) five or six times a galows and chozas (traditional thatched dwell-
day. Buses for Tarifa (€3.71, 45 minutes, 10 ings) each with a kitchen, lounge, outdoor
sitting area and casual andaluz–Moroccan

ANDALUCÍA
daily), Algeciras (€5.84, 1¼ hours, 10 daily),
Jerez de la Frontera (€5.88, 1½ hours, two decor. It’s about 500m off the main road, well
daily), Málaga (€16, 2¾ hours, two daily) and signposted 500m east of Cabo de Trafalgar.
Seville (€12.59, 2¼ hours, four daily) stop at Hotel Madreselva (%956 43 72 55; www.madreselva
La Barca de Vejer, on the N340 at the bottom hotel.com; Avenida Trafalgar 102; s/d incl breakfast €79/96;
of the hill. It’s a steep 20-minute walk up to hclosed Nov-Feb; pas) The 18 rooms at
town from there. this artistically designed place have their
own garden-patios. There’s a good pool, and
Los Caños de Meca mountain biking, horse riding, massages and
pop 200 surfing can be arranged.
The superchilled beach village of Los Caños Sajorami Beach (%956 43 74 24; www.sajoramibeach
straggles along a series of spectacular open .com; Playa de Zahora; r €98-168; p) Rooms, apart-
beaches southwest of Vejer. Once a hippie ments and studios around beachfront gar-
hideaway, Los Caños still has a highly alter- dens at Zahora, 2km northwest of the main
native, hedonistic scene especially in sum- part of Los Caños (turn off the main road by
mer. Out of season, it’s often very sleepy. Camping Caños de Meca). There’s a popu-
Windsurfing, kitesurfing, surfing, horse rid- lar restaurant here too (closed mid-October
ing and hikes in the nearby Parque Natural de to mid-February).
la Breña y Marismas de Barbate are all among For further accommodation options check
the activities you can pursue here. www.playasdetrafalgar.com or www.placerde
At the western end of Los Caños a side trafalgar.com.
road leads out to a lighthouse on an unre-
markable spit of land with a famous name – EATING
Cabo de Trafalgar, which marks the site of the La Pequeña Lulu (%956 43 73 55; Avenida Trafalgar 2;
eponymous battle in 1805. Wonderful beaches dishes €6-15) This funky French-run cafe-bar at
stretch either side of Cabo de Trafalgar. the far eastern end of the village serves excel-
Some 5km along the coast northwest of lent light meals from crêpes to couscous on
Los Caños, the long beach at El Palmar has a lovely terrace.
Andalucía’s best board-surfing waves from Bar Saboy (%956 43 71 38; Carril de Mangueta, Zahora;
about October to May. Several places rent dishes €10-15) The Saboy, 300m from the main
boards and give surfing classes: try Escuela de road about 3km northwest of Los Caños, with
 756 C Á D I Z P R O V I N C E • • S o u t h e r n C o s t a d e l a Lu z Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

a spacious thatched roof and fireplace, serves adult/tent/car €7/5.50/4.50, bungalow €120) Good treed
up good snacks and meals of the fish, seafood camping ground fronting the beach at the
and meat variety. southern end of Zahara.
Restaurante El Caña (%956 43 73 98; Avenida Hotels Almadraba & Almadrabeta (%956 43 92
Trafalgar s/n; mains €9-13; hEaster-Sep, closed Wed Easter- 74; www.hotelesalmadraba.es; Calle María Luisa 13 & 15; s/d
Jun & Sep) This has a super position atop the Almadraba €65/80, Almadrabeta €45/70; pa) These
small cliff above the eastern part of Los Caños two neighbouring hotels, under one manage-
beach. Lots of fish and seafood. ment, provide 25 simple but pleasing rooms
Restaurante Trafalgar (%956 43 71 21; Avenida Trafalgar with TV and winter heating. The restaurant
86; mains €10-23; hApr-Sep, closed lunch Mon-Fri Apr-20 Jun) here, specialising in fish and meat, is one of
A high-standard restaurant that has a summer the best in town.
patio and serves creative Mediterranean cuisine. Hotel Doña Lola (%956 43 90 09; www.donalolazahara
Internet facilities out the back. .com; Plaza Thompson 1; r €100-160; pas) At the
entrance to town but only two minutes from
DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT the beach, this modern hotel has rooms in an
Good bars include Los Castillejos (hEaster-Oct) old-fashioned style and lovely grounds.
towards the eastern end of Avenida Trafalgar Hotel Gran Sol (%956 43 93 09; www.gransolhotel.com;
and Ketama (hMar-Dec). Open year-round are Avenida de la Playa s/n; r incl breakfast €107-145; pas)
superrelaxed Las Dunas on the road out to Cabo The Gran Sol occupies the prime beach spot.
de Trafalgar, and Bar Saboy and La Pequeña Lulu Its large, bright, comfortable rooms all come
(see p755), both often hosting live music of with balconies.
various kinds from about midnight. All these Most restaurants in the old part are on or
places stay open till 2 or 3am. near Plaza de Tamarón, near Hotel Doña Lola,
and most offer similar andaluz fare.
Restaurante La Jabega (%956 43 94 42; Calle
ANDALUCÍA

GETTING THERE & AWAY

Monday to Friday, there are two Comes buses Tomillo 7; raciones €10-13, mains €9-30) Just back from
to/from Cádiz (€5, 1¼ hours) to El Palmar the beach north of the Hotel Gran Sol, the
(€4.53, 1¼ hours) and Los Caños (€4.99, Jabega is acclaimed for its seafood espe-
1½ hours). There’s also one morning bus, cially its scrumptious albóndigas de choco
Monday to Friday, running between Vejer (cuttlefish fishballs).
and both places. There may be extra services
from Cádiz and even Seville from mid-June ENTERTAINMENT
to early September. In July and August the beachfront bars get
pretty lively from about midnight. Some have
Zahara de los Atunes live flamenco or other music.
pop 1200
Sitting in the middle of a broad, 12km, sandy GETTING THERE & AWAY
beach, Zahara is an elemental place. At its Comes runs up to three daily buses to and
heart stands the crumbling old Castillo de from Cádiz (€6.55, two hours) via Vejer de la
las Almadrabas, once a refuge against pirate Frontera and Barbate, and one to/from Tarifa
attacks and a depot for the local tuna fishers. (€3.24, 40 minutes). There are usually extra
Today the nearest tuna fleet is at Barbate, services mid-June to September.
and Zahara has become a fashionable Spanish
summer resort, with more of a family am- Bolonia
bience than Los Caños de Meca. There’s an pop 125
old-fashioned core of narrow streets around This village, hidden on a beautiful bay about
the ruined castle. The southern end of town, 20km up the coast from Tarifa, has a long
known as Atlanterra, is being developed white-sand beach and the ruins of the most
somewhat unsympathetically, but the pristine complete Roman town yet uncovered in Spain:
beaches and walking trails beyond Atlanterra Baelo Claudia (%956 10 67 97; adult/EU citizen €1.50/free;
are well worth exploring. h10am-8pm Tue-Sat Jun-Sep, 10am-7pm Tue-Sat Mar-May
& Oct, 10am-6pm Tue-Sat Nov-Feb, 10am-2pm Sun & holidays).
SLEEPING & EATING The ruins include a theatre where plays are
Camping Bahía de la Plata (%956 43 90 40; www still sometimes staged, a market, forum, tem-
.campingbahiadelaplata.com; Carretera de Atlanterra; sites per ples, and workshops that turned out the prod-
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels C Á D I Z P R O V I N C E • • Ta r i f a 757

ucts that made Baelo Claudia famous in the chilled bars and clubs, and quite a party scene,
Roman world: salted fish and garum, a prized especially in summer.
condiment made from fish entrails. There’s a Add the setting of a quaint, whitewashed
good recently opened museum too. old town, stunning white-sand beaches, views
You can walk up the big sand dune at the far of Morocco, and rolling green countryside,
end of the beach, or out to Punta Camarinal, and you’ll understand why for a growing
the headland protecting the west end of the number of people Tarifa has a magic unique
bay. You can also walk 8km along the coast in Spain. To boot, it’s one of the best places
to or from Ensenada de Valdevaqueros (p758) in Europe for watching not just birds but also
via Punta Paloma. dolphins and whales. The only negative can be
the wind, which can be ruinous for a relaxed
SLEEPING & EATING sit on the beach and tiring if you’re simply
Many places at Bolonia open only seasonally wandering around. August, however, can be
but the following are open all year. blessedly still.
La Posada de Lola (%956 68 85 36; www.hostallola Tarifa takes its name from Tariq ibn Malik,
.com; El Lentiscal 26; r with shared/private bathroom €45/55; who led a Muslim raid in 710, the year before
p) Friendly Lola’s pretty garden is flower- the main Islamic invasion of the peninsula.
filled and the rooms are simple but attractive.
There’s a Moroccan-inspired sitting area too. Orientation
Follow the signs on giant surfboards to find Two roads head into the town of Tarifa from
it. A seven-night minimum is required for the N340. The one from the northwest be-
reservations in July and August. comes Calle Batalla del Salado, which is lined
Apartamentos Isabel (%956 68 85 69; El Lentiscal with surf shops and kite schools and ends at
6; apt €80-110; p) Isabel, right on the beach, Avenida de Andalucía, where the Puerta de
provides six bright, well-fitted, one- and two- Jerez leads through the walls into the old town.

ANDALUCÍA
bedroom apartments, all with kitchen. The one from the northeast becomes Calle
La Hormiga Voladora (%956 68 85 62; El Lentiscal 15; r Amador de los Ríos, meeting Calle Batalla
€70-83, apt for 3 €105; p) Extending back from the del Salado in front of the Puerta de Jerez. The
seafront, the ‘Flying Ant’ is a lovable warren main street of the old town is Calle Sancho IV
of simple but carefully decorated rooms and El Bravo. To the southwest of town protrudes
apartments, set around various courtyards. the Isla de las Palomas, a military-occupied
Las Rejas (%956 68 85 46; El Lentiscal 8; salad €7, promontory that is the southernmost point
paella per person €12) The fish and seafood here of continental Europe. Northwest of Tarifa
are terrific, and the waiters willingly suggest stretches 10km of spectacular beach compris-
the day’s best options. ing Playa de los Lances and its continuations
as far as the bay Ensenada de Valdevaqueros.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
A hilly 7km side road to Bolonia heads west Information
off the N340, 15km from Tarifa. A couple of Centro de Salud (Health Centre; %956 02 70 00; Calle
local buses run daily from Tarifa to Bolonia Amador de los Ríos) Has emergency service.
in July and August only. Times and stops are Pandora (Calle Sancho IV El Bravo 13A; internet per hr €2;
changeable: check with Tarifa tourist office. h10am-2.30pm & 5-9.30pm)
Policía Local (%956 61 21 74; Ayuntamiento, Plaza de
TARIFA Santa María)
pop17,200 Tourist office (%956 68 09 93; www.aytotarifa.com
Set at mainland Spain’s southernmost tip, in Spanish; Paseo de la Alameda; h10am-2pm daily,
Tarifa has grown in two decades from a 4-6pm Mon-Fri Oct-May, 6-8pm Mon-Fri Jun-Sep)
down-at-heel coastal town into Europe’s
hip kitesurfing and windsurfing capital. The Sights
near-constant levante (easterly) or poniente A wander round the old town’s narrow
(westerly) winds blowing through the Strait streets, of mainly Islamic origin, is a must.
of Gibraltar create ideal conditions for these The Mudéjar Puerta de Jerez was built after the
sports. A creative international scene has Reconquista. Look in at the bustling market
grown up around the surf activities, result- (Calle Colón) before wending your way to the
ing in some original lodgings, eclectic eateries, mainly 15th-century Iglesia de San Mateo (Calle
 758 C Á D I Z P R O V I N C E • • Ta r i f a lonelyplanet.com

0 200 m
TARIFA 0 0.1 miles

To Tarifa Max (200m & 10km); Comes Bus Station (250m); To N340 (1km);
To Serengueti Algeciras (24km)
(1km) ral ra C Mar Adriático (500m); Souk (800m); Café del Mar (1.3km);
ne ive N340 (1.5km); Banti (2.3km); Hotel Dos Mares (4.5km);
Ge R
C o de Arte Vida Hotel (5.7km); Hurricane Hotel (6km); Estación
m Ornitológica de Tarifa (6.5km); Hotel Dulce Nombre (8km);
Pri

C
o Explora (9km); Ensenada de Valdevaqueros (10km)
lla

Ba
Ca

ta
C 8

lla
1

de

C
X III

lS

O
sa Jua
n

ala

tu
olo

m
eT C

d
les

ba
sd pi
va Ar
a
Na C
Plaza de C
Toros ra
au
M
C R íos
los Ca
21 de lza
C

or
C
d illa
Sa

ad
Sa
n

de

n
Am do
Se

Jo
28 le Te
én C To

sé
bas

los lle
ail 12 C Si nia z
B nto
tián

C C A
22 Nu aría
es C M 16
t ra s
Se pon
INFORMATION cía lar l Co

C Indencia
C Co
15 Plaza ño e
31 lu r ast era

C Mpen-
Centro de Salud...............................1 D1 da San Plaza en
CC

de
An CG

ad
9
lón

e Martín San

C P rtés
Pandora...........................................2 C3

aría
d

el
Co Luz
Av Hiscio 7

edro
a
5 e Molina

C Co
Policía Local.....................................3 D3 14

d
20
Post Office.......................................4 D3 24

rone
10
C Donato
Av

Tourist Office...................................5 C2 17 2

lM
C Sancho IV
cil 19 26 co
Gra Paseo 25
de

cis 4

El Bravo

oscardó
no de la ran 18
nF
la

ia
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES urr Alameda C Sa
CT
Co

Ayuntamiento................................(see 3)
C S
nst

o
Castillo de Guzmán..........................6 C3 23 en
Bu
it

ant
ució

firmm...............................................7 C2 el
án Plaza da
ísim

aran
n

Hot Stick...........................................8 B1 27
zm de Santa C Alj
a Tr

Gu
ANDALUCÍA

Iglesia de San Mateo........................9 D2 María 11

eg as C
ini

Market...........................................10 C3 Art 29 3 nel

da

C C María Coro
d

Mirador El Estrecho........................11 D3 6
erta R oj
a
Puerta de Jerez...............................12 C2 C Hu ey ruz 13
Turmares........................................13 C3 de R CC
Whale Watch España.....................14 B2 ñez
Nú
esa

an
inu

oV Ju 30
SLEEPING C Marian To Playa Chica (70m);
e
ald

Isla de las Palomas Strait of

Hostal Africa..................................15 C2
Alc

(400m) Gibraltar
La Estrella de Tarifa........................16 C2
Av

Melting Pot....................................17 B3
Posada La Sacristía.........................18 C3
Posada Vagamundos......................19 C3 DRINKING SHOPPING
Bar Misiana....................................24 C3 Tarfa.............................................. 28 C2
EATING Bistro Point.....................................25 C3
Bodega La Casa Amarilla................20 D2 La Ruina.......................................(see 27)
Port TRANSPORT
Café Azul.......................................21 C2 Mezcla................ ...........................
26 C3 Bus Stop for Northwestern Beaches..29 C3
Chilimoso.......................................22 C2 Soul Café.......................................27 C3 Estación Marítima.......................... 30 C4
La Trattoria....................................23 C3 Taco Way....................................(see 27) FRS.................................................31 B2

Sancho IV El Bravo; h9am-1pm & 5.30-8.30pm). South of Activities

the church, the Mirador El Estrecho, atop part of BEACHES
the castle walls, has spectacular views across On the isthmus leading out to Isla de las
to Africa, only 14km away. Palomas, Playa Chica is sheltered but very small
The Castillo de Guzmán (Calle Guzmán El Bueno) is indeed. From here the spectacular Playa de los
named after the Reconquista hero Guzmán Lances stretches northwest to the huge sand
El Bueno. In 1294, when threatened with the dune at Ensenada de Valdevaqueros.
death of his captured son unless he surren-
dered the castle to attacking Islamic forces, El KITESURFING & WINDSURFING
Bueno threw down his own dagger for the deed Most of the action occurs along the coast
to be done. Guzmán’s descendants became the between Tarifa and Punta Paloma, 11km
Duques de Medina Sidonia, one of Spain’s northwest. The best spots depend on the
most powerful families. The imposing fortress day’s winds and tides: El Porro on Ensenada
was closed for refurbishment at research time. de Valdevaqueros is one of the most popular,
It may be open by 2009: ask the tourist office. with easy parking. Both wind- and kitesurf-
It was originally built in 960 on the orders of ing are practised year round, but the biggest
Cordoban caliph Abd ar-Rahman III. season is from about April to October.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels C Á D I Z P R O V I N C E • • Ta r i f a 759

Tarifa now has around 30 kitesurf and firmm (%956 62 70 08; www.firmm.org; Calle Pedro
windsurf schools, many of them with offices Cortés 4; hMar-Oct) Uses every trip to record data.
or shops along Calle Batalla del Salado or on Turmares (%956 68 07 41; www.turmares.com; Ave-
Calle Mar Adriático. Others are based along nida Alcalde Juan Núñez 3; hJan-Nov) Has the largest
the coast. Many rent and sell equipment. It’s boats (one with a glass bottom), holding 40 & 60 people.
essential for kitesurfing beginners to take Whale Watch España (%956 62 70 13; www.whale
classes. An eight-hour beginners’ course in watchtarifa.net; Avenida de la Constitución 6; hApr-Oct)
groups of up to four, usually over two days,
costs around €200 including equipment. Full BIRDWATCHING
equipment rental is around €80 for one day. From March to May and August to October,
Two-hour windsurfing classes in groups of if the levante is blowing or there’s little wind,
up to four are around €50; board-and-sail the Tarifa area, including the spectacular
rental for two/four hours is around €45/60, or Mirador del Estrecho lookout point, is great
€60/75 if you need a wetsuit and harness too. for watching bird migrations across the Strait
Some experienced, recommended schools: of Gibraltar. The volunteer-staffed Estación
Spin Out/Adrenalina Valdevaqueros (%956 23 63 Ornitológica de Tarifa (%639 859350; cocn.tarifainfo.
52; www.tarifaspinout.com; El Porro Beach, Ensenada de com; N340 Km78.5; h5-9pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun),
Valdevaqueros, N340 Km75) Windsurf and kitesurf. 5km northwest of town, provides lots of
Club Mistral (www.club-mistral.com) Hurricane (%956 information on the area’s birds. Andalucian
68 90 98; Hurricane Hotel, N340 Km78) Valdevaqueros Guides (%956 43 23 16; www.andalucianguides.com)
(%619 340913; Cortijo Valdevaqueros, Ensenada de leads recommended birdwatching outings
Valdevaqueros, N340 Km75) Windsurf and kitesurf. in the area.
Tarifa Max (%696 558227; www.tarifamax.net) Town
(O’Neill shop, Calle Tinto 1); N340 (Hotel Copacabana, N340 Sleeping
Km75) Kitesurf.

ANDALUCÍA
High season is typically from the beginning
Hot Stick Town (%956 68 04 19; www.hotsticktarifa of July to mid-September, and it’s essential to
.com; Calle Batalla del Salado 41) Offers six-hr kitesurf phone ahead in August.
courses with lower rates; windsurf classes too.
IN TOWN
HORSE RIDING Melting Pot (%956 68 29 06; www.meltingpothostels.com;
On Playa de los Lances, Aventura Ecuestre Calle Turriano Gracil 5; dm €22-25, d €54, incl breakfast; i)
(%956 23 66 32; www.aventuraecuestre.com; Hotel Dos The Melting Pot is a friendly, well-equipped
Mares, N340 Km79.5) and Hurricane Hípica (%646 hostel just off the Alameda. The five dorms,
964279; Hurricane Hotel, N340 Km78) both rent well- for five to eight people, have bunks and there’s
kept horses with excellent guides. An hour’s one for women only. A good kitchen adjoins
beach ride costs €30. Three- or four-hour the cosy bar-lounge, and all guests get their
inland rides are €70. own keys.
Hostal Africa (%956 68 02 20; hostal_africa@hotmail
WHALE-WATCHING .com; Calle María Antonia Toledo 12; s with/without bathroom
The Strait of Gibraltar is a top site for view- €50/35, d with/without bathroom €65/50; hclosed 24 Dec-31
ing whales and dolphins. Killer whales visit Jan) The well-travelled owners of this revamped
in July and August, huge sperm and fin house know just what travellers need. Rooms
whales lurk here from spring to autumn, and are attractive and there’s an expansive terrace
pilot whales and three types of dolphin stay with wonderful views. Short-term storage for
all year. Several organisations in Tarifa run boards, bicycles and baggage available.
daily two- to 2½-hour boat trips to observe La Estrella de Tarifa (%956 68 19 85; www.laestrella
these marine mammals, and most offer a free detarifa.com in Spanish; Calle San Rosendo 2; r €75-110, ste
second trip if you don’t at least see dolphins. €120-145, incl breakfast) Full of intriguing nooks
Most trips cost €27/18 for over/under 14 and crannies, this comfortable small hotel
years; special 3½-hour killer-whale trips in in an old townhouse rambles up and down
July and August are around €40/30. At holi- over four floors with Moroccan decor in
day times you may need to book two or three soothing blue and white.
days ahead. If the strait is too rough, the boats Posada Vagamundos (%956 68 15 13; Calle San
may head for the Bahía de Algeciras with its Francisco 18; www.posadavagamundos.com; s/d/ste incl
groups of dolphins. breakfast €91/102/123) Right in the centre in a
 760 C Á D I Z P R O V I N C E • • Ta r i f a Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

carefully restored 18th-century convent has large rooms, two pools, two restaurants
building, Vagamundos has 11 exotic rooms and on-site riding stables and a kitesurf and
with African-Asian-Islamic decor and a windsurf school. The buffet breakfast is prob-
wi-fi-equipped cafe. ably the best you’ll ever have.
Posada La Sacristía (%956 68 17 59; www.lasacristia Hotel Dos Mares (%956 68 40 35; www.dosmares
.net; Calle San Donato 8; r incl breakfast €115-135) Tarifa’s hotel.com; N340 Km79.5; r or bungalow incl breakfast €175-
most elegant accommodation is in a beau- 195; pais) On the beach about 4.5km
tifully renovated 17th-century townhouse. from Tarifa, Islamic-themed Dos Mares offers
The 10 white rooms have some lovely details. rooms and bungalows outside. The bar, with
There’s a new in-house massage and therapy views to Africa, is a popular hang-out, and
centre too. It also offers 10 other rooms, there’s a good beachside chiringuito (small,
suites and apartments scattered around the open-air bar) too. The hotel also boasts ten-
old town. nis and paddle courts, a gym and its own
stables.
ALONG THE COAST
Six year-round camping grounds (www.campingsde Eating
tarifa.com in Spanish), with room for more than Tarifa tempts your tastebuds with a great array
4000 campers, and several, mostly expen- of international cuisines.
sive, hotels are dotted along the beach and Café Azul (Calle Batalla del Salado 8; breakfast €3.50-
on and near the N340 within 10km northwest 5; h9am-3pm) This little Italian-owned place
of Tarifa. packs ’em in every day for Tarifa’s best break-
Hotel Dulce Nombre (%956 68 53 44; www.hotel fasts. The muesli, fruit salad and yogurt is
dulcenombre.com; N340 Km76.1; r or apt incl breakfast large and tasty, or choose one of the excellent
€122-159; pas) Set 300m inland from the crepes. There’s good coffee, juices and shakes,
ANDALUCÍA

N340, 8km northwest of town, the Dulce plus bocadillos (filled rolls) and cakes.
Nombre still enjoys sea views and provides Chilimoso (%956 68 50 92; Calle Peso 6; dishes €4-6;
good-sized, fairly plain rooms. There’s an v) This tiny place serves tasty vegan and
excellent pool, and prices drop considerably vegetarian food with oriental leanings. Try the
outside August. falafel with hummus, tzatziki and salad.
Arte Vida Hotel (%956 68 52 46; www.hotelartevida Souk (%956 62 70 65; Calle Mar Tirreno 46; dishes €8-15;
tarifa.com; N340 Km79.3; s/d incl breakfast €120/140; p) hfrom 8pm Wed-Mon v) In the unlikely residen-
The stylish Arte Vida, just over 5km from the tial setting north of town, Souk serves terrific
town centre, combines attractive, medium- Moroccan- and Asian-inspired food. There’s
sized rooms with an excellent restaurant that a bright upstairs bar for drinks too.
has stunning views. Its grassy garden opens La Trattoria (%956 68 22 25; Paseo de la Alameda; pasta
right on to the beach. & pizza €7-11, mains €14-18.50) The Alameda is lined
Hurricane Hotel (%956 68 49 19; www.hotelhurricane with restaurants and cafes. First-class food and
.com; N340 Km78; r incl breakfast land/ocean side €162/178; efficient service make La Trattoria one of the
pas) This classy Moroccan-style hotel, best and busiest Italian eateries in town.
6km from town, is the place to go if you’re Miramar (%956 68 52 46; Arte Vida Hotel, N340 Km79.3;
feeling flush. Set in semitropical gardens, it mains €8-18) The Miramar’s chefs whip up a

SHOPPING TARIFA
Tarifa’s a great place to shop. The streets of the old town are dotted with jewellery, contemporary
fashion and curio shops. Stroll along Calle Batalla del Salado to find countless surf shops and
boutiques offering casual fashion and beachwear. Surf brands such as Rick Shapes, No Work Team
and El Niño are well-known names in Spain, and most were founded in Tarifa. Rip Curl, Billabong
and Quiksilver are also represented.
A few stores sell groovy homewares and even furniture. Tarfa (%956 62 70 63; Calle Batalla
del Salado 13) is excellent for gifts. Some warehouse-like stores on the N340 northwest of town
stock anything from thatch-roofed Balinese platform shelters (around €6000) to chair-shaped
hammocks – check Explora (%956 68 91 32; N340 Km76.2), which also offers beach volleyball and
a chillout zone.
lonelyplanet.com C Á D I Z P R O V I N C E • • A l g e c i r a s 761

range of pasta, meat and fish dishes – and

the expansive beach and ocean views double TOP 10 ANDALUCIAN BEACHES
your enjoyment.
„ Ensenada de Valdevaqueros (p758)
Bodega La Casa Amarilla (%956 68 19 93; Calle
Sancho IV El Bravo 9; mains €14-18) With an attractive, „ Bolonia (p756)
flowery patio, this is a top place in town for „ Zahara de los Atunes (p756)
local grilled meats and fish, good revueltos
„ Playa del Playazo (p830)
(scrambled egg dishes) and tapas.
„ Cuesta de Maneli (p735)
Drinking & Entertainment „ Cabo de Trafalgar (p755)
The lively downtown bar scene focuses on „ Calas del Barronal (p830)
narrow Calle Santísima Trinidad and Calle
San Francisco, just east of the Alameda. Most „ Playa de la Victoria (p741)
places here get busy after 11pm and stay open „ Agua Amarga (p830)
till 2 or 3am. Many are closed on Sunday. „ Isla Cristina (p736)
Don’t miss the hip, Italian-owned bar-club
Soul Café (Calle Santísima Trinidad 9) with good cock-
tails and international music: you may hear lunch, for €55. You can get information and
guest DJs from Milan play their stuff. Right tickets at the Estación Marítima (Passenger
next door are the relaxed little Taco Way, known Port), where the ships sail from. All ferry pas-
for its mojitos, and La Ruina, with good elec- sengers need a passport except EU citizens on
tro dance music. Bistro Point (cnr Calles Santísima FRS excursions, for whom national ID cards
Trinidad & San Francisco) has a friendly international are sufficient.
crowd and serves good crepes (€2 to €4) too.
Also check out Irish and Italian-owned Mezcla

ANDALUCÍA
BUS
(Calle San Francisco 12), with sport screens, tapas Comes (%902 19 92 08, 956 68 40 38; Calle Batalla
and wi-fi. del Salado 13) runs six or more daily buses to
A handful of more clublike bars stay open Cádiz (€7.91, 1¾ hours), Algeciras (€1.90,
longer. Fashionable Bar Misiana (%956 62 70 83; 30 minutes) and La Línea de la Concepción
Hotel Misiana, Calle Sancho IV El Bravo 18) is one of the (€3.59, 45 minutes), four to Seville (€15.30,
places to be seen. DJs spin till 3 or 4am. Top three hours), two each to Jerez de la Frontera
of the late and cool list, though oddly located, (€8.34, 2½ hours) and Málaga (€12.45, two
is Ibiza-inspired Café del Mar (%956 62 72 16; hours), and one to Zahara de los Atunes
Polígono La Vega; hfrom 6pm Mon-Sat), which in- (€3.24, 40 minutes).
cludes a couple of bars and a nikkei (Japanese- In July and August local buses run about
Peruvian) restaurant as well as a night club every 1½ hours northwest along the coast
with resident house DJs. as far as Camping Jardín de las Dunas on
There are further bar and club possibili- Ensenada de Valdevaqueros. There’s a bus
ties on Playa de los Lances and outside town. stop at the bottom of the Paseo de Alameda;
The line-up is ever-changing, but two ap- another stop is at the Comes bus station, where
parent spring and summer fixtures are the a timetable and prices should be posted.
open-air Serengueti, on the beach, and spa-
cious Banti (%956 68 15 09; www.bantitarifa.com; N340 ALGECIRAS
Km82.7), which is also an Asian restaurant and pop 111,300
small hotel. Let’s be honest about this – nobody comes
to Algeciras for its beauty. This major port
Getting There & Around linking Spain with Africa is an ugly indus-
BOAT trial town and fishing port. If you come here
FRS (%956 68 18 30; www.frs.es; Avenida Andalucía) you do so only to leave again by catching a
runs a fast ferry between Tarifa and Tangier, ferry to Morocco. If for some reason you do
Morocco (passenger/car/motorcycle one-way have some time to kill here then make for
€31/85/31, 35 minutes), eight times daily, the palm-fringed main square, Plaza Alta. It
often with more sailings in July and August. should be said that in the tradition of seedy
FRS also offers daily one-day tours to Tangier ports the world over Algeciras isn’t entirely
including the ferry round trip, a guide and safe, and you should keep your wits about
 762 C Á D I Z P R O V I N C E • • A l g e c i r a s Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

0 200 m
ALGECIRAS 0 0.1 miles
s
Bla To Policia To A7 (1.5km);
Av fante

CM
In Nacional La Linea de la

M ayayo
Iglesia Nuestra

Av Virgen del
(160m) Concepción (20km);

artín
Plaza de Señora de Málaga (132km)
Andalucía la Palma
C P ablo

ez
Dársena Pesquera
Plaza (Fishing Harbour)

C M Cob o s
Alta rón
ra Mo Santuario Nuestra Señora
u
ent Virgen de Europa

C José
CV 1

Ca
rm
Anto

en
CC

nio
C Pr
ri s
tó

im
ba
lC
C Juan Mo

6 ló n
o

Av de la
8
r Plaza Market
st el a Palma
io Ca
Emil
rri s o

M
C
C

arina
C Duque de A

C Jos
Pa
n

t ria niente
rca é San C Tearoto
O C M 4
bis Ca 9
tacan
p o
ye

tan 5
lmodó

od
a

el t
To More
ro undo
var

gism
C Se la Cie
rva INFORMATION
e
Pase
Train Station n d 3 Post Office..........................................1 B1
C Ju a 2 Av de
Tourist Office.....................................2 C2
o

Villanuev a
C San Ber nardo
de la

7 SLEEPING
Co n

Hostal Marrakech...............................3 C2
f er e

Hotel Al-Mar......................................4 C2
n ci

Hotel Marina Victoria.........................5 C2

a

EATING
Restaurante Montes............................6 B2
ANDALUCÍA

TRANSPORT
Bus Station.........................................7 B3
To Hotel Reina Cristina (600m); Estación Marítima (Port).....................8 D2
Hospital Punta de Europa (3km); Ferry Ticket Offices............................9 C2
N340 (4km); Tarifa (18km)

you in the port, bus station and market. It’s Policía Nacional (%956 66 04 00; Avenida de las Fuerzas
also even more important than normal not to Armadas 6)
leave any valuables in your car and, if you are Tourist office (%956 57 32 41; Calle Juan de la Cierva
driving, never, ever pick up any hitch-hikers s/n; h9am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-3pm Sat & Sun)
around here. English-speaking; has a message board.
Algeciras was taken by Alfonso XI from
the Merenids of Morocco in 1344, but later Sleeping & Eating
razed by Mohammed V of Granada. In 1704 The accommodation scene in Algeciras is
it was repopulated by many of those who left pretty dire.
Gibraltar after it was taken by the British. Hostal Marrakech (%956 57 34 74; Calle Juan de la
During summer the port is hectic, as hun- Cierva 5; s/d €25/40) If you have to stay the night
dreds of thousands of Moroccans working in then do yourself favour and stay here. The
Europe return home for summer holidays. Moroccan family who run this place have a
handful of bold and tarty rooms with com-
Information munal bathrooms only.
If you’re going to arrive in Morocco at night, Hotel Marina Victoria (%956 63 28 65; www.hotel
take some dirham with you. Exchange rates marinavictoria.com; Avenida de la Marina 7; s/d €32/50; a)
for buying dirham in Algeciras are best at Shades of the ’70s prevail at this rundown
banks. There are banks and ATMs on Avenida hotel. Still, it’s handy for the port…
Virgen del Carmen and around Plaza Alta, Hotel Al-Mar (%956 65 46 61; Avenida de la Marina
plus a couple of ATMs inside the port. 2-3; s/d €53/94; pa) Following in the lead of
Hospital Punta de Europa (%956 02 50 00; Car- its neighbour, the Marina Victoria, the rooms
retera de Getares s/n) 3km west of the centre. in this lacklustre hotel also opt for the ’70s
Left Luggage (Estación Maritima; per item €2-3; disaster-film look.
h7am-9-30pm) Bags must be secured. There are lockers Hotel Reina Cristina (%956 60 26 22; www.hotel
(€3) nearby and also luggage storage at the bus station. esglobales.com; Paseo de la Conferencia s/n; s/d €89/149;
lonelyplanet.com G I B R A LTA R • • H i s t o r y 763

pas) For olde-worlde ambience head LA LÍNEA DE LA CONCEPCIÓN

south to this colonial-style hotel with two pop 63,000
swimming pools. Big discounts are often La Línea, 20km east of Algeciras, is the step-
available by booking through their website. ping stone to Gibraltar. A left turn as you
Restaurante Montes (%956 65 42 07; Calle Juan exit the bus station brings you onto Avenida
Morrison 27; menú €9.50, mains €15) The Montes has 20 de Abril, which runs the 300m or so from
a hugely fishy lunch menú consisting of three the main square, Plaza de la Constitución, to
courses, bread and wine. There is also a long the Gibraltar border. The municipal tourist office
list of tempting à la carte seafood. (%956 17 19 98; Avenida Príncipe Felipe s/n; h8am-8pm
Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat) faces the border.
Getting There & Away Buses run about every 30 minutes to/from
BOAT Algeciras (€1.86, 30 minutes).
Companies such as Trasmediterránea (%902 45 To save queuing at the border, many visi-
46 45; www.trasmediterranea.es) and EuroFerrys (%956 tors to Gibraltar park in La Línea, then walk
65 23 24; www.euroferrys.com) operate frequent daily across. The underground Parking Fo Cona, just
passenger and vehicle ferries to/from Tangier, off Avenida 20 de Abril, is the safest place to
Morocco (2½-hour ferry passenger/car and leave your wheels.
passenger €42/160; 1¼-hour fast ferry passen-
ger/car and passenger €42/160) and Ceuta, the
Spanish enclave on the Moroccan coast (35-
minute fast ferry passenger/car and passenger
GIBRALTAR
€39.50/146.10). Buquebus (%956 65 24 73) oper- When English poet Laurie Lee visited
ates a similar Ceuta service at least six times Gibraltar on his first journey through Spain
daily. From mid-June to September there are in the mid-1930s, he described it as looking
ferries almost round the clock to cater for the like ‘it had been towed out from Portsmouth

ANDALUCÍA
Moroccan holiday migration – you may have and anchored off-shore still wearing its own
to queue for up to three hours. Buy your ticket grey roof of weather’.
in the port or at the agencies on Avenida de la Despite bobbies on the beat and red post
Marina: prices are the same everywhere. boxes, Gibraltar is actually a cultural cocktail
with Genoese, Spanish, North African and
BUS other elements creating a rich blend. Naturally,
The bus station is on Calle San Bernardo. the main sight is the awesome Rock, a vast
Comes (%956 65 34 56) has buses for La Línea limestone ridge that rises to 426m, with sheer
(€1.86, 30 minutes) every half-hour (every cliffs on its northern and eastern sides. For
45 minutes at weekends). Other daily buses the ancient Greeks and Romans this was one
include up to 13 each to Tarifa (€1.86, 30 of the two Pillars of Hercules, split from the
minutes) and Cádiz (€10.59, 2½ hours), other, Jebel Musa in Morocco, in the course
six to Seville (€16.52, 2½ hours), and one of Hercules’ arduous Twelve Labours. The two
Monday to Friday to Ronda (€9.39, two to great rocks marked the edge of the ancient
three hours). Daibus (%956 58 78 97) runs four world. Gibraltar’s location and highly defen-
daily buses to Madrid (€27.55, eight to nine sible nature have attracted the covetous gaze
hours), starting from the port then calling at of military strategists ever since.
the bus station. Portillo (%902 14 31 44) operates Gibraltarians (77% of the population) speak
numerous buses up and down the Andalucian both English and Spanish and, often, a curious
Mediterranean coast. mix of the two. Signs are in English.

TRAIN History
From the station (%956 63 10 05), adjacent In 711 Tariq ibn Ziyad, the Muslim governor
to Calle San Bernardo, trains run to/from of Tangier, landed at Gibraltar to launch the
Madrid (€38.10 to €63.50, six or 11 hours, Islamic invasion of the Iberian Peninsula. The
two daily) and Granada (€18.35, four hours, name Gibraltar is derived from Jebel Tariq
three daily). All go through Ronda (€6.70 to (Tariq’s Mountain).
€17.40, 1¾ hours) and Bobadilla (€11, 2¾ Castilla wrested the Rock from the Muslims
hours), where you can change for Málaga, in 1462. Then in 1704 an Anglo-Dutch fleet
Córdoba or Seville. captured Gibraltar during the War of the
 764 G I B R A LTA R • • O r i e n t a t i o n lonelyplanet.com

Spanish Succession. Spain ceded the Rock to Gate, Main St, with all the shops, runs south
Britain in 1713, but didn’t abandon military for about 1km.
attempts to regain it until the failure of the
Great Siege of 1779–83. Britain developed it Information
into an important naval base (bringing in a BOOKSHOPS
community of Genoese ship repairers). During Bell Books (%76707; 11 Bell Lane)
the Franco period, Gibraltar was an extremely Gibraltar Bookshop (%71894; 300 Main St)
sore point between Britain and Spain: the bor-
der was closed from 1967 to 1985. In 1969 ELECTRICITY
Gibraltarians voted, by 12,138 to 44, in favour Electric current is the same as in Britain: 220V
of British rather than Spanish sovereignty, and or 240V, with plugs of three flat pins.
a new constitution gave Gibraltar domestic
self-government. In 2002 the UK and Spain EMERGENCY
held talks about a possible future sharing of Emergency (%199) For police or ambulance.
sovereignty over Gibraltar, but Gibraltarians Police station (120 Irish Town)
expressed their feelings in a referendum (not
recognised by Britain or Spain), which voted
INTERNET ACCESS
resoundingly against any such idea.
PC Clinic & Computer Centre (%49991; 17 Convent
In December 2005 the governments of the
Place; h9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri; per hr £3)
UK, Spain and Gibraltar set up a new, trilat-
eral process of dialogue. The three parties have
reached agreement on some issues but tricky MEDICAL SERVICES
topics remain, not the least Britain’s military St Bernard’s Hospital (%79700; Europort) 24-hour
installations and ‘ownership’ of Gibraltar air- emergency facilities.
port. Gibraltarians want self-determination
ANDALUCÍA

and to retain British citizenship, making joint MONEY

sovereignty improbable. Few foresee a change The currencies are the Gibraltar pound (£)
in the status quo but at least relations are and pound sterling, which are interchange-
less strained. On 18 September 2006 a three- able. You can spend euros (except in pay
way deal was signed by Spain, Gibraltar and phones and post offices) but conversion
Britain relating to telecommunications on rates are poor. Change unspent Gibraltar
the Rock, Gibraltar airport and other issues, currency before leaving. Banks are generally
but not sovereignty. Gibraltar airport will open from 9am to 3.30pm weekdays. There
be expanded across the border into Spain, are several on Main St.
and flights from Spanish cities and other
European destinations direct to Gibraltar POST
airport will be introduced. The mainstays of Post office (104 Main St; h9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri &
Gibraltar’s economy are tourism, the port and 10am-1pm Sat, closes at 2.15pm Mon-Fri mid-Jun–mid-Sep)
financial services (including, Spanish police
complain, the laundering of proceeds from TELEPHONE
organised crime, though Gibraltar counters To dial Gibraltar from Spain, you now pre-
that money laundering is tightly controlled). cede the five-digit local number with the
Investment on the Rock continues apace with code %00350; from other countries, dial the
a huge luxury waterfront development on its international access code, then the Gibraltar
western side. country code (%350) and local number. To
phone Spain from Gibraltar, just dial the
Orientation nine-digit Spanish number.
To reach Gibraltar by land you must pass
through the Spanish border town of La Línea TOURIST INFORMATION
de la Concepción (p763). Just south of the Gibraltar has several helpful tourist offices.
border, the road crosses Gibraltar airport run- Gibraltar Tourist Board (%45000, 74950; www
way. Gibraltar’s town and harbours lie along .gibraltar.gov.uk; Duke of Kent House, Cathedral Sq;
the Rock’s less steep western side, facing h9am-5.30pm Mon-Thu, to 5.15pm Fri)
Bahía de Algeciras (Bay of Gibraltar). From Information booth (%73026; airport; hMon-Fri,
Casemates Sq, just inside Grand Casemates mornings only)
lonelyplanet.com G I B R A LTA R • • S i g h t s & A c t i v i t i e s 765

0 100 m INFORMATION
GIBRALTAR 0 0.05 miles Bell Books...............................................................1 A3
To
Gibraltar Bookshop................................................. 2 A4
To Ocean
W

Water Gibraltar Tourist Board........................................... 3 A4

at

Village &
er

Gardens Marina Bay

p

Smith Dorrien Ave PC Clinic & Computer Centre.................................4 B4

or

Quay (150m) (100m)

tW

ha Co To Airport (400m);
rf r Police Station..........................................................5 A3
Rd Rd ral Caleta Hotel (450m);
Border (900m); Tourist Post Office.............................................................6 A3
20 Information Booth (900m);
ay
M

ensw La Linea de la Tourist Office.........................................................7 A1

ar

Que d
ke

et R Concepción (1km)
ark
tP

M
l

Fish Grand
Casemates SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Square Alameda Botanical Gardens.................................... 8 B6
7 Landport
14 Tunnel Gibraltar Museum.................................................. 9 A4
Trafalgar Cemetery...............................................10 B5

rag
e SLEEPING
To Europort ope Bristol Hotel.......................................................... 11 A4
& St Bernard’s Co La
Hospital Cannon Hotel....................................................... 12 A3
(300m)
O'Callaghan Eliott Hotel....................................... 13 A4
Parliament La
Line Wall Rd

EATING
lrish Town
Rd

Main St
Eng

Café Solo..............................................................14 B1
tion

ine

Clipper..................................................................15 A2
er L

16
la ma

Tuckeys House of Sacarello................................................16 A2

a

La
To Gibraltar Siege Exhibition (400m); Thyme..................................................................17 B3
Rec

15 22 Upper Rock Nature Reserve (700m);

1 Military Heritage Centre (800m);
6 Bell La Great Siege Tunnels (1.1km) TRANSPORT
C orn

18 Market La
17
Bus 10...................................................................18 A3
Horse
Castle Rd
wall

5 Bus 3....................................................................19 A4
Barrack
's Pde

Ct
La

Rd

l' s Bus 9.................................................................... 20 A1

John wal
lis's

Lower Cable-Car Station.......................................21 B6

rn

Mackintosh St Bernard's
Co

Wil

Square Hospital Turner & Co......................................................... 22 A2

Colle

ANDALUCÍA
ge L a
12

Information booth (%50762; Customs House, Fron-

Cannon

King's St
Cathedral of
St Mary the tier; h9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat)
Crowned
La

Tourist office (%74982; Grand Casemates Sq; h9am-

9 13 5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat, to 1pm Sun & holidays)
Governor's
Labrary St Parade Several information desks provide all the information you
11
19
need about Gibraltar, with plenty of pleasant cafes in the
Cathedral same square where you can read through it all at leisure.
Governor's St

on Rd

Cathedral Square
of the Holy
Trinity
Flat Basti

3 2
4 VISAS & DOCUMENTS
's La
Governor
To enter Gibraltar, you need a passport or EU
national identity card. EU, USA, Canadian,
Australian, New Zealand and South African
Pri nce Edward's Rd
Line W

passport-holders are among those who do

Main St

not need visas for Gibraltar. For further in-

all Rd
Q ue

formation contact Gibraltar’s Immigration

ensw

Town

Department (%51725).
ay

Range

Southport
Gate
Sights & Activities
10
THE TOWN
Pedestrianised Main St has an emphatically
British appearance, but the Spanish lilt in the
B o yd

air is a reminder that this is still Mediterranean

St

y
ts Wa To Apes’ Den (125m);
Elliot Top Cable-CarStation (250m)
Europe. Most Spanish and Islamic buildings
on Gibraltar were destroyed in 18th-century
21 sieges, but the Rock bristles with British forti-
Euro
R ed S
Rosia Rd

fications, gates and gun emplacements.

pa Rd

Upper
an d

8 Rock In the Gibraltar Museum (Bomb House Lane; adult/

sR

Nature
d

To Upper Rock Nature Reserve (200m);

Reserve under 12yr £2/1; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat), a
St Michael’s Cave (400m); Apes’ Den (1.75km)
labyrinth of rooms large and small, the story
 766 G I B R A LTA R • • S l e e p i n g Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

of Gibraltar unfolds from Neanderthal to of the more than 70km of tunnels in the Rock,
medieval artefacts, with plenty more of its most of which are off limits.
later military and naval history. Don’t miss On Willis’s Rd, which leads down to the
the well-preserved Muslim bathhouse and an town from Princess Caroline’s Battery, are the
intricately painted 7th-century BC-Egyptian Gibraltar, A City under Siege exhibition (visit at
mummy washed up here in the late 1800s. The twilight for maximum waxwork spookiness)
Trafalgar Cemetery (Prince Edward’s Rd; h9am-7pm) and the Tower of Homage, the last vestige of
gives a more poignant history lesson, with its Gibraltar’s Islamic castle, built in 1333.
graves of British sailors who died at Gibraltar
after the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805. The lush DOLPHIN-WATCHING
Alameda Botanic Gardens (Europa Rd; admission free; The Bahía de Algeciras has a sizeable popu-
h8am-sunset) are a short distance south. lation of dolphins and, from about April to
September, several boats make two or more
UPPER ROCK NATURE RESERVE daily trips out to see them; at other times of
The most exciting thing about Gibraltar is the the year there’s usually at least one in daily op-
Rock itself. Most of the upper Rock, starting eration. You’ll be unlucky not to get plenty of
just above the town, is a nature reserve (adult/child close-up dolphin contact. Most boats go from
incl attractions £8/4, vehicle £1.50, pedestrian excl attractions Watergardens Quay or adjacent Marina Bay.
£1; h9.30am-7pm), with spectacular views and The trips last about 1½ hours and cost around
several interesting spots to visit. A great way £20 per adult. Tourist offices have full details.
to get up here is by the cable car (opposite).
During a westerly wind the Rock is often a Sleeping
fine spot for observing migrations of birds, Cannon Hotel (%51711; www.cannonhotel.gi; 9 Cannon
especially raptors and storks, between Africa Lane; s/d without bathroom £26.50/38.50, d with bathroom
and Europe. January to early June is the time £47, all incl breakfast) This is a small, budget-priced
ANDALUCÍA

for northbound migrations, and late July to hotel right in the main shopping area.
early November for southbound migrations. Bristol Hotel (%76800; www.gibraltar.gi/bristol
White storks sometimes congregate in flocks hotel; 10 Cathedral Sq; s/d £63/81, with sea view £68/87;
of 3000 to cross the strait. pas) The rooms are large and comfort-
The Rock’s most famous inhabitants are able, if rather institutional. The hotel, well
its colony of Barbary macaques, the only wild located for the main shopping area, also has
primates in Europe (probably introduced an attractive walled garden and a small swim-
from North Africa in the 18th century). Some ming pool. Staff are helpful in a faithful old
of these hang around the Apes’ Den, near the retainer kind of way.
middle cable-car station; others lurk at the top Caleta Hotel (%76501; www.caletahotel.gi; Sir
cable-car station or the Great Siege Tunnels. Herbert Miles Rd; d/ste without/with sea view £110/150;
Touchingly human in their ways, they groom pais) This has a wonderful location
their young with frowns of absorption, snack overlooking Catalan Bay, on the east side of
on blackened banana skins, or pose for your the Rock, five minutes from town. Its cas-
camera, looking wistfully out to sea. cading terraces have panoramic sea views,
About 20 minutes’ walk south down St and there’s a host of gym and spa facilities.
Michael’s Rd from the top cable-car station Bedrooms are large and luxurious.
(or 20 minutes up from the Apes’ Den), St O’Callaghan Eliott Hotel (%70500; www.ocalla
Michael’s Cave is a big natural grotto that was ghanhotels.com; 2 Governor’s Parade; d £140-180, ste £340;
once home to Neolithic inhabitants of the pais) On a leafy square, the Eliott
Rock. Giant fingers of stone plunge deep has sumptuous rooms, fittings and furnish-
and soar high, with atmospheric lighting to ings, a gym and rooftop pool plus a gorgeous
add drama as you pace the walkway on a 15- rooftop restaurant.
minute tour. Princess Caroline’s Battery, a
half-hour walk north (downhill) from the Eating
top cable-car station, houses a Military Heritage Clipper (%79791; 78B Irish Town; mains £3.50-9; v)
Centre. From here a road leads up to the im- Most of Gibraltar’s pubs serve British pub
pressive Great Siege Tunnels, hand-hewn by the meals. The Clipper offers real pub grub and
British for gun emplacements during the siege genuine pub atmosphere, all varnished wood
of 1779–83. They constitute a tiny proportion with full-on footy and a cracking Sunday
lonelyplanet.com M Á L A G A P R O V I N C E 767

roast. Vegetarians should go for the Greek BOAT

salad wrap. Full English breakfast is served FRS (%956 68 18 30 in Tarifa, Spain; www.frs.es) oper-
from 9.30 to 11am. ates one ferry a week between Gibraltar and
House of Sacarello (%70625; 57 Irish Town; daily Tangier, departing Gibraltar at 9pm Friday for
specials £7-11.50; h9am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat, the 70-minute crossing, and returning at the
closed Sun) A chic place in a converted coffee same time on Sunday. One-way/return fares
warehouse with light lunches including pastas are adult £32/57, child £21/38, car £83/150.
and salads. You can linger over afternoon tea The ferry departs from the terminal in front of
(£4) between 3pm and 7.30pm. the coach park. Purchase tickets from Turner &
Café Solo (%44449; Grand Casemates Sq 3; pastas £8-12) Co (%78305; 67 Irish Town, h8am-3-pm Mon-Fri Jun-Oct,
With tables inside the exposed brick and wood 9am-1pm & 2-5pm Nov-May).
cafe and out on the bustling square, this is a
good place to stop for coffees, continental beers BUS
and a variety of interesting pastas and salads, There are no regular buses to Gibraltar, but La
including vegetarian goodies. It’s also a great Línea de la Concepción bus station (p763) is
place for breakfast, with mellow jazz piped in. only a five-minute walk from the border.
Nuno’s (%76501; Caleta Hotel, Sir Herbert Miles Rd;
mains £11-15) A top-class, formal Italian restau- CAR & MOTORCYCLE
rant in the Caleta Hotel, with fabulous terrace Snaking vehicle queues at the 24-hour bor-
views. Delicious homemade pastas and risot- der and congested traffic in Gibraltar often
tos are accompanied by an extensive wine list. make it easier to park in La Línea and walk
Try the breast of duck with fig ravioli. across the border. To take a car into Gibraltar
oThyme (%49199; www.dineatthyme.com; (free) you need an insurance certificate, reg-
5 Cornwall’s Lane; mains £12-22); hclosed Sun) Middle istration document, nationality plate and
Eastern, Italian, Spanish or Thai – Thyme’s

ANDALUCÍA
driving licence.
menu reflects Gibraltar’s joyful muddle of
ethnicities, and does it brilliantly. Share the Getting Around
Seafood Slammer – seven large shot glasses The 1.5km walk from the border to the town
filled with miniature masterpieces, including centre crosses the airport runway. A left turn
a musically crisp prawn tempura with a red off Corral Rd takes you through the pedes-
onion marmalade, and sea bass with home- trian Landport Tunnel into Grand Casemates
made tartare sauce. Move on (slowly) to chilli Sq. Alternatively, several local bus lines (adult/
and lime-roasted chicken on a bed of Thai child/senior 70p/50p/40p) run from the bor-
risotto with a tomato and coriander salsa. Add der into town about every 15 minutes (every
chilled jazz, a warm welcome, the smart decor, 30 minutes on Saturday and Sunday), until
and you have an extraordinary experience. 9pm. Bus 9 goes to Market Pl; number 3 goes
Several pleasant waterside eateries also line to Cathedral Sq and the lower cable-car sta-
Marina Bay. tion; and number 10, a red double-decker,
runs to Europort (stopping at Morrisons),
Shopping then Reclamation Rd near the city centre.
Gibraltar has lots of British high-street stores, All of Gibraltar can be covered on foot,
such as Next, Marks & Spencer, Monsoon and and much of it (including the upper Rock)
Mothercare (all on or just off Main St) and by car or motorcycle. You can also ascend,
a huge Morrisons store (in Europort at the weather permitting, by the cable car (Red Sands
northern end of the main harbour). Shops Rd; adult return £8, child £4.50; hevery few min 9.30am-8pm
are normally open 9am to 7.30pm weekdays, Mon-Sat; last cable up, 7.15pm, last cable down 7.45pm, to 5pm
and until 1pm Saturday. Oct-Apr). For the Apes’ Den, disembark at the
middle station.
Getting There & Away
AIR
Easyjet (www.easyjet.com), Iberia (www.iberia
.com) and Monarch fly daily to/from London
MÁLAGA PROVINCE
Gatwick. Monarch Airlines (%47477; www.flymon To many travellers, until quite recently,
arch.com) flies daily to/from London Luton Málaga was just a Spanish airport, their last
and Manchester. stop on the way to the sun, sea and sand
 768 M Á L A G A P R O V I N C E • • M á l a g a lonelyplanet.com

package holiday on the Costa del Sol. But launched on the nearby Costa del Sol in the
that perception is changing as fast as the ar- 1950s. In recent years, the city has become an
ea’s increasingly sophisticated city life, arts important destination in itself.
venues and construction of cutting-edge ho-
tels. Inland, by contrast, time often seems to Orientation
stand still, captured in the historic treasures The tree-lined Paseo del Parque and Alameda
of Ronda and Antequera, and in the sprin- Principal run along the southern edge of the
kling of white villages in the surrounding hills. old town. The main streets leading north into
Nevertheless, Málaga’s coastal resorts, from the old town are Calle Marqués de Larios and
Torremolinos to Nerja, are undeniably ob- Calle Molina Lario. The Gibralfaro hill rising
sessed with holidays – yours. So you get a huge above the eastern half of Paseo del Parque dom-
choice of good accommodation and loads to inates the central area. Avenida de Andalucía
see and do by day and night, especially if you continues the Paseo del Parque–Alameda
are holidaying as a family. Olé! Principal axis west of Río Guadalmedina.
The main train and bus stations are around
MÁLAGA 600m south of Avenida de Andalucía, and the
pop 720,000 airport is 9km southwest.
This exuberant and very Spanish port city, set
against a sparkling blue Mediterranean, is both Information
historic and pulsing with modern life; more There are plenty of banks with ATMs on Calle
than any other major Andalucian city, Málaga Puerta del Mar and Calle Marqués de Larios,
seems to be focusing on the future, though with and ATMs in the airport arrivals hall.
plenty to boast about from the past. The centre Hospital Carlos Haya (%951 03 01 00; Avenida de
presents the visitor with narrow old streets Carlos Haya) The main hospital, 2km west of the centre.
and wide, leafy boulevards, beautiful gardens Librería Luces (Map p770; Alameda Principal 16) Book-
ANDALUCÍA

and impressive monuments, fashionable shops shop with some English titles and a good travel section,
and a burgeoning cultural life. The austere and both on the ground floor.
beautiful Picasso Museum, devoted to Málaga’s Meeting Point (Map p770; Plaza de la Merced 20;
most illustrious son, is leading a mini-galaxy internet per min/hr €0.20/1-2; h10am-11pm Mon-Sat,
of contemporary arts venues and events in its 1.30-11pm Sun) Twenty-five internet stations in a big
energetic wake, including a fascinating mu- bright centre with video game stations in front of the store.
seum of contemporary art and a new fine arts Municipal tourist office (www.malagaturismo.com
museum pending. The historic centre is being in Spanish) Plaza de la Marina (Map p770; %952 12 20
restored and much of it pedestrianised, and the 20; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct,
port is being developed as a leisure zone. The to 6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun, Nov-Mar) Casita
city’s terrific bars and nightlife, the last word in del Jardinero (Map p770; %952 13 47 31; Avenida de
Málaga joie de vivre, stay open very late. Cervantes 1; hsame hr) Also information booths at the
bus station and around town.
History Policía Local (Map p769; %952 12 65 00; Avenida de
Probably founded by Phoenicians, Málaga has la Rosaleda 19)
long had a commercial vocation. It flourished Post office (Map p769; Avenida de Andalucía 1;
in the Islamic era, especially as the chief port h8.30am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-2pm Sat)
of the Emirate of Granada, later reasserting Regional tourist office (Map p770; %951 30 89 11;
itself as an entrepreneurial centre in the 19th Pasaje de Chinitas 4; www.andalucia.org; h9am-7.30pm
century when a dynamic middle class founded Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat, to 2pm Sun) There is another
textile factories, sugar and steel mills and ship- branch at the airport; these cover the whole of Málaga and
yards. Málaga dessert wine (‘mountain sack’) all of Andalucía.
was popular in Victorian England. During the
civil war Málaga was initially a Republican Sights
stronghold. Hundreds of Nationalist sym- MUSEO PICASSO MÁLAGA
pathisers were killed before the city fell in The hottest attraction on Málaga’s tourist
February 1937 after being bombed by Italian scene is tucked away on a pedestrian street
planes. Vicious reprisals followed. in what was medieval Málaga’s judería. The
Málaga has enjoyed a steadily increasing Museo Picasso Málaga (Map p770; %902 44 33 77;
economic spin-off from the mass tourism www.museopicassomalaga.org; Palacio de Buenavista, Calle
 0 400 m
MÁLAGA 0 0.2 miles

To Jardin
Botánico
La Concepción (3.5km);
Antequera (50km)
C Ba
ilén 1

a
e
Gibralfa
lonelyplanet.com

ro

C Sevilla
Monte de d

ori
ino

C Fátima
ría Gibralfaro C am

Vic
ar rete

C Don Juan de Austria

CC
Plaza de 4
la Merced
7

Av de Barcelona

C Eugenio Gross
Av de la Rosaleda

C Pelayo
Jardine de
Puerta Oscura
C Maldonado C Mármoles
C Puerta Plaza de la Cementerio
To Hospital Carlos Nueva Constitución Old Inglés
Paseo de Sancha
Haya (800m) Town Príes
telo
Paseo de Reding Av de
6 Plaza del n So Plaza La
uillé Plaza de
ros Obispo CG General

de la Mota
ntes Malagueta a s so

C
isne Toros

C A de Palencia
erva Torrijos

Cañón
C arítimo PicTo Playa de
CC e eo M
jo Av d Pas Pedregalejo (3km);

ina
ntes

oro

v
na Playa del Palo (4km);

d
Av err riti lle Jardines

A el
Hi CC Co ue Alcalde Pedro Nerja (56km)

C
ler

almed mingo
a C el M Parque Ruiz Alonso

Cá ast
va
s

C Armengula
d o del

C
Av Cerva

Pase uras no illo

C Velez-M
los C

GuadSanto Do
álaga
o de
Plaza de la Pase
3 l 8
lla

El Corte Marina
cipa arola
eli

Prin

Río
Inglés
M

eda See Central Málaga Map (p770) la F

de

Av de Andal
ucía
d

Alam
nd
de
da
iu

id d Gru Playa de la
n a
eo
oC

2 C Tri 11 Malagueta

C To
tim

Acciona
Pas

V e ndeja
arí

más
Trasmediterránea

ia
oM

d
o

Alam
se

re
rros MEDITERRANEAN

de H
Pa

C Ba

He

eda
10 SEA

ered
tí
ia

el del

Mo
g us

le
de C

rch es
u
l

lA

Pe jon
Ca 5

C Mro Pa
ue ent

olón

icaí
an Parc uesa

o
CA

Esl

aur reto
M

av
les

a
l em
Puerto

te
Av de D

ar
Antepurerto

l
ania

Cu
9

Expa Est
To Cortijo de Torres

lan ació
(Fair Site; 1.9km) INFORMATION SLEEPING

ad
ad n
e
Train Station Policía Local........................................1 C1 Parador Málaga Gibralfaro..................7 E1
(Málaga RENFE) s Post Office.........................................2 B3
le

na
Universidad de Málaga.......................3 A2 EATING

Ca
Restaurante Antonio Martín................8 E2

C
a
s to SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
So
de Castillo de Gibralfaro...........................4 E1 TRANSPORT
e Antepuerto
ro Centro de Arte Contemporáneo.........5 C3 Bus Station.........................................9 A4
Hé Museo de Artes y Costumbres Estación Marítima.............................10 C3
C
To Airport (9km); To Melilla Populares.......................................6 C2 Malaga Tour Bus..............................11 C3
Torremolinos (14km) (180km)
M Á L A G A P R O V I N C E • • M á l a g a 769

ANDALUCÍA
 770 M Á L A G A P R O V I N C E • • C e n t r a l M á l a g a lonelyplanet.com

0 200 m
CENTRAL MÁLAGA 0 0.1 miles

INFORMATION EATING DRINKING

Librería Luces.....................................1 A6 Café de Flores..................................21 C2 Antigua Casa de Guardia................. 31 A6
Meeting Point....................................2 D3 Café Moka.......................................22 B5 Bodegas El Pimpi..............................32 C4
Municipal Tourist Office.................... 3 D5 Clandestino......................................23 C4 C de Bruselas.............................. 33 C3
Municipal Tourist Office.....................4 B6 Comoloco.........................................24 B4 La Vidriera........................................34 B3
Regional Tourist Office.......................5 B4 El Jardín............................................25 C5
Tourist Information Booth..................6 C3 El Vegetariano de la Alcazabilla........26 D4 ENTERTAINMENT
Gorki................................................27 B5 Asúcar..............................................35 B3
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES La Posada Antonio............................28 B4 Liceo................................................36 C3
Alcazaba............................................ 7 D4 La Rebaná........................................29 B4 Teatro Cervantes..............................37 C2
Casa Natal de Picasso.........................8 C3 Lechuga...........................................30 C3 Tetería El Harén...............................38 A3
Cathedral...........................................9 C5 Warhol.............................................39 B4
Museo Picasso Málaga.....................10 C4
Palacio de la Aduana........................11 C5 TRANSPORT
Portada de la Iglesia del Sagrario......12 B3 15 Bus 11 for El Palo.............................40 D5
Roman Theatre................................13 D4 Bus 19 to Airport..............................41 C6

a
os
Bus 35 for Castillo de Gibralfaro........42 D5

str
ne
SLEEPING MalagaBike Tours............................ 43 D3

Hi
AC Málaga Palacio...........................14 B5 37 in Taxi..................................................44 B5

C
ar
El Riad Andaluz................................15 C2 M
Hostal Derby....................................16 B6 os
Ram
Hostal Larios.....................................17 B6 C

C
Gó
Hostal Victoria..................................18 B6 21

m
ez
Hotel Carlos V..................................19 C5

P all
Hotel Don Curro...............................20 B5
C

et
33

e
M
ad

i a
CT

tor
re

ría 43
rete
de

Vic
e jó

Car ea
Di
B

C y 6
n

ta

C
8 2
os

Ro s
nq iro e
Fra da s d
illa

d r Plaza
CÁ
C Gua rqué
Pad

lo

de la
C

ígu

la m
ue

ez
a

a
No

lm

os Merced
M
de
sq

ia s

pa

C
ANDALUCÍA

ue

34
ed

sa
uan

C
ra

Ca

Old
om

An 36
CJ

dr C Town C
C

C C To
era

38 35 m 30
és

Pé ás
qu

re
os

Plaza de de
C

z
én
M

Uncibay
La

Có
de

tes
C

de z ar
zc

zN

ien
C Gue
an

Plaza lec
o

uñ

Ni va

va
r ía

Martínes
ño ra
ez

Galerías
on Plaza 39
ez

C Calde

C Goya
zru

Mitjana
C Belgrano

C 23 26
elá

24 C Gran CP
ada del Rozo
eV

28
d

ey
uis
CL

32
r
to

10
Pas

illa
hez

C Molina Lario

C Alcazab
ánc

7
tín
CS

us

C
Ag

Plaza de la San 13
Constitución ata 29
n

Pasaje Ma
Sa

de Ch ría
C

initas ury
bo
5 C Císter Tem
Palacio 12 n
Episcopal Plaza Jua
n
Plaza
C Moreno Monroy de la Do
25 Aduana se o lo
Sote
C Cañón

de las Pa
Flores alina
s Cathedral 19 P illén
CS Plaza del 9 Adlaza Gu
a

ua d C
C Nuev

Obispo e
Palacio na
11 de la
C Marqués de Lario

Aduana s
ante
C Strachan 3 e Cerv
27 lle Av d 42
ue 40
C Molina Lario

lM
z

de
V él e

C Bolsa
na
44 riti rque
Co l Pa
o de
n

C Snard jo
Be l Vie
esó

C
Pase
r
e

an o

14
s
CM

20
22 a
ancha de Lar
CS 41
18 Jardines
C Sae Dios

16 Plaza
d

Alcalde Pedro
n Jua

17 de la Ruiz Alonso
as uras
zan Marina
tata los C
n

CA o de
Pase
a
uert
C Pl Mar
de ipal
4
c
1 Prin
eda
31 Alam

Puerto
Antepurerto
lonelyplanet.com M Á L A G A P R O V I N C E • • M á l a g a 771

San Agustín 8; permanent collection €6, temporary exhibi- the harbour and city enliven the walk, while
tion €4.50, combined ticket €8, seniors & under-26 students honeysuckle, roses and jasmine perfume the
half price; h10am-8pm Tue-Thu & Sun, to 9pm Fri & Sat) air. Go before noon during the hot months,
has 204 Picasso works, donated and lent by to avoid the crowds as well as the worst of
his daughter-in-law Christine Ruiz-Picasso the heat, and watch out for low, unprotected
and grandson Bernard Ruiz-Picasso, and also parapets, especially if you are taking kids. A
stages high-quality temporary exhibitions on lift (elevator) from Calle Guillén Sotelo brings
Picasso themes. The Picasso paintings, draw- you out in the heart of the Alcazaba.
ings, engravings, sculptures and ceramics on Below the Alcazaba is a Roman theatre.
show (many never previously on public dis-
play) span almost every phase and influence CASTILLO DE GIBRALFARO
of the artist’s colourful career – blue period, Above the Alcazaba rises the older Castillo
cubism, surrealism and more, with a fasci- de Gibralfaro (Map p769; %952 22 72 30; admission €2;
nating emphasis on early, formative works. h9am-9pm Apr-Sep, to 6pm Oct-Mar), built by Abd
Gaze at ‘Niña con su muñeca’ and marvel. ar-Rahman I, the 8th-century Cordoban emir,
The museum is housed in the 16th-century and rebuilt in the 14th and 15th centuries.
Palacio de Buenavista, sensationally restored Nothing much remains of the interior of the
at a cost of €66 million. Picasso was born in castle, but the walkway around the ramparts
Málaga in 1881 but moved to northern Spain affords exhilarating views and there’s a tiny
with his family when he was nine. museum with a military focus.
To walk up to the Castillo, take the road
CATHEDRAL immediately right of the Alcazaba entrance,
Málaga’s cathedral (Map p770; %952 21 59 17; and where it bends left into a tunnel, take the
www.3planalfa.es/catedralmalaga; Calle Molina Lario, entrance steps on the right; or take bus 35 from Avenida
Calle Císter; admission €3.50; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to de Cervantes (roughly every 45 minutes). The

ANDALUCÍA
5pm Fri, closed Sun & holidays) was begun in the 16th walk is long and steeply uphill. There is a
century on the former site of the main mosque. small cafe with outdoor seating and toilets
Building continued for two centuries, so at the Castillo.
while the northern door, Portada de la Iglesia del
Sagrario, is Gothic, and the interior, with a soar- OTHER MUSEUMS
ing 40m dome, is Gothic and Renaissance, the Casa Natal de Picasso (Map p770; %952 06 02 15; Plaza
facade is 18th-century baroque. The cathedral de la Merced 15; admission free; h9.30am-7.45pm, closed
is known as La Manquita (the One-Armed), major holidays), Picasso’s birthplace, is a centre for
since its southern tower was never completed. exhibitions and academic research on contem-
Inside, note the 17th-century wooden choir porary art, with a few compelling items of per-
stalls, as dark and smooth as chocolate, finely sonal memorabilia and a well-stocked shop.
carved by the popular Andalucian sculptor Centro de Arte Contemporáneo (Map p769; %952
Pedro de Mena. The chapels vie with each other 12 00 55; Calle Alemania; admission free; h10am-8pm,
in splendour. Pause at the Chapel of the Virgin 10am-2pm & 5-9pm 20 Jun-24 Sep, Tue-Sun) is a coolly
of the Kings (numbered 18 in the Cathedral minimal museum of international 20th- and
guide) to look at a large painting depicting the 21st-century art housed in a skilfully con-
beheading of St Paul – violent, graphic and verted 1930s market. The large and diverse
strangely beautiful. museum shop and suitably stark cafe are good
stops to complete your visit.
ALCAZABA Located in a 17th-century inn, the speci-
At the lower, western end of the Gibralfaro ality of Museo de Artes y Costumbres Populares
hill, the wheelchair-accessible Alcazaba (Map (Museum of Popular Arts & Customs; Map p769; %952 21
p770; %952 22 51 06; Calle Alcazabilla; admission €2, incl 71 37; www.museoartespopulares.com; Pasillo de Santa Isabel
Castillo de Gibralfaro €3.20; h9.30am-8pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 10; adult/under 14yr/senior €2/free/1; h10am-1.30pm & 4-
8.30am-7pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar, closed Mon & major holidays) 7pm Mon-Fri Jun-Sep, to 8pm Oct-May, 10am-1.30pm Sat) is
was the palace-fortress of Málaga’s Muslim everyday rural and urban life of the past; note
governors, dating from 1057. The brick path the painted clay figures (barros) of characters
winds uphill, interspersed with arches and from Málaga folklore.
stone walls and refreshingly cool in sum- The Palacio de la Aduana (Map p770; Paseo del
mer. Roman artefacts and fleeting views of Parque; admission free; h3-8pm Tue, 9am-8pm Wed-Fri,
 772 M Á L A G A P R O V I N C E • • M á l a g a Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

9am-3pm Sat & Sun) is set to become the perma- 24 hours ahead. Or you can travel in old-
nent home of the city’s museum, but not until fashioned style, with a horse-and-carriage tour
2012. Art exhibitions have been suspended, of the city that lasts 45 minutes and costs €30.
but meanwhile, you can marvel at one of Carriages line up at the Plaza de la Marina end
Andalucía’s largest and most magnificent of the Jardines Alcalde Pedro Ruiz Alonzo,
patios, and take shelter from the sun under along the Paseo del Parque.
glossy, broad-leafed plants.
Festivals & Events
BEACHES Semana Santa (Holy Week) Solemn and spectacular:
Sandy city beaches stretch several kilometres the platforms bearing the holy images (tronos) are large
in each direction from the port. Playa de la and heavy, each needing up to 150 bearers. Every night
Malagueta, handy to the city centre, has some from Palm Sunday to Good Friday, six or seven tronos are
excellent bars and restaurants close by. Playa carried through the city, watched by big crowds. Witness
de Pedregalejo and Playa del Palo, about 4km this event on the Alameda Principal, between 7pm and
east of the centre, are popular and reachable midnight.
by bus 11 from Paseo del Parque. Feria de Málaga (mid- to late August) Lasting nine days,
this is the biggest and most ebullient of Andalucía’s sum-
JARDÍN BOTÁNICO LA CONCEPCIÓN mer fairs. During daytime, especially on the two Saturdays,
The largely tropical Jardín Botánico (%952 25 21 celebrations take over the city centre, with music, dancing
48; adult/under 16 yrs/senior €4/2/2; h9.30am-5.30pm Oct- and horses. At night the fun switches to large feria grounds
Mar, 9.30am-8.30pm (last entry 7pm) Apr-Sep, closed Mon), at Cortijo de Torres, 4km southwest of the city centre, with
4km north of the city centre, feature towering fairground rides, music and dancing.
trees (including hundreds of palms), 5000
tropical plants, waterfalls, lakes and spectacu- Sleeping
lar seasonal blooms – especially the purple Hostal Derby (Map p770; %952 22 13 01; Calle San Juan
ANDALUCÍA

wisteria in spring. You can visit solo or by de Dios 1, 4th fl; s/d €36/49; i) A good-value hostal
1½-hour guided tour in English, costing an with spacious rooms and big windows, some
extra €2.50. overlooking the harbour.
By car, take the N331 Antequera road Hotel Carlos V (Map p770; %952 21 51 20; carlosv@
north from the Málaga ring road (A7) to spa.es; Calle Císter 10; s €36, d €59; pai) Close
Km166 and follow the signs. Alternatively, to the cathedral and Picasso museum, the
the MálagaTour bus (below) runs from the Carlos V is enduringly popular. Renovated in
bus station to the gardens. 2008, bathrooms sparkle in their new uniform
of cream-and-white tiles. Excellent standard
Courses for the price and helpful staff make this hotel
There are many private language schools in a winner.
Málaga; the main tourist offices have contact Hostal Larios (Map p770; %952 22 54 90; www.hostal
lists. The Universidad de Málaga (Map p769; %952 27 larios.com; Calle Marqués de Larios 9; s/d/tr with bathroom
82 11; www.uma.es/estudios/extranj/extranjeros.htm; Avenida €48/58/78; s/d without bathroom €39/49; pai).
de Andalucía 24) also runs very popular courses. This central hostal outclasses all others in
the budget range. The 12 rooms are painted
Tours apricot and blue.
To pick up the child-friendly, open-topped HostalVictoria (Mapp770;%952224224;hostalvictoria@
MalagaTour bus (Map p769; %902 10 10 81; www.malaga hostalvictoria.net; Calle Sancha de Lara 3; s/d €55/69; a)
-tour.com; adult/child €15/7; hevery 30 min 9.30am-8pm), Centrally located, the Victoria provides basic,
head for Avenida Manuel Agustín Heredia or comfortable rooms with bathtubs.
the eastern end of the Paseo del Parque. This El Riad Andaluz (Map p770; %952 21 36 40; www
hop-on-hop-off tour does a circuit of the city, .elriadandaluz.com; Calle Hinestrosa 24; s/d 70/90; ai)
stopping at all the sights. Tickets are valid for Colourful and exotic, this gorgeous restored
24 hours. If you’re happier on two wheels, monastery offers eight rooms with Moroccan
you can try MalagaBike Tours (%606 978513; www decor set around an atmospheric patio, with
.malagabiketours.eu; Calle Victoria 15; €23). In four hours tea and coffee on tap all day. Situated in the
you can tour the Jewish quarter and the Arab rapidly gentrifying Centro Historico, it’s an
city, breathe sea air along the prom and quaff easy stroll to all the funkiest bars and res-
a free drink in a typical malagueño bar. Book taurants in surrounding plazas. The French
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels M Á L A G A P R O V I N C E • • M á l a g a 773

owner and his family infuse the Riad with a a vegetarian’s delight of salads and gener-
special magic. ously filled pitta wraps at a good price amid
Hotel Don Curro (Map p770; %952 22 72 00; www industrial decor.
.hoteldoncurro.com; Calle Sancha de Lara 7; s/d €80/110; El Vegetariano de la Alcazabilla (Map p770; %952
pai) Big, busy Don Curro is efficient, 21 48 58; Calle Pozo del Rey 5; mains €9.50-12.50; hclosed
comfortable and central, with well-appointed, Sun; v) Laid-back veggie/vegan restaurant
spacious rooms, and substantial breakfasts combining friendly service with good food in
just a few steps away at its own Café Moka. a shabby-chic setting just a cannonball throw
AC Málaga Palacio (Map p770; %952 21 51 85; www from the Alcazaba walls. Do try the ‘meatballs
.achotels.com; Calle Cortina del Muelle 1; d €137; pas) of Seitan’.
This sleek, 15-storey hotel has sensational El Jardín (Map p770; %952 22 04 19; Calle Cañón
views over the busy seafront. Design in the 1; mains €12.50; h9am-midnight Mon-Thu, to 2pm &
public areas tends towards bling, but the rooms 5pm-midnight Fri & Sat, 5pm-midnight Sun) Beautiful
are quietly elegant, there is a top-floor terrace Viennese-style cafe next to the palm-filled
for drinks and dining, and body pampering gardens behind the cathedral. Lace tablecloths
facilities complete its luxury offerings. and walls lined with old photographs add up
Parador Málaga Gibralfaro (Map p769; %952 22 19 to an evocative ambience, but not great food.
02; www.parador.es; Castillo de Gibralfaro, s/n; s/d €134/170; Sip a coffee or a glass of wine earlier in the day
pas) With an unbeatable location up and soak up the atmosphere.
on the pine-forested Gibralfaro hill, Málaga’s Clandestino (Map p770; %952 21 93 90; Calle Niño
modern but rustic parador provides spectacu- de Guevara 3; mains €9-17; h1pm-1am; v) A trendy
lar views of city and harbour from its upper warehouse-style restaurant with an excit-
floors, an excellent terrace restaurant and a ing menu that fuses northern European and
rooftop pool. Latin cuisines. A good selection of vegetarian
dishes is headed by silky felafel patties on a

ANDALUCÍA
Eating salad dressed with alfalfa sprouts and a dill
TAPAS yogurt vinaigrette.
La Rebaná (Map p770; Calle Molina Lario 5; tapas €4.20- Cafe de Flores (Map p770; %952 60 85 24; Calle Madre
8.50, raciones €7-11.50) A great, noisy tapas bar de Dios 29; menú €9.50, mains €14-23; h1.30pm-late, closed
near the Picasso Museum and the cathedral. Mon) Formerly La Casa del Ángel, the once ec-
Dark wood, tall windows and exposed brick centric interior has been replaced with sleek
walls create a modern, minimal but laid-back plexiglass furniture, abstract art and a highly
space. Try the foie gras with salted nougat for rated DJ to become a haunt of smart young
a unique tapa. malagueños in up-and-coming Plaza Madre de
Gorki (Map p770; %952 22 14 66; Calle Strachan 6; platos Dios, right opposite the blue-and-gold Teatro
combinados €7.50-16) A popular upmarket tapas Cervantes. By day it’s a coffee bar and lunch
bar with pavement tables and a modern inte- place, by night good food is complemented
rior full of wine-barrel tables and stools. by great sounds.
Lechuga (Map p770; Plaza de la Merced 1; tapas Restaurante Antonio Martín (Map p769; %952
€2.50-3.60, raciones €8-9.50; v) In this calm re- 22 73 98; Playa de la Malagueta; mains €22-29; hclosed
treat, vegetables reign supreme and the chef Sun Nov-Apr) On the beach and with a large ter-
does wonderful things with them, as with race, Antonio Martín is a somewhat stuffy
hummus, Indian-style bhajis and various dress-up-and-be-seen restaurant serving a
inventive salads. range of fried fish and meat in a starched
tablecloth zone.
RESTAURANTS
Málaga’s restaurants are well priced and of a Drinking
good standard due to the largely local clien- On weekend nights, the web of narrow old
tele. A speciality here is fish fried quickly in streets north of Plaza de la Constitución comes
olive oil. Fritura malagueña consists of fried alive. Look for bars around Plaza de la Merced,
fish, anchovies and squid. Plaza Mitjana and Plaza de Uncibay.
Comoloco (Map p770; Calle Denis Belgrano 17; salads Antigua Casa de Guardia (Map p770; %952 21
€8-10 & pittas €5-6; h1pm-1am, v) This place with 46 80; Alameda Central 18) This venerable old tav-
huge windows onto the little street is packed ern has been serving Málaga’s sweet des-
out at lunchtime. The menu also features sert wines since 1840. Try the dark brown,
 774 M Á L A G A P R O V I N C E • • M á l a g a lonelyplanet.com

sherry-like seco complemented by a simple Getting There & Away

plate of prawns. AIR
Bodegas El Pimpi (Map p770; %952 22 89 90; Calle Málaga’s busy airport (%952 04 88 38), the main
Granada 62; h7pm-2am) A Málaga institution with international gateway to Andalucía, receives
a warren of charming rooms and mini-patios, flights by dozens of airlines (budget and oth-
El Pimpi attracts a fun-loving crowd of all erwise) from around Europe (see p883).
nationalities and generations with its sweet
wine and traditional music. BOAT
Calle de Brusellas (Map p770; %952 60 39 48; Plaza Trasmediterránea (%952 22 74 77, 902 45 46 45; www
de la Merced 16; h9am-2am) This is a retro Belgian .trasmediterranea.com; Estación Marítima, Local E1) oper-
bar that woos a bohemian crowd. During the ates a fast ferry (four hours) and a slower ferry
day it caters to the coffee scene with pavement (7½ hours) daily year-round to/from Melilla
tables, then at night the dark little bar comes (passenger, fast ferry/ferry €55/33.50; car, fast
to life. Good tapas include a generous helping ferry/ferry €174/156).
of fresh Greek feta salad.
Café Moka (Map p770; %952 21 40 02; Calle San BUS
Bernardo El Viejo 2) Just off the Calle Larios, this Málaga’s bus station (Map p769; %952 35 00 61;
busy little retro cafe caters to a mainly Spanish Paseo de los Tilos) is just 1km southwest of the
crowd. In the mornings, it does brisk breakfast city centre. Frequent buses travel along the
business with savoury-filled soft rolls (mol- coasts, and others go to Seville (€16, 2½ hours,
letes), croissants and strong, creamy coffee, nine or more daily), Granada (€10, 1½ to two
starting at around €3.50. hours, 17 daily), Córdoba (€12.50, 2½ hours,
La Vidriera (Map770; %952 228 943; Marqués de five daily), Antequera (€5, 1 hour, 13 daily)
Guadiaro 2; hmidnight-late) Next to the popular and Ronda (€9.50, 2½ hours, nine or more
Liceo music bar in this lively part of the city,
ANDALUCÍA

daily). Nine buses also run daily to Madrid

each table in the long upper room of this bar (€21.50, six hours), and a few go up Spain’s
is fitted with its own tap for pulling long cold Mediterranean coast. There are services to
glasses of Alhambra beer. A range of raciones France, Germany, Holland, Portugal and
is available for soaking up the amber liquid, Morocco too.
from around €4 to €12.
CAR
Entertainment Numerous international and local agencies
Teatro Cervantes (Map p770; %952 36 02 95; www have desks at the airport, many with small
.teatrocervantes.com; Calle Ramos Marín s/n; hclosed cars for around €170 per week.
mid-Jul–Aug) The palatial Cervantes has a fine
program of music, theatre and dance. TRAIN
Liceo (Map p770; Calle Beatas 21; h9pm-1am Thu-Sat) The main station, Málaga-Renfe (Map p769; %952
A grand old mansion turned young music 36 02 02; Explanada de la Estación), renamed the María
bar, which buzzes with a student crowd after Zambrano in 2007, is round the corner from
midnight. Go up the winding staircase and the bus station. The superfast AVE service
discover more rooms. runs to Madrid (€71.20 to €79.20, 2½ hours,
Warhol (Map p770; Calle Niño de Guevara; h11pm- six daily).
late Thu-Sat) A stylish haunt for gay clubbers Trains also go to Córdoba (€19, 1 hour, 10
who want an upmarket atmosphere in which daily), Seville (€17.30/33, 2½ hours/2 hours,
to enjoy the funky house beats mixed by five daily) and Barcelona (€58.40 to €129.40,
dreadlocked DJs. 13/6½ hours, two daily). For Granada (€13.45,
Asúcar (Map p770; cnr Calles Convalescientes & Luzcano; 2½ hours) and Ronda (€8.85, 1½ hours mini-
h9pm-late) Salsa fans need go no further. mum) you need to change at Bobadilla.
Casual salsa classes from 9pm to 10.30pm
Tuesday to Saturday. Getting Around
Tetería El Harén (Map p769; Calle Andrés Pérez 3) TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
A large teahouse that rambles over several The Aeropuerto train station on the Málaga–
floors with lots of private nooks. Live music Fuengirola line is a five-minute walk from
Thursday to Saturday evenings. the airport (follow signs from the departures
lonelyplanet.com M Á L A G A P R O V I N C E • • C o s t a d e l S o l 775

hall). Trains run about every half-hour, succeeded very well indeed, at the cost of
6.49am to 11.49pm, to Málaga-Renfe station turning a spectacular coastline into an eye-
(€2, 11 minutes) and Málaga-Centro station. stinging, unbroken series of untidy, crowded
Trains depart for the airport between 5.45am townscapes. In July and August it’s best to
and 10.30pm. ring ahead for a room. Outside these peak
Bus 19 to the city centre (€1.10, 20 minutes) months, many room rates drop sharply.
leaves from the ‘City Bus’ stop outside the A convenient train service links Málaga’s
arrivals hall, every 20 or 30 minutes, 6.35am Renfe and Aeropuerto stations with
to 11.45pm, stopping at Málaga-Renfe train Torremolinos (€1.20), Arroyo de la Miel
station and the bus station en route. Going (€1.35) and Fuengirola (€2.50). Buses from
out to the airport, you can catch the bus at Málaga link all the resorts, and services to
the western end of Paseo del Parque and from places such as Ronda, Cádiz, Seville and
outside the stations, about every half-hour Granada go from the main resorts.
from 6.30am to 11.30pm. The AP7 Autopista del Sol motorway by-
A taxi from the airport to the city centre passes all the costa towns, with tolls amount-
costs €20 to €24 depending on traffic and ing to €9.00 (€14 from June to September and
pickup location. during Semana Santa) for the full 80km. The
Metro Málaga (%902 93 49 44; www.metrodemalaga old coast road, the N340, continues to carry
.info) Málaga is responding to green issues and plenty of traffic and you need to take care
citizen pressure by building its own Metro on it: don’t let other drivers force you into
system, with the first section of track, from the going too fast, and watch out for animals and
port towards the city centre and including the inebriated pedestrians.
train station, set to launch in 2010.
Even greener initiatives include guided Torremolinos
cycle tours of the city (see p772), which offer pop 48,000

ANDALUCÍA
access to fascinating hidden corners of the city ‘Torrie’, which led the Costa del Sol’s mass tour-
that other forms of transport just can’t reach. ism boom of the 1950s and ’60s, is a concrete
Another fun way to get around Málaga is high-rise jungle designed to squeeze as many
to hire a Trixi through Tricosol (%657 440605; paying customers as possible into the smallest
www.bike2malaga.com; Calle Victoria 15, h11am-8pm daily) possible space. It spruced itself up somewhat
These curvaceous electric-powered cars can in the 1990s, and a pleasant seafront walk, the
be hired for anything from a 15-minute trixi Paseo Marítimo, now extends for nearly 7km
ride (€6) to a one-hour guided tour of the city and gives some cohesion and character to the
(€18), with pedal-power provided. They offer resort. Torremolinos has a big gay scene.
a green and pleasant way of touring Málaga,
and can normally be hailed from in front of ORIENTATION & INFORMATION
the cathedral. Torremolinos’ main pedestrian artery is
Calle San Miguel, running most of the 500m
COSTA DEL SOL from Plaza Costa del Sol (on the main road
Strewn along the seaboard from Málaga al- through town) down to Playa del Bajondillo.
most to Gibraltar, the Costa del Sol stretches Southwest of Playa del Bajondillo is Playa de
like a wall of wedding cakes several kilometres la Carihuela, once the fishing quarter.
thick. Its recipe for success is sunshine, con- The bus station (%952 38 24 19; Calle Hoyo) is
venient beaches (of grey-brown sand), cheap northeast of Plaza Costa del Sol. Buses to
package deals and bountiful nightlife and en- Marbella stop on Avenida Palma de Mallorca,
tertainment. The costa (coast) is also a haven 200m southwest of Plaza Costa del Sol. The
for sport lovers, with around 40 golf clubs, train station (Avenida Jesús Santos Rein) is off Calle
several busy marinas, tennis courts, riding San Miguel.
schools, swimming pools, gyms and beaches Tourist office (%952 37 95 12; www.ayto-torremolinos
offering every imaginable water sport. .org; Plaza Pablo Picasso; h9.30am-12.30pm Mon-Fri, Oct-
The resorts were once fishing villages, but May, 10am-2pm & 6-8pm every day Jun-Sep) In the town
there’s little evidence of that now. The Costa hall. There are also offices on Playa Bajondillo
del Sol was launched as a 1950s development (%952 37 19 09; h10am-2pm) and Playa Carihuela
drive for impoverished Andalucía, and it has (%952 37 29 56; h10am-2pm).
 776 M Á L A G A P R O V I N C E • • C o s t a d e l S o l Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES ming pools, go-go dancers and singers in both
Torrie’s beaches are wider, longer and a slightly venues. The gay ‘in crowd’ hangs out in the
paler shade of grey-brown than most on the new bars and clubs in La Nogalera, the area
costa, and they get very crowded. The local close to Torremolinos train station. Check
attractions are mostly child-oriented. In the out the trendy El Gato Lounge (La Nogalera, hfrom
more upmarket Puerto Deportivo (marina) 4pm till late) or girls’ bar Ánfora.
at Benalmádena Costa, just southwest of
Torremolinos, Sea Life (%952 56 01 50; www.sealife Fuengirola
europe.com; adult/child €11.95/8.85; h10am-10pm Jun, to pop 65,000
midnight Jul-Sep, to 6pm Oct-May) is a good modern Fuengirola, 18km down the coast from
aquarium of mainly Mediterranean marine Torremolinos, has more of a family scene
creatures, with organised games and shark feed- but is just as densely packed. The streets be-
ing. Tivoli World (%952 57 70 16; www.tivolico.es; Avenida tween the beach and Avenida Matías Sáenz
de Tivoli; admission €6; hnoon-7pm Sun Oct-Apr, 12-8pm May; de Tejada (where the bus station is) delineate
5pm-1am Jun, 6pm-2am Jul-Sep), just five minutes’ walk what’s left of the old town, with Plaza de la
from Benalmádena-Arroyo de la Miel train sta- Constitución at its centre. The train station
tion, is the biggest amusement park on the costa. (Avenida Jesús Santos Rein) is a block further inland.
The Supertivolino ticket (€12) gives unlimited The tourist office (%952 46 74 57; Avenida Jesús Santos
access to more than 35 rides. Rein 6; h9.30am-2pm & 5-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) is
near the train station.
SLEEPING & EATING The Hipódromo Costa del Sol (%952 59 27 00;
A couple of dozen hostales and hotels are within www.carreraentertainment.com; Urbanización El Chaparral;
a few minutes’ walk of Torremolinos’ train and admission €5; h10pm-2am Sat Jul-Sep, 11.30am-4pm Sun
bus stations. The tourist offices have lists. Oct-Jun), Andalucía’s leading horse-racing track
Red Parrot (%952 37 54 45; www.theredparrot.net; with regular racing, is off the N340 at the
ANDALUCÍA

Avenida Los Manantiales 4; s/d €35-50/46-60; as) southwestern end of Fuengirola.

Newly refurbished and central, this place of-
fers comfortable balconied rooms around a SLEEPING & EATING
patio, and it has a pool. Hostal Italia (%952 47 41 93; Calle de la Cruz 1; s/d €37/57;
Hotel Miami (%952 38 52 55; www.residencia-miami a) Welcoming and notably friendly, this
.com; Calle Aladino 14, Torremolinos; s/d €41/62; as) A clean and comfortable budget option in old-
white castle-style villa amid tropical gardens, fashioned Spanish style is a couple of blocks
100m from La Carihuela beach. from the beach. There’s a big, tiled sun terrace
La Fonda Benalmádena (%/fax 952 56 82 73; www on the roof.
.fondahotel.com; Calle Santo Domingo 7, Benalmádena Pueblo; Hostal Marbella (%952 66 45 03; www.hostalmarbella
s/d incl breakfast €73/103; pais) Charming .info; Calle Marbella 34; s €44-53, d €64-73; ai) Run by
hotel with large rooms built around Islamic- a dedicated Swedish couple, this place is also
style patios with fountains, and an excellent, excellent value for money, with big, spotless
moderately priced restaurant. rooms and gleaming bathrooms. It’s in the
Besides British breakfasts and beer, centre of town, just minutes from the beach.
Torremolinos has no shortage of good sea- Hotel El Puerto (%952 47 01 00; www.hotel-elpuerto
food places, many of them lining the Paseo .com; Paseo Maritimo 32; s incl breakfast €75-82, d incl
Marítimo in La Carihuela. breakfast €104-134; as) A big, modern, three-
star hotel on the beach with sea views and a
ENTERTAINMENT rooftop pool.
The weekend nightlife at Benalmádena Restaurante Portofino (%952 47 06 43; Paseo
Costa’s Puerto Deportivo pulls a youthful, Marítimo 29; mains €15-20; hclosed Mon) An interna-
zesty crowd from all along the coast. The tional menu features an ocean of classic fish
bars start to throb after midnight on Friday dishes, and white tablecloths and aproned
and Saturday. International visitors come to waiters denote a slightly smarter dress code
Torremolinos to party hard. Passion (Avenida than beachwear.
Palma de Mallorca 18) and Palladium (Avenida Palma de
Mallorca 36), two of Torremolinos’ hottest clubs, Mijas
boast two floors, three different atmospheres, This village of winding Muslim-origin streets
international DJs, live performances, swim- and white buildings situated in the hills 8km
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels M Á L A G A P R O V I N C E • • C o s t a d e l S o l 777

north of Fuengirola is now surrounded by SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

villas and urbanizaciones (housing estates) Pretty Plaza de los Naranjos, with its 16th-century
and full of busloads up from the costa. But it town hall, is at the heart of the largely pedestri-
remains a strikingly pretty place, and the Casa anised, postcard-perfect old town. Nearby are
Museo de Mijas (%952 59 03 80; Calle Málaga; admission the Iglesia de la Encarnación (Plaza de la Iglesia), begun
free; h10am-2pm & 4-7pm Sep-Mar, afternoons 5-8pm Apr- in the 16th century, and the Museo del Grabado
Jun, 6-9pm Jul-Aug) gives a poignant glimpse into Español Contemporáneo (Museum of Contemporary Spanish
life in the area before the 1960s tourist deluge. Prints; %952 76 57 41; Calle Hospital Bazán s/n; admission
There are good hotels and lots of restaurants, €3, free Sat; h9am-2pm & 6-9pm Tue-Fri, 9am-2pm Mon &
cafes and craft shops. Frequent buses run Sat). In beautifully uncluttered vaulted rooms,
from Fuengirola (€1, 25 minutes). you can see work by Picasso, Joan Miró and
Parque Acuático Mijas (%952 46 04 04; www.aqua Salvador Dalí, among others.
mijas.com; N340, km209, Mijas Costa, Málaga; admission The charming Museo Bonsai (%952 86 29 26; adult/
adult/under 12/under 4 €16/11/free; h10.30am-5.30pm child €4/2; h10.30am-1.30pm & 4-6.30pm, evenings Jul-Aug 5-
28 Apr-31 May, 10am-5pm Jun, 10am-7pm Jul-Aug, 10am-6pm 8pm), devoted to the Japanese miniature-tree art,
Sep) A big leisure park dedicated to water and is in Parque Arroyo de la Represa just northeast
happily screaming kids. Attractions include of the old town. Stroll through this fascinating,
the Labyrinth toboggan slide, gentler kiddie open-air art gallery – and take as many photos
slides and river thrills. There are two big self- as you like. It’s wheelchair accessible.
service restaurants and picnic facilities. The Avenida del Mar, leading down to the cen-
park is just minutes from Fuengirola’s bus tral Playa de Venus, a standard Costa del Sol
and train terminals, with ample free park- beach, is peppered with crazed sculptures by
ing, or you can catch the Acuático bus from Salvador Dalí. For a longer, broader stretch
Fuengirola bus station. This runs every half of sand walk to the 800m Playa de la Fontanilla,
hour from 10.15am to 4.30pm, and costs or Playa de Casablanca beyond Playa de la

ANDALUCÍA
€1.25. Fontanilla. All walks along the seafront are
full of life, noise and colour, especially when
Marbella it cools down after 8pm in high summer.
pop 132,000 Puerto Banús, the Costa del Sol’s flashiest
Overlooked by the dramatic Sierra Blanca marina, is 6km west of Marbella. Some truly
28km west of Fuengirola, Marbella has been enormous floating palaces are tied up here.
the Costa del Sol’s glossiest resort since the Marbella’s ‘spend, be seen, have fun’ ethos
1950s. Yet Marbella proper and its Casco is at its purest in Puerto Banús, with a con-
Antiguo or old town has little to do with the stant parade of the glamorous, the would-be
conspicuous consumption of the notorious glamorous and the normal in front of the
Golden Mile, heading west towards Puerto boutiques and busy restaurants strung along
Banús. Instead, you can enjoy a resort where the waterfront.
Spanish holidaymakers balance the interna- There are good walks in the Sierra Blanca,
tional visitors and a variety of shops, bars starting from the Refugio de Juanar, a 17km
and restaurants offer real-world food and drive north of Marbella.
goods at real world prices.
SLEEPING
ORIENTATION Hostal Paco (%952 77 12 00; www.hostalpacomarbella
The N340 through town takes the names .com; Calle Isaac Peral 16; s/d 40/65; ai) Located
Avenida Ramón y Cajal and Avenida Ricardo in a pleasant, pedestrianised part of the old
Soriano. The old town is centred on Plaza de town, Hostal Paco has good-sized rooms
los Naranjos. and very good bathrooms. Staff are helpful.
Marvel at the great black-and-white photos
INFORMATION in reception.
Hospital Costa del Sol (%952 82 82 50; Carretera Hostal Berlin (%952 82 13 10; www.hostalberlin
N340 Km187) Big public hospital 6km east of the centre. .com; Calle San Ramón 21; s/d/tr €45/65/80; pai)
Municipal tourist office (www.marbella.es in Spanish; A very friendly hostal simply but brightly
h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-2.30pm Sat, closed Sun); furnished and with spotless shower rooms,
Fontanilla (% 952 77 14 42; Glorieta de la Fontanilla); on a quiet street parallel to Calle La Luna.
Naranjos (%952 82 35 50; Plaza de los Naranjos 1) Breakfast is €3.
 778 M Á L A G A P R O V I N C E • • C o s t a d e l S o l Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

0 200 m
MARBELLA 0 0.1 miles

INFORMATION EATING Albergue

Juvenil
Municipal Tourist Office..........1 A4 Café Bar El Estrecho...............13 C3 Marbella
Tourist Office..........................2 C2 El Balcón de la Virgen............14 C2
To Bus Station
La Comedia...........................15 C3 (600m)
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES La Taberna del Pintxo.............16 B3

Trapi
Parque

Av e
Iglesia de la Encarnación..........3 C3 Restaurante Santiago.............17 C4 Arroyo de

ch
Museo Bonsai..........................4 D1 Restaurante Skina..................18 C2 C San Dieg o la Represa
Museo del Grabado Español da
ue

C San Franci
Contemporáneo..................5 D3 r R Plaza 4

C Lobatos
do
va

iñals
al Leganitos

C
CS

Va
SLEEPING

C
tor V
C Postig
len

de
Hostal Berlin............................6 D3

sco
tu

lAl
ña

C
Hostal La Luna.........................7 D3

Av

ba
Doc

de
na

lB
de
Hostal Paco..............................8 C2

C Bermeja

oq
C Aduar
Plaza

Mer

ue
Hotel Central...........................9 D3

Av

rón
Santo Old
Hotel La Morada Mas

c ad o
edo Cristo Town To AP7 toll
uev

C
Hermosa............................10 C2 highway (1km);

lo
C Fra ncisco Q
C Princesa Príncipe

sN
Princesa Playa Hotel.............. 11 D4 18 Refugio de Juanar
10

C Ancha

ar
(17km)

an
Town House.......................... 12 D3
ada

jo
Port

s
n

Me son
C
C de orró C
To Dreamer’s (5km); Jacin C Ch

C
Puerto Banús (6km); t o Ben avente 14

Ar
C
esón s
cillo
Estepona via N340 al a
el

Es
Haza del M

te
Per

cu
(20km) u
C 8 s eñ

ela
23 lero
C Los Caba2l

CP
C Buitrag o Plaza San
22 Plaza de Plaza de Bernabé
la Victoria 15 Ios Naranjos d 5
Av nida
Rica Plaza de C Tri to
C Pantaleón

rdo n
C Huerta

Sor 13 la Iglesia Vie

Chica

ian os C C de Málag
C Álam
Av Arias

C Alonso de Bazán o 21 3 a
C Not

C de
CR

Sol
12
amiro Ca

C San Ramón
C San Cristóbal
ario Lu

C La Luna
Maldonado
ANDALUCÍA

A
Plaza de la v Ra 7

Av de Nabeu
e n ez
Norte
is

16 Trav Alameda mó

te
F u gu
mpos

cisco n
C Fran CM
la drí
En

y 6
C P ue C

acki
riq

Ca
Ro
no

ntos
Oliver

ad an
Turmo

Parque h jal C e
r

oa
l Ca

Ma
re to

de la d Och
vero
e Se
igue

del

Constitución
s

e
l Ma

l
lón F ue
rt Av d To Hospital
tonio Be El
erta
Av M

Av An Av Costa del Sol (6km);

e

áneo
Av d

Fuengirola via A7
Av Pu

(25km)
diterr

Av de España 17
1 Hotel
El Fuerte
C Me

Glorieta de la Paseo Marítimo 11

Fontanilla
Duqu
e de Ah u m a d a
Playa de la 20 Playa de Venus
Fontanilla 19
(Playa de El Fuerte)
TRANSPORT
Bus 2 for Bus Station............. 21 C3
ENTERTAINMENT Buses for Fuengirola...............22 A3
MEDITERRANEAN Colonial Café.........................19 B4 Buses for Puerto Banús, San Pedro
SEA Puerto Locos.....................................20 B4 de Alcántara, Estepona......23 A2
Deportivo

Hostal La Luna (%952 82 57 78; Calle La Luna 7; s/d/q on a tranquil, flowery, old-town street. Just
€56/75/100; a) Calle La Luna is one of four pe- six rooms, some with spiral stairs up to the
destrian lanes dotted with decent hostales just bathrooms, with decor as warm and friendly
east of the centre and close to the beach. Big, as the staff.
balconied rooms with fridges and spotless bath- o Town House (% 952 90 17 91; www
rooms overlook an internal patio, everything is .townhouse.nu; Calle Alderete 7; s/d incl breakfast €115/130;
well looked after and it’s a peaceful spot. ai) Occupying a traditional town house,
Hotel Central (%952 90 24 42; www.hotelcentral with nine chic rooms, the Swedish-owned
marbella.com; Calle San Ramón 15; s/d €63/78; ai) A Town House reminds you what a luxury hotel
cut above the neighbouring hostales, Hotel is for: to pamper you with feather bedding
Central enjoys the same quiet location but has and leather sofas, cashmere throws and great
15 large, tasteful rooms, all with airy black- coffee; to serve you a healthy fruit and Greek
and-white tiled bathrooms. yogurt breakfast, and to send you out again at
Hotel La Morada Mas Hermosa (%952 92 44 67; peace with yourself and the whole world. This
www.lamoradamashermosa.com; Calle Montenebros 16A; is a high-class hotel with heart and is worth
s/d €80/99; ai) A small, personable hotel every centimo.
lonelyplanet.com M Á L A G A P R O V I N C E • • C o s t a d e l S o l 779

Princesa Playa Hotel (%952 82 09 44; www.princesa DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT

playa.com; Avenida Puerta del Mar s/n; s €117-59, apt €133-99; Marbella’s revamped Puerto Deportivo (ma-
pais) With great sea views, this mod- rina) now provides an entertaining after-dark
ern apartment hotel represents relatively good scene without the sleaze. Head for Colonial Café
value for money on the seafront. Rooms are (%952 86 85 77; h6pm-3am or later), a hip disco-
very well equipped and bathrooms are newly pub playing funky-house and reggae-dub, or
refurbished. Locos (h1.30pm-4am or later), at the back of the
marina, with an alternative feel. In the old
EATING town, Calle Pantaleón has a string of popular
Dining in Marbella doesn’t necessarily mean cervecerías (beer bars).
chichi interiors and bikini-size portions at The busiest nightlife zone in the Marbella
whale-sized prices. There are some authentic area is at Puerto Banús, where dozens of pubs
tapas bars and a few trendy restaurants doing and varied dance clubs cluster along a couple
delicious, good-value cuisine. of narrow lanes behind the marina. The seri-
Café Bar El Estrecho (%952 77 00 04; Calle San Lázaro ous big-name clubs cluster around the ‘Golden
12; tapas €2.10-2.60) This is a good, busy old-town Mile’ (the 5km road between Marbella and
tapas bar. Puerto Banús). Dreamer’s (%952 81 20 80; www
La Taberna del Pintxo (Avenida Miguel Cano 7; tapas .dreamers-disco.com in Spanish; Carretera de Cádiz 175, Río
€1-2) Grab a table and a plate and choose from Verde) mix of tribal, vocal and light shows,
a huge range of hot and cold tapas, such as bongo beats and an ever-changing menu of
the goats’ cheese tart with cranberry jelly. At DJs gives house-lovers a chance to truly let
the end of the evening, the little swords or their hair down.
toothpicks from each tapa are counted and
you are charged accordingly. This big, busy GETTING THERE & AROUND
Half-hourly buses to Fuengirola (€2.65, 1¼

ANDALUCÍA
bar is just a block or two from the beach and
all the evening paseo action. hours), Puerto Banús (€1.10, 20 minutes)
El Balcón de la Virgen (%952 77 60 52; Calle Virgen and Estepona (€2.51, 1¼ hours) have stops
de los Dolores; mains €9-18; hclosed Sun) One of the on Avenida Ricardo Soriano. Other services
best restaurants near Plaza de los Naranjos, use the bus station (%952 76 44 00; Avenida Trapiche),
this has a lovely summer terraza overlooked 1.2km north of Plaza de los Naranjos. Bus 7
by a 300-year-old grieving Virgin and a (€1.10) runs between the bus station and the
large bougainvillea, vibrant pink against central Fuengirola/Estepona bus stop (Avenida Ricardo
the bright blue paintwork. The fare is Soriano); returning to the bus station, take bus
typical Andalucian. 2 from Avenida Ramón y Cajal.
La Comedia (%952 77 64 78; www.lacomedia.net; Plaza Marbella’s streets are notoriously traffic-
de la Victoria; mains €10.50-20) Along with popular clogged. Fortunately there are a number of
first-floor tables looking down on the little pay car parks (Map p778) where you can take
plaza, a charming candlelit room, and a mix of refuge on arrival.
interesting art and photography on the walls,
you get a very warm welcome from the Irish Estepona
hosts and good selection of classic, Spanish pop 50,000
and international dishes for carnivores and Estepona, southwest of Marbella, has con-
vegetarians alike. trolled its development relatively carefully
Restaurante Santiago (%952 77 00 78; Paseo Marítimo and remains a fairly agreeable seaside town.
5; mains €18-28; hclosed Nov) Santiago is right on The big attraction here is the popular safari
the seafront, offering top-class seafood. The park, Selwo Aventura (%902 19 04 82; www.selwo.es;
waiters wear black and the tables wear white, Carretera A7 (Autovia Costa del Sol) Km162.5, Las Lomas del
so you need to dress accordingly. Monte; admission €33, 3-7yr €23; h10am-6pm mid Feb-Jun
Restaurante Skina (%952 76 52 77; Calle Aduar 12; & Oct, to 8pm Jul-Sep, closed early Dec-early Feb), 6km east
mains €25-29; h7-11.30pm Mon-Sat) A good bet for of town, with over 200 exotic animal spe-
an imaginative meal, tiny Skina is great for cies. Buses 110 and 120 (Autobuses Portillo)
outdoor dining on summer evenings. Try sole run to Selwo from Málaga via Torremolinos,
with lime and ginger or suckling pig with ‘a Fuengirola and Marbella (phone Selwo
trio of textured apples’. for information).
 780 M Á L A G A P R O V I N C E • • E l C h o r r o & B o b a s t r o Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

EL CHORRO & BOBASTRO pas) The best option in El Chorro, this

pop (El Chorro) 100 converted flour mill has beautifully decorated
Fifty kilometres northwest of Málaga, Río apartments and excellent food.
Guadalhorce and the main railway in and out Finca La Campana (%952 11 20 19; www.el-chorro
of Málaga both pass through the awesome .com; dm €12, d €29, 2-8-person apt €42-96; as) More
Garganta del Chorro (El Chorro Gorge), which is than just a great place to stay, with cottage-
4km long, up to 400m deep and as little as 10m style accommodation in one of Andalucía’s
wide. The gorge is a magnet for rock climbers, most stunning landscapes, this is also a club
with hundreds of varied routes of almost every of like-minded adrenaline junkies, with a cult
grade of difficulty. Anyone can view the gorge following to show. During the climbing sea-
by walking along the railway from the tiny El son (October to March) the Finca is very busy,
Chorro village (ask locally for directions). The so book ahead. To get there follow signs from
view provides an adrenaline rush all by itself. behind Apartamentos La Garganta.
Swiss-owned Finca La Campana (right), which
is popular with adventure-lovers, offers climb- Getting There & Away
ing courses, climbing, caving, kayaking and Trains run to El Chorro from Málaga (€3.65,
mountain-bike trips, and bike rentals (€8 to 45 minutes, two daily except Sunday and holi-
€18 per day). One thrilling outing is its five- days), from Ronda (€5.80, 70 minutes, one
hour climbing trip along the Camino del Rey daily except Sunday and holidays) and Seville
(King’s Path), a crumbling concrete catwalk (€14.45, two hours, one daily). No buses run
clinging to the gorge wall 100m above the to El Chorro. Drivers can get there via Álora
river – worth every céntimo of the €90 (one (south of El Chorro) or Ardales (west of
to three people). El Chorro).
Near El Chorro is Bobastro, the hilltop
RONDA
ANDALUCÍA

redoubt of the 9th-century rebel, Omar ibn

Hafsun, a sort of Islamic Robin Hood, who pop 37,000 / elev 744m
led a prolonged revolt against Cordoban rule. Perched on an inland plateau riven by the 100m
Ibn Hafsun at one stage controlled territory fissure of El Tajo gorge and surrounded by the
from Cartagena to the Strait of Gibraltar. From beautiful Serranía de Ronda, Ronda is the most
El Chorro village, follow the road up the far dramatically sited of all the pueblos blancos.
(western) side of the valley and after 3km take Just an hour north of the Costa del Sol, it is
the signed Bobastro turning. Nearly 3km up nevertheless a world away from the coastal
here, an ‘Iglesia Mozárabe’ sign indicates a scene. Ronda attracts its quota of visitors, many
500m path to the remains of a remarkable little of them weekenders from Seville, Málaga or
Mozarabic church cut from the rock, the shape Córdoba, especially during the hotter months.
so blurred by time that it appears to have been With its setting, quaint old Islamic town and
shaped by the wind alone. It’s thought that Ibn a romantic place in Spanish folklore, Ronda has
Hafsun converted from Islam to Christianity fascinated travellers from Dumas to Hemingway
(thus becoming a Mozarab) before his death and beyond. For most of the Islamic period,
in 917 and was buried here. When Córdoba it was the capital of an independent statelet,
finally conquered Bobastro in 927, the poor and its near-impregnable position kept it out
chap’s remains were taken for grisly posthu- of Christian hands until 1485. Modern-day
mous crucifixion outside Córdoba’s Mezquita. alternative-lifestylers have set up home in and
At the top of the hill, 2.5km further up the road around the town, adding an artsy touch.
and with unbelievable views, are faint traces of
Ibn Hafsun’s rectangular Alcázar (fortress). Orientation
The old Muslim town, called La Ciudad,
Sleeping & Eating stands on the southern side of El Tajo. The
Pensión Estación (%952 49 50 04; r without bathroom newer town to the north has most of the ac-
€25) At tiny El Chorro station, this pensión has commodation and restaurants, and the bus
clean, basic rooms run by a helpful family, and and train stations. Three bridges span the
its Bar Isabel, a renowned climbers’ gathering gorge, the main one being the Puente Nuevo.
place, serves platos combinados (€5 to €7). Both parts of town end abruptly on their west-
Apartamentos La Garganta (%952 49 50 00; ern side in cliffs plunging away to the valley
www.lagarganta.com; 2-/4-person apt €75/115; mains €12; of Río Guadalevín.
lonelyplanet.com M Á L A G A P R O V I N C E • • R o n d a 781

Information Regional tourist office (%952 87 12 72; www

Banks and ATMs are mainly on Calle Virgen .andalucia.org; Plaza de España 1; h9am-7.30pm Mon-
de la Paz and Plaza Carmen Abela. Fri May-Sep, to 6pm Oct-Apr, 10am-2pm Sat)
Municipal tourist office (%952 18 71 19; www
.turismoderonda.es; Paseo de Blas Infante; h10am- Sights
7.30pm Mon-Fri May-Sep, to 6pm Oct-Apr, 10.15am-2pm PLAZA DE ESPAÑA & PUENTE NUEVO
& 3.30-6.30pm Sat, Sun & holidays) Helpful and friendly The majestic Puente Nuevo (New Bridge),
staff with a wealth of information on the town and region. spanning El Tajo from Plaza de España, the

0 200 m
RONDA 0 0.1 miles

To Cueva de la Pileta (19km);

Sierra de Grazalema (20km);
Arcos de la Frontera (86km);
Seville (132km)
Train
Station

a
dob
Cór
lu cía 24

de
C J

da
An
osé

Av
de To El Burgo (26km);

Av
Av Antequera (87km)
Ma

Ma
23
ría

Plaza
Av

rt
C

Cas

íne
Concepción
C
Mo
Do

García Redondo

z
tel

de
cto

ló

As
lino

Mo

Plaza

tei
r

del
C

n
Flem

nt

Ahorro
Ma

ere

é ia
Jos aur
i ng

dri

jas

n L
Sa C
d

de
C
il
C

tes ten
C

an
de

zo Inf
Do

C Se

Po

ANDALUCÍA
11
Se

C C
c to

Iglesia
v

l
Pau
rR
illa

de la
am

Merced

de
ón

El e
C

Iglesia nt
y

Mercadillo ice
Na

de los
Ca

Paseo de
rón

V
Descalzos
ra

jal

las Inglesas bi

n
Sou ra
nja

Sa
no re
aria 15 el ab Plaza de los C
CM Iglesia de pin CC Descalzos
C

Alameda Nuestra Señora Es ría Ca12

l
C Censio
M

del Tajo de pit

a

del Socorro
As

M
ari

je de ra án
alvo

a e
C
na

Pas orreo s ar r Co
C Plaza del C Plaza rté
s
dro Socorro CarmenC San INFORMATION
18 C Pe ero Abela ta
Ro m Cec Municipal Tourist Office.............1 B3
a s i
C V C Josicio

Plaza de n d lía Regional Tourist Office...............2 B3

Ti e
Plaza Toros
irgen é

la s
Teniente C SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Ap

Arce
ta

i
de la

a m Baños Árabes.............................3 C4
ar

1 uev Er
C N 22 C
Bla
Pas Infan

17 Casa del Rey Moro.................... 4 C4

C
s

Paz

20
eo te

2 nu ev a Iglesia de Santa María La Mayor..5 B5

19
M

Vill a
de

Plaza de C
ad
C

Lo La Mina...................................(see 4)
re

España s R
e d i o s Museo del Bandolero.................6 B5
Pe

El m e
14
tra

Ta Iglesia de Mondragón...............7 B5
Palacio
Puente
Rí

jo 8 a l de Nuestro
e
o

Gu Nuevo G R Padre Jesús

ada or C SLEEPING
levín ge
En Frente Arte............................8 C4
C Santo 4 Hotel Alavera de los Baños.........9 C5
D o ming Puente Hotel Montelirio.......................
Ar 10 B4
o Viejo
10 ro
Hotel Morales...........................11 B2
yo
ra

16 Puente Hotel San Francisco..................12 C3

atier

La Ciudad Árabe Hotel San Gabriel.....................13 B4

o

Salv
ori

Puerta de Parador de Ronda....................14 B4

la Exijara
Ten

13
e
sd

Plaza María 3
C

EATING
é
rqu

Auxiliadora
C Jo s é M H

Chocolat..................................15 B3
Ma

Plaza del Restaurante Albacara...............16 B4

C

Campillo 9 Restaurante del Escudero..........17 B3

7 Plaza 5 Restaurante Pedro Romero.......18 B3
Hoyo San Miguel
olgad

Mondragón Restaurante Tragabuches.........19 B3

6
o

Tragatapa.................................20 B3
Plaza 21
Duquesa DRINKING
de Parcent
C d

El Choque Ideal........................21 C5
e

To Restaurante Almocábar (140m); Taberna del Antonio.................22 B3

Arm

Bodega San Francisco (160m);

Parque Natural Sierra de las Nieves (25km);
iñán

San Pedro de Alcántara (47km); TRANSPORT

Costa del Sol (47km); Bus Station................................23 B1
Jimena de la Frontera (62km); Minibuses to Plaza de España...24 C1
Algeciras (102km)
 782 M Á L A G A P R O V I N C E • • R o n d a Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

main square on the north side of the gorge, flung over shoulders, together with the tools
was completed in 1793. Folklore claims that of the bandit trade, and some of their spoils.
its architect, Martín de Aldehuela, fell to his The museum is wheelchair accessible.
death while trying to engrave the date on the Beside the museum, a long flight of cobbled
bridge’s side. Chapter 10 of Hemingway’s For steps leads down to an impressive stretch of
Whom the Bell Tolls tells how, early in the La Ciudad’s old walls. Follow the path down
Spanish Civil War, the ‘fascists’ of a small to the beautiful horseshoe arches of the 13th-
town were clubbed and flailed by townspeople and 14th-century Baños Árabes (Arab Baths; %656
‘in the plaza on the top of the cliff above the 950937; Hoyo San Miguel; admission €3; h10am-7pm Mon-
river’, then thrown over the cliff. The episode Fri, to 3pm Sat & Sun), the best preserved baths on
was based on real events in Ronda, though the the whole Iberian Peninsula. From the north-
perpetrators were from Málaga. ern side of the nearby Puente Viejo (1616) you
can make your way back up to Plaza de España
LA CIUDAD via a small park along the gorge’s edge.
The old Muslim town retains a typical
medieval Islamic character of twisting PLAZA DE TOROS & AROUND
narrow streets. Ronda’s elegant bullring (%952 87 41 32; Calle
The first street to the left, after you cross Virgen de la Paz; admission €6; h10am-8pm Apr-Sep, to
the Puente Nuevo, leads down to the Casa 6pm Oct-Mar) is one of the oldest in Spain – it
del Rey Moro (%952 18 72 00; Calle Santo Domingo 17). opened in 1785 – and has seen some of the
This romantically crumbling 18th-century most important events in bullfighting history.
house, supposedly built over the remains of It was here, in the 18th and 19th centuries,
an Islamic palace, is itself closed, but you can that three generations of the Romero family –
visit its cliff-top gardens and descend the 200 Francisco, Juan and Pedro – established the
basics of modern bullfighting on foot. The
ANDALUCÍA

dimly lit steps of La Mina (gardens & La Mina adult/

child €4/2; h10am-7pm), an Islamic-era stairway bullring’s museum is crammed with mem-
cut inside the rock right down to the bottom orabilia, spectacular costumes and photos
of the gorge (take care!). of famous fans including Hemingway and
Back uphill, enjoy the views from Plaza Orson Welles.
María Auxiliadora. Nearby is Palacio de Mondragón Vertiginous cliff-top views open out from
(%952 87 84 50; admission €2; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to Paseo de Blas Infante, behind the Plaza de Toros,
3pm Sat & Sun), now an engaging museum, built and the leafy Alameda del Tajo nearby.
for Abomelic, the ruler of Ronda in 1314. Of its
three courtyards, the Patio Mudéjar still pre- Festivals & Events
serves an Islamic character. A horseshoe arch During the first two weeks of September
leads into a small cliff-top garden. Various dis- Ronda’s Feria de Pedro Romero (an orgy of party-
plays draw you into prehistoric caves, with hi- ing, including the important flamenco Festival
larious wax figures depicting early lifestyles. de Cante Grande) takes place. It culminates in
A minute’s walk southeast is Plaza Duquesa the Corridas Goyesca (bullfights in honour of
de Parcent, where the Iglesia de Santa María La legendary bullfighter Pedro Romero).
Mayor (%952 87 22 46; admission adult/senior/student
€3/2/1.50; h10am-8pm Apr-Oct, 6pm Nov-Mar), as grand Sleeping
as a cathedral, stands on the site of Islamic Hotel Morales (%952 87 15 38; Calle de Sevilla 51;
Ronda’s main mosque. The church’s tower s/d €25/42; a) A small hotel with 18 pleasant
and the handsome galleries beside it date from rooms and thorough information on the town
Islamic times, and just inside the entrance is and nearby parks.
an arch, covered with Arabic inscriptions, EnFrente Arte (%952 87 90 88; www.enfrentearte.com;
which was the mosque’s mihrab. Calle Real 40; r incl breakfast & all drinks €70-130; ais)
Nearby, the amusing Museo del Bandolero Everything about this bohemian-style hotel
(%952 87 77 85; Calle de Armiñán 65; admission €3; is vivid and fun, from the modern–oriental
h10.30am-8pm Apr-Sep, to 6pm Oct-Mar) is dedicated decor clash to the rainbow colours and variety
to the banditry for which central Andalucía of the (superb) breakfast, to the quirky rooms
was renowned in the 19th century. One dash- themselves. There’s even a bright green para-
ing mannequin vaguely resembles Bryan keet terrorising the white bunnies in the patio
Ferry, and there are plenty of stripy blankets pet corner. Definitely different.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels M Á L A G A P R O V I N C E • • R o n d a 783

Hotel San Francisco (%952 87 32 99; www.hotelsan San Francisco, a little off the tourist path, tiny
franciscoronda.com; Calle María Cabrera 18; s/d incl breakfast Almocábar features inspired and exceptional
€38/60; a) This is possibly the best budget cooking, with a surprising range of vegetarian
option in Ronda, offering a warm welcome. It salads, as well as meaty classics and fish. The
was recently refurbished and upgraded from salad with goats’ cheese, walnuts, apples and
hostal to hotel, with facilities to match includ- mango purée is outstanding. Finish your meal
ing wheelchair access. with a tangerine sorbet that tastes like all the
Hotel Alavera de los Baños (%952 87 91 43; www tangerines in the world concentrated into one
.andalucia.com/alavera; Hoyo San Miguel s/n; s/d incl breakfast shimmering scoop. Booking advisable.
€65/85; as) A magical hotel with style echoes Restaurante Pedro Romero (%952 87 11 10; Calle
of the Arab baths next door, this one-time tan- Virgen de la Paz 18; mains €17.50-22; hclosed Sun & Mon din-
nery is sumptuously decorated, with a flower- ner Jul/Aug) This celebrated eatery, dedicated to
filled patio and pool. The sultan-sized baths bullfighting, turns out classic Ronda dishes –
are carved from a type of stucco, and their a good place to try the famously man-food
pink tinge is due to natural pigments. A place oxtail dish, rabo de toro.
to pamper yourself. Restaurante Albacara (%952 16 11 84; Calle Tenorio 8;
Hotel San Gabriel (%952 19 03 92; www.hotelsan meals €18-22) Situated in the old stables of gorge-
gabriel.com; Calle José M Holgado 19; s/d €68/96; ai) side Hotel Montelirio, the Albacara serves
This charming, historic hotel with a country up creative meals in an elegant environment,
house ambience is filled with antiques and with plate-glass windows designed to make
photographs chronicling Ronda’s history. the most of the stupendous views.
There is a poetry collection and deep arm- Restaurante del Escudero (%952 87 13 67; Paseo
chairs to read in, you can watch old movies de Blas Infante 1; mains €18-25, menú €13.50; hclosed Sun
in the miniature cinema and your breakfast evening & Mon) Sister restaurant of Restaurante
croissant comes from an artisan baker. This Tragabuches with more reasonable prices, set

ANDALUCÍA
attention to detail extends to the elegant rooms in an attractive garden.
to create a very special place to stay. Restaurante Tragabuches (%952 19 02 91; Calle José
Hotel Montelirio (%952 87 38 55; www.hotelmonte Aparicio 1; mains €27-32; hclosed Mon) Sleek, modern
lirio.com; Calle Tenorio 8; s/d €100/150-165; pais) Tragabuches is famous for its creativity. Try
Sensitively converted mansion with sump- venison and sweet potatoes or pork trotters
tuous fittings and magical views of Ronda’s with squid and sunflower seeds.
gorge from rooms that cost a little more.
Charming rooms incorporate antique acces- Drinking
sories, there is an inviting bar and restaurant, El Choque Ideal (%952 16 19 18; www.elchoqueideal
and staff seem to enjoy looking after you. .com; Calle Espíritu Santo 9; h9.30am-3am Feb-Oct, 1pm-
Parador de Ronda (%952 87 75 00; www.parador 1am Nov-Jan) This funky cafe has fantastic views.
.es; Plaza de España s/n; s/d €127/159; pais) It puts on a host of events from films out on
Acres of shining marble and deep-cushioned the terrace to live bands.
furniture give this modern parador a certain In Calle Los Remedios you can stop for a
appeal. The terrace is a wonderful place to cold cerveza at ever-popular Taberna del Antonio
drink in views of the gorge with your coffee (Calle Los Remedios 22). Down in the Barrio San
or wine, especially at night. Francisco try the heaving Bodega San Francisco
(Calle Ruedo Alameda). Several jolly cafes and res-
Eating taurants spill out on pedestrianised Calle
Traditional Ronda food is hearty moun- Nueva in the newer north side of town. Try
tain fare that’s big on stews, trout, game Tragatapa at No 4, with inventive tapas such as
such as rabbit, partridge and quail, and, of salmon marinaded in vanilla with lime zest.
course, oxtail.
Chocolat (Calle de Seville 18; breakfast from €2.20) An Getting There & Away
elegant cafe where you can choose from a long BUS
list of teas, coffees, breakfasts and a boggling From the bus station (Plaza Concepción García
array of cakes and pastries. Redondo 2), Los Amarillos (%952 18 70 61) goes to
oBar Restaurant Almocábar (%952 87 59 Málaga (€9.11, two hours, at least four daily),
77; Calle Ruedo Alameda 5; tapas €2, mains €12-20; h1.30- Grazalema (€2.46, 35 minutes, two daily) and
5pm & 8pm-1am Wed-Mon, closed Aug; v) In the Barrio Seville (€10.85, 2½ hours, three to six daily);
 784 M Á L A G A P R O V I N C E • • A r o u n d R o n d a lonelyplanet.com

Comes (%952 87 19 92) has three or four buses it was pressed and compacted to form ice.
daily to Arcos de la Frontera (€8.14, two Tightly covered until summer, mule teams
hours), Jerez (€10.67, 2½ hours) and Cádiz would then transport huge blocks of ice into
(€13.74, 2½ hours); and Portillo (%952 87 22 neighbouring towns, to sell at astronomi-
62) runs to Málaga (€10.21, 1½ hours, at least cal prices. Today, this 180-sq-km protected
three daily) via Marbella. area, southeast of Ronda, offers some excellent
walks. Torrecilla (1910m), the highest peak
TRAIN in the western half of Andalucía, is a five- to
The train station (%952 87 16 73; Avenida de Andalucía) six-hour (return) walk from Área Recreativa
is on the highly scenic Granada–Algeciras Los Quejigales, which is 10km east by un-
line. Trains run to/from Algeciras (€6.70 to paved road from the A376 Ronda–San Pedro
€17.50, 1¾ hours, six daily), Granada (€12.25, de Alcántara road.
2½ hours, three daily) via Antequera, Córdoba Cerro de Hijar (%952 11 21 11; www.cerrodehijar
(€18 to €29.50, 2½ hours, two daily) and Málaga .com/eng; Carretera del Balneario, Sierra de las Nieves; d €86;
(€8.85, two hours, one daily except Sunday). For pais) Just above the dazzling white
Seville, change at Bobadilla or Antequera. village of Tolox and just within the park, at
650m above sea level, this tastefully deco-
Getting Around rated hotel is generous with its room sizes,
Minibuses operate every 30 minutes to Plaza decoration, sweeping views and the range of
de España from Avenida Martínez Astein, activities it cheerfully organises for guests,
across the road from the train station. including mountain biking, guided walks and
4WD excursions.
AROUND RONDA
The beautiful green hills of the Serranía de ANTEQUERA
pop 43,000 / elev 575m
ANDALUCÍA

Ronda, scattered with sugar-cube white vil-

lages, stretch in all directions from Ronda. Set on the edge of a plain 50km north of
This area has many traditional houses con- Málaga, with rugged mountains to the south
verted into gorgeous rural accommodation. and east, the handsome provincial town of
For information try Ronda’s municipal Antequera is a mass of red-tiled roofs punctu-
tourist office, www.serraniaronda.org and ated by 30 church towers. Here hides one of
www.rusticblue.com. the richest historical legacies in Andalucía.
Antequera’s ‘golden age’ was during the 15th
Cueva de la Pileta and 16th centuries.
Palaeolithic paintings of horses, goats, fish and
even a seal, dating from 20,000 to 25,000 years Orientation & Information
ago, are preserved in this large cave (%952 16 73 The old heart of Antequera is below the
43; adult/student/child €8/5/5; hhourly tours 10am-1pm & 4- northwestern side of the hill, crowned by the
6pm), 20km southwest of Ronda. You’ll be guided Islamic Alcazaba, which dominates the town-
by kerosene lamp and one of the knowledgeable scape, as big and simple as a child’s drawing.
Bullón family from the farm in the valley below. The main street, Calle Infante Don Fernando,
A family member found the paintings in 1905. runs northwest from Plaza de San Sebastián.
The Cueva de la Pileta is 250m (signposted) off Tourist office (%952 70 25 05; www.antequera.es; Plaza
the Benaoján–Cortes de la Frontera road, 4km de San Sebastián 7; h11am-2pm & 5-8pm Mon-Sat, to
from Benaoján. Guides speak a little English. 2pm Sun)
If it’s busy, you may have to wait, but you can
phone ahead to book a particular time. Sights
The main approach to the Alcazaba (Fortress)
Parque Natural Sierra de las Nieves passes through the Arco de los Gigantes, built in
This precious area of rare natural diversity, a 1585 and incorporating stones with Roman
Unesco Biosphere Reserve, also has an unu- inscriptions. What remains of the Alcazaba af-
sual history of human endeavour. For hun- fords great views. Just below it is the Colegiata
dreds of years before refrigeration, the snow de Santa María la Mayor (Plaza Santa María; h10am-
sellers of the region would gather at the end 2pm & 4.30-6.30pm Tue-Fri, 10.30am-2pm Sat, 11.30am-2pm
of the winter to shovel tonnes of snow into Sun), a 16th-century church with a beautiful
containers and transport it to huge pits, where Renaissance facade.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels M Á L A G A P R O V I N C E • • A r o u n d A n t e q u e r a 785

The pride of the Museo Municipal (Plaza del international fare. A pleasant, traffic-free spot
Coso Viejo; tour €3; h10am-1.30pm & 9-11pm Wed & Fri, for lunch or dinner.
10-1.30pm Sat, 11am-1.30pm Sun) is Efebo, a beautiful
1.4m bronze Roman statue of a patrician’s ‘toy Getting There & Away
boy’, unearthed near Antequera in the 1950s – The bus station (Paseo Garcí de Olmo s/n) is 1km
one of the finest pieces of Roman sculpture north of the city centre. At least 12 daily buses
found in Spain. run to/from Málaga (€6.75, one hour), and
Only the most jaded would fail to be im- three to five each to/from Osuna (€6.50, one
pressed by the Iglesia del Carmen (Plaza del Carmen; hour), Seville (Prado de San Sebastián; €10.75,
admission €1.50; h10am-2pm) and its marvel- two hours), Granada (€8.25, 1¼ hours) and
lous 18th-century Churrigueresque retable. Córdoba (€8.25, 1½ hours). The ticket of-
Carved in red pine and in beautiful detail by fices shut down completely between 2pm
Antequera’s Antonio Primo, it is encrusted and 5pm.
with angels, saints, popes and bishops who The train station (Avenida de la Estación) is 1.5km
seem to fly through the air, so finely rendered north of the city centre. Two to four trains a
are their garments. day travel to/from Granada (€8, 1½ hours),
Some of Europe’s largest megalithic tombs Seville (€13, 1¾ hours) and Ronda (€5.80,
stand on the fringes of Antequera. The Dolmen 1¼ hours). For Málaga or Córdoba, change
de Menga and Dolmen de Viera (admission free; at Bobadilla.
h9am-5.45pm Tue-Sat, 9.30am-2.15pm Sun) are 1km
from the city centre, on the road leading AROUND ANTEQUERA
northeast to the A45. In about 2500 or 2000 El Torcal
BC the local folk managed to transport dozens Sixteen kilometres south of Antequera, Nature
of huge rocks from nearby hills to construct has sculpted this 1336m mountain into some of
these earth-covered tombs for their chieftains. the weirdest, most wonderful rock formations

ANDALUCÍA
Menga is 25m long, 4m high and composed you’ll see anywhere. Its 12 sq km of gnarled,
of 32 slabs, the largest weighing 180 tonnes. pillared and deeply fissured limestone began
You can walk across the utterly modern mar- life as seabed about 150 million years ago.
ble courtyard to enter this simple yet power- Two marked walking trails, the 1.5km ‘Ruta
ful relic of an unimaginably distant past. It Verde’ (Green Route) and the 3km ‘Ruta
could have been built yesterday to house one Amarilla’ (Yellow Route), start and end near
of Andalucía’s proliferating dance venues. the information centre.

Sleeping & Eating Laguna de Fuente de Piedra

You can’t get much more central than the This shallow lake, close to the A92 20km
smartly refurbished Hotel San Sebastián (%/fax northwest of Antequera, is one of Europe’s
952 84 42 39; Plaza de San Sebastián 5; s/d €27/43; ai) two main breeding grounds for the spec-
Its terrace is the best perch on the plaza to tacular greater flamingo (the other is France’s
watch the evening paseo. At Hotel Coso Viejo Camargue). After a wet winter as many as
(%952 Calle Encarnación 9; www.hotelcosoviejo.es; s/d incl 20,000 pairs of flamingos breed at the lake.
breakfast €50/65; pai), a converted 17th- They arrive in January or February, with the
century neoclassical palace in the heart of chicks hatching in April and May, and stay
Antequera, rooms are set around a handsome till about August.
patio with a fountain; there’s a pleasant cafete- The Centro de Información Fuente de Piedra
ria and restaurant. In a quiet area north of the (%952 11 17 15; h10am-2pm & 6-8pm), at the lake,
bullring, the ultra-modern Parador de Antequera on the edge of Fuente de Piedra village, hires
(%952 84 02 61; www.parador.es; Paseo García del Olmo s/n; out binoculars. Three to six daily buses (€1.10,
s/d €95/118; pas) is set amid pleasant gar- 30 minutes) run between Antequera bus sta-
dens with wonderful views. It’s due to reopen tion and Fuente de Piedra village.
after its refurbishment by November 2008.
Restaurante La Espuela (%952 70 30 31; Calle San EAST OF MÁLAGA
Agustín 1; mains €12-21; hclosed Mon) In a charming The coast east of Málaga, sometimes called
cul-de-sac off Calle Infante Don Fernando, the Costa del Sol Oriental, is less developed
La Espuela plays background jazz and offers than the coast to the west, but is striving hard
a fine selection of Antequeran specialities and to fill the gaps.
 786 M Á L A G A P R O V I N C E • • E a s t o f M á l a g a Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

Behind the coast, La Axarquía, a region dot- delicious and exotic food combinations but
ted with white villages (of Islamic origin) nouvelle-size portions in a gorgeous setting
linked by snaking mountain roads, climbs overlooking the sea.
to the sierras along the border of Granada Hotel Paraíso del Mar (%952 52 16 21; www.hotel
province. There’s good walking here (best in paraisodelmar.com; Calle Prolongación de Carabeo; s/d €105-
April and May, and from mid-September to 123/120-135 incl breakfast; pais) To the east
late October). Once impoverished and forgot- of the centre above Playa Carabeo, the Paraíso
ten, La Axarquía has experienced a surge of del Mar has great sea views and a range of
tourism and an influx of expat residents in spa facilities, as well as beautifully decorated
recent years. Jacuzzi bathrooms. There is a private access
gate to Burriana beach and a pool overlook-
Nerja ing the sea.
pop 16,500
Nerja, 56km east of Málaga, is older, whiter EATING
and a little more charming than the towns to Merendero Ayo (%952 52 12 53; Playa Burriana; mains
its west, though still inundated by (mainly €9-13) One of the best feeds in town is at this
British) tourism. The tourist office (%952 52 always-busy open-air restaurant on Nerja’s
15 31; www.nerja.org; Puerta del Mar; h10am-2pm & 6- best beach. You can down a plate of paella,
10pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun May-Oct, 10am-2pm & 5-8pm cooked on the spot in great sizzling pans, then
Nov-Apr) is just off the Balcón de Europa prom- go back for a refill.
enade and lookout point, which has gorgeous Casa Luque (Plaza Cavana 2; mains €15-21; hclosed
coastal vistas. The best beach is Playa Burriana, Sun lunch & Wed) Casa Luque has a wonder-
on the eastern side of town. fully panoramic terrace and, with an elegant
haute-Med menu, more character than most
ANDALUCÍA

SLEEPING Nerja eateries. The interior, with its high

Rooms in the better hotels get booked up well ceilings, is a cool and classy refuge from the
in advance for the summer period. ever-bustling streets.
Hostal Mena (%952 52 05 41; hostalmena@hotmail A Taste of India (%952 52 00 43; Calle Carabeo 51;
.com; Calle El Barrio 15; s/d €25/40; ai) A short dis- mains €8-13, hclosed Tue) This fantastic Goan-
tance west of the tourist office, this friendly style Indian place serves delicious coconut
hostal has immaculate rooms (some with sea curry and a range of curry favourites cooked
views) and a pleasant garden. One of the old- on the spot. It has deservedly kept its popular-
est hotels in town, it offers a tranquil retreat ity for some years.
from the bustling beach life outside.
Hostal Miguel (%952 52 15 23; www.hostalmiguel ENTERTAINMENT
.com; Calle Almirante Ferrandiz 31; s/d €38/52) Straddled Nightlife focuses on the aptly named Tutti-
between two streets in the old town, this Frutti Plaza, with an international clutch of
friendly English-run place has good rooms bars and clubs. Check out what’s on at the
with a Moroccan theme and a pleasant roof admirable Centro Cultural Villa de Nerja (%952
terrace. The proprietor is friendly and helpful, 52 38 63; Calle Granada 45).
with loads of information on things to see and
do around Nerja. GETTING THERE & AWAY
Hostal Marissal (%952 52 01 99; www.marissal.com; From the N340 near the top of Calle Pintada,
Balcón de Europa; s/d €45/60; ai) Right by the Alsina Graells (%952 52 15 04) runs to Málaga
Balcón de Europa, the Marissal delights with (€3.69, one hour, 14 daily), Almuñécar (€2.40,
its soothingly clean, quiet and comfortable 25 minutes, up to 13 daily), Almería (€11.68,
rooms decked with tasteful art, and a good 2½ hours, nine daily) and Granada (€8.85, 1½
restaurant. This is hotel accommodation at hours, two to three daily).
hostal prices.
Hotel Carabeo (% 952 52 54 44; www.hotel Around Nerja
carabeo.com; Calle Carabeo 34; d/ste incl breakfast €91/198; The big tourist attraction is the Cueva de Nerja
pais) This small, chic hotel is full of (%952 52 95 20; www.cuevadenerja.es; adult/child €7/3.50;
stylish antiques and set above well-tended h10am-2pm & 4-6.30pm, later in Jul & Aug), just off the
gardens right on the cliff-edge. Its Restaurante N340, 3km east of town on the slopes of the
34 (mains €17.50-25.50, hclosed end Oct-Apr) offers Sierra Almijara mountains. This enormous
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels C Ó R D O B A P R O V I N C E • • C ó r d o b a 787

cavern remains impressive, like some vast past a quarry, the summit path (1½ hours),
underground cathedral, 225 million years marked by a signboard, diverges to the right
in the making. Large-scale performances in- across a stream bed.
cluding ballet and flamenco are staged there
throughout the summer. About 14 buses run SLEEPING & EATING
daily from Málaga and Nerja, except Sunday. Hotel Balcón de Cómpeta (%952 55 35 35; www
The whole site is very well organised for large- .hotel-competa.com; Calle San Antonio 75; s/d €50/68;
scale tourism and has a huge restaurant and pas)Cómpeta’s only hotel has com-
car park. A full tour of the caves takes about fortable rooms with balconies, a good res-
45 minutes. taurant, a bar, a big pool and a tennis court.
Further east the coast becomes more rug- Staff are friendly and helpful and speak good
ged, and with your own wheels you can head English. It’s also wheelchair accessible.
out to Playa El Cañuelo and other scenic, if stony, You can book houses, apartments and
beaches down tracks from the N340, about rooms through Cómpeta Direct (www.competa
8km to 10km from Nerja. direct.com).
The two best restaurants, both serving ex-
Cómpeta & Around cellent and varied Spanish/international food,
pop 3500 / elev 640m are El Pilón (%952 55 35 12; Calle Laberinto; mains €11-
The hill village of Cómpeta, 17km inland, 18.50; h8-12pm) and Cortijo Paco (%952 55 36 47;
is a popular base for exploring La Axarquía Avenida Canillas 6; mains €10-15; h8-12pm, closed Mon).
and the mountains, although it’s in danger In summer ask for an upstairs terrace table
of being overwhelmed by heavy construction at either place.
traffic and estate agents as the costa building
boom spreads uncontrollably up the inland
valleys. It is very popular with summer home CÓRDOBA PROVINCE

ANDALUCÍA
owners from northern Europe, with a size- Córdoba city was capital of Al-Andalus
able Danish community. There’s a tourist office and at its zenith was home to the glittering
(%952 55 36 85; Avenida de la Constitución; h10am-2pm court of Abd ar-Rahman III. While history
& 3-6pm Wed-Sun, Tue-Sat Jul-Sep) by the bus stop at remains the tourist magnet, Córdoba also
the foot of the village. Three or four buses celebrates new talent in its prestigious an-
run daily from Málaga (€3.50, two hours) via nual Guitar Festival, its daring fusion cui-
Torre del Mar. sine, and startling glimpses of steel, glass
and rusty metal architecture. Beyond the
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES city stretches an essentially rural province
A few kilometres down the valley from that produces some of Andalucía’s best olive
Cómpeta, Árchez has a beautiful Almohad oil and wine.
minaret next to its church. From Árchez a
road winds 8km southwest to Arenas, where a CÓRDOBA
steep but driveable track climbs to the ruined pop 302,000 / elev 110m
Islamic Castillo de Bentomiz, which crowns a Standing on a sweep of Río Guadalquivir
hilltop. Los Caballos del Mosquín (%608 658108; Córdoba is a handsome, conservative city.
www.horseriding-andalucia.com), just outside Canillas Apart from its great historical attractions, it
de Albaida, 2km northwest of Cómpeta, offers also features some of the region’s best res-
horse rides in the mountains lasting from one taurants and taverns, though there is a small
hour to several days. An exhilarating long but growing nightlife scene. The best time
walk is up the dramatically peaked El Lucero to visit is between temperate mid-April and
(1779m), from whose summit, on a clear day, mid-June, when the city’s patios and lanes,
you can see both Granada and Morocco. This like the Calleja de las Flores, are at their
is a demanding full-day return walk from fragrant best.
Cómpeta, but it’s possible to drive as far
up as Puerto Blanquillo pass (1200m) via a History
slightly hairy mountain track from Canillas The Roman colony of Corduba, founded
de Albaida. From Puerto Blanquillo a path in 152 BC, became capital of Baetica prov-
climbs 200m to another pass, the Puerto de ince, covering most of today’s Andalucía.
Cómpeta. One kilometre down from there, In 711 Córdoba fell to the Muslim invaders
 788 C Ó R D O B A P R O V I N C E • • C ó r d o b a lonelyplanet.com

and soon became the Islamic capital on the nals and efficient internet access, although no internet
Iberian Peninsula. It was here in 756 that access available if you are on Mac.
Abd ar-Rahman I set himself up as emir Hospital Reina Sofia (%957 21 70 00; Avenida de
of Al-Andalus. Menéndez Pidal s/n) Located 1.5km southwest of the
Córdoba’s heyday came under Abd ar- Mezquita.
Rahman III (912–61). The biggest city in Luque Libros (Calle José Cruz Conde 19; h9.45am-
Western Europe had dazzling mosques, li- 1.30pm & 5pm-8.30pm, to 1.30pm Sat) Sells city and
braries, observatories and aqueducts, a uni- Michelin maps cheaper than the tourist shops near the
versity and highly skilled artisans in leather, Mezquita.
metal, textiles and glazed tiles. And the multi- Municipal tourist office (%957 20 05 22; Plaza de
cultural court was frequented by Jewish, Arab Judá Levi; h8.30am-2.30pm Mon-Fri)
and Christian scholars. Policía Nacional (%95 747 75 00; Avenida Doctor
Towards the end of the 10th century, Al- Fleming 2)
Mansour (Almanzor), a fearsome general, Post office (Calle José Cruz Conde 15)
took the reins of power and struck terror into Regional tourist office (%957 35 51 79; Calle de Tor-
Christian Spain with over 50 razzias (forays) rijos 10; h9am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-3pm Sat, Sun
in 20 years. But after his death bands of Berber & holidays) Facing the western side of the Mezquita, this
troops terrorised Córdoba and the caliphate helpful office offers information on the city and surround-
descended into anarchy. ing countryside.
Córdoba’s intellectual traditions, however,
lived on. Twelfth-century Córdoba produced Sights & Activities
two of the most celebrated of all Al-Andalus Opening hours for Córdoba’s sights change
scholars: the Muslim Averroës (Ibn Rushd) frequently, so check with the tourist offices
and the Jewish Maimonides. These poly- for updated times. Most places (except the
maths are best remembered for their philo- Mezquita) close on Monday. Closing times
ANDALUCÍA

sophical efforts to harmonise religious faith are generally an hour or two earlier in winter
with reason. than summer.
In 1236, Córdoba was captured by Fernando
III of Castilla and became a provincial town of MEZQUITA
shrinking importance. The decline began to It’s hard to exaggerate the beauty of the
be reversed only with the arrival of industry Córdoba mosque (%957 47 05 12; adult/child €8/4;
in the late 19th century. In common with h10am-7pm Mon-Sat Apr-Oct, to 6pm Mon-Sat Nov-Mar,
other Andalucian cities in recent years, the 9-10.45am & 1.30-6.30pm Sun year-round), one of the
culture, artefacts and traditions of Al-Andalus great creations of Islamic architecture, with
have enjoyed a growing revival of scholarly its shimmering golden mosaics and rows of
and popular interest. In fact, in 2016, when red-and-white-striped arches disappearing
Córdoba aspires to be the European Capital into infinity.
of Culture, its status may well have come Emir Abd ar-Rahman I founded the
full circle. Mezquita in 785 on the site of a Visigothic
church that had been partitioned between
Orientation Muslims and Christians. In the 9th and 10th
The fascinating part of Córdoba is the World centuries, the Mezquita was enlarged and
Heritage–listed medieval city, a labyrinth of embellished until it extended over nearly
narrow streets focused on the Mezquita, which 23,000 sq metres in total, making it one of the
is immediately north of Río Guadalquivir. The biggest mosques in the world. Its 14,000-sq-
main square of modern Córdoba is Plaza de metre prayer hall incorporated 1293 columns,
las Tendillas, 500m north of the Mezquita. some of which had stood in the Visigothic
church, in Roman buildings in Córdoba and
Information even in ancient Carthage. Today 856 of the
Most banks and ATMs are around Plaza de las columns remain.
Tendillas and Avenida del Gran Capitán. The What we see today is the Mezquita’s original
bus and train stations have ATMs. architectural form with two big changes: a
Ch@t (Calle Claudio Marcelo 15; per hr €1.80; h9am- 16th-century cathedral plonked right in the
1.30pm & 4.30-8.30pm Mon-Fri Nov-Mar, 9.30am-1.30pm middle (which explains the often-used de-
& 5.30-8.30pm Apr-Oct, 10am-1.30pm Sat) Many termi- scription ‘Mezquita-Catedral’); and the closing
lonelyplanet.com C Ó R D O B A P R O V I N C E • • C ó r d o b a 789

0 200 m
CÓRDOBA 0 0.1 miles

To Parador Nacional
ela
ng u Arruzafa (2km)
ere

C Ac
y M ba aB
Fra o oñ ric
a
C Córd D

era G
de mé
de C d eA
Av

uerri
Plaza de

Av del Gran
Colón

ta
49

47 es

C
Av de C
jar

apitán
Te Plaza de
Train os
el Don Gome
ca ad

C Ma
Station a

a ño
éri Jardines od e g
C la B nd
ervante

Am de la Ro
de

C
Av Agricultura Av

n c had
2

C del
C José

l Osario
ufo
C Juan R
s

C Arte

o
C Carbonelly Morand

M ar ta
Cruz
To Medina

de Arenales
5

C Conde
C de
Azahara
C Cóer
de V

(8km)

Cond
C Hernán R

C Santa
C Alfaros
ledo
C Rob
rdovaz
C Alonrgsoos

acru
de B u

e
Plaza San C Conde
ngora Miguel de Torres lo
n Pab C Villal
C Gó Cabrera
e Sa
Victoria
ica Argentina

ones
38 e Alfon Cd
Cd so XIII
CC 42 C More r í a
Paseo de la

onc C Conde 41
e pción
Gondomade Plaza
r arcelo
de las C Claudio M
Av de la Republ

C San Felipe

43
Tendillas 1 ba C Pedro L ópe z
rdo

RM
C Jesús Mari a

Có
Jardines

C Diario de
37

arín
Diego de Plaza de la
Rivas C
R Sán Corredera
chez C Pomp
ra eyos 21
C Lope de H ale
oces nV C Maes
C Jua e Lui

C de
C s
Ba C Ta
rro rnillo
so
San F

ANDALUCÍA
13
ués
Plaza arq lar
Ángel Plaza de M il
er
C C del V os
nand
Torres B
Be aln Jerónimo
C Conde lm co Páez C de sco er
ci in
y Luque on
te San Fran s 14 e L 33
o

C de los
26 R Barro d
Judíos 22 C C
ión

17
C Cé s

CA 30 39
C V Bosco s

25
r na c

Re C
a de l 45 y H de an
o
Puertodóvar
eläz

a nz 36 ra
m

40 ibe
n ca

u
pe d e
Deanes

ere
c

or L
Alm la R
CO

24 de
q ue

d ia
C

8
CE

CR e
om 25 C d To A4 (1.5km);
Cd

19 o
z

erre
r 32 seo
si o

9 29 ero Jaén (108km)

C M Pa
e Ca

H Rü c ke r
34 rdenal 16
Av

Plaza de
15 Maimónides C Ca
C MG Fran

4 35 10
D

irua

18 Plaza 31
z
oc

Cd
ue

27 44
agi cés
to

Santa
na

r
nri

a
rF

ivi
eT

stra

un 3 Catalina
Ma

L Plaza
Vallellano

lem

lqu
orr

C
l

de Judá sa
r da
C
ing

12 ido rda
rraquer

sa
ijos

28 Leví e g I a
rr e
Co l a C a d e Gu Acera
6 C de nd o
s uis
Río L Ro Rí Mira
de

C Doctor Ba

46 l os al Río
e
Av Conde

or d
Calle mad
To La Ciudad de Postrera CA 48 Puerta
los Niños (700m); del
Hospital Reina Puente Puente
o
Sofia (1km) 7 Romano ist
Cr
ar to
sili n

z
an
Ba Sa

11
lcá
o

S
C

l
A

INFORMATION To Zoo & Wildlife Centre (300m); de

el

C
d

Ch@t..................................................1 C3 Seville (143km); Granada (160km);

Av

Málaga (165km) 20
Luque Libros......................................2 C2
Plaza
Municipal Tourist Office.....................3 B4 SLEEPING Santa
Policía Nacional..................................4 B4 Casa de Los Azulejos........................21 D3 Teresa
Post Office.........................................5 C2 Hostal el Reposo de Bagdad.............22 B3
Regional Tourist Office.......................6 C4 Hostal Maestre.................................23 D3 DRINKING
Hostal Osio de Códoba....................24 C4 Amapola.......................................... 39 D3
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Hostal Séneca...................................25 C4 Bodega Guzmán...............................40 B4
Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos...........7 C5 Hotel Albucasis.................................26 C3 Soul................................................. 41 D2
Casa Andalusí.....................................8 B4 Hotel Amistad Córdoba....................27 B4
Casa de Sefarad..................................9 B4 Hotel González.................................28 B4 ENTERTAINMENT
Hammam Baños Árabes...................10 C4 Hotel Lola........................................29 C4 Gran Teatro de Córdoba...................42 B2
Islamic Water Wheel........................11 C5 Hotel Maestre..................................30 D3 Jazz Café......................................... 43 D3
Mezquita.........................................12 C4 Hotel Mezquita................................31 C4
Museo Arqueológico........................13 C3 SHOPPING
Museo de Bellas Artes....................(see 14) EATING Ghadamés........................................44 C4
Museo Julio Romero de Torres.........14 D3 Bar Santos........................................32 C4 Meryan............................................45 C4
Museo Taurino.................................15 B4 Bodega Campos...............................33 D3
Patio de los Naranjos........................16 C4 Casa Pepe de la Judería....................34 C4 TRANSPORT
Posada del Potro..............................17 D3 Comedor Árabe-Andalusí.................35 C4 Blobject............................................46 B4
Puerta del Perdón.............................18 C4 El Churrasco.....................................36 B4 Bus 3 to City Centre.........................47 A1
Sinagoga..........................................19 B4 Taberna Salinas................................ 37 D3 Bus 3 to Train Station.......................48 C4
Torre de la Calahorra....................... 20 D5 Taberna San Miguel.........................38 C2 Bus Station.......................................49 A1
 790 C Ó R D O B A P R O V I N C E • • C ó r d o b a lonelyplanet.com

The mosaics give this part of the Mezquita

CÓRDOBA’S PATIOS the aura of a Byzantine church.
For centuries Córdoba’s leafy patios have After the Christians captured Córdoba, the
provided summer shade and a place to Mezquita was used as a church. In the 16th
talk and entertain. The tradition, probably century the centre of the building was torn out
Roman, was continued by the Arabs, with to allow construction of a cathedral compris-
the happy addition of a central fountain. ing the Capilla Mayor, now adorned with a rich
In the first half of May, you’ll notice ‘Patio’ 17th-century jasper and marble retablo, and
signs in Córdoba’s narrow streets, inviting the coro (choir), with fine 18th-century carved
you to view blooming gardens. Many patios mahogany stalls.
compete for the annual Concurso de Patios
Cordobéses. The tourist office provides a JUDERÍA
map of patios that are open for viewing, Jews were among the most dynamic and
usually between 5pm and midnight week- prominent citizens of Islamic Córdoba. The
days, noon to midnight weekends. Those medieval judería, extending northwest from
around Calle de San Basilio, about 400m the Mezquita almost to Avenida del Gran
west of the Mezquita, are among the best. Capitán, is today a maze of narrow streets
Entrance is free, though voluntary donations and whitewashed buildings with flowery
are sometimes welcomed. window boxes.
The beautiful little 14th-century Sinagoga
(Calle de los Judíos 20; admission adult/EU citizen €0.30/free;
of the 19 doors, which would have filled the h9.30am-2pm & 3.30-5.30pm Tue-Sat, to 1.30pm Sun &
Mezquita with light. The main entrance is holidays) is one of only three surviving medi-
the Puerta del Perdón, a 14th-century Mudéjar eval synagogues in Spain and the only one
gateway on Calle Cardenal Herrero, with in Andalucía. In the late 1400s it became a
ANDALUCÍA

the ticket office immediately inside. Beside hospital for hydrophobics. Translated Hebrew
the Puerta del Perdón is a 16th- and 17th- inscriptions eroded in mid-sentence seem like
century tower built around the remains of the poignant echoes of a silenced society. The Casa
Mezquita’s minaret. Inside the gateway is the Andalusí (Calle de los Judíos 12; admission €2.50; h10.30am-
aptly named Patio de los Naranjos (Courtyard 8.30pm, to 6.30pm Nov-Mar) is a 12th-century house
of the Orange Trees), originally the mosque’s furnished with objects from Córdoba’s medi-
ablutions courtyard, from which a door leads eval Islamic culture and a Roman mosaic.
inside the prayer hall itself. In the heart of the judería, and once con-
From this door you can see straight ahead nected by an underground tunnel to the
to the mihrab, the prayer niche in a mosque’s Sinagoga, is the 14th-century Casa de Sefarad
qibla (the wall indicating the direction of (%957 42 14 04; www.casadesefarad.es;h10am-6pm
Mecca) that is the focus of prayer. The first Mon-Sat, 11am-2pm Sun; admission €4) Opened in
12 transverse aisles inside the entrance, a for- 2008 on the corner of Calle Judios and Calle
est of pillars and arches, comprise the original Averroes, this small, beautiful museum is de-
8th-century mosque. The columns support two voted to reviving interest in the Sephardic–
tiers of arches, necessary to give the build- Judaic–Spanish tradition. There is a refreshing
ing sufficient height and maintain its sense focus on music, domestic traditions and on
of openness. the women intellectuals – poets, singers and
In the centre of the building is the Christian thinkers – of Al-Andalus. A specialist library
cathedral. Just past the cathedral’s western end, of Sephardic history is housed here, and a
the approach to the mihrab begins, marked by there’s a well-stocked shop. A program of
heavier, more elaborate arches. Immediately live music recitals and storytelling events runs
in front of the mihrab is the maksura, the royal most of the year.
prayer enclosure (today enclosed by railings) Nearby, the Museo Taurino (Bullfighting Museum;
with its intricately interwoven arches and %957 20 10 56; Plaza de Maimónides; admission €3, free
lavishly decorated domes created by Caliph Fri; h10am-2pm & 4.30-6.30pm Tue-Sat Oct-Apr, to 2pm
Al-Hakim II in the 960s. The decoration of & 5.30-7.30pm Tue-Sat May-Jun & Sep-Oct, 8.30am-2.30pm
the mihrab portal incorporates 1600kg of gold Tue-Sat Jul-Aug, 9.30am-2.30pm Sun & holidays year-round)
mosaic cubes, a gift from the Christian em- celebrates Córdoba’s legendary toreros,
peror of Byzantium, Nicephoras II Phocas. with rooms dedicated to El Cordobés and
lonelyplanet.com C Ó R D O B A P R O V I N C E • • C ó r d o b a 791

Manolete, and even the forlorn, pegged- A former hospital houses what is, surpris-
out hide of Islero, the bull that fatally gored ingly enough, Córdoba’s most visited mu-
Manolete in 1947. Closed throughout 2008 seum, the Museo Julio Romero de Torres (%957 49
and much of 2009 for extensive repairs. 19 09; Plaza del Potro 1; admission €3, free Fri; h10am-2pm
& 4.30-6.30pm Tue-Sat mid-Oct-Apr, to 2pm & 5.30-7.30pm
ALCÁZAR DE LOS REYES CRISTIANOS Tue-Sat May-Jun & Sep–mid-Oct, 8.30am-2.30pm Jul-Aug,
Just southwest of the Mezquita, the Alcázar, 9.30am-2.30pm Sun & holidays year-round), devoted to
or Castle of the Christian Monarchs (%957 42 01 revered local painter Julio Romero de Torres
51; Campo Santo de Los Mártires s/n; admission adults/stu- (1873–1930). Romero de Torres specialised in
dents/senior €4/2, free Fri; h10am-2pm & 4.30-6.30pm sensual yet sympathetic portraits of Cordoban
Tue-Sat mid-Oct–Apr, 10am-2pm & 5.30-7.30pm Tue-Sat women. In the same building is the Museo de
May-Jun & Sep–mid-Oct, 8.30am-2.30pm Tue-Sat Jul-Aug, Bellas Artes (Fine Arts Museum; adult/EU citizen €1.50/free;
9.30am-2.30pm Sun & holidays year-round), began as h2.30-8.30pm Tue, 9am-8.30pm Wed-Sat, to 2.30pm Sun &
a palace and fort for Alfonso X in the 13th holidays), which exhibits Cordoban artists’ work
century. From 1490 to 1821 the Inquisition from the 14th to the 20th century.
operated from here. Today its gardens are
among the most beautiful in Andalucía. The HAMMAM BAÑOS ÁRABES
building houses an old royal bathhouse, the Follow the lead of the medieval Cordobans
Baños Califales. Take time to gaze at the third- and indulge your senses at the beautifully
century Roman sarcophagus, with its reflec- renovated Arab baths (%957 48 47 46; www.ham
tions on life and death. mamspain.com/cordoba; Calle Corregidor Luis de la Cerda 51;
bath/bath & massage €12/16; h2hr sessions at 10am, noon,
PUENTE ROMANO & AROUND 2pm, 4pm, 6pm, 8pm & 10pm) where you can enjoy
Just south of the Mezquita is the much- an aromatherapy massage, with tea, hookah
restored Puente Romano (Roman Bridge) and Arabic sweets in the cafe later.

ANDALUCÍA
crosses the Guadalquivir. Just downstream,
near the northern bank, is a restored Islamic Festivals & Events
water wheel. Spring and early summer is the chief festival
At the southern end of the bridge is the time for Córdoba.
Torre de la Calahorra (%957 29 39 29; Puente Romano Concurso & Festival de Patios Cordobeses (Early
s/n; adult/child €4/2.50; h10am-2pm & 4.30-8.30pm May- May) See the boxed text, opposite; at the same time
Sep, to 6pm Oct-Apr), a 14th-century tower with there’s a busy cultural program.
the curious Roger Garaudy Museum of the Feria de Mayo (Last week of May/first days of June) Ten
Three Cultures highlighting the intellectual days of party time for Córdoba, with a giant fair, concerts
achievements of Islamic Córdoba. and bullfights.
Festival Internacional de Guitarra (Late June/early
MUSEO ARQUEOLÓGICO July) Two-week celebration of the guitar, with live classi-
Córdoba’s excellent archaeological museum cal, flamenco, rock, blues and more; top names play in the
(%957 47 40 11; Plaza de Jerónimo Páez 7; adult/EU citizen Alcázar gardens at night.
€1.50/free; h3-8pm Tue, 9am-8pm Wed-Sat, to 3pm Sun & Semana Santa (Holy Week) Every evening during Holy
holidays), provides a real insight into pre-Islamic Week, between around 8pm and midnight, up to 12 proces-
Córdoba in the suitably historic setting of a sions accompany their pasos (elaborate platforms bearing
Renaissance palace. The upstairs is devoted religious images) on an official route through the city.
to medieval Córdoba. Processions peak between 4am and 6am on Good Friday.

PLAZA DEL POTRO Cordoba for Children

This pedestrianised plaza, 400m northeast of When you and the kids just don’t want to
the Mezquita, was a celebrated hang-out for look at old stones a moment longer, it’s time
traders and adventurers in the 16th and 17th to head a little way out of town and leave the
centuries. Miguel de Cervantes lived for a past behind. Just southwest of the city centre
while in the Posada del Potro (%957 48 50 18; Plaza and adjoining the city Zoo and Wildlife Centre
del Potro 10; admission free; h10am-2pm & 5-8pm Mon-Fri (Avenida de Linneo; admission adult/child/senior €4/2;
Aug-May), then an inn (which he described in h10am-7pm Tue-Sun Apr & May, to 8pm Jun, Jul, Aug, to
Don Quijote as a ‘den of thieves’) and today a 7pm Sep, to 5-6pm Oct-Mar), historic buildings morph
more respectable exhibition hall. into brightly coloured climbing equipment.
 792 C Ó R D O B A P R O V I N C E • • C ó r d o b a Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

Welcome to La Ciudad de los Niños (%663 035709; One of the best-value places in town, this hotel
laciudaddelosninos@educasur.es; Avenida Menéndez Pidal; ad- is right opposite the Mezquita itself. The 16th-
mission free; h10am-2pm & 7-11pm Jun-mid-Sep, 10am-6pm century mansion has sparkling bathrooms
Nov-Mar), Córdoba’s City for Kids. A calendar of and elegant rooms, some with views of the
special events aimed at 4 to 12 year olds runs great mosque.
throughout the summer – check its website Hotel Albucasis (%/fax 957 47 86 25; Calle Buen Pastor
for details, or ask at the regional tourist office. 11; s/d €50/70; pa) Tucked away in a quiet lo-
Buses 2 and 5 (heading to Hospital Reina Sofia) cation in the judería, the decor is austere and
from the city centre stop here. restful, with modest rooms decorated prima-
rily in white and pale green. The ivy-festooned
Sleeping patio is a great spot for breakfast.
There is plenty of budget accommodation in Hotel Lola (%957 20 03 05; www.hotelconencantolola
Córdoba (though finding single rooms for .com; Calle Romero 3; d incl breakfast €114; pa) A quirky
a decent price is not easy). Many lodgings hotel with large antique beds and full of smaller
are built around some of the city’s charming items that you just wish you could take home.
patios. Booking ahead is wise from March to You can eat your breakfast on the roof terrace
October and essential during the main festivals. overlooking the Mezquita bell tower.
Prices are generally reduced from November Casa de los Azulejos (%957 47 00 00; www.casa
to mid-March, and some places also cut their delosazulejos.com/marco.htm; Calle Fernando Colón 5; s/d
rates during hot July and August. €100/120; ai) Andalucía meets Mexico in
this stylish hotel, where the patio is all ba-
BUDGET nana trees, fluffy ferns and tall palms. The
Hostal El Reposo de Bagdad (%957 20 28 54; www.hostal rooms are in a colonial style, and there’s a
bagdad.eresmas.com; Calle Fernández Ruano 11; s/d €30/45) good Mexican restaurant downstairs.
ANDALUCÍA

Hidden in a tiny street in the judería, this

200-year-old house feels thrillingly Moorish. TOP END
The rooms are simple but clean. Hotel Amistad Córdoba (%957 42 03 35; www.nh-hoteles
Hostal Séneca (%/fax 957 47 32 34; Calle Conde y .com; Plaza de Maimónides 3; s/d €118; pai)
Luque 7; s/d incl breakfast €36/48; hclosed one week Aug Occupying two 18th-century mansions with
& Christmas week) The charming, friendly Séneca original Mudéjar patios, the Amistad is part
occupies a rambling house with a marvellous of the modern NH chain with elegant rooms
pebbled patio that’s filled with greenery. Some and all the requisite luxury hotel facilities
rooms have air-conditioning. A small cafe-bar including babysitting. Closed at the time of
supplies breakfast and drinks on the patio. research; however, renovations will have been
Hostal Osio de Córdoba (%/fax 957 48 51 65; Calle completed by the time you read this.
Osio 6; d/tr €45/60; ai) Great facilities are avail- Parador Nacional Arruzafa (%957 27 59 00;
able here at a very reasonable price. This hotel www.parador.es; Avenida de la Arruzafa s/n; s/d €116/145;
is a refurbished mansion with two cool patios, pas) Best if you’re driving, the parador
and the proprietor speaks English. is 3km north of the city centre. It’s fabulously
Hotel Maestre (%957 47 24 10; Calle Romero Barros 4; situated on the site of Abd ar-Rahman I’s sum-
s/d €38/52, apt €58; pai) This place has com- mer palace but is a modern affair (rather dis-
fortably furnished rooms with all the mod appointing in such an historic city) amid lush
cons, although bathrooms are grudging of green gardens where Europe’s first palm trees
both space and supplies. The reception staff were planted. It’s wheelchair accessible.
speak some English.
Eating
MIDRANGE Dishes common to most Cordoban restau-
Hotel González (%957 47 98 19; hotelgonzalez@wanadoo rants include salmorejo, a very thick tomato-
.es; Calle Manríquez 3; s €35-37, d €49-66; ai) Rich based gazpacho (cold vegetable soup), and
baroque decor lends a graciousness to this rabo de toro. Some restaurants feature recipes
well-priced hotel. The restaurant is set in the from Al-Andalus such as garlic soup with
pretty flower-filled patio and the friendly pro- raisins, honeyed lamb, or meat stuffed with
prietors speak fluent English. dates and nuts. The local tipple is wine from
Hotel Mezquita (%957 47 55 85; hotelmezquita@ nearby Montilla and Moriles, similar to sherry
wanadoo.es; Plaza Santa Catalina 1; s €37-39, d €53-74; a) but unfortified.
lonelyplanet.com C Ó R D O B A P R O V I N C E • • C ó r d o b a 793

There are lots of places to eat right by the Drinking & Entertainment
Mezquita, but beware inflated prices and Córdoba’s liveliest bars are mostly scattered
uninspired food. around the newer parts of town and come
Bar Santos (Calle Magistral González Francés 3; tortillas alive at about 11pm or midnight at week-
€2.50) The legendary Santos serves the biggest ends. Most bars in the medieval centre close
tortilla de patata in town – eaten with plas- around midnight.
tic forks on paper plates, while gazing at the Amapola (%957 47 37 40; Paseo de la Ribera 9; h9am-
Mezquita. Don’t miss it. 3pm Mon-Fri, 5pm-4am Sat & Sun) This is where the
Taberna Salinas (%957 48 01 35; Calle Tundidores 3; young and beautiful lounge on green leather
tapas/raciones €2.50/8; hclosed Sun & Aug) Dating back sofas and consume elaborate cocktails. The
to 1879, this large patio restaurant fills up DJ whips up a storm. Party in style till late
fast. Try the delicious aubergines with honey at night.
or potatoes with garlic. The tavern side is Soul (%957 49 15 80; Calle de Alfonso XIII 3; h9am-
quieter in the early evening, and the friendly 3am Mon-Fri & 10am-4am Sat & Sun, closed Aug) Sparsely
bar staff will fill your glass with local Montilla furnished, student-filled DJ bar that gets
whenever you look thirsty. hot and busy at weekends, attracting a more
Taberna San Miguel (%957 47 01 66; Plaza San alternative and younger crowd.
Miguel 1; tapas €2-5 media raciones €5.50-10; hclosed Sun Bodega Guzmán (Calle de los Judíos 7) Don’t miss
& Aug) Córdoba prides itself on its tabernas. this atmospheric old-city favourite, with
The San Miguel has been going strong since Montilla from the barrel.
1880, with a good base of local regulars for a Jazz Café (%957 47 19 28; Calle Espartería s/n; admis-
friendly ambience. sion free; h8am-late) This fabulous, cavernous bar
Comedor Árabe-Andalusí (%957 47 51 62; Calle puts on regular live jazz and jam sessions.
Alfayatas 6; mains €8-11) Indulge your North Gran Teatro de Córdoba (%957 48 02 37; www
African tastes at this low-seated eatery where

ANDALUCÍA
.teatrocordoba.com in Spanish; Avenida del Gran Capitán 3)
you can choose from kofte, falafel, tagines or This theatre hosts a busy program of con-
bowls of fluffy couscous with chicken, lamb, certs, theatre, dance and film, mostly geared
greens and herbs. to popular Spanish tastes.
Casa Pepe de la Judería (%957 20 07 44; Calle
Romero 1; tapas/media raciones €2.50-9.50, mains €11-18, Shopping
menú €27.82) A great roof-terrace with views Córdoba is known for its cuero repujado (em-
of the Mezquita and a labyrinth of busy din- bossed leather) goods, silver jewellery (par-
ing rooms. Down a complimentary glass of ticularly filigree) and attractive pottery. Craft
Montilla before launching into the house shops congregate around the Mezquita.
specials, including Cordoban oxtails or Meryan (%95 747 59 02; Calleja de las Flores) A
venison fillets. top place for quality embossed leather, al-
El Churrasco (%957 29 08 19; Calle Romero 16; mains though it is factory-produced (on a relatively
€15-24; hclosed Aug) The food is rich, the por- small scale).
tions generous and service in the shady patio Ghadamés (%957 48 16 07; www.cuerrosghadames
room is old-school attentive. White gazpa- .com; Corregidor Luis de la Cerda 52; h10am-1pm & 5.30pm-
cho made from pine nuts and garnished 8pm, to 1pm Apr-Sep) Here in his tiny workshop,
with raisins and apple chunks is as soft and enthusiastic Rafael Varo is one of a handful
creamy as angels’ wings. In contrast, meaty of dedicated craftsmen reviving the lost art
dishes include the eponymous churrasco, a of guadamecíes. This is a technique invented
barbecued pork fillet with a wickedly scarlet in Córdoba during the 13th century for cur-
Arabian sauce. ing leather so that intricate designs can be
Bodega Campos (%957 49 75 00; Calle de Lineros painted, engraved or inlaid on it. Pieces start
32; tapas/raciones €6.50-16, mains €17.50-29; hclosed at around €200.
Sun evening) This many-roomed, atmospheric
winery-cum-restaurant offers the peak din- Getting There & Away
ing experience in Cordoba. Corridors and BUS
rooms are lined with oak barrels, signed by the The bus station (%957 40 40 40; Glorieta de las Tres
Spanish royal family and Tony Blair, among Culturas) is 1km northwest of Plaza de las
other immortals, and the establishment offers Tendillas, behind the train station. Destinations
its own house Montilla. include Seville (€9.96, 1¾ hours, six daily),
 794 G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E lonelyplanet.com

Granada (€12.04 to €16.60, 2½ hours, seven Abd ar-Rahman III. The self-proclaimed cal-
daily), Madrid (€14.40, 4½ hours, six daily), iph began the construction of a magnificent
Málaga (€12.21, 2¾ hours, five daily) and Jaén new capital 8km west of Córdoba around 936,
(€8.22, 1½ hours, seven daily). and took up full residence around 945. Medina
Azahara (Madinat al-Zahra; %957 32 91 30; adult/EU citizen
TRAIN €1.50/free; h10am-6.30pm Tue-Sat, to 8.30pm May–mid-
Córdoba’s train station (%957 40 02 02; Avenida de Sep, to 2pm Sun) was a resounding declaration of
América) is on the high-speed AVE line between his status, a magnificent trapping of power.
Madrid and Seville. Rail destinations include The new capital was amazingly short-lived.
Seville (€27.80, 90 minutes, 23 or more daily), Between 1010 and 1013, during the caliphate’s
Madrid (€48.40 to €61.80, 1¾ to 6¼ hours, collapse, Medina Azahara was wrecked by
23 or more daily), Málaga (€19.05 to €22.30, Berber soldiers. Today, though less than a
2½ hours, nine daily), Barcelona (€55.40 to tenth of it has been excavated, and only about
€124.50, 10½ hours, four daily) and Jaén a quarter of that is open to visitors, Medina
(€8.85, 1½ hours, one daily). For Granada Azahara is still a fascinating place to visit.
(€32, four hours), change at Bobadilla. The visitor route leads down to the Dar
al-Wuzara (House of the Viziers), a substan-
Getting Around tial building with several horseshoe arches,
Bus 3 (€1), from the street between the train fronted by a square garden, and on to the
and bus stations, runs to Plaza de las Tendillas most impressive building, the painstakingly
and down Calle de San Fernando, east of restored Salón de Abd ar-Rahman III, the caliph’s
the Mezquita. For the return trip, you can throne hall, with delicate horseshoe arching
pick it up on Ronda de Isasa, just south of framing elaborate gardens, and exquisitely
the Mezquita. carved stuccowork, of a lavishness hitherto
Taxis from the bus or train station to the unprecedented in the Islamic world.
ANDALUCÍA

Mezquita cost around €6. Since much of the site is in full sun, try to
For drivers, Córdoba’s one-way system is avoid visiting after 11am in July and August,
nightmarish, but routes to many hotels and thus avoiding both crowds and extreme heat.
hostales are fairly well signposted with a ‘P’ if It’s also advisable to wear comfortable walking
they have parking. Hotels charge about €12 shoes to negotiate some uneven paths and
to €18 per day for parking. rough ground around the monuments.
Blobjects (%957 76 00 33; www.blobject.es; Avenida Medina Azahara is signposted on Avenida
Dr Fleming; €25-50, one-day hire €100) The jaunty, de Medina Azahara, which leads west out of
rounded Blobject is an American-made Córdoba onto the A431.
Gem electric car (top speed around 20mph). A taxi costs €37 for the return trip, with
Equipped with GPS technology and a USB one hour to view the site, or you can book
port for plugging in flash drive information in a three-hour coach tour for €6.50 to €10
your chosen European language, the Blobject through many Córdoba hotels. Guided visits
is a safe, environmentally friendly and fun can also be arranged for around €15.
way to see, hear and smell this city of flowers.
Blobjects for one, two or four passengers can
be collected and returned to several major
tourist sites around the city. Ask at a tour-
GRANADA PROVINCE
ist information office for details of routes. Granada province houses two of Andalucía’s
The same company is experimenting with crown jewels – the Alhambra and the main-
the strange-but-cute Segway, an electrical land’s highest mountain range and ski resort.
scooter controlled by leaning movements of But there is much more to delight: the sleep-
the driver, with full training and safety hel- ing beauty of the Alpujarra valleys and the
mets provided before setting off. province’s own Mediterranean resort area,
the Costa Tropical, are, like the skiing, both
AROUND CÓRDOBA less than an hour’s drive from the city. Even at
Medina Azahara the height of summer, night-times and early
Even in the cicada-shrill heat and stillness of mornings bring reviving mountain breezes,
a summer afternoon, the Madinat al-Zahra the tapas are still free, and the people are
whispers of the power and vision of its founder, friendly and open to new influences.
lonelyplanet.com G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E • • G r a n a d a 795

GRANADA its Islamic heritage during the 1830s, when

pop 300,000 / elev 685m tourism took hold.
Spain’s most visited monument, the Alhambra When the Nationalists took over Granada
palace, presides over a city full of architec- at the start of the civil war, an estimated 4000
tural and historic treasures. Today, Granada’s granadinos (Granada residents) with left or
Islamic past is being reinvented for the 21st liberal connections were killed, among them
century in the shops, restaurants, tearooms Federico García Lorca, Granada’s most fa-
and mosque of a growing North African com- mous writer. Granada has a reputation for
munity in and around the Albayzín. Alongside political conservatism.
them flourish smart new tapas bars, tiny fla-
menco dives and chrome-and-neon clubs that Orientation
support a dynamic student and gay scene. The two major central streets, Gran Vía de
Colón and Calle Reyes Católicos, meet at
History Plaza Isabel La Católica. From here Calle
Granada’s history reads like a thriller. Granada Reyes Católicos runs southwest to Puerta
began life as an Iberian settlement in the Real, an important intersection, and north-
Albayzín district. Muslim forces took over east to Plaza Nueva. Cuesta de Gomérez leads
from the Visigoths in 711, with the aid of northeast up from Plaza Nueva towards the
the Jewish community around the foot of the Alhambra on its hilltop. The old Muslim dis-
Alhambra hill in what was called Garnata al trict, the Albayzín, rambles over another hill
Jahud, from which the name Granada derives; that rises north of Plaza Nueva.
granada also happens to be Spanish for pome- The bus station (northwest) and train sta-
granate, the fruit on the city’s coat of arms. tion (west) are both out of the city centre but
After the fall of Córdoba (1236) and Seville linked by buses.
(1248), Muslims sought refuge in Granada,

ANDALUCÍA
where Mohammed ibn Yusuf ibn Nasr had set Information
up an independent emirate. Stretching from BOOKSHOPS
the Strait of Gibraltar to east of Almería, this Cartográfica del Sur (%958 20 49 01; Calle Valle
‘Nasrid’ emirate became the final remnant of Inclán 2; h10am-2pm & 5-8.30pm, Mon-Fri, to 1.30
Al-Andalus, ruled from the increasingly lavish Sat) Granada’s best map shop, in the south of the city, just
Alhambra palace for 250 years. Granada became off Camino de Ronda. Wide range of high-quality Sierra
one of the richest cities in medieval Europe. Nevada, walking and trekking maps.
However, in the 15th century the economy Metro (Map p801; %958 26 15 65; Calle de Gracia 31)
stagnated and violent rivalry developed over Stocks an excellent range of English-language novels,
the succession. One faction supported the guidebooks and books on Spain, plus plenty of books in
emir, Abu al-Hasan, and his harem favourite French.
Zoraya. The other faction backed Boabdil,
Abu al-Hasan’s son by his wife Aixa. In 1482 EMERGENCY
Boabdil rebelled, setting off a confused civil Policía Nacional (Map p801; %958 80 80 00; Plaza de
war. The Christian armies invading the emir- los Campos) The most central police station.
ate took advantage, besieging towns and dev-
astating the countryside, and in 1491 they INTERNET ACCESS
finally laid siege to Granada. After eight Thanks to Granada’s 60,000 students, in-
months, Boabdil agreed to surrender the ternet cafes are cheap and stay open for
city in return for the Alpujarras valleys and long hours.
30,000 gold coins, plus political and religious Cyberlocutorio (Map p801; Puerta Elvira, Plaza del Triunfo
freedom for his subjects. On 2 January 1492 5; per hr €1; h9am-midnight Mon-Thu, 9am-2pm & 4pm-
the conquering Catholic Monarchs, Isabel midnight Fri, 11am-midnight Sat, Sun & holidays)
and Fernando, entered Granada ceremoni- Cyberlocutorio Alhambra (Map p801; Calle Joaquin Costa
ally in Muslim dress. They set up court in the 40; per hr €1.50; h10.30am-midnight every day)
Alhambra for several years.
Jews and Muslims were steadily persecuted, INTERNET RESOURCES
and both groups had been expelled by the Where2 (www.where2.es) Excellent, comprehensive English-
17th century. Granada sank into a deep de- language website with information on ‘Where To’ eat, sleep,
cline until the Romantics revived interest in find entertainment or even buy property in Granada.
 796 G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E • • G r a n a d a lonelyplanet.com

GRANADA
To Monasterio de To Guadix (55km);
la Cartoja (600m);

C
To Camping Sierra Almería (166km)
Viznar (8km);

Cartuja
Nevada (1.6km);

An
Bus Station (1.8km); Alfacar (8km)

ch
A44 Northbound (2km);

ad
Jaén (93km)

e
Ca

C Real de
Ca
r

pu

ret
To Train Station

ch

era
(400m); Hospital Av

in

C
ag

os
Jardines

de
Ruiz de Alda (550m); de

P
és
Fuente Vaqueros (17km); la del

M
Airport (17km); Co
ns Triunfo

ur
tit ia

c
Málaga (125km) uc
ió n Placeta
hoa

Fátima
ue

C
Oc

sta
3 Plaza C
ios

Alha
caba Larga Pander sde los
n de D

Plaza del Cues

ero

o Chinos
Triunfo ta de la Call 4
San ej
S ev

ca

C gust
1

ón ecilio

Char
A
Gra

Sa i n
de
or

C San Jua

n
n V

C
oct

Plaza
C D

de San
ía

C Albayzín Nicolás 7 6
Re Placeta de Cuesta
de

9 n
cto San Miguel Cabras C d e Sa
ea l
Col

rL C Bajo
ó Ma l la R 11
pe no 12 10 C Santa Isabe
ó

zA 15
n

de 13
rgü
e ta
Hi
err

C
o
án

Sa
p it

8
Ca

Jer
ra n

o
ón

Pa s e
im
lG

o
l Darr
o
de

de
de

rera
C

Elvi

C Car
C

M
ra

elc
Du

h or tín
q

Alm us
ue

ag Ag
sa

ro ja
C Sa
n Ba
l
ANDALUCÍA

Ca
rri
C árce
l C
de C Alcaicería Cu
lP es
i có Plaza ta
s de Gomérez
n abla de la
C T Trinidad s
co Plaza
o
li

ces Isabel La
Cd

do Plaza
tó

Bosque
rta nsu Católica
Ca

e Bib- C alle
jón Alhambra
e lo

Hu Bu Rambla
y es

po C Niñ
s
C

o d
Re
s

Me

el
Sa
bi

2 ia Ro
ac
O

C
n

Gr
so n

yo
C

de Realejo
igu

es

Plaza C
el

Menorca
Alt

Puerta
a

Real C
Án
Plaza de gel
C Ga
To Cartografíca Gracia as Ac niv
del Sur (1km) o gid era et
c
Re de
l
Plaza de
las Ca
sin
Mariana
de o Pineda
C

C
M
ol
CA

in
os
C
ce r

Ca

Sa
rre
ad

nt
iag
ra
el

o
de
C de San An

Da

lG
rr o

en
il

To Parque Federico Garcia Paseo Salón

tón

Cuest
Lorca (200m); Municipal Tourist Pa a de
Office (250m); Momento2 C de Alhamar Río Genil seo
de
(300m); Huerta de San la
Vicente (400m) See Central Granada Map (p801) Bo
mb
a
C
A ra

n
C
Cam

ló

io
Po
bia

lV
eta

de
ino
l

seo
M

Pa
de

an
ue
Ro n

lG

17 16
da

ón
g
ora

Palacio de
Congresos

To Parque de las Ciencias (800m);

AA4 Southbound (1.6km);
Industrial Copera (2km); Motril (68km)
lonelyplanet.com G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E • • G r a n a d a 797

0 300 m Turismo de Granada (www.turismodegranada.org)

0 0.2 miles Good website of the provincial tourist office, although
deeper layers of information are sketchy.

LAUNDRY
Lavomatique (Map p801; Calle Paz 19) Wash and dry
machine load for €10.

MEDIA
Where2 Magazine Excellent free English-language pocket
5
guide to Granada, published bi-monthly. Where2 is stuffed with
information on ‘where to’ indulge your eyes, ears and taste buds
Ve

ed in Granada. It’s available at tourist offices and at major sights.

Cue

14 a
d e nm
E di o
sta del C

tí n
te

Agu s C a mino n
d el Sa o m o
Sacromonte cr MEDICAL SERVICES
Hospital Ruiz de Alda (%958 02 00 09, 958 24 11
h a pi

00; Avenida de la Constitución 100) Central, with good

z

See Alhambra & Generalife Map (p798)

Río Darro
emergency facilities.
Tristes
l os
de
MONEY
There are plenty of banks and ATMs on Gran
Summer
Palace Vía de Colón, Plaza Isabel La Católica and
Cue

ta Calle Reyes Católicos.

s

e
d

lo

ANDALUCÍA
POST
s
Ch

no
Post office (Map p801; Puerta Real s/n; h8.30am-
i

Alhambra s

8.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-2pm Sat) Often has long queues.

TOURIST INFORMATION
Provincial tourist office (Map p801; %958 24 71 28;
www.turismodegranada.org; Plaza de Mariana Pineda 10;
h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm & 4-7pm Sat, 10am-
CA
nte

3pm Sun May-Sep, 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat, to

que
rue

3pm Sun Nov-Apr) Helpful staff with information on the

la B

Av
Lo
aja C Cu

sA
lix
a
whole Granada region; a short walk east of Puerta Real.
res
am esta del Caidero

Regional tourist office Plaza Nueva (Map p801; %958

ino
Nu

22 10 22; Calle Santa Ana 1; h9am-7.30pm Mon-Sat,

ev

de
o

Cem 9.30am-3pm Sun & holidays); Alhambra (Map p798;

l

en INFORMATION
teñ
o Cyberlocutorio.............................1 B2 %958 22 95 75; ticket-office bldg, Avenida del Generalife
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES s/n; h8am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm & 4-7.30pm Sat &
Aljibe Baños Arabes..................... 2 A4 Sun, closes at 6pm Nov-Feb, 9am-1pm holidays) Informa-
Arco de las Pesas......................... 3 D2
Colegiata del Salvador.................4 D2 tion on all of Andalucía.
Escori
Escuela Carmen de las Cuevas......5
Mezquita Mayor de Granada.......6
E2
D2
Municipal tourist office (Map pp796-7; %958 22 52 17;
aza
Mirador San Nicolás.....................7 D2 www.granadatur.com; Calle Almona del Campillo, 2; h9am-
Monasterio de San Jerónimo........8 A2
Palacio de Dar-al-Horra................9 C2
7pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat, 10am-2pm Sun, holidays) Sleek,
To Sierra
efficient centre opposite the city’s Parque Federico Garcia Lorca.
Nevada EATING
(33km) El Ají..........................................10 C2
Terraza las Tomasas................... 11 D2 Sights & Activities
ENTERTAINMENT Most major sights are within walking distance
Afrodisia.....................................12 B2 of the city centre, though there are buses to
El Eshavira..................................13 B2
Los Tarantos...............................14 E2 save you walking uphill.
Peña de la Platería.....................15 D2

TRANSPORT ALHAMBRA
Buses to Airport.........................16 C6
Parking Palacio de Congresos.....17 B6
Stretched along the top of the hill known as
La Sabika, the Alhambra (Map p798; %902 441221;
 798 G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E • • G r a n a d a lonelyplanet.com

Advance ticket purchase: www.alhambra-tickets.es & www de Santa María de la Alhambra, two hotels,
.servicaixa.com, €13; adult/EU senior/EU student €12/9/9, disa- several bookshops and souvenir shops –
bled & under 8yr free, Generalife only €6; h8.30am-8pm Mar- as well as lovely gardens, including the
Oct, to 6pm Nov-Feb, closed 25 Dec & 1 Jan) is the stuff of supreme Generalife.
fairy tales. From outside, its red fortress tow- There are a couple of cafes by the ticket
ers and walls appear plain, if imposing, rising office, but only the two hotels offer full-scale
from woods of cypress and elm, with the Sierra meals.
Nevada forming a magnificent backdrop.
Try to visit first thing in the morning History
(8.30am) or late in the afternoon to avoid the The Alhambra, from the Arabic al-qala’at al-
crowds, or treat yourself to a magical night hamra (red castle), was a fortress from the 9th
by visiting the Palacio Nazaríes (opposite century. The 13th- and 14th-century Nasrid
for details). emirs converted it into a fortress-palace com-
The Alhambra contains two outstanding plex adjoined by a small town (medina), of
sets of buildings: the Palacio Nazaríes and which only ruins remain. Yusuf I (1333–54)
the Alcazaba (Citadel). Also within its walls and Mohammed V (1354–59 and 1362–91)
you’ll find the Palacio de Carlos V, the Iglesia built the magnificent Palacio Nazaríes.

0 200 m
ALHAMBRA & GENERALIFE 0 0.1 miles

s R ey s
C San Juande lo
C Cuesta de
C Candil

la Victoria

17
INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Alhambra Information Office.....1 A2 Carmen de los Martires..............3 C4
C Zafra

Pabellón de Acceso....................2 C3 Convento de San Francisco....(see 20)

s Regional Tourist Office............(see 2) Iglesia de Santa María................4 B2
riste ro
os T
de l Da
r Ticket Office............................(see 2) Jardín de la Sultana....................5 C1
ANDALUCÍA

eo
7 Pas Río Mexuar......................................6 B2
el Darro
Carrera d Jardines Museo Arqueológico..................7 A1
Altos
Museo de Bellas Artes..............(see 8)
Cu 5 Museo de la Alhambra.............(see 8)
e 11 Palacio de Carlos V.....................8 B2
sta

Summer Palacio de Comares....................9 B2

de l o

Torre de
Comares Palace Palacio de los Leones................10 B2
sC
hin
o Patio de la Acequia...................11 C1
12 Gate
6 13 Patio de Lindaraja.....................12 B2
s

(closed)
Plaza 9 Jardines Patio del Cuarto Dorado...........13 B2
de los Palacio 10 Palacio Nuevos
16 Aljibes Puerta Nazaries del Portico Puerta de la Justicia..................14 A2
del Vino 8 Generalife Puerta de las Granadas.............15 A2
1 Alhambra Torre de la Vela.......................16 A2
Jardines
del Partal Torre de
14 CR 4 la Cautiva
Cuesta Empedr eal
15 a d a Puerta de 23 de la
la Justicia Pilar de Alh 18 20
Cue am Torre de
sta Carlos V br la Infanta
de
a

Gom 24
ere
z
Bosque
Callejó Medina
n Ni Alhambra
ño
d el
Ro y
o
25 2
C
An
t eq

Pa
ue

eo
Av l
s
r ue

de
la

os

A li
lo
Ba

19 xare
s

s
ja

21
ár

es
tir

ENTERTAINMENT
Ca el Ce

3
d

Centro Cultural Manuel de

mi n m e
o N nte

Falla.....................................21 B4
ue v ñ o

Teatro Alhambra......................22 A4
C

o
Cuesta del Caidero
M
ol

SLEEPING SHOPPING
in
os

Casa Morisca Hotel...................17 B1 Laguna Taller de Taracea..........23 B2

C
Sa

22 Hotel América..........................18 B2
nt
iag

Hotel Guadalupe......................19 D3 TRANSPORT

o

Parador de Granada.................20 C2 Buses 30 & 32..........................24 A2

Puerta de las Granadas...........(see 15) Buses 30 & 32..........................25 C3

Generalife
lonelyplanet.com G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E • • G r a n a d a 799

After the Christian conquest the Alhambra’s Generalife or Alcazaba from 8.30am until 2pm,
mosque was replaced with a church and the or a billete de tarde, for entry after 2pm.
Convento de San Francisco (now the Parador The Palacio Nazaríes is also open for night
de Granada) was built. Carlos I, grandson of visits (h10pm-11.30pm Tue-Sat Mar-Oct, 8pm-9.30pm Fri
Isabel I and Fernando II, had a wing of the & Sat Nov-Feb). Tickets cost the same as daytime
Palacio Nazaríes destroyed to make space for a tickets: the ticket office opens 30 minutes
huge Renaissance palace, the Palacio de Carlos before the palace’s opening time, closing 30
V (using his title as Holy Roman Emperor). minutes after it. You can book ahead for night
In the 18th century the Alhambra was visits in the same ways as for day visits.
abandoned to thieves and beggars. During the
Napoleonic occupation it was used as a bar- Alcazaba
racks and narrowly escaped being blown up. In The ramparts and several towers are all that
1870 it was declared a national monument as a remain of the citadel. The most important
result of the huge interest stirred by Romantic is the Torre de la Vela (Watchtower), with a
writers such as Washington Irving, who wrote winding staircase to its top terrace, which has
the entrancing Tales of the Alhambra in the splendid views. The cross and banners of the
Palacio Nazaríes during his brief stay in the Reconquista were raised here in January 1492.
1820s. Since then the Alhambra has been sal- In the past the tower’s bell chimes control-
vaged and very heavily restored. Together with led the irrigation system of Granada’s fertile
the Generalife gardens and the Albayzín, it plain, the Vega.
now enjoys Unesco World Heritage status.
Palacio Nazaríes
Admission This is the Alhambra’s true gem, the most
Some areas of the Alhambra can be visited at brilliant Islamic building in Europe, with its
any time without a ticket, but the highlight perfectly proportioned rooms and courtyards,

ANDALUCÍA
areas can be entered only with a ticket. Up to intricately moulded stucco walls, beautiful
6600 tickets are available for each day. At least tiling, fine carved wooden ceilings and elab-
2000 of these are sold at the ticket office on the orate stalactite-like muqarnas vaulting, all
day, but in Easter week, June, July, August and worked in mesmerising, symbolic, geometri-
September these sell out early and you need cal patterns. Arabic inscriptions proliferate in
to start queuing by 7am to be reasonably sure the stuccowork.
of getting one. The Mexuar, through which you normally
It’s highly advisable to book in advance (€1 enter the palace, dates from the 14th century
extra per ticket). You can book up to a year and was used as a council chamber and ante-
ahead in two ways: chamber for audiences with the emir. The
Alhambra Advance Booking (%902 88 80 01 for public would have gone no further.
national calls, 0034 934 92 37 50 for international calls; From the Mexuar you pass into the Patio
h8am-9pm every day) del Cuarto Dorado, a courtyard where the
Servicaixa (www.servicaixa.com). Online booking in emirs gave audiences, with the Cuarto Dorado
Spanish and English. You can also buy tickets in advance (Golden Room) on the left. Opposite the
from Servicaixa cash machines, but only in the Alhambra Cuarto Dorado is the entrance to the Palacio
grounds (h8am-7pm Mar-Oct, 8am-5pm Nov-Feb) de Comares through a beautiful facade of
glazed tiles, stucco and carved wood.
For internet or phone bookings you need a Built for Emir Yusuf I, the Palacio de Comares
Visa card, MasterCard or Eurocard. You re- served as a private residence for the ruler. It’s
ceive a reference number, which you must built around the lovely Patio de los Arrayanes
show, along with your passport, national (Patio of the Myrtles) with its rectangular pool.
identity card or credit card, at the Alhambra The southern end of the patio is overshadowed
ticket office when you pick up the ticket on by the walls of the Palacio de Carlos V. Inside
the day of your visit. the northern Torre de Comares (Comares Tower),
Every ticket is stamped with a half-hour the Sala de la Barca (Hall of the Blessing), with a
time slot for entry to the Palacio Nazaríes. beautiful wooden ceiling, leads into the Salón
Once inside the palacio, you can stay as long de Comares (Comares Hall), where the emirs
as you like. Each ticket is also either a billete de would have conducted negotiations with
mañana (morning ticket), valid for entry to the Christian emissaries. This room’s marvellous
 800 G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E • • G r a n a d a lonelyplanet.com

domed marquetry ceiling contains more than On the ground floor, the Museo de la
8000 cedar pieces in a pattern of stars repre- Alhambra (%958 22 75 27; admission free; h9am-
senting the seven heavens of Islam. 2.30pm Tue-Sat) has an absorbing collection of
The Patio de los Arrayanes leads into the Islamic artefacts from the Alhambra, Granada
Palacio de los Leones (Palace of the Lions), built province and Córdoba, with explanatory texts
under Mohammed V – by some accounts as in English and Spanish.
the royal harem. The palace rooms surround Upstairs, the Museo de Bellas Artes (%958 22 48
the famous Patio de los Leones (Lion Courtyard), 43; admission, adults/EU €1.50/free; h2.30-8pm Tue, 9am-
with its marble fountain channelling water 8pm Wed-Sat, 9am-2.30pm Sun & holidays Mar-Oct, 2.30-6pm
through the mouths of 12 marble lions. The Tue, 9am-6pm Wed-Sat, 9am-2.30pm Sun & holidays Nov-Feb)
palace symbolises the Islamic paradise, which is worth a visit for its impressive collection of
is divided into four parts by rivers (repre- Granada-related paintings and sculptures.
sented by water channels meeting at the foun-
tain). Of the four halls around the patio, the Other Christian Buildings
southern Sala de los Abencerrajes is the legendary The Iglesia de Santa María was built between
site of the murders of the noble Abencerraj 1581 and 1617 on the site of the former palace
family, whose leader, the story goes, dared to mosque. The Convento de San Francisco, now the
dally with Zoraya, Abu al-Hasan’s favourite. Parador de Granada hotel (p806), was erected
At the eastern end of the patio is the Sala de over an Islamic palace. Isabel and Fernando
los Reyes (Hall of the Kings), with leather-lined were buried in the patio before being trans-
ceilings painted by 14th-century Christian ferred to the Capilla Real (p802).
artists. The name comes from the painting on
the central alcove, thought to depict 10 Nasrid Generalife
emirs. On the northern side of the patio is the The name Generalife means ‘Architect’s
richly decorated Sala de Dos Hermanas (Hall of Garden’. It’s the perfect place to end an
ANDALUCÍA

Two Sisters), probably named after the slabs Alhambra visit. The Muslim rulers’ summer
of white marble at either side of its fountain. palace is in the corner furthest from the en-
It features a fantastic muqarnas dome with a trance. Within the palace, the Patio de la Acequia
central star and 5000 tiny cells, reminiscent (Court of the Water Channel) has a long pool
of the constellations. This may have been the framed by flowerbeds and 19th-century foun-
room of the emir’s favourite paramour. At its tains, whose shapes sensuously echo the arched
far end is the Sala de los Ajimeces, with low-slung porticos at each end. Off this patio is the Jardín
windows through which the favoured lady de la Sultana (Sultana’s Garden), with the trunk
could look over the Albayzín and countryside of a 700-year-old cypress tree, where Abu al-
while reclining on ottomans and cushions. Hasan supposedly caught his lover, Zoraya,
From the Sala de Dos Hermanas a pas- with the head of the Abencerraj clan, leading to
sage leads through the Estancias del Emperador the murders in the Sala de los Abencerrajes.
(Emperor’s Chambers), built for Carlos I in the
1520s, some of them later used by Washington Getting There & Away
Irving. From here, descend to the Patio de la Buses 30 and 32 (€1.10) both run between Plaza
Reja (Patio of the Grille) and Patio de Lindaraja Nueva and the Alhambra ticket office every five
and emerge into the Jardines del Partal, an area to nine minutes from 7.15am to 11pm.
of terraced gardens. Leave the Partal gardens If you opt to walk up Cuesta de Gomérez
by a gate facing the Palacio de Carlos V, or from Plaza Nueva you soon reach the Puerta
continue along a path to the Generalife. de las Granadas (Gate of the Pomegranates),
built by Carlos I. Above this are the Bosque
Palacio de Carlos V Alhambra woods. If you already have your
This huge Renaissance palace was begun Alhambra ticket, you can climb the Cuesta
in 1527 by Pedro Machuca, a Toledo ar- Empedrada path up to the left and pass
chitect, and was never completed. The im- through the austere Puerta de la Justicia (Gate of
posing building is square but contains a Justice), constructed in 1348 as the Alhambra’s
surprising circular, two-tiered courtyard main entrance.
with 32 columns. Were the palace in a dif- If you need to go to the ticket office, in the
ferent setting, its merits might be more Pabellón de Acceso (Access Pavilion), continue
readily appreciated. on for about 900m from the Puerta de las
lonelyplanet.com G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E • • C e n t r a l G r a n a d a 801

0 300 m
CENTRAL GRANADA 0 0.2 miles

Cuesta d
INFORMATION e11
Cathedral.......................................... la AB3
lhaca bHostal Sevilla....................................22 A3
n de Dios
Plaza del a
Cyberlocutorio Alhambra...................1 C3 Triunfo de Lenguas Modernas.......... 12 D4
Centro Hostal Venecia.................................23 C3
Lavomatique......................................2 A4 Corral del Carbón.............................13 Hotel Anacapri.................................24 C3
C4
Main Post Office................................3 B4 Hammam Baños Árabes...................14 Hotel Carmen de Santa Inés.............25 D2
D3
C San Jua

Metro................................................4 A4 Iglesia de Santa Ana.........................15 Hotel Casa del Capitel Nazarf...........26 D3

D3
Policía Nacional..................................5 C5 La Madraza......................................16 Hotel Los Tilos..................................27
B3 B4
Plaza
Provincial Tourist Office.....................6 C5 Hotel Macía Plaza............................de 28 San
C3
Regional Tourist Office.......................7 D3 SLEEPING Hotel Palacio de Santa Paula.............Nicolás 29 B2
C Casa del Aljarife...............................17 D2 Hotel Zaguán...................................30 D2
M
no a
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES de Hostal Britz.......................................18 C3Albayzín Oasis Backpackers' Hostel................31 C3
PlacetaC S eal
Alminar de San José........................... 8 C2 de San a19
Hostal La Ninfa................................ n taD4 la R Oniria.......................................32 B5
Is a b el Villa
Hi

Baños Árabes El Bañuelo....................9 D2 Miguel Bajo 20 D3

Hostal Landázuri..............................
er
ro

Capilla Real.......................................10 B3 Hostal Meridiano..............................21 A3

illo
e Tr 37

CT
ed
jib

iñ a
Al

C Sa
C Cru z d e Q
29 C
tán
api

Gra

n
nC

Jo
é
C

s
Vía
G ra

San

uir C
ós 8 17

C
de
l
de

Jer

Ban
ue
Col
ó

sta
C

Carreta Inés
nim

u
ón

San

elo
M
9

a ra
rro
o

as 45 25 30

tera d
Da
ñ
de l o

A c e i tu
era

C neros
31
Carr Darr

e
Mercado Central 50 26 Río
ería C lúa
a
San Agustín 42
CaldNeur eva rería Viej na
62 ustí
n C Be na
40 51
Ag Baja aA
C

de nt
C

C illam

l
rce
60 52 Plaza 15 Sa
V

n E
C Calde
Du

Sa Cá erie
m lv C
a Santa Ana 14
qu

C ti M
en

Plaza
ir

et
C aquín

48
Jo
a

CC
esa

C Nueva
C L s Tab ábrica

22 34 33 e59
ld 7
la C F ieja

28
aur las

A ba
d ceros ita a
lmire sp An

ANDALUCÍA
C

38
e

de 35 18
C A Ho ta
l

o 39
de

orn 11 C San
An

1
Plaicllería
V ulo

Cos

CH 24
S

21 49
g

58 23 sCue
ta

eta

53 C Capuc h inas 10 ios a sta

Plaza rsa
Plaza fic ni m
O 57 C Á de
s de la C Sille de las
36 Pasiegas C 16 G o mérez
abla Trinidad
C T 55
20
Plaza
Cu

Alcaicería es s Isabel La C
C

o co Católica
es

ces r Cr Bosque
Cd

o uz
Pes

ta

su ad
li

en C de Alhambra
eda Cató

nd
e

Ro

Bu P
cad

Plaza Bib- iedr

Fu
los

dr

C
Pa

Rambla a
s

igo
ería

va

C
na Reye
Me

ne

del

Realejo
Pin
son

ra

13
s

z ia 27
Ma C

Ca m

Pa Plaza Padre
ac
es

Gr Suárez
ría

C 2 Carmen
del
C

de C Ca pitanía
po

44
Sa

C d o
nta

Hon lejo
C

To Aljibe Baños scu C 12

CE Je s
Rea

Arabes (50m)
Esc
G i de z a

da

us
ro los
a

olá
s

es Plaza del yM
Pl

ne

del

din 43
stic

C aría
Jar Carmen 41 San C
a

C
C Na Ra de Ca 19
CS

Puerta v as fae l P mp
l
an

46 Plaza del rín o

Real 3 ci p
Mi

4 Realejo e
C
gu

C
el

Án C Plaza de
ol
Alt

gel Co Fortuny
in
a

Plaza de Ga ch
os

niv C es
Gracia et Ro
as C sa 5
gid Ac
C

54 rio
co er Plaza de Carretera
Sa

Re a Plaza
C P ac

nt

las
de Mariana Progresodel de los
ia
C de Sa

lC Campos
go

Pineda
de a C
o

C 6 En
sin

ri q
Se c

61
C A

ue
n Antón

ta Ca
od
Co

47 rre
cer

L ter
nc

Plaza
e
Ca
a

a
oz
ep

Lu

Campillo de
C
rre

an
del

ció

ce

Bajo Ai
Sa

or
ra

32
na
n

xa
ad
n
Da

de

alv
Ja
l
rro

lS
c
Ge

in t

EATING
de
nil

56
o

Antigua Castañeda...........................33 C3
Bodegas Castañeda..........................34 C3 DRINKING SHOPPING
Café Central.....................................35 C3 El Core
Bar Pacurri........................................46 A4 Artespaña......................................(see 13)
Inglés
Cunini...............................................36 B3 Café Fútbol...................................... 47 C5 Cerámica Fabre.................................55 B3
El Agua............................................37 D2 Café Gran Via Colón.........................48 B3 El Corte Inglés..................................56 C6
Ermita Centro...................................38 B3 Café Lisboa......................................49 C3
Guerrero..........................................39 A3 Taberna El Espejo.............................50 C3 TRANSPORT Paseo
Salón
Kasbah.............................................40 C3 ATA.................................................57 C3
Los Diamantes..................................41 C4 ENTERTAINMENT Bus 30 & 32.....................................58 C3
Mercado Central San Agustín...........42 B3 El Upsetter.......................................51 D3 Río 59
Bus 31 & 32..................................... GenC3
C de Alhamar il
Om-Kalsum.....................................43 A4 Granada 10......................................52 C3 Buses to Airport................................60 C3
Poë..................................................44 A4 Planta Baja.......................................53 A3 Parking Plaza Puerta Real.................61 B5
Restaurante Arrayanes......................45 C2 Teatro Isabel La Catolica...................54 B5 Parking San Agustín..........................62 B3
 802 G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E • • G r a n a d a lonelyplanet.com

Granadas. From the Pabellón de Acceso you CATHEDRAL

can enter the Generalife, and move on from Adjoining the Capilla Real but entered sepa-
there to other parts of the complex. rately from Gran Vía de Colón, the cavernous
For drivers coming from out of town, Gothic-Renaissance cathedral (Map p801; %958
‘Alhambra’ signs on the approach roads 22 29 59; admission €3.50; h10.45am-1.30pm & 4-8pm
to Granada direct you circuitously to the Mon-Sat, 4-8pm Sun, to 7pm Nov-Mar) was begun in
Alhambra car parks (per hr/day €1.40/14) on Avenida 1521 and directed by Diego de Siloé from 1528
de los Alixares, above the ticket office. to 1563. Work was not completed until the
18th century. The main facade on Plaza de las
REALEJO Pasiegas, with four heavy buttresses forming
The Realejo lies below the Alhambra hill to three great arched bays, was designed in the
the south. Its beautiful homes are enhanced 17th century by Alonso Cano.
by the Carmen de los Martires (Map pp798; %958 22
79 53; Paseo de los Martires; admission free; h10am-1pm & ALCAICERÍA & PLAZA BIB-RAMBLA
4.30-7.30pm Jun-Sep, to 6.30pm Oct-May) Romantically Just south of the Capilla Real, the Alcaicería
dishevelled 19th-century gardens and a re- (Map p801) was the Muslim silk exchange,
stored mansion much in use for posh weddings but what you see now is a restoration after
reside on the site of the splendidly named a 19th-century fire, filled with tourist shops.
Convent of the Discalced Carmelites. Just southwest of the Alcaicería is the large
and picturesque Plaza Bib-Rambla. Nearby, the
CAPILLA REAL handsome, horseshoe-arched 14th-century
The Royal Chapel (Map p801; % 958 22 92 39; www Corral del Carbon (Map p801; Calle Mariana Pineda) was
.capillareal.granada.com; Calle Oficios; admission €3.50; once an inn for coal dealers (hence its modern
h10.30am-12.45pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 11am-12.45pm & name, meaning Coal Yard). It houses a gov-
4-7pm Sun Apr-Oct, 10.30am-12.45pm & 3.30-6.15pm Mon- ernment-run crafts shop, Artespaña (p808).
ANDALUCÍA

Sat, 11am-12.45pm & 3.30-6.15pm Sun Nov-Mar), adjoin-

ing the cathedral, is Granada’s outstanding ALBAYZÍN
Christian building. Catholic Monarchs Isabel On the hill facing the Alhambra across the
and Fernando commissioned this elaborate Darro valley, Granada’s old Muslim quarter,
Isabelline-Gothic-style mausoleum. It was not the Albayzín, is an open-air museum in which
completed until 1521, hence their temporary you can lose yourself for a whole morning. The
interment in the Convento de San Francisco. cobblestone streets are lined with gorgeous
The monarchs lie in simple lead coffins in cármenes (large mansions with walled gardens,
the crypt beneath their marble monuments in from the Arabic karm for garden). It survived
the chancel, which is enclosed by a stunning as the Muslim quarter for several decades after
gilded wrought-iron screen created in 1520 the Christian conquest in 1492.
by Bartolomé de Jaén. The sacristy contains a Despite all this charm and beauty, this
small but impressive museum with Fernando’s neighbourhood is still a work-in-progress
sword and Isabel’s sceptre, silver crown and and, unfortunately, its narrow streets are
personal art collection, which is mainly often havens for thieves and muggers. We
Flemish but also includes Botticelli’s Prayer have had reports of muggings, some violent,
in the Garden of Olives. Felipe de Vigarni’s two in the Albayzín, so be discreet about valuables
fine early-16th-century statues of the Catholic and try to avoid this area, especially during
Monarchs at prayer are also here. siesta time (3pm to 5pm).
Just opposite is La Madraza (Map p801; admission Buses 31 and 32 both run circular routes
free; h8am-10pm) founded in 1349 by Sultan from Plaza Nueva around the Albayzín about
Yusuf I as a school and university. Gaze into the every seven to nine minutes from 7.30am
splendid prayer hall with its elaborate mihrab. to 11pm.
The light here has a special mellow quality.
After previous lives as Isabel and Fernando’s MONASTERIO DE SAN JERÓNIMO
headquarters, then the town hall, the building This 16th-century monastery (Map pp796-7; %958
has come full circle and is part of the University 27 93 37; Calle Rector López Argueta 9; admission €3; h10am-
of Granada’s literature faculty, with details of 2.30pm & 4-7.30pm Apr-Oct, to 2.30pm & 3-6.30pm Nov-Mar),
forthcoming arts events available. 500m west of the cathedral, is the burial place of
lonelyplanet.com G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E • • G r a n a d a 803

THE BIG POMEGRANATE

Dark-haired and boyishly handsome, Lorenzo Vera Franco breaks off every few minutes to exchange
greetings with friends passing our table. We are chatting over glasses of chilled Rueda (white wine)
at trendy Ermita Centro (p807) in Plaza Romanilla. A network of gay and straight friends is just
one of the changes Lorenzo appreciates in the 14 years he has lived here. ‘I came to university
here in 1994 from Miranda de Ebro in Burgos to do medieval Arab studies, but also to get away
from being a gay guy in a small city,’ he says. ‘Granada had two gay clubs then – private, you
had to ring the bell – but today I’d say it’s the gay capital of Andalucía.’ Back then, the city lived
up to its reputation for dour conservatism. ‘Then in the late 1990s the council started a major
campaign to clean up the city, and plant trees and flowers everywhere.’ Literally and figuratively,
says Lorenzo, Granada has been blooming ever since.
During the week, Lorenzo works as personal assistant and event organiser for the head of
Granada’s local government body, the Diputación de Granada. The job has enabled him to buy
and start restoring a 1930s house in San Miguel Bajo in the Albayzin, which together with the
city’s Realejo neighbourhood, on the southern flank of the Alhambra hill, is home to a significant
number of Granada’s gay community.
Weekends are for rest and relaxation, though there are plenty of arts events to attend, especially
during university term time. ‘This city’s biorhythms are ruled by the university year, even more
than by the tourist season,’ says Lorenzo. But these days, summer is busy too. The increasingly
popular Festival de Musica y Danza (www.granadafestival.org) takes place mid-June.
Saturdays begin in or around Plaza Larga in the heart of the Albayzin, with churros (freshly
deep-fried doughnut) dunked in thick creamy cocoa. ‘Then, if friends are staying, we might go
to the Alhambra – again! But really, the light is always changing with the seasons; it’s different

ANDALUCÍA
every time.’
Saturday nights offer an ever wider range of hip gay bars, though these days Lorenzo prefers
to meet friends at just a few favourite places. He might start the evening at Taberna El Espejo
(p807) a small, artsy bar where he feels very much at home.
Lorenzo loves to spend Sundays out of doors whenever he can, especially in Granada’s mild
spring and autumn days. ‘Mornings, I often take my book and a picnic to the Carmen de los
Martires (opposite). I feel at home here.’
‘On Sunday evening, everyone in this town seems to go to the movies. Because of the university
we get really good independent movies here. And around mid-June we have the Cines del Sur
film festival here (www.cinesdelsur.com).
‘I love Granada as a gay city, but there are cliques. Here in the Albayzin, though, it’s different.
Everybody knows your name. Some weekends we don’t even bother going to the centre, we
just hang out here. In fact, the old people who have lived here all their lives say, “I’m going to
Granada” as though it were another city altogether.’

El Gran Capitán (the Great Captain), Gonzalo and 18th centuries and features a church
Fernández de Córdoba, the military right-hand bursting with gold, marble and sculptures
man of the Catholic Monarchs. It’s a treat for and an exuberantly baroque sacristy.
fans of Gothic and Renaissance architecture
and stone carving. The formal gardens are as HUERTA DE SAN VICENTE
beautiful in winter as in summer. This house (%958 25 84 66; Calle Virgen Blanca s/n;
admission €3, free Wed) where Federico García
MONASTERIO DE LA CARTUJA Lorca spent summers and wrote some of
Another architectural gem stands 2km his best-known works, is a 15-minute walk
northwest of the city centre, reached by south of the city centre, though it still retains
bus 8 from Gran Vía de Colón. La Cartuja the evocative aura of an early 20th-century
Monastery (%958 16 19 32; Paseo de la Cartuja; admis- country villa. Today the modern but hand-
sion €3.50; h10am-1pm & 4-8pm every day Apr-Oct, to some Parque Federico García Lorca separates it
1pm & 3-6pm Nov-Mar) was built between the 16th from whizzing traffic.
 804 G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E • • G r a n a d a lonelyplanet.com

To get there, head 700m down Calle de las the Albayzín’s main mosque; the mosque’s
Recogidas from Puerta Real, turn right along horseshoe-arched patio, cool and peaceful, sur-
Calle del Arabial, then take the first left into vives at its western end. From here head west to
Calle Virgen Blanca. Plaza Larga and through the Arco de las Pesas (5),
an impressive gateway in the Albayzín’s 11th-
Walking Tour century defensive wall. Callejón de San Cecilio
Plaza Nueva extends northeast into Plaza de leads to the Mirador San Nicolás (6), a lookout with
Santa Ana, where the Iglesia de Santa Ana (1) in- unbeatable views of the Alhambra and Sierra
corporates a mosque’s minaret in its belltower. Nevada. Come back here later for sunset (you
Along narrow Carrera del Darro, stop by the can’t miss the trail then!). At any time of day
11th-century Muslim bathhouse, the Baños take care: skilful, well-organised wallet-lifters
Árabes El Bañuelo (2; %958 22 97 38; Carrera del Darro and bag-snatchers operate here.
31; admission free; h10am-2pm Tue-Sat). Further Just east of Mirador San Nicolás, off Cuesta
along is the Museo Arqueológico (3; Archaeological de las Cabras, the Albayzín’s first new mosque
Museum; %958 22 56 03; Carrera del Darro 43; adult/EU in 500 years, the Mezquita Mayor de Granada (7;
citizen €1.50/free; h2.30-8.30pm Tue, 9.30am-8.30pm %958 20 23 31; hgardens 11am-2pm & 6-9.30pm) has
Wed-Sat, to 2.30pm Sun), displaying finds from been built to serve modern Granada’s growing
Granada province. Muslim population.
Shortly past the museum, Carrera del Darro Return to the lookout, take the steps
becomes Paseo de los Tristes. Turn up Calle down beside it and follow the street down to
Candil and climb, via Placeta de Toqueros and Camino Nuevo de San Nicolás. Turn right
Carril de San Agustín, to Plaza del Salvador, and head downhill to Placeta de San Miguel Bajo
near the top of the Albayzín. Plaza del Salvador (8), with its lively cafe-restaurants. Leave the
is dominated by the Colegiata del Salvador (4; square by Callejón del Gallo, turn right at the
%958 27 86 44; admission €0.75; h10.30am-1pm & 4.30pm- end of this short lane, and you’ll come to the
ANDALUCÍA

7.30pm Mon-Sat, Apr-Oct, 10.30am-1pm & 4.30-7.30pm Mon-Sat 15th-century Palacio de Dar-al-Horra (9; Callejón
Nov-Mar), a 16th-century church on the site of de las Monjas s/n; admission free; h10am-2pm Mon-Fri),
a romantically dishevelled mini-Alhambra
that was home to the mother of Boabdil,
WALK FACTS Granada’s last Muslim ruler.
Start/Finish Plaza Nueva Return to Placeta de San Miguel Bajo and
Distance 5.5km head down Placeta Cauchiles de San Miguel,
Duration four to five hours including which becomes Calle San José, where the lovely
stops Alminar de San José (10; San José Minaret) survives
from an 11th-century mosque. Calle San José
meets the top of Calle Calderería Nueva (11), which
is lined with teterías (Middle Eastern–style
WALKING TOUR teahouses serving a rainbow of tea flavours
0 100 m
0
e
0.1 miles
C Pan
aderos Plaza del
Salvador
and tiny, sugar-enamelled pastries) and shops
sta d 5 Cuesta brimming with slippers, hookahs, jewellery and
Cue lhacaba Cjón 4
la A ca Chapizdel
C
Char

North African pottery. Stop for a Moroccan

C gus
de ilio

A
ec

Sa tin
Sa n

C
n

Plaza de
San Nicolás 7 Agust
ín mint tea, or head back to Plaza Nueva.
C de rlaass C de S a n
9
l Camino Nue 6 Cab
8
C San
ta Isab
el la R ea de San vo
Nicolás Placeta de Courses
Toqueros
Placeta
Cauchiles de
Granada is a great place to study Spanish. It
Reyes
n de los
C San

also has several Spanish dance schools. The

C Candil

San Miguel Jua

C Zafra

Albayzín n
Sa
C
Pase s
o provincial tourist office has lists of schools,
Jo

é 3
s

de loes
Ban

10 or check out www.granadaspanish.org and

C el o

Trist
u

ros Dar ro
ne 2 rera del www.spanishc ourses.info.
va itu Car Río Darro
C Ace

11 ue
Centro de Lenguas Modernas (Modern Languages
Cd

aN
de rerí
C Cal
e E

ra Centre; Map p801; %958 21 56 60; www.clm-granada

lvi

Plaza 1

e ros
Nueva
Alhambra .com; Placeta del Hospicio Viejo s/n) Granada University’s
ire c
C Alm END START Plaza de modern-language department offers a variety of popular
os GCue Santa Ana
lic om sta
tó
s Ca é re d e
z
Spanish-language courses, at all levels, starting from 10
ye
C
R e
days (40 hours of classes) for €346.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E • • G r a n a d a 805

HAMMAMS
Granada has two baños Árabes (Arabic baths), and a visit to one of these is a must for the sheer
lazy pleasure of it. Both baths offer a bath and aromatherapy massage that lasts for two hours
(bath 1 hour 45 minutes, massage 15 minutes), and both need advance reservations. Swimwear
is obligatory (you can rent it), towels are provided and all sessions are mixed. The better of the
pair is Aljibe Baños Árabes (Map p801; %958 52 28 67; www.aljibesanmiguel.es; Calle San Miguel Alta 41;
bath/bath & massage €15/22). Hammam Baños Árabes (Map p801; %958 22 99 78; www.hammamspain
.com/granada in Spanish; Calle Santa Ana 16; bath/bath & massage €16/25) is older and smaller.

Escuela Carmen de las Cuevas (Map pp796-7; %958 .com; Avenida del Mediterráneo s/n; admission adult/under 18
22 10 62; www.carmencuevas.com; Cuesta de los Chinos €4.50/3.50;h10am-7pm Tue-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun & holidays)
15, Albayzin) This private school attracts students from as should keep the kids happily absorbed for
far away as the United States, and no wonder. The passion hours. Playing giant chess or threading the
and enthusiasm of staff and students is extraordinary. The Plant Labyrinth are just two activities they
school teaches Spanish language and culture, and flamenco can do here. It’s about 900 metres south of
dance and guitar from beginners to advanced. A two-week the centre, near the Palacio de Congresos
intensive language course (40 hours) costs €300. conference centre.
If even less intellectual exertion is called for,
Tours then Parque Federico Garcia Lorca (p803) offers
Granavisión (%902 33 00 02) Offers guided tours of refreshing, flat open space for both children
the Alhambra and Generalife (€49) and Historic Granada and parents. The park abounds in broad paved
tours (€48). Phone direct or book through a travel agent. paths and is also a great place to study gra-
City Sightseeing Granada (%902 10 10 81) Oper- nadinos at leisure.

ANDALUCÍA
ates Granada’s double-decker city tour bus. It has 20 stops
outside the main sights. Hop on and off where you like; the Sleeping
ticket (€15) is valid for 24 hours. Granada is almost oversupplied with hotels,
Granada Tapas Tours (%619 444984; www.grana however, it’s definitely worthwhile booking
datapastours.com). Friendly and fluent in both Scots and ahead from March to October, and especially
Spanish, your guide will steer you to independently chosen during Semana Santa and Christmas.
favourite bars for drinks, tapas and information about the
city, starting at around €65 for two including drinks and BUDGET
tapas. At busy times, prime-location rooms tend
to fill up before noon, especially on Cuesta
Festivals & Events de Gomérez.
Semana Santa (Holy Week) This and the Feria de Corpus Camping Sierra Nevada (%958 15 00 62; Avenida
Christi are the big two. Benches are set up in Plaza del de Madrid 107; per adult/child/tent/car €5.70/4.85/5.70/5.75;
Carmen to view the Semana Santa processions. s) Close to the bus station, 2.5km north-
Día de la Cruz (Day of the Cross) Squares, patios and balco- west of the centre, this camping ground is big,
nies are adorned with floral crosses (the Cruces de Mayo) and jolly and well run. Bathrooms are plain and
become the setting for typical andaluz revelry on 3 May. clean, and there is a laundrette. Gates close at
Feria de Corpus Christi (Corpus Christi Fair) Fair- midnight and reopen at 7.00am. Bus 3 runs
grounds, bullfights, more drinking and sevillanas. Next between here and the centre.
celebrated 11 June 2009, 3 June 2010. Hostal Venecia (Map p801; %958 22 39 87; Cuesta de
Festival Internacional de Música y Danza (www Gomérez 2; r €32, s/d/tr/q without bathroom €19/30/53/60) A
.granadafestival.org) Running for 2½ weeks from late June to lovely hostal with friendly hosts and flower-
early July, this festival features mainly classical performances, and-picture-filled turquoise corridors, just
some free, many in historic locations. Explore the website off Plaza Nueva.
early as popular performances are sold out very quickly. Hostal Britz (Map p801; %/fax 958 22 36 52; Cuesta de
Gomérez 1; s/d €25/35, s/d without bathroom €32/46) The
Granada for Children friendly, efficient Britz has 22 clean, func-
With four buildings and eight interactive tional rooms with double glazing, gleaming
exhibition areas, Granada’s popular Parque wooden surfaces and central heating. There’s
de las Ciencias (%958 13 19 00; www.parqueciencias also a lift.
 806 G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E • • G r a n a d a Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

Oasis Backpackers’ Hostel (Map p801; %958 21 58 www.hotelcasacapitel.com; Cuesta Aceituneros 6; s/d €73/91;
48; www.oasisgranada.com; Placeta Correo Viejo 3; dm €18, d ai), Casa del Aljarife (Map p801; %/fax 958 22 24
€40; ai) Seconds away from the Caldererías 25; www.granadainfo.com/most; Placeta de la Cruz Verde 2; r
and bars on Calle Elvira. There’s free internet €96.30; ai) and Hotel Zaguán (Map p801; %958
access, a rooftop terrace and personal safes. 21 57 30; www.hotelzaguan.com; Carrera del Darro; s €55, r
The location is tricky – best to walk up €95; ai).
Caldereria Nueva, then left down narrow A little less characterful but more central,
Calle Correo Viejo into the placeta itself. Hotel Los Tilos (Map p801; %958 26 67 12; Plaza Bib-
Hostal Landázuri (Map p801; %/fax 958 22 14 06; Rambla 4; www.hotellostilos.com; s/d €55/80; ai),
Cuesta de Gomérez 24; s/d €36/45, s/d without bathroom Hotel Maciá Plaza (Map p801; %958 22 75 36; www
€24/34, t €60, q €70; p€10) This homely place .maciahoteles.com; Plaza Nueva 4; s/d €66.50/96; pai)
boasts a terrace with Alhambra views, a cafe and Hotel Anacapri (Map p801; %958 22 74 77; www
and a helpful mother-daughter team. .hotelanacapri.com; Calle Joaquín Costa 7; s/d €66.34/96.30;
Hostal Sevilla (Map p801; %958 27 85 13; Calle Fábrica ai) are all centrally located and provide
Vieja 18; hostalsevilla@telefonica.net; s/d €27/38, without bath- the usual modern hotel comforts.
room €22/31; p) The friendly, clean Sevilla, run
by a young couple, has pretty tiles and lamp- TOP END
shades; there’s a great, large attic double. Casa Morisca Hotel (Map p798; %958 22 11 00; www.hotel
Hostal Meridiano (Map p801; %/fax 958 25 05 44; casamorisca.com; Cuesta de la Victoria 9; d interior/exterior
www.hostalpensionmeridiano.com; Calle Angulo 9; r €38, €118/148; ai) The hotel occupies a late-15th-
s/d without bathroom €18/32, 4-/6-person apt €35/40; century Albayzín mansion, with 14 stylish
pai) The energetic couple who run rooms centred on an atmospheric patio with
this hostal seem to genuinely like helping an ornamental pool and wooden galleries.
their guests. Villa Oniria (Map p801; %958 53 53 58; www.villa
oniria.com; Calle San Anton 28; s/d €140/200; pai)
ANDALUCÍA

MIDRANGE Cream and brown predominate in the spa-

Hostal La Ninfa (Map p801; %958 22 79 85; Calle Campo cious rooms and public areas. The dining
del Príncipe s/n; s/d €46/70; a) A rustic place cov- terrace is designed around oblong ponds
ered inside and out with brightly painted ripplilng with cool water. There is even a
ceramic stars and plates. It has clean, cosy basement spa.
rooms, friendly owners and an attractive Hotel Carmen de Santa Inés (Map p801; %958 22 63
breakfast room. 80; www.carmensantaines.com; Placeta de Porras 7; s/d €80/96,
Puerta de las Granadas (Map p801; %958 21 62 r with sitting room €140-222; a) This Islamic-era
30; www.hotelpuertadelasgranadas.com; Calle Cuesta de house, extended in the 16th and 17th centu-
Gomérez 14; s/d €77/99, superior r €107-80; ai) This ries, offers a lovely breakfast patio in a garden
19th-century building, renovated in modern- of myrtles, fruit trees and fountains.
minimalist style, has wooden shutters and Parador de Granada (Map p798; %958 22 14 40;
elegant furnishings www.parador.es; Calle Real de la Alhambra s/n; s/d €220/310;
Hotel América (Map p798; %958 22 74 71; www pa) The most expensive parador in Spain
.hotelamericagranada.com; Calle Real de la Alhambra 53; s/d can’t be beaten for its location within the
€70/115; hMar-Nov; ai) Within the Alhambra Alhambra and its historical connections.
grounds, the early 19th-century building Book ahead.
creates a restful ambience in contrast to the Hotel Palacio de Santa Paula (Map p801; %902
busy Alhambra foot traffic. Reserve well in 29 22 93; www.ac-hotels.com; Gran Vía de Colón; r from
advance, as rooms are limited. €276; pai) This five-star hotel, part of a
Hotel Guadalupe (Map p798; %958 22 34 23; www chain, occupies a former 16th-century con-
.hotelguadalupe.es; Avenida Los Alixares s/n; s/d €72/111; vent, some 14th-century houses with patios
pai) Almost on the Alhambra’s door- and wooden balconies, and a 19th-century
step, Guadalupe has a bright atmosphere. aristocratic house, all with a contemporary
Rooms are subdued and elegant in shades overlay and modern luxuries.
of pumpkin and cream, with Alhambra or
olive-grove views. Eating
There are several hotels in beautiful reno- Granada is one of the last bastions of that fan-
vated Albayzín mansions, including Hotel tastic practice of free tapas with every drink,
Casa del Capitel Nazarí (Map p801; %958 21 52 60; and some have an international flavour.
lonelyplanet.com G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E • • G r a n a d a 807

RESTAURANTS as feijoada or chicken stew with polenta and

Near Plaza Nueva a trendy multicultural vibe.
Café Central (Map p801; %958 22 97 06; Calle de Elvira; Om-Kalsum (Map p801; Calle Jardines 17; media raciones
tapas €2.90-3.60, raciones €7.90-9.80) Perk up with a €3) A few doors away from Poë, Om-Kalsum
strong morning coffee (€1.60) at this laid-back sticks to Arabic-influenced favourites such as
cafe with a feeling of yesteryear to it. lamb mini-tagines and chicken kebabs.
Bodegas Castañeda (Map p801; Calle Almireceros; ra- Guerrero (Map p801; %958 28 14 60; Plaza de la Trinidad
ciones from €6) An institution, and reputedly the 7; raciones €3.50-12, breakfast €5.50) This is where you
oldest bar in Granada, this kitchen whips up come for coffee and tostadas, or an English or
traditional food in a typical bodega setting. ‘American’ breakfast if you’re homesick.
Their free tapa of paella is almost enough for Cunini (Map p801; %958 25 07 77; Plaza de Pescadería
a light lunch. Get a table before 2pm as it gets 14; menú €19, mains €11-23) This place dishes up
very busy then. first-class fish and seafood as tapas if you
Antigua Castañeda (Map p801; Calle de Elvira; raciones stand at the bar, or full meals out back.
€8-16) Soak up potent ‘Costa’ wine from the Los Diamantes (Map p801; %958 22 70 70; Calle Navas
Contraviesa with a few montaditos (small 26; media raciones €6) shines when it comes to fried
sandwiches; €5 to €6). fish; Ermita Centro (%958 27 00 29; www.ermitacentro
For fresh fruit and veg, head for the large .com; Plaza Romanilla, Calle Carcel Baja 1; raciones €7.50-11)
covered Mercado Central San Agustín (Map p801; serves modern twists on traditional dishes.
Calle San Agustín; h8am-2pm Mon-Sat), a block west
of the cathedral. Camino del Ronda/Neptuno
oMomento2 (Map pp796-7; %958 52 30 09;
Albayzín www.momento2.com; Calle Neptuno; tapas €1.50-2.50; res-
The labyrinthine Albayzín holds a wealth of taurant mains €11-35; h8am-11pm Mon-Fri, 10am-midnight
eateries all tucked away in the narrow streets. Sat & Sun) Right next to Neptuno parking (just

ANDALUCÍA
Calle Calderería Nueva is a fascinating mud- off the A44-E902 at Exit 129 and near a taxi
dle of teterías, leather shops and Arabic- stop, 5 minutes into the centre) you can avoid
influenced takeaways. getting snarled in Granada traffic and have
Kasbah (Map p801; Calle Calderería Nueva 4; tea €2.30-5) some of the best food in Granada. Try the
A great choice for light snacks. It’s open ‘from morcilla blood sausage tapa with date pesto,
noon until the candles burn down’. cherry compote and a wafer of fried milk.
Restaurante Arrayanes (Map p801; %958 22 84 01;
Cuesta Marañas 4; mains €8.50-19; hfrom 8pm) Pop in CAFES
to fill up on delicious Moroccan tagine cas- Good cafes can be surprisingly elusive in
seroles. Note that Restaurante Arrayanes does Granada, but the following offer authentic
not serve alcohol. atmosphere and good breakfast fare. Try
El Ají (Map pp796-7; %958 29 29 30; San Miguel Cafe Futbol (Map p801; Plaza Mariana Pineda 6, opposite
Bajo 9; menú €10.50, mains €10-20; v) We like the tourist office) for art-nouveau decor and fresh
cool, modern interior, soft jazz, and its churros, Café Lisboa (Map p801; cnr Reyes Catolicos
menu of nontraditional meat and lively & Plaza Nueva) for its luscious apple strudel
vegetarian choices. and Café Gran Via Colón (Map p801; Gran Via 13) for
El Agua (Map p801; %958 22 33 58; Plaza Aljibe de Trillo substantial breakfasts.
7; fondues per person €14-19, minimum 2 people; hlunch
Wed-Mon, dinner daily) and Terraza las Tomasas (Map Drinking
pp796-7; %958 22 41 08; Carril de San Agustín 4; mains The best street for drinking is rather scruffy
€18-22; hdinner Wed-Sat) offer fabulous views of Calle Elvira (try above-average Taberna El Espejo
the Alhambra. at number 40) but other chilled bars line Río
Darro at the base of the Albayzín and Campo
Plaza Bib Rambla & Around del Príncipe attracts a sophisticated bunch.
In the heart of modern Granada, the plaza Bodegas Castañeda (Calle Almireceros) – see left –
and its surrounding network of streets cater and Antigua Castañeda (Calle de Elvira) – see left – are
to a range of tastes and pockets from student the most inviting and atmospheric, with out-
to executive. of-the-barrel wine and generous tapas to keep
Poë (Map p801; Calle Paz; media raciones €3) British– things going. Perch at Bar Pacurri (Map p801; %958
Angolan Poë offers Brazilian favourites such 25 27 75; Calle de Gracia 21; tapas €2.50-5; h1pm-1am), a
 808 G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E • • G r a n a d a lonelyplanet.com

small, arty bar, and munch on above-average warren, this is a genuine aficionados’ club
tapas with well-chosen wines. with a large outdoor patio. Catch a 9.30pm
performance on Thursday or Saturday.
Entertainment Situated above and to the northwest of the
The excellent monthly Guía de Granada city centre, and offering panoramic views over
(€1), available from kiosks, lists entertain- the Alhambra, the Sacromonte is Granada’s
ment venues and places to eat, including centuries-old gitano quarter. The Sacromonte
tapas bars. caves harbour touristy flamenco haunts for
which you can pre-book through hotels and
CLUBS travel agencies, some of whom offer free trans-
Look out for posters and leaflets around port. Try the Friday or Saturday midnight
town advertising live music and nontouristy shows at Los Tarantos (Map pp796-7; %958 22 45 25
flamenco. day, 958 22 24 92 night; Camino del Sacromonte 9; admission
Sala Industrial Copera (%958 25 84 49; www €24) for a lively experience.
.industrialcopera.net; Carretera Armilla, Calle la Paz, ware-
house 7; admission varied; h12pm-late, Fri & Sat) This OTHER ENTERTAINMENT
warehouse club is where serious clubbers go Centro Cultural Manuel de Falla (Map p798; %958 22
for all-nighters, with a constantly changing 00 22; Paseo de los Mártires s/n) A haven for classical
schedule of live acts. You can count on lots music lovers, this venue near the Alhambra
of techno and hip hop, and DJs from Ibiza, presents weekly orchestral concerts in a leafy
Madrid and Barcelona. Get a cab. and tranquil setting.
Granada 10 (Map p801; Calle Cárcel Baja; admission €6; Teatro Alhambra (Map pp798; %958 22 04 47; Calle
hfrom midnight, closed mid-Jul & Aug) A glittery con- de Molinos 56) and the more central Teatro Isabel
verted cinema is now Granada’s top club for La Católica (Map p801; %958 22 15 14; Acera del Casino)
the glam crowd, who recline on the gold sofas have ongoing programs of theatre and con-
ANDALUCÍA

and go crazy to cheesy Spanish pop tunes. certs (sometimes flamenco) and a reputation
Planta Baja (Map p801; %630 950824; Calle Horno de for more adventurous programming than
Abad 11; www.plantabaja.net; admission €5; h12.30am- similar venues in Granada.
6am Tue-Sat) Planta Baja’s popularity never
seems to wane, and it’s no wonder since it Shopping
caters to a diverse crowd and has top DJs Classic pots with distinctive granadino green
like Vadim. There’s old school, hip hop, funk or blue-and-white glazing can be bought at
and electroglam downstairs, and lazy lounge Cerámica Fabre (Map p801; Calle Pescadería s/n). A dis-
sessions on the top floor. tinctive local craft is taracea (marquetry), used
Afrodisia (Map pp796-7; www.afrodisiaclub.com; Edificio on boxes, tables and more – the best have shell,
Corona, Calle Almona del Boquerón; admission free; h11pm- silver or mother-of-pearl inlays. Marquetry
late) If you dig Granada’s ganja-driven scene, experts can be seen at work in Laguna Taller de
this is where you’ll find a like-minded lot. Taracea (Map p798). Other granadino crafts in-
DJs spin hip hop, ska, reggae, funk and even clude embossed leather, guitars, wrought iron,
jazz on Sundays. brass and copper ware, basket weaving and
textiles. Look out for these in the Alcaicería
FLAMENCO and Albayzín, on Cuesta de Gomérez and in
El Eshavira (Map pp796-7; %958 29 08 29; www.eshavira the government-run Artespaña in Corral del
.com; Postigo de la Cuna 2; hfrom 10pm) Duck down Carbón (Map p801).
a spooky alley to this shadowy haunt of fla- The Plaza Nueva area is awash with jewel-
menco and jazz. It is jam-packed on Thursday lery vendors, selling from rugs laid out on the
and Sunday, the performance nights. pavement, and ethnic-clothing shops.
El Upsetter (Map p801; %958 22 72 96; Carrera del For general shopping try pedestrianised
Darro 7; admission for flamenco show €12; h11pm-late) Calle de los Mesones or expensive department
The Upsetter has a decent nightly flamenco store El Corte Inglés (Map p801).
show from 10pm to midnight only, and dou-
bles as a dreadlock-swinging reggae bar for Getting There & Away
the rest of the week. AIR
Peña de la Platería (Map pp796-7; %958 21 06 50; Iberia (%902 40 05 00; www.iberia.com) flies daily
Placeta de Toqueros 7) Buried deep in the Albayzín to and from Madrid and Barcelona. From
lonelyplanet.com G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E • • A r o u n d G r a n a d a 809

the UK, Ryanair (www.rynanair.com) flies daily the cathedral, and at the entrance to the bus
to Granada. station. A taxi costs €18 to €22 depending on
traffic conditions and pickup point.
BUS
Granada’s bus station (Map pp796-7; Carretera de Jaén) BUS
is nearly 3km northwest of the city centre. All City buses cost €1.10. Tourist offices have leaf-
services operate from here, except those going lets showing routes. Bus 3 runs between the bus
to a few nearby destinations, such as Fuente station and the Palacio de Congresos conference
Vaqueros (p810). Alsina Graells (%958 18 54 80) runs centre, via Gran Vía de Colón in the city centre.
to Córdoba (€12 to €16.60, 2¾ hours direct, To reach the city centre from the train station,
nine daily), Seville (€18.57, three hours direct, walk to Avenida de la Constitución and pick
8 daily), Málaga (€9, 1½ hours direct, 16 daily) up bus 4, 6, 7, 9 or 11 going to the right (east).
and Las Alpujarras (see p812 for details). From the centre (Gran Vía de Colón) to the
Alsina also handles buses to destinations in train station, take number 3, 4, 6, 9 or 11. Routes
Jaén province and on the Granada, Málaga 30, 31, 32 and 34 are special tourist minibuses
and Almería coasts, and to Madrid (€15.66, plying in and around the Alhambra and the
five to six hours, 10 to 13 daily). Albayzin. Route 33 takes you to and from the
ALSA (%902 42 22 42; www.alsa.es) operates buses bus station, through the centre of the city, and
up the Mediterranean coast to Barcelona northeast towards the Sierra Nevada.
(€65.96 to €76.99, seven to 10 hours, four daily)
and to many international destinations. CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Vehicle access to the Plaza Nueva area is re-
CAR stricted by red lights and little black posts
Car rental is expensive. ATA (Map p801; %958 22 40 known as pilonas, which block certain streets
04; Plaza Cuchilleros 1) has small cars (e.g. Renault during certain times of the day. If you are

ANDALUCÍA
Clio) for €72.70/46.30/34.90 per day for one/ going to stay at a hotel near Plaza Nueva, press
two/seven days. You would be better advised to the button next to your hotel’s name beside
take a taxi to the airport (€18 to €22) where four the pilonas to contact reception, which will be
or five good car-hire operators have offices. able to lower the pilonas for you.
Many hotels, especially in the midrange
TRAIN and above, have their own parking facili-
The train station (Map pp796-7; %958 24 02 02; ties. Central underground public car parks
Avenida de Andaluces) is 1.5km west of the centre, include Parking San Agustín (Calle San Agustín; per
off Avenida de la Constitución. Four trains hr/day €1/16), Parking Neptuno (Calle Neptuno, A44-E902,
run daily to/from Seville (€21.65, three hours) exit 129) and Parking Plaza Puerta Real (Acera del Darro;
and Almería (€14.45, 2¼ hours) via Guadix, per hr/day €1/12). Free parking is available at the
and six daily to/from Antequera (€6.70 to €8, Alhambra car parks.
1½ hours). Three go to Ronda (€12.25, three
hours) and Algeciras (€18.35, 4½ hours). For TAXI
Málaga (€13.45, 2½ hours) or Córdoba (€16.40, If you’re after a taxi, head for Plaza Nueva,
four hours) take an Algeciras train and change where they line up. Most fares within the city
at Bobadilla (€8.25, 1½ hours). One or two cost between €4.50 and €8.50.
trains go to each of Madrid (€62.20, four to
five hours), Valencia (€46.10 to €72.30, 7½ to AROUND GRANADA
eight hours) and Barcelona (€56.30 to €104.30, Granada is surrounded by a fertile plain called
12 to 14½ hours). La Vega, planted with poplar groves and crops
ranging from melons to tobacco. The Vega was
Getting Around an inspiration to Federico García Lorca, who
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT was born and died here. The Parque Federico
The airport (%958 24 52 23) is 17km west of the García Lorca, between the villages of Víznar
city on the A92. Autocares J González (%958 49 01 and Alfacar (about 2.5km from each), marks
64) runs buses between the airport and a stop the site where Lorca and hundreds, possibly
near the Palacio de Congresos (€3, five daily), thousands, of others are believed to have been
with a stop in the city centre on Gran Vía de shot and buried by the Nationalists, at the
Colón, where a schedule is posted opposite start of the civil war.
 810 G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E • • S i e r r a N e v a d a lonelyplanet.com

Fuente Vaqueros It can get overcrowded at weekends and holi-

The touchingly modest house where Lorca day times. The ski season normally lasts from
was born in 1898, in this otherwise unremark- December to April.
able suburb 17km west of Granada, is now the The resort has 70 marked downhill runs
Casa Museo Federico García Lorca (%958 51 64 53; (mainly red and blue with a few black and
www.museogarcialorca.org in Spanish; Calle Poeta Federico green) totalling over 80km, a dedicated snow-
García Lorca 4; admission €1.80; guided visits hourly 10am-1pm boarding area and some cross-country routes.
& 5-7pm Tue-Sat Apr-Jun, to 2pm & 6-8pm Tue-Sat Jul-Sep, Some runs start almost at the top of Veleta,
10am-1pm & 4-6pm Tue-Sat Oct-Mar). The place brings the Sierra Nevada’s second-highest peak. A
his spirit to life, with numerous charming one-day ski pass plus rental of skis, boots and
photos, posters and costumes from his plays stocks or snowboard costs €50 to €60 depend-
and paintings illustrating his poems. A short ing when you go. The resort has several ski
video captures him in action with the touring and snowboard schools: six hours’ skiing in-
Teatro Barraca. struction in group classes costs €63.
Buses to Fuente Vaqueros (€1.50, 20 Nonskiers can ride cable cars up from
minutes) by Ureña (%958 45 41 54) leave from Pradollano (2100m) to Borreguiles (2645m)
Avenida de Andaluces in front of Granada for €10 return, and then ice-skate, dogsled
train station, roughly once an hour from 9am or snowshoe. One cable car has wheelchair
during the week, and at 9am, 11am, 1pm and access. Outside the ski season Sierra Nevada
5pm at weekends and holidays. Activa (www.sierranevadaactiva.com in Spanish) oper-
ates a host of warmer-weather activities, such
SIERRA NEVADA as mountain biking, trekking, horse riding
The Sierra Nevada, which includes mainland and canyoning.
Spain’s highest peak, Mulhacén (3479m), The ski station has around 20 hotels, hos-
ANDALUCÍA

forms an almost year-round snowy south- tales and apartment-hotels. None are cheap
eastern backdrop to Granada. The range (double rooms mostly start at €80) and res-
stretches about 75km from west to east, ex- ervations are always advisable. Ski packages,
tending into Almería province. All its high- which can be booked through the station’s
est peaks (3000m or more) are towards the website or phone number, start at around
Granada end. The upper reaches of the range €150 per person for two days and two nights,
form the 862-sq-km Parque Nacional Sierra with half board and lift passes. Book two
Nevada, Spain’s biggest national park, with a weeks ahead, if you can.
rare high-altitude environment that is home Dorm rooms at youth hostel Instalación
to about 2100 of Spain’s 7000 plant species. Juvenil Sierra Nevada (%958 57 51 16; Calle Peñones
Andalucía’s largest ibex population (about 22; dm incl breakfast under/over 26yr €25/30; p) sleep
5000) is here too. Surrounding the national from two to four, including six doubles with
park at lower altitudes is the 848-sq-km Parque wheelchair access. The stark modern exte-
Natural Sierra Nevada. The mountains and the rior encloses a stark, modern interior, and
Alpujarras valleys (p812) comprise one of the many school groups use this hostal. Albergue
most spectacular areas in Spain, and the area Universitario (%958 48 01 22; Peñones de San Francisco,
offers wonderful opportunities for walking, Monachil; www.nevadensis.com/albergue_sierra_nevada
horse riding, climbing, mountain biking and, .html; hall year; dm €25/38, d €25/45 half-board; p),
in winter, good skiing and snowboarding. a big chalet-style hostal, offers plain, com-
The Centro de Visitantes El Dornajo (%958 34 06 fortable accommodation in a remote setting.
25; h10am-2pm & 6-8pm Apr-Sep, 10am-2pm & 4-6pm Oct- Adventure days out can be booked here. At
Mar), about 23km from Granada, on the A395 Hotel Apartamentos Trevenque (%958 48 08 62; www
towards the ski station, has plenty of informa- .cetursa.es; Plaza de Andalucía 6; s/d €114/147; p) studios
tion on the Sierra Nevada. Knowledgeable, for two come complete with kitchenette, TV
English-speaking staff are happy to help. and DVD, plus good food and views. Alpine-
style Hotel Ziryab (%958 48 05 12; www.cetursa.es; Plaza
Estación de Esquí Sierra Nevada de Andalucía; s/d €128/179; hlate Nov-early May; s)
The Sierra Nevada Ski Station (%958 24 91 36; near the foot of the resort provides soaring
www.sierranevadaski.com; h10am-2pm & 4pm-6pm), at views from the cosy bar/restaurant. Ice skat-
Pradollano, 33km southeast of Granada, is ing, dog sledding and sleigh rides can all be
one of Spain’s biggest and liveliest ski resorts. booked here, and it’s wheelchair accessible.
 0 5 km
WESTERN SIERRA NEVADA & ALPUJARRAS 0 3 miles
Cerro Trevélez
To Centro de Visitantes A395 Río El Cuervo La Atalaya Horcajo (2877m)
El Dornajo (8km); Hoya de la (3152m) (3107m) Chullo
Mora (3182m) Puerto San Juan
Granada (30km) Peñón del (2612m)

Va
de Trevélez (2786m)
To Jerez Puerto

lde
Borreguiles (2800m)
del Marquesado (2750m)
(2645m) Puntal de (10km) a N e v
Vacares e r r a
lonelyplanet.com

casillas
Las Posiciones (3129m) S i d a
Pradollano (Estación de
r Esquí Sierra Nevada; del Veleta (3020m)
Díla Alcazaba
Río 2100m) Veleta (3366m)
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈ (3395m) Refugio Vivac Mulhacén

Refugio Vivac
La Caldera (3479m)
Cañada de Siete
Lagunas
Tosal del Cartujo Río
(3152m) La Carigüela Culo de
Per
ro
Bayárcal
a

acén
R
S i e r r
Río de

Refugio
Caballo Poqueira

Mulh ío
Río Chico
(3010m)
ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈ d a Cortijo Las

Río Grande
Laro

N e v a Tomas
les
Las Alpujarras

El Chorrillo Parque Natural Laroles

Trevélez Nechite
(2727m) Mirador de Sierra Nevada Mairena
Trevélez Parque Nacional
Central de (2680m)
al

Sierra Nevada

Río de Mecina
Parque Nacional Poqueira Válor
Sierra Nevada Puerto

rón
La Cebadilla
ayárc

Molina

4
Mecina Yegen

o
Bombarón

Lanja
Río B

Río
Bérchules Golco

Path N
ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈ

Río
Hoya del Cherín
Portillo Alcútar Ugíjar

Capileira

Trevélez
Yátor
Narila
Laujar de
Bubión A7210 Juvíles Andarax (9km);
Pampaneira Capilerilla Pórtugos Portichuelo Almería (86km)
Parque Natural Timar Cádiar
Río

de Cástaras
Sierra Nevada La Taha Busquístar Yá Lucainena

ra
Pitres Atalbéitar to r

uei
Cáñar Soportújar

q
Mecina Ferreirola Lobras
ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈ Carataunas
A7210
Mecinilla Fondales
Cástaras
Jorairátar
Darrical

Río Po
Lanjarón Bayacas Ermita del GRANADA
Notáez
Padre Eterno
A348 Río Guadalfeo
L Almegíjar A345 Cojáyar ALMERÍA
To Granada A
(45km) Órgiva S S
A
da lfeo R
Río Gua A L P U J A R Parque Natural
MurtasSierra Nevada
To Vélez de Embalse
Benaudalla (9km); A348 Parque Nacional Sierra Nevada
ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈ
Motril (22km)
A346 To Albuñol
(34km)
Torvizcón To Albuñol
(22km)
Road Closed (special permit required)
de Beninar
G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E • • W e s t e r n S i e r r a N e v a d a & A l p u j a r r a s 811

ANDALUCÍA
Ὀ
 812 G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E • • L a s A l p u j a r r a s lonelyplanet.com

WALKING THE SIERRA NEVADA

The Sierra Nevada’s two highest peaks, Mulhacén (3479m) and Veleta (3395m), rise to the southeast
of the ski station and above the head of the Poqueira valley in Las Alpujarras to their south. In the
warmer seasons the mountains and Las Alpujarras offer wonderful walking, but the best conditions
in the high mountains (early July to early September) unfortunately don’t coincide with the most
comfortable months down in the Alpujarras. In the Sierra Nevada – which are serious mountains –
be prepared for cloud, rain or strong, icy winds any day, and come well equipped.
Many exciting walks start where the national park shuttle bus routes drop you (below). From
the Posiciones del Veleta it’s about 4km to the top of Veleta, an ascent of some 370m (1½ hours),
14km to the top of Mulhacén (four to five hours), or about 15km (six hours) all the way over
to the Mirador de Trevélez. From the Mirador de Trevélez it’s around three hours to the top of
Mulhacén (6km, 800m ascent).
You can sleep overnight in high-mountain refuges. Refugio Poqueira (%958 34 33 49; dm €9),
with bunks, hot showers and meals (breakfast/dinner €3.50/10), is towards the top of the Poqueira
valley at 2500m, a 4km walk from the Mirador de Trevélez. Phone ahead if possible. Two refugios
vivac (stone shelters with boards to sleep on) are free but reservations are not possible: Refugio
Vivac La Caldera is below the west flank of Mulhacén, a 1½-hour walk up from Refugio Poqueira;
Refugio Vivac La Carigüela is a 2½-hour walk west along the road from Refugio La Caldera, at
the 3200m Collado del Veleta pass below the summit of Veleta.

Getting There & Away LAS ALPUJARRAS

In the ski season Autocares Bonal (%958 46 50 Below the southern flank of the Sierra Nevada
ANDALUCÍA

22) operates three daily buses (four at week- lies the 70km-long jumble of valleys known
ends) from Granada bus station to the ski as Las Alpujarras. Arid hillsides split by deep
station (one way/return €4.20/7.50, one ravines alternate with oasis-like white villages
hour). Outside the ski season there’s just one set beside rapid streams and surrounded by
bus daily (9am from Granada, 5pm from gardens, orchards and woodlands. An infinity
Pradollano). A taxi from Granada to the ski of good walking routes links valley villages
station costs around €45. and heads up into the Sierra Nevada: the best
A road climbs right over the Sierra Nevada times to visit are between April and mid-June,
from the ski station to Capileira village in Las and mid-September and early November.
Alpujarras, on the southern side of the range, A recent upsurge in tourism, New Age set-
but it’s snowbound much of the year and in tlers and foreign (mainly British) settlers has
any case always closed to private motor vehi- given the area a new dimension.
cles between Hoya de la Mora (2550m), 3km
up from Pradollano, and Hoya del Portillo History
(2150m), 12.5km above Capileira. From about In the 10th and 11th centuries the Alpujarras,
late June to the end of October the national settled by Berbers, was a great silkworm
park shuttle-bus services, called the Servicio farm for the workshops of Almería. But after
de Interpretación Ambiental Altas Cumbres Granada fell to Ferdinand and Isabella in
(High Peaks Environmental Interpretation 1492, the industry languished and many vil-
Service), run about 6km up the road from lages were abandoned.
Hoya de la Mora (to the Posiciones del Veleta, South from Granada by Gerald Brenan,
at 3020m) and some 21km up from Capileira an Englishman who lived in the Alpujarras
(to the Mirador de Trevélez, at 2680m). village of Yegen in the 1920s and ’30s, gives
Tickets (one way/return €4.50/7 on either a fascinating picture of what was then a
route) and further information are available very isolated, superstitious corner of Spain.
from the national park information posts at Another Englishman, Chris Stewart, settled
Hoya de la Mora (%630 959739; hduring bus-service here more recently, as a sheep farmer near
season approx 8.30am-2.30pm & 3.30-7.30pm) and at Órgiva. His entertaining best-selling Driving
Hoya del Portillo, Capileira (%958 76 34 86, 686 over Lemons tells of life as a foreigner in Las
414576; hyear-round approx 9am-2pm & 4.30-7.30pm). Alpujarras in the ’90s.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E • • L a s A l p u j a r r a s 813

Lanjarón touristy) in Las Alpujarras. Capileira is the

Known as ‘the gateway to the Alpujarras’, best base for walks.
Lanjarón’s heyday was during the late 19th and
early 20th centuries, when it was a fashionable INFORMATION
balneario or spa. Today, although Lanjarón You’ll find ATMs outside the car-park en-
water is sold all over Spain, the spa is visited trance in Pampaneira, and in Capileira at La
largely by elderly Spanish cure-seekers. Yet the General (Calle Doctor Castilla).
town has authentic charms. Traditional fam- Punto de Información Parque Nacional de Sierra
ily life is lived along its main streets, Avenida Nevada (%958 76 31 27; www.nevadensis.com; Plaza
Alpujarra and Avenida Andalucía. The tourist de la Libertad, Pampaneira; h10am-2pm & 4-6pm
office (%958 77 04 62; Avenida de la Alpujarra) opposite Tue-Sat, to 3pm Sun & Mon, Oct-March) Plenty of informa-
the balneario provides comprehensive infor- tion about Las Alpujarras and Sierra Nevada; outdoor gear,
mation on outdoor activities and accommoda- maps and books for sale.
tion for the entire Alpujarras region. Servicio de Interpretación de Altos Cumbres
Eat at seafood restaurant Los Mariscos in (%958 76 34 86, 686 41 45 76; happrox 9am-2pm & 4.30-
Avenida de la Alpujarra, where 70-something 7.30pm) By the main road in Capileira; information mainly
Granny Callejón still presides over the homely about the national park, but also on Las Alpujarras.
kitchen and everything is cooked from fresh in-
gredients. A good vegetarian option is friendly SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Bar Health at the other end of town in Calle All three villages have solid 16th-century
Señor de la Expiración, with generous salads Mudéjar churches (hMass times). They also have
and pastas. small weaving workshops, descendants of a
textile tradition that goes back to Islamic
Órgiva times, and plentiful craft shops. In Bubión, get
a marvellous glimpse of bygone Alpujarras

ANDALUCÍA
pop 6500 / elev 725m
The western Alpujarras’ main town, Órgiva, life at the excellent little folk museum, Casa
is a scruffy but bustling place with a big Alpujarreña (Calle Real; admission €2; h11am-2pm Sun-
hippy–New Age element. Good places to eat Thu, to 2pm & 5-7pm Fri, Sat & holidays), beside the
include El Limonero where the chef’s passion for church.
local ingredients is put to good use in a hand- Eight walking trails, ranging from 4km to
some room; La Almazara (Avenida González Robles; 23km (two to eight hours), are marked out
menú €12), with inventive dishes and excellent in the beautiful Barranco de Poqueira with
pizza served in an orange grove all summer; little colour-coded posts. Their starting points
and vegetarian brunch/lunch options at wel- can be hard to find, but they are marked and
coming Café Libertad in Calle Libertad. described on Editorial Alpina’s Sierra Nevada,
Stay at Hotel Taray Botánico (%958 78 45 25; www La Alpujarra map (see the boxed text, p814).
.hoteltaray.com; A348 Km18.5; s/d €70/83; pais), Nevadensis (%958 76 31 27; www.nevadensis.com), at
where the owners love their hotel and it the information office in Pampaneira, offers
shows. Set in lush gardens just south of the hikes and treks, 4WD trips, horse riding,
centre, with rustic-style rooms and a good mountain biking, climbing and canyoning,
restaurant, plus two lovely big pools. Book with knowledgeable guides.
well ahead in summer. A cheaper option is
Camping Puerta de las Alpujarras (%958 78 44 50; SLEEPING & EATING
www.puertalpujarra.com; A348 Carretera Lanjarón-Orgiva; Book ahead for rooms around Easter and from
adult/under 11 years/tent & car €4.50/3/9), handily lo- July to September. Many villages have apart-
cated for the High Alpujarras with a big pool, ments and houses for rent; ask in tourist of-
pleasant restaurant. fices or check websites such as Turgranada (www
.turgranada.com) or Rustic Blue (www.rustic blue.com).
Pampaneira, Bubión & Capileira
pop 1270 / elev 1200-1440m Pampaneira
These small villages clinging to the side of A good value hostal at the entrance to the vil-
the deep Barranco de Poqueira valley, 14km lage is Hostal Pampaneira (%958 76 30 02; Avenida
to 20km northeast of Órgiva, are three of the Alpujarra 1; s/d €28/40 incl. breakfast) with a friendly
prettiest, most dramatically sited (and most local owner. Restaurante Casa Diego (%958 76
 814 G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E • • L a s A l p u j a r r a s lonelyplanet.com

30 15; Plaza de la Libertad 3; mains €6.50-13.50), along The beautiful valley below it, with five tran-
the street, has a pleasant upstairs terrace and quil hamlets (Mecina, Mecinilla, Fondales,
serves local trout and ham. Ferreirola and Atalbéitar), all grouped with
Pitres in the municipio called La Taha, is par-
Bubión ticularly fascinating to explore. Its ancient
Hostal Las Terrazas (%958 76 30 34; www.terrazas pathways are a walkers’ delight.
alpujarra.com; Plaza del Sol 7; s/d €22/33, 2-/4-/6-person apt In an ancient village house, welcoming
€48/59/77) is located below the main road and French-run guesthouse L’Atelier (%958 85 75 01;
near the car park. Traditional Teide Restaurant www.ivu.org/atelier; Calle Alberca 21, Mecina; s/d €35/50, incl
(%958 76 30 37; Carretera de Sierra Nevada 2; menú €10) breakfast; hdinner Wed-Mon; v) also serves gour-
has a good menú del dia while Estación 4 (%958 met vegetarian meals and has an art gallery. In
76 31 16; Calle Estación 4; mains €7-12) inhabits an old peaceful Ferreirola, Sierra y Mar (%958 76 61 71;
village house. www.sierraymar.com; Calle Albaicín, Ferreirola; s/d/t incl break-
fast €36/56/76) has just nine rooms set around
Capileira patios and gardens. Back in Mecina, Hotel
Hostal Atalaya (%958 76 30 25; www.hostalatalaya.com; Albergue de Mecina (%958 76 62 41; Calle La Fuente s/n,
Calle Perchel 3; s/d incl breakfast; s/d with view €30/38, without Mecina; s/d/tr €60/88/107; pis) is modern and
view €18/30) is a good budget option, while Finca comfortable with a helpful English-speaking
Los Llanos (%958 76 30 71; www.hotelfincalosllanos.com; owner and wheelchair access.
Carretera de Sierra Nevada; s/d €50/75; pis) has
tasteful rooms, a pool and a good restaurant. Trevélez
It’s also an official Sierra Nevada information pop 1150 / elev 1476m
point. Renovated farmhouse Cortijo Catifalarga Trevélez, in a valley almost as impressive as
(%958 34 33 57; www.catifalarga.com; d €80-95, apt from the Poqueira Gorge, claims to be the high-
ANDALUCÍA

€95; mains €8-16; pv) is stunning. The driveway est village in Spain (although Valdelinares,
begins 750m up the Sierra Nevada road from Aragón, reaches above 1700m) and produces
the top of Capileira, and both the views and its famous jamón serrano.
eclectic food are way up there. At Restaurante On a leafy, terraced hillside 1km west of
Ibero-Fusión (%958 76 32 56; Calle Parra 1; salads €7-10, Trevélez, Camping Trevélez (%/fax 958 85 87 35;
mains €10-12.50 hdinner, closed Tue; v) just below www.campingtrevelez.net; Carretera Trevélez-Órgiva Km1;
the church, enjoy a rare andaluz, Arabic and sites per adult/tent/car/cabin €4.50/5/3.80/19; hclosed
Indian fusion restaurant with plenty of veg- Jan-mid Feb; pis) has ecologically minded
etarian specialities and great views from the owners and a good-value restaurant. Walkers’
pleasant upstairs dining room. favourite Hotel La Fragua I & II (%958 85 86 26; Calle
San Antonio 4; s/d €30/40, Fragua II, d/tr €50/65, mains €7.50-
Pitres & La Taha 12.50; i) provides pine-furnished rooms, with
pop 800 a more upmarket annex at La Fragua II. Its
Pitres (elevation 1245m) is a break from restaurant, Mesón La Fragua, a few doors away,
the tourism and souvenirs in the Poqueira is one of the best in town and worth searching
Gorge villages, although not quite as pretty. out. More central Hotel Pepe Álvarez (%958 85
85 03; www.andalucia.co.uk; Plaza Francisco Abellán s/n; s/d
€25/45, mains €6-11) has some terraces overlooking
SIERRA NEVADA & ALPUJARRAS the busy plaza.
MAPS
The best overall maps of the area are East of Trevélez
Editorial Alpina’s Sierra Nevada, La Alpujarra East of Trevélez the landscape becomes barer
(1:40,000) and Editorial Penibética’s Sierra and more arid, yet there are still oases of green-
Nevada (1:50,000). Both come with booklets, ery around the villages. The central and east-
in English or Spanish, describing walking, ern Alpujarras have their own magic but see
biking and skiing routes. An invaluable far fewer tourists than the western villages.
resource is 34 Alpujarras Walks by Charles
Davis, published by Discovery Walking BÉRCHULES
Guides, which has an accompanying Tours Seventeen kilometres from Trevélez, Bérchules
& Trails map. is in a green valley stretching far back into the
hills, with attractive walks. Hotel Los Bérchules
lonelyplanet.com G R A N A D A P R O V I N C E • • T h e C o a s t 815

(%958 85 25 30; www.hotelberchules.com; Carretera s/n; .com in Spanish; Calle Jardines 1; s/d €34-42/42-58; a), on
s/d/apt €35/50/75; mains €7.50-12; pis), by the a quiet street about 400m from the tourist
main road, has bright rooms, helpful English- office. Its French owners have entirely re-
speaking hosts who can help with activities, placed conventional power with solar energy.
and an excellent restaurant (try local rabbit Well-sited Hotel Avenida (%958 61 15 44; www
in garlic sauce). .hotelavenidatropical.com; Avenida Mediterráneo 35; s/d/tr €42-
60/60-95/80-115; pai) offers phone, satellite
YEGEN TV and bathtub, plus its own cafe-restaurant
Gerald Brenan’s home in the 1920s is 12km and wheelchair access. There are loads of res-
east of Bérchules, off the main plaza with the taurants and beachside chiringuitos on and
fountain. Several walking routes have been near the beachfront. Two of the best are La
marked out locally, including a 2km ‘Sendero Bahia and El Peñon, which face each other.
de Gerald Brenan’. El Rincón de Yegen (%958
85 12 70; www.aldearural.com/rincondeyegen; s/d/apt Almuñécar
€30/42/90; mains €8-16, hclosed Feb, restaurant closed pop 23,000
Tue; ps), on the eastern edge of the village, From the highway Almuñécar seems an un-
has simply furnished rooms and an excellent, inviting group of apartment blocks with peb-
medium-priced restaurant. bly beaches, but it has a more attractive older
heart around the 16th-century castle. The bus
Getting There & Away station (%958 63 01 40; Avenida Juan Carlos I 1) is just
Alsina Graells (%958 18 54 80) runs three daily south of the N340. The main tourist office (%958
buses from Granada to Órgiva (€4, 1½ hours), 63 11 25; www.almunecar.info; Avenida Europa s/n; h10am-
Pampaneira (€5, two hours), Bubión (€5.50, 2pm all year & 6-9pm, Jul-mid Sep, 5-8pm mid-Sep–end Oct &
2¼ hours), Capileira (€5.50, 2½ hours) and Apr-end Jun, 4.30-7pm Nov-Mar) is 1km southwest, just
Pitres (€5.50, 2¾ hours). Two of these con- back from Playa de San Cristóbal, in a rose-

ANDALUCÍA
tinue to Trevélez (€6.50, 3¼ hours) and pink 19th-century palacete with lovely gardens
Bérchules (€7.50, 3¾ hours). The return buses that is a tourist sight in its own right.
start from Bérchules at 5am and 5pm, and Just behind Playa de San Cristóbal is a
from Pitres at 3.30pm. Alsina also runs twice- tropical-bird aviary, Parque Ornitológico Loro-
daily buses from Granada to Cádiar (€7, three Sexi (%958 63 02 80; adult/child €4/2; h11am-2pm all
hours) and Yegen (€8, 3½ hours). year & 6-9pm approx Jul–mid-Sep, 5-7pm approx mid-Sep–Oct
& Apr-Jun, 4-6pm Nov-Mar).
THE COAST You can paraglide, windsurf, dive, sail, ride
Granada’s rugged, cliff-lined, 80km coast a horse or descend canyons in and around
has a few reasonably attractive beach towns, Almuñécar and nearby La Herradura. The
linked by several daily buses to Granada, tourist office and its website have plenty
Málaga and Almería. of information.
Just off the winding N340 coast road, Hostal
Salobreña California (%958 88 10 38; www.hotelcaliforniaspain
pop 11,000 .com; Carretera N340 Km313; s/d €38/56; pv) is re-
On a crag overlooking the Mediterranean, old freshingly different, with colourful touches
Salobreña’s white houses seem scattered from of Moroccan style and tasty food, including
an overturned sugar bowl. The very helpful vegetarian options. The hotel offers special
tourist office (%958 61 03 14; Plaza de Goya; h9.30am- packages for paragliders as the owner is an
1.30pm & 4.30-6.30pm Tue-Sun, to 1.30pm Mon) is 200m expert and enthusiast. In town, streamlined
off the N340. Up at the top of the town is the Hotel Casablanca (%958 63 55 75; www.almunecar.info/
impressive 13th-century Castillo Árabe (admission casablanca; Plaza de San Cristóbal 4; s/d €48/70; pa) is
€2.80; h10.30am-1.30pm & 6-9pm Jun-Oct, 4-7pm Nov- furnished in distinctive Al-Andalus style, with
May). The ticket also includes the nearby Museo sea views from some rooms.
Arqueológico, open the same hours. Below all If you tire of seafood on the beach, Los
this are two beaches, separated by a rocky prom- Geraneos (%958 63 40 20; Plaza de La Rosa 4; mains
ontory, one pebbly, one sandy, and both ex- €9.50-15; h1-5pm & 7.30-late, closed Sun evening & Mon)
tremely popular with granadinos in August. is a pleasantly blue-trimmed townhouse res-
A fine place to stay is the spick-and-span taurant. The best first-floor tables view the
Hostal San Juan (%958 61 17 29; www.hostalsanjuan plaza through long French windows.
 816 J A É N P R O V I N C E • • J a é n lonelyplanet.com

JAÉN PROVINCE Tourist office (%953 19 04 55; otjaen@andalucia.org;

Calle Ramón y Cajal 1; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm
Though life here has traditionally been a Oct-Mar, to 1pm Sat, Sun & holidays) Helpful, multilingual
struggle, both nature and history have lav- staff with plenty of free information about the city and
ished their gifts on Jaén. Set on Andalucía’s province.
border with Castilla-La Mancha, Jaén alter-
nates between wild mountain ranges, ravish- Sights
ing Renaissance towns and rolling country Jaén’s huge cathedral (%953 23 42 33; h8.30am-
covered with lines of olive trees (Jaén alone 1pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat Oct-Mar, to 1pm & 5-8pm Mon-Sat
produces about 10% of the world’s olive oil). Apr-Sep, 9am-1pm & 5-7pm Sun) was built mainly in
Nature has blessed the eye as well as the pal- the 16th and 17th centuries, and mainly to the
ate, with the dramatic mountain ranges of the Renaissance designs of Andrés de Vandelvira –
Parque Natural de Cazorla in the east of the though the southwestern facade on Plaza de
province. Jaén’s diet includes plenty of game Santa María sports a dramatic array of 17th-
(partridge, venison, wild boar) meats. century baroque statuary.
The Renaissance Palacio de Villardompardo
JAÉN (%953 23 62 92; Plaza de Santa Luisa de Marillac; admission
pop 116,500 / elev 575m free with passport; h9am-8pm Tue-Fri, 9.30am-2.30pm Sat
The provincial capital is a bustling university & Sun, closed holidays) houses three excellent attrac-
city with some excellent tapas tucked away in tions and is worth tracking down: the beauti-
its narrowest streets. ful 11th-century Baños Árabes (Arab Baths),
with a transparent walkway for viewing the
Orientation excavated baths; the Museo de Artes y Costumbres
Old Jaén, dominated by the huge cathedral, Populares, devoted to the artefacts of the harsh
ANDALUCÍA

huddles beneath the high, castle-crowned rural lifestyle of pre-industrial Jaén province;
Cerro de Santa Catalina. The focal point of the and the Museo Internacional de Arte Naïf, with a
newer part of town is Plaza de la Constitución, large international collection of colourful and
200m northeast and downhill from the cathe- witty naive art. You can spend hours lost in
dral. From here the main artery of the new the everyday detail so playfully depicted in
city, Calle Roldán y Marín, becoming Paseo these works.
de la Estación, heads northwest to the train The Museo Provincial (%953 31 33 39; Paseo de
station, 1km away. la Estación 27; adult/EU citizen €1.50/free; h2.30-8.30pm
Tue, 9am-8.30pm Wed-Sat, to 2.30pm Sun) has the finest
Information collection of 5th-century-BC Iberian sculp-
There’s no shortage of banks or ATMs around tures in Spain. Found in Porcuna, they show
Plaza de la Constitución. a clear Greek influence in their fluid form and
Cyber Cu@k (Calle de Adarves Bajos 24; per 30min €1.20; graceful design.
h10.30am-3pm & 5.00pm-1am Mon-Fri, 11am-3pm & Jaén’s most exhilarating spot is the top
4.30pm-12am Sat, Sun) of the Cerro de Santa Catalina, where the
Librería Metrópolis (Calle del Cerón 17) Good for Castillo de Santa Catalina (%953 12 07 33; admission
maps. €3; h10am-2pm & 5-9pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, 3.30-7pm

MASS FERVOUR IN THE SIERRA MORENA

On the last Sunday of every April, around half a million people converge on a remote shrine
in the Sierra Morena in the northwest of Jaén province for one of Spain’s biggest religious
gatherings, the festive pilgrimage known as the Romería de la Virgen de la Cabeza. The original
13th-century Santuario de la Virgen de la Cabeza, 31km north of Andújar, was destroyed in
the civil war, when Francoist troops occupying it were besieged by the Republicans for eight
months, but the shrine has since been rebuilt. The annual festivities see a tiny statue of the
Virgin Mary, known as La Morenita (the Little Brown One), being carried around the Cerro del
Cabezo for about four hours from about 11am. It’s a festive and emotive occasion, with children
and items of clothing being passed over the heads of the crowd to priests who touch them
to the Virgin’s mantle.
 0 200 m
JAÉN 0 0.1 miles

n
cito Español
jér

lE
To Train Station

r Luzó
C del Ob

de
Av del E
INFORMATION EATING 6 (350m) ispo Alon
so

ales
jér

C
c Suárez

Av
Cyber Cu@k...................................1 F4 Mesón Río Chico..........................12 E3

Docto
ito

C
Ca

vison
Es
Librería Metrópolis.........................2 D3 Taberna
CarreCasa
tera dGorreón................. 13 D4

rm
eC illán de
lonelyplanet.com

de
C de M

pa
Tourist Office................................ 3 D4 órd
Taberna La Manchega................. 14 D4 Pri

C del
elo
ob esa

ño
a eg Cd

s Pro
l A
o eM l C de Ba

rq
To
ina
s

uit
Madrid

rre
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES DRINKING Parque

érece
s
Plaza

ect
Baños Árabes...............................(see 7) Café el Consuelo......................... 15 D4 de las de la

o
Batallas Victoria

C Alf
Castillo de Santa Catalina...............4 B3 El Azulejo......................................16 E4

Be
Av de
Cathedral....................................... 5 D4 Iroquai..........................................17 F3 n ista pez
ó

rge
ro L

s
a

C
Museo de Artes y Costumbres am C Czález
n
Alh Go

de
Populares.................................(see 7) TRANSPORT Plaza de de Reino

M
Museo Internacional de Arte Naïf..(see 7) Bus Station....................................18 E2 Santa Luisa C C del Santo ctor

illá
de Marillac

n
C Doz Ulla
rés

d
Museo Provincial.............................6 E1

d
Plaza de Góme
To Parador (600m); C

An
C Sosa

eP
Magdalena Cortés

r
Palacio de Villardompardo..............7 C2 18 pe de

n
Castillo de Santa Jua Santo D 7 C Capitán

C Reyes

ieg
om Sa

Católicos
Plaza de

o
Catalina (700m) n it C de Lo anos
o el in Artes
de ruz Coca de l o s

go
SLEEPING C de

i lla
a C

C
la Piñera

Paseo de la
ant

st

Prac
E2

t
Hostal Carlos V...............................8 F la S Ca

ic a

oo
e

t
C Tres Mo
Hotel Europa...................................9 E2

n
C de rillas

t
pa e C de a C d To Baeza (48km);
lén

Hotel Xauen..................................10 E3 th Santa Clar C Juan

Plaza de
Be

Rincón Ubeda (57km);

San Juan
Estación
Parador Castillo de Santa Catalina..11 A3 C Arroyo Granada (93km);
de

C San Jos
de S 9 é Gazorla (102km);
P e d ro Plaza de

C
Plaza de los

C
sta

C
Belén
e

Jardinillos

Al
d
8

M
Cu

C Navas de Tolo

m
ar
Ca

tí
sa

e S
rre C Madre

end
e
an

te
Soledad TAcosta

z
Av d
orres

ra
Cerro de e Gr
12

ros
apilla

C
anad
a

M
Bart
Santa Catalina C Nu
Pase

C de
de
nC

de
oli
eva
o

Vergara

A gu
na
Sa
irge

Cir
y Marín

il a r
C del Docto

olóme
C Roldán
de l

Cl
CV

Sagaz Zube r
lzu
e

cun
Plaza de Plaza S
a Fe

ra m e
C ive
de

Santiago C anas he

val
Bartolomé nte ci
ria

ac

a
de rC Plaza de la Gra
D o ct o Calv Plaza

ció
ert

11 d el 10 Constitución

n
C l Áng

o de
a

r
ría

C o
Pu el

To Parador (800m); 4 Toros

uat

de

Plaza del od
C Doctor Eduardo Arroyo
ro
C CTorres

Castillo de Santa Mercado Central Te

sc a

San Francisco Deán Mazas de s

Catalina (850m)
Pe

o da
C

Co ló n n ar 17

Buenavista
la C de

C de ria rn
C d

Plaza de San
e

CM
Plaza del So Ildefonso Be
2 é a s
los

de adre L
C

do
Bajos

Dio Pósito nab

s r C
d

rta
Cd
Ála

Arco de el Be Hu ca
e

14 Ce
de de rni
s

San Lorenzo 3 1
la

Ga
es

13 ró C C z
mo n

15
M

Plaza 16 ño
arv

Mu
ae
ra

as del San
s
Ad

m
me

a
tra

pan Francisco C de
de

sC
Ro

C Arco del C la
C

Consuelo 5 el
igu
Go

s CM
bisp
o

Jesú C de
C Onzález

o
Valparaiso or
de C T
C de Josefa Sego o
ra Plaza via eg
arre de Santa Di
e
C

María d
te
uen
C de la F
J A É N P R O V I N C E • • J a é n 817

ANDALUCÍA
 818 J A É N P R O V I N C E • • B a e z a Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

Tue-Sun Oct-Mar) was surrendered to Fernando Drinking

III in 1246 by Granada after a six-month siege. Cool drinking spots include stylish El Azulejo
Audiovisual gimmicks add fun to the visit to (Calle de Hurtado 8) playing everything from pop to
the castle’s keep, chapel and dungeon. The electronic to jazz, and Iroquai (Calle de Adarves Bajos
castle is a circuitous 4km drive from the city 53), which usually has live rock, blues, flamenco
centre (€6.50 by taxi), but you can walk up in or fusion on Thursday. And at streamlined Café
45 minutes using a steep path almost opposite el Consuelo (Calle Arco del Consuelo 12; hbreakfast 9am-
the top of Calle de Buenavista. 1pm, 8pm-3am) the personable young owner prides
himself on making the best mojitos in town.
Sleeping
Hostal Carlos V (%953 22 20 91; Avenida de Madrid 4, Getting There & Away
2nd fl; s/d without bathroom €24/38; ai) The best The bus station (%953 25 01 06; Plaza de Coca
budget option in town, the well-located family- de la Piñera) is 250m north of Plaza de la
run Carlos V provides pleasant rooms with Constitución. Destinations include Granada
wrought-iron beds and TV. (€7.85, 1½ hours, 14 daily), Baeza (€4.10, 45
Hotel Xauen (%953 24 07 89; www.hotelxauenjaen minutes, up to 11 daily), Úbeda (€5, 1¼ hours,
.com; Plaza del Deán Mazas 3; s/d €56/84; pai) The up to 12 daily), Córdoba (€8.22, 1½ hours,
central, business-oriented Xauen has adequate seven daily), Cazorla (€7.50, two hours, two
facilities for a stopover, though the bathrooms daily) and Madrid (€23.02, four hours, up to
are rather tired. five daily).
Hotel Europa (%953 22 27 00; www.husa.es; Plaza de Most days there are only five departures
Belén 1; s/d €41/65; pai) Rooms are attractive from the train station (%902 24 02 02); one, at 8am,
and spacious, and the Europa’s location off goes to Córdoba (€8.85, 1½ hours) and Seville
Avenida de Granada makes it a convenient (€17.10, three hours), and up to four go to
option for drivers.
ANDALUCÍA

Madrid (€23.20 to €27.40, 2¾ to four hours).

Parador Castillo de Santa Catalina (%953 23 00
00; www.parador.es; s/d €119/149; pais) Next BAEZA
to the castle at the top of the Cerro de Santa pop 17,000 / elev 790m
Catalina, this hotel has an incomparable This country town, 48km northeast of
setting and theatrically vaulted halls. Rooms Jaén, is replete with gorgeous Gothic and
are luxuriously dignified, featuring four-post Renaissance buildings from the 16th century,
beds, and there is an excellent restaurant when local nobility ploughed much of their
(mains €16 to €32). wealth from grain-growing and textiles into
magnificent architecture.
Eating
oTaberna Casa Gorreón (%953 23 20 00; Orientation & Information
www.tabernagorrion.es in Spanish; Calle Arco del Consuelo 7; The heart of town is Plaza de España and the
h1.30pm-5pm Tue, Wed, Thu, 8am-12.30pm Sun & Mon) A adjacent Paseo de la Constitución. The tourist
Jaén institution since 1888, with its original tiled office (%953 77 99 82/83; Plaza del Pópulo; h9am-
floor, copper sink and long bar. Aficionados 7.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-3pm, Sat, Sun & fiestas Apr-Sep) is
come here for the topaz-yellow queso manchego just southwest of Paseo de la Constitución.
(Manchego cheese) and sweet wine aged in the
taverna’s own barrels. Attracting an interesting Sights
and sociable crowd, El Gorreón may well be the Opening times of some buildings vary
ultimate tapas experience. unpredictably.
In fact, the Jaén tapas trail is full of pleasant In the centre of beautiful Plaza del Pópulo is
surprises, especially along tiny Calle del Cerón the Fuente de los Leones (Fountain of the Lions),
and Arco del Consuelo. One such is Taberna topped by an ancient statue believed to rep-
La Manchega (%953 23 21 92; Calle Bernardo López 12; resent Imilce, a local Iberian princess who
platos combinados €7.50; hlunch & dinner Wed-Mon), a was married to Hannibal. On the southern
terrific old-town bar where food is cheap and side of the plaza is the Plateresque Casa del
tasty. Smarter and more central, Mesón Río Chico Pópulo from about 1540 (housing Baeza’s
(%953 24 08 02; Calle Nueva 12; raciones €12-18, mains €14- helpful tourist office).
24) offers an informal downstairs taberna and Now a high school, Baeza’s Antigua
a more expensive restaurant upstairs. Universidad (Old University; Calle Beato Juan de Ávila; admis-
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels J A É N P R O V I N C E • • Ú b e d a 819

sion free; h10am-1pm & 4-6pm Thu-Tue) was founded Getting There & Away
in 1538. The main patio has two levels of el- From the bus station (%953 74 04 68; Paseo Arco del
egant Renaissance arches. Round the corner Agua), 700m east of Plaza de España, buses go
is the early-16th-century Palacio de Jabalquinto to Jaén (€3.85, 45 minutes, 11 daily), Úbeda
(Plaza Santa Cruz; admission free; h9am-2pm Mon-Fri), a (€1.10, 30 minutes, 15 daily), Cazorla (€4.41,
mansion with a flamboyant Isabelline-Gothic 2¼ hours, two daily) and Granada (€11.34,
facade and lovely Renaissance patio with a 2¼ hours, five daily)
fantastically carved baroque stairway. Across Linares-Baeza train station (%953 65 02 02) is
the square, the 13th-century Iglesia de la Santa 13km northwest. Buses connect with most
Cruz (h11am-1.00pm & 4.30-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-1pm trains Monday to Saturday; a taxi is €15.
Sun), one of the first churches to be built in
Andalucía after the Reconquista, may be the ÚBEDA
only Romanesque church in Andalucía. pop 35,000 / elev 760m
Baeza’s eclectic cathedral (Plaza de Santa María; Just 9km east of Baeza, Úbeda’s architecture
donations welcome; h10.30am-1pm & 5-7pm Apr-Sep) is rivals its neighbour’s. Sixteenth century gran-
chiefly in 16th-century Renaissance style, with dee Francisco de los Cobos y Molina became
an interior designed by Andrés de Vandelvira first secretary to Carlos I; his nephew, Juan
and Jerónimo del Prado. One chapel displays Vázquez de Molina, succeeded him in the
a life-size Last Supper, with finely detailed job and kept it under Felipe II. They lavished
wax figures and Mary in Victorian flounces their wealth on a profusion of Renaissance
of cream lace and pearls. mansions and churches – many of them de-
A block north of Paseo de la Constitución, signed by Jaén’s Renaissance master, Andrés
the ayuntamiento (Town Hall; Paseo del Cardenal Benavides de Vandelvira (b. 1509).
9) has a marvellous plateresque facade.
Orientation & Information

ANDALUCÍA
Sleeping & Eating The fine architecture is mostly in the south-
With such a wealth of built heritage, there are eastern old part of town, a web of narrow
several beautifully restored hotel conversions streets and expansive plazas. Budget ac-
to choose from in Baeza. commodation and the bus station are in the
Stylishly restored Hotel Palacete Santa Ana more down-to-earth new town in the west
(%953 74 16 57; www.palacetesantana.com; Calle Santa and north.
Ana Vieja 9; s/d €42/66; a) has its own museum in The tourist office (%953 77 92 04; Calle Baja del
what was a 16th-century nunnery. Hospedería Marqués 4; h9am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-3pm Sat, Sun &
Fuentenueva (%953 74 31 00; www.fuentenueva.com; holidays) is in the 18th-century Palacio Marqués
Calle del Carmen 15; s/d incl breakfast €52/78;ais), de Contadero in the old town.
a former women’s prison, now has big, beauti-
ful rooms with matt-black slate shower rooms. Sights
Hotel Baeza Monumental (%953 74 72 82; www.hotel PLAZA VÁZQUEZ DE MOLINA
baezamonumental.com; Calle Cuesta de Prieto, 6; s/d Mon-Thu This plaza, Úbeda’s crown jewel, is sur-
€46/50, Fri-Sun-€70-95; pai) is a slick, modern rounded by beautiful 15th- and 16th-century
revamp. Hotel Puerta de la Luna (%953 74 70 19; buildings.
www.hotelpuertadelaluna.com in Spanish; Calle Canónigo The Capilla de El Salvador (admission €2.25;
Melgares Raya s/n; s/d Mon-Thu €75/95, Fri-Sun €105/129; h10am-2pm & 4.30-7pm) faces the eastern end of
pais) is quietly luxurious, with crisp the plaza. Founded in the 1540s by Francisco
damask sheets and antique accessories. de los Cobos y Molina as his family funerary
Hearty meals are found at La Góndola (%953 chapel, it was Vandelvira’s first commission in
74 29 84; Portales Carbonería 13, Paseo de la Constitución; Úbeda. The basic concept is by Diego de Siloé,
mains €12-20) The terrific local atmosphere here architect of Granada cathedral, but Vandelvira
is helped along by the glowing wood-burning added plenty of his own touches, including the
grill, cheerful service and good food. At re- elaborate main facade, an outstanding piece of
stored convent Restaurante Vandelvira (%953 plateresque design. Lit up at night, the whole
74 81 72; Calle de San Francisco 14; mains €8-22; hclosed facade seems to come to life. The sacristy, by
Sun night & Mon) treat yourself to dishes such as Vandelvira, has a portrait of Francisco de los
partridge pâté salad or solomillo al carbón Cobos y Molina. The Cobos family crypt lies
(char-grilled steak). beneath the nave.
 820 J A É N P R O V I N C E • • Ú b e d a Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

0 200 m
ÚBEDA 0 0.1 miles

To Bailén l
aja To Cazorla Barrio
(41km) yC (46km)

CC
ón San Millán

a
m

na d
Ra

orco
Av
de Santiago

C Trinidad
p la

C Trillo
Sa

C
as

les
n

Ex

a
Ca
C
sé

in

gu
NI

C
M

m
o
co
C San Jo

Ar
CA
a

pa
C Niñ
C lá s n ci

iza
C
ale

na
17 Vic 16
tor CV

rio
ia eros
Redonda

C Calder C Ob a l Plaza de los

is po Puerto Market oñ
4 a dr Olleros
n Fernando M

rce e la
der a de Sa C Cr

C
Corre uz
Hierro de

Mesta d
d
To Baeza (9km); C Obispo Cobos

C Sec
Jaèn (57km)

Fu a
Av de la Constitución

Plaza de

e
C Las Parras

Cu
en
C
Andalucia

te
Plaza 8

Mo
C Alaminos

C Ce
de
C Sagasta

12

C Prior Blanca

CM
ntie
Toros sa

l
C
Lo

rvantes
Re

ura
C
C Rastro

Cd
al

lla
el Ca
Toralspo
5

de San Millán
Plaza de 11 6

rmen
C Obi
San Pedro Plaza
del 1°
Plaza del Marqués 2 de Mayo
de la Rambla 13
INFORMATION CS
ant 15
va

Tourist Office...............................1 C2 o Plaza del

Do
C Ca

mi 1 14 Ayuntamiento
n 9
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES C Cor azón 7 10
go

Antiguo Ayuntamiento................2 C2 de Jesus 3

C Baja de
Capilla de El Salvador...................3 C3 Plaza Vázquez El Salvador
Hospital de Santiago.....................4 A1 EATING de Molina
Iglesia de San Pablo.....................5 C2 La Imprenta................................12 B2 C de S MaríaAcosta
de Torres

Museo de San Juan de la Cruz.....6 D2 Mesón Restaurante Navarro.......13 C2

Palacio de Vázquez de Molina......7 C2 Restaurante El Seco....................14 C2
Palacio del Deán Ortega..........(see 11)
Soledad

SHOPPING
ANDALUCÍA

SLEEPING Alfarería Tito..............................15 C2

Hostal Victoria.............................8 A2 Potters' Workshops....................16 D1
Hotel María de Molina.................9 C2
Parador Condestable Dávalos.....10 C2 TRANSPORT
Rosaleda de Don Pedro..............11 C2 Bus Station.................................17 A1

Next to the Capilla de El Salvador stands gious reformer St John of the Cross, who died
what was the abode of its chaplains – in fact here in 1591. Even if you can’t understand
one of Vandelvira’s best palaces, the Palacio del the Spanish-speaking monks who guide all
Deán Ortega. It’s now Úbeda’s parador. visits, you’ll still get to marvel at some of the
The harmonious proportions of the saint’s mystical memorabilia.
Italianate Palacio de Vázquez de Molina (h10am-
2pm & 5-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun), at the western HOSPITAL DE SANTIAGO
end of the plaza, make it one of the finest Completed in 1575, Andrés de Vandelvira’s
buildings in the town. Now Úbeda’s town last building (Calle Obispo Cobos; admission free; h8am-
hall, it was built around 1562 by Vandelvira 2.30pm & 5-10pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3pm Sat & Sun) is on the
for Juan Vázquez de Molina, whose coat of western side of town. This impressive late-
arms surmounts the doorway. Renaissance masterpiece has been dubbed
the ‘Escorial of Andalucía’. Off the classic
PLAZA 1 DE MAYO & AROUND Vandelvira two-level patio are a chapel, now
Plaza 1 de Mayo used to be Úbeda’s market restored as an auditorium (the hospital is now
square and bullring, and the Inquisition burnt a busy cultural centre), and a staircase with
heretics where its kiosk now stands. Worthies colourful frescoes.
would watch from the gallery of the elegant
16th-century Antiguo Ayuntamiento (Old Town Sleeping & Eating
Hall) in the southwestern corner. Along the Hostal Victoria (%953 75 29 52; Calle Alaminos 5; s/d
top (northern) side of the square is the Iglesia €26/40; pa) Superfriendly Señora Victoria
de San Pablo (h11am-1.30pm & 7-8pm Mon-Sat), with has run this backpackers’ choice for over 20
a fine late-Gothic portal from 1511. years. It’s near the bullring just behind the
The Museo de San Juan de la Cruz (%953 75 main shopping street, a cafe-studded stroll
06 15; Calle del Carmen; admission €1.50; h11am-1pm & from the historic old quarter, and offers
5-7pm Tue-Sun) is devoted to the mystic and reli- wheelchair access.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels J A É N P R O V I N C E • • C a z o r l a 821

Rosaleda de Don Pedro (%953 79 61 11; www (€3.46, 45 minutes, up to 10 daily) and
.rosaledadedonpedro.com; Calle Obispo Toral 2; s €65-80, d Granada (€11.34, 2¾ hours, seven daily).
€80-115; pais) Back in the old town, this
option offers three-star facilities, wheelchair CAZORLA
access, a good restaurant and the only pool pop. 8250 / elev 885m
in the historic centre. All standard rooms are Cazorla, 45km east of Úbeda, is the main gate-
adapted for wheelchair users. way to the Parque Natural de Cazorla and a
Hotel María de Molina (%953 79 53 56; www.hotel quaintly intriguing hillside town of narrow
-maria-de-molina.com in Spanish; Plaza del Ayuntamiento; s old streets in its own right. It can get pretty
€53-61, d € 84-94; ai) This handsome hotel oc- busy at Spanish holiday times. Hunting and
cupies a 16th-century palacio on picturesque shooting are the dominant pastimes here, with
Plaza Ayuntamiento. Well-appointed rooms game proudly displayed on restaurant walls
are arranged around a typical patio, and the and plates all over town.
hotel has a good restaurant.
Parador Condestable Dávalos (%953 75 03 45; www Orientation & Information
.parador.es; Plaza Vázquez de Molina; s/d €114/159; ai) Three plazas delineate the town’s central axis:
Overlooks the magnificent Plaza Vázquez de Plaza de la Constitución is the main square of
Molina and its restaurant serves up elegant the northern, newer part of town; Plaza de la
dishes (around €14 to €22). Try local speciali- Corredera is 150m further south along Calle
ties such as carruécano (green peppers stuffed Doctor Muñoz; and Plaza de Santa María,
with partridge) or cabrito guisado con piñones downhill through narrow, winding streets
(stewed kid with pine nuts). another 300m southeast, is the heart of the
Mesón Restaurante Navarro (%953 79 06 38; oldest part of town.
Plaza del Ayuntamiento 2; raciones €6-14) Less exalted The Oficina de Turismo Municipal (%953 72 08
perhaps but great fun, this is a no-frills local 75; Calle Narra 8; h10am-1pm & 5.00-7.30pm) is 200m

ANDALUCÍA
favourite. Best ración is tortitas de camarones north of Plaza de la Constitución.
(crisply fried prawn mini-omelettes).
Restaurante El Seco (%953 79 14 52; Calle Corazón Sights
de Jesús 8; menú €14) Has good traditional dishes At one end of lovely Plaza de Santa María is the
such as steaming carne de monte (usually large shell of the Iglesia de Santa María. It was built
venison) with a rich tomato sauce. by Andrés de Vandelvira in the 16th century
La Imprenta (%953 75 55 00; Plaza del Doctor but wrecked by Napoleonic troops. A short
Quesada 1; mains €16-25; hclosed Tue) A renovated walk up from here, the ancient Castillo de la Yedra
number, formerly Ubeda’s print works, La houses the Museo del Alto Guadalquivir (adult/EU citizen
Imprenta serves an inspired fusion menu of €1.50/free; h2.30-8pm Tue, 9am-8pm Wed-Sat, to 2pm Sun &
local ingredients. holidays), with art and relics of past local life.

Shopping Sleeping & Eating

The typical green glaze on Úbeda’s attractive Hotel Guadalquivir (%953 72 02 68; www.hguadalqui
pottery dates back to Islamic times. Several vir.com in Spanish; Calle Nueva 6; s/d €36/48; a) The
workshops on Cuesta de la Merced and Calle Guadalquivir has comfortable, pine-furnished
Valencia in the Barrio San Millán, the pot- rooms and big bathrooms. The singles can
ters’ quarter northeast of the old town, sell be a bit cramped, but it’s good value in an
their wares on the spot, and the potters are excellent location seconds from the Plaza de
often willing to explain some of the ancient la Corredera.
techniques they still use. Alfarería Tito (Plaza del Hotel Tharsis (%953 721 313; www.tharsiscazorla.com in
Ayuntamiento 12) has a large selection too. Tito’s Spanish; Calle Hilario Marco 51-53; s/d €50/65 + IVA, incl breakfast;
intricately made blue-and-cream ware is hclosed Jan; pai) This midrange, midtown
particularly covetable. hotel is a boon for motorists with its ample
parking, friendly management and pleasant
Getting There & Away modern rooms behind its rather dull facade.
The bus station (%953 75 21 57; Calle San José 6) is in Molino la Farraga (%953 72 12 49; www.molinola
the new part of town. Destinations include farraga.com; Calle Camino de la Hoz s/n; d €70 incl breakfast;
Baeza (€0.90, 30 minutes, 15 daily), Jaén hclosed mid-Dec–25 Feb; is) The tranquil old
(€4.50, 1¼ hours, up to 12 daily), Cazorla La Farraga mill, set in romantic gardens, is
 ὈὈὈὈὈ
Ὀ
822 J A É N P R O V I N C E • • C a z o r l a Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

0 5 km
AROUND CAZORLA 0 3 miles

ὈὈὈὈὈ
A B C To Tranco (12km); D
To Villacarrillo Hotel de Montaña los Parrales (15km); Embalse del
(3km) Hornos (28km); Puerto de Horno de Peguera (38km); Tranco de Beas
Segura de la Sierra (48km); El Yelmo (44km);
Mogón Sierra de Santiago de la Espada (61km)
Las Villas
1
7

ὈὈὈὈὈ
8
6
Coto Ríos

Río
Parque Natural de

Ag
Sierra 10
las Sierras de Cazorla, am

u
de Las Segura y Las Villas ulas
Santo Villas
Tomé Torre del 1 2 Banderillas
Chilluevar Vinagre (1993m)

r
ivi

ὈὈὈὈὈ
2 Rí

qu
o
A319 al Rí Bo
ad o ros
Gu Bo
a W
11 Río Cerrada r os alk
a
de Elías 4

Puerto de Laguna de
las Palomas Aguas Negras To Pontones (20km);
To Peal De Santiago de la Espada (25km)
Becerro (4km); Arroyo Frío

ὈὈὈὈὈ
Úbeda (37km); Mirador Paso del Aire
Baeza (46km); Burunchel Laguna de
Jaén (94km) Valdeazores
A319
A319 Cascada de Linarejos
a

3
l

Sendero de la
r

Cazorla Cerrada del Utrero

ín
La Iruela
ANDALUCÍA

nt
Empalme Vadillo Castril ale Empanadas
z

del Valle 9 GRANADA

ad
(2107m)
a

u
Cabez

12
oG

Parque Natural
C

Sierra de Castril

ὈὈὈὈὈ
Rí

Carretera la
Virgen de
l
e
d

El Chorro Sierra de
Cazorla Drive
Gilillo INFORMATION
r a

(1848m) Centro de Interpretación Torre del

Vinagre......................................1 C2 SLEEPING
e r

Camping Chopera Coto Ríos..........6 C1

4 Quesada SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Camping Fuente de la Pascuala......7 D1
S i

5 Botanic Garden.............................. 2 C2 Camping Llanos de Arance.............8 C1

3 Cañada de las Fuentes....................3 B4 Complejo Puente de las Herrerías...9 B3
Puerto Lorente Central Eléctrica.............................4 D2 Hotel de Montaña La Hortizuela..10 C2
To Pozo Museo de Caza............................(see 1) Hotel Noguera de la Sierpe...........11 C2
Alcón (23km); Nacimiento del Guadalquivir...........5 B4 Parador de Cazorla.......................12 B3
Baza (66km)

just up the valley from Plaza Santa María. You Mesón Don Chema (%953 72 00 68; Calle Escaleras
have to park in the public spaces and walk del Mercado 2; mains €10-18) Down a lane off Calle
100 metres up the steep path, but waiting for Doctor Muñoz, this hunting-themed restau-
you is an exquisite house and the warmest of rant in a hunting-mad town serves up classic
welcomes from Marisa. local fare; try the ciervo (venison) in an intense
Hotel Ciudad de Cazorla (%953 72 17 00; Plaza de la wine sauce with pine nuts.
Corredera 9; s/d incl breakfast €63/74; pais) This Mesón Leandro (%953 72 06 32; Plaza de Santa Maria;
modern structure on mansion-ruled Plaza de mains €7-18.50; hclosed Tue) Tucked away in the
Corredera has had resistance from tradition- furthest corner of this pretty plaza near the
minded locals, but it’s a good building with ruins of Iglesia Santa Maria, Mesón Leandro
spacious rooms and all the requisite facilities. serves reasonably good and well-priced tra-
Rincón Serrano (Plaza de la Corredera; raciones €8) ditional food in a handsome, tranquil room
Several bars on Cazorla’s three main squares with classical music.
serve good tapas and raciones. Rincón Serrano
has the best location: perched high in the Getting There & Away
southeast corner of the Plaza with command- Alsina Graells runs buses to/from Úbeda
ing views over this bustling square. (€3.35, 45 minutes, up to 10 daily), Jaén
lonelyplanet.com J A É N P R O V I N C E • • Pa r q u e N a t u r a l d e C a z o r l a 823

(€7.37, two hours, two daily) and Granada Sights & Activities
(€14.12, 3½ hours, two daily). The main stop SIERRA DE CAZORLA DRIVE
in Cazorla is Plaza de la Constitución; the For those with wheels, this itinerary of about
tourist office has timetables. 60km is a good introduction to the parts of the
park nearest Cazorla, with a couple of stops to
PARQUE NATURAL DE CAZORLA stretch your legs. It’s all passable for ordinary
The Parque Natural de las Sierras de Cazorla, cars, if bumpy in places.
Segura y Las Villas, filling almost all the east Head first up to La Iruela, 1km east of
side of Jaén province, is a stunning region Cazorla, and turn right along Carretera
of rugged mountain ranges divided by high Virgen de la Cabeza. About 12km along here,
plains and deep, forested valleys, and it’s during which the road ceases to be paved, is
one of the best places in Spain for spotting El Chorro, a gorge that’s good for watching vul-
wildlife. At 2143 sq km, it’s also the big- tures. Just beyond El Chorro, ignore another
gest protected area in the country. Walkers dirt road forking down to the right. Your track
stand a good chance of seeing wild boar, red winds round over the Puerto Lorente pass and
and fallow deer, ibex and mouflon (a large down to a junction after 12km. Fork right
wild sheep). The park also supports 2300 here, and after about 200m a ‘Nacimiento del
plant species. Guadalquivir’ sign to your left points down to
The Guadalquivir, Andalucía’s longest the official source of the Guadalquivir.
river, rises in the south of the park and flows The road heads a short distance past the
north into the Embalse del Tranco de Beas Nacimiento to the Cañada de las Fuentes pic-
reservoir, then west towards the Atlantic. nic area, a convenient stop. From here head
Admittedly, you do need wheels to reach back northward down the beautiful valley
some of the most spectacular areas and walks. of the infant Guadalquivir. At a T-junction
The best times to visit are between late April

ANDALUCÍA
after 14km, about 1km beyond the northern
and June, and September and October, when end of the Complejo Puente de las Herrerías, go
the vegetation flourishes and the weather is at left; after 400m the Sendero de la Cerrada del
its best. In spring, the flowers are magnificent. Utrero begins on the right. This marked 2km-
Peak visitor periods are Semana Santa, July loop walk takes you under imposing cliffs to
and August. the Cascada de Linarejos, then above a narrow
reservoir on the Guadalquivir and back to
Orientation & Information the road. Another 3.5km west along the road
Entering the park from Cazorla, the A319 and you’re at Empalme del Valle, from which
winds over the 1200m Puerto de las Palomas it’s 17km back to Cazorla.
pass and down to the Empalme del Valle junc-
tion, where it turns north and follows the RÍO BOROSA WALK
Guadalquivir valley. Though it gets busy at weekends and holi-
The main information centre is the Centro days, this walk of about seven hours return
de Interpretación Torre del Vinagre (%953 71 30 (plus stops) is the park’s most popular for
40; h10am-2pm & 4-7pm Apr-Jun, 10am-2pm & 5-8pm good reason. It follows the course of Río
Jul-Aug, 10am-2pm & 4-6pm Nov-Mar), 16km north of Borosa upstream to two beautiful mountain
Empalme del Valle on the A319. Kids will lakes: an ascent of 500m in the course of
enjoy the interactive AV exhibits about the 12km from Torre del Vinagre. Using the bus
park’s flora and fauna. The Museo de Caza to Torre del Vinagre, you can do it as a day
(Hunting Museum) with stuffed park wildlife, trip from Cazorla (but confirm bus sched-
is in an adjoining building; a more-cheerful ules before setting off). You can top up your
botanic garden is just along the road. water bottle at good, drinkable springs along
Editorial Alpina’s 1:40,000 Sierra de the walk; the last is at the Central Eléctrica
Cazorla, which covers the south of the park hydroelectric station.
and is available in English, and Sierra de A road signed ‘Central Eléctrica’, op-
Segura, which covers the north, are the best posite Torre del Vinagre, soon crosses the
maps, showing selected walks that are de- Guadalquivir and, within 1km, reaches the
scribed in accompanying booklets. You may marked start of the walk, on your right
be able to get the maps locally, but don’t count beside Río Borosa. The first section is an
on it. unpaved road, crisscrossing the tumbling
 824 J A É N P R O V I N C E • • Pa r q u e N a t u r a l d e C a z o r l a Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

river on bridges. After 4km, where the road Tours

starts climbing to the left, take a path fork- A number of operators offer trips to some of the
ing right. This takes you through a beautiful park’s less accessible areas, plus other activities.
1.5km section, where the valley narrows to a Hotels and camping grounds in the park can
gorge, Cerrada de Elías, and the path takes to often arrange for them to pick you up.
a wooden walkway to save you from swim- Excursiones Bujarkay (%953 72 11 11; www.guias
ming. Rejoining the main track, continue nativos.com; Calle Martinez Falero, 28, Cazorla) Walking,
for 3km to the Central Eléctrica hydroelec- 4WD, biking and horse-riding trips with ‘native’ guides.
tric station. Just past this, a sign points you Tierraventura (%953 72 20 11/953 71 00 73; www
on up towards the Laguna de Valdeazores. .tierraventuracazorla.com in Spanish; Calle Ximénez de
This path will lead you, via some dramatic Rada 17, Cazorla) Multiadventure activities including
mountain scenery and two tunnels supply- canoeing, hiking, canyon descents and rock climbing.
ing water to the power station (there’s room TurisNat (%953 72 13 51; www.turisnat.org in Spanish;
to stay dry as you go through), to reservoir Paseo del Santo Cristo 17 Bajo, Edificio Parque, Cazorla)
Laguna de Aguas Negras, then the natural Laguna Offers wildlife spotting trips, photo-safaris and 4WD trips
de Valdeazores. to zonas restringidas (areas where vehicles are not normally
allowed) for €28/47 per person per half/full day.
HORNOS & EL YELMO
The small village of Hornos sits atop a high Sleeping & Eating
rocky outcrop with a romantic ruined castle There’s plenty of accommodation in the park,
and panoramic views over the northern end much of it dotted along the A319 north of
of the Embalse del Tranco. The southern ap- Empalme del Valle. At peak times it’s worth
proach is awe-inspiring. About 10km north- booking ahead. Most restaurants in the park
east of Hornos is the Puerto de Horno de are part of hotels or hostales.
Peguera pass and junction. One kilometre
ANDALUCÍA

north from here, a dirt road turns left to the CAMPING

top of El Yelmo (1809m), one of the most Camping is not allowed outside the organised
distinctive mountains in the north of the park. camping grounds. From October to April you
It’s 5km to the top, an ascent of 360m – drive- should check ahead that these are open.
able, but better as a walk, with superb views Complejo Puente de las Herrerías (%/fax 953 72 70
and griffon vultures wheeling around the skies 90; near Vadillo Castril; sites per adult/tent/car €4.80/4.40/4.40,
(plus paragliders and hang-gliders at week- caravan €5.20-6.20, 2-person cabin €48, rooms €50; pas)
ends). At a fork after 1.75km, go right. This is the largest camping ground in the park,
with room for about 1000 people, plus a restau-
SEGURA DE LA SIERRA rant and a pool. You can arrange horse riding,
The most spectacular village inside the park, canoeing, canyoning and climbing here.
Segura sits 20km north of Hornos, perched Just off the A319, between 3km and 7km
on an 1100m hill crowned by a castle. When north of Torre del Vinagre, are three medium-
taken in 1214 by the Knights of Santiago, sized camping grounds beside the Guadalquivir,
Segura was one of the very first Christian all charging between €13 and €15 for two people
conquests in Andalucía. with a tent and car:
As you reach the upper part of the village, Camping Chopera Coto Ríos (%953 71 30 05)
there’s a tourist office (%953 12 60 53; h10.30am- Camping Fuente de la Pascuala (%953 71 30 28)
2pm & 6.30-8.30pm) beside the Puerta Nueva arch. Camping Llanos de Arance (%953 71 31 39)
Segura’s two main monuments are normally
left open all day every day, but you should HOTELS & APARTMENTS
check this before proceeding. El Parral (%953 72 72 65; Arroyo Frío; 4-person apt
The Baño Moro (Muslim Bathhouse; Calle Caballeros €70; pas) Attractive, spacious apart-
Santiaguistas), built about 1150, has three elegant ments that have well-equipped kitchens and
rooms (for cold, tepid and hot baths) with scenic terraces.
horseshoe arches and barrel vaults studded Hotel de Montaña Los Parrales (%953 12 61
with skylights. The castle, at the top of the vil- 70/699 83 40 49; www.turismoencazorla.com/parrales.html in
lage, has Islamic (or maybe even earlier) ori- Spanish; Carretera del Tranco Km78; s/d €35/44, half/full board
gins. From its three-storey keep there are great €12.50/22.50 per day extra; pa) North of Tranco
views across to El Yelmo and far to the west. along the road towards Hornos, cheerful Los
lonelyplanet.com A L M E R Í A P R O V I N C E • • A l m e r í a 825

Parrales has idyllic views of the reservoir and plastic greenhouses further inland. Though
a country-style dining room. some of the coast has suffered from dreary
Hotel de Montaña La Hortizuela (%953 71 30 Costa-del-Sol–style development, the dra-
13; www.lahortizuela.com in Spanish; Carretera del Tranco matic Cabo de Gata promontory remains
Km50.5; s/d €38/58; pas) This cosy hotel with more or less pristine.
a well-kept terrace has a tranquil setting, 1km
along a signed track off the A319, 2km north ALMERÍA
of Torre del Vinagre. The restaurant serves a pop 175,000
menú at €12. The hefty, cliff-ringed Alcazaba fortress dom-
Los Enebros (%953 72 71 10; www.lfhoteles.com in inating Almería is a dramatic reminder of
Spanish; Arroyo Frío; s/d half-board €54/58, 4-person apt €111; past glories. As the chief port of the Córdoba
pas) At the northern end of Arroyo Frío caliphate and, later, capital of an 11th-century
village on the A319, this complex has a hotel, taifa, Islamic Almariya grew wealthy weaving
apartments, chalets and a small camping silk from the silkworms of the Alpujarras.
ground. The accommodation is spartan but Devastated by an earthquake in 1522, Almería
has two pools and a playground. A huge range is today an increasingly prosperous port city
of activities can be arranged here. and magnet for migrant job-seekers. Agri-
Los Huertos de Segura (%953 48 04 02; www euros from the province’s horticulture are
.loshuertosdesegura.com; Calle Castillo 11, Segura de la Sierra; helping to fund a revival, and chic bars and
2-/4-person apt €58/78; pa) Excellent apartments clubs stay open till dawn.
whose genuinely friendly and helpful owners
are full of information about tours and walk- Orientation
ing in the area. Excellent English spoken. The city centre lies between the Alcazaba and
Hotel Noguera de la Sierpe (%953 71 30 21; www.lf the Rambla de Belén, a broad promenade cre-
hoteles.com in Spanish; Carretera del Tranco Km 44; s/d €60/90; ated from a dry riverbed. Paseo de Almería,

ANDALUCÍA
pas) This curious hotel, overlooking a cutting northwest from Rambla de Belén to
picturesque little lake 5km north of Arroyo the Puerta de Purchena intersection, is the
Frío, is a hunters’ favourite and decked out main city-centre artery. The bus and train
with trophies. The rooms are comfortable, if stations are together on Plaza de la Estación,
not exactly cosy. You can arrange riding ses- east of Rambla de Belén.
sions at the hotel’s stables, and there is a good
rustic restaurant. Information
Parador de Cazorla (%953 72 70 75; www.parador.es; There are numerous banks on Paseo de
s/d €109.57/128; ps) This hunting-lodge–style Almería.
parador has a lovely pine forest setting, grassy El Libro Picasso (%950 23 56 00; Calle Reyes Católicos 9)
garden and good pool, but only nine of the 33 Excellent book and map shop with a small English-language
rooms have views. It’s at the end of the JF7094, book selection.
near Vadillo Castril. Internet Saram Corazon (Junction Calle de las Tiendas &
Calle Azara; per hr €1; h10am-2.30pm & 6pm-midnight)
Getting There & Away Ten booths, efficient service despite low-tech sweet-shop
Carcesa (%953 72 11 42) runs two daily buses frontage.
(except Sunday) from Cazorla’s Plaza de la Main post office (Behind Plaza Ecuador)
Constitución to Empalme del Valle (€1.80, Municipal tourist office (%950 28 07 48; Rambla de
30 minutes), Arroyo Frío (€2.13, 45 minutes), Belén; h8.30am-2pm & 5pm-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-
Torre del Vinagre (€3.49, one hour) and Coto 2pm Sat)
Ríos (€3.49, 70 minutes). Pick up the latest Regional tourist office (%950 27 43 55; Parque de
timetable from the Cazorla tourist office. Nicolás Salmerón s/n; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm
Sat & Sun)
Policía Local (%950 21 00 19; Calle Santos Zárate)
ALMERÍA PROVINCE Sights & Activities
Arid, inhospitable Almeria has achieved a ALCAZABA
spectacular economic comeback in recent The founding of the Alcazaba (%950 17 55 00; Calle
years, embracing tourism and mass horticul- Almanzor s/n; adult/EU citizen €1.50/free; h9-8.30pm Apr-
ture in its invernaderos, the shiny oceans of Oct & 9am-6.30pm Nov-Mar) by the Córdoba caliph
 ANDALUCÍA
0 400 m
ALMERÍA 0 0.2 miles

12 SLEEPING
s

da
co

na

Av de Pablo
C An ar Hostal Sevilla..............................12 D1

ra
tonio M G Hotel AC Almería.......................13 C2
Vico C uñ o z
de Hotel Catedral............................14 C2
C Plaza San alde M C
C Alc

Iglesias
Sebastián San
to Hotel Torreluz (Three Star).........15 C1
Plaza del sZ 4
Carmen Puerta de ára Hotel Torreluz (Two Star)...........16 C2

n
te
11 Purchena

a rí
24
10

M
as
21 EATING

C
nd
rca
e C Teno Comidas Sol de Almería.............17 D2

Lo
20 Ti Iribarner
s 15 Da Bruno...................................18 C2

)
2 Ia

rcía

de
13 La Charka..................................19 C3

a
lén
17

C
16

G
Be
La Encina Restaurante................20 C1

co
Plaza Plaza de Mercado

de
Restaurante Valentin..................21 C1

eri
7 Constitución las Flores Central

la

Fed
mb
826 A L M E R Í A P R O V I N C E • • A l m e r í a

23

a
DRINKING

de
(R
Desatino....................................22 C3

Av
El Quinto Toro...........................23 D2

C Reyes
1

z
25

an
CP Plaza de Juan ENTERTAINMENT

rS
adre Cd
Plaza Cassinello

vie
24 Luqu5 el D Peña El Taranto......................... 24 C1

C de la Reina
e

Católicos
Granero C Infa oct
nta C Antonio or G
Plaza de la Nuñez

C Ja
G o n zále s
Egea C Mendez reg
Catedral o r io TRANSPORT
18 22 Ma

Paseo de
rañ Bus for Airport........................... 25 E2

q ue z
To Málaga 14 ón
(207km) C Trajano Bus Station................................ 26 F4

bo
8

eláz
Av

Juan
CP C Rue de
edro Plaza da L la

falia

eal
19 To Hospital

C V
ópe 3
z

Almería
Bendicho

an
Jove Est
r ac i Torrecárdenas (4.5km);
ón

C R
Plaza Mini Hollywood (25km); To Airport (8km);

C S
C del Cu
nde O
Virgen Plaza Guadix (116km); Cabo de Gata (30km);
del Mar Pablo Granada (171km) Nijar (35km);
Mojácar (86km)

C Co
Cazard
9
) lén
d Lo
lén

pos
Plaza

C Pintor
Be e Be rca

Diaz Molina
Cd Barcelona
e

Cam
de

er
Ge

z
ron
a
Fed
bla mbla arcía

INFORMATION
m

rtine
de

a
El Libro Picasso............................1 D2 achad
(Ra Ra ico G

Av

Internet........................................2 C2 ma no s M
C Her

C M
Municipal Tourist Office..............3 D3 Plaza de la
Parque de 6 Estación
Policía Local..................................4 E1 26
Nicolás
Train
te

Post Office...................................5 C2 Salmerón Station

en

Regional Tourist Office................6 C4

eg

da
R

on
R

eR
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Golfo de e r ad
Av

Alcazaba (Entrance)......................7 B2 Almería r ret

Ca
Cathedral.....................................8 C3
Centro Andaluz de Fotografía......9 C3 Puerto
Comercial To Beach (600m);
Ermita de San Juan.....................10 A1 Av Eolo (800m)
Ruins of Palacio de Almotacín.....11 A1 To Melilla; de del
Ga C a b
Nador ta o
lonelyplanet.com
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels A L M E R Í A P R O V I N C E • • A l m e r í a 827

Abd ar-Rahman III in 955 was what turned and a good central location. Bathrooms are
Almería into the major port of Al-Andalus. minuscule but modern.
It still rises triumphantly from impregna- Hotel Torreluz (%950 23 43 99; www.torreluz.com;
ble cliffs and commands exhilarating views, Plaza de las Flores 2 & 3; s/d 2-star €39/64, 3-star €56/74;
though earthquakes and time have spared pa) Burnt-plum-coloured walls, comfort-
little of its internal splendour. able beds and good prices make this one of
The lowest of the Alcazaba’s three com- Almería’s best-value places to stay.
pounds, the Primer Recinto, originally served as Hotel AC Almeria (%950 23 49 99; www.acalmeria
a military camp in times of siege. The Segundo .com; Plaza de las Flores 5; s/d €100; pas) A grand
Recinto was the heart of the Alcazaba. At its four-star place with lots of brass and marble
eastern end is the Ermita de San Juan chapel, which and a huge sweeping staircase, this is a fa-
was converted from a mosque by the Catholic vourite with business clientele, and prices are
Monarchs, who took Almería in 1489. On its reduced by up to 40% at weekends.
northern side are the remains of the Muslim Hotel Catedral (%950 27 81 78: www.hotelcatedral
rulers’ palace, the Palacio de Almotacín. The Tercer .net; Plaza de la Catedral 8; s/d €110/140; ais)
Recinto, at the top end of the Alcazaba, is a Superbly located, this elegantly restored
fortress added by the Catholic Monarchs. former 19th-century house offers spacious
rooms all with broadband and satellite TV. A
CATHEDRAL smart bar and restaurant with funky touches
Almería’s weighty cathedral (Plaza de la Catedral; serves light modern Mediterranean dishes.
admission €2; h10am-2pm & 4pm-5.30pm, Mon-Fri, to 1pm
Sat) is at the heart of the old part of the city Eating
below the Alcazaba. Begun in 1524, its for- La Charka (%950 25 60 45; Calle Trajano 8; drink &
tresslike appearance, with six towers, reflects tapa €1.50) This very popular tapas haunt in
the prevalence of pirate raids from North Almería’s busiest bar area is a great spot to

ANDALUCÍA
Africa during this era. graze in the earlier part of the evening.
The interior has a Gothic ribbed ceiling Da Bruno Ristorante/Pizzeria (%950 27 72 09;
and is trimmed with jasper and local marble. Calle Martinez Almagro 8; mains €6-11.50; h12pm-4.30 &
The chapel behind the main altar contains the 8pm-12.30am) Big, cheerful, noisy pizzeria serv-
tomb of Bishop Diego Villalán, the cathedral’s ing surprisingly good salads, pizza and pasta,
founder, whose broken-nosed image is the work including an untamed, spicy arrabiatta. Kids
of Juan de Orea, who also created the Sacristía will love it.
Mayor with its fine carved stonework. Comidas Sol de Almería (Calle Circunvalación, Mercado
Centro Andaluz de Fotografía (Andalucian Central; menú €10.50; h12.30pm-4pm, closed Sun) A jolly
Photographic Centre; %950 26 96 80; Calle Pintor Diaz Molina, restaurant, opposite the busy covered market,
9; admission free; h11am-2pm & 5.30pm-9.30pm Mon-Sun) with a large sunlit yet sheltered patio behind
Whether you are a keen photographer or an it. Hungry shoppers stream in for the exten-
overheated sightseer, you will enjoy the edgy sive and hearty lunch menú.
and memorable images. Restaurante Valentín (%950 26 44 75; Calle Tenor
Iribarne 19; mains €10-15; hclosed Mon & Sep) A se-
BEACHES cluded, intimate fish restaurant with stylish
A long, grey-sand beach fronts the palm-lined service and good food.
Paseo Marítimo, east of the city’s centre. Eolo La Encina Restaurante (%950 27 34 29; Calle Marín
(%950 26 17 35; www.eolo-wind.com; Avenida del Cabo de 3; mains €16-27; hclosed Sun dinner & Mon) Good
Gata 187), nearby, organises out-of-town trips traditional dishes with a twist, including a
(€39 to €90) with English-speaking staff to ex- seven-fungi sauté. If you have space, finish
plore some of the dramatic cliffs and beaches with coconut sorbet in a moat of red berry
of the Parque Natural Cabo de Gata-Níjar by sauce.
windsurfing, kayaking, catamaran and other
water-related activities. Drinking & Entertainment
El Quinto Toro (%950 23 91 35; Calle Juan Leal 6; h12-
Sleeping 4pm, 8-12pm, closed Sat evening & Sun) Authentic, bull-
Hostal Sevilla (%950 23 00 09; Calle de Granada 23; s/d fight-flavoured tapas bar that has been a local
€38/54; a) This best budget bet is a cheerful institution since 1947. Good selection of tapas
and efficient place that offers clean rooms and friendly third-generation owner.
 828 A L M E R Í A P R O V I N C E • • A r o u n d A l m e r í a lonelyplanet.com

Desatino (Calle Trajano 14; h8pm-late) A trendy to 50 minutes from 6.35am to 10.40pm (but
bar with mirrored windows, playing Cuban less frequently on Saturday and Sunday). The
rumbas. It doesn’t open or fill up until late. last bus from the airport to the city leaves at
Peña El Taranto (%950 23 50 57; Calle Tenor Iribarne 10.33pm (10.22pm Saturday and Sunday).
20) Hidden in the renovated Aljibes Árabes
(Arab Water Cisterns), this is Almería’s top AROUND ALMERÍA
flamenco club. Live performances (€20), open Mini Hollywood
to the public, often happen at weekends. Beyond Benahadux, north of Almería, the land-
scape becomes a series of canyons and rocky
Getting There & Away wastes that look straight out of the Arizona
AIR badlands, and in the 1960s and ’70s movie-
Almería airport (%950 21 37 00) 10km east of makers shot around 150 Westerns here.
the city centre receives flights from several The movie industry has left behind three
European countries. Easyjet (www.easyjet.com) flies Wild West town sets that are open as tour-
from London Gatwick and Stansted, Ryanair ist attractions. Mini Hollywood (%950 36 52 36;
(www.ryanair.com) from Stansted, Jet2 (www.jet2 poblado@playasenator.com; adult/child €19/9; h10am-9pm
.com) from Leeds/Bradford and Monarch Airlines Apr-Oct, to 7pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar), the best known
(www.flymonarch.com) from Birmingham and and the best preserved of these, is 25km from
Manchester, Air-Berlin (www.airberlin.com) flies Almería on the N340 Tabernas road. Parts of
from Berlin and Transavia (www.transavia.com) from more than 100 movies, including A Fistful of
Amsterdam. Iberia (www.iberia.com) flies direct to/ Dollars and The Good, the Bad and the Ugly,
from Barcelona, Madrid and Melilla. were filmed here. At 5pm (and 8pm from
mid-June to mid-September) a hammed-up
BOAT bank hold-up and shootout is staged (dia-
logue in Spanish of course). Rather bizarrely,
ANDALUCÍA

Trasmediterránea (%950 23 61 55; www.trasmedi

terranea.es; Estación Marítima) sails daily to/from the ticket also includes entry to the adjoin-
Melilla and twice daily most days from June ing Reserva Zoológica. You will need your own
to September. The trip takes up to eight hours vehicle to visit from Almería.
on the slow ferry and three hours on the fast
ferry. A butaca (seat) costs €33.20 one way; Níjar
car fares start at €189.20 for a small vehicle Attractive and unusual glazed pottery and
and driver. Three Moroccan lines sail to/from colourful striped cotton rugs, known as jara-
Nador, the Moroccan town neighbouring pas, are made and sold in this small town
Melilla, with similar frequency and prices. 34km northeast of Almería. Worth a detour –
Trasmediterránea also has summer sailings Nijar was also the real-life setting for the
to Ghazaouet, Algeria. story that became Federico Garcia Lorca’s
Blood Wedding.
BUS
Destinations served from the clean, efficient CABO DE GATA
bus station (%950 26 20 98) include Granada Some of Spain’s most beautiful and least
(€10.95 to €13, 2¼ hours, 10 daily), Málaga crowded beaches are strung between grand
(€15.85, 3¼ hours, 10 daily), Murcia (€5.50, cliffs and capes east of Almería city, where
2½ hours, 10 daily), Madrid (€25, seven hours, dark volcanic hills tumble into a sparkling
five daily) and Valencia (€33 to €39.50, 8½ turquoise sea. Though Cabo de Gata is not
hours, five daily). undiscovered, it still has a wild, elemental feel
and, with a couple of exceptions in July and
TRAIN August, its scattered villages remain low-key.
Four daily trains run to Granada (€14.45, 2¼ You can walk along, or not far from, the coast
hours) and Seville (€34.80, 5½ hours); two run right round from Retamar in the northwest to
to Madrid (€40.80 to €54, 6¾ to 10 hours). Agua Amarga in the northeast (61km), but in
summer there’s little shade.
Getting Around It’s worth calling ahead for accommodation
The airport is 8km east of the city; the number over Easter and in July and August.
20 ‘Alquián’ bus (€0.90 runs from Calle Doctor The Parque Natural de Cabo de Gata-Níjar covers
Gregorio Marañón to the airport every 40 Cabo de Gata’s 60km coast plus a slice of hin-
lonelyplanet.com A L M E R Í A P R O V I N C E • • C a b o d e G a t a 829

terland. The park’s main information centre is but you really need binoculars to appreciate
the Centro de Interpretación Las Amoladeras (%950 the scene.
16 04 35; h10am-2pm & 5.30-9pm mid-Jul–mid-Sep, to There are a couple of decent options for
3pm Tue-Sun mid-Sep–mid-Jul), about 2.5km west accommodation: Hostal Las Dunas (%950 37 00 72;
of Ruescas. www.lasdunas.net; Calle Barrio Nuevo 58; s/d €36/51; p),
a friendly, family-run hotel with spotless
El Cabo de Gata Village modern rooms, huge bathrooms and crazy
Fronted by a long straight beach, this village balustraded balconies carved in marble and
(officially San Miguel de Cabo de Gata) is wreathed with flowers. For camping, try the
composed largely of holiday houses and apart- extremely well-run Camping Cabo de Gata (%950
ments (deserted out of season), but has an 16 04 43; site for adult/tent or caravan/car & electricity €17.28,
old nucleus, with a small fishing fleet, at the bungalow €71-112; ps), 1km from the beach;
southern end. The Oficina de Información (%950 it has all the necessary amenities including
38 00 04; Avenida Miramar 88; h10am-2.30pm & 5.30-9pm) a restaurant. It’s 2.5km north of the village
rents out bicycles (€5/14 per two hours/day) – by dirt roads.
a nice way to explore the area. Located right at the entrance to the vil-
South of the village stretch the Salinas de lage, El Naranjero (%950 37 01 11; Calle Iglesia 1;
Cabo de Gata, which are salt-extraction lagoons. mains €12-27; hclosed Sun), specialises in fish and
In spring many migrating greater flamingos seafood dishes.
and other birds call in here: by late August
Faro de Cabo de Gata & Around

ὈὈὈὈὈ
there can be 1000 flamingos here. There’s a
public viewing hide just off the road, 3km Beyond the Salinas de Cabo de Gata, a narrow
south of the village. road winds 4km round the cliffs to the Faro de
You should see a good variety of birds Cabo de Gata, the lighthouse at the promontory’s

ANDALUCÍA
from here any time except winter, when the tip. A turning by Café Bar El Faro, just before
salinas (salt-extraction lagoons) are drained, the lighthouse, leads to the Torre Vigía Vela Blanca,

ὈὈὈὈὈ
0 10 km
CABO DE GATA 0 6 miles

To Sorbas To Murcia To Mojácar (20km)

(22km) (158km) Carboneras
Venta del Pobre

A7 Playa de los
Níjar N341 Muertos

ὈὈὈὈὈ
Agua Faro de la
Amarga Mesa Roldán
Punta de la Media Naranja
Campohermoso
Cala de Enmedio
es

Cala del Plomo

al

San Isidro
or
eM

de Níjar Playa San Pedro

S E A

Fernán Pérez
ad
bl

Punta Javana
m
Ra

Parque Natural
de Cabo de Punta del Cerro Negro
ta

To Granada (176km);

ὄὄ
ὈὈὈὈὈ
Ga

Málaga (219km) Gata-Níjar Las Negras

A7 Hortichuelas Camping La Caleta
To Almería Playa del Playazo
de

(12km)
A N

AL12 Punta de la Polacra

Los Rodalquilar Lobos (265m)
Albaricoques
E

Retamar El Barranquete
bo

N
Ca

Ruescas Playa del Peñón Blanco

A

Centro de Interpretación La Isleta del Moro

R

ὈὈὈὈὈ
Las Amoladeras
l

R
de

Camping Cabo de Gata Los Escullos

Pujaire
E

El Pozo de El Fraile Parque Natural

Golfo de los Frailes (493m)
T

de Cabo de
Almería
I

Cerro de Gata-Níjar
El Cabo de Gata Punta de D
Salinas de Cabo Santa Cruz
Parque Natural de Gata (432m) Loma Pelada E
M
ra

de Cabo de Birdwatching Hide San José

Cala Higuera
er

Gata-Níjar
Si

La Almadraba Cerro de Playa de los Genoveses

de Monteleva la Testa Calas del Barronal
(343m)
Playa de Mónsul
Faro de Torre Vigía Vela Blanca Detour: Faro de Cabo
Cabo de Gata Punta de Gata to San José
Negra
 830 A L M E R Í A P R O V I N C E • • C a b o d e G a t a Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

an 18th-century watchtower atop 200m cliffs, 41; mains €15-25; pas) This smart but fun
with awesome views. Here the road ends but a ranch-style complex, popular with families,
walking and cycling track continues down to has a host of great facilities, on-site riding and
Playa de Mónsul (one hour on foot). an excellent restaurant.
Restaurante Mediterraneo (%950 38 00 93; Puerto
San José Deportivo de San José; mains €10-22) Last stop in a run
pop 550 of similarly good seafood restaurants near
San José, spreading round a bay on the eastern the marina, this one has particularly friendly
side of Cabo de Gata, is a mildly chic resort staff and a less frantic atmosphere than some
in summer, but it remains a small, pleasant, of its neighbours.
low-rise place and is a base for both watery
and land-bound activities. Out of season you San José to Las Negras
may have the place almost to yourself. The rugged coast northeast of San José allows
The road from the north becomes San José’s only two small settlements, the odd fort and a
main street, Avenida de San José, with the few beaches before the village of Las Negras,
beach and harbour a couple of blocks down to 17km away as the crow flies. The road spends
the left. On Avenida de San José you’ll find a most of its time ducking inland.
Natural Park information office (%950 38 02 99; Calle The hamlet of Los Escullos has a short beach.
Correo; h10am-2pm & 5-9.30pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun), a You can walk here from San José, along a track
bank and an ATM. The information office can starting at Cala Higuera bay. One kilometre
tell you about bicycle rental, horse riding, boat beyond Los Escullos, La Isleta del Moro is a tiny
trips and diving. village with a beach and a couple of fishing
boats. Casa Café de la Loma (%950 38 98 31; www
BEACHES .degata.com/laloma; s/d €35-57), on a small hill above
Some of the best beaches on Cabo de Gata lie
ANDALUCÍA

the village and five minutes from the beach, is a

along a dirt road southwest from San José. Playa 200-year-old house restored in Al-Andalus style
de los Genoveses, a broad strip of sand about 1km with airy rooms and terrific views. From here
long with shallow waters, is 4.5km away. Playa the road heads inland past the spooky former
de Mónsul, 2.5km further from town, is a shorter gold-mining village of Rodalquilar, worth a de-
length of grey sand, backed by huge lumps of tour. About 1km past Rodalquilar is the turning
volcanic rock. Away from the road, the coast to Playa del Playazo, a good beach between two
between these two beaches is strung with a se- headlands, 2km along a level track. From here
ries of isolated, sandy, cove beaches, the Calas del you can walk near the coast to the village of
Barronal, which can be reached only on foot. Las Negras, which is set on a pebbly beach and
largely given over to seasonal tourism.
SLEEPING & EATING On Las Negras’ main street, Hostal Arrecife
Camping Tau (%950 38 01 66; www.parquenaturale (%950 38 81 40; Calle Bahía 6, Las Negras; s/d €26/38) has
.com/tau; sites per adult/tent/car €4.75/6/4.50; hApr-Sep) cool, quiet, well-maintained rooms, some
Set 250m from the beach, the small but shady with sea views from their balconies. Camping
Tau is very popular with families. La Caleta (%950 52 52 37; www.vayacamping.net/la
Hostal Sol Bahía (%950 38 03 07, fax 950 38 03 06; caleta; sites per adult/tent/car €5.60/6.70/5.60; hyear-round;
Avenida de San José; d €40-70; a) The Sol Bahía and ps) lies in a separate cove 1km south of Las
its sister establishment, Hostal Bahía Plaza, Negras. It can be fiercely hot in summer, but
across the street, are in the centre of San José there is a good pool. Other accommodation
and have functional, clean rooms in bright, in Las Negras is mostly holiday apartments
modern buildings. and houses to let. Restaurante La Palma (%950
Sanctuario San Jośe (%902 87 73 88; www.elsan 38 80 42; mains €8-12), overlooking the beach,
tuariosanjose.es; Camino de Calahiguera 9; s/d €55/100; plays good music and serves excellent fish
mains €15-24; pa) This newly refurbished at good prices.
28-room hotel offers minimal yet friendly
design with attractive lounging and dining Las Negras to Agua Amarga
terraces. Its Anicette restaurant has a strong There’s no road along this secluded, cliff-lined
reputation locally. stretch of coast, but walkers can take an up-
Hotel Cortijo el Sotillo (%950 61 11 00; www.hotel and-down path of about 11km, giving access
sotillo.com; Carretera Entrada a San José s/n; s €100-20, d €117- to several beaches. Playa San Pedro, one hour
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels A L M E R Í A P R O V I N C E • • M o j á c a r 831

from Las Negras, is the site of a ruined hamlet From the 13th to 15th centuries, Mojácar
(with castle), inhabited erratically by hippies found itself on the Granada emirate’s east-
and naturists. It’s 1½ hours on from there to ern frontier, finally falling to the Catholic
Cala del Plomo beach, with another tiny village, Monarchs in 1488. Tucked away in an iso-
then 1½ hours further to Agua Amarga. lated corner of one of Spain’s most backward
Drivers must head inland from Las Negras regions, it was decaying and half-abandoned
through Hortichuelas. A mostly unsealed road by the mid-20th century, before its mayor
heads northeast, cross-country from the bus started luring artists and others with giveaway
shelter in Fernán Pérez. Keep to the main property offers.
track at all turnings, and after 10km you’ll
reach a sealed road running down from the Orientation & Information
N341 to Agua Amarga, a chic and expensive Pueblo and Playa are joined by a road that
but still low-key former fishing village on a heads uphill from the Parque Comercial
straight sandy beach. shopping centre, towards the northern end
Breezy, beachfront Hostal Restaurante La of Mojácar Playa.
Palmera (%950 13 82 08; Calle Aguada s/n; d low/high sea- The very helpful tourist office (%950 61
son €60/90; mains €10-18; a) has 10 bright rooms, 50 25; www.mojacar.es; Calle Glorieta 1; h10am-2pm
and its restaurant is Agua Amarga’s most & 5-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-1.30pm Sat) is just off
popular lunch spot. And although Hotel Family Mojácar Pueblo’s main square, Plaza Nueva.
(%950 13 80 14; www.sawdays.co.uk; Calle La Lomilla; d In the same building are the post office and
incl breakfast €85/120; hclosed 5 Nov-10 Dec; mains €17- Policía Local (%950 47 20 00). CiberKoko (%950 47
26, hclosed Tue & Wed; ps) appears to have 84 55; Multicentro, Plaza Nueva 9; per hour €1; h11.30am-
been furnished by a frugal maiden aunt, it is 2.30pm & 4.30pm-11.30pm) is a pleasant internet cafe
a cheerful place, set in mature gardens and with eight booths complete with functioning
just a short stroll from the beach. printer, and a friendly, helpful owner.

ANDALUCÍA
Chic, slick miKasa (%950 13 80 73; www.mikasa
suites.com; Carretera Carboneras s/n; d incl breakfast €120-240; Sights & Activities
pas) is an elegant, really comfortable, ro- Exploring the pueblo is mainly a matter of
mantic hideaway for the long-weekend crowd. wandering the winding streets, with their
Wi-fi in suites only. flower-decked balconies, and nosing into craft
Many miKasa guests will no doubt be eat- shops, galleries and boutiques. The Mirador El
ing at Restaurante Playa (%950 13 81 67; mains €8-23; Castillo, at the topmost point, provides magnif-
hclosed Jan & Feb). With its long terrace right on icent views. The fortress-style Iglesia de Santa
the beach and minimal yet friendly restaurant, María (Calle Iglesia) dates from 1560 and may have
this is the coolest dinner date in town. once been a mosque.
The most touching spot is the Fuente Mora
Getting There & Away (Moorish Fountain; Calle La Fuente) in the lower part
From Almería bus station buses run to El of the pueblo. Though remodelled in mod-
Cabo de Gata (€2, 30 minutes, 10 daily), San ern times, it maintains the medieval Islamic
José (€3.16, 1¼ hours, four daily Monday tradition of making art out of flowing water.
to Saturday), Las Negras (€4.25, 1¼ hours, For good windsurfing equipment (per hour
one daily Monday to Saturday) and Agua €12), canoeing, sailing and water-skiing (per
Amarga (€4.95, 1¼ hours, one daily Monday session €20) check out Samoa Surf (%666 442263;
to Friday). Playa de las Ventánicas) in Mojácar Playa.

MOJÁCAR Sleeping & Eating

Pop 6500 MOJÁCAR PUEBLO
Mojácar, northeast of Cabo de Gata, is actually Hostal Arco Plaza (%950 47 27 77; fax 950 47 27 17; Calle
two towns: the old Mojácar Pueblo, a jumble Aire Bajo 1, Plaza Nueva; s/d €36/52; a) Bang in the cen-
of white, cube-shaped houses on a hilltop 2km tre of the village, the Arco Plaza has rooms in
inland, and Mojácar Playa, a modern beach re- pretty pastel shades with spacious bathrooms
sort strip 7km long but only a few blocks wide. and crisp, white linen. Management and staff
Though dominated by tourism, the pueblo is seem incredibly friendly and efficient.
exceptionally pretty with its mazelike streets Pensión El Torreón (%950 47 52 59; Calle Jazmín 4;
and bougainvillea-swathed balconies. d without bathroom €60;i) This beautiful hostal,
 © Lonely Planet Publications
832 A L M E R Í A P R O V I N C E • • M o j á c a r lonelyplanet.com

with its five quaint rooms and stained-glass Tito’s (%950 61 50 30; www.elbeachbar.com; Playa
windows, is timeless. It was allegedly the de las Ventanicas; hApr-Oct) Weathered, warm-
birthplace of Walt Disney, whom locals main- hearted ex-Californian Tito creates the
tain was the love child of a village girl and a perfect laid-back atmosphere for this cane-
wealthy landowner. canopied beach bar. Very popular for both
El Mirador del Castillo (%950 47 30 22; www.el lunch and dinner. Live music on Saturday and
castillomojacar.com; Mirador El Castillo; d €60-68; is) Sunday evenings.
A laid-back hostal with a no-fuss bohemian
atmosphere and fantastic views. Drinking & Entertainment
Hostal Mamabel’s (%950 47 24 48; www.mamabels Classical music, live comedy acts and jazz
.com; Calle Embajadores 5; d/ste €70/90) This small hotel concerts are staged at the lively Café Bar
hugs the very edge of the pueblo, with rooms Mirador del Castillo (%950 47 30 22; h11am-11pm
seemingly piled on top of each other. All are or later) in Mojácar Pueblo. The pueblo’s bet-
individually styled, with amazing views. ter bars (open evenings only, from around
El Horno (mains €11-19) The restaurant at 8pm) include La Muralla, which boasts the
Hostal Mamabel’s offers dinner and good most romantic views from its terrace, and
breakfasts. slick chrome-and-wood Jazz Life Café in Calle
La Taberna (%647 724367; Plaza del Cano 1; tapas Embajadores. Tiny Time & Place (Plaza de las Flores)
& platos combinados from €4; v) This thriving lit- is as cute as a crooked smile, wreathed in
tle eatery, inside a warren of cavelike rooms, bougainvillea. Try the ‘Teeny Weeny Woo
serves extremely well-prepared meals with Woo’ of vodka, peach schnapps and cran-
plenty of tasty vegetarian options. berry juice, then lurch on to alcoholic jellies
Restaurante El Viento del Desierto (Plaza Frontón; and puddings.
mains from €7.50; hclosed Sun & Jan) Good value On weekend nights at the beach, imbibe to
long-established Moroccan-cum-Spanish the beat of live world music at Aku Aku (%950
ANDALUCÍA

eatery just by the church. 47 89 81; Playa del Cantal; hto 3am summer).
Restaurante El Palacio (%950 47 28 46; Plaza de
Caño; mains €9.75-19.75; hdinner) Decorated in more Getting There & Around
white fabric than a wedding and situated next Long-distance buses stop at the Parque
to the old Town Gate, this discreet restau- Comercial (Mojácar Playa) and the Fuente
rant breathes romance. Dishes include Caesar stop at the foot of Mojácar Pueblo. The tour-
salad and fresh salmon in prune sauce. ist office has timetables. Destinations include
Murcia (€10.17, 2½ hours, five daily), Almería
MOJÁCAR PLAYA (€6.41, 1¾ hours, two daily), Granada (€15,
Hotel Río Abajo (%950 47 89 28; Calle Río Abajo; d €60- four hours, two daily) and Madrid (€34.13,
70; ps) Budget option and looks like it. eight hours, two daily).
However, jolly chalets are dotted among lush A local bus service (€1.10) runs a cir-
gardens with direct access to the broad sandy cuit from the southern to northern ends
beach at the far north end of Mojácar Playa. of Mojácar Playa, then back to the Parque
A good place for kids. Comercial, up to the pueblo (Calle Glorieta),
Hotel Puntazo (%950 47 82 65; www.hotelpuntazo then back down to the Parque Comercial and
.com; Paseo del Mediterraneo, 257; s/d €116/144; as) the southern end of the Playa. It runs every
Sixty rooms, some with sea views, and a huge half-hour, 9am to 11.30pm, from April to
restaurant, cater especially well for families. An September, and every hour from 9.30am to
efficient if somewhat impersonal ambience. 7.30pm between October and March.

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’