MASMAKHANUM GAZIYEVA, SEVINJ ZEYNALOVA MASMAKHANUM GAZIYEVA, SEVINJ ZEYNALOVA

Welcome to
Azerbaijan Welcome to
Azerbaijan
 Georgia Russian Federation

Armenia

Caspian Sea

IRAN

Nakhchivan

**
Autonomous
RepuЫic
Central office Regional centers
Sub.<fistributor Г- Administra-e boundaries
 Azerbaijan University of Languages

WELCOME
TO AZERBAIJAN

Baku – 2018
 The book was approved and recommended for publication by the decision of the
Scientific Council of AUL on 08.05.2018 (min.№17)

EDITORS: Ian Peart

Journalist (UK)

Saadat Ibrahimova
Senior Teacher, ASUCA

REVIEWERS: A.I. Rustamov

PhD (History)

A.K. Hajiyeva
PhD (Linguistics), Associate Professor

Acknowledgments
Grateful acknowledgment is given all contributors: authors, publishers, editors,
reviewers, photographers, and agents for permission to print the following copyrighted
material. Every effort has been made to determine copyright owners.
All İnternet sites were correct and accurate at the time of printing.

Masmakhanum Gaziyeva, Sevinj Zeynalova.

WELCOME TO AZERBAIJAN.
– Baku, AUL, 2018, 100 p.

Copyright
No part of this publication may be reproduced, transmitted, in any form or any means,
electronic photocoping, recording, or otherwise without the prior permission of the author.

ISBN: 978-9952-28-416-4

© AUL, 2018
© M.Y. Gaziyeva, S.S. Zeynalova, 2018
Foreword

Welcome to Azerbaijan….

…. it is good to meet you at the Azerbaijan

University of Languages, which can trace its origins
back to 1937.
By its very nature the university seeks to
facilitate and develop sincere contacts between
the people of its homeland and those of other
countries and we are pleased to further this cause
with this book to serve as an appetiser for the
many wonders (culinary included) to be found in
this country. Truly a crossroads for major routes both North-South and East-West,
Azerbaijan has traditionally welcomed and benefitted from the many peoples and
cultures that have passed through or stayed to enjoy the genuine hospitality. This is
one of the secrets behind the triumph of multiculturalism in Azerbaijan.
Whether your interests tend towards the academic: Education, History,
Geography; to Political Economy; to Religion, Culture or Sport, Leisure and the
customary Way of Life, then we are sure there will be something here to whet your
appetite.
Small in area and population the country may be, but this simply makes it
easier to access an invariably friendly and generous people, ever willing to share an
amazingly varied environment and their equally inspiring culture.
And when you return to your homeland, perhaps our book will serve as a
reminder of a pleasurable experience of country and university. We look forward to
your return to Azerbaijan for further exploration!

Academician Kamal Abdulla,

Rector, Azerbaijan University of Languages

Welcome to Azerbaijan
Preface

To be sure, it is difficult to squeeze a quart of cultural experience into a pint-size

book. However, knowing that a visitor’s stay and reading time here are likely to be all too
brief, the book is deliberately concise, with edited highlights of the experiences on offer.
However long your stay in Azerbaijan, and whatever the purpose of your visit, the
book will help you point ever-open eyes and ears in interesting directions. Look and listen
for the stories in every street, building, page, picture and, most importantly, person.
The book begins with the basics of the state and country: the Geography of an
environment shaped by nine different climatic zones, the Caucasus mountain ranges and
the world’s largest lake opens the general theme of the tremendous variety to be found
within these borders.
There follows a fascinating History, developed by contact (sometimes in struggle)
and trade throughout the ages with some of the world’s largest empires.
That history took one of its sharpest turns in the last decade of the 20th century with
the collapse of the Soviet Union. A country known as the Land of Fire literally had to fight to
consolidate its regained independence – a phoenix-like rebirth in flames. Miraculously, out
of the chaos there rose a Political Structure that has ensured stability in a potentially
volatile neighbourhood.
This stability was achieved in part by the establishment of a growing Economy. A
strikingly bold and enterprising strategy for use of its resources of oil and natural gas
brought the country record levels of economic growth. This, in turn, has been used to
progress other sectors – trade, agriculture, tourism and trans-continental transport – into
significant contributors to national wealth.
The most important investment that any country can make for continued
development is in the next generation, i.e. into Education. As you will gather from contact
with the Azerbaijan University of Languages, there is an ever-increasing desire to work with
other countries for the mutual benefit of improved pedagogy and standards fit for a fast-
changing world.
Religion has, unfortunately attracted a bad press in recent years, but Azerbaijan is a
stand-out beacon of difference. Visitors to the country invariably have to shed
preconceptions and stereotypes when they encounter this predominantly Islamic culture.
They are surprised to find that, alongside the uplifting interiors of its mosques, there are
Orthodox churches, a Lutheran church, the Roman Catholic church blessed by the Pope, as
well as churches that reach back to the Caucasian Albanian Christianity of the 7th century
and earlier. The synagogues in Baku and the large Jewish settlement of Qirmizi Qesebe also
often come as a surprise to the casual visitor. “Tolerance” does not do justice here – these
communities are not “tolerated” – they are simply regarded as integral parts of the
Azerbaijani community.
The section on Culture and Art demanded indulgence in its size; one can only
squeeze so much a range of creativity that seriously astonishes. Stand in wonder before a
magical weave that was surely the inspiration for the legendary flying carpets of yore. The
music, from folk to classical, opera, jazz and pop has produced world class musicians; and
mugham and ashiq music are studies in themselves. Paintings and sculptures by artists old
and young have brought down the hammers in western auction houses – they belong to a
line of creativity at least 12,000 years old; its origins still on open display at Qobustan.

Welcome to Azerbaijan
Classical writers and poets have become legends - you will find both beauty and sharp
satire and buds from the post-Soviet generation promise a new blooming. The architecture,
whether medieval, 19th century oil boom, Soviet or ultra-modern, has been enough to
inspire at least one expat to make his life here.
It’s not necessary to visit during a national holiday (especially the springtime Novruz
Bayram) to witness Customs and Traditions in full flight, but they are certainly lively
occasions. If you are lucky enough to be invited into a home or to a family event, then you
will enjoy the best of these traditions and Way of Life, of which the dominant feature is
hospitality. Watch and listen wherever you go, even when relaxing with a traditional
armudu glass of tea.
Combat sports, volleyball and gymnastics have brought many medals to Azerbaijan
and Sport and Leisure are developing rapidly. If football is your sport, then Qarabag’s
recent European exploits have been a joy to watch. Try chovgan, a touch more exciting for
some than polo, its more sedate successor. Fitness clubs, running, cycling and
skateboarding are increasingly popular, and Baku’s Boulevard can be a hive of activity but is
still the focus of the ever popular evening stroll beside the Caspian Sea. Slightly more
challenging are walks (hikes) in the Caucasus Mountains; which also offer two excellent ski
resorts. International events abound: the European and Islamic Games, the annual Formula
1 Azerbaijan Grand Prix that races through Baku’s streets, the 2019 Europa League Final
and many gymnastic events are among tributes to the country’s status in the world of
sport.
In short, there is no shortage of sights, sounds or events to stimulate (or relax) the
appetite. Positive venture will be rewarded….

Welcome to Azerbaijan
 Azərbaycana xoş gəlmişsiniz!

Welcome to Azerbaijan! *

With eyes and ears open you are in for a wonderful adventure in a country that is
larger than either life or its boundaries can suggest.
Azerbaijan’s location has inevitably ensured a fascinating journey through history and
an invigorating blend of cultures that guarantee variety and surprise wherever you care to
look, listen…. or taste.

Yaxşı yol!
Bon voyage!

Where…. When…. What…. Who?

Still a mystery to many in the West, Azerbaijan is literally a crossroads of continents.

Most of it lies south of the Caucasus mountain range that separates Europe and Asia, but
the towns and villages in the mountains north of that line offer beach, pastoral and alpine
resorts, as well as crafts, culture and orchards fruitful enough to tempt all tastes.
The Asian lands expand on the agricultural theme from the northern orchards to
lush, sub-tropical tea and citrus plantations near the Iranian border. From semi-desert to
glorious mountain lakes in the Lesser Caucasus, the country claims up to nine different
climate zones; you may only imagine the variety of flora and fauna until you explore the
many reserves. And of course the Land of Fire offers you its mud volcanoes, hillsides
permanently aflame…. even spring water that burns.
The country only regained its independence in 1991 and visitors, especially from the
West, will note Azerbaijanis’ natural and particular pride in this independence and the
cultural traditions that are part of their independent identity. The newly-defined
neighbourhood is also intriguing: Russia to the north, Iran to the south, Georgia, Armenia
and Turkey to the west and the world’s largest lake – the Caspian Sea – on its eastern
shores.

*
Note that we have kept as close as possible to the Azerbaijani Latin script when transliterating
names into English. An exception is ‘Nagorno-Karabakh’ (Mountainous Qarabagh) – we use the
Russian form for the region occupied by Armenia, which is best known internationally because of the
ongoing conflict. We use ‘Qarabagh’ in non-political contexts.

Welcome to Azerbaijan
 Baku, the country’s capital and probably your first stop, is the perfect overture to the
musical theatre of any stay in the country. Your first sight will take in architecture from the
medieval, walled inner city to the ultra modern and set the tone for a joyous journey
through the traditional and contemporary, rural and industrial, the hustle and homeliness
of life in Azerbaijan. And go just 60kms south to wonder at thousands of Stone Age rock
engravings illustrating the lives of the region’s earliest inhabitants.
Ears will soon tune to ballads from the ashiq bards; the sacred yearnings of mugham
masters; the East’s first operas, both tragic and comic; international laureate jazz musicians;
Eurovision-winning popsters or underground rock, rap and electro.
Taste buds will delight in fresh, free-range meals accompanied by whole herbs and
salads, warm clay-oven bread, followed by luxurious desserts and/or fruit that is picked and
served with the full taste of the season.
Minds will marvel at the stories, history, culture and development of a country that
has seen Roman legions, Persian Zoroastrians, Christian missionaries, Jewish settlers,
Islamic Arabs, the Mongol hordes of Genghis Khan and Timur (Tamerlane), Turkic settlers,
Ottoman armies, Russian and British governors and Soviet commissars.
And who are these Azerbaijanis? Well possibly a mix of all the above. However, two
main sources are generally accepted as being the roots of the main body of the population.
The first mention of the indigenous Caucasian Albanians (no relation to the ‘other’ Albania)
found so far was by the Greek historian Arrian. He mentioned them as part of the forces
lined up against Alexander the Great at the 331BC battle of Gaugamela. Albania lasted until
invasions by Turkic Khazars and the Arabs who brought Islam in the 8th century AD.
The influx of Oghuz tribes from the east in the 10th and 11th centuries was decisive in
bringing Turkic language and culture to what is now Azerbaijan. The epic Book of Dede
Qorqud (Korkut) with tales from those times is a treasured part of the literary heritage.
The present-day population includes other ethnicities. Some villages in the Caucasus
have their own language; there are Udins who trace their descent and language back to
Caucasian Albania and Quba city is home to a major settlement of Mountain Jews. In the
south there are the Talysh, among many others.
Small in size, but not so in adventure, variety, culture and hospitality! So let’s get into
detail….

Welcome to Azerbaijan
THE REPUBLIC OF AZERBAIJAN

The Land of Fire

Why so called? Well, beginning with the obvious, the land (and sea offshore) has
been yielding hydrocarbons, whether as oil, gas or flame, from time immemorial. And it has
been put to many uses. Fire temples were built as centres of Zoroastrian worship, the 13th
century traveller Marco Polo heard that it eased camels afflicted with scab and the gas is
destined to help keep more European home fires burning.
More speculative are theories giving the country’s name incendiary origins. Thus an
early name for these lands was Aturpatakan – Persian for “a place where sacred fire is
preserved”. Or there’s Azar (fire) Payegan (protector), again from Persian. On the other
hand, some say another early name may be the true ancestor – Atropatene probably
stemmed from Atropates, who first commanded Caucasian Albanian troops in a losing
battle against Alexander the Great, but who later served the conqueror as governor of the
region.
Then there’s the legend that Zeus chained Prometheus to a rock in the Caucasus as
punishment for restoring the gift of fire to mere mortals – returning the tricky Titan to the
scene of his crime?

State symbols

The Flag The tricolour flag was first adopted by the

Azerbaijan Democratic Republic (ADR) on 9
November 1918, but was replaced following the
Soviet takeover of 28 April 1920. As the Soviet
regime teetered and the desire for renewed
independence intensified, the Supreme Majlis of
the Nakhchivan Autonomous Republic reclaimed
the flag in November 1990. Members of the
Supreme Soviet of the Azerbaijan SSR followed
suit on 5 February 1991, some eight months
before independence was finally restored. The flag
has three equal horizontal stripes. The upper
stripe is blue, representing the Turkic origin of the
Azerbaijani nation; the middle stripe is red, for the
modernisation of society and development of
democracy; and the lower stripe is green, for
membership of Islamic civilisation. The centre of
the flag, on both sides, has a white crescent and
eight-pointed star, representing the moon and the
sun in Turkic lore

Welcome to Azerbaijan
 National Emblem The national emblem of the Republic of Azerbaijan
was formally adopted on 19 January 1993. The
design is an adapted version of one first proposed
for the Azerbaijan Democratic Republic but
fustrated by the Soviet takeover in 1920.
The emblem symbolizes the independence of
Azerbaijan with an oriental shield resting on oak
branches and ears of wheat for antiquity and
fertility. The shield has an image of flames, that
may also be read as Allah in Arabic script, at the
centre of an eight-pointed star against a
background of the colours of the national flag.
National Anthem Also composed for a competition organised by the
Azerbaijan Democratic Republic and thwarted by
the Soviet takeover, the "March of Azerbaijan" by
celebrated composer Uzeyir Hajibeyov and poet
Ahmad Javad was finally approved as the national
anthem on 27 May 1992.
Composer: Uzeyir Hajibeyov
Text: Ahmad Javad
Azərbaycan! Azərbaycan! Azerbaijan! Azerbaijan!
Ey qəhrəman övladın şanlı Vətəni! O glorious homeland of heroic youth!
Səndən ötrü can verməyə cümlə All of us are ready to give our lives up for you!
hazırız! All of us are ready to let our blood run for you!
Səndən ötrü qan tökməyə cümlə Live happily under your tricolour flag!
qadiriz! Live happily under your tricolour flag!
Üçrəngli bayrağınla məsud yaşa!
Üçrəngli bayrağınla məsud yaşa! Thousands have sacrificed themselves,
Your bosom was a battlefield!
Minlərlə can qurban oldu, Soldiers who gave up their own lives!
Sinən hərbə meydan oldu! Every one of them a hero!
Hüququndan keçən əsgər! You’ll be a garden in bloom,
Hərə bir qəhrəman oldu! Every moment’s sacrifice!
Sən olasan gülüstan, A thousand-fold affections
Sənə hər an can qurban! Are held in my heart for you!
Sənə min bir məhəbbət
Sinəmdə tutmuş məkan! For the defence of your honour,
For the raising of your banner,
Namusunu hifz etməyə, For the defence of your honour,
Bayrağını yüksəltməyə, All the young are yearning now!
Namusunu hifz etməyə, Glorious land! Glorious land!
Cümlə gənclər müştaqdır! Azerbaijan! Azerbaijan!
Şanlı Vətən! Şanlı Vətən! Azerbaijan! Azerbaijan!
Azərbaycan! Azərbaycan!
Azərbaycan! Azərbaycan!

The Rebublic of Azerbaijan

 Population*
The population of Azerbaijan was
estimated to be over 9.8 million at the beginning
of 2018 (including the half million or so people
who live in the Nakhchivan Autonomous
Republic); it is the largest and most populous of
the South Caucasus nations. The urban-rural split
is approximately 50:50, and more than two
million people live in the capital city Baku, which
is by far the country’s largest city. Ganja, population

Azerbaijan’s second largest urban centre, has a

10 066 – 20 000
population of about 330,000. 20 001 – 30 000
30 001 – 40 000
The country’s population levels have risen 40 001 – 50 000

steadily over the last half century, from under 50 001 – 60 000
60 001 – 70 000

four million in 1960. 70 001 – 100 000

> 100 000

Ethnic make-up*
Azerbaijan’s geographical position and its people’s cosmopolitan traditions have
attracted various ethnic groups. Most of them being ancient Caucasian peoples. From the
ethnic, physiological and cultural point of view they are kindred to the Azerbaijanis. From
1828 Armenians and, in the mid-19th century, Russians were resettled to territories in
Azerbaijan. Ethnically, the majority of the population, around 91.6%, are Azerbaijani. The
other main groups are listed here:

Ethnicity Population
Azerbaijani 8172.8
Lezghin 180.3
Russian 120.3
Armenian 119.3
Talysh 112.0
Avar 49.8
Ahiska Turkish 38.0
Tatar 25.9
Tat 25.2
Ukrainian 21.5
Tzakhur 12.3
Georgian 9.9
Kurdish 9.1
Jewish 6.1
Qriz 4.4
Udin 3.8
Khinaliqi 2.2
Others 9.5

*
Azərbaycan Respublikasının Dövlət Statistika Komitəsi – State Statistical Committee of the Republic
of Azerbaijan. AZƏRBAYCANIN DEMOQRAFİK GÖSTƏRİCİLƏRİ – DEMOGRAPHIC INDICATORS
OF AZERBAIJAN. Rəsmi nəşr – Official publication. Statistik məcmuə – Statistical yearbook. Bakı –
2018 – Baku/

Welcome to Azerbaijan
 Languages history. From the 8th to the 19th centuries
Many of the ethnic groups have their writing was in the Arabic script, until a Latin
own language, which is sometimes script was advocated in the mid 19th century
restricted to the inhabitants of a single by people including playwright Mirza Fatali
village (Khinaliq, Qriz), but most of the Akhundov. Under the Russian Empire,
population speak Azerbaijani or, especially Cyrillic was also used and the Molla
in the cities, Russian, and increasing Nasreddin magazine (see p.69) sometimes
numbers, again mainly in the cities, speak had all three scripts on its cover.
English to some level. In 1923 the Latin alphabet was
The Azerbaijani language is a Turkic adopted by the Soviet authorities, and
language recognisable, but with significant Arabic was banned in 1929. This was
differences in vocabulary and spelling, by probably to discourage cross-border
natives of Turkey, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, communications with the Azerbaijanis in
Turkmenistan, Kyrgyzstan and Tatarstan. It northern Iran. In 1939, communications
has a modified Latin alphabet of 32 letters, with Turkey were suspect, so the order was
and is agglutinative – suffixes are added to to write in the Cyrillic script. Following
produce different grammatical forms. renewed independence, Azerbaijan
Changes of alphabet over the last 150 adopted a modified version of the first Latin
years still have consequences today, as well script and took measures to replace Cyrillic
as presenting challenges for research into in public signage etc.

THE AZERBAIJAN ALPHABET

Pronunciation (some are approximate,

not in English)
C = ‘J’ (jam)
Ç = ‘Ch’ (chop)
Ə = halfway between ‘bed’ and ‘bay’
G = softer than in English
Ğ = soft ‘gargle’ at the back of the
throat,
X = as in Scottish ‘loch’
I,ı = (undotted i) sounds like ‘uh’
Q = ‘G’ (got)
Ö = ‘word’
Ş = ‘Sh’ (shirt)
Ü = ‘Feudal’ (approximately like the u:
sound in fju:dəl)

The Rebublic of Azerbaijan

 Currency
Azerbaijan’s currency is the manat, or ’new manat’, which is represented by the
symbol , but it is commonly abbreviated to AZN. One manat is divided into 100 gapiks.
The front of each note features a significant image from Azerbaijani culture (such as musical
instruments on the AZN1 note or a map of Baku’s old city on the AZN10 note), while the
reverse has a silhouette of the country’s outline. The coins represent 1, 3, 5, 10, 20 and 50
gapiks.
Note that an increasingly popular ‘currency’ within
the capital is a ‘BakiKART’, the only way to pay on the metro
system and on most local buses. The cards may be bought
and charged at machines in all metro stations and many bus
stops.
Baku has plenty of ATMs for Visa, Mastercard and
major debit cards; you’ll also find them in most regional
centres.

Welcome to Azerbaijan
Geography
 On the map – Centred on latitude Elevation – From 28 metres below
40o North and longitude 48o East, tucked in sea level (Baku) to 4,466 m (Mount
between the Greater Caucasus mountains Bazarduzu). Baku is the only capital city in
to the north, before the border with Russia, the world below sea level.
the Lesser Caucasus in the West, the Talysh
mountains near the southern border with Main Rivers
Iran and the Caspian Sea (the world’s – the Kur (Kura) rises in Turkey,
largest lake) to the East. passes through Tbilisi in Georgia (as the
The Greater Caucasus range Mtkvari) before flowing through Azerbaijan,
represents a geological division between including the Mingechevir reservoir, to the
Europe and Asia, thus while Baku teeters on Caspian Sea. Total length 1515 km.
that border, much of Azerbaijan is in Asia. – the Araz also rises in Turkey and
Area – 86,600 km2 (slightly bigger passes through Armenia (as the Arax) before
than the island of Ireland) forming the border between Nakhchivan,
then the rest of Azerbaijan, with Iran. It joins
the Kur at Sabirabad on its way to the Caspian
Sea. Total length 1072 km

Weather – With nine climate zones, it is difficult to give averages for the country.
Generally, away from the mountains winters are cold, but not freezing, and summers are
hot and sunny – humid in Baku; temperatures of 40oC are not unknown. Baku is also
known for its winds, especially in winter and spring. A few days of snow are possible in
the capital’s winter.
There is much more snow in the northern areas by the Greater Caucasus, hence
the ski resorts in Qabala and north of Quba. And there is more rain in the southern areas
around Lenkeran which, like the northern areas, are greener than the central semi-
desert. Winters in the Nakhchivan exclave are colder and summers hotter, possibly
ranging from -20oC to +40 oC.
Good times to visit for mild weather are May, late September and October.

Average Temperatures and Rainfall in Baku

o
Month Temperature Range ( C) Rainfall (mm)
January 2 – 6.5 21
February 2 – 6.3 20
March 4 – 9.8 21
April 9.5 – 16.5 18
May 15 – 22 18
June 20 – 27 8
July 22 – 30 2
August 22 – 29.5 6
September 19.5 – 25.5 15
October 13 – 19.5 25
November 9 – 13 30
December 5 – 9.5 25

Welcome to Azerbaijan
 Location
Azerbaijan is the Within its borders, forms a good part of the
largest of the three Azerbaijan has a surprisingly border with Iran before
republics in the South diverse geography. The joining the Kur late in its run
Caucasus region and shares Greater Caucasus mountain to the Caspian Sea.
borders with Russia to the range runs across the north Baku is the country’s
north, Iran to the south, an of the country, with its capital, with a population of
eastern Caspian Sea highest peak, Bazarduzu, over 2 million – nearly a
coastline that stretches for climbing to 4,466 m; the quarter of the nation’s total.
over 800 kilometres, and Lesser Caucasus range It lies on the Absheron
Georgia and Armenia to the (3,500 m) rises in the west; peninsula, a spit of land that
west. Also to the west an and the Talysh (2,500 m) juts out, beak-like, into the
Azerbaijani exclave, the mountains lie in the Caspian Sea. It is a major
Nakhchivan Autonomous subtropical south, close to regional centre of
Republic, has a very short the border with Iran. In commerce, port and
border with Turkey. In total between lie the central hydrocarbon production.
area, 86,600 km2, the plains, which are extensive, Other major cities include
country is about the size of flat and desert-like in Ganja and Sumgayit, while
Ireland or the US state of places. The agriculture numerous towns and
Maine and it stands at a there is irrigated by the Kur villages dot the plains and
crossroads between Europe river with waters from both mountains. Politically, the
and Asia; influences of the the Greater and Lesser country is divided into the
two continents are evident Caucasus. The Araz river Nakhchivan Autonomous
in both landscape and drains the southern side of Republic, 59 administrative
heritage. the Lesser Caucasus and districts and 11 cities.

Geography
 Climate
Given the geography, it’s no surprise that the climate is equally varied. The two
Caucasus ranges have alpine conditions – the green meadows in spring and early summer
offer a refreshing break from lowland heat for daytrippers and shepherds alike. The Lesser
Caucasus’s mountain lakes near Ganja are popular and the climate in the range’s heights in
Nagorno-Karabakh is held responsible for the number of fine singers from the region that
have embellished Azerbaijani musical culture. In winter two major resorts attract skiers and
après-skiers alike to the Greater Caucasus; photographers and hikers also take advantage of
the picturesque snowscapes.
The more temperate areas in the foothills of the Greater Caucasus are forested and
famed in the north-eastern area around Quba for their fertile fruit orchards; around Qabala
further west, nuts and vines are the favoured produce.
Moving further south and getting warmer, the explorer will encounter more
vineyards delivering the stock for rapidly improving wine production, Goychay’s
pomegranates and Ivanovka’s honey.
Eastwards, the beaches on and around the Absheron Peninsula (the ‘beak’ nosing
into the Caspian Sea) are popular summer holiday attractions. The many baghs (dachas)
there have gardens whose fruit trees and flowers are ample evidence of the area’s warmth
and fertility – although low rainfall encourages the digging of wells to tap the water table.
Note that the bagh is in many cases an escape from the hot humidity of summer in Baku.
Snow is an irregular feature of winters around the capital; temperatures rarely get much
below freezing, but the Khazri north wind whistles in frequently from the Caspian – and it
bites! The more welcome offshore Gilavar breezes in the summer support Baku’s
reputation as the city of winds.
The centre of the country is flat, hot and dry – semi-desert – and irrigated extensively
to support the agriculture – wheat,
cotton, Sabirabad’s water melons –
that is the staple industry there.
The Talysh mountains and
Lenkeran lowlands are damp (annual
precipitation around 1500 mm) and
subtropical, producing forested

landscapes and
conditions suitable for the planting of
fields of tea and rice, as well as citrus
orchards.
Nakhchivan is separated from the
main body of Azerbaijan and is
accessible from there only by air or by

Welcome to Azerbaijan
road transport through Iran. Apart from its historical, architectural, cultural and culinary
delights, it is well worth a visit for its dramatically photogenic rocky landscapes. Rich in
minerals and known for its spring waters (Badamli) and Duzdagh (salt mountain) therapy
centre tunnelled into the mountain, it too has landscapes ranging from semi-desert to the
fertile orchards of the south-east (Ordubad). The floating islands on Qanli Gol (blood lake)
at Batabat also attract summer visitors to the cooler surrounding mountain pastures.

Fauna
Over the centuries many travellers have remarked on the variety of animal life on
these lands. The first local records were drawn on the rocks at Qobustan when Stone Age
inhabitants depicted the beasts they encountered or hunted. There has always been
hunting (recorded in medieval miniatures, stories and poetry) and it continues, but
increased environmental awareness has led to greater protection, especially of species in
danger of extinction. Since independence a number of reserves have been established for
those whose pleasure is simply to view nature’s beauties.
Of the 350 or so species of birds, perhaps the most fascinating are the raptors circling
mountain skies, but the pheasants, snowcocks, herons and nightingales are also sought, as
are winter visitors like the flamingos at Gizil Agach and, more rarely, pelicans. The water
fowl on the country’s many lakes are popular targets for hunters.
Goats, deer, wolves, bears and boars roam hills and mountains while the population
of goitered gazelles is making an assisted comeback in plains reserves. The 23 species of
snake (five are poisonous) make it wise to tread carefully in some areas, especially at the tip
of the Absheron Peninsula, the site of a Soviet-era snake farm. Individual Caucasian
leopards have been spotted by camera traps in the Zengezur (Nakhchivan) and Hirkan
(Talysh mountains) National Parks.
Caspian seals inhabit that lake off the country’s eastern shore along with the caviar-
producing sturgeon and more than 90 other species of fish. Fishing is popular in the
onshore lakes and rivers too. While stocks suffered in the Soviet era due to over fishing and
pollution in the Caspian Sea and hydroelectric schemes inland, fish farms have worked to
replenish the populations of fish like the sturgeon, salmon, bream, sazan and others. There
have also been major projects to clean up historical oil industry waste.
Finally, mostly domesticated and for many the pride of Azerbaijan, is the Qarabagh
horse. Originally native to the region for which it is named, the main stud had to be
evacuated in 1993 from Aghdam as it came under fire from invading Armenian forces. A
dramatic overnight cross country ride quite possibly saved the breed from extinction. The
horse is valued for its endurance and speed, domestically and for sports like polo’s
forerunner chovgan and its gorgeous golden colour is surely also responsible for the
sentimental human response it provokes.

Flora
And of course the varied terrain and climate bring forth more than 4,000 species of
plant life. Industries thrive on the wheat, cotton, tea, rice and tobacco grown, and
Azerbaijanis will soon let you know where the best pomegranates, apples, figs,
persimmons, citrus, olives, grapes and melons are grown – not to mention Gadabey’s prized
potatoes. Ask, too, for stories about Ordubad lemons. There are few berries not put to
useful purpose: mulberries (tut) are just one of those used to flavour local vodka and the
popular cornelian cherry (zoğal) features in cordials (kompot) as well as spirits. Being rich in
vitamin C it is also added to tea in winter as a cold cure. The custom here is still to eat fruits

Geography
in season – staying in tune with nature and the land, as well as experiencing fulness of
taste.
Late spring is the time to enjoy the countryside in full flower, whether the more
delicate blooms in Alpine meadows or agricultural fields ablaze with poppies. The thick
forests in many areas display particularly impressive autumnal palettes. For connoisseurs of
the rare tree, a journey south to the Talysh mountains is necessary to see Dəmirağac –
Parrotia Persica – the Ironwood tree, with wood so dense that it doesn’t float in water.

National Parks country’s borders. 13 State Nature Reserves

Nine National Parks have been also protect wildlife and the environment,
established around the country, offering an while providing for scientific research and
excellent overview of the wide range of leisure. Some 20 State Game Reserves
environment flora and fauna within the service controlled hunting.

Absheron National Park

Altiagaj National Park
Hirkan National Park
Agh Gol National Park
Shirvan National Park
Zengezur National Park
Shahdag National Park
Goygol National Park
Samur-Yalama National Park

Tickets for entry to the National Parks can be obtained online at:
[https://e-xidmet.eco.gov.az/index.php?lang=en&sectionid=3]

Welcome to Azerbaijan
 Natural Resources
Azerbaijan is well-known for its hydrocarbons – at the opening of the 20th century it
was said to be supplying 50% of the world’s oil and is soon set to extend its supply of gas to
Europe. But the country has plenty of iron and other metals and minerals under its soil.
Indeed, even the oil that propels the traffic – and fuelled the Soviet Union’s gigantic
effort to combat Nazi forces in World War II – is not the only type to be found here; there is
oil to bathe in. Neft is Azerbaijani’s word for oil and a small town between the country’s
second city Ganja and Barda bears the name Naftalan; therein lies the clue. This is where
you head for an original bath of healing oil that may not be as aromatically appealing as
Cleopatra’s preferred soak, but it was the choice of many from across the Soviet Union.
Once again it is attracting increasing numbers of foreign visitors, as well as determined local
bathers, to try its properties.
The Lesser Caucasus is the source of many metal ores, with Dashkesan well-known
for its deposits of iron and neighbouring Zaglik for alunite (aluminium). Copper,
molybdenum, cobalt, gold and silver are among the other metals extracted from the region,
which also quarries marble and granite. There are plenty of other resources for use in
building: gravel, sand, limestone and brick clay abound in the Absheron area and
Nakhchivan has limestone and travertine.
The exclave also has deposits of copper, gold and molybdenum as well as (literally)
mountains of salt, popular mineral and thermal waters. There are many sources of such
waters in the rest of Azerbaijan, too, especially in the Greater Caucasus and Talysh
Mountains.

Caspian Sea
A sea, or a lake?
Whichever, it is the
world’s largest body of
inland water, filled by
some 130 rivers, of
which the Volga contri-
butes around 80% of
the inflow from the
north; Azerbaijan’s
main input is from the
Kur river. The water’s
only way out is up – by
evaporation. Thus,
mainly depending on
input, water levels
have risen and fallen
over the years,
sometimes to the
detriment of coastal
settlements. There are
legends of sunken
cities and now only the outline of Bayil Island, once a fortress in Baku Bay, peeks above the
water. Paradoxically, the Caspian Sea is currently around 28 metres below sea level.

Geography
 Constituting the country’s entire eastern land boundary, it is naturally of huge
geographical significance, but is much more than that to the five littoral states around it:
Russia, Kazakhstan, Turkmenistan and Iran, as well as Azerbaijan. The matter of its identity,
sea or lake, has still not been agreed by its neighbours, mainly because that definition
determines how it is divided politically between those states. And that is particularly crucial
given the huge hydrocarbon resources that lie beneath.
Azerbaijan’s management of those resources, mainly from the Azeri-Chirag-Guneshli
(oil) and Shah Deniz (gas) fields, has been the basis of its breathtaking recovery and growth
since reclaiming independence out of the collapse of the Soviet Union (see ‘Contract of the
Century’ p. 49).
The other ‘black gold’ to be harvested from the Caspian has historically been beluga
caviar from the sturgeon fish. This species is critically endangered due to historical
overfishing, but there are now efforts to restore stocks, with restrictions on catches and the
development of hatcheries. The Caspian seal has suffered from oil pollution, but post-
independence industry regulation and waste removal provides an improved environment.
Resort beaches on the north-eastern coast (Nabran), the north coast of the Absheron
Peninsula and the Shikhov area south of Baku contribute to the tourism industry by
attracting increasing numbers of tourists to relax by the tideless waters.
Transport links across the Caspian Sea received a boost in 2018 with the
development of the new Port of Baku at Alat, 65 km south of the capital. Linked to the 2017
launch of the Baku-Tbilisi-Kars railway and improved highways, the port is an important hub
in a contemporary version of the Great Silk Road, a trade route eventually connecting
Europe and China. Initially the new port connected via ro-ro vessels with the ports of Aktau
in Kazakhstan and Turkmenbashi in Turkmenistan.

Welcome to Azerbaijan
History
 Overview
The Caucasus Mountains form a geographical border between Europe and Asia, thus
Azerbaijan bestrides the two continents. Politically and economically, too, it has been a
bridge between East and West and has been crossed, conquered and visited by many
traders, empires, refugees and explorers in its history. The lasting effect is seen in its
population: predominantly Turkic Azerbaijanis, but also including multiple minorities
speaking multiple languages in a remarkably harmonious mix.
Under the Median and Persian (Achaemenid) Empires many of the indigenous people
in northern Azerbaijan, known as Caucasian Albanians, adopted Zoroastrianism. By the 4th
century Christianity was the state religion and remained so until the 7th century arrival of
Arabs with Islam.
Ethnically more significant were the Oghuz Turkic tribes; arriving from the east early
in the 11th century they displaced the Arabs, established the Seljuk Empire and in essence
Turkified the local population, who adopted their language and religion (Sunni Islam). 13th
century raids by Chingiz (Genghis) Khan’s Mongols and, in the 14th century, Tamerlane’s
armies were devastating in the short term, but through all this the local Shirvanshahs’ state
managed to retain some autonomy from the 9th-16th centuries.
The Safavid Shah Ismayil I (ruled 1501-24) was next to have a lasting effect on
Azerbaijani culture. Born in the Iranian Azerbaijani city of Ardebil he spoke Azerbaijani and
was an accomplished poet in the language, as well as in Persian. He imposed Shia Islam
throughout the empire he established in opposition to the Sunni Ottomans.
Following the demise of the Safavid dynasty in the 18th century and the brief but
devastating (for Azerbaijanis) rule of Nader Shah, these lands were divided between a
number of khans ruling feudal style over their own patch. Naturally there were many feuds
and alliances, but culture also flourished, especially in the Qarabagh khanate.
By the early 19th century, the Russian Empire was looking to expand its domains
southwards, challenging and overcoming Iran’s authority in the Caucasus region. The
resulting 1828 Treaty of Turkmenchay pushed Russian Empire borders south to the River
Araz, dividing the lands inhabited by Azerbaijanis; the cities of Tabriz, Ardebil, Urmia and
Zanjan remained within the Iranian Empire. A further effect of the treaty followed from
Russia’s insistence that its co-religionists should be allowed to migrate north of the Araz;
many thousands of Armenians moved into the Irevan and Qarabagh khanates in a
resettlement with tragic resonance to the present day.
With the collapse of the Russian Empire after more than 80 years of colonising the
Caucasus, the first unitary independent Azerbaijani state, the Azerbaijan Democratic
Republic, was established in 1918. The state
was invaded by Soviet forces in 1920 and
remained under Soviet rule until its collapse
in 1991, at which point Azerbaijan regained
its independence.

Prehistory
In 1968 part of a young female’s
jawbone, believed to be over 350,000 years
old was discovered in the Azykh cave in the
Fuzuli region and thought to be evidence of
one of the earliest proto-human habitations
in Eurasia. Unfortunately, as this is written, Entrance to Azykh cave

Welcome to Azerbaijan
the cave now lies in territory occupied by Armenia’s military and cannot be visited.
But a must-see for any visitor to the country are the fascinating drawings cut into
rocks in the Qobustan Reserve, 60km south of Baku, some dating back to the Late Stone
Age, that illustrate scenes of hunting, fishing, work and dancing.
Many Chalcolithic (Copper period, 6th – 4th millennium BC) settlements have also
been discovered in Azerbaijan, their carbon-dated artefacts are evidence of home building,
copper tool and arrowhead making, as well as non-irrigated agriculture.

Antiquity
Caucasian Albanians are believed to be the earliest inhabitants of the lands of
Azerbaijan. The South Caucasus, however, underwent several conquests: by the Medians
and then by the Persian Achaemenid king Cyrus around 550 BCE. Persian influence may
have been responsible for the Caucasian Albanians becoming known as fire worshippers,
possibly an indication of their adoption of Zoroastrianism. The Achaemenid Empire lasted
more than 200 years before meeting its end at the hands of Alexander the Great.
Following Alexander's death in 323 BCE, the Hellenistic Seleucid Empire took over in
the Caucasus, but it soon faced pressure from Rome and, most adversely, the Parthians,
another nomadic Iranian tribe from Central Asia. This did finally allow local Caucasian tribes
to establish an independent kingdom in the 1st century BCE, for the first time since the
Median invasion.
However, Albanian territories to the south were considerably reduced in the 2nd or
1st century BCE during fighting with Armenia, which conquered the territories of Qarabagh
and Utik populated by the Utians, Gargarians and Caspians among other Albanian tribes.
The border between Albania and Armenia then was along the Kur river.
[http://www.visions.az/en/news/93/961d50c8/]
Fighting with the Parthians brought Roman legions under Pompey to the region. Even
with peace established, the Romans had legions here, as witnessed by graffiti cut into a
rock at Qobustan by Lucius Julius Maximus of the 12th Fulminata Legion during the reign of
Emperor Domitian (81-96 AD). The graffiti is still to be seen on the approach to the
Qobustan reserve.

With the fall of the Parthian (Arsacid) Empire, Persian Sassanids ruled the region until
the Arab invasion of 642, although Albanian kings retained a level of independence within
the empire.

History
 Christianity was the state religion
Thor Heyerdahl in Baku .Norwegian
by the 4th century, Albanian king Urnayr Archeologist Identifies .Azerbaijan as Early
was said to have been baptised by Cradle of Civilization. by Betty Blair //https:
Gregory the llluminator in about 314, but //www.azer.com/aiweb/categories/magazine/
medieval historian Movses Dasxuranci 73_folder/73_articles/73_thorheyerdahl.html
(aka Movses Kaghankatvatsi) told a story
that the religion first arrived in Albania in
the 1st century via St. Eliseus (Elisha) who
built a church in what may have been Kish, near
…. but the holy patriarch came to Sheki – an Albanian Church still stands there.
Gis he founded a church there and However, Christianity was slow to spread in
offered up bloodless sacrifices. This Albania and large numbers of Albanians
place was the original source of all remained Zoroastrian until the Arab conquest in
the churches and cities and the 642 brought Islam to the state.
conversion of us easterners.
[The History of the Caucasian Middle Ages
Albanians by Movses Dasxuranci, The Arab invaders made Caucasian
translated by C.J.F. Dowsett] Albania a vassal state once resistance led by
Prince Javanshir surrendered in 667. Resistance
continued in some parts, most notably from folk
hero Babek, as the Abbasid Caliphate went into
decline, a number of dynasties came, controlled
and went in these lands, by far the longest
th th
lasting being the Shirvanshahs’ (9 -16 centuries). Shirvan lands were bounded by the
Caspian and extended approximately north-east from the course of the Kur river between
Sheki and the coast to the Samur river in the north. However, the early 11th century saw
Oghuz Turkic tribes migrating in from Central
Asia. The most significant were probably the
A collection of chivalric stories probably Seljuks, a western branch of the Oghuz who
th
written in the 14 century but clearly conquered all of Iran and the Caucasus and
based on tales handed down from had their own cultural traditions, eg. The
much earlier times. (See p. 67)
Book of Dede Qorqud (Korkut). The 12th and
th centuries were a period of
early 13
blossoming culture in the region, producing There is a story that the valley
classical literature, as well as architecture. overlooked by the Girve restaurant in
Vandam village (on the road to
The arrival of Mongol hordes in the 1230s
Qabala) was the site of a battle
literally ground the classical golden age to dust;
overseen from the same site by Timur.
Ganja, the home of poets, and other major cities True or not, it’s a fine view.
were destroyed. The Mongols held sway until
the 1350s.
In the 1380s a further devastating force
arrived from the East, the legendary Emir Timur
(Tamerlane) added Azerbaijan to an empire that spanned much of Eurasia. Relatively short-
lived, Timurid dominion was also a period of religious unrest, including by the Hurufist Sufi
movement.

Welcome to Azerbaijan
 Hurufist Sufi movement - Founded by Fazlullah Astarabadi
(Naimi) who was executed for his heresy at Alinja in
Nakhchivan - his tomb stands at the head of another
beautiful valley. Hurufism’s most celebrated adherent was
Nesimi (1369-1417), possibly from Shamakhi, whose fine
philosophical poetry is his lasting legacy. For his heresy
Nesimi was skinned alive in Aleppo. (See p. 68)

Equally brief, but far-reaching, were

two 15th century Oghuz Turkic states that There was diplomatic activity between
ruled south of the Kur river. The Qara the Agh Goyunlu and Venice and Uzun
Goyunlu (Black Sheep) conquered the south married Despina Khatun, daughter of
of Azerbaijan in 1410 and established their Emperor John IV Trebizond; all this to
capital at Tabriz extending their territory into counter the threat of rising Ottoman
central Iran and as far east as Khurasan. power (Mehmet the Conqueror). Their
daughter Halima married Sheikh
However, they were in continual conflict with
Haydar (killed by the Shirvanshah and
the Agh Goyunlu (White Sheep) under Uzun the Agh Goyunlu!) and their son was
Hasan, who eventually prevailed in 1468 and Shah Ismayil I.
ruled all of Iran, Azerbaijan and Iraq until his
death in 1478.
Meanwhile, the Shirvanshahs enjoyed a relatively peaceful early 15th century, except
for a major earthquake in Shamakhi which persuaded them to move their capital to Baku.
Shirvanshahs Khalilullah l and Farrukh Yassar built the Shirvanshah Palace complex there.

History
 The Safavids
But winds of change were blowing. A Sufi order based in Ardebil (in Iranian
Azerbaijan) and known as the Safavids had embraced Shia Islam and was a growing force.
Advancing into Shirvan in 1460, however, their
leader Shaykh Junayd was killed in a skirmish with
Their followers were known as the Shivanshahs in the Caucasus.
Qizilbash (Redheads) for their crimson
Junayd’s son Shaykh Haydar picked up the
headwear in twelve sections (for the
Twelve Imams).
mantle and eventually found himself up against
both the Shirvanshahs and their overlords, the
Agh Goyunlu. He was defeated and killed in a
battle in the North Caucasus in 1488. The Agh Goyunlu also
accounted for Haydar’s son Ali Mirza Safavi six years later,
leaving just his seven-year-old brother to carry Safavid hopes.
Unsurprisingly, the boy Ismayil went into hiding. He
reappeared in Azerbaijan in 1499, aged 12, summoned around
7,000 troops to assemble in Erzincan, marched almost to
Shamakhi and defeated and killed Shirvanshah Farrukh Yassar,
avenging the deaths of his father and grandfather. Moving
south the Safavid forces met and defeated the Agh Goyunlu
army, even though outnumbered four to one according to
sources. They then took Tabriz and in July 1501 Ismayil, now
aged 14, was enthroned as Shah of Azerbaijan. It took him
another nine years to become Shah of Iran, but he had founded Shah Ismayil
a dynasty that would rule for more than 200 years, despite 1487-1524
continual competition from and fighting with the burgeoning
Ottoman Empire.

Late 18th – early 19th centuries

By the early 18th century, the Safavids had moved their capital south to Isfahan and
internal intrigues left the northern territories vulnerable. Peter the Great’s Russia took control
of the Caspian Sea coastline and the Ottomans made incursions into the Caucasus lands from
the west. The Safavid Empire was also threatened by Afghan chieftains, who made huge
inroads until repulsed by Nadir, a military leader from the Afshar tribe. In brief Nadir went on
to drive the Ottomans out of the Caucasus and also persuaded the Russians to leave. He then
had himself proclaimed shah in 1736, replacing the juvenile Safavid Abbas III.

Welcome to Azerbaijan
 The khanates
A brilliant but ruthless general, Nadir Shah was not wholly popular and was
assassinated in 1747; the empire fell into chaos. In Azerbaijan the khanates, while
nominally vassals of Iran, acted with a great deal of independence. They fought constantly
between themselves for supremacy in the region and with their nominal overlords from
Iran. The most celebrated were Fatali Khan of Quba (died 1783), Panah Ali Khan of
Qarabagh and Haji Chelebi of Sheki.

Haji Chelebi Khan founded the Sheki khanate and Fatali Khan of Quba
challenged the might of Nadir Shah Afshar, ruler A further flowering of culture centred
of Iran. When the shah demanded his on Shusha in Qarabagh, particularly on
submission, Haji Chelebi replied, “Gelersen Molla Panah Vagif, vizier to Ibrahim
Gorursen” (come and see). The outraged Nadir Khalil Khan (Panah Ali Khan’s son and
Shah set out to attack the Sheki fortress, but successor) and realist poet. Also known
failed to take it. The ruins of ‘Gelersen Gorursen’ for his poetic dialogue with Molla Vali
fort can still be reached by a stiff climb to the Vidadi, a similarly down to earth poet
summit of a hill outside the city - the views are from Shamkir.
worth it!

In 1796, Shah Agha Muhammad Khan Qajar determined to reunite the empire and
raided Azerbaijan and Georgia. However, Russian interest in the region was reviving and the
khanates were caught between the two empires. By 1806 the Russians had control of most
of the khanates in the Caucasus, however fighting continued until 1813, with Russia
prevailing.

Signing the Turkmenchay Treaty

(10 February 1828)

History
 Qajar Iran was forced to sign the Treaty of Gulistan in 1813, acknowledging the loss
of territory to Russia. A further round of fighting ended in a crushing defeat for the Iranian
army and with the 1828 Treaty of Turkmenchay Iran yielded all its lands north of the Araz
river. This established the current borders of Azerbaijan and Iran and ended the rule of local
khans. The treaty also allowed, and the Russians encouraged, Christians south of the border
to move north. Thus many thousands of Armenians migrated, in particular to the lands of
the former Qarabagh and Irevan khanates. This displacement of populations was to have
disastrous consequences.

Russian rule and national identity

Following a further earthquake in 1859, political focus moved from Shamakhi to Baku
and development of the oil industry saw the city’s population increase from 13,000 in 1860
to almost 180,000 by 1900, with migration from the Russian Empire and Iran as well as
from rural areas of Azerbaijan. By the turn of the century, Baku was producing around half
the world’s oil.
This was also a period of expanding social and national awareness in the region as a
whole and many important Azerbaijani thinkers were active in the cultural development
centred on Tiflis (now Tbilisi) in Georgia, inevitably taking those ideas into discourse at home.
Mirza Fatali Akhundov (1812-78) promoted the Turkic language and alphabet reform
away from Arabic script and wrote six comedic plays in the early 1850s that commented
sharply on local mores and urged enlightenment. Although he had to wait until 1873 for the
first performance of one of his plays, he was hugely influential on following generations.
Hasan bey Zardabi (1837-1907) launched the first Azerbaijani language newspaper Akinchi
(Ploughman) in 1875, (after helping to arrange that first performance of Akhundov’s Vizier
of the Lenkeran Khan). The strand of social satire in Akhundov’s plays was taken up by other
playwrights and by Jalil Mammadguluzade who, in 1906, launched the popular magazine
Molla Nasreddin, again initially from Tiflis. Targets of the satire included reactionary clerics
and those who opposed the emancipation of women. Cultural advance was also supported
by oil industry philanthropists like Haji Zeynalabdin Taghiyev, who built theatres, schools
(including for girls) and funded newspapers.
Tensions between ethnicities in the early 20th century, rising nationalisms, harsh
working conditions, disparities in wealth and political crises exploded in 1905 as Armenians
sought to expand their territory and clashed with Azerbaijanis (referred to then as Tatars) in
bloody massacres. Politics advanced as the situation in Russia
developed and by 1911 there were Azerbaijani political parties
like Hummet (Social Democratic) and Musavat (whose
combination of pan-Turkism and Socialism took it to the
forefront of Azerbaijani nationalism). The situation following
the October revolution in Russia meant that deputies elected
to the Russian assembly from the South Caucasus (now the
states of Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan) were unable to
attend and they assembled in Tiflis in February 1918 and
formed the Seym (Parliament) of the Transcaucasus
Federation.
Meanwhile, Bolsheviks in Baku under the Armenian
Mammad Amin Rasulzade
Stepan Shaumian combined with the fiercely nationalist
1884-1955
Armenian Revolutionary Federation (Dasnaktsutyun) to put
down opposition to a Bolshevik takeover. This three-day

Welcome to Azerbaijan
action, known as the March Days, killed many thousands of Azerbaijanis and is one of the
events commemorated on 31 March each year.
In May the Transcaucasus Federation disintegrated in disagreements. The Georgians
left and declared independence. The Muslim members formed themselves into the
Azerbaijan National Council, led by Mammad Amin Rasulzade. On 28 May 1918, the
Council declared the independence of the Azerbaijan Democratic Republic; initially,
because of the situation in Baku, they were based in Ganja.

“Notably, point 4 of the National Charter read:

The Azerbaijani Democratic Republic guarantees to all its citizens within its borders full civil and
political rights, regardless of ethnic origin, religion, class, profession, or sex.”

Azerbaijan Democratic Republic

In Baku, the March Days had paved the way for the Shaumian-led ‘Baku Commune’
to take control. However, forces involved in World War I were about to intervene. By the
end of May, the Ottoman general Nuru Pasha was in Ganja to organise the ‘Army of Islam’
and march on Baku, both for its much valued oil and to support fellow Turkic Azerbaijanis.
By July the combined Ottoman and Azerbaijani force was on its way to Baku.
Rejecting Bolshevik objections, a combination of Dashnaks, Mensheviks and others invited a
small British force (the ‘Dunsterforce’) to Baku to help resist the approaching army. The
Bolsheviks resigned and were jailed; the ‘Centro-Caspian Dictatorship’ was formed in its
place, but only held out until 15 September when the British fled and Baku was under
Turkic control.

First meeting of the ADR Parliament

7 December 1918

History
 As World War I drew to a close, the defeated forces of the Ottoman Empire had to
leave the Caucasus and were replaced by a British occupational force until mid 1919. The
Azerbaijan National Council reconvened in Baku on 16 November and decided on plans for
a Milli Majlis (Parliament), which duly convened on 7 December 1918, with some 11
political factions among the possible 120 deputies, the Musavat party being by far the
largest with 40 seats. In its short life of almost two years the Azerbaijan Democratic
Republic (ADR) struggled for maintenance of its independence in the midst of the Russian
civil war, for international recognition and with its neighbours for recognition of its borders.
But it also had time to establish a secular democratic structure, including suffrage for
women, some years before many western countries, and the Baku State University, the first
of its kind in Azerbaijan.
The struggle for international recognition was led by Alimardan Bey Topchubashov,
who headed a delegation to the post-war Paris Peace Conference. In January 1920 the
Supreme Council of Allied Powers gave de facto recognition of the ADR’s independence.
The uncertainty over Russia’s future in the middle of the civil war made the Allies nervous
of definitive moves in the region.
As it turned out, the ADR had only four months to live. The 11th Red Army invaded on
the night of 27-28 April 1920 and effectively installed a sympathetic local leadership. For
various political considerations, Azerbaijan’s total incorporation was staged over two years;
the establishment of the USSR on 30 December 1922 was the final stage in the loss of
independence. In this process the borders between Azerbaijan and Armenia were redrawn
a number of times, storing up trouble for the future.

Soviet Azerbaijan

Armenian claims on Azerbaijani territory were a feature of the early Soviet period.
The Zengezur region became the Armenian SSR region of Sunik, which meant that
Nakhchivan was separated from the rest of Azerbaijan. Some parts of Nakhchivan were also
handed over, but Armenian demands for total control of the exclave were resisted by an
overwhelming referendum vote of the population in 1921 and a short border with Turkey
was achieved. Nakhchivan remained within Azerbaijani lands as an autonomous republic.
Armenia’s claims on Nagorno-Karabakh also resulted in the region being given autonomous
status and remaining within Azerbaijan, but the matter has not rested there.
Azerbaijan was not spared the terror of Stalin's purges in the 1930s. Many thousands
were killed, including Mammad Hasan Hajinski and Jamo bey Hajinski who had signed the
declaration of independence, but also notable cultural figures like writers Huseyn Javid,
Mikail Mushvig and Ahmad Javad. Many plaques on apartment walls commemorate those
who died in 1937-38.
The Azerbaijan SSR lost about 300,000 of its people to the fighting in World War II.
Hitler directed his forces towards Azerbaijan and its hydrocarbons that supplied much of
the Soviet Union's gas and oil during the war. There is even a contemporary video of Hitler
being served a slice of his Caspian-shaped birthday cake – his slice was marked ‘Baku’. His
army got as far as just north of the Greater Caucasus in July 1942 but no further, and there
are stories of his soldiers retreating on bicycles and horses, having run out of fuel for their
vehicles.

Welcome to Azerbaijan
 A plaque dedicated to the memory of Victims of Repression
in the Writers' Union of Azerbaijan. Sculptor E.Shamilov [ayb.az]

Heydar Aliyev
Post-war Moscow looked to more secure sources of fuel – Siberia among other
places – and by the 1960s Azerbaijan’s economy had declined significantly. Then, in 1969
Heydar Aliyev was appointed first secretary of the Central Committee of the Communist
Party of Azerbaijan – effectively leader of the republic. This turned out to be a very
significant elevation.
Born in 1923 in Nakhchivan, after his studies at the Industrial Institute were
interrupted by the war, Aliyev had been directed towards the security services and rose
through the ranks to become chairman of the State Security Committee before his
elevation to prime position in the local party.
His leadership was marked by strong personal control of the economy, with a drive
against corruption and promotion of productivity and diversification that produced
impressive growth compared with trends in the rest of the USSR. He worked to raise the
republic’s status and promoted local personnel, leading by example and demanding similar
levels of knowledge and responsibility from them.
His work on the republic’s profile included promotion of its culture: in 1982 he
organised the birth centenary return of the remains of Huseyn Javid, a celebrated
Azerbaijani poet who fell victim to Stalin’s purges and died in Siberian exile.
Aliyev’s work was recognised centrally and in the same year he joined the Politburo
in Moscow. He rose to the position of First Deputy Chairman of the USSR’s Council of
Ministers, unprecedented for someone of his origins.
Tensions rose in the Caucasus with resurfacing Armenian claims on the lands of the
Nagorno-Karabakh Autonomus Oblast of the Azerbaijan SSR, Heydar Aliyev was forced out
of office in 1987 by Mikhail Gorbachev, and the following year saw open conflict break out
as Azerbaijanis were forced out of Armenia and Nagorno-Karabakh. The inter-ethnic
tension also gave rise to disturbances in Baku, protests against local officials, and
demonstrations calling for independence.

History
 Gorbachev ordered Soviet army tanks into Baku on 20 January 1990 (Black January).
This action killed 131 unarmed civilians and wounded hundreds of others. From Moscow,
Heydar Aliyev demanded that the organisers and perpetrators be punished. He then
returned to his native land and in 1991 was elected Chairman of the Supreme Soviet of the
Nakhchivan Autonomous Republic.

Renewed Independence

Commemorated annually, the Black January suppression of local demonstrations was

a crucial event on the path towards the renewal of independence. As Armenia continued its
invasion of Azerbaijani territory and the Soviet Union crumbled, the question of national
survival became more urgent. In August 1991 a first declaration of independence was made
in the Supreme Soviet and on 18 October a constitutional act was passed to restore the
independence of the Azerbaijan Republic. Confirmation came with the final collapse of the
Soviet Union on 25 December 1991.

Ayaz Mutalibov (1991-92)

At first, while formal affiliations changed, government personnel remained the same.
Ayaz Mutalibov became the first president of Azerbaijan. However, as its forces failed to
halt Armenia’s military invasion of Nagorno-Karabakh and other regions, discontent forced
his resignation in March 1992. The Supreme Council was replaced by the National Assembly
(Milli Majlis) and an election in June 1992 made the Azerbaijan Popular Front candidate
Abulfaz Elchibey president.

Abulfaz Elchibey (1992-93)

Elchibey succeeded in getting Soviet troops out of Azerbaijan but he had the same
problems with the Nagorno-Karabakh invasion as his predecessor, with disorganised and
even rebellious factions among the defending forces failing to prevent Armenian advance
into seven further regions of Azerbaijan. In June 1993 he invited Heydar Aliyev to help
counter a mutiny as Speaker of the National Assembly. As Elchibey left for Nakhchivan,
Aliyev constitutionally assumed his powers and signed a ceasefire. In August a referendum
removed Elchibey from his post and a national election in October 1993 returned Heydar
Aliyev as the third president of independent Azerbaijan.

Heydar Aliyev (1993-2003)

As in his previous position of leadership, Heydar Aliyev
acted to determined effect. The ceasefire he signed achieved a
level of peace in the conflict over Nagorno-Karabakh that
allowed him to act to remove the mutineers. He also speedily
initiated economic reforms and in October 1994 achieved the
signing of the ‘Contract of the Century’ with a number of
international companies to ensure efficient exploitation of the
vast reserves of oil and gas. This was the baseline for the
dramatic turnaround in the country’s fortunes that followed,
taking it from a decrepit and polluted backwater in the
wreckage of the Soviet Union to a resurgent economy that
presents an altogether more confident image to the world.

Welcome to Azerbaijan
 Re-elected for a second term in 1998, Aliyev argued, against strong opposition, for
the construction of the Baku-Tbilisi-Ceyhan pipeline to take Azerbaijani oil from the Caspian
Sea to western markets – construction finally began in September 2002. In 1999 the huge
Shah Deniz gas field was discovered, leading to the building of the South Caucasus Gas
Pipeline.
Other features of Heydar Aliyev’s presidency included strong promotion of local
culture in-country (including public use of the Azerbaijani language rather than Russian) and
abroad, extending international diplomatic relations and energetic lobbying for the return
of the lands occupied by Armenia.
He fell ill in mid-2003 and after prolonged intensive care he died on 12 December
2003. Inheriting a state that was beset by the anarchy of war, mutiny, economic collapse
and environmental degradation, Heydar Aliyev had employed his political acumen and force
of personality to restore order and bring relative peace, bequeathing to his country a legacy
of stability and impressive economic and social advance.

Ilham Aliyev (2003- )

Ilham Aliyev was elected president in October 2003 and
re-elected in 2008, 2013 and 2018. His leadership built on the
foundations, especially economic, of his predecessor and the
country has undergone a rapid process of modernisation.
Economically his presidency has seen the completion of
the Baku-Tbilisi-Ceyhan oil pipeline and the Southern Gas
Pipeline to take gas from the giant Shah Deniz oilfield. The
Southern Gas Corridor was also implemented to take gas to
Europe via Georgia, Turkey, Greece, Albania and Italy. The
country experienced record growths in GDP over the decade
from 2004 and levels of poverty declined dramatically.
As part of government policy to diversify the economy,
the country is developing its communications sector. It
launched the Azerspace-1 satellite in 2013 and Azerspace-2 in 2018. The Baku-Tbilisi-Kars
railway project and new international Port of Baku were built to develop rail, road and sea
routes between East and West along the ancient Silk Road.
The North-South Transport Corridor saw road and rail infrastrucure developed in
Russia, Azerbaijan and Iran to connect Northern Europe with South-East Asia, as well as
Central Asia, via the Port of Baku.
An indication of Azerbaijan’s rising political profile was its election as a non-
permanent member of the United Nations Security Council for a two-year term
commencing 1 January 2012.
The drive to raise the country’s international standing continued with the holding of
a number of sporting and cultural events, including the Eurovision Song Contest in 2012;
the first European Games in 2015; the Formula 1 Grand Prix, annually from 2016, and the
Islamic Solidarity Games in 2017. The country will also host group games and a quarter-final
match for the 2020 UEFA European Football Championship. Regular international festivals
of classical, mugham and jazz music attract top musicians and large audiences. Also known
for the positive multiculturalism of its society, the country holds a number of conferences
to promote intercultural dialogue.
Despite intensive campaigns for international support to restore Azerbaijan’s
territorial integrity, Armenia remains in military occupation of Nagorno-Karabakh and all or

History
part of seven other Azerbaijani regions. This occupation and consequent displacement of
around one million IDPs and refugees – some 11% of the country’s population – remains
the main obstacle to full social, political and economic progress in the region.

The Armenia-Azerbaijan Conflict over Nagorno-Karabakh

There is a long history of Armenians seeking to expand the territories they control in
the Caucasus, especially since the population migration following the Turkmenchay Treaty
between the Russian and Iranian empires of 1828. The modern phase of their attempt to
take territory from the state of Azerbaijan dates back to 1988 with a unilateral declaration
of independence by the Armenians of Nagorno-Karabakh, prompted by declarations in
Armenia. By this time, after successive waves of migration Armenians numbered over
138,000 compared to over 47,000
Azerbaijanis. Nagorno-Karabakh had
no border with Armenia, all the regions
surrounding it were almost entirely
Azerbaijan-populated. On 1 December
1989, the Supreme Soviet of Armenia
adopted a resolution to unify Nagorno-
Karabakh with Armenia, effectively to
annex it. Fighting broke out and the
process began of expelling the 300,000
Azerbaijanis who lived in Armenia. By the time of a cease-fire in 1994, Armenia with
support from units of the Soviet army, had invaded and occupied Nagorno-Karabakh and all
or part of seven other regions of Azerbaijan: Lachin, Kalbajar, Aghdam, Fuzuli, Jabrayil,
Qubadli and Zangilan, amounting to approximately 15% of the country’s territory. The
fighting left 30,000 dead and one million Azerbaijanis robbed of all they possessed: land,
homes and property.
In 1993, the United Nations Security Council passed four resolutions (#822, #853,
#874, #884) reaffirming the territorial integrity of Azerbaijan, and demanding the
immediate withdrawal of occupying forces from Azerbaijani lands. The resolutions have
never been obeyed or enforced. In 1995 the Organisation for Security and Cooperation in
Europe (OSCE) appointed the ‘Minsk Group’ to mediate between Armenia and Azerbaijan
to seek a resolution of the conflict. The mediators are representatives from Russia, the USA
and France – the countries with the three largest populations of Armenians outside
Armenia. Their many meetings over the years since 1995 have so far produced no concrete
change in the status quo of military occupation by Armenia of ethnically-cleansed
Azerbaijani territory.

Khojaly, 26 February 1992

At its peak, the city of Khojaly had a population of 7,000 people, mainly Azerbaijanis.
Strategically situated in Nagorno-Karabakh, it stood by the region’s only airport. During the
war, the city was gradually surrounded and subject to an Armenian blockade until by late
1991 the only way in or out was by helicopter, until even that became too dangerous. By
February 1992 food supplies, gas and electricity had all been cut. People slept in their
cellars due to nightly bombardments.

Welcome to Azerbaijan
 At around 11pm on 25 February, the bombardment intensified and it was clear that
the Armenian forces were determined to take the city. The only option was to flee towards
Aghdam, which was still unoccupied. The townspeople broke the ice on the River Gargar,
waded across and walked on during the night through the snow-covered forest. They
emerged onto open ground near the village of Nakhchivanik as dawn broke on 26 February;
they were a perfect target for the guns that awaited them. Men, women, children, from
oldest to youngest were cut down. Some managed to survive and reach safety, but are
haunted by their memories:

We crossed the road and turned back to see a horrible sight. You
can’t imagine what it was like; it was as if the snow had a red cover
over it…. they killed us like cutting wheat in a field.
[Khojaly Witness Eds. Fiona Maclachlan, Ian Peart, Ithaca Press,
2014, pp.56-57]

An Armenian source described what happened after the shooting:

The Arabo fighters [an Armenian detachment] had then unsheathed the
knives they had carried on their hips for so long, and began stabbing.
[My Brother’s Road, Markar Melkonian, I.B. Tauris, 2008, pp.213-214]

Torture and rape awaited many of those captured and held hostage to be used as
bargain counters in future negotiations.
In total, 613 people were killed, among them 63 children,106 women and 70 elders.
487 people were wounded, 1275 people were taken hostage and there were 150 people
whose fates were unknown. Not only the worst atrocity of the war, it was a deliberate
targeting of civilians, which is a war crime. Serzh Sargsyan, president of Armenia until April
2018, who was a commander of forces during the fighting told writer Thomas de Waal:

Before Khojaly, the Azerbaijanis thought they were joking with us, they thought that
the Armenians were people who could not raise their hand against the civilian
population. We were able to break that [stereotype]. And that’s what happened.
[Black Garden: Armenia and Azerbaijan through Peace and War,
NYU Press, 2004, p.172]

History
 As with the UN resolutions and the OSCE Minsk Group, no concrete action has been
taken to end the occupation or prosecute war crimes.

Welcome to Azerbaijan
Political Structure
The Political System of the Republic ofAzerbaijan

The Constitution
The constitution of independent
Azerbaijan was adopted by referendum on
12 November 1995 and came into effect 15
days later, on 27 November. Azerbaijan’s
first period of independence, as the
Azerbaijan Democratic Republic, which
lasted only 23 months, from 1918 to 1920,
did not produce such a document. Thus the
history of the republic’s constitution begins
with its time as part of the USSR. The All-
Azerbaijan Soviet Congress adopted its first
constitution on 19 May 1921. Several
adjustments followed to ensure compliance
with the Soviet Union’s constitution. With
renewed independence a new constitution
had to be developed. To this end, a
commission was established under the
guidance of former president Heydar Aliyev,
a draft document was submitted to the
referendum and 12 November has been
celebrated as Constitution Day ever since.
Embodying human rights and the
by the independent courts whose judges
division of power as priorities, the
are appointed by the Milli Majlis following
constitution laid the basis for the republic’s
recommendations from the president.
future development as a democratic,
There are special provisions within
legally-governed, secular state. [For its
the constitution for Nakhchivan, which is an
wording see http://www.constcourt.gov.az
exclave of Azerbaijan, having no contiguous
/laws/26]
border with the rest of the republic. It is an
The division of power in Azerbaijan is
autonomous republic within Azerbaijan,
such that executive authority lies with the
having its own constitution approved by the
president of the republic, who is elected
Milli Majlis of Azerbaijan in December 1998,
directly by majority vote of the whole
and its own Ali Majlis (Supreme Assembly).
electorate for periods of seven years and
Subject to the constitution of Azerbaijan,
supported by his administration, the vice-
executive authority in the Nakhchivan
president, prime minister and the Cabinet
Autonomous Republic lies with its Cabinet
of Ministers. Legislative authority is with the
of Ministers, legislative authority is
single-chamber Milli Majlis (National
exercised by the Ali Majlis and judicial
Assembly), whose 125 deputies are elected
authority is with the courts. The chairman
for five-year terms by majority vote from
of the Ali Majlis is the republic’s highest
territorial districts. Judicial authority is held
official.

Welcome to Azerbaijan
 The President
The president is the head of state
and acts as the guarantor of the
independence and territorial integrity of
the state, thus he/she is Supreme
Commander-in-Chief of the Armed Forces
and appoints and dismisses the General
Staff. As the state’s representative in
external and internal affairs, the president
has the authority to:
 appoint and dismiss the prime
minister with Milli Majlis approval;
 appoint and dismiss diplomatic representatives;
 conclude international treaties;
 make recommendations to the Milli Majlis on the appointment of judges to the
courts;
 establish internal executive authorities;
 present legislative proposals to the Milli Majlis;
 present a state budget to the Milli Majlis for confirmation.
The president also establishes the Cabinet of Ministers to act as his/her principal
executive body. Included are the prime minister, deputy prime ministers, ministers and
heads of other central executive authorities.

Vice-President
By referendum on 26 September 2016, the constitution was amended to provide for
the presidential appointment or dismissal of persons to the post of vice-president. In the
case of the president resigning or being incapacitated, an extraordinary presidential
election will be held within 60 days. The first vice-president will assume the powers of the
president until a new president is elected.
On 21 February 2017, President Ilham Aliyev appointed First Lady Mehriban Aliyeva
to be first vice-president.

The Milli Majlis

Elections to Azerbaijan’s unicameral
legislative body take place every five years. The
125 deputies then elect chairs and vice-chairs,
set its programme and establish commissions to
discuss policies on the various social, political,
economic, regional and environmental issues as
well as forming the Chamber of Accounts, which
is the main body of state budgetary and
financial control, providing financial advice and
monitoring of budgets, legislation and state finances.
As well as approving legislation, the Milli Majlis approves the state budget,
appointments of the prime minister and judges, and authorises the Cabinet of Ministers.

Political Structure
 The Judiciary
The basis of the judiciary of the and acts by the Milli Majlis, state bodies
Azerbaijan Republic is formed by the and officials, as well as executive
Constitutional Court, the Supreme Court, authorities, are consistent with the
Courts of Appeal, specialist and courts of constitution. It also ensures the separation
first instance. All judges are appointed by of powers between the executive and
the Milli Majlis on recommendation by the judiciary. The Supreme Court rules on
president. criminal and other cases, while the
The nine members of the Economic Court tries cases involving
Constitutional Court ensure that laws, charges of economic wrongdoing.
presidential decrees and orders, resolutions

Foreign Policy
On 18 October 1991, inexperienced idealists, Azerbaijani foreign policy,
as the Soviet Union failed in the face of a which aims for
disintegrated, Azerbaijan mountain of problems. In independence and balance
declared its independence, 1993, the country returned in the national interest.
taking inspiration from its to the political experience While drawing international
first period – the Azerbaijan of Heydar Aliyev, who attention to the damage
Democratic Republic of exerted his strength and and dangers of Armenia’s
1918-20. Consolidating this acumen to turn the continued illegal occupation
renewed sovereignty was situation around, of its lands, Azerbaijan has
no easy process and the prioritising political stability continued to attract foreign
early years were troubled. and economic growth. investment in projects with
The principal threat Negotiating a ceasefire to international potential,
to independence was, and reduce the chaos of war, his seeking also to diversify its
remains, Armenia’s claims strategy on the economy own economy with a
on Azerbaijani territory concentrated on efficient number of projects in
which developed into the extraction of the wealth of transport infrastructure, IT
war over Nagorno- hydrocarbon resources and telecommunications,
Karabakh. It was also two under the Caspian Sea. The agriculture, sport, leisure,
years before the last of the ‘Contract of the Century’, tourism and other spheres,
Soviet armed forces left signed in September 1994, thus reducing dependence
Azerbaijan and Russia was was not only economically on oil and gas.
still making clear that it efficient, it was also In political terms,
regarded former Soviet politically astute. The these projects reflect the
republics as being within its international companies country’s aim to develop
sphere of influence. involved were from the UK, productive relations with
The economy, once the USA, Russia, Norway, states and organisations
part of a highly centralised Turkey and Saudi Arabia; both West and East: the
infrastructure was, with the this created a spread of USA, the EU, NATO, Turkey
removal of ‘the centre’, in a influential nations with a and Russia, the CIS and Iran.
state of disorganised profitable stake in While maintaining its policy
collapse. Azerbaijan’s development. of independence and
Early governments, That early balanced international
the first hidebound by combination of economic relations with respect to
Soviet ideology, its and political interests is an international law,
successor led by weak and ongoing feature of Azerbaijan also acts in due

Welcome to Azerbaijan
recognition of the peace and stability to its own resources and
sensitivities of the region. It conflict. However, it is also projects. It has been in
undertakes a number of mindful of the interests of active membership of, or
mutually beneficial projects international powers and, cooperation with, many
with neighbouring principally, of the need to international organisations
countries, preferring defend its own sovereignty and operations, as follows.
constructive cooperation, and to protect and develop

Azerbaijan and the United Nations (UN)

The newly-independent Republic of Azerbaijan was
admitted to the UN on 2 March 1992 and opened its
permanent representation there on 6 May 1992.
Of course the country’s priority has been to raise
awareness and seek support for a just resolution of the
Armenia-Azerbaijan conflict over Nagorno-Karabakh and
resolutions #822, #853, #874 and #884 were adopted by
the UN Security Council in 1993. They all confirmed Azerbaijan’s territorial integrity and
demanded the immediate withdrawal of occupying military forces from that territory.
Those resolutions unfortunately remain unimplemented. In the same year the UN General
Assembly recognised the plight of the more than one million refugees and IDPs and with
resolution A/RES/48/114 appealed to its members to provide emergency assistance.
Active within many of the structures of the UN, Azerbaijan has, for example, been
represented on the Executive Board of UNESCO and Vice-President Mehriban Aliyeva is one
of its Goodwill Ambassadors. The country was also elected to non-permanent membership
of the UN Security Council for the years 2012 and 2013. During its two stints of presidency,
Azerbaijan convened a session on strengthening international cooperation against
terrorism and the first session focusing on UN cooperation with the Organisation of Islamic
Cooperation to foster inter-cultural ties in the quest for peace and security.

Azerbaijan and the Organisation for Security

and Co-operation in Europe (OSCE)
The OSCE is a group of 57 northern hemisphere
countries that, despite the name, extends across North
America, Europe and Asia. It is the world’s largest regional
security organization….and…. works for stability, peace
and democracy…. through political dialogue about shared
values. [https://www.osce.org/who-we-are]
Azerbaijan joined its predecessor, the
C(Conference)SCE, in January 1992 and this organisation
took on the task of resolving the conflict over Nagorno-
Karabakh.
On 24 March 1992, the CSCE Council of Foreign Ministers requested the Chairman-in-
Office to convene as soon as possible a conference on the Nagorno-Karabakh conflict
involving Armenia and Azerbaijan. This event was to take place in Minsk and provide a
forum for negotiations towards a peaceful settlement. Two and a half years later, in
December 1994, the OSCE Budapest Summit directed the Chairman-in-Office to name co-

Political Structure
chairmen of the Minsk Group and establish their mandate to create the conditions for such
a conference.
The 15-point mandate (almost 600 words) was produced three months later, on 23
March 1995. The co-chairmen from 1995-97 were firstly from Finland and Russia, and then
Sweden and Russia. Since January 1997 the three co-chairmen are from Russia, the USA and
France. Is it coincidence that these are the three countries with the largest populations of
Armenians outside the Caucasus?
The three Minsk Group co-chairmen (with many changes of personnel) have been
consulting, discussing, coordinating, convening and observing for the years since then. They
were instructed to be guided by UN Security Council resolutions. All those resolutions
demand the immediate withdrawal of occupying forces from Azerbaijani territory. That is
never publicly mentioned by the co-chairmen.
The post of Personal Representative of the
OSCE Chairman-in-Office (CiO) on the Conflict dealt He represents the CiO in issues related
with by the Minsk Conference was created in to the conflict in and around Nagorno-
August 1995. Ambassador Andrzej Kasprzyk Karabakh, assists the CiO in achieving
(Poland) has held the position since 1 January 1997 an agreement on the cessation of the
and is based in Tbilisi. Thus, as with the co- armed conflict and in creating
chairmen, the OSCE makes clear its priority is to conditions for the deployment of an
prevent fighting, not the re-establishment of OSCE peace-keeping operation.
[https://www.osce.org/cio/andrzej-
international law in the region by ending the
kasprzyk]
military occupation of Azerbaijan’s territories.
Despite this, Azerbaijan continues to
participate fully in discussions at ministerial and presidential level organised at intervals by
the co-chairs and in other OSCE activities.

Azerbaijan and the European Union (EU)

In line with its broad-ranging approach to international relations,
Azerbaijan, standing at the junction of Europe and Asia, naturally
decided to engage with the European Union. A Partnership and
Cooperation Agreement was signed in 1996, and Azerbaijan is party to
the EU’s Eastern Partnership initiative.
The EU has provided aid to overcome the damage caused to
Azerbaijan by the war over Nagorno-Karabakh and technical advice
as the country developed its state and economic structures. It has
also supported Azerbaijani initiatives like the Southern Gas Corridor and
the diversification of its economy, including transcontinental projects
reviving the ancient Silk Road.
Much has changed since 1996, and in 2015 Azerbaijan drafted a document seeking to
update the relationship with the EU. Negotiations on a new agreement began in February
2017, during which the EU recognised that:

Azerbaijan is an important partner for the European Union, whose independence, sovereignty
and territorial integrity the EU supports. The EU is Azerbaijan's single largest partner,
representing 48.6% of its total trade and providing the largest share of foreign direct
investment.
[http://europa.eu/rapid/press-release_IP-17-5353_en.htm]

Welcome to Azerbaijan
 Azerbaijan and NATO
Azerbaijan joined the North Atlantic Cooperation Council in March 1992 and NATO’s
position on the situation in the South Caucasus was outlined in a Declaration adopted by a
ministerial meeting of the Council on 10-11 January 1994. Paragraph 21 confirmed the
position of respect for territorial integrity, opposed the occupation of lands and cites
respect for other states’ lands:
1. The situation in Southern Caucasus continues to be of special concern. We
condemn the use of force for territorial gains. Respect for the territorial integrity,
independence and sovereignty of Armenia, Azerbaijan and Georgia is essential to the
establishment of peace, stability and cooperation in the region.
[https://www.nato.int/docu/comm/49-95/c940111a.htm]

Following this, President Heydar Aliyev signed a framework document on the

Partnership for Peace at NATO headquarters in Brussels during an official visit to Belgium
on 3-4 May 1994.
Azerbaijan has since 2002 contributed to ISAF, the Nato-led security mission to
Afghanistan, with a military presence, training, overflights and other transit assistance.
NATO seminars and conferences have been hosted in Baku, as have meetings under the
auspices of the Euro-Atlantic Partnership Council.

President Heydar Aliyev signing the framework document on the

Partnership for Peace at NATO headquarters.

Political Structure
 The Council of Europe and Azerbaijan
Azerbaijan was admitted to full membership of the Council of Europe on 25 January
2001, ending a process that had begun in 1992. Its delegation attended its first session of
the Parliamentary Assembly (PACE) from 24-27 April 2001 and has been an active
contributor since then.
Resolution 1416, adopted by PACE on 25 January 2005, included the following:

1. The Parliamentary Assembly regrets that, more than a decade after the armed
hostilities started, the conflict over the Nagorno-Karabakh region remains unsolved.
Hundreds of thousands of people are still displaced and live in miserable conditions.
Considerable parts of the territory of Azerbaijan are still occupied by Armenian forces, and
separatist forces are still in control of the Nagorno-Karabakh region.
2. The Assembly expresses its concern that the military action, and the widespread
ethnic hostilities which preceded it, led to large-scale ethnic expulsion and the creation of
mono-ethnic areas which resemble the terrible concept of ethnic cleansing…. The Assembly
reiterates that the occupation of foreign territory by a member state constitutes a grave
violation of that state’s obligations as a member of the Council of Europe and reaffirms the
right of displaced persons from the area of conflict to return to their homes safely and with
dignity.
[http://assembly.coe.int/nw/xml/XRef/Xref-XML2HTML-en.asp?fileid=17289&lang=en]

Welcome to Azerbaijan
Economy
Introduction

As far as Azerbaijan was concerned, infrastructure, boosting business credits

its economy within the USSR was geared by and investment and reducing regional
and towards the centre. Thus the republic’s unemployment. By 2006 the annual growth
principal economic sectors: fossil fuel rate of GDP was registering record levels,
extraction and agriculture, as well as much exceeding 40%.
of its industrial production, were confined The sudden drop in oil prices of 2015
to supplying the internal Soviet system with was a global economic shock and Azerbaijan
raw materials and parts, rather than end was inevitably affected, being forced to
products. Then, with the USSR’s collapse, float the manat (₼, AZN) into devaluation.
came wars across the Caucasus that The State Oil Fund, established in 1999 to
engendered social chaos, diverted support economic stability, fund national
resources and blocked markets. projects to support socio-economic
This continued until Heydar Aliyev progress and accumulate funds for future
became president in 1993 and within generations, helped to ease the shock.
months had negotiated a ceasefire in the Of course, hydrocarbons are still at
conflict with Armenia over Nagorno- the heart of the economy; in addition to the
Karabakh, creating the stability necessary Baku-Tbilisi-Ceyhan oil pipeline, the
for economic recovery to begin. Turning Southern Gas Corridor to Italy ensures the
outwards for support from the IMF and flow of the Caspian Sea’s resources to
World Bank, reforms were implemented to Europe and beyond. However, the setback
instil greater discipline in management of in 2015 gave further impetus to the drive
the economy while gradually liberalising for further diversification of the economy
and encouraging broader production and and the pipelines represent an East-West
trade agreements. Programmes of connection that is being developed in other
privatization, beginning especially in sectors, too.
agriculture in 1996 – the handing over to The very fertile land ensures that
villagers of many thousands of hectares of agriculture will always be fruitful here and it
previously collectivized land – have seen has largely recovered from the whimsical
many advances in agricultural quality and distortions of the Soviet era to offer a tasty
production, in a sector that is now almost cornucopia.
totally in private hands. Azerbaijan aims to be a central hub in
The ‘Contract of the Century’, signed the development of transport and
in September 1994, kick-started the passenger links between Europe and China,
effective exploitation of the country’s in effect helping to revive the historical Silk
resources of oil and gas that was to power a Road. The Baku-Tbilisi-Kars railway,
dramatic upsurge in the economy and also inaugurated in October 2017, is a major link
sealed economic and political partnerships in this East-West trade route. The Baku
with a number of important players in the International Sea Trade Port continues the
international arena. route as the trans-Caspian connection with
By 2004 significant revenues began to Central Asia. And new north-south rail links
accrue from the flow of Caspian oil and connect Russia with South Asia via
President Ilham Aliyev decreed a five-year Azerbaijan.
state programme on the socio-economic Mutually advantageous international
development of the regions. Two further communication and cooperation are also
programmes have followed, improving the themes underlying the country’s

Welcome to Azerbaijan
venture into satellite technology (two conferences hosted in Baku on scientific,
Azersat satellites), its holding of major cultural and humanitarian issues.
sporting events and the many international The promotion and rapid growth of
tourism to the country serve similar aims.

Contract of the century

Once the ceasefire had been signed and some semblance of political order had been
restored in post-Soviet Azerbaijan, the priority was to ensure that the country had an
economic future. There had been some three years of negotiations with international oil
companies to develop its oil and gas reserves, but in 1993 incoming president, Heydar
Aliyev, dissatisfied with the terms, set new discussions in train. Finally, on 20 September
1994, Baku’s Gulustan Palace hosted the elite of the oil world and an Agreement on the
Joint Development and Production Sharing for the Azeri and Chiraq Fields and the Deep
Water Portion of the Guneshli Field in the Azerbaijan Sector of the Caspian Sea was signed.
So important was the agreement for Azerbaijan that it was soon hailed the Contract of the
Century; its impact on the economy, employment and associated industries supports that
claim. The investment implied amounted to $7.4 billion.
11 companies signed the agreement, with BP taking
the role of operator. These companies, forming the
SOCAR (Azerbaijan) Azerbaijan International Operating Company (AIOC), were
BP (UK) from countries that were strategically important in global
Amoco (USA) and regional terms. President Aliyev had negotiated with
Lukoil (Russia) political, as well as economic, benefits in mind. Major
Pennzoil (USA) economic investment naturally leads to increased interest
Unocal (USA) in the development and security of a project.
Statoil (Norway) The first oil came ashore from the Chiraq platform
McDermott (USA) in 1997 and was exported via the Baku-Novorossiysk
Ramco (UK) pipeline to the Black Sea. Two years later the Baku-Supsa
TPAO (Turkey) pipeline was in operation. But both of these required
Delta (Saudi Arabia) tankers to pass through the congested Bosporus to world
markets. An alternative route, with greater capacity, was
required…

Oil and gas pipelines

The Baku-Tbilisi-Ceyhan (BTC) pipeline project ranks second only to the Contract of
the Century in importance for the early reconstruction of Azerbaijan’s economy.
Getting the increased volumes of oil safely to world markets was a major project,
with political considerations added to the already daunting physical and economic
challenges. The state of war resulting from Armenia’s continued occupation of Azerbaijani
land ruled out the most direct route to a southern Turkish port, which was necessary if the
Bosporus was to be bypassed. A route through Iran also had its political problems and an
alternative to Russian-based supply lines was also desirable for European consumers. So
President Aliyev pushed hard for the pipeline to cross the Caucasus and pass through
Georgia; his view prevailed in the face of huge scepticism about the cost, logistics and level
of reserves under the Caspian.

Economy
 Construction of the 1,768 km pipeline began in April 2003 and the tanker British
Hawthorn left Turkey’s port at Ceyhan with the first delivery of oil on 4 June 2006.
Subsequently, Kazakhstan and Turkmenistan have both sent oil through BTC. Normally
transporting one million barrels (160,000m3) each day, BTC is of very significant regional
benefit to the economies of Georgia and Turkey in providing transit fees and employment.
The effect on Azerbaijan’s economy can be seen on the streets of every town and village.
This area of the economy has been further developed following the confirmation of
major reserves of gas in the Shah Deniz field under the Caspian Sea. The South Caucasus
Pipeline, shadowing BTC as far as Erzerum in Turkey, first delivered gas in December 2006.
Initially intended to supply Georgia and Turkey, the project has expanded into the Southern
Gas Corridor, to provide Europe with alternative supplies of gas and reduce the continent’s
dependence on Russian sources.
In a $40+ billion project, the Trans-Anatolian Pipeline (TANAP) will take gas the 1,805
km from Erzerum across Turkey to Kipoi on the Greek border. From there the Trans Adriatic
Pipeline (TAP) will continue the gas’s journey for 878 km across Greece and Albania, and
under the Adriatic to Italy. Existing pipelines will be used to transport gas further into
European grids.

Southern Gas Corridor

Welcome to Azerbaijan
 Agriculture
Agriculture ranks second in the economy, after the oil and gas industry, and has the
largest workforce. This is not surprising given the variety of climate – nine distinct climatic
zones have been identified – the extensive network of irrigation developed over centuries
and wonderfully fertile soil. As with other sectors, however, it has taken time to recover
from the imbalance of requirements determined by Soviet governments to satisfy the
whole USSR.
The republic’s large, collectivised state farms were geared towards the production of
fruit, vegetables and wine (until the last was destroyed during a Soviet anti-alcoholism
campaign). Meat, dairy and grain production was neglected locally in favour of imports
from other republics. With independence much land was distributed to villagers who, in
return, began to farm those traditional products once more. Azerbaijanis’ taste for kebabs –
especially when barbecued at a summer home – ensure that lamb, beef and chicken are
produced for flavour. The many sheep mowing the landscape also provide wool for the
stunning rugs produced by a resurgent carpet industry, as well as milk for some deliciously
tangy cheeses – goats also make a contribution here.

The range of fruit grown is truly impressive: apples, apricots, cherries, cornelian
cherries, cucumbers, feijoa, figs, grapes, kiwi, kumquats, lemons, melons, mandarins,
mulberries, nectarines, nuts, olives, peaches, pears, persimmons, plums, pomegranates,
quince, raspberries, strawberries, tomatoes, watermelons…. Much agricultural produce,
including the range of vegetables, still appears in markets according to season, in full, fresh
flavour, and the regions take pride in their tasty speciality: Quba for its apples, Goychay
pomegranates, Gadabey potatoes, Samirabad watermelons, Ivanovka honey, Qabala nuts,
Ordubad lemons, Lenkeran tea etc. Larger scale farms produce the grains – wheat, maize,
barley – and rice in the south.

Economy
 Many of the industries depressed during the Soviet Union or by its collapse are well
on the road to recovery. Vines were replanted and are producing some very palatable
wines and by 2017 cash crops like cotton and tobacco were being incentivised.
Towards the north-west, around Sheki, sericulture produces the raw material for
kelaghayi, the traditional silk scarves undergoing a fashionable revival.
Overfished in the Soviet era, stocks of sturgeon in the Caspian Sea fell so drastically
that bans and limits have been imposed on fishing for the famed black caviar they produce.
Fish farms have been established in efforts to replenish numbers and sturgeon and other
fish from the Caspian and the many rivers are generally available for the table.

Silk Road revival – transportation, communications

It’s something of a cliché by now, but Azerbaijan really is at a crossroads of
continents, north-south and east-west, and is ideally placed to serve as a major hub for
transport and trade. As China develops into a global economic presence, the revival of the
ancient Silk Road to connect with the West more quickly than by sea is a natural
consequence, and this is the context for key projects in the Caucasus taking advantage.
On 30 October 2017, the presidents of Azerbaijan and Turkey, and the Prime
Ministers of Georgia, Kazakhstan and Turkmenistan drove in symbolic final spikes to
inaugurate the Baku-Tbilisi-Kars railway (BTK). In connecting the three countries by rail, BTK
also completed a rail link between Europe, Central Asia and China, which will provide faster
access than sea routes. Trade and tourism are the targets of the venture, aiming at 17
million tonnes of cargo and three million passengers per year.

The New Silk Road

It was no coincidence that the inauguration took place at Alat, an hour’s drive south
of Baku, for a little over two months later, President Ilham Aliyev was back there for the
opening of the roll-on roll-off (ro-ro) terminal at the newly-built Baku International Sea
Trade Port [http://portofbaku.com]. This state-of-the-art port is the hub for trans-Caspian
road and rail transport, connecting with Aktau in Kazakhstan and Turkmenbashi in
Turkmenistan. As of 2018, a Free Trade Zone was also planned near the port to encourage
business investment and innovation in the region.
The potential for north-south trade links is by no means neglected and road and rail
lines between Russia, Azerbaijan and Iran have been thoroughly upgraded as part of the

Welcome to Azerbaijan
International North-South Transport Corridor, which connects northern Europe with India
and South-East Asia. Both road and railway also go through Alat and the corridor targets an
annual throughput of up to 20 million tonnes of cargo.
The Heydar Aliyev airport serving Baku is the busiest in the Caucasus and was
completely refurbished by 2013, as was the highway into the city. It is the main base of the
national airline, Azerbaijan Airlines (AZAL). There are four other airports with international
connections.
Most of the inter-city highways and rail lines have also been effectively upgraded.
Space has not been exempt from Azerbaijan’s drive to aid global communication. The
Azerspace 1 telecommunications satellite was launched on 7 February 2013 to offer TV,
radio and internet transmission over Europe, the Middle East, the Caucasus and Central
Asia. It is controlled by the state-run Azercosmos company, which launched Azerspace 2 on
25 September 2018.

Construction
Anyone visiting the country since Armenia, are being improved. The narrow
2005, cannot have failed to notice the and often pitted inter-city roads of the past
major boom in construction that has have been replaced by broad highways.
transformed many of its cities, towns and New factories, malls, hotels, hospitals and
villages. Now, alongside the architectural offices; homes, schools, sports centres,
treasures of the past stand monuments to stadiums and museums – as well as massive
21st century creativity. Residential construction work for the oil and gas
conditions, including for the million or so industries – continue to transform the
people ethnically cleansed from their landscape.
homes in the occupied territories and

Tourism
The capital of any country ensures it has facilities to attract visitors there for business
or leisure, and Baku lacks for nothing in that respect. However, developments in the
regions help to ensure that their local economies benefit, too, from the drive to promote
tourism. The capital has staged major international events in athletics – the very first
European Games – and music (festivals of pop, classical, traditional and jazz) as well as the
annual Formula 1 Azerbaijan Grand Prix. It has the fascinating medieval walled city, Icheri
Sheher and the sensationally contemporary Heydar Aliyev Centre and the whole range of
shopping, leisure and entertainment facilities that you would expect of a capital. It has
accommodation from hostels at prices to suit backpackers to pampered five-star luxury.

Economy
 This is also true of the regions which, however, offer alternative attractions. The ski
resorts at Shah Dag near Quba and Tufandag near Qabala are fully professionally equipped
and have accommodation to match. Qabala also attracts visitors to its free, outdoor
international music festival as well as intriguing insights into a history being revealed at an
archaeological dig. Head south to the Hirkan forest, home to Caucasian leopards, or across
to Nakhchivan, a landscape photographer’s dream world. These and more explain the
current rapid increase in numbers of tourists visiting the country.

Other industries
There are, of course, many other sectors operating within the economy: related to
the oil and gas industries are downstream refining and petrochemicals, as well as
equipment construction up to platform level.
Metals including gold, silver, copper and aluminium are produced from natural
resources.
The development of the cotton fields promises to boost further the raw materials
available to a textile sector already being supported by the opening of carpet workshops
around the country and the influx of tourists checking the silk products of Sheki and Basqal.

Welcome to Azerbaijan
Education
The Education System

Introduction
Building a system of education has necessitated constant struggle through every
phase of Azerbaijan’s striving for independence. The Russian Empire that dominated
through the 19th century served the people here poorly, showing little interest in education
for the general population. The main focal points of higher education were in and around
the regional vice-regal administration based in Georgia. Nevertheless, a number of
Azerbaijani intellectuals benefited from the Gori seminary and life in Tiflis (Tbilisi) and used
their learning to support the development of culture, education and national awareness
among their compatriots. Some did this directly by teaching, others lobbied on a broader
level, through publications like Molla Nasreddin, whose satire savaged those who held back
educational progress. Their efforts were supported by enlightened businessmen like oil
magnate Haji Zeynalabdin Taghiyev who, despite being illiterate himself, established
technical schools and the first school for Muslim girls
Thus, by the time the empire collapsed and the Azerbaijani Democratic Republic was
established in 1918, education was already high on the social agenda. As well as laying the
foundations of Baku State University, the country’s first, the republic also sponsored
education abroad for 100 students, mainly in western universities. The Bolshevik takeover
in 1920 ended the enterprise of the ADR and brought with it a further change of alphabet.
As if they didn’t have enough problems, students and teachers of the early 20th century had
to deal successively (and often simultaneously) with Arabic, Latin and Cyrillic alphabets.
The Soviet era saw the opening of a number of universities and the need for higher
education in foreign languages was recognised in 1937. Education was thorough and
detailed, but strongly ideological and autocratic. The inclusion of local history and culture in
the curriculum was similarly weighted or, at times, suppressed.
With renewed independence from 1991, as in other areas of life, Azerbaijani
education found itself in a different world and has had to adjust rapidly. The state has
invested heavily in educational infrastructure, modernising often crumbling structure with
upgrades and opening many new buildings. Like the ADR it has also taken advantage of the
international opportunities available and invested in youth by sponsoring their studies
abroad. There are also increasing numbers of international students and academics taking
advantage of the opportunities and facilities for study here. Of course, the Azerbaijan
University of Languages (AUL) has a particularly important function in facilitating exchange
between the country and the much bigger world in which it is rapidly making its mark.
Rector Kamal Abdulla’s previous experience as State Councilor on Multiethnic, Multicultural
and Religious Affairs ensures the university’s natural support for the national
multiculturalist policy that pursues inclusion and development for all. To this end the AUL
organised an international conference in 2018 on Heydar Aliyev: Multiculturalism and the
Ideology of Tolerance as well as other events and presentations to promote positive
intercultural relations within the country’s fascinating ethnic mix and with cultures abroad.

Welcome to Azerbaijan
 see: www.adu.edu.az

Schools
As with other aspects of society, education in Azerbaijan required significant changes
to method and content once it was free of the Soviet system, which was a heavily
ideological and top-down institution. This is an ongoing process. The move from Cyrillic to a
modified Latin alphabet for the Azerbaijani language, as well as the promotion of
Azerbaijani in place of the previously favoured Russian language, presented further
challenges. Since oil and gas revenues began to flow in the mid-2000s, there has been huge
investment in school buildings and other educational infrastructure.
The basic system, compulsory, free of charge and regulated by the Ministry of
Education, has children starting primary school at six years old, although increasing
numbers attend the kindergartens and pre-school classes that have emerged. After four
years of primary education, children move on to begin fifth grade in secondary school. After
ninth grade, pupils may leave with a certificate to continue vocational or technical training;
there are more than 100 technical/vocational institutions. Pupils who complete tenth and
eleventh grades receive certificates allowing them to enter examinations for entrance to
higher (eg. university) education. There are also specialist schools for children talented in,
for example, art, music or dance.
The growing numbers of fee-charging, private schools may offer alternative curricula,
especially the International Baccalaureate (IB), but also cover the Azerbaijani curriculum to
ensure pupils are equipped to enter local universities. As Azerbaijan continues to develop
its own system, the government has sponsored numbers of able students to study abroad
on condition that they return for some time to ensure that the state benefits from their
experience. Many of the country’s educational institutions have also fostered links with
foreign schools and universities in pursuit of cooperation and exchange.
Classes are taught mainly in Azerbaijani or Russian, with English, German, French,
Arabic and Persian among the tongues taught as foreign languages.

Education
 Higher education
The university system here originated in the first period of independence under the
Azerbaijan Democratic Republic, which founded Baku State University in 1919. The ministry
now regulates some 20 state universities and higher institutions, some with branches in the
various regions. One of these is the Azerbaijan University of Languages, whose origins can
be traced back to 1937, when a School of Foreign Languages was opened by the Azerbaijan
Pedagogical Institute. In 1948 this became the Azerbaijan Institute of Foreign Languages, in
1973 it was the Azerbaijan Pedagogical Institute of Foreign Languages, in 1996 the
Azerbaijan State Institute of Languages and finally achieved university status in 2000 as the
Azerbaijan University of Languages. Around 6,500 students currently study here.
There are institutions affiliated to other ministries, including the ADA University
(formerly the Azerbaijan Diplomatic Academy), established by the Ministry of Foreign
Affairs, and eight private universities. Education in the universities may progress through
three levels: Bachelor’s degree, Master’s degree and Doctorate.
In 2005, Azerbaijan committed itself to the European Union’s project to create a
European Higher Education Area, the “Bologna system”, and has implemented reforms to
comply with the system’s requirements.

Azerbaijan National Academy of Sciences (ANAS)

Founded in 1945 as an affiliate to the USSR Academy of Sciences, this is the principal
scientific institution in Azerbaijan. It coordinates scientific research across all state research
and educational centres, with responsibility for the study and development of Azerbaijan’s
natural resources, economy and culture through its six divisions: Physics, Mathematics and
Technical Sciences; Chemical Sciences; Earth Sciences; Biological and Medical Sciences;
Humanitarian Sciences and Social Sciences.

Welcome to Azerbaijan
Religion
Introduction

As indicated earlier, throughout its history Azerbaijan has been, and still is, a staging
post in the movement of peoples between east and west, north and south. These peoples
have inevitably brought with them their own cultures and beliefs, including religions. So it is
today that here there is still evidence and in many cases, still practitioners, of those
religions.
There is evidence, too, that the different beliefs received and adopted over the
centuries have often been adapted to existing practices. Pagan anthropomorphic statues
are to be found in the museums and a surviving animist regard for natural phenomena –
water, rocks, trees and others – can be seen in pirs (shrines), ribbon-festooned trees and on
any present-day trip to Besh Barmaq mountain. The Ateshgah temple at Surakhani recalls
Zoroastrianism, probably the first prophetic religion to be followed here. The lively Jewish
community in Quba’s Qirmizi Qesebe settlement continues to worship in its synagogues.
Christians of different persuasions built the practising Caucasian Albanian Chotari church in
Nij, near Qabala. The Orthodox church of the Archangel Michael, the German-Lutheran
church, the Armenian church of Gregory the Illuminator and the Catholic church of the
Immaculate Conception are all to be found in Baku. Of course, the predominant religion is
Islam and followers of both Shia and Sunni persuasions attend the many mosques that
distinguish the landscape throughout the country.
This variety of ethnicities and religions tends to support Azerbaijanis’ pride in the mix
of peoples settled and living here in multicultural respect, harmony and community.

Pagan beliefs

The evidence is sparse, but it seems that the early

inhabitants of these lands had similar beliefs to other pagan
peoples. Monuments unearthed by archaeology, like the three-
metre-high Bronze Age female figure from Khinisli (left),
possibly indicate some form of deity worship.
Strabo recounts the Albanians’ worship of Sun, Sky and
especially the Moon (the Azerbaijani flag reflects the
continuing fascination with heavenly bodies). The well-known
petroglyph of a boat at Qobustan seems to have the sun or a
star shining at its prow.
The epic tales of the Turkic Oghuz tribes in The Book of
Dede Qorqud (Korkut) certainly have a mix of traditions from
pagan to Islamic.
One of Azerbaijan’s highest mountains is named
Babadagh (Grandfather Mountain) and can be climbed by a
pilgim’s path to the pir at its summit. And the rites carried out at the summit of Besh
Barmaq mountain, north of Baku are further testament to the longevity of attaching
spiritual significance to prominent natural features.

Welcome to Azerbaijan
 Zoroastrianism
For its early inhabitants and travelers, one
of the most startling natural features in these
parts was the tendency of the landscape to spit
fire. And since fire is considered by worshippers
at the hearth of Zoroastrianism to be a medium
through which spiritual insight and wisdom is
gained, then it was equally natural for believers
to gravitate this way. In fact, the Ateshgah temple
at Surakhani on the Absheron Peninsula was built by believers from India. ‘Fire
worshippers’ is not a strictly accurate description, as the duty of those who followed
Zoroastrianism was to protect all four elements: earth, air, fire and water. Indeed, water
was held to be the source of the wisdom sought.
The main holiday in Azerbaijan is Novruz Bayram (New Year Holiday), celebrated
nowadays for five days around the spring solstice, 20-21 March. The four preceding
Tuesdays in the run-up to the holiday are dedicated to water, fire, air (wind) and earth
respectively. Many other elements and traditions associated with Novruz clearly predate
Islam and are much more reminiscent of the religion founded by Zardusht (Zarathustra,
Zoroaster) in Iran around the 7th century BCE. The religion survived in Caucasian Albania
until the arrival of Christianity, after which its adherents were persecuted. The 7th century
CE arrival of the Arabs with Islam sealed its final decline.

Judaism
Qirmizi Qesebe (Red Settlement) has been described
as the only all-Jewish town outside Israel and, standing
across the river from the city of Quba, it is home to
Mountain Jews, one of three distinct groupings in Azerbaijan.
Ashkenazy and Georgian Jews also contribute to the
country’s multicultural make-up. There is much debate about
the origins of the Mountain Jews, who constitute the
majority of the Jewish population.
One version is that they are the descendants of Jews
deported by Nebuchadnezzar to the northern reaches of his Babylonian domain following
his destruction of Jerusalem in 586 BCE. Practical evidence of an early Jewish presence in
the region was provided by the remains of a 7th century synagogue uncovered by
archaeologists near Shabran city in 1990.
Persecution of Jews in the Persian Empire at different times led to periodic flights to
the Quba region for sanctuary and Fatali Khan, ruler of Quba (1758-89), is especially
remembered for his benign protection, while his khanate benefitted from their skills. The
main street in Qirmizi Qesebe is named after him.
Many Ashkenazy Jews were attracted to Baku around the turn of the 20th century,
providing finance and, as with the Rothschilds, were involved directly in production. Well
integrated, they were represented among the ministers during the Azerbaijan Democratic
Republic. From Soviet times many are remembered for their contributions to education and
science, including Lev Landau, Baku-born winner of the Nobel Prize for Physics in 1962.
Following renewed independence, productive relations developed between
Azerbaijan and Israel, helped by the fond memories held of the land of their birth by
numbers of émigrés in Israel.

Religion
 There are currently two synagogues in Qirmizi Qesebe. A new synagogue opened in
2003 in Baku, housing one prayer hall for Ashkenazy Jews and one for Georgian Jews. In
2011 another one, for the Mountain Jewish community and financed by the government,
opened in the capital.

Christianity
Christianity arrived in what was then Caucasian Albania within the first century,
brought at first by the disciples Bartholomew and Thaddeus. Legend has it that
Bartholomew, having converted some of the local ruling family of the time, was martyred
by a non-convert member of the family in a city called
Albanopolis in the Caucasus, and some historians believe the
coincidence of the names Albania and Albanopolis suggests
that what is now Baku was the site of the saint’s death. There
used to be a chapel on the presumed site, near Maiden
Tower. The chapel itself fell foul of a Soviet campaign against
religion and was demolished in 1936.
Another version is that St. Eliseus (Elisey, Elisha) was
the first missionary in the region.
According to a 10th century history of Caucasian
Albania, possibly by Movses Kaghankatvatsi, the saint built a
church in a place called Gis. This fits well with local belief that
the church in the village of Kish, near Sheki, probably built
around the 12th century, stands on the site of the first church
in the region (see p.26).
The first king of Caucasian Albania to accept Christianity
was Urnayr in the 4th century. At its peak in the 5th century,
the church was unable to withstand the influence of the 7th century Arab invaders and went
into decline. Many of those who held onto their religion were eventually subsumed into the
Armenian Church and finally, by decree of Tsar Nicholas I in 1836, the Albanian Church was
effectively dissolved. Today, the Udi community in Nij village near Qabala, descendants of
the Caucasian Albanians, have revived their traditions and re-established their religious
practices in the Chotari church dedicated to St. Elisey.
Russia’s 19th century conquest of the South Caucasus brought with it the Orthodox
Church. Molokan dissenters from Orthodoxy had sought sanctuary here from persecution in
the previous century; they are notably still present in the Ismayilli region village of
Ivanovka, producing popular dairy products, wine and honey.
Another of Russia’s early post-conquest moves was to entice German immigrants
from their famine-ravaged lands in Wurtemburg. Many eventually settled in the town of
Helenendorf (now Goygol) and established a thriving wine industry. The Lutheran Church of
the Saviour in Baku owed its consecration in 1899 to German architect Adolf Eichler, with
support from the Nobels.
Roman Catholics in Baku had lost their church to the Soviet drive against religion in
1937. Following a visit to the capital by Pope John Paul II in 2002, President Heydar Aliyev
allocated land for the building of a new church. The Church of the Virgin Mary’s Immaculate
Conception was consecrated in 2007.

Welcome to Azerbaijan
 Islam
In terms of religion, Azerbaijan can fairly claim to be among the most secular of
Islamic nations. The constitution declares Azerbaijan to be a secular state and that all
religions are equal before the law. There may be debate about why this is so, but surely the
frequent historical contact with peoples of different beliefs and the 70 years spent within
the atheistic Soviet Union, when religion was officially discouraged, are contributory
factors.
Islam arrived in the region with the Arab expansion that followed within 20 years of
the consolidation of the Muslim community in 622 CE that initiates the Islamic calendar.
Initially conversion appears to have been by establishing settlements of believers and
setting different rates of taxation, rather than by physical enforcement; there was a
tolerance of other religious beliefs, especially those of ‘people of the book’.
Pockets of resistance to the Islamic caliphate included the ill-fated 9th century
Khurramite rebellion led by Babek, originating in the parts of Azerbaijan now within Iran.
Elements of Islam and Zoroastrianism were combined in him with something of a
nationalistic desire to return to pre-Arabic Sassanid rule. Thus Babek has been variously
celebrated as rebel against the oppressor and national hero.
Later another leader with Azerbaijani origins was to radically influence the direction
taken by Islam in the region. Shah Ismayil I (Khatai) founded the Safavid dynasty that was to
rule for two centuries an area finally extending from Eastern Turkey through Iraq into part
of Pakistan and along the Caucasus, even parts of Turkmenistan. One of his earliest acts
after enthronement in 1501 was to proclaim the Shia form of Islam as the state religion.
This led to conflict with the Sunni Ottoman Empire, but that part of his legacy has survived
(as has his poetry, written in Azerbaijani under the pen name Khatai [one who has done
wrong]).

Heydar Mosque overseen by a Shia Akhund and a Sunni Imam

Religion
 Following the conquest of the part of Azerbaijan north of the River Araz by 1828, the
Russian Empire instituted bureaucratic controls of the Islamic structures. Alongside the
Azerbaijani national consciousness that developed from the late 19th century period
onwards there was increasing intellectual criticism of corruption among the clerics and the
Azerbaijan Democratic Republic made some attempts to bring the religion into line with
modern conditions. However, the imposition of Soviet rule in 1920 was followed by the
closure of mosques and persecution of clerics until 1944 when the state decided it needed
Muslims to encourage maximum support for the war with Nazi Germany and an
administration for Muslims in the Transcaucasus was established. The late Soviet-era
regimes eased restrictions somewhat and Islam was tolerated within limits.
Naturally, unofficial informal religious structures and practices survived the Soviet
era and since independence, especially following the inflow of oil revenues, old mosques
have been refurbished and new ones built. The Islam practised nowadays in Azerbaijan is in
a more relaxed and tolerant form than in many other countries.

Welcome to Azerbaijan
Culture and Art
Carved in stone

In its culture, Azerbaijan presents something of a spatial

illusion. For outsiders it is all too easy to overlook a small
country at the far eastern end of Europe, merging into Asia and
dwarfed by its hugely dramatic neighbours to the north and
south. But for the visitor with eyes and ears open, the range and
quality of the culture here far exceeds expectations and arouses
both excitement at the treasures to be discovered and despair
of getting close to experiencing them all. Indeed, where to
begin? A difficult question. Timewise, back 12,000 years to the
rock engravings and Qaval Dash tambourine stone at Qobustan? On the floor, with carpets
of magical design? The walls hung with paintings exquisite or expressionist? With Sheki silk
or Lahic copper?
As well as the dramatic landscapes and natural fiery phenomena, the settlers,
invaders, traders and travellers who have criss-crossed these lands over the millennia have
inevitably, one way or another, stirred the imaginations of those who remained to build a
culture that is endlessly fascinating. Stories ancient and modern abound and are told,
developed and remodelled in every form of artistic expression. Archaeology is still turning
up the artefacts of the ancients, and their jewellery, textiles, ceramics and weaponry tell us
much about the lives they led and their beliefs, as well as the skills of their potters, weavers
and smiths.
The superb petroglyphs at Qobustan are the most direct line of communication we
have with the land’s prehistoric inhabitants and it’s not difficult to connect with the tales
their drawings tell. Some of those themes are eternal to humanity and naturally appear also
in The Book of Dede Qorqud (Korkut) one of the earliest written records we have of the
legends of the Oghuz Turks, nomads from the East who were here by the 11th century and
are the ancestors of many of today’s Azerbaijanis.
The culture’s major classical poets were writing shortly after that and inspired
generations of writers to follow them into rhyme and rhythm. Great satirists, dramatists,
journalists and novelists have all had their say on social development over the ages since
then.
The Qobustan drawings are the
earliest, too, in the line of Azerbaijani
painting, and they have been referenced
style-wise in the works of modern artists. As
for the Qaval Dash, a two-metre-long stone
that produces sounds of different pitch
depending on where it’s hit by a smaller
stone, well that has inspired modern
contributors, too, to a strong Azerbaijani
music tradition that embraces folk, ashiq,
mugham, classical, opera, jazz, rock, pop and
rap. And one particular petroglyph appears to
show people at the Yalli, a communal line or
circle dance that still almost inevitably breaks out at parties and celebrations.

Welcome to Azerbaijan
 As most of the caves originally decorated by the artistic talents of the Qobustan
Stone Age people have since collapsed, it’s not possible to track the architectural tradition
back that far, but it’s still well worth a look at the products of its practitioners in many of
the towns and cities. Baku has everything from medieval alleys to early oil-boom European
with touches of Renaissance and Gothic, to Soviet classical grandeur, with surprisingly
imaginative detail, and jaw-dropping 21st century panache. Sheki, Ganja, Quba and
Nakhchivan are among the other towns that have architectural delights in store.

Literature

Antiquity
The Book of Dede Qorqud (in Turkish ‘Korkut’) is referenced a few times throughout
this book, and this is an indication of its importance to Azerbaijanis’ identity with their
Turkic tradition. The book consists of 12 tales of the Oghuz Turks, supposedly told by Dede
(Grandfather) Qorqud, the wise elder and bard of the tribe, who is usually depicted with a
qopuz, a stringed instrument related to the lute or saz. According to Geoffrey Lewis,
producer of an atmospheric English translation (Penguin, 1974) the Oghuz Turks began
migrating west from the Altai mountains (the western edge of today’s Mongolia) in the 9th
century and had reached west of the Caspian Sea by the 11th century. There is a strong
argument that they comprise a substantial element in Azerbaijanis’ ancestry. Lewis’s
translation is based on two, separate 16th century manuscripts (found in Dresden and the
Vatican), although he dates the original compilation to no later than the early 15th century.
The tales are entertainingly epic, with battles and chivalric romance a-plenty. There are
women characters who are no less determinedly heroic than their
men – see Princess Saljan in the tale of Kan Turali – and also
interesting detail of the daily lives and customs of these nomads For an intriguingly post-
on their way across Asia. modern approach to the
Dede Qorqud epic and to
Eastern Renaissance Shah Ismayil as poet,
see Kamal Abdulla’s novel
The 12th and early 13th centuries were evidently a kind of
Incomplete Manuscript.
cultural renaissance in these parts, judging from the evidence of
the literature and architecture that survived even the Mongol
hordes that followed, and the city of Ganja was especially blessed with talent. Not much is
known of her life, nor is there a great collection of her poetry, but Mehseti Ganjavi (1089-
1159) was clearly a spirited poetess, with a sharp wit as well as romance in her soul.

No force can bind us: pull of moment, arrows flying home,

Nor any wild nostalgia that seized our hearts whilom.
Though my soft braids turned chains of steel and anchored in your heart,
Could any chain keep me at home if I should wish to roam?
(From a rubai by Mehseti Ganjavi/ Trans. Gladys Evans)

Culture and Art

 Mehseti was followed by Nizami Ganjavi (1141-1209), generally acclaimed as the
country’s greatest poet, principally for his Khamsa, a collection of five long poems, much
imitated, referenced and transformed. The best known is the tragic romance Leyli and
Majnun, but the best English translation so far is of Haft Paykar (The Seven Beauties) by
Julie Scott Meisami (Oxford, 1995), with a very accessible text, but prohibitive price. The
Iskender-Nameh (Book of Alexander) similarly imagines episodes from the life of a monarch
(Alexander the Great) to highlight the moral duties of life and leadership. This is a theme of
other poems too; in The Story of Sultan Sanjar and the Old Woman, the woman complains:

You were made king to keep your folk from harm,

To treat their wounds with vivifying balm.
To what your subjects say, oh Shah, give ear,
To what their hearts demand, give heed sincere.
(Trans. Olga Moisseyenko)

Nesimi (1369-1417) was a Hurufi (a form of Sufism) poet, believing that the individual
consists of both the spiritual (God) and the material, and his poems, written in Azerbaijani,
Persian and Arabic, reflect the beauty and deep philosophy of being. His teacher, Naimi was
executed as a heretic at Alinja in Nakhchivan, where his tomb can be seen today. Nesimi
himself was executed by being flayed in Aleppo.
Fuzuli (c.1494-1556) is ranked alongside Nizami as a great Azerbaijani poet. Living in
what is now Iraq, he also wrote in Azerbaijani, Persian and Arabic and he is regarded as the
first major contributor to literature in the Azerbaijani language – especially for his Leyli and
Majnun, which was the version used by Uzeyir Hajibeyov for his pioneering opera. Fuzuli
also embodied the Sufi tradition of writing about love as the essence of God.
Shah Ismayil I (1487-1524) Born in Ardebil (Iranian Azerbaijan) founded the Safavid
dynasty that ruled an empire for over 200 years. He also wrote significant poetry in the
Azerbaijani language under the name Khatai.
Molla Panah Vagif (1717-1797) and Vidadi (1709-89), the former a vizier to the Khan
of Qarabagh, the latter from Shamkir, are remembered for their poetic correspondence in
language and content that is more realistic and down-to-earth than previous Sufi-
influenced verse.

Welcome to Azerbaijan
 Towards Independence
Khurshidbanu Natavan (1832-97) was born in Shusha, the daughter of the last khan
of Qarabagh. Practically philanthropic, she also promoted the poetry, music and art in
which she was well-versed. She assembled the poets and writers of her day into literary
societies, thought to be the first in Azerbaijan, and some sources record them as being
mixed (male and female) assemblies. Natavan wrote her own poetry, ghazals and quatrains,
of which some were descriptive of nature but others reveal an overwhelming sadness and
resentment of Destiny for the loss of her young son to tuberculosis. Alexandre Dumas
records meeting her in Baku when invited to visit by her husband.
If the 12th century was a renaissance, then the late 19th century was an Azerbaijani
enlightenment. It has to be said that the Russian Empire played a role in bringing European
culture to the Caucasus and opened new cultural vistas. Much of this took place through
Tiflis (now Tbilisi) and the Gori seminary as centres of the empire’s Caucasus viceroyalty
and education, and Azerbaijanis took advantage.
Among the first to do so in literature was Mirza Fatali Akhundov (1812-78). Born in
Nukha (now Sheki) but working for much of his life as a translator in Tiflis, he began writing
poems, but his major work began in the 1850s when he wrote six plays, that marked the
beginning of modern, realist Azerbaijani theatre. Clearly influenced by Moliere, his plays
were comedies with satirical comment on the superstitious old ways and urging new ways
of thinking towards social advance.
Of course there was resistance and the first performance of one of these plays, The
Adventures of the Vizier of the Lenkeran Khan, did not take place in Baku until 1873. But a
course had been set in realism and a national consciousness that culminated in the founding
of the Azerbaijan Democratic Republic in 1918. Promoters of that first performance included
Hasan bey Zardabi (1837-1907) who, two years later founded Akinchi (Ploughman) the first
independent Azerbaijani language newspaper and Najaf bey Vezirov (1854-1926), who was
later to write his own take on reactionary society in the play Heroes of
Our Time (1900). Mirza Jalil Mammadguluzade (1869-1932) and
Abdurrahim bey Hagverdiyev (1870-1933) followed in Akhundov’s
footsteps with their own dramatic critiques and Huseyn Javid (1882-
1941) broadened the scope to take in the Europe of World War I with
his 1918 play Iblis (The Devil).
Mirza Jalil Mammadguluzade wrote stories and plays (The
Dead) that are still in the repertoire, but he is especially celebrated
for founding and editing a magazine that travelled beyond
Azerbaijan into Iran and across the Caspian into Central Asia. Molla
Nasreddin took its name from the folklore ‘wise fool’ hero of a
legion of jokes told across Central Asia and the Caucasus.
Launched in Tiflis in 1906, the satirical magazine attracted
the best writers and cartoonists of the day to help prove that the
pen could be mightier than the sword. It targeted especially the
restrictions imposed on women and the general backwardness of
the clerics. Frequently banned and forced by social upheavals to
relocate, first to Tabriz and then to Baku, it kept going until 1931, when Mammadguluzade,
tired and disaffected by Soviet pressure on content, ceased production in the year before
his death. The memoirs written by his equally activist wife Hamideh khanim Javanshir have
been translated by Hasan Javadi (Awake: …) and provide a fascinating insight into their lives
and struggles in a crucial period of history for the Caucasus and Iran.

Culture and Art

 Other magazines and newspapers were also produced, sometimes in competition
with Molla Nasreddin. The first newspaper for women, Ishiq (Light) was launched in 1911
by Khadija Alibeyova. Soon afterwards another woman to make her mark in journalism was
Gulara Köylü qızı Qadirbeyova. Born in 1903 in the Sheki region she trained as a teacher,
but was soon writing for the Şərq Qadını (Eastern Woman) first published in 1923. Later
appointed editor-in chief of the magazine, her advocacy of freedom of speech and women’s
rights, as well as friendship with independent members of the intelligentsia, made her a
victim of Stalin’s repression and her early death in 1942 was in Siberian exile.

Ali and Nino – a classical literary mystery

In 1937 a book called Ali and Nino was published in Vienna. It was written in German
by ‘Kurban Said’. Arguments have raged about who Kurban Said really was. Most opinion
seems to go with Lev Nussimbaum (1905-42) who left Azerbaijan aged about 14 with his
family to flee the violence in the streets. Others argue that the author was Yusif Vazir
Chamanzaminli (1887-1943) a writer who fell victim to Stalin’s purges and died in a Gulag
camp. Whoever wrote the book, it is a richly rewarding read. The tale of the love between
traditional high status Azerbaijani Ali and Georgian princess Nino is set in the early decades
of the 20th century; the very atmospheric context is Azerbaijan’s struggle for independence.

The Soviet Era

The independence and national awareness of the Azerbaijan Democratic Republic
was submerged by the Bolshevik takeover in 1920; it actually became dangerous to show
pride in the nation. When a decree was issued in 1929 that banned the playing of the tar,
and a loyal poet wrote in support of the ban, the lyrical poet Mikayil Mushfig (1908-39)
was moved to write a long poem in its defence:

Sing, Tar, sing, Tar sing!

Who can forget you who once heard you sing?
Grief of the people, the tears of their heart -
This is their music, their fiery heart.

Welcome to Azerbaijan
 Attacked by the official writers’ organisations for being a ‘chauvinist’ and ‘anti-
Soviet’, Mushfig was arrested in 1937 and executed in 1939.
Even Samad Vurghun (1906-56), one of the most loyal and decorated poets in the
USSR, was not immune to criticism and was accused of nationalism and saved from arrest,
it is said, only by Stalin’s death and succeeding changes in policy.
Ilyas Efendiyev (1914-96) left a legacy of stories and plays that explore social
relationships and psychology and are still popular in performance.
Renewed Independence
Samad Vurghun’s sons, novelist Yusif (1935-98) and poet Vaqif (1939-2015)
Samadoghlu, continued their father’s profession, albeit with quite individual styles. Vagif
was also a jazz aficionado.
Ilyas Efendiyev’s son, and deputy prime minister from 1993-2018, Elchin (1943- ) has
been similarly prolific in writing novels, stories and plays that are keen and witty observations
of social life, sometimes with a gentle, satirical edge. His short stories and novels have been
filmed (The First Love of Baladadash, Mahmut and Meryem…) and translated into many
languages. His plays are a staple of Azerbaijani theatre repertoires and have been staged in
London and New York (Shakespeare, Citizens of Hell) among other prestigious centres.
Anar Rzayev (1938- ) has written novels, screenplays and is a prolific writer of short
stories, especially effective in illustrating the tensions of social life. Many are in a Soviet
setting, but the focus is on individual psychology and feelings which, he says, are the same
whatever the political system. Anar has chaired the Union of Azerbaijani Writers since 1987.
Kamal Abdullayev (1950- ) is a distinguished
academic in the fields of linguistics and literary studies,
conducting much research into Azerbaijani, Turkish and
Russian languages and epic Turkic literature, including
The Book of Dede Qorqud. He was rector of the Slavic
University in Baku and is currently rector of the
University of Languages. He is also a writer of fiction as
Kamal Abdulla. Particularly successful is his novel The
Incomplete Manuscript, which combines, in
contemporary setting and fashion, the Dede Qorqud
epic and the history of poet Shah Ismayil I. The result is
daringly successful in an excellent English translation.
Chingiz Abdullayev (1959- ) turned to writing
detective fiction after a brief career for the Soviet
intelligence service. He is probably the bestselling
contemporary Azerbaijani writer and one of his character
heroes, Drongo, is almost a folk legend. Abdullayev is
secretary of the Union of Azerbaijani Writers.
Sandro Teti Editore Stand In addition to the above established writers, many
The New Silk Road Conference. of the younger generations are testing their skills,
Rome. 19.10.2017
Photo: Rustam Mammadov sometimes in blogs and then launching into print – Sayali
Bahar, Narmina Mammadzadeh – soon to be in English?
And expatriate Azerbaijanis may be looking back
to their homeland. Elchin Safarli (1984) is well on his way (but only in Azerbaijani and
Russian) and Ella Leya, born in Azerbaijan but now a jazz singer in the USA, produced the
excellent Orphan Sky in 2015, an evocative novel of a young woman’s struggle to overcome
the obstacles of Soviet life to come of musical age in ‘70s and ‘80s Baku.

Culture and Art

Art

There really is so much, and energetic exploration will reap rewards. In Sheki, the
murals in the 18th century Khans’ Palace should not be missed.
The modern era is often said to begin with the more modest, realist work of Bahruz
Kengerli (1892-1922). The museum dedicated to his work is in Nakhchivan city.
The early years of the 20th century were enlivened by publications like Molla
Nasreddin which featured sharp cartoons by Azim Azimzade (1880-1943), who was equally
at home in more traditional forms. A statue to him and his work stands in the garden just
off cobbled Qulle Street in Baku’s old city – Icheri Sheher.
The village of Amirjan on the Absheron Peninsula has produced a number of
personalities, including the distinctive figure of Sattar Bahlulzade (1909-74) whose bold
impressionist landscapes of his homeland are equally unmistakable and energetic. Qeyyur
Yunus (1948- ) from the same fertile village works in a different, almost naïve, tradition,
somehow reminiscent of Qajar art.
Tahir Salahov (1928- ) was for 19 years First Secretary of the USSR Union of Artists
and was instrumental in opening up to artists from the West. However, it is for his ‘Severe
Style’ paintings that he is rightly highly regarded and can be seen at his house museum in
Icheri Sheher. The heartbeat that he pumped into the impositions of ‘Socialist Realism’ give
his paintings a quiet energy and humanity that surely make him one of his era’s greats. His
1950s paintings of life on Oil Rocks – 200 kms of causeways and oil platforms built out in
the Caspian Sea off the end of the Absheron Peninsula – are examples of the challenge he
set to the conventions of Soviet art; see The Shift is Over. Maral Rahmanzade (1916-2008)
was actually out there with the oilmen first and her paintings are also worth checking.
The paintings of Toghrul Narimanbeyov (1930-2013) demand attention for their
sheer energy and verve. His mural in Baku’s Puppet Theatre is a fine example. The canvases
of Mir Javad Mir Javadov (1923-92) are fierce in colour and application, often with
grotesque figures that defied Soviet convention in blasting contemporary social mores and
asserting the basics of human relationships.
Zakir Huseynov (1961-2010) was one of the many artists captivated by the open land
of the Absheron Peninsula. His individual approach to the land- and sea-scapes, and the
characters, animals and myths associated with them are painted in bright tones that create
a yearning for the warmth, air and character of the Absheron coast.
Yusif Mirza (1959- ) also invokes the tales and legends of his native land, often using
Qobustan motifs but he has also referred to his home village in Lachin that is now under

Welcome to Azerbaijan
occupation and out of reach. The romantic warmth of his old city nocturnes and lamp-lit
interiors are pleasing to eye and mind. His studio is opposite the Russian Drama Theatre.
The keen eye will take in some of the excellent sculptures that stand on the capital’s
streets, and the great sculptor Omar Eldarov (1927- ) is often responsible. Notable in the
city centre are his statues of the poets Fuzuli and Natavan, as well as the endearing wall
plaque of jazz pianist Vagif Mustafazade that points the way to his house museum in the
old city and the tribute to artist Azim Azimzade mentioned above. The Fakhri Khiyabani
(Avenue of Honour) cemetery is almost an outdoor gallery itself, with some of Eldarov’s
grave statues standing in tribute to the great and the good buried there. His wonderful
statue of Sattar Bahlulzade is on the artist’s grave in Amirjan
Western influence has made inroads in recent years and the Yarat [‘create’]
Contemporary Art Space promotes contemporary and conceptual art. Its centre at the
southern end of Baku’s Boulevard hosts frequent exhibitions and events by Azerbaijani and
international artists.
The National Art Museum on the central Istiqlaliyyat Street in Baku holds a large
collection of works – the lower building mainly displays its international collection, with
Azerbaijani artists in the upper building. The Museum of Modern Art, on the corner of
Uzeyir Hajibeyov and Yusif Safarov Streets, is dedicated to contemporary art. There are
seven or eight art galleries in Baku’s old city, Icheri Sheher, from traditional to
contemporary, all worth a visit.

Music

Traditions of making music, especially traditional and classical music, seem to have
survived more firmly among the Azerbaijani population than with the people of many other
countries. This may be partly due to the strong Soviet emphasis on children learning to
play, with many homes possessing a piano as a
matter of course.
There is a tradition of folk music that arose
out of a largely agriculture-based economy; the
variety of pipes in the local musical inventory may
be due to shepherds’ need to fill their long hours
watching over their flocks. The tales of legendary
heroes and the necessity of marking festivities
and ceremonies, lulling babies to sleep, bewailing
misfortune or declaring happiness or love have all
driven Azerbaijanis to sing or compose folk music.

Mugham
This is probably the music most closely
associated with the national spirit. To the
western ear, the wailing tones suggest that its
origins may have been with the Islamic azan call
to prayer and while there are witty mughams, a Toghrul Narimanbeyov
live performance often has a certain spiritual Mugam. 1966
aspect. Without speaking the language, the only
way to have any appreciation of the music is from

Culture and Art

a live performance by a good singer. Thus a performance by Alim Qasimov and/or his
daughter Fergana, should not be missed. Although he has been criticised by purists for
certain quirks and innovations, Alim takes his music seriously and is hugely popular with the
public and most aficionados. Other well-regarded current singers include Sekina
Ismayilova, Mansum Ibrahimov and Nazaket Teymurova. Alim and Fergana sing Getme,
Getme (Don’t Go) with the Kronos Quartet at [https://bit.ly/2qFU1nq]
A mugham singer (khanende) often uses a def, a tambourine-like drum, to provide
percussion and amplify the voice and in a typical trio is accompanied by musicians playing a
tar – a plucked, 11-string instrument with a figure-of-eight soundboard and a kamancha – a
bowed 4-string instrument with an almost spherical body and a cello-type spike that rests
on the thigh. The trio may be supplemented by a balaban, a straight pipe that produces a
low, mournful sound, sometimes acting as a drone, and a naghara, a tom-tom drum played
with the hands. Mugham is a complex form of music, modal with microtones, and does not
play in the scales familiar to western music. It is structured but allows for improvisation
within the structure. There are seven different modes of mugham, each with its own tone
that may influence the mood. The words sung are often taken from the classical poets
(Nizami, Fuzuli…).
Tradition has it that the best singers came from Qarabagh, especially Shusha – the
mountain air was credited with helping to produce the voice. Hence the 19th and 20th
century heroes of mugham like Sadigjan, who developed the modern Azerbaijani tar and
legendary singer Khan Shushinski – both from Shusha, since ethnically cleansed of all
Azerbaijanis and still under Armenian occupation.
The International Mugham Centre on the Boulevard, has regular concerts.
For a more detailed explanation of this music see [https://bit.ly/2qGN2v8]

Ashiq
The term is believed to have originated in the 15th century with the Safavid poet Shah
Ismail, it means ‘in love’ or ‘devoted’, referring to the performer’s commitment to the art.
Ashiq music may be compared with the bards or minstrels of the west, telling tales of love
or heroism, and life in lyrical or satiric mood. It’s easy to imagine
an ashiq reciting the tales from The Book of Dede Qorqud. The
singer usually accompanies him/herself on a saz, a kind of 8-string,
long-necked lute. The full repertoire contains a daunting 200
songs, 150 literary-musical epics known as ''dastans,'' nearly 2,000
poems in different traditional poetic forms and numerous stories.
An ashiq is often judged, and sometimes challenged in
competition, on how many of these works can be performed –
there are legends of ashiq ‘duels’ ending with the defeated singer
having to give up his saz, or even his life. Apart from formal
concerts, ashiqs are a familiar sight in their papaq hats at
weddings and parties.
Performances can vary; there are some who pride
themselves on their dance moves, for some the saz provides basic
accompaniment to their upbeat stories, while others prefer to
display their dexterity and expression in a wholly instrumental performance. Among the
latter is Nemet Qasimli (1972- ) from Gadabey in west Azerbaijan, where the tradition
favours solo rather than group performances. See and listen here for a taste of his playing:
[https://bit.ly/2ETGldy]

Welcome to Azerbaijan
 Other ashiqs to look out for include Ashiq Ali, a big guy who occasionally adds dance
to his performance and Ashiq Samira (1981- ), among the best of the modern women
ashiqs.

Meykhana
Literally translating as ‘winehouse’ gives some idea of
the origins of this form of generally competitive music.
Comparable in some ways with rap music, it is popular
nowadays as a duel, in which two (almost always) men
compete with each other to quickly and spontaneously
produce rhymed verse in ‘call and response’ fashion to an
insistent, driving 6/8 rhythm. The verse is often topical
commentary on social life, laced with satire and wit. With a
natural tendency to be subversive, it was often suppressed
in Soviet times, but was allowed some space during 1941-
45 to raise wartime spirits with anti-Nazi sentiment. One of
meykhana’s early proponents, possibly its founder, was the
poet Aliagha Vahid (1895-1965), whose imaginative statue
is in a small square in the old city behind the Icheri Sheher
metro station and who popularized the poetic ghazels of the classical poet Fuzuli.

Classical
Uzeyir Hajibeyov (1885-1948) is the composer largely credited
with bringing classical music into the Azerbaijani tradition – indeed
into that of the Middle East. Growing up in Shusha, ‘the cradle of
Azerbaijani music and culture’, he was still only 22 years old in 1908,
which marked the premiere of the first opera to be written in the
Muslim world – his opera, Leyli and Majnun. The libretto was closely
based on the poem of the same name by the 16th century poet Fuzuli.
The theme is the nature of love as the two lovers struggle to be
together in the face of family and social opposition. Halibeyov’s music
combined classical western operatic forms – a chorus singing in
harmony and a symphony orchestra – with improvised mughams and
traditional Azerbaijani instruments.
Finding sponsorship and suitably voiced actors (no women were allowed on stage in
those days) was hard enough, but somehow Uzeyir and brother Jeyhun (co-writer of the
libretto) pulled it off and Uzeyir went on to write six further operas and three musical
comedies, including the popular Arshin Mal Alan (The Cloth Peddler), a light-hearted view
of the problems of finding a wife when women were veiled and social convention denied
the chance of meeting before marriage.
As well as being the first to document many folk songs with notation, Hajibeyov was
also behind the founding of a music school that was to train his successors in classical
music, and jazz.
Among the best of those successors was Qara Qarayev (1918-82) who, after
graduating from the Baku school went on to train under Dmitry Shostakovich in Moscow.
As rector of the Azerbaijan State Conservatoire Qarayev continued to promote the use of
folk music in teaching, as well as other genres, including jazz. His own most notable works

Culture and Art

included the ballets Seven Beauties (1952, based on Nizami’s poem) and Path of Thunder
(1958) about the issue of race in South Africa. The waltz from the former is especially
popular: [https://bit.ly/2qCPanM]
Fikret Amirov (1922-84) was the son of a well-know mugham singer from Shusha and
grew up surrounded by traditional music. Taught by Uzeyir Hajibeyov, he became a prolific
composer, including in a new genre he called symphonic mugham, as well as popular film
music and the opera Sevil. His Azerbaijan Capriccio can be heard here:
[https://bit.ly/2IZXPaM]
The great classical opera (and folk) singer was Murtuza Mammadov, better known as
Bulbul (1897-1961). His stage name translates as nightingale and, La Scala trained, he was
the first to play the lead role in Hajibeyov’s acclaimed heroic opera Koroghlu. He also
studied, taught and wrote on traditional music and instruments.
Of the current composers Firangiz Ali-Zadeh (1947- ) is best known. She studied
under Qara Qarayev and developed her own way of combining the traditional with western
modernism in her compositions, giving free range to contrasts in colour, mood and culture
as, she says ‘the new’ arises from these contradictions. She is much honoured in her
homeland and her works have been performed by the likes of Mstislav Rostropovich, the
Kronos Quartet, Yo-Yo Ma with the Silk Road Project and Alim Qasimov. Her Mugham
Sayagi is here: [https://bit.ly/2qGCc7N]

Jazz
Many visitors are surprised to learn that there is also a long tradition of jazz here, in
fact Baku was known as a jazz city within the USSR. Not that it had an easy ride. All jazz
aficionados remember the fate of Parviz Rustambeyov (1922-49). A brilliant saxophone
player – so good the 22-year-old was invited to join a Moscow-based band – he was called
the Soviet Benny Goodman. A couple of years after he returned to Baku he was arrested
and sentenced to 15 years’ imprisonment for being ‘pro American’. His major crime being
to play an instrument strongly identified with ‘corrupt’ American culture. He was reported
to have died in unknown circumstances shortly afterwards, aged 27.
However, jazz and its musicians managed in difficult conditions and in different
guises. Bandleaders Tofiq Guliyev and Tofiq Ahmedov were sometimes described as
Estrada (Variety) or Popular Music bands to avoid the label. Qara Qarayev brought it into
the music school’s teaching and classical composer and conductor Niyazi (1912-84) joined
Guliyev in developing the jazz band.
Recovering from the crackdowns in the 1940s, jazz
appeared in cinemas and jazz programmes from Voice of America
were picked up on radios. The 1950s and 60s were boom times.
Among those squeezing their ears to the radio was one who was
to become the most influential jazzman of the era: Vaqif
Mustafazadeh (1940-79). A brilliant pianist, whose compositions
are still very much part of the repertoire, he is credited with
creating jazz-mugham, a fusion of two very different traditions. As
we have seen, there had long been cross-pollinations of musical
genres, whether by choice, as with Uzeyir Hajibeyov, or by force of
circumstances as jazz musicians disguised their music for reasons of personal safety. Both
mugham and jazz have space for improvisation, and the mix has been successful. Rafiq
Babayev (1937-94) was equally productive as he worked in jazz and in more popular
genres, especially with the popular singer Rashid Behbudov. His groups became a

Welcome to Azerbaijan
graduation school for many musicians who went on to carry the flame to the end of the
millennium and beyond.
Vagif’s early death of a heart attack, aged 39, is attributed by many to the pressures
he was subjected to by authorities still antagonistic to the music. Rafiq was killed on his way
to his studio by a terrorist bomb placed on a Baku metro train. Vagif plays his composition
Mart (March month) here: https://bit.ly/2vnQhMV and Rafiq sings his Alvida (Farewell) at
https://bit.ly/23xE4x1
The first Jazz Festival was in 1967 and the 1969 ‘Golden Autumn’ festival is still
recalled, but festivals were sporadic until 2002, since when they have been held every year
in Baku, attracting the likes of Herbie Hancock, Chick Corea, Al Jarreau and many other
international stars. They have also given space for young local musicians, especially pianists,
of whom Shahin Novrasli (1977- ) and Isfar Sarabski (1989- ) have since also shone at the
Montreux Festival and many others. Their concerts should certainly not be missed. Shahin
plays his version of the traditional Elinde Sazin Gurbani (I’d die for the Saz in Your Hands)
https://bit.ly/2qDAKny and Isfar plays his The Edge with tar player Shahriyar Imanov (1989-)
at https://bit.ly/2J4tlnN

Pop
Azerbaijani pop music has its origins in the post-war years when variety and classical
(opera) singers alike took folk and popular songs into their repertoire, with huge success.
Rashid Behbudov (1915-89) followed by Muslim Magomayev (1942-2008) and Polad
Bulbuloghlu (1945- ). All were highly popular, Rashid first making his name as lead in the
film of Hajibeyov’s Arshin Mal Alan and taking his rich tenor voice and ability to sing in at
least nine languages on extensive tours. Muslim’s operatic baritone was equally at home in
popular romantic songs, as can be heard in his voicing of the cartoon Bremen Musicians:
https://bit.ly/2H8DOlK Polad composed film music and wrote songs, as well as following his
father Bulbul as a singer. After a period as Minister of Culture he was appointed
ambassador to Russia in 2006.
The ‘senior’ pop generation of the new century is led by showbiz stars like Aygun
Kazimova (1971- ), Brilliant Dadashova (1965- ) and Faiq Aghayev (1971- ) and the rising
generation have kept the country on Europe’s radar with strong performances in the
Eurovision Song Contest and victory in 2011 by Ell & Nikki, Eldar Qasimov (1989- ) and
Nigar Jamal (1980- ) with the song Running Scared.
There has been a strong undercurrent of rock since the 1970s with a series of bands
forming and reforming, but only Coldunya made an impact ‘above ground’. Rap has also
attracted a fan base, with Ibrahim Ibrahimov, known as Uran (1983- ), among the leading
lights. The electronic band Dihaj have a keen following in the capital’s underground for
their ‘doom pop’, played with fine musicianship. Singer Diana Hajiyeva, trained in jazz
vocals, increased exposure when she represented Azerbaijan in Eurovision 2017. Dihaj can
be heard with Isfar Sarabski here: [https://bit.ly/2r7BFwz]

Culture and Art

Dance

Traditional dances are still popular at weddings, holidays and festivals. Western-style
disco dancing is also popular but, especially at weddings, everyone joins in at some point in
the traditional dances. As seen in the picture, the standard position for both men and
women is upright with arms held out to the side. While women express their grace with
sinuous movements of hands and arms, men’s movements are stiffer; other than held
hands, contact is rare. The lezghinka dance is a chance for the men (and occasionally
women) to show their speed and stamina as the music becomes faster and faster; often a
circle is formed and one or two men leap in, demonstrate their speed of foot for a few
minutes then return to the circle and clap in time as others take their place.
Professional dance groups are popular in concerts and at holidays like the spring
Novruz Bayram; they also bring in the traditional flaming plov (pilaf) that is served to the
bride and groom towards the end of a wedding party.
The Azerbaijan State Song and Dance Ensemble had been promoting the national
culture across the former Soviet republics and internationally since 1936 to great acclaim.
And when the great dance master, People’s Artist Alibaba Abdullayev, saw that the time
was right for Azerbaijani dance to develop new teams of teachers and dancers, the
Azerbaijan State Dance Ensemble was founded in 1970. Successful from the outset, both
domestically and abroad, the Ensemble has a repertoire that combines customs and
traditions with a wealth of folklore, music and national costumes. The many traditional
dances are equally varied: among them the ancient collective circle dance Yalli, to the
comical shepherds in Chobanlar, the energy of a dance with Nagara drums and the flowing
grace of the Uzundere.

Welcome to Azerbaijan
Cinema

Cinema came early to Azerbaijan, with

the first screenings being shown in 1898 and
Oil Gusher films made by Aleksander Mishon
were shown in Paris two years later. In the
1920s and ‘30s, early Soviet cinema was
productive and marked by films written by
playwright Jafar Jabbarly (1899-1934) regarded as
the founder of Azerbaijani screenwriting; the films Sevil
and Almaz dealt with the liberation of women from the veil and
patriarchal domination. In the 1940s and 50s Uzeyir Hajibeyov’s plays Arshin Mal Alan and
Mashadi Ibad (If Not This One, That One) were filmed; the former made a star of Rashid
Behbudov.
The 1960s are remembered for films that took on serious social issues: In a Southern
City and The Wild Kur. The 1970s saw productions of historical epics: Nesimi, Dede Qorqud
and Babek. While the interest in social themes continued with Mother-in Law’s serio-comic
take on family relationships.
The struggles of the early years of independence were the subject of The 40th Door
(2009) and psychological drama was provided by Sahe (Precinct, 2010).

Culture and Art

Architecture

There have been major additions to the country’s architecture since the Contract of
the Century began to deliver significant income from 2005. Many cityscapes have changed
dramatically, with new buildings, as well as cleaned up classical architecture. Naturally the
capital has historically been the main focus of attention, but there are many other pearls of
an architect’s inspiration dotted around the country. It should, however, be remembered
that over the centuries tectonics have removed some of the earliest examples of their work
– this is an active earthquake zone.
Baku displays the greatest variety of ages and styles – from medieval to early oil
boom, to Soviet and modern. Icheri Sheher, the old walled city, is the place to start
chronologically, with the 12th century Maiden Tower, 15th century Shirvanshahs’ Palace,
caravansarays and mosques, especially the Lezghin mosque. Also note the hamams
(bathhouses), which were strategically placed at the gates to the medieval city to
encourage visitors to wash away the dust and sweat before they made their way to the
caravansarays to rest up. There are other atmospheric working hamams, eg. Tezebey, in
the wider city, that are worth experiencing.
Also outside the walls, the oil-boom architecture was built by newly-enriched oil
magnates who sent their (often Polish) architects to Venice, Paris and other cities of choice
for inspiration – see the History Museum (Haji Zeynalabdin Taghiyev’s home), the Saadat
Sarayi (Palace of Happiness, ie. wedding palace) home of Murtuza Mukhtarov and much of
Istiqlaliyat Street, including the Ismayilli Palace (Academy of Sciences Admin) built by Musa
Naghiyev. Soviet-era architecture has a bad reputation, but many of the dullest examples
have gone and some jewels remain, for which we should mostly be grateful to architect
Mikayil Useinov (1905-92). The Nizami Literature Museum, Akhundov Library, Nizami
Cinema and the residence on the corner of Vurghun and Nizami (opposite Nesimi’s statue)
are fine examples of his work. The Dom Soviet (Government House) building opposite the
Boulevard also intrigues.

Welcome to Azerbaijan
 Other religious buildings in the capital include many mosques, Teze Pir being the
most impressive, synagogues, Orthodox churches, an Armenian church, a German Lutheran
church and a modern Roman Catholic church
As for modern architecture, must-sees include the stunning white curves of Zaha
Hadid’s Heydar Aliyev Centre, passed on the way in from the airport, and the three Flame
Towers, best seen from the Boulevard when illuminated at night.
On the Absheron Peninsula there are complete castles at Mardakan and Ramana; the
former town also has a pleasant arboretum, Dendro Park, once the summer home of
Murtuza Mukhtarov.
Elsewhere in the country, Sheki has the impressively colourful 18th century Khan’s
Palace and lower down the street a caravansaray that still operates as a hotel. In Kish
nearby, are the 12th century Caucasian Albanian church and further on the ruins of
Gelersen, Goresen castle. Near Qabala is an archaeological dig that has unearthed the gates,
foundations and pipework of the ancient city. There are three Udin churches in the nearby
village of Nij; one has been restored and brought back into use.
Chiraq Qala castle’s ruins near Siyazan also provide good views after the climb. The
synagogues in the Jewish settlement of Qirmizi Qesebe, across the river from Quba, are
impressive. The architectural solution to building a village on the sharp slope of a hillside is
intriguing and worth a visit to Khinaliq.
Ganja has Nizami’s tomb and fine city buildings, as well as the quirky bottle house.
Nakhchivan was home to 12th century architect Ajemi Nakhchivani, who was
responsible for the impressive tombs of Momine Khatun and Yusif ibn Kuseir in Nakhchivan
city. A visit to Ordubad and a wander through the back streets of courtyard houses may
bring you to an ovdan, a channelled underground stream that serves as a refrigerator as
well as source of irrigation – that is, if you’ve worked out which of the gate’s two door
knockers to use.
There are many more sights for open eyes!

Carpets

The tales we have heard of magic carpets all make sense when we stand before one
woven in Azerbaijan – this is a craft that truly developed into an art and one can only
wonder at how such intricate and tale-telling patterns emerged from this ‘cottage industry’.
The patterns vary according to region and here there are generally recognised to be eight
‘schools’ of Azerbaijani carpet: Baku, Quba, Shirvan, Ganja, Qazakh, Qarabagh, Nakhchivan
and Tabriz. Individual patterns within a school can also be named after their village of origin
or motif. The Quba carpet Pirebedil is named after a village near Shabran, while the 1539-
40 Tabriz school carpet Shaykh Safi, now in London’s Victoria and Albert Museum, was
commissioned for the shrine to the 14th century Sufi leader after whom it is named.
Carpets were made to warm the house and were as often hung on the walls as laid
on the floor. They were also woven flat weave (without a pile) and made into saddle bags,
saddle cloths and bags for grain etc. Somehow similar to the Qobustan petroglyphs, carpet
patterns often reflect the weavers’ ways of life and associated elements – the Pirebedil
motifs look very like symbolic ram’s horns and scissors – or runic symbols handed down
over the ages. Many are more abstract, but their depth of colour and patterning surely
indicates that for the weaver there is much more to a carpet than a mere floor or wall

Culture and Art

covering. Many visitors to the country are seduced by the richness, in all senses, of these
demotic works of art.

State Museum of Azerbaijan Carpet and Applied Art, Baku

Foundations

There are many NGOs, foundations and voluntary organisations in the country - too
many to list in this brief introduction - but, as examples we offer two foundations that are
having an impact both domestically and on the international stage.

The Heydar Aliyev Foundation

The foundation is the country’s leading NGO and works to support the development
of independent Azerbaijani society across the spectra of education, public health, culture,
sports, science and technology, environment and social issues. It has made major, large
scale contributions in all these areas within the country, and has also done much to raise
Azerbaijan’s social and cultural profile internationally.
Founded in 2004 and named in recognition of former president Heydar Aliyev’s
massive contribution to the establishment of a strong and stable newly-independent
Azerbaijan able to build on its social and cultural heritage, the foundation’s president is
Mehriban Aliyeva, First Vice-president of Azerbaijan and its First Lady.
[https://heydar-aliyev-foundation.org/en]

Turkic Culture and Heritage Foundation

In August 2012 a summit of the Cooperation Council of Turkic Speaking States:
Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan, the Kyrgyz Republic and Turkey, agreed to establish the Turkic
Heritage and Cultural Foundation to “protect, study and promote the Turkic culture and
heritage through supporting and funding activities, projects and programs.” The Foundation
is hosted by Azerbaijan, based in Baku and is active both within the member countries and
in cooperation with other countries to generate interest in the breadth of Turkic culture.

Welcome to Azerbaijan
Customs and Traditions
 Holidays and Commemoration Days
Below is a list of the holidays and other non-working days in Azerbaijan, some
political, some traditional and some religious. While in English ‘holiday’ can apply to any
kind of non-working day, this is not the case here. Sensitivity is required: 20 January
commemorate a tragic event in the recent past and is not referred to as a holiday. If a non-
working day falls on a Saturday or Sunday, the following weekday usually becomes a non-
working day. The religious holidays are celebrated according to the Islamic lunar calendar,
usually moving 11 days earlier year to year by the Gregorian calendar.

 1 and 2 January – New Year

 20 January – National Day of Mourning (See opposite)
 8 March – International Women’s Day
 20-24 March – Novruz Bayram. (The year’s main holiday)
 11 April – Presidential Election day (2018 only)
 9 May – Victory Day (Defeat of Fascism in 1945)
 28 May – Republic Day (Proclamation of the Azerbaijan Democratic
Republic, 1918)
 15 June – National Salvation Day (Heydar Aliyev’s return to power, 1993)
 15 and 16 June – End of Ramadan holiday (because holidays overlap, 18 and
19 June are non-working days, 2018 only)
 26 June – Armed Forces Day
 22-23 August – Qurban Bayram (Islamic Eid al-Adha, dates are for 2018
only)
 9 November – State Flag Day
 31 December – World Azerbaijanis Solidarity Day

Welcome to Azerbaijan
National Days

1 and 2 January – New Year`s Day On the night of 20 January a large

contingent of Soviet Armed Forces was sent
The New Year celebrations in Baku onto the streets of Baku and appeared in
are elaborate, with a giant New Year tree, a tanks with guns blazing. According to official
fireworks display and a late-night party on sources, 131 people died, 774 were
the central Fountains Square, featuring wounded, 400 imprisoned and four went
performances by many of the country’s missing.
celebrities, from around 9pm on 31
December into the small hours of 1 January.
It is customary to wish each other, Yeni İliniz
Mubarek! (Happy New Year!)

Massive processions buried the dead

in the hilltop park overlooking the city, the
highest spot in Baku. Since then this place
has been called Shahidlar Khiyabani
(Martyrs’ Avenue) and people mark 20
January as a National Day of Mourning.
Every year thousands of Azerbaijanis visit
the avenue and lay flowers on the graves
until they become a sea of carnations.
20 January – National Day of
Mourning
8 March – International Women`s
On 20 January 1990 Soviet troops
were ordered into Baku by Mikhail
Day
Azerbaijan adopted this day in 1917.
Gorbachev to suppress demonstrations for
The USSR first marked 8 March as a non-
independence.
working day in 1965 and, after gaining
People had been infuriated by
Armenia’s territorial claims and acts of independence, Azerbaijan continued to
celebrate it as a national holiday.
aggression against Azerbaijan, as well as by
the anti-nationalist behaviour of the local
authorities. Azerbaijanis were being
expelled from Nagorno-Karabakh and
surrounding territories, lands they had lived
on for centuries. A national movement had
been developing since 1988 in favour of
independence from the USSR, with
thousands of people protesting for days in
Azadliq (Freedom) Square and the streets of
Baku.

Customs and Traditions

 It is customary for men to the circular goghal, a savoury, flaky pastry
compliment women and present gifts filled with fennel, caraway, turmeric and
and/or flowers to women relatives, friends pepper, stands for the sun.
or colleagues as appropriate. If you are not at home on the first day
of Novruz, you won’t see your home for
seven years…
20-24 March – Novruz Bayram …and so the holiday is a time to be
home with the family. However, children
are allowed out to throw down a cap at
neighbours’ doors, knock and then hide
round a corner, returning to pick up the
cap, now filled with goodies. And there are
plenty of street events on surrounding days,
with music, dance, zorkhana ‘strongmen’,
tightrope walkers, the tale of Kosa and
Kechel’s search for a stolen chicken (find
out…) and, of course, food!
Novruz Bayram (New Day Holiday)
celebrates the arrival of spring at the Vernal
Equinox and is the main holiday in the
Azerbaijani year. It almost certainly dates
back to times when Zoroastrianism was the
prevailing religion and has survived despite
periods of official disapproval, including
Soviet-era attempts to prohibit
celebrations.
The connection with nature is
9 May – Victory Day
confirmed by the importance given to the
The sacrifices made during World
four Tuesdays prior to 20 March. These days
War II are commemorated on this day when
are celebrated successively as Water, Fire,
fascist Germany signed the act of surrender.
Air/Wind and Earth Tuesday. Each element
Azerbaijan lost some 300,000 of the
contributing in turn to revived growth and
680,000 citizens who joined the armed
blossoming. Bonfires are still lit on these
forces, and it contributed over 80% of the
days and it is a tradition to jump over the
fuel for Soviet planes. The latter was a
fire, which burns up all your accumulated
major reason for Hitler marking Baku as a
problems and purifies you for a fresh start.
vital prize. Fortunately, his forces marching
At Novruz, a laid table is even more
south ran out of fuel before they could
important than at other times. As seen in
cross the Caucasus.
the picture, a khoncha (tray) with semeni, a
plate of sprouted wheat, is central as a
symbol of new life. The semeni is
surrounded by traditional sweets: the
crescent-shaped shekerbura, pastries filled
with ground almonds, walnuts, and sugar,
represents the moon; the diamond-shaped
paklava, layered buttery pastries filled with
walnuts, sugar and cardamom and coated
with honey syrup, represents the stars and

Welcome to Azerbaijan
28 May – Republic Day 9 November – State Flag Day
On 28 May 1918, the Azerbaijan As described on p. 10 the tricolour
Democratic Republic (ADR) was proclaimed, flag was first adopted by the Azerbaijan
the first independent democratic republic Democratic Republic on 9 November 1918
throughout the Muslim East. It was a to represent the first independent state of
progressive, parliamentary republic with its Azerbaijan, with one of the ADR’s founders,
own coat of arms, anthem and flag. Mammad Amin Rasulzade investing it with a
However, ADR was destined to exist only 23 nation’s belief in independence, declaring:
months. In 1920 Bolshevik forces marched A flag once raised will never fall
in to overthrow the government and
enforce admission to what was to become
the USSR. It has been celebrated since 1990
when Azerbaijan was on its way to restored
independence. Of course celebrations were
particularly important in 2018, its centenary
year.

15 June – National Salvation Day

Azerbaijan regained its independence
in October 1991. However, the first years of Under Soviet rule other banners were
independence were troubled and chaotic. imposed, but the tricolour was raised at
Following the demise of the Soviet Union various points in protest; Jahid Hilaloghlu
the economy was in collapse and Armenia raised it on Maiden Tower on 28 May 1956,
threatened and attacked from the west. The in support of the aims of the ADR and in
government lacked strength and protest at Soviet rule. On 17 November
experience; there was a crisis of authority 1990 Heydar Aliyev ensured it was raised in
that, by summer 1993 threatened civil war. Nakhchivan and on 5 February 1991 the
On 15 June 1993 Heydar Aliyev was invited Supreme Soviet adopted it as the state flag
from Nakchivan to Baku to help resolve the of the Republic of Azerbaijan.
crisis. He was elected Chairman of the
Supreme Council of the Azerbaijan Republic 31 December – World
and later became president. History tells of
Azerbaijanis Solidarity Day
the remarkable turn around he effected in
On 31 December 1989, with the drive
the country’s fortunes.
for independence underway, people in
Nakhchivan tore down the fences
26 June – National Army Day separating them from their fellow
Once the Azerbaijan Democratic Azerbaijanis in Iran. In 1991 the day was
Republic was proclaimed in the adopted to promote and celebrate relations
circumstances of 1918, an army to defend between Azerbaijanis living in different
itself against covetous neighbours was a countries. The division of Azerbaijan in 1828
vital priority and the decision was made on between the Russian and Persian Empires
26 June 1918. As the country prepared for means that some 20 million plus
renewed independence, on 9 October 1991 Azerbaijanis live in Iran. The largest
the Supreme Council of the Azerbaijan diaspora is in Russia, but solidarity
Republic passed a law to recreate its own celebrations are held in up to 70 countries.
armed forces.

Customs and Traditions

Religious Days

Ramazan Bayram (Eid ul-Fitr) Qurban Bayram (Eid el-Adha)

Ramadan is the ninth month of the A religious festival celebrated
Islamic calendar and is a period of fasting across the Muslim world, Qurban
(oruj) during daylight hours to (sacrifice) commemorates the test of
commemorate the revelation in this faith in which Ibrahim (biblical Abraham)
month of the Qur’an to Prophet was asked to sacrifice his son Ismayil
Muhammad. Eid ul-Fitr is a festival on the (biblical Isaac) to God. At the last
first day of the following Islamic month of moment, Ibrahim’s hand was stayed and
Shawwal and marks the end of the fast. a goat was sacrificed instead.
Many, but not all, Azerbaijani Muslims The tradition is that meat from the
keep the fast and will not eat or drink sheep (usually) sacrificed at this holiday is
between sunrise and sunset. During divided between people in need, relatives
Ramadan it is a mark of respect to host and close family.
an iftar (the first meal after sunset) for
someone who is fasting.

Family Traditions

Weddings
The family tends to be a stronger unit in Azerbaijan than in many western cultures
and the significant stages in anyone’s life are an affair for relatives far and near. Parents
constantly have their children’s future in mind and, while women are increasingly more
present and active at work and in society, a good marriage for their children of both sexes,
but especially girls, is still a very significant priority for most mothers. Visits to the public
hamam (bathhouse) were once opportunities for women to spy out potential matches for
their own, or a friend’s, son. Their husbands, meanwhile, might seek contact with good,
ranking business acquaintances who had an eligible son or daughter – an eventual match
would enhance their own family’s status. Elements of this approach still exist, albeit
conducted over coffee rather than a soak and with their offspring demanding more of a say
in matters of their matrimony, and much of the ceremony remains.
Girls are still expected to preserve their virtue until marriage and are generally under
the watchful eyes of extended families. Whenever serious interest arises in a potential
match, women from the boy’s family are expected to visit to introduce themselves to the

Welcome to Azerbaijan
girl’s family. If all goes well then it’s the turn of
the men from the families, with a few close
relatives, to meet and the boy’s family formally
asks for the girl for their son. It is generally
expected at this stage that the boy’s family can
provide the home in which they will live. The
girl’s family is responsible for furnishing it.
If everyone, including the girl, agrees then
the boy’s family again visits for a s mall ‘Hari’
(yes) party, this time bringing a ring, a shawl or
scarf and some sweets for the girl; the ring is placed on her finger, the shawl around her
shoulder and sweet tea (for agreement and harmony) is drunk.
The formal engagement follows later. The girl’s family arranges the party, usually
with a meal in a restaurant, for members of both families. The boy’s family brings a full set
of clothes for the girl and also a khoncha (tray, as on the Novruz table) with smaller gifts
and engagement rings are exchanged.
The date of the wedding is discussed and decided; sometimes there are two
weddings: first one organised by the girl’s family, with some of the boy’s family invited,
followed by the boy’s wedding, with some of the girl’s family invited. Nowadays, there is
usually just one, joint wedding.
Shortly before the wedding the girl has her all-women henna party, usually held in a
restaurant where the bride’s hands are ‘painted’ with patterns in henna and there is singing
and dancing. The boy may visit briefly with more gifts. The boy also has a party (all men) in
a restaurant.
On the day of the wedding, the boy goes to pick up the girl from her home. He is
accompanied by a group of musicians: typically, a clarinet, accordion and naghara, with a
zurna – a loud, high pitched, piercing woodwind instrument – to play Vagzali, the lively
melody traditional for such occasions.
In the cities, weddings are held in one of the many glitzy wedding halls. They are big
events, with invitations going to the extended families, and the wide circle of friends and
colleagues. Guests do not usually bring gifts, they place money in envelopes into boxes at
the wedding – this covers the cost of the wedding party. The bride and groom arrive after
the guests and sit at a raised table, which is visited in turn by guests for photographs with
the couple. A lengthy meal of several courses is interspersed through the evening with
(loud) professional singers, dancing and speeches. The final courses include plov (pilaf) –
the couple’s flaming plov brought in by ceremonial dancers – and cake with tea.

Funerals
By Muslim tradition, the dead must be
buried before sunset, either on the same or the
following day. On the day of the burial relatives
and friends of both sexes may assemble
around the home from which the body will be
taken, however only men accompany the body
to the cemetery. Condolences are offered to
the bereaved with the expression “Allah
Rehmet Elesin”, (May God accept his/ her
soul). On the third and seventh day afterwards,

Customs and Traditions

people gather in a marquee or mosque where prayers are said for the departed; men and
women attend at different times. Visitors are offered tea and sweets as well as a special
funeral dish (halva), made from flour, sugar, and butter. It is usual to taste it as a mark of
remembrance. Visitors are not expected to offer gifts, but many will take tea, sugar etc. as a
gesture to offset expenses. On each Thursday afterwards, people visit the family of the
deceased at home. This continues until the 40th day, when there is a final gathering in a
mosque or marquee. Women visit the grave after the 40th day, with heads covered; by this
time a gravestone, often illustrated with an engraving of the deceased, is in place. For
mourning, an even number of flowers, usually carnations, is laid on the grave.
Christian and Jewish families, of course, follow their own traditions.

Welcome to Azerbaijan
Way of Life
 Family Life and Traditions
The family is still the foundation of
Azerbaijani society – and family really is an
extended network, such that there are different
names for maternal and paternal relatives. For
example, your bibi (aunt) is your father’s sister,
while your khala (aunt) is your mother’s sister.
Especially in rural areas, a group of houses may in
effect be a family compound. City life in
multistorey apartments, of course, tends to work
against this, but family ties remain very strong,
and newlyweds often buy an apartment close to their parents or begin life together with
the husband’s parents. Grandparents have a strong and proud interest in the family line
being continued, reminding the new couple of their responsibility in this direction, and are
keen to share in the upbringing of their grandchildren. Young children are adored and
treated with great affection by all relatives, and even well-meaning strangers may offer
children a kiss and cuddle, for example as they help a mother get them on a bus.
Such family closeness ensures that there is always a firm network of support in times
of trouble, but it can sometimes create sparks between strong personalities; thus the
popularity of the 1978 film Qayinana (Mother-in-Law), in which a young newlywed stands
up to her mother- in-law’s traditional ways, often to comical effect.
In general, there is a great respect for age and seniority. Elder men (agh saqqal –
white beards) are often deferred to when decisions are to be made. Younger men will often
give up a seat on a bus to an elder man, as well as to a woman.
Azerbaijanis are house-proud; homes are kept immaculately clean and as well-
ornamented as possible, palatial if funds run to that, while the exteriors (of older
apartment blocks) may still be less prepossessing due to the lack of Soviet-era maintenance
staff. Homes in villages may be older in style, with carpets and cushions more prominent in
the décor, and are the cosier and homelier for that.

Hospitality
As strong as the belief in the family here, is the tradition of
hospitality. The guest really is king (or queen) in an Azerbaijani
home; a foreign guest even more so, if that is possible. Everything
possible will be done to make sure the guest is well looked after.
Visitors to a family usually take a token gift – flowers (always
an odd number – even numbers are for funerals), chocolates or, if
they are sure the host drinks, vodka (for a man) or wine. Most
Azerbaijanis wear indoor slippers rather than shoes in their home,
and guests normally remove their shoes once inside and put on
the slippers offered.
When men meet for the first time that day they will shake hands; close friends will
kiss (touch) on both cheeks. The usual greeting among Azerbaijanis is “Salaam Aleykum”
(Peace be with you) and the reply “Wa Aleykum Salaam” (And peace be with you). Women
will also kiss both cheeks. A man meeting a woman for the first time may shake her hand if
she offers it (more likely in a city than a village, where women are likely to be more
reserved). The formal address to a woman is by her first name and khanum – eg. “Sevda

Welcome to Azerbaijan
khanum” (Mrs Sevda). For a man use bey (mister) or for an academic/professional muellim
(literally: teacher) – “Elchin bey” or “Elchin muellim”.
A guest will always be served tea with sweets or pastries, usually in an armudu (pear-
shaped) glass with lemon, not milk; if the visit is for a meal then it is likely to be over several
courses and filling, and interspersed with several toasts. A response by the guest with
thanks for the meal and hospitality will be much appreciated, as will the sight of the food
being enjoyed to the full. The host will often select the choice cuts of meat etc. and put
them on the guest’s plate. The sharing of food is very natural. Even in an informal
environment people will not eat alone, i.e. they will share the food they have with anyone
in their company.
Curiosity is another tradition and questions can be searching, as Azerbaijanis want to
know all about a new friend and the country they’re from.
Hospitality also extends beyond the home. There is seldom sharing of a bill in a café
or restaurant, and it is a matter of honour for the inviter to pay.
Given this hospitality the best advice to a visitor is to be aware of the tradition and
accept it in the spirit offered, but to be aware of the host’s position and not to exploit the
tradition.

Summertime, and the living….

In summer Baku’s streets become a little easier to
negotiate, as children don’t have to be driven to school and
many families depart to their bagh (Azerbaijani) or dacha
(Russian) their summer house, usually on the Absheron
Peninsula and close to the sea. Any visitor invited to one is
advised to accept for a truly relaxing experience. Bagh literally
means garden and most will have an orchard, great or small,
with trees: fig, mulberry, pomegranate, pear, peach and
perhaps a vine, as shade from the heat while the host fires up the samovar for tea and grills
marinated lamb on skewers over a mangal (charcoal barbecue). For afters, chill out with a
healthy slice of sweet watermelon. Equally delightful is a bagh out in the countryside calm.

Dress
Especially in the capital, dress has become much less
formal than it was even 10 years ago, but business still usually
demands a suit and tie for men and formal dress for women.
Western influence is ever more present, but the emphasis here is
still to look smart, even in casual dress. The centre of Baku can
resemble a fashion parade at times in spring and summer with
some daring designs.
Outside the major cities, customs are more conservative,
especially in women’s dress, and visitors should bear this in mind
when travelling to the regions. There is great acceptance that
foreigners have their own rules, but they too should have due
regard for the customs of the people who are hosting them. In
certain places: mosques, cemeteries etc. all women may be
asked to cover their hair (scarves are often provided), and short skirts or bare arms will be
seen as showing lack of respect. Shorts for men are a relatively recent sight outside a beach
or bagh (summer house) and again would not be welcome in a mosque.

Way of Life
 Colourful traditional dress appears at the Novruz holiday in particular, and at festivals
and concerts by mugham and ashiq singers, as well as in theatre productions. Items still to
be seen on winter streets include the papaq, a circular, tightly-curled lamb’s wool hat worn
by agh saqqals, some mugham singers and players of chovgan (see Sports). For women the
traditional kelaghayi, a patterned silk scarf, is making a fashionable comeback. Sheki still
produces the silk and makes the scarves too; the village of Basqal is another traditional
source of these beautiful handcrafted adornments. Traditional items are sold in Baku’s
Icheri Sheher and many of the regional towns. Popular items with tourists – at least for a
selfie or two – are the shaggy wool shepherds’ hats, perfect for a long winter’s day vigil
with the flock (see p.93).

Work, time
The centrality of the family makes many demands, and both men and women are
driven to provide. The man is still regarded as the main breadwinner in most families, but
many women work too, as well as having prime responsibility for maintenance of home and
children. Thus there is a strong work ethic, a determination to find some way to earn a
living. Occasionally this can mean a resort to the unorthodox and, as with people
everywhere, once a position is attained some will rest content, but most work hard.
Azerbaijani time, however, can be a puzzle to some visitors; it is more elastic than in
other parts of the world, and matters fairly often arise that become a higher priority than
the hands or digits of a clock. On the way to an appointment, for example, a chance
encounter with a friend may delay arrival, as it would be unforgiveable to pass by without a
sociable exchange of information about life, the family and even work. The same applies to
phone calls: “I’m busy, I’ll call back later” is not commonly heard unless in the presence of a
respected superior. However, long working days, and six-day weeks are not uncommon.
With this qualification, office hours are generally 9am-6pm. Shops work from 10am-
8pm or later, seven days a week.

Superstitions
As mentioned earlier, most Azerbaijanis take a relaxed approach to religion and some
daily practices and beliefs, like Novruz, the main holiday, have pre-Islamic origins. A blue
‘Evil Eye’ pendant and a sprig of camel thorn are to be found in many a home and car –
both ward off a bringer of bad fortune. Just in case they fail, an occasional wafting of the
smoke from smouldering rue seeds will do the trick. Someone thought to be possibly in
danger may have the smoke wafted over their head.
Never shake hands across the threshold of a door, an argument is sure to follow. If
your foot accidentally touches another’s foot, then you should touch their arm to avoid the
argument that could ensue.
Leftover bread should not be thrown out with the rubbish. It should be placed on a
raised surface above the ground. If bread is accidentally dropped, it should be picked up,
kissed and placed on a high surface. This may come from the Zoroastrian belief in the
sanctity of the Earth, such that in ancient times a dead body would be left on a raised rock,
not buried in the ground.
Waiting too long for a bus or a friend to turn up? Then tie knots in a piece of thread
or a tassle on your scarf; this twists the Devil’s tail, he releases his grip on whatever you are
waiting for and your bus or friend will arrive.
Someone leaving on a long trip will have water thrown after them, so that their
journey flows as smoothly.

Welcome to Azerbaijan
Sport and Leisure
 Sport

Traditionally, sports of combat and strength have been

popular; zorkhana sports centres in which men developed
their strength and courage date back to at least the 16th
century (see https://bit.ly/2HTvbv2) and freestyle wrestling is
still keenly followed. The stories in The Book of Dede Qorqud
have many descriptions of sporting contests – and women are
as active as men.
However, these days football and volleyball have the
largest fan bases; gymnastics and the eastern martial arts are
developing rapidly. The sports centres built around the
country, as well as the Olympic stadium and other facilities
built for the 1st European Games in 2015 and the Islamic
Solidarity Games in 2017 have helped to generate greater interest in recreational swimming
and jogging. Health and fitness centres are also increasingly popular among young women.
Horse racing, chovgan and polo attract enthusiastic audiences.
Other major sports events held in Baku include the annual Formula 1, the first race
held in 2016. The capital will host three group games and one quarter-final in the UEFA
EURO 2020 football championship.
There are arguments about whether chess is a sport, but it is recognized as such by
the International Olympic Committee, and it is certainly popular here and many children
attend chess centres. Former World Chess Champion Gary Kasparov, rated by some as the
greatest player of all time, learned the game in Baku. In April 2018, Shakhriyar Mamedyarov
was second in the FIDE world rankings.
While traditional zorkhana only emerges into public view during Novruz and other
festivals, Azerbaijan continues to enjoy success on the world stage in combat sports, the
country’s boxers winning six of the 10 gold medals available at the 1st European Games held
in Baku in 2015. Another gold medallist there was Ilham Zakiyev, a Paralympic heavyweight
judoka, he is a double Olympic champion. Blinded at 19 by a sniper’s bullet that went
through both temples while he was on reconnaissance near the contact line with occupied
Fuzuli, he turned his life around by concentrating on the sport.
Football probably owes its origins here to the influx of foreign personnel eager to
cash in on the oil boom of the early
20th century. During the Soviet era,
Neftchi (Oilman) established
themselves in the strong USSR
championship and ended the 1966
season in 3rd place. One of their key
strikers was Anatoliy Banishevsky and
that summer he played for the USSR
national team that came 4th in the
World Cup in the UK. The winners
that year were England after a
dramatic final against West Germany Baku Olympic Stadium
in which the hosts’ crucial and

Welcome to Azerbaijan
contested third goal was awarded by linesman Tofiq Bahramov,
from Azerbaijan.
In recent years, Qarabag have come to the fore. Originally
from Aghdam, a city that now lies in ruins under Armenian
occupation, the team has come to represent the hopes of the
million people also expelled from their homeland. In the 2017-18
season they reached the group stage of the Champions League
competition and thrilled huge crowds in close games with Roma
and Atletico Madrid. Local rivals Qabala made headlines when
they brought in former Arsenal and England captain Tony Adams
as coach. Recent successes have encouraged clubs to develop
football academies, so fans expect more.
The two ski resorts are also providing an alternative way to
enjoy the winters. Surprising for some, perhaps, but recall that the
Caucasus mountains run along the northern border, and that’s
where to find Shahdagh, near Quba in the north-east, and Tufandagh, in Qabala, further to
the west.
A less familiar sport for visitors is chovgan, and this precursor of polo – a little
tougher and more exciting than the game played by princes – is well worth seeing. There
are annual competitions in May/June and December between teams from the various
regions. The Arena Polo World Cup and other international polo competitions are also
played here in June.

Sport and Leisure

To see and do

For most visitors to the country, Baku is the first port of call, and there is plenty to fill
their time. The architecture, from medieval to ultra-modern is stunning. A chronological
trip would take in first the old walled inner city, Icheri Sheher, with its mix of bathhouses,
mosques and monuments: atmospheric caravansarays, Maiden Tower and the
Shirvanshahs’ Palace. Around the city’s central Fountains Square are the buildings that
housed the oil barons of the early 20th century as well as the solid classicism of the Soviet
era. Alongside the airport road curves the hugely impressive Heydar Aliyev Centre, possibly
even more jaw-dropping inside. At night the illuminations on the three Flame Towers and
other buildings, ensure that an evening stroll along the Bulvar (boulevard) next to the
Caspian Sea is a delight. Theatres abound: Puppets, Drama – Azerbaijani and Russian,
Musical Comedy, Opera & Ballet. Restaurants for every international taste; clubs, coffee
shops and bars; art galleries and museums. Traditional music at the Mugham Centre,
classical music at the Philharmonia, rock and electro in downstairs joints.
For beaches, head out south to Shikhov for western-style beach facilities, pools and
bars; head to the northern coast of the beaky Absheron Peninsula for less developed
beaches with local families and better sea (also with some large, outdoor-concert-holding
resorts). The peninsula is where many Bakuvians have their bagh (summer house); the
Surakhani Ateshgah (fire temple) and Yanar Dagh (burning mountain) – a naturally flaming
hillside – are also within an hour’s drive of the city.
Venturing some 60km south of the capital will take you to the Stone Age cave
petroglyphs at Qobustan and, just a little further, to the moonscape of bubbling mud
volcanoes. Both are well worth visiting.
Head north towards Quba for the Shahdagh ski resort, the Jewish settlement of
Qirmizi Qesebe and, in autumn, the area’s fruit. On and into the foothills of the Caucasus
for the unique hilltop shepherding village of Khinaliq (summer only), where walking out of
one house takes you onto the roof of a lower one and the people speak a language not
heard anywhere else.
The road west passes the old capital of Shamakhi and its observatory at Pirguli, past
Basqal and its silk kelagayi scarves; Lahij, with its scary cliffside entrance road and
traditional copper workshops. Stop for tea at one of the open-air teahouses in the scenic
roadside forests above Aghsu and Goychay (pomegranate-land).
You could turn off at Ismayilli to Ivanovka, stronghold of the Russian religious
dissident Molokans and taste their honey, cheese and wine. Or head on to Qabala, for
winter skiing or the free, open-air midsummer classical music festival
[https://www.gabalamusicfestival.com], or the Udi village of Nij, or excavations of the old
city.
On again to Sheki, where must do’s include visiting the Sheki Khan’s Palace, the
Caravansaray and tasting piti (a meat dish speciality cooked in a clay pot) and Sheki halva
(very sweet). Visit the nearby village of Kish with its untouched air and Albanian church.
For one-upmanship visit the exclave of Nakhchivan (by air) – a landscape
photographer’s dreamworld – the jagged Ilan Dag (snake mountain) – the cleft in its peak
caused by Noah’s Ark as the waters receded – they say. The southern road along the Araz
river (the border with Iran) to Ordubad, home of the world’s most aromatic lemons, is
impossibly photogenic.

Welcome to Azerbaijan
 Lake Goygol, past Ganja, was long a hidden natural treasure, but no more – and stop
off at the mausoleum of the great poet Nizami on the way.
Head south from Baku to the Shirvan Park to view the gazelles. Further towards
Lenkeran and the border town of Astara for some good beaches, the ancient Hirkan forest
(home to Caucasian leopards and ironwood) and tea and citrus plantations before turning
into the scenic Talysh mountains.
Wherever you go, keep eyes and ears open for the many smaller wonders and foibles
of a fascinating land.

Welcome to Azerbaijan
 CONTENTS

Foreword …………………………………………………………………………… 5
Preface…………………………………………………………………………… 6
The Republic of Azerbaijan……………………………………………… 10
Unit I. Geography……………… ………….………………………………….. 15
Unit II. History…………..…………………………………….................... 23
Unit III. Political Structure …………………………………….............. 39
Unit IV. Economy …………………………………………….................. 47
Unit V. Education ………………………………………………………………. 55
Unit VI. Religion…………………………………………………………………. 59
Unit VII. Culture and Art …………………………………………………… 65
Unit VIII. Customs and Traditions ………………………............... 83
Unit IX. Ways of Life …………………………….............................. 91
Unit X. Sport and Leisure ………………………………………………… 95
To see and do…………………………………………………………………. 98

*** *** ***

The book is printed in the Mutarjim Publishing-Printing Center

It is signed to the press: 14.11.2018. Baku, Azerbaijan

Format: 84x108 1/16. Headset: Calibri.
Volume: 8,25 c.pr.sh. Printing: 100. Order number: 280.

"Mutarjim" Publishing-Polygraphic Centre

Baku, Rasul Rza street., 125/39b
Tel./faks (+994) 12 596 21 44
e-mail: mutarjim@mail.ru

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Az 1014, Bakı, Rəsul Rza küç., 125/139b

Tel./faks 596 21 44; (055) 715 63 99
e-mail: mutarjim@mail.ru
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