SUMMER TEXTILE INTERNSHIP 2 WEEKS

WFB BAIRD & COMPANY LTD., COCHIN, KERALA

AMRITHA S
(BFT/16/1781)
AYSHU SAKKIR HUSSAIN
(BFT/16
SWATHI KRISHNA M.K
(BFT/16/1007)

Department of Fashion Technology , 2016-20

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Kannur
June 21,2018 to July 7,2018
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 CERTIFICATE

This is to certify that this internship report titled, ‘Summer Textile Internship Report’ is

based on our , Amritha S & BFT/16/1781,Ayshu Sakkir Hussain & BFT/16/ ,Swathi

Krishna M.K BFT/16/ 1007 , original research work, carried out impartial fulfilment of the

requirement for award of the Bachelor’s Degree in Fashion Technology (Apparel

Production), at National Institute of Fashion Technology ,Kannur.

Signature of Course Coordinator Signature of mentor

Date :

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 ACKNOWLEDGMENT

“Hard work is the first stepping stone to success”

No work can be a success without dedication and toil.

Our internship report could not have been a success without the help, guidance and valuable

direction of some very important people.

Special thanks to the HR, Ms. Anitha Menon who gave us the opportunity to do internship at

WFB Baird and guided us throughout our journey of internship. I would like to express our

deepest gratitude towards her for her undying support and guidance.

We would like to thank our Course Coordinator, Mr. Rajesh Kumar Jha for giving us this

opportunity.

We would also like to express our gratitude towards our mentor , Mr. Chandramouli N who

guided us.

I would like to thank the authority of WFB BAIRD & COMPANY INDIA PVT.LTD .

Special thanks to all the workers of wfb baird for their patience and cooperation.

Without the help of above mentioned, the internship could not have attained a successful

completion.

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 INDEX

CHAPTER TITLE PAGE.NO

NO
1 Introduction and company overview 8
1.1 Introduction 9
1.2 Objectives 9
1.3 Process flow 9
1.4 About the company 10
1.5 History 9
1.6 Business 9
1.6.1 WFB Linen 9
1.6.2 Burgoyne 10
1.6.3 Burgoyne Ireland 10
1.7 Clients 10
1.8 Organizational Structure 13
1.9 Plant Layout 14
1.10 Product Range 15
1.11 Customer focus 15
1.12 Human Resources 15
2 Design and Sampling department 17
2.1 Role of designers 18
2.2 Process flow chart 18
2.3 Sampling 19
2.4 Sample warping 19
3 Merchandising department 20
3.1 The merchandising team 21
3.2 Payment and costing 21
3.3 Process flow chart 22
4 Production and Weaving department 23
4.1 Production 24
4.2 Lead time 24
4.3 Winding 24
4.3.1 Autoconer 24
4.4 Preparatory for warp yarns 24
4.5 Warping 25
4.6 Sizing 25
4.7 Drawing and denting 26
4.8 Weaving 27
4.9 Weaving loom motions 28
4.9.1 Primary loom motions 28
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 4.9.2 Secondary loom motions 29
4.9.3 Auxiliary motions 29
4.10 Important parts of the loom 30
4.11 Weaving defects 31
5 Dyeing department 33
5.1 Yarn dyeing 34
5.1.2 Package dyeing machine 35
5.1.3 Process flowchart 36
5.1.4 Hydroextractor 38
5.1.5 Re-winding section of yarn dyeing 38
5.2 Dyes used in the industry 40
5.3 Fabric dyeing 41
5.3.1 Optimizing of continuous dyeing process 41
5.3.2 Methods of reactive dyeing 42
5.3.3 Methods of vat dyeing 45
6 Processing and finishing department
6.1 Processing
6.2 Singeing
6.3 Desizing
6.4 Scouring
6.5 Bleaching
6.6 Calendering
6.7 Stenter
6.8 Sanforization
7 Inspection and Quality assurance department
7.1 Folding and Inspection
7.1.1 Roll winding
7.2 Four point system
7.3 Product qualities
7.4 Defects / Faults
7.5 The quality assurance team
7.6 Testing lab
8 Sustainable measures
8.1 Sustainable measures adopted
8.2 ETP
8.2.1 Need of ETP
9 Suggestions and conclusions
9.1 Suggestions
9.2 Conclusion

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 LIST OF TABLES

Table 1 Capacities of Kiers ............................................................................................................................ 41

Table 2 Temperature of each wash in CPB ..................................................................................................... 52
Table 3 Temperature of each wash in PDPS ................................................................................................... 53
Table 4 Temperature of each wash in pad thermofix .................................................................................... 54
Table 5 Four point system .............................................................................................................................. 68
Table 6 Fabric grading .................................................................................................................................... 69

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 LIST OF FIGURES

Figure 1 WFB BAIRD ....................................................................................................................................... 13

Figure 2 WFB LINEN ........................................................................................................................................ 16
Figure 3 BURGOYNE ....................................................................................................................................... 16
Figure 4 BURGOYNE IRELAND ........................................................................................................................ 16
Figure 5 Organisational structure ................................................................................................................... 18
Figure 6 Plant layout ...................................................................................................................................... 19
Figure 7 Design department process flow chart ............................................................................................ 23
Figure 8 Process flow chart of merchandising department ........................................................................... 27
Figure 9 Drawing and denting ........................................................................................................................ 32
Figure 10 Process flow chart in weaving ........................................................................................................ 33
Figure 11 Package dyeing ............................................................................................................................... 42
Figure 12 Process flow for cold pad batch dyeing .......................................................................................... 52
Figure 13 Process flow chart for pad dry pad steam dyeing .......................................................................... 53
Figure 14 Process flow for pad thermofix ...................................................................................................... 54
Figure 15 Process flow chart for vat dyeing ................................................................................................... 56
Figure 16 Process flow chart for scouring ...................................................................................................... 62

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 CHAPTER 1

INTRODUCTION AND COMPANY

OVERVIEW

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1.1 INTRODUCTION

WFB Baird India manufacturing 100% linen fabrics, supplies to the biggest names in the domestic apparel

industry of India. It has also expanded its production to linen cotton blends to meet the supplier

requirements in changing times. The linen yarn is imported from China- Yixing Sunshine to its

manufacturing units in Cochin and Erode. The company’s line of business includes the manufacturing of

textile goods, including linen goods, felt goods, padding and upholstery filling. A spinning unit has been

planned in Erode in an experimental basis, but the company still feels that the cost of production is lesser

in China for spinning.

Our first step was to learn about the profile of the company and their basic dealings. We further dealt with

the way the company handles the raw material and sends it through to subsequent stages of manufacturing.

We were to learn about the various stages in the entire process of textile manufacturing, the importance of

each of these stages, the machinery features, machine and material process parameters available in detail

in the areas of Weaving, Dyeing, Finishing, Textile testing and quality control.

1.2 OBJECTIVES

The objective of our textile internship at WFB , was to understand the concept of grey fabric production,

dyeing and their quality aspects both technical as well as for commercial purposes. Our first step was to

learn about the profile of the company and their basic dealings. We further dealt with the way the

company handles the raw material and sends it through to subsequent stages of manufacturing. We were

to learn about the various stages in the entire process of textile manufacturing, the importance of each of

these stages, the machinery features, machine and material process parameters.

1.3 PROCESS FLOW

The process flow at WFB Baird and Company Private Limited :

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● Sampling: Producing the samples for customers according to the designs created by WFB or demanded by

the customers

● Order confirmation

● Yarn Sourcing: Linen Yarn are imported from China

● Yarn Dyeing: Colouring the yarn needed for yarn dyed fabrics

● Preparatory Process: Winding and Warping of yarns for weaving, sizing is done for cotton yarns

● Weaving: Interlacement of warp and weft yarns to form fabric

● Grey Inspection: Inspection of woven fabric for defects before finishing

● Processing and finishing: Includes Desizing of Cotton blends, Scouring, Bleaching and Sanforization.

● Inspection: For finished fabrics

● Quality Assurance: Testing the physical and chemical features of the fabric

● Dispatch: Delivering the finished order to the buyer

1.4 ABOUT THE COMPANY

Figure 1 WFB BAIRD

Established in the year 1912 at Union Street, Lurgan, Northern Ireland, the parent company is

called WFB Baird & Company Ltd. named after the founder William Frederick Burgoyne Baird.

WFB Baird & Co. Ltd. with manufacturing units in Ireland, India, and Poland, is one of the world’s

oldest and largest Linen manufacturing companies supplying Irish Linen to major high-end designers,

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brands, and retailers in USA, Europe and Asia including India. WFB Baird came to India in 2005 and

set up its first plant in the Cochin “Special Economic Zone” (CSEZ). WFB Baird India manufacturing

100% linen fabrics, supplies to the biggest names in the domestic apparel industry of India. Over the

years, WFB has expanded its operations in India and currently has manufacturing facilities in Cochin,

Kerala, and Erode (VIjayamangalam & SIPCOT), Tamil Nadu.

The company offers linen specific finishes like pre-shrunk, non-mercerised, tumbled and easy care

among many other customer specific special finishes. The company is equipped with high speed

Dornier (plain and dobby) looms, continuous dye line, in-house yarn dyeing and new generation

processing machinery to finish fabric.

The main building of the company consists of office, factory including processing department, yarn

dyeing department, finishing department, physical and chemical testing labs, inspection area, Quality

assurance department and packaging.

Another building consists of preparatory process, weaving and sampling department, warehouse I for

yarns, Warehouse II for fabrics and canteen facility for all employees.

The company has an installed capacity to produce 9 million yards Linen fabric and process 12 million

yards per annum.

Industry: Apparel & Textile Products

Sub-Industry: Textile & Textile Products

Website - http://www.burgoyne.co

Headquarters - Kochi, Kerala

Year Founded - 1912

Company Type - Privately Held

Size- 51-200 employees

Specialties - Linen, Linen blended Fabrics

Corporate Information

Address:
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Plot No.45, Cochin Special Economic Zone,

Kalamassery, 682037, India

Phone: 0091-48442191

Fax: 0091-48442191

1.5 HISTORY

• 1912- WFB Baird setup his first linen mill, whose products where meant primarily for handkerchief trade.

• 1914- The company started producing linen canvas for World war army and fabrics for parachutes.

• 1962- The company was taken over by Frederick William Baird .The Company started producing Linen

shirts and blouses with Armani in Italy and Hamilton Adams in New York.

• 1988- Hugh and James Baird partnered with Peter McNutt and setup the brand Baird-McNutt

• 2005-The company setup its manufacturing unit in India

• 2009-The company started supplying its fabrics to domestic apparel industry-Arvind Mills an Blackberry

• 2010-First retail store was launched in Cochin

• 2015-Joshua Baird Burgoyne started a new division-“Burgoyne Ireland”- readymade shirts for men.

• 2016-The company launched Superwhite™, the whitest linen fabric which retains its whiteness after 20

washes. Rahul Khanna became the face of Burgoyne in India.

1.6 BUSINESS

1.6.1 WFB Linen is a cherished fabric brand from the House of Burgoyne, one of the world’s largest

manufacturers of heritage linen. They manufacture and supply 100% linen and linen blends to global

fashion brands

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Figure 2 WFB LINEN

1.6.2 BURGOYNE, positioned as “The Original Linen”, represents a fashion sense which is indulgent,

individualistic and very modern. Its design range includes Super Whites, the world’s whitest fabric

to light pastels, bright and vibrant shades. It is available in Plains, Textures, Checks, Stripes and

Prints. It also offers beautiful blends with Cotton, Silk and Wool. These fabrics can be used from

casual wear to formal wear such as Jacket, Suits and even traditional ceremonial wear.

Figure 3 BURGOYNE

1.6.3 BURGOYNE IRELAND started as an exclusive retail destination for Burgoyne products. And is

the destination of iconic linen shirt. Presently they have one exclusive outlet in center square mall,

MG road, Kochi.

Figure 4 BURGOYNE IRELAND

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1.7 CLIENTS

i. Marks and Spencer

ii. Blackberrys

iii. Louis Philippe

iv. Van Heusen

v. Fab India

vi. Color plus

vii. Indian Terrain

viii. Raymond

ix. LL Bean

x. Polo Ralph Loren

xi. Dillard’s

xii. Giorgio Armani

xiii. Marco Polo

xiv. Brooks Brothers

xv. Men’s wear house

xvi. Abercrombie and Fitch

xvii. Tommy Banana Global Sourcing Ltd

xviii. Talbots

xix. J Jill

xx. Landsend

xxi. Mavi

xxii. Mulberry

xxiii. J Crew

xxiv. Monsoon accessorize Ltd

xxv. Eileen Fisher

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 xxvi. Chicos

xxvii. Dockers

xxviii. Calvin Klien

xxix. Allen Solly

xxx. Bonobos

xxxi. Arvind

1.8 ORGANISATIONAL STRUCTURE

Figure 5 Organisational structure

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1.9 PLANT LAYOUT

Figure 6 Plant layout

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1.10 PRODUCT RANGE

I. 100% Linen

• Shirting - 40 to 130 lea

Cost - Rs 540 to 2800 per meter

Weight - 100 to 170 gsm

• Suiting - 25 to 70 lea

Cost - Rs 600 to 1700 per meter

Weight - 170 to 230 gsm

• Furnishings

Weight - 89 to 300 gsm

II. Cotton-Linen

• Shirting - 40s x 40 lea

Cost - Rs 350 to 750 per meter

1.11 CUSTOMER FOCUS

At WFB, each customer is special and a constant source of inspiration. Therefore, the Group has leveraged

technology to develop a highly sensitive response system for addressing customer needs. A high-tech in-

house sampling unit and a design unit enable WFB to provide customers with the most innovative products.

WFB has also implemented Enterprise Resource Planning (ERP) System to provide facilities.

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1.12 HUMAN RESOURCES

The human resource development at WFB is aimed at enabling people discover their true potential.

The company endeavors to provide opportunities to experiment with a strong culture built around talent,

team work, competitive spirit, continuous learning, trust and transparency. The well-designed system of

knowledge dissemination across various levels ensures access to intellectual capital. The knowledge bank

facilitates individual growth and excellence. WFB believes that winning leaders are teachers and winning

organizations always encourage and reward teaching. The business processes, organizational structure and

day to day operating mechanism promote teaching for developing a stream of young leaders.

The caliber and professionalism of its people has helped WFB achieve and maintain its leadership in the

competitive environment of today. The Group has initiated a number of human resource development

processes to facilitate consistent improvement in performance, productivity and effectiveness.

WFB believes in continuous learning and adapting to change as a way of life. Preparing for transformation,

the Group has designed elaborate training and development programs that encompass the technical,

managerial, behavioral and spiritual growth of its employees

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 CHAPTER 2

DESIGN AND SAMPLING

DEPARTMENT

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2.1 ROLE OF DESIGNERS

There are countless styles, each of which has its own distinctive characteristics and most of which have

been created by designers and only by them. Designers need to be aware of the trends and travelling

provides them with opportunities to interpret their customer needs. A designer creates and arranges

garments and accessories in such a way that they are visually pleasing as well as functional.

The design team is led by senior manager in design and development, Mr Venu M R.

The department also consists of designers including exclusive print designers for Burgoyne, one for

readymade garment category (RMG) and another for exports of WFB linen.

The Burgoyne has conference 3 times a year with the dealers for the selection and order placement held

at different countries.The software used by the department are TexCad, Fabrica and SAP.

2.2 PROCESS FLOW CHART

Forecast themes

Design
development

Sampling

Quality assurance

Sample cards

Dealers

Order placement

Production

Quality assurance

Dispatch

Figure 7 Design department process flow chart

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2.3 SAMPLING

Sampling determines the approval of future orders from buyers and fetches business for a garment

manufacturing or export company. It includes details like a a product/style code or a reference number,

colour specifications, kind of fabric, composition, description,quantity,and details of embroidery,

buttons, zippers, or any other sort of accessories used. Hence it can be said that samples of garments

work as a bridge between buyers and the producers.

The head of the sampling department is Mr Arun followed by Assistant managers, officers and

workers. In the industry handlooms are used as sampling looms.

The sampling department also have a store containing all fabric samples. Sampling prepares the swatch

card for the customers. The department also does starching of the yarns for sampling

2.4 SAMPLE WARPING

This warping process, which was developed for sampling purposes, gives full proof of its performances

during this production phase of new items. This particular process is composed of several warping

operations which wind up a limited thread length and place on the warping width several bands of

different colors to get the color variants of the fabric.

MACHINES USED:

Kyoshen Warper(Simple warping machine):

Stander grill -750 rpm

Rotation grill- 450 rpm

Suzuki Warper(Latest warping machine):

Type –RC-102B

NO-399

Stander grill-750 rpm

Rotation grill – 600 rpm

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 CHAPTER 3
MERCHANDISING
DEPARTMENT

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3.1 THE MERCHANDISING TEAM

The merchandising department of the company is led by the CEO, Ms Suchitra Menon followed by

Assistant manager- Merchandising, senior merchandisers, junior merchandisers and trainers. The team

consists of one assistant- merchandising, 7 merchandisers for international and domestic customers and

two for the Club Burgoyne.

The main exports are to US, UK and Ireland.

3.2 PAYMENT AND COSTING

The payment terms and shipment terms are decided before preparing the Performa invoice.

Before fabric production, the samples are sent to the customer.

The payment terms are either of the following:

a) 100% advance

b) Payment against delivery

c) Credit- 30, 45, 60, 90 days after delivery or after invoice

Their peak season is from June to February. Therefore they prepare their samples well in advance in

the period March to June. The peak production take place in November and December.

COSTING ARE AS FOLLOWS:

For bulk

a) Material cost:

Yarn- $10/kg

Dyeing cost-$2

b) Weaving cost: $0.0005/pick

c) Finishing cost: $ 0.8/yard

d) Administration: $ 0.2

e) Profit margin: 10-20%

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3.3 PROCESS FLOW CHART

Merchandisers

Planning Team

Discussions

Decide dates

Order

Customer performa invoice

Production details given

Bulk production

First bulk approval

Test report

Approvals

Dispatch

Figure 8 Process flow chart of merchandising department

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CHAPTER 4
PRODUCTION AND WEAVING
DEPARTMENT

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4.1 PRODUCTION

The production and planning department is headed by the senior manager followed by junior managers,

assistant managers and trainees.

The team acts as a link between marketing department, merchandisers and production unit. The main

task of the planning department is to plan the production and suggest the final output date.

4.2 LEAD TIME

The lead time for different processes as suggested by the department is as follows.

a) Piece dyed- 8 to 10 weeks

b) Yarn dyed- 10 to 12 weeks

c) Yarn procurement- 3 weeks

d) Dyeing- 3 weeks

e) Processing- 3 weeks

f) Weaving- 3 weeks

4.3 WINDING – PREPARATORY PROCESS FOR WEFT YARNS

The package obtained from ring is not suitable for selling in market and it contains some faults also

like thick and thin places so it is necessary to convert this small package into a large package and to

clear the faults. This process of conversion of small package into large is called winding. Winding is

done before warping and after yarn dyeing to check the evenness of dye.

The three main objectives of winding are:

1. To convert the small packages into bigger packages.

2. To remove the faults (thick and thin places).

3. To form a package of suitable shape and density which is easy to store and manage.

4.3.1 AUTOCONER

Fully automatic, programs are given as command and machine will work by the command. We get a

proper even cone by this auto cone machine.

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Total spindle = 10

Machine used = Saurer Schafhorst

26Nm of one cone take 40 mins, at a time we can use 10 cones.

When yarn breakage happen it will automatically tie both ends. The machine pick yarn from both top

and bottom for splicing. After splicing extra yarn will cutoff, fall on a box.

4.4 PREPARATORY PROCESS FOR WARP YARNS

Creeling : Yarn packages are placed on a large metallic frame known as creel. These creels are

equipped with yarn tensioning devices so that constant yarn tension is maintained in all the yarns as

they are being wound onto the warp beam. The modern day creels are equipped with automatic control,

centralized tension variation and yarn breakage monitoring system in order to increase the warping

performance.

4.5 WARPING

Warping is the first step of fabric manufacturing process. After winding,warping process is done for

making a weavers beam.Weavers beam is produced from a set of yarns of same yarn or different.

Followings are the most common objects of warping:

• To wound up fixed length of yarn on to a warp beam

• To increase the weavability of yarn.

• To increase the quality of yarn.

• To make re-useable small package.

• To make convenient yarn sheet for next sizing process.

• Small packages are combined by this process.

Warping can be done in two ways:

a) Direct warping – The ends of the yarn are wrapped in single operation from the yarn

packages onto the warp beam. This method is predominantly used when single colour or less

complicated patterns are to be woven.

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There is one machine (brand- R B Electronics) for direct warping with creel capacity of 680 cones.

b) Sectional warping – The yarns from the yarn package are wound in bands onto an

intermediate drum called Pattern Drum and are then transferred onto a warp beam in a

separate operation. This method of warping is employed when fancy coloured patterns of

warp are need or the capacity of creel is limited

There are three machines (brand-Hacoba) for sectional warping with creel capacity of 480 cones. The

warping beam has a conical end so as to prevent yarn slippage.

Both warping machines are imported from China (company- Liacheng Chang Run Textile machinery).

Usually sectional warping is done for linen and direct warping for cotton as cotton has to be sized first.

4.6 SIZING

Sizing is only done for linen cotton blends.

Sizing of the warp yarn is essential to reduce breakage of the yarn.

On the loom, the warp yarns are subjected to several types of actions, like abrasion at various loom

parts, inter yarn friction, etc.

The sizing paste is applied on the warp yarn with the warping machine. After weaving process, the

fabric is washed to remove the size paste (Desizing)

OBJECTIVES OF SIZING :

• To protect the yarn from abrasion.

• To improve the breaking strength of the yarn.

• To increase smoothness of yarn.

• To increase yarn elasticity.

• To decrease hairiness.

• To decrease the generation of static electricity.

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4.7 DRAWING AND DENTING

This is the process of drawing each end of the warp separately through the eyes of the heald, as

indicated in the draft and then through the dents of the reed

The order in which the warp threads are threaded in the heald shaft is known as "Drafting Order".

The order in which the warp threads are threaded on the dents of the reed is known as "Denting Order".

The manual process of Drawing-in and Denting is time consuming and hence when mass production of

same fabric is to be done then simply each end of new beam is tied to corresponding end of old beam.

This is called Tying-In.

Figure 9 Drawing and denting

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4.8 WEAVING

Preparatory processes

Beam fore lift

Drawing( 2 people)

Setting up of loom

Weaving

Approval of first bulk

Production

Quality assurance

Processing

Quality assurance

Final inspection

Packaging

Figure 10 Process flow chart in weaving

The weaving department is headed by senior manager Mr Dileep followed by manager, Assistant

manager, trainees and workers. The weaving is done using rapier loom. In rapier loom, the picking is

done by a rod-like or sword-like mechanical device, that carries the weft yarn at its tip and enters the

shed when it is open, withdrawing after delivering the weft end at the other end as the shed closes.

Instead of one, there may be two rapiers from both sides in case of wider looms, transferring weft from

one rapier to the other in the middle of the shed. They help in increasing productivity, but power

consumption also increases.

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Alignment of warp & weft is done by given design. Different colors of yarns are used. Two type of

loom are there

1) Rapier rigid loom – Dornier machine

2) Rapier flex loom – Chinese machine

Sumatex is the software used for monogram & weft design selection. For check, stripe fabric heddle

will be 1120 and for solid fabric its 832 heddle. Dornier speed is 400 rpm and price up to rs.55lakh. the

speed of chinese machine is 200 rpm and price up to rs.12lakh. Fineness depends upon the rate of

fabric. If number of Nm increase means the fabric is much finer.

In chinese machine Nm can’t be more than 70Nm.

1Nm = 1 kg/1000m

One operator maintains 6 machine.

Max. Width of loom = 190cm to 220cm

In dobby, computerized system is used for weft insertion. Draft is feed in computer and saved in chip.

That chip will imply command. Max. color we can use is 8. For weft insertion there is an accumulator

present. Sumatex Electronic Color Selector (ECS) conduct the command to machine. In Chinese flex

rapier loom we have to change the loop for different colored pick.

For an average PPI 51.8, total production per day= 20,000 yards

Piece dyed production= 250- 280 yards per day (average ppi = 50)

Yarn dyed production= 200- 220 yards per day (average ppi = 50)

Workers shifting time

8:00 – 4:00

4:00 – 12:00

12:00 – 8:00

Maintenance: - Once in year and electrician is always present in unit

Total loom 117

114 loom produce fabric of width 72.5inches

3 loom produce fabric of 82 inches width

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4.9 WEAVING LOOM MOTIONS

Weaving loom motions can be broadly categorized as follows:

4.9.1 PRIMARY LOOM MOTIONS

Primary motion is necessary for weaving fabric.Without this mechanisms,it is practically impossible to

produce a fabric.For weaving a fabric,three primary motions are required in the loom.

SHEDDING PROCESS

Shedding is the operation by which the warp is divided into two sheets so that sufficient gap is created

for the uninterrupted passage of the weft from one side of the loom to the other. It is the mechanism

that raises certain harnesses above the others. Yarns that pass through the heddle eyes in those

harnesses are raised above that are not controlled by the raised harnesses. In this way, a sheet of warp

yarns is up, and a sheet of yarns is down. The space between two yarn sheets is called “shed”.

PICKING (WEFT INSERTION)

Picking is the operation to transfer the weft yarn(pick) into the shed from one side of the loom to the

other.In shuttle loom, picking is done from both sides of the loom.However,in shuttle less looms,it is

done from only one side of the loom.

BEATING UP

Beat-up is the operation of pushing the newly inserted weft yarn back into the cloth fell by using the

reed. As soon as a weft yarn is inserted, the reed pushes or beats-up the weft to the fell of the cloth.

The fell of the cloth is the edge which is nearest to the reed as the cloth is being woven. In other words,

beating-up occurs when the reed pushes the newly inserted weft against the fell of the cloth. Temple is

a device used in weaving to hold fabric at the fell as near as possible to the width of the warp in the

reed.

4.9.2 SECONDARY LOOM MOTIONS

LET-OFF (WARP CONTROL) MOTION

This is the motion which delivers warp to the weaving area at the required rate and at a suitable

constant tension by unwinding it from a flanged tube known as the weaver’s beam.
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TAKE UP (CLOTH CONTROL) MOTION

This motion withdraws fabric from the weaving area at the constant rate that will give the required pick

spacing and then winds it onto a roller.

4.9.3 AUXILIARY MOTIONS

Auxiliary motions are added to a loom to get high productivity and good quality of fabric. The

auxiliary mechanisms are useful but not absolutely essential. That is why they are called the auxiliary

mechanisms. These are listed below.

1. Warp protector mechanism

2. Weft stop motion

3. Temples

4. Brake

5. Warp stop motion

6. Weft mixing motion

7. Weft replenishment motion

8. Feeler motion

1. Warp protector mechanism – This motion protect the warp threads by stopping the loom when the

shuttle fails to reach, the selvedge side and box properly into either the shuttle box during picking.

2. Weft stop motion – This motion able to stop the loom when a weft breaks or runs out of the

pirn(weft package).

3. Temples - The function of the temples is to grip the cloth and hold it at the same width as the warp

in the reed, before it is taken up.

4. Brake – A mechanism to stop the loom when a weft yarn breaks.

5. Warp stop motion – This motion able to stop the loom when a warp thread breaks or get

excessively loosened.

Weft mixing motion-This motion able to insert various coloured weft yarn into the same fabric for

check and stripe effect.

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Weft replenishment motion-This motion provide uninterrupted filling insertion by switching from a

depleted to a full package.

Feeler motion-This motion able to indicate whether the weft yarn in pirn is almost used up the reed.

4.10 IMPORTANT PARTS OF THE LOOM

a) Heald Shaft

This part is related to the Shedding Mechanism. It can be made up of wood or metal. It carries number

of heald wires, at the centre of which is the heald eye. The ends of warp sheet pass through these heald

wires. The number of Heald shafts used in weaving depends on the Repeat of the weave.

The main functions of heald shafts are:

• It helps in shed formation

• It helps in identifying the broken warp thread.

• It determines the order of lifting and lowering the warp ends for a pick

Mainly 12 or 16 shafts are used in the industry. For complex designs up to 20 shafts are being used.

b) Reed

• It is a metallic comb which is made up of number of wires. The gap between these wires

is known as Dent. The reed performs the following functions:

• It pushes the last inserted pick to the fell of the cloth.

• It keeps the warp ends in its position and avoids entanglement.

• It determines the fabric density, i.e. the number of ends per inch of the fabric.

• Mostly used reed count in the company are 50, 64 and 70

c) Warp Beam

This is also known as the Weaver's Beam. The warp sheet is wound on to this beam and it is fixed at

the back of the loom.

d) Back Rest

37
Back Rest or Back Beam is above the weaver's beam. It acts as a guide to the warp sheet coming from

the weaver' beam and also as a sensor for sensing the warp tension

e) Breast Beam

The breast beam or the front rest is between the temples and the cloth roller at the front of the loom

and it acts as a guide for the cloth being wound on to the cloth roller. The front rest along with the back

rest keeps the warp sheet and cloth in the horizontal position and maintains proper tension to facilitate

weaving

f) Cloth Beam

It is also called as cloth roller. The woven cloth is wound on to this roller. This roller is at the front of

the loom

4.11 WEAVING DEFECTS

1. Double pick/ end

2. Broken pick/ end

3. Bump mark

4. Broken pattern.

5. Float

6. Missing end

7. Size stain/patch

8. Reed mark.

9. Wrong pattern/denting/ drawing.

10. Warp/ Weft slub

11. Temple Mark

12. Loose pick

13. Fluff

14. Lashing

15. Less width

16. Loops
38
17. Oil stain

18. Wrong dent

19. Wrong drawing

20. Water mark

21. Thick place

22. Thin place

23. Warp pattern wrong

24. Warp snarl

25. Weft pattern wrong

26. Tight end

27. Size patches

28. Slough patches

29. Starting mark

30. Hole

31. Impression mark

32. Hand shire

33. Dobi line mark

34. Cut pick

35. Crack

36. Crease mark

37. Bad selvedge

38. Abrasion mark

39. Cross end

40. Sectional mark

41. Warp snarl

42. Wrong color end

39
 CHAPTER 5
DYEING DEPARTMENT

40
5.1 YARN DYEING

Yarn dyeing is slightly different from woven or knit dyeing. Dyed yarns are used for making striped

woven fabrics or solid dyed yarn fabric. Yarns are dyed in package form or hank form by yarn dyeing

process. Dyeing process can vary depending on the individual procedure of a textile engineer or a

dyeing master. There are many forms of yarn dyeing. Common forms are the package form and the

hanks form. Cotton yarns are mostly dyed at package form. Cotton yarns of count 30s,40s,20s,50s,16s

and linen yarns of count 26 nm, 33 nm, 39 nm,50 nm, 15 nm, 20 nm are used in the industry. Each

package weighs around 1kg.

Yarn dyeing department consists of 13 Vertical Kier Dyeing machines of different capacities. These

machines have a vertical cylindrical dyeing kier, in which material loaded into carriers with vertical

perforated spindles, is dyed. The machine could be fully flooded or air pad type .These are high

pressure machines and suitable up to 1350C temperature dyeing.

Out of the 13 machines 5 machines are air pad and the rest 8 are fully flooded.

Machines are manufactured by SAMUEL PEGG & SON LTD.- LEICESTER ENGLAND and by

GERMANY.

Their capacities are as follows:

Table 1 Capacities of Kier

WEIGHT OF NO. OF M/C’s CAPACITY TYPE

CONE
(MAX)
9kg 2 108L Fully flooded

12kg 1 210L Air pad

80kg 1 330L Fully flooded

50kg 1 650L Fully flooded

100kg 2 1100L Fully flooded

41
 250kg 1 2380L Air pad

250kg 1 3000L Fully flooded

500kg 1 4500L Fully flooded

20kg 1 168L Air pad

3kg 2 32L Air pad

5.1.2 PACKAGE DYEING MACHINE

Package dyeing machines are the most widely used now a days for dyeing of almost all type of yarns

,due to economical ,automatic and accurate dyeing results. The term package dyeing usually denotes

for dyeing of any type yarn wound on the compressible dye springs/perforated solid dyeing tubes or

cones. Yarn dyeing in package form is done at high temperature and under high pressure, with the

packages mounted on hollow spindles .These spindles are fixed on the dyeing carriers ,which is

inserted into the dyeing vessel after closing the lid of the machine ,the dyeing liquor is forced through

the packages in two way pattern (inside to out and outside to in) and goes on circulating throughout the

vessel and yarn. Heat is applied to the dye liquor to achieve the dyeing temperature, time –temperature

and flow reversal are controlled through a programmer

Figure 11 Package dyeing

WORKING PRINCIPLE

42
The material to be dyed is wound on the dye springs, perforated plastic cheeses or steel cones and loaded in

the carrier spindles, which are compressed and bolted at the top to make a uniform and homogeneous dyeing

column. The liquor containing dyes chemical and auxiliaries is forced through with the help of pump, and

circulated through the material from inside –out and is reversed periodically so that each and every part of

the material get the same and uniform treatment. The dyeing cycle is controlled through a micro computer

and different chemicals may be added through the injector pump or color kitchen at any stage of dyeing.

In case of fully flooded machines ,the liquor expands with the rise in temperature (approximately 5%

volume increases from 30-130 degree centigrade temperature) is taken back in the expansion tank through a

back cooler. This extra water is then again injected to the dyeing vessel through an injector pump. Expanded

volume of the dye liquor is thus remains in continuous circulation in the system.

Any type of addition can be done to the machine through the injector pump, the quantity and time of

injection can be controlled through the programmer.

In case of air pad machines ,the air above the liquor acts as a cushion ,which is compressed with the increase

in liquor volume, the pressure is controlled by pre set pressure control valve .In air pad machines have an

advantage ,that entire dye liquor participate in dyeing and dye exhaustion is perfect. In case some addition

has to be done in air pad machines , if the machine temperature is less than 80 degrees ,the liquor is taken

back by back transfer valve to addition tank ,and injected back to machine vessel. If the machine

temperature is above 80 Degree then cooling has to be done to bring down the machine temperature.

Air pad technology is possible in all types of machines such as vertical kier, horizontal kier and tubular

dyeing machines. The material after dyeing is washed and finished properly in the same machine and taken

out hydro extracted or pressure extracted in the same machine and dried subsequently.

The industry follows three methods of yarn dyeing, namely:

1. Normal method (for linen)

43
 2. Migration method (for cotton)

3. Turquoise

The average production per day is around 3 tons

The package density is a prime factor which determines the evenness of dyeing.

For even dyeing the density should be around 320GPL to 340GPL.

MACHINE: Pegg whiteley ltd

Obermnicr & cie, Neustadr a.d weinstr

R K Tex machines India

Lakshmi RF Dryer (INSTA 40/11)

5.1.3 PROCESS FLOWCHART

Pre-treatment

Batch loaded

Demineralization (80˚C, 20 min; PH=4.5)

Scouring & bleaching (100˚C×40 min.)

Drain

Rinse

Drain

Neutralization with acid (50°C ×20 min)

↓
44
 Hot Wash with peroxide killer (60˚C,20 min.)

Drain

Dyeing

Levelling agent & Salt (60° × 20 min; PH=6)

Color dosing (60°C,15 min.)

Run time = 10 min. (60°C)

Color migration (80°C × 20 min.)

Cooling (60°C)

Level Check

Soda dosing (60°C×30 min.)

Dyeing run (Dark-60°C×60 min;Medium-60°C×40 min;Light-60°C×

30 min)

Dyeing sample check

(If Ok)

45
 ↓

Drain

After-treatment

Rinse (with cold Water)

Neutralization after dyeing (50°C×20 min.)

Drain

Soaping (Hot wash)

Drain

Cooling

Next Soaping

Drain

Add finishing chemical(60°C×20 min)

Drain

Unload

46
5.1.4 HYDROEXTRACTOR

After dyeing 25mtrs of yarn, they collect it and dry in normal condition. Then it is send to lab for shade

checking. For finishing they do Hydraulic squeezing, hot dryer and RF Dryer. Rpm of RF dryer is 2.9m/hr.

For 13 machines are controlled by 4 operators. Rpm of Hydraulic squeezing machine is 2800. All the use

waters are gone to ETP plant.

MACHINE : LAKSHMI RF DRYER (YEAR OF MFG. 2005)

Supply voltage : 415V +- 5%

Input power requirement : 86KVA

5.1.5 RE-WINDING SECTION OF YARN DYEING

Re-winding is the last steps of yarn dyeing process. The process which is started by so winding section, it

comes in end by re winding section. After re -winding, dyed yarns become ready for packing and delivery to

the destination.

In this section dried and dyed yarns are transferred from spring or plastic tube to cone form.

Objectives: The objectives of re-winding are given bellow:

1. To transfer the dyed yarn from tube or spring to cone package. 


2. To clean the yarn. 


3. To make the yarn in continuous form. 


4. To prepare the cone package for the delivery. 


MACHINE : VIJAY ENGINEERING WORKS , SUPER HI SPEED CONE WINDER ( YEAR OF MFG.

2012)

It contains 80 spindles.

Points Need to Consider During Re-winding: During re-winding process various points are considered

which are given bellow:

47
Trash: Trash is one of the big problems in random section. Different shaded yarns are re-wind in random

section, so color trash fly in the section and enter into package of other color or same color, which destroy

the quality of the package. Especially it is harmful for the white or off white color, where other color trash

can be identify easily. 


Wax: Waxes use in random section. Yarn passes through the wax. Wax gives softness and lubricity of the

yarn, which facilities better knitting performance. Tension: Tension is given to double yarn not in single

yarn. Because tension makes single yarn package hard.

Wet Package: Wet package should not re-wind because wet package become hard after re-winding. It also

makes beets in the cone package. Cone: Cone should be available. 


Blower: Blower should work properly, because cleaning performance depends on blower performance. 


Operator: Operator should aware about the cleanliness.

5.2 DYES USED IN THE INDUSTRY

Vat Dyes

Vat dyes are insoluble organic compounds and do not have any substantivity to cellulose. These dyes are

widely used for cellulose fibres. They produce good colour range but limited selection of orange, blue.

Large amount of dyes are required to attain deeper shade.

Application

•Since these dyes are insoluble in water, it cannot be applied directly to the fabrics. First these dyes are

converted into water soluble form, by reducing it with the help of Caustic soda and Sodium hydro sulphite.

When these dyes become soluble in water, they can be applied on a fabric. After the application, these dyes

are again converted into water insoluble form by oxidation process, with the use of hydrogen peroxide and

acetic acid or simply by air oxidation.

48
•These dyes are most difficult to process and require a skilled person to dye the fabric. Vat dyes have

excellent fastness to crocking, perspiration, chlorine bleaching, oxidizing agents and high temperature

treatments. This is a very expensive dyeing process and high initial cost of dye and chemicals prevent it

from uses in normal fabrics dyeing. Vat dyes are used on best quality of the fabrics where all round fastness

is required. Indigo is the first known class of Natural Vat dye.

Reactive Dyes

Reactive dyes are water soluble dyes, which are anionic in nature. Since these type of dyes react with fibres

and make covalent type of bonding with the fibre, hence they are called Reactive dyes.

These dyes can be classified as hot brand reactive dyes and cold brand dyes. Procion (Triazine type)-H, is a

hot type of reactive dye and it react with cellulose in presence of sodium carbonate at the temperature range

of 75-90°C. Procion-C is cold type of reactive dyes, reacts at room temperature in presence of sodium

carbonate.

Ramazol is another type of reactive dyes (Vinyl sulfone reactive dye) and react in presence of base and

under goes elimination reaction to form vinylsulfone group, which then combines with cellulose and make

bonding.

It is a time consuming process. These dyes are primarily used for cotton and other cellulose fibre at an

alkaline pH of 9-12.

Application

Reactive dyes can be applied by exhaust method, as well as pad batch method also. Reactive dyes are

available in complete range of colours. They are very bright in colours. These dyes are having very good

fastness to washing, Good-very good fastness to light, and Good fastness to dry cleaning, perspiration,

crocking and poor fastness to chlorine bleaching. It is very easy to obtain level dyeing using reactive dyes.

These dyes are having high flexibility in the choice of method of application of dyeing. Cost of using

reactive dyeing is high, because of price, loss of dyes during application and extensive washing. These dyes

take excessive time for the dyeing process.

49
5.3 FABRIC DYEING

In the industry fabric is dyed by continuous dyeing process. In the continuous dyeing process, textile

substrates are continuously fed into a dyeing range. The speeds of dyeing range can vary between 50 to 250

meters per minute depending on the type of the machine and type of fabric used.

A continuous dyeing process typically consists of the following:

• Dye application.

• Dye fixation with heat or chemicals

• Rinsing or Washing.

Continuous dyeing has been found to be most suitable for woven fabrics. The step of padding plays a key

role in the operation of continuous dyeing. A continuous dye range has been found useful and economically

sustainable for dyeing long runs of a given shade.

One important factor that separates continuous dyeing from batch dyeing is the tolerance factor for colour

variation. That is more for continuous dyeing as compared to batch dyeing.

This is because of two reasons:

a) The speed of the process.

b) Presence of a large number of process variables which affects dye application.

5.3.1 Optimizing of Continuous Dyeing Process

Continuous and to some extent semi-continuous dyeing processes both are less prone to water consumption

than batch dyeing, but results in high concentration of residues. If some strict control measures are taken up

then it is possible to reduce these losses of concentrated liquor.

The following steps may prove useful.

•Applying low add-on liquor application systems along with minimizing of volume capacity of the dip

through when pad dyeing techniques are in operation.

50
•Adoption of latest dispensing systems, where the chemicals get dispensed online as separate streams. They

get mixed only at the moment just before the delivery to the applicator.

•Using any of the following systems for dosing of the padding liquor. Important to know that it should be

strictly according to the measurement of the pickup.

•A proper measurement of the dyeing liquor quantity consumption in comparison to the processed fabric.

•The resulting values thus obtained are processed automatically and applied in preparing the next

comparable batch.

After the Lab Dip sample produced at the Pilot Plant is approved by the customer, the same recipe is sent to

the bulk for the dye preparation for the whole lot. After that color is prepared and once again another sample

is prepared from that bulk color.

It is tested again for the Lab change Value. When this is completely approved the bulk dyeing starts. If

there is some sort of shortcomings then the recipe is altered and some changes is done in bulk colour. This

sample is called the DLC sample (Dye Liquor Check).

The bulk dyeing also corresponds to the methods and here also same sequence of Padding, Drying and

Developments is followed.

5.3.2 Methods of reactive dyeing

There are generally four methods for reactive dyeing

a) CPB: Cold pad batching

• It mainly used for applying dark color on fabric.

• Used for semi –continuous process.

• This machine is used for dyeing of cotton fabric with reactive dye.

• In this color and alkali (sodium silicate) apply on fabric in 4:1 ratio.

• Speed of machine 50m/min.

• Trough temp 36℃.

• Batching time 16-24 hrs.

51
 • After batching fabric wash in soaper machine.

• In soaper machine unfixed dye is removed.

• For cold pad bath steam is not required and developing is done in 102℃. 45 rollers are in the steam

machine to roll fabric.

Fabric feeding

Trough(50L)

Carrier colour

Padding mangle ( Sodium Silicate+

Dye+Alkali)

Batching (16 Hrs)

IR unit

3 chambers of drying

Figure 12 Process flow for cold pad batch dyeing

Table 2 Temperature of each wash in CPB

1st wash 70℃

2st wash 70℃

3rd wash 90℃

4th wash 80℃

5th wash 95℃ SOAPING

6th wash 95℃

7th wash 95℃ HOTWASH

52
 8st wash RT NEUTRALISATION

b) PDPS- Pad Dry Pad Steam

• Pad-dry machine is used to pad the fabric with the dye liquor and subsequently dry it. Both

dyes can be used in pad dry machine.

• For developing 102℃ is needed.

• In this process anti-migrating agent, caustic soda, wetting agents are used.

• 2gpl is used for light shades and 12gpl for dark.

• Mainly12gpl used for linen, cotton.

Fabric

Chemical bath( salt +soda ash)

Padding (reaction)

Steaming

Washing

Soaping

Neutralisation

Figure 13 Process flow chart for pad dry pad steam dyeing

Table 3 Temperature of each wash in PDPS

1st wash RT

2st wash RT

3rd wash 90℃

53
 4th wash 90℃

5th wash 95℃

6th wash 95℃

7th wash 95℃

c) Pad thermofix

Pad thermofix machine is used to pad the fabric with the dye liquor and subsequently dry it. For drying

purpose I.R. heaters and four hot flue drier at different temperature are connected with pad dry machine.

This machine is used for p/c blend when dyed with disperse dye. The machine has 8 layer roller and each

layer contain 10 rollers.

• No. of machine- 1

• Capacity of machine - 2400m/hour

• No of hot flue chambers – 3

Table 4 Temperature of each wash in pad thermofix

Temperature of chamber 1- 100℃

Temperature of chamber 2 - 110℃

Temperature of chamber 3 - 120℃

• Capacity of machine – 35m/min

Fabric

Padding + curing (above 140°C)

Figure 14 Process flow for pad thermofix

54
1st wash – RT

2nd wash – RT

3rd wash - 70℃

4th wash - 70℃

5th, 6th, 7th wash – SOAPING

8th wash – NEUTRALISATION

5.3.3 Method of Vat dyeing

Vat dyeing is done through Pad steam process. Pad steamers are used for the development of dyes so that

they have overall good fastness properties.

The aim of the Pad- steamer in the dyeing section is as follows:

• Development of vat dyes

• Development of reactive dyes (silicate method and chemical method).

• Washing

a) Padding

The fabric is padded with the recipes, in the padding mangle according to the process used for the

development of a particular shade.

b) Steaming

The most critical section in the dyeing is the steamer. Though dyeing in pad dryer has been successfully

carried out and padding of developing chemicals in the pad- steamer is also correct, any minor problem can

bring the worst results place.

The steamer has a Hut shape. The top rollers are driven while the bottom rollers are free moving type.

55
The steam supply to the steamer is direct from the main supply line. Another exciting feature of the steamer

is its shape. The roof is tapered so that the angle of contact between the two sides is 90℃. This is essential

because as the exhaust steam rises, it condenses on the top of the roof.

c) Washer

After passing through the steamer the fabric next goes to the washers for thorough washing. The Pad-

Steamer comprises of 8 washers. The first washer is at room temperature and the temperature gradually rises

in the subsequent washers. If the fabric is vat dyed then the 4th washers are meant for oxidation. Hydrogen

Peroxide is used as an oxidizing agent. The 7th washer is meant for soaping. Non-Ionic soap is used for

soaping. The 8th washer is used for neutralizing the vat dyed fabric. Acetic acid is used at room temperature.

The fabric then goes to the vertical drying range.

Fabric

Trough

Steamer

Solubilised form

Cold washer

Chemical oxidation

Soaping

Wash

Figure 15 Process flow chart for vat dyeing

56


CHAPTER 6

PROCESSING AND FINISHING

DEPARTMENT

57
6.1 PROCESSING

Natural fibers and synthetic fibers contain primary impurities that are contained naturally, and secondary

impurities that are added during weaving processes. Textile pre-treatment is the series of cleaning

operations. All impurities which cause adverse effect during dyeing is removed in pre-treatment process.

Pre-treatment processes include desizing, scouring and bleaching which make subsequent dyeing and

softening processes easy. Uneven desizing, scouring, and bleaching in the pre-treatment processes might

cause drastic deterioration in the qualities of processed products, such as uneven dyeing and decrease in

fastness.

OBJECTIVES

• Removal of foreign material from the fabric: Natural impurities present in linen and cotton,

production residues in manmade fibres and previously applied processing auxiliaries must be

removed. This improves uniformity, hydrophobicity and fibre affinity for dye stuffs and finishing

auxiliaries.

• Improving the ability to absorb dyes uniformly.

• In the case of cotton a chemical treatment is applied (mercerising) to alter cellulose crystallinity.

Two types of fabric come to the department namely 100% linen and cotton linen blend. The blend fabric

usually has cotton warp and linen weft.

The department strictly follows export order standards- ASTM, ISO and M&S.

The estimated wastage in the department is 3%.

FLOW CHART OF PROCESSING DEPARTMENT

SINGEING

SCOURING

BLEACHING

58
 DYEING

FINISHING

QUALITY
ASSURANCE

FOLDING &
INSPECTION

PACKING

6.2 SINGEING

The verb ‘singe’ literally means ‘to burn superficially’. Technically, singeing refers to the burning-off of

loose fibres not firmly bound into the yarn and/or fabric structure. Singeing is an important part of

pretreatment. This is the burning off of protruding fiber ends from the surface of the fabric. The first zone is

the Pre Brushing unit wherein the protruding fibers are raised and other easily removable impurities are

removed. Next the main Singeing zone wherein the gas singeing is used. The flames are used to burn the

protruding fiber which tends to scatter light and thereby improves luster.

MACHINE: HUA XIN, Zhejiang machines

In the company, gas singeing (LNG) is done where the fabric is passed over an open flame at a high speed to

prevent scorching.

The speed of the machine is 70m/min.

First the fabric passes through a centring device. It ensures alignment of fabric in the centre using sensors.

Then the fabric passes through brushing unit, which has 2 rollers namely pre brush roller and post brush

59
roller. The pre brush roller rotates in opposite direction of the fabric movement thus removing the dust

particles and protruding the fibres in 90° angle. These fibres are then cut by an emery roller. The resulting

fluff and dust is collected by suction into dust bags. The rest protruding fibres are raised by the post roller.

Followed by the post roller is the burner unit, which consists of 4 burners. The fabric passage is in such a

way that the front and back gets burned 2 times each. There is cooling water supply through the rollers so as

to ensure that the fabric does not burn.

The flame intensity is maintained at 2.7cm. The standard fringe length is 2 mm to 3 mm.

Then the fabric passes through a compensator which maintains the tension of the fabric during movement.

The fabric then passes through saturator for de-mineralising.

Wetting agent, sequestering agent and a desizing agent is added if required. Then the fabric passes through

squeezer.

It takes around 6 hours each for de-mineralising and desizing.

Uneven singeing leads to unlevelled dyeing.

6.3 DESIZING

Desizing is the process of removing the size material from the warp yarns in woven fabrics. Sizing agents

are selected on the basis of type of fabric, environmental friendliness, ease of removal, cost considerations,

effluent treatment, etc

Desizing irrespective of what the desizing agent is, involves impregnation of the fabric with the desizing

agent, allowing the desizing agent to degrade or solubilise the size material, and finally to wash out the

degradation products.

The Impregnating bath contains required amount of enzyme, Wetting agent and Sodium Chloride (NaCl).

After this process, fabric is thoroughly washed with hot water. In Enzyme application of De-sizing, the

fabric padded with enzyme bath is then passed through steam of 96-100°C temp. This is a rapid process in

which De-sizing process complete in less than one minute. The main advantage of De-sizing with enzymes

is that there is no risk of damaging the fibers. The process is an eco- friendly and relatively expensive.

60
6.4 SCOURING

The term ‘scouring’ applies to the removal of impurities such as oils, was, gums, soluble impurities and sold

dirt commonly found in textile material and produce a hydrophilic and clean cloth. Squeezing roll is made

up of steel & rubber which will increase the pressure so what fabric will squeeze properly. Scouring agent

used for this process is Sodium Hydroxide, Caustic soda. Capacity of machine is 1500mtr.

Machine model:- 2LT2991

In this process, fabric is treated with strong alkali solution (5-10 g/l NaOH or mixture of NaOH & Sodium

Carbonate) close to or above the boiling temp, for 1-2 hours with hot rinse and final cold rinse with acetic

acid. The final rinse with acetic acid is also called souring process.

First the fabric passes through a series of two washers where the fabric is thoroughly washed. Then it passes

through saturator where caustic soda, wetting agent, sequestering agent and a reducing agent is added.

Further the fabric is taken to steamer and then to washer in 50°C.

There is a heat exchanger, where waste water from the steamer and former washers supply the heat required

for the final washer.

The speed of the machine is 40m/min.

61
 Material

Washing unit

Hot Wash

Scouring Bath

Wetting agent + sequestering agent+ Caustic soda

Steaming Unit

100°C saturated steam

Washing unit

Figure 16 Process flow chart for scouring

6.5 BLEACHING

Bleaching is the process by which natural color of cotton fabrics are destroyed. So that fabric will be more

bright& light reflectance will be more before one. Peroxide bleaching is done here.

The fabrics from the weaving department come to the process house in form of rolls. The rolls are either

transported from the same plant or from other plants of Wfb. The way of transportation is generally the

loading truck. Once the rolls opens up it is stitched to make a suitable material for continuous flow of

process. Here over-lock machine is used for stitching. According to the finishes their stitching is done.

Bleaching machine is also called Oxing machine. Speed of machine for shades 35mtr/mint and for white

fabrics 40mtr/mint.

In bleaching process the agents used for reaction are Wetting agent (which will help to increase the

wettability of fabric), Alkaline agent, sequencing agent, Bleaching agent (Hydrogen peroxide – universal

bleaching agent), Stabilizer, Neutralizing agent. NaOH is mostly used because its of lower cost and more

62
eco-friendly and uses less water. Dwell time is 25mints.Capacity of machine is1000mtr. For first 3 wash

temperature is of 95℃, balance of Room temperature. Neutralization is done 4th wash. Green colored

Teflon coating over 2 cylinders. Time taken for pre- preparation process is 30mint.

For yarn dyed bleaching is not done only washing. The normal acceptable ph is 6.5 so in order to neutralise

it the fabric is treated with acids such as acetic acid to bring the fabric to the normal ph. If it basic strong

alkaline such as caustic soda is used.

6.6 CALENDERING

In this finishing operation, fabric is compressed between two heavy rolls to provide flattened, smooth

appearance of fabric by the action of heat and pressure. Surface of the roller can be either smooth or

engraved. These rollers are generally made of hardened chromium plated or elastic thermoplastic materials.

Calendaring is done for many purposes.

The main effects are as follows:

• To improve the Smoothness of the fabric

• To increasing the lustre of fabric

• For closing the threads of woven fabric

• For decreasing the air permeability

• For increasing the fabric opacity

• To improve the fabric handle

• To flatten the slubs

• For obtaining silk like / high gloss finish

• To obtain Surface patterning by embossing

• Consolidation of non-woven fabrics

Swissing or normal gloss calendaring only done in the industry.

6.7 STENTER

63
The main functions of stenter are:

• To impart various chemical finishes and made them set on the fabric.

• For the Width setting of fabric.

• For the Correction of skewing and bowing defect ( Mahlo unit).

• For the Heat setting of synthetics.

Stenter is for weft shrinkage. Fabric is passes in weft straightener as a wet condition. We can see the

unevenness through display over the machine. After that it goes through pin header (sensor present in both

sides). Then it passes through five chambers which have two blowers and one cooling fan. The length of one

chamber is 3m. Capacity of machine is 70mtr/mint.

The fabric that comes from the dyeing section is given any of the above-mentioned finishes according to the

customer’s requirement. The finishing liquor is prepared in tank area of the stenter.

MACHINE: BABCOCK

THE MAIN PARTS OF STENTER AND THEIR AIM ARE AS FOLLOWS:

PADDING TROUGH: Various finishing chemicals are transferred through the water-jacketed trough. The

trough is provided with the mangle, which take fabric through it.

HOT FLUE DRYER: The most striking feature of the stenter is the Hot Flue section. The Hot Flue unit has

been incorporated to increase the speed of the fabric in stenter.

MAHLO UNIT: The fabric due to various wet processes in the processing house results into distortion of the

weft in the form of Skew or Bowing. To straighten the weft the Mahlo Unit is employed. Problems are

senses any distortion in the fabric and accordingly gives signal to the rollers so that they adjust and

straighten out the fabric.

FEED ROLLER: After mahlo unit there are feed rollers to feed the fabric to stenter chain according to the

stretching required in the fabric.

WIDTH SETTING UNIT: From feed roll the fabric is set to stenter chain by passing over feed rollers,

which provide required tension to fabric. When fabric is held on the stenter chain the width of chain can also

be set .

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CHAMBER AND HEATING SYSTEM: There are eight chambers in all three stenter, but the heating media

are different.

a. Thermic oil: In the first stenter thermic oil is used to heat the radiators.

b. Steam used as heating media.

COOLING ROLLERS: 2 water-cooled rollers are provided at the end so that we don’t get hot fabric at the

plaitor

TECHNICAL PARAMETERS OF STENTER

Capacity: 70mtr/mint

Temp: 150℃

6.8 SANFORIZATION

Sanforizing or shrinkage is the final step of finishing before the fabric is forwarded to the folding

department. The function of this machine is to impart pre-determined shrinkage to the fabric so that there is

no further shrinkage in fabric during washing.

MACHINE: Delta, Zhejiang machine

The shrinkage normally is given 2-7% depending upon the customer demand and the quality of the fabric.

The machine has following sections:

• Damping section

• Compressing Unit

• Setting Unit

• Cooling unit

INLET ZONE: Fabric is fed over guide rollers to move in the machine. Firstly, the fabric is damped with

spray showers so that it goes slightly wet in sanforizing machine for proper shrinkage.

RUBBER BELT AROUND A STEAM HEATED CYLINDERS: The shrinkage unit comprises of a rubber

felt and steam heated cylinder, which are in contact with each other. The fabric is fed at the nip of these two.

As the felt shrinks, the fabric in contact with it also shrinks. More the pressure of contact, more will be the

felt shrinkage thus increase in the fabric shrinkage. The width of rubber belt is 67mm.

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 CHAPTER 7

INSPECTION AND QUALITY

ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT

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7.1 FOLDING AND INSPECTION

The folding and inspection department marks the completion of processing. Therefore the following steps

are carried under this department.

In this stage, there are 5 machines wherein proper inspection is done of all the fabrics, under the software

SAP, wherein the width of fabrics, other necessary dimensions and various faults each at spinning stage,

weaving stage or processing stage is judged out and mentioned forward so that a proper grading could be

given to the cloth, and depending on that customer supply is done.

PARTS OF INSPECTION MACHINE

1) Guider: This holds the fabrics from both sides.

2) Tube Lights: These are present to give proper light so that there is hindrance of any dim light.

3) Plaiter: This provides proper Plaiting of the fabric and its proper transfer to the trolley.

7.1.1 ROLL WINDING

Roller winding is an important stage as this produces the lot that is finally dispatched to the customer. The

no. of meters to be rolled on the fabric depends on the quality of the fabrics ( it ranges from 40 to 250.). Let

us now look at the various parts of Roll Winding Machine:

1. Guider: Holds the fabric from both sides.

2. Sensor: This senses the amount of cloth to be run and holds it firmly and don’t let it go here and there.

3. Mechanical meter: This measure the amount of cloth rolled.

7.2 FOUR POINT SYSTEM

This is a norm for checking fabric which is governed by American society for testing and materials. Under

this norm defects in the fabric are rated through point system according to their size (length and width wise).

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 Table 5 Four point system

Sr. no Damage Length Point

1 1” to 3” 1

2 3” to 6” 2

3 6” to 9” 3

4 9” and above 4

7.3 PRODUCT QUALITIES

In WFB Baird, each fabric is known by its quality depending upon the epi, ppi, gsm, yarn count and weave.

Some of the qualities are

a) Naisha

Premium quality

Warp x weft – 60 x 60

epi/ppi – 75/60

Reed count- 75

Weaves- plain weave and twill

b) Sonata

Warp x weft – 33 x 33

epi/ppi – 50/50

Reed count- 67

Weaves- plain weave and chambrays

c) Retro

Warp x weft – 33 x 33

epi/ppi – 55/58

Reed count- 67

Weaves- twill weave, mock leno, combination of plain and twill

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 d) Emerald

Warp x weft – 60 x 60

Weave – plain weave

Table 6 Fabric grading

Fabric Grade Points per 100 sq. yard

A 0 – 10

B 10 – 20

C 20 – 32

FAIL 32 Above

7.4 DEFECTS / FAULTS

Fabric faults can be categorized into the followings;

a) Warping Faults

• Extra End/ Double End

• Loose End

b) Sizing Faults

• Hard Size/ Size Hole/ Over Size

• Sizing Stains

• Sizing Balls/Beads

c) Production Faults

• Miss Pick

• Double Pick

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 • Hanging Thread

• Wrong Drawing

• Wrong Denting Count Mix

• Broken End/ Short End

d) Maintenance Faults

• Starting marks

• Repping mark

• Nozzle mark

• Temple mark

• Temple cuts (warp/weft cuts)

• Let off mark

• Shadow

• Lashing in

• Floats

• Reed cuts

• Reed mark

• Oil/grease stains

• Weft loose

• Short double picks

• Reediness

• Needle top

• Needle mark

• Short miss picks

• Crack

• Snarling

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7.5 THE QUALITY ASSURANCE TEAM

The department is headed by Mr Ramesh followed by manager, two assistant manager, officers, junior

officers, trainees and workers. The quality assurance department consists of four main areas- Testing lab,

conditioned room, inspection area and shade matching.

7.5.1 QUALITY ASSURANCE

Quality assurance refers to the engineering activities implemented in a quality system so that requirements

for a product or service will be fulfilled. It is the systematic measurement, comparison with a standard,

monitoring of processes and an associated feedback loop that confers error prevention. This can be

contrasted with quality control, which is focused on process outputs.

Quality assurance system can be divided into following steps:

1. On line Quality assurance system and

2. Off line Quality assurance system.

Again on line Quality assurance system can be divided into the following steps:

§ Raw material control.

§ Process control.

Tests are done at those stages here-

1) After Scouring-Bleaching:

§ PH test

§ Absorbency test.

§ Size test.

§ Whiteness test

§ Yellowness test

§ Pick- up %

2) Finishing :

§ Shade checking.
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 § Peach finish quality.

§ Finish type.

§ Hand feel.

STANDARDS FOLLOWED:

• ASTM International.

• British Standards Institute BS.

• International Organisation for Standardization ISO

7.6 TESTING LAB

The testing lab consists of the following machineries

a) Spectrophotometer:

This is known to be the most important device at the pilot plant. The spectrophotometer develops the

prominent recipe through its unique working; through that recipe a lab dip sample is made. This sample

further tested on the same machine for its value and thereby its closeness with the original customer sample

is studied.

COMPUTER COLOUR MATCHING: CCM

This is unique style of color matching or rather color analysis. Color is basically defined by 3 basic

components:

1. Lightness (l): This shows the depth of color.

2. Red Green Value (a)

3. Yellow Blue Value (b)

There are 2 more values defined at spectrophotometer:

1. Delta C: This is called Chroma and this gives the saturation of color.

2. Delta H: This gives the hue of color.

Following light sources are used in CCM lab.

1. Tube light

2. CWF

3. D-65
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4. UL-30

5. TL-84

6. Inca

7. UL-35

Machine used: Qretaqmacbeth Paramount,Mathew’s Switzerland

b) Yarn evenness tester

Instrument used is Paramount Yarn Evenness Tester. Visual determination of unevenness along the length of

a yarn is carried out by wrapping it in equally spaced parallel wraps over a board and comparing the

appearance of irregularities against Standard Rating Photographs. Yarn Evenness Tester consists of a yarn

wrap Board the Board is automatically to wrap yarn over it on operating the handle. The yarn is guided on to

the board through a yarn guide, which moves parallel to the pivoting axis of the board giving uniformly

spaced wraps.

ASTM standard test method describes the yarn appearance into five grades. The board is compared with

standard photographs and then graded.

Grade A: No large neps, very few small neps, must have very good uniformity, less fuzziness.

Grade B: No larger neps, few small neps, less than 3 small pieces of foreign matters per board, slightly

more irregular and fuzzy than A.

Grade C: Some larger neps and more smaller neps, fuzziness, foreign matters more than B, more rough

appearance than B.

Grade D: Some slubs (more than 3 times diameter of yarn). More neps, larger size neps, fuzziness, thick and

thin places, foreign matters than Grade C yarn. Overall rougher appearance than C.

Grade E: Below grade D, more defects and overall rougher appearance than grade D yarn

c) Yarn strength tester

Instrument used is Yarn RKM Tester. In this instrument it is necessary to clamp the yarn test specimen so

that the machine loading access is aligned with the specimen axis. With a thin test specimen such as yarn,

alignment of the specimen for tensile testing of yarn can prove difficult. This alignment of yarn during

tensile tests is most easily achieved and repeatable using capstan style grips. Then the
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Force required to break single strand of yarn is calculated.

d) Abrasion tester

The instrument used is Martindale abrasion tester. Four specimens (38 mm diameter) are mounted in the

specimen holder. The sample is abraded against standard abradant under standard load. A complex motion

(resultant of two s.h.m. at right angle to one another) is given to the specimen holder. No. of cycles are noted

when two threads are broken. The specimen is examined at suitable intervals. If likely failure point is

known, then first inspection can be made at 60% of that value. For hosiery fabrics, a flattened rubber ball is

pushed through the sample as the holder is tightened thus stretching it. Tested at 12kpa pressure till hole

appears.

e) Fabric tear Tester

Instrument used is Elmendorf Tear Tester. The force required to continue the tearing of an initial cut in the

fabric is measured. Corresponding samples are made according to test standards.

Check whether the pressure gauge value is in the range of 0.6 ±1 MPa, otherwise, adjust the pressure relief

valve to meet the requirements.

Start the Elmendorf tearing tester, enter the working interface and set the corresponding parameters. Zero

adjustments and calibration: Adjust the Elmendorf tearing tester calibration according to the test manual,

and adjust the angle, then return to the main page to start testing.

f) Rubbing Fastness Tester

The Instrument used is Crockmeter.

The crockmeter consists of a rigid flat metallic platform on which the test specimen can be held firmly and

an abrading finger which rubs against it under a specified load. The platform is fixed over the base of the

equipment and lies in a horizontal plane. The test specimen is held firmly over an abrasive paper which is

pasted on the upper face of the platform, with the help of two pins holding it at both ends. The abrading

finger has a flat circular rubbing face which is covered with 4 piece of white abradant fabric during the test.

The abradant fabrics picks up colour lost by the test specimen during rubbing. It is held over the finger with

the help of a tapered ring. Motion to the finger is given through a reciprocating arm with runs and two ball

bearings to minimize friction and to apply a uniform load on the finger. The arm is moved by a manually
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operated crank and connecting link. The equipment is finished in dark metallic paint and bright chrome

plating to give it a corrosion resistant finish.

g) Wicking tester

The instrument used is MSC Vertical Wicking tester. A piece of fabric specimen of 1 inch width is dipped in

a beaker containing water. Then the distance of water movement in the fabric sample is measured in a

specific time.

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 CHAPTER 8

SUSTAINABLE MEASURES

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8.1 SUSTAINABLE MEASURES ADOPTED

a) Effluent treatement plant, so as to comply with the waste water management policy of CSEZ

b) The use of heat exchangers at the processing department, saving energy

Blending linen with sustainable fibre- Tencel

8.2 ETP

The effluent treatment plant is designed to treat the effluent coming from different areas of the plant. The

treatment of different effluents varies with the type of effluent. Water is recycled from effluent coming from

textile & chemical industries using series of operations i.e. coagulation, flocculation, aeration, and filtration

techniques mainly reverse osmosis. The effluent produce has high BOD, COD, pH, TSS, TDS and Color

material. This study includes characterization of effluent and making of process flow sheet of Effluent

Treatment Plant after visit to various locations in industrial areas. Points of optimization were identified in

various unit operations involved considering the total cost incurred during the whole process. It was

identified that automation and use of highly substantive dyes during coloration stages (dyeing & printing) in

a textile mill considerably reduces the amount of effluent produced. Effect of different mesh sizes of

coagulating agents was (also) studied in conjugation mixing speed. It was noted that use of polyphosphazene

membranes instead of polyamides for reverse osmosis plants, as they possess better resistance at high pH

and temperature.

8.2.1 NEED OF ETP

Water is basic necessity of life used for many purposes one of which is industrial use. Industries generally take water

from rivers or lakes but they have to pay heavy taxes for that. So it’s necessary for them to recycle that to reduce cost

and also conserve it. Main function of this ETP is to clean GCP effluent and recycle it for further use.

The basic thrust of the technology is to convert entire quantity of effluent to zero level by separating water and salt

using evaporation and separation technology. The concept and the treatment are based on the removal of the entire

COD/BOD and the condensate coming out to meet the fresh water quality requirement in the process.

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 CHAPTER 9

SUGGESTIONS AND CONCLUSION

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9.1 SUGGESTIONS

The extra selvedge which is cut off from the dobby loom can be pleated/ braided/ knotted to create products

which are usually made of pile weave fabrics, for example floor mats, blankets etc.

The main challenge is to ensure that the cut piles remain attached to the joining warp. If this criteria is

satisfied, this waste can be converted to luxurious end products which would be taken up as a CSR activity

by the company by promoting unskilled labour and efficient waste management.

9.2 CONCLUSION

The knowledge of textiles has broadened our understanding of various subjects taught to us in our college

The time spent in the industry was very useful. It gave us immense practical and technical knowledge.

Our 14 days internship at WFB Baird has been a great learning experience as it has not only helped us

understand the various textile processes in a better way, but have also helped us relate to whatever we have

been learning, about textile processing till date in our classroom.

The conversations with the operators and other unit members have helped us understand the various day to

day operations, problems and their solutions that they come across. The industry insisted us to stay along the

workers during the factory time and allowed us to interact with them, which helped us to mould ourselves

professionally.

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 BIBLIOGRAPHY

• Fabric Science book by J.J. Pizzuto.

• Textiles, Fiber to Fabric by Bernard P. Corbman.

• www.burgoyne.co

• www.houseofburgoyne.com

• www.bairdmcnuttirishlinen.com

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