Industrial Training Report
(Course Code: TE 410)
At
PURBANI FABRICS LIMITED
Nurbag, Mouchak, Kaliakoir, Gazipur, Dhaka
Academic Supervisor: Industrial Supervisor:
Mr. Sumon Mazumder Mr. Shamsuddin Ahmed
Assistant Professor DGM
Department of Textile Engineering Dyeing Section
Daffodil International University Purbani Fabrics Limited
Prepared By:
Md. Abnul Hasan
ID: 091-23-1412
Date of Submission: 20’Th December, 2012.
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CHAPTER-
1
Introduction
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CHAPTER- 4
Batching Section
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CHAPTER- 2
Profile of the Company
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CHAPTER- 3
Knitting Section
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CHAPTER- 5
Dyeing Lab Section
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CHAPTER- 6
Dyeing Section
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CHAPTER- 7
Finishing Section
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CHAPTER- 8
Garments Manufacturing Section
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CHAPTER- 9
Quality Control Section
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CHAPTER-
14
Utility Department
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CHAPTER-
15
Maintenance Department
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CHAPTER-
16
ETP & WTP Plant
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CHAPTER-
10
Inventory Section
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CHAPTER-
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Cost Analysis
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CHAPTER-
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Marketing Department
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CHAPTER-
13
HRM & Compliance
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CHAPTER-
17
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Conclusion
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Industrial Training Report
at
PURBANI FABRICS LIMITED
Nurbag, Mouchak, Kaliakoir, Gazipur, Dhaka
Academic Supervisor: Industrial Supervisor:
Mr. Sumon Mazumder Mr. ShamsuddinAhmed
Assistant Professor DGM
Department of Textile Engineering Dyeing Section
Daffodil International University Purbani Fabrics Limited
Prepared By
Md. AbnulHasan
ID: 091-23-1412
Date of Submission: 20’Th December, 2012.
Letter of Transmittal
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
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First of all, I like to thanks the almighty ALLAH for enabling us to complete
my industrial training and report successfully.
I express my heartiest thanks to my instructor and honorable teacher Mr.
Sumon Mazumder, to whom we are extremely indebted for tremendous
support and guidance throughout my training period. Being working with his I
have not only earned valuable knowledge but also inspired by his
innovativeness which helped & enrich my experience to a greater extent. His
ideas and way of working was truly remarkable.
Specially, I am very much grateful to Mr. Atiqul Islam, DGM (Admin, HR &
Compliance), and Mr. Shamsuddin Ahmed, DGM (Dyeing Section), Md.
Rafiqul Islam for giving me the opportunity and cooperating and helping me
in collection of necessary data for the preparation of this report.
Once more, I would like to thank’smy industrial supervisor inPurbani Fabrics
Ltd. who supervise me cordially, without his help I could not complete my
industrial training properly. I would like to thanks to the officers and staffs of
Purbani Fabrics Ltd, for their outstanding support and sharing their
working experience while working with them. They gave me long patient
hearing and sitting, practical orientation and answering all the queries nicely.
I like to thanks ProfessorDr. S.M. MahbubUl HaqueMajumderDean of
Faculty of Science and Information Technology and Professor Dr. Md.
Mahabubul Haque, Head of the Department of Textile Engineering,
Daffodil International University, who has inspired me to take and continue
this report.
Last but not least, thanks go to my precious family for their never ending love
and inspire at every stages of our life.
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
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Purbani Fabrics Ltd. is going to one of the leading Company in Bangladesh
and is going from strength to strength since its inception. By observing the
factory existing condition and employees’ behavior to one other, their fastest
and quality production and organizational structure, I was led to believe that
the company is very centralized. The span of control is very adequate in the
management and each manager is given the span of control according to
his/her position. One of the industry’s main objectives is to ensure that there
is appropriate delegation of authority and accountability of management staff
all the way down to the supervisory level.
The factory faces good competition from their competitors which as a result
motivates them to work harder to achieve their objectives and goals. The
organization uses the multiple departmental bases and according to the
management this base is the most appropriate. The upper level managers are
accountable to the executive directors, who are regularly reviews and approve
the strategic plans for each business unit.
While surveying the organization I found that the factory provides comfortable
working conditions, friendly co-workers, efficient management and status ,
and from the factory management part, they have made ensure the world class
accommodation, amenities, services, facilities no doubt.
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Serial No Subject Page No
1 Introduction 1
1.1 Tableofof
History theContent
project development 2
1.2 Vision & mission of the project 2
2 Profile of the Company 3
2.1 Achievement 5
2.2 Sister Concern of Purbani Fabrics Ltd 8
2.3 Upper Level Organizational Structure of Purbani Fabrics 8
Ltd
3 Knitting Section 10
3.1 Organogram of Knitting section in Purbani Fabrics Ltd 11
3.2 Yarns 12
3.2.1 Counts of Yarns Used: 12
3.2.2 Yarn LOT( Specification Card): 12
3.2.3 Types of yarns used in PURBANI 12
3.2.4 Characteristics of various types of Yarn 13
3.2.5 Types of raw material 14
3.2.6 Source of yarn for knitting 14
3.2.7 Different yarn and count For Knitting 14
3.3 Fabrics Produced in Purbani Fabrics Ltd 15
3.4 Flow process of knitting section 16
3.5 Flat Knitting Section 16
3.6 Singlejersey Circular Knitting Machine 18
3.7 Double Jersey Circular knitting Machine 21
3.8 Process flow chart of knitting 22
3.9 Description of Production Process 23
3.9.1 Production Parameters 23
3.9.2 Relationship between knitting parameters 23
3.10 Considerable points to produce knit fabric 24
3.11 G.S.M 24
3.12 Factors that should be changed in case of fabric 24
design
3.13 Effect of stitch length of color depth 24
3.14 Methods of increasing production 25
3.15 Faults and their causes in knitting 25
3.16 Collection of faulted knitted fabric 27
3.17 Different Fabric GSM and Their Yarn Count 28
3.18 Different Parts of Knitting Machine 29
3.19 Introduction To Quality Assurance System 29
3.20 Some points are needed for maintaining high quality 29
fabric
3.21 List of Equipment for quality control 29
3.22 Quality Assurance Property 30
3.23 Quality Standard 30
3.24 Production Calculation 31
3.25 International
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3.26 Sample Collection 35
4. Batching Section 38
1. Introduction
Textile and garments sector is the biggest and fastest growing sector in Bangladesh. It
is also the highest foreign currency earning sector in Bangladesh. Among this sector,
knit dyeing is growing very rapidly due to smaller investment requirement, greater
backward linkage facility & higher profit than woven garments. That’s why export of
knit dyeing garments has increasing steadily for last few years.
Textile education can’t be completed without industrial training. Because this
industrial training minimizes the gap between theoretical and practical knowledge and
make us accustomed to industrial environment. We got an opportunity to complete
two month (8 Weeks) long industrial training in “Purbani Fabrics Ltd." which is a
100% export, oriented composite Knit Dyeing Industry. It has well planned &
equipped fabric and Knit dyeing-finishing units in addition to facilitate Knit and
knitting wear manufacturing.
The industrial internship is the process, which builds understanding, skills and attitude
of the performer, which improves his knowledge in boosting productivity and
services. University education provides us vast theoretical knowledge as well as more
practical attachment, in despite of all these industrial attachment helps us to be
familiar with technical support of modern machinery, skill ness about various
processing stages.
It also provides us sufficient practical knowledge about production management, work
study, efficiency, industrial management, purchasing, utility and maintenance of
machinery and their operation techniques etc. The above mentioned can not be
achieved successfully by means of theoretical knowledge only. This is why it should
be accomplished with practical knowledge in which it is based on. Industrial
attachment makes us reliable to be accustomed with the industrial atmosphere and
improve courage and inspiration to take self responsibility.
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1.1 History of the project development
Purbani has been involved in the textile business for over thirty five years. In the
early seventies, it emerged in the textile business as a yarn
trader. In 1984, the group entered textile manufacturing by
acquiring a spinning production line. Today, the group has
a 100% export oriented vertically integrated knitted
apparel production facility. It uses its spinning units to
produce yarn and the yarn is used in the subsequent in-
house processes to manufacture fabric and apparel export.
The word ‘Purbani’ (Pur-baH-NEE) is derivative of a
Sanskrit word that means "eastern incitement" or "the drawing together through
eastern influence". The group itself shares that modality since it was never designed as
a formal group of companies but only later was drawn together through a common
influence and took on such a form. The group’s first venture was M/S Purbani traders
in 1973. Since 1973, however, the Purbani group has grown into a leading group of
companies in Bangladesh by virtue of its dynamic management approach,
competitiveness, efficiency, and clear single-minded vision. All the enterprises
represented by the Purbani group are 100% export-oriented and enjoys loyal
patronage from a broad client-base all over Europe, Northern America and the Far
East.
Purbani has been involved in the textile business for over thirty years. In the early
seventies, it emerged in the textile business as a textile yarn trader. In 1984, the group
entered into textile manufacturing by acquiring a spinning production line. Today, the
group has a 100% export oriented vertically integrated knitted apparel production
facility, that is, it uses its own spinning units to produce yarn and the yarn is used in
the subsequent in-house processes to manufacture fabric and apparel for export. The
manufacturing facilities are located in Narayanganj, Gazipur and Cox's Bazar.
The company has an annual turnover of US$ 100 million annually and a total
investment of US$ 60 million. It is currently employing 6000 people.
1.2 Vision& mission of the project
The mission and vision of Purbani Fabrics Ltd." is to manufacture and deliver high
quality readymade garments (RMG) to its customers. To attain these objectives, the
management has decided to adopt the following:
I. To increase awareness regarding customers requirements throughout the
organization.
II. By providing training to develop efficiency of the employee.
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2. Profile of the Company
PURBANI FABRICS LIMITED
At a glance …….
Name of Company :PURBANI FABRICS LIMITED.
Company Logo :
Slogan :1. From Raw Cotton to Readymade Garments.
2. We Spin Knit Dye Stitch for Excellence.
3. Explore new Horizons with Complete Textile.
Address
Factory : Noorbagh, Kaliakoir
Gazipur ,Dhaka, Bangladesh
Telephone: +88-02-9298373
Fax:+88-02-8817567
E-MAIL: admin@purbanigroup.com
Website : www.purbanigroup.com/web
www.purbanigroup.com/index.php
Office : Richmond Concord, 5th Floor
68, Gulshan Avenue, Gulshan-1
Dhaka-1212,Bangladesh
Telephone: 88-02-8825205,
Fax: 88-02-881756
E-mail: info@purbanigroup.com
Established Year : 1984
Contact persons : Shafiqul I. SarkerSohel
Director
M. Yousuf Khan
Director
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Nature of business :100% Export-oriented composite knit dyeing factory.
Nature of company : Private Limited Company
Total employees :1000 persons
Turnover :US$ 10 million/year.
Total Area :30Bigha
Building: 8storied dye house and finishing area.
Certificate :Cotton USA licenses,
WRAP&
Oeko-Tex.
Item of product
Knit fabric :Structures, Single Jersey, Pique, Lacoste,
Interlock, Rib, Herring Bone, Knitted Twill,
French Terry and other great designs. (100%
cotton, polyester, polyamide and blends with
elasthane inserts).
In addition, this unit produces interlock fabrics in
plain and lycra varieties of the highest quantity.
Garments:T-shirt, Polo shirt, Sweat-shirt,Golf shirt, Cardigan, jogging suit,Short/Trouser,
Legging Tank Tops, Children wear, Jogging
suits, Fashion dress and Children wear etc.
Byer Name :Olymp, D.H, Casa Moda, Metro, Garcia, Calvinetc.
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2.1 Achievement
Cotton USA Licensee Certified By, WRAP
Certified By, Oeko-Tex Certified By, Oeko-Tex
Location Layout
PURBANI
Nurbag, Mouchak, Kaliakoir
PEPSI
(Industries)
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‘MOHONA’
Cinema Hall
Gazipur Bypass
West
South North
East
Plant Layout of PURBANI
Main Gate
Office
Karim Textiles Ltd. Room
( 8 storied building)
Purba Gene
ni rator
Fabric &
s Ltd. Boiler
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(Dyei Room
ng
Purb
ani
Yarn
Dyei
ng
Ltd.
Purbani Fabrics Ltd.
(Knitting Section 8 storied
building)
ᶟ
ETP (Capacity-2400m )
ETP (Capacity-1200m ) ᶟ Under construction
2.2 Sister Concern of Purbani Fabrics Ltd.
1. Purbani Fabrics Ltd.
2. Karim Spinning Mills Ltd.
3. Shohagpur Textile Mills Ltd.
4. Purbani Synthetic Spinning Ltd.
5. Purbani Rotor Spinning Ltd.
6. Purbani Yarn Dyeing Ltd.
7. Karim Textiles Ltd.
8. Purbani Traders.
9. Purbani Food & Beverage Ltd.
10. Purbani Fisheries.
2.3 Upper Level Organizational Structure of Purbani Fabrics Ltd.
Chairman & Managing
director
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Directors
Production Marketing & Utility
Merchandising
Remarks: Elaborate organgram will be added in each section.
Knitting Section
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3. Knitting Section
Layout of Knitting Section
WEST
4’Th Floor
Yarn Package
Circular Knitting
Air compressor
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Safety Equipment
Office Room
S N
O O
U R
T T
EAST
3.1Organogram of Knitting section in Purbani Fabrics Ltd:
Knitting Manager
Knitting Assistance
Manager
Knitting Master
Production Master
Production Officer
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Knitting Incharge
Knitting Supervisor
Knitting Technician
Knitting Operator
Knitting Helper
Knitting Cleaner
3.2Yarns:
Yarns are the most important part of a Textile industry. Yarn is a generic term for a
continuous strand of textile fibers, filaments or material in a form suitable for knitting,
weaving or otherwise intertwining to form a textile fabric. Yarn occurs in the
following forms:
Number of fibers twisted together.
Number of filaments lay together without twist.
Number of filaments lay together with a degree of twist.
Single filament with or without twist.
A narrow strip of material.
3.2.1 Counts of Yarns Used:
Count is an important parameter for the manufacture and processing of fabrics as it
indicates the fineness of the yarn. Finer or more count yarns produce finer fabrics and
coarser or less count yarns produce coarser fabrics.
Normally the counts of yarns used in the DIVINE Knitting section are given below:
Cotton: 20/1, 24/1, 26/1, 28/1, 30/1, 34/1, 40/1 Ne
PC: 20/1, 26/1, 28/1, 30/1 Ne
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CVC: 26/1, 30/1, 34/1 Ne
Mélange: 20/1, 22/1, 26/1, 30/1 Ne
Spandex: 40D, 70D
Polyester: 75D, 150D
Sewing thread: 40/2, 150D etc.
3.2.2 Yarn LOT( Specification Card):
The yarn lot specification card contains the following information:
Yarn Count- 30/CARD
Supply-PSML Lot- 04/10
Quantity- 4650.0 kg
Yarn Count- 34/C.
3.2.3 Types of yarns used in PURBANI:
There are various types of yarns used in PURBANI FABRICS LIMITED knitting
section which is discussed below:
Carded Cotton Yarn.
Combed Cotton Yarn.
Slub Cotton Yarn.
50% Cotton & 50% Modal Yarn.
Grey Mélange.
Lycra/Elastane/Spandex Yarn.
CVC (60% Cotton & 40% Polyester) Yarn.
Polyester Yarn.
Cotton Mélange.
Various Cotton Dyed Yarn.
PC (60% Polyester & 40% Cotton) Yarn.
Viscose Yarn.
Carded Slub Yarn.
3.2.4 Characteristics of various types of Yarn:
There are various types of yarns which are formed of various types of fibers and
demonstrate various properties. The varieties of yarns used in PURBANI are
discussed below:
Carded Yarn:
A fibrous cotton yarn or cotton blend yarn made of short staple cotton fiber from
which most of the impurities have been removed by various processes of carding and
drawing.
Combed Yarn:
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A fibrous cotton yarn which is combed and the fibers are long with small diameter is
called Combed Yarn.
Slub Cotton Yarn:
The cotton yarn which contains irregularity of thick and thin places in the yarn in
continuous bases is termed as Slub Cotton Yarn.
50% Cotton & 50% Modal Yarn:
The yarn which is a mixture of 50% cotton fiber and 50% Modal fiber is termed as
50%Cotton& 50%Modal Yarn. Modal is mainly an artificial fiber which has a similar
appearance to silk.
Grey Mélange:
The yarn which is a mixture of maximum 15% viscose fiber and 85% cotton fiber is
known as Grey Mélange yarn.
Lycra/ Elastane/ Spandex yarn:
A yarn which shows elastic properties and which is formed of polyurethane/
polyamide fibers is known as Elastane/Lycra/Spandex yarn.
CVC yarn:
CVC yarn is a yarn which means Chief Value Cotton and consists of 55% /60% /65%
of cotton fiber and 45%/ 40%/ 35% of polyester fiber.
Polyester Yarn:
Such type of yarn which is made from polymers produced from melt spinning of
ethylene glycol and teripthelic acid.
Cotton Mélange:
A yarn which consists of 15% black dyed yarn and 85% of grey cotton yarn and
spanned to form a yarn is called Cotton mélange.
Viscose Yarn:
Such type of yarn which is formed of spinning of viscose rayon fiber is called Viscose
Yarn.
PC (60% Polyester & 40% Cotton) Yarn:
Such yarns which are formed by blending 60% polyester fiber and 40% cotton fiber
through various processes. It is also known as Anthra Mélange.
3.2.5 Types of raw material:
Yarn: Carded Yarn
Combed Yarn
Cotton Modal
Cotton + Viscose
Cotton Yarn Cone
Spun Yarn: 1oo% Polyester
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Lycra
3.2.6 Source of yarn for knitting:
Seria Name of the spinning Mills
l No
1 Karim Spinning Mills ltd.
2 Square Yarns ltd.
3 Badsha Textiles ltd.
4 Shamsuddin Spinning Mills ltd.
5 CRC Textile Mills ltd.
6 Syed Spinning and Cotton Mills ltd.
7 Amber Cotton Mills ltd.
8 Keya Spinning Mills ltd.
9 M.S.M.L
10 Rising Spinning Mills ltd.
11 Karim Spinning Mills ltd.
3.2.7 Different yarn and count For Knitting:
SL/No Yarn Type Composition Yarn Count
01 Carded Yarn 100% Cotton 10s, 12s, 16s, 20s, 20/2, 22s, 24s, 26s,28s, 30, 32s,
34s,
02 Combed Yarn 100% Cotton 20s, 22s, 24s, 26s, 28s, 30s, 32s, 34s, 36s, 40s,
50s, 60s.
03 G/M (Viscose %) 1%, 2%, 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 30%, 40%
04 Spun Yarn 100% Polyester 36D, 70D, 72D, 75D,
05 PC Polyster + 24s, 26s, 28s,30s, 32s, 34s,
Cotton
06 CVC Cotton + 24s, 26s, 28s, 30s, 34s, 36s, 40s
Polyester
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07 C/M Cotton 50% + 26s, 28s, 30s,
Polyester 50%
08 Lycra Synthetic 20D, 40D, 70D,
3.3Fabrics Produced in Purbani Fabrics Ltd:
Single Jersey.
Single Lacost.
Double Lacost.
Double Pk.
Heavy Jersey.
Rib Fabrics.(1/1, 2/1)
Lycra rib (1/1, 2/1)
Plain Interlock.
Single Jersey full feeder lycra.
Single Jersey half feeder lycra.
Single lacust half feeder lycra.
Teri fabrics.
Flat knit collar.
Fleece fabric.
Cos Fleece.
Birds eye.
Mini eye let.
Eye let.
Interlock Pk.
Wofelet.
3.4Flow process of knitting section:
Yarn bobbin from storage stage
Yarn selection
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Attaching bobbin to bobbin stand
Knitting of Yarns to circular knitting machines
Knitted fabrics rolling in the take-up roller
Detaching fabric rolls from the rollers
Inspection of the knitted fabrics
Batching of the knitted fabrics
Storing of the knitted fabrics
3.5Flat Knitting Section:
Generally collar and cuff of knitted garments is produced in this section there are flat
knitting machines of the same type. There specifications of the machines are given
below:
Place of Origin Taiwan
Brand Name JY LEH
Model Number JL-303
Knitting Style Flat
Computerized Yes
Available 41 pieces
Features:
Programs are stored in I/C card and can be input to other machines.
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The machine can compile the program input by keyboard without other
auxiliary equipment.
It is adjustable for knitting width without any location limit.
Feature of single carriage can knit wide or narrow textile of best quality.
Specifications:
Model JL-303
Gauge 7, 8, 10, 12, 14 and 16G
40"(101cm), 52"(132cm),
Bed Width
68"(172cm)
Carriage
100-120 cm/sec
Speed
Knitting
Can be set freely
Width
Yarn feeder Single feeder
Cam Driving Solenoid driving
Stitch Density
0-99 stepping motor
Yarn Colors 6 colors, both side changeable
Racking 1/2 P x 1 section, 1P x 5 section
H-needle tuck, L-needle tuck, all
Rahben
needle tuck
Needles used High and low butt
Take Down Automatic auxiliary roller moves
Roller with fabric take-down
Direct input from keyboard,
Data input
memory by I/C card
1/2HP, 3 phase, AC motor by
Driving
frequency converter control
Language English and Chinese are available.
Power 220V, 50/60Hz, single phase
80 x 234 x 185 (cm) / L.W.H for
Dimension
52"
Specifications and appearance may
change without notices
Collar:L: 45-50 cm * W:09-10cm * T:3/4/5 ply, 35-45 pcs /Kg(Depends on count,
ply of Yarn and tension of knitting.
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Cuff: L: 37-39 * W:3.8-4.0cm * T:2/3/4 ply, 60-70 pcs /Kg(Depends on count, ply of
yarn and tension of knitting.
Factor should be considered in production:
There should follow several factor when set the program according to buyer
requirements.
a) Ply of Yarn
b) Width of Collar or Cuff
c) Stitch Length
d) Type of Collar & Cuff (e.g. - Fancy, Tripping, Solid etc.)
3.6Singlejersey Circular Knitting Machine:
Manufacturing Year
Cylinder Diameter
Machine Model
Manufacturer
Machine NO
Safety RPM
Feeders
Needles
Gauge
1 RUNSHAN 16’’ 48 24G RS 1392 24 2008
(Made in
China)
2 RUNSHAN 17’’ 51 28G RS 1488 24 2008
(Made in
China)
3 RUNSHAN 19’’ 55 28G RS 1680 24 2008
(Made in
China)
4 RUNSHAN 18’’ 54 28G RS 1584 24 2008
(Made in
China)
5 RUNSHAN 30’’ 30 28G RS 2640 24 2008
(Made in
China)
6 RUNSHAN 34’’ 102 28G RS 2990 24 2009
(Made in
China)
7 FALMAC 24’’ 72 24G FSB 3×SK 1810 24 1998
( Made in
Singapore)
8 FALMAC 21’’ 63 24G FSB 3×SK 1583 24 1999
( Made in
Singapore)
9 FALMAC 23’’ 69 24G FSB 3×SK 1734 24 1998
( Made in
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Singapore)
10 FALMAC 25’’ 75 24G FSB 3×SK 1885 24 1999
( Made in
Singapore)
11 FALMAC 22’’ 66 24G FSB 3×SK 1659 24 1998
( Made in
Singapore)
12 FALMAC 20’’ 60 24G FSB 3×SK 1508 24 1999
( Made in
Singapore)
13 FALMAC 19’’ 57 24G PN 3×SK 1433 24 2000
( Made in
Singapore)
14 FALMAC 17’’ 51 24G PN3SK-15 1282 24 2000
( Made in
Singapore)
15 FALMAC 26’’ 78 24G PN 3×SK 1960 24 2000
( Made in
Singapore)
16 FALMAC 20’’ 84 24G PN3SK-15 1507 24 2006
( Made in
Singapore)
17 FALMAC 23’’ 69 28G PN3SK-15 2023 24 2006
( Made in
Singapore)
18 FALMAC 18’’ 54 24G PN3SK-15 1357 24 2006
( Made in
Singapore)
19 Mayer &Cie 16’’ 51 28G MV4-3.2 1408 24 2002
(Made in
Germany)
20 Mayer &Cie 16’’ 51 28G MV4-3.2 904 24 2002
(Made in
Germany)
21 Mayer &Cie 30’’ 96 28G RELANIT411 2639 24 2002
(Made in
Germany)
22 Mayer &Cie 30’’ 96 28G RELANIT411 2639 24 2002
(Made in
Germany)
23 Mayer &Cie 30’’ 96 28G RELANIT411 2639 24 2002
(Made in
Germany)
24 Mayer &Cie 30’’ 96 28G RELANIT411 2639 24 2002
(Made in
Germany)
25 Mayer &Cie 30’’ 96 28G RELANIT411 2639 24 2002
(Made in
Germany)
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26 Mayer &Cie 30’’ 96 28G RELANIT411 2639 24 2002
(Made in
Germany)
27 JIUNN LONG 34’’ 102 24G JLS-C 2544 13 2012
Machine Co.
Ltd(Taiwan)
28 JIUNN LONG 34’’ 102 24G JLS-C 2544 13 2012
Machine Co.
Ltd(Taiwan)
29 JIUNN LONG 34’’ 102 24G JLS-C 2544 13 2012
Machine Co.
Ltd(Taiwan)
30 JIUNN LONG 36’’ 108 24G JLS-2 2712 13 2012
Machine Co.
Ltd(Taiwan)
31 JIUNN LONG 36’’ 108 24G JLS-2 2712 13 2012
Machine Co.
Ltd(Taiwan)
32 JIUNN LONG 36’’ 108 24G JLS-2 2712 13 2012
Machine Co.
Ltd(Taiwan)
33 Mayer &Cie 30’’ 96 28G RELANIT411 2639 24 2002
(Made in
Germany)
34 Mayer &Cie 30’’ 96 28G RELANIT411 2639 24 2002
(Made in
Germany)
35 Mayer &Cie 30’’ 96 28G RELANIT411 2639 24 2002
(Made in
Germany)
36 Mayer &Cie 30’’ 96 28G RELANIT411 2639 24 2002
(Made in
Germany)
37 Mayer &Cie 30’’ 192 28G RELANIT1.6 2639 24 2002
(Made in R
Germany)
38 Mayer &Cie 30’’ 192 28G RELANIT1.6 2639 24 2002
(Made in R
Germany)
39 Mayer &Cie 30’’ 96 28G RELANIT411 2639 24 2002
(Made in
Germany)
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3.7Double Jersey Circular knitting Machine:
Cylinder Diameter
Machine Model
Manufacturing
Manufacturer
Machine NO
Safety RPM
Feeders
Needles
Gauge
Year
01 Mayer &Cie 12’’ 23 18G FV 2.0 2×684 24 2002
(Made in
Germany)
02 Mayer &Cie 14’’ 29 18G FV 2.0 2×792 24 2002
(Made in
Germany)
03 Mayer &Cie 16’’ 33 18G FV 2.0 2×900 24 2002
(Made in
Germany)
04 Mayer &Cie 16’’ 33 18G FV 2.0 2×900 24 2002
(Made in
Germany)
05 Mayer &Cie 18’’ 37 18G FV 2.0 2×1008 24 2002
(Made in
Germany)
06 Mayer &Cie 18’’ 37 18G FV 2.0 2×1008 24 2002
(Made in
Germany)
07 Mayer &Cie 30’’ 96 24G OV 3.2 QC 2×2268 24 2002
(Made in
Germany)
08 Mayer &Cie 30’’ 96 24G OV 3.2 QC 2×2268 24 2002
(Made in
Germany)
09 Mayer &Cie 30’’ 96 24G OV 3.2 2×2268 24 2000
(Made in
Germany)
10 Mayer &Cie 30’’ 96 24G OV 3.2 2×2268 24 2000
(Made in
Germany)
11 Mayer &Cie 30’’ 96 24G OV 3.2 2×2268 24 2000
(Made in
Germany)
12 Mayer &Cie 30’’ 60 18G FHG11 2×1680 24 2002
(Made in
Germany)
13 Mayer &Cie 24’’ 54 18G FV 2.0 2×1476 24 2002
(Made in
Germany)
14 Mayer &Cie 24’’ 50 18G FV 2.0 2×1344 18 2002
(Made in
Germany)
15 Mayer &Cie 22’’ 45 18G FV 2.0 2×1248 18 2002
(Made in
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Germany)
16 Mayer &Cie 20’’ 41 18G FV 2.0 2×1128 24 2002
(Made in
Germany)
17 Mayer &Cie 30’’ 96 24G OV 3.2 2×2268 24 2002
(Made in
Germany)
Remarks:
Production runswith the help of mechanical fitters. For any kind of mechanical fault of
any machine the fix and work under technical in charge. Production officers take
account of daily production by running after the supervisor and workers so on.
3.8Process flow chart of knitting:
Sample fabric
Design analysis
Machine selection
Setting the machine for the specific design
Yarn in cone form
Feeding the yarn cone in the creel
Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip-tape positive feeding arrangement and
tension devices
Knitting
Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting
Inspection
Numbering
3.9Description of Production Process:
In every mill, there maintains a sequences in production processing. It is also followed
in this mill where we were in industrial attachment. The process sequences are in list
below:
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I. Firstly, knitting manager gets a production shit from the merchandiser as
accordance as consumer requirements then he informs or orders
production officer about it.
II. Production officer informs technical in charge and knows about machine
in which the production will be running.
III. Technical in charge calls for leader of mechanical fitter troops, they two
take decision about machine for production considering machine
condition, production capacity, maintenance complexity, etc.
IV. Production officer with experienced mechanical fitter adjusts required
stitch length and grey GSM for required final GSM.
V. Supervisor checks daily production regularity and make operator
conscious about finishing tin due time.
VI. Operators operate machine in high attention as if there were no faults in
the fabrics. If he thinks or sure about any fabric fault, then he calls for the
mechanical fitters in duty. Mechanical fitter then fixes it if he can or he
informs technical in charge. Then he comes in spot.
VII. After required production and final inspection in 4-point system, they sent
in dyeing section.
3.9.1 Production Parameters:
1. Machine Diameter;
2. Machine rpm (revolution per minute);
3. No. of feeds or feeders in use;
4. Machine Gauge;
5. Count of yarn;
6. Required time (M/C running time);
7. Machine running efficiency.
3.9.2 Relationship between knitting parameters:
1. Stitch length increase with the increase of GSM.
2. If stitch length increase then fabric width increase and WPI decrease.
3. If machine gauge increase then fabric width decrease.
4. If yarn count increase (courser) then fabric width increase.
5. If shrinkage increases then fabric width decrease but GSM and WPI increase.
6.For finer gauge, finer count yarn should use.
7. Grey GSM should be less than finish GSM.
3.10Considerable points to produce knit fabric:
Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider. These
includes-
Type of Fabric or design of Fabric.
Finished G.S.M.
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Yarn count
Types of yarn (combed or carded)
Diameter of the fabric.
Stitch length
Color depth.
3.11G.S.M
It is technical term that indicates the weight of the fabric per square meter.
Points considered while setting grey GSM:
Enzyme level
Color
Suided or non- suided
Changing of GSM:
Major control by VDQ pulley.
Minor control by stitch length adjustment.
Altering the position of the tension pulley changes the G.S.M. of the fabric. If
pulley moves towards the positive directive then the G.S.M. is decrease. And in
the reverse direction G.S.M will increase.
3.12Factors that should be changed in case of fabric design:
Cam setting
Set of needle
Size of loop shape
3.13Effect of stitch length of color depth:
If the depth of color of the fabric is high loop length should be higher because in case
of fabric with higher loop length is less compact. In dark shade dye take up% is high
so GSM is adjusted then. Similarly in case of light shade loop length should be
relatively smaller.
3.14Methods of increasing production:
By the following methods the production of knitted fabric can be increased –
1. By increasing m/c speed:
Higher the m/c speed faster the movement of needle and ultimately production will be
increased. But it has to make sure that excess tension is not imposed on yarn because
of this high speed.
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2. By increasing the number of feeder:
If the number of feeder is increased in the circumference of cylinder, then the number
of courses will be increased in one revolution at a time.
3. By using machine of higher gauge:
The more the machine gauge, the more the production is. So by using machine of
higher gauge production can be increased.
4. By imposing automation in the m/c:
a) Quick starting & stopping for efficient driving system.
b) Automatic m/c lubrication system for smoother operation.
c) Photo electric fabric fault detector.
5. By imposing other developments:
a) Using creel-feeding system.
b) Applying yarn supply through plastic tube that eliminates the
possibilities of yarn damage.
c) Using yarn feed control device.
3.15Faults and their causes in knitting:
Hole mark:
Causes:
Buckling of the needle latch
Buckling the sinker
Higher G.S.M
Star mark:
Causes:
Buckling of the needle latch.
Yarn tension variation during production.
Low G.S.M.
Oil spot/Grease spot:
Causes:
Excess oil/Grease use.
Jamming of needle & sinker.
Patta:
Causes:
Yarn comes from different lot.
Faulty cam use in the m/c.
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Needle mark:
Causes:
Faulty needle use in the m/c.
Sinker mark:
Causes:
Faulty sinker use in the m/c
Fabric Shrinkage:
Causes:
Yarn twist Twist Shrinkage
Knitting tension
Fabric G.S.M. ` G.S.M. Shrinkage
3.16 Collection of faulted knitted fabric:
Hole Setup
Lycra out Oil or grease spot
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Needle mark Vertical stripe
3.17 Different Fabric GSM and Their Yarn Count:
A. S/J without lycra -
Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count
110 – 120 40 S – 36 S
120 – 130 36 S - 32 S
130 – 140 32 S – 28 S
140 – 150 28 S
150 – 160 26 S
170 – 210 24 S
B. Rib without lycra -
Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count
180 – 190 36 S - 32 S
190 – 200 30 S
200 – 215 28 S
215 – 230 26 S
230 – 250 24 S
250 – 300 24 S
C. Interlock without lycra -
Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count
200 – 220 34 S
220 – 230 32 S
230 – 250 30 S
250 – 300 26 S
D. Lacoste without lycra -
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Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count
180 – 190 30 S
190 – 210 28 S
210 – 230 26 S
230 – 250 26 S
E. 40D Lycra Rib -
Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count
230 – 240 32 S
240 – 250 30 S
250 – 280 26 S
280 – 300 24 S
F. 40D Lycra S/J –
Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count
180 – 190 34 S
190 – 210 32 S
210 – 220 30 S
220 – 240 28 S
240 – 250 26 S
3.18Different Parts of Knitting Machine:
Creel:Creel is used to place the cone.
Feeder:Feeder is used to feed the yarn.
Tensioning device:Tensioning device is used to give proper tension to the yarn.
VDQ pulley:VDQ pulley is used to control the GSM by controlling the stitch length.
Guide:Guide is used to guide the yarn.
Sensor:Sensor is used to seen & the machine stops when any problem occurs.
Spreader:Spreader is used to spread the knitted fabric before take up roller.
Take up roller:Take up roller is used to take up the fabric
Fixation feeder: These types of feeder are used in Electrical Auto Striper Knitting
Machineto feed the yarn at specific finger.
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3.19Introduction to Quality Assurance System:
After collecting fabric rolls from different machines, these fabrics need to inspect
thoroughly by the quality inspectors to assure required quality before dyeing. Quality
assurance of knitted grey fabric is described here.
3.20 Some points are needed for maintaining high quality fabric:
a) Brought good quality yarn.
b) Machines are oiled and greased accordingly.
c) G.S.M, Stitch length, Tensions are controlled accurately.
d) Machines are cleaned every shift and servicing is done after a month.
e) Grey Fabrics are checked by 4 point grading system.
3.21List of Equipment for quality control:
The list of equipment’s to assure quality:-
a) Inspection m/c.
b) Electronic balance.
c) GSM cutter.
d) Measuring tape.
e) Scissors.
f) Indication sticker.
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3.22 Quality Assurance Property:
A. Body & rib inspection:
All rolls are kept in front of the inspection m/c time to time and are inspected
over the inspection m/c visually in a pre-set speed against light. For any major or
minor faults like thick-thin, barre mark, fall out, contamination, fly, holes, oil lines,
needle line, slubsetc are recorded in inspection report to classify the fabric. Here four
points system is used in inspection system.
B. Collar & cuff inspection:
Collar& cuff are inspected visually under the light box, any major or minor
fault in collar/cuff like having wrong ply, hole, needle line, slubs, wrong design, first
round problem etc properly counted and recorded.
3.23 Quality Standard:
Purbani Fabrics Ltd.maintains the ISO: 9001:2000 standards in case of quality.
Therefore, the four points system is followed to inspect the body & rib fabric. The
defects found and points given against are recorded in the inspection sheet. Following
table shows the four point grading system followed by inspection atPurbani Fabrics
Ltd.
Four (4) - Point system for knitting fault inspection:
Knitting fault Point
Slub 1
Any hole 4
Needle/Sinker line 4
Needle breakage(upto 10) 4
Press off 4
Thick, Thin, Dirt, Oil spot, Contamination up to 3" in 1
length
Thick, Thin, Dirt, Oil spot, Contamination up to 6" in 2
length
Thick, Thin, Dirt, Oil spot, Contamination up to 9" in 3
length
Thick, Thin, Dirt, Oil spot, Contamination above 9" in 4
length
Quality (points per 100 square meters):
Total point X GSM
Roll weight X 10
Quality Classification:
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1 2 3
<20 20 - 30 >30
OK Ask Reject
3.24Production Calculation:
A. Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency
RPM × No . of Feeder × No . of Needle × SL(mm)
=
3527 .80× Yarn count
B. Production/shift in meter
Course /min .
=
Course /cm
RPM ×No. of Feeder×60×12×Efficiency
=
Course /cm×100
C. Fabric width in meter:
Total no . of wales
=
Wales/cm×100
Total no . of Needlesused in knitting
=
Wales/cm×100
D. Calculation for total number of needle of a machine = G × D × π
Here,
G = Machine gauge
D = Machine diameter
E. From finish G.S.M calculating grey GSM, SL, count:
Suppose a fabric involve 180 finishes G.S.M
FinishG .S .M 180
=138
So, gray G.S.M= 1 .3 = 1. 3
4320 4320
=
So, count= F .G .S. M = 180 24/s
95351 .5 95351 .5
= =28 . 78
So, S.L = count×G. GSM 24×138 cm=2.9 mm
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F. Calculation of S.L where yarns count = 24:
→ S.L=16.66d
1
=16.66 28 √ count
1
=16.66 28 √24 =.308 cm =3.08mm
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3.25PHOTO GALLERY:
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3.26 Sample Collection:
Single Jersey(Normal) Single Jersey Stripe
Single Jersey Auto Stripe Single Jersey Full Feeder
Lycra
Single Jersey Melange 1/1 Rib
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Sample Collection:
Lacost 2/2 Rib
Interlock Plain Interlock Pk
Fleece Single Jersey Polyester
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Mesh Fabric
BATCHING
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4. Batching Section
4.1Layout of Batching Section:
Grey Fabric Grey Fabric Air
Inspection m/c Inspection m/c Turning
No-1 m/c
No-2
4.2Grey Fabric Inspection:
The inspection and grading of fabric quality is one of the important functions of
Quality Control in the grey or finished state, the grading of fabric is a difficult task,
taking two primary considerations: as the frequency of effects and the seriousness of
defects.
The grading has two primary functions: First, to classify the fabrics according to
standard qualities based on the end-use and costumer demands and second, to supply
information as to the qualities actually being produced.
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Grey Fabric Inspection
The Knitted fabric can be classified into three levels of quality, each one have a
number of points for defects as follows.
The First quality level 40 points per 100 Linear Yards.
The Second quality level (40 – 80) points per 100 Linear Yards.
The Third quality level 80 points or more per 100 Linear Yards.
4.3General Instructions for the final inspection:
a) All pieces will be graded on the base of 40 points per 100 Linear yards
Mapping will be done on each piece to insure proper grading. Do not count
more than 4 points per one yard.
b) All defects must be recorded and marked in final inspection and an accurate
account of points made to insure proper grading.
c) All fabric must meet specifications.
d) At the end of each piece of fabric, the inspector will add up total points and
decide whether the piece can be shipped as first quality or not, reworked,
placed in lower quality, or cut and upgraded for shipment. Fifteen yards or
more can be shipped as first quality.
e) The quality control supervisor must approve the grading of all quality levels
and check the lower quality.
f) Major or unsightly defects in the first and last yard of a roll or piece will be
cut. All defects of one yard length or more will be cut out of the piece.
Defects within the first 2 inches or the last 2 inches of a piece will not be cut
out or counted in the grading.
g) Open defects on the back of fabric such as drops, runs and hanging picks are
to be included in the grading of fabric.
h) Pieces can be connected together, once each piece must be the same shade.
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i) All defects such as runs that extend more than a yard in length will be cut out.
j) Fabric up to 70 inches will be allowed a bow of not more than 1 inch and a
Bias of not more than 2 inches.
k) Defects within one inch of the fabric edge will not be counted except on
tubular fabrics. All defects will be counted in tubular goods.
4.4Grading procedure:
a) All open defects or major defects counted with 4 points per defect.
b) Surface defects over 9 inch length counted with 4 points per defect.
c) Surface defects 6 to 9 inches length counted with 3 points per defect.
d) Surface defects 3 to 6 inches length counted with 2 points per defect.
e) Surface defects up to 3 inches length counted with one point per defect.
f) Running defects, such as tucks, needle lines, barre, crack marks, are judgment
defects
Batching is the process to get ready the fabrics which should be dyed and processed
for a particular lot of a particular order.
4.5Object of Batching:
To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source.
Turn the grey fabric if require.
To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria –
Order sheet (Received from buyer)
Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark)
M/C capacity
M/C available
Type of fabrics(100% cotton, PET, PC, CVC)
Emergency
To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.
To keep records for every previous dyeing.
4.6Proper batching criteria:
To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c.
To minimize the washing time or preparation time & m/c stoppage time.
To keep the no. of batch as less as possible for same shade.
To use a particular m/c for dyeing same shade.
4.7Batch management:
Primarily batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above criteria under
consideration. Batch section in charge receives this primary batch plan from dyeing
manager. Some time planning is adjusted according to m/c condition or emergency.
4.8M/cs in batch section:
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No. of M/c : 01
Machine name : Air turning machine
Origin : KOREA
No. of M/c : 02
Machine name : Fabric Inspection machine
Origin : KOREA
Dyeing Lab Section
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5. Dyeing Lab Section
5.1 Organogram of color lab:
Lab Manager
Lab Incharge
Asst. Incharge
Shift Incharge
Technician
Lab Assistance
LAB DIP Development
5.2 Definition:
LAB dip development means the sample which is dyed according to buyer’s
requirements (similar shade and so on). Depending on lab dip development sample
dyeing and bulk production the dyeing planning done.
5.3 Objective of Lab Dip:
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The main objectives in LAB dip are as follows:
To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing.
To compare dyed sample with swatch by light Box or Spectroflash.
To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing.
Finally approved Lab Dip (Grade: A B C).
5.4 Development of Dip:
Receiving standard swatch
Spectrophotometer reading
Recipe start up software
Startup recipe given
Manual dispersion (pipetting)
Pot dyeing
Unload
Normal wash
Acid wash
Hot wash
Cold Rinsing
Drying
5.5 Color measurement of standard Sample:
Color measurement is mainly done for the purpose of shade matching as perfectly as
possible. Shade matching of the produced sample with the standard one is
compulsory. Color measurement can be done by two methods –
Color measurement
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Manual method Instrumental method
Manual Method:
In manual method, the standard sample’s color is measured by comparing it with
previously produced samples of different tri-chromatic color combination. The sample
with which the color of the standard matched, that sample’s color recipe is being taken
for shade matching .This method’s accuracy completely depends on the vision of the
person related to it but person must be needed gather experience about color matching.
Instrumental method:
The instrumental method is more reliable if it is operated accurately to do the work of
color measurement. “Spectrophotometer”(Data color) interfaced with a PC is used for
shade matching .This instrument works with the principle of reflectance measurement
of light at different wave length. When the standard sample is being subjected under
spectrophotometer, then the instrument suggest a recipe with required tri-chromatic
colors within the tolerance limit of color difference. In this way, color measurement of
the standard sample is carried out for the purpose of shade matching.
5.6 Preparation and storage of stock dyes:
Preparation of Concentration of stock dye soln -
[
Normally 0.1%, 0.5%, 1%, 1.5%, 2% and 4% stock solution of dyes are prepared in
beakers for daily used.
Preparation of Concentration of stock chemical soln-
Similarly 25% salt and 25% soda stock solutions are prepared in beakers for daily use.
5.7 Types of Pipette:
0.1ml
0.2ml
0.5ml
1.0ml
2.0ml
5.0ml
10ml
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20ml
5.8Dyes and chemicals measuring formula for lab:
The amount of dye solution (ml) is calculated as follow -
Fabric weight * Shade %
n
Amount of dye sol (ml) = ----------------------------------------
Concentration of stock dye sol n %
Example –
In recipe, Fabric wt. = 5gm
Shade % = 2%
[ If used 0. 5 % stock solnof dyes ] then ,
5*2
n
Amount of dye sol (ml) = --------- = 20ml .
0. 5
The amount of chemical soln (ml) is measured as follow -
Fabric wt. * M : L * g/l
n
Amount of chemical sol (ml) = --------------------------------------
1000 * Conc. of stock sol n%
Example –
In recipe, Fabric wt. = 5 gm
Salt = 20 g/l
M: L = 10
[ If taken 25 % stock soln of salt] then ,
5 * 10 * 20
n
Amount of chemical sol (ml) = --------------------- = 4 ml
1000 * 0.25
5.9 Machineries for lab dip:
Types Water Heater
Mach
Brand Fongs
M/C No SDM2-12-140
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i SER NO 93-10-017
n Volt 415
e Amp. 13
N Origin Hongkong
o
-
1
Types Dry Iron
Machine No-2
Brand Sebec
Model SDI-8
SER NO 93-10-017
Volt 220-240 volts(50-60Hz)
Origin China
Types Sample Dyeing Machine
Machine No-3
Brand Datacolor AHIBA IR™
Model SDI-8
SER NO 93-10-017
Volt 220-240 volts(50-60Hz)
Origin USA
Types Sample Dyeing Machine
Machine No-4
Brand ECO Datacolor AHIBA
NUANCE
Model SDI-8
SER NO 93-10-017
Volt 220-240 volts(50-60Hz)
Origin USA
Types Spectrophotometer
Machine No-5
Brand Datacolor
Model SDI-8
SER NO 93-10-017
Volt 220-240 volts(50-60Hz)
Origin USA
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Types CMC(Light Box)
Machine No-5
Brand Verivide
Light-1 TL84
Light-2 -D65
Light-3 -Florescent
Light-4 -Ultraviolet (UV)
5.10 Salt and Soda for 30% stock solution:
Salt and Soda (g/l) Salt & Soda Solution (C.C)
4 0.53
5 0.67
6 0.80
7 0.93
8 1.07
10 1.33
12 1.60
14 1.87
15 2.00
17 2.27
18 2.40
20 2.65
25 3.30
30 4.00
40 5.33
50 6.70
60 8.00
70 9.30
80 10.66
100 13.30
5.11 For production:
S/L SHADE % SALT SODA
01 0.001-0.1 12 5
02 0.1-0.5 15 6
03 0.5-1.0 20 7
04 1.0-1.5 30 8
05 1.5-3.0 40 9
06 3.0-4.0 50 10
07 4.0-7.0 60 13
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5.12 Procedure of Lab dips:
For 100% cotton fabric (all in one method):
Fabric weight measured by electric balance.
Calculate the recipe.
Keep the fabric in the pot.
Then required amount of dyes, water, salt, soda and other chemicals are taken
to the pot by pipeting.
Start the program for dyeing. The dyeing time and temperature depend on types
of dyes being used.
Program – 1: For light shade
Fixed temperature = 600c
Time = 60 min.
Program – 2: For dark shade
Fixed temperature = 800c
Time = 60 min.
After finished the dyeing time then cold wash two times.
Acid wash for neutralization.
Then soaping by required soap solution for 10 min. at 950c.
Cold wash then drying the lab dip and compare with the standard.
For Polyester/cotton blend fabric (all in one method):
Fabric weight measured by electric balance.
Calculate the recipe for polyester part.
Keep the fabric in the pot.
Then required amount of dyes, water, dispersing agent, acetic acid and
sodium acetate are taken to the pot by pipeting.
Start the program for dyeing. The dyeing time and temperature are carried out
for 30 min. at 1300c.
After finished the dyeing time then cold wash two times.
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Then reduction clearing by hydrous, caustic & detergent for 20 min at 700c.
Cold wash then drying and match with the standardsample.
Again,
Calculate the recipe for cotton part.
Keep the fabric in the pot.
Then required amount of dyes, water, salt, soda and other chemicals are taken
to the pot by pipetting .
Start the program for dyeing. The dyeing time and temperature depends on
what types of dyes are being used.
Then soaping by required soap solution for 10 min. at 950c.
Cold wash then drying the lab dip and compare with the standard sample.
Program –01:
Fixed temp. = 600c
Time = 60 min.
Program – 02 :
Fixed temp. = 800c
Time = 60 min.
5.13 PHOTO GALLERY
Spector photo-meter
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Sample dyeing machine
5.14 Collection of swatch shade with recipe:
Swatch shade-1
Recipe Amount
S.Yellow S4GL 1.2 ml
R.Yellow RR 0.32 ml
Ev.T.B.G 0.042 ml
Salt 30 g/l
Soda 10 g/l
Swatch shade-2
Recipe Amount
R.Yellow RR 0.50 ml
R.Red RR 0.009 ml
R Blue RR 0.002 ml
Salt 20 g/l
Soda 7 g/l
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Swatch shade-3
Recipe Amount
R.Yellow RR 0.044 ml
R.Red RR 0.0088 ml
S. Blue RS 2.86 ml
Salt 40 g/l
Soda 14 g/l
Swatch shade-4
Recipe Amount
R.Yellow RR 1.92 ml
S.Yellow S4GL 1.08 ml
R Blue RR 1.26 ml
Salt 60 g/l
Soda 1g/l
Swatch shade-5
Recipe Amount
Elb.Yellow SB 1.28 ml
Elb. Red SB2B 4.5 ml
Elb. D. Blue SB 0.054 ml
Salt 80 g/l
Soda 20 g/l
Swatch shade-6
Recipe Amount
R.Yellow RR 0.005 ml
R.Red RR 0.003 ml
S.Blue RS 0.10 ml
Salt 15 g/l
Soda 6 g/l
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{
Swatch shade-7
Recipe Amount
S.Yellow SSR 1.1 ml
S.Red SS 1.04 ml
Salt 40 g/l
Soda 14 g/l
Swatch shade-8
Recipe Amount
S. Red. 3BFN 0.15 ml
B.Orange 0.98 ml
Salt 30 g/l
Soda 10 g/l
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Dyeing Section
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6. Dyeing Section
6.1 Organogram of Dyeing & Finishing Section:
Deputy General Manager (DGM)
Asst. Manager (Dyeing) Manager (Finishing)
Dyeing Master Finishing In charge
Dyeing Asst. Master Shift In charge
Shift In Charge Supervisor
Production Officer Operator
Supervisor Helper
Senior Operator
Operator
Helper
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6.2 Layout of dyeing Section:
F. F.
Inspecti Inspecti
on m/c on m/c
AIR TURNING m/C
No-1 No-2
EXIT
DILMENLER (9)
DILMENLER (8)
THIES (7)
Finishing Area
THIES (6)
DILMENLER (5)
DILMENLER (1)
PRANAV (01)
THIES (04)
DYE
ING North
LAB
THIES (03)
& West
OFF East
THIES (02) ICE
South
THIES (01)
BANGLA (05) BANGLA (02)
E
XI
BANGLA (04) BANGLA (03) T
6.3 Raw Materials for Dyeing:
© Daffodil International University Library
The raw materials used for production are-
1. Grey Fabric
2. Dyes and Chemical
6.4 Grey fabrics:
Following types of grey fabrics are dyed –
Single jersey
Interlock
Lacoste
Rib
Lycra rib
1 x 1 rib & others
Collar & cuff
Polyester fabrics etc.
6.5 Sources:
The required grey fabric is produce in this industry.
6.6 Dye & chemicals Used in Purbani Fabrics Ltd.
Aids Chemicals Name Price (kg/tk)
Soda Ash 20
Caustic 37
H202 41
General Chemicals
Hydrose 52
Antifoam-39 400
Gluber Salt (anhydrous) 17
H2S04
Acetic Acid 70-97
Acid
Formic Acid
Oxalic Acid
Cationic Softener 210-230
Anti-crease 140-165
180-200
Fixing 360-400
Buffer 30-160
117-145
Sequestering 110-163
Enzyme 480-550
Stabilizer 145-210
Brightener 289-550
© Daffodil International University Library
6.7 Reactive Dyes:
Serial No Name of Reactive Dyes
1 Sunzol Red S3B
2 Sunfix Red SPD
3 Star fix Red SPD
4 Starfix Yellow 3RFN
5 Boditive Orange
6 Everzol Blue Lx
7 Everzol Blue Lx
8 Starfix Red SS
9 Novacron Yellow S3R
10 NovacronRubby S3B
11 Everzol Yellow Lx
12 Starfix Yellow SSR
13 Sunflix Blue RS
14 Sarfix Black EDHG
15 Remazol Red RGB
16 Remazol Navy RGB
17 Remzol Yellow RGB
18 Elbezol Deep Blue SB
19 Elbezol Deep Blue SB2B
20 Elbezol Yellow SB
21 Remazol Red RR
22 Remazol Yellow RR
23 Remazol Blue RR
24 Starfix Yellow S4GL
25 Everzol Turkish Blue G
© Daffodil International University Library
6.8Disperse Dyes:
Serial No Name of Disperse Dyes
01 CoralineRedBF
02 Coraline Navy MD
03 Coraline Blue 2RX
04 Coraline Yellow 4GNL
05 Coraline Navy MD
06 Coraline Yellow GDR
07 Coraline Red GDB
6.9 Responsibility of production officer:
Overall supervision of dyeing & finishing.
Dyes & chemicals requisition issue & check.
Program making, sample checking color measurement.
Control the supervisor’s operators & helpers of machines.
To give dye-line or the program slip according to daily production plan, batch
preparation & PH check.
To rectify the finished fabric which rejected from quality control department?
To check daily production report.
To study dye & chemicals nature delivery by the manufacture & applied them
correctly to the production to get best product.
6.10 Job Description:
Title: Production officer.
Dept: Dyeing
Report to: Senior production officer.
Job summary: To plan execute & follow up the production activities &
control the quality production with related activities.
6.11 Machine Description:
Machine Type Quantity
Winch dyeing m/c HT&HP 03
Winch dyeing m/c(Sample) 01
Winch dyeing m/c(Atmospheric) 06
Bangla dyeing m/c(Sample) 04
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Machine no:01
Machine name Winch dyeing m/c(Atmospheric)
Brand Thies
Origin Germany
Capacity 200 kg
Nozzle pressure 0.5 bar
Temperature range Up to 980C
Machine no:02
Machine name Winch dyeing m/c
Brand Thies
Origin Turkey
Capacity 400 kg
Nozzle pressure 0.5 bar
Temperature range Up to 980C
Machine no:03
Machine name Winch dyeing m/c
Brand Thies
Origin Germany
Capacity 400 kg
Nozzle pressure 0.5
Temperature range Up to 980C
Machine no:04
Machine name Winch dyeing m/c
Brand Thies
Origin Germany
Capacity 600 kg
Nozzle pressure 0.5 bar
Temperature range Up to 980C
Machine no:05
Machine name HT Winch dyeing m/c
Brand Dilmenler
Origin Turkey
Capacity 900 kg
Pressure 2.5 bar
Temperature range Up to 1350C
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Machine no:06
Machine name Winch dyeing m/c
Brand Thies
Origin Germaany
Capacity 250 kg
Temperature range Up to 980C
Machine no:07
Machine name Winch dyeing m/c(Atmospheric)
Brand Thies
Origin Germany
Capacity 750 kg
Nozzle pressure 0.5 bar
Temperature range Up to 980C
Machine no:08
Machine name HT Winch dyeing m/c
Brand Dilmenler
Origin Turkey
Capacity 600 kg
Nozzle pressure 0.5 bar
Temperature range Up to 980C
Machine no:09
Machine name HT winch Dyeing m/c
Brand Dilmenler
Origin Turkey
Capacity 600 kg
Temperature range Up to 1350C
Machine no:10
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Machine name Pranav Aqua Soft HT & HP soft flow
fabric dyeing machine
Brand Pranav
Origin India
Capacity 25 kg
Temperature range Up to 1350C
Machine no:11
Machine name Sample Dyeing Machine
Brand Bangla
Origin Bangladesh
Capacity 50 kg
Temperature range Up to 980C
Machine no:12
Machine name Sample dyeing m/c
Brand Bangla
Origin Bangladesh
Capacity 50 kg
Temperature range Up to 980C
Machine no:13
Machine name Sample dyeing m/c
Brand Bangla
Origin Bangladesh
Capacity 50kg
Temperature range Up to 980C
Machine no: 14
Machine name Sample dyeing m/c
Brand Bangla
Origin Bangladesh
Capacity 50 kg
Temperature range Up to 980C
6.12 Recipe at different stages in dyeing cotton fabric:
PRETREATMENT
Ingredient Quantity
Detergent (NOF) 0.5 g/l
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Sequestering agent(2UD) 0.5 g/l
Anti-creasing agent (C2G) 1.0 g/l
Soda Ash (Na2CO3) 3.0 g/l
Caustic Soda (NaOH) 1.0 g/l
Hydrogen per oxide (H2O2) 3.0 g/l
Detergent (NOF) 0.2 g/l
Acetic Acid(CH3-COOH) 1.2 g/l
Peroxide killer(Oxilist-P) 0.15 g/l
Enzyme (BT-2) 1.5 g/l
DYEING
Leveling Agent (CL-225) 0.5 g/l
Ladiquist 1.0 g/l
Dyes
Salt 40% owf
Soda 14% owf
AFTER TREAMENT
Acetic acid(CH3-COOH) 1.0 g/l
Color Removing Agent (SP) 1.0 g/l
Fixing Agent (CR) 1.0 g/l
Softener (Q9) 1.0 g/l
Acetic acid 0.2 g/l
RECIPE FOR MACHINE WASH
Ingredient Amount
Detergent (NOF) 0.5 gm/L
Caustic Soda ( NaOH) 1 gm/L
Hydrous 2 gm/L
6.13 Different parameters in dyeing:
A. pH
During peroxide bleaching & scouring 9-11
During enzyme treatment 4.5-5
Before addition of leveling agent 6-6.5
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Before addition of color softener 6-6.5
Before addition of white softener 4.5-5
Softener at stenter& de-watering 5.5-6
Silicon softener 5.5-6
Reactive dyeing 10.5-12
Disperse dyeing 4.5-5.5
B. Temperature
For cotton scouring 95-100˚C
For cotton bleaching 50-60˚C
For cotton hot wash 70-80˚C
For cotton acid wash 60-70˚C
For cotton dyeing 80˚C ( For hot brand)/60˚C(For cold
brand)
C. Time
For scouring and bleaching 60-90 mins
For reactive dyeing 60-90 mins
For disperse dyeing 60-90 mins
6.14 Cotton Dyeing steps with Curve:
Required amount of water was taken into the machine
The fabric was loaded and run for 5-10 minutes in normal temperature
Nof+ 2UD+ C2G were added at a time for 5 minutes
Caustic was added at normal temperature for 5 minutes
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Temperature increased at 600 C
HydrogenperOxide(H2O2)was added for 5 minutes
Temperature increased at 950C and continue for 1 hrs
Sample check
Cold wash at 750C for 5-10 minutes
Hot wash at 900C for 5-10 minutes
Required amount of water was loaded
Enzyme (BT2) was added
Acetic acid was added
Temperature increased at 550C for 60 minutes
Temperature increased at 800C for 5-10 minutes
Cold wash at 400C and drain
Leveling agent is added
Temperature increased at 600C
Run time 10 minutes
Salt dosing
Temperature increased at 600C
Run for 10 min
Color addition
Dosing time 30 min
Temperature increase at 600C for 5 min
Run for 10 min
Soda Ash
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600C for 40 min dosing
Shade check (Shade match/BD)
Rinsing
Wash
Acetic acid was added for neutralization for 10 min
400C temperature
Washing agent
Hot wash at 900C for 90 min
Fixing agent
900C temperature for 10 min dosing
Run time 10min
Cold wash
Drain
Softener
400C for 20 min
100
40
70
80
50
60
90
Temp.(OC )
Fabric Unload
0
20
170= Oxilist-P, Acetic Acid
30 = Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2)
20 = Caustic Soda (NaOH)
10 = NOF, 2UD, C2G(Scouring auxiliaries)
0 = Fabric load
Time of addition for Scouring & Bleaching C
40
60
Scouring & Bleaching
80
100
120
140
wash
Hot
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180
emicals:
H2O2 Killer
200
220 Min.
100
40
70
50
60
90
80
Temp.(OC )
0
20
Fig: Scouring & Bleaching treatment curve.
40
25 = Enzyme (BT-2) added
10 = Acetic acid added
0 = Water filled
Time of addition for Enzyme & Chemicals:
60
80
100
120
140
160
180
200
220 Min.
Figure: Enzyme Treatment Curve.
6.15 Dyeing Procedure of polyester/cotton blend fabrics with Curve:
Required amount of water filled
Fabric was loaded and run for 10 min.
C2G and Nofwas added for 5 min.
Run for 10 min. at 780 C
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Rinse for 10 min.
Drain
Required amount of water filled
Leveling agent added
Check PH at 4.5
Color/Dyes added for 15 min.
Temperature increased at 800 CRun for 15 min.
Temperature increase at 1300 C
Run for 45 min.
Cooling at 800 C
Shade check(ok)
Rinsing for 15 min.
Drain
Required amount of water filled
Add NOf, 2UD, C2G in Dyeing machine
Temperature increased at 600 C
Run for 20 min.
Add caustic soda
Temperature increased at 700 C
Add H2O2and temperature increased at 980 C
For light color run 60 min, for deep color run 40 min
Sample check (absorbency)
OK
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H
Check P
Add enzyme at600 C temperature
Run 40 min
Add leveling agent
Add salt
Add color at same temperature
Run 10 min
Add Soda and run 35 min
Shade check(ok)
Hot wash
Cold wash
Softener add and run 30 min
40
Drain
100
70
80
120
130
50
60
90
110
Temp.(OC )
Fabric upload
80 = Dyes Dosing
65 = leveling agent added
60 = Formic acid added
10 = NOF,Oxalic acid added
0 = Fabric load
Time of addition Dyeing Chemicals:
Dyeing
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0 20 40 60 80 100 120 140 160 180 200 220 Min.
Figure: Dyeing Curve of Polyester/cottn blend.
6.16 Whitening Recipe & Sequence for Grey mélange:
Ingredient Amount
NOF(detergent) 0.5 g/l
Sequestering Agent(2UD) 1.0 g/l
Ant creasing agent(C2G) 0.8 g/l
Stabilizer 0.8 g/l
Caustic soda 3 g/l
Per oxide kiler(Crocks-N) 3 g/l
OBA(Brightening agent) 0.1 g/l
Sequence:
Water load
Fabric load
Run 5’ at normal temperature
Drain
Water load
NOF,2UD,C2G,Stabilizer are added at normal temperature
Run 5 minute
Caustic dosing 10' at 40 0C
Steam rise to 700C
Peroxide (600C X 10' dosing)
Temperature 950C
Run time 40’ at 950C
OBA dosing 20'
Run 10'
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Sample check
Unload
Process sequence of topping:
Required amount of water filled
Fabric was loaded and run for 10 min.
Drain
Required amount of water filled
Acetic acid was added for 5 min.
Temperature increased at 600 C
Run for 20 min.
Rinsing for 10 min.
Drain
Require amount of water filled
Detergent was added
Temperature increased at 950 C
Run for 30 min.
Rinsing for 20 min.
Leveling agent added for 10 min.
Salt dosing
Color dosing for 30 min
Run for 10 min
Soda dosing
Run for 1 hrs
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Temperature increase at 600C for 5 min
Run for 10 min
Shade check (OK)
Rinsing for 20 min.
Drain
Acetic acid was added for neutralization for 10 min
Shade check (ok)
Hot wash at 700C
Rinsing for 10 min.
Fixing agent was added for 10 min
Rinsing for 10 min.
Water was filled at required amount
PH check at 5.5
Softener was added
Final shade check and run for 20 min
Unloading the dyed fabric
Process sequence of stripping:
Required amount of water was taken into the machine
The fabric was loaded and run for 5-10 minutes in normal temperature
Nof were added at a time for 5 minutes
Caustic was dosing at normal temperature for 5 minutes
Run for 10 min.
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Temperature increased at 1100C and continue for 40 min.
Cooling at 800C
Hydrose inject for 5 min.
Temperature increased at 1100C for 10 min.
Run for 30 min.
Cooling at 800C
Sample check
Rinsing for 15 min.
Hot wash
Cold Wash
Unload the Fabric
Process sequence of Removal Softener spot:
Required amount of water filled
Fabric was loaded and run for 10 min.
Drain
Required amount of water filled
Acetic acid was added for 5 min.
2UD added for 5 min.
Run for 10 min. at 700 C
Rinse for 15 min.
Drain
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Required amount of water filled
Acetic acid added for PH- controlled
Check PH at 4.5
BT-2(enzyme) added
Run for 1 hrs
Shade check
Rinsing for 10 min.
Anti-crease (C2G) was added for 5 min.
Leveling agent (CL225) added for 5 min.
Run for 20 min at 800 C
Rinsing for 10 min.
Acetic acid added for PH- controlled
Check PH at 6.5
Q-9 (Softening agent) injected
Run for 10 min. at 500 C
Unload the Fabric
6.17 Common faults and their remedies in knit dyeing:
1. Crack, rope & crease marks:
Causes:
Poor opening of the fabric rope
Shock cooling of synthetic material
Incorrect process procedure
Higher fabric speed
Remedies:
Pre-Heat setting
Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
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Reducing the m/c load
Higher liquor ratio
Running at a slightly higher nozzle pressure
2. Fabric distortion and increase in width:
Causes:
Too high material speed
Low liquor ratio
Remedies:
By decreasing both nozzle pressure & winch speed
3. Pilling:
Causes:
Too high mechanical stress on the surface of the fabric
Excess speed during processing
Excess foam formation in the dye bath
Remedies:
By using of a suitable chemical lubricant
By using antifoaming agent
By turn reversing the Fabric before dyeing
4. Running problem:
A. Ballooning:
Causes:
Seam joining with too densely sewn
Remedies:
By cutting a vertical slit of 10-15 cm in length for escaping the air.
B. Intensive foaming:
Causes:
Pumping a mixture of air and water
Remedies:
By using antifoaming agent
5. Uneven dyeing:
Causes:
Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring, bleaching & mercerizing)
Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibres
Quick addition of dyes and chemicals
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Lack of control of dyeing m/c
Remedies:
By ensuring even pretreatment
By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers
By slow addition of dyes and chemicals
Proper controlling of dyeing m/c
6. Shade variation (Batch to batch):
Batch to batch shade variation is common in exhaust dyeing which is not
completely avoidable. Even though, to ensure a consistent batch to batch production
of shade the following matters should be controlled carefully-
Use standard dyes and chemicals
Maintain the same liquor ratio
Follow the standard pretreatment procedure
Maintain the same dyeing cycle
Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of the shade
Make sure that the operators add the right bulk chemicals at the same time and
temperature in the process.
The Ph, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water should check
daily.
7. Dye spot:
Causes:
Improper mixing of dyestuff in the solution, in right amount of water, at the
temperature.
Remedies:
We should pass the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh
strainer when adding it to the chemical tank, so that the large un-dissolved
particles are removed.
8. Patchy dyeing:
Causes:
Uneven heat in the machine.
Improper impregnation of dye liquor due to the low wetting property of the
fabric.
Dye migration during intermediate dyeing.
Remedies:
By proper pretreatment.
By adding extra wetting agent.
Heat should be same throughout the dye liquor.
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9. Specky dyeing:
Causes:
Excessive foam in the dye bath.
Fall of water droplets on fabric surface before or after dyeing.
In sufficient after treatment.
Remedies:
By using antifoaming agent.
Sufficient after treatment.
By using a good wetting agent in the dye bath.
10. Roll to roll variation or Meter to Meter variation:
Causes:
Poor migration property of dyes.
Improper dyes solubility.
Hardness of water.
Faulty m/c speed, etc
Remedies:
Use standard dyes and chemicals.
Proper m/c speed.
Use of soft water
11. Crease mark:
Causes:
Poor opening of the fabric rope
Shock cooling of synthetic material
If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal
Due to high speed m/c running
Remedies:
Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.
Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
Reducing the m/c load
Higher liquor ratio
12. Dye spot:
Causes:
Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath.
Improper Dissolving of caustic soda particle in bath.
Remedies:
By proper dissolving of dyes & chemicals
By passing the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh
strainer, so that thelarge un-dissolved particles are removed
13. Softener Mark:
Causes:
Improper mixing of the Softener.
Improper running time of the fabric during application of softener.
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Entanglement of the fabric during application of softener
Remedies:
Maintaining proper reel speed & pump speed.
Proper Mixing of the softener before addition.
Prevent the entanglement of the fabric during application of softener.
6.18 Process Loss In Different stage:
1. White / light shade fabric process loss = 06%
If,
Grey fabric weight = 500 kg
Finished fabric weight = 470 kg
Grey fabric weight – Finished fabric weight
Process loss = ----------------------------------------------------------------------- X 100
Grey fabric weight
500 - 470
= --------------------- X 100 = 6%
500
Add Enzyme for white/ light shade fabric process loss = 10%
Grey fabric weight – Finished fabric weight
Process loss = ----------------------------------------------------- X 100
Grey fabric weight
500 - 450
= ------------------ X 100
500
= 10%
2. Black or Deep color fabric process loss = 4% or 5%
Add enzyme Black or deep color fabric process loss = 8% or 9%
6.19 Collection of faulted dyed fabric:
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Hole Oil Spot
Shade Variation Crease Mark
6.20 Photo Gallery
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7. Finishing Section
7.1 Layout of Finishing Section:
Back Sewing
M/C
Scutcher Scutcher
M/C M/C
Fabric
Reversing
M/C Slitting M/C Stente
r M/C
Stenter
Hydro
Dryer M/C
Calenderinh
Dryer M/C
g M/C
Dryer M/C Calenderinh
Dyeing Lab
g M/C
Fabric Inspection Inspection
W E EXI
S T
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7.2 Organogram of Finishing Section:
Finishing Manager
Finishing In-charge
Shift In-charge
Supervisor
Operator
Helper
7.3 Machine description of finishing section:
S/ Machinery No. of Brand Origin
L machine
1 Fabric Reversing M/C 01 MERSAN Turkey
2 Scutcher M/C 02 SANTEX Switzerland
3 Dryer M/C 01 SANTEX Switzerland
4 Dryer M/C 01 HELINT Switzerland
5 Calendering M/C 01 FERRARO Italy
6 Slitting M/C 01 SANTEX Switzerland
8 Stenter M/C 01 BRUCKNER Italy
9 Back sewing M/C 01 HSING CHENG Taiwan
10 Dryer M/C 01 SANTEX Switzerland
11 Hydroextractor 01
12 Tumble dryer 01
13 Tumble Dryer 01
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7.4 Finishing section is consisting of two lines. These are –
A. Open line
B. Tube line
A.The machine that are used for open line are given bellow –
Back sewing machine
Slitting machine
Stenter machine
Calendering machine
B.The machines that are used for tube line are given bellow –
Fabric Reversing machine
Scutcher machine
Dryer machine
Tube calendaring machinemachine
7.5 Different types of machine with their function:
Machine No:01
Name: Wet Fabric Reversing Machine
Function:
Turn tube fabric face side to back side or back side to face side to remove
loosen fibers.
Details
Brand Mersan
Serial No 13200909
Electric Power 2KW
Weight 650 Kg
Origin Turkey
Machine No: 02
Name: Scutcher Machine
Function:
Clean the fabric.
Increases the softness of fabric.
Remove water through squeezing.
Dewatering, softener application and overstretching.
Details
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Brand Santex
Type SANTASTRETCH PLUS 120
ELECTR. DIAGR.NR: 94-3540
Working Speed 0-80m/min
Working Widths 100-240cm
Electric Power Supply 4-8KW
Year of construction 1994
Origin Switzerland
Machine No: 03
Name: Scutcher machine.
Function:
Clean the fabric
Increases the softness of fabric.
Remove water through squeezing.
Dewatering, softener application and
overstretching.
Details
Brand Santex
Type Santastretch Plus
ELECTR. DIAGR.NR: 01-5552
Electric Voltage 3*380 volt+PEN 220 V/50Hz
Connected Load 20 Kw
Year of construction 2002
Origin Switzerland
Machine No: 04
Name: Dryer Machine
Function:
To dry the fabric.
To control the overfeed system.
To control the vibration which increase the G.S.M.
Tensionless drying, shrinking and relaxing for knitted and woven fabrics.
Details
Brand Santex
Model CH-9555 Tobel
Working Width 60-420cm
Evaporation Capacity 320 Kg/h
Machine Speed 5-80m/min
Electr. Diagr.Nr 93-3541
Electric Voltage 3*388 volt+N+E220V,50 Hz
Connected Load 60 Kw
Year of Manufacturing 1994
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Machine: 05
Name: Dryer
Function:
To dry the fabric.
To control the overfeed system.
To control the vibration which
increase the G.S.M.
Details
Brand Helint
Model CH-9555 Tobel
Type ONDLLOMAX 3.3.2GAZ
Connected Load 60 Kw
Year of Manufacturing 1994
Machine No: 06
Name: Dryer machine(Tube)
Function:
To dry the fabric.
To control the overfeed system.
To control the vibration which increase the G.S.M.
Steaming and Compacting of tubular fabrics.
Details
Brand Santex
Model CH-9555 Tobel
Type Santaspread 120
Working Width 100-180cm
Working Speed 5-50m/min
Electr. Diagr.Nr 93-3542
Electric Voltage 3*388 volt+N+E230V,50 Hz
Connected Load 8 Kw
Year of Manufacturing 1994
Machine No: 07
Name: Calendaring Machine
Function:
Removing shrinkage of fabric.
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Control dia of fabric.
Details
Brand Ferraro
Connected Load 10 Kw
Year of Manufacturing 2006
Origin Italy
Machine No: 08
Name: Hydro Extractor
Function:
To extract excess water.
Details
Brand Dilmenler
Capacity 125 Kg
Extraction % 80
Origin Turkey
Time 5-10 mins
Machine No: 08
Name: Slitting machine.
Function:
To open tube fabric according to specific needle mark.
Slitting of tubular fabrics.
Details
Brand Santex
Model CH-9555 Tobel
Electr.diagr.Nr 01-5553
Working Width 2400mm
Electric Voltage 3* 380 V+PE 220 V/50 Hz
Connected Load 21 Kw
Year of Manufacturing 2002
Machine No: 09
Name: Back Sewing Machine
Function:
To removing side dull.
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Details
Brand Hsing Cheng
Model HC-AEN-2600mm-A12797
Year of Manufacturing 2005
Origin Taiwan
Machine No: 10
Name: Stenter Machine
Function:
GSM of the fabric is controlled by stenter.
Spirality controlled by the stenter.
Moisture of the fabric is controlled by the stenter.
Loop of the knit fabric is controlled
by the stenter.
Finishing chemicals apply on the
fabric by the stenter.
Width of the fabric is controlled by
the stenter.
Heat setting is done by the stenter
for lycra fabric, synthetic and
blended fabric.
Fabric is dried by the stenter.
Shrinkage property of the fabric is
controlled by the stenter.
Details
Brand Bruckner
Serial No 72276-0463
Temperature Range 50-250 ͦC
Max Speed 120 (m/min)
Production Capacity 8 ton/day
No of Chamber 3
Max. Fabric Width 102”
Minimum Fabric Width 30’’
Steam Pressure 2 bar
Air pressure 10 bar
No of rotamatic burner 6
Extra Attachment Mahlo weft straightener
Year of Manufacturing 2002
Origin Germany
Machine No: 11
Name:Calendaring Machine
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Function:
Removing shrinkage.
Increase smoothness.
Details
Brand Santex
Model CKN/280
Year of Manufacturing 2002
Origin Italy
7.6 Finished Fabric Inspection:
The following defects are found in the final inspection.
1. Uneven shade
2. Oil spot
3. Naps
4. Crease mark
5. Machine Stoppage mark
6. Listing
7. Line mark
8. Pick missing
9. Double yarn
10. Dead cotton
11. Bowing
12. Fly yarn contamination
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Garments manufacturing Section
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8. Garments manufacturing Section
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8.1 Layout of Garments section:
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This is the garment sewing and printing unit of this group. In finishing of garments we
use vacuum steam ironing. On buyer’s request, we use a metal detector to check all
garments. Finished boxes are being kept in a separate warehouse, where we have two
inspection rooms available for our buyers.
We have a sampling section with 15 people. Each style is being sampled first with
available fabrics. After style approval, we make size-set with available fabrics. After
approval, we make pre-production sample with right material.
Machinery: The sewing section has m/c combination of Juki and Pegasus, which can
make 40,000 pcs per day. Additional m/cs are being installed to improve the
production efficiency and quality. We have Plain, Over Lock, Flat Lock, Button Hole,
Button Stitch, Snap Button Attaching, Feeder over the Arm, Zigzag, Kansai Special
sewing machines.
Annual turnover: US$ 15 million,75% of which is generated out of Purbani Fabrics
Ltd.
Products: Apparel
The daily cutting capacity is currently 32,000 pieces (extendable up to 40,000 pieces),
breaking into following product - mix:
Polo: 8000 pcs/day
T-shirt+tank top:20,000 pcs/day
Fancy items: 4000 pcs/day
Total:32,000 pcs/day
Printing Section in Purbani Fabrics Ltd
Our printing unit is using screen printing method to print on garments and has a daily
capacity of 20,000 pes.
Products: Printing
Pigment photo, discharge, plastisol, rubber, cracle, high density etc.
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8.2 Organogram of Garments section:
General Manager
Production Manager
Finishing Printing In- Asst. Production Printing Quality Cutting
Manager charge Manager In-charge Manager
Line Chief Quality
Finishing In- Designer Cutting In-
charge charge
Supervisor Expose man
Color master Supervisor
Supervisor
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Importman Exposer
Supervisor Marker Man
Helper
Operator
Machine Cutter
Sample man
Helper Man
Operator Scissor Cutter
Man
Layer man Import Man
Nack Man
Helper
Lay Man
Helper
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8.3 Machine Description:
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Sl. Name of Machine Quantity
No
1 Plain machine single needle 269
2 Plain machine double needle 8
3 Over lock 4 thread 140
4 Over lock 5 thread 1
5 Gathering over lock 2
6 Flat lock cylinder bed normal 50
7 Cylinder bed Computerized 20
8 Cylinder bed auto trimmer 8
9 Picot 3
10 Smoke 32 needle 1
11 Smoke 33 needle 1
12 Zig-zag 1
13 Feed of the arm02 needle 1
14 Feed of the arm04 needle 10
15 Rib cutter machine 10
16 Chain stitch double needle 3
17 Fusing 1
18 Elastic Join Flat Lock 1
19 Flat bed 40
20 General category button hole 8
21 Button Stitch 8
22 Kansal Special 3
23 Snap button 8
24 Bar-tack 3
8.4 Sequence of garment production:
Sewing Sequence of T-shirt:
Number matching front 2 back pant (back on pant on upper side)
Solder stitching (By over lock m/c)
Neck rib truck (By plain m/c)
Neck rib sewing by plain m/c
Neck rib joins with body pant
Neck top sin
Solder to solder back tip
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Size label sewing
Solder to solder back top sin
Sleeve marking ad number matching with body parts.
Sleeve tuck with body part (Sleeve mark point & solder mark point)
Sleeve joint with the body part
Side sewing and care label joint
Bottom hem tuck (at the end side)
Bottom hem sewing
Arm bottom hem joint
Inspection
Trouser sewing sequence:
Number matching back & front pant
Back rise & Front rise joint
Pocket facing joint with pocket part by over lock m/c
Pocket part sewing by over lock m/c
Pocket tracing joint by plain m/c
Top stitch pocket with pocket facing
To sin Zigzag (pocket Rolling)
Pocket marking by catalog & scissor
Number matching pocket & body part
Pocket tuck (2 end side of the pocket)
Pocket joint with the body part
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Pocket top sin (ZigZag)
Back & front matching (number)
Side sewing of the trouser
Side top sin (ZigZag )
In side sewing by over lock
Elastic tuck for waist belt
Eye lot at middle point of the belt
Rib tuck sewing for belt
Elastic cutting at size wise
Elastic + Rib (belt) tuck
Belt surfacing
Belt & body tuck
Belt & body joint
Label joint
Top sin belt joining point
Bottom hem sewing
Dosting cutting &fildeng
Dosting tuck
Supporting tuck on bottom hem & belt top sin
Pocket Eye lot snap button M/C
Inspection
Polo- Shirt sewing sequence:
Lining joint with collar part by heat pressing
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Collar marking for open stitch
Collar inside open stitch
Collar marking
Collar ¼ top sin
Collar cutting
Band Rolling
Band joint with Collar
Band top sin 1/6
Placket lining
Placket marking
Placket Rolling
Placket joint
Placket top sin 1/6
Placket Pattern top sin
Placket pattern top sin 1/6
Box Sewing
Pocket Rolling
Pocket iron
Pocket marking
Pocket joint with body
Yoke joint with back part
Yoke ¼ top sin
Back & front part matching number
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Solder joint
Solder top sin
Collar marking
Collar & body number matching
Collar joint with body part
Collar top sin in jointing point
Sleeve marking
Sleeve over locked
Sleeve Rolling
Sleeve pair matching
Sleeve & body matching
Sleeve body tuck
Sleeve joint with body part
Sleeve marking for batch
Sleeve batch joint (left & right side)
Body marking for batch
Batch joint with body part
Label make
Label Iron
Main label joint in back side
Sleeve opening tuck
Body hem sewing
Care label sewing
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Side joint
Band tuck
Band tape joint
Band top sin
Sleeve chap tuck
Inspection
8.5 Photo Gallery of Karim Textile Ltd.:
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Quality Control Section
9. Quality Control Section
9.1 Quality Assurance System:
The Quality Assurance Department is assigned to maintain consistently uniform
quality of the material in process and various stages of its manufacturing.
9.2 Objects of quality Control:
1. Research.
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2. Selection of raw materials.
3. Process control.
4. Process development.
5. Product testing.
6. Specification test.
9.3 Quality Assurance at different stage:
Purbani Fabrics Limited assures the quality of the products of dyeing section in the
following three steps:
1. In laboratory
2. In dyeing section &
3. In finishing section
9.4 Procedures are described below:
In laboratory:
1. Swatch card from buyer according to their requirement
2. recipe prediction for sample dyeing
3. sample dyeing until matching with swatch card
4. Fastness & other tests of the fabric or yarn are done here.
In dyeing section:
1. According to the buyer’s sample, sample dyeing is done in sample dyeing
machine in dyeing shed & again matched with the approved sample.
2. If result is OK, then bulk production.
3. During dyeing, samples are taken until accurate shade matching. The interval
may be 30-40 minutes.
4. After dyeing sample is collected after softening matching is done.
5. Last of all, sample is collected after fixation & matched.
6. Then allowed the fabrics to be finished.
In finishing section:
By using a series of finishing machines correct width, softness & appearance are
maintained according to requirements.
Then sampling is done for several times to test GSM, Shrinkage & fastness properties.
Finally fabric is inspected & prepared for delivery.
9.5 Quality Standard:
Purbani Fabrics Ltd. Follows the quality standard: ISO-9001:2000.
9.6 List of Equipment:
In the quality assurance Department the followings equipment’s are used-
Electronics Balance
Iron
Ahiba Nuance lab. Dip Dyeing Machine
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Rota Wash
Crock Meter
Spectro Photometer with software (Data Color)
PH meter
9.7 Different Quality Test Method:
Different types of fastness tests of the dyed fabric are done in quality control
department of the Purbani Fabrics Ltd. Different types of method (Standard or
buyer’s recommended) are followed for different types of tests.
There are two types of tests are done in Quality Assurance department. They are-
1. physical Tests
2. Chemical Test.
9.7.1 Physical Tests:
GSM Test
Shrinkage test
Spirality test
Pilling resistance
9.7.2 Chemical Tests:
Fastness to washing.
Fastness to rubbing
9.8 Fabric Inspection:
The inspection of fabric is a procedure by which the defects of fabric are identified
and fabric is classified according to degree or intensity of defects. The fabric
inspection is done for both grey and finished fabric.
9.8.1 Grey Fabric Inspection:
Grey fabric inspection is performed according to 4-point system.
9.8.2 Finished Fabric Inspection:
4 point numbering system is followed for finished fabric inspection. Defects found in
the final inspection.
i. Uneven shade
ii. Oil spot
iii. Neps
iv. Crease mark
9.9 Machine Stoppage mark
v. Listing
vi. Line mark
vii. Pick missing
viii. Double yarn
ix. Dead cotton
x. Bowing
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xi. Fly yarn contamination
9.10 Color Fastness to wash Test procedure:
Colorfastness:
The “color fastness” of a colored textile is defined as its resistance to these changes
when subjectedto particulars of conditions. It follows that color fastness must be
specified in terms of these changes and expressed in terms to the magnitude.
Required materials:
1. Sample size 40 x 100 mm
2. multifiber at 40 x 100 mm
3. ECE detergent (WOB)-4g/L
4. Sodium Perborate (Na2BO3.H2O2-1g/L)-1g/L
5. Distilled water
6. Normal cold water
7. Steel balls
Required instrument:
1. Rota wash
2. Scissor
3. Stitch machine
Procedure:
1. Cut sample &multifibre at 40 x 100 mm
2. 50 ml ECE detergent (WOB) & 50 ml Sodium per borate is taken with the
sample. For marks & Spencer, the solution is taken by the following formula:
(Sample fabric + Multifibre weight) x 50 ml
3. the sample is kept in 600C for 30 minutes in Rota Wash Machine
4. Rinse the sample twice with cold water.
5. Dry at 600C by hanging or by Flat iron pression but temperature should bot be
more than 1500C.
Report:
Dry the specimen and the change of shade & degree of staining is measured by Grey
Scale & Staining Scale.
Color fastness to rubbing (Dry & Wet) Test:
Sample :
Dyed fabric -15 cm x 5 cm
White Test Cloth -5 cm x 5 cm
Procedure:
White test cloth is put on to the grating and stag by steel wire.
The sample is run twenty times manually for ten seconds. And the rubbing
fastness of the sample cloth and degree of staining is accessed.
For rubbing fastness (Wet), the rubbing cloth is placed in the water and
socked and squeeze. The wet rubbing cloth is placed on to the grating and
stag with stainless steel wire and run ten times manually then assesses the
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attaining on to the rubbing cloth and the rubbing fastness of the sample
cloth is accessed.
Report :
Change of shade of the sample is measured with grey scale and degree of
staining of the white test cloth is measured by Staining Scale.
There are also some tests are done in the lab. And the process is described
below-
9.11 Measuring dimensional stability (Shrinkage &spirality):
Sample:
Two piece of 50 cm x 50 cm fabric is taken for test.
Procedure :
onditioning: Put the sample in the table for 4 hours for conditioning before
starting test.
Cut the sample 50 x 50 cm & benchmark should be 35 x 35 cm. Stitch the
sample (3 sides) by over lock sewing machine.
Put sample in washing machine and run according to buyer’s choice.
Drying: All Buyers’ requirement is tumble Dry except ECHO SCOURING is
flat dry.
Shrinkage test calculation:
Before wash - After Wash
Shrinkage % (Percentage) = Before wash
Spirality test calculation
S= (S1+ S2)/2
Spirality = (S+S X L)/100.
Suppose,
S1= The right side distance of the specimen from the stitch line wash.
S2= The left side distance of the specimen from the stitch line after wash.
L = Length before wash.
Remarks:
Purbani Fabrics Ltd. Always about the quality of the product. The quality of
the product is always approved by the buyer. They follow the quality standard: ISO –
9001:2000. Purbani Fabrics Ltd is well equipped for checking the quality of the
product. They sent the quality report to batch. We think as Purbani Fabrics Ltd strictly
meet up the quality level that’s why they are the only one direct manufacture of Marks
& Spencer garments.
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9.12 Lab Test Report Sheet:
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9.13Photo Gallery
Dryer & Washing Machine
Light fastness tester and pilling tester.
Micro-oven & Crock meter.
Spector photometer.
Light fastness tester &Pilling tester
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Different Chemicals for different test.
INVENTORY
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10. Inventory Section
1o.1 Inventory Control:
Store is the place where every type of raw materials, spares finished goods are kept in
proper system. Inventory control means the accurate calculation and data of every
type of raw materials spares and finished goods in time to time. Store inventory
control are necessary, because –
To know about the required amount of raw material.
To know about the job no – which would be processed?
To be continued the production process.
To fine out the profit or loss of a company.
Stock and stock value for consumption measuring.
10.2 Frequency of Inventory Update:
Daily
Monthly
Annual
10.3 Scope of Inventory Control:
Dyes store.
Raw material.
Other chemicals.
Grey fabrics.
Spare parts.
General store.
Capital equipment’s.
Accessories.
Stationary.
Maintenance parts.
10.4 Inventory System for raw material:
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In Purbani Fabrics Ltd. There are different inventory systems for different raw
materials.
Grey Fabric Store:
All the grey fabrics are stored in the fabric store near the batch section. Different types
of fabric are listed in the sheet according to fabric types, quantity and consumer’s
requirement.
Dyes and Chemicals:
There is different store for dyes and chemicals. Varies types of dyes and chemicals are
stored here according to dyes and chemicals companies. Different types of dyes and
chemicals are listed in a sheet. In the sheet the stored quantity of dyes and chemicals
are also included. Every day the sheet is updated and a copy of this sheet is supplied to
the dyeing manager, dye house and lab section.
Spares:
In Purbani Fabrics Ltd. required amount of spears of different machines are stored
in the mechanical store room. All the spears are listed in a sheet which is controlled by
the mechanical & maintenance personnel. Spares are arranged in the store room
according to their size, quantity & requirements. There are shelves in the store room to
keep the small spare parts.
Finished Goods:
Purbani Fabrics Ltd. Supplies its finished dyed fabrics to its garments section. So,
dyed finished fabrics are stored for short time in the finishing section. All the
delivered fabrics are noted on the tally khata according to the lot no, quantity, fabrics
diameter, buyer’s name, color & considering other technical parameters.
Remarks:
Purbani Fabrics Ltd. Have individual stores for raw materials, finished goods etc.
There is not enough space to store the finished goods. It requires increasing the store
area. In Purbani Fabrics Ltd. the store for inventory control is satisfactory.
Sometime, they fluctuate form ideal process otherwise they are ok.
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COST ANALYSIS
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11. Cost Analysis
11.1 Factors of costing of a product:
The following factors are considered for costing any dyed product:
Total dyes and chemical cost.
Total utility cost
Salary
Lunch
Entertainment cost
Government cash incentive
Yarn cost
Knitting cost
Cost of dyeing
Cost of finishing
Cost of cutting, sewing, accessories etc.
Cost of printing (If any)
Labor cost (direct & indirect)
Factory cost
Sales and caring cost
Others cost.
11.2 Price of the Product:
Are not available.
Remarks:
The costing of the product is a secret matter of the Ind. They are not interested to flash
up the cost related data. So we could not collect the price of product & costing of the
product.
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Marketing Department
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12. Marketing Department
12.1 Consumer of Products:
PFL is a 100% export oriented industry. All the goods produced in this industry are
exported into various foreign countries. Name of the main buyers are given below:
12.2 Name of Buyers:
1. Colombus
2. Max
3. Garcia
4. Nayomi
5. Betty
6. Barcaly
7. ZXY
8. Calvin- Calin
9. Lerros
11. Trimarx
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12. Radiance
13. P.Q.S
14. D-tex
15. Aftab
16. Spicy
17. Avrora
18. H.S Fash
19. Knit Zone
20. Anando
21. T.C.G
22. Scott
23. Dress-up
24. Astro-knit
25. Blith
26. S.R.G
27. Oxford
28. Shocby
29. Kooke- Design
30. Non.wash
31. Eshan
32. Faruquee.knit
12.3 Communication System:
Intercom telephone
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Fax
E-mail
Written letters
Oral
12.4 Importing countries:
There are some countries which are importing gods from The PPC. The name of the
countries are given below –
Spain
Germany
Denmark
Europe
Denmark
Europe Union
United State of America
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12.5 Marketing Strategy:
Marketing strategy is a very important factors to sale the products to the buyer. If
the marketing strategy is not so developed, it will be very hard to reach the goal.
In case of garments marketing the dealings with the buyer is a very important
factor.
Purbani Fabrics Ltd. mainly senior marketing officers, merchandiser & higher
officials deal with the buyer. There are some fixed buyers of the industry. The
buyers give their orders continuously all over the year. The marketing officers &
the merchandisers communicate with the buying houses to collect the orders.
By both side understanding the rate & the order quantity are fixed.
12.6 Duties & responsibilities of marketing officer:
Dealing with the buyer & convince the buyer is the main duty of marketing
officer. A marketing officer also has some other duties. The main duties &
responsibilities of a marketing office are given bellow –
To prepare cost sheet by dealing with the buyer.
To take different steps by discussing with the high officials &
merchandisers.
To maintain a regular & good relationship between commercial
officer & merchandisers.
To maintain a communication with the buyers and buying houses.
Communicate with better criteria of the products.
Remarks:
Purbani Fabrics Ltd. hasmarketing & merchandising team. They always
communicate with the buyers.Purbani Fabrics Ltd. has some fixed buyers. The
marketing section also looks the quality & quantity of buyers.
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HRM & COMPLIENCE
13. HRM & Compliance
13.1 Definition:
Compliance means conformity of certain standard. PPC maintain a moderate
working condition for their employees. Though it is well established project, there
is some lacking of proper compliance issues. Here is list of compliance in which
some points are maintained fully and some are partially.
Compensation for holiday
Leave with wages
Health register
Time care
Accident register
Workman register
Equal remuneration
National festival holiday
Overtime register
Labor welfare
Weekly holiday fund
Sexual harassment policy
Child labor abolition policy
Anti-discrimination policy
Zero abasement policy
Working hour policy
Hiring /recruitment policy
Environment policy
Security policy
Buyers code of conduct
Health and safety committee
Canteen
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13.2 Health:
Drinking water at least 4.5 L/day/employee
Cup availability
Drinking water supply
Water cooler ,heater available in canteen
Drinking water signs in Bangla and English locate min. 20 feet away from
work place
Drinking water vassal clean at once in a week
Water reserve at least once a week
Water center in charge person with cleanliness
Suggestion box register
13.3 Toilet:
Separate toilet for women and men
A seat with proper privacy and lock facility
Urinal accommodation
Effective water sewage system
Soap toilet
Water tap
Dust bins
Toilet white washed one in every four month
Daily cleaning log sheet
No-smoking signs
Ladies /gents toilet signs both in bangle and English
Deposal of wastes and effluent
13.4 Fire:
Sufficient fire extinguisher and active
Access area without hindrance
Fire signs in both languages
Fire certified personal photo
Emergency exit
13.5 Safety Guard:
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Metal glows on good conditions
Rubber mats & ironers
First aid box one
Ironers wearing sleepers
First trained employees
Motor/needle guard
Eye guard
Nurse
Doctor
Medicine
Medicine issuing register
Welfare officer
13.6 Others:
Room temperature
Lighting facilities
Fig: Doctor Fig: First aid box
Fig: Fire training
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14. Utility Department
14.1 Utility Service:
Here the following utility services are available-
1. Water
2. Electricity
3. Steam
4. Gas
5. Compress air
14.2 Water Pumps:
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Centrifugal Pump for water supply to Dyeing & Others
Section
1 20 H. P Pedrollo Pump each pump, 1000L/min 4 Units 4,000.00L/min
2 10 H.P Pedrollo Pump flow rate, 600 L/Min 1 Unit 600.00L/min
3 5.5 H.P Pedrollo – Pump flow rate, 50 L/Min 1 Unit 350.00L/min
4 Spare Pump Motor Pedrollo 20 H.P1 Unit and 5.5 1 Unit 1, 00L/min
H.P
5 Jhonson Pump (30 H.P) 2 Unit 100 m3/hr
6 KSB Pump (30 H.P) 1 Unit 100 m3/hr
7 Submerssible Pump KSB 46 Kw 150 m3/hr
14.3 Natural Water Quality:
Water for a textile plant may come from various sources. These include surface water
from rivers and lakes, and subterranean water from wells. In PPC they collect water
from Under ground. Natural and pretreated water may contain a variety of chemical
species that can influence textile wet processing in general, and dyeing in particular.
The various salts present in water depend on the geological formations through which
the water has flowed. These salts are mainly the carbonates (CO 32- ), hydrogen
carbonates or bi-carbonates ( HCO3- ), Sulphates ( SO42- ) and chlorides ( Cl- ) of
calcium ( Ca2+), magnesium (Mg2+) . Although calcium and magnesium carbonates in
limestone are relatively insoluble in water. So in this reasons, water hardness can be
divided into two ways-
1) Temporary hardness : Temporary hardness of water which contain such this
materials as Ca(HCO3)2 , Mg(HCO3)2 , Fe(HCO3)2 .
2) Permanent hardness :Parmanent hardness of water which contain such this
materials as CaCl2 , CaSO4 , Ca (NO3)2 , MgCl2 , MgSO4 , Mg(NO3)2 .
This water hardness causes some serious consequences in a textile dyeing and
finishing industries and these are -
Precipitation of soaps.
Redeposit ion of dirt and insoluble soaps on the fabric being washed ,
this can cause yellowing and lead to uneven dyeing and poor handle.
Precipitation of some dyes as calcium and magnesium salts.
Scale formation on equipment and in boilers and pipelines.
Reduction of the activity of the enzymes used in washing.
Incompatibility with chemicals in finishing recipes and so on.
Hardness expressed by parts per million (ppm) of CaCO 3 which is standard
hardness scale and it is also called American hardness. The hardness of raw water is
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100 ppm or more. To use it in dyeing and in boiler this water must need to soft &
foreign materials needs to remove.
14.4 Standard Water Quality for Dye House:
Parameter Permissible concentration
Color Color less
Smell No bad smell
Water Hardness <5 ppm
PH value 7-8 (Neutral)
Dissolve solid < 1 ppm
Inorganic salt < 500 ppm
Iron (Fe) < 0.1 ppm
Manganese (Mn) < 0.01 ppm
Copper (Cu) <0.005 ppm
Nitrate (NO3) < 50 ppm
Nitrate (NO2) < 5 ppm
14.5 Methods of water softening:
There is an ion exchange method by which hardness of water is removed in industrial
scale–
The flow chart of water treatment plant is given below -
Stone Carbon Resin Delivery
Hard Water Store Tank Filter Filter Filter Pump
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Soft Water Store Tank
Fig: Water treatment plan
14.6 Electricity:
Brand Waukesha
Gas Intake 0.20 mm
Gas Exhaust 0.66 mm
RPM 1500
Fuel Natural Gas
Capacity 164 KW
Orogin USA
Available 3 pieces
Waukesha gas Generator
14.7 Steam Boiler:
Brand Revotherm
Evaporation Rate 6000 kg/hr
Output 3.76 MW
Fuel Natural Gas
Frequency 50 Hz
Connected Load 19.5 KW
Available 4 pieces
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Revotherm Boiler
14.8 Air compressor:
Brand BOGE
Rate of Flow 4.30 m3/min
Max. service Pressure 10 bar
Motor Speed 3000min
Motor Power 10 KW
Available 2 pieces
Fig:Boge Compressor
14.9 Gas:
PURBANI es natural gas comes from Titas Gas Transmission Company. Gas is used as
the fuel of Boiler, Generator and also used for heating dryer, Stenter and compactor
m/cs etc.
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MAINTAINANCE
15. Maintenance Department
15.1 Definition:
Machine, Buildings and other facilities are subjected to deterioration due to their use
and exposure to environmental condition process of deterioration, if unchecked,
culminates in rendering these service facilities unserviceable and brings them to a
standstill. In Industry, therefore has no choice to attend them from time to time to
repair and recondition them so as to elongate their life to the extent it is economically
and physically possible to do so.
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15.2 Objective of Maintenance:
1. To keep the factory plants, equipments, machine tools in an optimum working
condition.
2. To ensure specified accuracy to product and time schedule of delivery to
customer.
3. To keep me downtime of machines to me minimum must to have control over
me production program.
4. To keep the production cycle within the stipulated range.
5. To modify the machine tools to meet the need for production.
Maintenance
Maintenance
Electrical
Electrical
15.3 Types of Maintenance:
Maintenance
Maintenance
Preventive
Preventive
Maintenance
Mechanical
Maintenance
Mechanical
Maintenance
Maintenance
ee
Maintenance
(Production)
Maintenance
(Production)
Electrical
Electrical
maintenance
maintenance
Break
Break down
down
Maintenance
Mechanical
Maintenance
Mechanical
Preventive maintenance:
Preventive maintenance is a predetermined routine actively to ensure on time
inspection/ checking of facilities to uncover conditions that may lead to production
break downs or harmful description.
Break down maintenance:
In this case, repairs are made after the equipment is out of order and it can not perform
its normal functions.
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Routine Maintenance:
Maintenance of different machines are prepared by expert engineer of maintenance
department. Normally in case of dyeing machine maintenance after 30 days complete
checking of different important parts are done.
Manpower setup for maintenance:
A Shift 7 AM 2 PM
B Shift 7 PM 10 AM
General Shift 10 AM 7 PM
15.4 Maintenances Procedure:
Normally preventive maintenance should be done. During maintenance procedure
following points should be checked.
15.5 Check List of Different Parts:
Maintenance: Mechanical
Machine: Dyeing machine
Sl No Items need to be checked & Serviced
01 Crease the M/C bearing.
02 Complete cleaning of machine.
03 Cleaning of drain valves, replace seals if required.
04 Check air supply filters, regulators auto drain seals
05 Clean filters element and blow out.
06 Greasing of unloading roller bearing.
07 Checking of oil level and bolts of unloading roller gearbox.
08 Checking of unloading roller coupling and packing.
09 Checking & cleaning (if required) of main vessel level indicator.
10 Check the oil level of pump bearing and refill if required.
11 Check the function of heat and cool modulation valves
12 Check all door seals
Maintenance: Electrical
Machine: Dyeing machine
Sl No Items need to be checked & Serviced
01 Check & clean fluff and dirt at dirt at all motor fan covers.
02 Check all motor’s terminals
03 Check main panels (by using compressed air)
04 Check panel cooling fan & clean its filter
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05 Clean main pump inverter and its cooling fan.
06 Check all circuit breaker, magnetic conductors and relays.
07 Check current setting of all circuit breaker & motor over load.
08 Visual checking of all power & control cables.
09 Check all pressure switches.
10 Check calibration of main vessel & all addition tank.
11 Check all pneumatic solenoids
12 Check calibration of heating / cooling modulation value
13 Check setting of tangle sensor.
14 Check setting & operation of lid safely switches
15 Check all emergency switches
16 Check all indication lamps
17 Check all on/off switches
18 Check all signal isolators
15.6 Maintenance Tools & Equipment’s:
1. Combination tools / spanner
Function : Tightening & loosening of nuts & bolts.
2. Socket ratchet set
Function : Tightening of nuts & bolts
3. Slide Range
Function : Tightening & loosening of nuts & bolts
4. Monkey pliers
Function : Tightening & loosening of nuts & bolts
5. Pipe threat cutting tools
Function : To cut the threat in pipe.
6. Bearing puller
Function : To assist the opening of bearing from shaft.
7. Pipe range
Function: Tightening & loosening of pipe joint
8. Pipe cutting tools
Function : for pipe cutting.
9.Hole punch
Function : Punching the hole.
10. Divider
Function : For circle making on metal & wood.
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11. Easy opener
Function : To open the broken head bolt.
12. External threat die
Function : For external threat cutting.
13. Heavy scissor
Function : Cutting of gasket & steel sheet
14. Pipe threat cutting tools
Function: To cut the threat in pipe.
15. Drill machine and drill bit.
Function : for drilling.
16. Grease gun
Function : For greasing of moving parts of M/C.
17. Grinding M/C
Function : For grinding & cutting of mild steel.
18. Welding M/C
Function : For welding & cutting.
19. Spirit leveler
Function : For perfect leveling.
20. File
Function : For smoothing the surface.
21.Harmmer
Function : For scaling & Right angling.
22.Circlip tools
Function :Circlip opening & closing.
23. Hacksaw blade
Function: For metal cutting.
24. Handsaw (wood)
Function: For wood cutting.
25. Grinding stone
Function: For smooth finishing.
26. Grinding paste
Function: For easy cutting of metal.
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Remarks:
Maintenance of M/C’s are very essential to prolong the M/C life and good
maintenance is important consideration. It is necessary to check that all routine
maintenance is being done regularly and properly otherwise efficiency of each
department will be reduced.
ETP & WTP
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Effluent
Treatment Plant
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16.1 Layout of effluent treatment plant:
Layout of ETP
Distributor
Neutralization Tank
Homogeneous
Tank
Liftin
Sediment
g
ation
Stati Oxidation Tank
Feeding
on
Tank
Screen
Re-circulation
Tank
Clarifier Tank
Treated Water Discharge
Figure: Layout of Effluent Treatment Plant.
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16.2 Effluent Treatment Plant:
Effluent treatment is a must in the textile industry because the water that comes out
after dyeing is harmful for the environment. Effluent treatment is a process by which
the water passed from the textile Industry which contains various pollutants is cured.
The Effluent treatment process is briefly discussed below:
16.3 Pollutants Present in Textile Industry:
Various types of pollutants are present in textile industries which are responsible for
the faults caused in the processes. These pollutants are discussed below:
Color:
The presence of color in the waste water is one of the main problems in the textile
industry. Most of the colors are stable and has no effect of light or oxidizing agent.
These colors cannot be easily degraded by conventional methods of treatment.
Dissolved Solids:
Dissolved solids are also one of the important causes of water pollution. It is a critical
parameter of the effluent present in the textile industry. Use of common salt and
glauber salt etc. in textile processing increases the amount of total dissolved solids
(TDS). Disposal of high amount of TDS can lead to increase of TDS in ground and
surface water. It is also harmful for agricultural purpose.
Toxic Metals:
Waste water of textiles is not free from metal contents. There are mainly two sources
of metals. Firstly, the metals may come as impurity with the chemicals used during
processing such as caustic soda, sodium carbonate and salts. For instance, caustic soda
may contain mercury if produced using mercury cell processes. Secondly, the source
of metal could be dye stuffs like metalized mordent dyes. The metal complex dyes are
mostly based on chromium.
Residual Chlorine:
The use of chlorine compounds in textile processing, residual chlorine is found in the
waste stream. The waste water (if disposed without treatment) depletes dissolved
oxygen in the receiving water body and as such aquatic life gets affected. Residual
chlorine may also react with other compounds in the waste water stream to form toxic
substances.
Other Effluents:
Textile effluents are often contaminated with non-biodegradable organics termed as
refractory materials. Detergents are typical example of such materials. The presence
of these chemicals results in high chemical oxygen demand (COD) value of the
effluent. Organic pollutants, which originate from organic compounds of dye stuffs,
acids, sizing materials, enzymes, tallow etc. are also found in textile effluent, such
impurities are reflected in the analysis of bio-chemical oxygen demand (BOD) and
COD. These pollutants are controlled by use of biological treatment processes. In
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many textile units, particularly engaged in synthetic processing, low BOD/COD ratio
of effluent is observed which makes even biological treatment not a ready proposition.
The waste water of cotton based textile units is usually alkaline, whereas synthetic and
woolen fabric processing generates acidic effluent.
16.4 Flow Description:
The Effluent Treatment Plant of PURBANI has capacity of 1200 m3/day. Treatment
processes are maintained by three steps which are given below:
a) Physical/ Mechanical step:
Screen Chamber.
Equalization/ Homogenous process.
Clarifying process (2 times).
Intermediate period.
Filter press.
b) Chemical treatment step:
Ozonation by Ozonator (2 times).
Flocculation/ Coagulant process (Z times).
Neutralization process.
c) Biological treatment step:
Sequencing Batch Reactor (SBR).
16.5 Process Details:
Screen Chamber:
There are two types of screen chambers for screening system and removing the
floating dust particles from the wastewater.
1. Manual bar screen.
2. Mechanical screen.
Equalization or Homogenous System:
All the effluents reach the equalization tank to make it equal or homogenous by
providing air from air blower through coarse type diffuser. Effluents can retain here
for about 20-22 hours.
Ozonation System:
Ozone is re-circulated along with the effluents for all 24 hours to get the excellent
output by removing micro color and add more dissolved oxygen as well as kill
anaerobic bacteria which will come along with raw effluent. Ozone gas is
continuously produced in the Ozonator machine.
Ozone Generator:
Oxygen concentrator collects pure dry oxygen by purging nitrogen from air and sent
pure oxygen to the Ozonator. In the Ozonator ozone generation is done by creating
high voltage of 8000 volts.
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Flocculation System:
Coagulant-Flocculants are used for dosing into the Flocculation tank in order to
remove the color bond. For example:
Lime,
Ferrous Sulphate,
Polymer, etc.
During dosing the reactions which take place in the Flocculation tank is discussed in
the following:
As only ferrous sulphate cannot be used as a precipitant so lime is also added at the
same time to a proper precipitate. When ferrous sulphate is added to the waste water
the following reaction occurs:
FeSO4.7H20 + Ca (HCO3)2 — Fe (HCO3)2 + CaSO4 + 71-120. After adding Lime,
Fe (HCO3)2 +2 Ca (OH) 2 = Fe (OH) 2 +2 CaCO3 +2 H20.
The ferrous hydroxide can be oxidized and convert to ferric hydroxide, the desired
final form caused by dissolving oxygen into the wastewater. The reaction follows the
following procedure:
Fe (OH) 2 ± 1/4 02 ± 1/2 F120 = Fe (OH) 3.
The insoluble ferric hydroxide is formed as a bulky, gelatinous floc.
Inclined Plate Clarifier (IPC)/ Clarifying System:
Contains both solid and liquid parts and is achieved by breaking color and separating
color bonds.
Neutralization System:
Raw effluent pH is 9.5-11, so it is neutralized by dosing Hydrochloric Acid (HC1).
Ideal pH for maintaining the Biological process should range within 6.5-8.5.
Sequencing Batch Reactor (SBR)/ Biological System:
This is the biological treatment process where live micro-organisms are nourished.
Bacteria are populated in microbial process. These micro-organisms eat those
effluents and the remaining color and also remove Biological Oxygen Demand (BOD)
and Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD). ETP plant is continuously operated for 24
hours to ensure that the bacteria are provided with sufficient food (i.e. waste water)
and oxygen to keep them alive. Like other living creatures micro-organisms need a
balance diet with source of carbon, nitrogen, phosphorous and sulfur. As from textile
wastes have carbon and sulfur (sulphate), so lacking compound nitrogen and
phosphorous are adding from outside of urea and di-ammonium phosphate.
This SBR digester is maintained through batch wise system. The Sequencing Batch
Reactor consists of three chambers and at least 4 batches are maintained per chamber.
In the factory, the Mix Liquor Suspended Solids (MLSS) of micro-organism level is
checked in regular basis by In-hof-man cone.
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Intermediate Tank:
This is the buffer zone where treated clear water is preserved before final discharge.
Filter Press & Sludge Disposal:
The sludge generated by effluent treatment needs to be further processed of safely. It
is the byproduct of the effluent treatment process, produced in the form of solid waste.
In fact the production of sludge is a good indicator as to out whether the ETP is
running continuously or not. Sludge can be generated at different stages of treatment,
including screening, primary settling, chemical precipitation but most will come from
the physiochemical stage of treatment. The sludge collected from different stages has
different characteristics and compositions. Despite the differences in the nature of the
sludge from each process stage, all the sludge is usually combined and handled
together.
16.6 Characteristics of waste water of PFL assumed as follows:
pH = 9-11.5
BOD = 300 mg/L
COD=200 mg/L
Suspended solid (SS) = 200 mg/L
Color = dark
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16.7 Flow process of ETP:
Inlet Water
Screening
Lifting Station
Homogenizing Tank Blower
Neutralization Tank Acid
Distributor Antifoam
O2
Oxidation Tank Blower
Sludge Recycling Sedimentator
Poly O2
Thickener Post Oxygenation Blower
Poly
Filterpress Lifting Station
Sludge Discharge
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16.8 Department of Environment, Government of Bangladesh required:
PH = 6-9
BOD = 50 mg/L
COD= 200 mg/L
Suspended solid = 150 mg/L
Color = Light brownish.
16.9 Final treated Quality of PFL discharge is:
PH = 7-8
BOD = 30 mg/ L
COD = 160 mg / L
Suspended solid = 30 mg/L
Color = color less.
Ferrous sulphate tank
Photo: New ETP plant under construction.(Capacity2400m³).
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Water Treatment Plant
16.2 Water Treatment Plant:
The water treatment plant is a vital part of the dyeing section where the supply
water of the dyeing floor is treated and cured for proper dyeing. The supply
water contains various soluble effluents like dissolved solids, metal compounds
and other impurities which can lead to any sort of fabric fault during dyeing the
knitted fabrics. The process sequence of the water treatment plant in Divine
Textile Limited textile mill is briefly discussed below:
16.2.1Deep Pump:
The Deep pump is used for extracting water from raw water tank to pass in the
dyeing section for the process of fabric dyeing.
16.2.2 Raw Water Tank:
Raw water tank is placed 20 feet deep tank where the water needed in the
dyeing and finishing process is deposited and by the water pump the water in
the tank is extracted.
16.2.3 Air Receiver Tank:
Air receiver tank is used for the passage of air from the boiler to the Iron
exchanger tank.
16.2.4 Vessel:
The vessel is where the water from the WTP pump is collected.
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16.2.5Iron Exchanger Tank:
The metals contained in the water are removed or broken down by applying air
from the received from the air receiver tank.
16.2.6 Multi Grade Filter:
The multi grade filter is used for removing the residual iron contained in the
treated water.
16.2.7 Activated Carbon Filter:
The activated carbon filter is used for removing the remaining metals and other
impurities by passing the water flow through rocks of different sizes arranged in
different layers of the tank. At first there is a layer of small rocks and next is a
layer of medium rocks and finally comes a layer of big rocks. The tank contains
a carbon layer in middle.
16.2.8 Softener Tank:
The softener tanks contains resin and in the softening tank water softening
chemicals are applied for reducing the hardness of the water and making the
water flow suitable for fabric dyeing.
16.2.9 Soft Water Reserve Tank:
The processed soft water is reserved in the soft water reserve tank.
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16.2.10 Flow chart of water treatment plant:
Deep pump water supply
Raw water Tank
WTP Pump
Air Receiver Tank
Vessel
Iron Remover Tank
Multi-grade Filter
Activated Carbon Filter
Softener Tank or Filter
Soft water reserve Tank
Booster Pump
Dye House
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CONCLUSION
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PURBANIFABRICS LTD. is a well-planned versatile project. The administrations,
management, chain of command – all are well organized. They are devoted to satisfy
the customer by their activities. However, some of the point we want to mention for
the good of PURBANI FABRICS LTD.
17.1 Some Suggestions:
During the transport of the fabric in the dyeing floor and also during the
loading of the M/C, fabrics are soiled for the contact with floor. This makes the
fabric / part of the fabric dirty. It may require more scouring/bleaching agent or
may create stain making it faulty.
The dyeing floor is water most of the time: it should be cleaned all the time.
The illumination of the dyeing shade should be enhanced. It may exert the
worker fatigue ness
More skilled labor should be used in a project as PURBANI FABRICS LTD.
Many times the dosing pipelines are clogged due to the careless dosing of
chemicals.
The M/C stoppage time should be analyzed and minimized. The maintenance
should be carried out when the M/C is out of action.
17.2 Limitation of the Report:
Because of secrecy act the data on costing and marketing activities has not
been supplied & hence this report excludes these chapters.
Some of the points in different chapter are not described as these were not
available.
The whole process is not possible to bind in such a small frame as this report,
hence our effort spent on summarizing them.
We had a very limited time in spite of our willing to study more details it was
not possible to do so.
17.3 Lastly:
At last I again give thanks to almighty ALLAH for successfully completed my
industrial attachment. Actually, PURBANI is a 100% export oriented knit composite
industry. During the training period, I have completed our industrial attachment to a
systematic routine which was provided by PURBANI FABRICS LTD.
PURBANI FABRICS LTD. is a well-planned versatile project. The administrations,
management, chain of command- all are well organized. They are devoted to satisfy
the customer by their activities. However, some of the point we want to mention for
the good of PURBANI FABRICS LTD.
The specially of this report is that the information, data & description very much
subjective & practical. So, one can easily have an idea about the whole dyeing unit of
PURBANI FABRICS LTD. at a single look on it.
The factory runs by a number of efficient textile engineers, skilled technical and non-
technical persons. All the textile engineers and technical and non-technical persons are
very sincere, co-operative and helpful.
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I wish good luck of them and also for this factory.
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18. Reference:
Websites:
Purbanigroup.com/index.php
Purbanigroup.com/web
Books:
Garments and Textile Merchandising.
o By- M. A Razzaque
Garments & Technology.
o By- M.A Kashem
Industry:
Purbani Fabrics Ltd.
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